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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year, by 
+William Keane
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year
+       Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants
+       Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit,
+       Orchid, and Forcing-house
+
+Author: William Keane
+
+Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+IN-DOOR GARDENING
+
+FOR
+
+EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR:
+
+SHOWING
+
+THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS
+
+CULTIVATED IN THE
+
+GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+BY WILLIAM KEANE.
+
+THIRD EDITION.
+
+LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171,
+FLEET STREET.
+
+1865.
+
+
+
+
+IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY.
+
+
+JANUARY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Cinerarias.--The plants intended for large specimens must receive
+their final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their
+foliage without interfering with or injuring each other. The
+side-shoots to be tied out.
+
+Epacrises.--As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower,
+a little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display
+their spikes of bloom more advantageously.
+
+Fuchsias.--If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest
+should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots,
+beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the
+roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice
+moist temperature of 50° by day and 40° by night.
+
+Heaths.--To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves
+removed. The most forward in bud--such as the _Vestitas_, _Vernix_,
+_Vasciflora_, _Aristata_, _Beaumontia_, and many others, to be tied
+out, and arranged for the season.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When large specimens are wanted, tie out the
+branches at equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot
+as possible. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water
+to be given but sparingly, and not overhead.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if
+kept at 50° in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The
+atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is
+bright; and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into
+bloom to be removed to the warmest part of the house.
+
+Clerodendrons.--To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced
+and repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow
+seeds, and also of any hard-wooded stove plants.
+
+Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient
+to prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually
+it is necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to
+be kept moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c.,
+daily. If any plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it
+should be placed in the warmest part of the house, and the ripening
+process encouraged. The Brassias, Cyanoches, Coelogynes,
+Miltonias, and other such plants, when they are beginning to grow,
+to be repotted. The compost to consist of turfy peat mixed with a
+portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least
+half full of very open drainage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial
+heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air.
+
+Figs.--Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature
+without injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to
+begin cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with
+fire the less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of
+sun and light must be embraced for making sure progress with them.
+
+Peaches.--Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to
+be cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have
+expanded their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or
+other artificial heat to be applied moderately--that is, from 45° by
+night to 55° by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather
+prevails. The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately
+moist, and in a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty
+freely once or twice a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny
+days, and sprinkle the paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently.
+
+Vines.--When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be
+rubbed off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long
+enough to admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch
+being broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the
+practice of producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by
+means of dung and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If
+they are to be broken principally by fire heat, either by flues or
+hot-water pipes, copious syringings must be resorted to with tepid
+water once or twice a-day. Fire heat to be applied principally by
+day, with air at the same time, and very moderately at night.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants will now require particular attention and a nice
+discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended
+by all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the
+soil on the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water
+until it gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be
+given before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the
+plant droops and the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is
+then to be discovered by turning the ball out of the pot, when it
+will be seen whether the whole or only a portion of the soil is wet;
+as it sometimes happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it
+shrinks from the sides of the pot when dry, and when water is given
+it runs down and moistens the outside, without penetrating the ball.
+The evil is corrected by holding it for a short space of time in a
+tub of water of the same temperature as the house. If the soil of
+any plant is sodden with water it should be turned out of the pot,
+and the drainage examined, and no water to be given until it becomes
+thoroughly dry.
+
+Verbenas.--They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more
+susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the
+glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew
+appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry,
+they will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not
+suffer for want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60° by fire
+heat, and a fall of 10° may be allowed at night in very cold
+weather. Many of the stove plants--such as Aphelandras, Justicias,
+Poinsettias, &c.--may now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a
+few weeks, which will cause them to make an early growth, and to
+come into flower a few weeks sooner next winter.
+
+Gesneras.--Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to
+start into growth to produce a succession of flowers.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply
+of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness
+is sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the
+top is kept moist by gentle waterings.
+
+Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply
+is wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give
+them frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red
+spider.
+
+Mushrooms.--An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If
+the beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it
+like dew at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50° to 60°,
+with air occasionally in favourable weather.
+
+Peaches.--Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be
+artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off
+a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be
+carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they
+have been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end
+doors being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top
+daily in favourable weather.
+
+Pines.--As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants
+that are swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual
+increase of heat (from 65° at night to 75° or 80° in the middle of
+the day in clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while
+others that are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or
+more moderate temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric
+humidity. Some of the strongest succession plants that are grown in
+pots to receive their final shift, that they may make their growth
+for fruiting in May or June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where
+the flues run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely
+examined, as they are apt to be injured by fire heat in such a
+situation.
+
+Strawberries.--A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame
+where there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to
+their healthy growth than in a house.
+
+Vines.--When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the
+night temperature to range from 60° to 65°, with an increase of from
+5° to 10° during the day.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully
+exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than
+is absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and
+keep the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.
+
+Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and
+_Early Horn_ Carrots, Cauliflower and _Walcheren_ Broccoli, Lettuce,
+and various other things, which will be found useful where the late
+severe weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn
+sowings.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+
+Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always
+unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.
+Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as
+water settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the
+plants, bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their
+blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where they can be
+preserved much longer in perfection. The plants to be looked over
+every morning, and every dead or decaying leaf and flower to be
+removed.
+
+Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such
+coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much
+injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp
+atmosphere. Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them
+at all opportunities.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally
+shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a
+slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and
+free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will
+now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show
+signs of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little
+water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
+
+Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy
+more time than can be very well spared as spring operations
+accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of
+Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are
+showing signs of growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes,
+fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy insects,
+and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, are the materials
+to be used. Any plants that had become very dry should be immersed
+in tepid water for an hour the day previous to shifting. The climate
+of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are
+the best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment
+required for _Oncidium Carthaginense_ would kill _O. bifolium_, and
+_Cattleya Forbesii_ will thrive where _C. Skinneri_ will die, and in
+like manner with many others.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be
+placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them
+singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards
+shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be
+planted out on a south border.
+
+Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate
+temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning
+to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the
+temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh,
+rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects.
+When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off
+the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out
+two shoots from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck
+in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.
+
+Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving
+air where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the
+trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
+
+Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
+
+Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they
+are impatient of heat: let 45° be about the maximum, with a very
+free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed,
+let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth
+of 55° to 60°. In such a situation they will want scarcely any
+water until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.
+
+Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for
+Capsicums.
+
+Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are
+sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless
+shoots to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are
+not required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take
+off some of the shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If
+two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be removed.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be
+prepared and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply
+for immediate use should be stored in an open shed.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be potted into larger pots as they
+require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf
+mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a
+moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55°
+in the day. To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days,
+and to be kept free from insects.
+
+Fuchsias.--After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and
+their roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and
+peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced
+to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch
+long they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp,
+where they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in
+heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower
+garden.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Water them with care and moderation. Air to be
+given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied
+only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong
+shoots of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the
+best foundation for future good specimens.
+
+Sow seeds of Thunbergias, _Phlox Drummondi_, Mignonette, _Ten-week_
+and other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Achimenes.--Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly
+as they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to
+be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.
+
+Gloxinias.--Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh
+potted in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little
+sand. To be excited in bottom heat.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Those which were first in flower should be dried
+off for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding
+water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the
+light.
+
+Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such
+tender annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine
+specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants preparing for ridging out early in February
+will require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water
+occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce
+sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at
+this season. To be kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to
+be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less than 70° by
+day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting
+materials to be always prepared ready to receive the linings when
+the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough to be provided
+with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and
+attention will not be necessary.
+
+Melons.--To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.
+
+Peaches.--When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue
+syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, to produce a moist, but not
+too damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh
+air is indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable
+opportunity; and if the cold external air could be made to pass over
+the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in
+contact with the blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly
+kept up until the fruit is fairly set.
+
+Pines.--Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially
+those that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more
+water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate
+during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until
+evening, it should be drawn away by means of a syringe having a long
+and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to
+the point of a small stick.
+
+Strawberries.--When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a
+little liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and
+perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there
+is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface
+of the soil to be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near
+the glass.
+
+Vines.--Continue the treatment as advised last week.
+
+Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and
+Rhubarb.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias,
+and Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed
+forward to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger
+from frost is over.
+
+
+
+
+FEBRUARY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and
+the small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough,
+with a liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept
+rather close until they make fresh roots.
+
+Azaleas (Indian).--Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted
+before starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat
+and sand, with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature
+between 60° and 70° to be maintained, with plenty of air in
+favourable weather. Sow seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle
+bottom heat.
+
+Kalosanthes.--To be started into growth, potting them in a compost
+of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed
+leaf mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of
+charcoal and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to
+be given, and to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Select young plants of the Boronias and other
+such families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good
+fibrous heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of
+drainage. It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off
+the tops of the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome
+specimens.
+
+Orange Trees.--Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed
+from them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin
+to grow, as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean
+without injury.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount
+of atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an
+advance to be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar
+heat can be enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial
+atmosphere.
+
+Crinums.--Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the
+ball of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of
+heat to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be
+liberally supplied with water.
+
+Gloriosa superba.--Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous
+loam, with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No
+water to be applied to the tubers until they have commenced their
+growth.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet
+Brier, and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable
+and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65° to 70° to be
+maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have
+made three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with
+liquid manure.
+
+Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the
+reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled
+their pots with roots.
+
+Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of
+the year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees
+several times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all
+weathers until the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to
+the early house, when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to
+leave one-third more on the trees than will be required to ripen
+off. If Peaches are intended to be grown in pots for next season,
+the maiden plants should now be procured, and potted in nine or ten
+inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach and _Violette Hâtive_ Nectarine
+are the most eligible for that purpose.
+
+Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the
+surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove
+them. The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house
+or pit as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we
+would not advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of
+starting them into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are
+good, healthy plants, they will have formed their fructiferous parts
+before this time, and therefore should not be allowed to get dry,
+but be watered when they require it with tepid water.
+
+Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all
+respects the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be
+increased in accordance with the increase of light rather more
+rapidly at an early stage of their growth than that of the house in
+which forcing was commenced in December. When Vines for the early
+crops are grown in pots, put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge
+them in a dung-frame or pit, with a bottom heat between 70° and 80°.
+The _Hamburghs_, _Black Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweetwater_ are
+the kinds to be preferred for that purpose.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter,
+now begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all
+others that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the
+better enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check
+or hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to
+be considered the most favourable season for a general shift,
+nevertheless it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once
+or twice during their season of growth.
+
+Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and
+cutting back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots
+is desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider,
+as they are more liable than other plants to be infested by them.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse
+plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove
+plants.
+
+Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil,
+consisting of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general
+rule they are repotted in February and August; but exceptions are
+sometimes made, and a shift is given whenever the roots become
+cramped or matted in the pot. The knife to be used cautiously,
+unless with the tall-growing sorts.
+
+Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight
+ago. When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil,
+and give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil
+will be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little
+may be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they
+advance in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where
+the temperature is about 60°.
+
+Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half
+turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with
+good drainage.
+
+Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam,
+vegetable soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand,
+with plenty of drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a
+bark-bed, and to keep the roots moist.
+
+Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the
+warmest part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be
+supplied with a little fresh material, taking care that the embryo
+buds are not covered. Look over the fastenings of all that are on
+blocks, or in baskets, and renew the wires where necessary. The
+temperature to be about 65° by day, allowing it to range to 70° or
+75° by sun-heat.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50° to 55° while the trees
+are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not in
+flower to be frequently syringed.
+
+Cucumbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of
+the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the
+heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being,
+as it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer,
+which is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in
+the frame; cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will
+allow it, a small portion of air should be left on every night,
+which may be given in the evening after the frame has been closed
+for two or three hours. Keep up the heat by stirring, renewing, or
+topping-up the linings; and attend to the stopping of the plants,
+and the earthing-up of the hills, as the roots make their appearance
+on the surface.
+
+Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully
+expanded.
+
+Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if
+growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed
+with soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or
+a little above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in
+clear, mild weather as soon as the fruit is set.
+
+Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong,
+healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring them,
+leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if
+unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely
+away, and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive
+and healthy, and potting them in fresh soil.
+
+Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in
+a gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks.
+
+Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless
+buds and branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in
+regularly, and the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left
+on each Vine than it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About
+one dozen bunches are a good average crop for each rod. The
+temperature to range from 55° to 60° at night, with an increase of
+5° to 10° during the day, and even higher during sunshine.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged,
+cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other
+considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season of
+blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer.
+Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all
+other such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then
+kept close for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly
+to be kept down.
+
+Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes,
+and all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for
+bedding-out purposes.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days
+lengthen. Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias,
+and Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in,
+and started in the same manner.
+
+Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high
+temperature causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable
+to keep up a healthy atmosphere of from 55° to 65°, with an increase
+of a few degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for
+a very short time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid
+draughts at this early period of the year. All growing plants to be
+watered at the roots only, being careful not to allow any water to
+lodge in the axils of the leaves to cause decay. To preserve the
+roots of some Orchids in a healthy state it is necessary to grow
+them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made proportionate to the
+specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel of the plant to be
+placed close to the end of the log, to give as much space as
+possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well on
+blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_,
+_Phalænopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Brassavolas,
+the Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Lælias, and
+nearly all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the
+Schombergias.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the
+fruit blossom when open.
+
+Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of
+air are excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with
+water, and the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.
+
+Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be
+done gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and
+injurious change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of
+moisture to be kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55° to 65°
+and 70° by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in
+bloom; the bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy
+setters, to be artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil
+for that purpose.
+
+Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in
+raising the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning
+temperature is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they
+require it, and to be syringed overhead in the morning and evening
+of every clear day unless the plants are in bloom, or ripening their
+fruit. Any crowns, suckers, or small plants not well established
+will do well in a pit or frame on a bed of leaves, or well sweetened
+dung, where they will make a rapid and vigorous growth during the
+summer.
+
+Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all
+laterals, &c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all
+the principal shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow
+the head or hand to touch the berries. Give them plenty of
+air-moisture during their swelling season; to be discontinued when
+they begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black
+Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_, &c.--will set better by thinning
+the blossom-buds before expansion, by which a more regular and
+compact bunch will be produced. Late Vines should be pruned and
+dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be removed, which will
+retard their breaking, and benefit the trees.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these
+houses, and then particular attention must be given to the New
+Holland plants, Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat,
+that they do not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is
+thoroughly moistened at least once a-week.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums,
+Maurandyas, Rodochitons, and Tropæolums, deserve attention at this
+time, increasing them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also
+worthy of attention, such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas,
+Schizanthuses, with others which may all be forwarded in heat.
+Whoever has not yet attended to the propagation of plants for
+bedding out, should now begin, without further delay, to put in
+cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias, Salvias,
+Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May and June. All
+straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy
+plants.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back,
+such as the _Eranthemum pulchellum_, _Euphorbia jacquiniæflora_,
+_Geissomeria longiflora_, _Gesnera lateritia_, Justicias, _Linum
+trigynum_, _Poinsettia pulcherrima_, and others. A bottom heat will
+be necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about
+three weeks or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they
+require shifting, to be attended to. The condition or fitness for
+this must, in a great measure, be determined by the progress the
+shoots and roots have made.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes,
+Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks,
+Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last year's young
+Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and _Salvia patens_, to be shaken out,
+repotted, and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe
+Amaranths, &c.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping,
+set the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames
+watered with warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots.
+Water overhead on fine days, shutting up with 75° or 80° of heat.
+
+Cherries.--They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all
+times except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable
+occasions, shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep
+down the green fly and look well after caterpillars.
+
+Figs.--Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead,
+except on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the
+fruit to drop off or to turn yellow.
+
+Peaches.--Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they
+advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not
+wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of
+the temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their
+fruit. Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and
+disbudding, merely sufficient wood for next spring.
+
+Pines.--The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the
+fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking
+care that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants.
+The plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with
+clean soot water, air to be admitted on every favourable
+opportunity, but cold draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept
+up in succession-pits worked with linings.
+
+Strawberries.--To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and
+in favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure
+water, and the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred.
+
+Vines.--As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning
+process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to
+induce a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be
+properly trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All
+small bunches to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set,
+the heat by day may be allowed to rise from 70° to 80°. See to the
+border coverings, if out-doors, as also border waterings, if
+in-doors. Be careful when admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid
+cold currents and changes, for in the space of an hour we have
+sometimes strong sunshine, sleet or snow, and cutting winds. Vines
+in pots to be supplied with plenty of manure water in all stages of
+growth, but especially when swelling off their fruit.
+
+
+
+
+MARCH.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of
+air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and
+also to temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side.
+If severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used
+in consequence, many plants that may appear all right may,
+nevertheless, be very dry, and if they are not examined, and when
+very dry, well soaked with water, they will soon show unmistakeable
+signs of approaching death.
+
+Azaleas (Indian).--Young plants that have commenced their growth to
+be repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them
+in a warm, moist situation.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould,
+with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth
+in foliage.
+
+Heaths.--Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy
+heath-soil full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure
+that the ball is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly
+dry when that operation is performed the waterings afterwards given
+will pass freely through the fresh soil without penetrating the old
+ball. Give them all the air possible, avoiding north or north-east
+winds.
+
+Potting must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the
+occupants of these houses.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as
+briskly as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in
+growth is advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check
+the increase of insects.
+
+Orchids.--The general collection to be favoured with a good
+steaming every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done
+by sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing
+state to be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a
+perspiration during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are
+generally increased by passing a sharp knife between the
+pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave at least two or three undisturbed
+next the growing shoots) so as to sever one or more of the dormant
+bulbs from the parent plant, which should remain until it shows
+signs of growth, when it may be taken off and potted.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom,
+plenty of air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up
+with a little extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days.
+
+Figs.--Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure
+may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause
+the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to
+be stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop.
+
+Melons.--Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to
+the linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry
+atmosphere when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin.
+
+Peaches.--Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young
+shoots, disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the
+border is necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious
+errors may be made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or
+by giving too much. The temperature of the early house to be from
+55° to 60° by night, ranging from 75° to 80° by sun heat, and
+allowing 65° by artificial heat, on dull days.
+
+Pines.--A day temperature of 75° to 80° to be maintained during the
+progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric
+moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat,
+and to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy
+action of the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright
+sunshine.
+
+Vines.--As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the
+heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or
+haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The
+moss or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe,
+will keep the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently
+induce a mass of roots to be produced there. That by watering
+occasionally with liquid manure will contribute to sustain the
+vigour of the trees.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur at
+this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant
+sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention
+is necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state,
+may be given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds
+excluded. Frequent watering will also be necessary, and fires to be
+dispensed with, or only used occasionally, merely to ward off the
+rigour of sharp nights. The plants in good health, and well rooted,
+to receive a liberal shift. All plants when shifted to be
+accommodated with a little extra heat and moisture in the atmosphere
+until they begin to make fresh roots, when they will require to be
+more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy, vigorous growth.
+
+Camellias.--The plants that have finished flowering to be removed
+to a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by
+frequent syringings.
+
+Cinerarias.--Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to
+form handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house
+to be given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into
+larger pots as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of
+air, light, and room.
+
+Fuchsias.--They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist
+temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the
+syringe, to make them large pyramidal specimens.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Attention to be paid to their training, to watering,
+and to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all
+that may be wanted for late blooming.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as
+possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during
+the day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the
+bottom heat ranges from 70° to 80°.
+
+Orchids will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of
+wood with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be
+supplied to those in pots in a growing state.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding,
+tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing
+morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of
+solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to
+obtain satisfactory results.
+
+Cherries.--Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as
+either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop.
+
+Cucumbers.--The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline
+rapidly during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and
+air to be given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape,
+taking care to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing
+a mat or canvass before the openings.
+
+Figs.--A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to
+be given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience,
+the trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves
+into which they root, and where they are allowed to remain until
+they have borne their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots
+are cut back to the pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined
+in brick pits, where short-jointed fruitful wood is produced
+without root pruning, which is necessary when the roots are allowed
+to ramble without control.
+
+Melons.--This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will
+have a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be
+most wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow
+seed for a succession.
+
+Pines.--Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be
+supplied with soot or other manure water occasionally during the
+whole time they are swelling the fruit until they attain their full
+size; watering and syringing overhead should be withheld when they
+begin to change colour, to give flavour to the fruit. The
+succession-plants recently potted to be very moderately supplied
+with manure water, and in a very diluted state until their roots
+reach the sides of the pots.
+
+Strawberries.--Introduce succession-plants under glass, according
+to the demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom
+and near the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of
+fresh air without currents.
+
+Vines.--Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to
+leave more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to
+perfection. The borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be
+maintained at the roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply
+good soakings of manure water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the
+late Vines as soon as the bunches are perceptible.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the
+hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in
+good time to acquire a vigorous growth.
+
+Cacti.--The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them
+an alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of
+lime rubbish and loam, with a little cowdung, and in well-drained
+pots. In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered;
+and from October to March to be kept perfectly dry.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots in a
+compost of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy
+peat, old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss
+on the crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be
+freely given, avoiding currents of cold air.
+
+Heaths.--Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be
+stopped, to produce a more uniform and compact plant.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--To be potted either in a good peat, with a
+little silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver
+sand. The bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of
+the pot to allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The
+house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them
+to push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have
+not been stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their
+trusses, on sunny days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up
+warm, with the sun upon it, about three or four o'clock in the
+afternoon.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a
+plentiful supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80°
+or more, allowing a fall of 20° during the night. Shake out and
+repot in succession the stove plants that have been previously
+recommended to be headed back, and encourage a free growth by
+plunging them, if possible, in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used
+until they have filled them with roots, they may then receive one
+bold shift that might probably be sufficient for the season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the
+operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the
+action of the roots. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere like fine
+mild weather in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit,
+give the trees no water at the roots, as this is generally one of
+the chief causes of so much of it falling off at that time.
+
+Figs.--When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally
+supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or five
+eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up
+vacancies.
+
+Melons.--Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &c., as
+required. Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and
+lively atmosphere during that period. Air to be given freely in
+favourable weather, but cautiously, with some contrivance to break
+cold winds. Do not allow a plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently
+strong to sustain it.
+
+Peaches.--Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that
+are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the
+period)--say 65° by day and 60° by night; but when they commence
+their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant
+shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when
+about the size of Peas.
+
+Pines.--The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with
+manure water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if
+recently shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun
+is powerful; to be kept rather close and dry, except slight
+sprinklings over the tops, until they have taken root, when they may
+be watered freely, and will generally require no more to be given
+for a week or ten days.
+
+Vines.--The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have
+been thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and
+moisture. The night temperature to be kept up to 65°, with an
+increase of 10° by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second
+house may now be in bloom, and will require attention in tying the
+shoots and keeping up the necessary amount of heat, with less
+moisture. Where the fruit is set, give the Vines a good syringing,
+to wash off the flowers; after which the leaves and fruit should not
+be again wetted, but to be supplied with atmospheric moisture by
+watering the floor of the house, and sprinkling the flues or pipes,
+or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of tepid manure
+water to the Vines fruiting in pots.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or
+are in active growth, constant attention will be required for the
+judicious regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh
+air during fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water
+to the roots, and atmospheric moisture.
+
+When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which
+inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in
+proper condition for the growing season. No fear need then be
+apprehended from potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling,
+&c., and admit plenty of air, bearing in mind former directions as
+to draughts, &c. If the plants in the borders, or any of the
+climbers, are dry, give them a good soaking of weak, tepid manure
+water. Trellis climbers to be frequently attended to--stopping,
+training, and arranging their shoots.
+
+Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender
+annuals by potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the
+side of the pot.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the
+plants well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots
+up to the lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh
+rootlets from the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly.
+
+Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops
+of gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained.
+
+Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show
+flower.
+
+Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck.
+
+Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots,
+according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by
+placing them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as
+soon as they are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature
+similar to that in which they were struck.
+
+Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy
+circulation of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove
+plants. Continue to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last
+week, those which have been flowering through the winter. To be then
+favoured with a bottom heat of from 75° to 80°, and slightly shaded
+during bright sunshine.
+
+Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for
+specimens will probably require a second shift, see to them in time;
+and if they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a
+large shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air
+at all favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with
+moisture. The surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week,
+and sprinkle it occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist,
+congenial atmosphere about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun
+heat. Look sharply after mealy-bug and thrips.
+
+Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed
+into the flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan.
+
+Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them,
+as they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much
+water over those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may
+damp off. Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails.
+_Calantha veratifolia_, _Neottia picta_, _N. elata_, Phaius of
+sorts, some varieties of Stanhopea, _Zygopetaltum Mackayii_, and
+other such Orchids that are now making their growth, would be
+benefited by an application of clear, diluted manure water
+occasionally; a kindly humidity to be kept up, and the shading to be
+in readiness for use during bright mid-day sun.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give
+air daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot
+off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias,
+Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal
+supply of manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them.
+
+Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the
+temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to
+be liberally supplied.
+
+Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give
+a little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off,
+when they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As
+soon as the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame,
+never allow any of the laterals to grow more than two joints before
+being stopped. Stop frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit
+show at a joint pinch one away.
+
+Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the
+walls exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.
+
+Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close,
+moist heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The
+plants that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air
+at every favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful
+wood. The shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that
+are not wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65°, and air to
+be admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75°; but to be given
+very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of
+young plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong
+and vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when
+they require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the
+beds by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated
+in accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats
+do not hang over either the front or back of the frames.
+
+Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that
+have been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water;
+sprinkle the floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The
+conditions of success are to have the materials for making the beds
+well prepared and sweet--that is, free from rank steam, and the
+spawn to be put in whilst the heat keeps regular and moderate, and
+the beds are coated over to keep it so until the spawn is well
+established.
+
+Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those
+that are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning,
+leaving more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is
+liable to drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where
+it is intended to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season,
+and some suitable trees have to be provided, it should be no longer
+postponed. It is a good plan to pot some maiden plants every year,
+to succeed any that may become useless.
+
+Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water,
+and a humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80° to 85°
+during the day, and as near 70° as possible at night; the
+succession-pits from 75° to 80° during day, and 60° to 65° at night.
+These particulars to be modified by the state of the weather,
+whether sunny or dull.
+
+Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their
+fruit, when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove,
+or any other house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The
+plants swelling their fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a
+sprinkling overhead daily. When the fruit begins to change colour
+the sprinkling to be dispensed with, and the supply of water at the
+roots to be given sparingly.
+
+Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air,
+accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention
+to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming
+the borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present
+under the influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice
+as to tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the
+fruit in the succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set.
+When thinning be as careful as possible of the bunches--neither
+pull them about with the hand, by which rust on the berries is
+frequently produced, nor with whatever the shoulders may be held up
+by at the time of thinning, as, by the twisting of the stalks,
+shanking is not unfrequently produced. Attention to be given in
+stopping all laterals, and breaking off all useless shoots for the
+more free admission of light, which is most beneficial in every
+stage of their growth. Look over houses where the fruit is swelling,
+and see if any of the bunches would be improved by tying up the
+shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should be
+inarched before the wood gets too old.
+
+
+
+
+APRIL.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses
+have been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the
+sooner they are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere,
+sprinkling the plants with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and
+pay attention to the destruction of insects the moment you can
+perceive them.
+
+Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to
+syringe them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and
+maintaining a kindly humidity during the time they are making their
+growth.
+
+Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth,
+and shade slightly during bright sunshine.
+
+Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling
+growth to be stopped.
+
+Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing
+of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias,
+Dillwynias, Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas,
+Polygalas, &c., a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the
+young growth as it may require it; keep them clean, and repot them
+when necessary.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss
+of time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will
+feed greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of
+the pot. Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of
+air, using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe
+frequently air plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if
+possible, of 80° towards three or four o'clock.
+
+Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for
+succession.
+
+Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be
+reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some
+time afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before;
+and also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_,
+_Justicias_, _Linums_, &c.
+
+Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.
+
+Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere
+for a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied
+until that period, and then with moderation.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such
+plants from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and
+autumn decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set,
+the temperature may be raised to 60° by day and 50° by night, and
+syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp
+look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle
+in them destroyed.
+
+Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally
+with water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye.
+Temperature, 65° by day and 55° by night.
+
+Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state
+of the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes
+show one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which
+should be picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of
+others. The vines, or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and
+when they have nearly filled the frame, or other allotted space,
+several fruit should be impregnated at one time. Sow for
+successional crop.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the
+shoots as they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance,
+fumigate the house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them
+in tobacco water. When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin
+them to the number you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors,
+which is better than pulling them off.
+
+Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and,
+therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants
+may now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting
+those that are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from
+80° to 85° during day, and from 65° to 70° at night. The successions
+from 75° to 80° by day, and from 65° to 70° at night.
+
+Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of
+water, syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.
+
+Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines
+in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now
+commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable
+opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which
+frequently cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the
+later houses, attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The
+last house to be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most
+cases, will be considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe
+frequently; to apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and
+to postpone the application of fire-heat as long as possible.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the
+greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost.
+It will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other
+such plants.
+
+Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their
+fresh growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a
+short time.
+
+Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants
+making wood, with a temperature of about 65° by day and 55° by
+night. Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy,
+short-jointed wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright
+sunshine.
+
+Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may
+not suffer by want of water.
+
+Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in
+pots which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas,
+Thunbergias, Nierembergias, Tropæolums, and other such plants of a
+slender and tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion
+being composed of leaf mould.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers.
+
+Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention
+without delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of
+their growth; as the free-growing kinds will require more room than
+the less vigorous ones.
+
+New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or
+approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger
+quantity of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted
+since last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading
+shoots, to produce bushy plants.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and
+fumigating, if the green fly appears.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the
+free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing;
+using shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted,
+give less water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first
+watering will be moist enough for some time. Some of the
+free-growing kinds of Cattleyas, Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums,
+Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should be encouraged to make kindly
+growth by frequent syringings about their pots, blocks, or baskets.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The principal objects to be attended to are--abundance
+of air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist
+atmosphere, and the free application of the syringe. The temperature
+the same as last week. Particular attention in watering to be paid
+to the trees in pots,--as too much is as bad as, if not worse than,
+too little.
+
+Figs.--Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth
+eye. Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to
+change for ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak
+tepid liquid manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when
+they are confined in pots or tubs.
+
+Melons.--As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a
+crop are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of
+each other, they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than
+cure, keep the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent
+syringings in fine weather, and closing early; insects will but
+rarely, if ever, attack thriving plants.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the
+early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak
+liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all
+laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin
+them; as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an
+earlier period of the season.
+
+Pine Apples.--Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong
+solar heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid;
+therefore, water must be applied to both roots and leaves.
+Succession plants to be shaded during sudden bright sunshine or
+sunbursts; and be guided in the application of water by the active
+or inactive state of the roots.
+
+Vines.--Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance.
+The first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of
+Peas; the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after
+the berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches
+long, crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and
+forward, as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to
+be tied up as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine
+afternoon, and close the house early. Give air early in the morning,
+that the leaves may become gradually dry before the sun acts
+powerfully upon them.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the
+health of the plants. By such means they will remain longer in
+bloom, and will be more enjoyable for parties inspecting them.
+
+Camellias.--Continue to encourage the growth of those that have
+done flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent
+syringings, and by a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any
+have made their growth, and have formed their blossom-buds, they
+will require more light and less moisture for the future.
+
+Cinerarias.--To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is
+necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for
+want of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful,
+slight shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the
+day, to prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty
+of air to be given when the weather is mild.
+
+Fuchsias.--Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture,
+they will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into
+their blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Top and syringe frequently all such plants as
+are growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it
+in due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance)
+may be given to plants that are well established with roots and
+showing their trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for
+each plant to develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading
+only when there is a fear of scorching from the usual sudden
+sunbursts of April weather. Ply the syringe every fine evening to
+refresh the plants, and to keep down insects, until the flowers
+expand, when syringing should be discontinued.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth.
+Allow no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist
+atmosphere. Give air when the thermometer indicates 90°. Continue to
+shift Gesneras, Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants,
+as they require it. The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the
+Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias, Phaiuses, Sobralias,
+Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now be growing freely,
+and will therefore require a considerable amount of atmospheric
+moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little management
+in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside shading, and
+will give an additional feature of interest to the house. The plants
+on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very frequent
+syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants in bloom
+may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a drier
+atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--When they begin to change they will require free
+exposure to light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour;
+and, at the same time, a diminution in the supply of water.
+Carefully examine all curled leaves, and destroy the grubs they
+contain. If the trees are very luxuriant, and are making strong
+foreright shoots, stop them to within a few buds of the main
+branch.
+
+Figs.--Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they
+are swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and
+thin out any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely.
+
+Melons.--Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in
+very hot weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession
+crops.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--When the fruit in the early house has gone
+through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should
+take place; the borders--if inside, or out, or both--should be
+copiously supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a
+weak habit, from poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be
+necessary. Syringings to be given twice a-day--early in the morning
+and at shutting-up time. The night temperature to be no more than
+50°; but during the day it may range to 85°, if accompanied with air
+in liberal quantities.
+
+Pine Apples.--Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when
+they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist
+atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn
+out the plants, if preferred.
+
+Strawberries.--They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65°
+to 70° by day, and 55° to 60° by night; succession crops rather
+cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems, and
+thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of
+runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air.
+
+Vines.--Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few
+berries may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the
+time of their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature--about 75°
+by day and 60° by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in
+course of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In
+later houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the
+heat be moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all
+favourable opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near
+the light.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove,
+forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming
+season, will require particular care to be taken in the application
+of water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to
+stop, prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due
+time. Stir the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply
+fresh soil, to maintain the plants in good health.
+
+Azaleas, Chinese.--Supply them liberally with water at their roots
+during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from
+injuring the bloom.
+
+Calceolarias.--The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in
+a gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be
+grown in a cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being
+too much drawn. Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping
+the plants well down in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets
+from the stem. Cuttings taken off now will root readily in a gentle
+bottom heat.
+
+Camellias.--Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect
+the young leaves.
+
+Fuchsias.--Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use
+the syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be
+long-jointed, to produce uniform and bushy plants.
+
+Heaths.--Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded
+plants that are now in bloom, or approaching that state.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late
+blooming should now be stopped.
+
+Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian.--Treat as advised for _Azaleas_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly
+increase the temperature. Shade with tiffany, or close-meshed
+netting, in bright sunny weather; removing it early in the
+afternoon. Water liberally all that are making free growth. Repot
+any that may require it as soon as they have fairly commenced their
+growth. Continue to give liberal shifts to the free-growing young
+stock of stove plants, slightly shading for a few hours in hot
+weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and producing a kindly
+humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots, &c.
+
+Begonias.--Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful
+tribe of plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the
+adornment of the conservatory.
+
+Clerodendrons.--Encourage by a moist heat.
+
+Climbers.--Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies
+of water, if in pots.
+
+Gardenias.--They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung
+linings is most congenial to them.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Pot bulbs for late flowering.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty
+of air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in
+tubs, or pots, to become dry.
+
+Figs.--The same as last week.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--Keep the leading shoots regularly tied
+in, and pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones.
+
+Pine Apples.--It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or
+have already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit,
+that more air may be admitted to them than to the others more
+advanced, to produce a more robust growth, and to avoid the
+necessity of using stakes to support the fruit. Air to be admitted
+freely to the succession plants at every favourable opportunity.
+
+Strawberries (in pots).--Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather
+dry atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure
+flavour. When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and
+the atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid
+currents of frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass
+according to the demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has
+been picked to the open air till well hardened off. Give them the
+protection of a cold pit for a time, as they are invaluable in
+open-air plantations.
+
+Vines.--Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on
+every favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the
+morning before the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed
+vapour, which would affect them injuriously, from settling on the
+bunches. Attend to stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots,
+tying in leaders, &c., in the later houses. Remove the top dressing
+from the outside border, to allow the increasing power of the sun to
+act beneficially upon it.
+
+
+
+
+MAY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger
+pots; and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose
+habit of growth, to make them compact and bushy.
+
+Azaleas.--As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to
+make their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them
+occasionally with manure water, and shade for a short time in the
+middle of the day when the sun is powerful.
+
+Calceolarias.--Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade
+those in bloom.
+
+Cinerarias.--When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the
+development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame.
+
+Climbers.--Keep all neatly trained.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The late-flowering sorts, or such
+as have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another
+season, may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as
+require it must be shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular
+attention being paid that they do not get dry at the root.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such
+as are wanted to flower late.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in
+correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early
+in the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice
+stove plants, and keep all free from insects.
+
+Achimenes.--Pot off.
+
+Begonias.--Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, pruning in
+any straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them
+close, and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing.
+Keep them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to
+expand. The following are good sorts:--Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina,
+Fuchsioides, Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma.
+
+Gloxinias.--Repot where necessary.
+
+Succulents.--Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited
+into vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and
+moisture.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--Temperature 65° to 70° by day and 50° at night, and give
+plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold.
+
+Figs.--Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use
+the syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in
+the afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening,
+the syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier;
+but, as there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water
+must not be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening,
+as it would endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more
+sparingly.
+
+Melons.--Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is
+safely set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure
+water. Let swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the
+light.
+
+Peaches.--Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both
+increase the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom
+of the tree. The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the
+same purpose, and to keep down insects. Air and light to be
+admitted, to give flavour and colouring to the ripening fruit.
+
+Pines.--The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be
+treated with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot
+water, or both combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in
+foliage and growth, with the caution that it be given in a warm,
+clear state, and not too strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm
+afternoons, and close up with a temperature of 85° or 90°; giving
+air again towards evening. When indications of ripening by changing
+colour appear, desist from the use of the syringe, and give them no
+further supplies at the root.
+
+Strawberries.--When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a
+frame where a free admission of air can be given.
+
+Vines.--Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next
+year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of
+pot room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some
+of the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as
+they advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and
+other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a
+brisk day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of
+blooming, and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction
+to a night-temperature of 65° or 68°, to suit the other varieties.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid
+atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted.
+Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them,
+before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for
+bedding out, and let them remain for a short time under the
+protection of a cold frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at
+night with mats, or other such protecting materials. This
+gradually-hardening-off will better enable them to withstand
+unfavourable weather, if it should occur after they are planted out.
+
+Azaleas.--All irregularities of growth should be corrected by
+pruning. We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning
+on such plants; they had been cut in severely last season by
+removing strong, straggling branches of old wood, to give some a
+spherical and others a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was
+reduced, the plant fresh potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the
+peat soil rammed as hard as it was possible to make it; then
+watered, and introduced to heat. The plants treated in that manner
+are now covered with bloom, and in a high state of vigour.
+
+Heaths.--Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Some of them of weak growth, and which
+naturally make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending
+down the branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string
+attached to the rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the
+plant at its base is hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of
+the sap will induce an increased supply of shoots. Pick off the
+seed-pods as the plants go out of bloom. Cut back and arrange the
+shoots in the best manner, to produce compact growth.
+
+Pelargoniums.--All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross
+habit, will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure
+water. For that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and
+to one peck add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When
+taking it for use draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering
+twice a week. Give air freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants
+overhead till the flowers expand, when syringing should be
+discontinued. As the petals are apt to drop very soon in hot
+weather, it is recommended to touch the centre of the flower with a
+camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum water, which will
+stick the petals together and prolong the blooming. Such is the
+general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such
+plants as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent
+attention to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently,
+to regulate their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of
+trouble and confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as
+Brugmansias, Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias,
+and those winter-flowering plants _Euphorbia jaquiniflora_ and the
+_Gesnera bulbosa_. Where there is only one house in which to grow
+Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must be made to suit the
+natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady woods of the East, and
+those which inhabit high and airy regions in the Western hemisphere.
+To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free circulation of
+air during the early part of the day, with an abundance of
+atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a
+high degree of temperature.
+
+Achimenes.--They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded
+situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The
+shoots to be staked out neatly.
+
+Gesneras to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light.
+
+Gloxinias.--The same as _Achimenes_.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the
+fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their
+fruit. Keep them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little
+value.
+
+Figs.--Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid
+wetting the fruit when it begins to soften.
+
+Melons.--Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the
+linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep
+the foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be
+produced. When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in
+them with a little assistance from dung heat at bottom.
+
+Peaches.--Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees,
+the fruit of which are ripening.
+
+Pines.--Continue the previous instructions in the management of the
+plants in the different stages of growth.
+
+Vines.--Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good
+time. Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of
+_Muscats_, _West's St. Peter's_, and other shy setters. Be sure that
+inside borders are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient
+quantities to thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn
+decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and
+water.
+
+Azaleas.--Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely
+potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure.
+
+Camellias.--Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat
+amongst all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the
+supply of water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from
+flagging, will induce the production of blossom-buds.
+
+Epacris.--Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts
+that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath
+soil, rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for
+some time after being newly shifted, require particular attention in
+watering, that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be
+placed in a cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine.
+The stopping or pinching out the points of strong shoots must be
+regularly attended to during their growing season, to establish a
+uniformity of sturdy growth.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--All that have flowered, and have
+made their season's growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames,
+to allow those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air,
+sun and light.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at
+favourable opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very
+freely, and should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to
+stopping, training, &c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot
+room, and allow them all the sunshine they will bear without
+scorching; also, allow them sufficient space for the development of
+their foliage. Plenty of moisture is now requisite to encourage a
+free growth in Orchids, to get their pseudo-bulbs firm, well
+nourished, and ripened in good time. Free ventilation in favourable
+weather and a slight shading in bright sunshine are also requisites
+for their healthy growth.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even
+to the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather.
+Fires may be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very
+cold.
+
+Figs.--Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth;
+discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They
+frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots.
+
+Melons.--If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants,
+they will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is
+swelling off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants
+overhead, and to shut up early every fine afternoon with a good
+heat. Lay the fruit on a tile or piece of slate.
+
+Peaches.--When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen,
+admit air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the
+lights entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct
+influence of the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained.
+Continue to stop all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young
+wood. Some persons lay in plenty of young wood to select from in
+winter pruning; but fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over
+the tree, is best attained by the judicious and successive thinning
+of useless shoots during their growing season. Continue to tie in
+the shoots of the late houses.
+
+Pineries.--When the repotting of the plants has recently taken
+place it will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright
+sunshine, for a few days; but for the general stock shading should
+be dispensed with as much as possible--as short, stiff leaves and
+sturdy growth are best attained by judicious airings and humidity.
+Do not water much at the root immediately after repotting. Maintain
+a brisk bottom heat to the succession plants. Admit plenty of air
+during favourable weather.
+
+Vineries.--As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is
+advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to
+retain and to preserve with the greatest care the principal
+leaves--as the good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition
+of the tree for the ensuing season will depend upon the number and
+healthy state of the principal leaves.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a
+liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight
+shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days.
+
+Azaleas, Chinese.--When done blooming, they succeed best in a close
+pit, kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the
+day. If they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery,
+or in any other large house where they can stand at a distance from
+the glass without shading.
+
+Balsams and Cockscombs.--Promote their growth by shifting them
+into larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the
+glass, and heat.
+
+Camellias to be treated as advised for _Azaleas_.
+
+Geraniums.--If any remain after the flower-garden masses are
+furnished, they should be potted and treated with every attention as
+to watering, &c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow
+freely, to be stopped, to make bushy plants. _Calceolarias_,
+_Fuchsias_, _Petunias_, _Verbenas_, &c., treated in a similar
+manner, will be useful as a reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants
+that are now in bloom, and to fill up vacancies as they occur in the
+beds and borders.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Many being now in full growth will
+require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather.
+Many fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering;
+for if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours
+to restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Ornamental stove plants--such as Brugmansias, Centradenias,
+Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras,
+Justicias, Poinsettias, &c., to be supplied with clear liquid
+manure, and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the
+free-growing plants will require shifting occasionally. The great
+object should be to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to
+secure luxuriant foliage at the right season, when there will be
+more time for the wood to be properly matured for winter. The
+syringings to be given early in the afternoon, that the plants may
+get dry before night.
+
+Achimenes.--When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine
+effect.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the
+fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling
+their fruit. Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free
+from insects.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck,
+the cuttings should be put in at once.
+
+Cucumbers.--Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for
+ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the
+ball of earth is well soaked with water before planting.
+
+Figs.--Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with
+abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is
+ripening.
+
+Peaches.--Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to
+the ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether
+from the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the
+inside borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour
+that arises may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if
+dry, should also be watered as far as the roots extend, and then
+mulched, to prevent evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the
+early-forced trees have naked branches, some of the earliest-made
+wood may be taken from the trees, and buds inserted from it in the
+barren parts. Buds inserted now may start into growth in July, and
+be stopped when about six inches long, to get the wood well ripened.
+
+Pines.--A bottom heat from 80° to 85° must be kept up to the plants
+intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where
+practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to
+remain in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with
+water, and occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth
+of the suckers.
+
+Vines.--In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature
+may be allowed to rise to 90°, with sun heat, and to decline to 60°
+at night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be
+covetous to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad
+effects. Stop laterals, and use the syringe freely in the
+afternoons.
+
+
+
+
+JUNE.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Azalea Indica.--Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after
+they have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an
+abundance of water, and syringing freely.
+
+Calceolarias.--Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and
+remove them to a cold frame.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The young stock will now succeed
+best in a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass
+to be well washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes,
+above the ground level.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from
+scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late
+flowering.
+
+Petunias.--Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating
+pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums,
+Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours
+for the conservatory.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping.
+The Aërides, Dendrobiums, Phalænopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses,
+Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will
+now require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings.
+Gongoras, Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c., when full of roots in
+baskets, require a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot
+Cymbidiums, Peristerias, &c., starting into growth. Aërides, Vandas,
+and plants of a similar habit, do best when shifted after they have
+done blooming.
+
+Achimenes.--Continue to shift them, as also _Begonias_,
+_Clerodendrons_, _Gesneras_, &c., as requisite. Remove those in
+bloom to the greenhouse or conservatory.
+
+Climbers.--Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest
+of the plants to an injurious extent.
+
+Succulents.--Shift _Melocacti_, &c., and keep them growing, and
+near the glass.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has
+been lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an
+occasional supply of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing
+overhead with the syringe, or engine, dashing it on with
+considerable force. They will also require to have their wood
+matured early.
+
+Figs.--Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four
+or five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the
+second crop where too thick.
+
+Melons.--Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals.
+When the fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly
+moist state, and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat
+should not be allowed to sink below 75°.
+
+Peaches.--Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and
+moisture, and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and
+healthy. The ripening fruit will require plenty of air.
+
+Pines.--Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to
+remain in a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to
+start prematurely into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that
+the balls are thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give
+strength to the growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of
+air in the morning part of the day; and in the afternoon, to
+encourage a high degree of heat with an abundance of atmospheric
+moisture. The plants growing in open beds to be supplied with a
+steady bottom heat of from 80° to 85°, and sufficient water to the
+roots.
+
+Vines.--Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell
+rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in
+bloom to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the
+fruit is set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass
+of useless wood to remain on them.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an
+out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from
+high winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the
+worms cannot get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain
+should be turned round from time to time, that they may not get
+one-sided; and allow them to have plenty of room on all sides. Also,
+the young plants intended for specimens should have their
+flower-buds picked off, to encourage their growth.
+
+Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in
+bottom heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds
+to be picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size
+before they are allowed to bloom.
+
+Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have
+flowered; if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature
+having completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the
+plants down, and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold
+frame _facing the east_, the lights on during the day, with air, and
+entirely off during the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night
+dews are highly beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon
+produce new shoots, which must be taken off and pricked out into
+small pots in a very open soil, and placed in a very gentle bottom
+heat to strike. When rooted, to be shifted into pots of a larger
+size.
+
+Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be
+cut down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the
+old soil removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a
+sheltered situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in
+which the Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of
+the soil, in rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the
+row. When planted, to be well watered.
+
+Climbers.--The Passifloras, _Mandevilla suaveolens_, _Tecoma
+jasminoides_, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now
+be growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent
+attention to keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to
+grow in a natural manner, merely preventing them from getting too
+much entangled, or growing into masses.
+
+Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an
+abundance of water and frequent syringings. Train them in the
+desired form, and pinch back all weak and straggling shoots.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and
+be sure that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young
+plants which are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where
+they can be exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper
+foundation for a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train
+the shoots into form.
+
+Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and
+give them liquid manure occasionally.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To
+harden the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter
+flowering, it is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such
+as the shelves of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the
+Stanhopeas will now be blooming, should be carefully examined to see
+that the buds, as they protrude, may not be injured by contact with
+the side. Many stove plants and Orchids in flower, if taken to a
+late vinery, or such intermediate house, will thus be prepared, in a
+short time, for removal to the conservatory during the summer.
+
+Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging
+loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either
+hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and
+regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a
+confused mass of wood and foliage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather.
+
+Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a
+good syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to
+keep down insects.
+
+Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks,
+during bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the
+scorching of the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens
+prematurely, and is, in consequence, without flavour.
+
+Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible
+during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the
+lights open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give
+a good watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as
+previously advised.
+
+Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the
+fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow
+at the same time the thermometer to range from 90° to 95°. Shut up
+when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and
+ply the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and
+the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two
+afterwards for the night.
+
+Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they
+advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work
+to be done.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in
+showery weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage.
+The more delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected
+by some means during heavy rains.
+
+Camellias.--When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air
+night and day, with an occasional application of the syringe,
+keeping the paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing,
+and have formed their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the
+plants overhead, as it sometimes starts them into a fresh growth
+that will be the destruction of the flower-buds.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in
+an open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one
+stem, and others to be topped, to make them bushy.
+
+Cinerarias.--In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each
+parent plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour,
+and to place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should
+be carefully gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow
+pots, or pans, well drained with crocks; then some siftings, and
+over that some light soil, with some finer and more sandy on the
+surface, covering the seeds very lightly with the same; and slightly
+sprinkling, or watering, through a very fine rose, and the surface
+covered with a little moss, to prevent evaporation. In a few days
+the seedlings will be up; then remove the moss, and let them remain
+in the pots, or pans, until they are large enough to be handled with
+safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep close for a day or
+two.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--Give attention to them; as also to tree
+Carnations, _Salvia splendens_, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., for autumn
+and early winter flowering.
+
+Oranges.--The same as advised for _Camellias_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Achimenes.--Repot, as also _Begonias_ and _Gesneras_, for
+succession of late bloom.
+
+Luculia gratissima.--Propagate by cuttings.
+
+Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with
+fresh soil. The _Barkeria spectabilis_, _Epidendrum Skinneri_, the
+Lycastes, _Odontoglossum grande_, &c., will now enjoy the
+temperature of the conservatory.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Figs.--Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long.
+Never allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now
+require daily attention.
+
+Melons.--Shade them during bright sunshine for a few hours in the
+middle of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum,
+mixed with water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or
+frame, where the sun's rays may fall upon them.
+
+Peaches.--Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so.
+When the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the
+syringe. Those changing for ripening, if the trees are young and
+vigorous, to have a general stopping of the strong shoots all over
+the higher parts of the tree. To keep down red spider, it is
+advisable to wash the walls, pipes, or flues, with sulphur vivum
+reduced to the consistency of paint; or to paint some slates, tiles,
+or common saucers, with the mixture, and to place them in different
+parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon them.
+
+Pines.--If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well
+furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in
+a warm state, may be given with advantage to them.
+
+Strawberries.--As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a
+healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have
+emitted the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out
+on a rich piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or
+early Potatoes have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather
+is hot, they are more convenient to shade, and require less water.
+
+Vines.--When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood
+by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be
+gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and
+somewhat in the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop,
+not all at once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may
+be allowed to produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient
+room to lay them in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood,
+or shading the old leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned,
+their shoulders to be tied out, and every useless shoot to be
+removed. Keep the Vines in pots trained, and exposed to light, and
+apply weak liquid manure frequently.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants--such as Boronias,
+Epacrises, &c.--will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting
+in rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse
+plants will most probably require shifting, and should receive that
+attention now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a
+sharp look out for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and
+give the plants, if the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice
+a-week from the syringe or garden engine.
+
+New Holland Plants.--If any are retained in the house, let them be
+placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and
+at the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots;
+but if such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in
+another two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open
+ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they
+are cut down.
+
+Scarlet Geraniums.--To prepare them for winter blooming it is
+advisable to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out
+of doors and in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as
+they appear. To be carefully attended with water.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the
+floors, paths, &c., damp. Many of the stove plants--viz.,
+Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums,
+Pergularias, Stephanotises, &c.--may be removed to the conservatory,
+where the flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a
+longer period than if they had remained in the stove.
+
+Euphorbias.--Propagate _jacquiniæflora_ and _fulgens_, and grow
+them on a successional system of culture for furnishing the
+conservatory and stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Keep up a succession in various stages of
+growth, and place another batch of tubers in a pan.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in
+houses where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere
+cool and moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the
+engine, to keep down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy.
+
+Cherries.--When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit
+has been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely
+open. Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine.
+When the plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard
+bottom on the north side of a wall or fence.
+
+Melons.--Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without
+it a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most
+injurious effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the
+plants overhead occasionally.
+
+Peaches.--Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while
+the fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning,
+to prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early
+in the afternoon.
+
+Pines.--Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and
+give attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due
+time. By such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be
+secured for the fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants
+swelling their fruit to be also favoured with a high temperature, a
+moist atmosphere, and plenty of water, and occasionally manure water
+at the root. If worm-casts appear in any of the pots, water with
+lime-water in a clear state.
+
+Vines.--As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the
+ripe bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur
+must be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the
+use of the syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen.
+Check the growth of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final
+thinnings to the latest Grapes; and as they are frequently required
+for winter use, a good thinning should be given, as crowded bunches
+and berries will not keep late in the season.
+
+
+
+
+JULY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the
+conservatory should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure.
+Give all the air possible at this season, both night and day, and
+keep the house as neat and clean as possible. If it contains many
+tender stove plants, shut it up for an hour while the sun is on it
+in the evening, so as to produce a more genial atmosphere for them.
+
+Achimenes.--Encourage them, as also _Clerodendrons_, &c., to grow
+and to prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them
+with liquid manure, taking particular care not to give it too
+strong, especially at first.
+
+Cinerarias.--Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should
+also be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers
+for the purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they
+have made fresh growth.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Propagate some for blooming in small pots.
+
+Heaths.--Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become
+unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds--such
+as the _ventricosa_, &c.--do best in a sheltered situation in the
+open air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the
+woolly-leaved--such as _Masonii_, &c.--and hardwooded varieties
+delight in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for
+protection as necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted
+in the spring, and, if necessary, pot them without delay; but if
+they require to be cut in, to make them bushy, it will be best to
+let them break afresh before they are repotted.
+
+Leschenaultias.--If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to
+be repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times,
+and abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that
+were potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require
+more pot room.
+
+Ixoras.--Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air
+both night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue
+stopping them for the season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in
+tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy
+quarter, to make their wood for next season's bearing.
+
+Figs.--Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up
+their second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be
+useful. Pinch out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long.
+It should be a practice to manage the trees during the summer that
+nothing more than a slight thinning out should be wanted at the
+winter pruning.
+
+Melons.--Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out
+the shoots, stopping, &c.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--When all the fruit is gathered, and the
+wood seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite
+off, and place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to
+be given to the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop
+in succession many of the strong shoots about the period the last
+swelling commences. Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in
+the morning and again in the evening.
+
+Pines.--Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession
+plants, and during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every
+open space with moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants
+becoming brown. If such a practice be regularly adopted during hot,
+bright sunny weather, shading will seldom or never be necessary. Be
+at the same time particular in maintaining a mild, genial bottom
+heat.
+
+Vines.--The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept
+dry and well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention
+to keep a regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air.
+_Muscats_ very frequently require fires during the night and on wet,
+cold days.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in
+the middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the
+foliage; and never to be watered overhead.
+
+Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have
+finished their growth.
+
+Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very
+large heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the
+flowers are formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of
+one-half rich loam, one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and
+supplied with as much liquid manure and moist heat as possible.
+
+Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air
+and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages
+with clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and
+evening overhead.
+
+Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they
+will flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or
+rotten dung. They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be
+subjected to a moist heat of not less than 75°.
+
+Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When
+watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball
+is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is
+again completely dry.
+
+Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and
+liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly
+sticked, so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in
+presenting a large mass of flowers to the eye at once.
+
+Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as
+advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down.
+After the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the
+most forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out,
+and repot into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and
+placing them in a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again;
+after which freely expose them to the weather until heavy rains in
+autumn, or the approach of frost, renders it necessary to house them
+for the winter.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to
+remove filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in
+standing in corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange
+frequently, as it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the
+plants and a pleasing variety in the house.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is
+advisable to keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat.
+Strike cuttings of choice sorts for winter bearing.
+
+Melons.--The same as advised for _Cucumbers_, as they both delight
+in plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give
+them good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up
+early on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames,
+and the plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never
+allow any to fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears,
+apply lime to the parts affected. Old plants cut back should be
+stimulated to grow freely.
+
+Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those
+from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal
+waterings at the roots and by syringings.
+
+Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90° to 95° by day and from 70°
+to 75° by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing plants
+and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the
+pots.
+
+Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and
+day as soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully
+ripened, in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at
+a good heat. Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up
+the bunches, and maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty
+of air, but do not syringe the bunches.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought
+into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at
+every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house
+dry. The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers.
+Some judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants,
+that they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by
+drought in hot sunny days.
+
+The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them
+sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other
+considerations will permit.
+
+Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy
+compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather
+lumpy character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority.
+Particular attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially
+to the crock at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it
+matters but little how much depth of drainage material rests upon
+it, the soil will soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the
+final shift should be given in good time to those intended to flower
+in the autumn.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal
+parts of peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small
+portion of sand. Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at
+the bottom of the pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim
+with the compost, passed through a fine seive. After the pot has
+been gently struck on the potting-bench to settle the soil, the
+surface must then be made level with a flat piece of wood, or the
+bottom of a small garden pan or saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly
+over the surface, do not cover with soil, and water with a fine
+rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and be kept shaded from the
+sun.
+
+Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is
+generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from
+me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat
+containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times,
+and also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large
+pot and frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted
+out in the open ground.
+
+Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the
+adornment of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in
+fibrous peat, broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young
+plants to be frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the
+shoots while growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those
+again to be stopped until the plants have attained a size sufficient
+to warrant their blooming.
+
+Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in
+bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over,
+to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature
+their growth.
+
+Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the
+summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it
+has attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can
+be easily formed into a neat, compact specimen.
+
+Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes,
+Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent
+attention as to watering, shifting, &c.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove
+plants intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at
+all times; with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur,
+the humidity that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be
+dissipated by a free circulation of air when bright weather returns.
+Keep a free circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour
+to supply an abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter
+part of the day; and dispense with shading as much as possible by
+using it only during a few hours of the hottest part of the day.
+
+Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them
+neatly tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give
+them a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe
+them frequently overhead.
+
+Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month
+is the most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish
+to grow fine specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots,
+so that they may not require to be shifted for several years, as
+then the plants grow much finer and flower better than when annually
+shifted. Now, as soon as they have done flowering they commence
+growing, when they should have plenty of heat and moisture until
+they have completed their pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced
+to a comparative state of rest by gradually withholding water until
+they show flower; then to be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but
+should have no water at the root, or at least but a small portion,
+until they begin to grow. As all the plants belonging to this genus
+push their flowers downwards, it is advisable to have them elevated,
+or put in baskets, where the flowers can get through and show
+themselves to advantage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are
+swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the
+foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist.
+Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop
+ripens, curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before
+they reach maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be
+regularly supplied with water, and some liquid manure added about
+once a week to assist the second crop. Keep down red spider by the
+application of sulphur in the manner so frequently advised of late.
+Give the fruit that is ripening the benefit of the sun, by fastening
+on one side the leaves that shade it.
+
+Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a
+comparatively cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit
+daily, and gather before it is overripe and loses its flavour.
+
+Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of
+the advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of
+air and sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely
+to the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but
+a circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at
+the same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions
+to afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by
+frequent syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other
+available surface until the fruit begins to change colour, when the
+atmosphere and soil should be kept rather dry, to improve the
+fruit's flavour. See to the stools from which fruit have been cut.
+Earth them up, so as to cause suckers to strike root. Give them a
+brisk bottom heat, and proper supplies of water. You will thus gain
+time and assistance for the suckers from the declining strength of
+the parent plant as long as possible. It is now a good time to start
+a lot into fruit, as they will have two or three most favourable
+months for swelling, and will come in at a season when they are in
+very general request. Keep the bark-bed moderately moist, as in that
+state it will retain its heat much longer than if it is allowed to
+get dry.
+
+Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as
+it is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too
+far advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep
+longer than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do
+not allow plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp,
+which, despite every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the
+berries and spoil them. The outside borders of the late houses
+should be watered and mulched, if the weather continue dry.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs,
+Fuchsias, Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan
+Lilies. Strict attention must be paid to all plants in these
+structures that they do not suffer from the want of water. Continue
+to stop over-luxuriant growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens.
+On the evenings of hot, dry days, after the plants have been
+watered, give them a slight syringing, or sprinkling, over the
+leaves, and also the ground upon which they are standing.
+
+Aotus gracillimus.--When done blooming, to be cut down close to the
+pot.
+
+Aphelexis and Helichrysums.--When past their best state, cut the
+flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady
+place until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be
+repotted.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf
+stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out
+in rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago.
+
+Cinerarias.--Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow
+seed.
+
+Fuchsias.--Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings.
+
+Leschenaultias.--When they are going out of bloom, or past their
+best, remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool
+place to start again.
+
+Kalosanthes.--When done blooming, the flower-stems and all
+straggling growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens
+for another season.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as
+advised lately.
+
+Pimelea spectabilis.--When that and the other kinds have done
+blooming, to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place
+to break.
+
+Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the _Pimeleas_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as
+visible. The _Gishurst Compound_ is worthy of a trial. Follow former
+instructions as to moisture and air.
+
+Ixoras.--When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be
+started in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended
+on baskets, or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the
+roots, and frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little
+fire-heat applied in the afternoon will be of service to them.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing
+towards maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the
+atmosphere should be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely
+every fine day. Keep the foliage clean and healthy, and clear from
+insects, and do not allow the young shoots to get crowded.
+
+Melons.--Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep
+the plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root,
+with an abundance of air in fine weather.
+
+Pines.--Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting
+and succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the
+application of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by
+saturation. The walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept
+constantly moist, and frequent syringings to be given to the young
+stock. Continue all other routine operations according to former
+directions.
+
+Strawberries.--Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong,
+rich loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have
+made roots enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in
+small pots, to be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer
+to lay them in their fruiting-pots. The principal object should be,
+to attain plants of a moderate growth, well matured and rested
+before forcing time.
+
+Vines.--The early houses, when they have been cleared of their
+fruit, and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed
+and repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free
+exposure to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be
+encouraged to swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure
+water, and by being carefully thinned, more especially if they are
+wanted to keep late. A little fire-heat will be necessary in
+unfavourable weather, with an abundance of air day and night.
+
+
+
+
+AUGUST.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water.
+Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and
+exhausted stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the
+autumn is fast approaching, the sooner the new growths are
+encouraged the better, that they may have sufficient time to mature
+them. All greenhouse plants will now be benefited by exposure to the
+natural atmosphere: the dews are more refreshing and invigorating
+than artificial moisture or the application of the syringe.
+
+Finish _potting_ all specimen plants; for if left until later in the
+season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with
+roots, and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of
+water at the roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that
+of surrounding it with fresh soil for months when the roots should
+be in a comparatively dormant state.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Continue to head them down, and to propagate the
+cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the
+open ground.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during
+warm weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias,
+and other such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them
+betimes. The _Æschynanthus grandiflorus_, _Aphelandra cristata_,
+_Eranthemum pulchellum_, Justicias, and any others that are intended
+for the decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part
+of winter, should be carefully looked over, and shifted without
+delay if they want more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly,
+and to be exposed to as much sun as they will bear without
+scorching the foliage, to induce stocky growth. Nothing is more
+injurious to stove plants than to keep them growing late in the
+season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the wood, which will
+render them more liable to injuries in winter and more unproductive
+of flowers the following season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Melons.--The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept
+rather dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable
+weather. A steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops.
+
+Peaches.--If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced
+houses, it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible,
+that the air, rain, and dews may have free access to act both
+beneficially on the trees and to keep down red spider. In those
+houses which have been treated as advised in former Calendars, the
+principal object now should be to get the wood properly ripened. The
+late houses to be treated in a similar manner when the fruit is
+gathered. Where the trees in peach-houses have been recently
+planted, and are not yet in a bearing state, the shoots will require
+to be trained carefully, and insects to be kept down.
+
+Pines.--The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended
+to with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate
+the whole body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is
+moist while the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest
+successions for early forcing next season.
+
+Strawberries.--Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to
+force in pots until you have a sufficient number.
+
+Vines.--Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a
+little fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are
+better flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is
+delayed to a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray
+laterals that begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little
+at a time, as disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to
+fruit trees. The young Vines in pots to have every attention, to
+secure as much growth and healthy vigour as possible while the
+growing season lasts. Allow all young planted Vines to ramble freely
+without stopping them so closely, as is frequently practised. Before
+wasps and flies do much mischief to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass
+should be fixed over the top lights and front lights that are opened
+for the admission of air. Remove decayed berries as soon as
+observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit dry and free from
+dust.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Bulbs.--The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made
+as soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each
+season; to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be
+potted in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in
+a dry situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan
+or coal ashes.
+
+Camellias.--The large, old specimens that have set their
+flower-buds to be carefully supplied with water; for if they are
+allowed to get too dry at the roots they are apt to drop their buds.
+Young vigorous plants, on the contrary, will require to be watered
+rather sparingly, to prevent them making a second growth.
+
+Cinerarias.--Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to
+watering, &c., cause a check to their growth.
+
+Climbers.--To have a succession late in the season when flowers
+become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose,
+more especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises.
+
+New Holland Plants.--If any have been standing out of doors for
+some time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender
+varieties to the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the
+danger and risk of exposure to wet or windy weather.
+
+Soils.--Now is a favourable time to collect soils of different
+sorts for future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters
+will become evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould,
+decomposed sheep, deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old
+Cucumber, Melon, and other such soils, to be put in separate heaps
+in a shed, or any other dry place, protected from drenching rains.
+Each sort to be numbered, or named, that no mistake may occur when
+wanted.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied
+with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other
+stove plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the
+water to be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up
+early in the afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be
+made in the daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air
+may be given to the plants.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed
+early, for the benefit of the second crop of fruit.
+
+Melons.--Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden
+supply at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and
+become worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may
+receive the benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the
+sun's rays till it is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water
+to the late crops, and thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to
+paint the interior of the frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with
+slight syringings and shutting up early while the sun shines upon
+it, will keep down insects.
+
+Mushrooms.--Collect some very short stable-litter and
+horse-droppings, and turn them over frequently with the addition of
+a small portion of turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When
+moderately dry, to be packed on shelves or in boxes, and be
+well-beaten down in layers four or five inches thick, till the bed
+is the required thickness--from a foot to eighteen inches; for
+success will depend in a great measure upon the solidity of the bed.
+To be spawned when there is a brisk heat.
+
+Pines.--If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been
+added, the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any
+approach to a burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots,
+&c. Fruit recently started and swelling off to have every
+encouragement for the next two months. Shut up early, to secure a
+strong amount of solar heat. Keep all the growing stock warm and
+moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day.
+
+Vines.--The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe,
+would be benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights
+are required to remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all
+laterals kept down. When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and
+when the weather is wet or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied,
+will expel damps, and be in other respects very beneficial to them.
+Stop all useless growths in the late houses; do not remove the
+leaves to expose the fruit to the sun, unless they are very thick
+indeed, as they are the principal agents by which nutriment is
+carried to the berries.
+
+Vines in Pots.--When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the
+north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to
+keep the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will
+protect them from sudden changes.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or in
+pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms,
+preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and
+washing all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all
+crevices and corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting
+there. When by scrubbing, brushing, &c., you have brought everything
+to the ground, let no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish,
+&c., off the ground, and also out of the house. If painting and
+glazing are necessary, the sooner they are done the better, leaving
+the house entirely open for three weeks or a month, that the
+effluvium from white lead, which is prejudicial to plants, may pass
+off before the lights are put on again.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants
+that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as
+soon as they have filled their pots with roots.
+
+Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the
+bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there
+is a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will
+allow of the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot.
+
+Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be
+necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally--and
+especially that of all those whose period of excitement is continued
+over a certain portion of the autumn--so arranged and circumstanced
+as to secure its perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have
+it "well ripened." For that purpose it is necessary to avoid the
+application of moisture beyond what is necessary to prevent a
+decided check in the growth of the plants, to expose them to the
+influence of light, by not suffering them to crowd or overhang each
+other, and to prevent from what cause soever the too sudden
+declension of the average temperature to which they are exposed.
+
+The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have plenty of moisture
+and heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and
+then it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the
+supply of water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house.
+
+Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may be separated
+or potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in
+baskets. Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts,
+and peg them altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the
+summit place your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another
+plant, and with four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go
+where they please in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for
+sustenance upon the atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Peaches.--It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off
+the early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing
+towards a state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely
+indispensable, but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the
+lights are off or on, attention may now be given to the repairs of
+glass or woodwork where necessary, and to finish with a coat of
+paint and whitewashing, if possible.
+
+Pines.--The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over
+in hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water.
+Continue to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the
+parent plants, as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if
+left out of the ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung
+pits, as all Pine plants, in whatever situation, will require a
+lively bottom heat of 90°.
+
+Vines.--The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and
+rather early (about four o'clock), in order to dispense, if
+possible, with fires, giving air by seven o'clock in the morning,
+and increasing it abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished
+at intervals, in accordance with the state of the weather.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that
+they do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to
+be given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may
+be dry towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.
+
+Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a
+cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that
+have been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or
+frame, where they can be protected from heavy rains.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut
+down are about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the
+roots slightly trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as
+advised early in July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for
+potting off; when potted, to be placed in a pit or frame, kept
+close, and shaded until they have made fresh roots, when they should
+be placed out in an open situation to grow firm and stocky, pinching
+out the leading shoots; and to be placed on coal ashes, slates, or
+boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow the seed immediately
+it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of any other perennial
+plant, if ripe before the middle of September.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual
+increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is
+still essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed
+with, except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given
+to the Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises,
+Dipladenias, and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil
+of large specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in
+a mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and
+leaf mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a
+gentle bottom heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during
+bright sunshine.
+
+Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their
+growth. Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing
+freely in pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear,
+tepid, soft water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up
+early.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or
+other such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good
+soaking of water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry
+atmosphere is necessary to ripen the fruit.
+
+Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are
+growing in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or
+renewed, to produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker
+is apt to set in and destroy the plants.
+
+Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as
+recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be
+made very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is
+advisable when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong,
+fresh loam at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it
+as firm as possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much
+better quality than if partly-exhausted soil is used.
+
+Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them
+occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The
+growth of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills,
+&c., to be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines
+alone, an abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance
+of air to the young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of
+the atmosphere, to induce maturity of growth and a hardy
+constitution against winter. Shift, if not already done, succession
+plants into larger pots. Any plants recently potted to be shaded
+during bright sunshine, sprinkled overhead every afternoon, and the
+house closed early. The sprinkling will be sufficient without
+watering at the root until the plants begin to grow.
+
+Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when
+the ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a
+little fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit
+in late vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but
+more especially when the external temperature ranges below 50°.
+
+
+
+
+SEPTEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Balsams.--Give them a good watering when they show indications of
+drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation
+appears, as saturation will be death to them.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When
+potted, to be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the
+early part of the month, and covered with some porous material--such
+as coal ashes, old spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other
+material that will serve to keep the roots not only cool and
+un-acted on by atmospheric changes, but which, from being moderately
+damp, will not abstract moisture from the roots, but keep them
+uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs, if obtained now, may
+be had in flower at various periods throughout the winter and early
+spring. _Amaryllis Johnsoni_, _vittata_, and many other varieties,
+are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and orange-flowered
+species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the varieties of
+_Sparaxis tricolor_, are desirable plants that may be easily bloomed
+by gentle forcing.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Pot off seedlings into small pots, and
+keep them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the
+best kinds; they will strike readily in a common frame.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--They should now be stopped for the last time, to
+produce a late succession of bloom.
+
+Climbers.--Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or
+stakes may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from
+the rim of the pot upwards.
+
+Fuchsias.--To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young
+wood, trimming the plants to handsome shapes. If placed or plunged
+in a little bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming
+till Christmas.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--Supply them cautiously with water, as advised
+for Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong
+their beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the
+foot of a south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be
+given sparingly until their tops show signs of decay, when they may
+be laid on their sides till potting time. The same treatment is
+recommended for _Gladioli_ and plants of like habit.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are
+finishing or have completed their season's growth in the coolest
+part of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air,
+and rather cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free
+growth should be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but
+very little air and a liberal supply of water during very fine
+sunshiny weather.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object
+should be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is
+necessary to be given by exposing them to light and air, and
+preserving the leaves from injury, as it is upon their healthy
+action that the future crop depends.
+
+Cherries.--Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early
+forcing, to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy,
+situation, to continue the regular root action, upon which much of
+their future success will depend.
+
+Figs.--Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of
+fruit is ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early
+forcing, to be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+Peaches.--If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have
+performed their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with
+sulphur. Trees in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries.
+
+Pines.--Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth
+where it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied
+occasionally with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be
+supplied with water at the roots, as inattention to that particular
+during hot weather is very likely to cause some of the plants to
+fruit prematurely.
+
+Strawberries.--The stock intended for forcing to be carefully
+attended to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when
+necessary, to be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air,
+and a little weak liquid manure, will assist to produce stout
+healthy plants for forcing.
+
+Vines.--When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house
+as cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and
+expose the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as
+possible. Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes
+occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest
+out-door greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to
+be carefully examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the
+soil or drainage of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other
+indications of the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the
+soil, by carefully turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can
+generally be picked out. If they are not visible on the outside of
+the ball, a small peg stuck in will direct particular attention to
+it until the intruder is removed. When staging the plants, a
+pleasing variety may be introduced by placing a few on inverted
+pots. Sufficient space to be given to each plant to allow the air to
+circulate freely around. If there is not sufficient room for all,
+the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be rejected, or wintered in a
+pit or vinery. When housed, all the air possible should be given in
+fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the lights, and only
+reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in the weather
+take place.
+
+Heliotropes.--Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy
+state for winter flowering.
+
+Mignonette.--Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring
+blooming.
+
+Pinks.--Pot _Anne Boleyne_ and other sorts, to be well established
+before they are wanted for forcing.
+
+Roses.--Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under
+glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate
+growth and early blooming.
+
+Violets.--Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or
+leaf mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a
+pit or frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early
+spring.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is
+advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy
+shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70° to 80°,
+with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas, _Epidendrum
+Skinneri_, Lælias, _Lycaste Skinneri_, and _Odontoglossum grande_,
+to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed occasionally.
+Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except such as
+are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as
+possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening
+influence of the sun.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the
+atmosphere. Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight
+fires will be useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening
+the fruit; and but little syringing and watering will be required
+from this time forward.
+
+Melons.--Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air,
+shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In
+whatever structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up
+the bottom heat by a gentle fire, or by linings.
+
+Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the
+air night and day, and will, therefore, require but little
+attention, except an occasional washing with the engine, to remove
+insects and to allow the foliage to perform its functions to a
+natural decay. If a blank in the house is to be filled up, it may be
+done as soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall; and the
+crop to be expected from the same tree next season will depend upon
+the care with which it is removed, as there will be sufficient time
+for the wood to be ripened and the tree to make fresh roots, and to
+get sufficiently established before winter.
+
+Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken
+by giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the
+plants weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient
+command of heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given
+at night and on cloudy days.
+
+Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as
+it is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made
+after this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is
+useful to keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The
+bunches to be frequently and carefully looked over and all tainted
+berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat
+is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the
+fruit is cut it is sometimes necessary to keep the atmosphere dry
+and rather warm, to ripen the wood.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as
+possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when
+many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause
+them to produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to
+damp off at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the
+external air will cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally
+supplied when they are first taken into the house, as the dry boards
+on which they may stand, or the elevated situation and free
+circulation of air will occasion a more frequent want of that
+element than when they stood on the moist earth. However, by no
+means go to the extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary.
+
+Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the
+greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth
+is matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at
+Christmas, or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the
+bloom-buds have swelled to a good size, when they will require but
+very little forcing to start them into bloom.
+
+Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the
+success of early forcing depends upon early potting.
+
+Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas.
+
+Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been
+growing freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a
+rather succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked
+by this pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an
+application of sulphur.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence
+with the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be
+better prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the
+winter season.
+
+Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
+shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in
+a compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in
+a soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that
+they are liable to rot off at the base of the stem.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a
+little liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the
+borders, to induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of
+the wood and an early rest.
+
+Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if
+not yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary.
+
+Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still
+remaining in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one
+end of the pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house
+should then be prepared for the best of the succession plants for
+the second crop next summer. Plants showing fruit after this time,
+although they cannot be expected to produce as fine fruit as if
+earlier in the season, will, nevertheless, be found very useful, and
+should have every attention given to them while the season continues
+favourable. To be placed in the warmest corner of the house, and to
+be supplied when dry with a little liquid manure. Continue to grow
+on the young stock while the weather continues favourable; for fine
+sunny days and moist growing nights are all that we can desire. A
+good portion of solar heat to be secured by shutting up early. On
+cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep up the
+temperature to 70° towards morning.
+
+Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well
+ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much
+fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if,
+from appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at
+rest, the pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the
+Grapes not yet ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air
+to be given to the house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the
+vapour that ascends, if not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will
+cause the Grapes to become mouldy and worthless.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to
+be taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be
+placed in a gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they
+have made fresh roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the
+dull, dreary months of the approaching winter.
+
+American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early
+spring, the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be
+plunged in the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the
+forcing-house from November until February, as they may be required.
+The most suitable for such a purpose are the Azaleas of the
+_nudiflora_ class with various hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_,
+_Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L.
+thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_, Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora
+Canadense_.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the
+glass as possible, with plenty of air at all favourable
+opportunities. To be duly supplied with water.
+
+Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of
+the buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds,
+leaving not more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the
+largest and smallest to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves,
+if necessary, to be washed clean.
+
+Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias.
+
+Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the
+application of the Gishurst infallible compound.
+
+Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds
+may be sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of
+sheltering them from frost and damp; but if you have no such
+convenience, it is advisable to postpone the sowing until spring.
+The seed is separated most easily from the pulp by bruising the
+berries amongst dry sand, and allowing it to stand in the sun, or in
+a warm place, until the moisture has evaporated, when the seed and
+sand will be intermixed, and in a fit state to be sown.
+
+Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas,
+and give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the
+weather continues favourable.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a
+considerable share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be
+stopped, to maintain symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant
+eye should be kept upon them almost daily, to see that neither
+mildew, green fly, nor other such enemies be allowed to injure them.
+
+Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer,
+the sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better.
+Clean the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which
+they are growing.
+
+Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiæ, and other such plants to be
+gradually curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the
+winter and their season of rest.
+
+Tropæolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T.
+tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the
+season, begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to
+grow slowly through the winter; but if there is no appearance of
+growth--which is best for their future success--the roots should be
+kept dormant, in a cool place, with the soil about them quite dry,
+and protected from mice.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn.
+Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry.
+Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not
+so much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the
+house. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain
+a healthy atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aërides,
+Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the
+application of a high temperature, with much moisture and less
+shading, to make further and sometimes considerable growth.
+
+Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some
+time longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a
+comparatively dormant state by a gradual diminution in the supply of
+water, and a decrease in temperature, with less shading.
+
+Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh
+material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable
+never to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to
+get too far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong
+fermentation has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain
+in it for some time. The temperature to be kept from 60° to 65°,
+with the admission of air for several hours daily.
+
+Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived
+at, or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but
+little attention will be necessary, still that little will be
+required to keep them clear of insects and of the leaves as they
+become sufficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch.
+The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be removed,
+and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, put in its place.
+Remove them without further delay, if not already done, as advised
+in the early part of the month, to the north side of a wall or hedge
+until wanted; or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they
+should be protected from its icy grasp.
+
+Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening
+the late fruit, they will in some places still require the
+assistance of a good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air
+in the middle of the day.
+
+Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended
+for Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be
+planted in the place of any that may be worn out. The choice should
+be made of young trees that are in a bearing state, and all the
+better if they had been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees,
+after the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too
+crowded; but if the summer pruning, as frequently advised, have been
+properly done, but very little, if any, will be required now. To
+remove the leaves from the trees in the early houses it is advisable
+to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them gently with a few
+pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be
+removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from insects.
+
+Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine
+management. Whilst fine weather continues air may be given
+liberally; and shut up earlier in the afternoon to secure as much
+sun heat as possible. Plants swelling their fruit to be assisted
+with a brisk temperature, both at top and bottom, from 65° to 70° at
+night, allowing it to rise to 80° on sunny days with a steady bottom
+heat of about 80°. When watering is necessary let it be given in
+sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil. The suckers
+and crowns that were potted in the summer months should now be
+shifted, if they have grown freely; they should then be plunged in a
+brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from which the
+plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any remaining
+suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged in a
+brisk heat in the nursing pit.
+
+Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it
+is intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned,
+that sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the
+buds to become more plump and prominent. The border of the early
+house to be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such
+material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in
+some situations to cover the borders of the houses in which it is
+intended to keep Grapes late, to prevent the soil getting saturated
+about the roots. Continue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the
+mouldy or tainted berries; applying gentle fires only when necessary
+to expel damps, with a free circulation of air--as a warm, close
+atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the long-rod system is
+adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as the fruit is
+gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any shoots
+to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared;
+the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue
+to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and
+cut out every decayed berry.
+
+
+
+
+OCTOBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a
+portion of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants
+kept supplied with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately
+moist throughout. Air to be given every day, and also a portion at
+night, if the weather continue mild.
+
+Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in a
+convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the
+forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time
+ago, a few of them may now be excited into growth.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a
+showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and
+shaded for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the
+greenhouse, and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a
+fine display.
+
+Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered
+sparingly until they begin to grow.
+
+Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs,
+that a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during
+winter.
+
+Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants
+to be potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan
+until wanted for forcing.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature
+to decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aërides,
+Dendrobiums, &c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80° by day
+and 70° by night, the Cattleyas will require 10° or 15° less to
+bring them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant
+excitement they will continue to sprout buds from their
+pseudo-bulbs, which generally adds to the size of the plant at the
+expense of the blooms.
+
+Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also
+_Gesnera zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during
+winter.
+
+Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
+giving them larger pots if required.
+
+Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial
+attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest
+season of the year when flowers are scarce.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is
+necessary to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty
+of top and bottom heat.
+
+Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and
+whose leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early
+rest. A seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to
+trees in pots, that they may be in a fit state for forcing early.
+
+Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give
+flavour to the fruit. They will require little or no water after
+this.
+
+Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the
+open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from
+the nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space
+allotted to them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after
+being repaired and painted, they should be put upon the houses to
+protect the trees and borders from unfavourable weather.
+
+Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to
+give it flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist
+atmosphere. Water to be given to the plants cautiously; every one to
+be examined before it receives any, and manure water to be dispensed
+with altogether. The heat of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing
+the linings. The crowns and suckers that are planted in the tan to
+have no water; all they require is attention in giving air and
+keeping up the heat.
+
+Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are
+intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would
+injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such
+material had been used over the lights that open in houses
+containing fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken
+down as little mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks.
+Mice are sometimes very troublesome in vineries at this season, and
+will spoil a whole house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented.
+Traps should, therefore, be kept set, and every means used to
+prevent their ingress from the garden. Cover the border when the
+trees are planted outside, with a good coat of fern or any other
+such material before they become saturated and chilled by the
+autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in layers, beginning at the
+front of the border, the whole to be covered with a thin layer of
+good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does the straw on stacks.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will
+require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and
+regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced,
+sometimes droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises
+from the roots being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the
+moisture, and the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth.
+This is usually brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as
+soon, therefore, as the consequences are observed, the plants should
+be examined, and sufficient water given to wet the ball of earth
+thoroughly.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a
+late Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid
+manure will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection.
+If any indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of
+sulphur, when the foliage is damp, will banish it.
+
+Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by
+the application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering
+is over, and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be
+set aside in any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept
+moderately dry.
+
+Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring
+protection to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other
+structure, as near the glass as possible. To be watered regularly;
+but, like all other plants, care must be taken that they do not get
+too much at any time during the winter.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and
+repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in
+a gentle bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the
+Cypripediums, _Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to
+be supplied with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other
+sorts--such as the Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c.,
+that are approaching their dormant state--to be accommodated, if
+possible, with a drier and cooler atmosphere. All fast-growing
+plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas, &c.--that require large pots
+in summer, to be now turned out of their pots, the soil to be shaken
+from them, and repotted into the smallest sized pots that will
+contain them, without pruning the roots much at this time.
+
+Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning,
+more especially where they obstruct the light in any material
+degree. The Combretums, Echites, Ipomsæas, Mandevillas,
+late-blooming Passifloras, Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias,
+&c., which are still growing, to be regulated with a more gentle
+hand, cutting out but little more than barren shoots, and drawing
+the remainder into somewhat closer festoons, to allow the more free
+admission of sunlight into the interior of the house.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be
+making progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up
+a good heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable
+opportunities, to get them strong and vigorous against the winter
+months. Stop mildew by dusting the leaves with sulphur.
+
+Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous
+directions. Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a
+genial humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to
+keep them sweet and free from mouldiness.
+
+Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is
+advisable to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent
+the admission of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis,
+whitewash the flues and walls, and make every part of the house
+clean. Dress the trees with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur in
+hot water; to be well rubbed in with a brush or sponge.
+
+Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any
+decaying berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time,
+and if any plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept
+under the Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a
+little fire heat in the day, with air, to expel damp before night.
+Whatever system of pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur,
+it is advisable, when the brown scale is visible, to take off the
+loose bark, to wash them, and the wires and rafters, with soft soap
+dissolved in hot water, using a hard brush, being careful not to
+injure the buds; afterwards to apply hot lime, made to the
+consistency of thick paint.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The decline of temperature and less watering must go on
+progressively, more especially in dull weather, with free
+ventilation at all favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold,
+use a little fire-heat occasionally during the day, especially where
+there are many plants in bloom, that ventilation may be given to
+expel damp and stagnant air.
+
+Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to
+be shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots.
+The compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould,
+and one part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and
+will thrive tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost
+during the winter. They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal
+ashes, and kept as near to the glass as possible.
+
+Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse,
+be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be
+given carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded
+by mats, or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy
+by free exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if
+they are shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed.
+
+Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The
+soil to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks
+at the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant
+through the winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage
+and keeping the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a
+hotbed frame will find it useful to start the seeds by moderate
+heat. Others who have no such convenience may place their pots in a
+cold frame in a sheltered situation, and upon a floor of rough
+stones overlaid with ashes.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter
+the better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should
+be given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at
+all favourable opportunities.
+
+Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the
+glass as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of
+green fly, and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a
+healthy condition.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot
+to be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy
+pieces to form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the
+tops and sides of these pieces of soil, by which there is more
+probability of some of them vegetating than if they had been sown on
+a level surface where the whole of the seed would be subjected to
+the same kind of treatment, which might with ordinary care be either
+too wet or too dry. The pot to be set in a saucer that contains a
+little water, which will feed the whole mass with sufficient
+moisture without a drop being required on the surface of the pot.
+The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the stove where
+evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do not like
+to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould,
+supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of
+atmospheric moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every
+second joint, and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.
+
+Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is
+large, to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or
+fence, packed in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any
+other such covering, to protect them from heavy falls of rain until
+they are wanted for forcing.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs
+occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat
+during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in
+the circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead
+leaves, and the destruction of insects.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the
+spring; also the Ixiæ and Gladioli, and various other Irideæ; and
+also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil
+composed of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an
+addition to, or substitute for, the peat.
+
+Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower
+as specimens in early spring.
+
+Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All
+suckers and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be
+thinned.
+
+Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will
+be of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused
+by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning;
+the principal shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly
+and useless ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage
+a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound,
+dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the
+green fly.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at
+the second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length
+before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they
+are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop.
+
+Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their
+leaves. If the lights are still off any of the early houses the
+sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.
+
+Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from
+60° to 65° at night, with an increase during the day in accordance
+with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy,
+foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less.
+Humidity to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to
+produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession
+plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by
+having a small quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated
+by dung will require covering with mats at night: when covered let
+every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass
+off. When the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the
+glass. Take advantage of all opportunities for giving a little air.
+If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of
+the plants.
+
+Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned
+for some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature
+wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If
+the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed
+amongst decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a
+good condition for holding on for a long time.
+
+
+
+
+NOVEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived,
+it is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth
+free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire
+to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a
+free circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the
+afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments
+of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in
+severely, night coverings, if possible, should be applied in
+preference to fire-heat.
+
+American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias,
+hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required
+for winter forcing.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent
+the flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water,
+and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their
+beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost
+entirely denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably
+detracts from what should be their ornamental appearance in the
+greenhouse or conservatory.
+
+Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward
+a shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for
+cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the
+flowers like the single varieties.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Great caution will now be necessary in the application of
+atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a
+premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could
+thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove
+plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60°, with a fall of 8°
+or 10° during the night.
+
+Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants
+of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce;
+they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when
+in bloom.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to
+the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam
+in the frames.
+
+Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now
+be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be
+taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should
+be taken to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and
+_Violette Hâtive_ Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse
+Mignonne_, and _Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for
+forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although
+they may bear abundantly.
+
+Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible,
+to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the
+spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so
+that it may range from 60° to 65°. The winter-fruiting plants to
+range 10° higher.
+
+Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the
+house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose,
+be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet
+weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which
+may be a useful hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in
+other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the
+Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones.
+When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected
+from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly
+injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents;
+shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little
+or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.
+
+Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared
+for forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light
+is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be
+mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early
+action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in
+which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be
+introduced immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs,
+Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars,
+Honeysuckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs
+that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be
+introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an
+inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the
+pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the
+atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give
+air freely.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the
+most forward may be accelerated by a little heat.
+
+Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs
+to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant
+erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down
+gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by
+diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more
+liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen
+kinds--such as some of the Aërides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums,
+Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be
+made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still
+retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be
+placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches
+of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any
+deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the
+heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.
+
+Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require
+shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be
+plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the
+roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.
+
+Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them,
+as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be
+required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the
+leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with
+soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one
+ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water.
+Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary.
+Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the
+size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots
+plunged in leaves.
+
+Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be
+encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are
+likely to "show" for the next two months to be supplied with a
+temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just
+beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening
+and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently
+renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become
+suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be
+collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for
+lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves
+contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water
+to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants
+as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in
+consequence.
+
+Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small
+hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be
+taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and
+protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and
+suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather.
+
+Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house
+is at work is the best place for both.
+
+Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which
+fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and
+free from anything likely to create mould or damp.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and
+dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion
+wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity
+to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free
+admission of air.
+
+Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The
+_A. Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be
+succeeded by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other
+varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they
+are invaluable where they continue for six weeks or two months in
+perfect beauty.
+
+Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid
+state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full
+and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required
+early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where
+heat is applied.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and
+such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or
+importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light
+situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality
+sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely
+through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and
+see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid,
+even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require
+attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable
+day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of
+that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept
+neat, and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or
+suspended from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the
+most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough
+cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of
+Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed.
+
+Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be
+filled within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of
+old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about
+equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the
+forcing-house for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are
+then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the finger
+about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then
+thinned out, according to the strength of the plants, to six or
+eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering. When the two first
+leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as
+the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots,
+taking especial care that they do not become too wet, or they will
+damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to cause
+them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be
+placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese Dwarf_ and
+_Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing.
+
+Figs.--A temperature of about 40° will suit them at present; if
+allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to
+be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.
+
+Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an
+application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of
+summer heat (76°), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose
+services are required before much excitement takes place at top.
+
+Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to
+be very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures,
+more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of
+about 70°, with a steady top temperature of about 60° during the
+day, and about 55° during the night, will keep the plants in a
+comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the
+temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a
+degree as to endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season,
+nor to rise so high as to excite them into a growth that would be
+immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of
+water will also be necessary.
+
+Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss
+of time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly
+healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early
+spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for
+forcing should either be placed within the protection of the house
+appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water,
+when necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be
+applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the
+vapour to pass off. All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be
+carefully picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or
+anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or
+decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the
+half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.
+
+Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as
+possible with the admission of light.
+
+Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and
+recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room,
+conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful
+attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on
+suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the
+daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be
+shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in
+preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or
+frequent and moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to
+destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when applied to the
+roots or branches when they require it.
+
+New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to
+cold draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same
+house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should
+occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when
+necessary, from the top lights only.
+
+Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for
+out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias.
+It is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be
+kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions,
+as that their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be
+procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle
+heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at
+once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits,
+or frames, may be made available for the purpose of forcing
+Asparagus.
+
+Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches.
+
+Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command
+of bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little
+attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe
+to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is
+indispensable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for
+that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants should
+be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in
+good repair.
+
+Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly
+directed. The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the
+surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few
+degrees warmer than the temperature of the house.
+
+Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being
+thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and
+tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at
+night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the
+commencement of forcing.
+
+Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season
+should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a
+moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with
+safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings
+will require some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or
+shutters--to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a
+gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their
+season of rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly
+all they will require. If the young plants are growing in pits
+heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from
+the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants.
+
+Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the
+old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house,
+to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the
+wood, and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be
+covered with a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat
+by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All
+Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately.
+
+
+
+
+DECEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as
+possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or
+rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too
+high--say greenhouse from 50° to 55° by day and from 40° to 45° by
+night; conservatory 60° by day and 50° by night. Chrysanthemums to
+be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early
+Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention
+now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this
+season, as the least saturation or interference with the root action
+will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower.
+_Poinsettia pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a
+noble ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_
+and _rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at
+this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give,
+with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole.
+_Gesnera zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of
+the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter
+flower.
+
+Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of
+plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They
+can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without
+sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying
+influence of fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and
+which is very frequently death to the plants. They will require but
+very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be
+very particularly examined as to their state of dryness or
+otherwise, as a guide to the application or withholding of water.
+An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants
+from growing.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The
+temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of
+exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on
+fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface
+of the soil in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and
+lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure the
+roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and
+all climbing plants neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons,
+Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will now be approaching
+a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no
+water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place
+them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by themselves.
+Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to
+keep them safe and sound.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted.
+
+Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the
+temperature steadily at or near 60°. A fresh bed to be made and
+spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.
+
+Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and
+moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the
+main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every
+favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70° to 75° and
+from 55° to 60° at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful
+attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature,
+admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent
+them from being injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung
+linings, constant watching will be necessary to prevent any
+fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in
+case of frost.
+
+Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the
+Vines by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as
+advised last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the
+atmosphere regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood
+should be syringed frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs,
+kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be protected, and
+afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the buds are fairly swelled.
+As it is advisable to proceed very slowly with early Vines, the
+temperature to range from 55° to 60° by day and from 45° to 50° by
+night, and even rather under than over the above scale. Late Grapes
+will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look over them
+frequently, and dry the house by fire during the day.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be
+removed as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an
+application of flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented
+from making its appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild
+mornings, using a little fire heat at the same time. Great caution
+is now necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially to
+such as have not well matured their growth, and are in a rather soft
+state. It is also advisable to look over them every morning, that
+the flagging of a leaf may be noticed, and the necessary supply of
+water be given. All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep
+the plants uniform.
+
+Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no
+more water than is really required. Keep down green fly.
+
+Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to
+keep out frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive
+their final shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable
+weather. Every one that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green
+fly to be kept down by fumigating. The most forward to have the
+lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with sufficient
+space for the air to circulate freely around the foliage of each.
+
+Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be
+avoided, except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling
+below 40°, or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom
+to be arranged in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of
+twisted bass under the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened
+to secure the shoots and the better formation of the plant, obviates
+the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of which is at all
+times objectionable.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the
+application of water are more especially required, as there is not a
+single feature in the cultivation of plants during the winter in
+which the amateur is more likely to err, and by reason of which a
+greater amount of injury is sustained, than in the application of
+water either in its fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the soil
+in superabundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain
+some degree of injury; and if it is applied in excess to the
+atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the leaves of
+the plants will be checked in consequence of the density of the
+medium that surrounds them when they will be sure to suffer.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A
+one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most
+suitable for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and
+congenial for their healthy vegetation and growth.
+
+Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the
+buds, and keep every plant clean and neat.
+
+Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during
+severe weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those
+that have done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that
+they may not receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.
+
+Vines.--Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to
+produce fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere to "break"
+the early Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week.
+Keep the wood generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution
+as before advised. As the most essential point in early forcing is
+to secure a healthy and vigorous root action, it is advisable, if
+the Vines are planted inside, to excite the roots by an occasional
+application of water at a temperature from 85° to 90°. It the Vines
+are planted outside, a steady heat of about 60° should be maintained
+by the fermenting matter placed on the border to be frequently
+turned over, and protected with dry litter from the frost or other
+unfavourable weather. Houses intended to commence forcing the early
+part of next month, to have some fermenting materials placed on the
+borders to excite the roots a little before the Vines are started,
+which will be of some assistance to make the buds push strongly and
+without much loss of time. To induce the buds to break regularly
+throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is frequently necessary
+to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward buds to the lowest
+level, and to elevate the most backward.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a
+confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat
+than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must
+be counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes
+condensed on the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the
+beauty of the flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The
+best corrective for such unfavourable results is to be found in
+keeping the temperature as low as may be consistent with the safety
+of the plants, and in withholding moisture as much as possible
+whenever the glass is affected by frost. See that the young stock of
+Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Persian Cyclamens, and other such
+flowers, that are grown especially for winter, are accommodated
+with a light, airy situation, and receive regular attention as
+regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums until they are
+thoroughly dry, and keep down insects.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and
+only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be
+accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60° by day, and
+50° by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before
+the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do
+not expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our
+collections of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of
+growth, and various kinds of temperature and climate, it is
+difficult to cultivate in one house a miscellaneous collection of
+them so satisfactorily as where there are two divisions, the one
+commanding a higher temperature, with more moisture, than the other.
+Where there is no such division, advantage may be taken of a
+forcing-pit, or other such house, to which any of them now in a
+growing state may be removed, and thus their growth may be promoted
+without injury to the general collection. For the general collection
+a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are now desirable, as no
+plants are more benefited by a season of rest than Orchids.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+All Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be secured
+from frost and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an
+excellent plunging medium for such of these as are wanted very
+early. Keep up a succession of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb,
+Sea-kale, &c., according to the demand.
+
+Cucumbers.--Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too
+many appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time,
+and now appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour
+again by a judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of
+a top dressing of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of
+liquid manure occasionally.
+
+Peaches.--A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as
+beneficial to Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it
+can but rarely be made use of, in consequence of the difference in
+the structure of the interior, moisture must be supplied by other
+means, such as syringing and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when
+warm. A few trees, in pots, are useful for early forcing, as they
+can be easily plunged in a pit or any other convenient place where a
+mild regular bottom heat can be supplied. The trees for this purpose
+must have been grown and established for some time in pots.
+
+Pines.--A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up
+to carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the
+winter. A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management
+of the succession plants.
+
+Strawberries.--If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the
+strongest plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and
+placed in a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the
+back or front shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for
+forcing, to be placed near the glass with a free admission of air on
+fine days.
+
+Vines.--It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with
+a low temperature--say, 55° by day and 50° by night, to be increased
+5° more until they break, when it may be raised to 60° at night, and
+65° in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees by
+sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they
+break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines
+are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it
+constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the
+loose bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished
+by an application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient
+composition of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the
+fruit is ripe, a little fire heat will be necessary in frosty
+weather to prevent the vapour that adheres to the glass on the
+inside being frozen, for the moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon
+the bunches causing injury to the bloom, and decay to the berries.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest
+degree compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In
+damp, foggy weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during
+the day to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather
+it is advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more
+especially at night. From 45° by night to 50° by day will be
+sufficient for the conservatory, and 40° for the mixed greenhouse.
+To give a pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is
+advisable to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of
+flower to be removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the
+forcing-pit. All plants in these and other departments to be
+regularly looked over, removing the dead leaves and tying in
+straggling branches. The surface soil to be stirred a little, and
+some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are benefited by exposure to
+frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked or frozen surface
+every morning, until the whole is turned over and penetrated by the
+frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are destroyed,
+and the soil considerably ameliorated.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots if they
+require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately
+through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get
+thoroughly dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to
+pull or to cut them off too close to the stem, by which the
+flower-shoots would be very likely to get injured.
+
+Camellias.--Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to
+great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to
+drop their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often
+fall off without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden
+changes in the temperature to which they are exposed. For instance:
+when the buds are nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them
+to push too rapidly; and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at
+the time checks their growth, and in other cases causes them to
+fall. The heat required to expand the blossom-buds is about 60° by
+day, and 50° by night. If this be attended to, the plants will
+continue in flower for a great length of time, as the plants in that
+heat are not excited to grow. A little weak manure water to be given
+occasionally to the blooming plants.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--When they begin to fade, to be removed to the
+north side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan,
+leaves, or sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter.
+
+Cytisuses.--Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the
+coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at
+all favourable opportunities.
+
+Orange Trees.--These, or other such plants that have not been
+recently potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil
+and supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping
+the leaves clean and healthy.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of
+heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the
+freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10° or 15° above
+freezing, we would advise from 50° by night to 60° by day, for the
+stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer
+from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and
+either the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of
+the hothouse would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias,
+Euphorbias, Luculias, &c. Such plants should be carefully tied up
+and placed in the most conspicuous situations, or some of them may
+be removed to the conservatory so as to prolong their season of
+blooming.
+
+Allamandas.--Continue the temperature and treatment as lately
+advised. To be potted, as also _Stephanotis_, &c., and trained
+preparatory to starting them into growth, about the beginning of the
+new year.
+
+Forcing-pit.--Introduce such plants as are generally used for
+forcing, especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley,
+Sweet Briar, Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual
+Roses, and bulbous plants.
+
+Ixoras.--To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to
+have plenty of air at favourable opportunities.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants
+are ridged out and in action.
+
+Peaches.--It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and
+some other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing
+in pots, and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage
+of being able to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which
+is of the greatest importance in early forcing. Those who have good
+established trees, in pots, may now start them in a moderate heat.
+Air to be given liberally in favourable weather, and the syringe to
+be used freely over them morning and evening. The surface soil to be
+stirred up and kept open, and a supply of manure water to be given
+previous to starting them. The trees in the late houses to receive
+whatever pruning is necessary, and to be cleansed of every particle
+of scale, and afterwards washed with a composition of soft soap and
+sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to be carefully removed.
+
+Pines.--During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw,
+&c., will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be
+of more service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the
+temperature. When a supply of fruit is required throughout the year,
+it is sometimes necessary, at this season, to subject some of the
+plants to a high temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such
+as are most likely to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by
+themselves, where a temperature of from 60° to 65° by night, and
+from 70° to 75° by day, with about 80° of bottom heat, will be the
+most certain treatment for starting them into fruit. The other
+plants can then be supplied with a moderate temperature until the
+beginning of February; by such treatment a succession of fruit will
+be prolonged. Do not suffer the linings of dung-beds to decline,
+keep up, if possible, a temperature of 50° at night, and 60° by day,
+with a little air at every favourable opportunity.
+
+Potatoes.--Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in
+three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit,
+or in any other place where there is some heat, they will, in due
+time, be useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames
+or pits.
+
+Raspberries.--When a few early dishes would be considered a treat,
+if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the
+Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common
+care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting
+them.
+
+Vines.--When started and until the buds are fairly broken,
+endeavour to keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with
+the lowest part of the Vine, and if that should not be found
+sufficient to induce the buds to start regularly throughout the
+whole length of the Vine, the rod should be bent so as to bring the
+most forward buds to the lowest level, and elevating those that are
+backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up by sprinkling the floor
+and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly every morning and
+evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the supply of
+moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots to
+some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not
+done as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful
+for early work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines
+in houses, from the hazardous operation of early excitement.
+Increase the temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to
+swell, or are starting a little. The fermenting material in the
+house to be stirred up occasionally. This fermenting material
+should, if possible, consist of a large proportion of leaves mixed
+with the dung, to prevent the steam from the latter discolouring the
+rafters and sashes; and if the vapour is likely to be too strong, a
+thin covering of sawdust or old tan will prevent any injurious
+effects. If the roots are outside the house, and had been covered
+before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more dung and
+leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border, the
+good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the
+Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the
+Vines to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with
+white lead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in
+the Year, by William Keane
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+<title>In-door Gardening for every Week in the Year</title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year, by 
+William Keane
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year
+       Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants
+              Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit,
+              Orchid, and Forcing-house
+
+Author: William Keane
+
+Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<div id="titlepage">
+<h1>IN-DOOR GARDENING</h1>
+
+<p>FOR</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:150%;font-weight:bold;">EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR:</p>
+
+<p>SHOWING</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:110%;">THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS</p>
+
+<p>CULTIVATED IN THE</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:110%;">GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT,<br />
+ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE.</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:180%;word-spacing:0.5em;">BY WILLIAM KEANE.</p>
+
+<p>THIRD
+<img src="images/logo.png" style="vertical-align: middle;" alt="" width="129" height="128" />
+EDITION.</p>
+
+<p style="clear:left;">LONDON:<br />
+JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE,</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:110%;letter-spacing:2px;">171, FLEET STREET.</p>
+
+<p>1865.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p style="font-size:150%;font-weight:bold;margin-top:4em;text-align:center;">IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY.</p>
+
+
+<h2 class="month">JANUARY.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;The plants intended for large specimens must receive
+their final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their
+foliage without interfering with or injuring each other. The
+side-shoots to be tied out.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Epacrises.</span>&mdash;As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower,
+a little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display
+their spikes of bloom more advantageously.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest
+should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots,
+beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the
+roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice
+moist temperature of 50° by day and 40° by night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves
+removed. The most forward in bud&mdash;such as the <i>Vestitas</i>, <i>Vernix</i>,
+<i>Vasciflora</i>, <i>Aristata</i>, <i>Beaumontia</i>, and many others, to be tied
+out, and arranged for the season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;When large specimens are wanted,<!-- page 008 --> tie out the
+branches at equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot
+as possible. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water
+to be given but sparingly, and not overhead.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if
+kept at 50° in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The
+atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is
+bright; and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into
+bloom to be removed to the warmest part of the house.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Clerodendrons.</span>&mdash;To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced
+and repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow
+seeds, and also of any hard-wooded stove plants.</p>
+
+<p>Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient
+to prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually
+it is necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to
+be kept moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &amp;c.,
+daily. If any plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it
+should be placed in the warmest part of the house, and the ripening
+process encouraged. The Brassias, Cyanoches, C&oelig;logynes,
+Miltonias, and other such plants, when they are beginning to grow,
+to be repotted. The compost to consist of turfy peat mixed with a
+portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least
+half full of very open drainage.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial
+heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature
+without injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to
+begin cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with
+fire the less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of
+sun and light must be embraced for making sure progress with them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Where the trees are coming into bloom it<!-- page 009 --> is necessary to
+be cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have
+expanded their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or
+other artificial heat to be applied moderately&mdash;that is, from 45° by
+night to 55° by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather
+prevails. The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately
+moist, and in a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty
+freely once or twice a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny
+days, and sprinkle the paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be
+rubbed off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long
+enough to admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch
+being broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the
+practice of producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by
+means of dung and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If
+they are to be broken principally by fire heat, either by flues or
+hot-water pipes, copious syringings must be resorted to with tepid
+water once or twice a-day. Fire heat to be applied principally by
+day, with air at the same time, and very moderately at night.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants will now require particular attention and a nice
+discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended
+by all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the
+soil on the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water
+until it gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be
+given before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the
+plant droops and the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is
+then to be discovered by turning the ball out of the pot, when it
+will be seen whether the whole or only a portion of the soil is wet;
+as it sometimes happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it
+shrinks from the sides of the pot when dry, and when<!-- page 010 --> water is given
+it runs down and moistens the outside, without penetrating the ball.
+The evil is corrected by holding it for a short space of time in a
+tub of water of the same temperature as the house. If the soil of
+any plant is sodden with water it should be turned out of the pot,
+and the drainage examined, and no water to be given until it becomes
+thoroughly dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Verbenas.</span>&mdash;They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more
+susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the
+glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew
+appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry,
+they will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not
+suffer for want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60° by fire
+heat, and a fall of 10° may be allowed at night in very cold
+weather. Many of the stove plants&mdash;such as Aphelandras, Justicias,
+Poinsettias, &amp;c.&mdash;may now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a
+few weeks, which will cause them to make an early growth, and to
+come into flower a few weeks sooner next winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesneras.</span>&mdash;Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to
+start into growth to produce a succession of flowers.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Asparagus.</span>&mdash;If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply
+of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness
+is sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the
+top is kept moist by gentle waterings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Beans</span> (Dwarf Kidney).&mdash;Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply
+is wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give
+them frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red
+spider.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If
+the beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it
+like dew at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50° to 60°,
+with air occasionally in favourable weather.</p><!-- page 011 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be
+artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off
+a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be
+carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they
+have been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end
+doors being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top
+daily in favourable weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants
+that are swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual
+increase of heat (from 65° at night to 75° or 80° in the middle of
+the day in clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while
+others that are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or
+more moderate temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric
+humidity. Some of the strongest succession plants that are grown in
+pots to receive their final shift, that they may make their growth
+for fruiting in May or June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where
+the flues run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely
+examined, as they are apt to be injured by fire heat in such a
+situation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame
+where there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to
+their healthy growth than in a house.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the
+night temperature to range from 60° to 65°, with an increase of from
+5° to 10° during the day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PITS AND FRAMES.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully
+exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than
+is absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and
+keep the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and
+<i>Early Horn</i> Carrots, Cauliflower and <i>Walcheren</i> Broccoli, Lettuce,
+and various other things, which will be found useful where the late
+severe weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn
+sowings.</p><!-- page 012 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Ventilation</span> is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always
+unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.
+Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as
+water settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the
+plants, bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their
+blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where they can be
+preserved much longer in perfection. The plants to be looked over
+every morning, and every dead or decaying leaf and flower to be
+removed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such
+coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much
+injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp
+atmosphere. Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them
+at all opportunities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;The plants intended for specimens should be finally
+shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a
+slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and
+free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will
+now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Amaryllis.</span>&mdash;Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show
+signs of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little
+water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orchids.</span>&mdash;If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy
+more time than can be very well spared as spring operations
+accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of
+Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are
+showing signs of growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes,
+fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy insects,
+and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks,<!-- page 013 --> are the materials
+to be used. Any plants that had become very dry should be immersed
+in tepid water for an hour the day previous to shifting. The climate
+of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are
+the best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment
+required for <i>Oncidium Carthaginense</i> would kill <i>O. bifolium</i>, and
+<i>Cattleya Forbesii</i> will thrive where <i>C. Skinneri</i> will die, and in
+like manner with many others.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Capsicum.</span>&mdash;Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be
+placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them
+singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards
+shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be
+planted out on a south border.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate
+temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning
+to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the
+temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh,
+rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects.
+When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off
+the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out
+two shoots from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck
+in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving
+air where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the
+trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they
+are impatient of heat: let 45° be about the maximum, with a very
+free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed,
+let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth
+of 55° to 60°. In such a situation they will want scarcely<!-- page 014 --> any
+water until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Tomatoes.</span>&mdash;Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for
+Capsicums.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are
+sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless
+shoots to be removed&mdash;that is, all that do not show fruit, and are
+not required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take
+off some of the shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If
+two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be removed.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be
+prepared and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply
+for immediate use should be stored in an open shed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;To be potted into larger pots as they
+require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf
+mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a
+moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55°
+in the day. To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days,
+and to be kept free from insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and
+their roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and
+peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced
+to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch
+long they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp,
+where they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in
+heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower
+garden.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Water them with care and moderation. Air to be
+given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied
+only, and then<!-- page 015 --> merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong
+shoots of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the
+best foundation for future good specimens.</p>
+
+<p>Sow seeds of Thunbergias, <i>Phlox Drummondi</i>, Mignonette, <i>Ten-week</i>
+and other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly
+as they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to
+be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gloxinias.</span>&mdash;Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh
+potted in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little
+sand. To be excited in bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesnera zebrina.</span>&mdash;Those which were first in flower should be dried
+off for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding
+water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the
+light.</p>
+
+<p>Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such
+tender annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine
+specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;The plants preparing for ridging out early in February
+will require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water
+occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce
+sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at
+this season. To be kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to
+be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less than 70° by
+day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting
+materials to be always prepared ready to receive the linings when
+the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough to be provided
+with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and
+attention will not be necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue
+syringing, but sprinkle the pathways,<!-- page 016 --> to produce a moist, but not
+too damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh
+air is indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable
+opportunity; and if the cold external air could be made to pass over
+the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in
+contact with the blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly
+kept up until the fruit is fairly set.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially
+those that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more
+water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate
+during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until
+evening, it should be drawn away by means of a syringe having a long
+and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to
+the point of a small stick.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a
+little liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and
+perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there
+is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface
+of the soil to be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near
+the glass.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Continue the treatment as advised last week.</p>
+
+<p>Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and
+Rhubarb.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PITS AND FRAMES.</h4>
+
+<p>Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias,
+and Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed
+forward to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger
+from frost is over.</p><!-- page 017 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">FEBRUARY.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and
+the small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough,
+with a liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept
+rather close until they make fresh roots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas</span> (Indian).&mdash;Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted
+before starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat
+and sand, with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature
+between 60° and 70° to be maintained, with plenty of air in
+favourable weather. Sow seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle
+bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Kalosanthes.</span>&mdash;To be started into growth, potting them in a compost
+of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed
+leaf mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of
+charcoal and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to
+be given, and to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Select young plants of the Boronias and other
+such families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good
+fibrous heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of
+drainage. It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off
+the tops of the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome
+specimens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orange Trees.</span>&mdash;Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed
+from them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin
+to grow, as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean
+without injury.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Stove plants in general will now require an increase<!-- page 018 --> in the amount
+of atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an
+advance to be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar
+heat can be enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial
+atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Crinums.</span>&mdash;Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the
+ball of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of
+heat to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be
+liberally supplied with water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gloriosa superba.</span>&mdash;Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous
+loam, with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No
+water to be applied to the tubers until they have commenced their
+growth.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-PIT.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet
+Brier, and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable
+and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65° to 70° to be
+maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have
+made three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with
+liquid manure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the
+reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled
+their pots with roots.</p>
+
+<p id="err1"><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of
+the year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees
+several times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all
+weathers until the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to
+the early house, when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to
+leave one-third more on the trees than will be required to ripen
+off. If Peaches are intended to be grown in pots for next season,
+the maiden plants should now be procured, and potted in nine or ten
+inch pots. The <i>Royal George</i> Peach and <i>Violette Hâtive</i> Nectarine
+are the most eligible for that purpose.</p><!-- page 019 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the
+surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove
+them. The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house
+or pit as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we
+would not advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of
+starting them into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are
+good, healthy plants, they will have formed their fructiferous parts
+before this time, and therefore should not be allowed to get dry,
+but be watered when they require it with tepid water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The successional houses to be treated nearly in all
+respects the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be
+increased in accordance with the increase of light rather more
+rapidly at an early stage of their growth than that of the house in
+which forcing was commenced in December. When Vines for the early
+crops are grown in pots, put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge
+them in a dung-frame or pit, with a bottom heat between 70° and 80°.
+The <i>Hamburghs</i>, <i>Black Prince</i>, <i>Muscadine</i>, and <i>Sweetwater</i> are
+the kinds to be preferred for that purpose.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter,
+now begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all
+others that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the
+better enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check
+or hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to
+be considered the most favourable season for a general shift,
+nevertheless it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once
+or twice during their season of growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and
+cutting back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots
+is desirable. To be frequently<!-- page 020 --> syringed, to keep down red spider,
+as they are more liable than other plants to be infested by them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse
+plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove
+plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil,
+consisting of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general
+rule they are repotted in February and August; but exceptions are
+sometimes made, and a shift is given whenever the roots become
+cramped or matted in the pot. The knife to be used cautiously,
+unless with the tall-growing sorts.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gloxinias.</span>&mdash;To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight
+ago. When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil,
+and give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil
+will be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little
+may be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they
+advance in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where
+the temperature is about 60°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Luculia gratissima.</span>&mdash;To be potted in a compost consisting of half
+turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with
+good drainage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Musa Cavendishii.</span>&mdash;To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam,
+vegetable soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand,
+with plenty of drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a
+bark-bed, and to keep the roots moist.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the <span class="sc">Orchids</span> may now be potted, and then placed in the
+warmest part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be
+supplied with a little fresh material, taking care that the embryo
+buds are not covered. Look over the fastenings of all that are on
+blocks, or in baskets, and renew the wires where necessary. The
+temperature to be about 65° by day, allowing it to range to 70° or
+75° by sun-heat.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Keep up the temperature from 50° to 55° while the trees
+are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not in
+flower to be frequently syringed.</p><!-- page 021 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;The greatest attention should be paid to the state of
+the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the
+heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being,
+as it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer,
+which is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in
+the frame; cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will
+allow it, a small portion of air should be left on every night,
+which may be given in the evening after the frame has been closed
+for two or three hours. Keep up the heat by stirring, renewing, or
+topping-up the linings; and attend to the stopping of the plants,
+and the earthing-up of the hills, as the roots make their appearance
+on the surface.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully
+expanded.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if
+growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed
+with soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or
+a little above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in
+clear, mild weather as soon as the fruit is set.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong,
+healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring them,
+leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if
+unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely
+away, and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive
+and healthy, and potting them in fresh soil.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in
+a gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless
+buds and branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in
+regularly, and the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left
+on each Vine than it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About
+one dozen bunches are a good average crop for each rod. The
+temperature to range from 55° to 60° at night, with an increase of
+5° to 10° during the day, and even higher during sunshine.</p><!-- page 022 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged,
+cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other
+considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season of
+blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer.
+Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all
+other such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then
+kept close for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly
+to be kept down.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Verbenas.</span>&mdash;Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes,
+and all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for
+bedding-out purposes.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days
+lengthen. Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias,
+and Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in,
+and started in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high
+temperature causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable
+to keep up a healthy atmosphere of from 55° to 65°, with an increase
+of a few degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for
+a very short time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid
+draughts at this early period of the year. All growing plants to be
+watered at the roots only, being careful not to allow any water to
+lodge in the axils of the leaves to cause decay. To preserve the
+roots of some Orchids in a healthy state it is necessary to grow
+them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made proportionate to the
+specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel of the plant to be
+placed close to the end of the log, to give as much space as
+possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well on
+blocks without moss:&mdash;<i>Barkeria spectabilis</i>, <i>Leptotes bicolor</i>,
+<i>Phalænopsis amabilis</i>, and <i>Sophronitis cernua</i>, the Brassavolas,
+the Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Lælias, and
+nearly<!-- page 023 --> all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the
+Schombergias.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the
+fruit blossom when open.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of
+air are excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with
+water, and the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be
+done gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and
+injurious change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of
+moisture to be kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55° to 65°
+and 70° by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in
+bloom; the bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy
+setters, to be artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil
+for that purpose.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in
+raising the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning
+temperature is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they
+require it, and to be syringed overhead in the morning and evening
+of every clear day unless the plants are in bloom, or ripening their
+fruit. Any crowns, suckers, or small plants not well established
+will do well in a pit or frame on a bed of leaves, or well sweetened
+dung, where they will make a rapid and vigorous growth during the
+summer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Attend to last week&rsquo;s instructions as to stopping all
+laterals, &amp;c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all
+the principal shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow
+the head or hand to touch the berries. Give them plenty of
+air-moisture during their swelling season; to be discontinued when
+they begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts&mdash;such as the <i>Black
+Damascus</i>, <i>Cannon Hall Muscat</i>, &amp;c.&mdash;will set better by thinning
+the blossom-buds before expansion, by which a more regular and
+compact bunch will be produced. Late Vines should be pruned and
+dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be removed, which will
+retard their breaking, and benefit the trees.</p><!-- page 024 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these
+houses, and then particular attention must be given to the New
+Holland plants, Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat,
+that they do not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is
+thoroughly moistened at least once a-week.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PITS AND FRAMES.</h4>
+
+<p>Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Cob&oelig;as, Lophospermums,
+Maurandyas, Rodochitons, and Tropæolums, deserve attention at this
+time, increasing them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also
+worthy of attention, such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas,
+Schizanthuses, with others which may all be forwarded in heat.
+Whoever has not yet attended to the propagation of plants for
+bedding out, should now begin, without further delay, to put in
+cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias, Salvias,
+Scarlet Geraniums, &amp;c., to have good plants in May and June. All
+straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy
+plants.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back,
+such as the <i>Eranthemum pulchellum</i>, <i>Euphorbia jacquiniæflora</i>,
+<i>Geissomeria longiflora</i>, <i>Gesnera lateritia</i>, Justicias, <i>Linum
+trigynum</i>, <i>Poinsettia pulcherrima</i>, and others. A bottom heat will
+be necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about
+three weeks or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they
+require shifting, to be attended to. The condition or fitness for
+this must, in a great measure, be determined by the progress the
+shoots and roots have made.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-PIT.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes,
+Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks,
+Rhododendrons, and Roses<!-- page 025 --> in varieties. A batch of last year&rsquo;s young
+Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and <i>Salvia patens</i>, to be shaken out,
+repotted, and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe
+Amaranths, &amp;c.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping,
+set the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames
+watered with warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots.
+Water overhead on fine days, shutting up with 75° or 80° of heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all
+times except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable
+occasions, shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep
+down the green fly and look well after caterpillars.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead,
+except on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the
+fruit to drop off or to turn yellow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they
+advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not
+wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of
+the temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their
+fruit. Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and
+disbudding, merely sufficient wood for next spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the
+fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking
+care that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants.
+The plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with
+clean soot water, air to be admitted on every favourable
+opportunity, but cold draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept
+up in succession-pits worked with linings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and
+in favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure
+water, and the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning
+process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to
+induce a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be
+properly trained up; but none<!-- page 026 --> to be allowed to touch the glass. All
+small bunches to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set,
+the heat by day may be allowed to rise from 70° to 80°. See to the
+border coverings, if out-doors, as also border waterings, if
+in-doors. Be careful when admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid
+cold currents and changes, for in the space of an hour we have
+sometimes strong sunshine, sleet or snow, and cutting winds. Vines
+in pots to be supplied with plenty of manure water in all stages of
+growth, but especially when swelling off their fruit.</p><!-- page 027 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">MARCH.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of
+air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and
+also to temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side.
+If severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used
+in consequence, many plants that may appear all right may,
+nevertheless, be very dry, and if they are not examined, and when
+very dry, well soaked with water, they will soon show unmistakeable
+signs of approaching death.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas</span> (Indian).&mdash;Young plants that have commenced their growth to
+be repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &amp;c., and keep them
+in a warm, moist situation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs.</span>&mdash;Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould,
+with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth
+in foliage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy
+heath-soil full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure
+that the ball is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly
+dry when that operation is performed the waterings afterwards given
+will pass freely through the fresh soil without penetrating the old
+ball. Give them all the air possible, avoiding north or north-east
+winds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Potting</span> must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the
+occupants of these houses.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &amp;c., forward as
+briskly as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in
+growth is advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check
+the increase of insects.</p><!-- page 028 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orchids.</span>&mdash;The general collection to be favoured with a good
+steaming every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done
+by sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing
+state to be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a
+perspiration during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are
+generally increased by passing a sharp knife between the
+pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave at least two or three undisturbed
+next the growing shoots) so as to sever one or more of the dormant
+bulbs from the parent plant, which should remain until it shows
+signs of growth, when it may be taken off and potted.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom,
+plenty of air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up
+with a little extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure
+may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause
+the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to
+be stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to
+the linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry
+atmosphere when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young
+shoots, disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the
+border is necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious
+errors may be made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or
+by giving too much. The temperature of the early house to be from
+55° to 60° by night, ranging from 75° to 80° by sun heat, and
+allowing 65° by artificial heat, on dull days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;A day temperature of 75° to 80° to be maintained during the
+progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric
+moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat,
+and to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy
+action of the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright
+sunshine.</p><!-- page 029 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the
+heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or
+haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The
+moss or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe,
+will keep the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently
+induce a mass of roots to be produced there. That by watering
+occasionally with liquid manure will contribute to sustain the
+vigour of the trees.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur at
+this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant
+sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention
+is necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state,
+may be given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds
+excluded. Frequent watering will also be necessary, and fires to be
+dispensed with, or only used occasionally, merely to ward off the
+rigour of sharp nights. The plants in good health, and well rooted,
+to receive a liberal shift. All plants when shifted to be
+accommodated with a little extra heat and moisture in the atmosphere
+until they begin to make fresh roots, when they will require to be
+more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy, vigorous growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;The plants that have finished flowering to be removed
+to a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by
+frequent syringings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to
+form handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house
+to be given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into
+larger pots as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of
+air, light, and room.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;They require to be accommodated with a<!-- page 030 --> warm, moist
+temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the
+syringe, to make them large pyramidal specimens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Attention to be paid to their training, to watering,
+and to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all
+that may be wanted for late blooming.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as
+possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during
+the day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the
+bottom heat ranges from 70° to 80°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orchids</span> will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of
+wood with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be
+supplied to those in pots in a growing state.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding,
+tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing
+morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of
+solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to
+obtain satisfactory results.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as
+either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline
+rapidly during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and
+air to be given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape,
+taking care to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing
+a mat or canvass before the openings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to
+be given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience,
+the trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves
+into which they root, and where they are allowed to remain until
+they have borne their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots
+are cut back to the pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined
+in brick pits, where short-jointed fruitful wood<!-- page 031 --> is produced
+without root pruning, which is necessary when the roots are allowed
+to ramble without control.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will
+have a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be
+most wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow
+seed for a succession.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be
+supplied with soot or other manure water occasionally during the
+whole time they are swelling the fruit until they attain their full
+size; watering and syringing overhead should be withheld when they
+begin to change colour, to give flavour to the fruit. The
+succession-plants recently potted to be very moderately supplied
+with manure water, and in a very diluted state until their roots
+reach the sides of the pots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;Introduce succession-plants under glass, according
+to the demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom
+and near the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of
+fresh air without currents.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to
+leave more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to
+perfection. The borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be
+maintained at the roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply
+good soakings of manure water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the
+late Vines as soon as the bunches are perceptible.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the
+hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in
+good time to acquire a vigorous growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cacti.</span>&mdash;The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them
+an alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of
+lime rubbish and loam,<!-- page 032 --> with a little cowdung, and in well-drained
+pots. In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered;
+and from October to March to be kept perfectly dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;To be shifted into larger pots in a
+compost of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy
+peat, old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss
+on the crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be
+freely given, avoiding currents of cold air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be
+stopped, to produce a more uniform and compact plant.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Lilium lancifolium.</span>&mdash;To be potted either in a good peat, with a
+little silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver
+sand. The bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of
+the pot to allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The
+house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them
+to push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have
+not been stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their
+trusses, on sunny days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up
+warm, with the sun upon it, about three or four o&rsquo;clock in the
+afternoon.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a
+plentiful supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80°
+or more, allowing a fall of 20° during the night. Shake out and
+repot in succession the stove plants that have been previously
+recommended to be headed back, and encourage a free growth by
+plunging them, if possible, in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used
+until they have filled them with roots, they may then receive one
+bold shift that might probably be sufficient for the season.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the
+operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the
+action of the roots. Endeavour<!-- page 033 --> to keep the atmosphere like fine
+mild weather in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit,
+give the trees no water at the roots, as this is generally one of
+the chief causes of so much of it falling off at that time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally
+supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or five
+eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up
+vacancies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &amp;c., as
+required. Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and
+lively atmosphere during that period. Air to be given freely in
+favourable weather, but cautiously, with some contrivance to break
+cold winds. Do not allow a plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently
+strong to sustain it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that
+are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the
+period)&mdash;say 65° by day and 60° by night; but when they commence
+their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant
+shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when
+about the size of Peas.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with
+manure water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if
+recently shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun
+is powerful; to be kept rather close and dry, except slight
+sprinklings over the tops, until they have taken root, when they may
+be watered freely, and will generally require no more to be given
+for a week or ten days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have
+been thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and
+moisture. The night temperature to be kept up to 65°, with an
+increase of 10° by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second
+house may now be in bloom, and will require attention in tying the
+shoots and keeping up the necessary amount of heat, with less
+moisture. Where the fruit is set, give the Vines a good syringing,
+to wash off the flowers; after which the leaves and fruit should not
+be again wetted, but to be supplied with atmospheric moisture by
+watering<!-- page 034 --> the floor of the house, and sprinkling the flues or pipes,
+or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of tepid manure
+water to the Vines fruiting in pots.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or
+are in active growth, constant attention will be required for the
+judicious regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh
+air during fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water
+to the roots, and atmospheric moisture.</p>
+
+<p>When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which
+inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in
+proper condition for the growing season. No fear need then be
+apprehended from potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling,
+&amp;c., and admit plenty of air, bearing in mind former directions as
+to draughts, &amp;c. If the plants in the borders, or any of the
+climbers, are dry, give them a good soaking of weak, tepid manure
+water. Trellis climbers to be frequently attended to&mdash;stopping,
+training, and arranging their shoots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Balsams.</span>&mdash;Encourage the growth of them and other such tender
+annuals by potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the
+side of the pot.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;Shift on the young stock, keeping the
+plants well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots
+up to the lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh
+rootlets from the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops
+of gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cockscombs.</span>&mdash;To remain in small pots until they begin to show
+flower.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Dahlias.</span>&mdash;Pot off cuttings as soon as struck.</p><!-- page 035 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots,
+according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by
+placing them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as
+soon as they are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature
+similar to that in which they were struck.</p>
+
+<p>Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy
+circulation of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove
+plants. Continue to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last
+week, those which have been flowering through the winter. To be then
+favoured with a bottom heat of from 75° to 80°, and slightly shaded
+during bright sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for
+specimens will probably require a second shift, see to them in time;
+and if they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a
+large shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air
+at all favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with
+moisture. The surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week,
+and sprinkle it occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist,
+congenial atmosphere about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun
+heat. Look sharply after mealy-bug and thrips.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;The plants established in small pots may be removed
+into the flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orchids.</span>&mdash;Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them,
+as they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much
+water over those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may
+damp off. Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails.
+<i>Calantha veratifolia</i>, <i>Neottia picta</i>, <i>N. elata</i>, Phaius of
+sorts, some varieties of Stanhopea, <i>Zygopetaltum Mackayii</i>, and
+other such Orchids that are now making their growth, would be
+benefited by an application of clear, diluted manure water
+occasionally; a kindly humidity to be kept up, and the shading to be
+in readiness for use during bright mid-day sun.</p><!-- page 036 -->
+
+
+<h4>PITS AND FRAMES.</h4>
+
+<p>Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give
+air daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot
+off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias,
+Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Beans</span> (French).&mdash;Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal
+supply of manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the
+temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to
+be liberally supplied.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give
+a little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off,
+when they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As
+soon as the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame,
+never allow any of the laterals to grow more than two joints before
+being stopped. Stop frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit
+show at a joint pinch one away.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the
+walls exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close,
+moist heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The
+plants that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air
+at every favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful
+wood. The shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that
+are not wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65°, and air to
+be admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75°; but to be given
+very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of
+young plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong
+and vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when
+they require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the
+beds by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated
+in accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats
+do not hang over either the front or back of the frames.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;Collect materials for fresh beds, and<!-- page 037 --> give those that
+have been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water;
+sprinkle the floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The
+conditions of success are to have the materials for making the beds
+well prepared and sweet&mdash;that is, free from rank steam, and the
+spawn to be put in whilst the heat keeps regular and moderate, and
+the beds are coated over to keep it so until the spawn is well
+established.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those
+that are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning,
+leaving more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is
+liable to drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where
+it is intended to force Peaches, Cherries, &amp;c., in pots next season,
+and some suitable trees have to be provided, it should be no longer
+postponed. It is a good plan to pot some maiden plants every year,
+to succeed any that may become useless.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water,
+and a humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80° to 85°
+during the day, and as near 70° as possible at night; the
+succession-pits from 75° to 80° during day, and 60° to 65° at night.
+These particulars to be modified by the state of the weather,
+whether sunny or dull.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;They require plenty of light and air to set their
+fruit, when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove,
+or any other house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The
+plants swelling their fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a
+sprinkling overhead daily. When the fruit begins to change colour
+the sprinkling to be dispensed with, and the supply of water at the
+roots to be given sparingly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air,
+accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention
+to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming
+the borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present
+under the influence of the March winds. Attend to last week&rsquo;s advice
+as to tying, disbudding, &amp;c., and proceed with the thinning the
+fruit in the succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set.
+When thinning be as careful as<!-- page 038 --> possible of the bunches&mdash;neither
+pull them about with the hand, by which rust on the berries is
+frequently produced, nor with whatever the shoulders may be held up
+by at the time of thinning, as, by the twisting of the stalks,
+shanking is not unfrequently produced. Attention to be given in
+stopping all laterals, and breaking off all useless shoots for the
+more free admission of light, which is most beneficial in every
+stage of their growth. Look over houses where the fruit is swelling,
+and see if any of the bunches would be improved by tying up the
+shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should be
+inarched before the wood gets too old.</p><!-- page 039 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">APRIL.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses
+have been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the
+sooner they are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere,
+sprinkling the plants with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and
+pay attention to the destruction of insects the moment you can
+perceive them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to
+syringe them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and
+maintaining a kindly humidity during the time they are making their
+growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Supply them liberally with water when in full growth,
+and shade slightly during bright sunshine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling
+growth to be stopped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Liliums.</span>&mdash;Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing
+of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Give such plants as young Boronias,
+Dillwynias, Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas,
+Polygalas, &amp;c., a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the
+young growth as it may require it; keep them clean, and repot them
+when necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss
+of time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will
+feed greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of
+the pot. Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation<!-- page 040 --> of
+air, using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe
+frequently air plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if
+possible, of 80° towards three or four o&rsquo;clock.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Shift them, and also <i>Gesneras</i>, and pot others for
+succession.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be
+reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some
+time afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before;
+and also cuttings of <i>Eranthemums</i>, <i>Euphorbias</i>, <i>Gesneras</i>,
+<i>Justicias</i>, <i>Linums</i>, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Clerodendrons.</span>&mdash;Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orchids.</span>&mdash;They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere
+for a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied
+until that period, and then with moderation.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-PIT.</h4>
+
+<p>Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such
+plants from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and
+autumn decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set,
+the temperature may be raised to 60° by day and 50° by night, and
+syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp
+look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle
+in them destroyed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally
+with water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye.
+Temperature, 65° by day and 55° by night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state
+of the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes
+show one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which
+should be picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of
+others. The vines, or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and<!-- page 041 -->
+when they have nearly filled the frame, or other allotted space,
+several fruit should be impregnated at one time. Sow for
+successional crop.</p>
+
+<p id="err2"><span class="sc">Peaches</span> and <span class="sc">Nectarines</span>.&mdash;Pinch off laterals, and tie in the
+shoots as they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance,
+fumigate the house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them
+in tobacco water. When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin
+them to the number you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors,
+which is better than pulling them off.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pine Apples.</span>&mdash;The plants should now be making rapid growth, and,
+therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants
+may now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting
+those that are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from
+80° to 85° during day, and from 65° to 70° at night. The successions
+from 75° to 80° by day, and from 65° to 70° at night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of
+water, syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines
+in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now
+commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable
+opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which
+frequently cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the
+later houses, attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The
+last house to be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most
+cases, will be considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe
+frequently; to apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and
+to postpone the application of fire-heat as long as possible.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the
+greenhouse to a cold pit, where they<!-- page 042 --> can be protected from frost.
+It will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other
+such plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas.</span>&mdash;Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their
+fresh growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a
+short time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants
+making wood, with a temperature of about 65° by day and 55° by
+night. Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy,
+short-jointed wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright
+sunshine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Regular attention to be given to them, that they may
+not suffer by want of water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in
+pots which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas,
+Thunbergias, Nierembergias, Tropæolums, and other such plants of a
+slender and tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion
+being composed of leaf mould.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention
+without delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of
+their growth; as the free-growing kinds will require more room than
+the less vigorous ones.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;As many of them are now either in flower, or
+approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger
+quantity of water,&mdash;more especially large specimens not shifted
+since last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading
+shoots, to produce bushy plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and
+fumigating, if the green fly appears.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the
+free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing;
+using shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted,
+give less water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first
+watering<!-- page 043 --> will be moist enough for some time. Some of the
+free-growing kinds of Cattleyas, Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums,
+Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should be encouraged to make kindly
+growth by frequent syringings about their pots, blocks, or baskets.</p>
+
+
+<p>FORCING-HOUSES.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;The principal objects to be attended to are&mdash;abundance
+of air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist
+atmosphere, and the free application of the syringe. The temperature
+the same as last week. Particular attention in watering to be paid
+to the trees in pots,&mdash;as too much is as bad as, if not worse than,
+too little.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth
+eye. Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to
+change for ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak
+tepid liquid manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when
+they are confined in pots or tubs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a
+crop are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of
+each other, they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than
+cure, keep the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent
+syringings in fine weather, and closing early; insects will but
+rarely, if ever, attack thriving plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches</span> and <span class="sc">Nectarines</span>.&mdash;As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the
+early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak
+liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all
+laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin
+them; as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an
+earlier period of the season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pine Apples.</span>&mdash;Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong
+solar heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid;
+therefore, water must be applied to both roots and leaves.
+Succession plants to be shaded during sudden bright sunshine or
+sunbursts; and be guided in the application of water by the active
+or inactive state of the roots.</p><!-- page 044 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance.
+The first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of
+Peas; the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after
+the berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches
+long, crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and
+forward, as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to
+be tied up as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine
+afternoon, and close the house early. Give air early in the morning,
+that the leaves may become gradually dry before the sun acts
+powerfully upon them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the
+health of the plants. By such means they will remain longer in
+bloom, and will be more enjoyable for parties inspecting them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Continue to encourage the growth of those that have
+done flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent
+syringings, and by a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any
+have made their growth, and have formed their blossom-buds, they
+will require more light and less moisture for the future.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is
+necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for
+want of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful,
+slight shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the
+day, to prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty
+of air to be given when the weather is mild.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture,
+they will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into
+their blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Top and syringe frequently<!-- page 045 --> all such plants as
+are growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it
+in due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance)
+may be given to plants that are well established with roots and
+showing their trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for
+each plant to develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading
+only when there is a fear of scorching from the usual sudden
+sunbursts of April weather. Ply the syringe every fine evening to
+refresh the plants, and to keep down insects, until the flowers
+expand, when syringing should be discontinued.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth.
+Allow no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist
+atmosphere. Give air when the thermometer indicates 90°. Continue to
+shift Gesneras, Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants,
+as they require it. The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the
+Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias, Phaiuses, Sobralias,
+Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now be growing freely,
+and will therefore require a considerable amount of atmospheric
+moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little management
+in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside shading, and
+will give an additional feature of interest to the house. The plants
+on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very frequent
+syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants in bloom
+may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a drier
+atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;When they begin to change they will require free
+exposure to light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour;
+and, at the same time, a diminution in the supply of water.
+Carefully examine all curled leaves, and destroy the grubs they
+contain. If the trees are very luxuriant, and are making strong
+foreright<!-- page 046 --> shoots, stop them to within a few buds of the main
+branch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they
+are swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and
+thin out any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in
+very hot weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession
+crops.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches</span> and <span class="sc">Nectarines</span>.&mdash;When the fruit in the early house has gone
+through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should
+take place; the borders&mdash;if inside, or out, or both&mdash;should be
+copiously supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a
+weak habit, from poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be
+necessary. Syringings to be given twice a-day&mdash;early in the morning
+and at shutting-up time. The night temperature to be no more than
+50°; but during the day it may range to 85°, if accompanied with air
+in liberal quantities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pine Apples.</span>&mdash;Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when
+they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist
+atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn
+out the plants, if preferred.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65°
+to 70° by day, and 55° to 60° by night; succession crops rather
+cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems, and
+thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of
+runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few
+berries may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the
+time of their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature&mdash;about 75°
+by day and 60° by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in
+course of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In
+later houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the
+heat be moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all
+favourable opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near
+the light.</p><!-- page 047 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove,
+forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming
+season, will require particular care to be taken in the application
+of water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to
+stop, prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due
+time. Stir the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply
+fresh soil, to maintain the plants in good health.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas, Chinese</span>.&mdash;Supply them liberally with water at their roots
+during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from
+injuring the bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span>.&mdash;The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in
+a gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be
+grown in a cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being
+too much drawn. Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping
+the plants well down in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets
+from the stem. Cuttings taken off now will root readily in a gentle
+bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias</span>.&mdash;Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect
+the young leaves.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias</span>.&mdash;Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use
+the syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be
+long-jointed, to produce uniform and bushy plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span>.&mdash;Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded
+plants that are now in bloom, or approaching that state.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums</span>.&mdash;Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late
+blooming should now be stopped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian</span>.&mdash;Treat as advised for <i>Azaleas</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly
+increase the temperature. Shade with tiffany,<!-- page 048 --> or close-meshed
+netting, in bright sunny weather; removing it early in the
+afternoon. Water liberally all that are making free growth. Repot
+any that may require it as soon as they have fairly commenced their
+growth. Continue to give liberal shifts to the free-growing young
+stock of stove plants, slightly shading for a few hours in hot
+weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and producing a kindly
+humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful
+tribe of plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the
+adornment of the conservatory.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Clerodendrons.</span>&mdash;Encourage by a moist heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies
+of water, if in pots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gardenias.</span>&mdash;They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung
+linings is most congenial to them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesnera zebrina.</span>&mdash;Pot bulbs for late flowering.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty
+of air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in
+tubs, or pots, to become dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;The same as last week.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches</span> and <span class="sc">Nectarines</span>.&mdash;Keep the leading shoots regularly tied
+in, and pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pine Apples.</span>&mdash;It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or
+have already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit,
+that more air may be admitted to them than to the others more
+advanced, to produce a more robust growth, and to avoid the
+necessity of using stakes to support the fruit. Air to be admitted
+freely to the succession plants at every favourable opportunity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries</span> (in pots).&mdash;Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather
+dry atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure
+flavour. When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and
+the atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid
+currents of frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass
+according to the demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has
+been picked to the open air till well hardened<!-- page 049 --> off. Give them the
+protection of a cold pit for a time, as they are invaluable in
+open-air plantations.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on
+every favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the
+morning before the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed
+vapour, which would affect them injuriously, from settling on the
+bunches. Attend to stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots,
+tying in leaders, &amp;c., in the later houses. Remove the top dressing
+from the outside border, to allow the increasing power of the sun to
+act beneficially upon it.</p><!-- page 050 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">MAY.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger
+pots; and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose
+habit of growth, to make them compact and bushy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas.</span>&mdash;As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to
+make their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them
+occasionally with manure water, and shade for a short time in the
+middle of the day when the sun is powerful.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias.</span>&mdash;Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade
+those in bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the
+development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Keep all neatly trained.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;The late-flowering sorts, or such
+as have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another
+season, may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as
+require it must be shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular
+attention being paid that they do not get dry at the root.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such
+as are wanted to flower late.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in
+correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early
+in the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice
+stove plants, and keep all free from insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Pot off.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;Continue to repot as they go out of bloom,<!-- page 051 --> pruning in
+any straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them
+close, and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing.
+Keep them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to
+expand. The following are good sorts:&mdash;Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina,
+Fuchsioides, Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gloxinias.</span>&mdash;Repot where necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Succulents.</span>&mdash;Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited
+into vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and
+moisture.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Temperature 65° to 70° by day and 50° at night, and give
+plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use
+the syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in
+the afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening,
+the syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier;
+but, as there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water
+must not be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening,
+as it would endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more
+sparingly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is
+safely set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure
+water. Let swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the
+light.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both
+increase the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom
+of the tree. The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the
+same purpose, and to keep down insects. Air and light to be
+admitted, to give flavour and colouring to the ripening fruit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be
+treated with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot
+water, or both combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in
+foliage and growth, with the caution that it be given in a warm,
+clear state, and not too strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm
+afternoons, and close up with a temperature of 85° or 90°; giving
+air<!-- page 052 --> again towards evening. When indications of ripening by changing
+colour appear, desist from the use of the syringe, and give them no
+further supplies at the root.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a
+frame where a free admission of air can be given.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next
+year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of
+pot room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some
+of the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as
+they advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and
+other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a
+brisk day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of
+blooming, and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction
+to a night-temperature of 65° or 68°, to suit the other varieties.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid
+atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted.
+Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them,
+before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for
+bedding out, and let them remain for a short time under the
+protection of a cold frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at
+night with mats, or other such protecting materials. This
+gradually-hardening-off will better enable them to withstand
+unfavourable weather, if it should occur after they are planted out.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas.</span>&mdash;All irregularities of growth should be corrected by
+pruning. We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning
+on such plants; they had been cut in severely last season by
+removing strong, straggling branches of old wood, to give some a
+spherical and others a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was
+reduced,<!-- page 053 --> the plant fresh potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the
+peat soil rammed as hard as it was possible to make it; then
+watered, and introduced to heat. The plants treated in that manner
+are now covered with bloom, and in a high state of vigour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Some of them of weak growth, and which
+naturally make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending
+down the branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string
+attached to the rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the
+plant at its base is hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of
+the sap will induce an increased supply of shoots. Pick off the
+seed-pods as the plants go out of bloom. Cut back and arrange the
+shoots in the best manner, to produce compact growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross
+habit, will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure
+water. For that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and
+to one peck add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When
+taking it for use draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering
+twice a week. Give air freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants
+overhead till the flowers expand, when syringing should be
+discontinued. As the petals are apt to drop very soon in hot
+weather, it is recommended to touch the centre of the flower with a
+camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum water, which will
+stick the petals together and prolong the blooming. Such is the
+general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such
+plants as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent
+attention to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently,
+to regulate their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of
+trouble and confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as
+Brugmansias, Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias,
+and those winter-flowering plants <i>Euphorbia jaquiniflora</i> and the
+<i>Gesnera bulbosa</i>. Where there is<!-- page 054 --> only one house in which to grow
+Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must be made to suit the
+natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady woods of the East, and
+those which inhabit high and airy regions in the Western hemisphere.
+To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free circulation of
+air during the early part of the day, with an abundance of
+atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a
+high degree of temperature.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded
+situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The
+shoots to be staked out neatly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesneras</span> to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gloxinias.</span>&mdash;The same as <i>Achimenes</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the
+fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their
+fruit. Keep them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little
+value.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid
+wetting the fruit when it begins to soften.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the
+linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep
+the foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be
+produced. When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in
+them with a little assistance from dung heat at bottom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees,
+the fruit of which are ripening.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Continue the previous instructions in the management of the
+plants in the different stages of growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good
+time. Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of
+<i>Muscats</i>, <i>West&rsquo;s St. Peter&rsquo;s</i>, and other shy setters. Be sure that
+inside borders are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient
+quantities to thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil.</p><!-- page 055 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn
+decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and
+water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas.</span>&mdash;Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely
+potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat
+amongst all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the
+supply of water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from
+flagging, will induce the production of blossom-buds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Epacris.</span>&mdash;Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts
+that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath
+soil, rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for
+some time after being newly shifted, require particular attention in
+watering, that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be
+placed in a cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine.
+The stopping or pinching out the points of strong shoots must be
+regularly attended to during their growing season, to establish a
+uniformity of sturdy growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;All that have flowered, and have
+made their season&rsquo;s growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames,
+to allow those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air,
+sun and light.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at
+favourable opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very
+freely, and should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to
+stopping, training, &amp;c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot
+room, and allow them all the sunshine they will bear without
+scorching; also, allow them sufficient space for the development of
+their foliage. Plenty of moisture is now requisite to encourage a
+free growth in Orchids, to get their pseudo-bulbs<!-- page 056 --> firm, well
+nourished, and ripened in good time. Free ventilation in favourable
+weather and a slight shading in bright sunshine are also requisites
+for their healthy growth.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even
+to the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather.
+Fires may be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very
+cold.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth;
+discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They
+frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants,
+they will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is
+swelling off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants
+overhead, and to shut up early every fine afternoon with a good
+heat. Lay the fruit on a tile or piece of slate.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen,
+admit air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the
+lights entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct
+influence of the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained.
+Continue to stop all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young
+wood. Some persons lay in plenty of young wood to select from in
+winter pruning; but fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over
+the tree, is best attained by the judicious and successive thinning
+of useless shoots during their growing season. Continue to tie in
+the shoots of the late houses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pineries.</span>&mdash;When the repotting of the plants has recently taken
+place it will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright
+sunshine, for a few days; but for the general stock shading should
+be dispensed with as much as possible&mdash;as short, stiff leaves and
+sturdy growth are best attained by judicious airings and humidity.
+Do not water much at the root immediately after repotting. Maintain
+a brisk bottom heat to the succession plants. Admit plenty of air
+during favourable weather.</p><!-- page 057 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vineries.</span>&mdash;As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is
+advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to
+retain and to preserve with the greatest care the principal
+leaves&mdash;as the good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition
+of the tree for the ensuing season will depend upon the number and
+healthy state of the principal leaves.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a
+liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight
+shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas, Chinese</span>.&mdash;When done blooming, they succeed best in a close
+pit, kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the
+day. If they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery,
+or in any other large house where they can stand at a distance from
+the glass without shading.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Balsams</span> and <span class="sc">Cockscombs</span>.&mdash;Promote their growth by shifting them
+into larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the
+glass, and heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias</span> to be treated as advised for <i>Azaleas</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Geraniums.</span>&mdash;If any remain after the flower-garden masses are
+furnished, they should be potted and treated with every attention as
+to watering, &amp;c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow
+freely, to be stopped, to make bushy plants. <i>Calceolarias</i>,
+<i>Fuchsias</i>, <i>Petunias</i>, <i>Verbenas</i>, &amp;c., treated in a similar
+manner, will be useful as a reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants
+that are now in bloom, and to fill up vacancies as they occur in the
+beds and borders.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;Many being now in full growth will
+require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather.
+Many fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering;
+for if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours<!-- page 058 -->
+to restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Ornamental stove plants&mdash;such as Brugmansias, Centradenias,
+Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras,
+Justicias, Poinsettias, &amp;c., to be supplied with clear liquid
+manure, and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the
+free-growing plants will require shifting occasionally. The great
+object should be to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to
+secure luxuriant foliage at the right season, when there will be
+more time for the wood to be properly matured for winter. The
+syringings to be given early in the afternoon, that the plants may
+get dry before night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine
+effect.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the
+fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling
+their fruit. Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free
+from insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck,
+the cuttings should be put in at once.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for
+ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the
+ball of earth is well soaked with water before planting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with
+abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is
+ripening.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to
+the ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether
+from the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the
+inside borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour
+that arises may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if
+dry, should also be watered as far as the roots extend, and then
+mulched, to prevent evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the
+early-forced trees have naked<!-- page 059 --> branches, some of the earliest-made
+wood may be taken from the trees, and buds inserted from it in the
+barren parts. Buds inserted now may start into growth in July, and
+be stopped when about six inches long, to get the wood well ripened.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;A bottom heat from 80° to 85° must be kept up to the plants
+intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where
+practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to
+remain in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with
+water, and occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth
+of the suckers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature
+may be allowed to rise to 90°, with sun heat, and to decline to 60°
+at night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be
+covetous to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad
+effects. Stop laterals, and use the syringe freely in the
+afternoons.</p><!-- page 060 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">JUNE.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azalea Indica.</span>&mdash;Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after
+they have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an
+abundance of water, and syringing freely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias.</span>&mdash;Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and
+remove them to a cold frame.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;The young stock will now succeed
+best in a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass
+to be well washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes,
+above the ground level.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from
+scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late
+flowering.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Petunias.</span>&mdash;Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating
+pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums,
+Verbenas, Heliotropes, &amp;c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours
+for the conservatory.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping.
+The Aërides, Dendrobiums, Phalænopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses,
+Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will
+now require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings.
+Gongoras, Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &amp;c., when full of roots in
+baskets, require a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot
+Cymbidiums, Peristerias, &amp;c., starting into growth. Aërides, Vandas,
+and plants of a similar habit, do best when shifted after they have
+done blooming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Continue to shift them, as also <i>Begonias</i>,
+<i>Clerodendrons</i>, <i>Gesneras</i>, &amp;c., as requisite. Remove those in
+bloom to the greenhouse or conservatory.</p><!-- page 061 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest
+of the plants to an injurious extent.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Succulents.</span>&mdash;Shift <i>Melocacti</i>, &amp;c., and keep them growing, and
+near the glass.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has
+been lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an
+occasional supply of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing
+overhead with the syringe, or engine, dashing it on with
+considerable force. They will also require to have their wood
+matured early.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four
+or five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the
+second crop where too thick.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals.
+When the fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly
+moist state, and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat
+should not be allowed to sink below 75°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and
+moisture, and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and
+healthy. The ripening fruit will require plenty of air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to
+remain in a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to
+start prematurely into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that
+the balls are thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give
+strength to the growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of
+air in the morning part of the day; and in the afternoon, to
+encourage a high degree of heat with an abundance of atmospheric
+moisture. The plants growing in open beds to be supplied with a
+steady bottom heat of from 80° to 85°, and sufficient water to the
+roots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell
+rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in
+bloom to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the
+fruit is set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass
+of useless wood to remain on them.</p><!-- page 062 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an
+out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from
+high winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the
+worms cannot get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain
+should be turned round from time to time, that they may not get
+one-sided; and allow them to have plenty of room on all sides. Also,
+the young plants intended for specimens should have their
+flower-buds picked off, to encourage their growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Balsams</span>.&mdash;Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in
+bottom heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds
+to be picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size
+before they are allowed to bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span>.&mdash;The most critical time is after the plants have
+flowered; if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off&mdash;Nature
+having completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the
+plants down, and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold
+frame <i>facing the east</i>, the lights on during the day, with air, and
+entirely off during the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night
+dews are highly beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon
+produce new shoots, which must be taken off and pricked out into
+small pots in a very open soil, and placed in a very gentle bottom
+heat to strike. When rooted, to be shifted into pots of a larger
+size.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias</span>.&mdash;The plants that have bloomed through the season to be
+cut down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the
+old soil removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a
+sheltered situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in
+which the Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of
+the soil, in rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the
+row. When planted, to be well watered.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers</span>.&mdash;The Passifloras, <i>Mandevilla suaveolens</i>, <i>Tecoma
+jasminoides</i>, and other such climbers in the conservatory,<!-- page 063 --> will now
+be growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent
+attention to keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to
+grow in a natural manner, merely preventing them from getting too
+much entangled, or growing into masses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;When in a healthy-growing state they require an
+abundance of water and frequent syringings. Train them in the
+desired form, and pinch back all weak and straggling shoots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;Examine them very carefully, and
+be sure that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young
+plants which are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where
+they can be exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper
+foundation for a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train
+the shoots into form.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Kalosanthes.</span>&mdash;Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and
+give them liquid manure occasionally.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To
+harden the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter
+flowering, it is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such
+as the shelves of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the
+Stanhopeas will now be blooming, should be carefully examined to see
+that the buds, as they protrude, may not be injured by contact with
+the side. Many stove plants and Orchids in flower, if taken to a
+late vinery, or such intermediate house, will thus be prepared, in a
+short time, for removal to the conservatory during the summer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging
+loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either
+hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and
+regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a
+confused mass of wood and foliage.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Give air night and day in fine weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give<!-- page 064 --> the trees a
+good syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to
+keep down insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks,
+during bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the
+scorching of the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens
+prematurely, and is, in consequence, without flavour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible
+during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the
+lights open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give
+a good watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as
+previously advised.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the
+fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow
+at the same time the thermometer to range from 90° to 95°. Shut up
+when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and
+ply the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and
+the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two
+afterwards for the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they
+advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work
+to be done.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in
+showery weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage.
+The more delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected
+by some means during heavy rains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air
+night and day, with an occasional application of the syringe,
+keeping the paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing,
+and have formed their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the<!-- page 065 -->
+plants overhead, as it sometimes starts them into a fresh growth
+that will be the destruction of the flower-buds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in
+an open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one
+stem, and others to be topped, to make them bushy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each
+parent plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour,
+and to place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should
+be carefully gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow
+pots, or pans, well drained with crocks; then some siftings, and
+over that some light soil, with some finer and more sandy on the
+surface, covering the seeds very lightly with the same; and slightly
+sprinkling, or watering, through a very fine rose, and the surface
+covered with a little moss, to prevent evaporation. In a few days
+the seedlings will be up; then remove the moss, and let them remain
+in the pots, or pans, until they are large enough to be handled with
+safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep close for a day or
+two.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Lilium lancifolium.</span>&mdash;Give attention to them; as also to tree
+Carnations, <i>Salvia splendens</i>, Scarlet Geraniums, &amp;c., for autumn
+and early winter flowering.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Oranges.</span>&mdash;The same as advised for <i>Camellias</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Repot, as also <i>Begonias</i> and <i>Gesneras</i>, for
+succession of late bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Luculia gratissima.</span>&mdash;Propagate by cuttings.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with
+fresh soil. The <i>Barkeria spectabilis</i>, <i>Epidendrum Skinneri</i>, the
+Lycastes, <i>Odontoglossum grande</i>, &amp;c., will now enjoy the
+temperature of the conservatory.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long.
+Never allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now
+require daily attention.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Shade them during bright sunshine for a<!-- page 066 --> few hours in the
+middle of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum,
+mixed with water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or
+frame, where the sun&rsquo;s rays may fall upon them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so.
+When the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the
+syringe. Those changing for ripening, if the trees are young and
+vigorous, to have a general stopping of the strong shoots all over
+the higher parts of the tree. To keep down red spider, it is
+advisable to wash the walls, pipes, or flues, with sulphur vivum
+reduced to the consistency of paint; or to paint some slates, tiles,
+or common saucers, with the mixture, and to place them in different
+parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well
+furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in
+a warm state, may be given with advantage to them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a
+healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have
+emitted the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out
+on a rich piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or
+early Potatoes have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather
+is hot, they are more convenient to shade, and require less water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood
+by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be
+gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and
+somewhat in the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop,
+not all at once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may
+be allowed to produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient
+room to lay them in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood,
+or shading the old leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned,
+their shoulders to be tied out, and every useless shoot to be
+removed. Keep the Vines in pots trained, and exposed to light, and
+apply weak liquid manure frequently.</p><!-- page 067 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants&mdash;such as Boronias,
+Epacrises, &amp;c.&mdash;will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting
+in rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse
+plants will most probably require shifting, and should receive that
+attention now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a
+sharp look out for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and
+give the plants, if the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice
+a-week from the syringe or garden engine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;If any are retained in the house, let them be
+placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and
+at the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots;
+but if such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in
+another two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open
+ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they
+are cut down.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Scarlet Geraniums.</span>&mdash;To prepare them for winter blooming it is
+advisable to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out
+of doors and in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as
+they appear. To be carefully attended with water.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the
+floors, paths, &amp;c., damp. Many of the stove plants&mdash;viz.,
+Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums,
+Pergularias, Stephanotises, &amp;c.&mdash;may be removed to the conservatory,
+where the flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a
+longer period than if they had remained in the stove.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Euphorbias.</span>&mdash;Propagate <i>jacquiniæflora</i> and <i>fulgens</i>, and grow
+them on a successional system of culture for furnishing the
+conservatory and stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesnera zebrina.</span>&mdash;Keep up a succession in various<!-- page 068 --> stages of
+growth, and place another batch of tubers in a pan.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in
+houses where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere
+cool and moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the
+engine, to keep down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit
+has been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely
+open. Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine.
+When the plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard
+bottom on the north side of a wall or fence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without
+it a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most
+injurious effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the
+plants overhead occasionally.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while
+the fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning,
+to prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early
+in the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and
+give attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due
+time. By such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be
+secured for the fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants
+swelling their fruit to be also favoured with a high temperature, a
+moist atmosphere, and plenty of water, and occasionally manure water
+at the root. If worm-casts appear in any of the pots, water with
+lime-water in a clear state.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the
+ripe bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur
+must be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the
+use of the syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen.
+Check the growth of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final
+thinnings to the latest Grapes; and as they are frequently required
+for winter use, a good thinning should be given, as crowded bunches
+and berries will not keep late in the season.</p><!-- page 069 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">JULY.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the
+conservatory should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure.
+Give all the air possible at this season, both night and day, and
+keep the house as neat and clean as possible. If it contains many
+tender stove plants, shut it up for an hour while the sun is on it
+in the evening, so as to produce a more genial atmosphere for them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;Encourage them, as also <i>Clerodendrons</i>, &amp;c., to grow
+and to prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them
+with liquid manure, taking particular care not to give it too
+strong, especially at first.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should
+also be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers
+for the purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they
+have made fresh growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Propagate some for blooming in small pots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become
+unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds&mdash;such
+as the <i>ventricosa</i>, &amp;c.&mdash;do best in a sheltered situation in the
+open air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the
+woolly-leaved&mdash;such as <i>Masonii</i>, &amp;c.&mdash;and hardwooded varieties
+delight in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for
+protection as necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted
+in the spring, and, if necessary, pot them without delay; but if
+they require to be cut in, to make them bushy, it will be best to
+let them break afresh before they are repotted.</p><!-- page 070 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Leschenaultias.</span>&mdash;If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to
+be repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times,
+and abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that
+were potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require
+more pot room.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Ixoras.</span>&mdash;Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air
+both night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue
+stopping them for the season.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in
+tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy
+quarter, to make their wood for next season&rsquo;s bearing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up
+their second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be
+useful. Pinch out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long.
+It should be a practice to manage the trees during the summer that
+nothing more than a slight thinning out should be wanted at the
+winter pruning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out
+the shoots, stopping, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches</span> and <span class="sc">Nectarines</span>.&mdash;When all the fruit is gathered, and the
+wood seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite
+off, and place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to
+be given to the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop
+in succession many of the strong shoots about the period the last
+swelling commences. Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in
+the morning and again in the evening.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession
+plants, and during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every
+open space with moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants
+becoming brown. If such a practice be regularly adopted during hot,
+bright sunny weather, shading will seldom or never be necessary.<!-- page 071 --> Be
+at the same time particular in maintaining a mild, genial bottom
+heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept
+dry and well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention
+to keep a regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air.
+<i>Muscats</i> very frequently require fires during the night and on wet,
+cold days.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes.</span>&mdash;They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in
+the middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the
+foliage; and never to be watered overhead.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cacti.</span>&mdash;Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have
+finished their growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cockscombs.</span>&mdash;They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very
+large heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the
+flowers are formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of
+one-half rich loam, one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and
+supplied with as much liquid manure and moist heat as possible.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air
+and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages
+with clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and
+evening overhead.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Globe Amaranthus.</span>&mdash;To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they
+will flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or
+rotten dung. They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be
+subjected to a moist heat of not less than 75°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When
+watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball
+is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is
+again completely dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Japan Lilies.</span>&mdash;As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and
+liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems<!-- page 072 --> to be properly
+sticked, so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in
+presenting a large mass of flowers to the eye at once.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as
+advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down.
+After the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the
+most forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out,
+and repot into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and
+placing them in a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again;
+after which freely expose them to the weather until heavy rains in
+autumn, or the approach of frost, renders it necessary to house them
+for the winter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to
+remove filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in
+standing in corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange
+frequently, as it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the
+plants and a pleasing variety in the house.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is
+advisable to keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat.
+Strike cuttings of choice sorts for winter bearing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;The same as advised for <i>Cucumbers</i>, as they both delight
+in plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give
+them good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up
+early on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames,
+and the plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never
+allow any to fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears,
+apply lime to the parts affected. Old plants cut back should be
+stimulated to grow freely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those
+from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal
+waterings at the roots and by syringings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Keep up the temperature from 90° to 95° by day and from 70°
+to 75° by night, with plenty of moisture<!-- page 073 --> among the growing plants
+and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the
+pots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines</span>.&mdash;Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and
+day as soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully
+ripened, in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at
+a good heat. Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up
+the bunches, and maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty
+of air, but do not syringe the bunches.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought
+into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at
+every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house
+dry. The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers.
+Some judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants,
+that they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by
+drought in hot sunny days.</p>
+
+<p>The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them
+sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other
+considerations will permit.</p>
+
+<p>Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy
+compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather
+lumpy character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority.
+Particular attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially
+to the crock at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it
+matters but little how much depth of drainage material rests upon
+it, the soil will soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the
+final shift should be given in good time to those intended to flower
+in the autumn.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;Sow seeds; the compost to be equal
+parts of peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small
+portion of sand. Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at
+the bottom of the pot;<!-- page 074 --> then fill up within half an inch of the rim
+with the compost, passed through a fine seive. After the pot has
+been gently struck on the potting-bench to settle the soil, the
+surface must then be made level with a flat piece of wood, or the
+bottom of a small garden pan or saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly
+over the surface, do not cover with soil, and water with a fine
+rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and be kept shaded from the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chorozema.</span>&mdash;The beauty of this genus for early spring display is
+generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from
+me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat
+containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times,
+and also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large
+pot and frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Continue to top the plants that have been planted
+out in the open ground.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Epacris.</span>&mdash;The varieties of this genus are most useful for the
+adornment of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in
+fibrous peat, broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young
+plants to be frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the
+shoots while growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those
+again to be stopped until the plants have attained a size sufficient
+to warrant their blooming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gardenias.</span>&mdash;If any have been removed to the conservatory while in
+bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over,
+to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature
+their growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Eutaxia myrtifolia.</span>&mdash;It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the
+summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it
+has attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can
+be easily formed into a neat, compact specimen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Winter Flowers.</span>&mdash;The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes,
+Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent
+attention as to watering, shifting, &amp;c.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove
+plants intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at
+all times; with air during the<!-- page 075 --> day. When a few days of gloom occur,
+the humidity that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be
+dissipated by a free circulation of air when bright weather returns.
+Keep a free circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour
+to supply an abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter
+part of the day; and dispense with shading as much as possible by
+using it only during a few hours of the hottest part of the day.</p>
+
+<p>Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them
+neatly tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give
+them a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe
+them frequently overhead.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Stanhopeas.</span>&mdash;About the end of this or the beginning of next month
+is the most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish
+to grow fine specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots,
+so that they may not require to be shifted for several years, as
+then the plants grow much finer and flower better than when annually
+shifted. Now, as soon as they have done flowering they commence
+growing, when they should have plenty of heat and moisture until
+they have completed their pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced
+to a comparative state of rest by gradually withholding water until
+they show flower; then to be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but
+should have no water at the root, or at least but a small portion,
+until they begin to grow. As all the plants belonging to this genus
+push their flowers downwards, it is advisable to have them elevated,
+or put in baskets, where the flowers can get through and show
+themselves to advantage.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are
+swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the
+foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &amp;c., to keep the atmosphere moist.
+Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop
+ripens, curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture&mdash;otherwise before
+they reach maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be
+regularly supplied with water, and some<!-- page 076 --> liquid manure added about
+once a week to assist the second crop. Keep down red spider by the
+application of sulphur in the manner so frequently advised of late.
+Give the fruit that is ripening the benefit of the sun, by fastening
+on one side the leaves that shade it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;The fruit will be all the more delicious for a
+comparatively cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit
+daily, and gather before it is overripe and loses its flavour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of
+the advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of
+air and sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely
+to the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but
+a circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at
+the same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions
+to afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by
+frequent syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other
+available surface until the fruit begins to change colour, when the
+atmosphere and soil should be kept rather dry, to improve the
+fruit&rsquo;s flavour. See to the stools from which fruit have been cut.
+Earth them up, so as to cause suckers to strike root. Give them a
+brisk bottom heat, and proper supplies of water. You will thus gain
+time and assistance for the suckers from the declining strength of
+the parent plant as long as possible. It is now a good time to start
+a lot into fruit, as they will have two or three most favourable
+months for swelling, and will come in at a season when they are in
+very general request. Keep the bark-bed moderately moist, as in that
+state it will retain its heat much longer than if it is allowed to
+get dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as
+it is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too
+far advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep
+longer than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do
+not allow plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp,
+which, despite every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the
+berries and spoil them. The outside borders of<!-- page 077 --> the late houses
+should be watered and mulched, if the weather continue dry.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs,
+Fuchsias, Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan
+Lilies. Strict attention must be paid to all plants in these
+structures that they do not suffer from the want of water. Continue
+to stop over-luxuriant growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens.
+On the evenings of hot, dry days, after the plants have been
+watered, give them a slight syringing, or sprinkling, over the
+leaves, and also the ground upon which they are standing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Aotus gracillimus.</span>&mdash;When done blooming, to be cut down close to the
+pot.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Aphelexis</span> and <span class="sc">Helichrysums</span>.&mdash;When past their best state, cut the
+flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady
+place until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be
+repotted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf
+stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out
+in rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow
+seed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Leschenaultias.</span>&mdash;When they are going out of bloom, or past their
+best, remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool
+place to start again.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Kalosanthes.</span>&mdash;When done blooming, the flower-stems and all
+straggling growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens
+for another season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as
+advised lately.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pimelea spectabilis.</span>&mdash;When that and the other kinds<!-- page 078 --> have done
+blooming, to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place
+to break.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Polygalas</span> to be treated in the same manner as the <i>Pimeleas</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as
+visible. The <i>Gishurst Compound</i> is worthy of a trial. Follow former
+instructions as to moisture and air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Ixoras.</span>&mdash;When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be
+started in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended
+on baskets, or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the
+roots, and frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little
+fire-heat applied in the afternoon will be of service to them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing
+towards maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the
+atmosphere should be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely
+every fine day. Keep the foliage clean and healthy, and clear from
+insects, and do not allow the young shoots to get crowded.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep
+the plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root,
+with an abundance of air in fine weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting
+and succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the
+application of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by
+saturation. The walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept
+constantly moist, and frequent syringings to be given to the young
+stock. Continue all other routine operations according to former
+directions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong,
+rich loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have
+made roots enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in
+small pots, to be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer
+to lay them in their fruiting-pots. The principal object should be,
+to attain plants of a moderate growth, well matured and rested
+before forcing time.</p><!-- page 079 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The early houses, when they have been cleared of their
+fruit, and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed
+and repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free
+exposure to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be
+encouraged to swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure
+water, and by being carefully thinned, more especially if they are
+wanted to keep late. A little fire-heat will be necessary in
+unfavourable weather, with an abundance of air day and night.</p><!-- page 080 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">AUGUST.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water.
+Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and
+exhausted stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the
+autumn is fast approaching, the sooner the new growths are
+encouraged the better, that they may have sufficient time to mature
+them. All greenhouse plants will now be benefited by exposure to the
+natural atmosphere: the dews are more refreshing and invigorating
+than artificial moisture or the application of the syringe.</p>
+
+<p>Finish <i>potting</i> all specimen plants; for if left until later in the
+season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with
+roots, and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of
+water at the roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that
+of surrounding it with fresh soil for months when the roots should
+be in a comparatively dormant state.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Continue to head them down, and to propagate the
+cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the
+open ground.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during
+warm weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias,
+and other such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them
+betimes. The <i>Æschynanthus grandiflorus</i>, <i>Aphelandra cristata</i>,
+<i>Eranthemum pulchellum</i>, Justicias, and any others that are intended
+for the decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part
+of winter, should be carefully looked over, and shifted without
+delay if they want more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly,
+and to<!-- page 081 --> be exposed to as much sun as they will bear without
+scorching the foliage, to induce stocky growth. Nothing is more
+injurious to stove plants than to keep them growing late in the
+season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the wood, which will
+render them more liable to injuries in winter and more unproductive
+of flowers the following season.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept
+rather dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable
+weather. A steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced
+houses, it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible,
+that the air, rain, and dews may have free access to act both
+beneficially on the trees and to keep down red spider. In those
+houses which have been treated as advised in former Calendars, the
+principal object now should be to get the wood properly ripened. The
+late houses to be treated in a similar manner when the fruit is
+gathered. Where the trees in peach-houses have been recently
+planted, and are not yet in a bearing state, the shoots will require
+to be trained carefully, and insects to be kept down.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended
+to with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate
+the whole body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is
+moist while the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest
+successions for early forcing next season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to
+force in pots until you have a sufficient number.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a
+little fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are
+better flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is
+delayed to a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray
+laterals that begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little
+at a time, as disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to
+fruit trees. The young Vines in pots to<!-- page 082 --> have every attention, to
+secure as much growth and healthy vigour as possible while the
+growing season lasts. Allow all young planted Vines to ramble freely
+without stopping them so closely, as is frequently practised. Before
+wasps and flies do much mischief to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass
+should be fixed over the top lights and front lights that are opened
+for the admission of air. Remove decayed berries as soon as
+observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit dry and free from
+dust.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs.</span>&mdash;The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made
+as soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each
+season; to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be
+potted in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in
+a dry situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan
+or coal ashes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;The large, old specimens that have set their
+flower-buds to be carefully supplied with water; for if they are
+allowed to get too dry at the roots they are apt to drop their buds.
+Young vigorous plants, on the contrary, will require to be watered
+rather sparingly, to prevent them making a second growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to
+watering, &amp;c., cause a check to their growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;To have a succession late in the season when flowers
+become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose,
+more especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;If any have been standing out of doors for
+some time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender
+varieties to the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the
+danger and risk of exposure to wet or windy weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Soils.</span>&mdash;Now is a favourable time to collect soils of<!-- page 083 --> different
+sorts for future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters
+will become evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould,
+decomposed sheep, deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old
+Cucumber, Melon, and other such soils, to be put in separate heaps
+in a shed, or any other dry place, protected from drenching rains.
+Each sort to be numbered, or named, that no mistake may occur when
+wanted.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied
+with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other
+stove plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the
+water to be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up
+early in the afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be
+made in the daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air
+may be given to the plants.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed
+early, for the benefit of the second crop of fruit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden
+supply at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and
+become worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may
+receive the benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the
+sun&rsquo;s rays till it is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water
+to the late crops, and thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to
+paint the interior of the frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with
+slight syringings and shutting up early while the sun shines upon
+it, will keep down insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;Collect some very short stable-litter and
+horse-droppings, and turn them over frequently with the addition of
+a small portion of turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When
+moderately dry, to be packed on shelves or in boxes, and be
+well-beaten down in layers four or five inches thick, till the bed
+is the required thickness&mdash;from a foot to eighteen inches; for
+success will depend in a great measure upon the solidity of the bed.
+To be spawned when there is a brisk heat.</p><!-- page 084 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been
+added, the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any
+approach to a burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots,
+&amp;c. Fruit recently started and swelling off to have every
+encouragement for the next two months. Shut up early, to secure a
+strong amount of solar heat. Keep all the growing stock warm and
+moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe,
+would be benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights
+are required to remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all
+laterals kept down. When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and
+when the weather is wet or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied,
+will expel damps, and be in other respects very beneficial to them.
+Stop all useless growths in the late houses; do not remove the
+leaves to expose the fruit to the sun, unless they are very thick
+indeed, as they are the principal agents by which nutriment is
+carried to the berries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines in Pots.</span>&mdash;When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the
+north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to
+keep the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will
+protect them from sudden changes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or in
+pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms,
+preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and
+washing all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all
+crevices and corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting
+there. When by scrubbing, brushing, &amp;c., you have brought everything
+to the ground, let no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish,
+&amp;c., off the ground, and also out of the house. If painting and
+glazing are necessary, the sooner they are done the better, leaving
+the house entirely open for<!-- page 085 --> three weeks or a month, that the
+effluvium from white lead, which is prejudicial to plants, may pass
+off before the lights are put on again.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants
+that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as
+soon as they have filled their pots with roots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cuttings</span> inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the
+bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there
+is a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will
+allow of the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot.</p>
+
+<p>Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be
+necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally&mdash;and
+especially that of all those whose period of excitement is continued
+over a certain portion of the autumn&mdash;so arranged and circumstanced
+as to secure its perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have
+it &ldquo;well ripened.&rdquo; For that purpose it is necessary to avoid the
+application of moisture beyond what is necessary to prevent a
+decided check in the growth of the plants, to expose them to the
+influence of light, by not suffering them to crowd or overhang each
+other, and to prevent from what cause soever the too sudden
+declension of the average temperature to which they are exposed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">The Orchidaceous Plants</span> that are growing to have plenty of moisture
+and heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and
+then it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the
+supply of water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house.</p>
+
+<p>Any <span class="sc">Orchids</span> that you are desirous of increasing may be separated
+or potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in
+baskets. Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts,
+and peg them altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the
+summit place your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another
+plant, and with four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go
+where they please in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for
+sustenance upon the atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil.</p><!-- page 086 -->
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off
+the early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing
+towards a state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely
+indispensable, but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the
+lights are off or on, attention may now be given to the repairs of
+glass or woodwork where necessary, and to finish with a coat of
+paint and whitewashing, if possible.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over
+in hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water.
+Continue to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the
+parent plants, as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if
+left out of the ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung
+pits, as all Pine plants, in whatever situation, will require a
+lively bottom heat of 90°.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and
+rather early (about four o&rsquo;clock), in order to dispense, if
+possible, with fires, giving air by seven o&rsquo;clock in the morning,
+and increasing it abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished
+at intervals, in accordance with the state of the weather.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that
+they do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to
+be given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may
+be dry towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a
+cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that
+have been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or
+frame, where they can be protected from heavy rains.</p><!-- page 087 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;When the shoots of the plants that have been cut
+down are about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the
+roots slightly trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &amp;c., as
+advised early in July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for
+potting off; when potted, to be placed in a pit or frame, kept
+close, and shaded until they have made fresh roots, when they should
+be placed out in an open situation to grow firm and stocky, pinching
+out the leading shoots; and to be placed on coal ashes, slates, or
+boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow the seed immediately
+it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of any other perennial
+plant, if ripe before the middle of September.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual
+increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is
+still essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed
+with, except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given
+to the Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises,
+Dipladenias, and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil
+of large specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gesnera zebrina.</span>&mdash;Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in
+a mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and
+leaf mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a
+gentle bottom heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during
+bright sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>Shift on all <span class="sc">Orchids</span> that now require it, and are making their
+growth. Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing
+freely in pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear,
+tepid, soft water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up
+early.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or
+other such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good
+soaking of water, and but very little, if any, after&mdash;as a dry
+atmosphere is necessary to ripen the fruit.</p><!-- page 088 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are
+growing in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or
+renewed, to produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker
+is apt to set in and destroy the plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as
+recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be
+made very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is
+advisable when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong,
+fresh loam at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it
+as firm as possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much
+better quality than if partly-exhausted soil is used.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them
+occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The
+growth of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills,
+&amp;c., to be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines
+alone, an abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance
+of air to the young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of
+the atmosphere, to induce maturity of growth and a hardy
+constitution against winter. Shift, if not already done, succession
+plants into larger pots. Any plants recently potted to be shaded
+during bright sunshine, sprinkled overhead every afternoon, and the
+house closed early. The sprinkling will be sufficient without
+watering at the root until the plants begin to grow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vineries.</span>&mdash;Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when
+the ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a
+little fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit
+in late vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but
+more especially when the external temperature ranges below 50°.</p><!-- page 089 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">SEPTEMBER.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Balsams.</span>&mdash;Give them a good watering when they show indications of
+drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation
+appears, as saturation will be death to them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs.</span>&mdash;Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When
+potted, to be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the
+early part of the month, and covered with some porous material&mdash;such
+as coal ashes, old spent tanner&rsquo;s bark, coarse sand, or any other
+material that will serve to keep the roots not only cool and
+un-acted on by atmospheric changes, but which, from being moderately
+damp, will not abstract moisture from the roots, but keep them
+uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs, if obtained now, may
+be had in flower at various periods throughout the winter and early
+spring. <i>Amaryllis Johnsoni</i>, <i>vittata</i>, and many other varieties,
+are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and orange-flowered
+species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the varieties of
+<i>Sparaxis tricolor</i>, are desirable plants that may be easily bloomed
+by gentle forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;Pot off seedlings into small pots, and
+keep them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the
+best kinds; they will strike readily in a common frame.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;They should now be stopped for the last time, to
+produce a late succession of bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or
+stakes may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from
+the rim of the pot upwards.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young
+wood, trimming the plants to handsome<!-- page 090 --> shapes. If placed or plunged
+in a little bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming
+till Christmas.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Lilium lancifolium.</span>&mdash;Supply them cautiously with water, as advised
+for Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong
+their beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the
+foot of a south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be
+given sparingly until their tops show signs of decay, when they may
+be laid on their sides till potting time. The same treatment is
+recommended for <i>Gladioli</i> and plants of like habit.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are
+finishing or have completed their season&rsquo;s growth in the coolest
+part of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air,
+and rather cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free
+growth should be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but
+very little air and a liberal supply of water during very fine
+sunshiny weather.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object
+should be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is
+necessary to be given by exposing them to light and air, and
+preserving the leaves from injury, as it is upon their healthy
+action that the future crop depends.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early
+forcing, to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy,
+situation, to continue the regular root action, upon which much of
+their future success will depend.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of
+fruit is ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early
+forcing, to be treated as advised for Cherries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have
+performed their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with
+sulphur. Trees in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Take advantage of fine weather to encourage<!-- page 091 --> free growth
+where it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied
+occasionally with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be
+supplied with water at the roots, as inattention to that particular
+during hot weather is very likely to cause some of the plants to
+fruit prematurely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;The stock intended for forcing to be carefully
+attended to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when
+necessary, to be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air,
+and a little weak liquid manure, will assist to produce stout
+healthy plants for forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house
+as cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and
+expose the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as
+possible. Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes
+occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest
+out-door greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to
+be carefully examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the
+soil or drainage of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other
+indications of the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the
+soil, by carefully turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can
+generally be picked out. If they are not visible on the outside of
+the ball, a small peg stuck in will direct particular attention to
+it until the intruder is removed. When staging the plants, a
+pleasing variety may be introduced by placing a few on inverted
+pots. Sufficient space to be given to each plant to allow the air to
+circulate freely around. If there is not sufficient room for all,
+the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be rejected, or wintered in a
+pit or vinery. When<!-- page 092 --> housed, all the air possible should be given in
+fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the lights, and only
+reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in the weather
+take place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heliotropes.</span>&mdash;Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy
+state for winter flowering.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mignonette.</span>&mdash;Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring
+blooming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pinks.</span>&mdash;Pot <i>Anne Boleyne</i> and other sorts, to be well established
+before they are wanted for forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Roses.</span>&mdash;Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under
+glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate
+growth and early blooming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Violets.</span>&mdash;Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or
+leaf mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a
+pit or frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early
+spring.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is
+advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy
+shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70° to 80°,
+with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas, <i>Epidendrum
+Skinneri</i>, Lælias, <i>Lycaste Skinneri</i>, and <i>Odontoglossum grande</i>,
+to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed occasionally.
+Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except such as
+are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as
+possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening
+influence of the sun.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the
+atmosphere. Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight
+fires will be useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening
+the fruit; and but little syringing and watering will be required
+from this time forward.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air,
+shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In
+whatever structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up
+the bottom heat by a gentle fire, or by linings.</p><!-- page 093 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the
+air night and day, and will, therefore, require but little
+attention, except an occasional washing with the engine, to remove
+insects and to allow the foliage to perform its functions to a
+natural decay. If a blank in the house is to be filled up, it may be
+done as soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall; and the
+crop to be expected from the same tree next season will depend upon
+the care with which it is removed, as there will be sufficient time
+for the wood to be ripened and the tree to make fresh roots, and to
+get sufficiently established before winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken
+by giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the
+plants weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient
+command of heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given
+at night and on cloudy days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as
+it is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made
+after this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is
+useful to keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The
+bunches to be frequently and carefully looked over and all tainted
+berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat
+is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the
+fruit is cut it is sometimes necessary to keep the atmosphere dry
+and rather warm, to ripen the wood.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as
+possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when
+many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause
+them to produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to
+damp off at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the<!-- page 094 -->
+external air will cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally
+supplied when they are first taken into the house, as the dry boards
+on which they may stand, or the elevated situation and free
+circulation of air will occasion a more frequent want of that
+element than when they stood on the moist earth. However, by no
+means go to the extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas.</span>&mdash;Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the
+greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth
+is matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at
+Christmas, or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the
+bloom-buds have swelled to a good size, when they will require but
+very little forcing to start them into bloom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs.</span>&mdash;Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the
+success of early forcing depends upon early potting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Treat them as advised for Azaleas.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been
+growing freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a
+rather succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked
+by this pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an
+application of sulphur.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence
+with the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be
+better prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the
+winter season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
+shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in
+a compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in
+a soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that
+they are liable to rot off at the base of the stem.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a
+little liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the
+borders, to induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of
+the wood and an early rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;The flues of the early house may now be<!-- page 095 --> cleaned, and, if
+not yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still
+remaining in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one
+end of the pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house
+should then be prepared for the best of the succession plants for
+the second crop next summer. Plants showing fruit after this time,
+although they cannot be expected to produce as fine fruit as if
+earlier in the season, will, nevertheless, be found very useful, and
+should have every attention given to them while the season continues
+favourable. To be placed in the warmest corner of the house, and to
+be supplied when dry with a little liquid manure. Continue to grow
+on the young stock while the weather continues favourable; for fine
+sunny days and moist growing nights are all that we can desire. A
+good portion of solar heat to be secured by shutting up early. On
+cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep up the
+temperature to 70° towards morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well
+ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much
+fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if,
+from appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at
+rest, the pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the
+Grapes not yet ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air
+to be given to the house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the
+vapour that ascends, if not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will
+cause the Grapes to become mouldy and worthless.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to
+be taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be
+placed in a gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they
+have made fresh roots, the<!-- page 096 --> better to resist the vicissitudes of the
+dull, dreary months of the approaching winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">American Plants.</span>&mdash;If a rich display of bloom is desired in early
+spring, the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be
+plunged in the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the
+forcing-house from November until February, as they may be required.
+The most suitable for such a purpose are the Azaleas of the
+<i>nudiflora</i> class with various hybrids, <i>Andromeda pulverulenta</i>,
+<i>Daphne cneorum</i>, Kalmias, of sorts, <i>Ledum latifolium</i> and <i>L.
+thymifolium</i>, <i>Polygala Cham&oelig;buxus</i>, Rhododendrons, and <i>Rhodora
+Canadense</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;Remove them to a shelf as near the
+glass as possible, with plenty of air at all favourable
+opportunities. To be duly supplied with water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of
+the buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds,
+leaving not more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the
+largest and smallest to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves,
+if necessary, to be washed clean.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chinese Primroses.</span>&mdash;Place them as advised for Calceolarias.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the
+application of the Gishurst infallible compound.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds
+may be sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of
+sheltering them from frost and damp; but if you have no such
+convenience, it is advisable to postpone the sowing until spring.
+The seed is separated most easily from the pulp by bruising the
+berries amongst dry sand, and allowing it to stand in the sun, or in
+a warm place, until the moisture has evaporated, when the seed and
+sand will be intermixed, and in a fit state to be sown.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas,
+and give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the
+weather continues favourable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;Place them in situations to enjoy a
+considerable share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be
+stopped, to maintain symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant
+eye should be kept upon<!-- page 097 --> them almost daily, to see that neither
+mildew, green fly, nor other such enemies be allowed to injure them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orange Trees.</span>&mdash;If they have been standing out during the summer,
+the sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better.
+Clean the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which
+they are growing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Succulents.</span>&mdash;Cacti, Euphorbiæ, and other such plants to be
+gradually curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the
+winter and their season of rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Tropæolums.</span>&mdash;If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly <i>T.
+tricolorum</i> or <i>T. Brachyseras</i> that have flowered early in the
+season, begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to
+grow slowly through the winter; but if there is no appearance of
+growth&mdash;which is best for their future success&mdash;the roots should be
+kept dormant, in a cool place, with the soil about them quite dry,
+and protected from mice.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn.
+Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry.
+Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not
+so much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the
+house. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain
+a healthy atmosphere. Several of the Orchids&mdash;viz., Aërides,
+Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &amp;c., may be encouraged by the
+application of a high temperature, with much moisture and less
+shading, to make further and sometimes considerable growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cattleyas.</span>&mdash;Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some
+time longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a
+comparatively dormant state by a gradual diminution in the supply of
+water, and a decrease in temperature, with less shading.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Stanhopeas.</span>&mdash;To be treated as advised for Cattleyas.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh
+material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable
+never to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to
+get too far exhausted,<!-- page 098 --> but in that medium state when the strong
+fermentation has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain
+in it for some time. The temperature to be kept from 60° to 65°,
+with the admission of air for several hours daily.</p>
+
+<p id="err3"><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived
+at, or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but
+little attention will be necessary, still that little will be
+required to keep them clear of insects and of the leaves as they
+become sufficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch.
+The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be removed,
+and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, put in its place.
+Remove them without further delay, if not already done, as advised
+in the early part of the month, to the north side of a wall or hedge
+until wanted; or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they
+should be protected from its icy grasp.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening
+the late fruit, they will in some places still require the
+assistance of a good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air
+in the middle of the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended
+for Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be
+planted in the place of any that may be worn out. The choice should
+be made of young trees that are in a bearing state, and all the
+better if they had been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees,
+after the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too
+crowded; but if the summer pruning, as frequently advised, have been
+properly done, but very little, if any, will be required now. To
+remove the leaves from the trees in the early houses it is advisable
+to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them gently with a few
+pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be
+removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from insects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Persevere in former directions as to general routine
+management. Whilst fine weather continues air may be given
+liberally; and shut up earlier in the afternoon<!-- page 099 --> to secure as much
+sun heat as possible. Plants swelling their fruit to be assisted
+with a brisk temperature, both at top and bottom, from 65° to 70° at
+night, allowing it to rise to 80° on sunny days with a steady bottom
+heat of about 80°. When watering is necessary let it be given in
+sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil. The suckers
+and crowns that were potted in the summer months should now be
+shifted, if they have grown freely; they should then be plunged in a
+brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from which the
+plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any remaining
+suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged in a
+brisk heat in the nursing pit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it
+is intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned,
+that sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the
+buds to become more plump and prominent. The border of the early
+house to be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such
+material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in
+some situations to cover the borders of the houses in which it is
+intended to keep Grapes late, to prevent the soil getting saturated
+about the roots. Continue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the
+mouldy or tainted berries; applying gentle fires only when necessary
+to expel damps, with a free circulation of air&mdash;as a warm, close
+atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the long-rod system is
+adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as the fruit is
+gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any shoots
+to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared;
+the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue
+to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and
+cut out every decayed berry.</p><!-- page 100 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">OCTOBER.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a
+portion of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants
+kept supplied with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately
+moist throughout. Air to be given every day, and also a portion at
+night, if the weather continue mild.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs</span> (Dutch).&mdash;All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in a
+convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the
+forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time
+ago, a few of them may now be excited into growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a
+showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and
+shaded for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the
+greenhouse, and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a
+fine display.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Gladioli.</span>&mdash;Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &amp;c.; and to be watered
+sparingly until they begin to grow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Lily of the Valley.</span>&mdash;Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs,
+that a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during
+winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Shrubs.</span>&mdash;Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants
+to be potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan
+until wanted for forcing.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature
+to decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aërides,
+Dendrobiums, &amp;c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80° by day
+and 70° by night, the<!-- page 101 --> Cattleyas will require 10° or 15° less to
+bring them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant
+excitement they will continue to sprout buds from their
+pseudo-bulbs, which generally adds to the size of the plant at the
+expense of the blooms.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Achimenes picta.</span>&mdash;Promote their growth by every attention, also
+<i>Gesnera zebrina</i>, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during
+winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
+giving them larger pots if required.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Euphorbia fulgens</span> and <span class="sc">splendens</span>.&mdash;These are also worthy of especial
+attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest
+season of the year when flowers are scarce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is
+necessary to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty
+of top and bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and
+whose leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early
+rest. A seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to
+trees in pots, that they may be in a fit state for forcing early.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Melons.</span>&mdash;Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give
+flavour to the fruit. They will require little or no water after
+this.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the
+open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from
+the nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space
+allotted to them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after
+being repaired and painted, they should be put upon the houses to
+protect the trees and borders from unfavourable weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to
+give it flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist
+atmosphere. Water to be given to the plants cautiously; every one to
+be examined before it receives any, and manure water to be dispensed
+with altogether. The heat of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing
+the linings. The crowns and suckers that are<!-- page 102 --> planted in the tan to
+have no water; all they require is attention in giving air and
+keeping up the heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are
+intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would
+injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such
+material had been used over the lights that open in houses
+containing fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken
+down as little mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks.
+Mice are sometimes very troublesome in vineries at this season, and
+will spoil a whole house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented.
+Traps should, therefore, be kept set, and every means used to
+prevent their ingress from the garden. Cover the border when the
+trees are planted outside, with a good coat of fern or any other
+such material before they become saturated and chilled by the
+autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in layers, beginning at the
+front of the border, the whole to be covered with a thin layer of
+good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does the straw on
+stacks.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will
+require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and
+regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced,
+sometimes droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises
+from the roots being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the
+moisture, and the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth.
+This is usually brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as
+soon, therefore, as the consequences are observed, the plants should
+be examined, and sufficient water given to wet the ball of earth
+thoroughly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;Treat them without further delay as advised in a
+late Calendar. An occasional and moderate<!-- page 103 --> supply of clear liquid
+manure will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection.
+If any indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of
+sulphur, when the foliage is damp, will banish it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Fuchsias.</span>&mdash;Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by
+the application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering
+is over, and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be
+set aside in any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept
+moderately dry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Myrtles.</span>&mdash;These and other such evergreen plants requiring
+protection to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other
+structure, as near the glass as possible. To be watered regularly;
+but, like all other plants, care must be taken that they do not get
+too much at any time during the winter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and
+repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in
+a gentle bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom&mdash;such as the
+Cypripediums, <i>Phajus grandifolius</i> and <i>Stenorhynchus speciosus</i>&mdash;to
+be supplied with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other
+sorts&mdash;such as the Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &amp;c.,
+that are approaching their dormant state&mdash;to be accommodated, if
+possible, with a drier and cooler atmosphere. All fast-growing
+plants&mdash;such as Clerodendrums, Vincas, &amp;c.&mdash;that require large pots
+in summer, to be now turned out of their pots, the soil to be shaken
+from them, and repotted into the smallest sized pots that will
+contain them, without pruning the roots much at this time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning,
+more especially where they obstruct the light in any material
+degree. The Combretums, Echites, Ipomsæas, Mandevillas,
+late-blooming Passifloras, Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias,
+&amp;c., which are still growing, to be regulated with a more gentle
+hand, cutting out but little more than barren shoots, and drawing
+the remainder into somewhat closer festoons, to allow the more free
+admission of sunlight into the interior of the house.</p><!-- page 104 -->
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be
+making progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up
+a good heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable
+opportunities, to get them strong and vigorous against the winter
+months. Stop mildew by dusting the leaves with sulphur.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;Succession-beds to be made according to previous
+directions. Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a
+genial humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to
+keep them sweet and free from mouldiness.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is
+advisable to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent
+the admission of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis,
+whitewash the flues and walls, and make every part of the house
+clean. Dress the trees with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur in
+hot water; to be well rubbed in with a brush or sponge.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any
+decaying berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time,
+and if any plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept
+under the Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a
+little fire heat in the day, with air, to expel damp before night.
+Whatever system of pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur,
+it is advisable, when the brown scale is visible, to take off the
+loose bark, to wash them, and the wires and rafters, with soft soap
+dissolved in hot water, using a hard brush, being careful not to
+injure the buds; afterwards to apply hot lime, made to the
+consistency of thick paint.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The decline of temperature and less watering must go on
+progressively, more especially in dull weather, with<!-- page 105 --> free
+ventilation at all favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold,
+use a little fire-heat occasionally during the day, especially where
+there are many plants in bloom, that ventilation may be given to
+expel damp and stagnant air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to
+be shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots.
+The compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould,
+and one part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and
+will thrive tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost
+during the winter. They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal
+ashes, and kept as near to the glass as possible.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse,
+be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be
+given carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded
+by mats, or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy
+by free exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if
+they are shaded from the sun&rsquo;s rays until gradually thawed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mignonette.</span>&mdash;Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The
+soil to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks
+at the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant
+through the winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage
+and keeping the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a
+hotbed frame will find it useful to start the seeds by moderate
+heat. Others who have no such convenience may place their pots in a
+cold frame in a sheltered situation, and upon a floor of rough
+stones overlaid with ashes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;The more dormant they can be kept during the winter
+the better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should
+be given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at
+all favourable opportunities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Verbenas.</span>&mdash;To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the
+glass as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of
+green fly, and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a
+healthy condition.</p><!-- page 106 -->
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Ferns.</span>&mdash;Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot
+to be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy
+pieces to form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the
+tops and sides of these pieces of soil, by which there is more
+probability of some of them vegetating than if they had been sown on
+a level surface where the whole of the seed would be subjected to
+the same kind of treatment, which might with ordinary care be either
+too wet or too dry. The pot to be set in a saucer that contains a
+little water, which will feed the whole mass with sufficient
+moisture without a drop being required on the surface of the pot.
+The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the stove where
+evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do not like
+to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould,
+supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of
+atmospheric moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every
+second joint, and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is
+large, to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or
+fence, packed in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any
+other such covering, to protect them from heavy falls of rain until
+they are wanted for forcing.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs
+occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat
+during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in
+the circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead
+leaves, and the destruction of insects.</p><!-- page 107 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Bulbs.</span>&mdash;Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &amp;c., to flower late in the
+spring; also the Ixiæ and Gladioli, and various other Irideæ; and
+also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &amp;c. They delight in light open soil
+composed of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an
+addition to, or substitute for, the peat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower
+as specimens in early spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums</span> to be treated with manure water occasionally. All
+suckers and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be
+thinned.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will
+be of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused
+by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning;
+the principal shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly
+and useless ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage
+a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound,
+dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the
+green fly.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at
+the second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length
+before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they
+are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their
+leaves. If the lights are still off any of the early houses the
+sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from
+60° to 65° at night, with an increase during the day in accordance
+with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy,
+foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less.
+Humidity to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to
+produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession
+plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by
+having a small quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated
+by dung will require covering with mats at night: when covered<!-- page 108 --> let
+every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass
+off. When the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the
+glass. Take advantage of all opportunities for giving a little air.
+If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of
+the plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned
+for some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature
+wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If
+the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed
+amongst decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a
+good condition for holding on for a long time.</p><!-- page 109 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">NOVEMBER.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived,
+it is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth
+free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire
+to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a
+free circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the
+afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments
+of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in
+severely, night coverings, if possible, should be applied in
+preference to fire-heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">American Plants</span>, &amp;c.&mdash;Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias,
+hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required
+for winter forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;They will require an abundance of air to prevent
+the flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water,
+and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their
+beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost
+entirely denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably
+detracts from what should be their ornamental appearance in the
+greenhouse or conservatory.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Primroses</span> (Chinese).&mdash;Give a few of the strongest and most forward
+a shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for
+cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the
+flowers like the single varieties.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Great caution will now be necessary in the application of
+atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a
+premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could
+thoroughly rectify. The thermometer<!-- page 110 --> for the majority of stove
+plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60°, with a fall of 8°
+or 10° during the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Begonias.</span>&mdash;They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants
+of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce;
+they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when
+in bloom.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Hotbeds.</span>&mdash;Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to
+the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam
+in the frames.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now
+be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be
+taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should
+be taken to select such sorts as the <i>Murray</i>, <i>Elruge</i>, and
+<i>Violette Hâtive</i> Nectarines; <i>Noblesse</i>, <i>Royal George</i>, <i>Grosse
+Mignonne</i>, and <i>Chancellor</i> Peaches, being the best adapted for
+forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although
+they may bear abundantly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible,
+to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the
+spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so
+that it may range from 60° to 65°. The winter-fruiting plants to
+range 10° higher.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the
+house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose,
+be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet
+weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which
+may be a useful hint &ldquo;to make hay while the sun shines,&rdquo; or, in
+other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the
+Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones.
+When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected
+from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly
+injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.</p><!-- page 111 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents;
+shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid&mdash;giving little
+or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Flowers.</span>&mdash;Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared
+for forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light
+is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be
+mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early
+action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in
+which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be
+introduced immediately&mdash;viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs,
+Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars,
+Honeysuckles, &amp;c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs
+that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be
+introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an
+inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the
+pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths</span> and <span class="sc">New Holland Plants</span>.&mdash;Water them sparingly. Dry the
+atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give
+air freely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the
+most forward may be accelerated by a little heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Primroses</span> (Chinese).&mdash;Water with caution. Two or three small pegs
+to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant
+erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down
+gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by
+diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more
+liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen<!-- page 112 -->
+kinds&mdash;such as some of the Aërides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums,
+Vandas, &amp;c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Asparagus.</span>&mdash;Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be
+made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still
+retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be
+placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches
+of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any
+deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the
+heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;Look over the plants in pots, and if they require
+shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be
+plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the
+roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.</p>
+
+<p id="err4"><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them,
+as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be
+required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the
+leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with
+soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one
+ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water.
+Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary.
+Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the
+size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots
+plunged in leaves.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be
+encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are
+likely to &ldquo;show&rdquo; for the next two months to be supplied with a
+temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just
+beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening
+and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently
+renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become
+suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be
+collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for
+lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves
+contribute<!-- page 113 --> to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water
+to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants
+as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in
+consequence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Sea-kale.</span>&mdash;If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small
+hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be
+taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and
+protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and
+suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Rhubarb.</span>&mdash;The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house
+is at work is the best place for both.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which
+fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and
+free from anything likely to create mould or damp.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and
+dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &amp;c., as they spread contagion
+wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity
+to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free
+admission of air.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Azaleas</span> (Chinese).&mdash;Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The
+<i>A. Indica alba</i> and <i>Ph&oelig;nicea</i> are best to begin with; to be
+succeeded by <i>Smith&rsquo;s coccinea</i>, and after it any of the other
+varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they
+are invaluable where they continue for six weeks or two months in
+perfect beauty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid
+state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full
+and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required
+early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where
+heat is applied.</p><!-- page 114 -->
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and
+such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or
+importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light
+situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality
+sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely
+through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and
+see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid,
+even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require
+attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable
+day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of
+that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept
+neat, and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or
+suspended from blocks, baskets, &amp;c., to be arranged in a manner the
+most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough
+cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of
+Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &amp;c., as frequently directed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Beans</span> (Dwarf Kidney).&mdash;Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be
+filled within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of
+old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about
+equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the
+forcing-house for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are
+then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the finger
+about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then
+thinned out, according to the strength of the plants, to six or
+eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering. When the two first
+leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as
+the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots,
+taking especial care that they do not become too wet, or they will
+damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to cause
+them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be
+placed as close<!-- page 115 --> to the glass as possible. The <i>Chinese Dwarf</i> and
+<i>Fulmer</i> are good sorts for forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Figs.</span>&mdash;A temperature of about 40° will suit them at present; if
+allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to
+be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an
+application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of
+summer heat (76°), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose
+services are required before much excitement takes place at top.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to
+be very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures,
+more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of
+about 70°, with a steady top temperature of about 60° during the
+day, and about 55° during the night, will keep the plants in a
+comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the
+temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a
+degree as to endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season,
+nor to rise so high as to excite them into a growth that would be
+immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of
+water will also be necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss
+of time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly
+healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early
+spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for
+forcing should either be placed within the protection of the house
+appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water,
+when necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be
+applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the
+vapour to pass off.<!-- page 116 --> All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &amp;c., to be
+carefully picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or
+anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or
+decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the
+half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Climbers.</span>&mdash;To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as
+possible with the admission of light.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Forcing Pit.</span>&mdash;The various plants described in former Calendars, and
+recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room,
+conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful
+attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on
+suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the
+daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be
+shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in
+preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or
+frequent and moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to
+destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when applied to the
+roots or branches when they require it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">New Holland Plants.</span>&mdash;As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to
+cold draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same
+house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should
+occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when
+necessary, from the top lights only.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orange Trees.</span>&mdash;Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for
+out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias.
+It is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be
+kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions,
+as that their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Asparagus.</span>&mdash;Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be
+procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle
+heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at
+once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits,
+or frames, may be made available for the purpose of forcing
+Asparagus.</p><!-- page 117 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cherries.</span>&mdash;To be treated as advised for Peaches.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;If the plants are strong, and you have a full command
+of bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little
+attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe
+to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is
+indispensable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for
+that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants should
+be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in
+good repair.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly
+directed. The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the
+surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few
+degrees warmer than the temperature of the house.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;The early house should now be set in order, by being
+thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and
+tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at
+night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the
+commencement of forcing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The principal objects of attention during this dull season
+should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a
+moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with
+safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings
+will require some sort of covering&mdash;as straw, fern, boards, or
+shutters&mdash;to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a
+gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their
+season of rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly
+all they will require. If the young plants are growing in pits
+heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from
+the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the
+old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house,
+to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the
+wood, and for &ldquo;breaking&rdquo; the buds. The roots, if outside, to be
+covered with a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat
+by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All
+Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately.</p><!-- page 118 -->
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="month">DECEMBER.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FIRST WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as
+possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or
+rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too
+high&mdash;say greenhouse from 50° to 55° by day and from 40° to 45° by
+night; conservatory 60° by day and 50° by night. Chrysanthemums to
+be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early
+Camellias. The <i>Euphorbia jacquiniflora</i> is well worthy of attention
+now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this
+season, as the least saturation or interference with the root action
+will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower.
+<i>Poinsettia pulcherrima</i> is also worthy of particular attention as a
+noble ornamental flower at this season. The old <i>Plumbago Capensis</i>
+and <i>rosea</i> still retain their places amongst our best plants at
+this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give,
+with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole.
+<i>Gesnera zebrina</i> should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of
+the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter
+flower.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Heaths.</span>&mdash;As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of
+plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They
+can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without
+sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying
+influence of fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and
+which is very frequently death to the plants. They will require but
+very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be
+very particularly examined as to their state of dryness or
+otherwise, as a guide to the<!-- page 119 --> application or withholding of water.
+An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants
+from growing.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The
+temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of
+exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on
+fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface
+of the soil in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and
+lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure the
+roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and
+all climbing plants neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons,
+Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will now be approaching
+a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no
+water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place
+them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by themselves.
+Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to
+keep them safe and sound.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Asparagus</span> and <span class="sc">Sea-kale</span>.&mdash;Make up beds as wanted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Mushrooms.</span>&mdash;Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the
+temperature steadily at or near 60°. A fresh bed to be made and
+spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and
+moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the
+main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every
+favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70° to 75° and
+from 55° to 60° at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful
+attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature,
+admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent
+them from being injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung
+linings, constant watching will be necessary to prevent any
+fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in
+case of frost.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the
+Vines by the application of fermenting<!-- page 120 --> manure inside the house, as
+advised last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the
+atmosphere regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood
+should be syringed frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs,
+kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be protected, and
+afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the buds are fairly swelled.
+As it is advisable to proceed very slowly with early Vines, the
+temperature to range from 55° to 60° by day and from 45° to 50° by
+night, and even rather under than over the above scale. Late Grapes
+will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look over them
+frequently, and dry the house by fire during the day.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">SECOND WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be
+removed as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an
+application of flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented
+from making its appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild
+mornings, using a little fire heat at the same time. Great caution
+is now necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially to
+such as have not well matured their growth, and are in a rather soft
+state. It is also advisable to look over them every morning, that
+the flagging of a leaf may be noticed, and the necessary supply of
+water be given. All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep
+the plants uniform.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias.</span>&mdash;Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no
+more water than is really required. Keep down green fly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cinerarias.</span>&mdash;No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to
+keep out frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive
+their final shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable
+weather. Every one that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green
+fly to be kept down by fumigating. The most forward to have the
+lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with<!-- page 121 --> sufficient
+space for the air to circulate freely around the foliage of each.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pelargoniums.</span>&mdash;To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be
+avoided, except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling
+below 40°, or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom
+to be arranged in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of
+twisted bass under the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened
+to secure the shoots and the better formation of the plant, obviates
+the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of which is at all
+times objectionable.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the
+application of water are more especially required, as there is not a
+single feature in the cultivation of plants during the winter in
+which the amateur is more likely to err, and by reason of which a
+greater amount of injury is sustained, than in the application of
+water either in its fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the soil
+in superabundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain
+some degree of injury; and if it is applied in excess to the
+atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the leaves of
+the plants will be checked in consequence of the density of the
+medium that surrounds them when they will be sure to suffer.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A
+one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most
+suitable for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and
+congenial for their healthy vegetation and growth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the
+buds, and keep every plant clean and neat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;When the application of fire heat is necessary during
+severe weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those
+that have done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that
+they may not receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to
+produce fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere<!-- page 122 --> to &ldquo;break&rdquo;
+the early Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week.
+Keep the wood generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution
+as before advised. As the most essential point in early forcing is
+to secure a healthy and vigorous root action, it is advisable, if
+the Vines are planted inside, to excite the roots by an occasional
+application of water at a temperature from 85° to 90°. It the Vines
+are planted outside, a steady heat of about 60° should be maintained
+by the fermenting matter placed on the border to be frequently
+turned over, and protected with dry litter from the frost or other
+unfavourable weather. Houses intended to commence forcing the early
+part of next month, to have some fermenting materials placed on the
+borders to excite the roots a little before the Vines are started,
+which will be of some assistance to make the buds push strongly and
+without much loss of time. To induce the buds to break regularly
+throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is frequently necessary
+to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward buds to the lowest
+level, and to elevate the most backward.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="week">THIRD WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a
+confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat
+than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must
+be counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes
+condensed on the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the
+beauty of the flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The
+best corrective for such unfavourable results is to be found in
+keeping the temperature as low as may be consistent with the safety
+of the plants, and in withholding moisture as much as possible
+whenever the glass is affected by frost. See that the young stock of
+Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Persian Cyclamens, and other such
+flowers, that are grown especially for winter, are<!-- page 123 --> accommodated
+with a light, airy situation, and receive regular attention as
+regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums until they are
+thoroughly dry, and keep down insects.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and
+only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be
+accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60° by day, and
+50° by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before
+the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do
+not expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our
+collections of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of
+growth, and various kinds of temperature and climate, it is
+difficult to cultivate in one house a miscellaneous collection of
+them so satisfactorily as where there are two divisions, the one
+commanding a higher temperature, with more moisture, than the other.
+Where there is no such division, advantage may be taken of a
+forcing-pit, or other such house, to which any of them now in a
+growing state may be removed, and thus their growth may be promoted
+without injury to the general collection. For the general collection
+a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are now desirable, as no
+plants are more benefited by a season of rest than Orchids.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p>All <span class="sc">Vines</span>, <span class="sc">Peaches</span>, and <span class="sc">Figs</span> in <span class="sc">Pots</span>, or <span class="sc">Tubs</span>, to be secured
+from frost and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an
+excellent plunging medium for such of these as are wanted very
+early. Keep up a succession of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb,
+Sea-kale, &amp;c., according to the demand.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too
+many appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time,
+and now appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour
+again by a judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of
+a top dressing of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of
+liquid manure occasionally.</p><!-- page 124 -->
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as
+beneficial to Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it
+can but rarely be made use of, in consequence of the difference in
+the structure of the interior, moisture must be supplied by other
+means, such as syringing and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when
+warm. A few trees, in pots, are useful for early forcing, as they
+can be easily plunged in a pit or any other convenient place where a
+mild regular bottom heat can be supplied. The trees for this purpose
+must have been grown and established for some time in pots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up
+to carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the
+winter. A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management
+of the succession plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Strawberries.</span>&mdash;If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the
+strongest plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and
+placed in a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the
+back or front shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for
+forcing, to be placed near the glass with a free admission of air on
+fine days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with
+a low temperature&mdash;say, 55° by day and 50° by night, to be increased
+5° more until they break, when it may be raised to 60° at night, and
+65° in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees by
+sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they
+break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines
+are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it
+constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the
+loose bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished
+by an application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient
+composition of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the
+fruit is ripe, a little fire heat will be necessary in frosty
+weather to prevent the vapour that adheres to the glass on the
+inside being frozen, for the moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon
+the bunches causing injury to the bloom, and decay to the berries.</p><!-- page 125 -->
+
+
+<h3 class="week">FOURTH WEEK.</h3>
+
+<h4>GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.</h4>
+
+<p>Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest
+degree compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In
+damp, foggy weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during
+the day to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather
+it is advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more
+especially at night. From 45° by night to 50° by day will be
+sufficient for the conservatory, and 40° for the mixed greenhouse.
+To give a pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is
+advisable to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of
+flower to be removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the
+forcing-pit. All plants in these and other departments to be
+regularly looked over, removing the dead leaves and tying in
+straggling branches. The surface soil to be stirred a little, and
+some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are benefited by exposure to
+frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked or frozen surface
+every morning, until the whole is turned over and penetrated by the
+frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are destroyed,
+and the soil considerably ameliorated.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Calceolarias</span> (Herbaceous).&mdash;To be shifted into larger pots if they
+require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately
+through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get
+thoroughly dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to
+pull or to cut them off too close to the stem, by which the
+flower-shoots would be very likely to get injured.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Camellias.</span>&mdash;Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to
+great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to
+drop their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often
+fall off without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden
+changes in the temperature to which they are exposed. For instance:
+when the buds are nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them
+to push too rapidly; and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at
+the time checks their growth, and in other cases causes them to
+fall. The heat<!-- page 126 --> required to expand the blossom-buds is about 60° by
+day, and 50° by night. If this be attended to, the plants will
+continue in flower for a great length of time, as the plants in that
+heat are not excited to grow. A little weak manure water to be given
+occasionally to the blooming plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Chrysanthemums.</span>&mdash;When they begin to fade, to be removed to the
+north side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan,
+leaves, or sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cytisuses.</span>&mdash;Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the
+coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at
+all favourable opportunities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Orange Trees.</span>&mdash;These, or other such plants that have not been
+recently potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil
+and supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping
+the leaves clean and healthy.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of
+heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the
+freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10° or 15° above
+freezing, we would advise from 50° by night to 60° by day, for the
+stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer
+from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and
+either the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of
+the hothouse would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias,
+Euphorbias, Luculias, &amp;c. Such plants should be carefully tied up
+and placed in the most conspicuous situations, or some of them may
+be removed to the conservatory so as to prolong their season of
+blooming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Allamandas.</span>&mdash;Continue the temperature and treatment as lately
+advised. To be potted, as also <i>Stephanotis</i>, &amp;c., and trained
+preparatory to starting them into growth, about the beginning of the
+new year.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Forcing-pit.</span>&mdash;Introduce such plants as are generally used for
+forcing, especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley,
+Sweet Briar, Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual
+Roses, and bulbous plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Ixoras.</span>&mdash;To be elevated near the glass to set their<!-- page 127 --> bloom, and to
+have plenty of air at favourable opportunities.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FORCING-HOUSES.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Cucumbers.</span>&mdash;No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants
+are ridged out and in action.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Peaches.</span>&mdash;It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and
+some other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing
+in pots, and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage
+of being able to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which
+is of the greatest importance in early forcing. Those who have good
+established trees, in pots, may now start them in a moderate heat.
+Air to be given liberally in favourable weather, and the syringe to
+be used freely over them morning and evening. The surface soil to be
+stirred up and kept open, and a supply of manure water to be given
+previous to starting them. The trees in the late houses to receive
+whatever pruning is necessary, and to be cleansed of every particle
+of scale, and afterwards washed with a composition of soft soap and
+sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to be carefully removed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Pines.</span>&mdash;During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw,
+&amp;c., will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be
+of more service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the
+temperature. When a supply of fruit is required throughout the year,
+it is sometimes necessary, at this season, to subject some of the
+plants to a high temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such
+as are most likely to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by
+themselves, where a temperature of from 60° to 65° by night, and
+from 70° to 75° by day, with about 80° of bottom heat, will be the
+most certain treatment for starting them into fruit. The other
+plants can then be supplied with a moderate temperature until the
+beginning of February; by such treatment a succession of fruit will
+be prolonged. Do not suffer the linings of dung-beds to decline,
+keep up, if possible, a temperature of 50° at night, and 60° by day,
+with a little air at every favourable opportunity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Potatoes.</span>&mdash;Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in
+three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit,
+or in any other place where there is some heat,<!-- page 128 --> they will, in due
+time, be useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames
+or pits.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Raspberries.</span>&mdash;When a few early dishes would be considered a treat,
+if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the
+Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common
+care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting
+them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Vines.</span>&mdash;When started and until the buds are fairly broken,
+endeavour to keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with
+the lowest part of the Vine, and if that should not be found
+sufficient to induce the buds to start regularly throughout the
+whole length of the Vine, the rod should be bent so as to bring the
+most forward buds to the lowest level, and elevating those that are
+backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up by sprinkling the floor
+and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly every morning and
+evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the supply of
+moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots to
+some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not
+done as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful
+for early work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines
+in houses, from the hazardous operation of early excitement.
+Increase the temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to
+swell, or are starting a little. The fermenting material in the
+house to be stirred up occasionally. This fermenting material
+should, if possible, consist of a large proportion of leaves mixed
+with the dung, to prevent the steam from the latter discolouring the
+rafters and sashes; and if the vapour is likely to be too strong, a
+thin covering of sawdust or old tan will prevent any injurious
+effects. If the roots are outside the house, and had been covered
+before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more dung and
+leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border, the
+good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the
+Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the
+Vines to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with
+white lead.</p>
+
+
+<div id="tnotes">
+<p>Transcriber's Notes:</p>
+
+<p>Irregularly hyphenated words have been left as they appeared in the
+original. A few minor puctuation errors and omissions have been
+silently corrected.</p>
+
+<p>The following typographical errors have been corrected:</p>
+
+<table>
+<tr><th>Original</th><th>Emendation</th></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#err1">[unclear] to leave one-third more</a></td>
+  <td><b>but</b> to leave one-third more</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><a href="#err2">If green fly makes it appearance</a></td>
+  <td>If green fly makes <b>its</b> appearance</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><a href="#err3">a compatively dormant state</a></td>
+  <td>a <b>comparatively</b> dormant state</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><a href="#err4">but if such is neccessary</a></td>
+  <td>but if such is <b>necessary</b></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the
+Year, by William Keane
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost
+no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use
+it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
+eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year
+       Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants
+       Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit,
+       Orchid, and Forcing-house
+
+Author: William Keane
+
+Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+IN-DOOR GARDENING
+
+FOR
+
+EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR:
+
+SHOWING
+
+THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS
+
+CULTIVATED IN THE
+
+GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+BY WILLIAM KEANE.
+
+THIRD EDITION.
+
+LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, FLEET
+STREET.
+
+1865.
+
+
+
+
+IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY.
+
+
+JANUARY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Cinerarias.--The plants intended for large specimens must receive their
+final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their foliage
+without interfering with or injuring each other. The side-shoots to be
+tied out.
+
+Epacrises.--As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, a
+little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display their
+spikes of bloom more advantageously.
+
+Fuchsias.--If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest
+should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots,
+beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the
+roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice
+moist temperature of 50 deg. by day and 40 deg. by night.
+
+Heaths.--To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves removed.
+The most forward in bud--such as the _Vestitas_, _Vernix_, _Vasciflora_,
+_Aristata_, _Beaumontia_, and many others, to be tied out, and arranged
+for the season.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When large specimens are wanted, tie out the branches at
+equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot as possible.
+Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water to be given but
+sparingly, and not overhead.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if kept
+at 50 deg. in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The
+atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is bright;
+and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be
+removed to the warmest part of the house.
+
+Clerodendrons.--To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced and
+repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and
+also of any hard-wooded stove plants.
+
+Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient to
+prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually it is
+necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to be kept
+moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., daily. If any
+plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it should be placed in
+the warmest part of the house, and the ripening process encouraged. The
+Brassias, Cyanoches, Coelogynes, Miltonias, and other such plants, when
+they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The compost to consist of
+turfy peat mixed with a portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the
+pots to be at least half full of very open drainage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial
+heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air.
+
+Figs.--Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature without
+injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to begin
+cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with fire the
+less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of sun and
+light must be embraced for making sure progress with them.
+
+Peaches.--Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to be
+cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have expanded
+their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or other
+artificial heat to be applied moderately--that is, from 45 deg. by night
+to 55 deg. by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather prevails.
+The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately moist, and in
+a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty freely once or twice
+a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny days, and sprinkle the
+paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently.
+
+Vines.--When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be rubbed
+off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long enough to
+admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch being
+broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice of
+producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by means of dung
+and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If they are to be broken
+principally by fire heat, either by flues or hot-water pipes, copious
+syringings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice a-day.
+Fire heat to be applied principally by day, with air at the same time,
+and very moderately at night.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants will now require particular attention and a nice
+discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended by
+all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the soil on
+the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water until it
+gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be given before
+the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the plant droops and
+the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is then to be discovered
+by turning the ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the
+whole or only a portion of the soil is wet; as it sometimes happens,
+when fresh potted with light soil, it shrinks from the sides of the pot
+when dry, and when water is given it runs down and moistens the outside,
+without penetrating the ball. The evil is corrected by holding it for
+a short space of time in a tub of water of the same temperature as the
+house. If the soil of any plant is sodden with water it should be turned
+out of the pot, and the drainage examined, and no water to be given
+until it becomes thoroughly dry.
+
+Verbenas.--They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more
+susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the
+glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew
+appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, they
+will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not suffer for
+want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60 deg. by fire heat, and
+a fall of 10 deg. may be allowed at night in very cold weather. Many of
+the stove plants--such as Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c.--may
+now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a few weeks, which will
+cause them to make an early growth, and to come into flower a few weeks
+sooner next winter.
+
+Gesneras.--Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to
+start into growth to produce a succession of flowers.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply
+of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness is
+sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the top is
+kept moist by gentle waterings.
+
+Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply is
+wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give them
+frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red spider.
+
+Mushrooms.--An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If the
+beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it like dew
+at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50 deg. to 60 deg., with
+air occasionally in favourable weather.
+
+Peaches.--Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be
+artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off
+a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be
+carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have
+been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end doors
+being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top daily in
+favourable weather.
+
+Pines.--As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants that are
+swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual increase of heat
+(from 65 deg. at night to 75 deg. or 80 deg. in the middle of the day in
+clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while others that
+are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or more moderate
+temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric humidity. Some of
+the strongest succession plants that are grown in pots to receive their
+final shift, that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or
+June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where the flues run near the
+tan-bed, the plants should be closely examined, as they are apt to be
+injured by fire heat in such a situation.
+
+Strawberries.--A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame where
+there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to their healthy
+growth than in a house.
+
+Vines.--When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the night
+temperature to range from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of from 5
+deg. to 10 deg. during the day.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully
+exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than is
+absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and keep
+the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.
+
+Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and _Early
+Horn_ Carrots, Cauliflower and _Walcheren_ Broccoli, Lettuce, and
+various other things, which will be found useful where the late severe
+weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn sowings.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+
+Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always
+unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.
+Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water
+settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, bulbs,
+or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be
+removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in
+perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead
+or decaying leaf and flower to be removed.
+
+Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such
+coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much
+injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere.
+Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all
+opportunities.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally
+shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a
+slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and
+free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be
+the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs
+of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water,
+increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
+
+Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more
+time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very
+fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this
+time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth.
+Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in
+boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance
+of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very
+dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to
+shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence
+the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation;
+as the treatment required for _Oncidium Carthaginense_ would kill _O.
+bifolium_, and _Cattleya Forbesii_ will thrive where _C. Skinneri_ will
+die, and in like manner with many others.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in
+heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into
+small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when
+necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south
+border.
+
+Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate
+temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to
+swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the
+temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich
+soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the
+plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading
+shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from
+the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will
+come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.
+
+Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air
+where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis
+towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
+
+Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
+
+Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are
+impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free
+circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the
+bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55
+deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water
+until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.
+
+Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for
+Capsicums.
+
+Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are
+sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots
+to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required
+for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the
+shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow
+from one joint one of them should be removed.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared
+and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate
+use should be stored in an open shed.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be potted into larger pots as they
+require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould,
+with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a moderately-moist
+atmospheric temperature of from 45 deg. at night to 55 deg. in the day.
+To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept
+free from insects.
+
+Fuchsias.--After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their
+roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat,
+with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced to a
+temperature of 60 deg.. When some of the young shoots are an inch long
+they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where
+they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in heat to
+make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower garden.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Water them with care and moderation. Air to be
+given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied
+only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong shoots
+of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the best
+foundation for future good specimens.
+
+Sow seeds of Thunbergias, _Phlox Drummondi_, Mignonette, _Ten-week_ and
+other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Achimenes.--Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as
+they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be
+started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.
+
+Gloxinias.--Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted
+in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be
+excited in bottom heat.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Those which were first in flower should be dried off
+for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding water
+gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the light.
+
+Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender
+annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine specimens for the
+adornment of the conservatory in summer.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will
+require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally
+when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce sturdy growth.
+The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be
+kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly;
+and to maintain a heat of not less than 70 deg. by day; to be able
+to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always
+prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those
+who are fortunate enough to be provided with pits heated by hot-water
+pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be necessary.
+
+Melons.--To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.
+
+Peaches.--When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue
+syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, to produce a moist, but not too
+damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh air is
+indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable opportunity;
+and if the cold external air could be made to pass over the flues, or
+hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in contact with the
+blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly kept up until the
+fruit is fairly set.
+
+Pines.--Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those
+that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more water may
+lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate during the day.
+But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be
+drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the
+end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to the point of a small stick.
+
+Strawberries.--When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little
+liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly
+clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there is a gentle
+heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to
+be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass.
+
+Vines.--Continue the treatment as advised last week.
+
+Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and
+Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward
+to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger from frost is
+over.
+
+
+
+
+FEBRUARY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and the
+small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, with a
+liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept rather close
+until they make fresh roots.
+
+Azaleas (Indian).--Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted before
+starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat and sand,
+with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature between 60 deg. and
+70 deg. to be maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow
+seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat.
+
+Kalosanthes.--To be started into growth, potting them in a compost of
+half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf
+mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of charcoal
+and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be given, and
+to be kept in a temperature of from 45 deg. to 50 deg..
+
+New Holland Plants.--Select young plants of the Boronias and other such
+families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good fibrous
+heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of drainage.
+It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the tops of
+the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome specimens.
+
+Orange Trees.--Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed from
+them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin to grow,
+as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean without injury.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount of
+atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an advance to
+be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar heat can be
+enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial atmosphere.
+
+Crinums.--Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the ball
+of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of heat
+to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be liberally
+supplied with water.
+
+Gloriosa superba.--Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous loam,
+with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No water to be
+applied to the tubers until they have commenced their growth.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier,
+and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable and
+useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65 deg. to 70 deg. to be
+maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have made
+three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with liquid
+manure.
+
+Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the
+reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled their
+pots with roots.
+
+Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of the
+year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees several
+times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all weathers until
+the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to the early house,
+when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to leave one-third more
+on the trees than will be required to ripen off. If Peaches are intended
+to be grown in pots for next season, the maiden plants should now be
+procured, and potted in nine or ten inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach
+and _Violette Hative_ Nectarine are the most eligible for that purpose.
+
+Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the
+surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove them.
+The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house or pit
+as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we would not
+advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of starting them
+into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are good, healthy plants,
+they will have formed their fructiferous parts before this time, and
+therefore should not be allowed to get dry, but be watered when they
+require it with tepid water.
+
+Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all respects
+the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be increased in
+accordance with the increase of light rather more rapidly at an early
+stage of their growth than that of the house in which forcing was
+commenced in December. When Vines for the early crops are grown in pots,
+put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge them in a dung-frame or pit,
+with a bottom heat between 70 deg. and 80 deg.. The _Hamburghs_, _Black
+Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweetwater_ are the kinds to be preferred for
+that purpose.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter, now
+begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all others
+that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the better
+enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check or
+hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to be
+considered the most favourable season for a general shift, nevertheless
+it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once or twice during
+their season of growth.
+
+Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and cutting
+back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots is
+desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider, as they
+are more liable than other plants to be infested by them.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse
+plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove plants.
+
+Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil, consisting
+of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general rule they are
+repotted in February and August; but exceptions are sometimes made, and
+a shift is given whenever the roots become cramped or matted in the pot.
+The knife to be used cautiously, unless with the tall-growing sorts.
+
+Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight ago.
+When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil, and
+give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil will
+be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little may
+be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they advance
+in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where the
+temperature is about 60 deg..
+
+Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half
+turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with good
+drainage.
+
+Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam, vegetable
+soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand, with plenty of
+drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a bark-bed, and to keep the
+roots moist.
+
+Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the warmest
+part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be supplied with a
+little fresh material, taking care that the embryo buds are not covered.
+Look over the fastenings of all that are on blocks, or in baskets, and
+renew the wires where necessary. The temperature to be about 65 deg. by
+day, allowing it to range to 70 deg. or 75 deg. by sun-heat.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50 deg. to 55 deg. while the
+trees are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not
+in flower to be frequently syringed.
+
+Cucumbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of
+the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the
+heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being, as
+it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer, which
+is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in the frame;
+cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will allow it, a small
+portion of air should be left on every night, which may be given in the
+evening after the frame has been closed for two or three hours. Keep up
+the heat by stirring, renewing, or topping-up the linings; and attend
+to the stopping of the plants, and the earthing-up of the hills, as the
+roots make their appearance on the surface.
+
+Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully expanded.
+
+Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if
+growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed with
+soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or a little
+above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in clear, mild
+weather as soon as the fruit is set.
+
+Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong,
+healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring
+them, leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if
+unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely away,
+and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive and healthy,
+and potting them in fresh soil.
+
+Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in a
+gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks.
+
+Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless buds and
+branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in regularly, and
+the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left on each Vine than
+it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About one dozen bunches are a
+good average crop for each rod. The temperature to range from 55 deg. to
+60 deg. at night, with an increase of 5 deg. to 10 deg. during the day,
+and even higher during sunshine.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged,
+cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other
+considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season
+of blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer.
+Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all other
+such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then kept close
+for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly to be kept down.
+
+Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, and
+all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for bedding-out
+purposes.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days lengthen.
+Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, and
+Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and
+started in the same manner.
+
+Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high temperature
+causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable to keep up a
+healthy atmosphere of from 55 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of a few
+degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very short
+time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid draughts at this early
+period of the year. All growing plants to be watered at the roots only,
+being careful not to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves
+to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids in a healthy state
+it is necessary to grow them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made
+proportionate to the specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel
+of the plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as much
+space as possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well
+on blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_,
+_Phalaenopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Brassavolas, the
+Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Laelias, and nearly
+all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the Schombergias.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the
+fruit blossom when open.
+
+Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of air are
+excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with water, and
+the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.
+
+Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be done
+gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and injurious
+change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be
+kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55 deg. to 65 deg. and 70 deg.
+by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in bloom; the
+bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy setters, to be
+artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil for that purpose.
+
+Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in raising
+the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning temperature
+is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be
+syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every clear day unless
+the plants are in bloom, or ripening their fruit. Any crowns, suckers,
+or small plants not well established will do well in a pit or frame on a
+bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where they will make a rapid and
+vigorous growth during the summer.
+
+Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all laterals,
+&c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all the principal
+shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand
+to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their
+swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour.
+Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_,
+&c.--will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before expansion,
+by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late
+Vines should be pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be
+removed, which will retard their breaking, and benefit the trees.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these houses,
+and then particular attention must be given to the New Holland plants,
+Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat, that they do not
+suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moistened
+at least once a-week.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, Maurandyas,
+Rodochitons, and Tropaeolums, deserve attention at this time, increasing
+them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also worthy of attention,
+such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, with others
+which may all be forwarded in heat. Whoever has not yet attended to the
+propagation of plants for bedding out, should now begin, without further
+delay, to put in cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias,
+Salvias, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May and June.
+All straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy
+plants.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back,
+such as the _Eranthemum pulchellum_, _Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora_,
+_Geissomeria longiflora_, _Gesnera lateritia_, Justicias, _Linum
+trigynum_, _Poinsettia pulcherrima_, and others. A bottom heat will be
+necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about three weeks
+or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they require shifting,
+to be attended to. The condition or fitness for this must, in a great
+measure, be determined by the progress the shoots and roots have made.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes,
+Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks,
+Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last year's young
+Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and _Salvia patens_, to be shaken out, repotted,
+and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, &c.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping, set
+the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames watered with
+warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots. Water overhead on
+fine days, shutting up with 75 deg. or 80 deg. of heat.
+
+Cherries.--They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all times
+except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable occasions,
+shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep down the green fly
+and look well after caterpillars.
+
+Figs.--Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead, except
+on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the fruit to
+drop off or to turn yellow.
+
+Peaches.--Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they
+advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not
+wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of the
+temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their fruit.
+Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and disbudding,
+merely sufficient wood for next spring.
+
+Pines.--The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the
+fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking care
+that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants. The
+plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with clean soot
+water, air to be admitted on every favourable opportunity, but cold
+draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept up in succession-pits
+worked with linings.
+
+Strawberries.--To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and in
+favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure water, and
+the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred.
+
+Vines.--As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning
+process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to induce
+a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be properly
+trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All small bunches
+to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, the heat by day may
+be allowed to rise from 70 deg. to 80 deg.. See to the border coverings,
+if out-doors, as also border waterings, if in-doors. Be careful when
+admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid cold currents and changes,
+for in the space of an hour we have sometimes strong sunshine, sleet
+or snow, and cutting winds. Vines in pots to be supplied with plenty of
+manure water in all stages of growth, but especially when swelling off
+their fruit.
+
+
+
+
+MARCH.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of
+air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and also to
+temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side. If
+severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used in
+consequence, many plants that may appear all right may, nevertheless, be
+very dry, and if they are not examined, and when very dry, well soaked
+with water, they will soon show unmistakeable signs of approaching
+death.
+
+Azaleas (Indian).--Young plants that have commenced their growth to be
+repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them in a
+warm, moist situation.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould,
+with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth in
+foliage.
+
+Heaths.--Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy heath-soil
+full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure that the ball
+is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly dry when that
+operation is performed the waterings afterwards given will pass freely
+through the fresh soil without penetrating the old ball. Give them all
+the air possible, avoiding north or north-east winds.
+
+Potting must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the
+occupants of these houses.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as briskly
+as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in growth is
+advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check the increase of
+insects.
+
+Orchids.--The general collection to be favoured with a good steaming
+every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done by
+sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing state to
+be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a perspiration
+during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are generally increased
+by passing a sharp knife between the pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave
+at least two or three undisturbed next the growing shoots) so as to
+sever one or more of the dormant bulbs from the parent plant, which
+should remain until it shows signs of growth, when it may be taken off
+and potted.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom, plenty of
+air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up with a little
+extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days.
+
+Figs.--Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure
+may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause
+the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to be
+stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop.
+
+Melons.--Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to the
+linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry atmosphere
+when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin.
+
+Peaches.--Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young shoots,
+disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the border is
+necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious errors may be
+made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or by giving too much.
+The temperature of the early house to be from 55 deg. to 60 deg. by
+night, ranging from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by sun heat, and allowing 65 deg.
+by artificial heat, on dull days.
+
+Pines.--A day temperature of 75 deg. to 80 deg. to be maintained during
+the progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric
+moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat, and
+to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy action of
+the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright sunshine.
+
+Vines.--As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the
+heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or
+haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The moss
+or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe, will keep
+the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently induce a mass
+of roots to be produced there. That by watering occasionally with liquid
+manure will contribute to sustain the vigour of the trees.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur
+at this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant
+sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention is
+necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, may be
+given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds excluded. Frequent
+watering will also be necessary, and fires to be dispensed with, or only
+used occasionally, merely to ward off the rigour of sharp nights. The
+plants in good health, and well rooted, to receive a liberal shift.
+All plants when shifted to be accommodated with a little extra heat and
+moisture in the atmosphere until they begin to make fresh roots, when
+they will require to be more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy,
+vigorous growth.
+
+Camellias.--The plants that have finished flowering to be removed to
+a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by frequent
+syringings.
+
+Cinerarias.--Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to form
+handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house to be
+given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into larger pots
+as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of air, light, and
+room.
+
+Fuchsias.--They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist
+temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the syringe, to
+make them large pyramidal specimens.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Attention to be paid to their training, to watering, and
+to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all that may be
+wanted for late blooming.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as
+possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during the
+day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the bottom
+heat ranges from 70 deg. to 80 deg..
+
+Orchids will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of wood
+with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be supplied to
+those in pots in a growing state.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding,
+tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing
+morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of
+solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to obtain
+satisfactory results.
+
+Cherries.--Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as
+either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop.
+
+Cucumbers.--The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline rapidly
+during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and air to be
+given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape, taking care
+to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing a mat or canvass
+before the openings.
+
+Figs.--A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to be
+given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience, the
+trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves into which
+they root, and where they are allowed to remain until they have borne
+their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots are cut back to the
+pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined in brick pits, where
+short-jointed fruitful wood is produced without root pruning, which is
+necessary when the roots are allowed to ramble without control.
+
+Melons.--This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will have
+a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be most
+wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow seed for a
+succession.
+
+Pines.--Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be supplied
+with soot or other manure water occasionally during the whole time they
+are swelling the fruit until they attain their full size; watering and
+syringing overhead should be withheld when they begin to change colour,
+to give flavour to the fruit. The succession-plants recently potted to
+be very moderately supplied with manure water, and in a very diluted
+state until their roots reach the sides of the pots.
+
+Strawberries.--Introduce succession-plants under glass, according to the
+demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom and near
+the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of fresh air
+without currents.
+
+Vines.--Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to leave
+more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to perfection. The
+borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be maintained at the
+roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply good soakings of manure
+water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the late Vines as soon as the
+bunches are perceptible.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the
+hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in good
+time to acquire a vigorous growth.
+
+Cacti.--The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them an
+alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of lime
+rubbish and loam, with a little cowdung, and in well-drained pots.
+In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered; and from
+October to March to be kept perfectly dry.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots in a compost
+of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy peat,
+old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss on the
+crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be freely
+given, avoiding currents of cold air.
+
+Heaths.--Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be stopped, to
+produce a more uniform and compact plant.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--To be potted either in a good peat, with a little
+silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver sand. The
+bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of the pot to
+allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The
+house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them to
+push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have not been
+stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their trusses, on sunny
+days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up warm, with the sun upon
+it, about three or four o'clock in the afternoon.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a plentiful
+supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80 deg. or more,
+allowing a fall of 20 deg. during the night. Shake out and repot in
+succession the stove plants that have been previously recommended to be
+headed back, and encourage a free growth by plunging them, if possible,
+in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used until they have filled them
+with roots, they may then receive one bold shift that might probably be
+sufficient for the season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the
+operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the action
+of the roots. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere like fine mild weather
+in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit, give the trees no
+water at the roots, as this is generally one of the chief causes of so
+much of it falling off at that time.
+
+Figs.--When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally
+supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or
+five eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up
+vacancies.
+
+Melons.--Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &c., as required.
+Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and lively atmosphere
+during that period. Air to be given freely in favourable weather, but
+cautiously, with some contrivance to break cold winds. Do not allow a
+plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently strong to sustain it.
+
+Peaches.--Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that
+are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the
+period)--say 65 deg. by day and 60 deg. by night; but when they commence
+their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant
+shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when
+about the size of Peas.
+
+Pines.--The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with manure
+water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if recently
+shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun is powerful;
+to be kept rather close and dry, except slight sprinklings over the
+tops, until they have taken root, when they may be watered freely, and
+will generally require no more to be given for a week or ten days.
+
+Vines.--The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have been
+thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and moisture. The
+night temperature to be kept up to 65 deg., with an increase of 10 deg.
+by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second house may now be in
+bloom, and will require attention in tying the shoots and keeping up the
+necessary amount of heat, with less moisture. Where the fruit is set,
+give the Vines a good syringing, to wash off the flowers; after which
+the leaves and fruit should not be again wetted, but to be supplied with
+atmospheric moisture by watering the floor of the house, and sprinkling
+the flues or pipes, or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of
+tepid manure water to the Vines fruiting in pots.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or are
+in active growth, constant attention will be required for the judicious
+regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh air during
+fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water to the roots,
+and atmospheric moisture.
+
+When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which
+inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in proper
+condition for the growing season. No fear need then be apprehended from
+potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, &c., and admit plenty
+of air, bearing in mind former directions as to draughts, &c. If the
+plants in the borders, or any of the climbers, are dry, give them a good
+soaking of weak, tepid manure water. Trellis climbers to be frequently
+attended to--stopping, training, and arranging their shoots.
+
+Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender annuals by
+potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the side of the pot.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the plants
+well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots up to the
+lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh rootlets from
+the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly.
+
+Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops of
+gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained.
+
+Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show flower.
+
+Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck.
+
+Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots,
+according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by placing
+them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as soon as they
+are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature similar to that
+in which they were struck.
+
+Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy circulation
+of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove plants. Continue
+to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last week, those which have
+been flowering through the winter. To be then favoured with a bottom
+heat of from 75 deg. to 80 deg., and slightly shaded during bright
+sunshine.
+
+Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for specimens
+will probably require a second shift, see to them in time; and if
+they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a large
+shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air at all
+favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with moisture. The
+surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week, and sprinkle it
+occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist, congenial atmosphere
+about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun heat. Look sharply after
+mealy-bug and thrips.
+
+Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed into the
+flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan.
+
+Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them, as
+they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much water over
+those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may damp off.
+Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. _Calantha
+veratifolia_, _Neottia picta_, _N. elata_, Phaius of sorts, some
+varieties of Stanhopea, _Zygopetaltum Mackayii_, and other such Orchids
+that are now making their growth, would be benefited by an application
+of clear, diluted manure water occasionally; a kindly humidity to
+be kept up, and the shading to be in readiness for use during bright
+mid-day sun.
+
+
+PITS AND FRAMES.
+
+Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give air
+daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot
+off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias,
+Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal supply of
+manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them.
+
+Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the
+temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to be
+liberally supplied.
+
+Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give a
+little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off, when
+they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As soon as
+the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame, never allow any
+of the laterals to grow more than two joints before being stopped. Stop
+frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit show at a joint pinch
+one away.
+
+Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the walls
+exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.
+
+Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, moist
+heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The plants
+that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air at every
+favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. The
+shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that are not
+wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65 deg., and air to be
+admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75 deg.; but to be given
+very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young
+plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong and
+vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when they
+require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the beds
+by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated in
+accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats do not
+hang over either the front or back of the frames.
+
+Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that have
+been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; sprinkle the
+floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are
+to have the materials for making the beds well prepared and sweet--that
+is, free from rank steam, and the spawn to be put in whilst the heat
+keeps regular and moderate, and the beds are coated over to keep it so
+until the spawn is well established.
+
+Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those that
+are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, leaving
+more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is liable to
+drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended
+to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, and some suitable
+trees have to be provided, it should be no longer postponed. It is a
+good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, to succeed any that may
+become useless.
+
+Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, and a
+humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85
+deg. during the day, and as near 70 deg. as possible at night; the
+succession-pits from 75 deg. to 80 deg. during day, and 60 deg. to 65
+deg. at night. These particulars to be modified by the state of the
+weather, whether sunny or dull.
+
+Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their fruit,
+when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, or any other
+house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their
+fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling overhead
+daily. When the fruit begins to change colour the sprinkling to be
+dispensed with, and the supply of water at the roots to be given
+sparingly.
+
+Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air,
+accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention
+to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming the
+borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the
+influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice as to
+tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the fruit in the
+succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set. When thinning be
+as careful as possible of the bunches--neither pull them about with
+the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently produced, nor with
+whatever the shoulders may be held up by at the time of thinning, as,
+by the twisting of the stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced.
+Attention to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all
+useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which is most
+beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look over houses where the
+fruit is swelling, and see if any of the bunches would be improved by
+tying up the shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should
+be inarched before the wood gets too old.
+
+
+
+
+APRIL.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses have
+been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the sooner they
+are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants
+with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and pay attention to the
+destruction of insects the moment you can perceive them.
+
+Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to syringe
+them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and maintaining a kindly
+humidity during the time they are making their growth.
+
+Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, and
+shade slightly during bright sunshine.
+
+Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling
+growth to be stopped.
+
+Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing of
+turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, Dillwynias,
+Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c.,
+a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the young growth as it may
+require it; keep them clean, and repot them when necessary.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss of
+time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will feed
+greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of the pot.
+Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of air,
+using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe frequently air
+plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80
+deg. towards three or four o'clock.
+
+Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for
+succession.
+
+Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be
+reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some time
+afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; and
+also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_, _Justicias_,
+_Linums_, &c.
+
+Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.
+
+Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere for
+a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied until that
+period, and then with moderation.
+
+
+FORCING-PIT.
+
+Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such plants
+from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and autumn
+decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, the
+temperature may be raised to 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, and
+syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp
+look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in
+them destroyed.
+
+Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally with
+water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. Temperature, 65
+deg. by day and 55 deg. by night.
+
+Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state of
+the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes show
+one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which should be
+picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. The vines,
+or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and when they have nearly
+filled the frame, or other allotted space, several fruit should be
+impregnated at one time. Sow for successional crop.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the shoots as
+they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, fumigate the
+house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them in tobacco water.
+When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the number
+you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, which is better than
+pulling them off.
+
+Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and,
+therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants may
+now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting those that
+are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85
+deg. during day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night. The successions
+from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night.
+
+Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of water,
+syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.
+
+Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines
+in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now
+commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable
+opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently
+cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the later houses,
+attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The last house to
+be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most cases, will be
+considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently; to
+apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and to postpone the
+application of fire-heat as long as possible.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the
+greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost. It
+will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other such
+plants.
+
+Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their fresh
+growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a short time.
+
+Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants making
+wood, with a temperature of about 65 deg. by day and 55 deg. by night.
+Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy, short-jointed
+wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright sunshine.
+
+Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may not
+suffer by want of water.
+
+Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in pots
+which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas, Thunbergias,
+Nierembergias, Tropaeolums, and other such plants of a slender and
+tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion being composed of
+leaf mould.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers.
+
+Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention without
+delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of their growth;
+as the free-growing kinds will require more room than the less vigorous
+ones.
+
+New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or
+approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger
+quantity of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted since
+last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading shoots, to
+produce bushy plants.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and
+fumigating, if the green fly appears.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the
+free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing; using
+shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted, give less
+water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first watering will be
+moist enough for some time. Some of the free-growing kinds of Cattleyas,
+Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums, Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should
+be encouraged to make kindly growth by frequent syringings about their
+pots, blocks, or baskets.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The principal objects to be attended to are--abundance of
+air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist atmosphere, and
+the free application of the syringe. The temperature the same as last
+week. Particular attention in watering to be paid to the trees in
+pots,--as too much is as bad as, if not worse than, too little.
+
+Figs.--Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye.
+Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to change for
+ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak tepid liquid
+manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when they are confined
+in pots or tubs.
+
+Melons.--As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a crop
+are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of each other,
+they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than cure, keep
+the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent syringings in fine
+weather, and closing early; insects will but rarely, if ever, attack
+thriving plants.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the
+early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak
+liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all
+laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin them;
+as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an earlier period
+of the season.
+
+Pine Apples.--Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong solar
+heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid; therefore,
+water must be applied to both roots and leaves. Succession plants to be
+shaded during sudden bright sunshine or sunbursts; and be guided in the
+application of water by the active or inactive state of the roots.
+
+Vines.--Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance. The
+first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of Peas;
+the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after the
+berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches long,
+crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and forward,
+as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to be tied up
+as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine afternoon, and
+close the house early. Give air early in the morning, that the leaves
+may become gradually dry before the sun acts powerfully upon them.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the health of
+the plants. By such means they will remain longer in bloom, and will be
+more enjoyable for parties inspecting them.
+
+Camellias.--Continue to encourage the growth of those that have done
+flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent syringings, and by
+a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any have made their growth,
+and have formed their blossom-buds, they will require more light and
+less moisture for the future.
+
+Cinerarias.--To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is
+necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for want
+of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful, slight
+shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the day, to
+prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty of air to be
+given when the weather is mild.
+
+Fuchsias.--Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture, they
+will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into their
+blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Top and syringe frequently all such plants as are
+growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it in
+due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance) may be
+given to plants that are well established with roots and showing their
+trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for each plant to
+develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading only when there is
+a fear of scorching from the usual sudden sunbursts of April weather.
+Ply the syringe every fine evening to refresh the plants, and to
+keep down insects, until the flowers expand, when syringing should be
+discontinued.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth. Allow
+no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist atmosphere. Give
+air when the thermometer indicates 90 deg.. Continue to shift Gesneras,
+Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants, as they require it.
+The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias,
+Phaiuses, Sobralias, Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now
+be growing freely, and will therefore require a considerable amount of
+atmospheric moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little
+management in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside
+shading, and will give an additional feature of interest to the house.
+The plants on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very
+frequent syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants
+in bloom may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a
+drier atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--When they begin to change they will require free exposure to
+light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour; and, at the same
+time, a diminution in the supply of water. Carefully examine all curled
+leaves, and destroy the grubs they contain. If the trees are very
+luxuriant, and are making strong foreright shoots, stop them to within a
+few buds of the main branch.
+
+Figs.--Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they are
+swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and thin out
+any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely.
+
+Melons.--Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in very hot
+weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession crops.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--When the fruit in the early house has gone
+through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should take
+place; the borders--if inside, or out, or both--should be copiously
+supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a weak habit, from
+poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be necessary. Syringings to
+be given twice a-day--early in the morning and at shutting-up time. The
+night temperature to be no more than 50 deg.; but during the day it may
+range to 85 deg., if accompanied with air in liberal quantities.
+
+Pine Apples.--Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when
+they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist
+atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn out
+the plants, if preferred.
+
+Strawberries.--They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65 deg.
+to 70 deg. by day, and 55 deg. to 60 deg. by night; succession crops
+rather cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems,
+and thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of
+runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air.
+
+Vines.--Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few berries
+may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the time of
+their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature--about 75 deg. by day
+and 60 deg. by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in course
+of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In later
+houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the heat be
+moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all favourable
+opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near the light.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove,
+forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming
+season, will require particular care to be taken in the application of
+water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to stop,
+prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due time. Stir
+the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply fresh soil, to
+maintain the plants in good health.
+
+Azaleas, Chinese.--Supply them liberally with water at their roots
+during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from injuring
+the bloom.
+
+Calceolarias.--The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in a
+gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be grown in a
+cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being too much drawn.
+Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping the plants well down
+in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets from the stem. Cuttings
+taken off now will root readily in a gentle bottom heat.
+
+Camellias.--Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect the
+young leaves.
+
+Fuchsias.--Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use the
+syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be long-jointed, to
+produce uniform and bushy plants.
+
+Heaths.--Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded plants
+that are now in bloom, or approaching that state.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late
+blooming should now be stopped.
+
+Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian.--Treat as advised for _Azaleas_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly increase
+the temperature. Shade with tiffany, or close-meshed netting, in bright
+sunny weather; removing it early in the afternoon. Water liberally all
+that are making free growth. Repot any that may require it as soon as
+they have fairly commenced their growth. Continue to give liberal shifts
+to the free-growing young stock of stove plants, slightly shading for
+a few hours in hot weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and
+producing a kindly humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots,
+&c.
+
+Begonias.--Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful tribe of
+plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the adornment of the
+conservatory.
+
+Clerodendrons.--Encourage by a moist heat.
+
+Climbers.--Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies of
+water, if in pots.
+
+Gardenias.--They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung linings
+is most congenial to them.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Pot bulbs for late flowering.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty of
+air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in tubs, or
+pots, to become dry.
+
+Figs.--The same as last week.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--Keep the leading shoots regularly tied in, and
+pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones.
+
+Pine Apples.--It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or have
+already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit, that more
+air may be admitted to them than to the others more advanced, to produce
+a more robust growth, and to avoid the necessity of using stakes to
+support the fruit. Air to be admitted freely to the succession plants at
+every favourable opportunity.
+
+Strawberries (in pots).--Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather dry
+atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure flavour.
+When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and the
+atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid currents of
+frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass according to the
+demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has been picked to the open
+air till well hardened off. Give them the protection of a cold pit for a
+time, as they are invaluable in open-air plantations.
+
+Vines.--Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on every
+favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the morning before
+the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed vapour, which
+would affect them injuriously, from settling on the bunches. Attend to
+stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots, tying in leaders, &c.,
+in the later houses. Remove the top dressing from the outside border, to
+allow the increasing power of the sun to act beneficially upon it.
+
+
+
+
+MAY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger pots;
+and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose habit of
+growth, to make them compact and bushy.
+
+Azaleas.--As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to make
+their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them occasionally
+with manure water, and shade for a short time in the middle of the day
+when the sun is powerful.
+
+Calceolarias.--Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade
+those in bloom.
+
+Cinerarias.--When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the
+development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame.
+
+Climbers.--Keep all neatly trained.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The late-flowering sorts, or such as
+have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another season,
+may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as require it must be
+shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular attention being paid that they
+do not get dry at the root.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such as
+are wanted to flower late.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in
+correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early in
+the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice stove
+plants, and keep all free from insects.
+
+Achimenes.--Pot off.
+
+Begonias.--Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, pruning in any
+straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them close,
+and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing. Keep
+them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to expand. The
+following are good sorts:--Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina, Fuchsioides,
+Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma.
+
+Gloxinias.--Repot where necessary.
+
+Succulents.--Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited into
+vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and moisture.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--Temperature 65 deg. to 70 deg. by day and 50 deg. at night,
+and give plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold.
+
+Figs.--Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use the
+syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in the
+afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening, the
+syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier; but, as
+there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water must not
+be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening, as it would
+endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more sparingly.
+
+Melons.--Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is safely
+set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure water. Let
+swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the light.
+
+Peaches.--Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both increase
+the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom of the tree.
+The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the same purpose, and
+to keep down insects. Air and light to be admitted, to give flavour and
+colouring to the ripening fruit.
+
+Pines.--The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be treated
+with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot water, or both
+combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in foliage and growth,
+with the caution that it be given in a warm, clear state, and not too
+strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm afternoons, and close up with
+a temperature of 85 deg. or 90 deg.; giving air again towards evening.
+When indications of ripening by changing colour appear, desist from the
+use of the syringe, and give them no further supplies at the root.
+
+Strawberries.--When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a frame
+where a free admission of air can be given.
+
+Vines.--Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next
+year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of pot
+room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some of
+the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as they
+advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and
+other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a brisk
+day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of blooming,
+and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction to a
+night-temperature of 65 deg. or 68 deg., to suit the other varieties.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid
+atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted.
+Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them,
+before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for bedding
+out, and let them remain for a short time under the protection of a cold
+frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at night with mats, or other
+such protecting materials. This gradually-hardening-off will better
+enable them to withstand unfavourable weather, if it should occur after
+they are planted out.
+
+Azaleas.--All irregularities of growth should be corrected by pruning.
+We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning on such
+plants; they had been cut in severely last season by removing strong,
+straggling branches of old wood, to give some a spherical and others
+a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was reduced, the plant fresh
+potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the peat soil rammed as hard as
+it was possible to make it; then watered, and introduced to heat. The
+plants treated in that manner are now covered with bloom, and in a high
+state of vigour.
+
+Heaths.--Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Some of them of weak growth, and which naturally
+make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending down the
+branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string attached to the
+rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the plant at its base is
+hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of the sap will induce an
+increased supply of shoots. Pick off the seed-pods as the plants go out
+of bloom. Cut back and arrange the shoots in the best manner, to produce
+compact growth.
+
+Pelargoniums.--All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross habit,
+will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure water. For
+that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and to one peck
+add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When taking it for use
+draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering twice a week. Give air
+freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants overhead till the flowers
+expand, when syringing should be discontinued. As the petals are apt to
+drop very soon in hot weather, it is recommended to touch the centre
+of the flower with a camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum
+water, which will stick the petals together and prolong the blooming.
+Such is the general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such plants
+as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent attention
+to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently, to regulate
+their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of trouble and
+confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as Brugmansias, Clerodendrons,
+Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias, and those winter-flowering plants
+_Euphorbia jaquiniflora_ and the _Gesnera bulbosa_. Where there is only
+one house in which to grow Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must
+be made to suit the natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady
+woods of the East, and those which inhabit high and airy regions in the
+Western hemisphere. To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free
+circulation of air during the early part of the day, with an abundance
+of atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a
+high degree of temperature.
+
+Achimenes.--They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded
+situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The shoots to
+be staked out neatly.
+
+Gesneras to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light.
+
+Gloxinias.--The same as _Achimenes_.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is
+ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their fruit. Keep
+them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little value.
+
+Figs.--Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid
+wetting the fruit when it begins to soften.
+
+Melons.--Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the
+linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep the
+foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be produced.
+When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in them with a
+little assistance from dung heat at bottom.
+
+Peaches.--Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees, the
+fruit of which are ripening.
+
+Pines.--Continue the previous instructions in the management of the
+plants in the different stages of growth.
+
+Vines.--Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good time.
+Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of _Muscats_,
+_West's St. Peter's_, and other shy setters. Be sure that inside borders
+are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient quantities to
+thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn
+decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and
+water.
+
+Azaleas.--Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely
+potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure.
+
+Camellias.--Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat amongst
+all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the supply of
+water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from flagging, will induce
+the production of blossom-buds.
+
+Epacris.--Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts
+that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath soil,
+rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for some time
+after being newly shifted, require particular attention in watering,
+that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be placed in a
+cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine. The stopping or
+pinching out the points of strong shoots must be regularly attended to
+during their growing season, to establish a uniformity of sturdy growth.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--All that have flowered, and have made
+their season's growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames, to allow
+those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air, sun and light.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at favourable
+opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very freely, and
+should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to stopping, training,
+&c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot room, and allow them
+all the sunshine they will bear without scorching; also, allow them
+sufficient space for the development of their foliage. Plenty of
+moisture is now requisite to encourage a free growth in Orchids, to get
+their pseudo-bulbs firm, well nourished, and ripened in good time.
+Free ventilation in favourable weather and a slight shading in bright
+sunshine are also requisites for their healthy growth.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even to
+the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather. Fires may
+be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very cold.
+
+Figs.--Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth;
+discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They
+frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots.
+
+Melons.--If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants, they
+will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is swelling
+off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants overhead, and to
+shut up early every fine afternoon with a good heat. Lay the fruit on a
+tile or piece of slate.
+
+Peaches.--When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen, admit
+air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the lights
+entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct influence of
+the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained. Continue to stop
+all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young wood. Some persons
+lay in plenty of young wood to select from in winter pruning; but
+fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over the tree, is best
+attained by the judicious and successive thinning of useless shoots
+during their growing season. Continue to tie in the shoots of the late
+houses.
+
+Pineries.--When the repotting of the plants has recently taken place it
+will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright sunshine,
+for a few days; but for the general stock shading should be dispensed
+with as much as possible--as short, stiff leaves and sturdy growth are
+best attained by judicious airings and humidity. Do not water much at
+the root immediately after repotting. Maintain a brisk bottom heat to
+the succession plants. Admit plenty of air during favourable weather.
+
+Vineries.--As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is
+advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to retain
+and to preserve with the greatest care the principal leaves--as the
+good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition of the tree for
+the ensuing season will depend upon the number and healthy state of the
+principal leaves.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a
+liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight
+shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days.
+
+Azaleas, Chinese.--When done blooming, they succeed best in a close pit,
+kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the day. If
+they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery, or in any
+other large house where they can stand at a distance from the glass
+without shading.
+
+Balsams and Cockscombs.--Promote their growth by shifting them into
+larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the glass,
+and heat.
+
+Camellias to be treated as advised for _Azaleas_.
+
+Geraniums.--If any remain after the flower-garden masses are furnished,
+they should be potted and treated with every attention as to watering,
+&c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow freely, to be
+stopped, to make bushy plants. _Calceolarias_, _Fuchsias_, _Petunias_,
+_Verbenas_, &c., treated in a similar manner, will be useful as a
+reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants that are now in bloom, and to
+fill up vacancies as they occur in the beds and borders.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Many being now in full growth will
+require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather. Many
+fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering; for
+if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours to
+restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Ornamental stove plants--such as Brugmansias, Centradenias,
+Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras,
+Justicias, Poinsettias, &c., to be supplied with clear liquid manure,
+and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the free-growing
+plants will require shifting occasionally. The great object should be
+to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to secure luxuriant
+foliage at the right season, when there will be more time for the wood
+to be properly matured for winter. The syringings to be given early in
+the afternoon, that the plants may get dry before night.
+
+Achimenes.--When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine effect.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is
+ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling their fruit.
+Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free from insects.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck, the
+cuttings should be put in at once.
+
+Cucumbers.--Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for
+ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the ball of
+earth is well soaked with water before planting.
+
+Figs.--Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with
+abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is
+ripening.
+
+Peaches.--Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to the
+ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether from
+the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the inside
+borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour that arises
+may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if dry, should also
+be watered as far as the roots extend, and then mulched, to prevent
+evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the early-forced trees have
+naked branches, some of the earliest-made wood may be taken from the
+trees, and buds inserted from it in the barren parts. Buds inserted
+now may start into growth in July, and be stopped when about six inches
+long, to get the wood well ripened.
+
+Pines.--A bottom heat from 80 deg. to 85 deg. must be kept up to the
+plants intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where
+practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to remain
+in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with water, and
+occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth of the suckers.
+
+Vines.--In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature may be
+allowed to rise to 90 deg., with sun heat, and to decline to 60 deg. at
+night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be covetous
+to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad effects. Stop
+laterals, and use the syringe freely in the afternoons.
+
+
+
+
+JUNE.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Azalea Indica.--Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after they
+have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an abundance of
+water, and syringing freely.
+
+Calceolarias.--Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and remove
+them to a cold frame.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The young stock will now succeed best in
+a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass to be well
+washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes, above the ground
+level.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from
+scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late flowering.
+
+Petunias.--Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating
+pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums,
+Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours for
+the conservatory.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping.
+The Aerides, Dendrobiums, Phalaenopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses,
+Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will now
+require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings. Gongoras,
+Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c., when full of roots in baskets, require
+a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot Cymbidiums, Peristerias,
+&c., starting into growth. Aerides, Vandas, and plants of a similar
+habit, do best when shifted after they have done blooming.
+
+Achimenes.--Continue to shift them, as also _Begonias_, _Clerodendrons_,
+_Gesneras_, &c., as requisite. Remove those in bloom to the greenhouse
+or conservatory.
+
+Climbers.--Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest of
+the plants to an injurious extent.
+
+Succulents.--Shift _Melocacti_, &c., and keep them growing, and near the
+glass.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has been
+lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an occasional supply
+of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing overhead with the
+syringe, or engine, dashing it on with considerable force. They will
+also require to have their wood matured early.
+
+Figs.--Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four or
+five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the second
+crop where too thick.
+
+Melons.--Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals. When the
+fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly moist state,
+and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat should not be
+allowed to sink below 75 deg..
+
+Peaches.--Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and moisture,
+and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and healthy. The
+ripening fruit will require plenty of air.
+
+Pines.--Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to remain in
+a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to start prematurely
+into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that the balls are
+thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give strength to the
+growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of air in the morning
+part of the day; and in the afternoon, to encourage a high degree of
+heat with an abundance of atmospheric moisture. The plants growing in
+open beds to be supplied with a steady bottom heat of from 80 deg. to 85
+deg., and sufficient water to the roots.
+
+Vines.--Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell
+rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in bloom
+to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the fruit is
+set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass of useless
+wood to remain on them.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an
+out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from high
+winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the worms cannot
+get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain should be turned
+round from time to time, that they may not get one-sided; and allow them
+to have plenty of room on all sides. Also, the young plants intended for
+specimens should have their flower-buds picked off, to encourage their
+growth.
+
+Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in bottom
+heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds to be
+picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size before they
+are allowed to bloom.
+
+Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have flowered;
+if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature having
+completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the plants down,
+and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold frame _facing the
+east_, the lights on during the day, with air, and entirely off during
+the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night dews are highly
+beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon produce new shoots, which
+must be taken off and pricked out into small pots in a very open soil,
+and placed in a very gentle bottom heat to strike. When rooted, to be
+shifted into pots of a larger size.
+
+Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be cut
+down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the old soil
+removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a sheltered
+situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in which the
+Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of the soil, in
+rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the row. When planted,
+to be well watered.
+
+Climbers.--The Passifloras, _Mandevilla suaveolens_, _Tecoma
+jasminoides_, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now be
+growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent attention to
+keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to grow in a natural
+manner, merely preventing them from getting too much entangled, or
+growing into masses.
+
+Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an abundance of
+water and frequent syringings. Train them in the desired form, and pinch
+back all weak and straggling shoots.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and be sure
+that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young plants which
+are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where they can be
+exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper foundation for
+a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train the shoots into
+form.
+
+Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and give
+them liquid manure occasionally.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To harden
+the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter flowering, it
+is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such as the shelves
+of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the Stanhopeas will now be
+blooming, should be carefully examined to see that the buds, as they
+protrude, may not be injured by contact with the side. Many stove plants
+and Orchids in flower, if taken to a late vinery, or such intermediate
+house, will thus be prepared, in a short time, for removal to the
+conservatory during the summer.
+
+Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging
+loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either
+hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and
+regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a
+confused mass of wood and foliage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather.
+
+Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a good
+syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to keep down
+insects.
+
+Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks, during
+bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the scorching of
+the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens prematurely, and is, in
+consequence, without flavour.
+
+Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible
+during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the lights
+open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give a good
+watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as previously
+advised.
+
+Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the
+fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow at
+the same time the thermometer to range from 90 deg. to 95 deg.. Shut up
+when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and ply
+the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and
+the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two
+afterwards for the night.
+
+Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they
+advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work to
+be done.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in showery
+weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage. The more
+delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected by some means
+during heavy rains.
+
+Camellias.--When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air night
+and day, with an occasional application of the syringe, keeping the
+paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing, and have formed
+their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the plants overhead, as it
+sometimes starts them into a fresh growth that will be the destruction
+of the flower-buds.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in an
+open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one stem,
+and others to be topped, to make them bushy.
+
+Cinerarias.--In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each parent
+plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour, and to
+place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should be carefully
+gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow pots, or pans, well
+drained with crocks; then some siftings, and over that some light soil,
+with some finer and more sandy on the surface, covering the seeds very
+lightly with the same; and slightly sprinkling, or watering, through a
+very fine rose, and the surface covered with a little moss, to prevent
+evaporation. In a few days the seedlings will be up; then remove the
+moss, and let them remain in the pots, or pans, until they are large
+enough to be handled with safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep
+close for a day or two.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--Give attention to them; as also to tree Carnations,
+_Salvia splendens_, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., for autumn and early winter
+flowering.
+
+Oranges.--The same as advised for _Camellias_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Achimenes.--Repot, as also _Begonias_ and _Gesneras_, for succession of
+late bloom.
+
+Luculia gratissima.--Propagate by cuttings.
+
+Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with fresh
+soil. The _Barkeria spectabilis_, _Epidendrum Skinneri_, the Lycastes,
+_Odontoglossum grande_, &c., will now enjoy the temperature of the
+conservatory.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSE.
+
+Figs.--Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long. Never
+allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now require daily
+attention.
+
+Melons.--Shade them during bright sunshine for a few hours in the middle
+of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum, mixed with
+water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or frame, where
+the sun's rays may fall upon them.
+
+Peaches.--Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so. When
+the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the syringe. Those
+changing for ripening, if the trees are young and vigorous, to have a
+general stopping of the strong shoots all over the higher parts of the
+tree. To keep down red spider, it is advisable to wash the walls, pipes,
+or flues, with sulphur vivum reduced to the consistency of paint; or to
+paint some slates, tiles, or common saucers, with the mixture, and to
+place them in different parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon
+them.
+
+Pines.--If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well
+furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in a
+warm state, may be given with advantage to them.
+
+Strawberries.--As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a
+healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have emitted
+the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out on a rich
+piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or early Potatoes
+have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather is hot, they are
+more convenient to shade, and require less water.
+
+Vines.--When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood
+by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be
+gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and somewhat in
+the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop, not all at
+once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may be allowed to
+produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient room to lay them
+in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood, or shading the old
+leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned, their shoulders to be
+tied out, and every useless shoot to be removed. Keep the Vines in pots
+trained, and exposed to light, and apply weak liquid manure frequently.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants--such as Boronias,
+Epacrises, &c.--will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting in
+rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse plants
+will most probably require shifting, and should receive that attention
+now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a sharp look out
+for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and give the plants, if
+the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice a-week from the syringe
+or garden engine.
+
+New Holland Plants.--If any are retained in the house, let them be
+placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and at
+the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots; but if
+such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in another
+two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open
+ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they are
+cut down.
+
+Scarlet Geraniums.--To prepare them for winter blooming it is advisable
+to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out of doors and
+in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as they appear. To be
+carefully attended with water.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the
+floors, paths, &c., damp. Many of the stove plants--viz., Clerodendrons,
+Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums, Pergularias,
+Stephanotises, &c.--may be removed to the conservatory, where the
+flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a longer period
+than if they had remained in the stove.
+
+Euphorbias.--Propagate _jacquiniaeflora_ and _fulgens_, and grow them
+on a successional system of culture for furnishing the conservatory and
+stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Keep up a succession in various stages of growth, and
+place another batch of tubers in a pan.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in houses
+where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere cool and
+moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the engine, to keep
+down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy.
+
+Cherries.--When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit has
+been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely open.
+Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine. When the
+plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard bottom on
+the north side of a wall or fence.
+
+Melons.--Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without it
+a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most injurious
+effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the plants overhead
+occasionally.
+
+Peaches.--Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while the
+fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning, to
+prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early in the
+afternoon.
+
+Pines.--Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and give
+attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due time. By
+such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be secured for the
+fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants swelling their fruit to
+be also favoured with a high temperature, a moist atmosphere, and plenty
+of water, and occasionally manure water at the root. If worm-casts
+appear in any of the pots, water with lime-water in a clear state.
+
+Vines.--As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the ripe
+bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur must
+be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the use of the
+syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen. Check the growth
+of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final thinnings to the latest
+Grapes; and as they are frequently required for winter use, a good
+thinning should be given, as crowded bunches and berries will not keep
+late in the season.
+
+
+
+
+JULY.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the conservatory
+should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure. Give all the air
+possible at this season, both night and day, and keep the house as neat
+and clean as possible. If it contains many tender stove plants, shut it
+up for an hour while the sun is on it in the evening, so as to produce a
+more genial atmosphere for them.
+
+Achimenes.--Encourage them, as also _Clerodendrons_, &c., to grow and to
+prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them with liquid
+manure, taking particular care not to give it too strong, especially at
+first.
+
+Cinerarias.--Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should also
+be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers for the
+purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they have made
+fresh growth.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Propagate some for blooming in small pots.
+
+Heaths.--Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become
+unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds--such as
+the _ventricosa_, &c.--do best in a sheltered situation in the open
+air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the
+woolly-leaved--such as _Masonii_, &c.--and hardwooded varieties delight
+in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for protection as
+necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted in the spring, and,
+if necessary, pot them without delay; but if they require to be cut in,
+to make them bushy, it will be best to let them break afresh before they
+are repotted.
+
+Leschenaultias.--If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to be
+repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times, and
+abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that were
+potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require more pot
+room.
+
+Ixoras.--Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air both
+night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue stopping
+them for the season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cherries.--When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in
+tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy quarter,
+to make their wood for next season's bearing.
+
+Figs.--Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up their
+second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be useful. Pinch
+out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long. It should be a
+practice to manage the trees during the summer that nothing more than a
+slight thinning out should be wanted at the winter pruning.
+
+Melons.--Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out the
+shoots, stopping, &c.
+
+Peaches and Nectarines.--When all the fruit is gathered, and the wood
+seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite off, and
+place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to be given to
+the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop in succession
+many of the strong shoots about the period the last swelling commences.
+Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in the morning and again in
+the evening.
+
+Pines.--Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession plants, and
+during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every open space with
+moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants becoming brown. If such a
+practice be regularly adopted during hot, bright sunny weather, shading
+will seldom or never be necessary. Be at the same time particular in
+maintaining a mild, genial bottom heat.
+
+Vines.--The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept dry and
+well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention to keep a
+regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air. _Muscats_ very
+frequently require fires during the night and on wet, cold days.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in the
+middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the foliage; and
+never to be watered overhead.
+
+Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have finished
+their growth.
+
+Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very large
+heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the flowers are
+formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of one-half rich loam,
+one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and supplied with as much
+liquid manure and moist heat as possible.
+
+Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air
+and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages with
+clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and evening
+overhead.
+
+Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they will
+flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or rotten dung.
+They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be subjected to a
+moist heat of not less than 75 deg..
+
+Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When
+watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball
+is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is again
+completely dry.
+
+Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and
+liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly sticked,
+so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in presenting a
+large mass of flowers to the eye at once.
+
+Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as
+advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down. After
+the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the most
+forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out, and repot
+into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and placing them in
+a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again; after which freely
+expose them to the weather until heavy rains in autumn, or the approach
+of frost, renders it necessary to house them for the winter.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to remove
+filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in standing in
+corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange frequently, as
+it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the plants and a pleasing
+variety in the house.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is advisable to
+keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat. Strike cuttings of
+choice sorts for winter bearing.
+
+Melons.--The same as advised for _Cucumbers_, as they both delight in
+plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give them
+good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up early
+on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, and the
+plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never allow any to
+fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears, apply lime to the
+parts affected. Old plants cut back should be stimulated to grow freely.
+
+Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those
+from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal
+waterings at the roots and by syringings.
+
+Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90 deg. to 95 deg. by day and from
+70 deg. to 75 deg. by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing
+plants and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the
+pots.
+
+Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and day as
+soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully ripened,
+in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at a good heat.
+Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up the bunches, and
+maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty of air, but do not
+syringe the bunches.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought
+into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at
+every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house dry.
+The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. Some
+judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants, that
+they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by drought
+in hot sunny days.
+
+The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them
+sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other
+considerations will permit.
+
+Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy
+compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather lumpy
+character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority. Particular
+attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially to the crock
+at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it matters but
+little how much depth of drainage material rests upon it, the soil will
+soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the final shift should be
+given in good time to those intended to flower in the autumn.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal parts of
+peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small portion of sand.
+Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the
+pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the compost,
+passed through a fine seive. After the pot has been gently struck on the
+potting-bench to settle the soil, the surface must then be made level
+with a flat piece of wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or
+saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly over the surface, do not cover with
+soil, and water with a fine rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and
+be kept shaded from the sun.
+
+Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is
+generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from
+me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat
+containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and
+also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot and
+frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted out
+in the open ground.
+
+Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the adornment
+of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in fibrous peat,
+broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young plants to be
+frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the shoots while
+growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those again to be stopped
+until the plants have attained a size sufficient to warrant their
+blooming.
+
+Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in
+bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over,
+to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature their
+growth.
+
+Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the
+summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it has
+attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can be
+easily formed into a neat, compact specimen.
+
+Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes,
+Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent
+attention as to watering, shifting, &c.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove plants
+intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at all times;
+with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur, the humidity
+that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be dissipated by
+a free circulation of air when bright weather returns. Keep a free
+circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour to supply an
+abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day; and
+dispense with shading as much as possible by using it only during a few
+hours of the hottest part of the day.
+
+Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them neatly
+tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give them
+a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe them
+frequently overhead.
+
+Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month is the
+most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish to grow fine
+specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they may
+not require to be shifted for several years, as then the plants grow
+much finer and flower better than when annually shifted. Now, as soon
+as they have done flowering they commence growing, when they should
+have plenty of heat and moisture until they have completed their
+pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced to a comparative state of
+rest by gradually withholding water until they show flower; then to
+be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the
+root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to grow. As all
+the plants belonging to this genus push their flowers downwards, it is
+advisable to have them elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers
+can get through and show themselves to advantage.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are
+swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the
+foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist.
+Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop ripens,
+curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before they reach
+maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be regularly supplied
+with water, and some liquid manure added about once a week to assist the
+second crop. Keep down red spider by the application of sulphur in the
+manner so frequently advised of late. Give the fruit that is ripening
+the benefit of the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that shade
+it.
+
+Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a comparatively
+cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit daily, and gather
+before it is overripe and loses its flavour.
+
+Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of the
+advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of air and
+sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely to
+the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but a
+circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at the
+same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions to
+afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by frequent
+syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other available surface
+until the fruit begins to change colour, when the atmosphere and soil
+should be kept rather dry, to improve the fruit's flavour. See to the
+stools from which fruit have been cut. Earth them up, so as to cause
+suckers to strike root. Give them a brisk bottom heat, and proper
+supplies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance for the
+suckers from the declining strength of the parent plant as long as
+possible. It is now a good time to start a lot into fruit, as they will
+have two or three most favourable months for swelling, and will come
+in at a season when they are in very general request. Keep the bark-bed
+moderately moist, as in that state it will retain its heat much longer
+than if it is allowed to get dry.
+
+Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as it
+is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too far
+advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep longer
+than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do not allow
+plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, which, despite
+every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the berries and spoil
+them. The outside borders of the late houses should be watered and
+mulched, if the weather continue dry.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs, Fuchsias,
+Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan Lilies. Strict
+attention must be paid to all plants in these structures that they
+do not suffer from the want of water. Continue to stop over-luxuriant
+growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens. On the evenings of hot, dry
+days, after the plants have been watered, give them a slight syringing,
+or sprinkling, over the leaves, and also the ground upon which they are
+standing.
+
+Aotus gracillimus.--When done blooming, to be cut down close to the pot.
+
+Aphelexis and Helichrysums.--When past their best state, cut the
+flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady place
+until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be repotted.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf
+stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out in
+rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago.
+
+Cinerarias.--Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow seed.
+
+Fuchsias.--Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings.
+
+Leschenaultias.--When they are going out of bloom, or past their best,
+remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool place to
+start again.
+
+Kalosanthes.--When done blooming, the flower-stems and all straggling
+growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens for another
+season.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as advised
+lately.
+
+Pimelea spectabilis.--When that and the other kinds have done blooming,
+to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place to break.
+
+Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the _Pimeleas_.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as visible.
+The _Gishurst Compound_ is worthy of a trial. Follow former instructions
+as to moisture and air.
+
+Ixoras.--When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be started
+in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended on baskets,
+or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the roots, and
+frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little fire-heat applied in
+the afternoon will be of service to them.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing towards
+maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the atmosphere should
+be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely every fine day. Keep the
+foliage clean and healthy, and clear from insects, and do not allow the
+young shoots to get crowded.
+
+Melons.--Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep the
+plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root, with an
+abundance of air in fine weather.
+
+Pines.--Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting and
+succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the application
+of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by saturation. The
+walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept constantly moist, and
+frequent syringings to be given to the young stock. Continue all other
+routine operations according to former directions.
+
+Strawberries.--Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong, rich
+loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have made roots
+enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in small pots, to
+be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer to lay them in their
+fruiting-pots. The principal object should be, to attain plants of a
+moderate growth, well matured and rested before forcing time.
+
+Vines.--The early houses, when they have been cleared of their fruit,
+and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed and
+repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free exposure
+to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be encouraged to
+swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure water, and by being
+carefully thinned, more especially if they are wanted to keep late.
+A little fire-heat will be necessary in unfavourable weather, with an
+abundance of air day and night.
+
+
+
+
+AUGUST.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water.
+Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and exhausted
+stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the autumn is fast
+approaching, the sooner the new growths are encouraged the better, that
+they may have sufficient time to mature them. All greenhouse plants will
+now be benefited by exposure to the natural atmosphere: the dews
+are more refreshing and invigorating than artificial moisture or the
+application of the syringe.
+
+Finish _potting_ all specimen plants; for if left until later in the
+season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with roots,
+and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of water at the
+roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that of surrounding it
+with fresh soil for months when the roots should be in a comparatively
+dormant state.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Continue to head them down, and to propagate the
+cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the open
+ground.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during warm
+weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias, and other
+such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them betimes.
+The _AEschynanthus grandiflorus_, _Aphelandra cristata_, _Eranthemum
+pulchellum_, Justicias, and any others that are intended for the
+decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part of winter,
+should be carefully looked over, and shifted without delay if they want
+more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly, and to be exposed to
+as much sun as they will bear without scorching the foliage, to induce
+stocky growth. Nothing is more injurious to stove plants than to keep
+them growing late in the season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the
+wood, which will render them more liable to injuries in winter and more
+unproductive of flowers the following season.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Melons.--The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept rather
+dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable weather. A
+steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops.
+
+Peaches.--If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced houses,
+it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible, that the air,
+rain, and dews may have free access to act both beneficially on the
+trees and to keep down red spider. In those houses which have been
+treated as advised in former Calendars, the principal object now should
+be to get the wood properly ripened. The late houses to be treated in
+a similar manner when the fruit is gathered. Where the trees in
+peach-houses have been recently planted, and are not yet in a bearing
+state, the shoots will require to be trained carefully, and insects to
+be kept down.
+
+Pines.--The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended to
+with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate the whole
+body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is moist while
+the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest successions for
+early forcing next season.
+
+Strawberries.--Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to
+force in pots until you have a sufficient number.
+
+Vines.--Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a little
+fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are better
+flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is delayed to
+a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray laterals that
+begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little at a time, as
+disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to fruit trees. The
+young Vines in pots to have every attention, to secure as much growth
+and healthy vigour as possible while the growing season lasts. Allow all
+young planted Vines to ramble freely without stopping them so closely,
+as is frequently practised. Before wasps and flies do much mischief
+to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass should be fixed over the top lights and
+front lights that are opened for the admission of air. Remove decayed
+berries as soon as observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit
+dry and free from dust.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Bulbs.--The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made as
+soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each season;
+to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be potted
+in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in a dry
+situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan or coal
+ashes.
+
+Camellias.--The large, old specimens that have set their flower-buds to
+be carefully supplied with water; for if they are allowed to get too dry
+at the roots they are apt to drop their buds. Young vigorous plants, on
+the contrary, will require to be watered rather sparingly, to prevent
+them making a second growth.
+
+Cinerarias.--Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to
+watering, &c., cause a check to their growth.
+
+Climbers.--To have a succession late in the season when flowers
+become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose, more
+especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises.
+
+New Holland Plants.--If any have been standing out of doors for some
+time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender varieties to
+the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the danger and risk
+of exposure to wet or windy weather.
+
+Soils.--Now is a favourable time to collect soils of different sorts for
+future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters will become
+evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould, decomposed sheep,
+deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old Cucumber, Melon, and other
+such soils, to be put in separate heaps in a shed, or any other dry
+place, protected from drenching rains. Each sort to be numbered, or
+named, that no mistake may occur when wanted.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied
+with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other stove
+plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the water to
+be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up early in the
+afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be made in the
+daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air may be given to
+the plants.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed early,
+for the benefit of the second crop of fruit.
+
+Melons.--Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden supply
+at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and become
+worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may receive the
+benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the sun's rays till it
+is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water to the late crops, and
+thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to paint the interior of the
+frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with slight syringings and shutting
+up early while the sun shines upon it, will keep down insects.
+
+Mushrooms.--Collect some very short stable-litter and horse-droppings,
+and turn them over frequently with the addition of a small portion of
+turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When moderately dry, to be
+packed on shelves or in boxes, and be well-beaten down in layers four or
+five inches thick, till the bed is the required thickness--from a foot
+to eighteen inches; for success will depend in a great measure upon the
+solidity of the bed. To be spawned when there is a brisk heat.
+
+Pines.--If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been added,
+the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any approach to a
+burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots, &c. Fruit recently
+started and swelling off to have every encouragement for the next two
+months. Shut up early, to secure a strong amount of solar heat. Keep all
+the growing stock warm and moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day.
+
+Vines.--The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe, would be
+benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights are required to
+remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all laterals kept down.
+When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and when the weather is wet
+or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied, will expel damps, and be in
+other respects very beneficial to them. Stop all useless growths in the
+late houses; do not remove the leaves to expose the fruit to the sun,
+unless they are very thick indeed, as they are the principal agents by
+which nutriment is carried to the berries.
+
+Vines in Pots.--When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the
+north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to keep
+the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will protect them
+from sudden changes.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or
+in pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms,
+preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and washing
+all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all crevices and
+corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting there. When by
+scrubbing, brushing, &c., you have brought everything to the ground, let
+no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish, &c., off the ground,
+and also out of the house. If painting and glazing are necessary, the
+sooner they are done the better, leaving the house entirely open for
+three weeks or a month, that the effluvium from white lead, which is
+prejudicial to plants, may pass off before the lights are put on again.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants
+that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as soon
+as they have filled their pots with roots.
+
+Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the
+bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there is
+a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will allow of
+the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot.
+
+Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be
+necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally--and especially
+that of all those whose period of excitement is continued over a certain
+portion of the autumn--so arranged and circumstanced as to secure its
+perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have it "well ripened." For
+that purpose it is necessary to avoid the application of moisture
+beyond what is necessary to prevent a decided check in the growth of the
+plants, to expose them to the influence of light, by not suffering them
+to crowd or overhang each other, and to prevent from what cause soever
+the too sudden declension of the average temperature to which they are
+exposed.
+
+The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have plenty of moisture and
+heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and then
+it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the supply of
+water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house.
+
+Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may be separated or
+potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in baskets.
+Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts, and peg them
+altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the summit place
+your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another plant, and with
+four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go where they please
+in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for sustenance upon the
+atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Peaches.--It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off the
+early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing towards a
+state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely indispensable,
+but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the lights are off or
+on, attention may now be given to the repairs of glass or woodwork
+where necessary, and to finish with a coat of paint and whitewashing, if
+possible.
+
+Pines.--The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over in
+hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water. Continue
+to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the parent plants,
+as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if left out of the
+ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung pits, as all Pine
+plants, in whatever situation, will require a lively bottom heat of 90
+deg..
+
+Vines.--The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and rather
+early (about four o'clock), in order to dispense, if possible, with
+fires, giving air by seven o'clock in the morning, and increasing it
+abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished at intervals, in
+accordance with the state of the weather.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that they
+do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to be
+given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry
+towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.
+
+Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a
+cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that have
+been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or frame, where
+they can be protected from heavy rains.
+
+Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut down are
+about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the roots slightly
+trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as advised early in
+July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; when potted,
+to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, and shaded until they have
+made fresh roots, when they should be placed out in an open situation to
+grow firm and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots; and to be placed
+on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow
+the seed immediately it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of
+any other perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual
+increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is still
+essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed with,
+except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given to the
+Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, Dipladenias,
+and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil of large
+specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.
+
+Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in a
+mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf
+mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom
+heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sunshine.
+
+Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their growth.
+Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing freely in
+pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft
+water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or other
+such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good soaking of
+water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry atmosphere is
+necessary to ripen the fruit.
+
+Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are growing
+in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or renewed, to
+produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker is apt to set
+in and destroy the plants.
+
+Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as
+recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be made
+very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable
+when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh loam
+at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it as firm as
+possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much better quality
+than if partly-exhausted soil is used.
+
+Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them
+occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The growth
+of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, &c., to
+be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an
+abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air to the
+young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of the atmosphere,
+to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against winter.
+Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any
+plants recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled
+overhead every afternoon, and the house closed early. The sprinkling
+will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin
+to grow.
+
+Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the
+ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a little
+fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late
+vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more
+especially when the external temperature ranges below 50 deg..
+
+
+
+
+SEPTEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Balsams.--Give them a good watering when they show indications of
+drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation appears,
+as saturation will be death to them.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When potted, to
+be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the early part of the
+month, and covered with some porous material--such as coal ashes, old
+spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other material that will serve
+to keep the roots not only cool and un-acted on by atmospheric changes,
+but which, from being moderately damp, will not abstract moisture from
+the roots, but keep them uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs,
+if obtained now, may be had in flower at various periods throughout the
+winter and early spring. _Amaryllis Johnsoni_, _vittata_, and many
+other varieties, are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and
+orange-flowered species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the
+varieties of _Sparaxis tricolor_, are desirable plants that may be
+easily bloomed by gentle forcing.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Pot off seedlings into small pots, and keep
+them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the best kinds;
+they will strike readily in a common frame.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--They should now be stopped for the last time, to
+produce a late succession of bloom.
+
+Climbers.--Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or stakes
+may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from the rim of
+the pot upwards.
+
+Fuchsias.--To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young wood,
+trimming the plants to handsome shapes. If placed or plunged in a little
+bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming till Christmas.
+
+Lilium lancifolium.--Supply them cautiously with water, as advised for
+Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong their
+beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the foot of a
+south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be given sparingly
+until their tops show signs of decay, when they may be laid on
+their sides till potting time. The same treatment is recommended for
+_Gladioli_ and plants of like habit.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are
+finishing or have completed their season's growth in the coolest part
+of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air, and rather
+cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free growth should
+be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but very little air and
+a liberal supply of water during very fine sunshiny weather.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object should
+be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is necessary to be
+given by exposing them to light and air, and preserving the leaves from
+injury, as it is upon their healthy action that the future crop depends.
+
+Cherries.--Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early forcing,
+to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy, situation, to
+continue the regular root action, upon which much of their future
+success will depend.
+
+Figs.--Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of fruit is
+ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early forcing, to
+be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+Peaches.--If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have performed
+their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with sulphur. Trees
+in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries.
+
+Pines.--Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth where
+it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied occasionally
+with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be supplied with
+water at the roots, as inattention to that particular during hot weather
+is very likely to cause some of the plants to fruit prematurely.
+
+Strawberries.--The stock intended for forcing to be carefully attended
+to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when necessary, to
+be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air, and a little weak
+liquid manure, will assist to produce stout healthy plants for forcing.
+
+Vines.--When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house as
+cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and expose
+the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as possible.
+Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes
+occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest out-door
+greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to be carefully
+examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the soil or drainage
+of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other indications of
+the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the soil, by carefully
+turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can generally be picked
+out. If they are not visible on the outside of the ball, a small peg
+stuck in will direct particular attention to it until the intruder is
+removed. When staging the plants, a pleasing variety may be introduced
+by placing a few on inverted pots. Sufficient space to be given to
+each plant to allow the air to circulate freely around. If there is
+not sufficient room for all, the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be
+rejected, or wintered in a pit or vinery. When housed, all the air
+possible should be given in fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the
+lights, and only reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in
+the weather take place.
+
+Heliotropes.--Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy state for
+winter flowering.
+
+Mignonette.--Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring blooming.
+
+Pinks.--Pot _Anne Boleyne_ and other sorts, to be well established
+before they are wanted for forcing.
+
+Roses.--Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under
+glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate growth
+and early blooming.
+
+Violets.--Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or leaf
+mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a pit or
+frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early spring.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is
+advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy
+shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70 deg. to
+80 deg., with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas,
+_Epidendrum Skinneri_, Laelias, _Lycaste Skinneri_, and _Odontoglossum
+grande_, to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed
+occasionally. Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except
+such as are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as
+possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening influence
+of the sun.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the atmosphere.
+Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight fires will be
+useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening the fruit; and but
+little syringing and watering will be required from this time forward.
+
+Melons.--Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air,
+shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In whatever
+structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up the bottom
+heat by a gentle fire, or by linings.
+
+Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the air
+night and day, and will, therefore, require but little attention, except
+an occasional washing with the engine, to remove insects and to allow
+the foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a blank
+in the house is to be filled up, it may be done as soon as the crop is
+gathered from the open wall; and the crop to be expected from the same
+tree next season will depend upon the care with which it is removed, as
+there will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the tree to
+make fresh roots, and to get sufficiently established before winter.
+
+Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken by
+giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the plants
+weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient command of
+heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at night and on
+cloudy days.
+
+Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as it
+is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made after
+this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is useful to keep
+the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to be frequently
+and carefully looked over and all tainted berries removed, and the
+foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat is also necessary where
+the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes
+necessary to keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the wood.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as
+possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when
+many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause them to
+produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off
+at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the external air will
+cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally supplied when they
+are first taken into the house, as the dry boards on which they may
+stand, or the elevated situation and free circulation of air will
+occasion a more frequent want of that element than when they stood on
+the moist earth. However, by no means go to the extreme, but give it
+only when evidently necessary.
+
+Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the
+greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth is
+matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at Christmas,
+or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the bloom-buds have
+swelled to a good size, when they will require but very little forcing
+to start them into bloom.
+
+Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the success
+of early forcing depends upon early potting.
+
+Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas.
+
+Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been growing
+freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a rather
+succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked by this
+pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an application
+of sulphur.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence with
+the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be better
+prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the winter
+season.
+
+Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
+shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in a
+compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in a
+soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that they are
+liable to rot off at the base of the stem.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a little
+liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the borders, to
+induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of the wood and an
+early rest.
+
+Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if not
+yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary.
+
+Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still remaining
+in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one end of the
+pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house should then be
+prepared for the best of the succession plants for the second crop next
+summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, although they cannot be
+expected to produce as fine fruit as if earlier in the season, will,
+nevertheless, be found very useful, and should have every attention
+given to them while the season continues favourable. To be placed in the
+warmest corner of the house, and to be supplied when dry with a little
+liquid manure. Continue to grow on the young stock while the weather
+continues favourable; for fine sunny days and moist growing nights are
+all that we can desire. A good portion of solar heat to be secured by
+shutting up early. On cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep
+up the temperature to 70 deg. towards morning.
+
+Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well
+ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much
+fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if, from
+appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at rest, the
+pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the Grapes not yet
+ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air to be given to the
+house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the vapour that ascends, if
+not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will cause the Grapes to become
+mouldy and worthless.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to be
+taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be placed in a
+gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they have made fresh
+roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the dull, dreary months
+of the approaching winter.
+
+American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early spring,
+the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be plunged in
+the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the forcing-house from
+November until February, as they may be required. The most suitable for
+such a purpose are the Azaleas of the _nudiflora_ class with various
+hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_, _Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of
+sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L. thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_,
+Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora Canadense_.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the glass as
+possible, with plenty of air at all favourable opportunities. To be duly
+supplied with water.
+
+Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of the
+buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds, leaving not
+more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the largest and smallest
+to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves, if necessary, to be
+washed clean.
+
+Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias.
+
+Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the
+application of the Gishurst infallible compound.
+
+Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds may be
+sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of sheltering
+them from frost and damp; but if you have no such convenience, it is
+advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. The seed is separated
+most easily from the pulp by bruising the berries amongst dry sand, and
+allowing it to stand in the sun, or in a warm place, until the moisture
+has evaporated, when the seed and sand will be intermixed, and in a fit
+state to be sown.
+
+Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas, and
+give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the weather
+continues favourable.
+
+New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a considerable
+share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be stopped, to maintain
+symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant eye should be kept upon
+them almost daily, to see that neither mildew, green fly, nor other such
+enemies be allowed to injure them.
+
+Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer, the
+sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better. Clean
+the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which they are
+growing.
+
+Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiae, and other such plants to be gradually
+curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the winter and their
+season of rest.
+
+Tropaeolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T.
+tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the season,
+begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to grow slowly
+through the winter; but if there is no appearance of growth--which is
+best for their future success--the roots should be kept dormant, in a
+cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, and protected from mice.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn.
+Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry.
+Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not so
+much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the house.
+Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain a healthy
+atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aerides, Dendrobiums,
+Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the application of a
+high temperature, with much moisture and less shading, to make further
+and sometimes considerable growth.
+
+Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some time
+longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a comparatively dormant
+state by a gradual diminution in the supply of water, and a decrease in
+temperature, with less shading.
+
+Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh
+material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable never
+to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to get too
+far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong fermentation has
+passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in it for some time.
+The temperature to be kept from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with the admission
+of air for several hours daily.
+
+Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived at,
+or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but little
+attention will be necessary, still that little will be required to keep
+them clear of insects and of the leaves as they become sufficiently
+ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. The old surface of the
+soil of those grown in pots to be removed, and the same quantity of
+fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. Remove them without further
+delay, if not already done, as advised in the early part of the month,
+to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted; or if not wanted
+until a sharp frost sets in, they should be protected from its icy
+grasp.
+
+Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
+
+Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening the
+late fruit, they will in some places still require the assistance of a
+good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of
+the day.
+
+Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended for
+Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be planted in the
+place of any that may be worn out. The choice should be made of young
+trees that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had been
+moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after the leaves have dropped,
+be sure not to leave them too crowded; but if the summer pruning, as
+frequently advised, have been properly done, but very little, if any,
+will be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees in the early
+houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them
+gently with a few pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright
+shoots to be removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from
+insects.
+
+Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine management.
+Whilst fine weather continues air may be given liberally; and shut up
+earlier in the afternoon to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants
+swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk temperature, both at
+top and bottom, from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night, allowing it to rise to
+80 deg. on sunny days with a steady bottom heat of about 80 deg.. When
+watering is necessary let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten
+the whole of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted in the
+summer months should now be shifted, if they have grown freely; they
+should then be plunged in a brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or
+pit, from which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any
+remaining suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged
+in a brisk heat in the nursing pit.
+
+Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it is
+intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, that
+sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the buds to
+become more plump and prominent. The border of the early house to be
+thatched with straw, or covered with any other such material, to protect
+it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in some situations to cover
+the borders of the houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late,
+to prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Continue to look
+over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or tainted berries; applying
+gentle fires only when necessary to expel damps, with a free circulation
+of air--as a warm, close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the
+long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as
+the fruit is gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any
+shoots to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared;
+the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue to
+pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and cut out
+every decayed berry.
+
+
+
+
+OCTOBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a portion
+of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants kept supplied
+with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately moist throughout.
+Air to be given every day, and also a portion at night, if the weather
+continue mild.
+
+Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in
+a convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the
+forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time ago, a
+few of them may now be excited into growth.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a
+showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and shaded
+for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the greenhouse,
+and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a fine display.
+
+Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered
+sparingly until they begin to grow.
+
+Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs, that
+a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during winter.
+
+Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants to be
+potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan until wanted
+for forcing.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature to
+decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aerides, Dendrobiums,
+&c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80 deg. by day and 70 deg.
+by night, the Cattleyas will require 10 deg. or 15 deg. less to bring
+them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant excitement they
+will continue to sprout buds from their pseudo-bulbs, which generally
+adds to the size of the plant at the expense of the blooms.
+
+Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also _Gesnera
+zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during winter.
+
+Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by giving
+them larger pots if required.
+
+Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial
+attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest season
+of the year when flowers are scarce.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is necessary
+to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty of top and
+bottom heat.
+
+Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and whose
+leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early rest. A
+seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to trees in pots,
+that they may be in a fit state for forcing early.
+
+Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give flavour to
+the fruit. They will require little or no water after this.
+
+Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the
+open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from the
+nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space allotted to
+them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after being repaired
+and painted, they should be put upon the houses to protect the trees and
+borders from unfavourable weather.
+
+Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to give it
+flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist atmosphere. Water to
+be given to the plants cautiously; every one to be examined before it
+receives any, and manure water to be dispensed with altogether. The heat
+of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing the linings. The crowns and
+suckers that are planted in the tan to have no water; all they require
+is attention in giving air and keeping up the heat.
+
+Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are
+intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would
+injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such
+material had been used over the lights that open in houses containing
+fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken down as little
+mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks. Mice are sometimes
+very troublesome in vineries at this season, and will spoil a whole
+house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. Traps should,
+therefore, be kept set, and every means used to prevent their ingress
+from the garden. Cover the border when the trees are planted outside,
+with a good coat of fern or any other such material before they become
+saturated and chilled by the autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in
+layers, beginning at the front of the border, the whole to be covered
+with a thin layer of good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does
+the straw on stacks.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will
+require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and
+regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, sometimes
+droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises from the roots
+being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the moisture, and
+the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth. This is usually
+brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as soon, therefore, as the
+consequences are observed, the plants should be examined, and sufficient
+water given to wet the ball of earth thoroughly.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a late
+Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid manure
+will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection. If any
+indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of sulphur,
+when the foliage is damp, will banish it.
+
+Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by the
+application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering is over,
+and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be set aside in
+any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept moderately dry.
+
+Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring protection
+to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other structure, as near the
+glass as possible. To be watered regularly; but, like all other plants,
+care must be taken that they do not get too much at any time during the
+winter.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and
+repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in a gentle
+bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the Cypripediums,
+_Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to be supplied
+with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other sorts--such as the
+Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c., that are approaching their
+dormant state--to be accommodated, if possible, with a drier and cooler
+atmosphere. All fast-growing plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas,
+&c.--that require large pots in summer, to be now turned out of their
+pots, the soil to be shaken from them, and repotted into the smallest
+sized pots that will contain them, without pruning the roots much at
+this time.
+
+Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning, more
+especially where they obstruct the light in any material degree. The
+Combretums, Echites, Ipomsaeas, Mandevillas, late-blooming Passifloras,
+Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, &c., which are still growing,
+to be regulated with a more gentle hand, cutting out but little more
+than barren shoots, and drawing the remainder into somewhat closer
+festoons, to allow the more free admission of sunlight into the interior
+of the house.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be making
+progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up a good
+heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable opportunities, to
+get them strong and vigorous against the winter months. Stop mildew by
+dusting the leaves with sulphur.
+
+Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous directions.
+Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a genial
+humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to keep them
+sweet and free from mouldiness.
+
+Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is advisable
+to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent the admission
+of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis, whitewash the flues and
+walls, and make every part of the house clean. Dress the trees with a
+mixture of soft soap and sulphur in hot water; to be well rubbed in with
+a brush or sponge.
+
+Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any decaying
+berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time, and if any
+plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept under the
+Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a little fire heat
+in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. Whatever system of
+pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur, it is advisable, when
+the brown scale is visible, to take off the loose bark, to wash them,
+and the wires and rafters, with soft soap dissolved in hot water, using
+a hard brush, being careful not to injure the buds; afterwards to apply
+hot lime, made to the consistency of thick paint.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The decline of temperature and less watering must go on progressively,
+more especially in dull weather, with free ventilation at all
+favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold, use a little fire-heat
+occasionally during the day, especially where there are many plants in
+bloom, that ventilation may be given to expel damp and stagnant air.
+
+Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to be
+shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots. The
+compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, and one
+part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and will thrive
+tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost during the winter.
+They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal ashes, and kept as near to
+the glass as possible.
+
+Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse,
+be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be given
+carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded by mats,
+or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by free
+exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if they are
+shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed.
+
+Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The soil
+to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks at
+the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant through the
+winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and keeping the
+plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a hotbed frame will
+find it useful to start the seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no
+such convenience may place their pots in a cold frame in a sheltered
+situation, and upon a floor of rough stones overlaid with ashes.
+
+Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter the
+better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should be
+given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at all
+favourable opportunities.
+
+Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the glass
+as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of green fly,
+and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a healthy condition.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot to
+be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy pieces to
+form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the tops and sides
+of these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of some of
+them vegetating than if they had been sown on a level surface where
+the whole of the seed would be subjected to the same kind of treatment,
+which might with ordinary care be either too wet or too dry. The pot
+to be set in a saucer that contains a little water, which will feed the
+whole mass with sufficient moisture without a drop being required on
+the surface of the pot. The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the
+stove where evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do
+not like to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould,
+supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of atmospheric
+moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every second joint,
+and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.
+
+Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is large,
+to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or fence, packed
+in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any other such covering,
+to protect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted for
+forcing.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs
+occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat
+during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in the
+circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves,
+and the destruction of insects.
+
+Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the
+spring; also the Ixiae and Gladioli, and various other Irideae; and
+also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil composed
+of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, or
+substitute for, the peat.
+
+Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as
+specimens in early spring.
+
+Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers
+and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned.
+
+Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be
+of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy
+rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; the principal
+shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless
+ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage a sturdy,
+short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in
+one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the
+second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length before
+stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they are not
+sufficiently strong to carry a crop.
+
+Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves.
+If the lights are still off any of the early houses the sooner they are
+put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.
+
+Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60
+deg. to 65 deg. at night, with an increase during the day in accordance
+with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy,
+foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity
+to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak
+and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession plants that
+are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small
+quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will
+require covering with mats at night: when covered let every other light
+be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass off. When the covering is
+off it will escape through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all
+opportunities for giving a little air. If it can be done every day, so
+much the better for the health of the plants.
+
+Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for
+some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature wood
+cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If the houses
+are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst decaying
+berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for
+holding on for a long time.
+
+
+
+
+NOVEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it
+is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth free
+from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire to
+be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free
+circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the afternoon,
+will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of ordinary
+frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night
+coverings, if possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat.
+
+American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy
+Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required for
+winter forcing.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent the
+flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the
+leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their beauty depends
+upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of
+leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be
+their ornamental appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory.
+
+Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward a
+shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for cutting
+where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the flowers like
+the single varieties.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric
+heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and
+unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The
+thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the
+day exceed 60 deg., with a fall of 8 deg. or 10 deg. during the night.
+
+Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of
+easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they
+can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in
+bloom.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the
+linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the
+frames.
+
+Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be
+filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken
+from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken
+to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_
+Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and
+_Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are
+of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly.
+
+Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible,
+to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the
+spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so
+that it may range from 60 deg. to 65 deg.. The winter-fruiting plants to
+range 10 deg. higher.
+
+Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the
+house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be
+generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets
+in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful
+hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to
+ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the
+succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines
+have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the
+vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by
+being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut
+up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none
+to succulents and plants in a state of rest.
+
+Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for
+forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of
+importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed
+with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and
+about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to
+plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced
+immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss
+and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c.
+The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted
+early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small
+quantities when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any
+out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or
+five inches of old tan.
+
+Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere
+if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.
+
+Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most
+forward may be accelerated by a little heat.
+
+Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be
+stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the
+pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down
+gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by
+diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more
+liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen
+kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas,
+&c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made
+for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a
+gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as
+closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light
+soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that
+may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied
+with an abundance of light and air.
+
+Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting
+into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal
+ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and
+where they will commence rooting immediately.
+
+Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as
+advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but
+if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The
+trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and
+then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and
+one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. Trees in pots to be shifted,
+or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when
+it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards
+placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves.
+
+Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be
+encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to
+"show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep
+them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their
+fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state
+of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined
+frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and
+other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves
+and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the
+leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no
+water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such
+plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in
+consequence.
+
+Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed
+should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and
+placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by
+boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude
+light and the inclemency of the weather.
+
+Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at
+work is the best place for both.
+
+Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit
+is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from
+anything likely to create mould or damp.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead
+leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever
+they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be
+disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission of
+air.
+
+Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The _A.
+Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be succeeded
+by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other varieties. As
+decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable
+where they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty.
+
+Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid
+state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full and
+prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required early, to be
+forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and
+such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or
+importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light
+situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality
+sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely
+through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and see
+that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid,
+even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require
+attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable
+day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of that
+agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat,
+and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended
+from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the most suitable
+for a picturesque and pleasing effect.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough
+cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of
+Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed.
+
+Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled
+within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber
+or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions.
+To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few days
+until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in
+each pot, and pressed by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a
+week they will be up; to be then thinned out, according to the strength
+of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle
+watering. When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to
+be earthed up as high as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and
+watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become
+too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be
+stopped, to cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The
+plants to be placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese
+Dwarf_ and _Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing.
+
+Figs.--A temperature of about 40 deg. will suit them at present; if
+allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be
+removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.
+
+Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an
+application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of summer
+heat (76 deg.), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose services are
+required before much excitement takes place at top.
+
+Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be
+very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, more
+especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of about 70
+deg., with a steady top temperature of about 60 deg. during the day, and
+about 55 deg. during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively
+comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the temperature to decline
+so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to endanger their
+restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite
+them into a growth that would be immature for want of solar light and
+heat. A moderate application of water will also be necessary.
+
+Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of
+time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly healed
+before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early spring,
+bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing
+should either be placed within the protection of the house appropriated
+to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when
+necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in
+the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off.
+All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All
+weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to
+cause dampness, mildew, or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off
+the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.
+
+Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as
+possible with the admission of light.
+
+Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and
+recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room,
+conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful
+attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable
+occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with
+air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and
+the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in preference to night
+heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate
+fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The
+water to be always tepid when applied to the roots or branches when they
+require it.
+
+New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold
+draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same house
+with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a
+part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from the
+top lights only.
+
+Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for
+out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It
+is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be kept
+clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that
+their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be
+procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle heat.
+The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at once in
+the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames,
+may be made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus.
+
+Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches.
+
+Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of
+bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little attention,
+upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so,
+to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and
+steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter.
+The early nursing-box for young plants should be well supplied with
+linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair.
+
+Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed.
+The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to
+be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the
+temperature of the house.
+
+Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being
+thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and
+tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at
+night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of
+forcing.
+
+Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season
+should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a
+moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with safety.
+When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require
+some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or shutters--to protect
+them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is
+now required at this, that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and
+moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young
+plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to
+exclude the steam from the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts
+of the plants.
+
+Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the
+old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, to
+produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the wood,
+and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with
+a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation,
+and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their
+leaves to be pruned immediately.
+
+
+
+
+DECEMBER.
+
+
+FIRST WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as
+possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or
+rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too high--say
+greenhouse from 50 deg. to 55 deg. by day and from 40 deg. to 45 deg. by
+night; conservatory 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night. Chrysanthemums
+to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early
+Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention
+now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season,
+as the least saturation or interference with the root action will cause
+the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. _Poinsettia
+pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a noble
+ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ and
+_rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at this
+season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the
+other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. _Gesnera
+zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of the leaves
+contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower.
+
+Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants
+it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They can bear a
+good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without sustaining any very
+serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat
+without serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently
+death to the plants. They will require but very little water, especially
+the large specimens, which should be very particularly examined as to
+their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or
+withholding of water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to
+keep the plants from growing.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The
+temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of exciting
+premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to
+purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the
+pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so
+do not loosen the soil so as to injure the roots near the surface. Keep
+every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied
+up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various
+bulbs will now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will
+require but little or no water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is
+advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house,
+by themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove
+temperature to keep them safe and sound.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted.
+
+Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature
+steadily at or near 60 deg.. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every
+three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.
+
+Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture
+of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the main crop
+to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every favourable
+opportunity, with a day temperature from 70 deg. to 75 deg. and from 55
+deg. to 60 deg. at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention.
+Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, admitting a little
+fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being
+injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant
+watching will be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature,
+having materials at hand to assist in case of frost.
+
+Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the Vines
+by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as advised
+last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the atmosphere
+regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood should be syringed
+frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, kept full of water. The
+roots, if outside, to be protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth
+until the buds are fairly swelled. As it is advisable to proceed very
+slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range from 55 deg. to 60
+deg. by day and from 45 deg. to 50 deg. by night, and even rather
+under than over the above scale. Late Grapes will require great care to
+preserve them from damp. Look over them frequently, and dry the house by
+fire during the day.
+
+
+SECOND WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be removed
+as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an application of
+flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented from making its
+appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings, using a little
+fire heat at the same time. Great caution is now necessary in giving
+water to the plants, more especially to such as have not well matured
+their growth, and are in a rather soft state. It is also advisable
+to look over them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be
+noticed, and the necessary supply of water be given. All pots to be
+turned around occasionally to keep the plants uniform.
+
+Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no more
+water than is really required. Keep down green fly.
+
+Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to keep out
+frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive their final
+shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable weather. Every one
+that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be kept down by
+fumigating. The most forward to have the lightest place in the house,
+close to the glass, with sufficient space for the air to circulate
+freely around the foliage of each.
+
+Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be avoided,
+except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40 deg.,
+or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom to be arranged
+in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted bass under
+the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened to secure the shoots
+and the better formation of the plant, obviates the too-extensive use of
+sticks, a superfluity of which is at all times objectionable.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the application
+of water are more especially required, as there is not a single feature
+in the cultivation of plants during the winter in which the amateur is
+more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury
+is sustained, than in the application of water either in its fluid or
+vaporous state. If applied to the soil in superabundance, the roots,
+being inactive, are certain to sustain some degree of injury; and if
+it is applied in excess to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the
+exhalations from the leaves of the plants will be checked in consequence
+of the density of the medium that surrounds them when they will be sure
+to suffer.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A
+one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most suitable
+for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and congenial for
+their healthy vegetation and growth.
+
+Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the buds,
+and keep every plant clean and neat.
+
+Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during severe
+weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those that have
+done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that they may not
+receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.
+
+Vines.--Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to produce
+fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere to "break" the early
+Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week. Keep the wood
+generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution as before advised.
+As the most essential point in early forcing is to secure a healthy and
+vigorous root action, it is advisable, if the Vines are planted
+inside, to excite the roots by an occasional application of water at a
+temperature from 85 deg. to 90 deg.. It the Vines are planted outside,
+a steady heat of about 60 deg. should be maintained by the fermenting
+matter placed on the border to be frequently turned over, and protected
+with dry litter from the frost or other unfavourable weather. Houses
+intended to commence forcing the early part of next month, to have some
+fermenting materials placed on the borders to excite the roots a little
+before the Vines are started, which will be of some assistance to make
+the buds push strongly and without much loss of time. To induce the
+buds to break regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is
+frequently necessary to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward
+buds to the lowest level, and to elevate the most backward.
+
+
+THIRD WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a
+confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat
+than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must be
+counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes condensed on
+the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the beauty of the
+flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The best corrective
+for such unfavourable results is to be found in keeping the temperature
+as low as may be consistent with the safety of the plants, and in
+withholding moisture as much as possible whenever the glass is affected
+by frost. See that the young stock of Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums,
+Persian Cyclamens, and other such flowers, that are grown especially
+for winter, are accommodated with a light, airy situation, and receive
+regular attention as regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums
+until they are thoroughly dry, and keep down insects.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and
+only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be
+accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60 deg. by day, and
+50 deg. by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before
+the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do not
+expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our collections
+of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of growth, and
+various kinds of temperature and climate, it is difficult to cultivate
+in one house a miscellaneous collection of them so satisfactorily as
+where there are two divisions, the one commanding a higher temperature,
+with more moisture, than the other. Where there is no such division,
+advantage may be taken of a forcing-pit, or other such house, to which
+any of them now in a growing state may be removed, and thus their
+growth may be promoted without injury to the general collection. For
+the general collection a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are
+now desirable, as no plants are more benefited by a season of rest than
+Orchids.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+All Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be secured from frost
+and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an excellent plunging
+medium for such of these as are wanted very early. Keep up a succession
+of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb, Sea-kale, &c., according to the
+demand.
+
+Cucumbers.--Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too many
+appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time, and now
+appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour again by a
+judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of a top dressing
+of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of liquid manure
+occasionally.
+
+Peaches.--A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as beneficial to
+Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it can but rarely be
+made use of, in consequence of the difference in the structure of the
+interior, moisture must be supplied by other means, such as syringing
+and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when warm. A few trees, in pots, are
+useful for early forcing, as they can be easily plunged in a pit or any
+other convenient place where a mild regular bottom heat can be supplied.
+The trees for this purpose must have been grown and established for some
+time in pots.
+
+Pines.--A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up to
+carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the winter.
+A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management of the
+succession plants.
+
+Strawberries.--If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the strongest
+plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and placed in
+a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the back or front
+shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for forcing, to be placed
+near the glass with a free admission of air on fine days.
+
+Vines.--It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with a low
+temperature--say, 55 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, to be increased
+5 deg. more until they break, when it may be raised to 60 deg. at night,
+and 65 deg. in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees
+by sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they
+break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines
+are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it
+constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the loose
+bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished by an
+application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient composition
+of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the fruit is ripe, a
+little fire heat will be necessary in frosty weather to prevent the
+vapour that adheres to the glass on the inside being frozen, for the
+moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon the bunches causing injury to
+the bloom, and decay to the berries.
+
+
+FOURTH WEEK.
+
+GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
+
+Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest degree
+compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In damp, foggy
+weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during the day
+to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather it is
+advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more especially at
+night. From 45 deg. by night to 50 deg. by day will be sufficient
+for the conservatory, and 40 deg. for the mixed greenhouse. To give a
+pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is advisable
+to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of flower to be
+removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the forcing-pit. All plants
+in these and other departments to be regularly looked over, removing
+the dead leaves and tying in straggling branches. The surface soil to
+be stirred a little, and some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are
+benefited by exposure to frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked
+or frozen surface every morning, until the whole is turned over and
+penetrated by the frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are
+destroyed, and the soil considerably ameliorated.
+
+Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots if they
+require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately
+through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get thoroughly
+dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to pull or to cut
+them off too close to the stem, by which the flower-shoots would be very
+likely to get injured.
+
+Camellias.--Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to
+great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to drop
+their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often fall off
+without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes in the
+temperature to which they are exposed. For instance: when the buds are
+nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them to push too rapidly;
+and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at the time checks their
+growth, and in other cases causes them to fall. The heat required to
+expand the blossom-buds is about 60 deg. by day, and 50 deg. by night.
+If this be attended to, the plants will continue in flower for a great
+length of time, as the plants in that heat are not excited to grow.
+A little weak manure water to be given occasionally to the blooming
+plants.
+
+Chrysanthemums.--When they begin to fade, to be removed to the north
+side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan, leaves, or
+sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter.
+
+Cytisuses.--Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the
+coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at all
+favourable opportunities.
+
+Orange Trees.--These, or other such plants that have not been recently
+potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil and
+supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping the
+leaves clean and healthy.
+
+
+STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
+
+As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of
+heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the
+freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10 deg. or 15 deg. above
+freezing, we would advise from 50 deg. by night to 60 deg. by day, for
+the stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer
+from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and either
+the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of the hothouse
+would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias, Euphorbias, Luculias,
+&c. Such plants should be carefully tied up and placed in the
+most conspicuous situations, or some of them may be removed to the
+conservatory so as to prolong their season of blooming.
+
+Allamandas.--Continue the temperature and treatment as lately advised.
+To be potted, as also _Stephanotis_, &c., and trained preparatory to
+starting them into growth, about the beginning of the new year.
+
+Forcing-pit.--Introduce such plants as are generally used for forcing,
+especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley, Sweet Briar,
+Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and bulbous
+plants.
+
+Ixoras.--To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to have
+plenty of air at favourable opportunities.
+
+
+FORCING-HOUSES.
+
+Cucumbers.--No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants are
+ridged out and in action.
+
+Peaches.--It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and some
+other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing in pots,
+and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage of being able
+to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which is of the greatest
+importance in early forcing. Those who have good established trees, in
+pots, may now start them in a moderate heat. Air to be given liberally
+in favourable weather, and the syringe to be used freely over them
+morning and evening. The surface soil to be stirred up and kept open,
+and a supply of manure water to be given previous to starting them. The
+trees in the late houses to receive whatever pruning is necessary, and
+to be cleansed of every particle of scale, and afterwards washed with a
+composition of soft soap and sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to
+be carefully removed.
+
+Pines.--During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw, &c.,
+will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be of more
+service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the temperature. When
+a supply of fruit is required throughout the year, it is sometimes
+necessary, at this season, to subject some of the plants to a high
+temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such as are most likely
+to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by themselves, where a
+temperature of from 60 deg. to 65 deg. by night, and from 70 deg. to 75
+deg. by day, with about 80 deg. of bottom heat, will be the most certain
+treatment for starting them into fruit. The other plants can then be
+supplied with a moderate temperature until the beginning of February;
+by such treatment a succession of fruit will be prolonged. Do not suffer
+the linings of dung-beds to decline, keep up, if possible, a temperature
+of 50 deg. at night, and 60 deg. by day, with a little air at every
+favourable opportunity.
+
+Potatoes.--Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in
+three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit, or
+in any other place where there is some heat, they will, in due time, be
+useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames or pits.
+
+Raspberries.--When a few early dishes would be considered a treat,
+if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the
+Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common
+care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting
+them.
+
+Vines.--When started and until the buds are fairly broken, endeavour to
+keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with the lowest part of
+the Vine, and if that should not be found sufficient to induce the buds
+to start regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, the rod
+should be bent so as to bring the most forward buds to the lowest level,
+and elevating those that are backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up
+by sprinkling the floor and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly
+every morning and evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the
+supply of moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots
+to some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not done
+as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful for early
+work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines in houses,
+from the hazardous operation of early excitement. Increase the
+temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to swell, or are
+starting a little. The fermenting material in the house to be stirred up
+occasionally. This fermenting material should, if possible, consist of
+a large proportion of leaves mixed with the dung, to prevent the steam
+from the latter discolouring the rafters and sashes; and if the vapour
+is likely to be too strong, a thin covering of sawdust or old tan will
+prevent any injurious effects. If the roots are outside the house, and
+had been covered before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more
+dung and leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border,
+the good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the
+Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the Vines
+to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with white lead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week
+in the Year, by William Keane
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