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diff --git a/test.txt b/test.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c340a8b --- /dev/null +++ b/test.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5165 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the +Year, by William Keane + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost +no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use +it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this +eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year + Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants + Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit, + Orchid, and Forcing-house + +Author: William Keane + +Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING *** + + + + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +IN-DOOR GARDENING + +FOR + +EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR: + +SHOWING + +THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS + +CULTIVATED IN THE + +GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE. + +BY WILLIAM KEANE. + +THIRD EDITION. + +LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, FLEET +STREET. + +1865. + + + + +IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY. + + +JANUARY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Cinerarias.--The plants intended for large specimens must receive their +final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their foliage +without interfering with or injuring each other. The side-shoots to be +tied out. + +Epacrises.--As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, a +little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display their +spikes of bloom more advantageously. + +Fuchsias.--If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest +should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots, +beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the +roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice +moist temperature of 50 deg. by day and 40 deg. by night. + +Heaths.--To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves removed. +The most forward in bud--such as the _Vestitas_, _Vernix_, _Vasciflora_, +_Aristata_, _Beaumontia_, and many others, to be tied out, and arranged +for the season. + +Pelargoniums.--When large specimens are wanted, tie out the branches at +equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot as possible. +Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water to be given but +sparingly, and not overhead. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if kept +at 50 deg. in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The +atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is bright; +and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be +removed to the warmest part of the house. + +Clerodendrons.--To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced and +repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and +also of any hard-wooded stove plants. + +Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient to +prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually it is +necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to be kept +moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., daily. If any +plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it should be placed in +the warmest part of the house, and the ripening process encouraged. The +Brassias, Cyanoches, Coelogynes, Miltonias, and other such plants, when +they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The compost to consist of +turfy peat mixed with a portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the +pots to be at least half full of very open drainage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial +heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air. + +Figs.--Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature without +injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to begin +cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with fire the +less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of sun and +light must be embraced for making sure progress with them. + +Peaches.--Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to be +cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have expanded +their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or other +artificial heat to be applied moderately--that is, from 45 deg. by night +to 55 deg. by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather prevails. +The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately moist, and in +a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty freely once or twice +a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny days, and sprinkle the +paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently. + +Vines.--When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be rubbed +off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long enough to +admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch being +broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice of +producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by means of dung +and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If they are to be broken +principally by fire heat, either by flues or hot-water pipes, copious +syringings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice a-day. +Fire heat to be applied principally by day, with air at the same time, +and very moderately at night. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants will now require particular attention and a nice +discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended by +all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the soil on +the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water until it +gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be given before +the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the plant droops and +the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is then to be discovered +by turning the ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the +whole or only a portion of the soil is wet; as it sometimes happens, +when fresh potted with light soil, it shrinks from the sides of the pot +when dry, and when water is given it runs down and moistens the outside, +without penetrating the ball. The evil is corrected by holding it for +a short space of time in a tub of water of the same temperature as the +house. If the soil of any plant is sodden with water it should be turned +out of the pot, and the drainage examined, and no water to be given +until it becomes thoroughly dry. + +Verbenas.--They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more +susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the +glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew +appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, they +will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not suffer for +want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60 deg. by fire heat, and +a fall of 10 deg. may be allowed at night in very cold weather. Many of +the stove plants--such as Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c.--may +now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a few weeks, which will +cause them to make an early growth, and to come into flower a few weeks +sooner next winter. + +Gesneras.--Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to +start into growth to produce a succession of flowers. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply +of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness is +sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the top is +kept moist by gentle waterings. + +Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply is +wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give them +frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red spider. + +Mushrooms.--An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If the +beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it like dew +at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50 deg. to 60 deg., with +air occasionally in favourable weather. + +Peaches.--Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be +artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off +a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be +carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have +been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end doors +being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top daily in +favourable weather. + +Pines.--As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants that are +swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual increase of heat +(from 65 deg. at night to 75 deg. or 80 deg. in the middle of the day in +clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while others that +are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or more moderate +temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric humidity. Some of +the strongest succession plants that are grown in pots to receive their +final shift, that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or +June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where the flues run near the +tan-bed, the plants should be closely examined, as they are apt to be +injured by fire heat in such a situation. + +Strawberries.--A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame where +there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to their healthy +growth than in a house. + +Vines.--When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the night +temperature to range from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of from 5 +deg. to 10 deg. during the day. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully +exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than is +absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and keep +the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible. + +Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and _Early +Horn_ Carrots, Cauliflower and _Walcheren_ Broccoli, Lettuce, and +various other things, which will be found useful where the late severe +weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn sowings. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + + +Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always +unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory. +Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water +settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, bulbs, +or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be +removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in +perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead +or decaying leaf and flower to be removed. + +Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such +coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much +injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere. +Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all +opportunities. + +Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally +shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a +slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and +free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be +the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs +of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water, +increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold. + +Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more +time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very +fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this +time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth. +Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in +boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance +of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very +dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to +shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence +the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation; +as the treatment required for _Oncidium Carthaginense_ would kill _O. +bifolium_, and _Cattleya Forbesii_ will thrive where _C. Skinneri_ will +die, and in like manner with many others. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in +heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into +small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when +necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south +border. + +Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate +temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to +swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the +temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere. + +Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich +soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the +plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading +shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from +the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will +come into bearing quicker than seedling plants. + +Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air +where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis +towards noon for dispersing the pollen. + +Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar. + +Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are +impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free +circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the +bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55 +deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water +until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes. + +Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for +Capsicums. + +Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are +sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots +to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required +for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the +shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow +from one joint one of them should be removed. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared +and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate +use should be stored in an open shed. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be potted into larger pots as they +require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould, +with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a moderately-moist +atmospheric temperature of from 45 deg. at night to 55 deg. in the day. +To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept +free from insects. + +Fuchsias.--After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their +roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat, +with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced to a +temperature of 60 deg.. When some of the young shoots are an inch long +they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where +they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in heat to +make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower garden. + +New Holland Plants.--Water them with care and moderation. Air to be +given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied +only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong shoots +of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the best +foundation for future good specimens. + +Sow seeds of Thunbergias, _Phlox Drummondi_, Mignonette, _Ten-week_ and +other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Achimenes.--Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as +they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be +started into growth in a moderate bottom heat. + +Gloxinias.--Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted +in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be +excited in bottom heat. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Those which were first in flower should be dried off +for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding water +gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the light. + +Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender +annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine specimens for the +adornment of the conservatory in summer. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will +require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally +when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce sturdy growth. +The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be +kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly; +and to maintain a heat of not less than 70 deg. by day; to be able +to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always +prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those +who are fortunate enough to be provided with pits heated by hot-water +pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be necessary. + +Melons.--To be treated as advised for Cucumbers. + +Peaches.--When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue +syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, to produce a moist, but not too +damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh air is +indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable opportunity; +and if the cold external air could be made to pass over the flues, or +hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in contact with the +blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly kept up until the +fruit is fairly set. + +Pines.--Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those +that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more water may +lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate during the day. +But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be +drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the +end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to the point of a small stick. + +Strawberries.--When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little +liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly +clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there is a gentle +heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to +be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass. + +Vines.--Continue the treatment as advised last week. + +Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and +Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward +to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger from frost is +over. + + + + +FEBRUARY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and the +small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, with a +liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept rather close +until they make fresh roots. + +Azaleas (Indian).--Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted before +starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat and sand, +with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature between 60 deg. and +70 deg. to be maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow +seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat. + +Kalosanthes.--To be started into growth, potting them in a compost of +half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf +mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of charcoal +and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be given, and +to be kept in a temperature of from 45 deg. to 50 deg.. + +New Holland Plants.--Select young plants of the Boronias and other such +families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good fibrous +heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of drainage. +It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the tops of +the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome specimens. + +Orange Trees.--Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed from +them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin to grow, +as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean without injury. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount of +atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an advance to +be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar heat can be +enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial atmosphere. + +Crinums.--Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the ball +of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of heat +to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be liberally +supplied with water. + +Gloriosa superba.--Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous loam, +with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No water to be +applied to the tubers until they have commenced their growth. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier, +and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable and +useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65 deg. to 70 deg. to be +maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have made +three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with liquid +manure. + +Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the +reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled their +pots with roots. + +Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of the +year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees several +times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all weathers until +the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to the early house, +when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to leave one-third more +on the trees than will be required to ripen off. If Peaches are intended +to be grown in pots for next season, the maiden plants should now be +procured, and potted in nine or ten inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach +and _Violette Hative_ Nectarine are the most eligible for that purpose. + +Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the +surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove them. +The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house or pit +as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we would not +advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of starting them +into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are good, healthy plants, +they will have formed their fructiferous parts before this time, and +therefore should not be allowed to get dry, but be watered when they +require it with tepid water. + +Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all respects +the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be increased in +accordance with the increase of light rather more rapidly at an early +stage of their growth than that of the house in which forcing was +commenced in December. When Vines for the early crops are grown in pots, +put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge them in a dung-frame or pit, +with a bottom heat between 70 deg. and 80 deg.. The _Hamburghs_, _Black +Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweetwater_ are the kinds to be preferred for +that purpose. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter, now +begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all others +that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the better +enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check or +hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to be +considered the most favourable season for a general shift, nevertheless +it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once or twice during +their season of growth. + +Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and cutting +back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots is +desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider, as they +are more liable than other plants to be infested by them. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse +plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove plants. + +Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil, consisting +of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general rule they are +repotted in February and August; but exceptions are sometimes made, and +a shift is given whenever the roots become cramped or matted in the pot. +The knife to be used cautiously, unless with the tall-growing sorts. + +Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight ago. +When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil, and +give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil will +be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little may +be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they advance +in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where the +temperature is about 60 deg.. + +Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half +turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with good +drainage. + +Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam, vegetable +soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand, with plenty of +drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a bark-bed, and to keep the +roots moist. + +Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the warmest +part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be supplied with a +little fresh material, taking care that the embryo buds are not covered. +Look over the fastenings of all that are on blocks, or in baskets, and +renew the wires where necessary. The temperature to be about 65 deg. by +day, allowing it to range to 70 deg. or 75 deg. by sun-heat. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50 deg. to 55 deg. while the +trees are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not +in flower to be frequently syringed. + +Cucumbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of +the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the +heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being, as +it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer, which +is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in the frame; +cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will allow it, a small +portion of air should be left on every night, which may be given in the +evening after the frame has been closed for two or three hours. Keep up +the heat by stirring, renewing, or topping-up the linings; and attend +to the stopping of the plants, and the earthing-up of the hills, as the +roots make their appearance on the surface. + +Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully expanded. + +Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if +growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed with +soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or a little +above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in clear, mild +weather as soon as the fruit is set. + +Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong, +healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring +them, leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if +unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely away, +and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive and healthy, +and potting them in fresh soil. + +Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in a +gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks. + +Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless buds and +branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in regularly, and +the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left on each Vine than +it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About one dozen bunches are a +good average crop for each rod. The temperature to range from 55 deg. to +60 deg. at night, with an increase of 5 deg. to 10 deg. during the day, +and even higher during sunshine. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged, +cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other +considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season +of blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer. +Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all other +such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then kept close +for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly to be kept down. + +Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, and +all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for bedding-out +purposes. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days lengthen. +Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, and +Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and +started in the same manner. + +Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high temperature +causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable to keep up a +healthy atmosphere of from 55 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of a few +degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very short +time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid draughts at this early +period of the year. All growing plants to be watered at the roots only, +being careful not to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves +to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids in a healthy state +it is necessary to grow them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made +proportionate to the specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel +of the plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as much +space as possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well +on blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_, +_Phalaenopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Brassavolas, the +Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Laelias, and nearly +all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the Schombergias. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the +fruit blossom when open. + +Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of air are +excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with water, and +the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead. + +Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be done +gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and injurious +change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be +kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55 deg. to 65 deg. and 70 deg. +by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in bloom; the +bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy setters, to be +artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil for that purpose. + +Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in raising +the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning temperature +is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be +syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every clear day unless +the plants are in bloom, or ripening their fruit. Any crowns, suckers, +or small plants not well established will do well in a pit or frame on a +bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where they will make a rapid and +vigorous growth during the summer. + +Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all laterals, +&c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all the principal +shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand +to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their +swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour. +Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_, +&c.--will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before expansion, +by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late +Vines should be pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be +removed, which will retard their breaking, and benefit the trees. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these houses, +and then particular attention must be given to the New Holland plants, +Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat, that they do not +suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moistened +at least once a-week. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, Maurandyas, +Rodochitons, and Tropaeolums, deserve attention at this time, increasing +them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also worthy of attention, +such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, with others +which may all be forwarded in heat. Whoever has not yet attended to the +propagation of plants for bedding out, should now begin, without further +delay, to put in cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias, +Salvias, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May and June. +All straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy +plants. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back, +such as the _Eranthemum pulchellum_, _Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora_, +_Geissomeria longiflora_, _Gesnera lateritia_, Justicias, _Linum +trigynum_, _Poinsettia pulcherrima_, and others. A bottom heat will be +necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about three weeks +or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they require shifting, +to be attended to. The condition or fitness for this must, in a great +measure, be determined by the progress the shoots and roots have made. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes, +Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks, +Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last year's young +Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and _Salvia patens_, to be shaken out, repotted, +and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, &c. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping, set +the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames watered with +warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots. Water overhead on +fine days, shutting up with 75 deg. or 80 deg. of heat. + +Cherries.--They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all times +except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable occasions, +shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep down the green fly +and look well after caterpillars. + +Figs.--Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead, except +on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the fruit to +drop off or to turn yellow. + +Peaches.--Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they +advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not +wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of the +temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their fruit. +Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and disbudding, +merely sufficient wood for next spring. + +Pines.--The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the +fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking care +that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants. The +plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with clean soot +water, air to be admitted on every favourable opportunity, but cold +draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept up in succession-pits +worked with linings. + +Strawberries.--To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and in +favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure water, and +the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred. + +Vines.--As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning +process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to induce +a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be properly +trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All small bunches +to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, the heat by day may +be allowed to rise from 70 deg. to 80 deg.. See to the border coverings, +if out-doors, as also border waterings, if in-doors. Be careful when +admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid cold currents and changes, +for in the space of an hour we have sometimes strong sunshine, sleet +or snow, and cutting winds. Vines in pots to be supplied with plenty of +manure water in all stages of growth, but especially when swelling off +their fruit. + + + + +MARCH. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of +air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and also to +temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side. If +severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used in +consequence, many plants that may appear all right may, nevertheless, be +very dry, and if they are not examined, and when very dry, well soaked +with water, they will soon show unmistakeable signs of approaching +death. + +Azaleas (Indian).--Young plants that have commenced their growth to be +repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them in a +warm, moist situation. + +Bulbs.--Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould, +with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth in +foliage. + +Heaths.--Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy heath-soil +full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure that the ball +is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly dry when that +operation is performed the waterings afterwards given will pass freely +through the fresh soil without penetrating the old ball. Give them all +the air possible, avoiding north or north-east winds. + +Potting must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the +occupants of these houses. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as briskly +as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in growth is +advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check the increase of +insects. + +Orchids.--The general collection to be favoured with a good steaming +every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done by +sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing state to +be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a perspiration +during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are generally increased +by passing a sharp knife between the pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave +at least two or three undisturbed next the growing shoots) so as to +sever one or more of the dormant bulbs from the parent plant, which +should remain until it shows signs of growth, when it may be taken off +and potted. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom, plenty of +air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up with a little +extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days. + +Figs.--Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure +may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause +the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to be +stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop. + +Melons.--Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to the +linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry atmosphere +when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin. + +Peaches.--Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young shoots, +disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the border is +necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious errors may be +made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or by giving too much. +The temperature of the early house to be from 55 deg. to 60 deg. by +night, ranging from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by sun heat, and allowing 65 deg. +by artificial heat, on dull days. + +Pines.--A day temperature of 75 deg. to 80 deg. to be maintained during +the progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric +moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat, and +to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy action of +the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright sunshine. + +Vines.--As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the +heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or +haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The moss +or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe, will keep +the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently induce a mass +of roots to be produced there. That by watering occasionally with liquid +manure will contribute to sustain the vigour of the trees. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur +at this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant +sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention is +necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, may be +given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds excluded. Frequent +watering will also be necessary, and fires to be dispensed with, or only +used occasionally, merely to ward off the rigour of sharp nights. The +plants in good health, and well rooted, to receive a liberal shift. +All plants when shifted to be accommodated with a little extra heat and +moisture in the atmosphere until they begin to make fresh roots, when +they will require to be more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy, +vigorous growth. + +Camellias.--The plants that have finished flowering to be removed to +a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by frequent +syringings. + +Cinerarias.--Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to form +handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house to be +given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into larger pots +as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of air, light, and +room. + +Fuchsias.--They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist +temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the syringe, to +make them large pyramidal specimens. + +Pelargoniums.--Attention to be paid to their training, to watering, and +to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all that may be +wanted for late blooming. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as +possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during the +day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the bottom +heat ranges from 70 deg. to 80 deg.. + +Orchids will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of wood +with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be supplied to +those in pots in a growing state. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding, +tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing +morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of +solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to obtain +satisfactory results. + +Cherries.--Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as +either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop. + +Cucumbers.--The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline rapidly +during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and air to be +given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape, taking care +to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing a mat or canvass +before the openings. + +Figs.--A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to be +given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience, the +trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves into which +they root, and where they are allowed to remain until they have borne +their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots are cut back to the +pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined in brick pits, where +short-jointed fruitful wood is produced without root pruning, which is +necessary when the roots are allowed to ramble without control. + +Melons.--This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will have +a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be most +wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow seed for a +succession. + +Pines.--Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be supplied +with soot or other manure water occasionally during the whole time they +are swelling the fruit until they attain their full size; watering and +syringing overhead should be withheld when they begin to change colour, +to give flavour to the fruit. The succession-plants recently potted to +be very moderately supplied with manure water, and in a very diluted +state until their roots reach the sides of the pots. + +Strawberries.--Introduce succession-plants under glass, according to the +demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom and near +the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of fresh air +without currents. + +Vines.--Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to leave +more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to perfection. The +borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be maintained at the +roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply good soakings of manure +water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the late Vines as soon as the +bunches are perceptible. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the +hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in good +time to acquire a vigorous growth. + +Cacti.--The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them an +alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of lime +rubbish and loam, with a little cowdung, and in well-drained pots. +In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered; and from +October to March to be kept perfectly dry. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots in a compost +of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy peat, +old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss on the +crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be freely +given, avoiding currents of cold air. + +Heaths.--Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be stopped, to +produce a more uniform and compact plant. + +Lilium lancifolium.--To be potted either in a good peat, with a little +silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver sand. The +bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of the pot to +allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil. + +Pelargoniums.--The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The +house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them to +push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have not been +stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their trusses, on sunny +days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up warm, with the sun upon +it, about three or four o'clock in the afternoon. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a plentiful +supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80 deg. or more, +allowing a fall of 20 deg. during the night. Shake out and repot in +succession the stove plants that have been previously recommended to be +headed back, and encourage a free growth by plunging them, if possible, +in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used until they have filled them +with roots, they may then receive one bold shift that might probably be +sufficient for the season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the +operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the action +of the roots. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere like fine mild weather +in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit, give the trees no +water at the roots, as this is generally one of the chief causes of so +much of it falling off at that time. + +Figs.--When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally +supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or +five eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up +vacancies. + +Melons.--Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &c., as required. +Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and lively atmosphere +during that period. Air to be given freely in favourable weather, but +cautiously, with some contrivance to break cold winds. Do not allow a +plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently strong to sustain it. + +Peaches.--Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that +are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the +period)--say 65 deg. by day and 60 deg. by night; but when they commence +their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant +shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when +about the size of Peas. + +Pines.--The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with manure +water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if recently +shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun is powerful; +to be kept rather close and dry, except slight sprinklings over the +tops, until they have taken root, when they may be watered freely, and +will generally require no more to be given for a week or ten days. + +Vines.--The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have been +thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and moisture. The +night temperature to be kept up to 65 deg., with an increase of 10 deg. +by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second house may now be in +bloom, and will require attention in tying the shoots and keeping up the +necessary amount of heat, with less moisture. Where the fruit is set, +give the Vines a good syringing, to wash off the flowers; after which +the leaves and fruit should not be again wetted, but to be supplied with +atmospheric moisture by watering the floor of the house, and sprinkling +the flues or pipes, or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of +tepid manure water to the Vines fruiting in pots. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or are +in active growth, constant attention will be required for the judicious +regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh air during +fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water to the roots, +and atmospheric moisture. + +When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which +inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in proper +condition for the growing season. No fear need then be apprehended from +potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, &c., and admit plenty +of air, bearing in mind former directions as to draughts, &c. If the +plants in the borders, or any of the climbers, are dry, give them a good +soaking of weak, tepid manure water. Trellis climbers to be frequently +attended to--stopping, training, and arranging their shoots. + +Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender annuals by +potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the side of the pot. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the plants +well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots up to the +lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh rootlets from +the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly. + +Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops of +gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained. + +Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show flower. + +Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck. + +Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots, +according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by placing +them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as soon as they +are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature similar to that +in which they were struck. + +Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy circulation +of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove plants. Continue +to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last week, those which have +been flowering through the winter. To be then favoured with a bottom +heat of from 75 deg. to 80 deg., and slightly shaded during bright +sunshine. + +Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for specimens +will probably require a second shift, see to them in time; and if +they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a large +shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air at all +favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with moisture. The +surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week, and sprinkle it +occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist, congenial atmosphere +about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun heat. Look sharply after +mealy-bug and thrips. + +Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed into the +flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan. + +Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them, as +they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much water over +those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may damp off. +Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. _Calantha +veratifolia_, _Neottia picta_, _N. elata_, Phaius of sorts, some +varieties of Stanhopea, _Zygopetaltum Mackayii_, and other such Orchids +that are now making their growth, would be benefited by an application +of clear, diluted manure water occasionally; a kindly humidity to +be kept up, and the shading to be in readiness for use during bright +mid-day sun. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give air +daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot +off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias, +Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal supply of +manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them. + +Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the +temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to be +liberally supplied. + +Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give a +little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off, when +they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As soon as +the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame, never allow any +of the laterals to grow more than two joints before being stopped. Stop +frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit show at a joint pinch +one away. + +Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the walls +exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur. + +Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, moist +heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The plants +that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air at every +favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. The +shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that are not +wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65 deg., and air to be +admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75 deg.; but to be given +very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young +plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong and +vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when they +require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the beds +by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated in +accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats do not +hang over either the front or back of the frames. + +Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that have +been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; sprinkle the +floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are +to have the materials for making the beds well prepared and sweet--that +is, free from rank steam, and the spawn to be put in whilst the heat +keeps regular and moderate, and the beds are coated over to keep it so +until the spawn is well established. + +Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those that +are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, leaving +more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is liable to +drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended +to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, and some suitable +trees have to be provided, it should be no longer postponed. It is a +good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, to succeed any that may +become useless. + +Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, and a +humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85 +deg. during the day, and as near 70 deg. as possible at night; the +succession-pits from 75 deg. to 80 deg. during day, and 60 deg. to 65 +deg. at night. These particulars to be modified by the state of the +weather, whether sunny or dull. + +Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their fruit, +when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, or any other +house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their +fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling overhead +daily. When the fruit begins to change colour the sprinkling to be +dispensed with, and the supply of water at the roots to be given +sparingly. + +Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air, +accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention +to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming the +borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the +influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice as to +tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the fruit in the +succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set. When thinning be +as careful as possible of the bunches--neither pull them about with +the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently produced, nor with +whatever the shoulders may be held up by at the time of thinning, as, +by the twisting of the stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced. +Attention to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all +useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which is most +beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look over houses where the +fruit is swelling, and see if any of the bunches would be improved by +tying up the shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should +be inarched before the wood gets too old. + + + + +APRIL. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses have +been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the sooner they +are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants +with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and pay attention to the +destruction of insects the moment you can perceive them. + +Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to syringe +them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and maintaining a kindly +humidity during the time they are making their growth. + +Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, and +shade slightly during bright sunshine. + +Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling +growth to be stopped. + +Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing of +turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung. + +New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, Dillwynias, +Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c., +a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the young growth as it may +require it; keep them clean, and repot them when necessary. + +Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss of +time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will feed +greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of the pot. +Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of air, +using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe frequently air +plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80 +deg. towards three or four o'clock. + +Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for +succession. + +Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be +reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some time +afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; and +also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_, _Justicias_, +_Linums_, &c. + +Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow. + +Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere for +a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied until that +period, and then with moderation. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such plants +from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and autumn +decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, the +temperature may be raised to 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, and +syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp +look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in +them destroyed. + +Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally with +water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. Temperature, 65 +deg. by day and 55 deg. by night. + +Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state of +the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes show +one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which should be +picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. The vines, +or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and when they have nearly +filled the frame, or other allotted space, several fruit should be +impregnated at one time. Sow for successional crop. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the shoots as +they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, fumigate the +house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them in tobacco water. +When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the number +you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, which is better than +pulling them off. + +Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and, +therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants may +now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting those that +are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85 +deg. during day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night. The successions +from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night. + +Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of water, +syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation. + +Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines +in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now +commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable +opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently +cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the later houses, +attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The last house to +be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most cases, will be +considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently; to +apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and to postpone the +application of fire-heat as long as possible. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the +greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost. It +will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other such +plants. + +Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their fresh +growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a short time. + +Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants making +wood, with a temperature of about 65 deg. by day and 55 deg. by night. +Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy, short-jointed +wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright sunshine. + +Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may not +suffer by want of water. + +Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in pots +which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas, Thunbergias, +Nierembergias, Tropaeolums, and other such plants of a slender and +tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion being composed of +leaf mould. + +Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers. + +Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention without +delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of their growth; +as the free-growing kinds will require more room than the less vigorous +ones. + +New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or +approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger +quantity of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted since +last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading shoots, to +produce bushy plants. + +Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and +fumigating, if the green fly appears. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the +free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing; using +shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted, give less +water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first watering will be +moist enough for some time. Some of the free-growing kinds of Cattleyas, +Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums, Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should +be encouraged to make kindly growth by frequent syringings about their +pots, blocks, or baskets. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The principal objects to be attended to are--abundance of +air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist atmosphere, and +the free application of the syringe. The temperature the same as last +week. Particular attention in watering to be paid to the trees in +pots,--as too much is as bad as, if not worse than, too little. + +Figs.--Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. +Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to change for +ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak tepid liquid +manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when they are confined +in pots or tubs. + +Melons.--As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a crop +are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of each other, +they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than cure, keep +the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent syringings in fine +weather, and closing early; insects will but rarely, if ever, attack +thriving plants. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the +early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak +liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all +laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin them; +as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an earlier period +of the season. + +Pine Apples.--Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong solar +heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid; therefore, +water must be applied to both roots and leaves. Succession plants to be +shaded during sudden bright sunshine or sunbursts; and be guided in the +application of water by the active or inactive state of the roots. + +Vines.--Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance. The +first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of Peas; +the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after the +berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches long, +crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and forward, +as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to be tied up +as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine afternoon, and +close the house early. Give air early in the morning, that the leaves +may become gradually dry before the sun acts powerfully upon them. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the health of +the plants. By such means they will remain longer in bloom, and will be +more enjoyable for parties inspecting them. + +Camellias.--Continue to encourage the growth of those that have done +flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent syringings, and by +a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any have made their growth, +and have formed their blossom-buds, they will require more light and +less moisture for the future. + +Cinerarias.--To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is +necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for want +of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful, slight +shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the day, to +prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty of air to be +given when the weather is mild. + +Fuchsias.--Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture, they +will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into their +blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose. + +New Holland Plants.--Top and syringe frequently all such plants as are +growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require. + +Pelargoniums.--Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it in +due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance) may be +given to plants that are well established with roots and showing their +trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for each plant to +develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading only when there is +a fear of scorching from the usual sudden sunbursts of April weather. +Ply the syringe every fine evening to refresh the plants, and to +keep down insects, until the flowers expand, when syringing should be +discontinued. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth. Allow +no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist atmosphere. Give +air when the thermometer indicates 90 deg.. Continue to shift Gesneras, +Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants, as they require it. +The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias, +Phaiuses, Sobralias, Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now +be growing freely, and will therefore require a considerable amount of +atmospheric moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little +management in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside +shading, and will give an additional feature of interest to the house. +The plants on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very +frequent syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants +in bloom may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a +drier atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--When they begin to change they will require free exposure to +light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour; and, at the same +time, a diminution in the supply of water. Carefully examine all curled +leaves, and destroy the grubs they contain. If the trees are very +luxuriant, and are making strong foreright shoots, stop them to within a +few buds of the main branch. + +Figs.--Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they are +swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and thin out +any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely. + +Melons.--Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in very hot +weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession crops. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--When the fruit in the early house has gone +through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should take +place; the borders--if inside, or out, or both--should be copiously +supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a weak habit, from +poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be necessary. Syringings to +be given twice a-day--early in the morning and at shutting-up time. The +night temperature to be no more than 50 deg.; but during the day it may +range to 85 deg., if accompanied with air in liberal quantities. + +Pine Apples.--Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when +they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist +atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn out +the plants, if preferred. + +Strawberries.--They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65 deg. +to 70 deg. by day, and 55 deg. to 60 deg. by night; succession crops +rather cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems, +and thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of +runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air. + +Vines.--Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few berries +may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the time of +their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature--about 75 deg. by day +and 60 deg. by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in course +of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In later +houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the heat be +moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all favourable +opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near the light. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove, +forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming +season, will require particular care to be taken in the application of +water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to stop, +prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due time. Stir +the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply fresh soil, to +maintain the plants in good health. + +Azaleas, Chinese.--Supply them liberally with water at their roots +during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from injuring +the bloom. + +Calceolarias.--The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in a +gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be grown in a +cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being too much drawn. +Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping the plants well down +in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets from the stem. Cuttings +taken off now will root readily in a gentle bottom heat. + +Camellias.--Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect the +young leaves. + +Fuchsias.--Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use the +syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be long-jointed, to +produce uniform and bushy plants. + +Heaths.--Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded plants +that are now in bloom, or approaching that state. + +Pelargoniums.--Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late +blooming should now be stopped. + +Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian.--Treat as advised for _Azaleas_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly increase +the temperature. Shade with tiffany, or close-meshed netting, in bright +sunny weather; removing it early in the afternoon. Water liberally all +that are making free growth. Repot any that may require it as soon as +they have fairly commenced their growth. Continue to give liberal shifts +to the free-growing young stock of stove plants, slightly shading for +a few hours in hot weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and +producing a kindly humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots, +&c. + +Begonias.--Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful tribe of +plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the adornment of the +conservatory. + +Clerodendrons.--Encourage by a moist heat. + +Climbers.--Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies of +water, if in pots. + +Gardenias.--They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung linings +is most congenial to them. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Pot bulbs for late flowering. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty of +air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in tubs, or +pots, to become dry. + +Figs.--The same as last week. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--Keep the leading shoots regularly tied in, and +pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones. + +Pine Apples.--It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or have +already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit, that more +air may be admitted to them than to the others more advanced, to produce +a more robust growth, and to avoid the necessity of using stakes to +support the fruit. Air to be admitted freely to the succession plants at +every favourable opportunity. + +Strawberries (in pots).--Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather dry +atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure flavour. +When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and the +atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid currents of +frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass according to the +demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has been picked to the open +air till well hardened off. Give them the protection of a cold pit for a +time, as they are invaluable in open-air plantations. + +Vines.--Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on every +favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the morning before +the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed vapour, which +would affect them injuriously, from settling on the bunches. Attend to +stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots, tying in leaders, &c., +in the later houses. Remove the top dressing from the outside border, to +allow the increasing power of the sun to act beneficially upon it. + + + + +MAY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger pots; +and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose habit of +growth, to make them compact and bushy. + +Azaleas.--As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to make +their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them occasionally +with manure water, and shade for a short time in the middle of the day +when the sun is powerful. + +Calceolarias.--Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade +those in bloom. + +Cinerarias.--When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the +development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame. + +Climbers.--Keep all neatly trained. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The late-flowering sorts, or such as +have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another season, +may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as require it must be +shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular attention being paid that they +do not get dry at the root. + +Pelargoniums.--Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such as +are wanted to flower late. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in +correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early in +the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice stove +plants, and keep all free from insects. + +Achimenes.--Pot off. + +Begonias.--Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, pruning in any +straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them close, +and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing. Keep +them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to expand. The +following are good sorts:--Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina, Fuchsioides, +Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma. + +Gloxinias.--Repot where necessary. + +Succulents.--Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited into +vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and moisture. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--Temperature 65 deg. to 70 deg. by day and 50 deg. at night, +and give plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold. + +Figs.--Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use the +syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in the +afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening, the +syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier; but, as +there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water must not +be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening, as it would +endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more sparingly. + +Melons.--Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is safely +set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure water. Let +swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the light. + +Peaches.--Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both increase +the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom of the tree. +The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the same purpose, and +to keep down insects. Air and light to be admitted, to give flavour and +colouring to the ripening fruit. + +Pines.--The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be treated +with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot water, or both +combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in foliage and growth, +with the caution that it be given in a warm, clear state, and not too +strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm afternoons, and close up with +a temperature of 85 deg. or 90 deg.; giving air again towards evening. +When indications of ripening by changing colour appear, desist from the +use of the syringe, and give them no further supplies at the root. + +Strawberries.--When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a frame +where a free admission of air can be given. + +Vines.--Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next +year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of pot +room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some of +the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as they +advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and +other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a brisk +day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of blooming, +and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction to a +night-temperature of 65 deg. or 68 deg., to suit the other varieties. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid +atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted. +Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them, +before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for bedding +out, and let them remain for a short time under the protection of a cold +frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at night with mats, or other +such protecting materials. This gradually-hardening-off will better +enable them to withstand unfavourable weather, if it should occur after +they are planted out. + +Azaleas.--All irregularities of growth should be corrected by pruning. +We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning on such +plants; they had been cut in severely last season by removing strong, +straggling branches of old wood, to give some a spherical and others +a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was reduced, the plant fresh +potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the peat soil rammed as hard as +it was possible to make it; then watered, and introduced to heat. The +plants treated in that manner are now covered with bloom, and in a high +state of vigour. + +Heaths.--Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants. + +New Holland Plants.--Some of them of weak growth, and which naturally +make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending down the +branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string attached to the +rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the plant at its base is +hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of the sap will induce an +increased supply of shoots. Pick off the seed-pods as the plants go out +of bloom. Cut back and arrange the shoots in the best manner, to produce +compact growth. + +Pelargoniums.--All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross habit, +will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure water. For +that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and to one peck +add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When taking it for use +draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering twice a week. Give air +freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants overhead till the flowers +expand, when syringing should be discontinued. As the petals are apt to +drop very soon in hot weather, it is recommended to touch the centre +of the flower with a camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum +water, which will stick the petals together and prolong the blooming. +Such is the general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such plants +as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent attention +to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently, to regulate +their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of trouble and +confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as Brugmansias, Clerodendrons, +Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias, and those winter-flowering plants +_Euphorbia jaquiniflora_ and the _Gesnera bulbosa_. Where there is only +one house in which to grow Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must +be made to suit the natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady +woods of the East, and those which inhabit high and airy regions in the +Western hemisphere. To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free +circulation of air during the early part of the day, with an abundance +of atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a +high degree of temperature. + +Achimenes.--They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded +situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The shoots to +be staked out neatly. + +Gesneras to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light. + +Gloxinias.--The same as _Achimenes_. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is +ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their fruit. Keep +them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little value. + +Figs.--Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid +wetting the fruit when it begins to soften. + +Melons.--Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the +linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep the +foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be produced. +When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in them with a +little assistance from dung heat at bottom. + +Peaches.--Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees, the +fruit of which are ripening. + +Pines.--Continue the previous instructions in the management of the +plants in the different stages of growth. + +Vines.--Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good time. +Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of _Muscats_, +_West's St. Peter's_, and other shy setters. Be sure that inside borders +are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient quantities to +thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn +decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and +water. + +Azaleas.--Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely +potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure. + +Camellias.--Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat amongst +all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the supply of +water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from flagging, will induce +the production of blossom-buds. + +Epacris.--Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts +that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath soil, +rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for some time +after being newly shifted, require particular attention in watering, +that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be placed in a +cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine. The stopping or +pinching out the points of strong shoots must be regularly attended to +during their growing season, to establish a uniformity of sturdy growth. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--All that have flowered, and have made +their season's growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames, to allow +those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air, sun and light. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at favourable +opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very freely, and +should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to stopping, training, +&c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot room, and allow them +all the sunshine they will bear without scorching; also, allow them +sufficient space for the development of their foliage. Plenty of +moisture is now requisite to encourage a free growth in Orchids, to get +their pseudo-bulbs firm, well nourished, and ripened in good time. +Free ventilation in favourable weather and a slight shading in bright +sunshine are also requisites for their healthy growth. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even to +the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather. Fires may +be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very cold. + +Figs.--Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth; +discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They +frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots. + +Melons.--If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants, they +will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is swelling +off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants overhead, and to +shut up early every fine afternoon with a good heat. Lay the fruit on a +tile or piece of slate. + +Peaches.--When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen, admit +air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the lights +entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct influence of +the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained. Continue to stop +all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young wood. Some persons +lay in plenty of young wood to select from in winter pruning; but +fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over the tree, is best +attained by the judicious and successive thinning of useless shoots +during their growing season. Continue to tie in the shoots of the late +houses. + +Pineries.--When the repotting of the plants has recently taken place it +will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright sunshine, +for a few days; but for the general stock shading should be dispensed +with as much as possible--as short, stiff leaves and sturdy growth are +best attained by judicious airings and humidity. Do not water much at +the root immediately after repotting. Maintain a brisk bottom heat to +the succession plants. Admit plenty of air during favourable weather. + +Vineries.--As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is +advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to retain +and to preserve with the greatest care the principal leaves--as the +good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition of the tree for +the ensuing season will depend upon the number and healthy state of the +principal leaves. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a +liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight +shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days. + +Azaleas, Chinese.--When done blooming, they succeed best in a close pit, +kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the day. If +they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery, or in any +other large house where they can stand at a distance from the glass +without shading. + +Balsams and Cockscombs.--Promote their growth by shifting them into +larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the glass, +and heat. + +Camellias to be treated as advised for _Azaleas_. + +Geraniums.--If any remain after the flower-garden masses are furnished, +they should be potted and treated with every attention as to watering, +&c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow freely, to be +stopped, to make bushy plants. _Calceolarias_, _Fuchsias_, _Petunias_, +_Verbenas_, &c., treated in a similar manner, will be useful as a +reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants that are now in bloom, and to +fill up vacancies as they occur in the beds and borders. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Many being now in full growth will +require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather. Many +fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering; for +if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours to +restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Ornamental stove plants--such as Brugmansias, Centradenias, +Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras, +Justicias, Poinsettias, &c., to be supplied with clear liquid manure, +and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the free-growing +plants will require shifting occasionally. The great object should be +to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to secure luxuriant +foliage at the right season, when there will be more time for the wood +to be properly matured for winter. The syringings to be given early in +the afternoon, that the plants may get dry before night. + +Achimenes.--When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine effect. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is +ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling their fruit. +Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free from insects. + +Chrysanthemums.--Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck, the +cuttings should be put in at once. + +Cucumbers.--Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for +ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the ball of +earth is well soaked with water before planting. + +Figs.--Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with +abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is +ripening. + +Peaches.--Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to the +ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether from +the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the inside +borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour that arises +may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if dry, should also +be watered as far as the roots extend, and then mulched, to prevent +evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the early-forced trees have +naked branches, some of the earliest-made wood may be taken from the +trees, and buds inserted from it in the barren parts. Buds inserted +now may start into growth in July, and be stopped when about six inches +long, to get the wood well ripened. + +Pines.--A bottom heat from 80 deg. to 85 deg. must be kept up to the +plants intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where +practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to remain +in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with water, and +occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth of the suckers. + +Vines.--In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature may be +allowed to rise to 90 deg., with sun heat, and to decline to 60 deg. at +night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be covetous +to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad effects. Stop +laterals, and use the syringe freely in the afternoons. + + + + +JUNE. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Azalea Indica.--Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after they +have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an abundance of +water, and syringing freely. + +Calceolarias.--Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and remove +them to a cold frame. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The young stock will now succeed best in +a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass to be well +washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes, above the ground +level. + +Pelargoniums.--Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from +scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late flowering. + +Petunias.--Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating +pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums, +Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours for +the conservatory. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping. +The Aerides, Dendrobiums, Phalaenopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses, +Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will now +require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings. Gongoras, +Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c., when full of roots in baskets, require +a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot Cymbidiums, Peristerias, +&c., starting into growth. Aerides, Vandas, and plants of a similar +habit, do best when shifted after they have done blooming. + +Achimenes.--Continue to shift them, as also _Begonias_, _Clerodendrons_, +_Gesneras_, &c., as requisite. Remove those in bloom to the greenhouse +or conservatory. + +Climbers.--Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest of +the plants to an injurious extent. + +Succulents.--Shift _Melocacti_, &c., and keep them growing, and near the +glass. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has been +lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an occasional supply +of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing overhead with the +syringe, or engine, dashing it on with considerable force. They will +also require to have their wood matured early. + +Figs.--Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four or +five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the second +crop where too thick. + +Melons.--Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals. When the +fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly moist state, +and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat should not be +allowed to sink below 75 deg.. + +Peaches.--Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and moisture, +and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and healthy. The +ripening fruit will require plenty of air. + +Pines.--Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to remain in +a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to start prematurely +into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that the balls are +thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give strength to the +growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of air in the morning +part of the day; and in the afternoon, to encourage a high degree of +heat with an abundance of atmospheric moisture. The plants growing in +open beds to be supplied with a steady bottom heat of from 80 deg. to 85 +deg., and sufficient water to the roots. + +Vines.--Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell +rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in bloom +to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the fruit is +set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass of useless +wood to remain on them. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an +out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from high +winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the worms cannot +get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain should be turned +round from time to time, that they may not get one-sided; and allow them +to have plenty of room on all sides. Also, the young plants intended for +specimens should have their flower-buds picked off, to encourage their +growth. + +Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in bottom +heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds to be +picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size before they +are allowed to bloom. + +Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have flowered; +if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature having +completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the plants down, +and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold frame _facing the +east_, the lights on during the day, with air, and entirely off during +the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night dews are highly +beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon produce new shoots, which +must be taken off and pricked out into small pots in a very open soil, +and placed in a very gentle bottom heat to strike. When rooted, to be +shifted into pots of a larger size. + +Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be cut +down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the old soil +removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a sheltered +situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in which the +Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of the soil, in +rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the row. When planted, +to be well watered. + +Climbers.--The Passifloras, _Mandevilla suaveolens_, _Tecoma +jasminoides_, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now be +growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent attention to +keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to grow in a natural +manner, merely preventing them from getting too much entangled, or +growing into masses. + +Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an abundance of +water and frequent syringings. Train them in the desired form, and pinch +back all weak and straggling shoots. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and be sure +that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young plants which +are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where they can be +exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper foundation for +a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train the shoots into +form. + +Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and give +them liquid manure occasionally. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To harden +the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter flowering, it +is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such as the shelves +of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the Stanhopeas will now be +blooming, should be carefully examined to see that the buds, as they +protrude, may not be injured by contact with the side. Many stove plants +and Orchids in flower, if taken to a late vinery, or such intermediate +house, will thus be prepared, in a short time, for removal to the +conservatory during the summer. + +Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging +loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either +hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and +regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a +confused mass of wood and foliage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather. + +Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a good +syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to keep down +insects. + +Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks, during +bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the scorching of +the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens prematurely, and is, in +consequence, without flavour. + +Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible +during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the lights +open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give a good +watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as previously +advised. + +Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the +fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow at +the same time the thermometer to range from 90 deg. to 95 deg.. Shut up +when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and ply +the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and +the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two +afterwards for the night. + +Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they +advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work to +be done. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in showery +weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage. The more +delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected by some means +during heavy rains. + +Camellias.--When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air night +and day, with an occasional application of the syringe, keeping the +paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing, and have formed +their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the plants overhead, as it +sometimes starts them into a fresh growth that will be the destruction +of the flower-buds. + +Chrysanthemums.--Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in an +open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one stem, +and others to be topped, to make them bushy. + +Cinerarias.--In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each parent +plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour, and to +place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should be carefully +gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow pots, or pans, well +drained with crocks; then some siftings, and over that some light soil, +with some finer and more sandy on the surface, covering the seeds very +lightly with the same; and slightly sprinkling, or watering, through a +very fine rose, and the surface covered with a little moss, to prevent +evaporation. In a few days the seedlings will be up; then remove the +moss, and let them remain in the pots, or pans, until they are large +enough to be handled with safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep +close for a day or two. + +Lilium lancifolium.--Give attention to them; as also to tree Carnations, +_Salvia splendens_, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., for autumn and early winter +flowering. + +Oranges.--The same as advised for _Camellias_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Achimenes.--Repot, as also _Begonias_ and _Gesneras_, for succession of +late bloom. + +Luculia gratissima.--Propagate by cuttings. + +Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with fresh +soil. The _Barkeria spectabilis_, _Epidendrum Skinneri_, the Lycastes, +_Odontoglossum grande_, &c., will now enjoy the temperature of the +conservatory. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Figs.--Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long. Never +allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now require daily +attention. + +Melons.--Shade them during bright sunshine for a few hours in the middle +of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum, mixed with +water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or frame, where +the sun's rays may fall upon them. + +Peaches.--Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so. When +the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the syringe. Those +changing for ripening, if the trees are young and vigorous, to have a +general stopping of the strong shoots all over the higher parts of the +tree. To keep down red spider, it is advisable to wash the walls, pipes, +or flues, with sulphur vivum reduced to the consistency of paint; or to +paint some slates, tiles, or common saucers, with the mixture, and to +place them in different parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon +them. + +Pines.--If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well +furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in a +warm state, may be given with advantage to them. + +Strawberries.--As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a +healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have emitted +the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out on a rich +piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or early Potatoes +have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather is hot, they are +more convenient to shade, and require less water. + +Vines.--When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood +by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be +gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and somewhat in +the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop, not all at +once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may be allowed to +produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient room to lay them +in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood, or shading the old +leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned, their shoulders to be +tied out, and every useless shoot to be removed. Keep the Vines in pots +trained, and exposed to light, and apply weak liquid manure frequently. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants--such as Boronias, +Epacrises, &c.--will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting in +rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse plants +will most probably require shifting, and should receive that attention +now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a sharp look out +for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and give the plants, if +the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice a-week from the syringe +or garden engine. + +New Holland Plants.--If any are retained in the house, let them be +placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and at +the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots; but if +such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in another +two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss. + +Pelargoniums.--When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open +ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they are +cut down. + +Scarlet Geraniums.--To prepare them for winter blooming it is advisable +to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out of doors and +in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as they appear. To be +carefully attended with water. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the +floors, paths, &c., damp. Many of the stove plants--viz., Clerodendrons, +Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums, Pergularias, +Stephanotises, &c.--may be removed to the conservatory, where the +flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a longer period +than if they had remained in the stove. + +Euphorbias.--Propagate _jacquiniaeflora_ and _fulgens_, and grow them +on a successional system of culture for furnishing the conservatory and +stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Keep up a succession in various stages of growth, and +place another batch of tubers in a pan. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in houses +where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere cool and +moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the engine, to keep +down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy. + +Cherries.--When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit has +been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely open. +Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine. When the +plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard bottom on +the north side of a wall or fence. + +Melons.--Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without it +a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most injurious +effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the plants overhead +occasionally. + +Peaches.--Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while the +fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning, to +prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early in the +afternoon. + +Pines.--Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and give +attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due time. By +such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be secured for the +fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants swelling their fruit to +be also favoured with a high temperature, a moist atmosphere, and plenty +of water, and occasionally manure water at the root. If worm-casts +appear in any of the pots, water with lime-water in a clear state. + +Vines.--As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the ripe +bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur must +be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the use of the +syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen. Check the growth +of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final thinnings to the latest +Grapes; and as they are frequently required for winter use, a good +thinning should be given, as crowded bunches and berries will not keep +late in the season. + + + + +JULY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the conservatory +should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure. Give all the air +possible at this season, both night and day, and keep the house as neat +and clean as possible. If it contains many tender stove plants, shut it +up for an hour while the sun is on it in the evening, so as to produce a +more genial atmosphere for them. + +Achimenes.--Encourage them, as also _Clerodendrons_, &c., to grow and to +prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them with liquid +manure, taking particular care not to give it too strong, especially at +first. + +Cinerarias.--Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should also +be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers for the +purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they have made +fresh growth. + +Chrysanthemums.--Propagate some for blooming in small pots. + +Heaths.--Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become +unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds--such as +the _ventricosa_, &c.--do best in a sheltered situation in the open +air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the +woolly-leaved--such as _Masonii_, &c.--and hardwooded varieties delight +in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for protection as +necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted in the spring, and, +if necessary, pot them without delay; but if they require to be cut in, +to make them bushy, it will be best to let them break afresh before they +are repotted. + +Leschenaultias.--If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to be +repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times, and +abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that were +potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require more pot +room. + +Ixoras.--Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air both +night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue stopping +them for the season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in +tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy quarter, +to make their wood for next season's bearing. + +Figs.--Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up their +second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be useful. Pinch +out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long. It should be a +practice to manage the trees during the summer that nothing more than a +slight thinning out should be wanted at the winter pruning. + +Melons.--Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out the +shoots, stopping, &c. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--When all the fruit is gathered, and the wood +seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite off, and +place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to be given to +the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop in succession +many of the strong shoots about the period the last swelling commences. +Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in the morning and again in +the evening. + +Pines.--Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession plants, and +during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every open space with +moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants becoming brown. If such a +practice be regularly adopted during hot, bright sunny weather, shading +will seldom or never be necessary. Be at the same time particular in +maintaining a mild, genial bottom heat. + +Vines.--The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept dry and +well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention to keep a +regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air. _Muscats_ very +frequently require fires during the night and on wet, cold days. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in the +middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the foliage; and +never to be watered overhead. + +Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have finished +their growth. + +Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very large +heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the flowers are +formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of one-half rich loam, +one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and supplied with as much +liquid manure and moist heat as possible. + +Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air +and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages with +clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and evening +overhead. + +Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they will +flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or rotten dung. +They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be subjected to a +moist heat of not less than 75 deg.. + +Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When +watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball +is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is again +completely dry. + +Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and +liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly sticked, +so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in presenting a +large mass of flowers to the eye at once. + +Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as +advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down. After +the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the most +forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out, and repot +into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and placing them in +a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again; after which freely +expose them to the weather until heavy rains in autumn, or the approach +of frost, renders it necessary to house them for the winter. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to remove +filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in standing in +corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange frequently, as +it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the plants and a pleasing +variety in the house. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is advisable to +keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat. Strike cuttings of +choice sorts for winter bearing. + +Melons.--The same as advised for _Cucumbers_, as they both delight in +plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give them +good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up early +on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, and the +plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never allow any to +fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears, apply lime to the +parts affected. Old plants cut back should be stimulated to grow freely. + +Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those +from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal +waterings at the roots and by syringings. + +Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90 deg. to 95 deg. by day and from +70 deg. to 75 deg. by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing +plants and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the +pots. + +Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and day as +soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully ripened, +in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at a good heat. +Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up the bunches, and +maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty of air, but do not +syringe the bunches. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought +into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at +every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house dry. +The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. Some +judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants, that +they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by drought +in hot sunny days. + +The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them +sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other +considerations will permit. + +Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy +compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather lumpy +character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority. Particular +attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially to the crock +at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it matters but +little how much depth of drainage material rests upon it, the soil will +soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the final shift should be +given in good time to those intended to flower in the autumn. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal parts of +peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small portion of sand. +Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the +pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the compost, +passed through a fine seive. After the pot has been gently struck on the +potting-bench to settle the soil, the surface must then be made level +with a flat piece of wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or +saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly over the surface, do not cover with +soil, and water with a fine rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and +be kept shaded from the sun. + +Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is +generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from +me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat +containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and +also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot and +frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen. + +Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted out +in the open ground. + +Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the adornment +of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in fibrous peat, +broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young plants to be +frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the shoots while +growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those again to be stopped +until the plants have attained a size sufficient to warrant their +blooming. + +Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in +bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over, +to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature their +growth. + +Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the +summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it has +attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can be +easily formed into a neat, compact specimen. + +Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes, +Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent +attention as to watering, shifting, &c. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove plants +intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at all times; +with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur, the humidity +that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be dissipated by +a free circulation of air when bright weather returns. Keep a free +circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour to supply an +abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day; and +dispense with shading as much as possible by using it only during a few +hours of the hottest part of the day. + +Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them neatly +tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give them +a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe them +frequently overhead. + +Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month is the +most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish to grow fine +specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they may +not require to be shifted for several years, as then the plants grow +much finer and flower better than when annually shifted. Now, as soon +as they have done flowering they commence growing, when they should +have plenty of heat and moisture until they have completed their +pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced to a comparative state of +rest by gradually withholding water until they show flower; then to +be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the +root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to grow. As all +the plants belonging to this genus push their flowers downwards, it is +advisable to have them elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers +can get through and show themselves to advantage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are +swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the +foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist. +Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop ripens, +curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before they reach +maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be regularly supplied +with water, and some liquid manure added about once a week to assist the +second crop. Keep down red spider by the application of sulphur in the +manner so frequently advised of late. Give the fruit that is ripening +the benefit of the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that shade +it. + +Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a comparatively +cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit daily, and gather +before it is overripe and loses its flavour. + +Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of the +advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of air and +sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely to +the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but a +circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at the +same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions to +afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by frequent +syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other available surface +until the fruit begins to change colour, when the atmosphere and soil +should be kept rather dry, to improve the fruit's flavour. See to the +stools from which fruit have been cut. Earth them up, so as to cause +suckers to strike root. Give them a brisk bottom heat, and proper +supplies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance for the +suckers from the declining strength of the parent plant as long as +possible. It is now a good time to start a lot into fruit, as they will +have two or three most favourable months for swelling, and will come +in at a season when they are in very general request. Keep the bark-bed +moderately moist, as in that state it will retain its heat much longer +than if it is allowed to get dry. + +Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as it +is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too far +advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep longer +than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do not allow +plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, which, despite +every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the berries and spoil +them. The outside borders of the late houses should be watered and +mulched, if the weather continue dry. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs, Fuchsias, +Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan Lilies. Strict +attention must be paid to all plants in these structures that they +do not suffer from the want of water. Continue to stop over-luxuriant +growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens. On the evenings of hot, dry +days, after the plants have been watered, give them a slight syringing, +or sprinkling, over the leaves, and also the ground upon which they are +standing. + +Aotus gracillimus.--When done blooming, to be cut down close to the pot. + +Aphelexis and Helichrysums.--When past their best state, cut the +flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady place +until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be repotted. + +Chrysanthemums.--Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf +stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out in +rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago. + +Cinerarias.--Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow seed. + +Fuchsias.--Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings. + +Leschenaultias.--When they are going out of bloom, or past their best, +remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool place to +start again. + +Kalosanthes.--When done blooming, the flower-stems and all straggling +growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens for another +season. + +Pelargoniums.--Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as advised +lately. + +Pimelea spectabilis.--When that and the other kinds have done blooming, +to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place to break. + +Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the _Pimeleas_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as visible. +The _Gishurst Compound_ is worthy of a trial. Follow former instructions +as to moisture and air. + +Ixoras.--When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be started +in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended on baskets, +or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the roots, and +frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little fire-heat applied in +the afternoon will be of service to them. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing towards +maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the atmosphere should +be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely every fine day. Keep the +foliage clean and healthy, and clear from insects, and do not allow the +young shoots to get crowded. + +Melons.--Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep the +plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root, with an +abundance of air in fine weather. + +Pines.--Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting and +succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the application +of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by saturation. The +walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept constantly moist, and +frequent syringings to be given to the young stock. Continue all other +routine operations according to former directions. + +Strawberries.--Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong, rich +loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have made roots +enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in small pots, to +be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer to lay them in their +fruiting-pots. The principal object should be, to attain plants of a +moderate growth, well matured and rested before forcing time. + +Vines.--The early houses, when they have been cleared of their fruit, +and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed and +repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free exposure +to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be encouraged to +swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure water, and by being +carefully thinned, more especially if they are wanted to keep late. +A little fire-heat will be necessary in unfavourable weather, with an +abundance of air day and night. + + + + +AUGUST. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water. +Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and exhausted +stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the autumn is fast +approaching, the sooner the new growths are encouraged the better, that +they may have sufficient time to mature them. All greenhouse plants will +now be benefited by exposure to the natural atmosphere: the dews +are more refreshing and invigorating than artificial moisture or the +application of the syringe. + +Finish _potting_ all specimen plants; for if left until later in the +season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with roots, +and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of water at the +roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that of surrounding it +with fresh soil for months when the roots should be in a comparatively +dormant state. + +Pelargoniums.--Continue to head them down, and to propagate the +cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the open +ground. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during warm +weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias, and other +such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them betimes. +The _AEschynanthus grandiflorus_, _Aphelandra cristata_, _Eranthemum +pulchellum_, Justicias, and any others that are intended for the +decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part of winter, +should be carefully looked over, and shifted without delay if they want +more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly, and to be exposed to +as much sun as they will bear without scorching the foliage, to induce +stocky growth. Nothing is more injurious to stove plants than to keep +them growing late in the season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the +wood, which will render them more liable to injuries in winter and more +unproductive of flowers the following season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Melons.--The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept rather +dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable weather. A +steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops. + +Peaches.--If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced houses, +it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible, that the air, +rain, and dews may have free access to act both beneficially on the +trees and to keep down red spider. In those houses which have been +treated as advised in former Calendars, the principal object now should +be to get the wood properly ripened. The late houses to be treated in +a similar manner when the fruit is gathered. Where the trees in +peach-houses have been recently planted, and are not yet in a bearing +state, the shoots will require to be trained carefully, and insects to +be kept down. + +Pines.--The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended to +with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate the whole +body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is moist while +the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest successions for +early forcing next season. + +Strawberries.--Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to +force in pots until you have a sufficient number. + +Vines.--Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a little +fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are better +flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is delayed to +a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray laterals that +begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little at a time, as +disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to fruit trees. The +young Vines in pots to have every attention, to secure as much growth +and healthy vigour as possible while the growing season lasts. Allow all +young planted Vines to ramble freely without stopping them so closely, +as is frequently practised. Before wasps and flies do much mischief +to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass should be fixed over the top lights and +front lights that are opened for the admission of air. Remove decayed +berries as soon as observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit +dry and free from dust. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Bulbs.--The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made as +soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each season; +to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be potted +in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in a dry +situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan or coal +ashes. + +Camellias.--The large, old specimens that have set their flower-buds to +be carefully supplied with water; for if they are allowed to get too dry +at the roots they are apt to drop their buds. Young vigorous plants, on +the contrary, will require to be watered rather sparingly, to prevent +them making a second growth. + +Cinerarias.--Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to +watering, &c., cause a check to their growth. + +Climbers.--To have a succession late in the season when flowers +become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose, more +especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises. + +New Holland Plants.--If any have been standing out of doors for some +time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender varieties to +the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the danger and risk +of exposure to wet or windy weather. + +Soils.--Now is a favourable time to collect soils of different sorts for +future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters will become +evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould, decomposed sheep, +deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old Cucumber, Melon, and other +such soils, to be put in separate heaps in a shed, or any other dry +place, protected from drenching rains. Each sort to be numbered, or +named, that no mistake may occur when wanted. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied +with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other stove +plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the water to +be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up early in the +afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be made in the +daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air may be given to +the plants. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed early, +for the benefit of the second crop of fruit. + +Melons.--Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden supply +at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and become +worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may receive the +benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the sun's rays till it +is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water to the late crops, and +thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to paint the interior of the +frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with slight syringings and shutting +up early while the sun shines upon it, will keep down insects. + +Mushrooms.--Collect some very short stable-litter and horse-droppings, +and turn them over frequently with the addition of a small portion of +turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When moderately dry, to be +packed on shelves or in boxes, and be well-beaten down in layers four or +five inches thick, till the bed is the required thickness--from a foot +to eighteen inches; for success will depend in a great measure upon the +solidity of the bed. To be spawned when there is a brisk heat. + +Pines.--If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been added, +the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any approach to a +burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots, &c. Fruit recently +started and swelling off to have every encouragement for the next two +months. Shut up early, to secure a strong amount of solar heat. Keep all +the growing stock warm and moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day. + +Vines.--The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe, would be +benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights are required to +remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all laterals kept down. +When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and when the weather is wet +or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied, will expel damps, and be in +other respects very beneficial to them. Stop all useless growths in the +late houses; do not remove the leaves to expose the fruit to the sun, +unless they are very thick indeed, as they are the principal agents by +which nutriment is carried to the berries. + +Vines in Pots.--When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the +north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to keep +the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will protect them +from sudden changes. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or +in pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms, +preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and washing +all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all crevices and +corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting there. When by +scrubbing, brushing, &c., you have brought everything to the ground, let +no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish, &c., off the ground, +and also out of the house. If painting and glazing are necessary, the +sooner they are done the better, leaving the house entirely open for +three weeks or a month, that the effluvium from white lead, which is +prejudicial to plants, may pass off before the lights are put on again. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants +that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as soon +as they have filled their pots with roots. + +Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the +bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there is +a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will allow of +the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot. + +Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be +necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally--and especially +that of all those whose period of excitement is continued over a certain +portion of the autumn--so arranged and circumstanced as to secure its +perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have it "well ripened." For +that purpose it is necessary to avoid the application of moisture +beyond what is necessary to prevent a decided check in the growth of the +plants, to expose them to the influence of light, by not suffering them +to crowd or overhang each other, and to prevent from what cause soever +the too sudden declension of the average temperature to which they are +exposed. + +The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have plenty of moisture and +heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and then +it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the supply of +water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house. + +Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may be separated or +potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in baskets. +Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts, and peg them +altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the summit place +your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another plant, and with +four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go where they please +in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for sustenance upon the +atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Peaches.--It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off the +early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing towards a +state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely indispensable, +but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the lights are off or +on, attention may now be given to the repairs of glass or woodwork +where necessary, and to finish with a coat of paint and whitewashing, if +possible. + +Pines.--The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over in +hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water. Continue +to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the parent plants, +as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if left out of the +ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung pits, as all Pine +plants, in whatever situation, will require a lively bottom heat of 90 +deg.. + +Vines.--The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and rather +early (about four o'clock), in order to dispense, if possible, with +fires, giving air by seven o'clock in the morning, and increasing it +abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished at intervals, in +accordance with the state of the weather. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that they +do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to be +given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry +towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps. + +Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a +cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient. + +New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that have +been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or frame, where +they can be protected from heavy rains. + +Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut down are +about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the roots slightly +trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as advised early in +July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; when potted, +to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, and shaded until they have +made fresh roots, when they should be placed out in an open situation to +grow firm and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots; and to be placed +on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow +the seed immediately it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of +any other perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual +increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is still +essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed with, +except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given to the +Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, Dipladenias, +and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil of large +specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in a +mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf +mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom +heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sunshine. + +Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their growth. +Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing freely in +pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft +water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or other +such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good soaking of +water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry atmosphere is +necessary to ripen the fruit. + +Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are growing +in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or renewed, to +produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker is apt to set +in and destroy the plants. + +Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as +recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be made +very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable +when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh loam +at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it as firm as +possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much better quality +than if partly-exhausted soil is used. + +Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them +occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The growth +of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, &c., to +be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an +abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air to the +young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of the atmosphere, +to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against winter. +Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any +plants recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled +overhead every afternoon, and the house closed early. The sprinkling +will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin +to grow. + +Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the +ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a little +fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late +vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more +especially when the external temperature ranges below 50 deg.. + + + + +SEPTEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Balsams.--Give them a good watering when they show indications of +drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation appears, +as saturation will be death to them. + +Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When potted, to +be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the early part of the +month, and covered with some porous material--such as coal ashes, old +spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other material that will serve +to keep the roots not only cool and un-acted on by atmospheric changes, +but which, from being moderately damp, will not abstract moisture from +the roots, but keep them uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs, +if obtained now, may be had in flower at various periods throughout the +winter and early spring. _Amaryllis Johnsoni_, _vittata_, and many +other varieties, are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and +orange-flowered species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the +varieties of _Sparaxis tricolor_, are desirable plants that may be +easily bloomed by gentle forcing. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Pot off seedlings into small pots, and keep +them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the best kinds; +they will strike readily in a common frame. + +Chrysanthemums.--They should now be stopped for the last time, to +produce a late succession of bloom. + +Climbers.--Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or stakes +may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from the rim of +the pot upwards. + +Fuchsias.--To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young wood, +trimming the plants to handsome shapes. If placed or plunged in a little +bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming till Christmas. + +Lilium lancifolium.--Supply them cautiously with water, as advised for +Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong their +beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the foot of a +south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be given sparingly +until their tops show signs of decay, when they may be laid on +their sides till potting time. The same treatment is recommended for +_Gladioli_ and plants of like habit. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are +finishing or have completed their season's growth in the coolest part +of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air, and rather +cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free growth should +be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but very little air and +a liberal supply of water during very fine sunshiny weather. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object should +be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is necessary to be +given by exposing them to light and air, and preserving the leaves from +injury, as it is upon their healthy action that the future crop depends. + +Cherries.--Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early forcing, +to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy, situation, to +continue the regular root action, upon which much of their future +success will depend. + +Figs.--Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of fruit is +ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early forcing, to +be treated as advised for Cherries. + +Peaches.--If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have performed +their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with sulphur. Trees +in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries. + +Pines.--Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth where +it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied occasionally +with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be supplied with +water at the roots, as inattention to that particular during hot weather +is very likely to cause some of the plants to fruit prematurely. + +Strawberries.--The stock intended for forcing to be carefully attended +to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when necessary, to +be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air, and a little weak +liquid manure, will assist to produce stout healthy plants for forcing. + +Vines.--When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house as +cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and expose +the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as possible. +Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes +occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest out-door +greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to be carefully +examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the soil or drainage +of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other indications of +the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the soil, by carefully +turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can generally be picked +out. If they are not visible on the outside of the ball, a small peg +stuck in will direct particular attention to it until the intruder is +removed. When staging the plants, a pleasing variety may be introduced +by placing a few on inverted pots. Sufficient space to be given to +each plant to allow the air to circulate freely around. If there is +not sufficient room for all, the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be +rejected, or wintered in a pit or vinery. When housed, all the air +possible should be given in fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the +lights, and only reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in +the weather take place. + +Heliotropes.--Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy state for +winter flowering. + +Mignonette.--Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring blooming. + +Pinks.--Pot _Anne Boleyne_ and other sorts, to be well established +before they are wanted for forcing. + +Roses.--Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under +glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate growth +and early blooming. + +Violets.--Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or leaf +mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a pit or +frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early spring. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is +advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy +shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70 deg. to +80 deg., with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas, +_Epidendrum Skinneri_, Laelias, _Lycaste Skinneri_, and _Odontoglossum +grande_, to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed +occasionally. Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except +such as are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as +possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening influence +of the sun. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the atmosphere. +Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight fires will be +useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening the fruit; and but +little syringing and watering will be required from this time forward. + +Melons.--Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air, +shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In whatever +structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up the bottom +heat by a gentle fire, or by linings. + +Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the air +night and day, and will, therefore, require but little attention, except +an occasional washing with the engine, to remove insects and to allow +the foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a blank +in the house is to be filled up, it may be done as soon as the crop is +gathered from the open wall; and the crop to be expected from the same +tree next season will depend upon the care with which it is removed, as +there will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the tree to +make fresh roots, and to get sufficiently established before winter. + +Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken by +giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the plants +weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient command of +heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at night and on +cloudy days. + +Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as it +is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made after +this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is useful to keep +the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to be frequently +and carefully looked over and all tainted berries removed, and the +foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat is also necessary where +the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes +necessary to keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the wood. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as +possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when +many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause them to +produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off +at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the external air will +cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally supplied when they +are first taken into the house, as the dry boards on which they may +stand, or the elevated situation and free circulation of air will +occasion a more frequent want of that element than when they stood on +the moist earth. However, by no means go to the extreme, but give it +only when evidently necessary. + +Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the +greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth is +matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at Christmas, +or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the bloom-buds have +swelled to a good size, when they will require but very little forcing +to start them into bloom. + +Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the success +of early forcing depends upon early potting. + +Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas. + +Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been growing +freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a rather +succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked by this +pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an application +of sulphur. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence with +the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be better +prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the winter +season. + +Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by +shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in a +compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in a +soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that they are +liable to rot off at the base of the stem. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a little +liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the borders, to +induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of the wood and an +early rest. + +Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if not +yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary. + +Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still remaining +in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one end of the +pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house should then be +prepared for the best of the succession plants for the second crop next +summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, although they cannot be +expected to produce as fine fruit as if earlier in the season, will, +nevertheless, be found very useful, and should have every attention +given to them while the season continues favourable. To be placed in the +warmest corner of the house, and to be supplied when dry with a little +liquid manure. Continue to grow on the young stock while the weather +continues favourable; for fine sunny days and moist growing nights are +all that we can desire. A good portion of solar heat to be secured by +shutting up early. On cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep +up the temperature to 70 deg. towards morning. + +Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well +ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much +fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if, from +appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at rest, the +pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the Grapes not yet +ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air to be given to the +house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the vapour that ascends, if +not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will cause the Grapes to become +mouldy and worthless. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to be +taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be placed in a +gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they have made fresh +roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the dull, dreary months +of the approaching winter. + +American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early spring, +the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be plunged in +the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the forcing-house from +November until February, as they may be required. The most suitable for +such a purpose are the Azaleas of the _nudiflora_ class with various +hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_, _Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of +sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L. thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_, +Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora Canadense_. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the glass as +possible, with plenty of air at all favourable opportunities. To be duly +supplied with water. + +Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of the +buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds, leaving not +more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the largest and smallest +to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves, if necessary, to be +washed clean. + +Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias. + +Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the +application of the Gishurst infallible compound. + +Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds may be +sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of sheltering +them from frost and damp; but if you have no such convenience, it is +advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. The seed is separated +most easily from the pulp by bruising the berries amongst dry sand, and +allowing it to stand in the sun, or in a warm place, until the moisture +has evaporated, when the seed and sand will be intermixed, and in a fit +state to be sown. + +Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas, and +give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the weather +continues favourable. + +New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a considerable +share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be stopped, to maintain +symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant eye should be kept upon +them almost daily, to see that neither mildew, green fly, nor other such +enemies be allowed to injure them. + +Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer, the +sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better. Clean +the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which they are +growing. + +Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiae, and other such plants to be gradually +curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the winter and their +season of rest. + +Tropaeolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T. +tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the season, +begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to grow slowly +through the winter; but if there is no appearance of growth--which is +best for their future success--the roots should be kept dormant, in a +cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, and protected from mice. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn. +Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry. +Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not so +much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the house. +Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain a healthy +atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aerides, Dendrobiums, +Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the application of a +high temperature, with much moisture and less shading, to make further +and sometimes considerable growth. + +Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some time +longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a comparatively dormant +state by a gradual diminution in the supply of water, and a decrease in +temperature, with less shading. + +Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh +material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable never +to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to get too +far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong fermentation has +passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in it for some time. +The temperature to be kept from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with the admission +of air for several hours daily. + +Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived at, +or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but little +attention will be necessary, still that little will be required to keep +them clear of insects and of the leaves as they become sufficiently +ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. The old surface of the +soil of those grown in pots to be removed, and the same quantity of +fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. Remove them without further +delay, if not already done, as advised in the early part of the month, +to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted; or if not wanted +until a sharp frost sets in, they should be protected from its icy +grasp. + +Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries. + +Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening the +late fruit, they will in some places still require the assistance of a +good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of +the day. + +Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended for +Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be planted in the +place of any that may be worn out. The choice should be made of young +trees that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had been +moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after the leaves have dropped, +be sure not to leave them too crowded; but if the summer pruning, as +frequently advised, have been properly done, but very little, if any, +will be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees in the early +houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them +gently with a few pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright +shoots to be removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from +insects. + +Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine management. +Whilst fine weather continues air may be given liberally; and shut up +earlier in the afternoon to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants +swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk temperature, both at +top and bottom, from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night, allowing it to rise to +80 deg. on sunny days with a steady bottom heat of about 80 deg.. When +watering is necessary let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten +the whole of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted in the +summer months should now be shifted, if they have grown freely; they +should then be plunged in a brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or +pit, from which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any +remaining suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged +in a brisk heat in the nursing pit. + +Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it is +intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, that +sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the buds to +become more plump and prominent. The border of the early house to be +thatched with straw, or covered with any other such material, to protect +it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in some situations to cover +the borders of the houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late, +to prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Continue to look +over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or tainted berries; applying +gentle fires only when necessary to expel damps, with a free circulation +of air--as a warm, close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the +long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as +the fruit is gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any +shoots to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared; +the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue to +pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and cut out +every decayed berry. + + + + +OCTOBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a portion +of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants kept supplied +with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately moist throughout. +Air to be given every day, and also a portion at night, if the weather +continue mild. + +Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in +a convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the +forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time ago, a +few of them may now be excited into growth. + +Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a +showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and shaded +for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the greenhouse, +and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a fine display. + +Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered +sparingly until they begin to grow. + +Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs, that +a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during winter. + +Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants to be +potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan until wanted +for forcing. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature to +decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aerides, Dendrobiums, +&c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80 deg. by day and 70 deg. +by night, the Cattleyas will require 10 deg. or 15 deg. less to bring +them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant excitement they +will continue to sprout buds from their pseudo-bulbs, which generally +adds to the size of the plant at the expense of the blooms. + +Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also _Gesnera +zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during winter. + +Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by giving +them larger pots if required. + +Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial +attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest season +of the year when flowers are scarce. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is necessary +to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty of top and +bottom heat. + +Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and whose +leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early rest. A +seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to trees in pots, +that they may be in a fit state for forcing early. + +Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give flavour to +the fruit. They will require little or no water after this. + +Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the +open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from the +nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space allotted to +them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after being repaired +and painted, they should be put upon the houses to protect the trees and +borders from unfavourable weather. + +Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to give it +flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist atmosphere. Water to +be given to the plants cautiously; every one to be examined before it +receives any, and manure water to be dispensed with altogether. The heat +of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing the linings. The crowns and +suckers that are planted in the tan to have no water; all they require +is attention in giving air and keeping up the heat. + +Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are +intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would +injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such +material had been used over the lights that open in houses containing +fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken down as little +mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks. Mice are sometimes +very troublesome in vineries at this season, and will spoil a whole +house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. Traps should, +therefore, be kept set, and every means used to prevent their ingress +from the garden. Cover the border when the trees are planted outside, +with a good coat of fern or any other such material before they become +saturated and chilled by the autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in +layers, beginning at the front of the border, the whole to be covered +with a thin layer of good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does +the straw on stacks. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will +require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and +regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, sometimes +droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises from the roots +being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the moisture, and +the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth. This is usually +brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as soon, therefore, as the +consequences are observed, the plants should be examined, and sufficient +water given to wet the ball of earth thoroughly. + +Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a late +Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid manure +will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection. If any +indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of sulphur, +when the foliage is damp, will banish it. + +Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by the +application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering is over, +and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be set aside in +any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept moderately dry. + +Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring protection +to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other structure, as near the +glass as possible. To be watered regularly; but, like all other plants, +care must be taken that they do not get too much at any time during the +winter. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and +repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in a gentle +bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the Cypripediums, +_Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to be supplied +with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other sorts--such as the +Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c., that are approaching their +dormant state--to be accommodated, if possible, with a drier and cooler +atmosphere. All fast-growing plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas, +&c.--that require large pots in summer, to be now turned out of their +pots, the soil to be shaken from them, and repotted into the smallest +sized pots that will contain them, without pruning the roots much at +this time. + +Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning, more +especially where they obstruct the light in any material degree. The +Combretums, Echites, Ipomsaeas, Mandevillas, late-blooming Passifloras, +Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, &c., which are still growing, +to be regulated with a more gentle hand, cutting out but little more +than barren shoots, and drawing the remainder into somewhat closer +festoons, to allow the more free admission of sunlight into the interior +of the house. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be making +progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up a good +heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable opportunities, to +get them strong and vigorous against the winter months. Stop mildew by +dusting the leaves with sulphur. + +Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous directions. +Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a genial +humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to keep them +sweet and free from mouldiness. + +Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is advisable +to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent the admission +of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis, whitewash the flues and +walls, and make every part of the house clean. Dress the trees with a +mixture of soft soap and sulphur in hot water; to be well rubbed in with +a brush or sponge. + +Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any decaying +berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time, and if any +plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept under the +Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a little fire heat +in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. Whatever system of +pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur, it is advisable, when +the brown scale is visible, to take off the loose bark, to wash them, +and the wires and rafters, with soft soap dissolved in hot water, using +a hard brush, being careful not to injure the buds; afterwards to apply +hot lime, made to the consistency of thick paint. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The decline of temperature and less watering must go on progressively, +more especially in dull weather, with free ventilation at all +favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold, use a little fire-heat +occasionally during the day, especially where there are many plants in +bloom, that ventilation may be given to expel damp and stagnant air. + +Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to be +shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots. The +compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, and one +part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and will thrive +tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost during the winter. +They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal ashes, and kept as near to +the glass as possible. + +Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse, +be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be given +carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded by mats, +or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by free +exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if they are +shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed. + +Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The soil +to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks at +the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant through the +winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and keeping the +plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a hotbed frame will +find it useful to start the seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no +such convenience may place their pots in a cold frame in a sheltered +situation, and upon a floor of rough stones overlaid with ashes. + +Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter the +better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should be +given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at all +favourable opportunities. + +Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the glass +as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of green fly, +and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a healthy condition. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot to +be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy pieces to +form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the tops and sides +of these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of some of +them vegetating than if they had been sown on a level surface where +the whole of the seed would be subjected to the same kind of treatment, +which might with ordinary care be either too wet or too dry. The pot +to be set in a saucer that contains a little water, which will feed the +whole mass with sufficient moisture without a drop being required on +the surface of the pot. The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the +stove where evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do +not like to be continually kept close under a bell-glass. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould, +supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of atmospheric +moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every second joint, +and setting the fruit as the blossom expands. + +Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is large, +to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or fence, packed +in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any other such covering, +to protect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted for +forcing. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs +occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat +during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in the +circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves, +and the destruction of insects. + +Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the +spring; also the Ixiae and Gladioli, and various other Irideae; and +also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil composed +of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, or +substitute for, the peat. + +Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as +specimens in early spring. + +Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers +and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned. + +Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be +of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy +rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; the principal +shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless +ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage a sturdy, +short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in +one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the +second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length before +stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they are not +sufficiently strong to carry a crop. + +Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves. +If the lights are still off any of the early houses the sooner they are +put on the better. An abundance of air to be given. + +Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60 +deg. to 65 deg. at night, with an increase during the day in accordance +with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy, +foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity +to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak +and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession plants that +are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small +quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will +require covering with mats at night: when covered let every other light +be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass off. When the covering is +off it will escape through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all +opportunities for giving a little air. If it can be done every day, so +much the better for the health of the plants. + +Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for +some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature wood +cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If the houses +are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst decaying +berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for +holding on for a long time. + + + + +NOVEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it +is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth free +from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire to +be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free +circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the afternoon, +will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of ordinary +frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night +coverings, if possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat. + +American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy +Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required for +winter forcing. + +Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent the +flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the +leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their beauty depends +upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of +leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be +their ornamental appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory. + +Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward a +shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for cutting +where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the flowers like +the single varieties. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric +heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and +unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The +thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the +day exceed 60 deg., with a fall of 8 deg. or 10 deg. during the night. + +Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of +easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they +can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in +bloom. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the +linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the +frames. + +Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be +filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken +from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken +to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_ +Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and +_Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are +of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly. + +Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, +to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the +spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so +that it may range from 60 deg. to 65 deg.. The winter-fruiting plants to +range 10 deg. higher. + +Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the +house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be +generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets +in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful +hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to +ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the +succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines +have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the +vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by +being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut +up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none +to succulents and plants in a state of rest. + +Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for +forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of +importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed +with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and +about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to +plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced +immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss +and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c. +The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted +early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small +quantities when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any +out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or +five inches of old tan. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere +if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely. + +Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most +forward may be accelerated by a little heat. + +Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be +stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the +pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down +gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by +diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more +liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen +kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, +&c., to be favoured with the warmest situation. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made +for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a +gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as +closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light +soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that +may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied +with an abundance of light and air. + +Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting +into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal +ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and +where they will commence rooting immediately. + +Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as +advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but +if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The +trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and +then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and +one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. Trees in pots to be shifted, +or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when +it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards +placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves. + +Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be +encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to +"show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep +them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their +fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state +of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined +frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and +other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves +and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the +leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no +water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such +plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in +consequence. + +Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed +should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and +placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by +boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude +light and the inclemency of the weather. + +Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at +work is the best place for both. + +Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit +is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from +anything likely to create mould or damp. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead +leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever +they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be +disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission of +air. + +Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The _A. +Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be succeeded +by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other varieties. As +decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable +where they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty. + +Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid +state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full and +prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required early, to be +forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and +such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or +importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light +situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality +sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely +through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and see +that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid, +even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require +attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable +day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of that +agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat, +and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended +from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the most suitable +for a picturesque and pleasing effect. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough +cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of +Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed. + +Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled +within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber +or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions. +To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few days +until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in +each pot, and pressed by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a +week they will be up; to be then thinned out, according to the strength +of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle +watering. When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to +be earthed up as high as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and +watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become +too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be +stopped, to cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The +plants to be placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese +Dwarf_ and _Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing. + +Figs.--A temperature of about 40 deg. will suit them at present; if +allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be +removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up. + +Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an +application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of summer +heat (76 deg.), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose services are +required before much excitement takes place at top. + +Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be +very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, more +especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of about 70 +deg., with a steady top temperature of about 60 deg. during the day, and +about 55 deg. during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively +comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the temperature to decline +so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to endanger their +restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite +them into a growth that would be immature for want of solar light and +heat. A moderate application of water will also be necessary. + +Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of +time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly healed +before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early spring, +bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing +should either be placed within the protection of the house appropriated +to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when +necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in +the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off. +All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All +weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to +cause dampness, mildew, or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off +the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly. + +Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as +possible with the admission of light. + +Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and +recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room, +conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful +attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable +occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with +air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and +the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in preference to night +heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate +fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The +water to be always tepid when applied to the roots or branches when they +require it. + +New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold +draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same house +with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a +part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from the +top lights only. + +Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for +out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It +is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be kept +clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that +their roots be kept in a healthy, active state. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be +procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle heat. +The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at once in +the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames, +may be made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus. + +Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches. + +Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of +bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little attention, +upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so, +to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and +steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter. +The early nursing-box for young plants should be well supplied with +linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair. + +Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed. +The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to +be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the +temperature of the house. + +Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being +thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and +tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at +night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of +forcing. + +Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season +should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a +moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with safety. +When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require +some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or shutters--to protect +them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is +now required at this, that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and +moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young +plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to +exclude the steam from the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts +of the plants. + +Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the +old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, to +produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the wood, +and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with +a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation, +and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their +leaves to be pruned immediately. + + + + +DECEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as +possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or +rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too high--say +greenhouse from 50 deg. to 55 deg. by day and from 40 deg. to 45 deg. by +night; conservatory 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night. Chrysanthemums +to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early +Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention +now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season, +as the least saturation or interference with the root action will cause +the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. _Poinsettia +pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a noble +ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ and +_rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at this +season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the +other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. _Gesnera +zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of the leaves +contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower. + +Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants +it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They can bear a +good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without sustaining any very +serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat +without serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently +death to the plants. They will require but very little water, especially +the large specimens, which should be very particularly examined as to +their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or +withholding of water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to +keep the plants from growing. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The +temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of exciting +premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to +purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the +pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so +do not loosen the soil so as to injure the roots near the surface. Keep +every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied +up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various +bulbs will now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will +require but little or no water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is +advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, +by themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove +temperature to keep them safe and sound. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted. + +Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature +steadily at or near 60 deg.. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every +three or four weeks, to produce successional crops. + +Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture +of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the main crop +to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every favourable +opportunity, with a day temperature from 70 deg. to 75 deg. and from 55 +deg. to 60 deg. at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention. +Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, admitting a little +fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being +injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant +watching will be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature, +having materials at hand to assist in case of frost. + +Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the Vines +by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as advised +last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the atmosphere +regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood should be syringed +frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, kept full of water. The +roots, if outside, to be protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth +until the buds are fairly swelled. As it is advisable to proceed very +slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range from 55 deg. to 60 +deg. by day and from 45 deg. to 50 deg. by night, and even rather +under than over the above scale. Late Grapes will require great care to +preserve them from damp. Look over them frequently, and dry the house by +fire during the day. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be removed +as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an application of +flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented from making its +appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings, using a little +fire heat at the same time. Great caution is now necessary in giving +water to the plants, more especially to such as have not well matured +their growth, and are in a rather soft state. It is also advisable +to look over them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be +noticed, and the necessary supply of water be given. All pots to be +turned around occasionally to keep the plants uniform. + +Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no more +water than is really required. Keep down green fly. + +Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to keep out +frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive their final +shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable weather. Every one +that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be kept down by +fumigating. The most forward to have the lightest place in the house, +close to the glass, with sufficient space for the air to circulate +freely around the foliage of each. + +Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be avoided, +except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40 deg., +or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom to be arranged +in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted bass under +the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened to secure the shoots +and the better formation of the plant, obviates the too-extensive use of +sticks, a superfluity of which is at all times objectionable. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the application +of water are more especially required, as there is not a single feature +in the cultivation of plants during the winter in which the amateur is +more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury +is sustained, than in the application of water either in its fluid or +vaporous state. If applied to the soil in superabundance, the roots, +being inactive, are certain to sustain some degree of injury; and if +it is applied in excess to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the +exhalations from the leaves of the plants will be checked in consequence +of the density of the medium that surrounds them when they will be sure +to suffer. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A +one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most suitable +for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and congenial for +their healthy vegetation and growth. + +Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the buds, +and keep every plant clean and neat. + +Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during severe +weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those that have +done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that they may not +receive a check from being over-dry at the roots. + +Vines.--Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to produce +fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere to "break" the early +Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week. Keep the wood +generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution as before advised. +As the most essential point in early forcing is to secure a healthy and +vigorous root action, it is advisable, if the Vines are planted +inside, to excite the roots by an occasional application of water at a +temperature from 85 deg. to 90 deg.. It the Vines are planted outside, +a steady heat of about 60 deg. should be maintained by the fermenting +matter placed on the border to be frequently turned over, and protected +with dry litter from the frost or other unfavourable weather. Houses +intended to commence forcing the early part of next month, to have some +fermenting materials placed on the borders to excite the roots a little +before the Vines are started, which will be of some assistance to make +the buds push strongly and without much loss of time. To induce the +buds to break regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is +frequently necessary to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward +buds to the lowest level, and to elevate the most backward. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a +confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat +than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must be +counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes condensed on +the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the beauty of the +flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The best corrective +for such unfavourable results is to be found in keeping the temperature +as low as may be consistent with the safety of the plants, and in +withholding moisture as much as possible whenever the glass is affected +by frost. See that the young stock of Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, +Persian Cyclamens, and other such flowers, that are grown especially +for winter, are accommodated with a light, airy situation, and receive +regular attention as regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums +until they are thoroughly dry, and keep down insects. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and +only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be +accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60 deg. by day, and +50 deg. by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before +the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do not +expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our collections +of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of growth, and +various kinds of temperature and climate, it is difficult to cultivate +in one house a miscellaneous collection of them so satisfactorily as +where there are two divisions, the one commanding a higher temperature, +with more moisture, than the other. Where there is no such division, +advantage may be taken of a forcing-pit, or other such house, to which +any of them now in a growing state may be removed, and thus their +growth may be promoted without injury to the general collection. For +the general collection a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are +now desirable, as no plants are more benefited by a season of rest than +Orchids. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +All Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be secured from frost +and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an excellent plunging +medium for such of these as are wanted very early. Keep up a succession +of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb, Sea-kale, &c., according to the +demand. + +Cucumbers.--Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too many +appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time, and now +appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour again by a +judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of a top dressing +of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of liquid manure +occasionally. + +Peaches.--A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as beneficial to +Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it can but rarely be +made use of, in consequence of the difference in the structure of the +interior, moisture must be supplied by other means, such as syringing +and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when warm. A few trees, in pots, are +useful for early forcing, as they can be easily plunged in a pit or any +other convenient place where a mild regular bottom heat can be supplied. +The trees for this purpose must have been grown and established for some +time in pots. + +Pines.--A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up to +carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the winter. +A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management of the +succession plants. + +Strawberries.--If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the strongest +plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and placed in +a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the back or front +shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for forcing, to be placed +near the glass with a free admission of air on fine days. + +Vines.--It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with a low +temperature--say, 55 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, to be increased +5 deg. more until they break, when it may be raised to 60 deg. at night, +and 65 deg. in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees +by sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they +break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines +are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it +constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the loose +bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished by an +application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient composition +of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the fruit is ripe, a +little fire heat will be necessary in frosty weather to prevent the +vapour that adheres to the glass on the inside being frozen, for the +moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon the bunches causing injury to +the bloom, and decay to the berries. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest degree +compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In damp, foggy +weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during the day +to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather it is +advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more especially at +night. From 45 deg. by night to 50 deg. by day will be sufficient +for the conservatory, and 40 deg. for the mixed greenhouse. To give a +pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is advisable +to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of flower to be +removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the forcing-pit. All plants +in these and other departments to be regularly looked over, removing +the dead leaves and tying in straggling branches. The surface soil to +be stirred a little, and some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are +benefited by exposure to frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked +or frozen surface every morning, until the whole is turned over and +penetrated by the frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are +destroyed, and the soil considerably ameliorated. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots if they +require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately +through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get thoroughly +dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to pull or to cut +them off too close to the stem, by which the flower-shoots would be very +likely to get injured. + +Camellias.--Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to +great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to drop +their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often fall off +without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes in the +temperature to which they are exposed. For instance: when the buds are +nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them to push too rapidly; +and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at the time checks their +growth, and in other cases causes them to fall. The heat required to +expand the blossom-buds is about 60 deg. by day, and 50 deg. by night. +If this be attended to, the plants will continue in flower for a great +length of time, as the plants in that heat are not excited to grow. +A little weak manure water to be given occasionally to the blooming +plants. + +Chrysanthemums.--When they begin to fade, to be removed to the north +side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan, leaves, or +sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter. + +Cytisuses.--Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the +coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at all +favourable opportunities. + +Orange Trees.--These, or other such plants that have not been recently +potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil and +supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping the +leaves clean and healthy. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of +heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the +freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10 deg. or 15 deg. above +freezing, we would advise from 50 deg. by night to 60 deg. by day, for +the stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer +from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and either +the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of the hothouse +would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias, Euphorbias, Luculias, +&c. Such plants should be carefully tied up and placed in the +most conspicuous situations, or some of them may be removed to the +conservatory so as to prolong their season of blooming. + +Allamandas.--Continue the temperature and treatment as lately advised. +To be potted, as also _Stephanotis_, &c., and trained preparatory to +starting them into growth, about the beginning of the new year. + +Forcing-pit.--Introduce such plants as are generally used for forcing, +especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley, Sweet Briar, +Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and bulbous +plants. + +Ixoras.--To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to have +plenty of air at favourable opportunities. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants are +ridged out and in action. + +Peaches.--It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and some +other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing in pots, +and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage of being able +to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which is of the greatest +importance in early forcing. Those who have good established trees, in +pots, may now start them in a moderate heat. Air to be given liberally +in favourable weather, and the syringe to be used freely over them +morning and evening. The surface soil to be stirred up and kept open, +and a supply of manure water to be given previous to starting them. The +trees in the late houses to receive whatever pruning is necessary, and +to be cleansed of every particle of scale, and afterwards washed with a +composition of soft soap and sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to +be carefully removed. + +Pines.--During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw, &c., +will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be of more +service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the temperature. When +a supply of fruit is required throughout the year, it is sometimes +necessary, at this season, to subject some of the plants to a high +temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such as are most likely +to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by themselves, where a +temperature of from 60 deg. to 65 deg. by night, and from 70 deg. to 75 +deg. by day, with about 80 deg. of bottom heat, will be the most certain +treatment for starting them into fruit. The other plants can then be +supplied with a moderate temperature until the beginning of February; +by such treatment a succession of fruit will be prolonged. Do not suffer +the linings of dung-beds to decline, keep up, if possible, a temperature +of 50 deg. at night, and 60 deg. by day, with a little air at every +favourable opportunity. + +Potatoes.--Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in +three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit, or +in any other place where there is some heat, they will, in due time, be +useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames or pits. + +Raspberries.--When a few early dishes would be considered a treat, +if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the +Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common +care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting +them. + +Vines.--When started and until the buds are fairly broken, endeavour to +keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with the lowest part of +the Vine, and if that should not be found sufficient to induce the buds +to start regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, the rod +should be bent so as to bring the most forward buds to the lowest level, +and elevating those that are backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up +by sprinkling the floor and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly +every morning and evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the +supply of moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots +to some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not done +as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful for early +work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines in houses, +from the hazardous operation of early excitement. Increase the +temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to swell, or are +starting a little. The fermenting material in the house to be stirred up +occasionally. This fermenting material should, if possible, consist of +a large proportion of leaves mixed with the dung, to prevent the steam +from the latter discolouring the rafters and sashes; and if the vapour +is likely to be too strong, a thin covering of sawdust or old tan will +prevent any injurious effects. If the roots are outside the house, and +had been covered before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more +dung and leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border, +the good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the +Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the Vines +to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with white lead. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week +in the Year, by William Keane + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING *** + +***** This file should be named 31423.txt or 31423.zip ***** This and +all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/4/2/31423/ + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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