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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Literary New York, by Charles Hemstreet
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Literary New York
+       Its Landmarks and Associations
+
+
+Author: Charles Hemstreet
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 29, 2010  [eBook #31814]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Linda Cantoni, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 31814-h.htm or 31814-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h/31814-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+LITERARY NEW YORK
+
+Its Landmarks and Associations
+
+by
+
+CHARLES HEMSTREET
+
+With 65 Illustrations
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+G.P. Putnam's Sons
+New York and London
+The Knickerbocker Press
+1903
+
+Copyright, 1903
+by
+Charles Hemstreet
+
+Published, November, 1903
+
+The Knickerbocker Press, New York
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The "Half-Moon" on the Hudson--1609.
+
+From the painting by L.W. SEAVEY.]
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                  PAGE
+
+      I. WRITERS OF NEW AMSTERDAM                           1
+
+     II. BEFORE THE REVOLUTION                             25
+
+    III. THE POET OF THE REVOLUTION                        45
+
+     IV. IN THE DAYS OF THOMAS PAINE                       67
+
+      V. THE CITY THAT IRVING KNEW                         87
+
+     VI. WITH PAULDING, DRAKE, AND HALLECK                106
+
+    VII. COOPER AND HIS FRIENDS                           125
+
+   VIII. THOSE WHO GATHERED ABOUT POE                     145
+
+     IX. AT THE CLOSE OF THE KNICKERBOCKER DAYS           167
+
+      X. HALF A CENTURY AGO                               189
+
+     XI. TWO FAMOUS MEETING-PLACES                        209
+
+    XII. SOME OF THE WRITERS OF TO-DAY                    230
+
+
+
+
+Full-Page Illustrations
+
+
+                                                         PAGE
+
+THE "HALF MOON" ON THE HUDSON, 1609            _Frontispiece_
+    From the painting by L.W. Seavey.
+
+THE STADT HUYS                                              8
+
+BROAD STREET, 1642                                         30
+
+KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773                                 42
+
+THE DEBTORS' PRISON                                        48
+
+WILLIAM SMITH    }
+PETER STUYVESANT }
+PHILIP FRENEAU   }                                         60
+THOMAS PAINE     }
+JOEL BARLOW      }
+
+THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND
+  SPRUCE STREETS                                           70
+
+MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827             76
+
+JAMES KIRKE PAULDING }
+PHILIP HONE          }
+WASHINGTON IRVING    }                                    100
+JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE  }
+FITZ-GREENE HALLECK  }
+J. FENIMORE COOPER   }
+
+THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831                          136
+
+RICHARD HENRY STODDARD }
+JOHN JAMES AUDUBON     }
+WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT  }                                  150
+BAYARD TAYLOR          }
+EDGAR ALLAN POE        }
+ROBERT FULTON          }
+
+POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM                                  158
+    From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.
+    Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.
+
+THE BATTERY IN 1830                                       164
+    From a drawing by C. Burton.
+
+THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830                                  170
+
+VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET,
+  LOOKING TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800                       182
+
+W.D. HOWELLS        }
+J.G. HOLLAND        }
+RICHARD GRANT WHITE }                                     200
+BRANDER MATTHEWS    }
+WILLIAM WINTER      }
+    From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble;
+    courtesy of W.E. Benjamin.
+
+
+
+
+Illustrations in the Text
+
+
+                                                        PAGE
+
+SEAL OF NEW AMSTERDAM                                      1
+
+EARLY DUTCH HOUSES                                         2
+
+THE WALL AND GATE                                          5
+
+AN OLD FAMILY BIBLE                                        6
+
+STUYVESANT'S "WHITEHALL"                                   8
+
+ALONG THE STRAND                                           9
+
+DE SILLE'S HOUSE                                          14
+
+A WOMAN'S COSTUME, NEW AMSTERDAM                          16
+
+STUYVESANT'S BOUWERIE HOUSE                               20
+
+THE CHURCH IN THE FORT                                    21
+
+CAPTAIN KIDD'S HOUSE                                      23
+
+THE CHURCH CALLED TRINITY                                 34
+
+"THE NEW-YORK GAZETTE"                                    39
+
+THE COLLECT                                               48
+
+THE BRITISH PRISON-SHIP                                   53
+
+THE MIDDLE DUTCH CHURCH                                   55
+
+FRAUNCES' TAVERN                                          62
+
+BROAD STREET AND FEDERAL HALL                             63
+
+RICHMOND HILL                                             64
+
+THE CORNER STONE OF THE PARK THEATRE                      69
+
+THE POST OFFICE, WILLIAM STREET                           78
+
+GOLDEN HILL INN                                           88
+
+ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL, BEEKMAN ST.                          89
+
+THE CITY HOTEL                                           101
+
+THE HOUSE OF ASTOR, WHERE IRVING WROTE "ASTORIA"         102
+
+WHERE IRVING LIVED, 17TH STREET AND IRVING PLACE         104
+
+THE SHAKESPEARE TAVERN                                   120
+
+THE JUMEL MANSION                                        123
+
+WASHINGTON HALL                                          132
+
+ON BLOOMINGDALE ROAD, NEAR 75TH STREET, IN POE'S TIME    147
+
+THE HOUSE IN CARMINE STREET                              149
+
+WHERE POE WROTE "THE RAVEN"                              157
+
+MUSEUM AT THE NORTH END OF THE PARK, 1825                170
+
+NIBLO'S GARDEN                                           171
+
+AUDUBON'S HOME, 156TH STREET AND NORTH RIVER             193
+
+CLEMENT C. MOORE'S HOUSE, CHELSEA                        196
+
+THE UNIVERSITY BUILDING                                  219
+
+THE STUDIO BUILDING IN WEST 10TH STREET                  221
+
+53 EAST 20TH STREET                                      223
+
+10 WEST STREET                                           232
+
+WHERE "HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES" WAS WRITTEN             237
+
+146 MACDOUGAL STREET                                     239
+
+108 WAVERLY PLACE                                        240
+
+RICHARD GRANT WHITE'S HOME                               241
+
+WHERE RICHARD HENRY STODDARD DIED                        243
+
+WHERE THE AUTHORS' CLUB WAS ORGANIZED                    244
+
+HORACE GREELEY'S HOME                                    245
+
+THE BEEKMAN MANSION                                      249
+
+LAWRENCE HUTTON'S HOUSE                                  252
+
+DE KAY'S HOUSE, LONDON TERRACE                           254
+
+
+
+
+Literary New York
+
+
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+Writers of New Amsterdam
+
+
+[Illustration: Seal of New Amsterdam]
+
+There is a fashion nowadays of trimming the fronts of brick houses by
+placing black bricks among the red in such a way as to form odd and
+unique designs. It is an attractive way of doing, for it varies the
+staid simplicity of the solid color. But for all it may seem original
+and new, it is a style that had its beginning long, long ago, even in
+the days when the stern Peter Stuyvesant governed with an iron hand
+over the Dutch colony of fifteen hundred people, the town that was one
+day to be New York, but which in his time was called New Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration: Early Dutch Houses]
+
+It was a tiny town then; picturesque, too, for the houses were low,
+irregular, with sloping roofs and gable ends to the street. They were
+built of wood--that is, all except the church, the Stadt Huys, the
+Governor's house, and some few dwellings of colonists who had brought
+much wealth with them from Holland. These were for the most part of
+stone. It was usual in them all--there were scarcely more than a
+hundred,--whether of wood or stone, to have chimneys outside the
+walls, thus making less the danger of fire, and if any part of the
+house were of brick it was sure to be the chimney. All the brick had
+then to be brought from Holland, so it was an expensive building
+material and but sparingly used.
+
+At this time when Stuyvesant held full sway there were two industrious
+colonists who held the idea that their short-cut to immense wealth lay
+in the way of making bricks at home and supplying them to their fellow
+colonists. So it came about, after long and slow deliberation, that
+the first brickyard was started. To be sure the venturesome
+fortune-hunters soon found that they were not to succeed all at once,
+for, owing to their lack of knowledge, they ruined so many of their
+bricks that the profits of the business were like to be consumed in
+the black-burned material that they threw aside as worthless.
+
+But just at this time an odd thing happened. This was no less than
+the appearance of a colonist who agreed to buy--at a low price to be
+sure, but still to buy--all the black-burned and apparently useless
+brick. The brickmakers wondered very much at this, and without doubt
+thought the man a trifle unsound in his mind, but they agreed, and
+very soon the buyer had built himself a house, which when it was
+completed showed the burnt brick alternating with the red, prettily
+decorating the front and making of it the most attractive dwelling in
+the town. And at this they were filled with admiration and respect.
+All the townspeople went to look at the house, and while looking
+marvelled that Jacob Steendam could have thought out such a useful
+plan, for he was not known as a practical man. Anything but that, for
+was he not a poet? More than this, was he not the only poet in the
+colony? And still more than this, he was the first poet of New
+Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration: The Wall and Gate]
+
+And in other ways, too, this first literary man of the colony was no
+ordinary man. He had come to New Amsterdam in the employ of the owners
+of the colony, the Dutch West India Company, and he worked in the
+Company's warehouse. But he had a mind which fixed itself on things
+above the beaver skins which it was his task to register before they
+were sent across the sea. He was clerk by day, poet by night. It was
+his custom while the townspeople slept, and they were early abed, to
+wander about in the moonlight. He could walk the length and breadth of
+the town with no great exertion, for it merely tipped the triangular
+point of the island of Manhattan, enclosed on two sides by rivers and
+on the land side by a wall of wood and soil which served to keep the
+Indians out--a wall stretching straight across the island quite from
+river to river, following the line that Wall Street was to take later
+when Indians should be no more and when the town itself should have
+burst its bounds. Here then the poet walked through the narrow
+streets--winding ways that had their birth as Indian trails, passed
+their infancy as cow-paths, and had so wound around marshy tracts and
+deviated from their course that as streets they must of necessity be
+irregular and vacillating.
+
+[Illustration: An Old Family Bible]
+
+While this was a time of advancement for the little colony, as you may
+have guessed from the brickmaking venture, yet it was certainly not a
+literary period. The colonists who had left their homes in Holland to
+seek their fortunes in a new world had found that Fortune overseas
+frowned upon them as often as she smiled, and while she had raised the
+hopes of some, the many were struggling for bare existence. There was
+no book-making; indeed there were few books of any sort, and reading
+meant conning over Bibles, prayer-books, psalm-books, and Testaments
+which had been brought across the ocean. These were stoutly bound
+volumes, many of them heirlooms, their pages bearing the marks of
+patient and persistent handling.
+
+[Illustration: Stuyvesant's "Whitehall"]
+
+The poet Steendam dreamed and thought out many a verse as he stood on
+the bridge that spanned the canal leading from the bay to the Sheep
+Pasture,--the canal that was one day to be buried deep beneath Broad
+Street. He must have walked beneath the wall of the weak little fort
+at the water's edge, passed Governor Stuyvesant's new home that was
+called Whitehall, and that was to pass away, leaving its name to the
+road leading to it, which the road was still to bear more than two
+hundred and fifty years later. And perhaps he went on along the strand
+to the Stadt Huys (for it was only a few steps farther along the
+waterside), the stone house that "William the Testy" had built as a
+tavern and that in the first poet's day had become the first City Hall
+of New Amsterdam. And he sometimes stood beside the first graveyard,
+near the plaine that was to become the Bowling Green, and so on to
+the city wall, with its gates locked while the townsmen slept.
+
+[Illustration: THE STADT HUYS.]
+
+[Illustration: Along the Strand]
+
+Though the streets are to-day much changed from those which the poet
+walked alone save for the company of his Muse, you can walk them even
+now, until you come to a thoroughfare noticeable because it is so
+short and winding, tucked away at the edge of the city's business
+section. And if you do walk into Stone Street, you must of necessity
+come to a bend from which both ends of the street curve out of sight,
+while you stand in a kind of huge well, closed in by iron-shuttered
+warehouses. Here in this bend you are standing on what was the garden
+of Jacob Steendam's checker-fronted house. In his day it was Hoogh
+Street, though in a few years it was to take its present name when it
+was the first street to be paved with stone.
+
+In those nightly walks through the quiet streets of the sleeping town,
+the poet Steendam found inspiration for his verses--the first verses
+ever penned in the colony, and called variously _The Praise of New
+Netherland_, _The Complaint of New Amsterdam_, _The Thistle Finch_,
+and others. Although these suggested true affection for the land of
+his adoption, it was the home of his youth and the never-fading
+remembrance of his childhood's days that haunted him and called to
+him. And at last, one day after thirteen years, the sight of a ship
+preparing to sail for Holland so overcame him that almost within the
+hour he had bidden farewell and had sailed with her, leaving to the
+townspeople his memory and his verse.
+
+But by the time of his going there had come forward another poet to
+take his place, by name Nicasius De Sille. There was a vast difference
+between the first poet and the second. Steendam was a poor man, and in
+his verses sought always to touch those who had never grasped the
+skirts of fleeting Fortune. The second was a man of wealth, a kind of
+"society poet." For even in that small circle, in the first
+half-century of its existence, there were marked differences in
+wealth, birth, and reputation, which were to develop with the passing
+years into the distinctions of to-day.
+
+The aristocracy of those times centred about the family of the Dutch
+Governor, Peter Stuyvesant. Mrs. Stuyvesant had been, before her
+marriage, Judith Bayard, the daughter of a Paris divine. Mrs. Bayard,
+the sister of Peter Stuyvesant, had married Mrs. Stuyvesant's brother,
+and when left a widow with three infant sons she followed her brother
+when he became Governor of New Netherland. These two women had lived
+in ease and refinement, and in coming to the colony well knew that
+there they would find a life of comparative hardship. Yet they came
+willingly enough, following husband and brother, and brought with them
+an atmosphere of intellectual and social culture that left its impress
+for all time. By the time Steendam returned to his boyhood home, a few
+ambitious folk had gathered themselves about the Stuyvesants. There
+was Oloff Van Cortlandt, a thriving merchant and one of the richest
+men in New Netherland; there were Hendrick Kip and his three sons;
+there were Dr. La Montagne and his daughters, and Govert Loockermans,
+and others.
+
+It was to this well-to-do-set that Nicasius De Sille belonged, and
+after the going of Steendam he became the only literary man in the
+colony. He also had come over in the service of the Dutch West India
+Company, but in a far different capacity from Steendam. For he came,
+when Stuyvesant's rule had run eight years of its course, as a
+Councillor in the provincial government, and his life was thenceforth
+closely connected with that of the Governor. He came, heralded as a
+statesman, as a lawyer, as a man of deep learning, as a man of wealth.
+But with not one word of his being a poet--yet only by reason of his
+poems has his name lived. He built for himself a house beside the
+little canal where Steendam walked in the night, just where now
+Exchange Street touches Broad, and here, with his two motherless
+daughters and one son, he lived more luxuriously than had yet been
+seen. For he had brought with him from Holland heavy plate of rich
+design, more plate than was in all the town beside; solid, carved
+furniture and rare hangings; and on winter nights his guests sat down
+to a table laden with blue and white china ornamented with strange
+Chinese pictures, and drank their tea, alternately biting lumps of
+sugar, from the tiniest china cups, and altogether were entertained
+with all the pomp and circumstance he had known in The Hague. At these
+evening entertainments De Sille read his poems in such perfect style
+as to win much applause, and doubtless it was the reading of these, as
+well as his courtly manner and great wealth, that very soon won for
+him the love of fair Tryntie Croegers.
+
+[Illustration: De Sille's House]
+
+And then one day there was a grand gathering in the stone church
+inside the fort--on the wedding-day of Nicasius De Sille and Mistress
+Tryntie Croegers. Into the church went the friends: women, some with
+petticoats of red cloth, some with skirts of blue or purple silk set
+off with rare lace, all with silken hoods over much befrizzled hair,
+and their fingers covered with glittering rings, and with great
+lockets of gold on their bosoms. Each had a Bible fastened to her
+girdle by links of gold--not the plain, strongly bound Bibles used by
+Jacob Steendam and his friends, but elaborately wrought in silver,
+with golden clasps. The men were just as gaily dressed as the women,
+for they wore long coats adorned with shining buttons and pockets
+trimmed with lace, and colored waistcoats, knee-breeches of velvet,
+silk stockings, and low shoes set off by silver buckles. Outside the
+fort among the townspeople of lower degree it was, too, quite a
+holiday. Men with coarse frocks and leather aprons, women in homespun
+gowns, turbaned negresses, swarthy negro slaves, dusky Indians,--all
+made merry in their several ways as though glad of an excuse. And the
+motley throng outside the fort and the elegant gathering within all
+made way for the wrinkled little bell-ringer, who carried the cushions
+from the Stadt Huys for the burgomasters and the schepens, who
+insisted on every bit of their dignity, come what would, on this day
+or on any other. So, with those inside the church looking on in
+silence and the people outside keeping up an incessant din and
+clatter, the poet of the rich was married to Tryntie Croegers by the
+good Dominie Megapolensis.
+
+[Illustration: A Woman's Costume
+
+New Amsterdam]
+
+But for all such a fair starting off this married life had an untimely
+ending. Though Nicasius De Sille might win a wife by his poetry, it
+seemed that he could not hold one. There were no poetic readings in
+the house by the canal after the marriage, and the literature of the
+town which had started out so bravely fell into a decline with the
+languishing of De Sille's connubial bliss. Before the third year had
+gone by, a commission of their friends was trying to tell the pair how
+happy their lives should have been. But all the reasoning had no
+effect, and the friends were forced to give it up and submit to a
+decision, in very quaint wording, the tenor of which was that it was
+acknowledged that there was no love between the two, and that the only
+recommendation that could be made was that the property should be
+divided equally and they go their several ways,--which they did. But
+the earlier readings of poetry had sown the seed of still another
+marriage. For at those readings, Anna, the youngest daughter of the
+poet, had sat by her father's side, and young Hendrick Kip had sat by
+his father's side, and about the time the commission of friends was
+announcing its failure to patch up matters, Anna De Sille and Hendrick
+Kip, all undismayed by the bad example, had decided to sit side by
+side through the remainder of their lives.
+
+[Illustration: Stuyvesant's Bouwerie House]
+
+All this time De Sille was growing more and more rich, when there
+came a great change. Of a sudden one day the English ship sailed into
+the bay, and the English soldiers took possession of the town, and the
+rule of the Dutch in New Amsterdam had passed, and the English became
+governors of their province of New York. Then Stuyvesant went to live
+in a little settlement he had built up and called Bouwerie Village,
+which was far out on the Bouwerie Road, and Nicasius De Sille settled
+down as a merchant, and little more was heard of him as a poet.
+
+It was a simple enough thing to rename the town and call it after the
+brother of an English king, but that made but little change in the
+customs of the people. For many a long year it was to remain the
+quaint, slow-going town it had been. Certainly no English brain or
+hand added to the literature of this time, and the only bit of writing
+which survives is the work of a Dutch minister.
+
+In the eighteenth year after the coming of the English, when it had
+come to be 1682, Dominie Henricus Selyns came to New York from
+Holland. He had lived four years in the town when it was New
+Amsterdam, and we have his own words for it that he found the
+settlement scarcely altered a whit from the time he left. And now he
+took charge of the little church in the fort, the same church where
+Nicasius De Sille was married with such pomp. His congregation was
+made up of much the same kind of people as of old, and perhaps it was
+just as well, since he still preached in the Dutch language. The poems
+he wrote, all in the Dutch language, were read as piously as were the
+Bibles, and were quite at one with them in religious feeling. No one
+then imagined that a day would come when a critic might hint that the
+good Dominie's contributions to the early literature of New York might
+be just a shade gloomy and despairing in their views of the
+fearfulness of the after-life.
+
+[Illustration: The Church in the Fort]
+
+For quite twenty years the good Dominie lived to aid in fostering the
+infant literature of infant New York, living a life as quiet and as
+regular as any Dutch colonist could have demanded. On a Sunday morning
+he preached in the church in the fort the long, heavy sermons that his
+people loved. In the afternoon he rode away on the highway that led
+into the country, past the Collect Pond, over the Kissing Bridge at
+the Fresh Water, on to the stretch that was to grow into the Bowery,
+through the forest till he came to the few clustering houses of the
+Bouwerie Village, where Stuyvesant had spent his old age. In the
+village church he preached of an afternoon,--the church which
+Stuyvesant had built and beside which he was buried,--the church which
+was to stand another hundred years and which was then to give way to a
+house of worship to be called St. Mark's, which, in turn, two
+centuries and more after Stuyvesant's day, was still to be found
+standing in the core of a great metropolis.
+
+[Illustration: Capt. Kidd's House]
+
+Dominie Selyns lived long enough to see many changes. He lived to see
+a Dutch prince become England's king; he lived to see New York rent
+asunder through the overzealousness of one Jacob Leisler, who feared
+lest the town should not recognize a king of Dutch blood; he lived to
+see Lord Bellomont made Governor and riding through the streets in a
+coach the gorgeousness of which astounded all; he lived to see
+Captain William Kidd sail out of the harbor in the ship _Adventure
+Galley_, with never a thought that a few years more would see him
+executed as a pirate. And when Dominie Selyns died, bequeathing his
+poems to swell the scanty literature of his times, the era of the
+Dutch had well-nigh ended.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+Before the Revolution
+
+
+When William Bradford came to New York, in 1693, the town had grown so
+large that it must needs have a night-watch--four men who each carried
+a lantern, and who, strolling through the quiet streets, proclaimed at
+the start of each hour that the weather was fair, or that the weather
+was foul, and told beside that all was as well as it should be in
+those nightly hours. More than this, the town went a step farther
+towards the making of a metropolis, and lit the streets by night
+(whether for the benefit of the night-watch or for some other the
+records say not), by placing on a pole projecting from each seventh
+house a lantern with a candle in it.
+
+Pilgrims who year after year seek out the shrines that are connected
+in one way or another with the literature of the city have worn a path
+plain to be seen along the stone pavement about Trinity Church, a path
+leading straight to a bit of greensward where, beside a gravel walk,
+is the tomb of William Bradford. Although Bradford made slight
+pretence of being a man of letters, he is remembered as one who loved
+to foster literature. And, there being little enough left to recall
+the writings of the seventeenth century, this tombstone has its many
+visitors. The pilgrims who find their way to it have but half
+completed their journey. If they leave the churchyard and stray on,
+not going by way of crowded Wall Street, which would be the direct
+course, but taking one of the more winding and narrow streets to the
+south, they will come after a time to a thoroughfare where the
+structure of the Elevated Road forms a bridge to convey heavy trains
+that hurry past, stirring the air with constant vibration. In this
+street, dark even when the sun shines brightest, is another reminder
+of William Bradford,--a tablet in form, but quite as much a tombstone
+as the other; for its brazen letters tell in true epitaph how he lived
+here two hundred years gone by, and how here on this spot he set up
+the first printing-press in the colony, and that here he did the
+public printing, as well as such books and psalms, tracts and
+almanacs, and such like things as he had time for. These were all
+queer, rough-lettered, black-lined pamphlets, and none was more quaint
+than John Clapp's _Almanac_, the first which came from the press and
+the first written in the city.
+
+John Clapp had time without end to write this almanac, and yet no one
+ever knew just when he did it. He was the keeper of the inn in the
+Bouwerie Village, and, having more idle moments than busy ones, he
+spent most of his time on the broad stoop of the inn, pipe in mouth,
+looking first at the house where Peter Stuyvesant had lived, then at
+the dusty road leading away up country towards the King's Bridge in
+one direction, and down country towards the town. But write it he did,
+and Bradford printed it, and John Clapp was shrewd enough to advertise
+himself well by writing in his Table of Contents concerning his
+tavern:
+
+     It is two miles from the city, and is generally the baiting
+     place where gentlemen take leave of their friends, and where
+     a parting glass or two of generous wine
+
+          If well applied makes dull horses feel
+          One spur in the head is worth two in the heel.
+
+Again, in a Chronological Table, under the June date, he made the
+interesting announcement:
+
+     The 24th of this month is celebrated the feast of St. John
+     the Baptist, in commemoration of which (and to keep up a
+     happy union and lasting friendship by the sweet harmony of
+     good society) a feast is held by the _Johns_ of this city,
+     at John Clapp's in the Bouwerie, where any gentleman whose
+     name is John may find a hearty welcome to join in concert
+     with his namesakes.
+
+In response to this there came such a large gathering as would make it
+seem that all the townsmen had been baptized by one name.
+
+It was by an odd slip that the only important book planned and partly
+written in these last years of the seventeenth century was not printed
+by Bradford. More than once had the Episcopal minister, the Rev. John
+Miller, talked with this first printer of his plan for a history of
+the colony which he was then writing. This would have been carried
+out, beyond all doubt, if the clergyman had not just then decided to
+go to England to settle some troublesome Church matters, taking his
+history with him. As ill-fortune would have it, the ship in which he
+sailed was captured by the French,--France then being at war with
+England,--and rather than have the slightest bit of information
+conveyed to the enemy through his means, the clergyman tossed the
+precious pages into the sea. In the course of time, released by the
+French, he reached England, and there rewrote the history from memory,
+and drew for it a quaint map of the town as he had known it. Having
+done so much he died, leaving his work to lie for more than a century
+and a quarter unpublished, until, in 1843, a London bookseller put it
+into print. The original, being sold again passed through several
+hands until it finally found a resting-place in the British Museum,
+where it is now preserved.
+
+[Illustration: BROAD STREET, 1642.]
+
+The early days of the eighteenth century saw the fitting out of the
+first library to which the townsmen had general access--a library that
+in the next fifty years was to change from the private property of the
+Rev. John Sharpe into the Corporation Library, and later be chartered
+as the Society Library, under which title it was to live to grow
+richer and richer in literary treasures until it came to be called the
+oldest library in America in the days when the city had grown far
+beyond any bounds then thought of. In the first days of its existence,
+the library occupied tiny quarters, quite large enough for all the
+books it contained, in a room in the City Hall. This was not in the
+old Stadt Huys of the Dutch by the waterside, for that was gone now,
+but in a pretentious building facing the "broad street" that had been
+made by the filling up of the Heere Graft of old. Other buildings
+were set up at this same time. There was the new French Huguenot
+church which had been in Petticoat Lane and was now rebuilt in the
+newly laid-out street below the Maiden's Lane, called Pine Street from
+the pine-trees there. Then there was the church called Trinity. Though
+it, too, was a new church, the ground on which it stood had a history
+that harked back to the very earliest Dutch times. For it was upon the
+lower edge of the Annetje Jans Farm, the strip of land above the city
+to the west which had been given to the husband of Annetje Jans far
+back in the year 1635; that had been linked with another farm by
+Governor Lovelace to make the Duke's Farm; and had become the King's
+Farm when the duke after whom it was named became a king. And then, it
+having become the Queen's Farm (and Queen Anne graciously presenting
+it in the year 1703 to Trinity Church for all time), it took the last
+name that it was to have and became the Church Farm--a name that was
+to cling to it after every vestige of country green had disappeared
+from its surface, and when houses had been set upon it as thick as the
+stalks of grain that once ripened upon its rolling bosom.
+
+[Illustration: "The Church called Trinity"]
+
+The library in the City Hall was yet quite a new thing, the church
+called Trinity had stood on the historic ground but a few years, the
+French church was barely completed, and the town was so sprightly and
+full of activity that 't is small wonder Madame Sarah Knight, coming
+at such a time, should find much to wonder at and to write about. Her
+coming marks another advance in literary New York, for Madame Knight
+was a bookish woman come from far-off Boston town, and was a teacher
+well versed in the "art of composition." She found all quite different
+as compared with her own Massachusetts, where her father had been
+sentenced to stand for two hours in the stocks, his conduct having
+been found "lewd and unseemly" when, on a Sabbath day, after an
+absence of three years, he had kissed his wife when she met him at his
+own door-step! No wonder Madame Knight thought New York society quite
+gay and reckless, for at this time Lord Cornbury governed, and he had
+an odd fancy for wearing women's clothing indoors for his own
+delectation and to the amusement of the citizens as he walked the
+walls of the fort. Though Madame Knight met many persons of quality
+and witnessed many interesting scenes, had her visit in the city been
+extended, say for half a dozen years, until the coming of Governor
+Robert Hunter, she would have met a man truly in full accord with her
+ideas and tastes.
+
+Had Governor Hunter's hopes been fulfilled there might have been a far
+different writing of literary history. He came from England in the
+summer of 1710, from the midst of a busy and troublous life, seeing
+before him in imagination quiet and peaceful years with the wife he
+cherished, and a career which should be helped on by his
+correspondence with his English friends, Dean Swift, Richard Steele,
+Joseph Addison, and some others. It would be an ideal life; he had
+planned it well. But the repose he sought he scarce for an hour
+realized. Undreamed-of turmoil kept him in a whirl of unsettledness.
+And though the wife of his heart stood by his side, and he gained
+comfort from knowing that nothing could turn her away, differences
+with the Government at home, which refused to reimburse him for money
+spent; wrangling with the Assembly, which refused money for the
+conduct of affairs in the colony; the uprising of negro slaves; the
+turbulent actions of unfriendly Indians--these things and others left
+him never an hour for the work he had planned. It was a note of
+despair that he sounded when he wrote to Swift across the sea:
+
+     This is the finest air to live upon in the universe, and if
+     our trees and birds could speak and our Assemblymen be
+     silent, the finest conversation also. The soil bears all
+     things, but not for me.... In a word, and to be serious, I
+     have spent my time here in such torment and vexation that
+     nothing hereafter in life can ever make amends for it.
+
+Still, for all this, he found time for some writing, especially for a
+play, the one called _Androborus_--The Man-eater,--in which he wrote
+in such a bantering, humorous, satirical manner of the colonial
+officers as to set the town going with laughter. From this on he got
+along better and the people came to appreciate their Governor.
+Gradually there centred about the house in the fort a "Court Circle,"
+where the Lady Hunter shone brightly, not alone because she was the
+first lady of the province, nor because her husband was Governor and a
+writer, but because others came to know her as a loving, lovely, and
+lovable woman. But when it looked as though the Governor was to have
+at last the ease and rest and quiet he had hoped for from the
+beginning, Lady Hunter died! This was the worst that could happen to
+Robert Hunter. There was nothing more for him to live and struggle
+for, he said. He resigned his office and, before many years, his life.
+
+At this time of the "Court Circle," a mild, quiet man, the son of a
+Presbyterian minister, came from Philadelphia to visit the Governor.
+And no one could foresee that this Cadwallader Colden would remain
+during the rest of his life and be, for almost half a century, the
+leader of literary New York.
+
+Colden came to be a friend of William Bradford, as he had been of
+Hunter, and watched his work with deep interest. He often advised
+Bradford when that first printer of New York published the _New York
+Gazette_, in 1725, the first newspaper in the city, and upheld him a
+few years later when the second newspaper was issued by Bradford's old
+apprentice boy, Peter Zenger, who had become his rival.
+
+In the first ten years that Colden lived in New York he wrote
+diligently, and published his _History of the Five Nations_, an
+exhaustive work telling of the powerful Indian tribes, of their forms
+of government, and their wars. This was one of the earliest books of
+importance, and he was planning a second part of this same history
+when, in the year 1732, Cosby came to be Governor. In after years
+Colden told how his studies and his writings were interrupted by the
+coming of the new and lively Governor.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+Numb. 425
+
+THE
+
+New-York Gazette,
+
+From _December_ 10, to Monday, _December_ 17, 1733.]
+
+And now it seemed as though there were to be dissensions in the city.
+There was trouble with the Governor; trouble with Peter Zenger, who
+wished to print what the king's representatives did not want printed;
+trouble about who should be Chief Justice. But when these were
+straightened out there began a season of festivity, and during one
+entire winter there were entertainments at which the culture, the
+refinement, and the wit of the province gathered. These were days of
+splendor, when women wore gay brocades and arranged their hair in a
+variety of bewildering, towering, and fantastic shapes; when wide
+skirts were in the heyday of their fashion; when tight-lacing was in
+vogue; when men wore enormous wigs, and attired themselves in many
+colors, adorning themselves with buttons of silver--large, and
+decorated with the initials of the wearer.
+
+In the height of this brilliant season there came from England, to
+visit the Governor's family, Lord Augustus Fitzroy, son of that Duke
+of Grafton who was Chamberlain to King George II. He was received with
+all the ceremony due to his rank. The Mayor, the Recorder, and some
+other city officials met, and presented to him the freedom of the city
+in a box of burnished gold. Soon Lord Augustus had made himself so
+vastly agreeable to one of the daughters of Governor Cosby that there
+was talk of a marriage. But everybody agreed that this could not be,
+for the match was beneath him, according to the ideas of English
+society. Still, the young man was determined, the young woman was
+inclined, and the Governor's wife was a strategist. So one mild
+summer's night the young nobleman, resplendent in gay clothes, with a
+couple of his friends, assisted Dominie Campbell over the fort wall,
+where they found the young woman waiting, and there in the silence and
+the darkness the marriage occurred. There was some stern talk of what
+ought to be done to Dominie Campbell, and wonderment as to what the
+Duke of Grafton would say, but nothing serious came of it, although
+the romantic wedding was the talk of the town for many a year.
+
+Cadwallader Colden lived down by the waterside near the fort wall over
+which Dominie Campbell was dragged. And in his house there, when
+Cosby's rule quieted down, Colden got to his studies again. He lived
+until the days of the Revolution were at hand; lived to exercise the
+duties of Governor in a stormy period; lived to see the town rent by
+turmoil and political rancor; lived to be hated by many people for
+loyalty to a king they would no longer serve. Quite to the end of
+his life he remained a leader, and, dying, left writings on history,
+medicine, geology, botany, metaphysics, and other learned subjects.
+
+[Illustration: KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773.]
+
+It was in this midway time between the days of Cosby and the period of
+the Revolution that William Smith lived and wrote. Not so marked a
+figure in literature as Colden, nor so profound a student; not one to
+leave so strong and lasting an imprint, but well to be remembered as a
+writer whose birthplace was New York. Born in the year after Colden
+published his _History of the Five Nations_, he attained a high place
+as a lawyer, giving his attention to the political and legal records.
+When still a young man he was one of those who spoke at the ceremony
+of the laying of the corner-stone of King's College--which was to be
+in existence a century and a half later as Columbia University. For
+many years he lived close by Colden and intercourse would have led to
+mutual good, but the two were not friendly after Smith wrote a history
+of the city and Colden criticised it.
+
+Although William Smith was one of the earliest writers to own New York
+as his birthplace, he would not join in a revolt against the king whom
+he had served all his life. So he accepted the post of Chief Justice
+of Canada, leaving others to become the writers of the Revolution.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+The Poet of the Revolution
+
+
+In the far down-town business section of New York, there is a street
+so short that you can walk its entire length in ten minutes or less
+time. It leads from the park where the City Hall is, straight to the
+river. Beginning at the tall buildings where the newspapers have their
+homes, it continues along between the warehouses of leather merchants
+and the solid stonework of the bridge that crosses from the Manhattan
+to the Brooklyn shore; leads to the open space at the top of Cherry
+Hill, then makes a steep descent as though about to plunge deep into
+the river. For much of its length it is a constant scene of noise and
+bustle and disorder--that is, in the daylight hours. At night, when
+it is silent and deserted, it suggests the time, far back in the year
+1678, when it was a country lane some distance from the city, a
+by-path leading from the house of Jacob Leisler to the river. It was
+Frankfort Lane then, Leisler calling it so as a reminder of the German
+town of his birth. Now it has become Frankfort Street. Leisler's
+garden was close upon the spot where the street touches the parkside,
+and here Leisler was executed in 1691, a martyr to the cause of
+constitutional liberty.
+
+The lane was beginning to assume the proportions of a street in the
+year 1752, when there lived in one of the dainty houses that fronted
+it the family of Pierre Freneau, the last of a long line of Huguenots.
+There were Freneaus who fought with the Huguenots at La Rochelle, and
+there were Freneaus still living in that ancient city when the
+revocation of the Edict of Nantes forced so many to strange lands. The
+Freneau family, refugees from their native land, prospered in America,
+and a son born in the Frankfort Street house in this year 1752 gave
+historic interest to the name. The boy was christened Philip, and came
+to be called the Poet of the Revolution.
+
+Philip Freneau struggled through babyhood in Frankfort Street, and
+just as he was able to walk was whisked away to a farm in New Jersey,
+where his father had built a house, calling it Mount Pleasant after
+the old homestead in La Rochelle.
+
+Quite within the throw of a stone of Frankfort Street, and in the very
+year of Philip Freneau's birth, was born Eliza Schuyler, who with the
+passing of years was to marry and bear the name of Eliza Bleecker and
+the title of the first poetess of New York.
+
+[Illustration: The Collect]
+
+In her childhood, the future poetess had a favorite walk over the bit
+of rolling ground to the south of Frankfort Street, the spot called
+Golden Hill, which a few years later was to be trampled by many
+soldiers, where the tall grass was to be reddened by the blood of
+patriots--the first blood shed in the Revolution. She strolled hand in
+hand with her father over the green Common, which was to become the
+City Hall Park. Sometimes, in the mid-summer, she was taken on
+excursions to the shores of a pleasant lake, called the Collect,
+quite a journey from the city. It was there that John Fitch's boat
+sailed years before Fulton's successful boat was launched into the
+Hudson. When the city outgrew its early bounds, the lake was drained
+and solid ground made, and the Tombs Prison rose in gloomy majesty
+where the deep waters had been.
+
+[Illustration: THE DEBTORS' PRISON.]
+
+Eliza Schuyler preserved a lively memory of playing about a little
+square frame building on the Common, and though she never spoke of it
+by name it was the first Poor House of the city. She wrote, too, of a
+certain day when she went to the Common with her father--he was an
+important man that day and served on a committee--to see laid the
+first stone of another building. It was only a Debtors' Prison, but it
+was looked upon as the most beautiful structure in the city for many a
+day. For it was in the main patterned after the temple of Diana of
+Ephesus. The townsmen of those early days admired the building, and
+would have grieved if they could have foreseen that the day would come
+when city officials would forget that the old prison had been copied
+from so perfect a model; would forget that it had been a military
+prison when the British held possession of the city; would forget that
+many a brave officer of the Continental Army and many a true patriot
+soldier had passed bitter days there, and dying had left memories of
+sentiment and poetry and historic interest hovering about the old
+place.
+
+Still, though it could not be foretold, the day did come when it was
+no longer a prison but had become the Hall of Records, when it was
+called an ugly and unsightly structure which obstructed the view of
+newer and taller ones--buildings that Tammany architects considered
+the perfection of beauty perhaps on account of their costliness. So it
+must be torn down.
+
+At the age between girlhood and womanhood, Eliza Schuyler left New
+York to live in the village of Tomhannock, and when news of her again
+reached her friends in the city she was the wife of John J. Bleecker.
+Only twice after that did she revisit the scenes of her early life,
+and it was not until her death that the writings of this first poetess
+of New York became well known and popular.
+
+The short and peaceful life of Eliza Bleecker was nearing an end
+before--his college days being over--Philip Freneau again trod the
+streets of New York. Already his tireless pen was at work, the pen
+that was to aid the cause of the Revolution. But when it looked to him
+as though his country would not be able to throw off the kingly yoke,
+he decided on a journey. He passed two years in the West Indies
+writing of the _Beauties of Santa Cruz_ and the _House of Night_. Then
+a longing for the home from which he received scant word came upon
+him. He started homeward, only to be lured from his course by the
+beauties of Bermuda, where he fell in love with the Governor's
+daughter, remembered in his verse as the "Fair Amanda." He was still
+writing, lolling his time away beneath tropical skies, when tardy news
+came that the colonies had declared themselves free. Swiftly he threw
+off the languor of repose, of love, of romance, and returned home.
+The charm of the sea life was on him then, so taking out letters of
+reprisal from the Continental Congress, Freneau the poet sailed over
+the sea, actively aiding his country's cause by capturing British
+merchantmen and sinking British ships for a year, until in 1780 he
+had a ship of his own built. But on her first voyage disaster befell
+her, and almost within sight of land the _Aurora_ was captured. When
+Philip Freneau next saw New York it was as a prisoner on the hulk
+_Scorpion_, as she lay anchored alongside another notorious
+prison-ship, the _Jersey_, close by the Battery shore.
+
+There never was such an energetic prisoner. Each moment was employed
+for his country, if not with his sword at least with his pen, which
+was quite as powerful a weapon.
+
+[Illustration: The British Prison-Ship]
+
+In those days of wretched misery and suffering, within view of the
+city by day, in the noisome ship's hold by night, Freneau thought out
+his best-remembered poem, _The British Prison-Ship_ and many another
+line which in the later days of the Revolution was to rouse American
+feeling; verse that was to be distributed to the American soldiers, to
+be read by them on the march and by the light of the camp-fires; lines
+that were to commemorate the victories and the heroism of the soldiers
+of the Revolution; lines ridiculing each separate act of the British.
+
+New York, in this time that the poet Freneau lay a prisoner, was not
+as it had been in his college days. The battle of Long Island had been
+fought, and Washington and his army had been driven from New York. And
+on the night of the British entry a great fire had started in the
+lower part of the city, swept away the house where Bradford's press
+had been, leaped across Broadway and laid Trinity Church a mass of
+ruins scattered over the churchyard where Freneau's father lay buried.
+
+The British soldiers were quartered in the public buildings; the
+British officers had taken possession of the houses deserted by
+wealthy patriots; the Middle Dutch Church, which had been the
+architectural pride of the city, had become a riding school for
+troopers.
+
+[Illustration: The Middle Dutch Church]
+
+There was a red-painted wooden building in John Street, a few feet
+from Broadway, the only theatre in the city. The actors had closed it,
+and fled at the coming of the British. But the house was open again
+now, and the British officers played at mimic war between the
+intervals of real battles.
+
+No one threw himself more heartily into these performances than Major
+John André, who was so soon to give up his life for his country. He
+even wrote some of the speeches used by the actors, and one of the
+poems he wrote for Rivington's _Gazetteer_ was printed while he was
+away on his last mission, conferring with Benedict Arnold on the banks
+of the Hudson.
+
+After the treason was discovered, Arnold sought a safe retreat within
+the British lines at New York, and lived for a time in a solid,
+picturesque little house by the Bowling Green. It stood on a grassy
+slope that stretched down to the water's edge a few boat lengths from
+where the _Scorpion_ lay with the poet prisoner on board.
+
+There was a picket fence, painted white, on one side of the green
+slope, and Sergeant John Champe once hid his men behind it to carry
+off Arnold when he should take his nightly walk by the waterside, an
+attempt that failed through Arnold's changing his quarters on the
+selfsame day.
+
+When the Revolution was over, Freneau was again in New York, which
+slowly recovered from the ravages of war. Hanover Square was a
+favorite haunt of his. He has left the record that he loved to linger
+in that open space, where might be seen a mingling of business and
+home life. Freneau liked it, for there books were printed and sold,
+and, too, it was the "Newspaper Row" of the town. This open space had
+been at first Van Brugh Street, taking its name from Johannes
+Pietersen Van Brugh, a wealthy Hollander whose home faced the square
+for close upon half a century. It bore his name until in 1714, when
+with the accession of George I. of Hanover it took the name of Hanover
+Square.
+
+In a house facing this square, Bradford printed the first newspaper,
+and though in Freneau's time it was still standing, a more stately
+building was to take its place and bear a tablet telling of the old
+one. It was here that the other early newspapers came into existence:
+Parker's _Weekly Post-Boy_, in 1742; Weyman's _New York Gazette_, in
+1759; Holt's _New York Journal_, in 1766. It was here, too, that was
+prominently displayed the "Sign of the Bible and Crown," before the
+house of Hugh Gaine. Freneau had flayed this man in his verse many a
+time.
+
+Gaine was an Irishman who published the _New York Mercury_, and
+changed his politics to whichever side was uppermost--Whig to-day,
+Tory to-morrow. He printed Freneau's satires against Great Britain as
+a Whig, and then as a Tory fell under the power of Freneau's pen, for
+Freneau hated inconstancy quite as much as he did Tory principles.
+
+Then there was close at hand the home of Rivington's _New York
+Gazetteer_. This Rivington, failing as a bookseller in London,
+planted his sign in Hanover Square and proudly proclaimed himself as
+the only London bookseller in America. He established his Tory
+newspaper, the _New York Gazetteer_, and had it wrecked by patriots,
+who threw the furniture out into Hanover Square and moulded the type
+into bullets. It was he who printed the poems of André; who after the
+war gave up a Tory paper and was strong for the cause of the new
+nation and was in consequence denounced by Freneau.
+
+Freneau smiled to see the signs of Gaine and Rivington changed to suit
+the views of the new republic and rivalling one another in their show
+of patriotism. Tempted into Gaine's bookstore by the display of
+volumes, he chanced upon a friend who called him by name. And old Hugh
+Gaine, turning slowly about at the sound of a name he knew so well,
+stared at the enemy he had never seen:
+
+"Is your name Freneau?" he asked. And the poet answered:
+
+"Yes, Philip Freneau."
+
+For just a moment the bookseller hesitated, then said:
+
+"I want to shake your hand; you have given me and my friend Rivington
+a lasting reputation."
+
+It was in one of these very bookstores that Freneau met Lindley Murray
+in the year after the peace was declared. From their first meeting the
+two were friends. Murray had accumulated a fortune as a salt merchant
+on Long Island during the British occupation. Strong patriot as
+Freneau was, he was attracted to the son at first through the memory
+of the parent, for it was Lindley Murray's mother, living on Murray
+Hill, who had saved Putnam's troops from being trapped by the British.
+The friendship of Freneau and Lindley Murray might have ripened,
+but that in the year after their meeting Murray went to England, where
+he was to devote himself, for his own amusement, to horticulture, in a
+pretty little garden beside his home near York, and where he wrote his
+famous grammar for a young ladies' school.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. WILLIAM SMITH.
+2. PETER STUYVESANT.
+3. PHILIP FRENEAU.
+4. THOMAS PAINE.
+5. JOEL BARLOW.]
+
+Even in the lifetime of Freneau, changes came to Hanover Square. For
+more than half a century it was the "Newspaper Row," then it gradually
+became the dry-goods district, then settled down to a general centre
+for wholesale houses. At one corner of the square lived for a time
+Jean Victor Moreau, the French General, after he had been banished for
+supposed participation in the plot of Cadoudal and Pichegru against
+the life of the First Consul.
+
+[Illustration: Fraunces' Tavern]
+
+In the years that followed the Revolution, Freneau spent much of his
+time in sea trips, but he was in the city again when George Washington
+took the oath of office as the first President of the United States at
+the Federal Hall in Wall Street; and was in the quaint St. Paul's
+Chapel, then quite a new structure, when Washington went there on the
+day of his inauguration. In the same year, Freneau lived for a time in
+Wall Street, close by the house where Alexander Hamilton lived, who in
+those days was a figure in literary New York by reason of his writing
+of the _Federalist_ papers. That was thirteen years before Hamilton
+occupied his country house, "The Grange," far up the island, which
+was to be still standing a hundred years later, when the city had
+crept up to and beyond it, and left it where One Hundred and
+Forty-first Street crosses Convent Avenue. Close by, in narrow Nassau
+Street, when Freneau lived in Wall, was the home of a man who had been
+his classmate in college. This was Aaron Burr. He, too, in a few
+years, was to leave the humble house in Nassau Street, to live in the
+Richmond Hill house, where the British Commissary Mortier had lived,
+and from which Burr walked forth on an eventful morning in 1804 to
+fight a mortal combat with Hamilton on the Jersey shore.
+
+[Illustration: Broad St. and Federal Hall]
+
+In 1791 Philip Freneau was in Philadelphia editing the _National
+Gazette_, the strongest political paper of his day, memorable for
+partisan abuse and for such bitter attacks on the administration that
+Washington alluded to its editor as "that rascal Freneau." The paper
+continued under Freneau until 1793, when he returned to New York for a
+time.
+
+[Illustration: Richmond Hill]
+
+In those days of 1793 there were three or four detached houses in
+Cedar Street close by Nassau. In the one nearest the corner, on any
+day of the week a man, slender and tall, with eyes that were keen and
+gray, with dress always in perfect taste, with broad-brimmed hat and
+queue, could be seen. He came from this house and walked over to
+Broadway, and his neighbors watched regularly for his going and his
+coming. He was Noah Webster, editor of _The Minerva_, a paper at that
+time devoted to the support of President Washington's administration.
+His name was to become a household word, for his paper became the
+_Commercial Advertiser_ (that lived and throve even in the twentieth
+century), and after he had left the city he wrote a world-famed
+dictionary.
+
+The poetic muse hovered closest about Philip Freneau in the days of
+stirring scenes and momentous events. The Poet of the Revolution was
+less active when quieter days came. Still he continued to pass a life
+of restless energy, and lived far into another century and long after
+many another writer had arisen to eclipse him in the literary life of
+New York.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+In the Days of Thomas Paine
+
+
+When the eighteenth century was within two years of its close, a group
+of men, perhaps half a dozen in all, made up the writers of New York.
+
+The city then lay between the park (a name that had just been bestowed
+upon the Common of old) and the Battery; with Broadway, the main
+thoroughfare of the town, sending out tendrils of narrow streets to
+tangle and turn about themselves in such persistent fashion that they
+were never to be straightened out. Quite abruptly, where the park
+began, Broadway dwindled from a street to a lane, but with a strong
+branch thoroughfare to the east which, with the advent of years, was
+to become Park Row. It was not a new thoroughfare by any means, since,
+as far back as the days of the Dutch Governors, it had been the one
+road that led up through the forested island.
+
+There faced the road, and so quite of necessity faced the park as
+well, a square building, its front so taken up with windows and doors
+as to cause wonder that there should be any pretence whatsoever of a
+front wall. Not an attractive building, with these many windows always
+staring, like eyes, across the road into the park, but one to be
+remembered because, for one reason or another, it could well be called
+the literary centre of the town. Here it stood, the first Park
+Theatre, towering above its neighbors, glistening in its newness.
+
+[Illustration: The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre
+
+The corner stone of
+this Theatre was laid
+on the 5th day of May
+AD 1795
+
+Jacob Morton     }
+Wm. Henderson    } Commissioners
+Carlile Pollock  }
+
+Lewis Hallem     }
+John Hodgkinson  } managers]
+
+It was rare in the days when the Park Theatre was new, just as it is
+rare nowadays, for writers to be of a practical turn of mind. But in
+this little group, oddly enough, there was one man of business. He was
+the proprietor of the theatre, and although he wrote plays, and
+painted pictures, and wrote books, William Dunlap was a man of
+affairs. His home was around the corner in quiet Ann Street, which in
+another hundred years came to be a very noisy street indeed, crowded
+with venders of every sort of odds and ends that can be imagined. A
+block away, around another corner in Beekman Street, on the south side
+below Nassau, was Dunlap's home when he had given up the theatre,
+settled down to literature, and got to writing his important books,
+the _American Theatre_ and the _History, Rise, and Progress of the
+Arts of Design in the United States_. While he was yet managing the
+theatre, Dunlap's favorite strolling-place was up along the parkside,
+past the Brick Church, and so on a few steps across Nassau Street to
+where Spruce Street has its start. On any pleasant afternoon he could
+be found standing on that corner, for a time at least, before the
+door of Martling's Tavern, where the Tammany Society had its first
+home. Looking at that first Wigwam after this lapse of time, it seems
+picturesque enough, and it must in truth have been so, for the enemies
+of the Tammany Society were in the habit of referring to it as the
+"Pig-pen." A frame building, low, rough, and unpainted, with a
+bar-room at one end, a kitchen at the other, and between the two a
+"long room," some steps lower than the general floor,--that was
+Martling's.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND SPRUCE
+STREETS.]
+
+In the tap-room at Martling's, after an evening in which the untimely
+death of George Frederick Cooke had been discussed, Dunlap announced
+his intention of writing a life of his actor-friend, who then lay in a
+new-made grave in St. Paul's Churchyard. The book was written, and
+though few remember the volume now, it was widely read and served to
+keep alive the actor's memory. Since that time the grave has been
+cared for, and the marble tombstone, later erected by Edmund Kean,
+still stands amid the bushes close by the entrance door of the Chapel.
+
+It was in the year 1810 that Cooke played at the Park Theatre, the
+first foreign "star" to come to the city and to attract the
+townspeople in such wise that they almost mobbed the playhouse in
+their efforts to see him. It was this same Cooke, who, hearing many
+speak of a young actor who had played there the year before, said, "I
+should have liked to have seen this Payne of yours." Cooke saw him the
+next year, and they appeared together in this same Park Theatre, Payne
+playing Edgar to Cooke's Lear.
+
+The name of John Howard Payne did not then have the significance that
+it came to have later. For he was known only as a youth who had acted
+Norval in the tragedy of _Douglas_ with such fiery earnestness as to
+be proclaimed the "Young American Roscius." Who could have foreseen
+that adventurous "boy actor" grown to manhood, and writing a song that
+was to live and be known the world over by reason of its appeal to all
+hearts?
+
+In Pearl Street, scarce a foot of which is left untrod by the
+footsteps of the writers of the city, Payne was born. Around the
+modest house that bore the number 33, near to Whitehall Street, he
+first toddled with baby steps, and the nearby "broad" street, where
+the canal had been, was his first journey when he could walk. His
+parents moved to East Hampton, on Long Island, so early in his
+childhood, and so many of his childish days were passed in the fields
+there while his father taught school in the Clinton Academy, that
+East Hampton is often spoken of as the place of his birth. But for all
+that the "lowly thatched cottage" of his song was there, and for all
+that much of his later life was passed in foreign countries, Payne
+loved the city of his birth and took occasion many times to say so.
+
+In London, when ill-luck bore hardest upon him, he wrote _Clari, the
+Maid of Milan_, and gave _Home, Sweet Home_ to the heroine as her
+principal song. He received the honors of New York when he returned
+for a brief period, twenty-two years after his boyish triumph at the
+Park Theatre, and was so affectionately remembered that when, a decade
+later, he died in far-away Tunis, it was felt that he should not be
+left in a foreign land. But, although this sentiment was strong, it
+was not until 1883 that his body was brought to America. Then, for a
+day, the coffin lay in state in the City Hall, in the Governor's Room,
+close by a window from which a view could be had of where the old Park
+Theatre had stood, just across the stretch of green sward. And the
+people, in honor of the man whose one song had thrilled an entire
+world, filed past the sealed coffin by the thousands, and shed many a
+tear that day.
+
+One of the tortuous streets springing from Broadway, starting close by
+Trinity Church, winding away to the east, and mingling with other
+streets until brought to an abrupt halt by the river, was called, and
+is still called, Pine Street. In the first days of the nineteenth
+century it bore no suggestion, save in name, of a forest that once
+stretched above the city. In those good old days when the Dutch held
+full sway, Cornelius van Tienhoven was the bookkeeper of the West
+India Company, and when he married the step-daughter of Jan Jansen
+Damen, the bride brought him as dower a slice of this forest. When,
+later, a clearing was cut through the wood it was called Tienhoven's
+Street. But such a name rang too strongly Dutch for those who served
+an English king, and when the English came they quickly called it King
+Street. And so it remained until after the Revolution, when, in
+remembrance of the Dutch forest, the name was changed to Pine Street.
+
+Now, whether it was pure accident or whether he searched and found the
+prettiest street in all the town, it is nevertheless a fact that here
+Dr. Elihu Hubbard Smith had fixed his home, scarce more than a block
+from Trinity Church, and here he wrote much of his verse. Here, too,
+in his house, on many a Tuesday evening, met the Friendly Club, and
+at these meetings, following the custom of the club from the time that
+Washington lived in the city, each member in turn read a passage from
+some favorite author, thus giving impetus to the conversation. In Dr.
+Smith's parlor, joining in these discussions, sat William Dunlap,
+Charles Brockden Brown, James Kent, Joseph Dennie, and all the writers
+of the circle. It was Dr. Smith who wrote the prologue for the Park
+Theatre upon its opening, and not a member of the Friendly Club but
+attended the first performance.
+
+[Illustration: MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827.]
+
+It is small wonder that Charles Brockden Brown was the foremost member
+of the club. He had just claim. Thrusting aside criticism and advice,
+ignoring the fact that he was an invalid facing the hardship that must
+be overcome, he stood forth as the first writer in America to support
+himself by his pen alone. The Bar, even though there was ever so fair
+a prospect of his earning a living by it, could not attract him
+against his natural desire. The writings of this determined genius
+could not but be successful. Seeking no friends, but having many,
+preferring the single companionship of Dr. Smith, with whom he lived,
+Charles Brockden Brown wrote his novel, _Wieland_, and followed it in
+the next three years with _Ormond_, _Edgar Huntley_, _Arthur Mervyn_,
+_Jane Talbot_, and _Clara Howard_. Many a man of the pen, in
+admiration of the iron will of this first American novelist, finds a
+delight in thinking of him and in following his footsteps along Pine
+Street and the lower end of Broadway to the Battery.
+
+[Illustration: The Post Office
+
+William St.]
+
+In the days of bereavement following the death of Dr. Smith, the
+companion of Brown's solitude was Joseph Dennie. Often in the
+intervals of work they wandered through the quiet park, and many a
+time they knelt together in the Brick Church, a square beyond the Park
+Theatre, with the memory of their dead companion strong upon them. The
+shadow of their friend's death was still over them when they parted,
+and Joseph Dennie went to Philadelphia to start his magazine, _The
+Portfolio_, which was to cause the name of "The Lay Preacher" to ring
+through the land. He was in Philadelphia when Brown, in 1803, started
+_The Literary Magazine and American Register_. But the next year he
+was in New York again, occasionally joining in a literary partnership
+in which there was a third member now, for Brown had married the
+daughter of Dr. Linn, the Presbyterian minister. The years rolled on,
+and Brown sought to fight off death by terrific work. But death only
+clutched him the tighter. The strolls with Elizabeth, his
+gentle-hearted wife, grew shorter and shorter and less frequent, until
+they ceased altogether six years after his marriage, and another
+landmark in the literary history of the city had gone down.
+
+There was one stately and studious member of the Friendly Club who, it
+is recorded, could seldom be persuaded to go to the Park Theatre
+except on the "great nights." James Kent, then a Professor of Law at
+Columbia College, when not at work (those were rare moments indeed),
+loved best to wander over the College grounds. These are now lost
+beyond all tracing in the overcrowding between the City Hall and
+Hudson River. Then it was a delightful country spot. When Professor
+Kent did not walk on the College grounds by the riverside, he strolled
+up Broadway past the hospital with his friend, Dr. David Hosack, and
+the two discussed at length the Elgin Botanical Garden that the
+physician had just laid out three miles above the city. It was this
+James Kent who came to be Chancellor of New York and whose memory
+lives in his _Commentaries on American Law_.
+
+Beyond the city, separated from it in summer by a mile of marshy and
+untilled land, in winter by a dreary waste with a single road leading
+across a snow-bound way, lay the village of Greenwich. A dreamy little
+country place that had been an Indian village before the settling of
+New Amsterdam; with lines of peaked-roof houses on zig-zagged lanes,
+and now and again, in the midst of a farm-like garden, a rambling
+house of stone, with great square windows and gables enough for half a
+dozen houses. The village might have been thousands of miles away from
+New York for all the likeness it bore to it.
+
+On a dusty and rarely travelled lane, that led from the village
+towards the city, lived a man who had won the hearts of Americans by
+writing _Common Sense_, but who lived to reap their hatred by writing
+_The Age of Reason_, a deistic argument against Christianity. In the
+quiet village his house was pointed out as the abode of a friendless
+man, and when they spoke of him the villagers whispered the dread
+name--Tom Paine.
+
+There he lived with Madame Bonneville and her two sons, the only
+companions he cared to have near him save his own thoughts. In that
+picturesque spot he was fully content to pass his final days in
+solitude and marked contrast to a life of energy and excitement.
+
+It is close upon a century since that time, and the pilgrim feet that
+seek to follow Paine through Greenwich Village must walk Bleecker
+Street (the dusty lane in much changed form), must pass Grove Street,
+and the fourth house from the corner, on the north side, walking
+towards the east, is Paine's. It was humble enough in the days when he
+lived there. It is far humbler now in contrast to the buildings that
+have grown up about it. A two-story frame house, the ground floor is
+made into a store, as though it made an effort to keep up with the
+business character of the street. Two brick structures rise above it
+on each side and seem to have forced the roof to a frightful angle, so
+different is it from its new neighbors. Once Joel Barlow went to see
+Paine there, and the two spent almost an entire day beside a front
+window, talking of many things. Paine recalled the troublous days of
+the French Revolution, when he had written his _Age of Reason_ in the
+prison of the Luxembourg, and had given it to Barlow to find a
+publisher. The author of the _Columbiad_ often spoke of the visit
+later.
+
+The dusty road where the house stood, even though it was little
+travelled, came to be too noisy a place for Paine, for in his illness
+even the chance passer-by irritated him. So he moved away to a house
+in a nearby field, so far from the road that he found absolute quiet.
+In after days Grove Street swept this home away, and another building,
+numbered 59, is pointed out as the place where Paine died shortly
+after his removal.
+
+The hatred of many people followed Thomas Paine even after death, and
+there could be no rest for an advocate of infidel opinions in a town
+where dwelt descendants of stern Huguenots. His body was taken to New
+Rochelle, and there, refused burial in hallowed ground, was finally
+laid to rest outside the town, in a corner of the farm given to him by
+the State in recognition of his services in the cause of the colonies
+against the mother country. Ten years later, William Cobbett, the
+English Radical, an ardent admirer of Paine, visited New Rochelle,
+and, seeing the neglected grave by the wayside, had the bones dug up
+one night and spirited away to England. In another twenty years the
+followers of Thomas Paine had grown in number, and the Paine
+Historical Society erected a monument over the empty grave by the
+roadside. But on this spot, where no rest had been permitted him in
+life or in death, it seems rather to mock than to bless his grave.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+The City that Irving Knew
+
+
+Stretching from Broadway towards the east, starting from the
+ivy-covered walls of the Chapel of St. Paul--here lay the scenes of
+Washington Irving's childhood. Golden Hill was the name given to this
+district, long before Irving was born; called so because of its golden
+appearance in the autumn days. It was a wondrously beautiful place,
+and set squarely upon the hill-top was an inn that, in the days of the
+Revolution, came to be a meeting-place for patriots. Even now, when
+the glories of Golden Hill seem quite forgotten, there are those who
+love to walk its crowded ways, and who firmly believe that it came by
+its name in prophecy of the golden flower of literature one day to be
+born close by it.
+
+[Illustration: Golden Hill Inn]
+
+The lane that once had its course up the grain-covered hill is there
+yet; now, a crowded, dismal thoroughfare bearing the name of William
+Street. It is well to start with this old lane, partly because it is
+the oldest street in the Golden Hill district, and partly because the
+Golden Hill inn of old still stands upon it: a squatty building built
+of narrow bricks that were brought from Holland, with a tall chimney
+like none of its neighbors; a venerable house full of cracks and
+crevices, carved mantels, open fireplaces, wide doorways; made over to
+conform to modern business ideas, but not conforming to these very
+well; painted and patched up to look new, but looking quite its age to
+any one with half an eye for architecture.
+
+Almost opposite this inn of Golden Hill, midway of the block between
+Fulton and John streets, there stood in the year 1783 a quaint little
+two-storied dwelling with high-backed roof. One morning the patrons of
+the inn had a bit to gossip about. It was a year for gossip anyway,
+for the War of the Revolution was near its close. The talk was of a
+child that had been born to the Irving family over the way, and who
+was to be called Washington in honor of the man so well named the
+"Father of his Country." Before another year the Irving family moved
+into a house next to the inn on the north and separated from it only
+by a garden. In this house Washington Irving spent his youth. Close by
+he was baptized, in the Chapel of St. George. The Chapel is gone now,
+but where Beekman Street crosses Cliff, on the front of a building
+appear in raised letters the words "St. George Building," that show
+the spot where it once stood.
+
+Not far off is the place where the John Street Theatre was, where
+Irving went with his friend James K. Paulding, who was himself to make
+a name in the literature of the city. Irving's parents were not given
+to theatre-going, but Irving, when the family prayers had been said
+and he had been sent to bed, ofttimes crept out of the gable window,
+slid down the slanting roof, dropped to the ground, and stole away. He
+went, just as now following in his footsteps you can go, past the old
+inn, around the next corner where, on a house wall, is a tablet
+reciting the departed glories of Golden Hill, then on a few steps
+until you reach, close by Broadway, a dreary arcade. Walk through the
+arcade and you will find it heavy with the sounds of workmen and
+machines. The arcade was a covered way leading to the playhouse, and
+is all that remains of the theatre.
+
+[Illustration: St. George's Chapel
+
+Beekman St.]
+
+Two minutes' walk away in Ann Street was Mrs. Ann Kilmaster's school,
+where Irving studied. Ann Street is only three blocks long and far
+from an inviting spot at any point, but here, in the last block of its
+length, it dwindles to half the width it had in starting.
+
+A score of steps from the school, at the northwest corner of Ann
+Street and William, Irving lived with his mother after his father's
+death. The house is no longer there, but there is one just like it
+five houses farther along William Street, that stood there in Irving's
+time.
+
+In the Ann Street house, when he was a law clerk, he did his first
+writing, the sketches signed "Jonathan Oldstyle," and published in the
+_Morning Chronicle_, which was conducted by his brother Peter. From
+this house, while still a lad, he loved to wander down the streets
+that stretched over the eastern slope of Golden Hill, and spent hours
+on the piers watching the ships loading and unloading, dreaming of the
+foreign ports where they had touched, hoping that he might one day see
+the shores of those far-away lands. For even in his boyhood the
+longing for travel was strong upon him.
+
+He was still a law clerk, and still living in this Ann Street house,
+when he sat in an upper room with his brother William and James K.
+Paulding, and they planned a magazine of their own. They went to see
+David Longworth, the printer, in his shop beside the Park
+Theatre,--"Dusky Davie" they called him, after a song that was popular
+at the time,--and after many conferences and much secret doing the
+three stripling writers started the sparkling _Salmagundi_ on its way,
+with the avowed purpose "to instruct the young, reform the old,
+correct the town, and castigate the age." Paulding was the "Launcelot
+Langstaff" of the publication, and William Irving was "Pindar
+Cockloft" the poet.
+
+To the west of Golden Hill, Cortlandt Street extends to the river. In
+a house on that street close by Broadway, the three writers of
+_Salmagundi_ spent much time at the home of the Fairlie sisters.
+There lived Mary Fairlie, known to _Salmagundi_ readers as "Sophia
+Sparkle," and who married Cooper the tragic actor.
+
+In the Ann Street house most of the _Knickerbocker History of New
+York_ was written. Washington Irving and his brother Peter were to
+write it as an extravagant burlesque on Dr. Samuel Mitchill's _Picture
+of New York_, then a very popular and learned work. But Peter Irving
+was forced to Europe by ill health in 1808, and Washington settled
+down to the history, changing its plan and scope. Ten minutes' walk to
+the north of where Irving lived in Ann Street is a little park--a
+green spot that has taken the place of the squalid Mulberry Bend slum.
+In Mulberry Street opposite the park was the location of the imaginary
+Independent Columbian Hotel where Dietrich Knickerbocker was supposed
+to have lived, and left his manuscript in payment of his board bill.
+
+But by far the most important house connected with this part of
+Irving's life is gone now. This was in Broadway where Leonard Street
+now crosses. A square house of many rooms, indeed it was a mansion in
+the city of 1809. Here lived Josiah Ogden Hoffman, the protector of
+the youthful author, in whose office Irving came by his law training.
+In the Hoffman mansion, Irving courted Matilda Hoffman, the lawyer's
+fair daughter; here he saw her sicken and grow more feeble day by day;
+here she died, and so ended the romance of his life. He never
+mentioned her name in after days and could not bear to hear it spoken.
+But she lived in his memory, and he never married. In the depths of
+his seclusion, during the first months of his sorrow, he finished the
+_History_. But his heart was not in the laughter of the book, and he
+made joy for others out of his own sorrow.
+
+Two years after this, Irving was living beside the Bowling Green, at
+16 Broadway, with his friend, Henry Brevoort, at the house of Mrs.
+Ryckman. While here he edited the _Analectic Magazine_. From here he
+often strolled up Broadway as far as Cortlandt Street, to dine at the
+house of Jane Renwick, then passing her widowhood in the city. Her son
+became the Professor James Renwick of Columbia College. It was she of
+whom Burns sang as _The Blue-Eyed Lassie_.
+
+Still another house knew the Irving of early days, the boarding-house
+of Mrs. Brandish, at Greenwich and Rector streets, where he went from
+Bowling Green. It was a pretty brick building on a quiet street then,
+but it is a gloomy-enough place to look upon now, darkened by the
+Elevated Railroad and overrun with hoards of noisy children and
+tenement dwellers; a strange spot to look for memories of the
+gentle-hearted Irving.
+
+When Irving left New York in 1815, it was with no intention of
+remaining away any length of time. In England he wrote _Rip Van
+Winkle_, though he had never been in the Catskills, where the scene of
+his classic lay. In Paris he met John Howard Payne, and the two worked
+together, in the Rue Richelieu, adapting French plays to English
+representation--but this partnership came to little. He went to Spain
+and there, while writing the _Life and Voyages of Columbus_, he met a
+young man then fitting himself by travel to enter on the duties of
+Professor of Modern Languages in Bowdoin College. This was Henry W.
+Longfellow, unknown then as a poet. While in Spain, Irving occupied
+the Governor's quarters in the Alhambra, an otherwise deserted palace,
+abiding there in a kind of Oriental dream, and living over in
+imagination the _Conquest of Granada_. Back in London again as
+Secretary of the Legation to the Court of St. James, he arranged his
+material for the _Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, and half a
+dozen other works. Then, after seventeen years of wandering, he
+returned to his native city.
+
+Although he tells us that his heart throbbed at sight of New York, and
+that in all his travels he had seen no place that caused such a thrill
+of joy, it was no longer the city of his youth. He had left a town of
+one hundred thousand people and found a city of two hundred thousand.
+The companions of his youth had grown to be men, and many of them were
+renowned in literature and business life. He found streets grown long
+out of all remembrance, houses tall beyond all knowing, strangers who
+knew him simply as a name. He found many silent graves where he had
+left blooming youth. But for all this there were many ready and
+anxious to do him honor.
+
+A few steps beyond Trinity Churchyard on Broadway is a narrow
+thoroughfare called Thames Street. It is easy to be found, and beside
+it is a tall building on which is a tablet relating how the Burns's
+Coffee-House once stood on the spot. This had been a mansion built by
+Étienne De Lancey, a Huguenot noble, and Thames Street was the
+carriage-way that led to the door. In this coffee-house the merchants
+of the city signed the Non-Importation Agreement in the days before
+the Revolution.
+
+When Irving returned to the city the coffee-house was gone, and on
+its site was the City Hotel, the main hostelry of the city. Here the
+chief citizens gathered and a banquet was held and all honor paid to
+the "illustrious guest, thrice welcome to his native city."
+
+[Illustration: The City Hotel]
+
+From the site of this old house, it is a pleasant walk down Broadway,
+past the Bowling Green to Bridge Street, where, at No. 3, Irving,
+after his return, went to live with his brother Ebenezer, who had been
+the Captain Greatheart of "Cockloft Hall." Here, in this home, Irving
+spent many happy days. It was called by him "the family hive," for it
+was always filled to overflowing with relatives.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. JAMES KIRKE PAULDING.
+2. PHILIP HONE.
+3. WASHINGTON IRVING.
+4. JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE.
+5. FITZ GREENE HALLECK.
+6. J. FENIMORE COOPER.]
+
+But one place above all others in New York is filled with the memory
+of Irving. This is a bit of ground on the east side of the city, a
+point of land stretching out into the river. Here of all places the
+spirit of Irving still lingers, for here of all places it is less
+changed in appearance since his feet trod the ground. In Irving's day
+it was a stretch of countryside with summer houses of the wealthy at
+long distances facing the river. Now, though the city has encompassed
+it, there is still left the one green spot by the riverside beyond
+Eighty-eighth Street. The East River Park they call it, and there are
+rough stone steps leading to the waterside, winding paths and
+overhanging trees--the trees that Irving stood beneath. And there,
+across the stretch of water, is Hell Gate, its tempestuous waters
+tamed by the hand of man, but nevertheless the same Hell Gate that
+Irving looked upon and that Irving wrote about. Part of this park were
+the grounds of John Jacob Astor, the friend of Irving. His house stood
+beyond the park, where Eighty-eighth Street now touches East End
+Avenue,--a square two-story frame dwelling of colonial type, painted
+white, with deep veranda, wide halls, and spacious rooms; set high
+upon a hill, backed by a forest of towering trees, and fronted by a
+vast lawn stretching by gentle slope to the cliff at the riverside.
+Here Irving was a guest, and wrote _Astoria_, telling of Astor's
+settlement on the Columbia River and of scenes beyond the Rockies;
+here he met Captain Bonneville and his friends, and the journals of
+the one and thrilling tales of the other gave material for the
+_Adventures of Captain Bonneville_.
+
+The house of Astor is gone now, but within the limits of this park
+still stands the home of Gracie, the merchant, where Irving was a
+constant visitor, and where, in the rooms given over to stranger
+hands, still linger memories of Paulding and Halleck, Bancroft and
+Drake, and a host of others.
+
+[Illustration: The House of Astor where Irving wrote "Astoria"]
+
+It was while working on _Astoria_ that Irving began the building of
+Wolfert's Roost, the Van Tassel house of the _Legend of Sleepy
+Hollow_, on that delightful spot on the Hudson which in the first
+days of Irving's residence there was called Dearman. In after time the
+name was changed to Irvington, in his honor, and Wolfert's Roost, in
+honor of the glorious country, became Sunnyside. It is Sunnyside to
+this day, altered by additions made in the intervening years, but
+still the house of Irving; and the ivy clinging to its walls has
+sprung from a root taken from the ruins of Scott's "fair Melrose" and
+planted where it now grows by the friendly hand of Jane Renwick.
+
+[Illustration: Where Irving lived--17th St. and Irving Place]
+
+On the corner of Seventeenth Street and Irving Place (a thoroughfare
+to which his memory gave a name), late in life, Irving lived betimes.
+Here was once the home of John T. Irving, a nephew of the author. It
+is a sturdy house still, and looks as youthful as its neighbors that
+were built many a day after it. Then it stood quite alone in a stretch
+of country. From the windows of the large room on the ground floor,
+Irving could see the waters of the East River. In this room he wrote
+portions of _Oliver Goldsmith_, parts, too, of the _Life of Mahomet_,
+and arranged the notes of what was to be his last book--the _Life of
+Washington_.
+
+But his real home was Sunnyside, and there, in the year 1859, when he
+was seventy-six years old, he died.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+With Paulding, Drake, and Halleck
+
+
+In the summer of 1797, a tall, well-built lad with a face showing just
+a suggestion of melancholy, landed from the weekly market sloop and
+walked along the streets of New York for the first time. He was a
+country boy, well versed in trees and brooks and used to pathless
+hills and rough country roads, and his first impression of New York
+was that the dwellers there were great lumpkins. He could not imagine
+why they pointed at him and nodded at him and laughed as he walked in
+the middle of the street, quite disregarding the paved walk. He
+stopped, from time to time, to ask his way, until he came to a little
+square brick house in Vesey Street, below Church, bearing the number
+43, the home of William Irving. There he went in and was given a good
+hug by Mrs. Irving. The boy was James Kirke Paulding, and she who
+welcomed him was his sister, with whom he was to live until he should
+get a start in the ways and work of the city.
+
+William Irving lived in a house delightfully situated, though no one
+would think so now when the spot is jammed with merchants' warehouses,
+and sounds of trade fill the air. When Paulding came to town, it was
+beyond the ken of the business section, and there were not so many
+houses about but that he could enjoy an inviting view. From the front
+door he looked straight before him over the grounds of Columbia
+College, and to the left across green gardens to the river. From his
+little window in the upper story he saw the city to the south, and to
+the east St. Paul's Chapel, with the steeple that came to be so gray
+with age looking then so new, for it had just been added to the
+church. Beyond the graveyard and across Broadway, he had a good view
+of the park with its three buildings--the Bridewell, the Almshouse,
+and the Prison,--and across the park could see the Park Theatre and
+the Brick Church. He could catch a glimpse of Broadway winding over a
+hill toward the Stone Bridge at Canal Street, and other roads leading
+into the country towards the north, where level stretches led past
+rude farmhouses and quaint inns.
+
+The first few years of Paulding in the city, when he was clerk in the
+United States Loan Office, were years of hard work. But there were
+relaxations, too, for his relationship to William Irving brought him
+in contact with the other members of the family--young Washington
+Irving and Dr. Peter Irving. When, in a few years, Dr. Irving
+published his newspaper, the _Morning Chronicle_, Paulding wrote bits
+of prose and verse for it. So his first writings appeared in the same
+publication and at the same time as the first writings of Washington
+Irving, and it was the interchange of thought in the Vesey Street
+house and the opportunities afforded by the _Morning Chronicle_ that
+led Paulding's thoughts towards writing as a profession.
+
+Meantime there was much going on in the way of improvement. The new
+City Hall was erected in the park; the first free schoolhouse was
+opened; and Fulton's _Clermont_ sailed up the Hudson, the first
+successful steamboat. A commission had been appointed, too, with the
+object of directing the course of the streets, which up to that time
+had grown out of the paths left by the cows in their wanderings to
+pasture. The commissioners did their work so that, as time went on,
+the highways were laid out to form a city of strict right angles. The
+cows certainly did their part in a manner that left far more
+picturesque twists and turns than were to be found in the upper part
+laid out by the commissioners in such a scientifically uninteresting
+way.
+
+Paulding lived with William Irving in the Vesey Street house for nine
+years, and then the Irvings moved a few blocks the other side of
+Columbia College, to 287 Greenwich Street, and Paulding went with
+them. Here began the meetings of a literary set, which in a few months
+developed into the "Ancient Club of New York," with Washington, Peter,
+and William Irving, Paulding, Henry Brevoort, and Gouverneur Kemble
+leading members. Kemble owned some land in New Jersey, on which was
+located _Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, and on this account was called
+"The Patroon." From one of the informal meetings of the Ancient Club,
+Washington Irving, his brother William, and Paulding went secretly to
+Irving's house in Ann Street to discuss details of _Salmagundi_.
+Paulding wrote his share of _Salmagundi_ on the upper floor of the
+Greenwich Street house, while the lower floor was the mill of Pindar
+Cockloft, conducted by William Irving.
+
+From this house on many an evening the friends went to dine at Dyde's,
+the fascinating eating-house near the Park Theatre, then beginning a
+long career with the founders of _Salmagundi_ as a foundation for the
+memories that were to cluster around its doors, to be passed over,
+years later, to Windust's still more famous resort on almost the same
+spot.
+
+Paulding was still living with the Irving family when, in 1807, they
+went to live at No. 17 in aristocratic State Street, at the corner of
+Pearl, facing the Battery Park. Here, overlooking the blue waters of
+the bay dotted with sailboats and rowboats, and beyond to the
+stretches of Jersey shore, Paulding wrote his contributions to the
+_Analectic Magazine_, edited by Washington Irving from his home little
+more than a stone's throw away across the Bowling Green; also, _The
+Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_. Here, too,
+replying to an attack on his country, he wrote, _The United States and
+England_, a pamphlet that attracted the notice of President Madison,
+who summoned Paulding to Washington for eight years as Secretary of
+the Board of Navy Commissioners. During those eight years he wrote
+_The Backwoodsman_ his longest poem and the one which he liked best of
+all, a liking not generally shared by his readers; the second series
+of _Salmagundi_; and _Koningsmarke_.
+
+Having married Gertrude, the sister of his friend and companion
+Gouverneur Kemble, his days were moving smoothly along when the death
+of his wife's father took him again to New York and he went to live in
+what had long been the home of "The Patroon." This was a mansion of
+solid type in Whitehall Street, corner of Stone, set in the midst of a
+wide-spreading garden, a site blurred out in later days by the Produce
+Exchange. Here he lived during the fourteen years he acted as Navy
+Agent at New York, devoting his evenings to literary work, writing his
+most successful book, _The Dutchman's Fireside_, also _John Bull in
+America_, _Tales of the Good Woman_, and _Westward Ho!_ In the evening
+he went often to the Park Theatre, and came to know James H. Hackett,
+the greatest Falstaff America had seen, writing for him _The Lion of
+the West_, which Hackett acted for many years. And then after fifteen
+years in this house he left it, and with his family went to Washington
+as Secretary of the Navy.
+
+Once more, in 1841, he returned to New York, to live in Beach Street,
+then the fashionable St. John's Park neighborhood. But, his wife dying
+before he was really settled, he soon left New York and passed the
+last days of his life in Dutchess County, the region of his birth.
+
+At about the time Paulding moved into the State Street house two young
+men met one afternoon at the home of a mutual friend. One was
+studying medicine and beginning to see something more in life than a
+struggle for mere existence. He was Joseph Rodman Drake. The other,
+Fitz-Greene Halleck, was a bookkeeper and had but just come from his
+birthplace in Guilford, Connecticut. He had read much poetry and had
+written some stray verse. A few days after their meeting, the two came
+together again in the rooms where Halleck boarded in Greenwich Street,
+not half a dozen houses from the place where Washington Irving was
+living with Mrs. Brandish. The second meeting was the real start of an
+inseparable friendship which has caused them to be looked upon as the
+Orestes and Pylades of American poets.
+
+Halleck had begun his work for Jacob Barker. The warehouse where he
+was employed stands yet and can easily be found by walking down John
+Street to Burling Slip, and so on around the corner into South Street
+by the waterside. Drake ofttimes took that walk and sat there by the
+side of his friend's desk. Often, too, in the late afternoon, Halleck
+walked from there to the green that since has been called the City
+Hall Park, and sat until Drake came from his studies in the nearby
+College of Physicians and Surgeons. The college was part of Columbia,
+which lay to the west of the green. In time the city overgrew the
+college grounds so completely that those interested in remembering
+where they had been set up a tablet at West Broadway and Murray
+Street, as a reminder that they should not be entirely forgotten. From
+the park it was the wont of the youthful poets to walk along Broadway
+below Trinity Church--then the fashionable promenade,--and so on to
+the Battery, past where Irving had lived by the Bowling Green, past
+where Paulding was then living.
+
+The time came when Drake was graduated, and then there were the long
+evenings together back of his office in the store numbered 121 Bowery,
+just above Hester Street. From this house the friends made their long
+excursions across the Harlem River, far beyond the town, into the
+romantic Bronx of which Drake sang so often and so well.
+
+One night, starting from the Bowery shop, Drake took Halleck down
+Broadway into Thames Street, and there, back of the City Hotel, dined
+him in a dingy little public house, the first of many pleasant
+evenings there. It was the ale-house kept by William Reynolds, a
+genial, red-faced man who had been a grave-digger in the nearby
+Trinity Churchyard.
+
+The tavern remained a place of entertainment for close upon a hundred
+years, most of the time known as "Old Tom's," from Reynolds's
+successor. It came to be a landmark for the curious, but as the
+curious always stood outside and never by any chance went in to buy of
+what was on sale there, it went the way of all old places. To-day, if
+you turn into Thames Street, from busy Broadway, you come upon a mass
+of buildings in perpetual shade, and with a decidedly provincial air
+not at all in keeping with the up-to-date city. A walk of half a block
+brings you to Temple Street--a thoroughfare leading nowhere in
+particular, but which wise chroniclers have quarrelled over, some
+urging that it came by its name because of being close by Trinity
+Church, which is a temple of worship, and others quite as vigorously
+contending that it took its name from Charlotte Temple, who lived
+nearby. Here you find Reynolds's tavern metamorphosed into a modern
+place of business, and though the street is still quaint-appearing,
+every suggestion of romance has vanished from the tavern. Nevertheless
+the curious, who in its days of need regarded it from afar, love to
+sit in it, surrounded by modern conveniences, and tell what it was
+like "in Drake's time."
+
+Drake prospered, and after a time set up his pharmacy in the busiest
+part of town, that later grew to be the core of Newspaper Row. When
+Drake lived in Park Row, the second door from Beekman Street, he and
+Halleck hit upon the idea of the "Croaker Papers," a series of satires
+in verse, printed in the _Evening Post_, in which the poets sailed
+into the public characters of the day. This was the house where
+Halleck went to read his _Fanny_ to Drake, and made some corrections
+at his friend's suggestion before he gave it to the world.
+
+[Illustration: The Shakespeare Tavern]
+
+Around the corner from the Park Row shop, the Shakespeare Tavern was
+conducted by Thomas Hawkins Hodgkinson, the actor; a resort for the
+actors, the artists, the writers, the talkers of the town; a popular
+rendezvous quite in contrast to Reynolds's quiet inn. It stood at the
+southwest corner of Fulton and Nassau streets, a double house of
+brick, having for its sign a bust of the great poet over the door. In
+after years a tablet was set to mark the spot. Halleck tells of a
+meeting here with James Lawson, the journalist, who came to write the
+_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_.
+
+On a night when Drake and Paulding and some others gathered for a
+friendly evening there arose a discussion, argued for and against by
+all the company, as to whether or not the rivers of America were rich
+enough in legend and romance to lend themselves to poetic treatment.
+And after the talk had lengthened into the morning hours, Drake went
+to the room over his Park Row shop to put his view of the subject into
+writing. In a few days he read to Halleck the poem on which his fame
+chiefly rests, _The Culprit Fay_--a poetic fantasy illumining the
+Highlands of the Hudson.
+
+In the year 1820, Halleck sat in the Park Row house by the bedside of
+his friend, who was dying of consumption, and here, at the age of
+twenty-five, Joseph Rodman Drake passed away. Halleck followed the
+coffin to that beautiful spot beyond the Harlem that they both loved
+so well, and there by the side of the Bronx streamlet the poet Drake
+was buried. In the depth of his grief Halleck wrote the lines:
+
+     Green be the turf above thee,
+       Friend of my better days;
+     None knew thee but to love thee,
+       None named thee but to praise.
+
+And now after more than three quarters of a century the words still
+murmur their message of friendship and sorrow above Drake's grave. The
+city has sped on far beyond the little graveyard, and harsh sounds
+throb where once was only the singing of birds; but the consecrated
+spot remains, cared for year by year as well as may be in despite of
+relic-hunting vandals.
+
+Halleck outlived his friend by many long years. He gave up bookkeeping
+for Jacob Barker, and during eighteen years was the confidential
+manager of the affairs of John Jacob Astor. But he never failed to
+regret the comrade of his youth, losing with him much of his
+inspiration.
+
+[Illustration: The Jumel Mansion]
+
+Half an hour's journey from Drake's grave, on the western side of the
+Harlem River, there stands, at One Hundred and Sixtieth Street and
+Edgecombe Avenue, a house on a bluff so high above the river that it
+can be seen from afar--white in the sunlight. This is the Morris
+house, where Mary Philipse lived after she became the wife of Roger
+Morris; where Washington had his headquarters; where Madame Jumel
+lived, and where she married Aaron Burr. To the one who strolls in the
+footsteps of _littérateurs_ of a bygone day, it is, more than all, the
+house where Halleck visited, and where he wrote _Marco Bozzaris_.
+Although this was his most widely known poem, and though it was
+written five years after the death of Drake, the memory of his friend
+was like a fresh sorrow to him while he wrote. During forty odd years
+from that time he continued the gently courteous, witty talker, the
+dignified life of each gathering he attended. But, as he knew so well,
+his Muse was sorely wounded when Drake died, and the fuller poetic
+life that might have been his was buried on the green slope of the
+Bronx with his friend.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+Cooper and His Friends
+
+
+In that cheerless precinct of New York City to which still clings the
+name St. John's Park, though there has been no park there this
+half-century,--in Beach Street, a dozen or perhaps twenty steps from
+Hudson Street, there stands a house that could not fail to attract the
+attention of an observant passer-by. A brick building, its
+architectural features suggest roomy attractiveness--a condition
+little sought after in these days when the value of every inch of
+ground calls for compactness regardless of beauty of appearance. One
+looking at this building and given to sentiment might argue that it is
+strongly reminiscent of a human being who had once been vigorous and
+had made a considerable show in the world of fashion and pride, but
+who had sunk to poverty and decrepitude. For the carved window-cases
+are hacked and beaten away, the wrought-iron railings are twisted and
+rusty, the marble steps are cracked and crumbling, the high ceilings
+with their heavy and ornate mouldings are seamed and discolored, and
+the massive oaken doors are cracked by many a rusty nail driven into
+them, holding ragged and worn-out garments. Yet even in its age and
+neglect are found traces of its primal sturdy and artistic
+proportions.
+
+In the year 1821, this house was the home of James Fenimore Cooper.
+His first book, _Precaution_, had failed utterly. His second book,
+_The Spy_, had been prodigiously successful, when in this year he went
+to New York to live in what was then the fashionable district of St.
+John's Park. He was thirty-one years old, had lived at Cooperstown,
+studied at Yale, shipped as a sailor before the mast, made voyages to
+England and Spain, been appointed midshipman, and seen service on Lake
+Ontario and Lake Champlain, had resigned his commission, and had
+married Augusta de Lancey at Heathcote Hill Manor, Mamaroneck. After
+the birth of his daughter, Susan Fenimore Cooper, who became a writer
+of rural sketches, he settled down in Westchester County to live the
+life of a country gentleman. He might have remained there all his days
+but that one day he got hold of a particularly stupid book of English
+life, and was so bored by it that it forced from him the exclamation
+that he could write a better himself! Which remark being interpreted
+literally by his wife, there was nothing for the country gentleman but
+to make good his boast. So he wrote a dull and stupid story which
+even his friends had difficulty in reading to the end, and then,
+doubtless finding writing more agreeable than farming, wrote another
+that destined him evermore to a literary life.
+
+This much of Cooper's life was behind him when he moved into the Beach
+Street house. In this home he wrote _The Pioneers_, first of the
+famous Leatherstocking Tales and, too, _The Pilot_.
+
+In the New York of that day there was one place where he loved to go
+for a quiet dinner and discussion with the literary friends whom he
+quickly gathered around him. This was the chief hostelry of the day,
+the City Hotel, which stood close by where Wall Street runs into
+Broadway. It was at one of these dinners that he met James A.
+Hillhouse, who, though he had already written _The Judgment_ and was
+recognized as a poet, was then engaged in mercantile pursuits in the
+city; but was very soon to make a home in New Haven and remain there
+during the rest of his life. Hillhouse was not a regular diner with
+Cooper, but he introduced there a friend who became much more regular
+in his attendance. Samuel Woodworth was even then shouldering aside
+adversity with intermittent success. It was his habit to walk briskly
+up from his printing office at the foot of Wall Street, very much in
+the manner of a man having an imperative appointment. Four years
+before Cooper came to town, on a very hot summer day, Woodworth had
+walked in this same eager manner to his house farther up-town in Duane
+Street, and there, drinking from a pump before his door, had said:
+"I'd like to have a drink to-day from the old bucket that hung in my
+father's well." Whereupon his kindly wife hinted that the old bucket
+of his remembrance would make a good subject for a poem--a hint that
+within the hour took the form of _The Old Oaken Bucket_, a pastoral
+poem well remembered and much sung, though many another of his, many
+an operetta, and even the historical romance, _The Champion of
+Freedom_, have faded from memory.
+
+At these dinners, when Cooper sat with his friends, Woodworth and
+Morris held the first discussions of the plans for _The Mirror_, which
+was started in 1823, but from which the inconstant Woodworth soon
+retired.
+
+On more than one occasion one of the dinner party was Richard Henry
+Dana, a founder of the _North American Review_ and the friend of
+Bryant. The City Hotel was quite convenient for him, for he had made a
+sort of headquarters in the place of Wiley, the publisher, around the
+corner in Wall Street by New Street. At that time he issued from
+Wiley's shop _The Idle Man_, that literary publication which scarcely
+lived long enough to include his novels, _Tom Thornton_ and _Paul
+Felton_, and some contributions from Washington Allston and Bryant.
+
+Many a good idea came from the meetings at the City Hotel, but
+possibly none more felicitous than that of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+This remained so long in the germ that the realization seemed far off,
+but finally, in 1824, began the holding of its fortnightly meetings in
+Washington Hall--afterwards swept away to give place to the Stewart
+Building at Broadway and Reade Street. The club derived its name from
+Cooper's conceit of having candidates balloted for with bread and
+cheese, a bit of bread favoring election and cheese deciding against
+it.
+
+[Illustration: Washington Hall]
+
+As Cooper had in the main originated the club, he was the leading
+spirit around whom gathered Halleck and Bryant, Percival, Professor
+Renwick, Dr. J.W. Francis, and all the writers of the day. An
+enthusiastic member was Philip Hone, who had just retired from
+business and bought a house at 235 Broadway opposite the park, a site
+considered a good way up-town for a residence. His diary, which in
+after years led him to be called the Pepys of America, was commenced
+in this house, but the greater part was written at his residence of
+later date, at the southwest corner of Broadway and Great Jones
+Street.
+
+Gulian C. Verplanck was a member too. At the time he occupied a
+professorship in the General Theological Seminary. From one of the
+meetings he walked down Broadway and through Wall Street past the
+house, near Broad Street, where he was born, discussing with Bryant
+and Robert C. Sands an early suggestion of the _Talisman_ magazine,
+which was not to ripen into an accomplished fact for a good three
+years. On this same walk, too, he took part while Bryant and Sands
+discussed plans for the _Atlantic Monthly_, which Sands established
+the next year.
+
+But writers were not the only members of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+There were scholars and professional men, and often there were
+statesmen and men of national distinction as guests. But as Cooper was
+its leading spirit, when he left for his trip abroad the club went to
+pieces. He started in 1825 on his foreign travels, and at the time of
+his going was living at 345 Greenwich Street, where he had finished
+work on _The Last of the Mohicans_.
+
+In the year after his going there was a gala night at the Lafayette
+Theatre, when _The Spy_ was enacted. The Lafayette was the largest
+theatre then. Upon its site in West Broadway near Canal Street St.
+Alphonsus's Church now stands. To that performance came from up-State
+Enoch Crosby, who was said to be the original Spy, and when he
+appeared in a box with some friends the audience gave him a thunderous
+ovation.
+
+Cooper returned from abroad in 1833, having added _The Prairie_, _The
+Red Rover_, _The Water Witch_, and _The Bravo_ to his list of
+published books, and went to live in Bleecker Street, two blocks from
+Broadway, near Thompson Street. This was a select neighborhood then of
+pretty, irregular brick dwellings. The house is there yet, but the
+neighborhood is no longer elegant. Italian merchants, unkempt in
+appearance, carry on meagre and uncertain kinds of business, and
+Cooper's old house is so decorated with signs inside and out as to be
+picturesque only for its dinginess and disorder. Cooper did not live
+there long, for he soon moved to Broadway at Prince Street, into a
+house that later gave way to Niblo's Garden, and there he completed
+work on the volumes covering his stay in Europe, under the titles
+_Sketches in Switzerland_ and _Gleanings in Europe_. But he made no
+very long stay on Broadway, for he moved again, this time to St.
+Mark's Place, a few doors from Third Avenue, into an unpretentious
+brick house of three stories that is there still. There he wrote
+_Homeward Bound_ and began in earnest that fierce combat with his
+critics which was to last to the end of his days and leave many a
+regret that he had not been a more even-tempered man. From this house
+he went to Cooperstown, which became his final home.
+
+At the time that Cooper lived in New York there walked along Broadway,
+between Canal Street and the Chapel of St. Paul's, on almost every
+pleasant afternoon, a man who in appearance was a veritable Hamlet.
+His garb was a customary suit of solemn black, and his eyes sought the
+ground as he moved with pensive step. This was McDonald Clarke, whose
+eccentric appearance and acts and whose melancholy verses gave him the
+name of The Mad Poet.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831.]
+
+If Broadway was his walk of an afternoon, Park Row was his haunt by
+night; and Windust's place, a door or two below the Park Theatre
+(literally below it, for it was beneath the sidewalk), was his
+centring point.
+
+The resort of Edward Windust was not an old place, but a famous one.
+It was opened in 1824 and lasted only until 1837, when the proprietor
+thought himself cramped in space and opportunity and, moving away to
+seek a larger field, found failure. It was the actors' museum of the
+city. Its walls were lined with reminders of the stage: playbills, and
+swords that had seen the service of savage mimic wars; pictures, and
+frames of clippings, and bits of the wardrobes of kings and queens who
+had strutted their brief hour and passed away. It was the nightly
+gathering point of such actors as were in town, such writers, such
+wits, such gallant gentlemen. Edmund Kean and the Wallacks, Harry
+Placide and Cooper, Jack Scott, Mitchell, Brown, and Junius Brutus
+Booth were frequenters, with Fitz-Greene Halleck, Willis, Morris, and
+the rest, who nightly crowded the tier of stalls that ranged along one
+side of the room, making them resound with gay and brilliant talk.
+
+In Windust's, too, sat McDonald Clarke in gloomy majesty night after
+night. There he formed among many others the acquaintance of Mordecai
+M. Noah, journalist and playwright, who had been Consul at Tunis and
+who in the years to come was to start several unsuccessful papers,
+until in 1843 he was to publish the _Sunday Times and Messenger_,
+which continued for more than half a century.
+
+From Windust's McDonald Clarke often wandered out into the City Hall
+Park over the way, and sat there through many a long summer night
+dreaming over his _Elixir of Moonshine_, or, with the memory of his
+afternoon walks upon him, composing lines for his _Afara, or the
+Belles of Broadway_, and many another melancholy verse. Often he sat
+there until daybreak, then went on into Broadway again. He had a
+favorite early-morning stand on the Fulton Street side of St. Paul's
+Churchyard, and there, an hour before the town was stirring,
+soliloquized as he looked through the railings at the brown
+tombstones.
+
+On these same mornings, but a few hours later, another writer looked
+down on the same faded tombstones, for Ray Palmer was the teacher of a
+young ladies' school down Fulton Street beyond Broadway. He was young
+then, in his twenty-second year, in ill-health, and suffering under
+discouragements that would have been unendurable to a weaker-dispositioned
+man. As he looked from the school window into the churchyard he wrote
+a hymn which remained in his desk for several years, until it was
+published in quite an accidental manner by Dr. Lowell Mason, when he
+needed material for a book of church music which he had compiled. In a
+few years this hymn, _My Faith Looks Up to Thee_, was to be sung
+oftener than any other American hymn.
+
+The sights and the sounds of the busy city that were an inspiration to
+Ray Palmer always sent The Mad Poet in another direction,--on up
+Broadway to Leonard Street, turning down there two short blocks to
+Chapel Street, to the house where at that time he made his home. It
+was a dreary enough street and a dismal enough upper room, but there
+was a narrow window where the poet could look over the housetops in
+the midnight hour and watch the stars that he seemed ever to hold
+converse with. Or, if it was in the early evening, he had but to lean
+forward from his window to see the people going into the Italian Opera
+House on the next corner. The Italian Opera House had a great deal of
+attraction for The Mad Poet. Not that he went there often to attend
+the performances, but he liked to inspect it from his window height as
+though he caught a glimpse of the sorrows and disappointments
+connected with it. He had moved into the house in the year 1833--the
+year that the opera house was opened after it had been built for a
+company headed by Lorenzo Da Ponte.
+
+This Da Ponte had come to America in 1805, having a record as an
+Italian dramatist, who had furnished libretti for Mozart's operas,
+_Don Giovanni_ and _Nozze di Figaro_. He was professor in Columbia
+College when he matured an idea for establishing a home for Italian
+opera in New York, a plan which led to the building of the opera house
+near which The Mad Poet lived. It opened splendidly with the singers
+of the Cavalier di Rivafinoli, but a short season ended Lorenzo Da
+Ponte's hopes.
+
+If The Mad Poet from his housetop could have seen what the next few
+years had in store, he would have beheld the aged dramatist dying at
+his home in Spring Street, close to Broadway, his body followed from
+there by his mourning friends--Halleck and Verplanck and Woodworth and
+some few others,--followed to the churchyard surrounding the nearby
+St. Patrick's Church; he would have seen the mark above the grave
+crumbling away, leaving nothing to point the spot where Da Ponte lay
+buried with his dreams and his hopes. But no inspiration hinted any of
+these things to McDonald Clarke, and once, in speaking of Da Ponte, he
+said that there at least was a man who had lived long unrewarded but
+had attained his ambition at last.
+
+For nine years after The Mad Poet went to the Chapel Street house his
+Broadway walks continued, his dress each year growing more shabby, his
+eye more downcast, and his verse more melancholy. Then one day he was
+seen close by his favorite stand near the Churchyard of St. Paul's,
+acting so strangely that he was thought to be intoxicated. Next
+morning he awoke to find himself a prisoner in a vagrant cell, and the
+shock to his sensitive nature sent him, a madman indeed, to the
+Blackwell's Island Asylum, where in a few days he died.
+
+Years after, the author of _Glimpses of Home Life_, Emma C. Embury,
+whose home was in Brooklyn, told of a knoll in Greenwood Cemetery by
+the side of a little lake where the oak-trees shaded a modest tomb on
+which there were some lines of verse. They were lines written by
+McDonald Clarke. The tomb is there yet, still shaded by oaks that have
+grown sturdier with the passing years, and the grave by the lake is
+the grave of The Mad Poet.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+Those Who Gathered about Poe
+
+
+When New York was a much younger city than it is, when it was well
+within bounds on the lower part of the island of Manhattan, long
+before there was a thought that it would overspread the island, jump
+over a stream and go wandering up the mainland, overleap a river and
+go spreading over another island to the sea,--long before the time
+when these things came to be, there lay scattered in several
+directions on the island of Manhattan and dotting the rolling country
+land beyond, several tiny villages. These were Harlem, and Yorkville,
+and Odellville, and Bloomingdale, and Chelsea, and Greenwich. The last
+was the hamlet closest to the city. Quaint and curious, it spread its
+scattered way along the Hudson River where houses had been set up
+according to the needs and vagaries of men on roads natural and
+unplanned. When the city grew larger and finally swept around
+Greenwich Village, the roads becoming city streets, the village
+continued a labyrinthian way, where strangers wandered and were lost
+before they knew it.
+
+[Illustration: On Bloomingdale Road near 75th St. in Poe's time]
+
+In the very core of this old-time Greenwich section and at the very
+place where the streets are so tangled, so irregular, so crooked, so
+often no thoroughfare, so winding that they seem to be seeking out the
+old farmhouses which they led to in early days, there is a pretty
+little playground for children. This Hudson Park is an open spot with
+green lawns and marble walks and a tall iron fence surrounding it;
+quite a model park with everything about fresh, and new, and modern.
+It is so very new and so very neat and so very clean that one would
+not look there for old-time flavor. But curiously enough one thing
+about it seems out of tone. On the green lawn is a monument old and
+faded which, in an effort to match it with its natty surroundings, has
+been set upon a base of glistening white marble. The monument is a
+sort of key for the antiquarian, for without it this playground in its
+spick-and-span newness might not be readily identified as the old St.
+John's Burying-Ground, where once stood the accumulated tombstones of
+more than fourscore years, until they were swept away and buried as
+deep as those whose memories they marked. A new generation tramples
+in and romps over the new park, with no knowledge or thought of what
+is below the surface.
+
+The graveyard of St. John's was a quiet, restful place in a quiet,
+restful locality in the year 1837, when Edgar Allan Poe had a habit of
+wandering through it. In that year Poe lived within a few steps of the
+burial-ground in a modest wooden house that was numbered 113 Carmine
+Street. He was then in his twenty-eighth year, had published three
+volumes of poems, and had written some short stories and criticisms.
+He had but just given up the editorship of the _Southern Literary
+Messenger_ at Richmond, a position he had secured through the
+friendship of John P. Kennedy, who had been his friend in his early
+struggles in Baltimore and who was to continue a friend to him through
+all his life. In 1832 Poe had first met him, when Kennedy was writing
+_Swallow Barn_. Afterwards Kennedy wrote _Horseshoe Robinson_ and
+other books before abandoning literature for politics and, in time,
+becoming Secretary of the Navy.
+
+[Illustration: The House in Carmine Street]
+
+So Poe came to New York, and with him Virginia, his child wife, who
+was already marked a victim of consumption, and there in the Carmine
+Street house they lived. Sometimes she walked with her sombre-faced
+husband through the nearby burying-ground, but more often she sat at
+an upper window from which she could watch him on his ramble. In the
+same house lived William Gowans the bookseller of Nassau Street; and
+there Poe did work for the _New York Quarterly Review_; there also he
+finished _The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_.
+
+In another house, some little distance away but in a direct course up
+Carmine Street, in Sixth Avenue close by Waverley Place, Poe lived for
+a short time, but long enough to write _The Fall of the House of
+Usher_ and some magazine work, when he went to Philadelphia to _The
+Gentleman's Magazine_, edited by William E. Burton, the famous
+comedian. Oddly enough, when Burton died years afterwards, he found a
+resting place in the obscure St. John's Burying-Ground.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. RICHARD HENRY STODDARD.
+2. JOHN JAMES AUDUBON.
+3. WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.
+4. BAYARD TAYLOR.
+5. EDGAR ALLAN POE.
+6. ROBERT FULTON.]
+
+It was not until 1844 that Poe returned to New York, and during the
+years of his absence several writers with whom he was to become
+acquainted on his return had forged their literary way. There was Seba
+Smith, more generally known as "Major Jack Downing," from the
+humorous papers which he wrote under that name, and who about this
+time was writing the romance in verse called _Powhatan_. There was
+William Ross Wallace, the lawyer and magazine writer, who in after
+years was to be known through his poem of _The Liberty Bell_. There
+was the Congregational clergyman George B. Cheever making his way,
+having resigned his first pastorate, at Salem, Massachusetts, where he
+had been imprisoned for libel on account of his temperance sketch
+_Deacon Giles's Distillery_. There was Robert H. Messinger, known
+through his Horatian ode, _Give Me the Old_, his fame daily expanding
+in fashionable and literary circles. There was Edward Robinson,
+Professor in the Union Theological Seminary, just returned from a tour
+of exploration in Palestine with Rev. Eli Smith, publishing _Biblical
+Researches in Palestine_. And there was Isaac McLelland, whose verse
+was as good as his sportsmanship. These were some few of the men who
+were first to recognize the genius of the poet.
+
+Poe returned to New York the wiser for his experience with _The
+Gentleman's Magazine_ and with _Graham's Magazine_, but having failed
+to establish _The Stylus_, a proposed publication of his own, which
+during all his life was to be a vision of Tantalus, just beyond his
+grasp. He returned rich in experience, strong in adversity, poor in
+pocket. There was no glorious opening for him, and finally he accepted
+a sub-editorship on the _Evening Mirror_, grinding out copy for
+several hard-working hours each day.
+
+The _Evening Mirror_ was a newly started publication, but its
+interests were so entwined with others that its history stretched back
+something more than twenty years from the day when Poe first occupied
+a desk in the office. Going back these one and twenty years, the
+better to understand the atmosphere in which Poe worked, to the spring
+of 1823, the time is reached when George P. Morris and Samuel
+Woodworth joined forces and opened an office for the publication of
+the _New York Mirror_ at 163 William Street. Morris was a young man
+then, but already gave strong evidence of the decided character he was
+to develop as an eminently practical printer and successful writer of
+songs--a man of such unusual personal magnetism that well-nigh every
+man who walked towards him a stranger walked away from him a friend.
+The eight years which followed the starting of the _New York Mirror_
+saw many changes; saw Morris becoming more and more popular as a
+writer of songs; saw him publishing the memorable _Woodman, Spare
+that Tree_, that was to make his name known over the land; saw
+Woodworth withdraw from the _Mirror_, and that publication
+strengthened and starting anew when Morris drew to the enterprise
+Theodore S. Fay and Nathaniel P. Willis; saw Fay going abroad in a few
+years as Secretary of Legation at Berlin, in which city he was to live
+out most of his life.
+
+N.P. Willis was a young man, too, in those early days of his
+association with Morris. He had given up the _American Monthly
+Magazine_ at Boston to devote his energies to the _New York Mirror_.
+In the year that he became associated with Morris, 1831, he went
+abroad at a salary of ten dollars a week, hoping to add strength and
+diversity to the paper by a series of letters. In London, poor and
+struggling, he managed to introduce himself into the fashionable set
+at that time presided over by Lady Blessington, and he came to be the
+adoration of all the sentimental young ladies in that set. There was a
+daintiness about his dress, a suggestion of foppishness in the
+arrangement of his blond hair, trifles about him which suggested the
+dandy and the idler; but withal there was a terrific capacity for work
+under the smooth outside. His letters to the _Mirror_ and other papers
+did much for the refinement of literature and art, and, indirectly,
+for the manners of the times. He was in America again in 1836,
+bringing with him an English lady as a bride,--the Mary for whom the
+country place Glen Mary at Owego was named, where he wrote his
+delightful _Letters from under a Bridge_. He was again in Europe in
+1839, soon starting _The Corsair_, and back to America in 1844, to
+join his friend Morris (the _Mirror_ by this time being defunct) in
+the starting of a daily paper which took the name of the _Evening
+Mirror_. From this on Willis lived an active social-literary life,
+singing of Broadway with the same facileness as he sang of country
+scenes. He came to be a grave and patient invalid, living happily with
+his second wife as he had with his first, and ending his days at
+Idlewild,--his home on the Hudson.
+
+It was with the newly started _Evening Mirror_ that Poe became
+connected on his return from Philadelphia, and it would seem that if
+he ever had prospects bright to look forward to it was with the
+fair-minded, business-like Morris and the gentle-hearted Willis. But
+when Poe had continued with them a brief six months even that gentle
+restraint proved too much. The _Evening Mirror_ did not last long
+after his going, though this had little to do with its failure. Then
+the indefatigable Morris, with Willis, started the _Home Journal_ at
+107 Fulton Street, which continued into the twentieth century, and is
+now known under its changed title of _Town and Country_.
+
+[Illustration: Where Poe wrote "The Raven"]
+
+While Poe was working on the _Mirror_ he lived with his frail wife
+Virginia and her mother, Mrs. Clemm, in Bloomingdale Village. It was a
+village indeed then, and about the scattered houses were broad roads
+and shaded lanes and clustering trees. The house in which Poe lived
+was on a high bluff beside a country road which is now Eighty-fourth
+Street, the house standing (as the thoroughfares run now) between
+Broadway and West End Avenue. It was a plain, square, frame dwelling
+with brick chimneys reaching high above the pointed roof, kept by Mrs.
+Mary Brennan, and Poe rented rooms of her. Two windows faced towards
+the Hudson, and he could sit and looking through the trees catch a
+silvery glimpse of the river. Here he wrote _The Raven_ and _The Imp
+of the Perverse_. From here he sent _The Raven_ to the _American
+Review_ at 118 Nassau Street, where it was published over the pen name
+of "Quarles"; and he was still living here when the poem was reprinted
+in the _Evening Mirror_, for the first time over his own name.
+
+[Illustration: POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM.
+
+(From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.)
+
+Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.]
+
+It had come to be the summer of 1845 when Poe left the _Evening
+Mirror_ for the long black desk in lower Nassau Street where he helped
+Charles F. Briggs conduct the _Broadway Journal_. Briggs was the
+matter-of-fact "Harry Franco," a journalist of great ability who in
+another ten years was to edit _Putnam's Magazine_ from 10 Park Place.
+More than one of Poe's friends said that the combination of Harry
+Franco and the poet must assuredly bring forth great literary results
+and financial success. But the partnership did not work at all well.
+In a very short time Poe bought out his partner's interest through an
+arrangement with Horace Greeley and moved the office of the paper into
+Clinton Hall. But the _Broadway Journal_ under the management of Poe
+was less of a success than it had been under Briggs and Poe, and the
+poet retired from it in the first month of 1846.
+
+This Clinton Hall in which Poe had his office was a substantial
+building at the southwest corner of Nassau and Beekman streets. Temple
+Court now stands on the site. A second and a third building of the
+name have arisen in Astor Place, the second having been remodelled in
+1854 from the Astor Place Opera House, the scene of the
+Forrest-Macready riots. The present building, tall and heavy-looking,
+is the home of the Mercantile Library, as each Clinton Hall has been
+in its turn, and still retains the name first given to it in 1830,
+when Governor De Witt Clinton presented a _History of England_ as a
+nucleus for the library.
+
+About the time when Poe was with the _Broadway Journal_ he moved into
+a house not a great many steps from Broadway, in Amity Street, since
+renamed West Third Street. Here amid surroundings marked by a
+simplicity due less to simple tastes than poverty Poe lived and wrote
+by the side of the delicate wife who was wasting away before his eyes.
+Here he penned the _Philosophy of Composition_, by which he would make
+it appear that _The Raven_ was not a product of inspiration, but the
+work of calm reason and artistic construction,--a theory which no one
+seems to have accepted. Here, too, he wrote _The Literati of New
+York_, a series of papers that appeared in _Godey's Lady's Book_, and
+were the sensation of the hour in literary circles. Their criticisms
+were severe and impassioned, and one of the criticised, believing
+himself ill-treated and his writings unjustly abused, sought
+vindication. His answer entirely overlooked the libel laws and he was
+promptly sued for damages by Poe. This was Thomas Dunn English, a
+young man then twenty-four years old, who a few years before, in 1843,
+had been asked by N.P. Willis to write a poem for the _New Mirror_.
+The poem was written and sent to Willis with the suggestion that he
+either print it or tear it up as he thought best. Willis printed it,
+and though the writer came to be known as a poet, author, physician,
+lawyer, and statesman, the best known of his achievements were these
+verses of _Ben Bolt_.
+
+In the spring of 1846, when the poet's wife grew more feeble, her
+brilliant eyes more brilliant, and her pallid look more unearthly, Poe
+moved out into the country to a little village called Fordham in
+Westchester County. This was then far out from the city, a secluded
+spot with rocky heights from which a view could be had of country
+lanes and broad sweeps of meadow where farmers worked in the fields.
+Since then the open landscape has given way to the regularity of city
+streets and buildings.
+
+Not a great distance from the railroad station still stands the house
+where Poe lived; such a plain, low wooden building that those that
+have grown up around it seem to be shouldering it out of the way, and
+the widening and improving of streets have pushed it somewhat aside
+from its original position. But there the dingy little house still
+stands with its veranda, where Poe walked in the night just outside
+the sitting-room windows,--walked and dreamed out his _Eureka_. There
+are the door and the dwarf hallway. Inside, to the right, is the room,
+with its meagre furniture, much of which was purchased with the
+proceeds of the suit against Thomas Dunn English, where Poe received
+the friends who remembered him in his hours of illness, of poverty,
+and distress. In a room towards the front lay the dying wife on her
+straw bed, covered with the poet's coat and clasping the
+tortoise-shell cat closely to her wasted form. Up the stairs is the
+attic chamber, with its slanting roof, where Poe worked, with the cat
+at his elbow; where after his wife's death he penned a dirge for her
+in the exquisite _Annabel Lee_; where he wrote the first draught of
+_The Bells_, which he was to revise and complete while on his lecture
+trip to Lowell. Next to it is the room where slept Mrs. Clemm, his
+more than mother.
+
+So many memories cling to this home of Poe that those who search for
+substantial literary reminders have made it a visiting shrine, much to
+the dismay of landowners who hold to the strong belief that
+historic old houses are well enough as curiosities, but are
+inconvenient things when they stand in the way of money-making
+improvements.
+
+[Illustration: THE BATTERY IN 1830.
+
+(From a drawing by C. Burton.)]
+
+After passing through these rooms and with the memory of Poe strong
+upon you, walk away along the street remembering that in Poe's time it
+was a delightful country road. Stroll towards the Harlem River as he
+wandered many a moonlight night, his brain busy with the deep problems
+of _The Universe_. After a time you will pass on to the High Bridge,
+that carried the pipes of the Croton Aqueduct over the river,--this at
+least unchanged since his day. Walk over the path there, high above
+the water, and visit the lonely spot where the suggestion came to Poe
+for that requiem of despair, the mystic _Ulalume_.
+
+In the little wooden house at Fordham Poe lived, weak and lonely and
+poor, after the death of his wife, making daily visits to her nearby
+grave,--the grave that is there no longer. He was cared for by
+Virginia's mother for something more than two years. Then in the June
+of 1849 he left Fordham. Before the end of the year he was dead.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+At the Close of the Knickerbocker Days
+
+
+A bustling, energetic, but provincial city was New York between the
+years 1830 and 1840, the last days of the Knickerbockers. After 1840
+it changed greatly, speeding rapidly on in the making of a metropolis.
+Looking back now it is plain that the progress of enlargement went
+steadily on year by year, but then the changes came on imperceptibly
+enough.
+
+To any one who knows the great metropolis of this twentieth century,
+it will seem remarkable that Hanover Square was the place where
+merchants and jobbers most did congregate, and that the business part
+of the city (and that really meant all the town in those times) lay
+all below Canal Street. Beyond that was the country, crossed by sand
+hills, watered by many rivulets, traversed by roads that led to the
+country places of the wealthy or to popular wayside taverns. The main
+thoroughfares looked wider than they do now, for they were far less
+crowded, although there were busses, and coaches, and drays, and many
+other vehicles of a variety that would look quite odd on the streets
+of this day, and in fact anywhere except in old prints, for they
+became extinct many a day ago. There were no surface roads, no
+elevated roads, no clanging electric cars, no bicycles, no motor
+carriages, no thousand and one conveniences of comfort and confusion
+that inventive genius and modern methods have called forth. To be sure
+the first street railroad in the world had just been projected and
+the cars were about to run through the streets, but this was not as
+yet established.
+
+The architectural appearance of the city was more meagre, more
+uniform, far more picturesquely simple. There were wooden houses,
+squat and irregular, and there were brick houses, low and solid; there
+were no great towering structures to make one crane the neck to see
+the top. It was a city where provinciality stared out at every corner,
+a city which has been swept so entirely away that what is left of it
+lingers only in odd nooks and corners and back streets where even the
+oldest New Yorker has lost sight of it, and where visitors spend many
+hours seeking out old-time curiosities in the byways of the
+metropolis.
+
+[Illustration: Museum at the north end of the Park
+
+1825]
+
+The larger buildings of those days, the ones to catch the eye of a
+stranger, are all memories now, and it is a difficult matter to say
+even where they stood with any degree of certainty. There was Masonic
+Hall in Broadway and Pearl Street, with its great chamber in imitation
+of the Chapel of Henry VIII., that was quite the pride of the town,
+and indeed looked upon as the most elegant reception-room in detail
+and appointment to be found in America. Close by, on the other side of
+the way, was Contoit's Garden, a delightful resort, where could be had
+the finest of ices and cakes. Farther on the Apollo dancing-rooms were
+a Mecca for the youth of the town. Opposite the lower end of City
+Hall Park was Scudder's, the first museum in the city, the forerunner
+of Barnum's, filled to overflowing with curiosities of earth and sea
+and air. Across the way, on the opposite side of the park, was the
+Park Theatre with its broad white front and its record as the chief
+playhouse of the city, although there were hosts of admirers and
+patrons of the Old Bowery, and of the National in Leonard Street, and
+of the Olympic in Broadway, where Mitchell was established as a great
+favorite. Out beyond the city was Niblo's Garden, newly established
+and a real rural retreat; near to it, over on the Bowery Road, was the
+old Vauxhall, fast losing caste as a place of outdoor amusement. In
+Nassau Street the Middle Dutch Church still stood, its silvery bell
+sounding over the city in which Sunday was a day set apart for
+religious observance and had not come to be a day of merrymaking.
+
+[Illustration: THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830.]
+
+[Illustration: Niblo's Garden]
+
+It had come to be very near the end of the Knickerbocker days in this
+quiet city where brimstone matches and india-rubber overshoes had just
+been introduced,--indeed, it was close upon the year 1840,--when the
+Astor House was a new structure talked about all over the land as a
+wonderful palace. On the ground floor of this hotel John R. Bartlett
+kept a well stocked book-shop, and not a day but it was much visited
+by the literary folk of the town, for he was the friend of all bookish
+people. He himself was a quiet, scholarly man, and it was there in his
+shop, when his many friends left him leisure for work, that he
+arranged the greater part of his _Dictionary of Americanisms_, by
+which his name is remembered far better than by his historical
+records,--remembered when the fact that he was Secretary of State in
+Rhode Island is quite forgotten if it was ever widely known.
+
+One of the familiar figures in Bartlett's book-shop was a keen-eyed,
+spectacled man who walked with quite a noticeable limp. This was
+Charles Fenno Hoffman, a notable man of his time, whose song,
+_Sparkling and Bright_, was on everybody's tongue. Thirty-four years
+of his life were behind him, years that were full to overflowing. He
+was a New Yorker in the full meaning of the term, and many of the
+events of his active life had centred about the little book-shop. His
+birthplace was only eight blocks away, there where the structure of
+the Elevated Road throws its shadow over Greenwich Street at its
+crossing with Rector. Those interested searchers who have visited the
+house where Washington Irving boarded close by this same corner will
+find the house where Hoffman was born nearby it. Thoughts of Irving
+and Hoffman entwine themselves naturally and closely, for Hoffman's
+half-sister was that Matilda who was affianced to Irving and whose
+early death shadowed his whole life.
+
+Just around the corner from Bartlett's shop Hoffman went to school at
+Columbia College, where the present Park Place now wends its way from
+the river to Printing House Square. After leaving college he studied
+law, but soon gave up that profession to become the associate editor
+of the _American_ as the commencement of a literary career. In 1833 he
+founded the _Knickerbocker_ magazine, and while conducting it enjoyed
+the intimate fellowship of Harry Franco, William Cullen Bryant, Lewis
+Gaylord Clark, William L. Stone, the brothers Duyckinck, Frederick S.
+Cozzens, Park Benjamin, John L. Stephens, and a great many others in
+the same field of writing.
+
+All this was behind him when he became a familiar figure in Bartlett's
+shop; and more, too, for he had worked with N.P. Willis on the
+_Mirror_, and had travelled far in the wild West despite an accident
+in his youth which had crushed his leg between a boat and the wharf,
+leaving him a life-long cripple. In this western journeying he
+gathered material for _A Winter in the West_ and _Wild Scenes in
+Forest and Prairie_. He had already written _Vanderlyn_, and now in
+the book-shop was daily discussing his plans for _Grayslaer_. No hint
+came to the minds of those who listened to his witty talk in idle
+hours at the book-shop that in another ten years he would be taken
+from his last city home in Greene Street to live out the remaining
+thirty-four years of his life in the asylum at Harrisburg, Pa., a
+mental wreck.
+
+It was Hoffman who introduced Lewis Gaylord Clark to the book-shop.
+Clark had been associated with him on the _Knickerbocker_ magazine,
+and it was Clark who continued that publication for many years in the
+office on Broadway, just south of Cortlandt Street. To the office very
+often went his twin brother, Willis Gaylord Clark, editor of the
+Philadelphia _Gazette_, who contributed his now long-forgotten verse
+to his brother's magazine almost to the day of his death.
+
+It was quite natural that John L. Stephens should make Bartlett's
+book-shop a headquarters while he was in town, for Bartlett and he
+were firm friends of years' standing, and their minds ran along in
+very much the same historical groove. Many a story the famous
+traveller recounted to his friend and to the others who were gathered
+there, and his presence was eagerly looked for. He had been to Egypt
+and had written from there letters that were published in the
+_Knickerbocker_ when Hoffman was at its head. He had been to Arabia,
+to Poland, and to half a dozen other countries, and had written of his
+travels with a straightforward directness that was very much like his
+clear ringing talk. His visits to the book-shop happened years before
+he became interested in the Panama Railroad, for when this project
+came to his hand he devoted so much of himself to the building of the
+road across the Isthmus that he gave little time to writing.
+
+Another man who lingered in the book-shop more than any of the others
+was a sort of _protégé_ of Clark's, since Clark had in a great
+measure discovered him. His name was Frederick S. Cozzens, a wine
+merchant, and almost every afternoon he walked from his place around
+the next corner in Vesey Street, the second block below Broadway. It
+was Clark who recognized him as a humorist long before any one else
+appreciated him. His merry conversation was a delightful incident in
+the book-shop years and years before he moved to Yonkers and was then
+a great deal talked about as the author of the _Sparrowgrass Papers_.
+
+This book-shop was a veritable treasury of literary secrets, for if
+there was to be anything new in the literary world it was sure to be
+spoken of there before it was rumored about anywhere else. In this way
+the book-shop was first to hear of the publication of that journal of
+books and opinions, _Arcturus_, for Evert A. Duyckinck was one of the
+_habitués_ there. This is the author who, seven years later, with his
+brother George was to start the publication of _The Literary World_;
+and these are the brothers Duyckinck who while editing this
+publication collected material and wrote their _Encyclopædia of
+American Literature_, which gave them fame long after both were dead.
+
+The publication of literary periodicals was in the air that year of
+1840, and the little book-shop, being a literary world unto itself,
+heard of all of them in turn before public announcement was made.
+James Aldrich, who four years before had given up a prosperous
+business for a writer's career, projected his _Literary Gazette_, in
+which most of his poems afterwards appeared; and Park Benjamin, rather
+a newcomer in the town, it having been only three years since he
+transferred his _New England Magazine_ to New York under the title of
+the _American Monthly Magazine_, the same year established _Our New
+World_. He was a pleasant, affable man, and his companions at
+Bartlett's place thought much of the author of _The Old Sexton_.
+
+William Cullen Bryant lived in New York through these last days of
+Knickerbocker life and still lived there when these times were looked
+back upon as a period of great good-fellowship. He arrived in the city
+a young man, scarcely known, but he lived to be old, still a citizen,
+so entwined with the literary, social, and business interests that
+innumerable places can be pointed out to-day as bearing closely upon
+the poet's life and suggesting many reminders of himself and his work.
+
+In the far down-town, in Broadway at the Pine Street corner, these
+memories start. At that corner, in a building long gone now, when
+Bryant was quite a stranger in the city, he edited the _New York
+Review and Athenæum_, in which his own poem, _Death of the Flowers_,
+was published, and in which Halleck's _Marco Bozzaris_ first appeared.
+In his office there Bryant often talked with Percival and with
+Hillhouse, and there he discussed with Verplanck and Sands what manner
+of verse he would contribute to the newly started _Talisman_ magazine.
+
+Up Broadway a little farther, at the Fulton Street corner, is the
+publication office of the _Evening Post_, a building which more than
+any other in New York should call forth thoughts of Bryant, for he was
+the editor of that newspaper for two-and-fifty years. When he joined
+the staff in 1826, in two years succeeding Coleman as editor and
+remaining so until his death, the _Evening Post_ had its office in
+William Street, near Pine. But Bryant spent many years of his
+editorial life in the Broadway building, and one of its attractions,
+now pointed out to all visitors, is the poet's window on an upper
+floor where he sat at his desk, that was always stacked high and
+negligently with all manner of useless papers and rejected
+manuscripts, and looked over the city to the south as he worked.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET, LOOKING
+TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800.]
+
+Standing beside this window there are memories of other men than
+Bryant to be called up, for here remembrance of many of his associates
+comes vividly to mind. There was William Leggett, the poet's friend
+and business companion, the brilliant journalist who wrote _Tales of a
+Country Schoolmaster_, and who worked beside Bryant from 1829 to 1836.
+With thoughts of him come those of Parke Godwin, who joined the
+_Evening Post_ staff the year after Leggett left it, who as long as
+the poet lived was his close friend, and who, marrying Bryant's
+daughter Fanny, wove closer year by year the relations that bound
+them. There are memories, too, of John Bigelow, who occupied an
+editorial chair on the _Post_ for a dozen years after 1849.
+
+Going still farther up Broadway in search of Bryant reminders, you
+walk past the Post-Office and over the stretch of pavement made
+historic by the personal encounter between the poet and William L.
+Stone. This happened in 1831, and Stone, then editor of the
+_Commercial Advertiser_, was not at all friendly to Bryant. The two
+met there on the parkside, just opposite where Philip Hone lived, and
+Hone, looking from his window, saw the encounter. Sitting down he
+immediately wrote of it in the diary which is such a perfect
+reflection of the city's history during the first half of the
+nineteenth century.
+
+Those were the days when Stone was collecting his information
+concerning the Indians which he afterwards utilized to such advantage
+in _The Life of Joseph Brant_, _The Life of Red Jacket_, and kindred
+books.
+
+Keeping on up Broadway to Leonard Street, thence over across town
+three blocks west to 92 Hudson Street, the stroller comes to a
+warehouse that has been reared above the home where Bryant lived when
+he became editor of the _Evening Post_ and from which he often walked
+around the corner to 345 Greenwich Street to make an evening call on
+his near neighbor and friend J. Fenimore Cooper.
+
+On a little farther, up Varick Street this time, past the old Chapel
+of St. John's, lingering in its stately age quiet and dignified amid
+the unwholesome neighbors that have grown up around it. On the very
+next block, close by Canal Street, there is a red brick house with
+stone steps, and here Bryant lived after his removal from Hudson
+Street.
+
+This same Varick Street leads straight north for half a mile until it
+touches Carmine Street, and in the second block of that thoroughfare
+is the house of age-worn brick that was the poet's "home in Carmine
+Street," of which he spoke so often and so affectionately.
+
+From this point, a walk due east straight across town to the Bowery is
+as direct a route as could be found to the house where Bryant boarded
+in Fourth Street near the Bowery. It was here he entertained the
+friendly Unitarian clergyman, Orville Dewey, and discussed poetry with
+him. Here too he began the acquaintance with his fellow-lodger, Parke
+Godwin, without a thought that Godwin would one day be his son-in-law,
+without a thought that they would walk side by side through a literary
+life for close upon half a century.
+
+Still on up-town, this time to Union Square. Between that green spot
+and Irving Place in Fifteenth Street, you come upon the home of the
+Century Club in its early days, when it was the chief place in America
+for the entertainment of men of letters. This club, founded by Bryant,
+was presided over at various times by Bancroft, Verplanck, and men
+whose names are equally well remembered. Bryant was the president when
+he died. The club now has a sumptuous home in Forty-third Street near
+Fifth Avenue.
+
+Last home of all of Bryant in New York is the brownstone house next to
+the College of St. Francis Xavier, in Sixteenth Street. Here he lived
+during the last years of his life when he was not passing the long
+spring and summer months at his well-beloved Cedarmere at Roslyn, Long
+Island, which had been his favorite abiding place since 1843. It was
+in this Sixteenth Street house that he wrote his last lines of
+verse--on the birthday of Washington; it was here that he died.
+
+One more structure not a great distance away calls up strongly the
+memory of Bryant. In Fourth Avenue at Twentieth Street is picturesque
+All Souls' Church, which has been there since 1855. Built of brick
+trimmed with Caen stone, planned in the form of a Greek cross, it was
+the first example of the Byzantine style of architecture in America.
+It was to have a tall, square, tower-like steeple, but this was never
+built. To this church the body of Bryant was taken, and there in the
+presence of all literary New York, and while the whole city mourned,
+Dr. Bellows, who had been his long-time friend, preached his funeral
+sermon.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+Half a Century Ago
+
+
+Like many a landed estate, like many a quiet village, like many a
+battle-ground, like many a winding and historic road, like so many
+other places of interest of which the island of Manhattan has been the
+scene in days agone--Minniesland is not easy to locate. Relentlessly
+and remorselessly the great masses of brick and mortar have forged
+ahead in their furtherance of the city's growth, seeking a level as
+they spread, dominating the island, levelling the hills, and
+stretching over valleys until the surface of the land is altered
+beyond all knowing. Minniesland is one of the almost buried districts
+of the great city. Its last surviving relic, a square ornamental
+structure, is the one token that it ever existed. Now that the town
+has surrounded this building, and streets have cut through and
+mutilated the first plan of the district, this house may be found
+standing where One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street slopes down to the
+Hudson River. Enter it; pass through its ancient halls, and, standing
+on its porch, blot from the mind the spot as it is and reconstruct it
+as it was half a century ago.
+
+Fifty years ago the city was far away there to the south, and this
+house, miles and miles away up-country, was at the edge of a forest
+stretching down the hillside to the river. There were other farmhouses
+around it. To the north was the mansion where Colonel Morris had lived
+before the Revolution; where Madame Jumel in later days had married
+Aaron Burr. To the south was the square frame building, close by a
+clump of thirteen trees, where Alexander Hamilton had lived and where
+his widow stayed on after his death.
+
+Forgetting for a moment these old-time surroundings of the house by
+the forest edge, turn to the building itself, and imagine at the
+window a man sitting. He has long hair and clear blue eyes. He is
+painting at a small easel and working in quite a wonderful manner, for
+he is ambidextrous. He stops in his work and looks over the trees
+towards the Hudson. If that ever-moving river recalls to him his past
+life, John James Audubon, ornithologist, is reviewing a strange and
+adventurous career in many countries, full of losses, of suffering, of
+changes, of perils. He thinks of himself as a boy wandering through
+the dense, hot wilds of San Domingo; as a youth hard at his art
+studies in Paris under the master David; as a man at his father's
+country place on the Schuylkill, failing utterly and absolutely when
+he goes into business, and letting his father's fortune slip away from
+his nerveless grasp. He remembers, too, his marriage, and how his wife
+followed his restless career with unchanging love and remained always
+a balance-wheel to his impetuosity. He recalls how, through all the
+changes of that early and unsettled life, the naturalist-love born in
+him when he roamed the tropical home of his youth was always strongest
+in his nature, and was constantly cropping out in his mania for
+collecting beautiful things that were quite worthless from a
+commercial point of view, just as it was shown in his personal
+appearance; for his manner of dressing, always with his hair falling
+over his shoulders, marked him as a man regardless of conventionality,
+a man so bound within the circle of his own thoughts that he had
+little time or inclination to peek out and see which way the world was
+moving.
+
+[Illustration: Audubon's Home
+
+156th St. and N. River]
+
+Audubon had passed through the hardest struggles of his life, had
+travelled in England, in France, in Scotland, arranging for the
+publication of his bird pictures, that remarkable work which set his
+memory apart; he had succeeded in his life's object, and at the close
+of 1840 had come here to this forest hillside by the Hudson, built
+the house on the estate Minniesland, named in honor of his wife, made
+it a luxurious abode, and there gathered his friends about him.
+
+With this home of Audubon there is associated a memory of the early
+days of the telegraph. When Samuel F.B. Morse built the first
+telegraph line to Philadelphia, he had it strung across the river from
+Fort Lee to the basement of Audubon's house, and there he received the
+first telegraphic message ever sent to the island of Manhattan. Here
+Audubon lived, wrote, and painted until even his rugged strength was
+worn out. He worked until those clever ambidextrous hands lost the
+cunning to work out the forms his active brain could still conceive.
+The day came, in 1851, when he died, fortunately before any great
+change had come over the beauties of Minniesland. The peacefulness of
+Trinity Cemetery, which takes in part of the Audubon farm, is still
+faintly reminiscent of the scene of the ornithologist's later life,
+and there, close by the old house, is the grave of Audubon, and upon
+his tomb are sculptured the birds he loved so well, now keeping watch
+over him.
+
+[Illustration: Clement C. Moore's House
+
+Chelsea]
+
+While Audubon worked in his out-of-town retreat, another scholar and
+writer lived farther down the island towards the city. Clement C.
+Moore lived in a little district of his own called Chelsea Village,
+now merged into the city by so deft a laying out of streets that there
+is little irregularity at the point where town and village met. A bit
+of the old village remains exactly as it was in the General
+Theological Seminary, and the block on which it stands, Twentieth to
+Twenty-first streets, Ninth and Tenth avenues, is still called Chelsea
+Square. Clement C. Moore inherited from his father, Bishop Benjamin
+Moore, a large tract of land along the river near the present Chelsea
+Square, and gave the land on which the seminary was built to that
+institution. He himself lived in a house which his father had occupied
+before him and which stood on the line of the present Twenty-third
+Street on the block between Ninth and Tenth avenues. It was a very old
+building, renowned for the fact that General Washington had stopped
+there one afternoon when he had his headquarters in the city. Clement
+C. Moore was a professor in the General Theological Seminary, and
+while there compiled the first Greek and Hebrew lexicons ever
+published in this country. But it is not by reason of his learned
+books or his philanthropy that his name is best recalled, but by a
+poem which he wrote for his children and of which the world at large
+might never have known but that it was sent without his knowledge and
+published in an up-State paper. This poem, the Christmas classic of
+_The Visit of St. Nicholas_, begins with "'T was the night before
+Christmas," and its simple yet merry jingle and delightful
+word-pictures have endeared it to all children since his time and will
+endure to please many more to come.
+
+All that there was of literary New York half a century ago centred
+about Anne C. Lynch. She established a circle, a gathering which
+increased or fell off in numbers as men and women of brains came and
+went. This was the first near approach to a _salon_ in this country.
+In the early days of her coming to the city, Miss Lynch lived in a
+neat-appearing brick house in Waverly Place, just off Washington
+Square. She moved elsewhere from time to time, the literary coterie
+moving about as she moved. At the height of her success, in 1855, she
+married the Italian educator, Vincenzo Botta, then in his second year
+in New York and occupying a professorship of Italian literature in the
+University of New York. The receptions of Mrs. Botta flourished and
+were as popular as had been those of Miss Lynch. Her writings, too,
+went on, and her most widely known work, the material for which she
+gathered during her intimate personal association with many authors,
+the _Handbook of Universal Literature_, was written when she lived in
+Thirty-seventh Street, a few doors west of Fifth Avenue.
+
+In the early years of Anne C. Lynch's receptions, one of her intimates
+was Caroline M. Kirkland, the friend of Bayard Taylor. Mrs. Kirkland,
+who had just returned after a residence in Michigan, sought her advice
+before she published _Forest Life_, which was the second of her
+descriptions of the sparsely settled region where she had spent three
+years of her life. The intimacy between these two continued for years,
+indeed until Mrs. Kirkland died, in 1864, stricken with paralysis
+while under the strain of managing a great sanitary fair during the
+Civil War.
+
+Through Mrs. Kirkland, Lydia M. Child was introduced at the Lynch
+receptions, when she was associated with her husband in conducting the
+_National Anti-Slavery Standard_. She had been a writer since her
+youth, having published her first book, _Hobomok_, in 1821. Her works
+had been much read, but lost much of their popularity after she
+published the first anti-slavery book in America, in 1833, under the
+title _An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_. She
+ever remained prominent as an abolitionist, but because of her
+opinions lost caste as a writer of novels. But Miss Lynch cared little
+what opinions any one held so long as they really had opinions and
+would stand by them, and Mrs. Child was welcomed to her home until she
+left the city, in 1844, to spend the rest of her life in Wayland,
+Massachusetts.
+
+Very often Edgar Allan Poe attended the Lynch receptions, taking with
+him his delicate wife, who seemed to get better for the moment when
+she saw her husband the centre of a notable gathering. For even here
+Poe had quite a following of his own. It was on one of these evenings
+that he gave it as his opinion that _The Sinless Child_ was one of the
+strongest long poems ever produced in America. This poem was just
+then making a great stir and on this special evening had been the
+subject of much discussion. The author was present, as she usually was
+where writers congregated, for the beautiful and witty Elizabeth Oakes
+Smith carried enthusiasm and inspiration wherever she went. She found
+time to form part of many a circle, even though her days were well
+filled, for she assisted her husband, "Major Jack Downing," in his
+editorial work. For many a year before she finally retired to
+Hollywood, South Carolina, she held her place as the first and only
+woman lecturer in America.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. W.D. HOWELLS.
+2. J.G. HOLLAND.
+3. RICHARD GRANT WHITE.
+4. BRANDER MATTHEWS.
+5. WILLIAM WINTER.
+
+From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble; courtesy of Mr. W.E.
+Benjamin.]
+
+Another dear friend of Poe's might usually be found at these
+receptions. "Estella" Lewis, the poet, lived in Brooklyn and held
+there quite a court of clever people. The time came when she was,
+indeed, a friend in need to Poe in his time of dire necessity at
+Fordham. It was at her Brooklyn home that he read _The Raven_ before
+it was published, and Estella Lewis was the last friend he visited
+before he left New York on the journey south which ended in his death.
+
+On the "Poe nights," too, Ann S. Stephens was usually to be found at
+Miss Lynch's. She became a much-read novelist, writing _Fashion and
+Famine_ and _Mary Derwent_. On these nights, too, might be seen
+Margaret Fuller, the transcendentalist. She had left her Massachusetts
+home to take her place with Horace Greeley as literary editor of the
+_Tribune_, and between whiles devoted herself to charitable work in an
+effort to better the social condition of the poor of the metropolis.
+During most of her stay she lived in a locality much changed since her
+time, near where Forty-ninth Street touches the East River. A
+picturesque spot it was, overlooking the green stretches of
+Blackwell's Island, in the midst of suburban life. Her stay in New
+York was short. After a year or so she went to Europe and in Italy
+married the Marquis Ossoli. She was on her way back to America, in
+1850, a passenger in the merchantman _Elizabeth_, when the ship was
+wrecked off Fire Island and she perished with it.
+
+To this group of writers also belongs Frances Sargent Osgood. While,
+somewhere about the year 1846, the country was ringing with her
+praise, she was living the secluded life of an invalid, with her
+husband, in what was then becoming a fashionable neighborhood, 18 East
+Fourteenth Street. Once, in 1845, she had met Poe, had been instantly
+attracted by him, and became thereafter his staunch admirer,
+expressing her opinion persistently whenever opportunity offered. He,
+on his part, appreciated her poetic genius, and more than once
+referred to the scrupulous taste, faultless style, and magical grace
+of her verse. And several of his poems are addressed directly to her.
+
+There was a young man named Richard Henry Stoddard who frequented the
+Lynch receptions. He had worked for six years in a foundry learning
+the trade of iron moulder, and writing poetry as he worked. By the
+year 1848 he was beginning to make a name for himself, and his first
+volume of poems, _Footnotes_, had just been published. At Miss Lynch's
+house he met Miss Elizabeth Barstow, herself a poet, and some time
+later visited her at her home in Mattapoisett. This led to their
+marriage. Early in the year of his meeting with Miss Barstow, Stoddard
+made the acquaintance of Bayard Taylor. Taylor had already travelled
+on foot over Europe, had crystallized the results of these travels in
+_Views Afoot_, and was then working under Greeley on the _Tribune_, as
+one of the several editors. Side by side with him worked that
+pure-hearted and thoughtful man who had been the instigator and
+supporter of the Brook Farm experiment, George Ripley, who wrote the
+_Tribune's_ book criticisms.
+
+_Views Afoot_ was the most popular book of the day when Stoddard
+walked into the _Tribune_ office and introduced himself to the author,
+finding him very hard at work in a little pen of a room. This was the
+start of a friendship which lasted for thirty years, and was only
+broken in upon by death.
+
+A few days after, Stoddard called upon Taylor, who then lived in
+Murray Street, a few steps from Broadway. Charles Fenno Hoffman, who
+occupied rooms in the same building, was then beginning to show signs
+of the mental breakdown which was to cloud the last thirty-four years
+of his life. But Hoffman was prosperous and occupied luxurious
+quarters on the ground floor, while Taylor, despite the popularity of
+his book, led a life of hard work and struggle. He was ill paid for
+his services on the _Tribune_, as Greeley did not believe in high
+salaries, and he lived up four flights of stairs in a sort of
+two-roomed attic. There Stoddard went almost every Saturday after his
+labors at the iron foundry, and there the friendship strengthened week
+by week; there Taylor taught Stoddard to smoke; there they discussed
+books and writers, and there wrote poetry together. There Taylor wrote
+_Kubleh_ and _Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, and, too, the song that won
+for him a prize when Barnum invited the entire country to a
+competition in writing a song for Jenny Lind. Taylor was visited by a
+great many friends, and with them the youthful Stoddard became
+acquainted. Sometimes to the house in Murray Street came Rufus W.
+Griswold, author of _Poets and Poetry of America_, _Prose Writers of
+America_, and kindred works. He had been one of Taylor's early
+advisers. The diplomatist and playwright, George H. Boker, often made
+one of the party at this time, when his tragedy, _Calaynos_, was being
+acted with great success at Sadlers's Wells Theatre in England.
+Another visitor was Richard Kimball, the lawyer-author, then
+enthusiastically putting the finishing touches to _St. Leger_.
+
+These days of changing fortunes were the most romantic of Taylor's
+career. Many other places in the city are associated with him, one a
+house near Washington Square, where he lived for some years and wrote
+among other things the _Poems of the Orient_. His last city home was
+at 142 East Eighteenth Street. There he wrote _Deukalion_, and from
+there he started out, after being dined and fêted, on his mission as
+United States Minister to Germany. In England he met Carlyle. In Paris
+he had a "queer midnight supper" with Victor Hugo. In Germany, though
+he was then quite an ill man, he threw himself into official business
+with an energy that his constitution, worn by years of persistent hard
+work, would not warrant. Before the end of the year, the friends in
+America who had wished him farewell in April, congratulating him that
+he had attained an honor that he prized, knew that he lay dead in
+Berlin.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Two Famous Meeting-Places
+
+
+Looking backward to the days before the Civil War is to bring into
+review a host of men who then walked through the city in which time
+has wrought so many changes, and to bring to the mind's eye familiar
+streets, but so altered that they seem like unknown highways.
+
+There was the Battery, with its old-time appearance, when the green
+grass of summer was not cast into deep and continual shade by an
+overhanging device of modern travel, and when its broad walk was a
+promenade, the like and popularity of which was not to be found
+elsewhere. There stood squat Castle Garden, half in the water and half
+on the land, of nondescript style of architecture, suggesting a means
+of defence against an invading force and giving cause for wonder as to
+how it ever came by the flowery half of its name.
+
+Wandering swiftly through the lower end of the town, memory recalls
+old houses whose begrimed fronts bore the markings of a good hundred
+years. There, by the Bowling Green, was where Washington and Putnam
+had their headquarters. Farther up-town a hotel arose where Franconi's
+Hippodrome had been. Still farther along was Murray Hill, where there
+was just enough elevation of land to account in a measure for its
+name. Still farther on were country places beyond the town--beyond the
+town then, but now come to be the very heart's core of the metropolis.
+
+But of all the points of interest none comes fresher to the mind than
+Broadway. And though they have all changed, some swept away, some
+freshened up, others reconstructed into modern ways and made to keep
+pace with the progress of the passing days, no change or series of
+changes have brought about such complete renewal, if the reminiscent
+eye of the mind is to be believed, as has come to Broadway. Blotting
+out for the moment the city's chief canyon of travel as it is to-day,
+with its brobdingnagian structures, and its sights and sounds of
+business and pleasure and enterprise, let the highway of old take its
+place. As far back as fifty years ago, residences were gradually
+metamorphosed into business hives, but they managed to retain much of
+their conservative appearance for a long time, as though a battle were
+being waged as to whether Broadway should be a place of homes or a
+business thoroughfare. Trees by the curb line waved their branches in
+angry protest against commercial encroachments and in opposition to
+great glaring signs that blurted out business announcements in a
+bold-faced manner, that argued they had come to stay. While the
+Broadway of to-day gives the impression of narrowness because of the
+height of the sky-scrapers that border it, it then looked exceedingly
+wide. It was never a quiet street, for a continual procession of
+omnibuses and other vehicles on business and pleasure bent streamed
+along it. Among the popular resorts at which they often stopped was
+Charles Pfaff's, where beer was sold. There of an evening met the
+literary Bohemians of the city, in the days when Bohemia really
+existed and before the word had well-nigh lost significance and
+respect. They were gifted men with great power of intellect, who
+spoke without fear and without favor and whose every word expressed a
+thought. They were real men and they made the world a real place, a
+place without affectation, without pretence, without show, without
+need of applause, and without undue cringing to mere conventional
+forms. These were the characteristics of the Bohemians, and Bohemia
+was wherever two or three of them were gathered together. Bohemia was
+the atmosphere they carried with them, and whether upon the streets or
+in Pfaff's cellar they were at home. Pfaff's happening to be a
+convenient gathering-place, and beer happening to be the popular brew
+with most of them, they gathered there.
+
+It is a tradition that the place came into favor through the personal
+efforts of the energetic Henry Clapp. He was attracted to it, so the
+tradition runs, soon after he started the _Saturday Press_ in 1858,
+that lively publication, so brilliant while it lasted, so soon to die,
+and at its death having pasted on its outer door an announcement which
+read: "This paper is discontinued for want of funds, which by a
+coincidence is precisely the reason for which it was started." Whether
+it is true or not that Clapp was the first to call attention to the
+resort that came to be the meeting-place of the Bohemians, matters
+little. It grew to be such a meeting-place, and it is quite true that
+the members of the staff of the _Saturday Press_ did more than any one
+else to give it a name that has lived through the years.
+
+It is hard to locate Pfaff's place now. Go to look for it on the east
+side of Broadway, above Bleecker Street three or four doors, and you
+will be disappointed, for there is nothing to locate--just a
+conventional business house. Take an idle hour and picture it in
+memory; that will be better. Thinking of it now it is quite natural to
+contrast it with modern eating- and drinking-houses, famous for their
+mirror-lined walls, richly carved appointments, carpeted floors, and
+flashing electric lights. Pfaff's was a hole beneath the surface of
+the street, ill-lighted, ill-ventilated, ill-kept. But it is far
+better to read George Arnold's poem embodying the spirit of the
+cellar, and recording how the company was "very merry at Pfaff's."
+This poet was one of the merry company in the days when he wrote
+regularly for the columns of _Vanity Fair_. He has himself said that
+some of the poems were written in the late hours after an evening
+spent in the underground Broadway resort with Fitz-Hugh Ludlow, with
+Mortimer Thomson, the famous "Q. K. Philander Doesticks," and a score
+of like writers. It was Arnold, too, who caused an hour of sadness
+when he took there the story of the death of Henry W. Herbert, who was
+well known to all the habitués. They all knew his life's story; they
+had heard him tell of his father, the Dean of Manchester and cousin to
+the Earl of Carnarvon; they had heard him tell how he had come to New
+York from London, how he had taught in the school in Beaver Street
+near Whitehall, and how in that little school he had partly written
+his historical romance _Cromwell_, and how he had mapped out some of
+the others that followed it. They knew, too, how he had, under the
+name of "Frank Forester," produced such books as _American Game in its
+Season_, _The Horse and Horsemanship in North America_, and become
+famous by novel-writing. He was the first to introduce sports of the
+field into fiction in America. Some of his comrades knew the
+unhappiness that had crept into his life, but even his dearest friends
+were not prepared for the news which Arnold brought one day, that
+"Frank Forester" had died by his own hand in a room on the second
+floor of the Stevens House, there in Broadway by the Bowling Green,
+not more than the throw of a stone from the place where, in his early
+days in New York, he had taught school.
+
+Another friend of George Arnold's, who sometimes spent hours with him
+at Pfaff's, was George Farrar Browne, but few will remember him by
+this name, while many will recall that which he made famous, Artemus
+Ward. He had passed his apprenticeship as a printer and reporter, had
+made the country ring with the name of the lively but illiterate
+showman, and was in New York trying to carry _Vanity Fair_ to
+success--a task which he could not accomplish.
+
+Another of the Pfaff company was Thomas Bailey Aldrich. This was at a
+time when he had editorial charge of the _Saturday Press_ after he had
+come from Portsmouth and served three years at his desk in the
+commission house of his rich uncle. Working over the books of the
+firm, his mind was often busy with themes outside of the commission
+house, all tending towards a literary career.
+
+Another lounger at Pfaff's whose name has become famous in the world
+of letters was William Winter, who was sometimes a visitor. Howells
+went there on his first visit to New York and dined with Walt Whitman,
+and there were others--Bayard Taylor and Stedman among them.
+
+[Illustration: The University Building]
+
+It was only a few minutes' walk from Pfaff's to Washington Square,
+and there could be found the substantial-appearing University
+building, where Theodore Winthrop had his office and where he wrote
+_Cecil Dreeme_ and _John Brent_. From that gloomy building he was
+called to the war, and to his home there friends brought the details
+of his death--shot through the heart while rallying his men in an
+attack which he had helped to plan at the action of Big Bethel in
+June, 1861. At the time of his death he was scarcely known as a
+writer, and it was not until the publication of _Cecil Dreeme_ that
+the world realized that it had lost an entertaining story-teller as
+well as a brave soldier when Winthrop fell.
+
+Among others who served in the Seventh Regiment of New York, of which
+Theodore Winthrop was a member, was Fitz-James O'Brien, the erratic
+and brilliant journalist, whose tale of _The Diamond Lens_ was his
+best contribution to the literature of the day. The only literary man
+of the Seventh to return to New York was O'Brien's friend, Charles
+Graham Halpine, who resigned, and lived to make his name famous by his
+humorous sketches of army life supposed to have been penned by
+"Private Miles O'Reilly."
+
+The name of Winthrop naturally suggests the name of Dr. John W.
+Draper, who was associated with the University of New York for more
+than thirty years. His technical writings made his name known over the
+world, and he spent many years of his life in the dingy old University
+building working on a _History of Intellectual Development in Europe_.
+
+[Illustration: The Studio Building in West 70th St.]
+
+Fitz-James O'Brien has told of how he was once sent by a newspaper to
+see Henry T. Tuckerman, in a big brown building in Tenth Street. This
+studio building, just east of Sixth Avenue, is there yet, and the room
+on the second floor where O'Brien had his talk with the scholarly
+essayist and critic may be seen. At that time Tuckerman was writing
+_The Criterion; or, The Test of Talk about Familiar Things_. In this
+large room overlooking the street it was his custom on Sunday evenings
+to entertain his literary friends.
+
+Another home where there were Sunday-evening gatherings for many years
+was that of Alice and Phoebe Cary. This house, one of the few
+residences remaining in a neighborhood otherwise given up to business
+structures to-day, is numbered 53 on East Twentieth Street. Here the
+Carys lived when they made their home in this city, coming from their
+Ohio birthplace to a wider field of activity. You can walk now into
+the little parlor where the gatherings were held. You can go into the
+room above, where Phoebe worked--when she found time; for in the
+joint housekeeping of the sisters Phoebe often said that she had to
+be the housekeeper before she could be the poet. In that room she
+wrote, after coming from church one Sunday, the hymn which has made
+her name famous and well-beloved, _Nearer My Home_.
+
+[Illustration: 53 EAST 20th St.]
+
+There on the same floor was the favorite work-corner of Alice, and
+sitting close by the window, where she could look out into the street,
+she wrote many of her poems of memory and of domestic affection. In
+this room, too, she died.
+
+To recite the names of those Sunday-evening callers would be to recall
+all the writers in the city at that time, and to mention all those
+prominent in the world of letters who came from out of town. James
+Parton was often one of the company, in the days when he was arranging
+the material for his _Life of Horace Greeley_, material gathered from
+those who had known the great editor during his early days in New
+Hampshire and Vermont. Greeley himself dropped in occasionally, and
+also another member of the _Tribune_ staff, Richard Hildreth, the
+writer from Massachusetts, who had been associate editor of the Boston
+_Atlas_ and who in after years was United States Consul at Trieste.
+
+Herman Melville was invited to the Twentieth Street house at the time
+when he was at work on his _Battle Pieces_, and could look back on
+years of adventure by land and by sea, and on the hardships that had
+supplied him with the material from which to write so much that was
+odd and interesting. At one of these Sunday-night receptions, at which
+Alice Cary introduced him first, Melville told the company, and told
+it far better than he had ever written anything (at least so one of
+his hearers has recorded), the story of that life of trial and
+adventure. He began at the beginning, telling of his boyhood in New
+York, of his shipping as a common sailor, and of his youthful
+wanderings in London and Liverpool. In true sailor fashion, and with
+picturesque detail, he spun the tale of his eighteen months' cruise to
+the sperm fisheries in the Pacific, and held his hearers' close
+attention while he related the coarse brutality of his captain, who
+had forced him to desert at the Marquesas Islands. Then he traced his
+wanderings with his one companion through the trackless forest on the
+island of Nukahiva and of his capture by the Typee cannibals. He
+related how there was little hope in his heart that he could ever
+escape, but that he still held tight to life and his courage did not
+desert him; how with the thought of death before him by night and by
+day he yet hourly studied the strange life about him and garnered
+those facts and fancies which he afterwards used to such advantage in
+his successful _Typee_. It was a thrilling tale to listen to, in
+strange contrast to his humdrum later life when he was an employee of
+the New York Custom House. When you go to see the home of the Cary
+sisters, walk on a few blocks to East Twenty-sixth Street, and there
+see the house numbered 104. On this site stood Melville's house, where
+he lived for many years and where, when he had come to be an old man,
+he died.
+
+Mary L. Booth was another visitor to the home of the Cary sisters, and
+with them she talked over a great many details of her _History of the
+City of New York_, which she was at that time energetically engaged
+upon. And there this future editor of _Harper's Bazar_ met Martha J.
+Lamb when Mrs. Lamb came to the city from Chicago. A talk between the
+two had much to do with directing Mrs. Lamb's thought into historical
+lines, and led to her publishing, some seventeen years later, her
+_History of New York_, and to her assuming, in 1883, the editorship of
+the _Magazine of American History_. Mary L. Booth used to tell very
+amusingly how she had once met Samuel G. Goodrich, then famous as
+"Peter Parley," at the little house in Twentieth Street, and how
+disappointed she had been in listening to his talk and not finding it
+as impressive as it should have been as coming from the author and
+editor of more than one hundred and fifty volumes. This incident
+occurred within a year or two of "Peter Parley's" death.
+
+That popular writer of juvenile tales, Alice Haven, was also a visitor
+of the Cary sisters. Her early life had been spent in Philadelphia,
+where she had been married to J.C. Neal, but after his death she had
+removed to New York and made her home there. She was very much
+interested in the work of St. Luke's Hospital, which was not a great
+distance away, and often came to talk with Phoebe Cary about that
+institution. Miss Cary herself was interested in it because of her
+regard for its founder, Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg, who had
+written a hymn that was a great favorite of hers, _I Would Not Live
+Alway_. Dr. Muhlenberg was the rector of the Church of the Holy
+Communion, and in 1846 on St. Luke's Day after his sermon he suggested
+to his congregation that of the collection that was about to be taken
+half should be put aside as the commencement of a fund which should be
+used to found an institution for the care of the sick poor. The fund
+started that day with thirty dollars, and that was the beginning of
+St. Luke's Hospital. It was not a great while before the actual
+hospital work was begun in a building at 330 Sixth Avenue, near
+Twentieth Street, and there had a home until the completion of that at
+Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street, where it remained until those
+quarters were outgrown, and in 1896 it removed to the new buildings on
+Cathedral Heights.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+Some of the Writers of To-Day
+
+
+There is little of old-time picturesqueness in the city of New York
+to-day, where buildings are too towering, too massive, too thickly
+clustered to offer artistic and unique effects. But a stroll about the
+homes of the writers of the city invests their rather commonplace
+surroundings with more than passing interest.
+
+In the older part of the town, the section that was all of New York a
+hundred years ago and is now the far down-town, there are many
+reminders of those friends whose books are on the most easily reached
+library shelf.
+
+To No. 10 West Street, that stands on the river front, Robert Louis
+Stevenson was taken by a fellow-voyager in 1879; here he stopped the
+first night he spent in America, and of this house he wrote in the
+_Amateur Emigrant_. From the waterside just at dusk, catching a dim
+outline of the varying housetops is to glimpse some old castle of
+feudal times. The lowest building in all this block is No. 10--a
+meagre, dingy, two-story structure that has come to be very old. The
+doors and windows seem to have been made for some other building, and
+to be trying to get back to where they belong, bulging out in the
+struggle and making rents in the house-front.
+
+[Illustration: No. 10 West St.]
+
+Crossing Battery Park to State Street, at No. 17 is the tall
+Chesebrough building that has sprung up on the spot where William
+Irving, brother of Washington, lived, and where the Salmagundi wits
+gathered sometimes in the evening. Two or three doors farther along is
+a survival of old New York which delights the eye, with its porticoes
+and oval windows, odd appearing and many-sided; a mansion when wealth
+and affluence clustered around the Battery. This is the scene of the
+first few chapters of Bunner's _Story of a New York House_. Around the
+corner and through the wide doors of the Produce Exchange, at the back
+of that building and literally hidden in the middle of the block, is
+an old street that seems to have lost its usefulness, a quaint and
+curious way full half a century and more behind the times, now bearing
+the name of Marketfield Street, but once called Petticoat Lane. It is
+no longer a thoroughfare, for in its length of half a block it has
+neither beginning nor end. Here is all that is left of the house in
+which Julia Ward Howe was born.
+
+Passing along Broad Street, where Edmund C. Stedman, the poet and
+financier, has an office close to Wall Street, you come in a few
+minutes to the Custom House. To enter that building is to get lost in
+a moment. Pass through the door into a veritable trackless wilderness
+of narrow black halls, with rooms that open in the most unexpected
+corners, and come after a while to the Debenture Room of old, and to
+the window near which Richard Henry Stoddard had his desk for close
+upon twenty years.
+
+Freed from the intricacies of the old building, continue the stroll
+up-town, and in Park Row, at No. 29, on the third floor, is found the
+old home of the _Commercial Advertiser_, where Jesse Lynch Williams
+worked, and wrote _A City Editor's Conscience_, and other stories. A
+little way farther on is the _Tribune_ building, where William Winter
+has his den, and under the same roof the room where Irving Bacheller
+conducted a newspaper syndicate before _Eben Holden_ was thought of.
+Then on again a few steps to the _Sun_ building and into the room,
+little changed from the time when Charles A. Dana sat there so many
+years, and, close by, the reporters' room where Edward W. Townsend
+worked, and wrote about _Chimmie Fadden_. There is a winding
+staircase, that the uninitiated could never find, leading into the
+rooms of the _Evening Sun_, where Richard Harding Davis "reported,"
+and where he conceived some of the Van Bibber stories. Directly
+across the street is the _World_ office, and looking from the
+windows, so high up that the city looks like a Lilliputian village,
+you have the view that Elizabeth Jordan looked upon during the ten
+years she was getting inspiration for the _Tales of a City Room_. Down
+narrow Frankfort Street is Franklin Square, the home of _Harper's
+Magazine_, where George W. Curtis established his Easy Chair in which
+he was enthroned so long, and which is now occupied by William Dean
+Howells.
+
+Cherry Street leads out of Franklin Square direct to Corlear's Hook
+Park. Half a hundred feet before that green spot is reached, in a
+squalid neighborhood of dirty house-fronts, ragged children, begrimed
+men, and slovenly women, there is a house numbered 426, above the door
+of which are the words: "I was sick and ye visited Me." Dwellers in
+the neighborhood know that this is a hospital for those suffering
+from incurable disease, but, beyond this, seem to know very little
+about it. It is the home of Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, the daughter of
+Nathaniel Hawthorne, who has given up her entire life to brighten many
+another. In the same block, but nearer to Scammel Street, which is
+next towards the south, Brent's foundry used to be in the days when
+Richard Henry Stoddard was an iron-worker and the friend of Bayard
+Taylor, whom he visited in Murray Street.
+
+From this far East Side to Washington Square is quite a distance, but
+stop half-way at Police Headquarters and the nearby reporters'
+offices. Any one there will be glad to point out the room where Jacob
+A. Riis worked so many years and wrote most of _How the Other Half
+Lives_, and from which he carried out his ideas for benefiting the
+city poor--carried them out so well that President Roosevelt called
+him New York's most useful citizen.
+
+[Illustration: Where "How The Other Half Lives" was written]
+
+In Washington Square the wanderer has much to think of in the literary
+associations recalled by this green garden that has blossomed from a
+pauper graveyard, and which has been written of by Howells, Brander
+Matthews, Bayard Taylor, Bunner, Henry James, F. Hopkinson Smith, and
+almost every writer who has brought New York into fiction.
+
+[Illustration: 146 Macdougal St.]
+
+From the square, stroll in any direction for definite reminders.
+Towards the south and around into Macdougal Street, at No. 146, there
+is a dingy brick house with a trellised portico, where Brander
+Matthews and his friends used to dine, and which James L. Ford made
+the Garibaldi of his _Bohemia Invaded_. Walk towards the east, past
+the site of the University building, and stand at the Greene Street
+corner, at No. 21 Washington Place, where Henry James was born.
+Towards the west a few steps into Waverly Place, at No. 108, is a
+squat red brick house where Richard Harding Davis wrote his newspaper
+tales. Across, at the corner, lived George Parsons Lathrop when he
+wrote _Behind Time_, and there his wife, Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, wrote
+_Along the Shore_. An historic site this house stands on, for it is
+where Stoddard and Taylor once lived together. A block to the north is
+old-time Clinton Place, which now, for modern convenience, recking
+not of memory or of sentiment, has become Eighth Street. There, to the
+left of Fifth Avenue, at No. 18, is where Paul du Chaillu wrote _Ivar
+the Viking_, and to the right the house opposite, covered from
+basement to eaves with green clustering vines, is the home of Richard
+Watson Gilder.
+
+[Illustration: 108 Waverly Place]
+
+It is only a question now of crossing half a dozen city blocks towards
+the east to wander into what was called the Bouwerie Village. Modern
+streets and modern improvements have so overridden the village of old
+that traces of it are few and difficult to find. Here in this
+district many a writer of New York has lived. At Fourth Avenue and
+Tenth Street still stands the house, known to all who lived there as
+"The Deanery," in which Miss Annie Swift kept boarders, and where the
+family of Richard Henry Stoddard lived during the last four years that
+Mr. Stoddard held his post in the Custom House. Here Stedman, and
+Bayard Taylor, and Howells were visitors, with scores of other
+writers; here Mrs. Stoddard wrote _The Morgensons_, and here Stoddard
+himself wrote _The King's Bell_, _Melodies and Madrigals_, and other
+poems. Not more than a block away, in the house numbered 118, Richard
+Grant White had his home when he wrote _The New Gospel of Peace,
+According to St. Benjamin_.
+
+[Illustration: Richard Grant White's Home]
+
+Around the corner in Third Avenue, at Thirteenth Street, is a tablet
+telling of the pear tree that Peter Stuyvesant brought from Holland,
+that grew and flourished on the edge of the Stuyvesant orchard for
+more than two hundred years. Within a stone's throw of the tree in the
+sixties, and while it yet bloomed, Stoddard lived with his friend
+Bayard Taylor, and here the _Life of Humboldt_ came from Stoddard's
+pen. Around another corner into Fourteenth Street and down a block to
+No. 224, Paul du Chaillu had apartments when he wrote _The Land of
+the Midnight Sun_; but the tree-filled yard and the vine-covered
+cottage next to it, on which the writer's window looked, are buried
+beneath a dwelling in the full flush of newness.
+
+In Fifteenth Street, just past Stuyvesant Park, is a really
+picturesque row of tiny houses that must have been there when
+Stuyvesant Park was very new indeed. They have balconies enclosed by
+iron fretwork, and the first in the row is especially dainty and
+attractive, and quite overshadowed by the lofty building that has
+grown up beside it. In this out-of-the-way corner the Stoddards lived
+for something more than a quarter of a century, and here they died,
+the brilliant son first, then Mrs. Stoddard, and finally Richard Henry
+Stoddard, in 1903.
+
+Along the parkside and around the corner to Seventeenth Street, No.
+330 was another interesting landmark until, quite lately, it was
+swept away. Brander Matthews lived there, and could look across the
+square to the gray towers of St. George's while he wrote the _French
+Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_. H.C. Bunner had quarters there
+when he wrote _A Woman of Honor_ and other stories of that period, and
+Richard Grant White was a long dweller there.
+
+[Illustration: Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died]
+
+Northward a few streets, on the south side of Gramercy Park, is the
+house of John Bigelow, writer of half a dozen important books, who
+fifty years and more ago assisted William Cullen Bryant in the
+editorial conduct of the _Evening Post_. Only a few steps away, in
+historic Irving Place, the ivy-covered house is where Mrs. Burton
+Harrison wrote _Sweet Bells out of Tune_, and on another block farther
+to the south the Lotus Club long had its home, the building now given
+over to commercial uses.
+
+[Illustration: Where the Author's Club was organized]
+
+In the short stretch of Fifteenth Street that leads from Irving Place
+to Union Square are two points closely associated with the literature
+of the city. One is midway the distance, the prosaic office of a
+brewer now, but once the home of the Century Club when Bancroft the
+historian was its president. The other is nearer to the square, with a
+tall iron fence, and a gateway not at all in keeping with the modern
+appearance of the street. Behind the tall fence is a bit of
+greensward, and beyond that a house quaintly unusual in appearance,
+seeming to shrink from sight in the shadows cast about it. This is
+where Richard Watson Gilder at one time lived, where Charles De Kay
+organized the Authors' Club, and where the Society of American Artists
+was formed.
+
+[Illustration: Horace Greeley's Home]
+
+Beyond Union Square there is in Eighteenth Street the house numbered
+121 where Brander Matthews lived for fourteen or more years, where he
+wrote many of his books, and where was held the first meeting to
+organize the American Copyright League. It was Professor Matthews who
+gave the dinner at which the unique society known as the Kinsmen came
+into being, at the Florence on the same street at number 105,--an
+apartment house in which Ellen Glasgow, Elizabeth Bisland, and Edgar
+Saltus have made their homes, and in which the widow of Herman
+Melville is now living.
+
+In nearby Nineteenth Street is still standing No. 35, a house where
+Horace Greeley lived, with William Allen Butler, the author of
+_Nothing to Wear_, for a next-door neighbor. Three blocks farther on
+is the big office building where Dr. Josiah Strong wrote most of _Our
+Country_, and where Hamilton W. Mabie has a study in the editorial
+rooms of _The Outlook_. A few steps farther in Twenty-second Street,
+at No. 33, Stephen Crane wrote part of _The Red Badge of Courage_ and
+worked on the daily newspapers. Close by in Fifth Avenue is the
+publishing house where the critic and essayist, William Crary
+Brownell, author of _French Traits_, and other works, spends his
+business hours. Around the corner in Twenty-third Street, on the top
+floor of another publishing house is the den of the energetic author,
+editor, and critic, Jeannette L. Gilder. Across Madison Square, at the
+Twenty-fifth Street corner, Edgar Saltus had apartments for some time,
+and just off Broadway in Twenty-seventh Street, at No. 26, Edgar
+Fawcett wrote _A Mild Barbarian_.
+
+On up Madison Avenue past Twenty-eighth Street is a brownstone
+dwelling with a luxuriantly blooming window garden, where James Lane
+Allen lives when he is in town and revises his writings. A few steps
+into the next thoroughfare the Little Church Around the Corner
+nestles in a populous district, and in the next block, just beyond the
+Woman's Hotel, Mrs. Burton Harrison has written many of her books. Two
+blocks away, in the _Life_ building, John A. Mitchell, founder of the
+paper, spends several working hours of each day.
+
+Going farther up-town in Park Avenue just beyond Thirty-sixth Street
+is a substantial building where Dr. Josiah Gilbert Holland wrote and
+where he died. In nearby Thirty-seventh Street hover memories of Parke
+Godwin, who married the daughter of William Cullen Bryant, and whose
+business and literary interests were closely entwined with those of
+his father-in-law. A few steps westward is the solemnly quiet Brick
+Presbyterian Church, where Dr. Henry van Dyke preached before he was
+called to Princeton. Turning into Forty-sixth Street, note a house
+distinguished from its neighbors by a doorway of wrought-iron, where
+John A. Mitchell did much of the writing of _Amos Judd_.
+
+[Illustration: The Beekman Mansion near 52nd St. [Transcriber's
+Note: should be 51st St.] East River]
+
+Across town, where Fifty-first Street touches the East River, is a
+street so short and so out-of-the-way that few New Yorkers have ever
+heard of it. It is called Beekman Place, and in it survives the memory
+of the old Beekman house which stood near by, and which in the days of
+the Revolution was used as a British headquarters. It was in the
+Beekman house that Nathan Hale rested his last night on earth. Here in
+this quiet spot Henry Harland lived in the eighties, when he was
+employed in the Register's Office and got up at two o'clock many and
+many a morning to write (under the name of Sidney Luska) some of his
+earlier books. The windows of his home looked out upon a beautiful and
+unusual city scene. Any one going now to where Fifty-first Street ends
+at an embankment high above the river may see it just as he saw it
+then--see the waves splashing on a rocky shore, with neither docks nor
+wharves nor factories to interfere; see a broad river; see a green
+island with stone turreted towers, and in the distance, forming a
+background, the irregular sky-line of the Brooklyn borough shore.
+
+Farther up-town to Central Park, and there on the south side is the
+mammoth apartment house close to Sixth Avenue, where William Dean
+Howells did much of his work; and on beyond the avenue, at No. 150,
+Kate Douglas Wiggin evolved _Penelope's Experiences_. Still on
+up-town, following the easterly side of the park, in Sixty-fourth
+Street, at No. 16, Carl Schurz lived, and in Seventy-seventh Street is
+the square house of stone where Paul Leicester Ford met such a fearful
+death.
+
+Crossing Central Park to the far west side, the journeyer comes to
+wide, tree-lined West End Avenue, and there at Ninety-third Street,
+almost upon the shores of the Hudson River, in a locality of beautiful
+homes, Brander Matthews, author of _Vignettes of Manhattan_ and _A
+Confident To-morrow_, lives and works. Returning down-town on the
+westerly side of the city, stop just beyond Amsterdam Avenue and
+Eighty-sixth Street before a house, colonial as to its doors and
+windows at least, the home of that distinguished naval officer and
+writer, Captain A.T. Mahan. On the nearest corner is the church where
+funeral services were held over Paul du Chaillu when his body was
+brought back from Russia. Down a few streets, John Denison Champlin,
+author and encyclopædist, has his home, in a yellow apartment house,
+and half a block along Seventy-eighth Street stands the terra cotta
+building occupied by Stedman before he moved to Bronxville. Down to
+Sixty-fifth Street now, a dozen steps or more west of Central Park,
+Edgar Fawcett conceived _A Romance of Old New York_, before going to
+Europe for an indefinite stay.
+
+[Illustration: Lawrence Hutton's House]
+
+In Thirty-fourth Street, midway between Seventh and Eighth Avenues,
+visit the solid little brick house, with green shutters and an air of
+dignity that proclaims it of another time. This has stood for three
+quarters of a century and at one time had no neighbors. There, until
+1898, when he went to Princeton, Lawrence Hutton gathered his
+collection of objects artistic from all parts of the world; there he
+kept his assortment of death masks; there he wrote and entertained his
+friends, authors, actors, men of different callings.
+
+[Illustration: De Kay's House--London Terrace]
+
+Let the last step be to that reminder of old Chelsea Village, in
+Twenty-third Street beyond Ninth Avenue, called London Terrace. The
+Terrace was built when Chelsea was really a village, and exists
+to-day long after the village has ceased to have an identity. One
+house in the row, No. 413, is particularly interesting, picturesquely
+and historically, carrying as its literary association the name of
+Charles De Kay, critic and author--a name of to-day and of the past as
+well, for he is the grandson of the poet, Joseph Rodman Drake.
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+A
+
+_Adventures of Captain Bonneville, The_, 102
+
+_Afara_, 139
+
+_Age of Reason, The_, 32, 84
+
+Aldrich, James, 179
+
+Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, 218
+
+Allen, James Lane, 247
+
+All Souls' Church, 188
+
+_Along the Shore_, 238
+
+_Amateur Emigrant_, 231
+
+_American_, 174
+
+American Copyright League, 245
+
+_American Game in its Season_, 216
+
+_American Monthly Magazine_, 154, 180
+
+_American Review_, 158
+
+_American Theatre, The_, 70
+
+_Amos Judd_, 249
+
+_Analectic Magazine_, 96, 112
+
+_An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_, 200
+
+"Ancient Club of New York," 110
+
+André, Major John, 55, 56
+
+_Androborus_, 37
+
+_Annabel Lee_, 164
+
+Apollo dancing rooms, 170
+
+_Arcturus_, 178
+
+_Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, 206
+
+Arnold, Benedict, House of, 56
+
+Arnold, George, 215, 216
+
+_Arthur Mervyn_, 78
+
+Astor House, 172
+
+Astor, John Jacob, 102, 123
+
+Astor Place Opera House, 160
+
+_Astoria_, 102
+
+_Atlantic Monthly_, 133
+
+Audubon, John James, 189-195
+
+Authors' Club, 245
+
+
+B
+
+Bacheller, Irving, 234
+
+_Backwoodsman, The_, 113
+
+Bancroft, George, 103, 186
+
+Barlow, Joel, 84
+
+Barstow, Elizabeth, 204
+
+Bartlett, John R., 172-180
+
+Bartlett's Book Shop, 172-180
+
+_Battle Pieces_, 224
+
+_Beauties of Santa Cruz_, 52
+
+Beekman House, The, 249
+
+_Behind Time_, 238
+
+_Bells, The_, 164
+
+_Ben Bolt_, 162
+
+Benjamin, Park, 175, 179, 180
+
+_Biblical Researches in Palestine_, 151
+
+Bigelow, John, 183, 243
+
+Bisland, Elizabeth, 246
+
+Bleecker, Eliza, 47-51
+
+Bleecker Street, 83
+
+Bloomingdale Village, 145, 157
+
+_Bohemia Invaded_, 238
+
+Boker, George H., 207
+
+Bonneville, Captain, 102
+
+Bonneville, Madame, 82, 83
+
+Books of New Amsterdam, 7
+
+Booth, Mary L., 227
+
+Botta, Mrs., 197, 199, 200
+
+Botta, Vincenzo, 198
+
+Bouwerie Village, 19, 22
+
+Bowling Green, 8
+
+Bradford's printing press, 27
+
+Bradford, William, 38, 57
+
+Bradford, William, tomb of, 25-29
+
+_Bravo, The_, 134
+
+Bread-and-Cheese Club, 131-133
+
+Brevoort, Henry, 110
+
+Brickmaking in New Amsterdam, 3
+
+Briggs, Charles F., 159, 160
+
+_British Prison Ship, The_, 53
+
+Broad Street, 7, 13, 31
+
+Broadway, 67
+
+_Broadway Journal_, 159
+
+Brook Farm, 205
+
+Brown, Charles Brockden, 77, 78-80
+
+Browne, George Farrar, 217
+
+Brownell, William Crary, 247
+
+Bryant, William Cullen, 132, 133, 174, 180-188
+
+Bunner, H.C., 243
+
+Burns's Coffee House, 99
+
+Burr, Aaron, 63, 190
+
+Burton, William E., 150
+
+Butler, William Allen, 246
+
+
+C
+
+_Calaynos_, 207
+
+Cary, Alice, 222-228
+
+Cary, Phoebe, 222-228
+
+_Cecil Dreeme_, 219
+
+Century Club, 186, 244
+
+_Champion of Freedom, The_, 130
+
+Champlin, John Denison, 252
+
+Cheever, George B, 151
+
+Chelsea Square, 195, 196
+
+Chelsea Village, 145, 195, 196
+
+Child, Lydia M., 199, 200
+
+_Chimmie Fadden_, 234
+
+Church Farm, 33
+
+Church in the Fort, 15, 20
+
+Church of the Holy Communion, 229
+
+_City Editor's Conscience, A_, 234
+
+City Hall, First, 8
+
+City Hall in Wall Street, 31
+
+City Hall Park, 48, 67, 108
+
+City Hall (Present), 75, 109
+
+City Hotel, 100, 128
+
+City Plan Commission, 109, 110
+
+Clapp, Henry, 213
+
+Clapp's _Almanac_, John, 27-29
+
+_Clara Howard_, 78
+
+_Clari, the Maid of Milan_, 74
+
+Clark, Lewis Gaylord, 175-178
+
+Clark, Willis Gaylord, 176
+
+Clarke, McDonald, 136-144
+
+_Clermont, The_, 109
+
+Clinton Hall, 159, 160
+
+Cobbett, William, 85
+
+Colden, Cadwallader, 38, 39, 42, 43
+
+Collect Pond, 22, 48
+
+Columbia College, 81, 116, 174
+
+Columbia University, 43
+
+_Columbiad_, 84
+
+_Commentaries on American Law_, 81
+
+_Commercial Advertiser_, 65, 183
+
+_Common Sense_, 82
+
+Common, The, 48, 49, 67
+
+_Complaint of New Netherland, The_, 10
+
+_Confident To-morrow, A_, 251
+
+_Conquest of Grenada_, 97
+
+Contoit's Garden, 170
+
+Cooke, George Frederick, 71, 72
+
+Cooper, James Fenimore, 125-136, 184
+
+Cooper, Susan Fenimore, 127
+
+Cornbury, Lord, 34, 35
+
+Corporation Library, 31
+
+_Corsair, The_, 155
+
+Cosby, Governor, 39-43
+
+Cozzens, Frederick S., 175, 178
+
+Crane, Stephen, 246
+
+_Criterion, The_, 222
+
+"Croaker Papers," 119
+
+Croegers, Tryntie, 15
+
+_Cromwell_, 216
+
+_Culprit Fay, The_, 121
+
+Curtis, George William, 235
+
+
+D
+
+Dana, Charles A., 234
+
+Dana, Richard Henry, 130, 131
+
+Da Ponte, Lorenzo, 141, 142
+
+Davis, Richard Harding, 234, 238
+
+_Deacon Giles's Distillery_, 151
+
+Dearman, 104
+
+_Death of the Flowers_, 181
+
+Debtors' Prison, 49-51
+
+DeKay, Charles, 245, 254
+
+De Lancey, Étienne, 99
+
+Dennie, Joseph, 77, 79, 80
+
+De Sille, Anna, 18
+
+De Sille, Nicasius, 11-19
+
+_Deukalion_, 208
+
+Dewey, Orville, 185
+
+_Diamond Lens, The_, 220
+
+_Dictionary of Americanisms_, 172
+
+_Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_, 112
+
+_Don Giovanni_, 141
+
+Downing, Major Jack, 150, 201
+
+Drake, Joseph Rodman, 103, 115-124
+
+Draper, Dr. John W., 220, 221
+
+Du Chaillu, Paul, 239, 241, 252
+
+Duke's Farm, 32
+
+Dunlap, William, 70, 71, 77
+
+_Dutchman's Fireside, The_, 113
+
+Duyckinck, Evert A., 175, 178, 179
+
+Duyckinck, George, 179
+
+Dyde's, 111
+
+
+E
+
+East River Park, 101
+
+_Eben Holden_, 234
+
+_Edgar Huntley_, 78
+
+Elgin Botanical Garden, 81
+
+_Elixir of Moonshine_, 139
+
+Embury, Emma C., 144
+
+_Encyclopædia of American Literature_, 179
+
+English, Thomas Dunn, 162, 164
+
+_Eureka_, 163
+
+_Evening Mirror_, 152, 156-159
+
+_Evening Post_, 181, 182
+
+Exchange Street, 13
+
+
+F
+
+Fairlie, Mary, 94
+
+_Fall of the House of Usher_, 150
+
+_Fanny_, 118
+
+_Fashion and Famine_, 202
+
+Fawcett, Edgar, 247, 253
+
+Fay, Theodore S., 154
+
+Federal Hall, 62
+
+_Federalist_, 62
+
+Fire of 1776, 54
+
+First almanac printed, 27-29
+
+First City Hall, 8
+
+First free school, 109
+
+First library, 31
+
+First museum, 171
+
+First newspaper, 38, 57
+
+First newspaper row, 57
+
+First night watch, 25
+
+First poet of New Amsterdam, 4-10
+
+First Poorhouse, 49
+
+First printing press, 27
+
+First street lighting, 25
+
+First Tammany Hall, 71
+
+First telegraphic message, 194
+
+Fitzroy, Lord Augustus, 41, 42
+
+_Footnotes_, 204
+
+Fordham, 162-166
+
+Ford, James L., 238
+
+Ford, Paul Leicester, 251
+
+Forester, Frank, 216
+
+_Forest Life_, 199
+
+Forrest-Macready Riots, 160
+
+Francis, Dr. J.W., 132
+
+Frankfort Street, 45, 46
+
+_French Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_, 243
+
+_French Traits_, 247
+
+Freneau, Philip, 47, 51-66
+
+Friendly Club, 77
+
+Fuller, Margaret, 202, 203
+
+
+G
+
+Gaine, Hugh, 58-60
+
+_Gazetteer_, Rivington's, 56
+
+General Theological Seminary, 195, 196
+
+_Gentleman's Magazine, The_, 150, 152
+
+Gilder, Jeannette L., 247
+
+Gilder, Richard Watson, 239, 245
+
+_Give Me the Old_, 151
+
+Glasgow, Ellen, 246
+
+_Gleanings in Europe_, 135
+
+_Glimpses of Home Life_, 143
+
+_Godey's Lady's Book_, 161
+
+Godwin, Parke, 182, 183, 186, 248
+
+Golden Hill, 48, 87, 88
+
+Golden Hill Inn, 88
+
+Goodrich, Samuel G., 227
+
+Gowans, William, 149
+
+Gracie's house, 103
+
+_Graham's Magazine_, 152
+
+_Grayslaer_, 175
+
+Greeley, Horace, 202, 205, 206, 224, 246
+
+Greenwich Village, 81-83, 145, 146
+
+Griswold, Rufus W., 207
+
+Grove Street, 84
+
+
+H
+
+Hackett, James H., 114
+
+Halleck, Fitz-Greene, 103, 115-124, 132, 138, 142
+
+Hall of Records, 49-51
+
+Halpine, Charles Graham, 220
+
+Hamilton, Alexander, 62, 191
+
+Hamilton Grange, 62
+
+_Handbook of Universal Literature_, 198
+
+Hanover Square, 57-59, 61
+
+Harland, Henry, 250
+
+Harlem, 145
+
+Harrison, Mrs. Burton, 244, 248
+
+"Harry Franco," 159, 174
+
+Haven, Alice, 228
+
+Hell Gate, 101
+
+Herbert, Henry W., 216, 217
+
+Hildreth, Richard, 224
+
+Hillhouse, James A., 128, 181
+
+_History of Intellectual Development in Europe_, 221
+
+_History of New York_, 227
+
+_History of the City of New York_, 227
+
+_History of the Five Nations_, 39
+
+_History, Rise, and Progress of the Arts of Design in
+the United States_, 70
+
+_Hobomok_, 199
+
+Hodgkinson, Thomas Hawkins, 120
+
+Hoffman, Charles Fenno, 173-176, 206
+
+Hoffman, Josiah Ogden, 95
+
+Hoffman, Matilda, 95, 174
+
+Holland, Dr. Josiah Gilbert, 248
+
+_Home Journal_, 157
+
+_Home, Sweet Home_, 74
+
+_Homeward Bound_, 136
+
+Hone, Philip, 132, 183
+
+Hoogh Street, 10
+
+_Horse and Horsemanship in North America, The_, 216
+
+_Horseshoe Robinson_, 149
+
+Hosack, Dr. David, 81
+
+_House of Night, The_, 52
+
+Houses of New Amsterdam, 2, 3
+
+Howe, Julia Ward, 233
+
+Howells, William Dean, 218, 235, 251
+
+_How the Other Half Lives_, 236
+
+Hudson Park, 146-148
+
+Huguenot Church, 32
+
+Hunter, Governor Robert, 35-38
+
+Hutton, Lawrence, 253
+
+
+I
+
+_Idle Man, The_, 131
+
+Idlewild, 156
+
+_Imp of the Perverse, The_, 158
+
+Independent Columbian Hotel, 94
+
+Irving, Ebenezer, 100
+
+Irving, John T., 104
+
+Irving, Peter, 92, 94, 109, 110
+
+Irvington, 104
+
+Irving, Washington, 87-105, 109-112, 115, 174
+
+Irving, Washington, birthplace of, 89
+
+Irving, William, 93, 107, 108, 110-112, 231
+
+Italian Opera House, 141
+
+_Ivar the Viking_, 239
+
+_I Would Not Live Alway_, 228
+
+
+J
+
+James, Henry, 238
+
+_Jane Talbot_, 78
+
+Jans Farm, Annetje, 32, 33
+
+_Jersey_, The prison ship, 53
+
+_John Brent_, 219
+
+_John Bull in America_, 114
+
+John Street Theatre, 55, 56, 90, 91
+
+Jordan, Elizabeth, 235
+
+_Judgment, The_, 128
+
+Jumel, Madame, 190
+
+Jumel Mansion, 190
+
+
+K
+
+Kean, Edmund, 137
+
+Kemble, Gouverneur, 110, 111, 113
+
+Kennedy, John P., 148, 149
+
+Kent, James, 77, 80, 81
+
+Kidd, Captain William, 24
+
+Kilmaster's School, 91
+
+Kimball, Richard, 207
+
+_King's Bell_, 240
+
+King's College, 43
+
+King's Farm, 32
+
+Kinsmen, The, 246
+
+Kip, Hendrick, 12, 18
+
+Kirkland, Caroline M., 198, 199
+
+Kissing Bridge, 22
+
+Knickerbocker Days, Close of the, 167-172
+
+_Knickerbocker History of New York_, 94
+
+_Knickerbocker_ Magazine, 174, 176, 177
+
+Knight, Madame Sarah, 33-35
+
+_Koningsmarke_, 113
+
+_Kubleh_, 206
+
+
+L
+
+Lafayette Theatre, 134
+
+Lamb, Martha J., 227
+
+La Montagne, Dr., 12
+
+_Land of the Midnight Sun, The_, 242
+
+_Last of the Mohicans, The_, 134
+
+Lathrop, George Parsons, 238
+
+Lathrop, Rose Hawthorne, 236, 238
+
+Lawson, James, 120
+
+"Lay Preacher, The," 79
+
+_Legend of Sleepy Hollow_, 103
+
+Leggett, William, 182
+
+Leisler, Jacob, 46
+
+_Letters from under a Bridge_, 155
+
+Lewis, Estella, 201, 202
+
+_Liberty Bell, The_, 151
+
+_Life and Voyages of Columbus_, 97
+
+_Life of Horace Greeley_, 224
+
+_Life of Humboldt_, 241
+
+_Life of Joseph Brant, The_, 184
+
+_Life of Mahomet_, 105
+
+_Life of Red Jacket, The_, 184
+
+_Life of Washington_, 105
+
+_Lion of the West, The_, 114
+
+_Literary Gazette_, 179
+
+_Literary Magazine and American Register, The_, 80
+
+_Literary World, The_, 179
+
+_Literati of New York, The_, 161
+
+London Terrace, 253
+
+Longfellow, Henry W., 97
+
+Longworth, David, 93
+
+Loockermans, Govert, 12
+
+Ludlow, Fitz-Hugh, 215
+
+Luska, Sidney, 250
+
+Lynch, Anne C., 197-204
+
+
+M
+
+Mabie, Hamilton W., 246
+
+Mad Poet, The, 136-144
+
+_Magazine of American History_, 227
+
+Mahan, Captain A.T., 252
+
+"Major Jack Downing," 150, 201
+
+_Marco Bozzaris_, 124, 181
+
+Martling's Tavern, 71
+
+_Mary Derwent_, 202
+
+Masonic Hall, 170
+
+Matthews, Brander, 238, 243, 245, 246, 251
+
+McLelland, Isaac, 152
+
+_Melodies and Madrigals_, 240
+
+Melville, Herman, 224-226
+
+Mercantile Library, 160
+
+Messinger, Robert H., 151
+
+Middle Dutch Church, 55, 171
+
+_Mild Barbarian, A_, 247
+
+Miller, John, 29, 30
+
+_Minerva, The_, 65
+
+Minniesland, 189, 194
+
+_Mirror, The_, 130
+
+Mitchell, John A., 248, 249
+
+Mitchill, Dr. Samuel, 94
+
+Moore, Bishop Benjamin, 196
+
+Moore, Clement C., 195, 196
+
+Moreau, Jean Victor, 61
+
+_Morgensons, The_, 240
+
+_Morning Chronicle_, 92, 109
+
+Morris, George P., 130, 138, 153, 154, 156, 157
+
+Morris House, 123, 190
+
+Morse, Samuel F.B., 194
+
+Muhlenberg, Dr. William Augustus, 228
+
+Murray Hill, 60
+
+Murray, Lindley, 60, 61
+
+Murray, Mrs., 60
+
+_My Faith Looks up to Thee_, 140
+
+
+N
+
+_Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_, 150
+
+_National Anti-Slavery Standard_, 199
+
+_National Gazette_, 64
+
+_Nearer My Home_, 223
+
+New Amsterdam, 2-6
+
+_New England Magazine_, 179
+
+_New Gospel of Peace, The_, 241
+
+_New Mirror_, 162
+
+Newspaper, First, 38, 57
+
+Newspaper Row, The first, 57
+
+New York before the Civil War, 209-212
+
+_New York Gazette_, 38, 58
+
+_New York Gazetteer_, 58
+
+New York in 1830, 167-172
+
+_New York Journal_, 58
+
+_New York Mercury_, 58
+
+_New York Mirror_, 153-156
+
+_New York Quarterly Review_, 149
+
+_New York Review and Athenæum_, 181
+
+Niblo's Garden, 171
+
+Night watch, The first, 25
+
+Noah, Mordecai M., 138
+
+_Nothing to Wear_, 246
+
+_Nozze di Figaro_, 141
+
+
+O
+
+O'Brien, Fitz-James, 220, 221
+
+Odellville, 145
+
+_Old Oaken Bucket, The_, 130
+
+_Old Sexton, The_, 180
+
+"Old Tom's," 118, 119
+
+_Oliver Goldsmith_, 105
+
+O'Reilly, Miles, 220
+
+_Ormond_, 78
+
+Osgood, Frances Sargent, 203, 204
+
+_Our Country_, 246
+
+_Our New World_, 180
+
+_Outlook, The_, 246
+
+
+P
+
+Paine, Thomas, 82-86
+
+Paine, Thomas, Grave of, 85, 86
+
+Paine, Thomas, House of, 83, 84
+
+Palmer, Ray, 139, 140
+
+Park Row, 68
+
+Park Theatre, 68, 72, 75, 77, 171
+
+Parton, James, 224
+
+Paulding, James Kirke, 90, 93, 103, 107-114
+
+_Paul Felton_, 131
+
+Payne, John Howard, 72-75, 97
+
+_Penelope's Experiences_, 251
+
+Percival, James G., 132, 181
+
+"Peter Parley," 227
+
+Petticoat Lane, 233
+
+Pfaff's, 213-218
+
+_Philosophy of Composition_, 161
+
+_Picture of New York_, 94
+
+_Pilot, The_, 128
+
+Pine Street, 32, 75, 76
+
+_Pioneers, The_, 128
+
+Poe, Edgar Allan, 145-166, 200-204
+
+Poe, Virginia, 149, 157, 162, 164
+
+_Poems of the Orient_, 208
+
+Poet, First, of New Netherland, 4-10
+
+_Poets and Poetry of America_, 207
+
+Poorhouse, First, 49
+
+_Portfolio, The_, 79
+
+_Powhatan_, 151
+
+_Prairie, The_, 134
+
+_Praise of New Netherland, The_, 10
+
+_Precaution_, 126
+
+_Prose Writers of America_, 207
+
+_Putnam's Magazine_, 159
+
+
+Q
+
+Queen's Farm, 32
+
+
+R
+
+_Raven, The_, 158, 161, 202
+
+_Red Badge of Courage, The_, 246
+
+_Red Rover, The_, 134
+
+Renwick, Jane, 96, 104
+
+Renwick, Professor James, 96, 132
+
+Revolution, New York during the, 54-56
+
+Reynold's Ale House, 117-119
+
+Richmond Hill, 63
+
+Riis, Jacob A., 236
+
+Ripley, George, 205
+
+_Rip Van Winkle_, 97
+
+Rivington, James, 58, 59
+
+Robinson, Edward, 151
+
+_Romance of Old New York, A_, 253
+
+
+S
+
+St. George's Chapel, 90
+
+St. John's Burying-Ground, 147, 148, 150
+
+St. John's Park, 125, 126
+
+_St. Leger_, 207
+
+St. Luke's Hospital, 228, 229
+
+St. Mark's Church, 22, 23
+
+St. Patrick's Church, 142
+
+St. Paul's Chapel, 62, 108
+
+_Salmagundi_, 41, 93
+
+_Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, 111
+
+Saltus, Edgar, 246, 247
+
+Sands, Robert C, 133, 181
+
+_Saturday Press_, 214, 218
+
+Schurz, Carl, 251
+
+Scudder's Museum, 171
+
+Second City Hall, 12
+
+Selyns, Henricus, 20-24
+
+Shakespeare Tavern, 120
+
+"Sign of the Bible and Crown," 58
+
+_Sinless Child, The_, 200
+
+_Sketches in Switzerland_, 135
+
+Smith, Rev. Eli, 151
+
+Smith, Dr. Elihu Hubbard, 76-79
+
+Smith, Elizabeth Oakes, 201
+
+Smith, Seba, 150
+
+Smith, William, 43, 44
+
+Society Library, 31
+
+Society of American Artists, 245
+
+_Southern Literary Messenger_, 148
+
+_Sparkling and Bright_, 173
+
+_Sparrowgrass Papers_, 178
+
+_Spy, The_, 126, 134
+
+Stadt Huys, 8
+
+Stedman, Edmund C., 218, 233, 253
+
+Steendam, Jacob, 4-10
+
+Stephens, Ann S., 202
+
+Stephens, John L., 175-177
+
+Stevenson, Robert Louis, 230, 231
+
+Stoddard, Richard Henry, 204-207, 233, 236, 238, 240-242
+
+Stoddard, Mrs. Richard Henry, 240, 242
+
+Stone Street, 9
+
+Stone, William L., 175, 183, 184
+
+_Story of a New York House, The_, 232
+
+Streets first lighted, 25
+
+Strong, Dr. Josiah, 246
+
+Stuyvesant, Judith, 11
+
+Stuyvesant, Peter, 1, 11, 12, 19
+
+_Stylus, The_, 152
+
+_Sunday Times and Messenger_, 138
+
+Sunnyside, 104
+
+_Swallow Barn_, 149
+
+_Sweet Bells Out of Tune_, 244
+
+
+T
+
+_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_, 120
+
+_Tales of a City Room_, 235
+
+_Tales of a Country Schoolmaster_, 182
+
+_Tales of the Good Woman_, 114
+
+_Talisman_ Magazine, 181
+
+_Talisman, The_, 133
+
+Tammany Hall, First, 71
+
+Taylor, Bayard, 198, 204-208, 218, 238, 241
+
+Temple, Charlotte, 118
+
+Temple Street, 118
+
+Thames Street, 99
+
+_Thistle Finch, The_, 10
+
+Thomson, Mortimer, 215
+
+Tienhoven's Street, 76
+
+_Tom Thornton_, 131
+
+_Town and Country_, 157
+
+Townsend, Edward W., 234
+
+Trinity Church, 26, 32
+
+Tuckerman, Henry T., 221, 222
+
+_Typee_, 226
+
+
+U
+
+_Ulalume_, 165
+
+_United States and England_, 112
+
+_Universe, The_, 165
+
+
+V
+
+Van Brugh Street, 57
+
+Van Cortlandt, Oloff, 12
+
+_Vanderlyn_, 175
+
+Van Dyke, Henry, 248
+
+_Vanity Fair_, 215, 218
+
+Van Tassel house, 103
+
+Vauxhall, 171
+
+Verplanck, Gulian C., 133, 142, 181, 186
+
+_Views Afoot_, 205
+
+_Vignettes of Manhattan_, 251
+
+_Visit of St. Nicholas_, 197
+
+_Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, 98
+
+
+W
+
+Wallace, William Ross, 151
+
+Wall Street, 6
+
+Wall, The city, 5
+
+Ward, Artemus, 217
+
+Washington, George, 62, 64
+
+Washington Hall, 131
+
+_Water Witch, The_, 134
+
+Webster, Noah, 65
+
+_Weekly Post-Boy_, 58
+
+_Westward Ho!_, 114
+
+Whitehall, 8
+
+White, Richard Grant, 241, 243
+
+Whitman, Walt, 218
+
+_Wieland_, 78
+
+Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 251
+
+_Wild Scenes in Forest and Prairie_, 175
+
+Wiley, the publisher, 130
+
+Williams, Jesse Lynch, 234
+
+William Street, 88
+
+Willis, Nathaniel P., 138, 154-157, 162
+
+Windust's, 111, 137, 138
+
+_Winter in the West, A_, 175
+
+Winter, William, 218, 234
+
+Winthrop, Theodore, 219, 220
+
+_Wolfert's Roost_, 103, 104
+
+_Woman of Honor, The_, 243
+
+_Woodman, Spare that Tree_, 154
+
+Woodworth, Samuel, 129, 130, 142, 153, 154
+
+
+Y
+
+Yorkville, 145
+
+"Young American Roscius," 73
+
+
+Z
+
+Zenger, Peter, 38, 40
+
+
+
+
+_BELLES-LETTRES_
+
+
+Browning, Poet and Man
+
+A Survey. By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis,"
+"William Morris," etc.
+
+_8o. With 25 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone. $2.50._
+
+"It is written with taste and judgment.... The book is exactly what it
+ought to be, and will lead many to an appreciation of Browning who
+have hitherto looked at the bulk of his writings with disgust.... It
+is beautifully illustrated, and the paper and typography are superb.
+It is an edition that every admirer of Browning should possess, being
+worthy in every way of the poet."--_Chicago Evening Post._
+
+
+Tennyson, His Homes, his Friends, and his Work.
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "William Morris,"
+etc.
+
+_8o. With 18 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone, $2.50._
+
+"The multitude of admirers of Tennyson in the United States will mark
+this beautiful volume as very satisfactory. The text is clear, terse,
+and intelligent, and the matter admirably arranged, while the
+mechanical work is faultless, with art work especially marked for
+excellence."--_Chicago Inter-Ocean._
+
+_G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS_
+
+_New York_ _London_
+
+
+
+
+_BELLES-LETTRES_
+
+
+William Morris, Poet, Craftsman, Socialist
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "Robert
+Browning," "Tennyson," etc.
+
+_8o. Fully illustrated, uniform with "The Rossettis," "Browning,"
+etc. Net, $3.50. By mail, $3.75._
+
+William Morris, of active, varied, and interesting life, has been the
+subject of several biographies, written from different points of view.
+Nevertheless, there is need for an account that gathers together the
+chief facts of the life in a condensed form, and connects them with
+comment and criticism of an informing character. Miss Cary has
+emphasized the essential unity of purpose underlying the numerous and
+diverse pursuits in which Morris was engaged, and has sought to
+distinguish the peculiar and enduring qualities by which his genius
+was marked.
+
+
+The Rossettis, Dante Gabriel and Christina
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY
+
+_With 27 illustrations in photogravure and some text illustrations.
+Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone, $2.50._
+
+"The story of this life has been told by Mr. Hall Caine, Mr. William
+Sharp, Mr. Watts-Dunton, and Mr. William Rossetti, his brother, but
+never quite so well as by Miss Cary, who, thoroughly conversant with
+all the material which their writings furnish, has turned it to better
+advantage than they were capable of from their personal relation to
+its perplexing subject."--_Mail and Express._
+
+_G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS_
+
+_New York_ _London_
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK***
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+<body>
+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Literary New York, by Charles Hemstreet</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Literary New York</p>
+<p>       Its Landmarks and Associations</p>
+<p>Author: Charles Hemstreet</p>
+<p>Release Date: March 29, 2010  [eBook #31814]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Linda Cantoni,<br />
+    and the<br />
+    Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table style="padding-bottom: 1em" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="cover">
+<tr>
+<td><img src="images/spine.jpg" width="89" height="500" alt="spine" title="spine" /></td>
+<td><img src="images/cover.jpg" width="342" height="500" alt="cover" title="cover" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#Contents">Contents</a><br />
+<a href="#Full-Page_Illustrations">Full-Page Illustrations</a><br />
+<a href="#Illustrations_in_the_Text">Illustrations in the Text</a><br />
+<a href="#Index">Index</a></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em">
+<img src="images/title.jpg" width="246" height="500" alt="title" title="title" />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="bbox">
+<h1><span class="red"><b>LITERARY<br />
+NEW YORK</b></span></h1>
+
+<h2>Its Landmarks and<br />
+Associations</h2>
+
+
+<h3><span class="msm">By</span><br />
+<br />
+<span class="red">Charles Hemstreet</span></h3>
+
+
+<h3><b><i>With 65 Illustrations</i></b></h3>
+
+<p class="centertbp">
+<img src="images/logo.png" width="79" height="73" alt="logo" title="logo" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="lg"><span class="red">G.P. Putnam&#8217;s Sons</span></span><br />
+New York and London<br />
+<span class="bl">The Knickerbocker Press</span><br />
+1903
+</p>
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<p class="center"><span class="msm"><span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1903<br />
+BY<br />
+CHARLES HEMSTREET</span></p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center"><span class="msm">Published, November, 1903</span></p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><span class="msm"><span class="bl">The Knickerbocker Press, New York</span></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0"><a name="HALFMOON" id="HALFMOON"></a>
+<img src="images/halfmoon.png" width="500" height="350" alt="The Half Moon" title="The Half Moon" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">The &#8220;Half-Moon&#8221; on the Hudson&mdash;<br />
+1609.<br />
+<span class="msm">From the painting by <span class="smcap">L.W. Seavey</span>.</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">-iii-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents</h2>
+
+<table style="width: 80%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td class="right"><span class="sm">CHAPTER</span></td><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="right"><span class="sm">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_I">I.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Writers of New Amsterdam</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_II">II.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Before the Revolution</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_III">III.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Poet of the Revolution</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_IV">IV.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">In the Days of Thomas Paine</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_V">V.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The City that Irving Knew</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_VI">VI.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">With Paulding, Drake, and Halleck</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_VII">VII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Cooper and his Friends</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Those who Gathered about Poe</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_IX">IX.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">At the Close of the Knickerbocker Days</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_X">X.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Half a Century ago</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_XI">XI.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Two Famous Meeting-Places</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#Chapter_XII">XII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Some of the Writers of To-Day</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_230">230</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">-v-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Full-Page_Illustrations" id="Full-Page_Illustrations"></a>Full-Page Illustrations</h2>
+
+
+<table style="width: 95%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="full-page illustrations">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="right"><span class="sm">PAGE</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#HALFMOON"><span class="smcap">The &#8220;Half Moon&#8221; on the Hudson</span>, 1609</a><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the painting by L.W. Seavey.</span></td>
+<td class="right" style="vertical-align: top"><i>Frontispiece</i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#STADT"><span class="smcap">The Stadt Huys</span></a></td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#BROAD"><span class="smcap">Broad Street</span>, 1642</a></td>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#KINGS"><span class="smcap">King&#8217;s College, about</span> 1773</a></td>
+<td class="right">42</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#PRISON"><span class="smcap">The Debtors&#8217; Prison</span></a></td>
+<td class="right">48</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="width: 30%"><a href="#WRITERS_1"><span class="smcap">William Smith</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Peter Stuyvesant</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Philip Freneau</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Thomas Paine</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Joel Barlow</span></a></td>
+<td style="vertical-align: bottom; width: 60%"><img src="images/bracket01.png" width="15" height="105" alt="bracket" title="bracket" /></td>
+<td class="right">60</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#TAMMANY"><span class="smcap">The First Tammany Wigwam, Corner Nassau and Spruce Streets</span></a></td>
+<td class="right">70</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#MAP"><span class="smcap">Map of Streets in the City of New York in</span> 1827</a></td>
+<td class="right">76</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="width: 30%"><a href="#WRITERS_2"><span class="smcap">James Kirke Paulding</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Philip Hone</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Washington Irving</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Joseph Rodman Drake</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Fitz-Greene Halleck</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">J. Fenimore Cooper</span></a></td>
+<td style="vertical-align: bottom"><img src="images/bracket01.png" width="15" height="134" alt="bracket" title="bracket" /></td>
+<td class="right">100</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">-vi-</a></span><a href="#THEATRE"><span class="smcap">The Park Theatre, Park Row</span>, 1831</a></td>
+<td class="right">136</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="width: 30%"><a href="#WRITERS_3"><span class="smcap">Richard Henry Stoddard</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">John James Audubon</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">William Cullen Bryant</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Bayard Taylor</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Edgar Allan Poe</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Robert Fulton</span></a></td>
+<td style="vertical-align: bottom"><img src="images/bracket01.png" width="15" height="134" alt="bracket" title="bracket" /></td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#FORDHAM"><span class="smcap">Poe&#8217;s Cottage at Fordham</span></a><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.</span></td>
+<td class="right" style="vertical-align: top">158</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#BATTERY"><span class="smcap">The Battery in</span> 1830</a><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From a drawing by C. Burton.</span></td>
+<td class="right">164</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#APOLLO"><span class="smcap">The Apollo Rooms in</span> 1830</a></td>
+<td class="right">170</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#WILLIAM_STREET"><span class="smcap">View of Old Buildings in William Street, Looking Towards Maiden Lane</span>, 1800</a></td>
+<td class="right">182</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="width: 30%"><a href="#WRITERS_4"><span class="smcap">W.D. Howells</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">J.G. Holland</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Richard Grant White</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Brander Matthews</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">William Winter</span></a></td>
+<td style="vertical-align: bottom"><img src="images/bracket01.png" width="15" height="104" alt="bracket" title="bracket" /></td>
+<td class="right">200</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble;
+courtesy of W.E. Benjamin.</span></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">-vii-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Illustrations_in_the_Text" id="Illustrations_in_the_Text"></a>Illustrations in the Text</h2>
+
+
+<table style="width: 80%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations in the text">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="right"><span class="sm">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SEAL"><span class="smcap">Seal of New Amsterdam</span></a></td><td class="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DUTCH"><span class="smcap">Early Dutch Houses</span></a></td><td class="right">2</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WALL"><span class="smcap">The Wall and Gate</span></a></td><td class="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BIBLE"><span class="smcap">An Old Family Bible</span></a></td><td class="right">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WHITEHALL"><span class="smcap">Stuyvesant&#8217;s &#8220;Whitehall&#8221;</span></a></td><td class="right">8</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#STRAND"><span class="smcap">Along the Strand</span></a></td><td class="right">9</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SILLE"><span class="smcap">De Sille&#8217;s House</span></a></td><td class="right">14</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COSTUME"><span class="smcap">A Woman&#8217;s Costume, New Amsterdam</span></a></td><td class="right">16</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BOUWERIE"><span class="smcap">Stuyvesant&#8217;s Bouwerie House</span></a></td><td class="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHURCH_FORT"><span class="smcap">The Church in the Fort</span></a></td><td class="right">21</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KIDD"><span class="smcap">Captain Kidd&#8217;s House</span></a></td><td class="right">23</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TRINITY"><span class="smcap">The Church Called Trinity</span></a></td><td class="right">34</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&#8220;<a href="#GAZETTE"><span class="smcap">The New-York Gazette</span></a>&#8221;</td><td class="right">39</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLLECT"><span class="smcap">The Collect</span></a></td><td class="right">48</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PRISON_SHIP"><span class="smcap">The British Prison-Ship</span></a></td><td class="right">53</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DUTCH_CHURCH"><span class="smcap">The Middle Dutch Church</span></a></td><td class="right">55</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FRAUNCES"><span class="smcap">Fraunces&#8217; Tavern</span></a></td><td class="right">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BROAD_2"><span class="smcap">Broad Street and Federal Hall</span></a></td><td class="right">63</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RICHMOND"><span class="smcap">Richmond Hill</span></a></td><td class="right">64</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CORNERSTONE"><span class="smcap">The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre</span></a></td><td class="right">69<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">-viii-</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#POST_OFFICE"><span class="smcap">The Post Office, William Street</span></a></td><td class="right">78</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#GOLDEN"><span class="smcap">Golden Hill Inn</span></a></td><td class="right">88</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPEL"><span class="smcap">St. George&#8217;s Chapel, Beekman St.</span></a></td><td class="right">89</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#HOTEL"><span class="smcap">The City Hotel</span></a></td><td class="right">101</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ASTORIA"><span class="smcap">The House of Astor, where Irving Wrote &#8220;Astoria&#8221;</span></a></td><td class="right">102</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#IRVING"><span class="smcap">Where Irving Lived, 17th Street and Irving Place</span></a></td><td class="right">104</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SHAKESPEARE"><span class="smcap">The Shakespeare Tavern</span></a></td><td class="right">120</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#JUMEL"><span class="smcap">The Jumel Mansion</span></a></td><td class="right">123</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WASHINGTON_HALL"><span class="smcap">Washington Hall</span></a></td><td class="right">132</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BLOOMINGDALE"><span class="smcap">On Bloomingdale Road, near 75th Street, in Poe&#8217;s Time</span></a></td><td class="right">147</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CARMINE"><span class="smcap">The House in Carmine Street</span></a></td><td class="right">149</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RAVEN"><span class="smcap">Where Poe Wrote &#8220;The Raven&#8221;</span></a></td><td class="right">157</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#MUSEUM"><span class="smcap">Museum at the North End of the Park</span>, 1825</a></td><td class="right">170</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#NIBLO"><span class="smcap">Niblo&#8217;s Garden</span></a></td><td class="right">171</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#AUDUBON"><span class="smcap">Audubon&#8217;s Home, 156th Street and North River</span></a></td><td class="right">193</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHELSEA"><span class="smcap">Clement C. Moore&#8217;s House, Chelsea</span></a></td><td class="right">196</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#UNIVERSITY"><span class="smcap">The University Building</span></a></td><td class="right">219</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#STUDIO"><span class="smcap">The Studio Building in West 10th Street</span></a></td><td class="right">221</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#EAST_20">53 <span class="smcap">East 20th Street</span></a></td><td class="right">223<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">-ix-</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WEST">10 <span class="smcap">West Street</span></a></td><td class="right">232</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RIIS"><span class="smcap">Where &#8220;How the Other Half Lives&#8221; was Written</span></a></td><td class="right">237</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#MACDOUGAL">146 <span class="smcap">Macdougal Street</span></a></td><td class="right">239</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WAVERLY">108 <span class="smcap">Waverly Place</span></a></td><td class="right">240</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WHITE"><span class="smcap">Richard Grant White&#8217;s Home</span></a></td><td class="right">241</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#STODDARD"><span class="smcap">Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died</span></a></td><td class="right">243</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#AUTHORS"><span class="smcap">Where the Authors&#8217; Club was Organized</span></a></td><td class="right">244</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#GREELEY"><span class="smcap">Horace Greeley&#8217;s Home</span></a></td><td class="right">245</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BEEKMAN"><span class="smcap">The Beekman Mansion</span></a></td><td class="right">249</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#HUTTON"><span class="smcap">Lawrence Hutton&#8217;s House</span></a></td><td class="right">252</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DEKAY"><span class="smcap">De Kay&#8217;s House, London Terrace</span></a></td><td class="right">254</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">-1-</a></span></p>
+<h1><b>Literary New York</b></h1>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_I" id="Chapter_I"></a>Chapter I<br />
+Writers of New Amsterdam</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><a name="SEAL" id="SEAL"></a>
+<img src="images/line01.png" width="109" height="112" alt="Seal of New Amsterdam" title="Seal of New Amsterdam" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="noindent"><span class="dropcap">T</span>HERE is a fashion nowadays of trimming the fronts of brick houses by
+placing black bricks among the red in such a way as to form odd and
+unique designs. It is an attractive way of doing, for it varies the
+staid simplicity of the solid color. But for all it may seem original
+and new, it is a style that had its beginning long, long ago, even in
+the days when the stern Peter Stuyvesant governed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">-2-</a></span> with an iron hand
+over the Dutch colony of fifteen hundred people, the town that was one
+day to be New York, but which in his time was called New Amsterdam.</p>
+
+<p><a name="DUTCH" id="DUTCH"></a>
+<img src="images/line02.png" width="191" height="126" alt="Early Dutch Houses" title="Early Dutch Houses" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was a tiny town then; picturesque, too, for the houses were low,
+irregular, with sloping roofs and gable ends to the street. They were
+built of wood&mdash;that is, all except the church, the Stadt Huys, the
+Governor's house, and some few dwellings of colonists who had brought
+much wealth with them from Holland. These were for the most part of
+stone. It was usual in them all&mdash;there were scarcely more than a
+hundred,&mdash;whether of wood or stone, to have chimneys outside the
+walls, thus making less the danger of fire, and if any part of the
+house<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">-3-</a></span> were of brick it was sure to be the chimney. All the brick had
+then to be brought from Holland, so it was an expensive building
+material and but sparingly used.</p>
+
+<p>At this time when Stuyvesant held full sway there were two industrious
+colonists who held the idea that their short-cut to immense wealth lay
+in the way of making bricks at home and supplying them to their fellow
+colonists. So it came about, after long and slow deliberation, that
+the first brickyard was started. To be sure the venturesome
+fortune-hunters soon found that they were not to succeed all at once,
+for, owing to their lack of knowledge, they ruined so many of their
+bricks that the profits of the business were like to be consumed in
+the black-burned material that they threw aside as worthless.</p>
+
+<p>But just at this time an odd thing happened. This was no less than
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">-4-</a></span> appearance of a colonist who agreed to buy&mdash;at a low price to be
+sure, but still to buy&mdash;all the black-burned and apparently useless
+brick. The brickmakers wondered very much at this, and without doubt
+thought the man a trifle unsound in his mind, but they agreed, and
+very soon the buyer had built himself a house, which when it was
+completed showed the burnt brick alternating with the red, prettily
+decorating the front and making of it the most attractive dwelling in
+the town. And at this they were filled with admiration and respect.
+All the townspeople went to look at the house, and while looking
+marvelled that Jacob Steendam could have thought out such a useful
+plan, for he was not known as a practical man. Anything but that, for
+was he not a poet? More than this, was he not the only poet in the
+colony? And still more than this, he was the first poet of New
+Amsterdam.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">-5-</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="WALL" id="WALL"></a>
+<img src="images/line05.png" width="271" height="110" alt="The Wall and Gate" title="The Wall and Gate" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>And in other ways, too, this first literary man of the colony was no
+ordinary man. He had come to New Amsterdam in the employ of the owners
+of the colony, the Dutch West India Company, and he worked in the
+Company's warehouse. But he had a mind which fixed itself on things
+above the beaver skins which it was his task to register before they
+were sent across the sea. He was clerk by day, poet by night. It was
+his custom while the townspeople slept, and they were early abed, to
+wander about in the moonlight. He could walk the length and breadth of
+the town with no great exertion, for it merely tipped the triangular
+point of the island of Manhattan, enclosed on two sides by rivers and
+on the land side by a wall of wood and soil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">-6-</a></span> which served to keep the
+Indians out&mdash;a wall stretching straight across the island quite from
+river to river, following the line that Wall Street was to take later
+when Indians should be no more and when the town itself should have
+burst its bounds. Here then the poet walked through the narrow
+streets&mdash;winding ways that had their birth as Indian trails, passed
+their infancy as cow-paths, and had so wound around marshy tracts and
+deviated from their course that as streets they must of necessity be
+irregular and vacillating.</p>
+
+<p><a name="BIBLE" id="BIBLE"></a>
+<img src="images/line06.png" width="152" height="188" alt="An Old Family Bible" title="An Old Family Bible" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>While this was a time of advancement for the little colony, as you may
+have guessed from the brickmak<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">-7-</a></span>ing venture, yet it was certainly not a
+literary period. The colonists who had left their homes in Holland to
+seek their fortunes in a new world had found that Fortune overseas
+frowned upon them as often as she smiled, and while she had raised the
+hopes of some, the many were struggling for bare existence. There was
+no book-making; indeed there were few books of any sort, and reading
+meant conning over Bibles, prayer-books, psalm-books, and Testaments
+which had been brought across the ocean. These were stoutly bound
+volumes, many of them heirlooms, their pages bearing the marks of
+patient and persistent handling.</p>
+
+<p><a name="WHITEHALL" id="WHITEHALL"></a>
+<img src="images/line08.png" width="186" height="156" alt="Stuyvesant&#39;s &#39;Whitehall&#39;" title="Stuyvesant&#39;s &#39;Whitehall&#39;" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>The poet Steendam dreamed and thought out many a verse as he stood on
+the bridge that spanned the canal leading from the bay to the Sheep
+Pasture,&mdash;the canal that was one day to be buried deep beneath Broad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">-8-</a></span>
+Street. He must have walked beneath the wall of the weak little fort
+at the water's edge, passed Governor Stuyvesant's new home that was
+called Whitehall, and that was to pass away, leaving its name to the
+road leading to it, which the road was still to bear more than two
+hundred and fifty years later. And perhaps he went on along the strand
+to the Stadt Huys (for it was only a few steps farther along the
+waterside), the stone house that "William the Testy" had built as a
+tavern and that in the first poet's day had become the first City Hall
+of New Amsterdam. And he sometimes stood beside the first graveyard,
+near the plaine that was to become the Bowling Green, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">-9-</a></span> so on to
+the city wall, with its gates locked while the townsmen slept.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em;">
+<a name="STADT" id="STADT"></a>
+<img src="images/stadthuys.png" width="500" height="301" alt="THE STADT HUYS." title="THE STADT HUYS." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">THE STADT HUYS.</p>
+
+<p>Though the streets are to-day much changed from those which the poet
+walked alone save for the company of his Muse, you can walk them even
+now, until you come to a thoroughfare noticeable because it is so
+short and winding, tucked away at the edge of the city's business
+section. And if you do walk into Stone Street, you must of necessity
+come to a bend from which both ends of the street curve out of sight,
+while you stand in a kind of huge well, closed in by iron-shuttered
+warehouses. Here in this bend you are standing on what was the garden
+of Jacob Steendam's checker-fronted house. In his day it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">-10-</a></span> Hoogh
+Street, though in a few years it was to take its present name when it
+was the first street to be paved with stone.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="STRAND" id="STRAND"></a>
+<img src="images/line09.png" width="346" height="164" alt="Along the Strand" title="Along the Strand" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In those nightly walks through the quiet streets of the sleeping town,
+the poet Steendam found inspiration for his verses&mdash;the first verses
+ever penned in the colony, and called variously <i>The Praise of New
+Netherland</i>, <i>The Complaint of New Amsterdam</i>, <i>The Thistle Finch</i>,
+and others. Although these suggested true affection for the land of
+his adoption, it was the home of his youth and the never-fading
+remembrance of his childhood's days that haunted him and called to
+him. And at last, one day after thirteen years, the sight of a ship
+preparing to sail for Holland so overcame him that almost within the
+hour he had bidden farewell and had sailed with her, leaving to the
+townspeople his memory and his verse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">-11-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But by the time of his going there had come forward another poet to
+take his place, by name Nicasius De Sille. There was a vast difference
+between the first poet and the second. Steendam was a poor man, and in
+his verses sought always to touch those who had never grasped the
+skirts of fleeting Fortune. The second was a man of wealth, a kind of
+"society poet." For even in that small circle, in the first
+half-century of its existence, there were marked differences in
+wealth, birth, and reputation, which were to develop with the passing
+years into the distinctions of to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The aristocracy of those times centred about the family of the Dutch
+Governor, Peter Stuyvesant. Mrs. Stuyvesant had been, before her
+marriage, Judith Bayard, the daughter of a Paris divine. Mrs. Bayard,
+the sister of Peter Stuyvesant, had married Mrs. Stuyvesant's brother,
+and when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">-12-</a></span> left a widow with three infant sons she followed her brother
+when he became Governor of New Netherland. These two women had lived
+in ease and refinement, and in coming to the colony well knew that
+there they would find a life of comparative hardship. Yet they came
+willingly enough, following husband and brother, and brought with them
+an atmosphere of intellectual and social culture that left its impress
+for all time. By the time Steendam returned to his boyhood home, a few
+ambitious folk had gathered themselves about the Stuyvesants. There
+was Oloff Van Cortlandt, a thriving merchant and one of the richest
+men in New Netherland; there were Hendrick Kip and his three sons;
+there were Dr. La Montagne and his daughters, and Govert Loockermans,
+and others.</p>
+
+<p>It was to this well-to-do-set that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">-13-</a></span> Nicasius De Sille belonged, and
+after the going of Steendam he became the only literary man in the
+colony. He also had come over in the service of the Dutch West India
+Company, but in a far different capacity from Steendam. For he came,
+when Stuyvesant's rule had run eight years of its course, as a
+Councillor in the provincial government, and his life was thenceforth
+closely connected with that of the Governor. He came, heralded as a
+statesman, as a lawyer, as a man of deep learning, as a man of wealth.
+But with not one word of his being a poet&mdash;yet only by reason of his
+poems has his name lived. He built for himself a house beside the
+little canal where Steendam walked in the night, just where now
+Exchange Street touches Broad, and here, with his two motherless
+daughters and one son, he lived more luxuriously than had yet been
+seen. For<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">-14-</a></span> he had brought with him from Holland heavy plate of rich
+design, more plate than was in all the town beside; solid, carved
+furniture and rare hangings; and on winter nights his guests sat down
+to a table laden with blue and white china ornamented with strange
+Chinese pictures, and drank their tea, alternately biting lumps of
+sugar, from the tiniest china cups, and altogether were entertained
+with all the pomp and circumstance he had known in The Hague. At these
+evening entertainments De Sille read his poems in such perfect style
+as to win much applause, and doubtless it was the reading of these, as
+well as his courtly man<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">-15-</a></span>ner and great wealth, that very soon won for
+him the love of fair Tryntie Croegers.</p>
+
+<p><a name="SILLE" id="SILLE"></a>
+<img src="images/line14.png" width="231" height="148" alt="De Sille&#39;s House" title="De Sille&#39;s House" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>And then one day there was a grand gathering in the stone church
+inside the fort&mdash;on the wedding-day of Nicasius De Sille and Mistress
+Tryntie Croegers. Into the church went the friends: women, some with
+petticoats of red cloth, some with skirts of blue or purple silk set
+off with rare lace, all with silken hoods over much befrizzled hair,
+and their fingers covered with glittering rings, and with great
+lockets of gold on their bosoms. Each had a Bible fastened to her
+girdle by links of gold&mdash;not the plain, strongly bound Bibles used by
+Jacob Steendam and his friends, but elaborately wrought in silver,
+with golden clasps. The men were just as gaily dressed as the women,
+for they wore long coats adorned with shining buttons and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">-16-</a></span> pockets
+trimmed with lace, and colored waistcoats, knee-breeches of velvet,
+silk stockings, and low shoes set off by silver buckles. Outside the
+fort among the townspeople of lower degree it was, too, quite a
+holiday. Men with coarse frocks and leather aprons, women in homespun
+gowns, turbaned negresses, swarthy negro slaves, dusky Indians,&mdash;all
+made merry in their several ways as though glad of an excuse. And the
+motley throng outside the fort and the elegant gathering within all
+made way for the wrinkled little bell-ringer, who carried the cushions
+from the Stadt Huys for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">-17-</a></span> burgomasters and the schepens, who
+insisted on every bit of their dignity, come what would, on this day
+or on any other. So, with those inside the church looking on in
+silence and the people outside keeping up an incessant din and
+clatter, the poet of the rich was married to Tryntie Croegers by the
+good Dominie Megapolensis.</p>
+
+<p><a name="COSTUME" id="COSTUME"></a>
+<img src="images/line16.png" width="144" height="209" alt="A Woman&#39;s Costume, New Amsterdam" title="A Woman&#39;s Costume, New Amsterdam" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>But for all such a fair starting off this married life had an untimely
+ending. Though Nicasius De Sille might win a wife by his poetry, it
+seemed that he could not hold one. There were no poetic readings in
+the house by the canal after the marriage, and the literature of the
+town which had started out so bravely fell into a decline with the
+languishing of De Sille's connubial bliss. Before the third year had
+gone by, a commission of their friends was trying to tell the pair how
+happy their lives should have been. But all the reasoning<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">-18-</a></span> had no
+effect, and the friends were forced to give it up and submit to a
+decision, in very quaint wording, the tenor of which was that it was
+acknowledged that there was no love between the two, and that the only
+recommendation that could be made was that the property should be
+divided equally and they go their several ways,&mdash;which they did. But
+the earlier readings of poetry had sown the seed of still another
+marriage. For at those readings, Anna, the youngest daughter of the
+poet, had sat by her father's side, and young Hendrick Kip had sat by
+his father's side, and about the time the commission of friends was
+announcing its failure to patch up matters, Anna De Sille and Hendrick
+Kip, all undismayed by the bad example, had decided to sit side by
+side through the remainder of their lives.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="BOUWERIE" id="BOUWERIE"></a>
+<img src="images/line19.png" width="327" height="200" alt="Stuyvesant&#39;s Bouwerie House" title="Stuyvesant&#39;s Bouwerie House" />
+</p>
+
+<p>All this time De Sille was growing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">-19-</a></span> more and more rich, when there
+came a great change. Of a sudden one day the English ship sailed into
+the bay, and the English soldiers took possession of the town, and the
+rule of the Dutch in New Amsterdam had passed, and the English became
+governors of their province of New York. Then Stuyvesant went to live
+in a little settlement he had built up and called Bouwerie Village,
+which was far out on the Bouwerie Road, and Nicasius De Sille settled
+down as a merchant,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">-20-</a></span> and little more was heard of him as a poet.</p>
+
+<p>It was a simple enough thing to rename the town and call it after the
+brother of an English king, but that made but little change in the
+customs of the people. For many a long year it was to remain the
+quaint, slow-going town it had been. Certainly no English brain or
+hand added to the literature of this time, and the only bit of writing
+which survives is the work of a Dutch minister.</p>
+
+<p>In the eighteenth year after the coming of the English, when it had
+come to be 1682, Dominie Henricus Selyns came to New York from
+Holland. He had lived four years in the town when it was New
+Amsterdam, and we have his own words for it that he found the
+settlement scarcely altered a whit from the time he left. And now he
+took charge of the little church in the fort, the same church<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">-21-</a></span> where
+Nicasius De Sille was married with such pomp. His congregation was
+made up of much the same kind of people as of old, and perhaps it was
+just as well, since he still preached in the Dutch language. The poems
+he wrote, all in the Dutch language, were read as piously as were the
+Bibles, and were quite at one with them in religious feeling. No one
+then imagined that a day would come when a critic might hint that the
+good Dominie's contributions to the early literature of New York might
+be just a shade gloomy and despairing in their views of the
+fearfulness of the after-life.</p>
+
+<p><a name="CHURCH_FORT" id="CHURCH_FORT"></a>
+<img src="images/line21.png" width="188" height="131" alt="The Church in the Fort" title="The Church in the Fort" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>For quite twenty years the good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">-22-</a></span> Dominie lived to aid in fostering the
+infant literature of infant New York, living a life as quiet and as
+regular as any Dutch colonist could have demanded. On a Sunday morning
+he preached in the church in the fort the long, heavy sermons that his
+people loved. In the afternoon he rode away on the highway that led
+into the country, past the Collect Pond, over the Kissing Bridge at
+the Fresh Water, on to the stretch that was to grow into the Bowery,
+through the forest till he came to the few clustering houses of the
+Bouwerie Village, where Stuyvesant had spent his old age. In the
+village church he preached of an afternoon,&mdash;the church which
+Stuyvesant had built and beside which he was buried,&mdash;the church which
+was to stand another hundred years and which was then to give way to a
+house of worship to be called St. Mark's, which,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">-23-</a></span> in turn, two
+centuries and more after Stuyvesant's day, was still to be found
+standing in the core of a great metropolis.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="KIDD" id="KIDD"></a>
+<img src="images/line23.png" width="324" height="186" alt="Capt. Kidd&#39;s House" title="Capt. Kidd&#39;s House" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Dominie Selyns lived long enough to see many changes. He lived to see
+a Dutch prince become England's king; he lived to see New York rent
+asunder through the overzealousness of one Jacob Leisler, who feared
+lest the town should not recognize a king of Dutch blood; he lived to
+see Lord Bellomont made Governor and riding through the streets in a
+coach the gorgeousness of which as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">-24-</a></span>tounded all; he lived to see
+Captain William Kidd sail out of the harbor in the ship <i>Adventure
+Galley</i>, with never a thought that a few years more would see him
+executed as a pirate. And when Dominie Selyns died, bequeathing his
+poems to swell the scanty literature of his times, the era of the
+Dutch had well-nigh ended.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">-25-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_II" id="Chapter_II"></a>Chapter II<br />
+Before the Revolution</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">W</span>HEN William Bradford came to New York, in 1693, the town had grown so
+large that it must needs have a night-watch&mdash;four men who each carried
+a lantern, and who, strolling through the quiet streets, proclaimed at
+the start of each hour that the weather was fair, or that the weather
+was foul, and told beside that all was as well as it should be in
+those nightly hours. More than this, the town went a step farther
+towards the making of a metropolis, and lit the streets by night
+(whether for the benefit of the night-watch or for some other the
+records say not), by placing on a pole projecting from each seventh
+house a lantern with a candle in it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">-26-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Pilgrims who year after year seek out the shrines that are connected
+in one way or another with the literature of the city have worn a path
+plain to be seen along the stone pavement about Trinity Church, a path
+leading straight to a bit of greensward where, beside a gravel walk,
+is the tomb of William Bradford. Although Bradford made slight
+pretence of being a man of letters, he is remembered as one who loved
+to foster literature. And, there being little enough left to recall
+the writings of the seventeenth century, this tombstone has its many
+visitors. The pilgrims who find their way to it have but half
+completed their journey. If they leave the churchyard and stray on,
+not going by way of crowded Wall Street, which would be the direct
+course, but taking one of the more winding and narrow streets to the
+south, they will come after a time to a thoroughfare where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">-27-</a></span> the
+structure of the Elevated Road forms a bridge to convey heavy trains
+that hurry past, stirring the air with constant vibration. In this
+street, dark even when the sun shines brightest, is another reminder
+of William Bradford,&mdash;a tablet in form, but quite as much a tombstone
+as the other; for its brazen letters tell in true epitaph how he lived
+here two hundred years gone by, and how here on this spot he set up
+the first printing-press in the colony, and that here he did the
+public printing, as well as such books and psalms, tracts and
+almanacs, and such like things as he had time for. These were all
+queer, rough-lettered, black-lined pamphlets, and none was more quaint
+than John Clapp's <i>Almanac</i>, the first which came from the press and
+the first written in the city.</p>
+
+<p>John Clapp had time without end to write this almanac, and yet no one
+ever knew just when he did it. He was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">-28-</a></span> the keeper of the inn in the
+Bouwerie Village, and, having more idle moments than busy ones, he
+spent most of his time on the broad stoop of the inn, pipe in mouth,
+looking first at the house where Peter Stuyvesant had lived, then at
+the dusty road leading away up country towards the King's Bridge in
+one direction, and down country towards the town. But write it he did,
+and Bradford printed it, and John Clapp was shrewd enough to advertise
+himself well by writing in his Table of Contents concerning his
+tavern:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>It is two miles from the city, and is generally the baiting
+place where gentlemen take leave of their friends, and where
+a parting glass or two of generous wine</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="poem">
+<tr>
+<td>
+If well applied makes dull horses feel<br />
+One spur in the head is worth two in the heel.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p class="noindent">Again, in a Chronological Table, under the June date, he made the
+interesting announcement:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">-29-</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The 24th of this month is celebrated the feast of St. John
+the Baptist, in commemoration of which (and to keep up a
+happy union and lasting friendship by the sweet harmony of
+good society) a feast is held by the <i>Johns</i> of this city,
+at John Clapp's in the Bouwerie, where any gentleman whose
+name is John may find a hearty welcome to join in concert
+with his namesakes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="noindent">In response to this there came such a large gathering as would make it
+seem that all the townsmen had been baptized by one name.</p>
+
+<p>It was by an odd slip that the only important book planned and partly
+written in these last years of the seventeenth century was not printed
+by Bradford. More than once had the Episcopal minister, the Rev. John
+Miller, talked with this first printer of his plan for a history of
+the colony which he was then writing. This would have been carried
+out, beyond all doubt, if the clergyman had not just then decided to
+go to England<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">-30-</a></span> to settle some troublesome Church matters, taking his
+history with him. As ill-fortune would have it, the ship in which he
+sailed was captured by the French,&mdash;France then being at war with
+England,&mdash;and rather than have the slightest bit of information
+conveyed to the enemy through his means, the clergyman tossed the
+precious pages into the sea. In the course of time, released by the
+French, he reached England, and there rewrote the history from memory,
+and drew for it a quaint map of the town as he had known it. Having
+done so much he died, leaving his work to lie for more than a century
+and a quarter unpublished, until, in 1843, a London bookseller put it
+into print. The original, being sold again passed through several
+hands until it finally found a resting-place in the British Museum,
+where it is now preserved.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="BROAD" id="BROAD"></a>
+<img src="images/broadstreet.png" width="500" height="303" alt="BROAD STREET, 1642." title="BROAD STREET, 1642." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">BROAD STREET, 1642.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">-31-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The early days of the eighteenth century saw the fitting out of the
+first library to which the townsmen had general access&mdash;a library that
+in the next fifty years was to change from the private property of the
+Rev. John Sharpe into the Corporation Library, and later be chartered
+as the Society Library, under which title it was to live to grow
+richer and richer in literary treasures until it came to be called the
+oldest library in America in the days when the city had grown far
+beyond any bounds then thought of. In the first days of its existence,
+the library occupied tiny quarters, quite large enough for all the
+books it contained, in a room in the City Hall. This was not in the
+old Stadt Huys of the Dutch by the waterside, for that was gone now,
+but in a pretentious building facing the "broad street" that had been
+made by the filling up of the Heere<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">-32-</a></span> Graft of old. Other buildings
+were set up at this same time. There was the new French Huguenot
+church which had been in Petticoat Lane and was now rebuilt in the
+newly laid-out street below the Maiden's Lane, called Pine Street from
+the pine-trees there. Then there was the church called Trinity. Though
+it, too, was a new church, the ground on which it stood had a history
+that harked back to the very earliest Dutch times. For it was upon the
+lower edge of the Annetje Jans Farm, the strip of land above the city
+to the west which had been given to the husband of Annetje Jans far
+back in the year 1635; that had been linked with another farm by
+Governor Lovelace to make the Duke's Farm; and had become the King's
+Farm when the duke after whom it was named became a king. And then, it
+having become the Queen's Farm (and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">-33-</a></span> Queen Anne graciously presenting
+it in the year 1703 to Trinity Church for all time), it took the last
+name that it was to have and became the Church Farm&mdash;a name that was
+to cling to it after every vestige of country green had disappeared
+from its surface, and when houses had been set upon it as thick as the
+stalks of grain that once ripened upon its rolling bosom.</p>
+
+<p><a name="TRINITY" id="TRINITY"></a>
+<img src="images/line34.png" width="246" height="211" alt="&#39;The Church called Trinity&#39;" title="&#39;The Church called Trinity&#39;" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>The library in the City Hall was yet quite a new thing, the church
+called Trinity had stood on the historic ground but a few years, the
+French church was barely completed, and the town was so sprightly and
+full of activity that 't is small wonder Madame Sarah Knight, coming
+at such a time, should find much to wonder at and to write about. Her
+coming marks another advance in literary New York, for Madame Knight
+was a bookish woman come from far-off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">-34-</a></span> Boston town, and was a teacher
+well versed in the "art of composition." She found all quite different
+as compared with her own Massachusetts, where her father had been
+sentenced to stand for two hours in the stocks, his conduct having
+been found "lewd and unseemly" when, on a Sabbath day, after an
+absence of three years, he had kissed his wife when she met him at his
+own door-step! No wonder Madame Knight thought New York society quite
+gay and reckless, for at this time Lord Cornbury governed, and he had
+an odd fancy for wearing women's clothing indoors for his own
+delectation and to the amusement of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">-35-</a></span> citizens as he walked the
+walls of the fort. Though Madame Knight met many persons of quality
+and witnessed many interesting scenes, had her visit in the city been
+extended, say for half a dozen years, until the coming of Governor
+Robert Hunter, she would have met a man truly in full accord with her
+ideas and tastes.</p>
+
+<p>Had Governor Hunter's hopes been fulfilled there might have been a far
+different writing of literary history. He came from England in the
+summer of 1710, from the midst of a busy and troublous life, seeing
+before him in imagination quiet and peaceful years with the wife he
+cherished, and a career which should be helped on by his
+correspondence with his English friends, Dean Swift, Richard Steele,
+Joseph Addison, and some others. It would be an ideal life; he had
+planned it well. But the repose he sought he scarce for an hour
+realized.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">-36-</a></span> Undreamed-of turmoil kept him in a whirl of unsettledness.
+And though the wife of his heart stood by his side, and he gained
+comfort from knowing that nothing could turn her away, differences
+with the Government at home, which refused to reimburse him for money
+spent; wrangling with the Assembly, which refused money for the
+conduct of affairs in the colony; the uprising of negro slaves; the
+turbulent actions of unfriendly Indians&mdash;these things and others left
+him never an hour for the work he had planned. It was a note of
+despair that he sounded when he wrote to Swift across the sea:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This is the finest air to live upon in the universe, and if
+our trees and birds could speak and our Assemblymen be
+silent, the finest conversation also. The soil bears all
+things, but not for me.... In a word, and to be serious, I
+have spent my time here in such torment and vexation that
+nothing hereafter in life can ever make amends for it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">-37-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Still, for all this, he found time for some writing, especially for a
+play, the one called <i>Androborus</i>&mdash;The Man-eater,&mdash;in which he wrote
+in such a bantering, humorous, satirical manner of the colonial
+officers as to set the town going with laughter. From this on he got
+along better and the people came to appreciate their Governor.
+Gradually there centred about the house in the fort a "Court Circle,"
+where the Lady Hunter shone brightly, not alone because she was the
+first lady of the province, nor because her husband was Governor and a
+writer, but because others came to know her as a loving, lovely, and
+lovable woman. But when it looked as though the Governor was to have
+at last the ease and rest and quiet he had hoped for from the
+beginning, Lady Hunter died! This was the worst that could happen to
+Robert Hunter. There was nothing more for him to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">-38-</a></span> live and struggle
+for, he said. He resigned his office and, before many years, his life.</p>
+
+<p>At this time of the "Court Circle," a mild, quiet man, the son of a
+Presbyterian minister, came from Philadelphia to visit the Governor.
+And no one could foresee that this Cadwallader Colden would remain
+during the rest of his life and be, for almost half a century, the
+leader of literary New York.</p>
+
+<p>Colden came to be a friend of William Bradford, as he had been of
+Hunter, and watched his work with deep interest. He often advised
+Bradford when that first printer of New York published the <i>New York
+Gazette</i>, in 1725, the first newspaper in the city, and upheld him a
+few years later when the second newspaper was issued by Bradford's old
+apprentice boy, Peter Zenger, who had become his rival.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">-39-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the first ten years that Colden lived in New York he wrote
+diligently, and published his <i>History of the Five Nations</i>, an
+exhaustive work telling of the powerful Indian tribes, of their forms
+of government, and their wars. This was one of the earliest books of
+importance, and he was planning a second part of this same history
+when, in the year 1732, Cosby came to be Governor. In after years
+Colden told how his studies and his writings were interrupted by the
+coming of the new and lively Governor.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="GAZETTE" id="GAZETTE"></a>
+<img src="images/line39.png" width="600" height="269" alt="The New-York Gazette" title="The New-York Gazette" />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">-40-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>And now it seemed as though there were to be dissensions in the city.
+There was trouble with the Governor; trouble with Peter Zenger, who
+wished to print what the king's representatives did not want printed;
+trouble about who should be Chief Justice. But when these were
+straightened out there began a season of festivity, and during one
+entire winter there were entertainments at which the culture, the
+refinement, and the wit of the province gathered. These were days of
+splendor, when women wore gay brocades and arranged their hair in a
+variety of bewildering, towering, and fantastic shapes; when wide
+skirts were in the heyday of their fashion; when tight-lacing was in
+vogue; when men wore enormous wigs, and attired themselves in many
+colors, adorning themselves with buttons of silver&mdash;large, and
+decorated with the initials of the wearer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">-41-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the height of this brilliant season there came from England, to
+visit the Governor's family, Lord Augustus Fitzroy, son of that Duke
+of Grafton who was Chamberlain to King George II. He was received with
+all the ceremony due to his rank. The Mayor, the Recorder, and some
+other city officials met, and presented to him the freedom of the city
+in a box of burnished gold. Soon Lord Augustus had made himself so
+vastly agreeable to one of the daughters of Governor Cosby that there
+was talk of a marriage. But everybody agreed that this could not be,
+for the match was beneath him, according to the ideas of English
+society. Still, the young man was determined, the young woman was
+inclined, and the Governor's wife was a strategist. So one mild
+summer's night the young nobleman, resplendent in gay clothes, with a
+couple of his friends, assisted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">-42-</a></span> Dominie Campbell over the fort wall,
+where they found the young woman waiting, and there in the silence and
+the darkness the marriage occurred. There was some stern talk of what
+ought to be done to Dominie Campbell, and wonderment as to what the
+Duke of Grafton would say, but nothing serious came of it, although
+the romantic wedding was the talk of the town for many a year.</p>
+
+<p>Cadwallader Colden lived down by the waterside near the fort wall over
+which Dominie Campbell was dragged. And in his house there, when
+Cosby's rule quieted down, Colden got to his studies again. He lived
+until the days of the Revolution were at hand; lived to exercise the
+duties of Governor in a stormy period; lived to see the town rent by
+turmoil and political rancor; lived to be hated by many people for
+loyalty to a king they would no longer serve. Quite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">-43-</a></span> to the end of
+his life he remained a leader, and, dying, left writings on history,
+medicine, geology, botany, metaphysics, and other learned subjects.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="KINGS" id="KINGS"></a>
+<img src="images/kingscollege.png" width="500" height="305" alt="KING&#39;S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773." title="KING&#39;S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">KING&#8217;S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773.</p>
+
+<p>It was in this midway time between the days of Cosby and the period of
+the Revolution that William Smith lived and wrote. Not so marked a
+figure in literature as Colden, nor so profound a student; not one to
+leave so strong and lasting an imprint, but well to be remembered as a
+writer whose birthplace was New York. Born in the year after Colden
+published his <i>History of the Five Nations</i>, he attained a high place
+as a lawyer, giving his attention to the political and legal records.
+When still a young man he was one of those who spoke at the ceremony
+of the laying of the corner-stone of King's College&mdash;which was to be
+in existence a century and a half later as Columbia<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">-44-</a></span> University. For
+many years he lived close by Colden and intercourse would have led to
+mutual good, but the two were not friendly after Smith wrote a history
+of the city and Colden criticised it.</p>
+
+<p>Although William Smith was one of the earliest writers to own New York
+as his birthplace, he would not join in a revolt against the king whom
+he had served all his life. So he accepted the post of Chief Justice
+of Canada, leaving others to become the writers of the Revolution.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">-45-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_III" id="Chapter_III"></a>Chapter III<br />
+The Poet of the Revolution</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">I</span>N the far down-town business section of New York, there is a street
+so short that you can walk its entire length in ten minutes or less
+time. It leads from the park where the City Hall is, straight to the
+river. Beginning at the tall buildings where the newspapers have their
+homes, it continues along between the warehouses of leather merchants
+and the solid stonework of the bridge that crosses from the Manhattan
+to the Brooklyn shore; leads to the open space at the top of Cherry
+Hill, then makes a steep descent as though about to plunge deep into
+the river. For much of its length it is a constant scene of noise and
+bustle and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">-46-</a></span> disorder&mdash;that is, in the daylight hours. At night, when
+it is silent and deserted, it suggests the time, far back in the year
+1678, when it was a country lane some distance from the city, a
+by-path leading from the house of Jacob Leisler to the river. It was
+Frankfort Lane then, Leisler calling it so as a reminder of the German
+town of his birth. Now it has become Frankfort Street. Leisler's
+garden was close upon the spot where the street touches the parkside,
+and here Leisler was executed in 1691, a martyr to the cause of
+constitutional liberty.</p>
+
+<p>The lane was beginning to assume the proportions of a street in the
+year 1752, when there lived in one of the dainty houses that fronted
+it the family of Pierre Freneau, the last of a long line of Huguenots.
+There were Freneaus who fought with the Huguenots at La Rochelle, and
+there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">-47-</a></span> were Freneaus still living in that ancient city when the
+revocation of the Edict of Nantes forced so many to strange lands. The
+Freneau family, refugees from their native land, prospered in America,
+and a son born in the Frankfort Street house in this year 1752 gave
+historic interest to the name. The boy was christened Philip, and came
+to be called the Poet of the Revolution.</p>
+
+<p>Philip Freneau struggled through babyhood in Frankfort Street, and
+just as he was able to walk was whisked away to a farm in New Jersey,
+where his father had built a house, calling it Mount Pleasant after
+the old homestead in La Rochelle.</p>
+
+<p>Quite within the throw of a stone of Frankfort Street, and in the very
+year of Philip Freneau's birth, was born Eliza Schuyler, who with the
+passing of years was to marry and bear the name of Eliza Bleecker and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">-48-</a></span>
+the title of the first poetess of New York.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="COLLECT" id="COLLECT"></a>
+<img src="images/line48.png" width="297" height="148" alt="The Collect" title="The Collect" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In her childhood, the future poetess had a favorite walk over the bit
+of rolling ground to the south of Frankfort Street, the spot called
+Golden Hill, which a few years later was to be trampled by many
+soldiers, where the tall grass was to be reddened by the blood of
+patriots&mdash;the first blood shed in the Revolution. She strolled hand in
+hand with her father over the green Common, which was to become the
+City Hall Park. Sometimes, in the mid-summer, she was taken on
+excursions to the shores of a pleasant lake, called the Collect,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">-49-</a></span>
+quite a journey from the city. It was there that John Fitch's boat
+sailed years before Fulton's successful boat was launched into the
+Hudson. When the city outgrew its early bounds, the lake was drained
+and solid ground made, and the Tombs Prison rose in gloomy majesty
+where the deep waters had been.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="PRISON" id="PRISON"></a>
+<img src="images/debtor.png" width="500" height="305" alt="THE DEBTORS&#39; PRISON." title="THE DEBTORS&#39; PRISON." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">THE DEBTORS&#8217; PRISON.</p>
+
+<p>Eliza Schuyler preserved a lively memory of playing about a little
+square frame building on the Common, and though she never spoke of it
+by name it was the first Poor House of the city. She wrote, too, of a
+certain day when she went to the Common with her father&mdash;he was an
+important man that day and served on a committee&mdash;to see laid the
+first stone of another building. It was only a Debtors' Prison, but it
+was looked upon as the most beautiful structure in the city for many a
+day. For it was in the main patterned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">-50-</a></span> after the temple of Diana of
+Ephesus. The townsmen of those early days admired the building, and
+would have grieved if they could have foreseen that the day would come
+when city officials would forget that the old prison had been copied
+from so perfect a model; would forget that it had been a military
+prison when the British held possession of the city; would forget that
+many a brave officer of the Continental Army and many a true patriot
+soldier had passed bitter days there, and dying had left memories of
+sentiment and poetry and historic interest hovering about the old
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Still, though it could not be foretold, the day did come when it was
+no longer a prison but had become the Hall of Records, when it was
+called an ugly and unsightly structure which obstructed the view of
+newer and taller ones&mdash;buildings that Tammany<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">-51-</a></span> architects considered
+the perfection of beauty perhaps on account of their costliness. So it
+must be torn down.</p>
+
+<p>At the age between girlhood and womanhood, Eliza Schuyler left New
+York to live in the village of Tomhannock, and when news of her again
+reached her friends in the city she was the wife of John J. Bleecker.
+Only twice after that did she revisit the scenes of her early life,
+and it was not until her death that the writings of this first poetess
+of New York became well known and popular.</p>
+
+<p>The short and peaceful life of Eliza Bleecker was nearing an end
+before&mdash;his college days being over&mdash;Philip Freneau again trod the
+streets of New York. Already his tireless pen was at work, the pen
+that was to aid the cause of the Revolution. But when it looked to him
+as though his country would not be able to throw off the kingly yoke,
+he decided on a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">-52-</a></span> journey. He passed two years in the West Indies
+writing of the <i>Beauties of Santa Cruz</i> and the <i>House of Night</i>. Then
+a longing for the home from which he received scant word came upon
+him. He started homeward, only to be lured from his course by the
+beauties of Bermuda, where he fell in love with the Governor's
+daughter, remembered in his verse as the "Fair Amanda." He was still
+writing, lolling his time away beneath tropical skies, when tardy news
+came that the colonies had declared themselves free. Swiftly he threw
+off the languor of repose, of love, of romance, and returned home.
+The charm of the sea life was on him then, so taking out letters of
+reprisal from the Continental Congress, Freneau the poet sailed over
+the sea, actively aiding his country's cause by capturing British
+merchantmen and sinking British ships for a year, until in 1780<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">-53-</a></span> he
+had a ship of his own built. But on her first voyage disaster befell
+her, and almost within sight of land the <i>Aurora</i> was captured. When
+Philip Freneau next saw New York it was as a prisoner on the hulk
+<i>Scorpion</i>, as she lay anchored alongside another notorious
+prison-ship, the <i>Jersey</i>, close by the Battery shore.</p>
+
+<p>There never was such an energetic prisoner. Each moment was employed
+for his country, if not with his sword at least with his pen, which
+was quite as powerful a weapon.</p>
+
+<p><a name="PRISON_SHIP" id="PRISON_SHIP"></a>
+<img src="images/line53.png" width="189" height="97" alt="The British Prison-Ship" title="The British Prison-Ship" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In those days of wretched misery and suffering, within view of the
+city by day, in the noisome ship's hold by night, Freneau thought out
+his best-remembered poem, <i>The British Prison-Ship</i> and many another
+line which in the later days of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">-54-</a></span> the Revolution was to rouse American
+feeling; verse that was to be distributed to the American soldiers, to
+be read by them on the march and by the light of the camp-fires; lines
+that were to commemorate the victories and the heroism of the soldiers
+of the Revolution; lines ridiculing each separate act of the British.</p>
+
+<p>New York, in this time that the poet Freneau lay a prisoner, was not
+as it had been in his college days. The battle of Long Island had been
+fought, and Washington and his army had been driven from New York. And
+on the night of the British entry a great fire had started in the
+lower part of the city, swept away the house where Bradford's press
+had been, leaped across Broadway and laid Trinity Church a mass of
+ruins scattered over the churchyard where Freneau's father lay buried.</p>
+
+<p>The British soldiers were quartered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">-55-</a></span> in the public buildings; the
+British officers had taken possession of the houses deserted by
+wealthy patriots; the Middle Dutch Church, which had been the
+architectural pride of the city, had become a riding school for
+troopers.</p>
+
+<p><a name="DUTCH_CHURCH" id="DUTCH_CHURCH"></a>
+<img src="images/line55.png" width="165" height="231" alt="The Middle Dutch Church" title="The Middle Dutch Church" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>There was a red-painted wooden building in John Street, a few feet
+from Broadway, the only theatre in the city. The actors had closed it,
+and fled at the coming of the British. But the house was open again
+now, and the British officers played at mimic war between the
+intervals of real battles.</p>
+
+<p>No one threw himself more heartily into these performances than Major
+John André, who was so soon to give up his life for his country. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">-56-</a></span>
+even wrote some of the speeches used by the actors, and one of the
+poems he wrote for Rivington's <i>Gazetteer</i> was printed while he was
+away on his last mission, conferring with Benedict Arnold on the banks
+of the Hudson.</p>
+
+<p>After the treason was discovered, Arnold sought a safe retreat within
+the British lines at New York, and lived for a time in a solid,
+picturesque little house by the Bowling Green. It stood on a grassy
+slope that stretched down to the water's edge a few boat lengths from
+where the <i>Scorpion</i> lay with the poet prisoner on board.</p>
+
+<p>There was a picket fence, painted white, on one side of the green
+slope, and Sergeant John Champe once hid his men behind it to carry
+off Arnold when he should take his nightly walk by the waterside, an
+attempt that failed through Arnold's changing his quarters on the
+selfsame day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">-57-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the Revolution was over, Freneau was again in New York, which
+slowly recovered from the ravages of war. Hanover Square was a
+favorite haunt of his. He has left the record that he loved to linger
+in that open space, where might be seen a mingling of business and
+home life. Freneau liked it, for there books were printed and sold,
+and, too, it was the "Newspaper Row" of the town. This open space had
+been at first Van Brugh Street, taking its name from Johannes
+Pietersen Van Brugh, a wealthy Hollander whose home faced the square
+for close upon half a century. It bore his name until in 1714, when
+with the accession of George I. of Hanover it took the name of Hanover
+Square.</p>
+
+<p>In a house facing this square, Bradford printed the first newspaper,
+and though in Freneau's time it was still standing, a more stately
+building was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">-58-</a></span> to take its place and bear a tablet telling of the old
+one. It was here that the other early newspapers came into existence:
+Parker's <i>Weekly Post-Boy</i>, in 1742; Weyman's <i>New York Gazette</i>, in
+1759; Holt's <i>New York Journal</i>, in 1766. It was here, too, that was
+prominently displayed the "Sign of the Bible and Crown," before the
+house of Hugh Gaine. Freneau had flayed this man in his verse many a
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Gaine was an Irishman who published the <i>New York Mercury</i>, and
+changed his politics to whichever side was uppermost&mdash;Whig to-day,
+Tory to-morrow. He printed Freneau's satires against Great Britain as
+a Whig, and then as a Tory fell under the power of Freneau's pen, for
+Freneau hated inconstancy quite as much as he did Tory principles.</p>
+
+<p>Then there was close at hand the home of Rivington's <i>New York
+Ga<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">-59-</a></span>zetteer</i>. This Rivington, failing as a bookseller in London,
+planted his sign in Hanover Square and proudly proclaimed himself as
+the only London bookseller in America. He established his Tory
+newspaper, the <i>New York Gazetteer</i>, and had it wrecked by patriots,
+who threw the furniture out into Hanover Square and moulded the type
+into bullets. It was he who printed the poems of André; who after the
+war gave up a Tory paper and was strong for the cause of the new
+nation and was in consequence denounced by Freneau.</p>
+
+<p>Freneau smiled to see the signs of Gaine and Rivington changed to suit
+the views of the new republic and rivalling one another in their show
+of patriotism. Tempted into Gaine's bookstore by the display of
+volumes, he chanced upon a friend who called him by name. And old Hugh
+Gaine, turning slowly about at the sound of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">-60-</a></span> a name he knew so well,
+stared at the enemy he had never seen:</p>
+
+<p>"Is your name Freneau?" he asked. And the poet answered:</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, Philip Freneau."</p>
+
+<p>For just a moment the bookseller hesitated, then said:</p>
+
+<p>"I want to shake your hand; you have given me and my friend Rivington
+a lasting reputation."</p>
+
+<p>It was in one of these very bookstores that Freneau met Lindley Murray
+in the year after the peace was declared. From their first meeting the
+two were friends. Murray had accumulated a fortune as a salt merchant
+on Long Island during the British occupation. Strong patriot as
+Freneau was, he was attracted to the son at first through the memory
+of the parent, for it was Lindley Murray's mother, living on Murray
+Hill, who had saved Putnam's troops from being trapped by the British.
+The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">-61-</a></span> friendship of Freneau and Lindley Murray might have ripened,
+but that in the year after their meeting Murray went to England, where
+he was to devote himself, for his own amusement, to horticulture, in a
+pretty little garden beside his home near York, and where he wrote his
+famous grammar for a young ladies' school.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="WRITERS_1" id="WRITERS_1"></a>
+<img src="images/writers01.png" width="429" height="550" alt="writers" title="writers" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">
+1. WILLIAM SMITH.<br />
+2. PETER STUYVESANT.<br />
+3. PHILIP FRENEAU.<br />
+4. THOMAS PAINE.<br />
+5. JOEL BARLOW.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Even in the lifetime of Freneau, changes came to Hanover Square. For
+more than half a century it was the "Newspaper Row," then it gradually
+became the dry-goods district, then settled down to a general centre
+for wholesale houses. At one corner of the square lived for a time
+Jean Victor Moreau, the French General, after he had been banished for
+supposed participation in the plot of Cadoudal and Pichegru against
+the life of the First Consul.</p>
+
+<p><a name="FRAUNCES" id="FRAUNCES"></a>
+<img src="images/line62.png" width="223" height="135" alt="Fraunces&#39; Tavern" title="Fraunces&#39; Tavern" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the years that followed the Revolution, Freneau spent much of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">-62-</a></span>
+time in sea trips, but he was in the city again when George Washington
+took the oath of office as the first President of the United States at
+the Federal Hall in Wall Street; and was in the quaint St. Paul's
+Chapel, then quite a new structure, when Washington went there on the
+day of his inauguration. In the same year, Freneau lived for a time in
+Wall Street, close by the house where Alexander Hamilton lived, who in
+those days was a figure in literary New York by reason of his writing
+of the <i>Federalist</i> papers. That was thirteen years before Hamilton
+occupied his country house, "The Grange," far up the island, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">-63-</a></span>
+was to be still standing a hundred years later, when the city had
+crept up to and beyond it, and left it where One Hundred and
+Forty-first Street crosses Convent Avenue. Close by, in narrow Nassau
+Street, when Freneau lived in Wall, was the home of a man who had been
+his classmate in college. This was Aaron Burr. He, too, in a few
+years, was to leave the humble house in Nassau Street, to live in the
+Richmond Hill house, where the British Commissary Mortier had lived,
+and from which Burr walked forth on an eventful morning in 1804 to
+fight a mortal combat with Hamilton on the Jersey shore.</p>
+
+<p><a name="BROAD_2" id="BROAD_2"></a>
+<img src="images/line63.png" width="190" height="139" alt="Broad St. and Federal Hall" title="Broad St. and Federal Hall" class="floatr" /></p>
+
+<p>In 1791 Philip Freneau was in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">-64-</a></span> Philadelphia editing the <i>National
+Gazette</i>, the strongest political paper of his day, memorable for
+partisan abuse and for such bitter attacks on the administration that
+Washington alluded to its editor as "that rascal Freneau." The paper
+continued under Freneau until 1793, when he returned to New York for a
+time.</p>
+
+<p>In those days of 1793 there were three or four detached houses in
+Cedar Street close by Nassau. In the one nearest the corner, on any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">-65-</a></span>
+day of the week a man, slender and tall, with eyes that were keen and
+gray, with dress always in perfect taste, with broad-brimmed hat and
+queue, could be seen. He came from this house and walked over to
+Broadway, and his neighbors watched regularly for his going and his
+coming. He was Noah Webster, editor of <i>The Minerva</i>, a paper at that
+time devoted to the support of President Washington's administration.
+His name was to become a household word, for his paper became the
+<i>Commercial Advertiser</i> (that lived and throve even in the twentieth
+century), and after he had left the city he wrote a world-famed
+dictionary.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="RICHMOND" id="RICHMOND"></a>
+<img src="images/line64.png" width="330" height="221" alt="Richmond Hill" title="Richmond Hill" />
+</p>
+
+<p>The poetic muse hovered closest about Philip Freneau in the days of
+stirring scenes and momentous events. The Poet of the Revolution was
+less active when quieter days came. Still he continued to pass a life
+of restless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">-66-</a></span> energy, and lived far into another century and long after
+many another writer had arisen to eclipse him in the literary life of
+New York.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">-67-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_IV" id="Chapter_IV"></a>Chapter IV<br />
+In the Days of Thomas Paine</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">W</span>HEN the eighteenth century was within two years of its close, a group
+of men, perhaps half a dozen in all, made up the writers of New York.</p>
+
+<p>The city then lay between the park (a name that had just been bestowed
+upon the Common of old) and the Battery; with Broadway, the main
+thoroughfare of the town, sending out tendrils of narrow streets to
+tangle and turn about themselves in such persistent fashion that they
+were never to be straightened out. Quite abruptly, where the park
+began, Broadway dwindled from a street to a lane, but with a strong
+branch thoroughfare to the east which, with the advent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">-68-</a></span> of years, was
+to become Park Row. It was not a new thoroughfare by any means, since,
+as far back as the days of the Dutch Governors, it had been the one
+road that led up through the forested island.</p>
+
+<p>There faced the road, and so quite of necessity faced the park as
+well, a square building, its front so taken up with windows and doors
+as to cause wonder that there should be any pretence whatsoever of a
+front wall. Not an attractive building, with these many windows always
+staring, like eyes, across the road into the park, but one to be
+remembered because, for one reason or another, it could well be called
+the literary centre of the town. Here it stood, the first Park
+Theatre, towering above its neighbors, glistening in its newness.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="CORNERSTONE" id="CORNERSTONE"></a>
+<img src="images/line69.png" width="355" height="500" alt="The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre" title="The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center" style="line-height: 1.2">
+<b>The corner stone of<br />
+this Theatre was laid<br />
+on the 5th day of May<br />
+AD 1795</b>
+</p>
+
+<table style="line-height: 1.2em" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="cornerstone">
+<tr>
+<td><b>Jacob Morton<br />
+W<span class="super">m</span> Henderson<br />
+Carlile Pollock</b></td>
+<td><span class="xxlg">}</span></td>
+<td><b>Commissioners</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><b>Lewis Hallem<br />
+John Hodgkinson</b></td>
+<td><span class="xlg">}</span></td>
+<td><b>managers</b></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="centerbp"><b>PARK THEATRE</b></p>
+
+<p>It was rare in the days when the Park Theatre was new, just as it is
+rare nowadays, for writers to be of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">-69-</a></span> practical turn of mind. But in
+this little group, oddly enough, there was one man of business. He was
+the proprietor of the theatre, and although he wrote plays, and
+painted pictures,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">-70-</a></span> and wrote books, William Dunlap was a man of
+affairs. His home was around the corner in quiet Ann Street, which in
+another hundred years came to be a very noisy street indeed, crowded
+with venders of every sort of odds and ends that can be imagined. A
+block away, around another corner in Beekman Street, on the south side
+below Nassau, was Dunlap's home when he had given up the theatre,
+settled down to literature, and got to writing his important books,
+the <i>American Theatre</i> and the <i>History, Rise, and Progress of the
+Arts of Design in the United States</i>. While he was yet managing the
+theatre, Dunlap's favorite strolling-place was up along the parkside,
+past the Brick Church, and so on a few steps across Nassau Street to
+where Spruce Street has its start. On any pleasant afternoon he could
+be found standing on that corner, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">-71-</a></span> a time at least, before the
+door of Martling's Tavern, where the Tammany Society had its first
+home. Looking at that first Wigwam after this lapse of time, it seems
+picturesque enough, and it must in truth have been so, for the enemies
+of the Tammany Society were in the habit of referring to it as the
+"Pig-pen." A frame building, low, rough, and unpainted, with a
+bar-room at one end, a kitchen at the other, and between the two a
+"long room," some steps lower than the general floor,&mdash;that was
+Martling's.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="TAMMANY" id="TAMMANY"></a>
+<img src="images/tammany.png" width="500" height="314" alt="THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM" title="THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND SPRUCE
+STREETS.</p>
+
+<p>In the tap-room at Martling's, after an evening in which the untimely
+death of George Frederick Cooke had been discussed, Dunlap announced
+his intention of writing a life of his actor-friend, who then lay in a
+new-made grave in St. Paul's Churchyard. The book was written, and
+though few remember the volume<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">-72-</a></span> now, it was widely read and served to
+keep alive the actor's memory. Since that time the grave has been
+cared for, and the marble tombstone, later erected by Edmund Kean,
+still stands amid the bushes close by the entrance door of the Chapel.</p>
+
+<p>It was in the year 1810 that Cooke played at the Park Theatre, the
+first foreign "star" to come to the city and to attract the
+townspeople in such wise that they almost mobbed the playhouse in
+their efforts to see him. It was this same Cooke, who, hearing many
+speak of a young actor who had played there the year before, said, "I
+should have liked to have seen this Payne of yours." Cooke saw him the
+next year, and they appeared together in this same Park Theatre, Payne
+playing Edgar to Cooke's Lear.</p>
+
+<p>The name of John Howard Payne did not then have the significance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">-73-</a></span> that
+it came to have later. For he was known only as a youth who had acted
+Norval in the tragedy of <i>Douglas</i> with such fiery earnestness as to
+be proclaimed the "Young American Roscius." Who could have foreseen
+that adventurous "boy actor" grown to manhood, and writing a song that
+was to live and be known the world over by reason of its appeal to all
+hearts?</p>
+
+<p>In Pearl Street, scarce a foot of which is left untrod by the
+footsteps of the writers of the city, Payne was born. Around the
+modest house that bore the number 33, near to Whitehall Street, he
+first toddled with baby steps, and the nearby "broad" street, where
+the canal had been, was his first journey when he could walk. His
+parents moved to East Hampton, on Long Island, so early in his
+childhood, and so many of his childish days were passed in the fields
+there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">-74-</a></span> while his father taught school in the Clinton Academy, that
+East Hampton is often spoken of as the place of his birth. But for all
+that the "lowly thatched cottage" of his song was there, and for all
+that much of his later life was passed in foreign countries, Payne
+loved the city of his birth and took occasion many times to say so.</p>
+
+<p>In London, when ill-luck bore hardest upon him, he wrote <i>Clari, the
+Maid of Milan</i>, and gave <i>Home, Sweet Home</i> to the heroine as her
+principal song. He received the honors of New York when he returned
+for a brief period, twenty-two years after his boyish triumph at the
+Park Theatre, and was so affectionately remembered that when, a decade
+later, he died in far-away Tunis, it was felt that he should not be
+left in a foreign land. But, although this sentiment was strong, it
+was not until<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">-75-</a></span> 1883 that his body was brought to America. Then, for a
+day, the coffin lay in state in the City Hall, in the Governor's Room,
+close by a window from which a view could be had of where the old Park
+Theatre had stood, just across the stretch of green sward. And the
+people, in honor of the man whose one song had thrilled an entire
+world, filed past the sealed coffin by the thousands, and shed many a
+tear that day.</p>
+
+<p>One of the tortuous streets springing from Broadway, starting close by
+Trinity Church, winding away to the east, and mingling with other
+streets until brought to an abrupt halt by the river, was called, and
+is still called, Pine Street. In the first days of the nineteenth
+century it bore no suggestion, save in name, of a forest that once
+stretched above the city. In those good old days when the Dutch held
+full sway, Cornelius van<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">-76-</a></span> Tienhoven was the bookkeeper of the West
+India Company, and when he married the step-daughter of Jan Jansen
+Damen, the bride brought him as dower a slice of this forest. When,
+later, a clearing was cut through the wood it was called Tienhoven's
+Street. But such a name rang too strongly Dutch for those who served
+an English king, and when the English came they quickly called it King
+Street. And so it remained until after the Revolution, when, in
+remembrance of the Dutch forest, the name was changed to Pine Street.</p>
+
+<p>Now, whether it was pure accident or whether he searched and found the
+prettiest street in all the town, it is nevertheless a fact that here
+Dr. Elihu Hubbard Smith had fixed his home, scarce more than a block
+from Trinity Church, and here he wrote much of his verse. Here, too,
+in his house, on many a Tuesday evening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">-77-</a></span> met the Friendly Club, and
+at these meetings, following the custom of the club from the time that
+Washington lived in the city, each member in turn read a passage from
+some favorite author, thus giving impetus to the conversation. In Dr.
+Smith's parlor, joining in these discussions, sat William Dunlap,
+Charles Brockden Brown, James Kent, Joseph Dennie, and all the writers
+of the circle. It was Dr. Smith who wrote the prologue for the Park
+Theatre upon its opening, and not a member of the Friendly Club but
+attended the first performance.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp">
+<a name="MAP" id="MAP"></a>
+<img src="images/map.png" width="331" height="500" alt="MAP" title="MAP" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="images/map_lg.png">Enlarge</a>]</p>
+
+<p class="caption">MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827.</p>
+
+<p>It is small wonder that Charles Brockden Brown was the foremost member
+of the club. He had just claim. Thrusting aside criticism and advice,
+ignoring the fact that he was an invalid facing the hardship that must
+be overcome, he stood forth as the first writer in America to support<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">-78-</a></span>
+himself by his pen alone. The Bar, even though there was ever so fair
+a prospect of his earning a living by it, could not attract him
+against his natural desire. The writings of this determined genius
+could not but be successful. Seeking no friends, but having many,
+preferring the single companionship of Dr. Smith, with whom he lived,
+Charles Brockden Brown wrote his novel, <i>Wieland</i>, and followed it in
+the next three years with <i>Ormond</i>, <i>Edgar Huntley</i>, <i>Arthur Mervyn</i>,
+<i>Jane Talbot</i>, and <i>Clara Howard</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">-79-</a></span> Many a man of the pen, in
+admiration of the iron will of this first American novelist, finds a
+delight in thinking of him and in following his footsteps along Pine
+Street and the lower end of Broadway to the Battery.</p>
+
+<p><a name="POST_OFFICE" id="POST_OFFICE"></a>
+<img src="images/line78.png" width="169" height="213" alt="The Post Office, William St." title="The Post Office, William St." class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the days of bereavement following the death of Dr. Smith, the
+companion of Brown's solitude was Joseph Dennie. Often in the
+intervals of work they wandered through the quiet park, and many a
+time they knelt together in the Brick Church, a square beyond the Park
+Theatre, with the memory of their dead companion strong upon them. The
+shadow of their friend's death was still over them when they parted,
+and Joseph Dennie went to Philadelphia to start his magazine, <i>The
+Portfolio</i>, which was to cause the name of "The Lay Preacher" to ring
+through the land. He was in Philadelphia when Brown,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">-80-</a></span> in 1803, started
+<i>The Literary Magazine and American Register</i>. But the next year he
+was in New York again, occasionally joining in a literary partnership
+in which there was a third member now, for Brown had married the
+daughter of Dr. Linn, the Presbyterian minister. The years rolled on,
+and Brown sought to fight off death by terrific work. But death only
+clutched him the tighter. The strolls with Elizabeth, his
+gentle-hearted wife, grew shorter and shorter and less frequent, until
+they ceased altogether six years after his marriage, and another
+landmark in the literary history of the city had gone down.</p>
+
+<p>There was one stately and studious member of the Friendly Club who, it
+is recorded, could seldom be persuaded to go to the Park Theatre
+except on the "great nights." James Kent, then a Professor of Law at
+Columbia College, when not at work<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">-81-</a></span> (those were rare moments indeed),
+loved best to wander over the College grounds. These are now lost
+beyond all tracing in the overcrowding between the City Hall and
+Hudson River. Then it was a delightful country spot. When Professor
+Kent did not walk on the College grounds by the riverside, he strolled
+up Broadway past the hospital with his friend, Dr. David Hosack, and
+the two discussed at length the Elgin Botanical Garden that the
+physician had just laid out three miles above the city. It was this
+James Kent who came to be Chancellor of New York and whose memory
+lives in his <i>Commentaries on American Law</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the city, separated from it in summer by a mile of marshy and
+untilled land, in winter by a dreary waste with a single road leading
+across a snow-bound way, lay the village of Greenwich. A dreamy little
+country<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">-82-</a></span> place that had been an Indian village before the settling of
+New Amsterdam; with lines of peaked-roof houses on zig-zagged lanes,
+and now and again, in the midst of a farm-like garden, a rambling
+house of stone, with great square windows and gables enough for half a
+dozen houses. The village might have been thousands of miles away from
+New York for all the likeness it bore to it.</p>
+
+<p>On a dusty and rarely travelled lane, that led from the village
+towards the city, lived a man who had won the hearts of Americans by
+writing <i>Common Sense</i>, but who lived to reap their hatred by writing
+<i>The Age of Reason</i>, a deistic argument against Christianity. In the
+quiet village his house was pointed out as the abode of a friendless
+man, and when they spoke of him the villagers whispered the dread
+name&mdash;Tom Paine.</p>
+
+<p>There he lived with Madame Bon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">-83-</a></span>neville and her two sons, the only
+companions he cared to have near him save his own thoughts. In that
+picturesque spot he was fully content to pass his final days in
+solitude and marked contrast to a life of energy and excitement.</p>
+
+<p>It is close upon a century since that time, and the pilgrim feet that
+seek to follow Paine through Greenwich Village must walk Bleecker
+Street (the dusty lane in much changed form), must pass Grove Street,
+and the fourth house from the corner, on the north side, walking
+towards the east, is Paine's. It was humble enough in the days when he
+lived there. It is far humbler now in contrast to the buildings that
+have grown up about it. A two-story frame house, the ground floor is
+made into a store, as though it made an effort to keep up with the
+business character of the street. Two brick structures<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">-84-</a></span> rise above it
+on each side and seem to have forced the roof to a frightful angle, so
+different is it from its new neighbors. Once Joel Barlow went to see
+Paine there, and the two spent almost an entire day beside a front
+window, talking of many things. Paine recalled the troublous days of
+the French Revolution, when he had written his <i>Age of Reason</i> in the
+prison of the Luxembourg, and had given it to Barlow to find a
+publisher. The author of the <i>Columbiad</i> often spoke of the visit
+later.</p>
+
+<p>The dusty road where the house stood, even though it was little
+travelled, came to be too noisy a place for Paine, for in his illness
+even the chance passer-by irritated him. So he moved away to a house
+in a nearby field, so far from the road that he found absolute quiet.
+In after days Grove Street swept this home away, and another building,
+numbered 59,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">-85-</a></span> is pointed out as the place where Paine died shortly
+after his removal.</p>
+
+<p>The hatred of many people followed Thomas Paine even after death, and
+there could be no rest for an advocate of infidel opinions in a town
+where dwelt descendants of stern Huguenots. His body was taken to New
+Rochelle, and there, refused burial in hallowed ground, was finally
+laid to rest outside the town, in a corner of the farm given to him by
+the State in recognition of his services in the cause of the colonies
+against the mother country. Ten years later, William Cobbett, the
+English Radical, an ardent admirer of Paine, visited New Rochelle,
+and, seeing the neglected grave by the wayside, had the bones dug up
+one night and spirited away to England. In another twenty years the
+followers of Thomas Paine had grown in number, and the Paine
+Historical Society<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">-86-</a></span> erected a monument over the empty grave by the
+roadside. But on this spot, where no rest had been permitted him in
+life or in death, it seems rather to mock than to bless his grave.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">-87-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_V" id="Chapter_V"></a>Chapter V<br />
+The City that Irving Knew</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">S</span>TRETCHING from Broadway towards the east, starting from the
+ivy-covered walls of the Chapel of St. Paul&mdash;here lay the scenes of
+Washington Irving's childhood. Golden Hill was the name given to this
+district, long before Irving was born; called so because of its golden
+appearance in the autumn days. It was a wondrously beautiful place,
+and set squarely upon the hill-top was an inn that, in the days of the
+Revolution, came to be a meeting-place for patriots. Even now, when
+the glories of Golden Hill seem quite forgotten, there are those who
+love to walk its crowded ways, and who firmly believe that it came by
+its name in prophecy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">-88-</a></span> of the golden flower of literature one day to be
+born close by it.</p>
+
+<p><a name="GOLDEN" id="GOLDEN"></a>
+<img src="images/line88.png" width="127" height="230" alt="Golden Hill Inn" title="Golden Hill Inn" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>The lane that once had its course up the grain-covered hill is there
+yet; now, a crowded, dismal thoroughfare bearing the name of William
+Street. It is well to start with this old lane, partly because it is
+the oldest street in the Golden Hill district, and partly because the
+Golden Hill inn of old still stands upon it: a squatty building built
+of narrow bricks that were brought from Holland, with a tall chimney
+like none of its neighbors; a venerable house full of cracks and
+crevices, carved mantels, open fireplaces, wide doorways; made over to
+conform to modern business ideas, but not conform<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">-89-</a></span>ing to these very
+well; painted and patched up to look new, but looking quite its age to
+any one with half an eye for architecture.</p>
+
+<p>Almost opposite this inn of Golden Hill, midway of the block between
+Fulton and John streets, there stood in the year 1783 a quaint little
+two-storied dwelling with high-backed roof. One morning the patrons of
+the inn had a bit to gossip about. It was a year for gossip anyway,
+for the War of the Revolution was near its close. The talk was of a
+child that had been born to the Irving family over the way, and who
+was to be called Washington in honor of the man so well named the
+"Father of his Country." Before another year the Irving family moved
+into a house next to the inn on the north and separated from it only
+by a garden. In this house Washington Irving spent his youth. Close by
+he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">-90-</a></span> baptized, in the Chapel of St. George. The Chapel is gone now,
+but where Beekman Street crosses Cliff, on the front of a building
+appear in raised letters the words "St. George Building," that show
+the spot where it once stood.</p>
+
+<p>Not far off is the place where the John Street Theatre was, where
+Irving went with his friend James K. Paulding, who was himself to make
+a name in the literature of the city. Irving's parents were not given
+to theatre-going, but Irving, when the family prayers had been said
+and he had been sent to bed, ofttimes crept out of the gable window,
+slid down the slanting roof, dropped to the ground, and stole away. He
+went, just as now following in his footsteps you can go, past the old
+inn, around the next corner where, on a house wall, is a tablet
+reciting the departed glories of Golden Hill, then on a few steps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">-91-</a></span>
+until you reach, close by Broadway, a dreary arcade. Walk through the
+arcade and you will find it heavy with the sounds of workmen and
+machines. The arcade was a covered way leading to the playhouse, and
+is all that remains of the theatre.</p>
+
+<p><a name="CHAPEL" id="CHAPEL"></a>
+<img src="images/line91.png" width="179" height="315" alt="St. George&#39;s Chapel, Beekman St." title="St. George&#39;s Chapel, Beekman St." class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Two minutes' walk away in Ann Street was Mrs. Ann Kilmaster's school,
+where Irving studied. Ann Street is only three blocks long and far
+from an inviting spot at any point, but here, in the last block of its
+length, it dwindles to half the width it had in starting.</p>
+
+<p>A score of steps from the school,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">-92-</a></span> at the northwest corner of Ann
+Street and William, Irving lived with his mother after his father's
+death. The house is no longer there, but there is one just like it
+five houses farther along William Street, that stood there in Irving's
+time.</p>
+
+<p>In the Ann Street house, when he was a law clerk, he did his first
+writing, the sketches signed "Jonathan Oldstyle," and published in the
+<i>Morning Chronicle</i>, which was conducted by his brother Peter. From
+this house, while still a lad, he loved to wander down the streets
+that stretched over the eastern slope of Golden Hill, and spent hours
+on the piers watching the ships loading and unloading, dreaming of the
+foreign ports where they had touched, hoping that he might one day see
+the shores of those far-away lands. For even in his boyhood the
+longing for travel was strong upon him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">-93-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>He was still a law clerk, and still living in this Ann Street house,
+when he sat in an upper room with his brother William and James K.
+Paulding, and they planned a magazine of their own. They went to see
+David Longworth, the printer, in his shop beside the Park
+Theatre,&mdash;"Dusky Davie" they called him, after a song that was popular
+at the time,&mdash;and after many conferences and much secret doing the
+three stripling writers started the sparkling <i>Salmagundi</i> on its way,
+with the avowed purpose "to instruct the young, reform the old,
+correct the town, and castigate the age." Paulding was the "Launcelot
+Langstaff" of the publication, and William Irving was "Pindar
+Cockloft" the poet.</p>
+
+<p>To the west of Golden Hill, Cortlandt Street extends to the river. In
+a house on that street close by Broadway, the three writers of
+<i>Salmagundi</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">-94-</a></span> spent much time at the home of the Fairlie sisters.
+There lived Mary Fairlie, known to <i>Salmagundi</i> readers as "Sophia
+Sparkle," and who married Cooper the tragic actor.</p>
+
+<p>In the Ann Street house most of the <i>Knickerbocker History of New
+York</i> was written. Washington Irving and his brother Peter were to
+write it as an extravagant burlesque on Dr. Samuel Mitchill's <i>Picture
+of New York</i>, then a very popular and learned work. But Peter Irving
+was forced to Europe by ill health in 1808, and Washington settled
+down to the history, changing its plan and scope. Ten minutes' walk to
+the north of where Irving lived in Ann Street is a little park&mdash;a
+green spot that has taken the place of the squalid Mulberry Bend slum.
+In Mulberry Street opposite the park was the location of the imaginary
+Independent Columbian Hotel where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">-95-</a></span> Dietrich Knickerbocker was supposed
+to have lived, and left his manuscript in payment of his board bill.</p>
+
+<p>But by far the most important house connected with this part of
+Irving's life is gone now. This was in Broadway where Leonard Street
+now crosses. A square house of many rooms, indeed it was a mansion in
+the city of 1809. Here lived Josiah Ogden Hoffman, the protector of
+the youthful author, in whose office Irving came by his law training.
+In the Hoffman mansion, Irving courted Matilda Hoffman, the lawyer's
+fair daughter; here he saw her sicken and grow more feeble day by day;
+here she died, and so ended the romance of his life. He never
+mentioned her name in after days and could not bear to hear it spoken.
+But she lived in his memory, and he never married. In the depths of
+his seclusion, during the first months of his sorrow, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">-96-</a></span> finished the
+<i>History</i>. But his heart was not in the laughter of the book, and he
+made joy for others out of his own sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>Two years after this, Irving was living beside the Bowling Green, at
+16 Broadway, with his friend, Henry Brevoort, at the house of Mrs.
+Ryckman. While here he edited the <i>Analectic Magazine</i>. From here he
+often strolled up Broadway as far as Cortlandt Street, to dine at the
+house of Jane Renwick, then passing her widowhood in the city. Her son
+became the Professor James Renwick of Columbia College. It was she of
+whom Burns sang as <i>The Blue-Eyed Lassie</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Still another house knew the Irving of early days, the boarding-house
+of Mrs. Brandish, at Greenwich and Rector streets, where he went from
+Bowling Green. It was a pretty brick building on a quiet street then,
+but it is a gloomy-enough place to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">-97-</a></span> look upon now, darkened by the
+Elevated Railroad and overrun with hoards of noisy children and
+tenement dwellers; a strange spot to look for memories of the
+gentle-hearted Irving.</p>
+
+<p>When Irving left New York in 1815, it was with no intention of
+remaining away any length of time. In England he wrote <i>Rip Van
+Winkle</i>, though he had never been in the Catskills, where the scene of
+his classic lay. In Paris he met John Howard Payne, and the two worked
+together, in the Rue Richelieu, adapting French plays to English
+representation&mdash;but this partnership came to little. He went to Spain
+and there, while writing the <i>Life and Voyages of Columbus</i>, he met a
+young man then fitting himself by travel to enter on the duties of
+Professor of Modern Languages in Bowdoin College. This was Henry W.
+Longfellow, unknown then as a poet. While in Spain, Irving occupied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">-98-</a></span>
+the Governor's quarters in the Alhambra, an otherwise deserted palace,
+abiding there in a kind of Oriental dream, and living over in
+imagination the <i>Conquest of Granada</i>. Back in London again as
+Secretary of the Legation to the Court of St. James, he arranged his
+material for the <i>Voyages of the Companions of Columbus</i>, and half a
+dozen other works. Then, after seventeen years of wandering, he
+returned to his native city.</p>
+
+<p>Although he tells us that his heart throbbed at sight of New York, and
+that in all his travels he had seen no place that caused such a thrill
+of joy, it was no longer the city of his youth. He had left a town of
+one hundred thousand people and found a city of two hundred thousand.
+The companions of his youth had grown to be men, and many of them were
+renowned in literature and business life. He found streets grown long
+out of all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">-99-</a></span> remembrance, houses tall beyond all knowing, strangers who
+knew him simply as a name. He found many silent graves where he had
+left blooming youth. But for all this there were many ready and
+anxious to do him honor.</p>
+
+<p>A few steps beyond Trinity Churchyard on Broadway is a narrow
+thoroughfare called Thames Street. It is easy to be found, and beside
+it is a tall building on which is a tablet relating how the Burns's
+Coffee-House once stood on the spot. This had been a mansion built by
+Étienne De Lancey, a Huguenot noble, and Thames Street was the
+carriage-way that led to the door. In this coffee-house the merchants
+of the city signed the Non-Importation Agreement in the days before
+the Revolution.</p>
+
+<p><a name="HOTEL" id="HOTEL"></a>
+<img src="images/line101.png" width="180" height="228" alt="The City Hotel" title="The City Hotel" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>When Irving returned to the city the coffee-house was gone, and on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">-100-</a></span>
+its site was the City Hotel, the main hostelry of the city. Here the
+chief citizens gathered and a banquet was held and all honor paid to
+the "illustrious guest, thrice welcome to his native city."</p>
+
+<p>From the site of this old house, it is a pleasant walk down Broadway,
+past the Bowling Green to Bridge Street, where, at No. 3, Irving,
+after his return, went to live with his brother Ebenezer, who had been
+the Captain Greatheart of "Cockloft Hall." Here, in this home, Irving
+spent many happy days. It was called by him "the family hive," for it
+was always filled to overflowing with relatives.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="WRITERS_2" id="WRITERS_2"></a>
+<img src="images/writers02.png" width="403" height="550" alt="writers" title="writers" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">
+1. JAMES KIRKE PAULDING.<br />
+2. PHILIP HONE.<br />
+3. WASHINGTON IRVING.<br />
+4. JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE.<br />
+5. FITZ GREENE HALLECK.<br />
+6. J. FENIMORE COOPER.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>But one place above all others in New York is filled with the memory
+of Irving. This is a bit of ground on the east side of the city, a
+point of land stretching out into the river. Here of all places the
+spirit of Irving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">-101-</a></span> still lingers, for here of all places it is less
+changed in appearance since his feet trod the ground. In Irving's day
+it was a stretch of countryside with summer houses of the wealthy at
+long distances facing the river. Now, though the city has encompassed
+it, there is still left the one green spot by the riverside beyond
+Eighty-eighth Street. The East River Park they call it, and there are
+rough stone steps leading to the waterside, winding paths and
+overhanging trees&mdash;the trees that Irving stood beneath. And there,
+across the stretch of water, is Hell Gate, its tempestuous waters
+tamed by the hand of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">-102-</a></span> man, but nevertheless the same Hell Gate that
+Irving looked upon and that Irving wrote about. Part of this park were
+the grounds of John Jacob Astor, the friend of Irving. His house stood
+beyond the park, where Eighty-eighth Street now touches East End
+Avenue,&mdash;a square two-story frame dwelling of colonial type, painted
+white, with deep veranda, wide halls, and spacious rooms; set high
+upon a hill, backed by a forest of towering trees, and fronted by a
+vast lawn stretching by gentle slope to the cliff at the riverside.
+Here Irving was a guest, and wrote <i>Astoria</i>, telling of Astor's
+settlement on the Columbia River and of scenes beyond the Rockies;
+here he met Captain Bonneville and his friends, and the journals of
+the one and thrilling tales of the other gave material for the
+<i>Adventures of Captain Bonneville</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">-103-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The house of Astor is gone now, but within the limits of this park
+still stands the home of Gracie, the merchant, where Irving was a
+constant visitor, and where, in the rooms given over to stranger
+hands, still linger memories of Paulding and Halleck, Bancroft and
+Drake, and a host of others.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="ASTORIA" id="ASTORIA"></a>
+<img src="images/line103.png" width="461" height="284" alt="The House of Astor where Irving wrote &quot;Astoria&quot;" title="The House of Astor where Irving wrote &quot;Astoria&quot;" />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was while working on <i>Astoria</i> that Irving began the building of
+Wolfert's Roost, the Van Tassel house of the <i>Legend of Sleepy
+Hollow</i>, on that delightful spot on the Hudson<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">-104-</a></span> which in the first
+days of Irving's residence there was called Dearman. In after time the
+name was changed to Irvington, in his honor, and Wolfert's Roost, in
+honor of the glorious country, became Sunnyside. It is Sunnyside to
+this day, altered by additions made in the intervening years, but
+still the house of Irving; and the ivy clinging to its walls has
+sprung from a root taken from the ruins of Scott's "fair Melrose" and
+planted where it now grows by the friendly hand of Jane Renwick.</p>
+
+<p><a name="IRVING" id="IRVING"></a>
+<img src="images/line104.png" width="230" height="218" alt="Where Irving lived&mdash;17th St. and Irving Place" title="Where Irving lived&mdash;17th St. and Irving Place" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>On the corner of Seventeenth Street and Irving Place (a thoroughfare
+to which his memory gave a name), late in life, Irving lived betimes.
+Here was once the home of John T. Irving, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">-105-</a></span> nephew of the author. It
+is a sturdy house still, and looks as youthful as its neighbors that
+were built many a day after it. Then it stood quite alone in a stretch
+of country. From the windows of the large room on the ground floor,
+Irving could see the waters of the East River. In this room he wrote
+portions of <i>Oliver Goldsmith</i>, parts, too, of the <i>Life of Mahomet</i>,
+and arranged the notes of what was to be his last book&mdash;the <i>Life of
+Washington</i>.</p>
+
+<p>But his real home was Sunnyside, and there, in the year 1859, when he
+was seventy-six years old, he died.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">-106-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VI" id="Chapter_VI"></a>Chapter VI<br />
+With Paulding, Drake, and Halleck</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">I</span>N the summer of 1797, a tall, well-built lad with a face showing just
+a suggestion of melancholy, landed from the weekly market sloop and
+walked along the streets of New York for the first time. He was a
+country boy, well versed in trees and brooks and used to pathless
+hills and rough country roads, and his first impression of New York
+was that the dwellers there were great lumpkins. He could not imagine
+why they pointed at him and nodded at him and laughed as he walked in
+the middle of the street, quite disregarding the paved walk. He
+stopped, from time to time, to ask his way,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">-107-</a></span> until he came to a little
+square brick house in Vesey Street, below Church, bearing the number
+43, the home of William Irving. There he went in and was given a good
+hug by Mrs. Irving. The boy was James Kirke Paulding, and she who
+welcomed him was his sister, with whom he was to live until he should
+get a start in the ways and work of the city.</p>
+
+<p>William Irving lived in a house delightfully situated, though no one
+would think so now when the spot is jammed with merchants' warehouses,
+and sounds of trade fill the air. When Paulding came to town, it was
+beyond the ken of the business section, and there were not so many
+houses about but that he could enjoy an inviting view. From the front
+door he looked straight before him over the grounds of Columbia
+College, and to the left across green gardens to the river. From his
+little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">-108-</a></span> window in the upper story he saw the city to the south, and to
+the east St. Paul's Chapel, with the steeple that came to be so gray
+with age looking then so new, for it had just been added to the
+church. Beyond the graveyard and across Broadway, he had a good view
+of the park with its three buildings&mdash;the Bridewell, the Almshouse,
+and the Prison,&mdash;and across the park could see the Park Theatre and
+the Brick Church. He could catch a glimpse of Broadway winding over a
+hill toward the Stone Bridge at Canal Street, and other roads leading
+into the country towards the north, where level stretches led past
+rude farmhouses and quaint inns.</p>
+
+<p>The first few years of Paulding in the city, when he was clerk in the
+United States Loan Office, were years of hard work. But there were
+relaxations, too, for his relationship to William Irving brought him
+in contact<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">-109-</a></span> with the other members of the family&mdash;young Washington
+Irving and Dr. Peter Irving. When, in a few years, Dr. Irving
+published his newspaper, the <i>Morning Chronicle</i>, Paulding wrote bits
+of prose and verse for it. So his first writings appeared in the same
+publication and at the same time as the first writings of Washington
+Irving, and it was the interchange of thought in the Vesey Street
+house and the opportunities afforded by the <i>Morning Chronicle</i> that
+led Paulding's thoughts towards writing as a profession.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime there was much going on in the way of improvement. The new
+City Hall was erected in the park; the first free schoolhouse was
+opened; and Fulton's <i>Clermont</i> sailed up the Hudson, the first
+successful steamboat. A commission had been appointed, too, with the
+object of directing the course of the streets,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">-110-</a></span> which up to that time
+had grown out of the paths left by the cows in their wanderings to
+pasture. The commissioners did their work so that, as time went on,
+the highways were laid out to form a city of strict right angles. The
+cows certainly did their part in a manner that left far more
+picturesque twists and turns than were to be found in the upper part
+laid out by the commissioners in such a scientifically uninteresting
+way.</p>
+
+<p>Paulding lived with William Irving in the Vesey Street house for nine
+years, and then the Irvings moved a few blocks the other side of
+Columbia College, to 287 Greenwich Street, and Paulding went with
+them. Here began the meetings of a literary set, which in a few months
+developed into the "Ancient Club of New York," with Washington, Peter,
+and William Irving, Paulding, Henry Brevoort, and Gouverneur Kemble<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">-111-</a></span>
+leading members. Kemble owned some land in New Jersey, on which was
+located <i>Salmagundi's</i> Cockloft Hall, and on this account was called
+"The Patroon." From one of the informal meetings of the Ancient Club,
+Washington Irving, his brother William, and Paulding went secretly to
+Irving's house in Ann Street to discuss details of <i>Salmagundi</i>.
+Paulding wrote his share of <i>Salmagundi</i> on the upper floor of the
+Greenwich Street house, while the lower floor was the mill of Pindar
+Cockloft, conducted by William Irving.</p>
+
+<p>From this house on many an evening the friends went to dine at Dyde's,
+the fascinating eating-house near the Park Theatre, then beginning a
+long career with the founders of <i>Salmagundi</i> as a foundation for the
+memories that were to cluster around its doors, to be passed over,
+years later, to Windust's still more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">-112-</a></span> famous resort on almost the same
+spot.</p>
+
+<p>Paulding was still living with the Irving family when, in 1807, they
+went to live at No. 17 in aristocratic State Street, at the corner of
+Pearl, facing the Battery Park. Here, overlooking the blue waters of
+the bay dotted with sailboats and rowboats, and beyond to the
+stretches of Jersey shore, Paulding wrote his contributions to the
+<i>Analectic Magazine</i>, edited by Washington Irving from his home little
+more than a stone's throw away across the Bowling Green; also, <i>The
+Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan</i>. Here, too,
+replying to an attack on his country, he wrote, <i>The United States and
+England</i>, a pamphlet that attracted the notice of President Madison,
+who summoned Paulding to Washington for eight years as Secretary of
+the Board of Navy Commis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">-113-</a></span>sioners. During those eight years he wrote
+<i>The Backwoodsman</i> his longest poem and the one which he liked best of
+all, a liking not generally shared by his readers; the second series
+of <i>Salmagundi</i>; and <i>Koningsmarke</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Having married Gertrude, the sister of his friend and companion
+Gouverneur Kemble, his days were moving smoothly along when the death
+of his wife's father took him again to New York and he went to live in
+what had long been the home of "The Patroon." This was a mansion of
+solid type in Whitehall Street, corner of Stone, set in the midst of a
+wide-spreading garden, a site blurred out in later days by the Produce
+Exchange. Here he lived during the fourteen years he acted as Navy
+Agent at New York, devoting his evenings to literary work, writing his
+most successful book, <i>The Dutchman's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">-114-</a></span> Fireside</i>, also <i>John Bull in
+America</i>, <i>Tales of the Good Woman</i>, and <i>Westward Ho!</i> In the evening
+he went often to the Park Theatre, and came to know James H. Hackett,
+the greatest Falstaff America had seen, writing for him <i>The Lion of
+the West</i>, which Hackett acted for many years. And then after fifteen
+years in this house he left it, and with his family went to Washington
+as Secretary of the Navy.</p>
+
+<p>Once more, in 1841, he returned to New York, to live in Beach Street,
+then the fashionable St. John's Park neighborhood. But, his wife dying
+before he was really settled, he soon left New York and passed the
+last days of his life in Dutchess County, the region of his birth.</p>
+
+<p>At about the time Paulding moved into the State Street house two young
+men met one afternoon at the home of a mutual friend. One was
+study<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">-115-</a></span>ing medicine and beginning to see something more in life than a
+struggle for mere existence. He was Joseph Rodman Drake. The other,
+Fitz-Greene Halleck, was a bookkeeper and had but just come from his
+birthplace in Guilford, Connecticut. He had read much poetry and had
+written some stray verse. A few days after their meeting, the two came
+together again in the rooms where Halleck boarded in Greenwich Street,
+not half a dozen houses from the place where Washington Irving was
+living with Mrs. Brandish. The second meeting was the real start of an
+inseparable friendship which has caused them to be looked upon as the
+Orestes and Pylades of American poets.</p>
+
+<p>Halleck had begun his work for Jacob Barker. The warehouse where he
+was employed stands yet and can easily be found by walking down John<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">-116-</a></span>
+Street to Burling Slip, and so on around the corner into South Street
+by the waterside. Drake ofttimes took that walk and sat there by the
+side of his friend's desk. Often, too, in the late afternoon, Halleck
+walked from there to the green that since has been called the City
+Hall Park, and sat until Drake came from his studies in the nearby
+College of Physicians and Surgeons. The college was part of Columbia,
+which lay to the west of the green. In time the city overgrew the
+college grounds so completely that those interested in remembering
+where they had been set up a tablet at West Broadway and Murray
+Street, as a reminder that they should not be entirely forgotten. From
+the park it was the wont of the youthful poets to walk along Broadway
+below Trinity Church&mdash;then the fashionable promenade,&mdash;and so on to
+the Battery,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">-117-</a></span> past where Irving had lived by the Bowling Green, past
+where Paulding was then living.</p>
+
+<p>The time came when Drake was graduated, and then there were the long
+evenings together back of his office in the store numbered 121 Bowery,
+just above Hester Street. From this house the friends made their long
+excursions across the Harlem River, far beyond the town, into the
+romantic Bronx of which Drake sang so often and so well.</p>
+
+<p>One night, starting from the Bowery shop, Drake took Halleck down
+Broadway into Thames Street, and there, back of the City Hotel, dined
+him in a dingy little public house, the first of many pleasant
+evenings there. It was the ale-house kept by William Reynolds, a
+genial, red-faced man who had been a grave-digger in the nearby
+Trinity Churchyard.</p>
+
+<p>The tavern remained a place of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">-118-</a></span> entertainment for close upon a hundred
+years, most of the time known as "Old Tom's," from Reynolds's
+successor. It came to be a landmark for the curious, but as the
+curious always stood outside and never by any chance went in to buy of
+what was on sale there, it went the way of all old places. To-day, if
+you turn into Thames Street, from busy Broadway, you come upon a mass
+of buildings in perpetual shade, and with a decidedly provincial air
+not at all in keeping with the up-to-date city. A walk of half a block
+brings you to Temple Street&mdash;a thoroughfare leading nowhere in
+particular, but which wise chroniclers have quarrelled over, some
+urging that it came by its name because of being close by Trinity
+Church, which is a temple of worship, and others quite as vigorously
+contending that it took its name from Charlotte Temple, who lived
+nearby.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">-119-</a></span> Here you find Reynolds's tavern metamorphosed into a modern
+place of business, and though the street is still quaint-appearing,
+every suggestion of romance has vanished from the tavern. Nevertheless
+the curious, who in its days of need regarded it from afar, love to
+sit in it, surrounded by modern conveniences, and tell what it was
+like "in Drake's time."</p>
+
+<p>Drake prospered, and after a time set up his pharmacy in the busiest
+part of town, that later grew to be the core of Newspaper Row. When
+Drake lived in Park Row, the second door from Beekman Street, he and
+Halleck hit upon the idea of the "Croaker Papers," a series of satires
+in verse, printed in the <i>Evening Post</i>, in which the poets sailed
+into the public characters of the day. This was the house where
+Halleck went to read his <i>Fanny</i> to Drake, and made some corrections
+at his friend's sug<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">-120-</a></span>gestion before he gave it to the world.</p>
+
+<p><a name="SHAKESPEARE" id="SHAKESPEARE"></a>
+<img src="images/line120.png" width="194" height="224" alt="The Shakespeare Tavern" title="The Shakespeare Tavern" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Around the corner from the Park Row shop, the Shakespeare Tavern was
+conducted by Thomas Hawkins Hodgkinson, the actor; a resort for the
+actors, the artists, the writers, the talkers of the town; a popular
+rendezvous quite in contrast to Reynolds's quiet inn. It stood at the
+southwest corner of Fulton and Nassau streets, a double house of
+brick, having for its sign a bust of the great poet over the door. In
+after years a tablet was set to mark the spot. Halleck tells of a
+meeting here with James Lawson, the journalist, who came to write the
+<i>Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">-121-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On a night when Drake and Paulding and some others gathered for a
+friendly evening there arose a discussion, argued for and against by
+all the company, as to whether or not the rivers of America were rich
+enough in legend and romance to lend themselves to poetic treatment.
+And after the talk had lengthened into the morning hours, Drake went
+to the room over his Park Row shop to put his view of the subject into
+writing. In a few days he read to Halleck the poem on which his fame
+chiefly rests, <i>The Culprit Fay</i>&mdash;a poetic fantasy illumining the
+Highlands of the Hudson.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1820, Halleck sat in the Park Row house by the bedside of
+his friend, who was dying of consumption, and here, at the age of
+twenty-five, Joseph Rodman Drake passed away. Halleck followed the
+coffin to that beautiful spot beyond the Harlem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">-122-</a></span> that they both loved
+so well, and there by the side of the Bronx streamlet the poet Drake
+was buried. In the depth of his grief Halleck wrote the lines:</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="poem">
+<tr>
+<td>
+Green be the turf above thee,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Friend of my better days;</span><br />
+None knew thee but to love thee,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">None named thee but to praise.</span><br />
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noindent">And now after more than three quarters of a century the words still
+murmur their message of friendship and sorrow above Drake's grave. The
+city has sped on far beyond the little graveyard, and harsh sounds
+throb where once was only the singing of birds; but the consecrated
+spot remains, cared for year by year as well as may be in despite of
+relic-hunting vandals.</p>
+
+<p>Halleck outlived his friend by many long years. He gave up bookkeeping
+for Jacob Barker, and during<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">-123-</a></span> eighteen years was the confidential
+manager of the affairs of John Jacob Astor. But he never failed to
+regret the comrade of his youth, losing with him much of his
+inspiration.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="JUMEL" id="JUMEL"></a>
+<img src="images/line123.png" width="309" height="174" alt="The Jumel Mansion" title="The Jumel Mansion" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Half an hour's journey from Drake's grave, on the western side of the
+Harlem River, there stands, at One Hundred and Sixtieth Street and
+Edgecombe Avenue, a house on a bluff so high above the river that it
+can be seen from afar&mdash;white in the sunlight. This is the Morris
+house, where Mary Philipse lived after she became the wife of Roger<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">-124-</a></span>
+Morris; where Washington had his headquarters; where Madame Jumel
+lived, and where she married Aaron Burr. To the one who strolls in the
+footsteps of <i>littérateurs</i> of a bygone day, it is, more than all, the
+house where Halleck visited, and where he wrote <i>Marco Bozzaris</i>.
+Although this was his most widely known poem, and though it was
+written five years after the death of Drake, the memory of his friend
+was like a fresh sorrow to him while he wrote. During forty odd years
+from that time he continued the gently courteous, witty talker, the
+dignified life of each gathering he attended. But, as he knew so well,
+his Muse was sorely wounded when Drake died, and the fuller poetic
+life that might have been his was buried on the green slope of the
+Bronx with his friend.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">-125-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VII" id="Chapter_VII"></a>Chapter VII<br />
+Cooper and His Friends</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">I</span>N that cheerless precinct of New York City to which still clings the
+name St. John's Park, though there has been no park there this
+half-century,&mdash;in Beach Street, a dozen or perhaps twenty steps from
+Hudson Street, there stands a house that could not fail to attract the
+attention of an observant passer-by. A brick building, its
+architectural features suggest roomy attractiveness&mdash;a condition
+little sought after in these days when the value of every inch of
+ground calls for compactness regardless of beauty of appearance. One
+looking at this building and given to sentiment might argue that it is
+strongly reminiscent of a human being who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">-126-</a></span> had once been vigorous and
+had made a considerable show in the world of fashion and pride, but
+who had sunk to poverty and decrepitude. For the carved window-cases
+are hacked and beaten away, the wrought-iron railings are twisted and
+rusty, the marble steps are cracked and crumbling, the high ceilings
+with their heavy and ornate mouldings are seamed and discolored, and
+the massive oaken doors are cracked by many a rusty nail driven into
+them, holding ragged and worn-out garments. Yet even in its age and
+neglect are found traces of its primal sturdy and artistic
+proportions.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1821, this house was the home of James Fenimore Cooper.
+His first book, <i>Precaution</i>, had failed utterly. His second book,
+<i>The Spy</i>, had been prodigiously successful, when in this year he went
+to New York to live in what was then the fashionable district of St.
+John's Park.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">-127-</a></span> He was thirty-one years old, had lived at Cooperstown,
+studied at Yale, shipped as a sailor before the mast, made voyages to
+England and Spain, been appointed midshipman, and seen service on Lake
+Ontario and Lake Champlain, had resigned his commission, and had
+married Augusta de Lancey at Heathcote Hill Manor, Mamaroneck. After
+the birth of his daughter, Susan Fenimore Cooper, who became a writer
+of rural sketches, he settled down in Westchester County to live the
+life of a country gentleman. He might have remained there all his days
+but that one day he got hold of a particularly stupid book of English
+life, and was so bored by it that it forced from him the exclamation
+that he could write a better himself! Which remark being interpreted
+literally by his wife, there was nothing for the country gentleman but
+to make good his boast. So he wrote a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">-128-</a></span> dull and stupid story which
+even his friends had difficulty in reading to the end, and then,
+doubtless finding writing more agreeable than farming, wrote another
+that destined him evermore to a literary life.</p>
+
+<p>This much of Cooper's life was behind him when he moved into the Beach
+Street house. In this home he wrote <i>The Pioneers</i>, first of the
+famous Leatherstocking Tales and, too, <i>The Pilot</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the New York of that day there was one place where he loved to go
+for a quiet dinner and discussion with the literary friends whom he
+quickly gathered around him. This was the chief hostelry of the day,
+the City Hotel, which stood close by where Wall Street runs into
+Broadway. It was at one of these dinners that he met James A.
+Hillhouse, who, though he had already written <i>The Judgment</i> and was
+recognized as a poet,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">-129-</a></span> was then engaged in mercantile pursuits in the
+city; but was very soon to make a home in New Haven and remain there
+during the rest of his life. Hillhouse was not a regular diner with
+Cooper, but he introduced there a friend who became much more regular
+in his attendance. Samuel Woodworth was even then shouldering aside
+adversity with intermittent success. It was his habit to walk briskly
+up from his printing office at the foot of Wall Street, very much in
+the manner of a man having an imperative appointment. Four years
+before Cooper came to town, on a very hot summer day, Woodworth had
+walked in this same eager manner to his house farther up-town in Duane
+Street, and there, drinking from a pump before his door, had said:
+"I'd like to have a drink to-day from the old bucket that hung in my
+father's well." Whereupon his kindly wife<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">-130-</a></span> hinted that the old bucket
+of his remembrance would make a good subject for a poem&mdash;a hint that
+within the hour took the form of <i>The Old Oaken Bucket</i>, a pastoral
+poem well remembered and much sung, though many another of his, many
+an operetta, and even the historical romance, <i>The Champion of
+Freedom</i>, have faded from memory.</p>
+
+<p>At these dinners, when Cooper sat with his friends, Woodworth and
+Morris held the first discussions of the plans for <i>The Mirror</i>, which
+was started in 1823, but from which the inconstant Woodworth soon
+retired.</p>
+
+<p>On more than one occasion one of the dinner party was Richard Henry
+Dana, a founder of the <i>North American Review</i> and the friend of
+Bryant. The City Hotel was quite convenient for him, for he had made a
+sort of headquarters in the place of Wiley, the publisher, around the
+corner in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">-131-</a></span> Wall Street by New Street. At that time he issued from
+Wiley's shop <i>The Idle Man</i>, that literary publication which scarcely
+lived long enough to include his novels, <i>Tom Thornton</i> and <i>Paul
+Felton</i>, and some contributions from Washington Allston and Bryant.</p>
+
+<p>Many a good idea came from the meetings at the City Hotel, but
+possibly none more felicitous than that of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+This remained so long in the germ that the realization seemed far off,
+but finally, in 1824, began the holding of its fortnightly meetings in
+Washington Hall&mdash;afterwards swept away to give place to the Stewart
+Building at Broadway and Reade Street. The club derived its name from
+Cooper's conceit of having candidates balloted for with bread and
+cheese, a bit of bread favoring election and cheese deciding against
+it.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="WASHINGTON_HALL" id="WASHINGTON_HALL"></a>
+<img src="images/line132.png" width="268" height="221" alt="Washington Hall" title="Washington Hall" />
+</p>
+
+<p>As Cooper had in the main origin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">-132-</a></span>ated the club, he was the leading
+spirit around whom gathered Halleck and Bryant, Percival, Professor
+Renwick, Dr. J.W. Francis, and all the writers of the day. An
+enthusiastic member was Philip Hone, who had just retired from
+business and bought a house at 235 Broadway opposite the park, a site
+considered a good way up-town for a residence. His diary, which in
+after years led him to be called the Pepys of America, was commenced
+in this house, but the greater part was written at his residence of
+later date, at the southwest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">-133-</a></span> corner of Broadway and Great Jones
+Street.</p>
+
+<p>Gulian C. Verplanck was a member too. At the time he occupied a
+professorship in the General Theological Seminary. From one of the
+meetings he walked down Broadway and through Wall Street past the
+house, near Broad Street, where he was born, discussing with Bryant
+and Robert C. Sands an early suggestion of the <i>Talisman</i> magazine,
+which was not to ripen into an accomplished fact for a good three
+years. On this same walk, too, he took part while Bryant and Sands
+discussed plans for the <i>Atlantic Monthly</i>, which Sands established
+the next year.</p>
+
+<p>But writers were not the only members of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+There were scholars and professional men, and often there were
+statesmen and men of national distinction as guests. But as Cooper was
+its lead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">-134-</a></span>ing spirit, when he left for his trip abroad the club went to
+pieces. He started in 1825 on his foreign travels, and at the time of
+his going was living at 345 Greenwich Street, where he had finished
+work on <i>The Last of the Mohicans</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the year after his going there was a gala night at the Lafayette
+Theatre, when <i>The Spy</i> was enacted. The Lafayette was the largest
+theatre then. Upon its site in West Broadway near Canal Street St.
+Alphonsus's Church now stands. To that performance came from up-State
+Enoch Crosby, who was said to be the original Spy, and when he
+appeared in a box with some friends the audience gave him a thunderous
+ovation.</p>
+
+<p>Cooper returned from abroad in 1833, having added <i>The Prairie</i>, <i>The
+Red Rover</i>, <i>The Water Witch</i>, and <i>The Bravo</i> to his list of
+published<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">-135-</a></span> books, and went to live in Bleecker Street, two blocks from
+Broadway, near Thompson Street. This was a select neighborhood then of
+pretty, irregular brick dwellings. The house is there yet, but the
+neighborhood is no longer elegant. Italian merchants, unkempt in
+appearance, carry on meagre and uncertain kinds of business, and
+Cooper's old house is so decorated with signs inside and out as to be
+picturesque only for its dinginess and disorder. Cooper did not live
+there long, for he soon moved to Broadway at Prince Street, into a
+house that later gave way to Niblo's Garden, and there he completed
+work on the volumes covering his stay in Europe, under the titles
+<i>Sketches in Switzerland</i> and <i>Gleanings in Europe</i>. But he made no
+very long stay on Broadway, for he moved again, this time to St.
+Mark's Place, a few doors from Third Avenue, into an unpre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">-136-</a></span>tentious
+brick house of three stories that is there still. There he wrote
+<i>Homeward Bound</i> and began in earnest that fierce combat with his
+critics which was to last to the end of his days and leave many a
+regret that he had not been a more even-tempered man. From this house
+he went to Cooperstown, which became his final home.</p>
+
+<p>At the time that Cooper lived in New York there walked along Broadway,
+between Canal Street and the Chapel of St. Paul's, on almost every
+pleasant afternoon, a man who in appearance was a veritable Hamlet.
+His garb was a customary suit of solemn black, and his eyes sought the
+ground as he moved with pensive step. This was McDonald Clarke, whose
+eccentric appearance and acts and whose melancholy verses gave him the
+name of The Mad Poet.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="THEATRE" id="THEATRE"></a>
+<img src="images/parktheatre.png" width="500" height="304" alt="THE PARK THEATRE" title="THE PARK THEATRE" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831.</p>
+
+<p>If Broadway was his walk of an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">-137-</a></span> afternoon, Park Row was his haunt by
+night; and Windust's place, a door or two below the Park Theatre
+(literally below it, for it was beneath the sidewalk), was his
+centring point.</p>
+
+<p>The resort of Edward Windust was not an old place, but a famous one.
+It was opened in 1824 and lasted only until 1837, when the proprietor
+thought himself cramped in space and opportunity and, moving away to
+seek a larger field, found failure. It was the actors' museum of the
+city. Its walls were lined with reminders of the stage: playbills, and
+swords that had seen the service of savage mimic wars; pictures, and
+frames of clippings, and bits of the wardrobes of kings and queens who
+had strutted their brief hour and passed away. It was the nightly
+gathering point of such actors as were in town, such writers, such
+wits, such gallant gentlemen. Edmund Kean and the Wal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">-138-</a></span>lacks, Harry
+Placide and Cooper, Jack Scott, Mitchell, Brown, and Junius Brutus
+Booth were frequenters, with Fitz-Greene Halleck, Willis, Morris, and
+the rest, who nightly crowded the tier of stalls that ranged along one
+side of the room, making them resound with gay and brilliant talk.</p>
+
+<p>In Windust's, too, sat McDonald Clarke in gloomy majesty night after
+night. There he formed among many others the acquaintance of Mordecai
+M. Noah, journalist and playwright, who had been Consul at Tunis and
+who in the years to come was to start several unsuccessful papers,
+until in 1843 he was to publish the <i>Sunday Times and Messenger</i>,
+which continued for more than half a century.</p>
+
+<p>From Windust's McDonald Clarke often wandered out into the City Hall
+Park over the way, and sat there through many a long summer night<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">-139-</a></span>
+dreaming over his <i>Elixir of Moonshine</i>, or, with the memory of his
+afternoon walks upon him, composing lines for his <i>Afara, or the
+Belles of Broadway</i>, and many another melancholy verse. Often he sat
+there until daybreak, then went on into Broadway again. He had a
+favorite early-morning stand on the Fulton Street side of St. Paul's
+Churchyard, and there, an hour before the town was stirring,
+soliloquized as he looked through the railings at the brown
+tombstones.</p>
+
+<p>On these same mornings, but a few hours later, another writer looked
+down on the same faded tombstones, for Ray Palmer was the teacher of a
+young ladies' school down Fulton Street beyond Broadway. He was young
+then, in his twenty-second year, in ill-health, and suffering under
+discouragements that would have been unendurable to a
+weaker-dis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">-140-</a></span>positioned man. As he looked from the school window into
+the churchyard he wrote a hymn which remained in his desk for several
+years, until it was published in quite an accidental manner by Dr.
+Lowell Mason, when he needed material for a book of church music which
+he had compiled. In a few years this hymn, <i>My Faith Looks Up to
+Thee</i>, was to be sung oftener than any other American hymn.</p>
+
+<p>The sights and the sounds of the busy city that were an inspiration to
+Ray Palmer always sent The Mad Poet in another direction,&mdash;on up
+Broadway to Leonard Street, turning down there two short blocks to
+Chapel Street, to the house where at that time he made his home. It
+was a dreary enough street and a dismal enough upper room, but there
+was a narrow window where the poet could look over the housetops in
+the mid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">-141-</a></span>night hour and watch the stars that he seemed ever to hold
+converse with. Or, if it was in the early evening, he had but to lean
+forward from his window to see the people going into the Italian Opera
+House on the next corner. The Italian Opera House had a great deal of
+attraction for The Mad Poet. Not that he went there often to attend
+the performances, but he liked to inspect it from his window height as
+though he caught a glimpse of the sorrows and disappointments
+connected with it. He had moved into the house in the year 1833&mdash;the
+year that the opera house was opened after it had been built for a
+company headed by Lorenzo Da Ponte.</p>
+
+<p>This Da Ponte had come to America in 1805, having a record as an
+Italian dramatist, who had furnished libretti for Mozart's operas,
+<i>Don Giovanni</i> and <i>Nozze di Figaro</i>. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">-142-</a></span> was professor in Columbia
+College when he matured an idea for establishing a home for Italian
+opera in New York, a plan which led to the building of the opera house
+near which The Mad Poet lived. It opened splendidly with the singers
+of the Cavalier di Rivafinoli, but a short season ended Lorenzo Da
+Ponte's hopes.</p>
+
+<p>If The Mad Poet from his housetop could have seen what the next few
+years had in store, he would have beheld the aged dramatist dying at
+his home in Spring Street, close to Broadway, his body followed from
+there by his mourning friends&mdash;Halleck and Verplanck and Woodworth and
+some few others,&mdash;followed to the churchyard surrounding the nearby
+St. Patrick's Church; he would have seen the mark above the grave
+crumbling away, leaving nothing to point the spot where Da Ponte lay<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">-143-</a></span>
+buried with his dreams and his hopes. But no inspiration hinted any of
+these things to McDonald Clarke, and once, in speaking of Da Ponte, he
+said that there at least was a man who had lived long unrewarded but
+had attained his ambition at last.</p>
+
+<p>For nine years after The Mad Poet went to the Chapel Street house his
+Broadway walks continued, his dress each year growing more shabby, his
+eye more downcast, and his verse more melancholy. Then one day he was
+seen close by his favorite stand near the Churchyard of St. Paul's,
+acting so strangely that he was thought to be intoxicated. Next
+morning he awoke to find himself a prisoner in a vagrant cell, and the
+shock to his sensitive nature sent him, a madman indeed, to the
+Blackwell's Island Asylum, where in a few days he died.</p>
+
+<p>Years after, the author of <i>Glimpses<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">-144-</a></span> of Home Life</i>, Emma C. Embury,
+whose home was in Brooklyn, told of a knoll in Greenwood Cemetery by
+the side of a little lake where the oak-trees shaded a modest tomb on
+which there were some lines of verse. They were lines written by
+McDonald Clarke. The tomb is there yet, still shaded by oaks that have
+grown sturdier with the passing years, and the grave by the lake is
+the grave of The Mad Poet.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">-145-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VIII" id="Chapter_VIII"></a>Chapter VIII<br />
+Those Who Gathered about Poe</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">W</span>HEN New York was a much younger city than it is, when it was well
+within bounds on the lower part of the island of Manhattan, long
+before there was a thought that it would overspread the island, jump
+over a stream and go wandering up the mainland, overleap a river and
+go spreading over another island to the sea,&mdash;long before the time
+when these things came to be, there lay scattered in several
+directions on the island of Manhattan and dotting the rolling country
+land beyond, several tiny villages. These were Harlem, and Yorkville,
+and Odellville, and Bloomingdale, and Chelsea, and Greenwich. The last
+was the ham<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">-146-</a></span>let closest to the city. Quaint and curious, it spread its
+scattered way along the Hudson River where houses had been set up
+according to the needs and vagaries of men on roads natural and
+unplanned. When the city grew larger and finally swept around
+Greenwich Village, the roads becoming city streets, the village
+continued a labyrinthian way, where strangers wandered and were lost
+before they knew it.</p>
+
+<p><a name="BLOOMINGDALE" id="BLOOMINGDALE"></a>
+<img src="images/line147.png" width="324" height="221" alt="On Bloomingdale Road near 75th St. in Poe&#39;s time" title="On Bloomingdale Road near 75th St. in Poe&#39;s time" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the very core of this old-time Greenwich section and at the very
+place where the streets are so tangled, so irregular, so crooked, so
+often no thoroughfare, so winding that they seem to be seeking out the
+old farmhouses which they led to in early days, there is a pretty
+little playground for children. This Hudson Park is an open spot with
+green lawns and marble walks and a tall iron fence surrounding it;
+quite a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">-147-</a></span> model park with everything about fresh, and new, and modern.
+It is so very new and so very neat and so very clean that one would
+not look there for old-time flavor. But curiously enough one thing
+about it seems out of tone. On the green lawn is a monument old and
+faded which, in an effort to match it with its natty surroundings, has
+been set upon a base of glistening white marble. The monument is a
+sort of key for the antiquarian, for without it this playground in its
+spick-and-span newness might not be readily identified as the old St.
+John's Burying-Ground, where once stood the accumulated tombstones of
+more than fourscore years, until they were swept away and buried as
+deep as those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">-148-</a></span> whose memories they marked. A new generation tramples
+in and romps over the new park, with no knowledge or thought of what
+is below the surface.</p>
+
+<p>The graveyard of St. John's was a quiet, restful place in a quiet,
+restful locality in the year 1837, when Edgar Allan Poe had a habit of
+wandering through it. In that year Poe lived within a few steps of the
+burial-ground in a modest wooden house that was numbered 113 Carmine
+Street. He was then in his twenty-eighth year, had published three
+volumes of poems, and had written some short stories and criticisms.
+He had but just given up the editorship of the <i>Southern Literary
+Messenger</i> at Richmond, a position he had secured through the
+friendship of John P. Kennedy, who had been his friend in his early
+struggles in Baltimore and who was to continue a friend to him through
+all his life. In 1832 Poe had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">-149-</a></span> first met him, when Kennedy was writing
+<i>Swallow Barn</i>. Afterwards Kennedy wrote <i>Horseshoe Robinson</i> and
+other books before abandoning literature for politics and, in time,
+becoming Secretary of the Navy.</p>
+
+<p><a name="CARMINE" id="CARMINE"></a>
+<img src="images/line149.png" width="195" height="163" alt="The House in Carmine Street" title="The House in Carmine Street" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>So Poe came to New York, and with him Virginia, his child wife, who
+was already marked a victim of consumption, and there in the Carmine
+Street house they lived. Sometimes she walked with her sombre-faced
+husband through the nearby burying-ground, but more often she sat at
+an upper window from which she could watch him on his ramble. In the
+same house lived William Gowans the bookseller of Nassau Street; and
+there Poe did work for the <i>New York Quarterly Review</i>; there also<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">-150-</a></span> he
+finished <i>The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In another house, some little distance away but in a direct course up
+Carmine Street, in Sixth Avenue close by Waverley Place, Poe lived for
+a short time, but long enough to write <i>The Fall of the House of
+Usher</i> and some magazine work, when he went to Philadelphia to <i>The
+Gentleman's Magazine</i>, edited by William E. Burton, the famous
+comedian. Oddly enough, when Burton died years afterwards, he found a
+resting place in the obscure St. John's Burying-Ground.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="WRITERS_3" id="WRITERS_3"></a>
+<img src="images/writers03.png" width="392" height="550" alt="writers" title="writers" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">
+1. RICHARD HENRY STODDARD.<br />
+2. JOHN JAMES AUDUBON.<br />
+3. WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.<br />
+4. BAYARD TAYLOR.<br />
+5. EDGAR ALLAN POE.<br />
+6. ROBERT FULTON.
+</p>
+
+<p>It was not until 1844 that Poe returned to New York, and during the
+years of his absence several writers with whom he was to become
+acquainted on his return had forged their literary way. There was Seba
+Smith, more generally known as "Major Jack Downing," from the
+hu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">-151-</a></span>morous papers which he wrote under that name, and who about this
+time was writing the romance in verse called <i>Powhatan</i>. There was
+William Ross Wallace, the lawyer and magazine writer, who in after
+years was to be known through his poem of <i>The Liberty Bell</i>. There
+was the Congregational clergyman George B. Cheever making his way,
+having resigned his first pastorate, at Salem, Massachusetts, where he
+had been imprisoned for libel on account of his temperance sketch
+<i>Deacon Giles's Distillery</i>. There was Robert H. Messinger, known
+through his Horatian ode, <i>Give Me the Old</i>, his fame daily expanding
+in fashionable and literary circles. There was Edward Robinson,
+Professor in the Union Theological Seminary, just returned from a tour
+of exploration in Palestine with Rev. Eli Smith, publishing <i>Biblical
+Researches in Palestine</i>. And<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">-152-</a></span> there was Isaac McLelland, whose verse
+was as good as his sportsmanship. These were some few of the men who
+were first to recognize the genius of the poet.</p>
+
+<p>Poe returned to New York the wiser for his experience with <i>The
+Gentleman's Magazine</i> and with <i>Graham's Magazine</i>, but having failed
+to establish <i>The Stylus</i>, a proposed publication of his own, which
+during all his life was to be a vision of Tantalus, just beyond his
+grasp. He returned rich in experience, strong in adversity, poor in
+pocket. There was no glorious opening for him, and finally he accepted
+a sub-editorship on the <i>Evening Mirror</i>, grinding out copy for
+several hard-working hours each day.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Evening Mirror</i> was a newly started publication, but its
+interests were so entwined with others that its history stretched back
+something<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">-153-</a></span> more than twenty years from the day when Poe first occupied
+a desk in the office. Going back these one and twenty years, the
+better to understand the atmosphere in which Poe worked, to the spring
+of 1823, the time is reached when George P. Morris and Samuel
+Woodworth joined forces and opened an office for the publication of
+the <i>New York Mirror</i> at 163 William Street. Morris was a young man
+then, but already gave strong evidence of the decided character he was
+to develop as an eminently practical printer and successful writer of
+songs&mdash;a man of such unusual personal magnetism that well-nigh every
+man who walked towards him a stranger walked away from him a friend.
+The eight years which followed the starting of the <i>New York Mirror</i>
+saw many changes; saw Morris becoming more and more popular as a
+writer of songs; saw him<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">-154-</a></span> publishing the memorable <i>Woodman, Spare
+that Tree</i>, that was to make his name known over the land; saw
+Woodworth withdraw from the <i>Mirror</i>, and that publication
+strengthened and starting anew when Morris drew to the enterprise
+Theodore S. Fay and Nathaniel P. Willis; saw Fay going abroad in a few
+years as Secretary of Legation at Berlin, in which city he was to live
+out most of his life.</p>
+
+<p>N.P. Willis was a young man, too, in those early days of his
+association with Morris. He had given up the <i>American Monthly
+Magazine</i> at Boston to devote his energies to the <i>New York Mirror</i>.
+In the year that he became associated with Morris, 1831, he went
+abroad at a salary of ten dollars a week, hoping to add strength and
+diversity to the paper by a series of letters. In London, poor and
+struggling, he managed to introduce<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">-155-</a></span> himself into the fashionable set
+at that time presided over by Lady Blessington, and he came to be the
+adoration of all the sentimental young ladies in that set. There was a
+daintiness about his dress, a suggestion of foppishness in the
+arrangement of his blond hair, trifles about him which suggested the
+dandy and the idler; but withal there was a terrific capacity for work
+under the smooth outside. His letters to the <i>Mirror</i> and other papers
+did much for the refinement of literature and art, and, indirectly,
+for the manners of the times. He was in America again in 1836,
+bringing with him an English lady as a bride,&mdash;the Mary for whom the
+country place Glen Mary at Owego was named, where he wrote his
+delightful <i>Letters from under a Bridge</i>. He was again in Europe in
+1839, soon starting <i>The Corsair</i>, and back to America in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">-156-</a></span> 1844, to
+join his friend Morris (the <i>Mirror</i> by this time being defunct) in
+the starting of a daily paper which took the name of the <i>Evening
+Mirror</i>. From this on Willis lived an active social-literary life,
+singing of Broadway with the same facileness as he sang of country
+scenes. He came to be a grave and patient invalid, living happily with
+his second wife as he had with his first, and ending his days at
+Idlewild,&mdash;his home on the Hudson.</p>
+
+<p>It was with the newly started <i>Evening Mirror</i> that Poe became
+connected on his return from Philadelphia, and it would seem that if
+he ever had prospects bright to look forward to it was with the
+fair-minded, business-like Morris and the gentle-hearted Willis. But
+when Poe had continued with them a brief six months even that gentle
+restraint proved too much. The <i>Evening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">-157-</a></span> Mirror</i> did not last long
+after his going, though this had little to do with its failure. Then
+the indefatigable Morris, with Willis, started the <i>Home Journal</i> at
+107 Fulton Street, which continued into the twentieth century, and is
+now known under its changed title of <i>Town and Country</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="RAVEN" id="RAVEN"></a>
+<img src="images/line157.png" width="330" height="193" alt="Where Poe wrote &quot;The Raven&quot;" title="Where Poe wrote &quot;The Raven&quot;" />
+</p>
+
+<p>While Poe was working on the <i>Mirror</i> he lived with his frail wife
+Virginia and her mother, Mrs. Clemm, in Bloomingdale Village. It was a
+village indeed then, and about the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">-158-</a></span> scattered houses were broad roads
+and shaded lanes and clustering trees. The house in which Poe lived
+was on a high bluff beside a country road which is now Eighty-fourth
+Street, the house standing (as the thoroughfares run now) between
+Broadway and West End Avenue. It was a plain, square, frame dwelling
+with brick chimneys reaching high above the pointed roof, kept by Mrs.
+Mary Brennan, and Poe rented rooms of her. Two windows faced towards
+the Hudson, and he could sit and looking through the trees catch a
+silvery glimpse of the river. Here he wrote <i>The Raven</i> and <i>The Imp
+of the Perverse</i>. From here he sent <i>The Raven</i> to the <i>American
+Review</i> at 118 Nassau Street, where it was published over the pen name
+of "Quarles"; and he was still living here when the poem was reprinted
+in the <i>Evening Mir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">-159-</a></span>ror</i>, for the first time over his own name.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="FORDHAM" id="FORDHAM"></a>
+<img src="images/fordham.png" width="500" height="341" alt="POE&#39;S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM." title="POE&#39;S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="centerbp" style="line-height: 1.2em"><span class="msm"><b><span class="sans">POE&#8217;S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM.</span></b><br />
+(From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.)<br />
+Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.</span></p>
+
+<p>It had come to be the summer of 1845 when Poe left the <i>Evening
+Mirror</i> for the long black desk in lower Nassau Street where he helped
+Charles F. Briggs conduct the <i>Broadway Journal</i>. Briggs was the
+matter-of-fact "Harry Franco," a journalist of great ability who in
+another ten years was to edit <i>Putnam's Magazine</i> from 10 Park Place.
+More than one of Poe's friends said that the combination of Harry
+Franco and the poet must assuredly bring forth great literary results
+and financial success. But the partnership did not work at all well.
+In a very short time Poe bought out his partner's interest through an
+arrangement with Horace Greeley and moved the office of the paper into
+Clinton Hall. But the <i>Broadway Journal</i> under the management of Poe
+was less of a success<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">-160-</a></span> than it had been under Briggs and Poe, and the
+poet retired from it in the first month of 1846.</p>
+
+<p>This Clinton Hall in which Poe had his office was a substantial
+building at the southwest corner of Nassau and Beekman streets. Temple
+Court now stands on the site. A second and a third building of the
+name have arisen in Astor Place, the second having been remodelled in
+1854 from the Astor Place Opera House, the scene of the
+Forrest-Macready riots. The present building, tall and heavy-looking,
+is the home of the Mercantile Library, as each Clinton Hall has been
+in its turn, and still retains the name first given to it in 1830,
+when Governor De Witt Clinton presented a <i>History of England</i> as a
+nucleus for the library.</p>
+
+<p>About the time when Poe was with the <i>Broadway Journal</i> he moved into
+a house not a great many steps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">-161-</a></span> from Broadway, in Amity Street, since
+renamed West Third Street. Here amid surroundings marked by a
+simplicity due less to simple tastes than poverty Poe lived and wrote
+by the side of the delicate wife who was wasting away before his eyes.
+Here he penned the <i>Philosophy of Composition</i>, by which he would make
+it appear that <i>The Raven</i> was not a product of inspiration, but the
+work of calm reason and artistic construction,&mdash;a theory which no one
+seems to have accepted. Here, too, he wrote <i>The Literati of New
+York</i>, a series of papers that appeared in <i>Godey's Lady's Book</i>, and
+were the sensation of the hour in literary circles. Their criticisms
+were severe and impassioned, and one of the criticised, believing
+himself ill-treated and his writings unjustly abused, sought
+vindication. His answer entirely overlooked the libel laws and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">-162-</a></span> he was
+promptly sued for damages by Poe. This was Thomas Dunn English, a
+young man then twenty-four years old, who a few years before, in 1843,
+had been asked by N.P. Willis to write a poem for the <i>New Mirror</i>.
+The poem was written and sent to Willis with the suggestion that he
+either print it or tear it up as he thought best. Willis printed it,
+and though the writer came to be known as a poet, author, physician,
+lawyer, and statesman, the best known of his achievements were these
+verses of <i>Ben Bolt</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the spring of 1846, when the poet's wife grew more feeble, her
+brilliant eyes more brilliant, and her pallid look more unearthly, Poe
+moved out into the country to a little village called Fordham in
+Westchester County. This was then far out from the city, a secluded
+spot with rocky heights from which a view<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">-163-</a></span> could be had of country
+lanes and broad sweeps of meadow where farmers worked in the fields.
+Since then the open landscape has given way to the regularity of city
+streets and buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Not a great distance from the railroad station still stands the house
+where Poe lived; such a plain, low wooden building that those that
+have grown up around it seem to be shouldering it out of the way, and
+the widening and improving of streets have pushed it somewhat aside
+from its original position. But there the dingy little house still
+stands with its veranda, where Poe walked in the night just outside
+the sitting-room windows,&mdash;walked and dreamed out his <i>Eureka</i>. There
+are the door and the dwarf hallway. Inside, to the right, is the room,
+with its meagre furniture, much of which was purchased with the
+proceeds of the suit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">-164-</a></span> against Thomas Dunn English, where Poe received
+the friends who remembered him in his hours of illness, of poverty,
+and distress. In a room towards the front lay the dying wife on her
+straw bed, covered with the poet's coat and clasping the
+tortoise-shell cat closely to her wasted form. Up the stairs is the
+attic chamber, with its slanting roof, where Poe worked, with the cat
+at his elbow; where after his wife's death he penned a dirge for her
+in the exquisite <i>Annabel Lee</i>; where he wrote the first draught of
+<i>The Bells</i>, which he was to revise and complete while on his lecture
+trip to Lowell. Next to it is the room where slept Mrs. Clemm, his
+more than mother.</p>
+
+<p>So many memories cling to this home of Poe that those who search for
+substantial literary reminders have made it a visiting shrine, much to
+the dismay of landowners who hold<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">-165-</a></span> to the strong belief that
+historic old houses are well enough as curiosities, but are
+inconvenient things when they stand in the way of money-making
+improvements.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="BATTERY" id="BATTERY"></a>
+<img src="images/battery.png" width="500" height="334" alt="THE BATTERY IN 1830." title="THE BATTERY IN 1830." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="centerbp"><span class="msm"><b><span class="sans">THE BATTERY IN 1830.</span></b></span><br />
+<span class="msm">(From a drawing by C. Burton.)</span></p>
+
+<p>After passing through these rooms and with the memory of Poe strong
+upon you, walk away along the street remembering that in Poe's time it
+was a delightful country road. Stroll towards the Harlem River as he
+wandered many a moonlight night, his brain busy with the deep problems
+of <i>The Universe</i>. After a time you will pass on to the High Bridge,
+that carried the pipes of the Croton Aqueduct over the river,&mdash;this at
+least unchanged since his day. Walk over the path there, high above
+the water, and visit the lonely spot where the suggestion came to Poe
+for that requiem of despair, the mystic <i>Ulalume</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the little wooden house at Ford<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">-166-</a></span>ham Poe lived, weak and lonely and
+poor, after the death of his wife, making daily visits to her nearby
+grave,&mdash;the grave that is there no longer. He was cared for by
+Virginia's mother for something more than two years. Then in the June
+of 1849 he left Fordham. Before the end of the year he was dead.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">-167-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_IX" id="Chapter_IX"></a>Chapter IX<br />
+At the Close of the Knickerbocker Days</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">A</span> BUSTLING, energetic, but provincial city was New York between the
+years 1830 and 1840, the last days of the Knickerbockers. After 1840
+it changed greatly, speeding rapidly on in the making of a metropolis.
+Looking back now it is plain that the progress of enlargement went
+steadily on year by year, but then the changes came on imperceptibly
+enough.</p>
+
+<p>To any one who knows the great metropolis of this twentieth century,
+it will seem remarkable that Hanover Square was the place where
+merchants and jobbers most did congregate, and that the business part
+of the city (and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">-168-</a></span> that really meant all the town in those times) lay
+all below Canal Street. Beyond that was the country, crossed by sand
+hills, watered by many rivulets, traversed by roads that led to the
+country places of the wealthy or to popular wayside taverns. The main
+thoroughfares looked wider than they do now, for they were far less
+crowded, although there were busses, and coaches, and drays, and many
+other vehicles of a variety that would look quite odd on the streets
+of this day, and in fact anywhere except in old prints, for they
+became extinct many a day ago. There were no surface roads, no
+elevated roads, no clanging electric cars, no bicycles, no motor
+carriages, no thousand and one conveniences of comfort and confusion
+that inventive genius and modern methods have called forth. To be sure
+the first street railroad in the world had just been projected and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">-169-</a></span>
+the cars were about to run through the streets, but this was not as
+yet established.</p>
+
+<p>The architectural appearance of the city was more meagre, more
+uniform, far more picturesquely simple. There were wooden houses,
+squat and irregular, and there were brick houses, low and solid; there
+were no great towering structures to make one crane the neck to see
+the top. It was a city where provinciality stared out at every corner,
+a city which has been swept so entirely away that what is left of it
+lingers only in odd nooks and corners and back streets where even the
+oldest New Yorker has lost sight of it, and where visitors spend many
+hours seeking out old-time curiosities in the byways of the
+metropolis.</p>
+
+<p><a name="MUSEUM" id="MUSEUM"></a>
+<img src="images/line170.png" width="207" height="259" alt="Museum at the north end of the Park, 1825" title="Museum at the north end of the Park, 1825" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>The larger buildings of those days, the ones to catch the eye of a
+stranger, are all memories now, and it is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">-170-</a></span> difficult matter to say
+even where they stood with any degree of certainty. There was Masonic
+Hall in Broadway and Pearl Street, with its great chamber in imitation
+of the Chapel of Henry VIII., that was quite the pride of the town,
+and indeed looked upon as the most elegant reception-room in detail
+and appointment to be found in America. Close by, on the other side of
+the way, was Contoit's Garden, a delightful resort, where could be had
+the finest of ices and cakes. Farther on the Apollo dancing-rooms were
+a Mecca for the youth of the town. Opposite the lower end of City<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">-171-</a></span>
+Hall Park was Scudder's, the first museum in the city, the forerunner
+of Barnum's, filled to overflowing with curiosities of earth and sea
+and air. Across the way, on the opposite side of the park, was the
+Park Theatre with its broad white front and its record as the chief
+playhouse of the city, although there were hosts of admirers and
+patrons of the Old Bowery, and of the National in Leonard Street, and
+of the Olympic in Broadway, where Mitchell was established as a great
+favorite. Out beyond the city was Niblo's Garden, newly established
+and a real rural retreat; near to it, over on the Bowery Road, was the
+old Vauxhall, fast losing caste as a place of outdoor amusement. In
+Nassau Street the Middle Dutch Church still stood, its silvery bell
+sounding over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">-172-</a></span> the city in which Sunday was a day set apart for
+religious observance and had not come to be a day of merrymaking.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="APOLLO" id="APOLLO"></a>
+<img src="images/apollo.png" width="336" height="500" alt="THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830." title="THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830.</p>
+
+<p><a name="NIBLO" id="NIBLO"></a>
+<img src="images/line171.png" width="233" height="129" alt="Niblo&#39;s Garden" title="Niblo&#39;s Garden" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>It had come to be very near the end of the Knickerbocker days in this
+quiet city where brimstone matches and india-rubber overshoes had just
+been introduced,&mdash;indeed, it was close upon the year 1840,&mdash;when the
+Astor House was a new structure talked about all over the land as a
+wonderful palace. On the ground floor of this hotel John R. Bartlett
+kept a well stocked book-shop, and not a day but it was much visited
+by the literary folk of the town, for he was the friend of all bookish
+people. He himself was a quiet, scholarly man, and it was there in his
+shop, when his many friends left him leisure for work, that he
+arranged the greater part of his <i>Dictionary of Americanisms</i>, by
+which his name is remem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">-173-</a></span>bered far better than by his historical
+records,&mdash;remembered when the fact that he was Secretary of State in
+Rhode Island is quite forgotten if it was ever widely known.</p>
+
+<p>One of the familiar figures in Bartlett's book-shop was a keen-eyed,
+spectacled man who walked with quite a noticeable limp. This was
+Charles Fenno Hoffman, a notable man of his time, whose song,
+<i>Sparkling and Bright</i>, was on everybody's tongue. Thirty-four years
+of his life were behind him, years that were full to overflowing. He
+was a New Yorker in the full meaning of the term, and many of the
+events of his active life had centred about the little book-shop. His
+birthplace was only eight blocks away, there where the structure of
+the Elevated Road throws its shadow over Greenwich Street at its
+crossing with Rector. Those interested searchers who have visited the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">-174-</a></span>
+house where Washington Irving boarded close by this same corner will
+find the house where Hoffman was born nearby it. Thoughts of Irving
+and Hoffman entwine themselves naturally and closely, for Hoffman's
+half-sister was that Matilda who was affianced to Irving and whose
+early death shadowed his whole life.</p>
+
+<p>Just around the corner from Bartlett's shop Hoffman went to school at
+Columbia College, where the present Park Place now wends its way from
+the river to Printing House Square. After leaving college he studied
+law, but soon gave up that profession to become the associate editor
+of the <i>American</i> as the commencement of a literary career. In 1833 he
+founded the <i>Knickerbocker</i> magazine, and while conducting it enjoyed
+the intimate fellowship of Harry Franco, William Cullen Bry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">-175-</a></span>ant, Lewis
+Gaylord Clark, William L. Stone, the brothers Duyckinck, Frederick S.
+Cozzens, Park Benjamin, John L. Stephens, and a great many others in
+the same field of writing.</p>
+
+<p>All this was behind him when he became a familiar figure in Bartlett's
+shop; and more, too, for he had worked with N.P. Willis on the
+<i>Mirror</i>, and had travelled far in the wild West despite an accident
+in his youth which had crushed his leg between a boat and the wharf,
+leaving him a life-long cripple. In this western journeying he
+gathered material for <i>A Winter in the West</i> and <i>Wild Scenes in
+Forest and Prairie</i>. He had already written <i>Vanderlyn</i>, and now in
+the book-shop was daily discussing his plans for <i>Grayslaer</i>. No hint
+came to the minds of those who listened to his witty talk in idle
+hours at the book-shop that in another ten years he would be taken
+from his last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">-176-</a></span> city home in Greene Street to live out the remaining
+thirty-four years of his life in the asylum at Harrisburg, Pa., a
+mental wreck.</p>
+
+<p>It was Hoffman who introduced Lewis Gaylord Clark to the book-shop.
+Clark had been associated with him on the <i>Knickerbocker</i> magazine,
+and it was Clark who continued that publication for many years in the
+office on Broadway, just south of Cortlandt Street. To the office very
+often went his twin brother, Willis Gaylord Clark, editor of the
+Philadelphia <i>Gazette</i>, who contributed his now long-forgotten verse
+to his brother's magazine almost to the day of his death.</p>
+
+<p>It was quite natural that John L. Stephens should make Bartlett's
+book-shop a headquarters while he was in town, for Bartlett and he
+were firm friends of years' standing, and their minds ran along in
+very much the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">-177-</a></span> same historical groove. Many a story the famous
+traveller recounted to his friend and to the others who were gathered
+there, and his presence was eagerly looked for. He had been to Egypt
+and had written from there letters that were published in the
+<i>Knickerbocker</i> when Hoffman was at its head. He had been to Arabia,
+to Poland, and to half a dozen other countries, and had written of his
+travels with a straightforward directness that was very much like his
+clear ringing talk. His visits to the book-shop happened years before
+he became interested in the Panama Railroad, for when this project
+came to his hand he devoted so much of himself to the building of the
+road across the Isthmus that he gave little time to writing.</p>
+
+<p>Another man who lingered in the book-shop more than any of the others
+was a sort of <i>protégé</i> of Clark's, since<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">-178-</a></span> Clark had in a great
+measure discovered him. His name was Frederick S. Cozzens, a wine
+merchant, and almost every afternoon he walked from his place around
+the next corner in Vesey Street, the second block below Broadway. It
+was Clark who recognized him as a humorist long before any one else
+appreciated him. His merry conversation was a delightful incident in
+the book-shop years and years before he moved to Yonkers and was then
+a great deal talked about as the author of the <i>Sparrowgrass Papers</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This book-shop was a veritable treasury of literary secrets, for if
+there was to be anything new in the literary world it was sure to be
+spoken of there before it was rumored about anywhere else. In this way
+the book-shop was first to hear of the publication of that journal of
+books and opinions, <i>Arcturus</i>, for Evert A.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">-179-</a></span> Duyckinck was one of the
+<i>habitués</i> there. This is the author who, seven years later, with his
+brother George was to start the publication of <i>The Literary World</i>;
+and these are the brothers Duyckinck who while editing this
+publication collected material and wrote their <i>Encyclopædia of
+American Literature</i>, which gave them fame long after both were dead.</p>
+
+<p>The publication of literary periodicals was in the air that year of
+1840, and the little book-shop, being a literary world unto itself,
+heard of all of them in turn before public announcement was made.
+James Aldrich, who four years before had given up a prosperous
+business for a writer's career, projected his <i>Literary Gazette</i>, in
+which most of his poems afterwards appeared; and Park Benjamin, rather
+a newcomer in the town, it having been only three years since he
+transferred his <i>New England Magazine</i> to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">-180-</a></span> New York under the title of
+the <i>American Monthly Magazine</i>, the same year established <i>Our New
+World</i>. He was a pleasant, affable man, and his companions at
+Bartlett's place thought much of the author of <i>The Old Sexton</i>.</p>
+
+<p>William Cullen Bryant lived in New York through these last days of
+Knickerbocker life and still lived there when these times were looked
+back upon as a period of great good-fellowship. He arrived in the city
+a young man, scarcely known, but he lived to be old, still a citizen,
+so entwined with the literary, social, and business interests that
+innumerable places can be pointed out to-day as bearing closely upon
+the poet's life and suggesting many reminders of himself and his work.</p>
+
+<p>In the far down-town, in Broadway at the Pine Street corner, these
+memories start. At that corner, in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">-181-</a></span> building long gone now, when
+Bryant was quite a stranger in the city, he edited the <i>New York
+Review and Athenæum</i>, in which his own poem, <i>Death of the Flowers</i>,
+was published, and in which Halleck's <i>Marco Bozzaris</i> first appeared.
+In his office there Bryant often talked with Percival and with
+Hillhouse, and there he discussed with Verplanck and Sands what manner
+of verse he would contribute to the newly started <i>Talisman</i> magazine.</p>
+
+<p>Up Broadway a little farther, at the Fulton Street corner, is the
+publication office of the <i>Evening Post</i>, a building which more than
+any other in New York should call forth thoughts of Bryant, for he was
+the editor of that newspaper for two-and-fifty years. When he joined
+the staff in 1826, in two years succeeding Coleman as editor and
+remaining so until his death, the <i>Evening Post</i> had its office<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">-182-</a></span> in
+William Street, near Pine. But Bryant spent many years of his
+editorial life in the Broadway building, and one of its attractions,
+now pointed out to all visitors, is the poet's window on an upper
+floor where he sat at his desk, that was always stacked high and
+negligently with all manner of useless papers and rejected
+manuscripts, and looked over the city to the south as he worked.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="WILLIAM_STREET" id="WILLIAM_STREET"></a>
+<img src="images/william.png" width="500" height="292" alt="WILLIAM STREET" title="WILLIAM STREET" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET,<br />
+LOOKING TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800.</p>
+
+<p>Standing beside this window there are memories of other men than
+Bryant to be called up, for here remembrance of many of his associates
+comes vividly to mind. There was William Leggett, the poet's friend
+and business companion, the brilliant journalist who wrote <i>Tales of a
+Country Schoolmaster</i>, and who worked beside Bryant from 1829 to 1836.
+With thoughts of him come those of Parke Godwin, who joined the
+<i>Evening Post</i> staff the year after Leggett<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">-183-</a></span> left it, who as long as
+the poet lived was his close friend, and who, marrying Bryant's
+daughter Fanny, wove closer year by year the relations that bound
+them. There are memories, too, of John Bigelow, who occupied an
+editorial chair on the <i>Post</i> for a dozen years after 1849.</p>
+
+<p>Going still farther up Broadway in search of Bryant reminders, you
+walk past the Post-Office and over the stretch of pavement made
+historic by the personal encounter between the poet and William L.
+Stone. This happened in 1831, and Stone, then editor of the
+<i>Commercial Advertiser</i>, was not at all friendly to Bryant. The two
+met there on the parkside, just opposite where Philip Hone lived, and
+Hone, looking from his window, saw the encounter. Sitting down he
+immediately wrote of it in the diary which is such a perfect
+reflection of the city's history<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">-184-</a></span> during the first half of the
+nineteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>Those were the days when Stone was collecting his information
+concerning the Indians which he afterwards utilized to such advantage
+in <i>The Life of Joseph Brant</i>, <i>The Life of Red Jacket</i>, and kindred
+books.</p>
+
+<p>Keeping on up Broadway to Leonard Street, thence over across town
+three blocks west to 92 Hudson Street, the stroller comes to a
+warehouse that has been reared above the home where Bryant lived when
+he became editor of the <i>Evening Post</i> and from which he often walked
+around the corner to 345 Greenwich Street to make an evening call on
+his near neighbor and friend J. Fenimore Cooper.</p>
+
+<p>On a little farther, up Varick Street this time, past the old Chapel
+of St. John's, lingering in its stately age<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">-185-</a></span> quiet and dignified amid
+the unwholesome neighbors that have grown up around it. On the very
+next block, close by Canal Street, there is a red brick house with
+stone steps, and here Bryant lived after his removal from Hudson
+Street.</p>
+
+<p>This same Varick Street leads straight north for half a mile until it
+touches Carmine Street, and in the second block of that thoroughfare
+is the house of age-worn brick that was the poet's "home in Carmine
+Street," of which he spoke so often and so affectionately.</p>
+
+<p>From this point, a walk due east straight across town to the Bowery is
+as direct a route as could be found to the house where Bryant boarded
+in Fourth Street near the Bowery. It was here he entertained the
+friendly Unitarian clergyman, Orville Dewey, and discussed poetry with
+him. Here too he began the acquaintance with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">-186-</a></span> his fellow-lodger, Parke
+Godwin, without a thought that Godwin would one day be his son-in-law,
+without a thought that they would walk side by side through a literary
+life for close upon half a century.</p>
+
+<p>Still on up-town, this time to Union Square. Between that green spot
+and Irving Place in Fifteenth Street, you come upon the home of the
+Century Club in its early days, when it was the chief place in America
+for the entertainment of men of letters. This club, founded by Bryant,
+was presided over at various times by Bancroft, Verplanck, and men
+whose names are equally well remembered. Bryant was the president when
+he died. The club now has a sumptuous home in Forty-third Street near
+Fifth Avenue.</p>
+
+<p>Last home of all of Bryant in New York is the brownstone house next to
+the College of St. Francis Xavier,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">-187-</a></span> in Sixteenth Street. Here he lived
+during the last years of his life when he was not passing the long
+spring and summer months at his well-beloved Cedarmere at Roslyn, Long
+Island, which had been his favorite abiding place since 1843. It was
+in this Sixteenth Street house that he wrote his last lines of
+verse&mdash;on the birthday of Washington; it was here that he died.</p>
+
+<p>One more structure not a great distance away calls up strongly the
+memory of Bryant. In Fourth Avenue at Twentieth Street is picturesque
+All Souls' Church, which has been there since 1855. Built of brick
+trimmed with Caen stone, planned in the form of a Greek cross, it was
+the first example of the Byzantine style of architecture in America.
+It was to have a tall, square, tower-like steeple, but this was never
+built. To this church the body of Bryant was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">-188-</a></span> taken, and there in the
+presence of all literary New York, and while the whole city mourned,
+Dr. Bellows, who had been his long-time friend, preached his funeral
+sermon.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">-189-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_X" id="Chapter_X"></a>Chapter X<br />
+Half a Century Ago</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">L</span>IKE many a landed estate, like many a quiet village, like many a
+battle-ground, like many a winding and historic road, like so many
+other places of interest of which the island of Manhattan has been the
+scene in days agone&mdash;Minniesland is not easy to locate. Relentlessly
+and remorselessly the great masses of brick and mortar have forged
+ahead in their furtherance of the city's growth, seeking a level as
+they spread, dominating the island, levelling the hills, and
+stretching over valleys until the surface of the land is altered
+beyond all knowing. Minniesland is one of the almost buried districts
+of the great city. Its last surviving relic, a square<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">-190-</a></span> ornamental
+structure, is the one token that it ever existed. Now that the town
+has surrounded this building, and streets have cut through and
+mutilated the first plan of the district, this house may be found
+standing where One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street slopes down to the
+Hudson River. Enter it; pass through its ancient halls, and, standing
+on its porch, blot from the mind the spot as it is and reconstruct it
+as it was half a century ago.</p>
+
+<p>Fifty years ago the city was far away there to the south, and this
+house, miles and miles away up-country, was at the edge of a forest
+stretching down the hillside to the river. There were other farmhouses
+around it. To the north was the mansion where Colonel Morris had lived
+before the Revolution; where Madame Jumel in later days had married
+Aaron Burr. To the south was the square<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">-191-</a></span> frame building, close by a
+clump of thirteen trees, where Alexander Hamilton had lived and where
+his widow stayed on after his death.</p>
+
+<p>Forgetting for a moment these old-time surroundings of the house by
+the forest edge, turn to the building itself, and imagine at the
+window a man sitting. He has long hair and clear blue eyes. He is
+painting at a small easel and working in quite a wonderful manner, for
+he is ambidextrous. He stops in his work and looks over the trees
+towards the Hudson. If that ever-moving river recalls to him his past
+life, John James Audubon, ornithologist, is reviewing a strange and
+adventurous career in many countries, full of losses, of suffering, of
+changes, of perils. He thinks of himself as a boy wandering through
+the dense, hot wilds of San Domingo; as a youth hard at his art
+studies in Paris under the master David; as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">-192-</a></span> man at his father's
+country place on the Schuylkill, failing utterly and absolutely when
+he goes into business, and letting his father's fortune slip away from
+his nerveless grasp. He remembers, too, his marriage, and how his wife
+followed his restless career with unchanging love and remained always
+a balance-wheel to his impetuosity. He recalls how, through all the
+changes of that early and unsettled life, the naturalist-love born in
+him when he roamed the tropical home of his youth was always strongest
+in his nature, and was constantly cropping out in his mania for
+collecting beautiful things that were quite worthless from a
+commercial point of view, just as it was shown in his personal
+appearance; for his manner of dressing, always with his hair falling
+over his shoulders, marked him as a man regardless of conventionality,
+a man so bound within the circle of his own<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">-193-</a></span> thoughts that he had
+little time or inclination to peek out and see which way the world was
+moving.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="AUDUBON" id="AUDUBON"></a>
+<img src="images/line193.png" width="372" height="256" alt="Audubon&#39;s Home, 156th St. and N. River" title="Audubon&#39;s Home, 156th St. and N. River" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Audubon had passed through the hardest struggles of his life, had
+travelled in England, in France, in Scotland, arranging for the
+publication of his bird pictures, that remarkable work which set his
+memory apart; he had succeeded in his life's object, and at the close
+of 1840 had come here to this forest hillside by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">-194-</a></span> Hudson, built
+the house on the estate Minniesland, named in honor of his wife, made
+it a luxurious abode, and there gathered his friends about him.</p>
+
+<p>With this home of Audubon there is associated a memory of the early
+days of the telegraph. When Samuel F.B. Morse built the first
+telegraph line to Philadelphia, he had it strung across the river from
+Fort Lee to the basement of Audubon's house, and there he received the
+first telegraphic message ever sent to the island of Manhattan. Here
+Audubon lived, wrote, and painted until even his rugged strength was
+worn out. He worked until those clever ambidextrous hands lost the
+cunning to work out the forms his active brain could still conceive.
+The day came, in 1851, when he died, fortunately before any great
+change had come over the beauties of Minniesland. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">-195-</a></span> peacefulness of
+Trinity Cemetery, which takes in part of the Audubon farm, is still
+faintly reminiscent of the scene of the ornithologist's later life,
+and there, close by the old house, is the grave of Audubon, and upon
+his tomb are sculptured the birds he loved so well, now keeping watch
+over him.</p>
+
+<p><a name="CHELSEA" id="CHELSEA"></a>
+<img src="images/line196.png" width="324" height="163" alt="Clement C. Moore&#39;s House, Chelsea" title="Clement C. Moore&#39;s House, Chelsea" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>While Audubon worked in his out-of-town retreat, another scholar and
+writer lived farther down the island towards the city. Clement C.
+Moore lived in a little district of his own called Chelsea Village,
+now merged into the city by so deft a laying out of streets that there
+is little irregularity at the point where town and village met. A bit
+of the old village remains exactly as it was in the General
+Theological Seminary, and the block on which it stands, Twentieth to
+Twenty-first streets, Ninth and Tenth avenues, is still called Chelsea
+Square. Clement C. Moore inherited<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">-196-</a></span> from his father, Bishop Benjamin
+Moore, a large tract of land along the river near the present Chelsea
+Square, and gave the land on which the seminary was built to that
+institution. He himself lived in a house which his father had occupied
+before him and which stood on the line of the present Twenty-third
+Street on the block between Ninth and Tenth avenues. It was a very old
+building, renowned for the fact that General Washington had stopped
+there one afternoon when he had his headquarters in the city. Clement
+C. Moore was a professor in the General Theological Seminary, and
+while there compiled the first Greek and Hebrew lexicons ever
+published in this country. But it is not by reason of his learned
+books or his philanthropy that his name is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">-197-</a></span> best recalled, but by a
+poem which he wrote for his children and of which the world at large
+might never have known but that it was sent without his knowledge and
+published in an up-State paper. This poem, the Christmas classic of
+<i>The Visit of St. Nicholas</i>, begins with "'T was the night before
+Christmas," and its simple yet merry jingle and delightful
+word-pictures have endeared it to all children since his time and will
+endure to please many more to come.</p>
+
+<p>All that there was of literary New York half a century ago centred
+about Anne C. Lynch. She established a circle, a gathering which
+increased or fell off in numbers as men and women of brains came and
+went. This was the first near approach to a <i>salon</i> in this country.
+In the early days of her coming to the city, Miss Lynch lived in a
+neat-appearing brick house in Waverly Place, just off Washington<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">-198-</a></span>
+Square. She moved elsewhere from time to time, the literary coterie
+moving about as she moved. At the height of her success, in 1855, she
+married the Italian educator, Vincenzo Botta, then in his second year
+in New York and occupying a professorship of Italian literature in the
+University of New York. The receptions of Mrs. Botta flourished and
+were as popular as had been those of Miss Lynch. Her writings, too,
+went on, and her most widely known work, the material for which she
+gathered during her intimate personal association with many authors,
+the <i>Handbook of Universal Literature</i>, was written when she lived in
+Thirty-seventh Street, a few doors west of Fifth Avenue.</p>
+
+<p>In the early years of Anne C. Lynch's receptions, one of her intimates
+was Caroline M. Kirkland, the friend of Bayard Taylor. Mrs. Kirk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">-199-</a></span>land,
+who had just returned after a residence in Michigan, sought her advice
+before she published <i>Forest Life</i>, which was the second of her
+descriptions of the sparsely settled region where she had spent three
+years of her life. The intimacy between these two continued for years,
+indeed until Mrs. Kirkland died, in 1864, stricken with paralysis
+while under the strain of managing a great sanitary fair during the
+Civil War.</p>
+
+<p>Through Mrs. Kirkland, Lydia M. Child was introduced at the Lynch
+receptions, when she was associated with her husband in conducting the
+<i>National Anti-Slavery Standard</i>. She had been a writer since her
+youth, having published her first book, <i>Hobomok</i>, in 1821. Her works
+had been much read, but lost much of their popularity after she
+published the first anti-slavery book in America, in 1833, under the
+title <i>An<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">-200-</a></span> Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans</i>. She
+ever remained prominent as an abolitionist, but because of her
+opinions lost caste as a writer of novels. But Miss Lynch cared little
+what opinions any one held so long as they really had opinions and
+would stand by them, and Mrs. Child was welcomed to her home until she
+left the city, in 1844, to spend the rest of her life in Wayland,
+Massachusetts.</p>
+
+<p>Very often Edgar Allan Poe attended the Lynch receptions, taking with
+him his delicate wife, who seemed to get better for the moment when
+she saw her husband the centre of a notable gathering. For even here
+Poe had quite a following of his own. It was on one of these evenings
+that he gave it as his opinion that <i>The Sinless Child</i> was one of the
+strongest long poems ever produced in America. This poem was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">-201-</a></span> just
+then making a great stir and on this special evening had been the
+subject of much discussion. The author was present, as she usually was
+where writers congregated, for the beautiful and witty Elizabeth Oakes
+Smith carried enthusiasm and inspiration wherever she went. She found
+time to form part of many a circle, even though her days were well
+filled, for she assisted her husband, "Major Jack Downing," in his
+editorial work. For many a year before she finally retired to
+Hollywood, South Carolina, she held her place as the first and only
+woman lecturer in America.</p>
+
+<p class="border1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em">
+<a name="WRITERS_4" id="WRITERS_4"></a>
+<img src="images/writers04.png" width="415" height="550" alt="writers" title="writers" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="sans"><span class="msm"><b>1. W.D. HOWELLS.<br />
+2. J.G. HOLLAND.<br />
+3. RICHARD GRANT WHITE.<br />
+4. BRANDER MATTHEWS.<br />
+5. WILLIAM WINTER.</b></span></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="centerbp"><span class="msm">From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble; courtesy of Mr. W.E.
+Benjamin.</span></p>
+
+<p>Another dear friend of Poe's might usually be found at these
+receptions. "Estella" Lewis, the poet, lived in Brooklyn and held
+there quite a court of clever people. The time came when she was,
+indeed, a friend in need to Poe in his time of dire necessity at
+Fordham. It was at her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">-202-</a></span> Brooklyn home that he read <i>The Raven</i> before
+it was published, and Estella Lewis was the last friend he visited
+before he left New York on the journey south which ended in his death.</p>
+
+<p>On the "Poe nights," too, Ann S. Stephens was usually to be found at
+Miss Lynch's. She became a much-read novelist, writing <i>Fashion and
+Famine</i> and <i>Mary Derwent</i>. On these nights, too, might be seen
+Margaret Fuller, the transcendentalist. She had left her Massachusetts
+home to take her place with Horace Greeley as literary editor of the
+<i>Tribune</i>, and between whiles devoted herself to charitable work in an
+effort to better the social condition of the poor of the metropolis.
+During most of her stay she lived in a locality much changed since her
+time, near where Forty-ninth Street touches the East River. A
+picturesque spot it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">-203-</a></span> was, overlooking the green stretches of
+Blackwell's Island, in the midst of suburban life. Her stay in New
+York was short. After a year or so she went to Europe and in Italy
+married the Marquis Ossoli. She was on her way back to America, in
+1850, a passenger in the merchantman <i>Elizabeth</i>, when the ship was
+wrecked off Fire Island and she perished with it.</p>
+
+<p>To this group of writers also belongs Frances Sargent Osgood. While,
+somewhere about the year 1846, the country was ringing with her
+praise, she was living the secluded life of an invalid, with her
+husband, in what was then becoming a fashionable neighborhood, 18 East
+Fourteenth Street. Once, in 1845, she had met Poe, had been instantly
+attracted by him, and became thereafter his staunch admirer,
+expressing her opinion persistently whenever opportunity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">-204-</a></span> offered. He,
+on his part, appreciated her poetic genius, and more than once
+referred to the scrupulous taste, faultless style, and magical grace
+of her verse. And several of his poems are addressed directly to her.</p>
+
+<p>There was a young man named Richard Henry Stoddard who frequented the
+Lynch receptions. He had worked for six years in a foundry learning
+the trade of iron moulder, and writing poetry as he worked. By the
+year 1848 he was beginning to make a name for himself, and his first
+volume of poems, <i>Footnotes</i>, had just been published. At Miss Lynch's
+house he met Miss Elizabeth Barstow, herself a poet, and some time
+later visited her at her home in Mattapoisett. This led to their
+marriage. Early in the year of his meeting with Miss Barstow, Stoddard
+made the acquaintance of Bayard Taylor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">-205-</a></span> Taylor had already travelled
+on foot over Europe, had crystallized the results of these travels in
+<i>Views Afoot</i>, and was then working under Greeley on the <i>Tribune</i>, as
+one of the several editors. Side by side with him worked that
+pure-hearted and thoughtful man who had been the instigator and
+supporter of the Brook Farm experiment, George Ripley, who wrote the
+<i>Tribune's</i> book criticisms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Views Afoot</i> was the most popular book of the day when Stoddard
+walked into the <i>Tribune</i> office and introduced himself to the author,
+finding him very hard at work in a little pen of a room. This was the
+start of a friendship which lasted for thirty years, and was only
+broken in upon by death.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after, Stoddard called upon Taylor, who then lived in
+Murray Street, a few steps from Broadway.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">-206-</a></span> Charles Fenno Hoffman, who
+occupied rooms in the same building, was then beginning to show signs
+of the mental breakdown which was to cloud the last thirty-four years
+of his life. But Hoffman was prosperous and occupied luxurious
+quarters on the ground floor, while Taylor, despite the popularity of
+his book, led a life of hard work and struggle. He was ill paid for
+his services on the <i>Tribune</i>, as Greeley did not believe in high
+salaries, and he lived up four flights of stairs in a sort of
+two-roomed attic. There Stoddard went almost every Saturday after his
+labors at the iron foundry, and there the friendship strengthened week
+by week; there Taylor taught Stoddard to smoke; there they discussed
+books and writers, and there wrote poetry together. There Taylor wrote
+<i>Kubleh</i> and <i>Ariel in the Cloven Pine</i>, and, too, the song that won
+for him<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">-207-</a></span> a prize when Barnum invited the entire country to a
+competition in writing a song for Jenny Lind. Taylor was visited by a
+great many friends, and with them the youthful Stoddard became
+acquainted. Sometimes to the house in Murray Street came Rufus W.
+Griswold, author of <i>Poets and Poetry of America</i>, <i>Prose Writers of
+America</i>, and kindred works. He had been one of Taylor's early
+advisers. The diplomatist and playwright, George H. Boker, often made
+one of the party at this time, when his tragedy, <i>Calaynos</i>, was being
+acted with great success at Sadlers's Wells Theatre in England.
+Another visitor was Richard Kimball, the lawyer-author, then
+enthusiastically putting the finishing touches to <i>St. Leger</i>.</p>
+
+<p>These days of changing fortunes were the most romantic of Taylor's
+career. Many other places in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">-208-</a></span> city are associated with him, one a
+house near Washington Square, where he lived for some years and wrote
+among other things the <i>Poems of the Orient</i>. His last city home was
+at 142 East Eighteenth Street. There he wrote <i>Deukalion</i>, and from
+there he started out, after being dined and fêted, on his mission as
+United States Minister to Germany. In England he met Carlyle. In Paris
+he had a "queer midnight supper" with Victor Hugo. In Germany, though
+he was then quite an ill man, he threw himself into official business
+with an energy that his constitution, worn by years of persistent hard
+work, would not warrant. Before the end of the year, the friends in
+America who had wished him farewell in April, congratulating him that
+he had attained an honor that he prized, knew that he lay dead in
+Berlin.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">-209-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_XI" id="Chapter_XI"></a>Chapter XI<br />
+Two Famous Meeting-Places</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">L</span>OOKING backward to the days before the Civil War is to bring into
+review a host of men who then walked through the city in which time
+has wrought so many changes, and to bring to the mind's eye familiar
+streets, but so altered that they seem like unknown highways.</p>
+
+<p>There was the Battery, with its old-time appearance, when the green
+grass of summer was not cast into deep and continual shade by an
+overhanging device of modern travel, and when its broad walk was a
+promenade, the like and popularity of which was not to be found
+elsewhere. There stood squat Castle Garden, half in the water and half
+on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">-210-</a></span> land, of nondescript style of architecture, suggesting a means
+of defence against an invading force and giving cause for wonder as to
+how it ever came by the flowery half of its name.</p>
+
+<p>Wandering swiftly through the lower end of the town, memory recalls
+old houses whose begrimed fronts bore the markings of a good hundred
+years. There, by the Bowling Green, was where Washington and Putnam
+had their headquarters. Farther up-town a hotel arose where Franconi's
+Hippodrome had been. Still farther along was Murray Hill, where there
+was just enough elevation of land to account in a measure for its
+name. Still farther on were country places beyond the town&mdash;beyond the
+town then, but now come to be the very heart's core of the metropolis.</p>
+
+<p>But of all the points of interest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">-211-</a></span> none comes fresher to the mind than
+Broadway. And though they have all changed, some swept away, some
+freshened up, others reconstructed into modern ways and made to keep
+pace with the progress of the passing days, no change or series of
+changes have brought about such complete renewal, if the reminiscent
+eye of the mind is to be believed, as has come to Broadway. Blotting
+out for the moment the city's chief canyon of travel as it is to-day,
+with its brobdingnagian structures, and its sights and sounds of
+business and pleasure and enterprise, let the highway of old take its
+place. As far back as fifty years ago, residences were gradually
+metamorphosed into business hives, but they managed to retain much of
+their conservative appearance for a long time, as though a battle were
+being waged as to whether Broadway should be a place of homes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">-212-</a></span> or a
+business thoroughfare. Trees by the curb line waved their branches in
+angry protest against commercial encroachments and in opposition to
+great glaring signs that blurted out business announcements in a
+bold-faced manner, that argued they had come to stay. While the
+Broadway of to-day gives the impression of narrowness because of the
+height of the sky-scrapers that border it, it then looked exceedingly
+wide. It was never a quiet street, for a continual procession of
+omnibuses and other vehicles on business and pleasure bent streamed
+along it. Among the popular resorts at which they often stopped was
+Charles Pfaff's, where beer was sold. There of an evening met the
+literary Bohemians of the city, in the days when Bohemia really
+existed and before the word had well-nigh lost significance and
+respect. They were gifted men with great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">-213-</a></span> power of intellect, who
+spoke without fear and without favor and whose every word expressed a
+thought. They were real men and they made the world a real place, a
+place without affectation, without pretence, without show, without
+need of applause, and without undue cringing to mere conventional
+forms. These were the characteristics of the Bohemians, and Bohemia
+was wherever two or three of them were gathered together. Bohemia was
+the atmosphere they carried with them, and whether upon the streets or
+in Pfaff's cellar they were at home. Pfaff's happening to be a
+convenient gathering-place, and beer happening to be the popular brew
+with most of them, they gathered there.</p>
+
+<p>It is a tradition that the place came into favor through the personal
+efforts of the energetic Henry Clapp. He was attracted to it, so the
+tradition<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">-214-</a></span> runs, soon after he started the <i>Saturday Press</i> in 1858,
+that lively publication, so brilliant while it lasted, so soon to die,
+and at its death having pasted on its outer door an announcement which
+read: "This paper is discontinued for want of funds, which by a
+coincidence is precisely the reason for which it was started." Whether
+it is true or not that Clapp was the first to call attention to the
+resort that came to be the meeting-place of the Bohemians, matters
+little. It grew to be such a meeting-place, and it is quite true that
+the members of the staff of the <i>Saturday Press</i> did more than any one
+else to give it a name that has lived through the years.</p>
+
+<p>It is hard to locate Pfaff's place now. Go to look for it on the east
+side of Broadway, above Bleecker Street three or four doors, and you
+will be disappointed, for there is noth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">-215-</a></span>ing to locate&mdash;just a
+conventional business house. Take an idle hour and picture it in
+memory; that will be better. Thinking of it now it is quite natural to
+contrast it with modern eating- and drinking-houses, famous for their
+mirror-lined walls, richly carved appointments, carpeted floors, and
+flashing electric lights. Pfaff's was a hole beneath the surface of
+the street, ill-lighted, ill-ventilated, ill-kept. But it is far
+better to read George Arnold's poem embodying the spirit of the
+cellar, and recording how the company was "very merry at Pfaff's."
+This poet was one of the merry company in the days when he wrote
+regularly for the columns of <i>Vanity Fair</i>. He has himself said that
+some of the poems were written in the late hours after an evening
+spent in the underground Broadway resort with Fitz-Hugh Ludlow, with
+Mortimer Thomson, the famous "Q.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">-216-</a></span> K. Philander Doesticks," and a score
+of like writers. It was Arnold, too, who caused an hour of sadness
+when he took there the story of the death of Henry W. Herbert, who was
+well known to all the habitués. They all knew his life's story; they
+had heard him tell of his father, the Dean of Manchester and cousin to
+the Earl of Carnarvon; they had heard him tell how he had come to New
+York from London, how he had taught in the school in Beaver Street
+near Whitehall, and how in that little school he had partly written
+his historical romance <i>Cromwell</i>, and how he had mapped out some of
+the others that followed it. They knew, too, how he had, under the
+name of "Frank Forester," produced such books as <i>American Game in its
+Season</i>, <i>The Horse and Horsemanship in North America</i>, and become
+famous by novel-writing. He was the first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">-217-</a></span> to introduce sports of the
+field into fiction in America. Some of his comrades knew the
+unhappiness that had crept into his life, but even his dearest friends
+were not prepared for the news which Arnold brought one day, that
+"Frank Forester" had died by his own hand in a room on the second
+floor of the Stevens House, there in Broadway by the Bowling Green,
+not more than the throw of a stone from the place where, in his early
+days in New York, he had taught school.</p>
+
+<p>Another friend of George Arnold's, who sometimes spent hours with him
+at Pfaff's, was George Farrar Browne, but few will remember him by
+this name, while many will recall that which he made famous, Artemus
+Ward. He had passed his apprenticeship as a printer and reporter, had
+made the country ring with the name of the lively but illiterate
+showman,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">-218-</a></span> and was in New York trying to carry <i>Vanity Fair</i> to
+success&mdash;a task which he could not accomplish.</p>
+
+<p>Another of the Pfaff company was Thomas Bailey Aldrich. This was at a
+time when he had editorial charge of the <i>Saturday Press</i> after he had
+come from Portsmouth and served three years at his desk in the
+commission house of his rich uncle. Working over the books of the
+firm, his mind was often busy with themes outside of the commission
+house, all tending towards a literary career.</p>
+
+<p>Another lounger at Pfaff's whose name has become famous in the world
+of letters was William Winter, who was sometimes a visitor. Howells
+went there on his first visit to New York and dined with Walt Whitman,
+and there were others&mdash;Bayard Taylor and Stedman among them.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="UNIVERSITY" id="UNIVERSITY"></a>
+<img src="images/line219.png" width="363" height="269" alt="The University Building" title="The University Building" />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was only a few minutes' walk from Pfaff's to Washington Square,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">-219-</a></span>
+and there could be found the substantial-appearing University
+building, where Theodore Winthrop had his office and where he wrote
+<i>Cecil Dreeme</i> and <i>John Brent</i>. From that gloomy building he was
+called to the war, and to his home there friends brought the details
+of his death&mdash;shot through the heart while rallying his men in an
+attack which he had helped to plan at the action of Big Bethel in
+June, 1861. At the time<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">-220-</a></span> of his death he was scarcely known as a
+writer, and it was not until the publication of <i>Cecil Dreeme</i> that
+the world realized that it had lost an entertaining story-teller as
+well as a brave soldier when Winthrop fell.</p>
+
+<p>Among others who served in the Seventh Regiment of New York, of which
+Theodore Winthrop was a member, was Fitz-James O'Brien, the erratic
+and brilliant journalist, whose tale of <i>The Diamond Lens</i> was his
+best contribution to the literature of the day. The only literary man
+of the Seventh to return to New York was O'Brien's friend, Charles
+Graham Halpine, who resigned, and lived to make his name famous by his
+humorous sketches of army life supposed to have been penned by
+"Private Miles O'Reilly."</p>
+
+<p>The name of Winthrop naturally suggests the name of Dr. John W.
+Draper, who was associated with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">-221-</a></span> University of New York for more
+than thirty years. His technical writings made his name known over the
+world, and he spent many years of his life in the dingy old University
+building working on a <i>History of Intellectual Development in Europe</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="STUDIO" id="STUDIO"></a>
+<img src="images/line221.png" width="301" height="206" alt="The Studio Building in West 70th St." title="The Studio Building in West 70th St." />
+</p>
+
+<p>Fitz-James O'Brien has told of how he was once sent by a newspaper to
+see Henry T. Tuckerman, in a big brown building in Tenth Street. This
+studio building, just east of Sixth Avenue, is there yet, and the room
+on the second floor where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">-222-</a></span> O'Brien had his talk with the scholarly
+essayist and critic may be seen. At that time Tuckerman was writing
+<i>The Criterion; or, The Test of Talk about Familiar Things</i>. In this
+large room overlooking the street it was his custom on Sunday evenings
+to entertain his literary friends.</p>
+
+<p>Another home where there were Sunday-evening gatherings for many years
+was that of Alice and Ph&#339;be Cary. This house, one of the few
+residences remaining in a neighborhood otherwise given up to business
+structures to-day, is numbered 53 on East Twentieth Street. Here the
+Carys lived when they made their home in this city, coming from their
+Ohio birthplace to a wider field of activity. You can walk now into
+the little parlor where the gatherings were held. You can go into the
+room above, where Ph&#339;be worked&mdash;when she found time; for in the
+joint<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">-223-</a></span> housekeeping of the sisters Ph&#339;be often said that she had to
+be the housekeeper before she could be the poet. In that room she
+wrote, after coming from church one Sunday, the hymn which has made
+her name famous and well-beloved, <i>Nearer My Home</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="EAST_20" id="EAST_20"></a>
+<img src="images/line223.png" width="168" height="174" alt="53 EAST 20th St." title="53 EAST 20th St." class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>There on the same floor was the favorite work-corner of Alice, and
+sitting close by the window, where she could look out into the street,
+she wrote many of her poems of memory and of domestic affection. In
+this room, too, she died.</p>
+
+<p>To recite the names of those Sunday-evening callers would be to recall
+all the writers in the city at that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">-224-</a></span> time, and to mention all those
+prominent in the world of letters who came from out of town. James
+Parton was often one of the company, in the days when he was arranging
+the material for his <i>Life of Horace Greeley</i>, material gathered from
+those who had known the great editor during his early days in New
+Hampshire and Vermont. Greeley himself dropped in occasionally, and
+also another member of the <i>Tribune</i> staff, Richard Hildreth, the
+writer from Massachusetts, who had been associate editor of the Boston
+<i>Atlas</i> and who in after years was United States Consul at Trieste.</p>
+
+<p>Herman Melville was invited to the Twentieth Street house at the time
+when he was at work on his <i>Battle Pieces</i>, and could look back on
+years of adventure by land and by sea, and on the hardships that had
+supplied him with the material<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">-225-</a></span> from which to write so much that was
+odd and interesting. At one of these Sunday-night receptions, at which
+Alice Cary introduced him first, Melville told the company, and told
+it far better than he had ever written anything (at least so one of
+his hearers has recorded), the story of that life of trial and
+adventure. He began at the beginning, telling of his boyhood in New
+York, of his shipping as a common sailor, and of his youthful
+wanderings in London and Liverpool. In true sailor fashion, and with
+picturesque detail, he spun the tale of his eighteen months' cruise to
+the sperm fisheries in the Pacific, and held his hearers' close
+attention while he related the coarse brutality of his captain, who
+had forced him to desert at the Marquesas Islands. Then he traced his
+wanderings with his one companion through the trackless forest on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">-226-</a></span>
+island of Nukahiva and of his capture by the Typee cannibals. He
+related how there was little hope in his heart that he could ever
+escape, but that he still held tight to life and his courage did not
+desert him; how with the thought of death before him by night and by
+day he yet hourly studied the strange life about him and garnered
+those facts and fancies which he afterwards used to such advantage in
+his successful <i>Typee</i>. It was a thrilling tale to listen to, in
+strange contrast to his humdrum later life when he was an employee of
+the New York Custom House. When you go to see the home of the Cary
+sisters, walk on a few blocks to East Twenty-sixth Street, and there
+see the house numbered 104. On this site stood Melville's house, where
+he lived for many years and where, when he had come to be an old man,
+he died.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">-227-</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mary L. Booth was another visitor to the home of the Cary sisters, and
+with them she talked over a great many details of her <i>History of the
+City of New York</i>, which she was at that time energetically engaged
+upon. And there this future editor of <i>Harper's Bazar</i> met Martha J.
+Lamb when Mrs. Lamb came to the city from Chicago. A talk between the
+two had much to do with directing Mrs. Lamb's thought into historical
+lines, and led to her publishing, some seventeen years later, her
+<i>History of New York</i>, and to her assuming, in 1883, the editorship of
+the <i>Magazine of American History</i>. Mary L. Booth used to tell very
+amusingly how she had once met Samuel G. Goodrich, then famous as
+"Peter Parley," at the little house in Twentieth Street, and how
+disappointed she had been in listening to his talk and not finding it
+as impressive as it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">-228-</a></span> should have been as coming from the author and
+editor of more than one hundred and fifty volumes. This incident
+occurred within a year or two of "Peter Parley's" death.</p>
+
+<p>That popular writer of juvenile tales, Alice Haven, was also a visitor
+of the Cary sisters. Her early life had been spent in Philadelphia,
+where she had been married to J.C. Neal, but after his death she had
+removed to New York and made her home there. She was very much
+interested in the work of St. Luke's Hospital, which was not a great
+distance away, and often came to talk with Ph&#339;be Cary about that
+institution. Miss Cary herself was interested in it because of her
+regard for its founder, Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg, who had
+written a hymn that was a great favorite of hers, <i>I Would Not Live
+Alway</i>. Dr. Muhlenberg was the rector of the Church of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">-229-</a></span> the Holy
+Communion, and in 1846 on St. Luke's Day after his sermon he suggested
+to his congregation that of the collection that was about to be taken
+half should be put aside as the commencement of a fund which should be
+used to found an institution for the care of the sick poor. The fund
+started that day with thirty dollars, and that was the beginning of
+St. Luke's Hospital. It was not a great while before the actual
+hospital work was begun in a building at 330 Sixth Avenue, near
+Twentieth Street, and there had a home until the completion of that at
+Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street, where it remained until those
+quarters were outgrown, and in 1896 it removed to the new buildings on
+Cathedral Heights.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">-230-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Chapter_XII" id="Chapter_XII"></a>Chapter XII<br />
+Some of the Writers of To-Day</h2>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><span class="dropcap">T</span>HERE is little of old-time picturesqueness in the city of New York
+to-day, where buildings are too towering, too massive, too thickly
+clustered to offer artistic and unique effects. But a stroll about the
+homes of the writers of the city invests their rather commonplace
+surroundings with more than passing interest.</p>
+
+<p>In the older part of the town, the section that was all of New York a
+hundred years ago and is now the far down-town, there are many
+reminders of those friends whose books are on the most easily reached
+library shelf.</p>
+
+<p>To No. 10 West Street, that stands on the river front, Robert Louis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">-231-</a></span>
+Stevenson was taken by a fellow-voyager in 1879; here he stopped the
+first night he spent in America, and of this house he wrote in the
+<i>Amateur Emigrant</i>. From the waterside just at dusk, catching a dim
+outline of the varying housetops is to glimpse some old castle of
+feudal times. The lowest building in all this block is No. 10&mdash;a
+meagre, dingy, two-story structure that has come to be very old. The
+doors and windows seem to have been made for some other building, and
+to be trying to get back to where they belong, bulging out in the
+struggle and making rents in the house-front.</p>
+
+<p><a name="WEST" id="WEST"></a>
+<img src="images/line232.png" width="276" height="304" alt="No. 10 West St." title="No. 10 West St." class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Crossing Battery Park to State Street, at No. 17 is the tall
+Chesebrough building that has sprung up on the spot where William
+Irving, brother of Washington, lived, and where the Salmagundi wits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">-232-</a></span>
+gathered sometimes in the evening. Two or three doors farther along is
+a survival of old New York which delights the eye, with its porticoes
+and oval windows, odd appearing and many-sided; a mansion when wealth
+and affluence clustered around the Battery. This is the scene of the
+first few chapters of Bunner's <i>Story of a New York House</i>. Around the
+corner and through the wide doors of the Produce Exchange, at the back
+of that building and literally hidden in the middle of the block, is
+an old street that seems to have lost its usefulness, a quaint and
+curious way full half a century and more behind the times, now bearing
+the name of Marketfield<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">-233-</a></span> Street, but once called Petticoat Lane. It is
+no longer a thoroughfare, for in its length of half a block it has
+neither beginning nor end. Here is all that is left of the house in
+which Julia Ward Howe was born.</p>
+
+<p>Passing along Broad Street, where Edmund C. Stedman, the poet and
+financier, has an office close to Wall Street, you come in a few
+minutes to the Custom House. To enter that building is to get lost in
+a moment. Pass through the door into a veritable trackless wilderness
+of narrow black halls, with rooms that open in the most unexpected
+corners, and come after a while to the Debenture Room of old, and to
+the window near which Richard Henry Stoddard had his desk for close
+upon twenty years.</p>
+
+<p>Freed from the intricacies of the old building, continue the stroll
+up-town, and in Park Row, at No. 29,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">-234-</a></span> on the third floor, is found the
+old home of the <i>Commercial Advertiser</i>, where Jesse Lynch Williams
+worked, and wrote <i>A City Editor's Conscience</i>, and other stories. A
+little way farther on is the <i>Tribune</i> building, where William Winter
+has his den, and under the same roof the room where Irving Bacheller
+conducted a newspaper syndicate before <i>Eben Holden</i> was thought of.
+Then on again a few steps to the <i>Sun</i> building and into the room,
+little changed from the time when Charles A. Dana sat there so many
+years, and, close by, the reporters' room where Edward W. Townsend
+worked, and wrote about <i>Chimmie Fadden</i>. There is a winding
+staircase, that the uninitiated could never find, leading into the
+rooms of the <i>Evening Sun</i>, where Richard Harding Davis "reported,"
+and where he conceived some of the Van Bibber stories. Directly
+across<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">-235-</a></span> the street is the <i>World</i> office, and looking from the
+windows, so high up that the city looks like a Lilliputian village,
+you have the view that Elizabeth Jordan looked upon during the ten
+years she was getting inspiration for the <i>Tales of a City Room</i>. Down
+narrow Frankfort Street is Franklin Square, the home of <i>Harper's
+Magazine</i>, where George W. Curtis established his Easy Chair in which
+he was enthroned so long, and which is now occupied by William Dean
+Howells.</p>
+
+<p>Cherry Street leads out of Franklin Square direct to Corlear's Hook
+Park. Half a hundred feet before that green spot is reached, in a
+squalid neighborhood of dirty house-fronts, ragged children, begrimed
+men, and slovenly women, there is a house numbered 426, above the door
+of which are the words: "I was sick and ye visited Me." Dwellers in
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">-236-</a></span> neighborhood know that this is a hospital for those suffering
+from incurable disease, but, beyond this, seem to know very little
+about it. It is the home of Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, the daughter of
+Nathaniel Hawthorne, who has given up her entire life to brighten many
+another. In the same block, but nearer to Scammel Street, which is
+next towards the south, Brent's foundry used to be in the days when
+Richard Henry Stoddard was an iron-worker and the friend of Bayard
+Taylor, whom he visited in Murray Street.</p>
+
+<p><a name="RIIS" id="RIIS"></a>
+<img src="images/line237.png" width="194" height="274" alt="Where &quot;How The Other Half Lives&quot; was written" title="Where &quot;How The Other Half Lives&quot; was written" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>From this far East Side to Washington Square is quite a distance, but
+stop half-way at Police Headquarters and the nearby reporters'
+offices. Any one there will be glad to point out the room where Jacob
+A. Riis worked so many years and wrote most of <i>How the Other Half
+Lives</i>, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">-237-</a></span> from which he carried out his ideas for benefiting the
+city poor&mdash;carried them out so well that President Roosevelt called
+him New York's most useful citizen.</p>
+
+<p>In Washington Square the wanderer has much to think of in the literary
+associations recalled by this green garden that has blossomed from a
+pauper graveyard, and which has been written of by Howells, Brander
+Matthews, Bayard Taylor, Bunner, Henry James, F. Hopkinson Smith, and
+almost every writer who has brought New York into fiction.</p>
+
+<p><a name="MACDOUGAL" id="MACDOUGAL"></a>
+<img src="images/line239.png" width="203" height="282" alt="146 Macdougal St." title="146 Macdougal St." class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>From the square, stroll in any direction for defi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">-238-</a></span>nite reminders.
+Towards the south and around into Macdougal Street, at No. 146, there
+is a dingy brick house with a trellised portico, where Brander
+Matthews and his friends used to dine, and which James L. Ford made
+the Garibaldi of his <i>Bohemia Invaded</i>. Walk towards the east, past
+the site of the University building, and stand at the Greene Street
+corner, at No. 21 Washington Place, where Henry James was born.
+Towards the west a few steps into Waverly Place, at No. 108, is a
+squat red brick house where Richard Harding Davis wrote his newspaper
+tales. Across, at the corner, lived George Parsons Lathrop when he
+wrote <i>Behind Time</i>, and there his wife, Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, wrote
+<i>Along the Shore</i>. An historic site this house stands on, for it is
+where Stoddard and Taylor once lived together. A block to the north is
+old-time Clinton Place, which now,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">-239-</a></span> for modern convenience, recking
+not of memory or of sentiment, has become Eighth Street. There, to the
+left of Fifth Avenue, at No. 18, is where Paul du Chaillu wrote <i>Ivar
+the Viking</i>, and to the right the house opposite, covered from
+basement to eaves with green clustering vines, is the home of Richard
+Watson Gilder.</p>
+
+<p><a name="WAVERLY" id="WAVERLY"></a>
+<img src="images/line240.png" width="199" height="280" alt="108 Waverly Place" title="108 Waverly Place" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is only a question now of crossing half a dozen city blocks towards
+the east to wander into what was called the Bouwerie Village. Modern
+streets and modern improvements have so overridden the village of old
+that traces of it are few and difficult to find. Here in this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">-240-</a></span>
+district many a writer of New York has lived. At Fourth Avenue and
+Tenth Street still stands the house, known to all who lived there as
+"The Deanery," in which Miss Annie Swift kept boarders, and where the
+family of Richard Henry Stoddard lived during the last four years that
+Mr. Stoddard held his post in the Custom House. Here Stedman, and
+Bayard Taylor, and Howells were visitors, with scores of other
+writers; here Mrs. Stoddard wrote <i>The Morgensons</i>, and here Stoddard
+himself wrote <i>The King's Bell</i>, <i>Melodies and Madrigals</i>, and other
+poems. Not more than a block away, in the house num<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">-241-</a></span>bered 118, Richard
+Grant White had his home when he wrote <i>The New Gospel of Peace,
+According to St. Benjamin</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="WHITE" id="WHITE"></a>
+<img src="images/line241.png" width="178" height="253" alt="Richard Grant White&#39;s Home" title="Richard Grant White&#39;s Home" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Around the corner in Third Avenue, at Thirteenth Street, is a tablet
+telling of the pear tree that Peter Stuyvesant brought from Holland,
+that grew and flourished on the edge of the Stuyvesant orchard for
+more than two hundred years. Within a stone's throw of the tree in the
+sixties, and while it yet bloomed, Stoddard lived with his friend
+Bayard Taylor, and here the <i>Life of Humboldt</i> came from Stoddard's
+pen. Around another corner into Fourteenth Street and down a block to
+No. 224, Paul du Chaillu had apartments when he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">-242-</a></span> wrote <i>The Land of
+the Midnight Sun</i>; but the tree-filled yard and the vine-covered
+cottage next to it, on which the writer's window looked, are buried
+beneath a dwelling in the full flush of newness.</p>
+
+<p>In Fifteenth Street, just past Stuyvesant Park, is a really
+picturesque row of tiny houses that must have been there when
+Stuyvesant Park was very new indeed. They have balconies enclosed by
+iron fretwork, and the first in the row is especially dainty and
+attractive, and quite overshadowed by the lofty building that has
+grown up beside it. In this out-of-the-way corner the Stoddards lived
+for something more than a quarter of a century, and here they died,
+the brilliant son first, then Mrs. Stoddard, and finally Richard Henry
+Stoddard, in 1903.</p>
+
+<p><a name="STODDARD" id="STODDARD"></a>
+<img src="images/line243.png" width="197" height="299" alt="Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died" title="Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Along the parkside and around the corner to Seventeenth Street, No.
+330 was another interesting landmark<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">-243-</a></span> until, quite lately, it was
+swept away. Brander Matthews lived there, and could look across the
+square to the gray towers of St. George's while he wrote the <i>French
+Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century</i>. H.C. Bunner had quarters there
+when he wrote <i>A Woman of Honor</i> and other stories of that period, and
+Richard Grant White was a long dweller there.</p>
+
+<p>Northward a few streets, on the south side of Gramercy Park, is the
+house of John Bigelow, writer of half a dozen important books, who
+fifty years and more ago assisted William Cullen Bryant in the
+editorial conduct of the <i>Evening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">-244-</a></span> Post</i>. Only a few steps away, in
+historic Irving Place, the ivy-covered house is where Mrs. Burton
+Harrison wrote <i>Sweet Bells out of Tune</i>, and on another block farther
+to the south the Lotus Club long had its home, the building now given
+over to commercial uses.</p>
+
+<p><a name="AUTHORS" id="AUTHORS"></a>
+<img src="images/line244.png" width="186" height="294" alt="Where the Author&#39;s Club was organized" title="Where the Author&#39;s Club was organized" class="floatr" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the short stretch of Fifteenth Street that leads from Irving Place
+to Union Square are two points closely associated with the literature
+of the city. One is midway the distance, the prosaic office of a
+brewer now, but once the home of the Century Club when Bancroft the
+historian was its president. The other is nearer to the square, with a
+tall iron<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">-245-</a></span> fence, and a gateway not at all in keeping with the modern
+appearance of the street. Behind the tall fence is a bit of
+greensward, and beyond that a house quaintly unusual in appearance,
+seeming to shrink from sight in the shadows cast about it. This is
+where Richard Watson Gilder at one time lived, where Charles De Kay
+organized the Authors' Club, and where the Society of American Artists
+was formed.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Union Square there is in Eighteenth Street the house numbered
+121 where Brander Matthews lived for fourteen or more years, where he
+wrote many of his books, and where was held the first meeting to
+organize the American Copyright<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">-246-</a></span> League. It was Professor Matthews who
+gave the dinner at which the unique society known as the Kinsmen came
+into being, at the Florence on the same street at number 105,&mdash;an
+apartment house in which Ellen Glasgow, Elizabeth Bisland, and Edgar
+Saltus have made their homes, and in which the widow of Herman
+Melville is now living.</p>
+
+<p><a name="GREELEY" id="GREELEY"></a>
+<img src="images/line245.png" width="154" height="254" alt="Horace Greeley&#39;s Home" title="Horace Greeley&#39;s Home" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In nearby Nineteenth Street is still standing No. 35, a house where
+Horace Greeley lived, with William Allen Butler, the author of
+<i>Nothing to Wear</i>, for a next-door neighbor. Three blocks farther on
+is the big office building where Dr. Josiah Strong wrote most of <i>Our
+Country</i>, and where Hamilton W. Mabie has a study in the editorial
+rooms of <i>The Outlook</i>. A few steps farther in Twenty-second Street,
+at No. 33, Stephen Crane wrote part of <i>The Red Badge of Courage</i> and
+worked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">-247-</a></span> on the daily newspapers. Close by in Fifth Avenue is the
+publishing house where the critic and essayist, William Crary
+Brownell, author of <i>French Traits</i>, and other works, spends his
+business hours. Around the corner in Twenty-third Street, on the top
+floor of another publishing house is the den of the energetic author,
+editor, and critic, Jeannette L. Gilder. Across Madison Square, at the
+Twenty-fifth Street corner, Edgar Saltus had apartments for some time,
+and just off Broadway in Twenty-seventh Street, at No. 26, Edgar
+Fawcett wrote <i>A Mild Barbarian</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On up Madison Avenue past Twenty-eighth Street is a brownstone
+dwelling with a luxuriantly blooming window garden, where James Lane
+Allen lives when he is in town and revises his writings. A few steps
+into the next thoroughfare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">-248-</a></span> the Little Church Around the Corner
+nestles in a populous district, and in the next block, just beyond the
+Woman's Hotel, Mrs. Burton Harrison has written many of her books. Two
+blocks away, in the <i>Life</i> building, John A. Mitchell, founder of the
+paper, spends several working hours of each day.</p>
+
+<p>Going farther up-town in Park Avenue just beyond Thirty-sixth Street
+is a substantial building where Dr. Josiah Gilbert Holland wrote and
+where he died. In nearby Thirty-seventh Street hover memories of Parke
+Godwin, who married the daughter of William Cullen Bryant, and whose
+business and literary interests were closely entwined with those of
+his father-in-law. A few steps westward is the solemnly quiet Brick
+Presbyterian Church, where Dr. Henry van Dyke preached before he was
+called to Princeton.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">-249-</a></span> Turning into Forty-sixth Street, note a house
+distinguished from its neighbors by a doorway of wrought-iron, where
+John A. Mitchell did much of the writing of <i>Amos Judd</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="BEEKMAN" id="BEEKMAN"></a>
+<img src="images/line249.png" width="378" height="214" alt="The Beekman Mansion near 52nd St. [Transcriber&#39;s Note: 51st St.] East River" title="The Beekman Mansion near 52nd St. [Transcriber&#39;s Note: 51st St.] East River" />
+</p>
+
+<p>Across town, where Fifty-first Street touches the East River, is a
+street so short and so out-of-the-way that few New Yorkers have ever
+heard of it. It is called Beekman Place, and in it survives the memory
+of the old Beekman house which stood near by, and which in the days of
+the Revolution was used as a British headquarters. It was in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">-250-</a></span>
+Beekman house that Nathan Hale rested his last night on earth. Here in
+this quiet spot Henry Harland lived in the eighties, when he was
+employed in the Register's Office and got up at two o'clock many and
+many a morning to write (under the name of Sidney Luska) some of his
+earlier books. The windows of his home looked out upon a beautiful and
+unusual city scene. Any one going now to where Fifty-first Street ends
+at an embankment high above the river may see it just as he saw it
+then&mdash;see the waves splashing on a rocky shore, with neither docks nor
+wharves nor factories to interfere; see a broad river; see a green
+island with stone turreted towers, and in the distance, forming a
+background, the irregular sky-line of the Brooklyn borough shore.</p>
+
+<p>Farther up-town to Central Park, and there on the south side is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">-251-</a></span>
+mammoth apartment house close to Sixth Avenue, where William Dean
+Howells did much of his work; and on beyond the avenue, at No. 150,
+Kate Douglas Wiggin evolved <i>Penelope's Experiences</i>. Still on
+up-town, following the easterly side of the park, in Sixty-fourth
+Street, at No. 16, Carl Schurz lived, and in Seventy-seventh Street is
+the square house of stone where Paul Leicester Ford met such a fearful
+death.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing Central Park to the far west side, the journeyer comes to
+wide, tree-lined West End Avenue, and there at Ninety-third Street,
+almost upon the shores of the Hudson River, in a locality of beautiful
+homes, Brander Matthews, author of <i>Vignettes of Manhattan</i> and <i>A
+Confident To-morrow</i>, lives and works. Returning down-town on the
+westerly side of the city, stop just beyond Amsterdam Avenue and
+Eighty-sixth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">-252-</a></span> Street before a house, colonial as to its doors and
+windows at least, the home of that distinguished naval officer and
+writer, Captain A.T. Mahan. On the nearest corner is the church where
+funeral services were held over Paul du Chaillu when his body was
+brought back from Russia. Down a few streets, John Denison Champlin,
+author and encyclopædist, has his home, in a yellow apartment house,
+and half a block along Seventy-eighth Street stands the terra cotta
+building occupied by Stedman before he moved to Bronxville. Down to
+Sixty-fifth Street now, a dozen steps or more west of Central Park,
+Edgar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">-253-</a></span> Fawcett conceived <i>A Romance of Old New York</i>, before going to
+Europe for an indefinite stay.</p>
+
+<p><a name="HUTTON" id="HUTTON"></a>
+<img src="images/line252.png" width="176" height="254" alt="Lawrence Hutton&#39;s House" title="Lawrence Hutton&#39;s House" class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p>In Thirty-fourth Street, midway between Seventh and Eighth Avenues,
+visit the solid little brick house, with green shutters and an air of
+dignity that proclaims it of another time. This has stood for three
+quarters of a century and at one time had no neighbors. There, until
+1898, when he went to Princeton, Lawrence Hutton gathered his
+collection of objects artistic from all parts of the world; there he
+kept his assortment of death masks; there he wrote and entertained his
+friends, authors, actors, men of different callings.</p>
+
+<p>Let the last step be to that reminder of old Chelsea Village, in
+Twenty-third Street beyond Ninth Avenue, called London Terrace. The
+Terrace was built when Chelsea was really a village, and exists
+to-day<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">-254-</a></span> long after the village has ceased to have an identity. One
+house in the row, No. 413, is particularly interesting, picturesquely
+and historically, carrying as its literary association the name of
+Charles De Kay, critic and author&mdash;a name of to-day and of the past as
+well, for he is the grandson of the poet, Joseph Rodman Drake.</p>
+
+<p class="centertbp"><a name="DEKAY" id="DEKAY"></a>
+<img src="images/line254.png" width="378" height="289" alt="De Kay&#39;s House&mdash;London Terrace" title="De Kay&#39;s House&mdash;London Terrace" />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">-255-</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Index" id="Index"></a>Index</h2>
+
+<div class="index">
+<h3 class="tp"><b>A</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Adventures of Captain Bonneville, The</i>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Afara</i>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Age of Reason, The</i>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br />
+<br />
+Aldrich, James, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Allen, James Lane, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+All Souls' Church, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Along the Shore</i>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Amateur Emigrant</i>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>American</i>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br />
+<br />
+American Copyright League, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>American Game in its Season</i>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>American Monthly Magazine</i>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>American Review</i>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>American Theatre, The</i>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Amos Judd</i>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Analectic Magazine</i>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans</i>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a><br />
+<br />
+"Ancient Club of New York," <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br />
+<br />
+André, Major John, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Androborus</i>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Annabel Lee</i>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br />
+<br />
+Apollo dancing rooms, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Arcturus</i>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ariel in the Cloven Pine</i>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Arnold, Benedict, House of, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a><br />
+<br />
+Arnold, George, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Arthur Mervyn</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br />
+<br />
+Astor House, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Astor, John Jacob, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a><br />
+<br />
+Astor Place Opera House, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Astoria</i>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">-256-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Atlantic Monthly</i>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Audubon, John James, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_195'>195</a><br />
+<br />
+Authors' Club, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>B</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Bacheller, Irving, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Backwoodsman, The</i>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+Bancroft, George, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br />
+<br />
+Barlow, Joel, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br />
+<br />
+Barstow, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+Bartlett, John R., <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-<a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+Bartlett's Book Shop, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-<a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Battle Pieces</i>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Beauties of Santa Cruz</i>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br />
+<br />
+Beekman House, The, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Behind Time</i>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bells, The</i>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ben Bolt</i>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br />
+<br />
+Benjamin, Park, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Biblical Researches in Palestine</i>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Bigelow, John, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a><br />
+<br />
+Bisland, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Bleecker, Eliza, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Bleecker Street, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br />
+<br />
+Bloomingdale Village, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bohemia Invaded</i>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+Boker, George H., <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+Bonneville, Captain, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Bonneville, Madame, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br />
+<br />
+Books of New Amsterdam, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a><br />
+<br />
+Booth, Mary L., <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+Botta, Mrs., <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a><br />
+<br />
+Botta, Vincenzo, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a><br />
+<br />
+Bouwerie Village, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><br />
+<br />
+Bowling Green, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br />
+<br />
+Bradford's printing press, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br />
+<br />
+Bradford, William, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+Bradford, William, tomb of, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>-<a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bravo, The</i>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Bread-and-Cheese Club, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>-<a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Brevoort, Henry, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br />
+<br />
+Brickmaking in New Amsterdam, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">-257-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Briggs, Charles F., <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>British Prison Ship, The</i>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br />
+<br />
+Broad Street, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+Broadway, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Broadway Journal</i>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a><br />
+<br />
+Brook Farm, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+Brown, Charles Brockden, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br />
+<br />
+Browne, George Farrar, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><br />
+<br />
+Brownell, William Crary, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Bryant, William Cullen, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>-<a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br />
+<br />
+Bunner, H.C., <a href='#Page_243'>243</a><br />
+<br />
+Burns's Coffee House, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br />
+<br />
+Burr, Aaron, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br />
+<br />
+Burton, William E., <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+Butler, William Allen, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>C</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Calaynos</i>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+Cary, Alice, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>-<a href='#Page_228'>228</a><br />
+<br />
+Cary, Ph&#339;be, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>-<a href='#Page_228'>228</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Cecil Dreeme</i>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a><br />
+<br />
+Century Club, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Champion of Freedom, The</i>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a><br />
+<br />
+Champlin, John Denison, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br />
+<br />
+Cheever, George B, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Chelsea Square, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br />
+<br />
+Chelsea Village, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br />
+<br />
+Child, Lydia M., <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Chimmie Fadden</i>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Church Farm, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+Church in the Fort, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a><br />
+<br />
+Church of the Holy Communion, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>City Editor's Conscience, A</i>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+City Hall, First, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br />
+<br />
+City Hall in Wall Street, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+City Hall Park, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br />
+<br />
+City Hall (Present), <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+City Hotel, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><br />
+<br />
+City Plan Commission, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br />
+<br />
+Clapp, Henry, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a><br />
+<br />
+Clapp's <i>Almanac</i>, John, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>-<a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Clara Howard</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">-258-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Clari, the Maid of Milan</i>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a><br />
+<br />
+Clark, Lewis Gaylord, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>-<a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Clark, Willis Gaylord, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br />
+<br />
+Clarke, McDonald, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>-<a href='#Page_144'>144</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Clermont, The</i>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+Clinton Hall, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Cobbett, William, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br />
+<br />
+Colden, Cadwallader, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+Collect Pond, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a><br />
+<br />
+Columbia College, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br />
+<br />
+Columbia University, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Columbiad</i>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Commentaries on American Law</i>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Commercial Advertiser</i>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Common Sense</i>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a><br />
+<br />
+Common, The, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Complaint of New Netherland, The</i>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Confident To-morrow, A</i>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Conquest of Grenada</i>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+Contoit's Garden, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Cooke, George Frederick, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br />
+<br />
+Cooper, James Fenimore, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>-<a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+Cooper, Susan Fenimore, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a><br />
+<br />
+Cornbury, Lord, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br />
+<br />
+Corporation Library, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Corsair, The</i>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a><br />
+<br />
+Cosby, Governor, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+Cozzens, Frederick S., <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Crane, Stephen, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Criterion, The</i>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a><br />
+<br />
+"Croaker Papers," <a href="#Page_119">119</a><br />
+<br />
+Croegers, Tryntie, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Cromwell</i>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Culprit Fay, The</i>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a><br />
+<br />
+Curtis, George William, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>D</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Dana, Charles A., <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Dana, Richard Henry, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Da Ponte, Lorenzo, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a><br />
+<br />
+Davis, Richard Harding, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Deacon Giles's Distillery</i>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">-259-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Dearman, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Death of the Flowers</i>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Debtors' Prison, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+DeKay, Charles, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a><br />
+<br />
+De Lancey, Étienne, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br />
+<br />
+Dennie, Joseph, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br />
+<br />
+De Sille, Anna, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br />
+<br />
+De Sille, Nicasius, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>-<a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Deukalion</i>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br />
+<br />
+Dewey, Orville, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Diamond Lens, The</i>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Dictionary of Americanisms</i>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan</i>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Don Giovanni</i>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a><br />
+<br />
+Downing, Major Jack, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a><br />
+<br />
+Drake, Joseph Rodman, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>-<a href='#Page_124'>124</a><br />
+<br />
+Draper, Dr. John W., <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a><br />
+<br />
+Du Chaillu, Paul, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br />
+<br />
+Duke's Farm, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Dunlap, William, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Dutchman's Fireside, The</i>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+Duyckinck, Evert A., <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+Duyckinck, George, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+Dyde's, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>E</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+East River Park, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Eben Holden</i>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Edgar Huntley</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br />
+<br />
+Elgin Botanical Garden, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Elixir of Moonshine</i>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a><br />
+<br />
+Embury, Emma C., <a href='#Page_144'>144</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Encyclopædia of American Literature</i>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+English, Thomas Dunn, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Eureka</i>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Evening Mirror</i>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-<a href='#Page_159'>159</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Evening Post</i>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br />
+<br />
+Exchange Street, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>F</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Fairlie, Mary, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Fall of the House of Usher</i>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">-260-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Fanny</i>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Fashion and Famine</i>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br />
+<br />
+Fawcett, Edgar, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><br />
+<br />
+Fay, Theodore S., <a href='#Page_154'>154</a><br />
+<br />
+Federal Hall, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Federalist</i>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a><br />
+<br />
+Fire of 1776, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br />
+<br />
+First almanac printed, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>-<a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+First City Hall, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br />
+<br />
+First free school, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+First library, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+First museum, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+First newspaper, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+First newspaper row, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+First night watch, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+First poet of New Amsterdam, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>-<a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+First Poorhouse, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br />
+<br />
+First printing press, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br />
+<br />
+First street lighting, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+First Tammany Hall, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br />
+<br />
+First telegraphic message, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br />
+<br />
+Fitzroy, Lord Augustus, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Footnotes</i>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+Fordham, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>-<a href='#Page_166'>166</a><br />
+<br />
+Ford, James L., <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+Ford, Paul Leicester, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+Forester, Frank, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Forest Life</i>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a><br />
+<br />
+Forrest-Macready Riots, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Francis, Dr. J.W., <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Frankfort Street, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>French Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century</i>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>French Traits</i>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Freneau, Philip, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>-<a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br />
+<br />
+Friendly Club, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a><br />
+<br />
+Fuller, Margaret, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>G</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Gaine, Hugh, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>-<a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Gazetteer</i>, Rivington's, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">-261-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+General Theological Seminary, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Gentleman's Magazine, The</i>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br />
+<br />
+Gilder, Jeannette L., <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Gilder, Richard Watson, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Give Me the Old</i>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Glasgow, Ellen, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Gleanings in Europe</i>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Glimpses of Home Life</i>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Godey's Lady's Book</i>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br />
+<br />
+Godwin, Parke, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br />
+<br />
+Golden Hill, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br />
+<br />
+Golden Hill Inn, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br />
+<br />
+Goodrich, Samuel G., <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+Gowans, William, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a><br />
+<br />
+Gracie's house, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Graham's Magazine</i>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Grayslaer</i>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br />
+<br />
+Greeley, Horace, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Greenwich Village, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>-<a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a><br />
+<br />
+Griswold, Rufus W., <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+Grove Street, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>H</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Hackett, James H., <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+Halleck, Fitz-Greene, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>-<a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a><br />
+<br />
+Hall of Records, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Halpine, Charles Graham, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a><br />
+<br />
+Hamilton, Alexander, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a><br />
+<br />
+Hamilton Grange, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Handbook of Universal Literature</i>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a><br />
+<br />
+Hanover Square, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>-<a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br />
+<br />
+Harland, Henry, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a><br />
+<br />
+Harlem, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a><br />
+<br />
+Harrison, Mrs. Burton, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br />
+<br />
+"Harry Franco," <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br />
+<br />
+Haven, Alice, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a><br />
+<br />
+Hell Gate, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+Herbert, Henry W., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><br />
+<br />
+Hildreth, Richard, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a><br />
+<br />
+Hillhouse, James A., <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>History of Intellectual Development in Europe</i>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">-262-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>History of New York</i>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>History of the City of New York</i>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>History of the Five Nations</i>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>History, Rise, and Progress of the Arts of Design in the United States</i>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Hobomok</i>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a><br />
+<br />
+Hodgkinson, Thomas Hawkins, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br />
+<br />
+Hoffman, Charles Fenno, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>-<a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Hoffman, Josiah Ogden, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br />
+<br />
+Hoffman, Matilda, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br />
+<br />
+Holland, Dr. Josiah Gilbert, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Home Journal</i>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Home, Sweet Home</i>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Homeward Bound</i>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><br />
+<br />
+Hone, Philip, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br />
+<br />
+Hoogh Street, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Horse and Horsemanship in North America, The</i>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Horseshoe Robinson</i>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a><br />
+<br />
+Hosack, Dr. David, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>House of Night, The</i>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br />
+<br />
+Houses of New Amsterdam, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br />
+<br />
+Howe, Julia Ward, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a><br />
+<br />
+Howells, William Dean, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>How the Other Half Lives</i>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a><br />
+<br />
+Hudson Park, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>-<a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Huguenot Church, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Hunter, Governor Robert, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>-<a href='#Page_38'>38</a><br />
+<br />
+Hutton, Lawrence, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>I</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Idle Man, The</i>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Idlewild, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Imp of the Perverse, The</i>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a><br />
+<br />
+Independent Columbian Hotel, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, Ebenezer, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, John T., <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, Peter, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br />
+<br />
+Irvington, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, Washington, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-<a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>-<a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, Washington, birthplace of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, William, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>-<a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">-263-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Italian Opera House, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ivar the Viking</i>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>I Would Not Live Alway</i>, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>J</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+James, Henry, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Jane Talbot</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br />
+<br />
+Jans Farm, Annetje, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Jersey</i>, The prison ship, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>John Brent</i>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>John Bull in America</i>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+John Street Theatre, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br />
+<br />
+Jordan, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Judgment, The</i>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><br />
+<br />
+Jumel, Madame, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br />
+<br />
+Jumel Mansion, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>K</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Kean, Edmund, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a><br />
+<br />
+Kemble, Gouverneur, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+Kennedy, John P., <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a><br />
+<br />
+Kent, James, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+Kidd, Captain William, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br />
+<br />
+Kilmaster's School, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br />
+<br />
+Kimball, Richard, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>King's Bell</i>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a><br />
+<br />
+King's College, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+King's Farm, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Kinsmen, The, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Kip, Hendrick, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br />
+<br />
+Kirkland, Caroline M., <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a><br />
+<br />
+Kissing Bridge, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><br />
+<br />
+Knickerbocker Days, Close of the, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>-<a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Knickerbocker History of New York</i>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Knickerbocker</i> Magazine, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a><br />
+<br />
+Knight, Madame Sarah, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>-<a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Koningsmarke</i>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Kubleh</i>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">-264-</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><b>L</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Lafayette Theatre, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Lamb, Martha J., <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+La Montagne, Dr., <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Land of the Midnight Sun, The</i>, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Last of the Mohicans, The</i>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Lathrop, George Parsons, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+Lathrop, Rose Hawthorne, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+Lawson, James, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br />
+<br />
+"Lay Preacher, The," <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Legend of Sleepy Hollow</i>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br />
+<br />
+Leggett, William, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br />
+<br />
+Leisler, Jacob, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Letters from under a Bridge</i>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a><br />
+<br />
+Lewis, Estella, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Liberty Bell, The</i>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life and Voyages of Columbus</i>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Horace Greeley</i>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Humboldt</i>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Joseph Brant, The</i>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Mahomet</i>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Red Jacket, The</i>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Life of Washington</i>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Lion of the West, The</i>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Literary Gazette</i>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Literary Magazine and American Register, The</i>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Literary World, The</i>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Literati of New York, The</i>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br />
+<br />
+London Terrace, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><br />
+<br />
+Longfellow, Henry W., <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+Longworth, David, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br />
+<br />
+Loockermans, Govert, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+Ludlow, Fitz-Hugh, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a><br />
+<br />
+Luska, Sidney, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a><br />
+<br />
+Lynch, Anne C., <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>-<a href='#Page_204'>204</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>M</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Mabie, Hamilton W., <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Mad Poet, The, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>-<a href='#Page_144'>144</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Magazine of American History</i>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">-265-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Mahan, Captain A.T., <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br />
+<br />
+"Major Jack Downing," <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Marco Bozzaris</i>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Martling's Tavern, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Mary Derwent</i>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br />
+<br />
+Masonic Hall, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Matthews, Brander, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+McLelland, Isaac, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Melodies and Madrigals</i>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a><br />
+<br />
+Melville, Herman, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>-<a href='#Page_226'>226</a><br />
+<br />
+Mercantile Library, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Messinger, Robert H., <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Middle Dutch Church, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Mild Barbarian, A</i>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Miller, John, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Minerva, The</i>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br />
+<br />
+Minniesland, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Mirror, The</i>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a><br />
+<br />
+Mitchell, John A., <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a><br />
+<br />
+Mitchill, Dr. Samuel, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Moore, Bishop Benjamin, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br />
+<br />
+Moore, Clement C., <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a><br />
+<br />
+Moreau, Jean Victor, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Morgensons, The</i>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Morning Chronicle</i>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+Morris, George P., <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+Morris House, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br />
+<br />
+Morse, Samuel F.B., <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br />
+<br />
+Muhlenberg, Dr. William Augustus, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a><br />
+<br />
+Murray Hill, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br />
+<br />
+Murray, Lindley, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br />
+<br />
+Murray, Mrs., <a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>My Faith Looks up to Thee</i>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>N</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym</i>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>National Anti-Slavery Standard</i>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>National Gazette</i>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Nearer My Home</i>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a><br />
+<br />
+New Amsterdam, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-<a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New England Magazine</i>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">-266-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>New Gospel of Peace, The</i>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New Mirror</i>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br />
+<br />
+Newspaper, First, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+Newspaper Row, The first, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+New York before the Civil War, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>-<a href='#Page_212'>212</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Gazette</i>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Gazetteer</i>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+New York in 1830, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>-<a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Journal</i>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Mercury</i>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Mirror</i>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Quarterly Review</i>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>New York Review and Athenæum</i>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Niblo's Garden, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+Night watch, The first, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+Noah, Mordecai M., <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Nothing to Wear</i>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Nozze di Figaro</i>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>O</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+O'Brien, Fitz-James, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a><br />
+<br />
+Odellville, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Old Oaken Bucket, The</i>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Old Sexton, The</i>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+"Old Tom's," <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Oliver Goldsmith</i>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br />
+<br />
+O'Reilly, Miles, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ormond</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br />
+<br />
+Osgood, Frances Sargent, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Our Country</i>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Our New World</i>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Outlook, The</i>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>P</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Paine, Thomas, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>-<a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br />
+<br />
+Paine, Thomas, Grave of, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br />
+<br />
+Paine, Thomas, House of, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br />
+<br />
+Palmer, Ray, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a><br />
+<br />
+Park Row, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br />
+<br />
+Park Theatre, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">-267-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Parton, James, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a><br />
+<br />
+Paulding, James Kirke, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>-<a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Paul Felton</i>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Payne, John Howard, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>-<a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Penelope's Experiences</i>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+Percival, James G., <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+"Peter Parley," <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br />
+<br />
+Petticoat Lane, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a><br />
+<br />
+Pfaff's, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>-<a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Philosophy of Composition</i>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Picture of New York</i>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Pilot, The</i>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><br />
+<br />
+Pine Street, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Pioneers, The</i>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><br />
+<br />
+Poe, Edgar Allan, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>-<a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>-<a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+Poe, Virginia, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Poems of the Orient</i>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br />
+<br />
+Poet, First, of New Netherland, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>-<a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Poets and Poetry of America</i>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+Poorhouse, First, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Portfolio, The</i>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Powhatan</i>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Prairie, The</i>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Praise of New Netherland, The</i>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Precaution</i>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Prose Writers of America</i>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Putnam's Magazine</i>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>Q</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Queen's Farm, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>R</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Raven, The</i>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Red Badge of Courage, The</i>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Red Rover, The</i>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Renwick, Jane, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+Renwick, Professor James, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Revolution, New York during the, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>-<a href='#Page_56'>56</a><br />
+<br />
+Reynold's Ale House, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>-<a href='#Page_119'>119</a><br />
+<br />
+Richmond Hill, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br />
+<br />
+Riis, Jacob A., <a href='#Page_236'>236</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">-268-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Ripley, George, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Rip Van Winkle</i>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+Rivington, James, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a><br />
+<br />
+Robinson, Edward, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Romance of Old New York, A</i>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>S</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+St. George's Chapel, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a><br />
+<br />
+St. John's Burying-Ground, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+St. John's Park, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>St. Leger</i>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Luke's Hospital, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Mark's Church, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Patrick's Church, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Paul's Chapel, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Salmagundi</i>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Salmagundi's</i> Cockloft Hall, <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br />
+<br />
+Saltus, Edgar, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Sands, Robert C, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Saturday Press</i>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Schurz, Carl, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+Scudder's Museum, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+Second City Hall, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+Selyns, Henricus, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>-<a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br />
+<br />
+Shakespeare Tavern, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br />
+<br />
+"Sign of the Bible and Crown," <a href="#Page_58">58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sinless Child, The</i>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sketches in Switzerland</i>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Rev. Eli, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Dr. Elihu Hubbard, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>-<a href='#Page_79'>79</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Elizabeth Oakes, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Seba, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, William, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a><br />
+<br />
+Society Library, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+Society of American Artists, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Southern Literary Messenger</i>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sparkling and Bright</i>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sparrowgrass Papers</i>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Spy, The</i>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Stadt Huys, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br />
+<br />
+Stedman, Edmund C., <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">-269-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Steendam, Jacob, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>-<a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+Stephens, Ann S., <a href='#Page_202'>202</a><br />
+<br />
+Stephens, John L., <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>-<a href='#Page_177'>177</a><br />
+<br />
+Stevenson, Robert Louis, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+Stoddard, Richard Henry, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>-<a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>-<a href='#Page_242'>242</a><br />
+<br />
+Stoddard, Mrs. Richard Henry, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a><br />
+<br />
+Stone Street, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br />
+<br />
+Stone, William L., <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Story of a New York House, The</i>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a><br />
+<br />
+Streets first lighted, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+Strong, Dr. Josiah, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Stuyvesant, Judith, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a><br />
+<br />
+Stuyvesant, Peter, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Stylus, The</i>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sunday Times and Messenger</i>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br />
+<br />
+Sunnyside, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Swallow Barn</i>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sweet Bells Out of Tune</i>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>T</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite</i>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tales of a City Room</i>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tales of a Country Schoolmaster</i>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tales of the Good Woman</i>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Talisman</i> Magazine, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Talisman, The</i>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Tammany Hall, First, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br />
+<br />
+Taylor, Bayard, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>-<a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a><br />
+<br />
+Temple, Charlotte, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br />
+<br />
+Temple Street, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br />
+<br />
+Thames Street, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Thistle Finch, The</i>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+Thomson, Mortimer, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a><br />
+<br />
+Tienhoven's Street, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tom Thornton</i>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Town and Country</i>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+Townsend, Edward W., <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Trinity Church, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Tuckerman, Henry T., <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Typee</i>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">-270-</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><b>U</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<i>Ulalume</i>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>United States and England</i>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Universe, The</i>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>V</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Van Brugh Street, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+Van Cortlandt, Oloff, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Vanderlyn</i>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br />
+<br />
+Van Dyke, Henry, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Vanity Fair</i>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Van Tassel house, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br />
+<br />
+Vauxhall, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+Verplanck, Gulian C., <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Views Afoot</i>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Vignettes of Manhattan</i>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Visit of St. Nicholas</i>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Voyages of the Companions of Columbus</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>W</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Wallace, William Ross, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Wall Street, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br />
+<br />
+Wall, The city, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br />
+<br />
+Ward, Artemus, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><br />
+<br />
+Washington, George, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a><br />
+<br />
+Washington Hall, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Water Witch, The</i>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Webster, Noah, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Weekly Post-Boy</i>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Westward Ho!</i>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitehall, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br />
+<br />
+White, Richard Grant, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitman, Walt, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Wieland</i>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br />
+<br />
+Wiggin, Kate Douglas, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Wild Scenes in Forest and Prairie</i>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br />
+<br />
+Wiley, the publisher, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a><br />
+<br />
+Williams, Jesse Lynch, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+William Street, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">-271-</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Willis, Nathaniel P., <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>-<a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br />
+<br />
+Windust's, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Winter in the West, A</i>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br />
+<br />
+Winter, William, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Winthrop, Theodore, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Wolfert's Roost</i>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Woman of Honor, The</i>, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Woodman, Spare that Tree</i>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a><br />
+<br />
+Woodworth, Samuel, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>Y</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Yorkville, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a><br />
+<br />
+"Young American Roscius," <a href="#Page_73">73</a></p>
+
+<h3><b>Z</b></h3>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+Zenger, Peter, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a><br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="bbox2">
+<h2><i>BELLES-LETTRES</i></h2>
+
+<hr class="long" />
+
+<div class="blockquot2">
+<p class="center"><span class="mlg">Browning, Poet and Man</span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot3">
+<p class="noindent">A Survey. By <span class="smcap">Elisabeth Luther Cary</span>, author of "The Rossettis,"
+"William Morris," etc.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="hang"><i>8<span class="super">o</span>. With 25 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang"><i>LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone. $2.50.</i></p>
+
+<p>"It is written with taste and judgment.... The book is exactly what it
+ought to be, and will lead many to an appreciation of Browning who
+have hitherto looked at the bulk of his writings with disgust.... It
+is beautifully illustrated, and the paper and typography are superb.
+It is an edition that every admirer of Browning should possess, being
+worthy in every way of the poet."&mdash;<i>Chicago Evening Post.</i></p>
+
+
+<table style="padding-bottom: 1em; line-height: 1.2em" border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" summary="tennyson">
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><span class="mlg">Tennyson,</span></td>
+<td class="center"><span class="lg">His Homes, his Friends,<br />
+and his Work.</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="blockquot3">
+<p class="noindent">By <span class="smcap">Elisabeth Luther Cary</span>, author of "The Rossettis," "William Morris,"
+etc.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="hang"><i>8<span class="super">o</span>. With 18 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang"><i>LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone, $2.50.</i></p>
+
+<p>"The multitude of admirers of Tennyson in the United States will mark
+this beautiful volume as very satisfactory. The text is clear, terse,
+and intelligent, and the matter admirably arranged, while the
+mechanical work is faultless, with art work especially marked for
+excellence."&mdash;<i>Chicago Inter-Ocean.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="long" />
+
+<p class="center"><span class="gesplg"><i>G.P. PUTNAM&#8217;S SONS</i></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>New York</i> <span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>London</i></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<div class="bbox2">
+<h2><i>BELLES-LETTRES</i></h2>
+
+<hr class="long" />
+
+<div class="blockquot2">
+<table style="line-height: 1.2em" border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" summary="morris">
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><span class="mlg">William Morris,</span></td>
+<td class="center"><span class="lg">Poet, Craftsman<br />
+Socialist</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="blockquot3">
+<p class="noindent">By <span class="smcap">Elisabeth Luther Cary</span>, author of "The Rossettis," "Robert
+Browning," "Tennyson," etc.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="hang"><i>8<span class="super">o</span>. Fully illustrated, uniform with "The Rossettis," "Browning,"
+etc. Net, $3.50. By mail, $3.75.</i></p>
+
+<p>William Morris, of active, varied, and interesting life, has been the
+subject of several biographies, written from different points of view.
+Nevertheless, there is need for an account that gathers together the
+chief facts of the life in a condensed form, and connects them with
+comment and criticism of an informing character. Miss Cary has
+emphasized the essential unity of purpose underlying the numerous and
+diverse pursuits in which Morris was engaged, and has sought to
+distinguish the peculiar and enduring qualities by which his genius
+was marked.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<table style="padding-top: 1em; line-height: 1.2em" border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" summary="rossetti">
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><span class="mlg">The Rossettis,</span></td>
+<td class="center"><span class="lg">Dante Gabriel<br />
+and Christina</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="blockquot2">
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+
+<p class="hang"><i>With 27 illustrations in photogravure and some text illustrations.
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+
+<p class="hang"><i>LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
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+Sharp, Mr. Watts-Dunton, and Mr. William Rossetti, his brother, but
+never quite so well as by Miss Cary, who, thoroughly conversant with
+all the material which their writings furnish, has turned it to better
+advantage than they were capable of from their personal relation to
+its perplexing subject."&mdash;<i>Mail and Express.</i></p>
+</div>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Literary New York, by Charles Hemstreet
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Literary New York
+       Its Landmarks and Associations
+
+
+Author: Charles Hemstreet
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 29, 2010  [eBook #31814]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Linda Cantoni, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 31814-h.htm or 31814-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h/31814-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+LITERARY NEW YORK
+
+Its Landmarks and Associations
+
+by
+
+CHARLES HEMSTREET
+
+With 65 Illustrations
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+G.P. Putnam's Sons
+New York and London
+The Knickerbocker Press
+1903
+
+Copyright, 1903
+by
+Charles Hemstreet
+
+Published, November, 1903
+
+The Knickerbocker Press, New York
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The "Half-Moon" on the Hudson--1609.
+
+From the painting by L.W. SEAVEY.]
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                  PAGE
+
+      I. WRITERS OF NEW AMSTERDAM                           1
+
+     II. BEFORE THE REVOLUTION                             25
+
+    III. THE POET OF THE REVOLUTION                        45
+
+     IV. IN THE DAYS OF THOMAS PAINE                       67
+
+      V. THE CITY THAT IRVING KNEW                         87
+
+     VI. WITH PAULDING, DRAKE, AND HALLECK                106
+
+    VII. COOPER AND HIS FRIENDS                           125
+
+   VIII. THOSE WHO GATHERED ABOUT POE                     145
+
+     IX. AT THE CLOSE OF THE KNICKERBOCKER DAYS           167
+
+      X. HALF A CENTURY AGO                               189
+
+     XI. TWO FAMOUS MEETING-PLACES                        209
+
+    XII. SOME OF THE WRITERS OF TO-DAY                    230
+
+
+
+
+Full-Page Illustrations
+
+
+                                                         PAGE
+
+THE "HALF MOON" ON THE HUDSON, 1609            _Frontispiece_
+    From the painting by L.W. Seavey.
+
+THE STADT HUYS                                              8
+
+BROAD STREET, 1642                                         30
+
+KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773                                 42
+
+THE DEBTORS' PRISON                                        48
+
+WILLIAM SMITH    }
+PETER STUYVESANT }
+PHILIP FRENEAU   }                                         60
+THOMAS PAINE     }
+JOEL BARLOW      }
+
+THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND
+  SPRUCE STREETS                                           70
+
+MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827             76
+
+JAMES KIRKE PAULDING }
+PHILIP HONE          }
+WASHINGTON IRVING    }                                    100
+JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE  }
+FITZ-GREENE HALLECK  }
+J. FENIMORE COOPER   }
+
+THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831                          136
+
+RICHARD HENRY STODDARD }
+JOHN JAMES AUDUBON     }
+WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT  }                                  150
+BAYARD TAYLOR          }
+EDGAR ALLAN POE        }
+ROBERT FULTON          }
+
+POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM                                  158
+    From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.
+    Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.
+
+THE BATTERY IN 1830                                       164
+    From a drawing by C. Burton.
+
+THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830                                  170
+
+VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET,
+  LOOKING TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800                       182
+
+W.D. HOWELLS        }
+J.G. HOLLAND        }
+RICHARD GRANT WHITE }                                     200
+BRANDER MATTHEWS    }
+WILLIAM WINTER      }
+    From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble;
+    courtesy of W.E. Benjamin.
+
+
+
+
+Illustrations in the Text
+
+
+                                                        PAGE
+
+SEAL OF NEW AMSTERDAM                                      1
+
+EARLY DUTCH HOUSES                                         2
+
+THE WALL AND GATE                                          5
+
+AN OLD FAMILY BIBLE                                        6
+
+STUYVESANT'S "WHITEHALL"                                   8
+
+ALONG THE STRAND                                           9
+
+DE SILLE'S HOUSE                                          14
+
+A WOMAN'S COSTUME, NEW AMSTERDAM                          16
+
+STUYVESANT'S BOUWERIE HOUSE                               20
+
+THE CHURCH IN THE FORT                                    21
+
+CAPTAIN KIDD'S HOUSE                                      23
+
+THE CHURCH CALLED TRINITY                                 34
+
+"THE NEW-YORK GAZETTE"                                    39
+
+THE COLLECT                                               48
+
+THE BRITISH PRISON-SHIP                                   53
+
+THE MIDDLE DUTCH CHURCH                                   55
+
+FRAUNCES' TAVERN                                          62
+
+BROAD STREET AND FEDERAL HALL                             63
+
+RICHMOND HILL                                             64
+
+THE CORNER STONE OF THE PARK THEATRE                      69
+
+THE POST OFFICE, WILLIAM STREET                           78
+
+GOLDEN HILL INN                                           88
+
+ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL, BEEKMAN ST.                          89
+
+THE CITY HOTEL                                           101
+
+THE HOUSE OF ASTOR, WHERE IRVING WROTE "ASTORIA"         102
+
+WHERE IRVING LIVED, 17TH STREET AND IRVING PLACE         104
+
+THE SHAKESPEARE TAVERN                                   120
+
+THE JUMEL MANSION                                        123
+
+WASHINGTON HALL                                          132
+
+ON BLOOMINGDALE ROAD, NEAR 75TH STREET, IN POE'S TIME    147
+
+THE HOUSE IN CARMINE STREET                              149
+
+WHERE POE WROTE "THE RAVEN"                              157
+
+MUSEUM AT THE NORTH END OF THE PARK, 1825                170
+
+NIBLO'S GARDEN                                           171
+
+AUDUBON'S HOME, 156TH STREET AND NORTH RIVER             193
+
+CLEMENT C. MOORE'S HOUSE, CHELSEA                        196
+
+THE UNIVERSITY BUILDING                                  219
+
+THE STUDIO BUILDING IN WEST 10TH STREET                  221
+
+53 EAST 20TH STREET                                      223
+
+10 WEST STREET                                           232
+
+WHERE "HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES" WAS WRITTEN             237
+
+146 MACDOUGAL STREET                                     239
+
+108 WAVERLY PLACE                                        240
+
+RICHARD GRANT WHITE'S HOME                               241
+
+WHERE RICHARD HENRY STODDARD DIED                        243
+
+WHERE THE AUTHORS' CLUB WAS ORGANIZED                    244
+
+HORACE GREELEY'S HOME                                    245
+
+THE BEEKMAN MANSION                                      249
+
+LAWRENCE HUTTON'S HOUSE                                  252
+
+DE KAY'S HOUSE, LONDON TERRACE                           254
+
+
+
+
+Literary New York
+
+
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+Writers of New Amsterdam
+
+
+[Illustration: Seal of New Amsterdam]
+
+There is a fashion nowadays of trimming the fronts of brick houses by
+placing black bricks among the red in such a way as to form odd and
+unique designs. It is an attractive way of doing, for it varies the
+staid simplicity of the solid color. But for all it may seem original
+and new, it is a style that had its beginning long, long ago, even in
+the days when the stern Peter Stuyvesant governed with an iron hand
+over the Dutch colony of fifteen hundred people, the town that was one
+day to be New York, but which in his time was called New Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration: Early Dutch Houses]
+
+It was a tiny town then; picturesque, too, for the houses were low,
+irregular, with sloping roofs and gable ends to the street. They were
+built of wood--that is, all except the church, the Stadt Huys, the
+Governor's house, and some few dwellings of colonists who had brought
+much wealth with them from Holland. These were for the most part of
+stone. It was usual in them all--there were scarcely more than a
+hundred,--whether of wood or stone, to have chimneys outside the
+walls, thus making less the danger of fire, and if any part of the
+house were of brick it was sure to be the chimney. All the brick had
+then to be brought from Holland, so it was an expensive building
+material and but sparingly used.
+
+At this time when Stuyvesant held full sway there were two industrious
+colonists who held the idea that their short-cut to immense wealth lay
+in the way of making bricks at home and supplying them to their fellow
+colonists. So it came about, after long and slow deliberation, that
+the first brickyard was started. To be sure the venturesome
+fortune-hunters soon found that they were not to succeed all at once,
+for, owing to their lack of knowledge, they ruined so many of their
+bricks that the profits of the business were like to be consumed in
+the black-burned material that they threw aside as worthless.
+
+But just at this time an odd thing happened. This was no less than
+the appearance of a colonist who agreed to buy--at a low price to be
+sure, but still to buy--all the black-burned and apparently useless
+brick. The brickmakers wondered very much at this, and without doubt
+thought the man a trifle unsound in his mind, but they agreed, and
+very soon the buyer had built himself a house, which when it was
+completed showed the burnt brick alternating with the red, prettily
+decorating the front and making of it the most attractive dwelling in
+the town. And at this they were filled with admiration and respect.
+All the townspeople went to look at the house, and while looking
+marvelled that Jacob Steendam could have thought out such a useful
+plan, for he was not known as a practical man. Anything but that, for
+was he not a poet? More than this, was he not the only poet in the
+colony? And still more than this, he was the first poet of New
+Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration: The Wall and Gate]
+
+And in other ways, too, this first literary man of the colony was no
+ordinary man. He had come to New Amsterdam in the employ of the owners
+of the colony, the Dutch West India Company, and he worked in the
+Company's warehouse. But he had a mind which fixed itself on things
+above the beaver skins which it was his task to register before they
+were sent across the sea. He was clerk by day, poet by night. It was
+his custom while the townspeople slept, and they were early abed, to
+wander about in the moonlight. He could walk the length and breadth of
+the town with no great exertion, for it merely tipped the triangular
+point of the island of Manhattan, enclosed on two sides by rivers and
+on the land side by a wall of wood and soil which served to keep the
+Indians out--a wall stretching straight across the island quite from
+river to river, following the line that Wall Street was to take later
+when Indians should be no more and when the town itself should have
+burst its bounds. Here then the poet walked through the narrow
+streets--winding ways that had their birth as Indian trails, passed
+their infancy as cow-paths, and had so wound around marshy tracts and
+deviated from their course that as streets they must of necessity be
+irregular and vacillating.
+
+[Illustration: An Old Family Bible]
+
+While this was a time of advancement for the little colony, as you may
+have guessed from the brickmaking venture, yet it was certainly not a
+literary period. The colonists who had left their homes in Holland to
+seek their fortunes in a new world had found that Fortune overseas
+frowned upon them as often as she smiled, and while she had raised the
+hopes of some, the many were struggling for bare existence. There was
+no book-making; indeed there were few books of any sort, and reading
+meant conning over Bibles, prayer-books, psalm-books, and Testaments
+which had been brought across the ocean. These were stoutly bound
+volumes, many of them heirlooms, their pages bearing the marks of
+patient and persistent handling.
+
+[Illustration: Stuyvesant's "Whitehall"]
+
+The poet Steendam dreamed and thought out many a verse as he stood on
+the bridge that spanned the canal leading from the bay to the Sheep
+Pasture,--the canal that was one day to be buried deep beneath Broad
+Street. He must have walked beneath the wall of the weak little fort
+at the water's edge, passed Governor Stuyvesant's new home that was
+called Whitehall, and that was to pass away, leaving its name to the
+road leading to it, which the road was still to bear more than two
+hundred and fifty years later. And perhaps he went on along the strand
+to the Stadt Huys (for it was only a few steps farther along the
+waterside), the stone house that "William the Testy" had built as a
+tavern and that in the first poet's day had become the first City Hall
+of New Amsterdam. And he sometimes stood beside the first graveyard,
+near the plaine that was to become the Bowling Green, and so on to
+the city wall, with its gates locked while the townsmen slept.
+
+[Illustration: THE STADT HUYS.]
+
+[Illustration: Along the Strand]
+
+Though the streets are to-day much changed from those which the poet
+walked alone save for the company of his Muse, you can walk them even
+now, until you come to a thoroughfare noticeable because it is so
+short and winding, tucked away at the edge of the city's business
+section. And if you do walk into Stone Street, you must of necessity
+come to a bend from which both ends of the street curve out of sight,
+while you stand in a kind of huge well, closed in by iron-shuttered
+warehouses. Here in this bend you are standing on what was the garden
+of Jacob Steendam's checker-fronted house. In his day it was Hoogh
+Street, though in a few years it was to take its present name when it
+was the first street to be paved with stone.
+
+In those nightly walks through the quiet streets of the sleeping town,
+the poet Steendam found inspiration for his verses--the first verses
+ever penned in the colony, and called variously _The Praise of New
+Netherland_, _The Complaint of New Amsterdam_, _The Thistle Finch_,
+and others. Although these suggested true affection for the land of
+his adoption, it was the home of his youth and the never-fading
+remembrance of his childhood's days that haunted him and called to
+him. And at last, one day after thirteen years, the sight of a ship
+preparing to sail for Holland so overcame him that almost within the
+hour he had bidden farewell and had sailed with her, leaving to the
+townspeople his memory and his verse.
+
+But by the time of his going there had come forward another poet to
+take his place, by name Nicasius De Sille. There was a vast difference
+between the first poet and the second. Steendam was a poor man, and in
+his verses sought always to touch those who had never grasped the
+skirts of fleeting Fortune. The second was a man of wealth, a kind of
+"society poet." For even in that small circle, in the first
+half-century of its existence, there were marked differences in
+wealth, birth, and reputation, which were to develop with the passing
+years into the distinctions of to-day.
+
+The aristocracy of those times centred about the family of the Dutch
+Governor, Peter Stuyvesant. Mrs. Stuyvesant had been, before her
+marriage, Judith Bayard, the daughter of a Paris divine. Mrs. Bayard,
+the sister of Peter Stuyvesant, had married Mrs. Stuyvesant's brother,
+and when left a widow with three infant sons she followed her brother
+when he became Governor of New Netherland. These two women had lived
+in ease and refinement, and in coming to the colony well knew that
+there they would find a life of comparative hardship. Yet they came
+willingly enough, following husband and brother, and brought with them
+an atmosphere of intellectual and social culture that left its impress
+for all time. By the time Steendam returned to his boyhood home, a few
+ambitious folk had gathered themselves about the Stuyvesants. There
+was Oloff Van Cortlandt, a thriving merchant and one of the richest
+men in New Netherland; there were Hendrick Kip and his three sons;
+there were Dr. La Montagne and his daughters, and Govert Loockermans,
+and others.
+
+It was to this well-to-do-set that Nicasius De Sille belonged, and
+after the going of Steendam he became the only literary man in the
+colony. He also had come over in the service of the Dutch West India
+Company, but in a far different capacity from Steendam. For he came,
+when Stuyvesant's rule had run eight years of its course, as a
+Councillor in the provincial government, and his life was thenceforth
+closely connected with that of the Governor. He came, heralded as a
+statesman, as a lawyer, as a man of deep learning, as a man of wealth.
+But with not one word of his being a poet--yet only by reason of his
+poems has his name lived. He built for himself a house beside the
+little canal where Steendam walked in the night, just where now
+Exchange Street touches Broad, and here, with his two motherless
+daughters and one son, he lived more luxuriously than had yet been
+seen. For he had brought with him from Holland heavy plate of rich
+design, more plate than was in all the town beside; solid, carved
+furniture and rare hangings; and on winter nights his guests sat down
+to a table laden with blue and white china ornamented with strange
+Chinese pictures, and drank their tea, alternately biting lumps of
+sugar, from the tiniest china cups, and altogether were entertained
+with all the pomp and circumstance he had known in The Hague. At these
+evening entertainments De Sille read his poems in such perfect style
+as to win much applause, and doubtless it was the reading of these, as
+well as his courtly manner and great wealth, that very soon won for
+him the love of fair Tryntie Croegers.
+
+[Illustration: De Sille's House]
+
+And then one day there was a grand gathering in the stone church
+inside the fort--on the wedding-day of Nicasius De Sille and Mistress
+Tryntie Croegers. Into the church went the friends: women, some with
+petticoats of red cloth, some with skirts of blue or purple silk set
+off with rare lace, all with silken hoods over much befrizzled hair,
+and their fingers covered with glittering rings, and with great
+lockets of gold on their bosoms. Each had a Bible fastened to her
+girdle by links of gold--not the plain, strongly bound Bibles used by
+Jacob Steendam and his friends, but elaborately wrought in silver,
+with golden clasps. The men were just as gaily dressed as the women,
+for they wore long coats adorned with shining buttons and pockets
+trimmed with lace, and colored waistcoats, knee-breeches of velvet,
+silk stockings, and low shoes set off by silver buckles. Outside the
+fort among the townspeople of lower degree it was, too, quite a
+holiday. Men with coarse frocks and leather aprons, women in homespun
+gowns, turbaned negresses, swarthy negro slaves, dusky Indians,--all
+made merry in their several ways as though glad of an excuse. And the
+motley throng outside the fort and the elegant gathering within all
+made way for the wrinkled little bell-ringer, who carried the cushions
+from the Stadt Huys for the burgomasters and the schepens, who
+insisted on every bit of their dignity, come what would, on this day
+or on any other. So, with those inside the church looking on in
+silence and the people outside keeping up an incessant din and
+clatter, the poet of the rich was married to Tryntie Croegers by the
+good Dominie Megapolensis.
+
+[Illustration: A Woman's Costume
+
+New Amsterdam]
+
+But for all such a fair starting off this married life had an untimely
+ending. Though Nicasius De Sille might win a wife by his poetry, it
+seemed that he could not hold one. There were no poetic readings in
+the house by the canal after the marriage, and the literature of the
+town which had started out so bravely fell into a decline with the
+languishing of De Sille's connubial bliss. Before the third year had
+gone by, a commission of their friends was trying to tell the pair how
+happy their lives should have been. But all the reasoning had no
+effect, and the friends were forced to give it up and submit to a
+decision, in very quaint wording, the tenor of which was that it was
+acknowledged that there was no love between the two, and that the only
+recommendation that could be made was that the property should be
+divided equally and they go their several ways,--which they did. But
+the earlier readings of poetry had sown the seed of still another
+marriage. For at those readings, Anna, the youngest daughter of the
+poet, had sat by her father's side, and young Hendrick Kip had sat by
+his father's side, and about the time the commission of friends was
+announcing its failure to patch up matters, Anna De Sille and Hendrick
+Kip, all undismayed by the bad example, had decided to sit side by
+side through the remainder of their lives.
+
+[Illustration: Stuyvesant's Bouwerie House]
+
+All this time De Sille was growing more and more rich, when there
+came a great change. Of a sudden one day the English ship sailed into
+the bay, and the English soldiers took possession of the town, and the
+rule of the Dutch in New Amsterdam had passed, and the English became
+governors of their province of New York. Then Stuyvesant went to live
+in a little settlement he had built up and called Bouwerie Village,
+which was far out on the Bouwerie Road, and Nicasius De Sille settled
+down as a merchant, and little more was heard of him as a poet.
+
+It was a simple enough thing to rename the town and call it after the
+brother of an English king, but that made but little change in the
+customs of the people. For many a long year it was to remain the
+quaint, slow-going town it had been. Certainly no English brain or
+hand added to the literature of this time, and the only bit of writing
+which survives is the work of a Dutch minister.
+
+In the eighteenth year after the coming of the English, when it had
+come to be 1682, Dominie Henricus Selyns came to New York from
+Holland. He had lived four years in the town when it was New
+Amsterdam, and we have his own words for it that he found the
+settlement scarcely altered a whit from the time he left. And now he
+took charge of the little church in the fort, the same church where
+Nicasius De Sille was married with such pomp. His congregation was
+made up of much the same kind of people as of old, and perhaps it was
+just as well, since he still preached in the Dutch language. The poems
+he wrote, all in the Dutch language, were read as piously as were the
+Bibles, and were quite at one with them in religious feeling. No one
+then imagined that a day would come when a critic might hint that the
+good Dominie's contributions to the early literature of New York might
+be just a shade gloomy and despairing in their views of the
+fearfulness of the after-life.
+
+[Illustration: The Church in the Fort]
+
+For quite twenty years the good Dominie lived to aid in fostering the
+infant literature of infant New York, living a life as quiet and as
+regular as any Dutch colonist could have demanded. On a Sunday morning
+he preached in the church in the fort the long, heavy sermons that his
+people loved. In the afternoon he rode away on the highway that led
+into the country, past the Collect Pond, over the Kissing Bridge at
+the Fresh Water, on to the stretch that was to grow into the Bowery,
+through the forest till he came to the few clustering houses of the
+Bouwerie Village, where Stuyvesant had spent his old age. In the
+village church he preached of an afternoon,--the church which
+Stuyvesant had built and beside which he was buried,--the church which
+was to stand another hundred years and which was then to give way to a
+house of worship to be called St. Mark's, which, in turn, two
+centuries and more after Stuyvesant's day, was still to be found
+standing in the core of a great metropolis.
+
+[Illustration: Capt. Kidd's House]
+
+Dominie Selyns lived long enough to see many changes. He lived to see
+a Dutch prince become England's king; he lived to see New York rent
+asunder through the overzealousness of one Jacob Leisler, who feared
+lest the town should not recognize a king of Dutch blood; he lived to
+see Lord Bellomont made Governor and riding through the streets in a
+coach the gorgeousness of which astounded all; he lived to see
+Captain William Kidd sail out of the harbor in the ship _Adventure
+Galley_, with never a thought that a few years more would see him
+executed as a pirate. And when Dominie Selyns died, bequeathing his
+poems to swell the scanty literature of his times, the era of the
+Dutch had well-nigh ended.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+Before the Revolution
+
+
+When William Bradford came to New York, in 1693, the town had grown so
+large that it must needs have a night-watch--four men who each carried
+a lantern, and who, strolling through the quiet streets, proclaimed at
+the start of each hour that the weather was fair, or that the weather
+was foul, and told beside that all was as well as it should be in
+those nightly hours. More than this, the town went a step farther
+towards the making of a metropolis, and lit the streets by night
+(whether for the benefit of the night-watch or for some other the
+records say not), by placing on a pole projecting from each seventh
+house a lantern with a candle in it.
+
+Pilgrims who year after year seek out the shrines that are connected
+in one way or another with the literature of the city have worn a path
+plain to be seen along the stone pavement about Trinity Church, a path
+leading straight to a bit of greensward where, beside a gravel walk,
+is the tomb of William Bradford. Although Bradford made slight
+pretence of being a man of letters, he is remembered as one who loved
+to foster literature. And, there being little enough left to recall
+the writings of the seventeenth century, this tombstone has its many
+visitors. The pilgrims who find their way to it have but half
+completed their journey. If they leave the churchyard and stray on,
+not going by way of crowded Wall Street, which would be the direct
+course, but taking one of the more winding and narrow streets to the
+south, they will come after a time to a thoroughfare where the
+structure of the Elevated Road forms a bridge to convey heavy trains
+that hurry past, stirring the air with constant vibration. In this
+street, dark even when the sun shines brightest, is another reminder
+of William Bradford,--a tablet in form, but quite as much a tombstone
+as the other; for its brazen letters tell in true epitaph how he lived
+here two hundred years gone by, and how here on this spot he set up
+the first printing-press in the colony, and that here he did the
+public printing, as well as such books and psalms, tracts and
+almanacs, and such like things as he had time for. These were all
+queer, rough-lettered, black-lined pamphlets, and none was more quaint
+than John Clapp's _Almanac_, the first which came from the press and
+the first written in the city.
+
+John Clapp had time without end to write this almanac, and yet no one
+ever knew just when he did it. He was the keeper of the inn in the
+Bouwerie Village, and, having more idle moments than busy ones, he
+spent most of his time on the broad stoop of the inn, pipe in mouth,
+looking first at the house where Peter Stuyvesant had lived, then at
+the dusty road leading away up country towards the King's Bridge in
+one direction, and down country towards the town. But write it he did,
+and Bradford printed it, and John Clapp was shrewd enough to advertise
+himself well by writing in his Table of Contents concerning his
+tavern:
+
+     It is two miles from the city, and is generally the baiting
+     place where gentlemen take leave of their friends, and where
+     a parting glass or two of generous wine
+
+          If well applied makes dull horses feel
+          One spur in the head is worth two in the heel.
+
+Again, in a Chronological Table, under the June date, he made the
+interesting announcement:
+
+     The 24th of this month is celebrated the feast of St. John
+     the Baptist, in commemoration of which (and to keep up a
+     happy union and lasting friendship by the sweet harmony of
+     good society) a feast is held by the _Johns_ of this city,
+     at John Clapp's in the Bouwerie, where any gentleman whose
+     name is John may find a hearty welcome to join in concert
+     with his namesakes.
+
+In response to this there came such a large gathering as would make it
+seem that all the townsmen had been baptized by one name.
+
+It was by an odd slip that the only important book planned and partly
+written in these last years of the seventeenth century was not printed
+by Bradford. More than once had the Episcopal minister, the Rev. John
+Miller, talked with this first printer of his plan for a history of
+the colony which he was then writing. This would have been carried
+out, beyond all doubt, if the clergyman had not just then decided to
+go to England to settle some troublesome Church matters, taking his
+history with him. As ill-fortune would have it, the ship in which he
+sailed was captured by the French,--France then being at war with
+England,--and rather than have the slightest bit of information
+conveyed to the enemy through his means, the clergyman tossed the
+precious pages into the sea. In the course of time, released by the
+French, he reached England, and there rewrote the history from memory,
+and drew for it a quaint map of the town as he had known it. Having
+done so much he died, leaving his work to lie for more than a century
+and a quarter unpublished, until, in 1843, a London bookseller put it
+into print. The original, being sold again passed through several
+hands until it finally found a resting-place in the British Museum,
+where it is now preserved.
+
+[Illustration: BROAD STREET, 1642.]
+
+The early days of the eighteenth century saw the fitting out of the
+first library to which the townsmen had general access--a library that
+in the next fifty years was to change from the private property of the
+Rev. John Sharpe into the Corporation Library, and later be chartered
+as the Society Library, under which title it was to live to grow
+richer and richer in literary treasures until it came to be called the
+oldest library in America in the days when the city had grown far
+beyond any bounds then thought of. In the first days of its existence,
+the library occupied tiny quarters, quite large enough for all the
+books it contained, in a room in the City Hall. This was not in the
+old Stadt Huys of the Dutch by the waterside, for that was gone now,
+but in a pretentious building facing the "broad street" that had been
+made by the filling up of the Heere Graft of old. Other buildings
+were set up at this same time. There was the new French Huguenot
+church which had been in Petticoat Lane and was now rebuilt in the
+newly laid-out street below the Maiden's Lane, called Pine Street from
+the pine-trees there. Then there was the church called Trinity. Though
+it, too, was a new church, the ground on which it stood had a history
+that harked back to the very earliest Dutch times. For it was upon the
+lower edge of the Annetje Jans Farm, the strip of land above the city
+to the west which had been given to the husband of Annetje Jans far
+back in the year 1635; that had been linked with another farm by
+Governor Lovelace to make the Duke's Farm; and had become the King's
+Farm when the duke after whom it was named became a king. And then, it
+having become the Queen's Farm (and Queen Anne graciously presenting
+it in the year 1703 to Trinity Church for all time), it took the last
+name that it was to have and became the Church Farm--a name that was
+to cling to it after every vestige of country green had disappeared
+from its surface, and when houses had been set upon it as thick as the
+stalks of grain that once ripened upon its rolling bosom.
+
+[Illustration: "The Church called Trinity"]
+
+The library in the City Hall was yet quite a new thing, the church
+called Trinity had stood on the historic ground but a few years, the
+French church was barely completed, and the town was so sprightly and
+full of activity that 't is small wonder Madame Sarah Knight, coming
+at such a time, should find much to wonder at and to write about. Her
+coming marks another advance in literary New York, for Madame Knight
+was a bookish woman come from far-off Boston town, and was a teacher
+well versed in the "art of composition." She found all quite different
+as compared with her own Massachusetts, where her father had been
+sentenced to stand for two hours in the stocks, his conduct having
+been found "lewd and unseemly" when, on a Sabbath day, after an
+absence of three years, he had kissed his wife when she met him at his
+own door-step! No wonder Madame Knight thought New York society quite
+gay and reckless, for at this time Lord Cornbury governed, and he had
+an odd fancy for wearing women's clothing indoors for his own
+delectation and to the amusement of the citizens as he walked the
+walls of the fort. Though Madame Knight met many persons of quality
+and witnessed many interesting scenes, had her visit in the city been
+extended, say for half a dozen years, until the coming of Governor
+Robert Hunter, she would have met a man truly in full accord with her
+ideas and tastes.
+
+Had Governor Hunter's hopes been fulfilled there might have been a far
+different writing of literary history. He came from England in the
+summer of 1710, from the midst of a busy and troublous life, seeing
+before him in imagination quiet and peaceful years with the wife he
+cherished, and a career which should be helped on by his
+correspondence with his English friends, Dean Swift, Richard Steele,
+Joseph Addison, and some others. It would be an ideal life; he had
+planned it well. But the repose he sought he scarce for an hour
+realized. Undreamed-of turmoil kept him in a whirl of unsettledness.
+And though the wife of his heart stood by his side, and he gained
+comfort from knowing that nothing could turn her away, differences
+with the Government at home, which refused to reimburse him for money
+spent; wrangling with the Assembly, which refused money for the
+conduct of affairs in the colony; the uprising of negro slaves; the
+turbulent actions of unfriendly Indians--these things and others left
+him never an hour for the work he had planned. It was a note of
+despair that he sounded when he wrote to Swift across the sea:
+
+     This is the finest air to live upon in the universe, and if
+     our trees and birds could speak and our Assemblymen be
+     silent, the finest conversation also. The soil bears all
+     things, but not for me.... In a word, and to be serious, I
+     have spent my time here in such torment and vexation that
+     nothing hereafter in life can ever make amends for it.
+
+Still, for all this, he found time for some writing, especially for a
+play, the one called _Androborus_--The Man-eater,--in which he wrote
+in such a bantering, humorous, satirical manner of the colonial
+officers as to set the town going with laughter. From this on he got
+along better and the people came to appreciate their Governor.
+Gradually there centred about the house in the fort a "Court Circle,"
+where the Lady Hunter shone brightly, not alone because she was the
+first lady of the province, nor because her husband was Governor and a
+writer, but because others came to know her as a loving, lovely, and
+lovable woman. But when it looked as though the Governor was to have
+at last the ease and rest and quiet he had hoped for from the
+beginning, Lady Hunter died! This was the worst that could happen to
+Robert Hunter. There was nothing more for him to live and struggle
+for, he said. He resigned his office and, before many years, his life.
+
+At this time of the "Court Circle," a mild, quiet man, the son of a
+Presbyterian minister, came from Philadelphia to visit the Governor.
+And no one could foresee that this Cadwallader Colden would remain
+during the rest of his life and be, for almost half a century, the
+leader of literary New York.
+
+Colden came to be a friend of William Bradford, as he had been of
+Hunter, and watched his work with deep interest. He often advised
+Bradford when that first printer of New York published the _New York
+Gazette_, in 1725, the first newspaper in the city, and upheld him a
+few years later when the second newspaper was issued by Bradford's old
+apprentice boy, Peter Zenger, who had become his rival.
+
+In the first ten years that Colden lived in New York he wrote
+diligently, and published his _History of the Five Nations_, an
+exhaustive work telling of the powerful Indian tribes, of their forms
+of government, and their wars. This was one of the earliest books of
+importance, and he was planning a second part of this same history
+when, in the year 1732, Cosby came to be Governor. In after years
+Colden told how his studies and his writings were interrupted by the
+coming of the new and lively Governor.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+Numb. 425
+
+THE
+
+New-York Gazette,
+
+From _December_ 10, to Monday, _December_ 17, 1733.]
+
+And now it seemed as though there were to be dissensions in the city.
+There was trouble with the Governor; trouble with Peter Zenger, who
+wished to print what the king's representatives did not want printed;
+trouble about who should be Chief Justice. But when these were
+straightened out there began a season of festivity, and during one
+entire winter there were entertainments at which the culture, the
+refinement, and the wit of the province gathered. These were days of
+splendor, when women wore gay brocades and arranged their hair in a
+variety of bewildering, towering, and fantastic shapes; when wide
+skirts were in the heyday of their fashion; when tight-lacing was in
+vogue; when men wore enormous wigs, and attired themselves in many
+colors, adorning themselves with buttons of silver--large, and
+decorated with the initials of the wearer.
+
+In the height of this brilliant season there came from England, to
+visit the Governor's family, Lord Augustus Fitzroy, son of that Duke
+of Grafton who was Chamberlain to King George II. He was received with
+all the ceremony due to his rank. The Mayor, the Recorder, and some
+other city officials met, and presented to him the freedom of the city
+in a box of burnished gold. Soon Lord Augustus had made himself so
+vastly agreeable to one of the daughters of Governor Cosby that there
+was talk of a marriage. But everybody agreed that this could not be,
+for the match was beneath him, according to the ideas of English
+society. Still, the young man was determined, the young woman was
+inclined, and the Governor's wife was a strategist. So one mild
+summer's night the young nobleman, resplendent in gay clothes, with a
+couple of his friends, assisted Dominie Campbell over the fort wall,
+where they found the young woman waiting, and there in the silence and
+the darkness the marriage occurred. There was some stern talk of what
+ought to be done to Dominie Campbell, and wonderment as to what the
+Duke of Grafton would say, but nothing serious came of it, although
+the romantic wedding was the talk of the town for many a year.
+
+Cadwallader Colden lived down by the waterside near the fort wall over
+which Dominie Campbell was dragged. And in his house there, when
+Cosby's rule quieted down, Colden got to his studies again. He lived
+until the days of the Revolution were at hand; lived to exercise the
+duties of Governor in a stormy period; lived to see the town rent by
+turmoil and political rancor; lived to be hated by many people for
+loyalty to a king they would no longer serve. Quite to the end of
+his life he remained a leader, and, dying, left writings on history,
+medicine, geology, botany, metaphysics, and other learned subjects.
+
+[Illustration: KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773.]
+
+It was in this midway time between the days of Cosby and the period of
+the Revolution that William Smith lived and wrote. Not so marked a
+figure in literature as Colden, nor so profound a student; not one to
+leave so strong and lasting an imprint, but well to be remembered as a
+writer whose birthplace was New York. Born in the year after Colden
+published his _History of the Five Nations_, he attained a high place
+as a lawyer, giving his attention to the political and legal records.
+When still a young man he was one of those who spoke at the ceremony
+of the laying of the corner-stone of King's College--which was to be
+in existence a century and a half later as Columbia University. For
+many years he lived close by Colden and intercourse would have led to
+mutual good, but the two were not friendly after Smith wrote a history
+of the city and Colden criticised it.
+
+Although William Smith was one of the earliest writers to own New York
+as his birthplace, he would not join in a revolt against the king whom
+he had served all his life. So he accepted the post of Chief Justice
+of Canada, leaving others to become the writers of the Revolution.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+The Poet of the Revolution
+
+
+In the far down-town business section of New York, there is a street
+so short that you can walk its entire length in ten minutes or less
+time. It leads from the park where the City Hall is, straight to the
+river. Beginning at the tall buildings where the newspapers have their
+homes, it continues along between the warehouses of leather merchants
+and the solid stonework of the bridge that crosses from the Manhattan
+to the Brooklyn shore; leads to the open space at the top of Cherry
+Hill, then makes a steep descent as though about to plunge deep into
+the river. For much of its length it is a constant scene of noise and
+bustle and disorder--that is, in the daylight hours. At night, when
+it is silent and deserted, it suggests the time, far back in the year
+1678, when it was a country lane some distance from the city, a
+by-path leading from the house of Jacob Leisler to the river. It was
+Frankfort Lane then, Leisler calling it so as a reminder of the German
+town of his birth. Now it has become Frankfort Street. Leisler's
+garden was close upon the spot where the street touches the parkside,
+and here Leisler was executed in 1691, a martyr to the cause of
+constitutional liberty.
+
+The lane was beginning to assume the proportions of a street in the
+year 1752, when there lived in one of the dainty houses that fronted
+it the family of Pierre Freneau, the last of a long line of Huguenots.
+There were Freneaus who fought with the Huguenots at La Rochelle, and
+there were Freneaus still living in that ancient city when the
+revocation of the Edict of Nantes forced so many to strange lands. The
+Freneau family, refugees from their native land, prospered in America,
+and a son born in the Frankfort Street house in this year 1752 gave
+historic interest to the name. The boy was christened Philip, and came
+to be called the Poet of the Revolution.
+
+Philip Freneau struggled through babyhood in Frankfort Street, and
+just as he was able to walk was whisked away to a farm in New Jersey,
+where his father had built a house, calling it Mount Pleasant after
+the old homestead in La Rochelle.
+
+Quite within the throw of a stone of Frankfort Street, and in the very
+year of Philip Freneau's birth, was born Eliza Schuyler, who with the
+passing of years was to marry and bear the name of Eliza Bleecker and
+the title of the first poetess of New York.
+
+[Illustration: The Collect]
+
+In her childhood, the future poetess had a favorite walk over the bit
+of rolling ground to the south of Frankfort Street, the spot called
+Golden Hill, which a few years later was to be trampled by many
+soldiers, where the tall grass was to be reddened by the blood of
+patriots--the first blood shed in the Revolution. She strolled hand in
+hand with her father over the green Common, which was to become the
+City Hall Park. Sometimes, in the mid-summer, she was taken on
+excursions to the shores of a pleasant lake, called the Collect,
+quite a journey from the city. It was there that John Fitch's boat
+sailed years before Fulton's successful boat was launched into the
+Hudson. When the city outgrew its early bounds, the lake was drained
+and solid ground made, and the Tombs Prison rose in gloomy majesty
+where the deep waters had been.
+
+[Illustration: THE DEBTORS' PRISON.]
+
+Eliza Schuyler preserved a lively memory of playing about a little
+square frame building on the Common, and though she never spoke of it
+by name it was the first Poor House of the city. She wrote, too, of a
+certain day when she went to the Common with her father--he was an
+important man that day and served on a committee--to see laid the
+first stone of another building. It was only a Debtors' Prison, but it
+was looked upon as the most beautiful structure in the city for many a
+day. For it was in the main patterned after the temple of Diana of
+Ephesus. The townsmen of those early days admired the building, and
+would have grieved if they could have foreseen that the day would come
+when city officials would forget that the old prison had been copied
+from so perfect a model; would forget that it had been a military
+prison when the British held possession of the city; would forget that
+many a brave officer of the Continental Army and many a true patriot
+soldier had passed bitter days there, and dying had left memories of
+sentiment and poetry and historic interest hovering about the old
+place.
+
+Still, though it could not be foretold, the day did come when it was
+no longer a prison but had become the Hall of Records, when it was
+called an ugly and unsightly structure which obstructed the view of
+newer and taller ones--buildings that Tammany architects considered
+the perfection of beauty perhaps on account of their costliness. So it
+must be torn down.
+
+At the age between girlhood and womanhood, Eliza Schuyler left New
+York to live in the village of Tomhannock, and when news of her again
+reached her friends in the city she was the wife of John J. Bleecker.
+Only twice after that did she revisit the scenes of her early life,
+and it was not until her death that the writings of this first poetess
+of New York became well known and popular.
+
+The short and peaceful life of Eliza Bleecker was nearing an end
+before--his college days being over--Philip Freneau again trod the
+streets of New York. Already his tireless pen was at work, the pen
+that was to aid the cause of the Revolution. But when it looked to him
+as though his country would not be able to throw off the kingly yoke,
+he decided on a journey. He passed two years in the West Indies
+writing of the _Beauties of Santa Cruz_ and the _House of Night_. Then
+a longing for the home from which he received scant word came upon
+him. He started homeward, only to be lured from his course by the
+beauties of Bermuda, where he fell in love with the Governor's
+daughter, remembered in his verse as the "Fair Amanda." He was still
+writing, lolling his time away beneath tropical skies, when tardy news
+came that the colonies had declared themselves free. Swiftly he threw
+off the languor of repose, of love, of romance, and returned home.
+The charm of the sea life was on him then, so taking out letters of
+reprisal from the Continental Congress, Freneau the poet sailed over
+the sea, actively aiding his country's cause by capturing British
+merchantmen and sinking British ships for a year, until in 1780 he
+had a ship of his own built. But on her first voyage disaster befell
+her, and almost within sight of land the _Aurora_ was captured. When
+Philip Freneau next saw New York it was as a prisoner on the hulk
+_Scorpion_, as she lay anchored alongside another notorious
+prison-ship, the _Jersey_, close by the Battery shore.
+
+There never was such an energetic prisoner. Each moment was employed
+for his country, if not with his sword at least with his pen, which
+was quite as powerful a weapon.
+
+[Illustration: The British Prison-Ship]
+
+In those days of wretched misery and suffering, within view of the
+city by day, in the noisome ship's hold by night, Freneau thought out
+his best-remembered poem, _The British Prison-Ship_ and many another
+line which in the later days of the Revolution was to rouse American
+feeling; verse that was to be distributed to the American soldiers, to
+be read by them on the march and by the light of the camp-fires; lines
+that were to commemorate the victories and the heroism of the soldiers
+of the Revolution; lines ridiculing each separate act of the British.
+
+New York, in this time that the poet Freneau lay a prisoner, was not
+as it had been in his college days. The battle of Long Island had been
+fought, and Washington and his army had been driven from New York. And
+on the night of the British entry a great fire had started in the
+lower part of the city, swept away the house where Bradford's press
+had been, leaped across Broadway and laid Trinity Church a mass of
+ruins scattered over the churchyard where Freneau's father lay buried.
+
+The British soldiers were quartered in the public buildings; the
+British officers had taken possession of the houses deserted by
+wealthy patriots; the Middle Dutch Church, which had been the
+architectural pride of the city, had become a riding school for
+troopers.
+
+[Illustration: The Middle Dutch Church]
+
+There was a red-painted wooden building in John Street, a few feet
+from Broadway, the only theatre in the city. The actors had closed it,
+and fled at the coming of the British. But the house was open again
+now, and the British officers played at mimic war between the
+intervals of real battles.
+
+No one threw himself more heartily into these performances than Major
+John Andre, who was so soon to give up his life for his country. He
+even wrote some of the speeches used by the actors, and one of the
+poems he wrote for Rivington's _Gazetteer_ was printed while he was
+away on his last mission, conferring with Benedict Arnold on the banks
+of the Hudson.
+
+After the treason was discovered, Arnold sought a safe retreat within
+the British lines at New York, and lived for a time in a solid,
+picturesque little house by the Bowling Green. It stood on a grassy
+slope that stretched down to the water's edge a few boat lengths from
+where the _Scorpion_ lay with the poet prisoner on board.
+
+There was a picket fence, painted white, on one side of the green
+slope, and Sergeant John Champe once hid his men behind it to carry
+off Arnold when he should take his nightly walk by the waterside, an
+attempt that failed through Arnold's changing his quarters on the
+selfsame day.
+
+When the Revolution was over, Freneau was again in New York, which
+slowly recovered from the ravages of war. Hanover Square was a
+favorite haunt of his. He has left the record that he loved to linger
+in that open space, where might be seen a mingling of business and
+home life. Freneau liked it, for there books were printed and sold,
+and, too, it was the "Newspaper Row" of the town. This open space had
+been at first Van Brugh Street, taking its name from Johannes
+Pietersen Van Brugh, a wealthy Hollander whose home faced the square
+for close upon half a century. It bore his name until in 1714, when
+with the accession of George I. of Hanover it took the name of Hanover
+Square.
+
+In a house facing this square, Bradford printed the first newspaper,
+and though in Freneau's time it was still standing, a more stately
+building was to take its place and bear a tablet telling of the old
+one. It was here that the other early newspapers came into existence:
+Parker's _Weekly Post-Boy_, in 1742; Weyman's _New York Gazette_, in
+1759; Holt's _New York Journal_, in 1766. It was here, too, that was
+prominently displayed the "Sign of the Bible and Crown," before the
+house of Hugh Gaine. Freneau had flayed this man in his verse many a
+time.
+
+Gaine was an Irishman who published the _New York Mercury_, and
+changed his politics to whichever side was uppermost--Whig to-day,
+Tory to-morrow. He printed Freneau's satires against Great Britain as
+a Whig, and then as a Tory fell under the power of Freneau's pen, for
+Freneau hated inconstancy quite as much as he did Tory principles.
+
+Then there was close at hand the home of Rivington's _New York
+Gazetteer_. This Rivington, failing as a bookseller in London,
+planted his sign in Hanover Square and proudly proclaimed himself as
+the only London bookseller in America. He established his Tory
+newspaper, the _New York Gazetteer_, and had it wrecked by patriots,
+who threw the furniture out into Hanover Square and moulded the type
+into bullets. It was he who printed the poems of Andre; who after the
+war gave up a Tory paper and was strong for the cause of the new
+nation and was in consequence denounced by Freneau.
+
+Freneau smiled to see the signs of Gaine and Rivington changed to suit
+the views of the new republic and rivalling one another in their show
+of patriotism. Tempted into Gaine's bookstore by the display of
+volumes, he chanced upon a friend who called him by name. And old Hugh
+Gaine, turning slowly about at the sound of a name he knew so well,
+stared at the enemy he had never seen:
+
+"Is your name Freneau?" he asked. And the poet answered:
+
+"Yes, Philip Freneau."
+
+For just a moment the bookseller hesitated, then said:
+
+"I want to shake your hand; you have given me and my friend Rivington
+a lasting reputation."
+
+It was in one of these very bookstores that Freneau met Lindley Murray
+in the year after the peace was declared. From their first meeting the
+two were friends. Murray had accumulated a fortune as a salt merchant
+on Long Island during the British occupation. Strong patriot as
+Freneau was, he was attracted to the son at first through the memory
+of the parent, for it was Lindley Murray's mother, living on Murray
+Hill, who had saved Putnam's troops from being trapped by the British.
+The friendship of Freneau and Lindley Murray might have ripened,
+but that in the year after their meeting Murray went to England, where
+he was to devote himself, for his own amusement, to horticulture, in a
+pretty little garden beside his home near York, and where he wrote his
+famous grammar for a young ladies' school.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. WILLIAM SMITH.
+2. PETER STUYVESANT.
+3. PHILIP FRENEAU.
+4. THOMAS PAINE.
+5. JOEL BARLOW.]
+
+Even in the lifetime of Freneau, changes came to Hanover Square. For
+more than half a century it was the "Newspaper Row," then it gradually
+became the dry-goods district, then settled down to a general centre
+for wholesale houses. At one corner of the square lived for a time
+Jean Victor Moreau, the French General, after he had been banished for
+supposed participation in the plot of Cadoudal and Pichegru against
+the life of the First Consul.
+
+[Illustration: Fraunces' Tavern]
+
+In the years that followed the Revolution, Freneau spent much of his
+time in sea trips, but he was in the city again when George Washington
+took the oath of office as the first President of the United States at
+the Federal Hall in Wall Street; and was in the quaint St. Paul's
+Chapel, then quite a new structure, when Washington went there on the
+day of his inauguration. In the same year, Freneau lived for a time in
+Wall Street, close by the house where Alexander Hamilton lived, who in
+those days was a figure in literary New York by reason of his writing
+of the _Federalist_ papers. That was thirteen years before Hamilton
+occupied his country house, "The Grange," far up the island, which
+was to be still standing a hundred years later, when the city had
+crept up to and beyond it, and left it where One Hundred and
+Forty-first Street crosses Convent Avenue. Close by, in narrow Nassau
+Street, when Freneau lived in Wall, was the home of a man who had been
+his classmate in college. This was Aaron Burr. He, too, in a few
+years, was to leave the humble house in Nassau Street, to live in the
+Richmond Hill house, where the British Commissary Mortier had lived,
+and from which Burr walked forth on an eventful morning in 1804 to
+fight a mortal combat with Hamilton on the Jersey shore.
+
+[Illustration: Broad St. and Federal Hall]
+
+In 1791 Philip Freneau was in Philadelphia editing the _National
+Gazette_, the strongest political paper of his day, memorable for
+partisan abuse and for such bitter attacks on the administration that
+Washington alluded to its editor as "that rascal Freneau." The paper
+continued under Freneau until 1793, when he returned to New York for a
+time.
+
+[Illustration: Richmond Hill]
+
+In those days of 1793 there were three or four detached houses in
+Cedar Street close by Nassau. In the one nearest the corner, on any
+day of the week a man, slender and tall, with eyes that were keen and
+gray, with dress always in perfect taste, with broad-brimmed hat and
+queue, could be seen. He came from this house and walked over to
+Broadway, and his neighbors watched regularly for his going and his
+coming. He was Noah Webster, editor of _The Minerva_, a paper at that
+time devoted to the support of President Washington's administration.
+His name was to become a household word, for his paper became the
+_Commercial Advertiser_ (that lived and throve even in the twentieth
+century), and after he had left the city he wrote a world-famed
+dictionary.
+
+The poetic muse hovered closest about Philip Freneau in the days of
+stirring scenes and momentous events. The Poet of the Revolution was
+less active when quieter days came. Still he continued to pass a life
+of restless energy, and lived far into another century and long after
+many another writer had arisen to eclipse him in the literary life of
+New York.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+In the Days of Thomas Paine
+
+
+When the eighteenth century was within two years of its close, a group
+of men, perhaps half a dozen in all, made up the writers of New York.
+
+The city then lay between the park (a name that had just been bestowed
+upon the Common of old) and the Battery; with Broadway, the main
+thoroughfare of the town, sending out tendrils of narrow streets to
+tangle and turn about themselves in such persistent fashion that they
+were never to be straightened out. Quite abruptly, where the park
+began, Broadway dwindled from a street to a lane, but with a strong
+branch thoroughfare to the east which, with the advent of years, was
+to become Park Row. It was not a new thoroughfare by any means, since,
+as far back as the days of the Dutch Governors, it had been the one
+road that led up through the forested island.
+
+There faced the road, and so quite of necessity faced the park as
+well, a square building, its front so taken up with windows and doors
+as to cause wonder that there should be any pretence whatsoever of a
+front wall. Not an attractive building, with these many windows always
+staring, like eyes, across the road into the park, but one to be
+remembered because, for one reason or another, it could well be called
+the literary centre of the town. Here it stood, the first Park
+Theatre, towering above its neighbors, glistening in its newness.
+
+[Illustration: The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre
+
+The corner stone of
+this Theatre was laid
+on the 5th day of May
+AD 1795
+
+Jacob Morton     }
+Wm. Henderson    } Commissioners
+Carlile Pollock  }
+
+Lewis Hallem     }
+John Hodgkinson  } managers]
+
+It was rare in the days when the Park Theatre was new, just as it is
+rare nowadays, for writers to be of a practical turn of mind. But in
+this little group, oddly enough, there was one man of business. He was
+the proprietor of the theatre, and although he wrote plays, and
+painted pictures, and wrote books, William Dunlap was a man of
+affairs. His home was around the corner in quiet Ann Street, which in
+another hundred years came to be a very noisy street indeed, crowded
+with venders of every sort of odds and ends that can be imagined. A
+block away, around another corner in Beekman Street, on the south side
+below Nassau, was Dunlap's home when he had given up the theatre,
+settled down to literature, and got to writing his important books,
+the _American Theatre_ and the _History, Rise, and Progress of the
+Arts of Design in the United States_. While he was yet managing the
+theatre, Dunlap's favorite strolling-place was up along the parkside,
+past the Brick Church, and so on a few steps across Nassau Street to
+where Spruce Street has its start. On any pleasant afternoon he could
+be found standing on that corner, for a time at least, before the
+door of Martling's Tavern, where the Tammany Society had its first
+home. Looking at that first Wigwam after this lapse of time, it seems
+picturesque enough, and it must in truth have been so, for the enemies
+of the Tammany Society were in the habit of referring to it as the
+"Pig-pen." A frame building, low, rough, and unpainted, with a
+bar-room at one end, a kitchen at the other, and between the two a
+"long room," some steps lower than the general floor,--that was
+Martling's.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND SPRUCE
+STREETS.]
+
+In the tap-room at Martling's, after an evening in which the untimely
+death of George Frederick Cooke had been discussed, Dunlap announced
+his intention of writing a life of his actor-friend, who then lay in a
+new-made grave in St. Paul's Churchyard. The book was written, and
+though few remember the volume now, it was widely read and served to
+keep alive the actor's memory. Since that time the grave has been
+cared for, and the marble tombstone, later erected by Edmund Kean,
+still stands amid the bushes close by the entrance door of the Chapel.
+
+It was in the year 1810 that Cooke played at the Park Theatre, the
+first foreign "star" to come to the city and to attract the
+townspeople in such wise that they almost mobbed the playhouse in
+their efforts to see him. It was this same Cooke, who, hearing many
+speak of a young actor who had played there the year before, said, "I
+should have liked to have seen this Payne of yours." Cooke saw him the
+next year, and they appeared together in this same Park Theatre, Payne
+playing Edgar to Cooke's Lear.
+
+The name of John Howard Payne did not then have the significance that
+it came to have later. For he was known only as a youth who had acted
+Norval in the tragedy of _Douglas_ with such fiery earnestness as to
+be proclaimed the "Young American Roscius." Who could have foreseen
+that adventurous "boy actor" grown to manhood, and writing a song that
+was to live and be known the world over by reason of its appeal to all
+hearts?
+
+In Pearl Street, scarce a foot of which is left untrod by the
+footsteps of the writers of the city, Payne was born. Around the
+modest house that bore the number 33, near to Whitehall Street, he
+first toddled with baby steps, and the nearby "broad" street, where
+the canal had been, was his first journey when he could walk. His
+parents moved to East Hampton, on Long Island, so early in his
+childhood, and so many of his childish days were passed in the fields
+there while his father taught school in the Clinton Academy, that
+East Hampton is often spoken of as the place of his birth. But for all
+that the "lowly thatched cottage" of his song was there, and for all
+that much of his later life was passed in foreign countries, Payne
+loved the city of his birth and took occasion many times to say so.
+
+In London, when ill-luck bore hardest upon him, he wrote _Clari, the
+Maid of Milan_, and gave _Home, Sweet Home_ to the heroine as her
+principal song. He received the honors of New York when he returned
+for a brief period, twenty-two years after his boyish triumph at the
+Park Theatre, and was so affectionately remembered that when, a decade
+later, he died in far-away Tunis, it was felt that he should not be
+left in a foreign land. But, although this sentiment was strong, it
+was not until 1883 that his body was brought to America. Then, for a
+day, the coffin lay in state in the City Hall, in the Governor's Room,
+close by a window from which a view could be had of where the old Park
+Theatre had stood, just across the stretch of green sward. And the
+people, in honor of the man whose one song had thrilled an entire
+world, filed past the sealed coffin by the thousands, and shed many a
+tear that day.
+
+One of the tortuous streets springing from Broadway, starting close by
+Trinity Church, winding away to the east, and mingling with other
+streets until brought to an abrupt halt by the river, was called, and
+is still called, Pine Street. In the first days of the nineteenth
+century it bore no suggestion, save in name, of a forest that once
+stretched above the city. In those good old days when the Dutch held
+full sway, Cornelius van Tienhoven was the bookkeeper of the West
+India Company, and when he married the step-daughter of Jan Jansen
+Damen, the bride brought him as dower a slice of this forest. When,
+later, a clearing was cut through the wood it was called Tienhoven's
+Street. But such a name rang too strongly Dutch for those who served
+an English king, and when the English came they quickly called it King
+Street. And so it remained until after the Revolution, when, in
+remembrance of the Dutch forest, the name was changed to Pine Street.
+
+Now, whether it was pure accident or whether he searched and found the
+prettiest street in all the town, it is nevertheless a fact that here
+Dr. Elihu Hubbard Smith had fixed his home, scarce more than a block
+from Trinity Church, and here he wrote much of his verse. Here, too,
+in his house, on many a Tuesday evening, met the Friendly Club, and
+at these meetings, following the custom of the club from the time that
+Washington lived in the city, each member in turn read a passage from
+some favorite author, thus giving impetus to the conversation. In Dr.
+Smith's parlor, joining in these discussions, sat William Dunlap,
+Charles Brockden Brown, James Kent, Joseph Dennie, and all the writers
+of the circle. It was Dr. Smith who wrote the prologue for the Park
+Theatre upon its opening, and not a member of the Friendly Club but
+attended the first performance.
+
+[Illustration: MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827.]
+
+It is small wonder that Charles Brockden Brown was the foremost member
+of the club. He had just claim. Thrusting aside criticism and advice,
+ignoring the fact that he was an invalid facing the hardship that must
+be overcome, he stood forth as the first writer in America to support
+himself by his pen alone. The Bar, even though there was ever so fair
+a prospect of his earning a living by it, could not attract him
+against his natural desire. The writings of this determined genius
+could not but be successful. Seeking no friends, but having many,
+preferring the single companionship of Dr. Smith, with whom he lived,
+Charles Brockden Brown wrote his novel, _Wieland_, and followed it in
+the next three years with _Ormond_, _Edgar Huntley_, _Arthur Mervyn_,
+_Jane Talbot_, and _Clara Howard_. Many a man of the pen, in
+admiration of the iron will of this first American novelist, finds a
+delight in thinking of him and in following his footsteps along Pine
+Street and the lower end of Broadway to the Battery.
+
+[Illustration: The Post Office
+
+William St.]
+
+In the days of bereavement following the death of Dr. Smith, the
+companion of Brown's solitude was Joseph Dennie. Often in the
+intervals of work they wandered through the quiet park, and many a
+time they knelt together in the Brick Church, a square beyond the Park
+Theatre, with the memory of their dead companion strong upon them. The
+shadow of their friend's death was still over them when they parted,
+and Joseph Dennie went to Philadelphia to start his magazine, _The
+Portfolio_, which was to cause the name of "The Lay Preacher" to ring
+through the land. He was in Philadelphia when Brown, in 1803, started
+_The Literary Magazine and American Register_. But the next year he
+was in New York again, occasionally joining in a literary partnership
+in which there was a third member now, for Brown had married the
+daughter of Dr. Linn, the Presbyterian minister. The years rolled on,
+and Brown sought to fight off death by terrific work. But death only
+clutched him the tighter. The strolls with Elizabeth, his
+gentle-hearted wife, grew shorter and shorter and less frequent, until
+they ceased altogether six years after his marriage, and another
+landmark in the literary history of the city had gone down.
+
+There was one stately and studious member of the Friendly Club who, it
+is recorded, could seldom be persuaded to go to the Park Theatre
+except on the "great nights." James Kent, then a Professor of Law at
+Columbia College, when not at work (those were rare moments indeed),
+loved best to wander over the College grounds. These are now lost
+beyond all tracing in the overcrowding between the City Hall and
+Hudson River. Then it was a delightful country spot. When Professor
+Kent did not walk on the College grounds by the riverside, he strolled
+up Broadway past the hospital with his friend, Dr. David Hosack, and
+the two discussed at length the Elgin Botanical Garden that the
+physician had just laid out three miles above the city. It was this
+James Kent who came to be Chancellor of New York and whose memory
+lives in his _Commentaries on American Law_.
+
+Beyond the city, separated from it in summer by a mile of marshy and
+untilled land, in winter by a dreary waste with a single road leading
+across a snow-bound way, lay the village of Greenwich. A dreamy little
+country place that had been an Indian village before the settling of
+New Amsterdam; with lines of peaked-roof houses on zig-zagged lanes,
+and now and again, in the midst of a farm-like garden, a rambling
+house of stone, with great square windows and gables enough for half a
+dozen houses. The village might have been thousands of miles away from
+New York for all the likeness it bore to it.
+
+On a dusty and rarely travelled lane, that led from the village
+towards the city, lived a man who had won the hearts of Americans by
+writing _Common Sense_, but who lived to reap their hatred by writing
+_The Age of Reason_, a deistic argument against Christianity. In the
+quiet village his house was pointed out as the abode of a friendless
+man, and when they spoke of him the villagers whispered the dread
+name--Tom Paine.
+
+There he lived with Madame Bonneville and her two sons, the only
+companions he cared to have near him save his own thoughts. In that
+picturesque spot he was fully content to pass his final days in
+solitude and marked contrast to a life of energy and excitement.
+
+It is close upon a century since that time, and the pilgrim feet that
+seek to follow Paine through Greenwich Village must walk Bleecker
+Street (the dusty lane in much changed form), must pass Grove Street,
+and the fourth house from the corner, on the north side, walking
+towards the east, is Paine's. It was humble enough in the days when he
+lived there. It is far humbler now in contrast to the buildings that
+have grown up about it. A two-story frame house, the ground floor is
+made into a store, as though it made an effort to keep up with the
+business character of the street. Two brick structures rise above it
+on each side and seem to have forced the roof to a frightful angle, so
+different is it from its new neighbors. Once Joel Barlow went to see
+Paine there, and the two spent almost an entire day beside a front
+window, talking of many things. Paine recalled the troublous days of
+the French Revolution, when he had written his _Age of Reason_ in the
+prison of the Luxembourg, and had given it to Barlow to find a
+publisher. The author of the _Columbiad_ often spoke of the visit
+later.
+
+The dusty road where the house stood, even though it was little
+travelled, came to be too noisy a place for Paine, for in his illness
+even the chance passer-by irritated him. So he moved away to a house
+in a nearby field, so far from the road that he found absolute quiet.
+In after days Grove Street swept this home away, and another building,
+numbered 59, is pointed out as the place where Paine died shortly
+after his removal.
+
+The hatred of many people followed Thomas Paine even after death, and
+there could be no rest for an advocate of infidel opinions in a town
+where dwelt descendants of stern Huguenots. His body was taken to New
+Rochelle, and there, refused burial in hallowed ground, was finally
+laid to rest outside the town, in a corner of the farm given to him by
+the State in recognition of his services in the cause of the colonies
+against the mother country. Ten years later, William Cobbett, the
+English Radical, an ardent admirer of Paine, visited New Rochelle,
+and, seeing the neglected grave by the wayside, had the bones dug up
+one night and spirited away to England. In another twenty years the
+followers of Thomas Paine had grown in number, and the Paine
+Historical Society erected a monument over the empty grave by the
+roadside. But on this spot, where no rest had been permitted him in
+life or in death, it seems rather to mock than to bless his grave.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+The City that Irving Knew
+
+
+Stretching from Broadway towards the east, starting from the
+ivy-covered walls of the Chapel of St. Paul--here lay the scenes of
+Washington Irving's childhood. Golden Hill was the name given to this
+district, long before Irving was born; called so because of its golden
+appearance in the autumn days. It was a wondrously beautiful place,
+and set squarely upon the hill-top was an inn that, in the days of the
+Revolution, came to be a meeting-place for patriots. Even now, when
+the glories of Golden Hill seem quite forgotten, there are those who
+love to walk its crowded ways, and who firmly believe that it came by
+its name in prophecy of the golden flower of literature one day to be
+born close by it.
+
+[Illustration: Golden Hill Inn]
+
+The lane that once had its course up the grain-covered hill is there
+yet; now, a crowded, dismal thoroughfare bearing the name of William
+Street. It is well to start with this old lane, partly because it is
+the oldest street in the Golden Hill district, and partly because the
+Golden Hill inn of old still stands upon it: a squatty building built
+of narrow bricks that were brought from Holland, with a tall chimney
+like none of its neighbors; a venerable house full of cracks and
+crevices, carved mantels, open fireplaces, wide doorways; made over to
+conform to modern business ideas, but not conforming to these very
+well; painted and patched up to look new, but looking quite its age to
+any one with half an eye for architecture.
+
+Almost opposite this inn of Golden Hill, midway of the block between
+Fulton and John streets, there stood in the year 1783 a quaint little
+two-storied dwelling with high-backed roof. One morning the patrons of
+the inn had a bit to gossip about. It was a year for gossip anyway,
+for the War of the Revolution was near its close. The talk was of a
+child that had been born to the Irving family over the way, and who
+was to be called Washington in honor of the man so well named the
+"Father of his Country." Before another year the Irving family moved
+into a house next to the inn on the north and separated from it only
+by a garden. In this house Washington Irving spent his youth. Close by
+he was baptized, in the Chapel of St. George. The Chapel is gone now,
+but where Beekman Street crosses Cliff, on the front of a building
+appear in raised letters the words "St. George Building," that show
+the spot where it once stood.
+
+Not far off is the place where the John Street Theatre was, where
+Irving went with his friend James K. Paulding, who was himself to make
+a name in the literature of the city. Irving's parents were not given
+to theatre-going, but Irving, when the family prayers had been said
+and he had been sent to bed, ofttimes crept out of the gable window,
+slid down the slanting roof, dropped to the ground, and stole away. He
+went, just as now following in his footsteps you can go, past the old
+inn, around the next corner where, on a house wall, is a tablet
+reciting the departed glories of Golden Hill, then on a few steps
+until you reach, close by Broadway, a dreary arcade. Walk through the
+arcade and you will find it heavy with the sounds of workmen and
+machines. The arcade was a covered way leading to the playhouse, and
+is all that remains of the theatre.
+
+[Illustration: St. George's Chapel
+
+Beekman St.]
+
+Two minutes' walk away in Ann Street was Mrs. Ann Kilmaster's school,
+where Irving studied. Ann Street is only three blocks long and far
+from an inviting spot at any point, but here, in the last block of its
+length, it dwindles to half the width it had in starting.
+
+A score of steps from the school, at the northwest corner of Ann
+Street and William, Irving lived with his mother after his father's
+death. The house is no longer there, but there is one just like it
+five houses farther along William Street, that stood there in Irving's
+time.
+
+In the Ann Street house, when he was a law clerk, he did his first
+writing, the sketches signed "Jonathan Oldstyle," and published in the
+_Morning Chronicle_, which was conducted by his brother Peter. From
+this house, while still a lad, he loved to wander down the streets
+that stretched over the eastern slope of Golden Hill, and spent hours
+on the piers watching the ships loading and unloading, dreaming of the
+foreign ports where they had touched, hoping that he might one day see
+the shores of those far-away lands. For even in his boyhood the
+longing for travel was strong upon him.
+
+He was still a law clerk, and still living in this Ann Street house,
+when he sat in an upper room with his brother William and James K.
+Paulding, and they planned a magazine of their own. They went to see
+David Longworth, the printer, in his shop beside the Park
+Theatre,--"Dusky Davie" they called him, after a song that was popular
+at the time,--and after many conferences and much secret doing the
+three stripling writers started the sparkling _Salmagundi_ on its way,
+with the avowed purpose "to instruct the young, reform the old,
+correct the town, and castigate the age." Paulding was the "Launcelot
+Langstaff" of the publication, and William Irving was "Pindar
+Cockloft" the poet.
+
+To the west of Golden Hill, Cortlandt Street extends to the river. In
+a house on that street close by Broadway, the three writers of
+_Salmagundi_ spent much time at the home of the Fairlie sisters.
+There lived Mary Fairlie, known to _Salmagundi_ readers as "Sophia
+Sparkle," and who married Cooper the tragic actor.
+
+In the Ann Street house most of the _Knickerbocker History of New
+York_ was written. Washington Irving and his brother Peter were to
+write it as an extravagant burlesque on Dr. Samuel Mitchill's _Picture
+of New York_, then a very popular and learned work. But Peter Irving
+was forced to Europe by ill health in 1808, and Washington settled
+down to the history, changing its plan and scope. Ten minutes' walk to
+the north of where Irving lived in Ann Street is a little park--a
+green spot that has taken the place of the squalid Mulberry Bend slum.
+In Mulberry Street opposite the park was the location of the imaginary
+Independent Columbian Hotel where Dietrich Knickerbocker was supposed
+to have lived, and left his manuscript in payment of his board bill.
+
+But by far the most important house connected with this part of
+Irving's life is gone now. This was in Broadway where Leonard Street
+now crosses. A square house of many rooms, indeed it was a mansion in
+the city of 1809. Here lived Josiah Ogden Hoffman, the protector of
+the youthful author, in whose office Irving came by his law training.
+In the Hoffman mansion, Irving courted Matilda Hoffman, the lawyer's
+fair daughter; here he saw her sicken and grow more feeble day by day;
+here she died, and so ended the romance of his life. He never
+mentioned her name in after days and could not bear to hear it spoken.
+But she lived in his memory, and he never married. In the depths of
+his seclusion, during the first months of his sorrow, he finished the
+_History_. But his heart was not in the laughter of the book, and he
+made joy for others out of his own sorrow.
+
+Two years after this, Irving was living beside the Bowling Green, at
+16 Broadway, with his friend, Henry Brevoort, at the house of Mrs.
+Ryckman. While here he edited the _Analectic Magazine_. From here he
+often strolled up Broadway as far as Cortlandt Street, to dine at the
+house of Jane Renwick, then passing her widowhood in the city. Her son
+became the Professor James Renwick of Columbia College. It was she of
+whom Burns sang as _The Blue-Eyed Lassie_.
+
+Still another house knew the Irving of early days, the boarding-house
+of Mrs. Brandish, at Greenwich and Rector streets, where he went from
+Bowling Green. It was a pretty brick building on a quiet street then,
+but it is a gloomy-enough place to look upon now, darkened by the
+Elevated Railroad and overrun with hoards of noisy children and
+tenement dwellers; a strange spot to look for memories of the
+gentle-hearted Irving.
+
+When Irving left New York in 1815, it was with no intention of
+remaining away any length of time. In England he wrote _Rip Van
+Winkle_, though he had never been in the Catskills, where the scene of
+his classic lay. In Paris he met John Howard Payne, and the two worked
+together, in the Rue Richelieu, adapting French plays to English
+representation--but this partnership came to little. He went to Spain
+and there, while writing the _Life and Voyages of Columbus_, he met a
+young man then fitting himself by travel to enter on the duties of
+Professor of Modern Languages in Bowdoin College. This was Henry W.
+Longfellow, unknown then as a poet. While in Spain, Irving occupied
+the Governor's quarters in the Alhambra, an otherwise deserted palace,
+abiding there in a kind of Oriental dream, and living over in
+imagination the _Conquest of Granada_. Back in London again as
+Secretary of the Legation to the Court of St. James, he arranged his
+material for the _Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, and half a
+dozen other works. Then, after seventeen years of wandering, he
+returned to his native city.
+
+Although he tells us that his heart throbbed at sight of New York, and
+that in all his travels he had seen no place that caused such a thrill
+of joy, it was no longer the city of his youth. He had left a town of
+one hundred thousand people and found a city of two hundred thousand.
+The companions of his youth had grown to be men, and many of them were
+renowned in literature and business life. He found streets grown long
+out of all remembrance, houses tall beyond all knowing, strangers who
+knew him simply as a name. He found many silent graves where he had
+left blooming youth. But for all this there were many ready and
+anxious to do him honor.
+
+A few steps beyond Trinity Churchyard on Broadway is a narrow
+thoroughfare called Thames Street. It is easy to be found, and beside
+it is a tall building on which is a tablet relating how the Burns's
+Coffee-House once stood on the spot. This had been a mansion built by
+Etienne De Lancey, a Huguenot noble, and Thames Street was the
+carriage-way that led to the door. In this coffee-house the merchants
+of the city signed the Non-Importation Agreement in the days before
+the Revolution.
+
+When Irving returned to the city the coffee-house was gone, and on
+its site was the City Hotel, the main hostelry of the city. Here the
+chief citizens gathered and a banquet was held and all honor paid to
+the "illustrious guest, thrice welcome to his native city."
+
+[Illustration: The City Hotel]
+
+From the site of this old house, it is a pleasant walk down Broadway,
+past the Bowling Green to Bridge Street, where, at No. 3, Irving,
+after his return, went to live with his brother Ebenezer, who had been
+the Captain Greatheart of "Cockloft Hall." Here, in this home, Irving
+spent many happy days. It was called by him "the family hive," for it
+was always filled to overflowing with relatives.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. JAMES KIRKE PAULDING.
+2. PHILIP HONE.
+3. WASHINGTON IRVING.
+4. JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE.
+5. FITZ GREENE HALLECK.
+6. J. FENIMORE COOPER.]
+
+But one place above all others in New York is filled with the memory
+of Irving. This is a bit of ground on the east side of the city, a
+point of land stretching out into the river. Here of all places the
+spirit of Irving still lingers, for here of all places it is less
+changed in appearance since his feet trod the ground. In Irving's day
+it was a stretch of countryside with summer houses of the wealthy at
+long distances facing the river. Now, though the city has encompassed
+it, there is still left the one green spot by the riverside beyond
+Eighty-eighth Street. The East River Park they call it, and there are
+rough stone steps leading to the waterside, winding paths and
+overhanging trees--the trees that Irving stood beneath. And there,
+across the stretch of water, is Hell Gate, its tempestuous waters
+tamed by the hand of man, but nevertheless the same Hell Gate that
+Irving looked upon and that Irving wrote about. Part of this park were
+the grounds of John Jacob Astor, the friend of Irving. His house stood
+beyond the park, where Eighty-eighth Street now touches East End
+Avenue,--a square two-story frame dwelling of colonial type, painted
+white, with deep veranda, wide halls, and spacious rooms; set high
+upon a hill, backed by a forest of towering trees, and fronted by a
+vast lawn stretching by gentle slope to the cliff at the riverside.
+Here Irving was a guest, and wrote _Astoria_, telling of Astor's
+settlement on the Columbia River and of scenes beyond the Rockies;
+here he met Captain Bonneville and his friends, and the journals of
+the one and thrilling tales of the other gave material for the
+_Adventures of Captain Bonneville_.
+
+The house of Astor is gone now, but within the limits of this park
+still stands the home of Gracie, the merchant, where Irving was a
+constant visitor, and where, in the rooms given over to stranger
+hands, still linger memories of Paulding and Halleck, Bancroft and
+Drake, and a host of others.
+
+[Illustration: The House of Astor where Irving wrote "Astoria"]
+
+It was while working on _Astoria_ that Irving began the building of
+Wolfert's Roost, the Van Tassel house of the _Legend of Sleepy
+Hollow_, on that delightful spot on the Hudson which in the first
+days of Irving's residence there was called Dearman. In after time the
+name was changed to Irvington, in his honor, and Wolfert's Roost, in
+honor of the glorious country, became Sunnyside. It is Sunnyside to
+this day, altered by additions made in the intervening years, but
+still the house of Irving; and the ivy clinging to its walls has
+sprung from a root taken from the ruins of Scott's "fair Melrose" and
+planted where it now grows by the friendly hand of Jane Renwick.
+
+[Illustration: Where Irving lived--17th St. and Irving Place]
+
+On the corner of Seventeenth Street and Irving Place (a thoroughfare
+to which his memory gave a name), late in life, Irving lived betimes.
+Here was once the home of John T. Irving, a nephew of the author. It
+is a sturdy house still, and looks as youthful as its neighbors that
+were built many a day after it. Then it stood quite alone in a stretch
+of country. From the windows of the large room on the ground floor,
+Irving could see the waters of the East River. In this room he wrote
+portions of _Oliver Goldsmith_, parts, too, of the _Life of Mahomet_,
+and arranged the notes of what was to be his last book--the _Life of
+Washington_.
+
+But his real home was Sunnyside, and there, in the year 1859, when he
+was seventy-six years old, he died.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+With Paulding, Drake, and Halleck
+
+
+In the summer of 1797, a tall, well-built lad with a face showing just
+a suggestion of melancholy, landed from the weekly market sloop and
+walked along the streets of New York for the first time. He was a
+country boy, well versed in trees and brooks and used to pathless
+hills and rough country roads, and his first impression of New York
+was that the dwellers there were great lumpkins. He could not imagine
+why they pointed at him and nodded at him and laughed as he walked in
+the middle of the street, quite disregarding the paved walk. He
+stopped, from time to time, to ask his way, until he came to a little
+square brick house in Vesey Street, below Church, bearing the number
+43, the home of William Irving. There he went in and was given a good
+hug by Mrs. Irving. The boy was James Kirke Paulding, and she who
+welcomed him was his sister, with whom he was to live until he should
+get a start in the ways and work of the city.
+
+William Irving lived in a house delightfully situated, though no one
+would think so now when the spot is jammed with merchants' warehouses,
+and sounds of trade fill the air. When Paulding came to town, it was
+beyond the ken of the business section, and there were not so many
+houses about but that he could enjoy an inviting view. From the front
+door he looked straight before him over the grounds of Columbia
+College, and to the left across green gardens to the river. From his
+little window in the upper story he saw the city to the south, and to
+the east St. Paul's Chapel, with the steeple that came to be so gray
+with age looking then so new, for it had just been added to the
+church. Beyond the graveyard and across Broadway, he had a good view
+of the park with its three buildings--the Bridewell, the Almshouse,
+and the Prison,--and across the park could see the Park Theatre and
+the Brick Church. He could catch a glimpse of Broadway winding over a
+hill toward the Stone Bridge at Canal Street, and other roads leading
+into the country towards the north, where level stretches led past
+rude farmhouses and quaint inns.
+
+The first few years of Paulding in the city, when he was clerk in the
+United States Loan Office, were years of hard work. But there were
+relaxations, too, for his relationship to William Irving brought him
+in contact with the other members of the family--young Washington
+Irving and Dr. Peter Irving. When, in a few years, Dr. Irving
+published his newspaper, the _Morning Chronicle_, Paulding wrote bits
+of prose and verse for it. So his first writings appeared in the same
+publication and at the same time as the first writings of Washington
+Irving, and it was the interchange of thought in the Vesey Street
+house and the opportunities afforded by the _Morning Chronicle_ that
+led Paulding's thoughts towards writing as a profession.
+
+Meantime there was much going on in the way of improvement. The new
+City Hall was erected in the park; the first free schoolhouse was
+opened; and Fulton's _Clermont_ sailed up the Hudson, the first
+successful steamboat. A commission had been appointed, too, with the
+object of directing the course of the streets, which up to that time
+had grown out of the paths left by the cows in their wanderings to
+pasture. The commissioners did their work so that, as time went on,
+the highways were laid out to form a city of strict right angles. The
+cows certainly did their part in a manner that left far more
+picturesque twists and turns than were to be found in the upper part
+laid out by the commissioners in such a scientifically uninteresting
+way.
+
+Paulding lived with William Irving in the Vesey Street house for nine
+years, and then the Irvings moved a few blocks the other side of
+Columbia College, to 287 Greenwich Street, and Paulding went with
+them. Here began the meetings of a literary set, which in a few months
+developed into the "Ancient Club of New York," with Washington, Peter,
+and William Irving, Paulding, Henry Brevoort, and Gouverneur Kemble
+leading members. Kemble owned some land in New Jersey, on which was
+located _Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, and on this account was called
+"The Patroon." From one of the informal meetings of the Ancient Club,
+Washington Irving, his brother William, and Paulding went secretly to
+Irving's house in Ann Street to discuss details of _Salmagundi_.
+Paulding wrote his share of _Salmagundi_ on the upper floor of the
+Greenwich Street house, while the lower floor was the mill of Pindar
+Cockloft, conducted by William Irving.
+
+From this house on many an evening the friends went to dine at Dyde's,
+the fascinating eating-house near the Park Theatre, then beginning a
+long career with the founders of _Salmagundi_ as a foundation for the
+memories that were to cluster around its doors, to be passed over,
+years later, to Windust's still more famous resort on almost the same
+spot.
+
+Paulding was still living with the Irving family when, in 1807, they
+went to live at No. 17 in aristocratic State Street, at the corner of
+Pearl, facing the Battery Park. Here, overlooking the blue waters of
+the bay dotted with sailboats and rowboats, and beyond to the
+stretches of Jersey shore, Paulding wrote his contributions to the
+_Analectic Magazine_, edited by Washington Irving from his home little
+more than a stone's throw away across the Bowling Green; also, _The
+Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_. Here, too,
+replying to an attack on his country, he wrote, _The United States and
+England_, a pamphlet that attracted the notice of President Madison,
+who summoned Paulding to Washington for eight years as Secretary of
+the Board of Navy Commissioners. During those eight years he wrote
+_The Backwoodsman_ his longest poem and the one which he liked best of
+all, a liking not generally shared by his readers; the second series
+of _Salmagundi_; and _Koningsmarke_.
+
+Having married Gertrude, the sister of his friend and companion
+Gouverneur Kemble, his days were moving smoothly along when the death
+of his wife's father took him again to New York and he went to live in
+what had long been the home of "The Patroon." This was a mansion of
+solid type in Whitehall Street, corner of Stone, set in the midst of a
+wide-spreading garden, a site blurred out in later days by the Produce
+Exchange. Here he lived during the fourteen years he acted as Navy
+Agent at New York, devoting his evenings to literary work, writing his
+most successful book, _The Dutchman's Fireside_, also _John Bull in
+America_, _Tales of the Good Woman_, and _Westward Ho!_ In the evening
+he went often to the Park Theatre, and came to know James H. Hackett,
+the greatest Falstaff America had seen, writing for him _The Lion of
+the West_, which Hackett acted for many years. And then after fifteen
+years in this house he left it, and with his family went to Washington
+as Secretary of the Navy.
+
+Once more, in 1841, he returned to New York, to live in Beach Street,
+then the fashionable St. John's Park neighborhood. But, his wife dying
+before he was really settled, he soon left New York and passed the
+last days of his life in Dutchess County, the region of his birth.
+
+At about the time Paulding moved into the State Street house two young
+men met one afternoon at the home of a mutual friend. One was
+studying medicine and beginning to see something more in life than a
+struggle for mere existence. He was Joseph Rodman Drake. The other,
+Fitz-Greene Halleck, was a bookkeeper and had but just come from his
+birthplace in Guilford, Connecticut. He had read much poetry and had
+written some stray verse. A few days after their meeting, the two came
+together again in the rooms where Halleck boarded in Greenwich Street,
+not half a dozen houses from the place where Washington Irving was
+living with Mrs. Brandish. The second meeting was the real start of an
+inseparable friendship which has caused them to be looked upon as the
+Orestes and Pylades of American poets.
+
+Halleck had begun his work for Jacob Barker. The warehouse where he
+was employed stands yet and can easily be found by walking down John
+Street to Burling Slip, and so on around the corner into South Street
+by the waterside. Drake ofttimes took that walk and sat there by the
+side of his friend's desk. Often, too, in the late afternoon, Halleck
+walked from there to the green that since has been called the City
+Hall Park, and sat until Drake came from his studies in the nearby
+College of Physicians and Surgeons. The college was part of Columbia,
+which lay to the west of the green. In time the city overgrew the
+college grounds so completely that those interested in remembering
+where they had been set up a tablet at West Broadway and Murray
+Street, as a reminder that they should not be entirely forgotten. From
+the park it was the wont of the youthful poets to walk along Broadway
+below Trinity Church--then the fashionable promenade,--and so on to
+the Battery, past where Irving had lived by the Bowling Green, past
+where Paulding was then living.
+
+The time came when Drake was graduated, and then there were the long
+evenings together back of his office in the store numbered 121 Bowery,
+just above Hester Street. From this house the friends made their long
+excursions across the Harlem River, far beyond the town, into the
+romantic Bronx of which Drake sang so often and so well.
+
+One night, starting from the Bowery shop, Drake took Halleck down
+Broadway into Thames Street, and there, back of the City Hotel, dined
+him in a dingy little public house, the first of many pleasant
+evenings there. It was the ale-house kept by William Reynolds, a
+genial, red-faced man who had been a grave-digger in the nearby
+Trinity Churchyard.
+
+The tavern remained a place of entertainment for close upon a hundred
+years, most of the time known as "Old Tom's," from Reynolds's
+successor. It came to be a landmark for the curious, but as the
+curious always stood outside and never by any chance went in to buy of
+what was on sale there, it went the way of all old places. To-day, if
+you turn into Thames Street, from busy Broadway, you come upon a mass
+of buildings in perpetual shade, and with a decidedly provincial air
+not at all in keeping with the up-to-date city. A walk of half a block
+brings you to Temple Street--a thoroughfare leading nowhere in
+particular, but which wise chroniclers have quarrelled over, some
+urging that it came by its name because of being close by Trinity
+Church, which is a temple of worship, and others quite as vigorously
+contending that it took its name from Charlotte Temple, who lived
+nearby. Here you find Reynolds's tavern metamorphosed into a modern
+place of business, and though the street is still quaint-appearing,
+every suggestion of romance has vanished from the tavern. Nevertheless
+the curious, who in its days of need regarded it from afar, love to
+sit in it, surrounded by modern conveniences, and tell what it was
+like "in Drake's time."
+
+Drake prospered, and after a time set up his pharmacy in the busiest
+part of town, that later grew to be the core of Newspaper Row. When
+Drake lived in Park Row, the second door from Beekman Street, he and
+Halleck hit upon the idea of the "Croaker Papers," a series of satires
+in verse, printed in the _Evening Post_, in which the poets sailed
+into the public characters of the day. This was the house where
+Halleck went to read his _Fanny_ to Drake, and made some corrections
+at his friend's suggestion before he gave it to the world.
+
+[Illustration: The Shakespeare Tavern]
+
+Around the corner from the Park Row shop, the Shakespeare Tavern was
+conducted by Thomas Hawkins Hodgkinson, the actor; a resort for the
+actors, the artists, the writers, the talkers of the town; a popular
+rendezvous quite in contrast to Reynolds's quiet inn. It stood at the
+southwest corner of Fulton and Nassau streets, a double house of
+brick, having for its sign a bust of the great poet over the door. In
+after years a tablet was set to mark the spot. Halleck tells of a
+meeting here with James Lawson, the journalist, who came to write the
+_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_.
+
+On a night when Drake and Paulding and some others gathered for a
+friendly evening there arose a discussion, argued for and against by
+all the company, as to whether or not the rivers of America were rich
+enough in legend and romance to lend themselves to poetic treatment.
+And after the talk had lengthened into the morning hours, Drake went
+to the room over his Park Row shop to put his view of the subject into
+writing. In a few days he read to Halleck the poem on which his fame
+chiefly rests, _The Culprit Fay_--a poetic fantasy illumining the
+Highlands of the Hudson.
+
+In the year 1820, Halleck sat in the Park Row house by the bedside of
+his friend, who was dying of consumption, and here, at the age of
+twenty-five, Joseph Rodman Drake passed away. Halleck followed the
+coffin to that beautiful spot beyond the Harlem that they both loved
+so well, and there by the side of the Bronx streamlet the poet Drake
+was buried. In the depth of his grief Halleck wrote the lines:
+
+     Green be the turf above thee,
+       Friend of my better days;
+     None knew thee but to love thee,
+       None named thee but to praise.
+
+And now after more than three quarters of a century the words still
+murmur their message of friendship and sorrow above Drake's grave. The
+city has sped on far beyond the little graveyard, and harsh sounds
+throb where once was only the singing of birds; but the consecrated
+spot remains, cared for year by year as well as may be in despite of
+relic-hunting vandals.
+
+Halleck outlived his friend by many long years. He gave up bookkeeping
+for Jacob Barker, and during eighteen years was the confidential
+manager of the affairs of John Jacob Astor. But he never failed to
+regret the comrade of his youth, losing with him much of his
+inspiration.
+
+[Illustration: The Jumel Mansion]
+
+Half an hour's journey from Drake's grave, on the western side of the
+Harlem River, there stands, at One Hundred and Sixtieth Street and
+Edgecombe Avenue, a house on a bluff so high above the river that it
+can be seen from afar--white in the sunlight. This is the Morris
+house, where Mary Philipse lived after she became the wife of Roger
+Morris; where Washington had his headquarters; where Madame Jumel
+lived, and where she married Aaron Burr. To the one who strolls in the
+footsteps of _litterateurs_ of a bygone day, it is, more than all, the
+house where Halleck visited, and where he wrote _Marco Bozzaris_.
+Although this was his most widely known poem, and though it was
+written five years after the death of Drake, the memory of his friend
+was like a fresh sorrow to him while he wrote. During forty odd years
+from that time he continued the gently courteous, witty talker, the
+dignified life of each gathering he attended. But, as he knew so well,
+his Muse was sorely wounded when Drake died, and the fuller poetic
+life that might have been his was buried on the green slope of the
+Bronx with his friend.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+Cooper and His Friends
+
+
+In that cheerless precinct of New York City to which still clings the
+name St. John's Park, though there has been no park there this
+half-century,--in Beach Street, a dozen or perhaps twenty steps from
+Hudson Street, there stands a house that could not fail to attract the
+attention of an observant passer-by. A brick building, its
+architectural features suggest roomy attractiveness--a condition
+little sought after in these days when the value of every inch of
+ground calls for compactness regardless of beauty of appearance. One
+looking at this building and given to sentiment might argue that it is
+strongly reminiscent of a human being who had once been vigorous and
+had made a considerable show in the world of fashion and pride, but
+who had sunk to poverty and decrepitude. For the carved window-cases
+are hacked and beaten away, the wrought-iron railings are twisted and
+rusty, the marble steps are cracked and crumbling, the high ceilings
+with their heavy and ornate mouldings are seamed and discolored, and
+the massive oaken doors are cracked by many a rusty nail driven into
+them, holding ragged and worn-out garments. Yet even in its age and
+neglect are found traces of its primal sturdy and artistic
+proportions.
+
+In the year 1821, this house was the home of James Fenimore Cooper.
+His first book, _Precaution_, had failed utterly. His second book,
+_The Spy_, had been prodigiously successful, when in this year he went
+to New York to live in what was then the fashionable district of St.
+John's Park. He was thirty-one years old, had lived at Cooperstown,
+studied at Yale, shipped as a sailor before the mast, made voyages to
+England and Spain, been appointed midshipman, and seen service on Lake
+Ontario and Lake Champlain, had resigned his commission, and had
+married Augusta de Lancey at Heathcote Hill Manor, Mamaroneck. After
+the birth of his daughter, Susan Fenimore Cooper, who became a writer
+of rural sketches, he settled down in Westchester County to live the
+life of a country gentleman. He might have remained there all his days
+but that one day he got hold of a particularly stupid book of English
+life, and was so bored by it that it forced from him the exclamation
+that he could write a better himself! Which remark being interpreted
+literally by his wife, there was nothing for the country gentleman but
+to make good his boast. So he wrote a dull and stupid story which
+even his friends had difficulty in reading to the end, and then,
+doubtless finding writing more agreeable than farming, wrote another
+that destined him evermore to a literary life.
+
+This much of Cooper's life was behind him when he moved into the Beach
+Street house. In this home he wrote _The Pioneers_, first of the
+famous Leatherstocking Tales and, too, _The Pilot_.
+
+In the New York of that day there was one place where he loved to go
+for a quiet dinner and discussion with the literary friends whom he
+quickly gathered around him. This was the chief hostelry of the day,
+the City Hotel, which stood close by where Wall Street runs into
+Broadway. It was at one of these dinners that he met James A.
+Hillhouse, who, though he had already written _The Judgment_ and was
+recognized as a poet, was then engaged in mercantile pursuits in the
+city; but was very soon to make a home in New Haven and remain there
+during the rest of his life. Hillhouse was not a regular diner with
+Cooper, but he introduced there a friend who became much more regular
+in his attendance. Samuel Woodworth was even then shouldering aside
+adversity with intermittent success. It was his habit to walk briskly
+up from his printing office at the foot of Wall Street, very much in
+the manner of a man having an imperative appointment. Four years
+before Cooper came to town, on a very hot summer day, Woodworth had
+walked in this same eager manner to his house farther up-town in Duane
+Street, and there, drinking from a pump before his door, had said:
+"I'd like to have a drink to-day from the old bucket that hung in my
+father's well." Whereupon his kindly wife hinted that the old bucket
+of his remembrance would make a good subject for a poem--a hint that
+within the hour took the form of _The Old Oaken Bucket_, a pastoral
+poem well remembered and much sung, though many another of his, many
+an operetta, and even the historical romance, _The Champion of
+Freedom_, have faded from memory.
+
+At these dinners, when Cooper sat with his friends, Woodworth and
+Morris held the first discussions of the plans for _The Mirror_, which
+was started in 1823, but from which the inconstant Woodworth soon
+retired.
+
+On more than one occasion one of the dinner party was Richard Henry
+Dana, a founder of the _North American Review_ and the friend of
+Bryant. The City Hotel was quite convenient for him, for he had made a
+sort of headquarters in the place of Wiley, the publisher, around the
+corner in Wall Street by New Street. At that time he issued from
+Wiley's shop _The Idle Man_, that literary publication which scarcely
+lived long enough to include his novels, _Tom Thornton_ and _Paul
+Felton_, and some contributions from Washington Allston and Bryant.
+
+Many a good idea came from the meetings at the City Hotel, but
+possibly none more felicitous than that of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+This remained so long in the germ that the realization seemed far off,
+but finally, in 1824, began the holding of its fortnightly meetings in
+Washington Hall--afterwards swept away to give place to the Stewart
+Building at Broadway and Reade Street. The club derived its name from
+Cooper's conceit of having candidates balloted for with bread and
+cheese, a bit of bread favoring election and cheese deciding against
+it.
+
+[Illustration: Washington Hall]
+
+As Cooper had in the main originated the club, he was the leading
+spirit around whom gathered Halleck and Bryant, Percival, Professor
+Renwick, Dr. J.W. Francis, and all the writers of the day. An
+enthusiastic member was Philip Hone, who had just retired from
+business and bought a house at 235 Broadway opposite the park, a site
+considered a good way up-town for a residence. His diary, which in
+after years led him to be called the Pepys of America, was commenced
+in this house, but the greater part was written at his residence of
+later date, at the southwest corner of Broadway and Great Jones
+Street.
+
+Gulian C. Verplanck was a member too. At the time he occupied a
+professorship in the General Theological Seminary. From one of the
+meetings he walked down Broadway and through Wall Street past the
+house, near Broad Street, where he was born, discussing with Bryant
+and Robert C. Sands an early suggestion of the _Talisman_ magazine,
+which was not to ripen into an accomplished fact for a good three
+years. On this same walk, too, he took part while Bryant and Sands
+discussed plans for the _Atlantic Monthly_, which Sands established
+the next year.
+
+But writers were not the only members of the Bread-and-Cheese Club.
+There were scholars and professional men, and often there were
+statesmen and men of national distinction as guests. But as Cooper was
+its leading spirit, when he left for his trip abroad the club went to
+pieces. He started in 1825 on his foreign travels, and at the time of
+his going was living at 345 Greenwich Street, where he had finished
+work on _The Last of the Mohicans_.
+
+In the year after his going there was a gala night at the Lafayette
+Theatre, when _The Spy_ was enacted. The Lafayette was the largest
+theatre then. Upon its site in West Broadway near Canal Street St.
+Alphonsus's Church now stands. To that performance came from up-State
+Enoch Crosby, who was said to be the original Spy, and when he
+appeared in a box with some friends the audience gave him a thunderous
+ovation.
+
+Cooper returned from abroad in 1833, having added _The Prairie_, _The
+Red Rover_, _The Water Witch_, and _The Bravo_ to his list of
+published books, and went to live in Bleecker Street, two blocks from
+Broadway, near Thompson Street. This was a select neighborhood then of
+pretty, irregular brick dwellings. The house is there yet, but the
+neighborhood is no longer elegant. Italian merchants, unkempt in
+appearance, carry on meagre and uncertain kinds of business, and
+Cooper's old house is so decorated with signs inside and out as to be
+picturesque only for its dinginess and disorder. Cooper did not live
+there long, for he soon moved to Broadway at Prince Street, into a
+house that later gave way to Niblo's Garden, and there he completed
+work on the volumes covering his stay in Europe, under the titles
+_Sketches in Switzerland_ and _Gleanings in Europe_. But he made no
+very long stay on Broadway, for he moved again, this time to St.
+Mark's Place, a few doors from Third Avenue, into an unpretentious
+brick house of three stories that is there still. There he wrote
+_Homeward Bound_ and began in earnest that fierce combat with his
+critics which was to last to the end of his days and leave many a
+regret that he had not been a more even-tempered man. From this house
+he went to Cooperstown, which became his final home.
+
+At the time that Cooper lived in New York there walked along Broadway,
+between Canal Street and the Chapel of St. Paul's, on almost every
+pleasant afternoon, a man who in appearance was a veritable Hamlet.
+His garb was a customary suit of solemn black, and his eyes sought the
+ground as he moved with pensive step. This was McDonald Clarke, whose
+eccentric appearance and acts and whose melancholy verses gave him the
+name of The Mad Poet.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831.]
+
+If Broadway was his walk of an afternoon, Park Row was his haunt by
+night; and Windust's place, a door or two below the Park Theatre
+(literally below it, for it was beneath the sidewalk), was his
+centring point.
+
+The resort of Edward Windust was not an old place, but a famous one.
+It was opened in 1824 and lasted only until 1837, when the proprietor
+thought himself cramped in space and opportunity and, moving away to
+seek a larger field, found failure. It was the actors' museum of the
+city. Its walls were lined with reminders of the stage: playbills, and
+swords that had seen the service of savage mimic wars; pictures, and
+frames of clippings, and bits of the wardrobes of kings and queens who
+had strutted their brief hour and passed away. It was the nightly
+gathering point of such actors as were in town, such writers, such
+wits, such gallant gentlemen. Edmund Kean and the Wallacks, Harry
+Placide and Cooper, Jack Scott, Mitchell, Brown, and Junius Brutus
+Booth were frequenters, with Fitz-Greene Halleck, Willis, Morris, and
+the rest, who nightly crowded the tier of stalls that ranged along one
+side of the room, making them resound with gay and brilliant talk.
+
+In Windust's, too, sat McDonald Clarke in gloomy majesty night after
+night. There he formed among many others the acquaintance of Mordecai
+M. Noah, journalist and playwright, who had been Consul at Tunis and
+who in the years to come was to start several unsuccessful papers,
+until in 1843 he was to publish the _Sunday Times and Messenger_,
+which continued for more than half a century.
+
+From Windust's McDonald Clarke often wandered out into the City Hall
+Park over the way, and sat there through many a long summer night
+dreaming over his _Elixir of Moonshine_, or, with the memory of his
+afternoon walks upon him, composing lines for his _Afara, or the
+Belles of Broadway_, and many another melancholy verse. Often he sat
+there until daybreak, then went on into Broadway again. He had a
+favorite early-morning stand on the Fulton Street side of St. Paul's
+Churchyard, and there, an hour before the town was stirring,
+soliloquized as he looked through the railings at the brown
+tombstones.
+
+On these same mornings, but a few hours later, another writer looked
+down on the same faded tombstones, for Ray Palmer was the teacher of a
+young ladies' school down Fulton Street beyond Broadway. He was young
+then, in his twenty-second year, in ill-health, and suffering under
+discouragements that would have been unendurable to a weaker-dispositioned
+man. As he looked from the school window into the churchyard he wrote
+a hymn which remained in his desk for several years, until it was
+published in quite an accidental manner by Dr. Lowell Mason, when he
+needed material for a book of church music which he had compiled. In a
+few years this hymn, _My Faith Looks Up to Thee_, was to be sung
+oftener than any other American hymn.
+
+The sights and the sounds of the busy city that were an inspiration to
+Ray Palmer always sent The Mad Poet in another direction,--on up
+Broadway to Leonard Street, turning down there two short blocks to
+Chapel Street, to the house where at that time he made his home. It
+was a dreary enough street and a dismal enough upper room, but there
+was a narrow window where the poet could look over the housetops in
+the midnight hour and watch the stars that he seemed ever to hold
+converse with. Or, if it was in the early evening, he had but to lean
+forward from his window to see the people going into the Italian Opera
+House on the next corner. The Italian Opera House had a great deal of
+attraction for The Mad Poet. Not that he went there often to attend
+the performances, but he liked to inspect it from his window height as
+though he caught a glimpse of the sorrows and disappointments
+connected with it. He had moved into the house in the year 1833--the
+year that the opera house was opened after it had been built for a
+company headed by Lorenzo Da Ponte.
+
+This Da Ponte had come to America in 1805, having a record as an
+Italian dramatist, who had furnished libretti for Mozart's operas,
+_Don Giovanni_ and _Nozze di Figaro_. He was professor in Columbia
+College when he matured an idea for establishing a home for Italian
+opera in New York, a plan which led to the building of the opera house
+near which The Mad Poet lived. It opened splendidly with the singers
+of the Cavalier di Rivafinoli, but a short season ended Lorenzo Da
+Ponte's hopes.
+
+If The Mad Poet from his housetop could have seen what the next few
+years had in store, he would have beheld the aged dramatist dying at
+his home in Spring Street, close to Broadway, his body followed from
+there by his mourning friends--Halleck and Verplanck and Woodworth and
+some few others,--followed to the churchyard surrounding the nearby
+St. Patrick's Church; he would have seen the mark above the grave
+crumbling away, leaving nothing to point the spot where Da Ponte lay
+buried with his dreams and his hopes. But no inspiration hinted any of
+these things to McDonald Clarke, and once, in speaking of Da Ponte, he
+said that there at least was a man who had lived long unrewarded but
+had attained his ambition at last.
+
+For nine years after The Mad Poet went to the Chapel Street house his
+Broadway walks continued, his dress each year growing more shabby, his
+eye more downcast, and his verse more melancholy. Then one day he was
+seen close by his favorite stand near the Churchyard of St. Paul's,
+acting so strangely that he was thought to be intoxicated. Next
+morning he awoke to find himself a prisoner in a vagrant cell, and the
+shock to his sensitive nature sent him, a madman indeed, to the
+Blackwell's Island Asylum, where in a few days he died.
+
+Years after, the author of _Glimpses of Home Life_, Emma C. Embury,
+whose home was in Brooklyn, told of a knoll in Greenwood Cemetery by
+the side of a little lake where the oak-trees shaded a modest tomb on
+which there were some lines of verse. They were lines written by
+McDonald Clarke. The tomb is there yet, still shaded by oaks that have
+grown sturdier with the passing years, and the grave by the lake is
+the grave of The Mad Poet.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+Those Who Gathered about Poe
+
+
+When New York was a much younger city than it is, when it was well
+within bounds on the lower part of the island of Manhattan, long
+before there was a thought that it would overspread the island, jump
+over a stream and go wandering up the mainland, overleap a river and
+go spreading over another island to the sea,--long before the time
+when these things came to be, there lay scattered in several
+directions on the island of Manhattan and dotting the rolling country
+land beyond, several tiny villages. These were Harlem, and Yorkville,
+and Odellville, and Bloomingdale, and Chelsea, and Greenwich. The last
+was the hamlet closest to the city. Quaint and curious, it spread its
+scattered way along the Hudson River where houses had been set up
+according to the needs and vagaries of men on roads natural and
+unplanned. When the city grew larger and finally swept around
+Greenwich Village, the roads becoming city streets, the village
+continued a labyrinthian way, where strangers wandered and were lost
+before they knew it.
+
+[Illustration: On Bloomingdale Road near 75th St. in Poe's time]
+
+In the very core of this old-time Greenwich section and at the very
+place where the streets are so tangled, so irregular, so crooked, so
+often no thoroughfare, so winding that they seem to be seeking out the
+old farmhouses which they led to in early days, there is a pretty
+little playground for children. This Hudson Park is an open spot with
+green lawns and marble walks and a tall iron fence surrounding it;
+quite a model park with everything about fresh, and new, and modern.
+It is so very new and so very neat and so very clean that one would
+not look there for old-time flavor. But curiously enough one thing
+about it seems out of tone. On the green lawn is a monument old and
+faded which, in an effort to match it with its natty surroundings, has
+been set upon a base of glistening white marble. The monument is a
+sort of key for the antiquarian, for without it this playground in its
+spick-and-span newness might not be readily identified as the old St.
+John's Burying-Ground, where once stood the accumulated tombstones of
+more than fourscore years, until they were swept away and buried as
+deep as those whose memories they marked. A new generation tramples
+in and romps over the new park, with no knowledge or thought of what
+is below the surface.
+
+The graveyard of St. John's was a quiet, restful place in a quiet,
+restful locality in the year 1837, when Edgar Allan Poe had a habit of
+wandering through it. In that year Poe lived within a few steps of the
+burial-ground in a modest wooden house that was numbered 113 Carmine
+Street. He was then in his twenty-eighth year, had published three
+volumes of poems, and had written some short stories and criticisms.
+He had but just given up the editorship of the _Southern Literary
+Messenger_ at Richmond, a position he had secured through the
+friendship of John P. Kennedy, who had been his friend in his early
+struggles in Baltimore and who was to continue a friend to him through
+all his life. In 1832 Poe had first met him, when Kennedy was writing
+_Swallow Barn_. Afterwards Kennedy wrote _Horseshoe Robinson_ and
+other books before abandoning literature for politics and, in time,
+becoming Secretary of the Navy.
+
+[Illustration: The House in Carmine Street]
+
+So Poe came to New York, and with him Virginia, his child wife, who
+was already marked a victim of consumption, and there in the Carmine
+Street house they lived. Sometimes she walked with her sombre-faced
+husband through the nearby burying-ground, but more often she sat at
+an upper window from which she could watch him on his ramble. In the
+same house lived William Gowans the bookseller of Nassau Street; and
+there Poe did work for the _New York Quarterly Review_; there also he
+finished _The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_.
+
+In another house, some little distance away but in a direct course up
+Carmine Street, in Sixth Avenue close by Waverley Place, Poe lived for
+a short time, but long enough to write _The Fall of the House of
+Usher_ and some magazine work, when he went to Philadelphia to _The
+Gentleman's Magazine_, edited by William E. Burton, the famous
+comedian. Oddly enough, when Burton died years afterwards, he found a
+resting place in the obscure St. John's Burying-Ground.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. RICHARD HENRY STODDARD.
+2. JOHN JAMES AUDUBON.
+3. WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.
+4. BAYARD TAYLOR.
+5. EDGAR ALLAN POE.
+6. ROBERT FULTON.]
+
+It was not until 1844 that Poe returned to New York, and during the
+years of his absence several writers with whom he was to become
+acquainted on his return had forged their literary way. There was Seba
+Smith, more generally known as "Major Jack Downing," from the
+humorous papers which he wrote under that name, and who about this
+time was writing the romance in verse called _Powhatan_. There was
+William Ross Wallace, the lawyer and magazine writer, who in after
+years was to be known through his poem of _The Liberty Bell_. There
+was the Congregational clergyman George B. Cheever making his way,
+having resigned his first pastorate, at Salem, Massachusetts, where he
+had been imprisoned for libel on account of his temperance sketch
+_Deacon Giles's Distillery_. There was Robert H. Messinger, known
+through his Horatian ode, _Give Me the Old_, his fame daily expanding
+in fashionable and literary circles. There was Edward Robinson,
+Professor in the Union Theological Seminary, just returned from a tour
+of exploration in Palestine with Rev. Eli Smith, publishing _Biblical
+Researches in Palestine_. And there was Isaac McLelland, whose verse
+was as good as his sportsmanship. These were some few of the men who
+were first to recognize the genius of the poet.
+
+Poe returned to New York the wiser for his experience with _The
+Gentleman's Magazine_ and with _Graham's Magazine_, but having failed
+to establish _The Stylus_, a proposed publication of his own, which
+during all his life was to be a vision of Tantalus, just beyond his
+grasp. He returned rich in experience, strong in adversity, poor in
+pocket. There was no glorious opening for him, and finally he accepted
+a sub-editorship on the _Evening Mirror_, grinding out copy for
+several hard-working hours each day.
+
+The _Evening Mirror_ was a newly started publication, but its
+interests were so entwined with others that its history stretched back
+something more than twenty years from the day when Poe first occupied
+a desk in the office. Going back these one and twenty years, the
+better to understand the atmosphere in which Poe worked, to the spring
+of 1823, the time is reached when George P. Morris and Samuel
+Woodworth joined forces and opened an office for the publication of
+the _New York Mirror_ at 163 William Street. Morris was a young man
+then, but already gave strong evidence of the decided character he was
+to develop as an eminently practical printer and successful writer of
+songs--a man of such unusual personal magnetism that well-nigh every
+man who walked towards him a stranger walked away from him a friend.
+The eight years which followed the starting of the _New York Mirror_
+saw many changes; saw Morris becoming more and more popular as a
+writer of songs; saw him publishing the memorable _Woodman, Spare
+that Tree_, that was to make his name known over the land; saw
+Woodworth withdraw from the _Mirror_, and that publication
+strengthened and starting anew when Morris drew to the enterprise
+Theodore S. Fay and Nathaniel P. Willis; saw Fay going abroad in a few
+years as Secretary of Legation at Berlin, in which city he was to live
+out most of his life.
+
+N.P. Willis was a young man, too, in those early days of his
+association with Morris. He had given up the _American Monthly
+Magazine_ at Boston to devote his energies to the _New York Mirror_.
+In the year that he became associated with Morris, 1831, he went
+abroad at a salary of ten dollars a week, hoping to add strength and
+diversity to the paper by a series of letters. In London, poor and
+struggling, he managed to introduce himself into the fashionable set
+at that time presided over by Lady Blessington, and he came to be the
+adoration of all the sentimental young ladies in that set. There was a
+daintiness about his dress, a suggestion of foppishness in the
+arrangement of his blond hair, trifles about him which suggested the
+dandy and the idler; but withal there was a terrific capacity for work
+under the smooth outside. His letters to the _Mirror_ and other papers
+did much for the refinement of literature and art, and, indirectly,
+for the manners of the times. He was in America again in 1836,
+bringing with him an English lady as a bride,--the Mary for whom the
+country place Glen Mary at Owego was named, where he wrote his
+delightful _Letters from under a Bridge_. He was again in Europe in
+1839, soon starting _The Corsair_, and back to America in 1844, to
+join his friend Morris (the _Mirror_ by this time being defunct) in
+the starting of a daily paper which took the name of the _Evening
+Mirror_. From this on Willis lived an active social-literary life,
+singing of Broadway with the same facileness as he sang of country
+scenes. He came to be a grave and patient invalid, living happily with
+his second wife as he had with his first, and ending his days at
+Idlewild,--his home on the Hudson.
+
+It was with the newly started _Evening Mirror_ that Poe became
+connected on his return from Philadelphia, and it would seem that if
+he ever had prospects bright to look forward to it was with the
+fair-minded, business-like Morris and the gentle-hearted Willis. But
+when Poe had continued with them a brief six months even that gentle
+restraint proved too much. The _Evening Mirror_ did not last long
+after his going, though this had little to do with its failure. Then
+the indefatigable Morris, with Willis, started the _Home Journal_ at
+107 Fulton Street, which continued into the twentieth century, and is
+now known under its changed title of _Town and Country_.
+
+[Illustration: Where Poe wrote "The Raven"]
+
+While Poe was working on the _Mirror_ he lived with his frail wife
+Virginia and her mother, Mrs. Clemm, in Bloomingdale Village. It was a
+village indeed then, and about the scattered houses were broad roads
+and shaded lanes and clustering trees. The house in which Poe lived
+was on a high bluff beside a country road which is now Eighty-fourth
+Street, the house standing (as the thoroughfares run now) between
+Broadway and West End Avenue. It was a plain, square, frame dwelling
+with brick chimneys reaching high above the pointed roof, kept by Mrs.
+Mary Brennan, and Poe rented rooms of her. Two windows faced towards
+the Hudson, and he could sit and looking through the trees catch a
+silvery glimpse of the river. Here he wrote _The Raven_ and _The Imp
+of the Perverse_. From here he sent _The Raven_ to the _American
+Review_ at 118 Nassau Street, where it was published over the pen name
+of "Quarles"; and he was still living here when the poem was reprinted
+in the _Evening Mirror_, for the first time over his own name.
+
+[Illustration: POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM.
+
+(From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.)
+
+Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.]
+
+It had come to be the summer of 1845 when Poe left the _Evening
+Mirror_ for the long black desk in lower Nassau Street where he helped
+Charles F. Briggs conduct the _Broadway Journal_. Briggs was the
+matter-of-fact "Harry Franco," a journalist of great ability who in
+another ten years was to edit _Putnam's Magazine_ from 10 Park Place.
+More than one of Poe's friends said that the combination of Harry
+Franco and the poet must assuredly bring forth great literary results
+and financial success. But the partnership did not work at all well.
+In a very short time Poe bought out his partner's interest through an
+arrangement with Horace Greeley and moved the office of the paper into
+Clinton Hall. But the _Broadway Journal_ under the management of Poe
+was less of a success than it had been under Briggs and Poe, and the
+poet retired from it in the first month of 1846.
+
+This Clinton Hall in which Poe had his office was a substantial
+building at the southwest corner of Nassau and Beekman streets. Temple
+Court now stands on the site. A second and a third building of the
+name have arisen in Astor Place, the second having been remodelled in
+1854 from the Astor Place Opera House, the scene of the
+Forrest-Macready riots. The present building, tall and heavy-looking,
+is the home of the Mercantile Library, as each Clinton Hall has been
+in its turn, and still retains the name first given to it in 1830,
+when Governor De Witt Clinton presented a _History of England_ as a
+nucleus for the library.
+
+About the time when Poe was with the _Broadway Journal_ he moved into
+a house not a great many steps from Broadway, in Amity Street, since
+renamed West Third Street. Here amid surroundings marked by a
+simplicity due less to simple tastes than poverty Poe lived and wrote
+by the side of the delicate wife who was wasting away before his eyes.
+Here he penned the _Philosophy of Composition_, by which he would make
+it appear that _The Raven_ was not a product of inspiration, but the
+work of calm reason and artistic construction,--a theory which no one
+seems to have accepted. Here, too, he wrote _The Literati of New
+York_, a series of papers that appeared in _Godey's Lady's Book_, and
+were the sensation of the hour in literary circles. Their criticisms
+were severe and impassioned, and one of the criticised, believing
+himself ill-treated and his writings unjustly abused, sought
+vindication. His answer entirely overlooked the libel laws and he was
+promptly sued for damages by Poe. This was Thomas Dunn English, a
+young man then twenty-four years old, who a few years before, in 1843,
+had been asked by N.P. Willis to write a poem for the _New Mirror_.
+The poem was written and sent to Willis with the suggestion that he
+either print it or tear it up as he thought best. Willis printed it,
+and though the writer came to be known as a poet, author, physician,
+lawyer, and statesman, the best known of his achievements were these
+verses of _Ben Bolt_.
+
+In the spring of 1846, when the poet's wife grew more feeble, her
+brilliant eyes more brilliant, and her pallid look more unearthly, Poe
+moved out into the country to a little village called Fordham in
+Westchester County. This was then far out from the city, a secluded
+spot with rocky heights from which a view could be had of country
+lanes and broad sweeps of meadow where farmers worked in the fields.
+Since then the open landscape has given way to the regularity of city
+streets and buildings.
+
+Not a great distance from the railroad station still stands the house
+where Poe lived; such a plain, low wooden building that those that
+have grown up around it seem to be shouldering it out of the way, and
+the widening and improving of streets have pushed it somewhat aside
+from its original position. But there the dingy little house still
+stands with its veranda, where Poe walked in the night just outside
+the sitting-room windows,--walked and dreamed out his _Eureka_. There
+are the door and the dwarf hallway. Inside, to the right, is the room,
+with its meagre furniture, much of which was purchased with the
+proceeds of the suit against Thomas Dunn English, where Poe received
+the friends who remembered him in his hours of illness, of poverty,
+and distress. In a room towards the front lay the dying wife on her
+straw bed, covered with the poet's coat and clasping the
+tortoise-shell cat closely to her wasted form. Up the stairs is the
+attic chamber, with its slanting roof, where Poe worked, with the cat
+at his elbow; where after his wife's death he penned a dirge for her
+in the exquisite _Annabel Lee_; where he wrote the first draught of
+_The Bells_, which he was to revise and complete while on his lecture
+trip to Lowell. Next to it is the room where slept Mrs. Clemm, his
+more than mother.
+
+So many memories cling to this home of Poe that those who search for
+substantial literary reminders have made it a visiting shrine, much to
+the dismay of landowners who hold to the strong belief that
+historic old houses are well enough as curiosities, but are
+inconvenient things when they stand in the way of money-making
+improvements.
+
+[Illustration: THE BATTERY IN 1830.
+
+(From a drawing by C. Burton.)]
+
+After passing through these rooms and with the memory of Poe strong
+upon you, walk away along the street remembering that in Poe's time it
+was a delightful country road. Stroll towards the Harlem River as he
+wandered many a moonlight night, his brain busy with the deep problems
+of _The Universe_. After a time you will pass on to the High Bridge,
+that carried the pipes of the Croton Aqueduct over the river,--this at
+least unchanged since his day. Walk over the path there, high above
+the water, and visit the lonely spot where the suggestion came to Poe
+for that requiem of despair, the mystic _Ulalume_.
+
+In the little wooden house at Fordham Poe lived, weak and lonely and
+poor, after the death of his wife, making daily visits to her nearby
+grave,--the grave that is there no longer. He was cared for by
+Virginia's mother for something more than two years. Then in the June
+of 1849 he left Fordham. Before the end of the year he was dead.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+At the Close of the Knickerbocker Days
+
+
+A bustling, energetic, but provincial city was New York between the
+years 1830 and 1840, the last days of the Knickerbockers. After 1840
+it changed greatly, speeding rapidly on in the making of a metropolis.
+Looking back now it is plain that the progress of enlargement went
+steadily on year by year, but then the changes came on imperceptibly
+enough.
+
+To any one who knows the great metropolis of this twentieth century,
+it will seem remarkable that Hanover Square was the place where
+merchants and jobbers most did congregate, and that the business part
+of the city (and that really meant all the town in those times) lay
+all below Canal Street. Beyond that was the country, crossed by sand
+hills, watered by many rivulets, traversed by roads that led to the
+country places of the wealthy or to popular wayside taverns. The main
+thoroughfares looked wider than they do now, for they were far less
+crowded, although there were busses, and coaches, and drays, and many
+other vehicles of a variety that would look quite odd on the streets
+of this day, and in fact anywhere except in old prints, for they
+became extinct many a day ago. There were no surface roads, no
+elevated roads, no clanging electric cars, no bicycles, no motor
+carriages, no thousand and one conveniences of comfort and confusion
+that inventive genius and modern methods have called forth. To be sure
+the first street railroad in the world had just been projected and
+the cars were about to run through the streets, but this was not as
+yet established.
+
+The architectural appearance of the city was more meagre, more
+uniform, far more picturesquely simple. There were wooden houses,
+squat and irregular, and there were brick houses, low and solid; there
+were no great towering structures to make one crane the neck to see
+the top. It was a city where provinciality stared out at every corner,
+a city which has been swept so entirely away that what is left of it
+lingers only in odd nooks and corners and back streets where even the
+oldest New Yorker has lost sight of it, and where visitors spend many
+hours seeking out old-time curiosities in the byways of the
+metropolis.
+
+[Illustration: Museum at the north end of the Park
+
+1825]
+
+The larger buildings of those days, the ones to catch the eye of a
+stranger, are all memories now, and it is a difficult matter to say
+even where they stood with any degree of certainty. There was Masonic
+Hall in Broadway and Pearl Street, with its great chamber in imitation
+of the Chapel of Henry VIII., that was quite the pride of the town,
+and indeed looked upon as the most elegant reception-room in detail
+and appointment to be found in America. Close by, on the other side of
+the way, was Contoit's Garden, a delightful resort, where could be had
+the finest of ices and cakes. Farther on the Apollo dancing-rooms were
+a Mecca for the youth of the town. Opposite the lower end of City
+Hall Park was Scudder's, the first museum in the city, the forerunner
+of Barnum's, filled to overflowing with curiosities of earth and sea
+and air. Across the way, on the opposite side of the park, was the
+Park Theatre with its broad white front and its record as the chief
+playhouse of the city, although there were hosts of admirers and
+patrons of the Old Bowery, and of the National in Leonard Street, and
+of the Olympic in Broadway, where Mitchell was established as a great
+favorite. Out beyond the city was Niblo's Garden, newly established
+and a real rural retreat; near to it, over on the Bowery Road, was the
+old Vauxhall, fast losing caste as a place of outdoor amusement. In
+Nassau Street the Middle Dutch Church still stood, its silvery bell
+sounding over the city in which Sunday was a day set apart for
+religious observance and had not come to be a day of merrymaking.
+
+[Illustration: THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830.]
+
+[Illustration: Niblo's Garden]
+
+It had come to be very near the end of the Knickerbocker days in this
+quiet city where brimstone matches and india-rubber overshoes had just
+been introduced,--indeed, it was close upon the year 1840,--when the
+Astor House was a new structure talked about all over the land as a
+wonderful palace. On the ground floor of this hotel John R. Bartlett
+kept a well stocked book-shop, and not a day but it was much visited
+by the literary folk of the town, for he was the friend of all bookish
+people. He himself was a quiet, scholarly man, and it was there in his
+shop, when his many friends left him leisure for work, that he
+arranged the greater part of his _Dictionary of Americanisms_, by
+which his name is remembered far better than by his historical
+records,--remembered when the fact that he was Secretary of State in
+Rhode Island is quite forgotten if it was ever widely known.
+
+One of the familiar figures in Bartlett's book-shop was a keen-eyed,
+spectacled man who walked with quite a noticeable limp. This was
+Charles Fenno Hoffman, a notable man of his time, whose song,
+_Sparkling and Bright_, was on everybody's tongue. Thirty-four years
+of his life were behind him, years that were full to overflowing. He
+was a New Yorker in the full meaning of the term, and many of the
+events of his active life had centred about the little book-shop. His
+birthplace was only eight blocks away, there where the structure of
+the Elevated Road throws its shadow over Greenwich Street at its
+crossing with Rector. Those interested searchers who have visited the
+house where Washington Irving boarded close by this same corner will
+find the house where Hoffman was born nearby it. Thoughts of Irving
+and Hoffman entwine themselves naturally and closely, for Hoffman's
+half-sister was that Matilda who was affianced to Irving and whose
+early death shadowed his whole life.
+
+Just around the corner from Bartlett's shop Hoffman went to school at
+Columbia College, where the present Park Place now wends its way from
+the river to Printing House Square. After leaving college he studied
+law, but soon gave up that profession to become the associate editor
+of the _American_ as the commencement of a literary career. In 1833 he
+founded the _Knickerbocker_ magazine, and while conducting it enjoyed
+the intimate fellowship of Harry Franco, William Cullen Bryant, Lewis
+Gaylord Clark, William L. Stone, the brothers Duyckinck, Frederick S.
+Cozzens, Park Benjamin, John L. Stephens, and a great many others in
+the same field of writing.
+
+All this was behind him when he became a familiar figure in Bartlett's
+shop; and more, too, for he had worked with N.P. Willis on the
+_Mirror_, and had travelled far in the wild West despite an accident
+in his youth which had crushed his leg between a boat and the wharf,
+leaving him a life-long cripple. In this western journeying he
+gathered material for _A Winter in the West_ and _Wild Scenes in
+Forest and Prairie_. He had already written _Vanderlyn_, and now in
+the book-shop was daily discussing his plans for _Grayslaer_. No hint
+came to the minds of those who listened to his witty talk in idle
+hours at the book-shop that in another ten years he would be taken
+from his last city home in Greene Street to live out the remaining
+thirty-four years of his life in the asylum at Harrisburg, Pa., a
+mental wreck.
+
+It was Hoffman who introduced Lewis Gaylord Clark to the book-shop.
+Clark had been associated with him on the _Knickerbocker_ magazine,
+and it was Clark who continued that publication for many years in the
+office on Broadway, just south of Cortlandt Street. To the office very
+often went his twin brother, Willis Gaylord Clark, editor of the
+Philadelphia _Gazette_, who contributed his now long-forgotten verse
+to his brother's magazine almost to the day of his death.
+
+It was quite natural that John L. Stephens should make Bartlett's
+book-shop a headquarters while he was in town, for Bartlett and he
+were firm friends of years' standing, and their minds ran along in
+very much the same historical groove. Many a story the famous
+traveller recounted to his friend and to the others who were gathered
+there, and his presence was eagerly looked for. He had been to Egypt
+and had written from there letters that were published in the
+_Knickerbocker_ when Hoffman was at its head. He had been to Arabia,
+to Poland, and to half a dozen other countries, and had written of his
+travels with a straightforward directness that was very much like his
+clear ringing talk. His visits to the book-shop happened years before
+he became interested in the Panama Railroad, for when this project
+came to his hand he devoted so much of himself to the building of the
+road across the Isthmus that he gave little time to writing.
+
+Another man who lingered in the book-shop more than any of the others
+was a sort of _protege_ of Clark's, since Clark had in a great
+measure discovered him. His name was Frederick S. Cozzens, a wine
+merchant, and almost every afternoon he walked from his place around
+the next corner in Vesey Street, the second block below Broadway. It
+was Clark who recognized him as a humorist long before any one else
+appreciated him. His merry conversation was a delightful incident in
+the book-shop years and years before he moved to Yonkers and was then
+a great deal talked about as the author of the _Sparrowgrass Papers_.
+
+This book-shop was a veritable treasury of literary secrets, for if
+there was to be anything new in the literary world it was sure to be
+spoken of there before it was rumored about anywhere else. In this way
+the book-shop was first to hear of the publication of that journal of
+books and opinions, _Arcturus_, for Evert A. Duyckinck was one of the
+_habitues_ there. This is the author who, seven years later, with his
+brother George was to start the publication of _The Literary World_;
+and these are the brothers Duyckinck who while editing this
+publication collected material and wrote their _Encyclopaedia of
+American Literature_, which gave them fame long after both were dead.
+
+The publication of literary periodicals was in the air that year of
+1840, and the little book-shop, being a literary world unto itself,
+heard of all of them in turn before public announcement was made.
+James Aldrich, who four years before had given up a prosperous
+business for a writer's career, projected his _Literary Gazette_, in
+which most of his poems afterwards appeared; and Park Benjamin, rather
+a newcomer in the town, it having been only three years since he
+transferred his _New England Magazine_ to New York under the title of
+the _American Monthly Magazine_, the same year established _Our New
+World_. He was a pleasant, affable man, and his companions at
+Bartlett's place thought much of the author of _The Old Sexton_.
+
+William Cullen Bryant lived in New York through these last days of
+Knickerbocker life and still lived there when these times were looked
+back upon as a period of great good-fellowship. He arrived in the city
+a young man, scarcely known, but he lived to be old, still a citizen,
+so entwined with the literary, social, and business interests that
+innumerable places can be pointed out to-day as bearing closely upon
+the poet's life and suggesting many reminders of himself and his work.
+
+In the far down-town, in Broadway at the Pine Street corner, these
+memories start. At that corner, in a building long gone now, when
+Bryant was quite a stranger in the city, he edited the _New York
+Review and Athenaeum_, in which his own poem, _Death of the Flowers_,
+was published, and in which Halleck's _Marco Bozzaris_ first appeared.
+In his office there Bryant often talked with Percival and with
+Hillhouse, and there he discussed with Verplanck and Sands what manner
+of verse he would contribute to the newly started _Talisman_ magazine.
+
+Up Broadway a little farther, at the Fulton Street corner, is the
+publication office of the _Evening Post_, a building which more than
+any other in New York should call forth thoughts of Bryant, for he was
+the editor of that newspaper for two-and-fifty years. When he joined
+the staff in 1826, in two years succeeding Coleman as editor and
+remaining so until his death, the _Evening Post_ had its office in
+William Street, near Pine. But Bryant spent many years of his
+editorial life in the Broadway building, and one of its attractions,
+now pointed out to all visitors, is the poet's window on an upper
+floor where he sat at his desk, that was always stacked high and
+negligently with all manner of useless papers and rejected
+manuscripts, and looked over the city to the south as he worked.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET, LOOKING
+TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800.]
+
+Standing beside this window there are memories of other men than
+Bryant to be called up, for here remembrance of many of his associates
+comes vividly to mind. There was William Leggett, the poet's friend
+and business companion, the brilliant journalist who wrote _Tales of a
+Country Schoolmaster_, and who worked beside Bryant from 1829 to 1836.
+With thoughts of him come those of Parke Godwin, who joined the
+_Evening Post_ staff the year after Leggett left it, who as long as
+the poet lived was his close friend, and who, marrying Bryant's
+daughter Fanny, wove closer year by year the relations that bound
+them. There are memories, too, of John Bigelow, who occupied an
+editorial chair on the _Post_ for a dozen years after 1849.
+
+Going still farther up Broadway in search of Bryant reminders, you
+walk past the Post-Office and over the stretch of pavement made
+historic by the personal encounter between the poet and William L.
+Stone. This happened in 1831, and Stone, then editor of the
+_Commercial Advertiser_, was not at all friendly to Bryant. The two
+met there on the parkside, just opposite where Philip Hone lived, and
+Hone, looking from his window, saw the encounter. Sitting down he
+immediately wrote of it in the diary which is such a perfect
+reflection of the city's history during the first half of the
+nineteenth century.
+
+Those were the days when Stone was collecting his information
+concerning the Indians which he afterwards utilized to such advantage
+in _The Life of Joseph Brant_, _The Life of Red Jacket_, and kindred
+books.
+
+Keeping on up Broadway to Leonard Street, thence over across town
+three blocks west to 92 Hudson Street, the stroller comes to a
+warehouse that has been reared above the home where Bryant lived when
+he became editor of the _Evening Post_ and from which he often walked
+around the corner to 345 Greenwich Street to make an evening call on
+his near neighbor and friend J. Fenimore Cooper.
+
+On a little farther, up Varick Street this time, past the old Chapel
+of St. John's, lingering in its stately age quiet and dignified amid
+the unwholesome neighbors that have grown up around it. On the very
+next block, close by Canal Street, there is a red brick house with
+stone steps, and here Bryant lived after his removal from Hudson
+Street.
+
+This same Varick Street leads straight north for half a mile until it
+touches Carmine Street, and in the second block of that thoroughfare
+is the house of age-worn brick that was the poet's "home in Carmine
+Street," of which he spoke so often and so affectionately.
+
+From this point, a walk due east straight across town to the Bowery is
+as direct a route as could be found to the house where Bryant boarded
+in Fourth Street near the Bowery. It was here he entertained the
+friendly Unitarian clergyman, Orville Dewey, and discussed poetry with
+him. Here too he began the acquaintance with his fellow-lodger, Parke
+Godwin, without a thought that Godwin would one day be his son-in-law,
+without a thought that they would walk side by side through a literary
+life for close upon half a century.
+
+Still on up-town, this time to Union Square. Between that green spot
+and Irving Place in Fifteenth Street, you come upon the home of the
+Century Club in its early days, when it was the chief place in America
+for the entertainment of men of letters. This club, founded by Bryant,
+was presided over at various times by Bancroft, Verplanck, and men
+whose names are equally well remembered. Bryant was the president when
+he died. The club now has a sumptuous home in Forty-third Street near
+Fifth Avenue.
+
+Last home of all of Bryant in New York is the brownstone house next to
+the College of St. Francis Xavier, in Sixteenth Street. Here he lived
+during the last years of his life when he was not passing the long
+spring and summer months at his well-beloved Cedarmere at Roslyn, Long
+Island, which had been his favorite abiding place since 1843. It was
+in this Sixteenth Street house that he wrote his last lines of
+verse--on the birthday of Washington; it was here that he died.
+
+One more structure not a great distance away calls up strongly the
+memory of Bryant. In Fourth Avenue at Twentieth Street is picturesque
+All Souls' Church, which has been there since 1855. Built of brick
+trimmed with Caen stone, planned in the form of a Greek cross, it was
+the first example of the Byzantine style of architecture in America.
+It was to have a tall, square, tower-like steeple, but this was never
+built. To this church the body of Bryant was taken, and there in the
+presence of all literary New York, and while the whole city mourned,
+Dr. Bellows, who had been his long-time friend, preached his funeral
+sermon.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+Half a Century Ago
+
+
+Like many a landed estate, like many a quiet village, like many a
+battle-ground, like many a winding and historic road, like so many
+other places of interest of which the island of Manhattan has been the
+scene in days agone--Minniesland is not easy to locate. Relentlessly
+and remorselessly the great masses of brick and mortar have forged
+ahead in their furtherance of the city's growth, seeking a level as
+they spread, dominating the island, levelling the hills, and
+stretching over valleys until the surface of the land is altered
+beyond all knowing. Minniesland is one of the almost buried districts
+of the great city. Its last surviving relic, a square ornamental
+structure, is the one token that it ever existed. Now that the town
+has surrounded this building, and streets have cut through and
+mutilated the first plan of the district, this house may be found
+standing where One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street slopes down to the
+Hudson River. Enter it; pass through its ancient halls, and, standing
+on its porch, blot from the mind the spot as it is and reconstruct it
+as it was half a century ago.
+
+Fifty years ago the city was far away there to the south, and this
+house, miles and miles away up-country, was at the edge of a forest
+stretching down the hillside to the river. There were other farmhouses
+around it. To the north was the mansion where Colonel Morris had lived
+before the Revolution; where Madame Jumel in later days had married
+Aaron Burr. To the south was the square frame building, close by a
+clump of thirteen trees, where Alexander Hamilton had lived and where
+his widow stayed on after his death.
+
+Forgetting for a moment these old-time surroundings of the house by
+the forest edge, turn to the building itself, and imagine at the
+window a man sitting. He has long hair and clear blue eyes. He is
+painting at a small easel and working in quite a wonderful manner, for
+he is ambidextrous. He stops in his work and looks over the trees
+towards the Hudson. If that ever-moving river recalls to him his past
+life, John James Audubon, ornithologist, is reviewing a strange and
+adventurous career in many countries, full of losses, of suffering, of
+changes, of perils. He thinks of himself as a boy wandering through
+the dense, hot wilds of San Domingo; as a youth hard at his art
+studies in Paris under the master David; as a man at his father's
+country place on the Schuylkill, failing utterly and absolutely when
+he goes into business, and letting his father's fortune slip away from
+his nerveless grasp. He remembers, too, his marriage, and how his wife
+followed his restless career with unchanging love and remained always
+a balance-wheel to his impetuosity. He recalls how, through all the
+changes of that early and unsettled life, the naturalist-love born in
+him when he roamed the tropical home of his youth was always strongest
+in his nature, and was constantly cropping out in his mania for
+collecting beautiful things that were quite worthless from a
+commercial point of view, just as it was shown in his personal
+appearance; for his manner of dressing, always with his hair falling
+over his shoulders, marked him as a man regardless of conventionality,
+a man so bound within the circle of his own thoughts that he had
+little time or inclination to peek out and see which way the world was
+moving.
+
+[Illustration: Audubon's Home
+
+156th St. and N. River]
+
+Audubon had passed through the hardest struggles of his life, had
+travelled in England, in France, in Scotland, arranging for the
+publication of his bird pictures, that remarkable work which set his
+memory apart; he had succeeded in his life's object, and at the close
+of 1840 had come here to this forest hillside by the Hudson, built
+the house on the estate Minniesland, named in honor of his wife, made
+it a luxurious abode, and there gathered his friends about him.
+
+With this home of Audubon there is associated a memory of the early
+days of the telegraph. When Samuel F.B. Morse built the first
+telegraph line to Philadelphia, he had it strung across the river from
+Fort Lee to the basement of Audubon's house, and there he received the
+first telegraphic message ever sent to the island of Manhattan. Here
+Audubon lived, wrote, and painted until even his rugged strength was
+worn out. He worked until those clever ambidextrous hands lost the
+cunning to work out the forms his active brain could still conceive.
+The day came, in 1851, when he died, fortunately before any great
+change had come over the beauties of Minniesland. The peacefulness of
+Trinity Cemetery, which takes in part of the Audubon farm, is still
+faintly reminiscent of the scene of the ornithologist's later life,
+and there, close by the old house, is the grave of Audubon, and upon
+his tomb are sculptured the birds he loved so well, now keeping watch
+over him.
+
+[Illustration: Clement C. Moore's House
+
+Chelsea]
+
+While Audubon worked in his out-of-town retreat, another scholar and
+writer lived farther down the island towards the city. Clement C.
+Moore lived in a little district of his own called Chelsea Village,
+now merged into the city by so deft a laying out of streets that there
+is little irregularity at the point where town and village met. A bit
+of the old village remains exactly as it was in the General
+Theological Seminary, and the block on which it stands, Twentieth to
+Twenty-first streets, Ninth and Tenth avenues, is still called Chelsea
+Square. Clement C. Moore inherited from his father, Bishop Benjamin
+Moore, a large tract of land along the river near the present Chelsea
+Square, and gave the land on which the seminary was built to that
+institution. He himself lived in a house which his father had occupied
+before him and which stood on the line of the present Twenty-third
+Street on the block between Ninth and Tenth avenues. It was a very old
+building, renowned for the fact that General Washington had stopped
+there one afternoon when he had his headquarters in the city. Clement
+C. Moore was a professor in the General Theological Seminary, and
+while there compiled the first Greek and Hebrew lexicons ever
+published in this country. But it is not by reason of his learned
+books or his philanthropy that his name is best recalled, but by a
+poem which he wrote for his children and of which the world at large
+might never have known but that it was sent without his knowledge and
+published in an up-State paper. This poem, the Christmas classic of
+_The Visit of St. Nicholas_, begins with "'T was the night before
+Christmas," and its simple yet merry jingle and delightful
+word-pictures have endeared it to all children since his time and will
+endure to please many more to come.
+
+All that there was of literary New York half a century ago centred
+about Anne C. Lynch. She established a circle, a gathering which
+increased or fell off in numbers as men and women of brains came and
+went. This was the first near approach to a _salon_ in this country.
+In the early days of her coming to the city, Miss Lynch lived in a
+neat-appearing brick house in Waverly Place, just off Washington
+Square. She moved elsewhere from time to time, the literary coterie
+moving about as she moved. At the height of her success, in 1855, she
+married the Italian educator, Vincenzo Botta, then in his second year
+in New York and occupying a professorship of Italian literature in the
+University of New York. The receptions of Mrs. Botta flourished and
+were as popular as had been those of Miss Lynch. Her writings, too,
+went on, and her most widely known work, the material for which she
+gathered during her intimate personal association with many authors,
+the _Handbook of Universal Literature_, was written when she lived in
+Thirty-seventh Street, a few doors west of Fifth Avenue.
+
+In the early years of Anne C. Lynch's receptions, one of her intimates
+was Caroline M. Kirkland, the friend of Bayard Taylor. Mrs. Kirkland,
+who had just returned after a residence in Michigan, sought her advice
+before she published _Forest Life_, which was the second of her
+descriptions of the sparsely settled region where she had spent three
+years of her life. The intimacy between these two continued for years,
+indeed until Mrs. Kirkland died, in 1864, stricken with paralysis
+while under the strain of managing a great sanitary fair during the
+Civil War.
+
+Through Mrs. Kirkland, Lydia M. Child was introduced at the Lynch
+receptions, when she was associated with her husband in conducting the
+_National Anti-Slavery Standard_. She had been a writer since her
+youth, having published her first book, _Hobomok_, in 1821. Her works
+had been much read, but lost much of their popularity after she
+published the first anti-slavery book in America, in 1833, under the
+title _An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_. She
+ever remained prominent as an abolitionist, but because of her
+opinions lost caste as a writer of novels. But Miss Lynch cared little
+what opinions any one held so long as they really had opinions and
+would stand by them, and Mrs. Child was welcomed to her home until she
+left the city, in 1844, to spend the rest of her life in Wayland,
+Massachusetts.
+
+Very often Edgar Allan Poe attended the Lynch receptions, taking with
+him his delicate wife, who seemed to get better for the moment when
+she saw her husband the centre of a notable gathering. For even here
+Poe had quite a following of his own. It was on one of these evenings
+that he gave it as his opinion that _The Sinless Child_ was one of the
+strongest long poems ever produced in America. This poem was just
+then making a great stir and on this special evening had been the
+subject of much discussion. The author was present, as she usually was
+where writers congregated, for the beautiful and witty Elizabeth Oakes
+Smith carried enthusiasm and inspiration wherever she went. She found
+time to form part of many a circle, even though her days were well
+filled, for she assisted her husband, "Major Jack Downing," in his
+editorial work. For many a year before she finally retired to
+Hollywood, South Carolina, she held her place as the first and only
+woman lecturer in America.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+1. W.D. HOWELLS.
+2. J.G. HOLLAND.
+3. RICHARD GRANT WHITE.
+4. BRANDER MATTHEWS.
+5. WILLIAM WINTER.
+
+From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble; courtesy of Mr. W.E.
+Benjamin.]
+
+Another dear friend of Poe's might usually be found at these
+receptions. "Estella" Lewis, the poet, lived in Brooklyn and held
+there quite a court of clever people. The time came when she was,
+indeed, a friend in need to Poe in his time of dire necessity at
+Fordham. It was at her Brooklyn home that he read _The Raven_ before
+it was published, and Estella Lewis was the last friend he visited
+before he left New York on the journey south which ended in his death.
+
+On the "Poe nights," too, Ann S. Stephens was usually to be found at
+Miss Lynch's. She became a much-read novelist, writing _Fashion and
+Famine_ and _Mary Derwent_. On these nights, too, might be seen
+Margaret Fuller, the transcendentalist. She had left her Massachusetts
+home to take her place with Horace Greeley as literary editor of the
+_Tribune_, and between whiles devoted herself to charitable work in an
+effort to better the social condition of the poor of the metropolis.
+During most of her stay she lived in a locality much changed since her
+time, near where Forty-ninth Street touches the East River. A
+picturesque spot it was, overlooking the green stretches of
+Blackwell's Island, in the midst of suburban life. Her stay in New
+York was short. After a year or so she went to Europe and in Italy
+married the Marquis Ossoli. She was on her way back to America, in
+1850, a passenger in the merchantman _Elizabeth_, when the ship was
+wrecked off Fire Island and she perished with it.
+
+To this group of writers also belongs Frances Sargent Osgood. While,
+somewhere about the year 1846, the country was ringing with her
+praise, she was living the secluded life of an invalid, with her
+husband, in what was then becoming a fashionable neighborhood, 18 East
+Fourteenth Street. Once, in 1845, she had met Poe, had been instantly
+attracted by him, and became thereafter his staunch admirer,
+expressing her opinion persistently whenever opportunity offered. He,
+on his part, appreciated her poetic genius, and more than once
+referred to the scrupulous taste, faultless style, and magical grace
+of her verse. And several of his poems are addressed directly to her.
+
+There was a young man named Richard Henry Stoddard who frequented the
+Lynch receptions. He had worked for six years in a foundry learning
+the trade of iron moulder, and writing poetry as he worked. By the
+year 1848 he was beginning to make a name for himself, and his first
+volume of poems, _Footnotes_, had just been published. At Miss Lynch's
+house he met Miss Elizabeth Barstow, herself a poet, and some time
+later visited her at her home in Mattapoisett. This led to their
+marriage. Early in the year of his meeting with Miss Barstow, Stoddard
+made the acquaintance of Bayard Taylor. Taylor had already travelled
+on foot over Europe, had crystallized the results of these travels in
+_Views Afoot_, and was then working under Greeley on the _Tribune_, as
+one of the several editors. Side by side with him worked that
+pure-hearted and thoughtful man who had been the instigator and
+supporter of the Brook Farm experiment, George Ripley, who wrote the
+_Tribune's_ book criticisms.
+
+_Views Afoot_ was the most popular book of the day when Stoddard
+walked into the _Tribune_ office and introduced himself to the author,
+finding him very hard at work in a little pen of a room. This was the
+start of a friendship which lasted for thirty years, and was only
+broken in upon by death.
+
+A few days after, Stoddard called upon Taylor, who then lived in
+Murray Street, a few steps from Broadway. Charles Fenno Hoffman, who
+occupied rooms in the same building, was then beginning to show signs
+of the mental breakdown which was to cloud the last thirty-four years
+of his life. But Hoffman was prosperous and occupied luxurious
+quarters on the ground floor, while Taylor, despite the popularity of
+his book, led a life of hard work and struggle. He was ill paid for
+his services on the _Tribune_, as Greeley did not believe in high
+salaries, and he lived up four flights of stairs in a sort of
+two-roomed attic. There Stoddard went almost every Saturday after his
+labors at the iron foundry, and there the friendship strengthened week
+by week; there Taylor taught Stoddard to smoke; there they discussed
+books and writers, and there wrote poetry together. There Taylor wrote
+_Kubleh_ and _Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, and, too, the song that won
+for him a prize when Barnum invited the entire country to a
+competition in writing a song for Jenny Lind. Taylor was visited by a
+great many friends, and with them the youthful Stoddard became
+acquainted. Sometimes to the house in Murray Street came Rufus W.
+Griswold, author of _Poets and Poetry of America_, _Prose Writers of
+America_, and kindred works. He had been one of Taylor's early
+advisers. The diplomatist and playwright, George H. Boker, often made
+one of the party at this time, when his tragedy, _Calaynos_, was being
+acted with great success at Sadlers's Wells Theatre in England.
+Another visitor was Richard Kimball, the lawyer-author, then
+enthusiastically putting the finishing touches to _St. Leger_.
+
+These days of changing fortunes were the most romantic of Taylor's
+career. Many other places in the city are associated with him, one a
+house near Washington Square, where he lived for some years and wrote
+among other things the _Poems of the Orient_. His last city home was
+at 142 East Eighteenth Street. There he wrote _Deukalion_, and from
+there he started out, after being dined and feted, on his mission as
+United States Minister to Germany. In England he met Carlyle. In Paris
+he had a "queer midnight supper" with Victor Hugo. In Germany, though
+he was then quite an ill man, he threw himself into official business
+with an energy that his constitution, worn by years of persistent hard
+work, would not warrant. Before the end of the year, the friends in
+America who had wished him farewell in April, congratulating him that
+he had attained an honor that he prized, knew that he lay dead in
+Berlin.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Two Famous Meeting-Places
+
+
+Looking backward to the days before the Civil War is to bring into
+review a host of men who then walked through the city in which time
+has wrought so many changes, and to bring to the mind's eye familiar
+streets, but so altered that they seem like unknown highways.
+
+There was the Battery, with its old-time appearance, when the green
+grass of summer was not cast into deep and continual shade by an
+overhanging device of modern travel, and when its broad walk was a
+promenade, the like and popularity of which was not to be found
+elsewhere. There stood squat Castle Garden, half in the water and half
+on the land, of nondescript style of architecture, suggesting a means
+of defence against an invading force and giving cause for wonder as to
+how it ever came by the flowery half of its name.
+
+Wandering swiftly through the lower end of the town, memory recalls
+old houses whose begrimed fronts bore the markings of a good hundred
+years. There, by the Bowling Green, was where Washington and Putnam
+had their headquarters. Farther up-town a hotel arose where Franconi's
+Hippodrome had been. Still farther along was Murray Hill, where there
+was just enough elevation of land to account in a measure for its
+name. Still farther on were country places beyond the town--beyond the
+town then, but now come to be the very heart's core of the metropolis.
+
+But of all the points of interest none comes fresher to the mind than
+Broadway. And though they have all changed, some swept away, some
+freshened up, others reconstructed into modern ways and made to keep
+pace with the progress of the passing days, no change or series of
+changes have brought about such complete renewal, if the reminiscent
+eye of the mind is to be believed, as has come to Broadway. Blotting
+out for the moment the city's chief canyon of travel as it is to-day,
+with its brobdingnagian structures, and its sights and sounds of
+business and pleasure and enterprise, let the highway of old take its
+place. As far back as fifty years ago, residences were gradually
+metamorphosed into business hives, but they managed to retain much of
+their conservative appearance for a long time, as though a battle were
+being waged as to whether Broadway should be a place of homes or a
+business thoroughfare. Trees by the curb line waved their branches in
+angry protest against commercial encroachments and in opposition to
+great glaring signs that blurted out business announcements in a
+bold-faced manner, that argued they had come to stay. While the
+Broadway of to-day gives the impression of narrowness because of the
+height of the sky-scrapers that border it, it then looked exceedingly
+wide. It was never a quiet street, for a continual procession of
+omnibuses and other vehicles on business and pleasure bent streamed
+along it. Among the popular resorts at which they often stopped was
+Charles Pfaff's, where beer was sold. There of an evening met the
+literary Bohemians of the city, in the days when Bohemia really
+existed and before the word had well-nigh lost significance and
+respect. They were gifted men with great power of intellect, who
+spoke without fear and without favor and whose every word expressed a
+thought. They were real men and they made the world a real place, a
+place without affectation, without pretence, without show, without
+need of applause, and without undue cringing to mere conventional
+forms. These were the characteristics of the Bohemians, and Bohemia
+was wherever two or three of them were gathered together. Bohemia was
+the atmosphere they carried with them, and whether upon the streets or
+in Pfaff's cellar they were at home. Pfaff's happening to be a
+convenient gathering-place, and beer happening to be the popular brew
+with most of them, they gathered there.
+
+It is a tradition that the place came into favor through the personal
+efforts of the energetic Henry Clapp. He was attracted to it, so the
+tradition runs, soon after he started the _Saturday Press_ in 1858,
+that lively publication, so brilliant while it lasted, so soon to die,
+and at its death having pasted on its outer door an announcement which
+read: "This paper is discontinued for want of funds, which by a
+coincidence is precisely the reason for which it was started." Whether
+it is true or not that Clapp was the first to call attention to the
+resort that came to be the meeting-place of the Bohemians, matters
+little. It grew to be such a meeting-place, and it is quite true that
+the members of the staff of the _Saturday Press_ did more than any one
+else to give it a name that has lived through the years.
+
+It is hard to locate Pfaff's place now. Go to look for it on the east
+side of Broadway, above Bleecker Street three or four doors, and you
+will be disappointed, for there is nothing to locate--just a
+conventional business house. Take an idle hour and picture it in
+memory; that will be better. Thinking of it now it is quite natural to
+contrast it with modern eating- and drinking-houses, famous for their
+mirror-lined walls, richly carved appointments, carpeted floors, and
+flashing electric lights. Pfaff's was a hole beneath the surface of
+the street, ill-lighted, ill-ventilated, ill-kept. But it is far
+better to read George Arnold's poem embodying the spirit of the
+cellar, and recording how the company was "very merry at Pfaff's."
+This poet was one of the merry company in the days when he wrote
+regularly for the columns of _Vanity Fair_. He has himself said that
+some of the poems were written in the late hours after an evening
+spent in the underground Broadway resort with Fitz-Hugh Ludlow, with
+Mortimer Thomson, the famous "Q. K. Philander Doesticks," and a score
+of like writers. It was Arnold, too, who caused an hour of sadness
+when he took there the story of the death of Henry W. Herbert, who was
+well known to all the habitues. They all knew his life's story; they
+had heard him tell of his father, the Dean of Manchester and cousin to
+the Earl of Carnarvon; they had heard him tell how he had come to New
+York from London, how he had taught in the school in Beaver Street
+near Whitehall, and how in that little school he had partly written
+his historical romance _Cromwell_, and how he had mapped out some of
+the others that followed it. They knew, too, how he had, under the
+name of "Frank Forester," produced such books as _American Game in its
+Season_, _The Horse and Horsemanship in North America_, and become
+famous by novel-writing. He was the first to introduce sports of the
+field into fiction in America. Some of his comrades knew the
+unhappiness that had crept into his life, but even his dearest friends
+were not prepared for the news which Arnold brought one day, that
+"Frank Forester" had died by his own hand in a room on the second
+floor of the Stevens House, there in Broadway by the Bowling Green,
+not more than the throw of a stone from the place where, in his early
+days in New York, he had taught school.
+
+Another friend of George Arnold's, who sometimes spent hours with him
+at Pfaff's, was George Farrar Browne, but few will remember him by
+this name, while many will recall that which he made famous, Artemus
+Ward. He had passed his apprenticeship as a printer and reporter, had
+made the country ring with the name of the lively but illiterate
+showman, and was in New York trying to carry _Vanity Fair_ to
+success--a task which he could not accomplish.
+
+Another of the Pfaff company was Thomas Bailey Aldrich. This was at a
+time when he had editorial charge of the _Saturday Press_ after he had
+come from Portsmouth and served three years at his desk in the
+commission house of his rich uncle. Working over the books of the
+firm, his mind was often busy with themes outside of the commission
+house, all tending towards a literary career.
+
+Another lounger at Pfaff's whose name has become famous in the world
+of letters was William Winter, who was sometimes a visitor. Howells
+went there on his first visit to New York and dined with Walt Whitman,
+and there were others--Bayard Taylor and Stedman among them.
+
+[Illustration: The University Building]
+
+It was only a few minutes' walk from Pfaff's to Washington Square,
+and there could be found the substantial-appearing University
+building, where Theodore Winthrop had his office and where he wrote
+_Cecil Dreeme_ and _John Brent_. From that gloomy building he was
+called to the war, and to his home there friends brought the details
+of his death--shot through the heart while rallying his men in an
+attack which he had helped to plan at the action of Big Bethel in
+June, 1861. At the time of his death he was scarcely known as a
+writer, and it was not until the publication of _Cecil Dreeme_ that
+the world realized that it had lost an entertaining story-teller as
+well as a brave soldier when Winthrop fell.
+
+Among others who served in the Seventh Regiment of New York, of which
+Theodore Winthrop was a member, was Fitz-James O'Brien, the erratic
+and brilliant journalist, whose tale of _The Diamond Lens_ was his
+best contribution to the literature of the day. The only literary man
+of the Seventh to return to New York was O'Brien's friend, Charles
+Graham Halpine, who resigned, and lived to make his name famous by his
+humorous sketches of army life supposed to have been penned by
+"Private Miles O'Reilly."
+
+The name of Winthrop naturally suggests the name of Dr. John W.
+Draper, who was associated with the University of New York for more
+than thirty years. His technical writings made his name known over the
+world, and he spent many years of his life in the dingy old University
+building working on a _History of Intellectual Development in Europe_.
+
+[Illustration: The Studio Building in West 70th St.]
+
+Fitz-James O'Brien has told of how he was once sent by a newspaper to
+see Henry T. Tuckerman, in a big brown building in Tenth Street. This
+studio building, just east of Sixth Avenue, is there yet, and the room
+on the second floor where O'Brien had his talk with the scholarly
+essayist and critic may be seen. At that time Tuckerman was writing
+_The Criterion; or, The Test of Talk about Familiar Things_. In this
+large room overlooking the street it was his custom on Sunday evenings
+to entertain his literary friends.
+
+Another home where there were Sunday-evening gatherings for many years
+was that of Alice and Phoebe Cary. This house, one of the few
+residences remaining in a neighborhood otherwise given up to business
+structures to-day, is numbered 53 on East Twentieth Street. Here the
+Carys lived when they made their home in this city, coming from their
+Ohio birthplace to a wider field of activity. You can walk now into
+the little parlor where the gatherings were held. You can go into the
+room above, where Phoebe worked--when she found time; for in the
+joint housekeeping of the sisters Phoebe often said that she had to
+be the housekeeper before she could be the poet. In that room she
+wrote, after coming from church one Sunday, the hymn which has made
+her name famous and well-beloved, _Nearer My Home_.
+
+[Illustration: 53 EAST 20th St.]
+
+There on the same floor was the favorite work-corner of Alice, and
+sitting close by the window, where she could look out into the street,
+she wrote many of her poems of memory and of domestic affection. In
+this room, too, she died.
+
+To recite the names of those Sunday-evening callers would be to recall
+all the writers in the city at that time, and to mention all those
+prominent in the world of letters who came from out of town. James
+Parton was often one of the company, in the days when he was arranging
+the material for his _Life of Horace Greeley_, material gathered from
+those who had known the great editor during his early days in New
+Hampshire and Vermont. Greeley himself dropped in occasionally, and
+also another member of the _Tribune_ staff, Richard Hildreth, the
+writer from Massachusetts, who had been associate editor of the Boston
+_Atlas_ and who in after years was United States Consul at Trieste.
+
+Herman Melville was invited to the Twentieth Street house at the time
+when he was at work on his _Battle Pieces_, and could look back on
+years of adventure by land and by sea, and on the hardships that had
+supplied him with the material from which to write so much that was
+odd and interesting. At one of these Sunday-night receptions, at which
+Alice Cary introduced him first, Melville told the company, and told
+it far better than he had ever written anything (at least so one of
+his hearers has recorded), the story of that life of trial and
+adventure. He began at the beginning, telling of his boyhood in New
+York, of his shipping as a common sailor, and of his youthful
+wanderings in London and Liverpool. In true sailor fashion, and with
+picturesque detail, he spun the tale of his eighteen months' cruise to
+the sperm fisheries in the Pacific, and held his hearers' close
+attention while he related the coarse brutality of his captain, who
+had forced him to desert at the Marquesas Islands. Then he traced his
+wanderings with his one companion through the trackless forest on the
+island of Nukahiva and of his capture by the Typee cannibals. He
+related how there was little hope in his heart that he could ever
+escape, but that he still held tight to life and his courage did not
+desert him; how with the thought of death before him by night and by
+day he yet hourly studied the strange life about him and garnered
+those facts and fancies which he afterwards used to such advantage in
+his successful _Typee_. It was a thrilling tale to listen to, in
+strange contrast to his humdrum later life when he was an employee of
+the New York Custom House. When you go to see the home of the Cary
+sisters, walk on a few blocks to East Twenty-sixth Street, and there
+see the house numbered 104. On this site stood Melville's house, where
+he lived for many years and where, when he had come to be an old man,
+he died.
+
+Mary L. Booth was another visitor to the home of the Cary sisters, and
+with them she talked over a great many details of her _History of the
+City of New York_, which she was at that time energetically engaged
+upon. And there this future editor of _Harper's Bazar_ met Martha J.
+Lamb when Mrs. Lamb came to the city from Chicago. A talk between the
+two had much to do with directing Mrs. Lamb's thought into historical
+lines, and led to her publishing, some seventeen years later, her
+_History of New York_, and to her assuming, in 1883, the editorship of
+the _Magazine of American History_. Mary L. Booth used to tell very
+amusingly how she had once met Samuel G. Goodrich, then famous as
+"Peter Parley," at the little house in Twentieth Street, and how
+disappointed she had been in listening to his talk and not finding it
+as impressive as it should have been as coming from the author and
+editor of more than one hundred and fifty volumes. This incident
+occurred within a year or two of "Peter Parley's" death.
+
+That popular writer of juvenile tales, Alice Haven, was also a visitor
+of the Cary sisters. Her early life had been spent in Philadelphia,
+where she had been married to J.C. Neal, but after his death she had
+removed to New York and made her home there. She was very much
+interested in the work of St. Luke's Hospital, which was not a great
+distance away, and often came to talk with Phoebe Cary about that
+institution. Miss Cary herself was interested in it because of her
+regard for its founder, Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg, who had
+written a hymn that was a great favorite of hers, _I Would Not Live
+Alway_. Dr. Muhlenberg was the rector of the Church of the Holy
+Communion, and in 1846 on St. Luke's Day after his sermon he suggested
+to his congregation that of the collection that was about to be taken
+half should be put aside as the commencement of a fund which should be
+used to found an institution for the care of the sick poor. The fund
+started that day with thirty dollars, and that was the beginning of
+St. Luke's Hospital. It was not a great while before the actual
+hospital work was begun in a building at 330 Sixth Avenue, near
+Twentieth Street, and there had a home until the completion of that at
+Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street, where it remained until those
+quarters were outgrown, and in 1896 it removed to the new buildings on
+Cathedral Heights.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+Some of the Writers of To-Day
+
+
+There is little of old-time picturesqueness in the city of New York
+to-day, where buildings are too towering, too massive, too thickly
+clustered to offer artistic and unique effects. But a stroll about the
+homes of the writers of the city invests their rather commonplace
+surroundings with more than passing interest.
+
+In the older part of the town, the section that was all of New York a
+hundred years ago and is now the far down-town, there are many
+reminders of those friends whose books are on the most easily reached
+library shelf.
+
+To No. 10 West Street, that stands on the river front, Robert Louis
+Stevenson was taken by a fellow-voyager in 1879; here he stopped the
+first night he spent in America, and of this house he wrote in the
+_Amateur Emigrant_. From the waterside just at dusk, catching a dim
+outline of the varying housetops is to glimpse some old castle of
+feudal times. The lowest building in all this block is No. 10--a
+meagre, dingy, two-story structure that has come to be very old. The
+doors and windows seem to have been made for some other building, and
+to be trying to get back to where they belong, bulging out in the
+struggle and making rents in the house-front.
+
+[Illustration: No. 10 West St.]
+
+Crossing Battery Park to State Street, at No. 17 is the tall
+Chesebrough building that has sprung up on the spot where William
+Irving, brother of Washington, lived, and where the Salmagundi wits
+gathered sometimes in the evening. Two or three doors farther along is
+a survival of old New York which delights the eye, with its porticoes
+and oval windows, odd appearing and many-sided; a mansion when wealth
+and affluence clustered around the Battery. This is the scene of the
+first few chapters of Bunner's _Story of a New York House_. Around the
+corner and through the wide doors of the Produce Exchange, at the back
+of that building and literally hidden in the middle of the block, is
+an old street that seems to have lost its usefulness, a quaint and
+curious way full half a century and more behind the times, now bearing
+the name of Marketfield Street, but once called Petticoat Lane. It is
+no longer a thoroughfare, for in its length of half a block it has
+neither beginning nor end. Here is all that is left of the house in
+which Julia Ward Howe was born.
+
+Passing along Broad Street, where Edmund C. Stedman, the poet and
+financier, has an office close to Wall Street, you come in a few
+minutes to the Custom House. To enter that building is to get lost in
+a moment. Pass through the door into a veritable trackless wilderness
+of narrow black halls, with rooms that open in the most unexpected
+corners, and come after a while to the Debenture Room of old, and to
+the window near which Richard Henry Stoddard had his desk for close
+upon twenty years.
+
+Freed from the intricacies of the old building, continue the stroll
+up-town, and in Park Row, at No. 29, on the third floor, is found the
+old home of the _Commercial Advertiser_, where Jesse Lynch Williams
+worked, and wrote _A City Editor's Conscience_, and other stories. A
+little way farther on is the _Tribune_ building, where William Winter
+has his den, and under the same roof the room where Irving Bacheller
+conducted a newspaper syndicate before _Eben Holden_ was thought of.
+Then on again a few steps to the _Sun_ building and into the room,
+little changed from the time when Charles A. Dana sat there so many
+years, and, close by, the reporters' room where Edward W. Townsend
+worked, and wrote about _Chimmie Fadden_. There is a winding
+staircase, that the uninitiated could never find, leading into the
+rooms of the _Evening Sun_, where Richard Harding Davis "reported,"
+and where he conceived some of the Van Bibber stories. Directly
+across the street is the _World_ office, and looking from the
+windows, so high up that the city looks like a Lilliputian village,
+you have the view that Elizabeth Jordan looked upon during the ten
+years she was getting inspiration for the _Tales of a City Room_. Down
+narrow Frankfort Street is Franklin Square, the home of _Harper's
+Magazine_, where George W. Curtis established his Easy Chair in which
+he was enthroned so long, and which is now occupied by William Dean
+Howells.
+
+Cherry Street leads out of Franklin Square direct to Corlear's Hook
+Park. Half a hundred feet before that green spot is reached, in a
+squalid neighborhood of dirty house-fronts, ragged children, begrimed
+men, and slovenly women, there is a house numbered 426, above the door
+of which are the words: "I was sick and ye visited Me." Dwellers in
+the neighborhood know that this is a hospital for those suffering
+from incurable disease, but, beyond this, seem to know very little
+about it. It is the home of Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, the daughter of
+Nathaniel Hawthorne, who has given up her entire life to brighten many
+another. In the same block, but nearer to Scammel Street, which is
+next towards the south, Brent's foundry used to be in the days when
+Richard Henry Stoddard was an iron-worker and the friend of Bayard
+Taylor, whom he visited in Murray Street.
+
+From this far East Side to Washington Square is quite a distance, but
+stop half-way at Police Headquarters and the nearby reporters'
+offices. Any one there will be glad to point out the room where Jacob
+A. Riis worked so many years and wrote most of _How the Other Half
+Lives_, and from which he carried out his ideas for benefiting the
+city poor--carried them out so well that President Roosevelt called
+him New York's most useful citizen.
+
+[Illustration: Where "How The Other Half Lives" was written]
+
+In Washington Square the wanderer has much to think of in the literary
+associations recalled by this green garden that has blossomed from a
+pauper graveyard, and which has been written of by Howells, Brander
+Matthews, Bayard Taylor, Bunner, Henry James, F. Hopkinson Smith, and
+almost every writer who has brought New York into fiction.
+
+[Illustration: 146 Macdougal St.]
+
+From the square, stroll in any direction for definite reminders.
+Towards the south and around into Macdougal Street, at No. 146, there
+is a dingy brick house with a trellised portico, where Brander
+Matthews and his friends used to dine, and which James L. Ford made
+the Garibaldi of his _Bohemia Invaded_. Walk towards the east, past
+the site of the University building, and stand at the Greene Street
+corner, at No. 21 Washington Place, where Henry James was born.
+Towards the west a few steps into Waverly Place, at No. 108, is a
+squat red brick house where Richard Harding Davis wrote his newspaper
+tales. Across, at the corner, lived George Parsons Lathrop when he
+wrote _Behind Time_, and there his wife, Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, wrote
+_Along the Shore_. An historic site this house stands on, for it is
+where Stoddard and Taylor once lived together. A block to the north is
+old-time Clinton Place, which now, for modern convenience, recking
+not of memory or of sentiment, has become Eighth Street. There, to the
+left of Fifth Avenue, at No. 18, is where Paul du Chaillu wrote _Ivar
+the Viking_, and to the right the house opposite, covered from
+basement to eaves with green clustering vines, is the home of Richard
+Watson Gilder.
+
+[Illustration: 108 Waverly Place]
+
+It is only a question now of crossing half a dozen city blocks towards
+the east to wander into what was called the Bouwerie Village. Modern
+streets and modern improvements have so overridden the village of old
+that traces of it are few and difficult to find. Here in this
+district many a writer of New York has lived. At Fourth Avenue and
+Tenth Street still stands the house, known to all who lived there as
+"The Deanery," in which Miss Annie Swift kept boarders, and where the
+family of Richard Henry Stoddard lived during the last four years that
+Mr. Stoddard held his post in the Custom House. Here Stedman, and
+Bayard Taylor, and Howells were visitors, with scores of other
+writers; here Mrs. Stoddard wrote _The Morgensons_, and here Stoddard
+himself wrote _The King's Bell_, _Melodies and Madrigals_, and other
+poems. Not more than a block away, in the house numbered 118, Richard
+Grant White had his home when he wrote _The New Gospel of Peace,
+According to St. Benjamin_.
+
+[Illustration: Richard Grant White's Home]
+
+Around the corner in Third Avenue, at Thirteenth Street, is a tablet
+telling of the pear tree that Peter Stuyvesant brought from Holland,
+that grew and flourished on the edge of the Stuyvesant orchard for
+more than two hundred years. Within a stone's throw of the tree in the
+sixties, and while it yet bloomed, Stoddard lived with his friend
+Bayard Taylor, and here the _Life of Humboldt_ came from Stoddard's
+pen. Around another corner into Fourteenth Street and down a block to
+No. 224, Paul du Chaillu had apartments when he wrote _The Land of
+the Midnight Sun_; but the tree-filled yard and the vine-covered
+cottage next to it, on which the writer's window looked, are buried
+beneath a dwelling in the full flush of newness.
+
+In Fifteenth Street, just past Stuyvesant Park, is a really
+picturesque row of tiny houses that must have been there when
+Stuyvesant Park was very new indeed. They have balconies enclosed by
+iron fretwork, and the first in the row is especially dainty and
+attractive, and quite overshadowed by the lofty building that has
+grown up beside it. In this out-of-the-way corner the Stoddards lived
+for something more than a quarter of a century, and here they died,
+the brilliant son first, then Mrs. Stoddard, and finally Richard Henry
+Stoddard, in 1903.
+
+Along the parkside and around the corner to Seventeenth Street, No.
+330 was another interesting landmark until, quite lately, it was
+swept away. Brander Matthews lived there, and could look across the
+square to the gray towers of St. George's while he wrote the _French
+Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_. H.C. Bunner had quarters there
+when he wrote _A Woman of Honor_ and other stories of that period, and
+Richard Grant White was a long dweller there.
+
+[Illustration: Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died]
+
+Northward a few streets, on the south side of Gramercy Park, is the
+house of John Bigelow, writer of half a dozen important books, who
+fifty years and more ago assisted William Cullen Bryant in the
+editorial conduct of the _Evening Post_. Only a few steps away, in
+historic Irving Place, the ivy-covered house is where Mrs. Burton
+Harrison wrote _Sweet Bells out of Tune_, and on another block farther
+to the south the Lotus Club long had its home, the building now given
+over to commercial uses.
+
+[Illustration: Where the Author's Club was organized]
+
+In the short stretch of Fifteenth Street that leads from Irving Place
+to Union Square are two points closely associated with the literature
+of the city. One is midway the distance, the prosaic office of a
+brewer now, but once the home of the Century Club when Bancroft the
+historian was its president. The other is nearer to the square, with a
+tall iron fence, and a gateway not at all in keeping with the modern
+appearance of the street. Behind the tall fence is a bit of
+greensward, and beyond that a house quaintly unusual in appearance,
+seeming to shrink from sight in the shadows cast about it. This is
+where Richard Watson Gilder at one time lived, where Charles De Kay
+organized the Authors' Club, and where the Society of American Artists
+was formed.
+
+[Illustration: Horace Greeley's Home]
+
+Beyond Union Square there is in Eighteenth Street the house numbered
+121 where Brander Matthews lived for fourteen or more years, where he
+wrote many of his books, and where was held the first meeting to
+organize the American Copyright League. It was Professor Matthews who
+gave the dinner at which the unique society known as the Kinsmen came
+into being, at the Florence on the same street at number 105,--an
+apartment house in which Ellen Glasgow, Elizabeth Bisland, and Edgar
+Saltus have made their homes, and in which the widow of Herman
+Melville is now living.
+
+In nearby Nineteenth Street is still standing No. 35, a house where
+Horace Greeley lived, with William Allen Butler, the author of
+_Nothing to Wear_, for a next-door neighbor. Three blocks farther on
+is the big office building where Dr. Josiah Strong wrote most of _Our
+Country_, and where Hamilton W. Mabie has a study in the editorial
+rooms of _The Outlook_. A few steps farther in Twenty-second Street,
+at No. 33, Stephen Crane wrote part of _The Red Badge of Courage_ and
+worked on the daily newspapers. Close by in Fifth Avenue is the
+publishing house where the critic and essayist, William Crary
+Brownell, author of _French Traits_, and other works, spends his
+business hours. Around the corner in Twenty-third Street, on the top
+floor of another publishing house is the den of the energetic author,
+editor, and critic, Jeannette L. Gilder. Across Madison Square, at the
+Twenty-fifth Street corner, Edgar Saltus had apartments for some time,
+and just off Broadway in Twenty-seventh Street, at No. 26, Edgar
+Fawcett wrote _A Mild Barbarian_.
+
+On up Madison Avenue past Twenty-eighth Street is a brownstone
+dwelling with a luxuriantly blooming window garden, where James Lane
+Allen lives when he is in town and revises his writings. A few steps
+into the next thoroughfare the Little Church Around the Corner
+nestles in a populous district, and in the next block, just beyond the
+Woman's Hotel, Mrs. Burton Harrison has written many of her books. Two
+blocks away, in the _Life_ building, John A. Mitchell, founder of the
+paper, spends several working hours of each day.
+
+Going farther up-town in Park Avenue just beyond Thirty-sixth Street
+is a substantial building where Dr. Josiah Gilbert Holland wrote and
+where he died. In nearby Thirty-seventh Street hover memories of Parke
+Godwin, who married the daughter of William Cullen Bryant, and whose
+business and literary interests were closely entwined with those of
+his father-in-law. A few steps westward is the solemnly quiet Brick
+Presbyterian Church, where Dr. Henry van Dyke preached before he was
+called to Princeton. Turning into Forty-sixth Street, note a house
+distinguished from its neighbors by a doorway of wrought-iron, where
+John A. Mitchell did much of the writing of _Amos Judd_.
+
+[Illustration: The Beekman Mansion near 52nd St. [Transcriber's
+Note: should be 51st St.] East River]
+
+Across town, where Fifty-first Street touches the East River, is a
+street so short and so out-of-the-way that few New Yorkers have ever
+heard of it. It is called Beekman Place, and in it survives the memory
+of the old Beekman house which stood near by, and which in the days of
+the Revolution was used as a British headquarters. It was in the
+Beekman house that Nathan Hale rested his last night on earth. Here in
+this quiet spot Henry Harland lived in the eighties, when he was
+employed in the Register's Office and got up at two o'clock many and
+many a morning to write (under the name of Sidney Luska) some of his
+earlier books. The windows of his home looked out upon a beautiful and
+unusual city scene. Any one going now to where Fifty-first Street ends
+at an embankment high above the river may see it just as he saw it
+then--see the waves splashing on a rocky shore, with neither docks nor
+wharves nor factories to interfere; see a broad river; see a green
+island with stone turreted towers, and in the distance, forming a
+background, the irregular sky-line of the Brooklyn borough shore.
+
+Farther up-town to Central Park, and there on the south side is the
+mammoth apartment house close to Sixth Avenue, where William Dean
+Howells did much of his work; and on beyond the avenue, at No. 150,
+Kate Douglas Wiggin evolved _Penelope's Experiences_. Still on
+up-town, following the easterly side of the park, in Sixty-fourth
+Street, at No. 16, Carl Schurz lived, and in Seventy-seventh Street is
+the square house of stone where Paul Leicester Ford met such a fearful
+death.
+
+Crossing Central Park to the far west side, the journeyer comes to
+wide, tree-lined West End Avenue, and there at Ninety-third Street,
+almost upon the shores of the Hudson River, in a locality of beautiful
+homes, Brander Matthews, author of _Vignettes of Manhattan_ and _A
+Confident To-morrow_, lives and works. Returning down-town on the
+westerly side of the city, stop just beyond Amsterdam Avenue and
+Eighty-sixth Street before a house, colonial as to its doors and
+windows at least, the home of that distinguished naval officer and
+writer, Captain A.T. Mahan. On the nearest corner is the church where
+funeral services were held over Paul du Chaillu when his body was
+brought back from Russia. Down a few streets, John Denison Champlin,
+author and encyclopaedist, has his home, in a yellow apartment house,
+and half a block along Seventy-eighth Street stands the terra cotta
+building occupied by Stedman before he moved to Bronxville. Down to
+Sixty-fifth Street now, a dozen steps or more west of Central Park,
+Edgar Fawcett conceived _A Romance of Old New York_, before going to
+Europe for an indefinite stay.
+
+[Illustration: Lawrence Hutton's House]
+
+In Thirty-fourth Street, midway between Seventh and Eighth Avenues,
+visit the solid little brick house, with green shutters and an air of
+dignity that proclaims it of another time. This has stood for three
+quarters of a century and at one time had no neighbors. There, until
+1898, when he went to Princeton, Lawrence Hutton gathered his
+collection of objects artistic from all parts of the world; there he
+kept his assortment of death masks; there he wrote and entertained his
+friends, authors, actors, men of different callings.
+
+[Illustration: De Kay's House--London Terrace]
+
+Let the last step be to that reminder of old Chelsea Village, in
+Twenty-third Street beyond Ninth Avenue, called London Terrace. The
+Terrace was built when Chelsea was really a village, and exists
+to-day long after the village has ceased to have an identity. One
+house in the row, No. 413, is particularly interesting, picturesquely
+and historically, carrying as its literary association the name of
+Charles De Kay, critic and author--a name of to-day and of the past as
+well, for he is the grandson of the poet, Joseph Rodman Drake.
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+A
+
+_Adventures of Captain Bonneville, The_, 102
+
+_Afara_, 139
+
+_Age of Reason, The_, 32, 84
+
+Aldrich, James, 179
+
+Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, 218
+
+Allen, James Lane, 247
+
+All Souls' Church, 188
+
+_Along the Shore_, 238
+
+_Amateur Emigrant_, 231
+
+_American_, 174
+
+American Copyright League, 245
+
+_American Game in its Season_, 216
+
+_American Monthly Magazine_, 154, 180
+
+_American Review_, 158
+
+_American Theatre, The_, 70
+
+_Amos Judd_, 249
+
+_Analectic Magazine_, 96, 112
+
+_An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_, 200
+
+"Ancient Club of New York," 110
+
+Andre, Major John, 55, 56
+
+_Androborus_, 37
+
+_Annabel Lee_, 164
+
+Apollo dancing rooms, 170
+
+_Arcturus_, 178
+
+_Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, 206
+
+Arnold, Benedict, House of, 56
+
+Arnold, George, 215, 216
+
+_Arthur Mervyn_, 78
+
+Astor House, 172
+
+Astor, John Jacob, 102, 123
+
+Astor Place Opera House, 160
+
+_Astoria_, 102
+
+_Atlantic Monthly_, 133
+
+Audubon, John James, 189-195
+
+Authors' Club, 245
+
+
+B
+
+Bacheller, Irving, 234
+
+_Backwoodsman, The_, 113
+
+Bancroft, George, 103, 186
+
+Barlow, Joel, 84
+
+Barstow, Elizabeth, 204
+
+Bartlett, John R., 172-180
+
+Bartlett's Book Shop, 172-180
+
+_Battle Pieces_, 224
+
+_Beauties of Santa Cruz_, 52
+
+Beekman House, The, 249
+
+_Behind Time_, 238
+
+_Bells, The_, 164
+
+_Ben Bolt_, 162
+
+Benjamin, Park, 175, 179, 180
+
+_Biblical Researches in Palestine_, 151
+
+Bigelow, John, 183, 243
+
+Bisland, Elizabeth, 246
+
+Bleecker, Eliza, 47-51
+
+Bleecker Street, 83
+
+Bloomingdale Village, 145, 157
+
+_Bohemia Invaded_, 238
+
+Boker, George H., 207
+
+Bonneville, Captain, 102
+
+Bonneville, Madame, 82, 83
+
+Books of New Amsterdam, 7
+
+Booth, Mary L., 227
+
+Botta, Mrs., 197, 199, 200
+
+Botta, Vincenzo, 198
+
+Bouwerie Village, 19, 22
+
+Bowling Green, 8
+
+Bradford's printing press, 27
+
+Bradford, William, 38, 57
+
+Bradford, William, tomb of, 25-29
+
+_Bravo, The_, 134
+
+Bread-and-Cheese Club, 131-133
+
+Brevoort, Henry, 110
+
+Brickmaking in New Amsterdam, 3
+
+Briggs, Charles F., 159, 160
+
+_British Prison Ship, The_, 53
+
+Broad Street, 7, 13, 31
+
+Broadway, 67
+
+_Broadway Journal_, 159
+
+Brook Farm, 205
+
+Brown, Charles Brockden, 77, 78-80
+
+Browne, George Farrar, 217
+
+Brownell, William Crary, 247
+
+Bryant, William Cullen, 132, 133, 174, 180-188
+
+Bunner, H.C., 243
+
+Burns's Coffee House, 99
+
+Burr, Aaron, 63, 190
+
+Burton, William E., 150
+
+Butler, William Allen, 246
+
+
+C
+
+_Calaynos_, 207
+
+Cary, Alice, 222-228
+
+Cary, Phoebe, 222-228
+
+_Cecil Dreeme_, 219
+
+Century Club, 186, 244
+
+_Champion of Freedom, The_, 130
+
+Champlin, John Denison, 252
+
+Cheever, George B, 151
+
+Chelsea Square, 195, 196
+
+Chelsea Village, 145, 195, 196
+
+Child, Lydia M., 199, 200
+
+_Chimmie Fadden_, 234
+
+Church Farm, 33
+
+Church in the Fort, 15, 20
+
+Church of the Holy Communion, 229
+
+_City Editor's Conscience, A_, 234
+
+City Hall, First, 8
+
+City Hall in Wall Street, 31
+
+City Hall Park, 48, 67, 108
+
+City Hall (Present), 75, 109
+
+City Hotel, 100, 128
+
+City Plan Commission, 109, 110
+
+Clapp, Henry, 213
+
+Clapp's _Almanac_, John, 27-29
+
+_Clara Howard_, 78
+
+_Clari, the Maid of Milan_, 74
+
+Clark, Lewis Gaylord, 175-178
+
+Clark, Willis Gaylord, 176
+
+Clarke, McDonald, 136-144
+
+_Clermont, The_, 109
+
+Clinton Hall, 159, 160
+
+Cobbett, William, 85
+
+Colden, Cadwallader, 38, 39, 42, 43
+
+Collect Pond, 22, 48
+
+Columbia College, 81, 116, 174
+
+Columbia University, 43
+
+_Columbiad_, 84
+
+_Commentaries on American Law_, 81
+
+_Commercial Advertiser_, 65, 183
+
+_Common Sense_, 82
+
+Common, The, 48, 49, 67
+
+_Complaint of New Netherland, The_, 10
+
+_Confident To-morrow, A_, 251
+
+_Conquest of Grenada_, 97
+
+Contoit's Garden, 170
+
+Cooke, George Frederick, 71, 72
+
+Cooper, James Fenimore, 125-136, 184
+
+Cooper, Susan Fenimore, 127
+
+Cornbury, Lord, 34, 35
+
+Corporation Library, 31
+
+_Corsair, The_, 155
+
+Cosby, Governor, 39-43
+
+Cozzens, Frederick S., 175, 178
+
+Crane, Stephen, 246
+
+_Criterion, The_, 222
+
+"Croaker Papers," 119
+
+Croegers, Tryntie, 15
+
+_Cromwell_, 216
+
+_Culprit Fay, The_, 121
+
+Curtis, George William, 235
+
+
+D
+
+Dana, Charles A., 234
+
+Dana, Richard Henry, 130, 131
+
+Da Ponte, Lorenzo, 141, 142
+
+Davis, Richard Harding, 234, 238
+
+_Deacon Giles's Distillery_, 151
+
+Dearman, 104
+
+_Death of the Flowers_, 181
+
+Debtors' Prison, 49-51
+
+DeKay, Charles, 245, 254
+
+De Lancey, Etienne, 99
+
+Dennie, Joseph, 77, 79, 80
+
+De Sille, Anna, 18
+
+De Sille, Nicasius, 11-19
+
+_Deukalion_, 208
+
+Dewey, Orville, 185
+
+_Diamond Lens, The_, 220
+
+_Dictionary of Americanisms_, 172
+
+_Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_, 112
+
+_Don Giovanni_, 141
+
+Downing, Major Jack, 150, 201
+
+Drake, Joseph Rodman, 103, 115-124
+
+Draper, Dr. John W., 220, 221
+
+Du Chaillu, Paul, 239, 241, 252
+
+Duke's Farm, 32
+
+Dunlap, William, 70, 71, 77
+
+_Dutchman's Fireside, The_, 113
+
+Duyckinck, Evert A., 175, 178, 179
+
+Duyckinck, George, 179
+
+Dyde's, 111
+
+
+E
+
+East River Park, 101
+
+_Eben Holden_, 234
+
+_Edgar Huntley_, 78
+
+Elgin Botanical Garden, 81
+
+_Elixir of Moonshine_, 139
+
+Embury, Emma C., 144
+
+_Encyclopaedia of American Literature_, 179
+
+English, Thomas Dunn, 162, 164
+
+_Eureka_, 163
+
+_Evening Mirror_, 152, 156-159
+
+_Evening Post_, 181, 182
+
+Exchange Street, 13
+
+
+F
+
+Fairlie, Mary, 94
+
+_Fall of the House of Usher_, 150
+
+_Fanny_, 118
+
+_Fashion and Famine_, 202
+
+Fawcett, Edgar, 247, 253
+
+Fay, Theodore S., 154
+
+Federal Hall, 62
+
+_Federalist_, 62
+
+Fire of 1776, 54
+
+First almanac printed, 27-29
+
+First City Hall, 8
+
+First free school, 109
+
+First library, 31
+
+First museum, 171
+
+First newspaper, 38, 57
+
+First newspaper row, 57
+
+First night watch, 25
+
+First poet of New Amsterdam, 4-10
+
+First Poorhouse, 49
+
+First printing press, 27
+
+First street lighting, 25
+
+First Tammany Hall, 71
+
+First telegraphic message, 194
+
+Fitzroy, Lord Augustus, 41, 42
+
+_Footnotes_, 204
+
+Fordham, 162-166
+
+Ford, James L., 238
+
+Ford, Paul Leicester, 251
+
+Forester, Frank, 216
+
+_Forest Life_, 199
+
+Forrest-Macready Riots, 160
+
+Francis, Dr. J.W., 132
+
+Frankfort Street, 45, 46
+
+_French Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_, 243
+
+_French Traits_, 247
+
+Freneau, Philip, 47, 51-66
+
+Friendly Club, 77
+
+Fuller, Margaret, 202, 203
+
+
+G
+
+Gaine, Hugh, 58-60
+
+_Gazetteer_, Rivington's, 56
+
+General Theological Seminary, 195, 196
+
+_Gentleman's Magazine, The_, 150, 152
+
+Gilder, Jeannette L., 247
+
+Gilder, Richard Watson, 239, 245
+
+_Give Me the Old_, 151
+
+Glasgow, Ellen, 246
+
+_Gleanings in Europe_, 135
+
+_Glimpses of Home Life_, 143
+
+_Godey's Lady's Book_, 161
+
+Godwin, Parke, 182, 183, 186, 248
+
+Golden Hill, 48, 87, 88
+
+Golden Hill Inn, 88
+
+Goodrich, Samuel G., 227
+
+Gowans, William, 149
+
+Gracie's house, 103
+
+_Graham's Magazine_, 152
+
+_Grayslaer_, 175
+
+Greeley, Horace, 202, 205, 206, 224, 246
+
+Greenwich Village, 81-83, 145, 146
+
+Griswold, Rufus W., 207
+
+Grove Street, 84
+
+
+H
+
+Hackett, James H., 114
+
+Halleck, Fitz-Greene, 103, 115-124, 132, 138, 142
+
+Hall of Records, 49-51
+
+Halpine, Charles Graham, 220
+
+Hamilton, Alexander, 62, 191
+
+Hamilton Grange, 62
+
+_Handbook of Universal Literature_, 198
+
+Hanover Square, 57-59, 61
+
+Harland, Henry, 250
+
+Harlem, 145
+
+Harrison, Mrs. Burton, 244, 248
+
+"Harry Franco," 159, 174
+
+Haven, Alice, 228
+
+Hell Gate, 101
+
+Herbert, Henry W., 216, 217
+
+Hildreth, Richard, 224
+
+Hillhouse, James A., 128, 181
+
+_History of Intellectual Development in Europe_, 221
+
+_History of New York_, 227
+
+_History of the City of New York_, 227
+
+_History of the Five Nations_, 39
+
+_History, Rise, and Progress of the Arts of Design in
+the United States_, 70
+
+_Hobomok_, 199
+
+Hodgkinson, Thomas Hawkins, 120
+
+Hoffman, Charles Fenno, 173-176, 206
+
+Hoffman, Josiah Ogden, 95
+
+Hoffman, Matilda, 95, 174
+
+Holland, Dr. Josiah Gilbert, 248
+
+_Home Journal_, 157
+
+_Home, Sweet Home_, 74
+
+_Homeward Bound_, 136
+
+Hone, Philip, 132, 183
+
+Hoogh Street, 10
+
+_Horse and Horsemanship in North America, The_, 216
+
+_Horseshoe Robinson_, 149
+
+Hosack, Dr. David, 81
+
+_House of Night, The_, 52
+
+Houses of New Amsterdam, 2, 3
+
+Howe, Julia Ward, 233
+
+Howells, William Dean, 218, 235, 251
+
+_How the Other Half Lives_, 236
+
+Hudson Park, 146-148
+
+Huguenot Church, 32
+
+Hunter, Governor Robert, 35-38
+
+Hutton, Lawrence, 253
+
+
+I
+
+_Idle Man, The_, 131
+
+Idlewild, 156
+
+_Imp of the Perverse, The_, 158
+
+Independent Columbian Hotel, 94
+
+Irving, Ebenezer, 100
+
+Irving, John T., 104
+
+Irving, Peter, 92, 94, 109, 110
+
+Irvington, 104
+
+Irving, Washington, 87-105, 109-112, 115, 174
+
+Irving, Washington, birthplace of, 89
+
+Irving, William, 93, 107, 108, 110-112, 231
+
+Italian Opera House, 141
+
+_Ivar the Viking_, 239
+
+_I Would Not Live Alway_, 228
+
+
+J
+
+James, Henry, 238
+
+_Jane Talbot_, 78
+
+Jans Farm, Annetje, 32, 33
+
+_Jersey_, The prison ship, 53
+
+_John Brent_, 219
+
+_John Bull in America_, 114
+
+John Street Theatre, 55, 56, 90, 91
+
+Jordan, Elizabeth, 235
+
+_Judgment, The_, 128
+
+Jumel, Madame, 190
+
+Jumel Mansion, 190
+
+
+K
+
+Kean, Edmund, 137
+
+Kemble, Gouverneur, 110, 111, 113
+
+Kennedy, John P., 148, 149
+
+Kent, James, 77, 80, 81
+
+Kidd, Captain William, 24
+
+Kilmaster's School, 91
+
+Kimball, Richard, 207
+
+_King's Bell_, 240
+
+King's College, 43
+
+King's Farm, 32
+
+Kinsmen, The, 246
+
+Kip, Hendrick, 12, 18
+
+Kirkland, Caroline M., 198, 199
+
+Kissing Bridge, 22
+
+Knickerbocker Days, Close of the, 167-172
+
+_Knickerbocker History of New York_, 94
+
+_Knickerbocker_ Magazine, 174, 176, 177
+
+Knight, Madame Sarah, 33-35
+
+_Koningsmarke_, 113
+
+_Kubleh_, 206
+
+
+L
+
+Lafayette Theatre, 134
+
+Lamb, Martha J., 227
+
+La Montagne, Dr., 12
+
+_Land of the Midnight Sun, The_, 242
+
+_Last of the Mohicans, The_, 134
+
+Lathrop, George Parsons, 238
+
+Lathrop, Rose Hawthorne, 236, 238
+
+Lawson, James, 120
+
+"Lay Preacher, The," 79
+
+_Legend of Sleepy Hollow_, 103
+
+Leggett, William, 182
+
+Leisler, Jacob, 46
+
+_Letters from under a Bridge_, 155
+
+Lewis, Estella, 201, 202
+
+_Liberty Bell, The_, 151
+
+_Life and Voyages of Columbus_, 97
+
+_Life of Horace Greeley_, 224
+
+_Life of Humboldt_, 241
+
+_Life of Joseph Brant, The_, 184
+
+_Life of Mahomet_, 105
+
+_Life of Red Jacket, The_, 184
+
+_Life of Washington_, 105
+
+_Lion of the West, The_, 114
+
+_Literary Gazette_, 179
+
+_Literary Magazine and American Register, The_, 80
+
+_Literary World, The_, 179
+
+_Literati of New York, The_, 161
+
+London Terrace, 253
+
+Longfellow, Henry W., 97
+
+Longworth, David, 93
+
+Loockermans, Govert, 12
+
+Ludlow, Fitz-Hugh, 215
+
+Luska, Sidney, 250
+
+Lynch, Anne C., 197-204
+
+
+M
+
+Mabie, Hamilton W., 246
+
+Mad Poet, The, 136-144
+
+_Magazine of American History_, 227
+
+Mahan, Captain A.T., 252
+
+"Major Jack Downing," 150, 201
+
+_Marco Bozzaris_, 124, 181
+
+Martling's Tavern, 71
+
+_Mary Derwent_, 202
+
+Masonic Hall, 170
+
+Matthews, Brander, 238, 243, 245, 246, 251
+
+McLelland, Isaac, 152
+
+_Melodies and Madrigals_, 240
+
+Melville, Herman, 224-226
+
+Mercantile Library, 160
+
+Messinger, Robert H., 151
+
+Middle Dutch Church, 55, 171
+
+_Mild Barbarian, A_, 247
+
+Miller, John, 29, 30
+
+_Minerva, The_, 65
+
+Minniesland, 189, 194
+
+_Mirror, The_, 130
+
+Mitchell, John A., 248, 249
+
+Mitchill, Dr. Samuel, 94
+
+Moore, Bishop Benjamin, 196
+
+Moore, Clement C., 195, 196
+
+Moreau, Jean Victor, 61
+
+_Morgensons, The_, 240
+
+_Morning Chronicle_, 92, 109
+
+Morris, George P., 130, 138, 153, 154, 156, 157
+
+Morris House, 123, 190
+
+Morse, Samuel F.B., 194
+
+Muhlenberg, Dr. William Augustus, 228
+
+Murray Hill, 60
+
+Murray, Lindley, 60, 61
+
+Murray, Mrs., 60
+
+_My Faith Looks up to Thee_, 140
+
+
+N
+
+_Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_, 150
+
+_National Anti-Slavery Standard_, 199
+
+_National Gazette_, 64
+
+_Nearer My Home_, 223
+
+New Amsterdam, 2-6
+
+_New England Magazine_, 179
+
+_New Gospel of Peace, The_, 241
+
+_New Mirror_, 162
+
+Newspaper, First, 38, 57
+
+Newspaper Row, The first, 57
+
+New York before the Civil War, 209-212
+
+_New York Gazette_, 38, 58
+
+_New York Gazetteer_, 58
+
+New York in 1830, 167-172
+
+_New York Journal_, 58
+
+_New York Mercury_, 58
+
+_New York Mirror_, 153-156
+
+_New York Quarterly Review_, 149
+
+_New York Review and Athenaeum_, 181
+
+Niblo's Garden, 171
+
+Night watch, The first, 25
+
+Noah, Mordecai M., 138
+
+_Nothing to Wear_, 246
+
+_Nozze di Figaro_, 141
+
+
+O
+
+O'Brien, Fitz-James, 220, 221
+
+Odellville, 145
+
+_Old Oaken Bucket, The_, 130
+
+_Old Sexton, The_, 180
+
+"Old Tom's," 118, 119
+
+_Oliver Goldsmith_, 105
+
+O'Reilly, Miles, 220
+
+_Ormond_, 78
+
+Osgood, Frances Sargent, 203, 204
+
+_Our Country_, 246
+
+_Our New World_, 180
+
+_Outlook, The_, 246
+
+
+P
+
+Paine, Thomas, 82-86
+
+Paine, Thomas, Grave of, 85, 86
+
+Paine, Thomas, House of, 83, 84
+
+Palmer, Ray, 139, 140
+
+Park Row, 68
+
+Park Theatre, 68, 72, 75, 77, 171
+
+Parton, James, 224
+
+Paulding, James Kirke, 90, 93, 103, 107-114
+
+_Paul Felton_, 131
+
+Payne, John Howard, 72-75, 97
+
+_Penelope's Experiences_, 251
+
+Percival, James G., 132, 181
+
+"Peter Parley," 227
+
+Petticoat Lane, 233
+
+Pfaff's, 213-218
+
+_Philosophy of Composition_, 161
+
+_Picture of New York_, 94
+
+_Pilot, The_, 128
+
+Pine Street, 32, 75, 76
+
+_Pioneers, The_, 128
+
+Poe, Edgar Allan, 145-166, 200-204
+
+Poe, Virginia, 149, 157, 162, 164
+
+_Poems of the Orient_, 208
+
+Poet, First, of New Netherland, 4-10
+
+_Poets and Poetry of America_, 207
+
+Poorhouse, First, 49
+
+_Portfolio, The_, 79
+
+_Powhatan_, 151
+
+_Prairie, The_, 134
+
+_Praise of New Netherland, The_, 10
+
+_Precaution_, 126
+
+_Prose Writers of America_, 207
+
+_Putnam's Magazine_, 159
+
+
+Q
+
+Queen's Farm, 32
+
+
+R
+
+_Raven, The_, 158, 161, 202
+
+_Red Badge of Courage, The_, 246
+
+_Red Rover, The_, 134
+
+Renwick, Jane, 96, 104
+
+Renwick, Professor James, 96, 132
+
+Revolution, New York during the, 54-56
+
+Reynold's Ale House, 117-119
+
+Richmond Hill, 63
+
+Riis, Jacob A., 236
+
+Ripley, George, 205
+
+_Rip Van Winkle_, 97
+
+Rivington, James, 58, 59
+
+Robinson, Edward, 151
+
+_Romance of Old New York, A_, 253
+
+
+S
+
+St. George's Chapel, 90
+
+St. John's Burying-Ground, 147, 148, 150
+
+St. John's Park, 125, 126
+
+_St. Leger_, 207
+
+St. Luke's Hospital, 228, 229
+
+St. Mark's Church, 22, 23
+
+St. Patrick's Church, 142
+
+St. Paul's Chapel, 62, 108
+
+_Salmagundi_, 41, 93
+
+_Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, 111
+
+Saltus, Edgar, 246, 247
+
+Sands, Robert C, 133, 181
+
+_Saturday Press_, 214, 218
+
+Schurz, Carl, 251
+
+Scudder's Museum, 171
+
+Second City Hall, 12
+
+Selyns, Henricus, 20-24
+
+Shakespeare Tavern, 120
+
+"Sign of the Bible and Crown," 58
+
+_Sinless Child, The_, 200
+
+_Sketches in Switzerland_, 135
+
+Smith, Rev. Eli, 151
+
+Smith, Dr. Elihu Hubbard, 76-79
+
+Smith, Elizabeth Oakes, 201
+
+Smith, Seba, 150
+
+Smith, William, 43, 44
+
+Society Library, 31
+
+Society of American Artists, 245
+
+_Southern Literary Messenger_, 148
+
+_Sparkling and Bright_, 173
+
+_Sparrowgrass Papers_, 178
+
+_Spy, The_, 126, 134
+
+Stadt Huys, 8
+
+Stedman, Edmund C., 218, 233, 253
+
+Steendam, Jacob, 4-10
+
+Stephens, Ann S., 202
+
+Stephens, John L., 175-177
+
+Stevenson, Robert Louis, 230, 231
+
+Stoddard, Richard Henry, 204-207, 233, 236, 238, 240-242
+
+Stoddard, Mrs. Richard Henry, 240, 242
+
+Stone Street, 9
+
+Stone, William L., 175, 183, 184
+
+_Story of a New York House, The_, 232
+
+Streets first lighted, 25
+
+Strong, Dr. Josiah, 246
+
+Stuyvesant, Judith, 11
+
+Stuyvesant, Peter, 1, 11, 12, 19
+
+_Stylus, The_, 152
+
+_Sunday Times and Messenger_, 138
+
+Sunnyside, 104
+
+_Swallow Barn_, 149
+
+_Sweet Bells Out of Tune_, 244
+
+
+T
+
+_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_, 120
+
+_Tales of a City Room_, 235
+
+_Tales of a Country Schoolmaster_, 182
+
+_Tales of the Good Woman_, 114
+
+_Talisman_ Magazine, 181
+
+_Talisman, The_, 133
+
+Tammany Hall, First, 71
+
+Taylor, Bayard, 198, 204-208, 218, 238, 241
+
+Temple, Charlotte, 118
+
+Temple Street, 118
+
+Thames Street, 99
+
+_Thistle Finch, The_, 10
+
+Thomson, Mortimer, 215
+
+Tienhoven's Street, 76
+
+_Tom Thornton_, 131
+
+_Town and Country_, 157
+
+Townsend, Edward W., 234
+
+Trinity Church, 26, 32
+
+Tuckerman, Henry T., 221, 222
+
+_Typee_, 226
+
+
+U
+
+_Ulalume_, 165
+
+_United States and England_, 112
+
+_Universe, The_, 165
+
+
+V
+
+Van Brugh Street, 57
+
+Van Cortlandt, Oloff, 12
+
+_Vanderlyn_, 175
+
+Van Dyke, Henry, 248
+
+_Vanity Fair_, 215, 218
+
+Van Tassel house, 103
+
+Vauxhall, 171
+
+Verplanck, Gulian C., 133, 142, 181, 186
+
+_Views Afoot_, 205
+
+_Vignettes of Manhattan_, 251
+
+_Visit of St. Nicholas_, 197
+
+_Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, 98
+
+
+W
+
+Wallace, William Ross, 151
+
+Wall Street, 6
+
+Wall, The city, 5
+
+Ward, Artemus, 217
+
+Washington, George, 62, 64
+
+Washington Hall, 131
+
+_Water Witch, The_, 134
+
+Webster, Noah, 65
+
+_Weekly Post-Boy_, 58
+
+_Westward Ho!_, 114
+
+Whitehall, 8
+
+White, Richard Grant, 241, 243
+
+Whitman, Walt, 218
+
+_Wieland_, 78
+
+Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 251
+
+_Wild Scenes in Forest and Prairie_, 175
+
+Wiley, the publisher, 130
+
+Williams, Jesse Lynch, 234
+
+William Street, 88
+
+Willis, Nathaniel P., 138, 154-157, 162
+
+Windust's, 111, 137, 138
+
+_Winter in the West, A_, 175
+
+Winter, William, 218, 234
+
+Winthrop, Theodore, 219, 220
+
+_Wolfert's Roost_, 103, 104
+
+_Woman of Honor, The_, 243
+
+_Woodman, Spare that Tree_, 154
+
+Woodworth, Samuel, 129, 130, 142, 153, 154
+
+
+Y
+
+Yorkville, 145
+
+"Young American Roscius," 73
+
+
+Z
+
+Zenger, Peter, 38, 40
+
+
+
+
+_BELLES-LETTRES_
+
+
+Browning, Poet and Man
+
+A Survey. By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis,"
+"William Morris," etc.
+
+_8o. With 25 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone. $2.50._
+
+"It is written with taste and judgment.... The book is exactly what it
+ought to be, and will lead many to an appreciation of Browning who
+have hitherto looked at the bulk of his writings with disgust.... It
+is beautifully illustrated, and the paper and typography are superb.
+It is an edition that every admirer of Browning should possess, being
+worthy in every way of the poet."--_Chicago Evening Post._
+
+
+Tennyson, His Homes, his Friends, and his Work.
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "William Morris,"
+etc.
+
+_8o. With 18 illustrations in photogravure and some text
+illustrations. Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone, $2.50._
+
+"The multitude of admirers of Tennyson in the United States will mark
+this beautiful volume as very satisfactory. The text is clear, terse,
+and intelligent, and the matter admirably arranged, while the
+mechanical work is faultless, with art work especially marked for
+excellence."--_Chicago Inter-Ocean._
+
+_G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS_
+
+_New York_ _London_
+
+
+
+
+_BELLES-LETTRES_
+
+
+William Morris, Poet, Craftsman, Socialist
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "Robert
+Browning," "Tennyson," etc.
+
+_8o. Fully illustrated, uniform with "The Rossettis," "Browning,"
+etc. Net, $3.50. By mail, $3.75._
+
+William Morris, of active, varied, and interesting life, has been the
+subject of several biographies, written from different points of view.
+Nevertheless, there is need for an account that gathers together the
+chief facts of the life in a condensed form, and connects them with
+comment and criticism of an informing character. Miss Cary has
+emphasized the essential unity of purpose underlying the numerous and
+diverse pursuits in which Morris was engaged, and has sought to
+distinguish the peculiar and enduring qualities by which his genius
+was marked.
+
+
+The Rossettis, Dante Gabriel and Christina
+
+By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY
+
+_With 27 illustrations in photogravure and some text illustrations.
+Net, $3.50._
+
+_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations
+in half-tone, $2.50._
+
+"The story of this life has been told by Mr. Hall Caine, Mr. William
+Sharp, Mr. Watts-Dunton, and Mr. William Rossetti, his brother, but
+never quite so well as by Miss Cary, who, thoroughly conversant with
+all the material which their writings furnish, has turned it to better
+advantage than they were capable of from their personal relation to
+its perplexing subject."--_Mail and Express._
+
+_G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS_
+
+_New York_ _London_
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 31814.txt or 31814.zip *******
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