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diff --git a/31423-8.txt b/31423-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1687c78 --- /dev/null +++ b/31423-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5349 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year, by +William Keane + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year + Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants + Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit, + Orchid, and Forcing-house + +Author: William Keane + +Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING *** + + + + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +IN-DOOR GARDENING + +FOR + +EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR: + +SHOWING + +THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS + +CULTIVATED IN THE + +GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE. + +BY WILLIAM KEANE. + +THIRD EDITION. + +LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, +FLEET STREET. + +1865. + + + + +IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY. + + +JANUARY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Cinerarias.--The plants intended for large specimens must receive +their final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their +foliage without interfering with or injuring each other. The +side-shoots to be tied out. + +Epacrises.--As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, +a little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display +their spikes of bloom more advantageously. + +Fuchsias.--If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest +should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots, +beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the +roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice +moist temperature of 50° by day and 40° by night. + +Heaths.--To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves +removed. The most forward in bud--such as the _Vestitas_, _Vernix_, +_Vasciflora_, _Aristata_, _Beaumontia_, and many others, to be tied +out, and arranged for the season. + +Pelargoniums.--When large specimens are wanted, tie out the +branches at equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot +as possible. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water +to be given but sparingly, and not overhead. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if +kept at 50° in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The +atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is +bright; and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into +bloom to be removed to the warmest part of the house. + +Clerodendrons.--To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced +and repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow +seeds, and also of any hard-wooded stove plants. + +Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient +to prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually +it is necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to +be kept moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., +daily. If any plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it +should be placed in the warmest part of the house, and the ripening +process encouraged. The Brassias, Cyanoches, Coelogynes, +Miltonias, and other such plants, when they are beginning to grow, +to be repotted. The compost to consist of turfy peat mixed with a +portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least +half full of very open drainage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial +heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air. + +Figs.--Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature +without injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to +begin cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with +fire the less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of +sun and light must be embraced for making sure progress with them. + +Peaches.--Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to +be cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have +expanded their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or +other artificial heat to be applied moderately--that is, from 45° by +night to 55° by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather +prevails. The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately +moist, and in a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty +freely once or twice a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny +days, and sprinkle the paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently. + +Vines.--When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be +rubbed off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long +enough to admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch +being broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the +practice of producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by +means of dung and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If +they are to be broken principally by fire heat, either by flues or +hot-water pipes, copious syringings must be resorted to with tepid +water once or twice a-day. Fire heat to be applied principally by +day, with air at the same time, and very moderately at night. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants will now require particular attention and a nice +discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended +by all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the +soil on the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water +until it gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be +given before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the +plant droops and the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is +then to be discovered by turning the ball out of the pot, when it +will be seen whether the whole or only a portion of the soil is wet; +as it sometimes happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it +shrinks from the sides of the pot when dry, and when water is given +it runs down and moistens the outside, without penetrating the ball. +The evil is corrected by holding it for a short space of time in a +tub of water of the same temperature as the house. If the soil of +any plant is sodden with water it should be turned out of the pot, +and the drainage examined, and no water to be given until it becomes +thoroughly dry. + +Verbenas.--They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more +susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the +glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew +appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, +they will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not +suffer for want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60° by fire +heat, and a fall of 10° may be allowed at night in very cold +weather. Many of the stove plants--such as Aphelandras, Justicias, +Poinsettias, &c.--may now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a +few weeks, which will cause them to make an early growth, and to +come into flower a few weeks sooner next winter. + +Gesneras.--Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to +start into growth to produce a succession of flowers. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply +of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness +is sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the +top is kept moist by gentle waterings. + +Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply +is wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give +them frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red +spider. + +Mushrooms.--An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If +the beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it +like dew at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50° to 60°, +with air occasionally in favourable weather. + +Peaches.--Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be +artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off +a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be +carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they +have been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end +doors being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top +daily in favourable weather. + +Pines.--As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants +that are swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual +increase of heat (from 65° at night to 75° or 80° in the middle of +the day in clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while +others that are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or +more moderate temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric +humidity. Some of the strongest succession plants that are grown in +pots to receive their final shift, that they may make their growth +for fruiting in May or June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where +the flues run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely +examined, as they are apt to be injured by fire heat in such a +situation. + +Strawberries.--A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame +where there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to +their healthy growth than in a house. + +Vines.--When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the +night temperature to range from 60° to 65°, with an increase of from +5° to 10° during the day. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully +exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than +is absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and +keep the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible. + +Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and +_Early Horn_ Carrots, Cauliflower and _Walcheren_ Broccoli, Lettuce, +and various other things, which will be found useful where the late +severe weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn +sowings. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + + +Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always +unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory. +Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as +water settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the +plants, bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their +blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where they can be +preserved much longer in perfection. The plants to be looked over +every morning, and every dead or decaying leaf and flower to be +removed. + +Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such +coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much +injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp +atmosphere. Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them +at all opportunities. + +Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally +shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a +slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and +free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will +now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show +signs of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little +water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold. + +Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy +more time than can be very well spared as spring operations +accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of +Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are +showing signs of growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, +fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy insects, +and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, are the materials +to be used. Any plants that had become very dry should be immersed +in tepid water for an hour the day previous to shifting. The climate +of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are +the best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment +required for _Oncidium Carthaginense_ would kill _O. bifolium_, and +_Cattleya Forbesii_ will thrive where _C. Skinneri_ will die, and in +like manner with many others. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be +placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them +singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards +shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be +planted out on a south border. + +Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate +temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning +to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the +temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere. + +Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, +rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. +When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off +the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out +two shoots from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck +in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than seedling plants. + +Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving +air where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the +trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen. + +Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar. + +Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they +are impatient of heat: let 45° be about the maximum, with a very +free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, +let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth +of 55° to 60°. In such a situation they will want scarcely any +water until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes. + +Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for +Capsicums. + +Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are +sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless +shoots to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are +not required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take +off some of the shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If +two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be removed. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be +prepared and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply +for immediate use should be stored in an open shed. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be potted into larger pots as they +require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf +mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a +moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55° +in the day. To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, +and to be kept free from insects. + +Fuchsias.--After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and +their roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and +peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced +to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch +long they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, +where they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in +heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower +garden. + +New Holland Plants.--Water them with care and moderation. Air to be +given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied +only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong +shoots of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the +best foundation for future good specimens. + +Sow seeds of Thunbergias, _Phlox Drummondi_, Mignonette, _Ten-week_ +and other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Achimenes.--Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly +as they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to +be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat. + +Gloxinias.--Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh +potted in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little +sand. To be excited in bottom heat. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Those which were first in flower should be dried +off for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding +water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the +light. + +Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such +tender annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine +specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--The plants preparing for ridging out early in February +will require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water +occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce +sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at +this season. To be kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to +be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less than 70° by +day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting +materials to be always prepared ready to receive the linings when +the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough to be provided +with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and +attention will not be necessary. + +Melons.--To be treated as advised for Cucumbers. + +Peaches.--When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue +syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, to produce a moist, but not +too damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh +air is indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable +opportunity; and if the cold external air could be made to pass over +the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in +contact with the blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly +kept up until the fruit is fairly set. + +Pines.--Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially +those that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more +water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate +during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until +evening, it should be drawn away by means of a syringe having a long +and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to +the point of a small stick. + +Strawberries.--When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a +little liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and +perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there +is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface +of the soil to be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near +the glass. + +Vines.--Continue the treatment as advised last week. + +Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and +Rhubarb. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, +and Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed +forward to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger +from frost is over. + + + + +FEBRUARY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and +the small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, +with a liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept +rather close until they make fresh roots. + +Azaleas (Indian).--Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted +before starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat +and sand, with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature +between 60° and 70° to be maintained, with plenty of air in +favourable weather. Sow seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle +bottom heat. + +Kalosanthes.--To be started into growth, potting them in a compost +of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed +leaf mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of +charcoal and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to +be given, and to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°. + +New Holland Plants.--Select young plants of the Boronias and other +such families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good +fibrous heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of +drainage. It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off +the tops of the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome +specimens. + +Orange Trees.--Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed +from them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin +to grow, as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean +without injury. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount +of atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an +advance to be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar +heat can be enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial +atmosphere. + +Crinums.--Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the +ball of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of +heat to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be +liberally supplied with water. + +Gloriosa superba.--Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous +loam, with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No +water to be applied to the tubers until they have commenced their +growth. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet +Brier, and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable +and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65° to 70° to be +maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have +made three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with +liquid manure. + +Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the +reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled +their pots with roots. + +Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of +the year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees +several times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all +weathers until the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to +the early house, when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to +leave one-third more on the trees than will be required to ripen +off. If Peaches are intended to be grown in pots for next season, +the maiden plants should now be procured, and potted in nine or ten +inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach and _Violette Hâtive_ Nectarine +are the most eligible for that purpose. + +Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the +surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove +them. The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house +or pit as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we +would not advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of +starting them into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are +good, healthy plants, they will have formed their fructiferous parts +before this time, and therefore should not be allowed to get dry, +but be watered when they require it with tepid water. + +Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all +respects the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be +increased in accordance with the increase of light rather more +rapidly at an early stage of their growth than that of the house in +which forcing was commenced in December. When Vines for the early +crops are grown in pots, put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge +them in a dung-frame or pit, with a bottom heat between 70° and 80°. +The _Hamburghs_, _Black Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweetwater_ are +the kinds to be preferred for that purpose. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter, +now begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all +others that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the +better enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check +or hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to +be considered the most favourable season for a general shift, +nevertheless it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once +or twice during their season of growth. + +Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and +cutting back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots +is desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider, +as they are more liable than other plants to be infested by them. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse +plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove +plants. + +Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil, +consisting of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general +rule they are repotted in February and August; but exceptions are +sometimes made, and a shift is given whenever the roots become +cramped or matted in the pot. The knife to be used cautiously, +unless with the tall-growing sorts. + +Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight +ago. When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil, +and give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil +will be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little +may be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they +advance in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where +the temperature is about 60°. + +Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half +turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with +good drainage. + +Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam, +vegetable soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand, +with plenty of drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a +bark-bed, and to keep the roots moist. + +Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the +warmest part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be +supplied with a little fresh material, taking care that the embryo +buds are not covered. Look over the fastenings of all that are on +blocks, or in baskets, and renew the wires where necessary. The +temperature to be about 65° by day, allowing it to range to 70° or +75° by sun-heat. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50° to 55° while the trees +are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not in +flower to be frequently syringed. + +Cucumbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of +the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the +heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being, +as it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer, +which is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in +the frame; cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will +allow it, a small portion of air should be left on every night, +which may be given in the evening after the frame has been closed +for two or three hours. Keep up the heat by stirring, renewing, or +topping-up the linings; and attend to the stopping of the plants, +and the earthing-up of the hills, as the roots make their appearance +on the surface. + +Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully +expanded. + +Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if +growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed +with soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or +a little above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in +clear, mild weather as soon as the fruit is set. + +Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong, +healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring them, +leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if +unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely +away, and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive +and healthy, and potting them in fresh soil. + +Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in +a gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks. + +Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless +buds and branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in +regularly, and the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left +on each Vine than it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About +one dozen bunches are a good average crop for each rod. The +temperature to range from 55° to 60° at night, with an increase of +5° to 10° during the day, and even higher during sunshine. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged, +cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other +considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season of +blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer. +Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all +other such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then +kept close for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly +to be kept down. + +Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, +and all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for +bedding-out purposes. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days +lengthen. Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, +and Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, +and started in the same manner. + +Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high +temperature causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable +to keep up a healthy atmosphere of from 55° to 65°, with an increase +of a few degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for +a very short time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid +draughts at this early period of the year. All growing plants to be +watered at the roots only, being careful not to allow any water to +lodge in the axils of the leaves to cause decay. To preserve the +roots of some Orchids in a healthy state it is necessary to grow +them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made proportionate to the +specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel of the plant to be +placed close to the end of the log, to give as much space as +possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well on +blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_, +_Phalænopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Brassavolas, +the Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Lælias, and +nearly all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the +Schombergias. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the +fruit blossom when open. + +Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of +air are excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with +water, and the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead. + +Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be +done gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and +injurious change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of +moisture to be kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55° to 65° +and 70° by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in +bloom; the bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy +setters, to be artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil +for that purpose. + +Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in +raising the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning +temperature is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they +require it, and to be syringed overhead in the morning and evening +of every clear day unless the plants are in bloom, or ripening their +fruit. Any crowns, suckers, or small plants not well established +will do well in a pit or frame on a bed of leaves, or well sweetened +dung, where they will make a rapid and vigorous growth during the +summer. + +Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all +laterals, &c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all +the principal shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow +the head or hand to touch the berries. Give them plenty of +air-moisture during their swelling season; to be discontinued when +they begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black +Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_, &c.--will set better by thinning +the blossom-buds before expansion, by which a more regular and +compact bunch will be produced. Late Vines should be pruned and +dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be removed, which will +retard their breaking, and benefit the trees. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these +houses, and then particular attention must be given to the New +Holland plants, Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat, +that they do not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is +thoroughly moistened at least once a-week. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, +Maurandyas, Rodochitons, and Tropæolums, deserve attention at this +time, increasing them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also +worthy of attention, such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, +Schizanthuses, with others which may all be forwarded in heat. +Whoever has not yet attended to the propagation of plants for +bedding out, should now begin, without further delay, to put in +cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias, Salvias, +Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May and June. All +straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy +plants. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back, +such as the _Eranthemum pulchellum_, _Euphorbia jacquiniæflora_, +_Geissomeria longiflora_, _Gesnera lateritia_, Justicias, _Linum +trigynum_, _Poinsettia pulcherrima_, and others. A bottom heat will +be necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about +three weeks or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they +require shifting, to be attended to. The condition or fitness for +this must, in a great measure, be determined by the progress the +shoots and roots have made. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes, +Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks, +Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last year's young +Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and _Salvia patens_, to be shaken out, +repotted, and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe +Amaranths, &c. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping, +set the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames +watered with warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots. +Water overhead on fine days, shutting up with 75° or 80° of heat. + +Cherries.--They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all +times except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable +occasions, shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep +down the green fly and look well after caterpillars. + +Figs.--Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead, +except on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the +fruit to drop off or to turn yellow. + +Peaches.--Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they +advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not +wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of +the temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their +fruit. Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and +disbudding, merely sufficient wood for next spring. + +Pines.--The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the +fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking +care that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants. +The plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with +clean soot water, air to be admitted on every favourable +opportunity, but cold draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept +up in succession-pits worked with linings. + +Strawberries.--To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and +in favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure +water, and the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred. + +Vines.--As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning +process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to +induce a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be +properly trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All +small bunches to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, +the heat by day may be allowed to rise from 70° to 80°. See to the +border coverings, if out-doors, as also border waterings, if +in-doors. Be careful when admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid +cold currents and changes, for in the space of an hour we have +sometimes strong sunshine, sleet or snow, and cutting winds. Vines +in pots to be supplied with plenty of manure water in all stages of +growth, but especially when swelling off their fruit. + + + + +MARCH. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of +air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and +also to temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side. +If severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used +in consequence, many plants that may appear all right may, +nevertheless, be very dry, and if they are not examined, and when +very dry, well soaked with water, they will soon show unmistakeable +signs of approaching death. + +Azaleas (Indian).--Young plants that have commenced their growth to +be repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them +in a warm, moist situation. + +Bulbs.--Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould, +with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth +in foliage. + +Heaths.--Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy +heath-soil full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure +that the ball is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly +dry when that operation is performed the waterings afterwards given +will pass freely through the fresh soil without penetrating the old +ball. Give them all the air possible, avoiding north or north-east +winds. + +Potting must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the +occupants of these houses. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as +briskly as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in +growth is advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check +the increase of insects. + +Orchids.--The general collection to be favoured with a good +steaming every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done +by sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing +state to be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a +perspiration during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are +generally increased by passing a sharp knife between the +pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave at least two or three undisturbed +next the growing shoots) so as to sever one or more of the dormant +bulbs from the parent plant, which should remain until it shows +signs of growth, when it may be taken off and potted. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom, +plenty of air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up +with a little extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days. + +Figs.--Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure +may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause +the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to +be stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop. + +Melons.--Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to +the linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry +atmosphere when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin. + +Peaches.--Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young +shoots, disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the +border is necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious +errors may be made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or +by giving too much. The temperature of the early house to be from +55° to 60° by night, ranging from 75° to 80° by sun heat, and +allowing 65° by artificial heat, on dull days. + +Pines.--A day temperature of 75° to 80° to be maintained during the +progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric +moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat, +and to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy +action of the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright +sunshine. + +Vines.--As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the +heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or +haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The +moss or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe, +will keep the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently +induce a mass of roots to be produced there. That by watering +occasionally with liquid manure will contribute to sustain the +vigour of the trees. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur at +this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant +sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention +is necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, +may be given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds +excluded. Frequent watering will also be necessary, and fires to be +dispensed with, or only used occasionally, merely to ward off the +rigour of sharp nights. The plants in good health, and well rooted, +to receive a liberal shift. All plants when shifted to be +accommodated with a little extra heat and moisture in the atmosphere +until they begin to make fresh roots, when they will require to be +more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy, vigorous growth. + +Camellias.--The plants that have finished flowering to be removed +to a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by +frequent syringings. + +Cinerarias.--Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to +form handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house +to be given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into +larger pots as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of +air, light, and room. + +Fuchsias.--They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist +temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the +syringe, to make them large pyramidal specimens. + +Pelargoniums.--Attention to be paid to their training, to watering, +and to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all +that may be wanted for late blooming. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as +possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during +the day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the +bottom heat ranges from 70° to 80°. + +Orchids will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of +wood with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be +supplied to those in pots in a growing state. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding, +tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing +morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of +solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to +obtain satisfactory results. + +Cherries.--Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as +either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop. + +Cucumbers.--The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline +rapidly during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and +air to be given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape, +taking care to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing +a mat or canvass before the openings. + +Figs.--A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to +be given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience, +the trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves +into which they root, and where they are allowed to remain until +they have borne their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots +are cut back to the pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined +in brick pits, where short-jointed fruitful wood is produced +without root pruning, which is necessary when the roots are allowed +to ramble without control. + +Melons.--This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will +have a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be +most wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow +seed for a succession. + +Pines.--Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be +supplied with soot or other manure water occasionally during the +whole time they are swelling the fruit until they attain their full +size; watering and syringing overhead should be withheld when they +begin to change colour, to give flavour to the fruit. The +succession-plants recently potted to be very moderately supplied +with manure water, and in a very diluted state until their roots +reach the sides of the pots. + +Strawberries.--Introduce succession-plants under glass, according +to the demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom +and near the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of +fresh air without currents. + +Vines.--Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to +leave more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to +perfection. The borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be +maintained at the roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply +good soakings of manure water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the +late Vines as soon as the bunches are perceptible. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the +hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in +good time to acquire a vigorous growth. + +Cacti.--The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them +an alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of +lime rubbish and loam, with a little cowdung, and in well-drained +pots. In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered; +and from October to March to be kept perfectly dry. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots in a +compost of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy +peat, old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss +on the crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be +freely given, avoiding currents of cold air. + +Heaths.--Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be +stopped, to produce a more uniform and compact plant. + +Lilium lancifolium.--To be potted either in a good peat, with a +little silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver +sand. The bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of +the pot to allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil. + +Pelargoniums.--The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The +house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them +to push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have +not been stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their +trusses, on sunny days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up +warm, with the sun upon it, about three or four o'clock in the +afternoon. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a +plentiful supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80° +or more, allowing a fall of 20° during the night. Shake out and +repot in succession the stove plants that have been previously +recommended to be headed back, and encourage a free growth by +plunging them, if possible, in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used +until they have filled them with roots, they may then receive one +bold shift that might probably be sufficient for the season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the +operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the +action of the roots. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere like fine +mild weather in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit, +give the trees no water at the roots, as this is generally one of +the chief causes of so much of it falling off at that time. + +Figs.--When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally +supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or five +eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up +vacancies. + +Melons.--Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &c., as +required. Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and +lively atmosphere during that period. Air to be given freely in +favourable weather, but cautiously, with some contrivance to break +cold winds. Do not allow a plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently +strong to sustain it. + +Peaches.--Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that +are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the +period)--say 65° by day and 60° by night; but when they commence +their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant +shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when +about the size of Peas. + +Pines.--The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with +manure water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if +recently shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun +is powerful; to be kept rather close and dry, except slight +sprinklings over the tops, until they have taken root, when they may +be watered freely, and will generally require no more to be given +for a week or ten days. + +Vines.--The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have +been thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and +moisture. The night temperature to be kept up to 65°, with an +increase of 10° by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second +house may now be in bloom, and will require attention in tying the +shoots and keeping up the necessary amount of heat, with less +moisture. Where the fruit is set, give the Vines a good syringing, +to wash off the flowers; after which the leaves and fruit should not +be again wetted, but to be supplied with atmospheric moisture by +watering the floor of the house, and sprinkling the flues or pipes, +or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of tepid manure +water to the Vines fruiting in pots. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or +are in active growth, constant attention will be required for the +judicious regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh +air during fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water +to the roots, and atmospheric moisture. + +When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which +inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in +proper condition for the growing season. No fear need then be +apprehended from potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, +&c., and admit plenty of air, bearing in mind former directions as +to draughts, &c. If the plants in the borders, or any of the +climbers, are dry, give them a good soaking of weak, tepid manure +water. Trellis climbers to be frequently attended to--stopping, +training, and arranging their shoots. + +Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender +annuals by potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the +side of the pot. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the +plants well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots +up to the lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh +rootlets from the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly. + +Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops +of gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained. + +Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show +flower. + +Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck. + +Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots, +according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by +placing them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as +soon as they are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature +similar to that in which they were struck. + +Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy +circulation of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove +plants. Continue to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last +week, those which have been flowering through the winter. To be then +favoured with a bottom heat of from 75° to 80°, and slightly shaded +during bright sunshine. + +Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for +specimens will probably require a second shift, see to them in time; +and if they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a +large shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air +at all favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with +moisture. The surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week, +and sprinkle it occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist, +congenial atmosphere about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun +heat. Look sharply after mealy-bug and thrips. + +Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed +into the flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan. + +Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them, +as they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much +water over those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may +damp off. Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. +_Calantha veratifolia_, _Neottia picta_, _N. elata_, Phaius of +sorts, some varieties of Stanhopea, _Zygopetaltum Mackayii_, and +other such Orchids that are now making their growth, would be +benefited by an application of clear, diluted manure water +occasionally; a kindly humidity to be kept up, and the shading to be +in readiness for use during bright mid-day sun. + + +PITS AND FRAMES. + +Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give +air daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot +off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias, +Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal +supply of manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them. + +Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the +temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to +be liberally supplied. + +Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give +a little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off, +when they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As +soon as the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame, +never allow any of the laterals to grow more than two joints before +being stopped. Stop frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit +show at a joint pinch one away. + +Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the +walls exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur. + +Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, +moist heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The +plants that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air +at every favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful +wood. The shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that +are not wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65°, and air to +be admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75°; but to be given +very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of +young plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong +and vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when +they require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the +beds by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated +in accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats +do not hang over either the front or back of the frames. + +Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that +have been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; +sprinkle the floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The +conditions of success are to have the materials for making the beds +well prepared and sweet--that is, free from rank steam, and the +spawn to be put in whilst the heat keeps regular and moderate, and +the beds are coated over to keep it so until the spawn is well +established. + +Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those +that are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, +leaving more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is +liable to drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where +it is intended to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, +and some suitable trees have to be provided, it should be no longer +postponed. It is a good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, +to succeed any that may become useless. + +Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, +and a humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80° to 85° +during the day, and as near 70° as possible at night; the +succession-pits from 75° to 80° during day, and 60° to 65° at night. +These particulars to be modified by the state of the weather, +whether sunny or dull. + +Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their +fruit, when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, +or any other house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The +plants swelling their fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a +sprinkling overhead daily. When the fruit begins to change colour +the sprinkling to be dispensed with, and the supply of water at the +roots to be given sparingly. + +Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air, +accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention +to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming +the borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present +under the influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice +as to tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the +fruit in the succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set. +When thinning be as careful as possible of the bunches--neither +pull them about with the hand, by which rust on the berries is +frequently produced, nor with whatever the shoulders may be held up +by at the time of thinning, as, by the twisting of the stalks, +shanking is not unfrequently produced. Attention to be given in +stopping all laterals, and breaking off all useless shoots for the +more free admission of light, which is most beneficial in every +stage of their growth. Look over houses where the fruit is swelling, +and see if any of the bunches would be improved by tying up the +shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should be +inarched before the wood gets too old. + + + + +APRIL. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses +have been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the +sooner they are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, +sprinkling the plants with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and +pay attention to the destruction of insects the moment you can +perceive them. + +Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to +syringe them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and +maintaining a kindly humidity during the time they are making their +growth. + +Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, +and shade slightly during bright sunshine. + +Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling +growth to be stopped. + +Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing +of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung. + +New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, +Dillwynias, Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, +Polygalas, &c., a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the +young growth as it may require it; keep them clean, and repot them +when necessary. + +Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss +of time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will +feed greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of +the pot. Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of +air, using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe +frequently air plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if +possible, of 80° towards three or four o'clock. + +Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for +succession. + +Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be +reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some +time afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; +and also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_, +_Justicias_, _Linums_, &c. + +Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow. + +Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere +for a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied +until that period, and then with moderation. + + +FORCING-PIT. + +Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such +plants from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and +autumn decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, +the temperature may be raised to 60° by day and 50° by night, and +syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp +look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle +in them destroyed. + +Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally +with water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. +Temperature, 65° by day and 55° by night. + +Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state +of the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes +show one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which +should be picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of +others. The vines, or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and +when they have nearly filled the frame, or other allotted space, +several fruit should be impregnated at one time. Sow for +successional crop. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the +shoots as they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, +fumigate the house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them +in tobacco water. When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin +them to the number you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, +which is better than pulling them off. + +Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and, +therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants +may now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting +those that are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from +80° to 85° during day, and from 65° to 70° at night. The successions +from 75° to 80° by day, and from 65° to 70° at night. + +Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of +water, syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation. + +Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines +in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now +commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable +opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which +frequently cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the +later houses, attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The +last house to be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most +cases, will be considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe +frequently; to apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and +to postpone the application of fire-heat as long as possible. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the +greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost. +It will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other +such plants. + +Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their +fresh growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a +short time. + +Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants +making wood, with a temperature of about 65° by day and 55° by +night. Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy, +short-jointed wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright +sunshine. + +Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may +not suffer by want of water. + +Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in +pots which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas, +Thunbergias, Nierembergias, Tropæolums, and other such plants of a +slender and tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion +being composed of leaf mould. + +Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers. + +Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention +without delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of +their growth; as the free-growing kinds will require more room than +the less vigorous ones. + +New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or +approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger +quantity of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted +since last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading +shoots, to produce bushy plants. + +Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and +fumigating, if the green fly appears. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the +free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing; +using shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted, +give less water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first +watering will be moist enough for some time. Some of the +free-growing kinds of Cattleyas, Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums, +Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should be encouraged to make kindly +growth by frequent syringings about their pots, blocks, or baskets. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The principal objects to be attended to are--abundance +of air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist +atmosphere, and the free application of the syringe. The temperature +the same as last week. Particular attention in watering to be paid +to the trees in pots,--as too much is as bad as, if not worse than, +too little. + +Figs.--Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth +eye. Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to +change for ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak +tepid liquid manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when +they are confined in pots or tubs. + +Melons.--As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a +crop are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of +each other, they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than +cure, keep the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent +syringings in fine weather, and closing early; insects will but +rarely, if ever, attack thriving plants. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the +early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak +liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all +laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin +them; as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an +earlier period of the season. + +Pine Apples.--Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong +solar heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid; +therefore, water must be applied to both roots and leaves. +Succession plants to be shaded during sudden bright sunshine or +sunbursts; and be guided in the application of water by the active +or inactive state of the roots. + +Vines.--Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance. +The first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of +Peas; the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after +the berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches +long, crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and +forward, as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to +be tied up as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine +afternoon, and close the house early. Give air early in the morning, +that the leaves may become gradually dry before the sun acts +powerfully upon them. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the +health of the plants. By such means they will remain longer in +bloom, and will be more enjoyable for parties inspecting them. + +Camellias.--Continue to encourage the growth of those that have +done flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent +syringings, and by a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any +have made their growth, and have formed their blossom-buds, they +will require more light and less moisture for the future. + +Cinerarias.--To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is +necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for +want of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful, +slight shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the +day, to prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty +of air to be given when the weather is mild. + +Fuchsias.--Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture, +they will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into +their blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose. + +New Holland Plants.--Top and syringe frequently all such plants as +are growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require. + +Pelargoniums.--Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it +in due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance) +may be given to plants that are well established with roots and +showing their trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for +each plant to develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading +only when there is a fear of scorching from the usual sudden +sunbursts of April weather. Ply the syringe every fine evening to +refresh the plants, and to keep down insects, until the flowers +expand, when syringing should be discontinued. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth. +Allow no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist +atmosphere. Give air when the thermometer indicates 90°. Continue to +shift Gesneras, Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants, +as they require it. The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the +Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias, Phaiuses, Sobralias, +Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now be growing freely, +and will therefore require a considerable amount of atmospheric +moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little management +in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside shading, and +will give an additional feature of interest to the house. The plants +on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very frequent +syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants in bloom +may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a drier +atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--When they begin to change they will require free +exposure to light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour; +and, at the same time, a diminution in the supply of water. +Carefully examine all curled leaves, and destroy the grubs they +contain. If the trees are very luxuriant, and are making strong +foreright shoots, stop them to within a few buds of the main +branch. + +Figs.--Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they +are swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and +thin out any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely. + +Melons.--Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in +very hot weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession +crops. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--When the fruit in the early house has gone +through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should +take place; the borders--if inside, or out, or both--should be +copiously supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a +weak habit, from poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be +necessary. Syringings to be given twice a-day--early in the morning +and at shutting-up time. The night temperature to be no more than +50°; but during the day it may range to 85°, if accompanied with air +in liberal quantities. + +Pine Apples.--Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when +they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist +atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn +out the plants, if preferred. + +Strawberries.--They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65° +to 70° by day, and 55° to 60° by night; succession crops rather +cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems, and +thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of +runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air. + +Vines.--Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few +berries may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the +time of their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature--about 75° +by day and 60° by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in +course of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In +later houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the +heat be moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all +favourable opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near +the light. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove, +forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming +season, will require particular care to be taken in the application +of water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to +stop, prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due +time. Stir the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply +fresh soil, to maintain the plants in good health. + +Azaleas, Chinese.--Supply them liberally with water at their roots +during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from +injuring the bloom. + +Calceolarias.--The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in +a gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be +grown in a cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being +too much drawn. Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping +the plants well down in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets +from the stem. Cuttings taken off now will root readily in a gentle +bottom heat. + +Camellias.--Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect +the young leaves. + +Fuchsias.--Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use +the syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be +long-jointed, to produce uniform and bushy plants. + +Heaths.--Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded +plants that are now in bloom, or approaching that state. + +Pelargoniums.--Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late +blooming should now be stopped. + +Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian.--Treat as advised for _Azaleas_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly +increase the temperature. Shade with tiffany, or close-meshed +netting, in bright sunny weather; removing it early in the +afternoon. Water liberally all that are making free growth. Repot +any that may require it as soon as they have fairly commenced their +growth. Continue to give liberal shifts to the free-growing young +stock of stove plants, slightly shading for a few hours in hot +weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and producing a kindly +humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots, &c. + +Begonias.--Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful +tribe of plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the +adornment of the conservatory. + +Clerodendrons.--Encourage by a moist heat. + +Climbers.--Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies +of water, if in pots. + +Gardenias.--They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung +linings is most congenial to them. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Pot bulbs for late flowering. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty +of air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in +tubs, or pots, to become dry. + +Figs.--The same as last week. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--Keep the leading shoots regularly tied +in, and pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones. + +Pine Apples.--It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or +have already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit, +that more air may be admitted to them than to the others more +advanced, to produce a more robust growth, and to avoid the +necessity of using stakes to support the fruit. Air to be admitted +freely to the succession plants at every favourable opportunity. + +Strawberries (in pots).--Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather +dry atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure +flavour. When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and +the atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid +currents of frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass +according to the demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has +been picked to the open air till well hardened off. Give them the +protection of a cold pit for a time, as they are invaluable in +open-air plantations. + +Vines.--Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on +every favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the +morning before the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed +vapour, which would affect them injuriously, from settling on the +bunches. Attend to stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots, +tying in leaders, &c., in the later houses. Remove the top dressing +from the outside border, to allow the increasing power of the sun to +act beneficially upon it. + + + + +MAY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger +pots; and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose +habit of growth, to make them compact and bushy. + +Azaleas.--As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to +make their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them +occasionally with manure water, and shade for a short time in the +middle of the day when the sun is powerful. + +Calceolarias.--Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade +those in bloom. + +Cinerarias.--When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the +development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame. + +Climbers.--Keep all neatly trained. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The late-flowering sorts, or such +as have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another +season, may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as +require it must be shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular +attention being paid that they do not get dry at the root. + +Pelargoniums.--Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such +as are wanted to flower late. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in +correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early +in the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice +stove plants, and keep all free from insects. + +Achimenes.--Pot off. + +Begonias.--Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, pruning in +any straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them +close, and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing. +Keep them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to +expand. The following are good sorts:--Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina, +Fuchsioides, Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma. + +Gloxinias.--Repot where necessary. + +Succulents.--Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited +into vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and +moisture. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--Temperature 65° to 70° by day and 50° at night, and give +plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold. + +Figs.--Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use +the syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in +the afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening, +the syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier; +but, as there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water +must not be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening, +as it would endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more +sparingly. + +Melons.--Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is +safely set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure +water. Let swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the +light. + +Peaches.--Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both +increase the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom +of the tree. The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the +same purpose, and to keep down insects. Air and light to be +admitted, to give flavour and colouring to the ripening fruit. + +Pines.--The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be +treated with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot +water, or both combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in +foliage and growth, with the caution that it be given in a warm, +clear state, and not too strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm +afternoons, and close up with a temperature of 85° or 90°; giving +air again towards evening. When indications of ripening by changing +colour appear, desist from the use of the syringe, and give them no +further supplies at the root. + +Strawberries.--When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a +frame where a free admission of air can be given. + +Vines.--Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next +year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of +pot room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some +of the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as +they advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and +other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a +brisk day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of +blooming, and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction +to a night-temperature of 65° or 68°, to suit the other varieties. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid +atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted. +Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them, +before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for +bedding out, and let them remain for a short time under the +protection of a cold frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at +night with mats, or other such protecting materials. This +gradually-hardening-off will better enable them to withstand +unfavourable weather, if it should occur after they are planted out. + +Azaleas.--All irregularities of growth should be corrected by +pruning. We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning +on such plants; they had been cut in severely last season by +removing strong, straggling branches of old wood, to give some a +spherical and others a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was +reduced, the plant fresh potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the +peat soil rammed as hard as it was possible to make it; then +watered, and introduced to heat. The plants treated in that manner +are now covered with bloom, and in a high state of vigour. + +Heaths.--Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants. + +New Holland Plants.--Some of them of weak growth, and which +naturally make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending +down the branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string +attached to the rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the +plant at its base is hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of +the sap will induce an increased supply of shoots. Pick off the +seed-pods as the plants go out of bloom. Cut back and arrange the +shoots in the best manner, to produce compact growth. + +Pelargoniums.--All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross +habit, will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure +water. For that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and +to one peck add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When +taking it for use draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering +twice a week. Give air freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants +overhead till the flowers expand, when syringing should be +discontinued. As the petals are apt to drop very soon in hot +weather, it is recommended to touch the centre of the flower with a +camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum water, which will +stick the petals together and prolong the blooming. Such is the +general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such +plants as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent +attention to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently, +to regulate their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of +trouble and confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as +Brugmansias, Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias, +and those winter-flowering plants _Euphorbia jaquiniflora_ and the +_Gesnera bulbosa_. Where there is only one house in which to grow +Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must be made to suit the +natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady woods of the East, and +those which inhabit high and airy regions in the Western hemisphere. +To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free circulation of +air during the early part of the day, with an abundance of +atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a +high degree of temperature. + +Achimenes.--They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded +situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The +shoots to be staked out neatly. + +Gesneras to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light. + +Gloxinias.--The same as _Achimenes_. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the +fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their +fruit. Keep them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little +value. + +Figs.--Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid +wetting the fruit when it begins to soften. + +Melons.--Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the +linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep +the foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be +produced. When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in +them with a little assistance from dung heat at bottom. + +Peaches.--Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees, +the fruit of which are ripening. + +Pines.--Continue the previous instructions in the management of the +plants in the different stages of growth. + +Vines.--Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good +time. Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of +_Muscats_, _West's St. Peter's_, and other shy setters. Be sure that +inside borders are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient +quantities to thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn +decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and +water. + +Azaleas.--Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely +potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure. + +Camellias.--Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat +amongst all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the +supply of water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from +flagging, will induce the production of blossom-buds. + +Epacris.--Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts +that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath +soil, rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for +some time after being newly shifted, require particular attention in +watering, that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be +placed in a cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine. +The stopping or pinching out the points of strong shoots must be +regularly attended to during their growing season, to establish a +uniformity of sturdy growth. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--All that have flowered, and have +made their season's growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames, +to allow those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air, +sun and light. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at +favourable opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very +freely, and should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to +stopping, training, &c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot +room, and allow them all the sunshine they will bear without +scorching; also, allow them sufficient space for the development of +their foliage. Plenty of moisture is now requisite to encourage a +free growth in Orchids, to get their pseudo-bulbs firm, well +nourished, and ripened in good time. Free ventilation in favourable +weather and a slight shading in bright sunshine are also requisites +for their healthy growth. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even +to the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather. +Fires may be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very +cold. + +Figs.--Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth; +discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They +frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots. + +Melons.--If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants, +they will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is +swelling off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants +overhead, and to shut up early every fine afternoon with a good +heat. Lay the fruit on a tile or piece of slate. + +Peaches.--When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen, +admit air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the +lights entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct +influence of the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained. +Continue to stop all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young +wood. Some persons lay in plenty of young wood to select from in +winter pruning; but fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over +the tree, is best attained by the judicious and successive thinning +of useless shoots during their growing season. Continue to tie in +the shoots of the late houses. + +Pineries.--When the repotting of the plants has recently taken +place it will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright +sunshine, for a few days; but for the general stock shading should +be dispensed with as much as possible--as short, stiff leaves and +sturdy growth are best attained by judicious airings and humidity. +Do not water much at the root immediately after repotting. Maintain +a brisk bottom heat to the succession plants. Admit plenty of air +during favourable weather. + +Vineries.--As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is +advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to +retain and to preserve with the greatest care the principal +leaves--as the good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition +of the tree for the ensuing season will depend upon the number and +healthy state of the principal leaves. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a +liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight +shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days. + +Azaleas, Chinese.--When done blooming, they succeed best in a close +pit, kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the +day. If they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery, +or in any other large house where they can stand at a distance from +the glass without shading. + +Balsams and Cockscombs.--Promote their growth by shifting them +into larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the +glass, and heat. + +Camellias to be treated as advised for _Azaleas_. + +Geraniums.--If any remain after the flower-garden masses are +furnished, they should be potted and treated with every attention as +to watering, &c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow +freely, to be stopped, to make bushy plants. _Calceolarias_, +_Fuchsias_, _Petunias_, _Verbenas_, &c., treated in a similar +manner, will be useful as a reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants +that are now in bloom, and to fill up vacancies as they occur in the +beds and borders. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Many being now in full growth will +require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather. +Many fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering; +for if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours +to restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Ornamental stove plants--such as Brugmansias, Centradenias, +Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras, +Justicias, Poinsettias, &c., to be supplied with clear liquid +manure, and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the +free-growing plants will require shifting occasionally. The great +object should be to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to +secure luxuriant foliage at the right season, when there will be +more time for the wood to be properly matured for winter. The +syringings to be given early in the afternoon, that the plants may +get dry before night. + +Achimenes.--When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine +effect. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the +fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling +their fruit. Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free +from insects. + +Chrysanthemums.--Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck, +the cuttings should be put in at once. + +Cucumbers.--Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for +ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the +ball of earth is well soaked with water before planting. + +Figs.--Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with +abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is +ripening. + +Peaches.--Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to +the ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether +from the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the +inside borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour +that arises may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if +dry, should also be watered as far as the roots extend, and then +mulched, to prevent evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the +early-forced trees have naked branches, some of the earliest-made +wood may be taken from the trees, and buds inserted from it in the +barren parts. Buds inserted now may start into growth in July, and +be stopped when about six inches long, to get the wood well ripened. + +Pines.--A bottom heat from 80° to 85° must be kept up to the plants +intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where +practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to +remain in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with +water, and occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth +of the suckers. + +Vines.--In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature +may be allowed to rise to 90°, with sun heat, and to decline to 60° +at night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be +covetous to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad +effects. Stop laterals, and use the syringe freely in the +afternoons. + + + + +JUNE. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Azalea Indica.--Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after +they have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an +abundance of water, and syringing freely. + +Calceolarias.--Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and +remove them to a cold frame. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The young stock will now succeed +best in a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass +to be well washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes, +above the ground level. + +Pelargoniums.--Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from +scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late +flowering. + +Petunias.--Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating +pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums, +Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours +for the conservatory. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping. +The Aërides, Dendrobiums, Phalænopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses, +Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will +now require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings. +Gongoras, Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c., when full of roots in +baskets, require a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot +Cymbidiums, Peristerias, &c., starting into growth. Aërides, Vandas, +and plants of a similar habit, do best when shifted after they have +done blooming. + +Achimenes.--Continue to shift them, as also _Begonias_, +_Clerodendrons_, _Gesneras_, &c., as requisite. Remove those in +bloom to the greenhouse or conservatory. + +Climbers.--Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest +of the plants to an injurious extent. + +Succulents.--Shift _Melocacti_, &c., and keep them growing, and +near the glass. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has +been lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an +occasional supply of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing +overhead with the syringe, or engine, dashing it on with +considerable force. They will also require to have their wood +matured early. + +Figs.--Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four +or five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the +second crop where too thick. + +Melons.--Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals. +When the fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly +moist state, and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat +should not be allowed to sink below 75°. + +Peaches.--Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and +moisture, and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and +healthy. The ripening fruit will require plenty of air. + +Pines.--Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to +remain in a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to +start prematurely into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that +the balls are thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give +strength to the growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of +air in the morning part of the day; and in the afternoon, to +encourage a high degree of heat with an abundance of atmospheric +moisture. The plants growing in open beds to be supplied with a +steady bottom heat of from 80° to 85°, and sufficient water to the +roots. + +Vines.--Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell +rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in +bloom to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the +fruit is set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass +of useless wood to remain on them. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an +out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from +high winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the +worms cannot get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain +should be turned round from time to time, that they may not get +one-sided; and allow them to have plenty of room on all sides. Also, +the young plants intended for specimens should have their +flower-buds picked off, to encourage their growth. + +Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in +bottom heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds +to be picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size +before they are allowed to bloom. + +Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have +flowered; if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature +having completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the +plants down, and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold +frame _facing the east_, the lights on during the day, with air, and +entirely off during the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night +dews are highly beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon +produce new shoots, which must be taken off and pricked out into +small pots in a very open soil, and placed in a very gentle bottom +heat to strike. When rooted, to be shifted into pots of a larger +size. + +Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be +cut down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the +old soil removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a +sheltered situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in +which the Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of +the soil, in rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the +row. When planted, to be well watered. + +Climbers.--The Passifloras, _Mandevilla suaveolens_, _Tecoma +jasminoides_, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now +be growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent +attention to keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to +grow in a natural manner, merely preventing them from getting too +much entangled, or growing into masses. + +Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an +abundance of water and frequent syringings. Train them in the +desired form, and pinch back all weak and straggling shoots. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and +be sure that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young +plants which are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where +they can be exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper +foundation for a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train +the shoots into form. + +Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and +give them liquid manure occasionally. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To +harden the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter +flowering, it is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such +as the shelves of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the +Stanhopeas will now be blooming, should be carefully examined to see +that the buds, as they protrude, may not be injured by contact with +the side. Many stove plants and Orchids in flower, if taken to a +late vinery, or such intermediate house, will thus be prepared, in a +short time, for removal to the conservatory during the summer. + +Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging +loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either +hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and +regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a +confused mass of wood and foliage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather. + +Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a +good syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to +keep down insects. + +Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks, +during bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the +scorching of the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens +prematurely, and is, in consequence, without flavour. + +Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible +during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the +lights open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give +a good watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as +previously advised. + +Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the +fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow +at the same time the thermometer to range from 90° to 95°. Shut up +when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and +ply the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and +the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two +afterwards for the night. + +Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they +advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work +to be done. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in +showery weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage. +The more delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected +by some means during heavy rains. + +Camellias.--When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air +night and day, with an occasional application of the syringe, +keeping the paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing, +and have formed their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the +plants overhead, as it sometimes starts them into a fresh growth +that will be the destruction of the flower-buds. + +Chrysanthemums.--Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in +an open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one +stem, and others to be topped, to make them bushy. + +Cinerarias.--In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each +parent plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour, +and to place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should +be carefully gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow +pots, or pans, well drained with crocks; then some siftings, and +over that some light soil, with some finer and more sandy on the +surface, covering the seeds very lightly with the same; and slightly +sprinkling, or watering, through a very fine rose, and the surface +covered with a little moss, to prevent evaporation. In a few days +the seedlings will be up; then remove the moss, and let them remain +in the pots, or pans, until they are large enough to be handled with +safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep close for a day or +two. + +Lilium lancifolium.--Give attention to them; as also to tree +Carnations, _Salvia splendens_, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., for autumn +and early winter flowering. + +Oranges.--The same as advised for _Camellias_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Achimenes.--Repot, as also _Begonias_ and _Gesneras_, for +succession of late bloom. + +Luculia gratissima.--Propagate by cuttings. + +Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with +fresh soil. The _Barkeria spectabilis_, _Epidendrum Skinneri_, the +Lycastes, _Odontoglossum grande_, &c., will now enjoy the +temperature of the conservatory. + + +FORCING-HOUSE. + +Figs.--Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long. +Never allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now +require daily attention. + +Melons.--Shade them during bright sunshine for a few hours in the +middle of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum, +mixed with water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or +frame, where the sun's rays may fall upon them. + +Peaches.--Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so. +When the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the +syringe. Those changing for ripening, if the trees are young and +vigorous, to have a general stopping of the strong shoots all over +the higher parts of the tree. To keep down red spider, it is +advisable to wash the walls, pipes, or flues, with sulphur vivum +reduced to the consistency of paint; or to paint some slates, tiles, +or common saucers, with the mixture, and to place them in different +parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon them. + +Pines.--If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well +furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in +a warm state, may be given with advantage to them. + +Strawberries.--As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a +healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have +emitted the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out +on a rich piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or +early Potatoes have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather +is hot, they are more convenient to shade, and require less water. + +Vines.--When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood +by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be +gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and +somewhat in the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop, +not all at once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may +be allowed to produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient +room to lay them in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood, +or shading the old leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned, +their shoulders to be tied out, and every useless shoot to be +removed. Keep the Vines in pots trained, and exposed to light, and +apply weak liquid manure frequently. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants--such as Boronias, +Epacrises, &c.--will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting +in rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse +plants will most probably require shifting, and should receive that +attention now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a +sharp look out for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and +give the plants, if the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice +a-week from the syringe or garden engine. + +New Holland Plants.--If any are retained in the house, let them be +placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and +at the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots; +but if such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in +another two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss. + +Pelargoniums.--When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open +ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they +are cut down. + +Scarlet Geraniums.--To prepare them for winter blooming it is +advisable to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out +of doors and in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as +they appear. To be carefully attended with water. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the +floors, paths, &c., damp. Many of the stove plants--viz., +Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums, +Pergularias, Stephanotises, &c.--may be removed to the conservatory, +where the flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a +longer period than if they had remained in the stove. + +Euphorbias.--Propagate _jacquiniæflora_ and _fulgens_, and grow +them on a successional system of culture for furnishing the +conservatory and stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Keep up a succession in various stages of +growth, and place another batch of tubers in a pan. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in +houses where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere +cool and moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the +engine, to keep down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy. + +Cherries.--When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit +has been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely +open. Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine. +When the plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard +bottom on the north side of a wall or fence. + +Melons.--Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without +it a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most +injurious effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the +plants overhead occasionally. + +Peaches.--Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while +the fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning, +to prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early +in the afternoon. + +Pines.--Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and +give attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due +time. By such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be +secured for the fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants +swelling their fruit to be also favoured with a high temperature, a +moist atmosphere, and plenty of water, and occasionally manure water +at the root. If worm-casts appear in any of the pots, water with +lime-water in a clear state. + +Vines.--As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the +ripe bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur +must be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the +use of the syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen. +Check the growth of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final +thinnings to the latest Grapes; and as they are frequently required +for winter use, a good thinning should be given, as crowded bunches +and berries will not keep late in the season. + + + + +JULY. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the +conservatory should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure. +Give all the air possible at this season, both night and day, and +keep the house as neat and clean as possible. If it contains many +tender stove plants, shut it up for an hour while the sun is on it +in the evening, so as to produce a more genial atmosphere for them. + +Achimenes.--Encourage them, as also _Clerodendrons_, &c., to grow +and to prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them +with liquid manure, taking particular care not to give it too +strong, especially at first. + +Cinerarias.--Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should +also be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers +for the purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they +have made fresh growth. + +Chrysanthemums.--Propagate some for blooming in small pots. + +Heaths.--Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become +unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds--such +as the _ventricosa_, &c.--do best in a sheltered situation in the +open air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the +woolly-leaved--such as _Masonii_, &c.--and hardwooded varieties +delight in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for +protection as necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted +in the spring, and, if necessary, pot them without delay; but if +they require to be cut in, to make them bushy, it will be best to +let them break afresh before they are repotted. + +Leschenaultias.--If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to +be repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times, +and abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that +were potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require +more pot room. + +Ixoras.--Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air +both night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue +stopping them for the season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cherries.--When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in +tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy +quarter, to make their wood for next season's bearing. + +Figs.--Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up +their second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be +useful. Pinch out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long. +It should be a practice to manage the trees during the summer that +nothing more than a slight thinning out should be wanted at the +winter pruning. + +Melons.--Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out +the shoots, stopping, &c. + +Peaches and Nectarines.--When all the fruit is gathered, and the +wood seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite +off, and place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to +be given to the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop +in succession many of the strong shoots about the period the last +swelling commences. Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in +the morning and again in the evening. + +Pines.--Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession +plants, and during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every +open space with moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants +becoming brown. If such a practice be regularly adopted during hot, +bright sunny weather, shading will seldom or never be necessary. Be +at the same time particular in maintaining a mild, genial bottom +heat. + +Vines.--The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept +dry and well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention +to keep a regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air. +_Muscats_ very frequently require fires during the night and on wet, +cold days. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in +the middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the +foliage; and never to be watered overhead. + +Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have +finished their growth. + +Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very +large heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the +flowers are formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of +one-half rich loam, one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and +supplied with as much liquid manure and moist heat as possible. + +Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air +and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages +with clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and +evening overhead. + +Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they +will flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or +rotten dung. They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be +subjected to a moist heat of not less than 75°. + +Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When +watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball +is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is +again completely dry. + +Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and +liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly +sticked, so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in +presenting a large mass of flowers to the eye at once. + +Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as +advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down. +After the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the +most forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out, +and repot into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and +placing them in a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again; +after which freely expose them to the weather until heavy rains in +autumn, or the approach of frost, renders it necessary to house them +for the winter. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to +remove filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in +standing in corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange +frequently, as it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the +plants and a pleasing variety in the house. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is +advisable to keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat. +Strike cuttings of choice sorts for winter bearing. + +Melons.--The same as advised for _Cucumbers_, as they both delight +in plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give +them good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up +early on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, +and the plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never +allow any to fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears, +apply lime to the parts affected. Old plants cut back should be +stimulated to grow freely. + +Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those +from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal +waterings at the roots and by syringings. + +Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90° to 95° by day and from 70° +to 75° by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing plants +and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the +pots. + +Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and +day as soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully +ripened, in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at +a good heat. Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up +the bunches, and maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty +of air, but do not syringe the bunches. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought +into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at +every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house +dry. The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. +Some judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants, +that they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by +drought in hot sunny days. + +The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them +sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other +considerations will permit. + +Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy +compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather +lumpy character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority. +Particular attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially +to the crock at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it +matters but little how much depth of drainage material rests upon +it, the soil will soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the +final shift should be given in good time to those intended to flower +in the autumn. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal +parts of peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small +portion of sand. Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at +the bottom of the pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim +with the compost, passed through a fine seive. After the pot has +been gently struck on the potting-bench to settle the soil, the +surface must then be made level with a flat piece of wood, or the +bottom of a small garden pan or saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly +over the surface, do not cover with soil, and water with a fine +rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and be kept shaded from the +sun. + +Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is +generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from +me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat +containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, +and also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large +pot and frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen. + +Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted +out in the open ground. + +Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the +adornment of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in +fibrous peat, broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young +plants to be frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the +shoots while growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those +again to be stopped until the plants have attained a size sufficient +to warrant their blooming. + +Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in +bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over, +to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature +their growth. + +Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the +summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it +has attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can +be easily formed into a neat, compact specimen. + +Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes, +Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent +attention as to watering, shifting, &c. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove +plants intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at +all times; with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur, +the humidity that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be +dissipated by a free circulation of air when bright weather returns. +Keep a free circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour +to supply an abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter +part of the day; and dispense with shading as much as possible by +using it only during a few hours of the hottest part of the day. + +Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them +neatly tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give +them a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe +them frequently overhead. + +Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month +is the most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish +to grow fine specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, +so that they may not require to be shifted for several years, as +then the plants grow much finer and flower better than when annually +shifted. Now, as soon as they have done flowering they commence +growing, when they should have plenty of heat and moisture until +they have completed their pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced +to a comparative state of rest by gradually withholding water until +they show flower; then to be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but +should have no water at the root, or at least but a small portion, +until they begin to grow. As all the plants belonging to this genus +push their flowers downwards, it is advisable to have them elevated, +or put in baskets, where the flowers can get through and show +themselves to advantage. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are +swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the +foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist. +Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop +ripens, curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before +they reach maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be +regularly supplied with water, and some liquid manure added about +once a week to assist the second crop. Keep down red spider by the +application of sulphur in the manner so frequently advised of late. +Give the fruit that is ripening the benefit of the sun, by fastening +on one side the leaves that shade it. + +Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a +comparatively cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit +daily, and gather before it is overripe and loses its flavour. + +Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of +the advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of +air and sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely +to the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but +a circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at +the same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions +to afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by +frequent syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other +available surface until the fruit begins to change colour, when the +atmosphere and soil should be kept rather dry, to improve the +fruit's flavour. See to the stools from which fruit have been cut. +Earth them up, so as to cause suckers to strike root. Give them a +brisk bottom heat, and proper supplies of water. You will thus gain +time and assistance for the suckers from the declining strength of +the parent plant as long as possible. It is now a good time to start +a lot into fruit, as they will have two or three most favourable +months for swelling, and will come in at a season when they are in +very general request. Keep the bark-bed moderately moist, as in that +state it will retain its heat much longer than if it is allowed to +get dry. + +Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as +it is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too +far advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep +longer than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do +not allow plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, +which, despite every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the +berries and spoil them. The outside borders of the late houses +should be watered and mulched, if the weather continue dry. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs, +Fuchsias, Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan +Lilies. Strict attention must be paid to all plants in these +structures that they do not suffer from the want of water. Continue +to stop over-luxuriant growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens. +On the evenings of hot, dry days, after the plants have been +watered, give them a slight syringing, or sprinkling, over the +leaves, and also the ground upon which they are standing. + +Aotus gracillimus.--When done blooming, to be cut down close to the +pot. + +Aphelexis and Helichrysums.--When past their best state, cut the +flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady +place until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be +repotted. + +Chrysanthemums.--Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf +stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out +in rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago. + +Cinerarias.--Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow +seed. + +Fuchsias.--Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings. + +Leschenaultias.--When they are going out of bloom, or past their +best, remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool +place to start again. + +Kalosanthes.--When done blooming, the flower-stems and all +straggling growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens +for another season. + +Pelargoniums.--Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as +advised lately. + +Pimelea spectabilis.--When that and the other kinds have done +blooming, to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place +to break. + +Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the _Pimeleas_. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as +visible. The _Gishurst Compound_ is worthy of a trial. Follow former +instructions as to moisture and air. + +Ixoras.--When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be +started in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended +on baskets, or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the +roots, and frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little +fire-heat applied in the afternoon will be of service to them. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing +towards maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the +atmosphere should be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely +every fine day. Keep the foliage clean and healthy, and clear from +insects, and do not allow the young shoots to get crowded. + +Melons.--Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep +the plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root, +with an abundance of air in fine weather. + +Pines.--Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting +and succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the +application of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by +saturation. The walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept +constantly moist, and frequent syringings to be given to the young +stock. Continue all other routine operations according to former +directions. + +Strawberries.--Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong, +rich loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have +made roots enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in +small pots, to be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer +to lay them in their fruiting-pots. The principal object should be, +to attain plants of a moderate growth, well matured and rested +before forcing time. + +Vines.--The early houses, when they have been cleared of their +fruit, and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed +and repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free +exposure to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be +encouraged to swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure +water, and by being carefully thinned, more especially if they are +wanted to keep late. A little fire-heat will be necessary in +unfavourable weather, with an abundance of air day and night. + + + + +AUGUST. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water. +Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and +exhausted stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the +autumn is fast approaching, the sooner the new growths are +encouraged the better, that they may have sufficient time to mature +them. All greenhouse plants will now be benefited by exposure to the +natural atmosphere: the dews are more refreshing and invigorating +than artificial moisture or the application of the syringe. + +Finish _potting_ all specimen plants; for if left until later in the +season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with +roots, and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of +water at the roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that +of surrounding it with fresh soil for months when the roots should +be in a comparatively dormant state. + +Pelargoniums.--Continue to head them down, and to propagate the +cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the +open ground. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during +warm weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias, +and other such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them +betimes. The _Æschynanthus grandiflorus_, _Aphelandra cristata_, +_Eranthemum pulchellum_, Justicias, and any others that are intended +for the decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part +of winter, should be carefully looked over, and shifted without +delay if they want more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly, +and to be exposed to as much sun as they will bear without +scorching the foliage, to induce stocky growth. Nothing is more +injurious to stove plants than to keep them growing late in the +season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the wood, which will +render them more liable to injuries in winter and more unproductive +of flowers the following season. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Melons.--The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept +rather dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable +weather. A steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops. + +Peaches.--If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced +houses, it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible, +that the air, rain, and dews may have free access to act both +beneficially on the trees and to keep down red spider. In those +houses which have been treated as advised in former Calendars, the +principal object now should be to get the wood properly ripened. The +late houses to be treated in a similar manner when the fruit is +gathered. Where the trees in peach-houses have been recently +planted, and are not yet in a bearing state, the shoots will require +to be trained carefully, and insects to be kept down. + +Pines.--The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended +to with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate +the whole body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is +moist while the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest +successions for early forcing next season. + +Strawberries.--Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to +force in pots until you have a sufficient number. + +Vines.--Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a +little fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are +better flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is +delayed to a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray +laterals that begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little +at a time, as disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to +fruit trees. The young Vines in pots to have every attention, to +secure as much growth and healthy vigour as possible while the +growing season lasts. Allow all young planted Vines to ramble freely +without stopping them so closely, as is frequently practised. Before +wasps and flies do much mischief to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass +should be fixed over the top lights and front lights that are opened +for the admission of air. Remove decayed berries as soon as +observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit dry and free from +dust. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Bulbs.--The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made +as soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each +season; to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be +potted in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in +a dry situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan +or coal ashes. + +Camellias.--The large, old specimens that have set their +flower-buds to be carefully supplied with water; for if they are +allowed to get too dry at the roots they are apt to drop their buds. +Young vigorous plants, on the contrary, will require to be watered +rather sparingly, to prevent them making a second growth. + +Cinerarias.--Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to +watering, &c., cause a check to their growth. + +Climbers.--To have a succession late in the season when flowers +become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose, +more especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises. + +New Holland Plants.--If any have been standing out of doors for +some time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender +varieties to the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the +danger and risk of exposure to wet or windy weather. + +Soils.--Now is a favourable time to collect soils of different +sorts for future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters +will become evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould, +decomposed sheep, deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old +Cucumber, Melon, and other such soils, to be put in separate heaps +in a shed, or any other dry place, protected from drenching rains. +Each sort to be numbered, or named, that no mistake may occur when +wanted. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied +with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other +stove plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the +water to be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up +early in the afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be +made in the daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air +may be given to the plants. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed +early, for the benefit of the second crop of fruit. + +Melons.--Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden +supply at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and +become worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may +receive the benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the +sun's rays till it is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water +to the late crops, and thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to +paint the interior of the frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with +slight syringings and shutting up early while the sun shines upon +it, will keep down insects. + +Mushrooms.--Collect some very short stable-litter and +horse-droppings, and turn them over frequently with the addition of +a small portion of turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When +moderately dry, to be packed on shelves or in boxes, and be +well-beaten down in layers four or five inches thick, till the bed +is the required thickness--from a foot to eighteen inches; for +success will depend in a great measure upon the solidity of the bed. +To be spawned when there is a brisk heat. + +Pines.--If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been +added, the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any +approach to a burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots, +&c. Fruit recently started and swelling off to have every +encouragement for the next two months. Shut up early, to secure a +strong amount of solar heat. Keep all the growing stock warm and +moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day. + +Vines.--The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe, +would be benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights +are required to remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all +laterals kept down. When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and +when the weather is wet or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied, +will expel damps, and be in other respects very beneficial to them. +Stop all useless growths in the late houses; do not remove the +leaves to expose the fruit to the sun, unless they are very thick +indeed, as they are the principal agents by which nutriment is +carried to the berries. + +Vines in Pots.--When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the +north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to +keep the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will +protect them from sudden changes. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or in +pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms, +preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and +washing all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all +crevices and corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting +there. When by scrubbing, brushing, &c., you have brought everything +to the ground, let no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish, +&c., off the ground, and also out of the house. If painting and +glazing are necessary, the sooner they are done the better, leaving +the house entirely open for three weeks or a month, that the +effluvium from white lead, which is prejudicial to plants, may pass +off before the lights are put on again. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants +that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as +soon as they have filled their pots with roots. + +Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the +bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there +is a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will +allow of the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot. + +Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be +necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally--and +especially that of all those whose period of excitement is continued +over a certain portion of the autumn--so arranged and circumstanced +as to secure its perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have +it "well ripened." For that purpose it is necessary to avoid the +application of moisture beyond what is necessary to prevent a +decided check in the growth of the plants, to expose them to the +influence of light, by not suffering them to crowd or overhang each +other, and to prevent from what cause soever the too sudden +declension of the average temperature to which they are exposed. + +The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have plenty of moisture +and heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and +then it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the +supply of water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house. + +Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may be separated +or potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in +baskets. Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts, +and peg them altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the +summit place your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another +plant, and with four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go +where they please in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for +sustenance upon the atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Peaches.--It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off +the early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing +towards a state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely +indispensable, but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the +lights are off or on, attention may now be given to the repairs of +glass or woodwork where necessary, and to finish with a coat of +paint and whitewashing, if possible. + +Pines.--The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over +in hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water. +Continue to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the +parent plants, as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if +left out of the ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung +pits, as all Pine plants, in whatever situation, will require a +lively bottom heat of 90°. + +Vines.--The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and +rather early (about four o'clock), in order to dispense, if +possible, with fires, giving air by seven o'clock in the morning, +and increasing it abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished +at intervals, in accordance with the state of the weather. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that +they do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to +be given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may +be dry towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps. + +Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a +cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient. + +New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that +have been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or +frame, where they can be protected from heavy rains. + +Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut +down are about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the +roots slightly trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as +advised early in July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for +potting off; when potted, to be placed in a pit or frame, kept +close, and shaded until they have made fresh roots, when they should +be placed out in an open situation to grow firm and stocky, pinching +out the leading shoots; and to be placed on coal ashes, slates, or +boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow the seed immediately +it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of any other perennial +plant, if ripe before the middle of September. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual +increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is +still essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed +with, except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given +to the Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, +Dipladenias, and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil +of large specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed. + +Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in +a mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and +leaf mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a +gentle bottom heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during +bright sunshine. + +Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their +growth. Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing +freely in pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, +tepid, soft water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up +early. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or +other such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good +soaking of water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry +atmosphere is necessary to ripen the fruit. + +Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are +growing in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or +renewed, to produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker +is apt to set in and destroy the plants. + +Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as +recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be +made very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is +advisable when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, +fresh loam at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it +as firm as possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much +better quality than if partly-exhausted soil is used. + +Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them +occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The +growth of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, +&c., to be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines +alone, an abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance +of air to the young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of +the atmosphere, to induce maturity of growth and a hardy +constitution against winter. Shift, if not already done, succession +plants into larger pots. Any plants recently potted to be shaded +during bright sunshine, sprinkled overhead every afternoon, and the +house closed early. The sprinkling will be sufficient without +watering at the root until the plants begin to grow. + +Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when +the ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a +little fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit +in late vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but +more especially when the external temperature ranges below 50°. + + + + +SEPTEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Balsams.--Give them a good watering when they show indications of +drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation +appears, as saturation will be death to them. + +Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When +potted, to be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the +early part of the month, and covered with some porous material--such +as coal ashes, old spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other +material that will serve to keep the roots not only cool and +un-acted on by atmospheric changes, but which, from being moderately +damp, will not abstract moisture from the roots, but keep them +uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs, if obtained now, may +be had in flower at various periods throughout the winter and early +spring. _Amaryllis Johnsoni_, _vittata_, and many other varieties, +are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and orange-flowered +species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the varieties of +_Sparaxis tricolor_, are desirable plants that may be easily bloomed +by gentle forcing. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Pot off seedlings into small pots, and +keep them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the +best kinds; they will strike readily in a common frame. + +Chrysanthemums.--They should now be stopped for the last time, to +produce a late succession of bloom. + +Climbers.--Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or +stakes may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from +the rim of the pot upwards. + +Fuchsias.--To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young +wood, trimming the plants to handsome shapes. If placed or plunged +in a little bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming +till Christmas. + +Lilium lancifolium.--Supply them cautiously with water, as advised +for Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong +their beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the +foot of a south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be +given sparingly until their tops show signs of decay, when they may +be laid on their sides till potting time. The same treatment is +recommended for _Gladioli_ and plants of like habit. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are +finishing or have completed their season's growth in the coolest +part of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air, +and rather cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free +growth should be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but +very little air and a liberal supply of water during very fine +sunshiny weather. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object +should be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is +necessary to be given by exposing them to light and air, and +preserving the leaves from injury, as it is upon their healthy +action that the future crop depends. + +Cherries.--Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early +forcing, to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy, +situation, to continue the regular root action, upon which much of +their future success will depend. + +Figs.--Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of +fruit is ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early +forcing, to be treated as advised for Cherries. + +Peaches.--If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have +performed their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with +sulphur. Trees in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries. + +Pines.--Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth +where it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied +occasionally with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be +supplied with water at the roots, as inattention to that particular +during hot weather is very likely to cause some of the plants to +fruit prematurely. + +Strawberries.--The stock intended for forcing to be carefully +attended to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when +necessary, to be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air, +and a little weak liquid manure, will assist to produce stout +healthy plants for forcing. + +Vines.--When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house +as cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and +expose the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as +possible. Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes +occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest +out-door greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to +be carefully examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the +soil or drainage of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other +indications of the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the +soil, by carefully turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can +generally be picked out. If they are not visible on the outside of +the ball, a small peg stuck in will direct particular attention to +it until the intruder is removed. When staging the plants, a +pleasing variety may be introduced by placing a few on inverted +pots. Sufficient space to be given to each plant to allow the air to +circulate freely around. If there is not sufficient room for all, +the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be rejected, or wintered in a +pit or vinery. When housed, all the air possible should be given in +fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the lights, and only +reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in the weather +take place. + +Heliotropes.--Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy +state for winter flowering. + +Mignonette.--Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring +blooming. + +Pinks.--Pot _Anne Boleyne_ and other sorts, to be well established +before they are wanted for forcing. + +Roses.--Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under +glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate +growth and early blooming. + +Violets.--Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or +leaf mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a +pit or frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early +spring. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is +advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy +shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70° to 80°, +with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas, _Epidendrum +Skinneri_, Lælias, _Lycaste Skinneri_, and _Odontoglossum grande_, +to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed occasionally. +Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except such as +are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as +possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening +influence of the sun. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the +atmosphere. Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight +fires will be useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening +the fruit; and but little syringing and watering will be required +from this time forward. + +Melons.--Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air, +shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In +whatever structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up +the bottom heat by a gentle fire, or by linings. + +Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the +air night and day, and will, therefore, require but little +attention, except an occasional washing with the engine, to remove +insects and to allow the foliage to perform its functions to a +natural decay. If a blank in the house is to be filled up, it may be +done as soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall; and the +crop to be expected from the same tree next season will depend upon +the care with which it is removed, as there will be sufficient time +for the wood to be ripened and the tree to make fresh roots, and to +get sufficiently established before winter. + +Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken +by giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the +plants weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient +command of heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given +at night and on cloudy days. + +Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as +it is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made +after this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is +useful to keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The +bunches to be frequently and carefully looked over and all tainted +berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat +is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the +fruit is cut it is sometimes necessary to keep the atmosphere dry +and rather warm, to ripen the wood. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as +possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when +many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause +them to produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to +damp off at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the +external air will cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally +supplied when they are first taken into the house, as the dry boards +on which they may stand, or the elevated situation and free +circulation of air will occasion a more frequent want of that +element than when they stood on the moist earth. However, by no +means go to the extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary. + +Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the +greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth +is matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at +Christmas, or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the +bloom-buds have swelled to a good size, when they will require but +very little forcing to start them into bloom. + +Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the +success of early forcing depends upon early potting. + +Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas. + +Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been +growing freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a +rather succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked +by this pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an +application of sulphur. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence +with the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be +better prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the +winter season. + +Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by +shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in +a compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in +a soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that +they are liable to rot off at the base of the stem. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a +little liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the +borders, to induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of +the wood and an early rest. + +Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if +not yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary. + +Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still +remaining in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one +end of the pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house +should then be prepared for the best of the succession plants for +the second crop next summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, +although they cannot be expected to produce as fine fruit as if +earlier in the season, will, nevertheless, be found very useful, and +should have every attention given to them while the season continues +favourable. To be placed in the warmest corner of the house, and to +be supplied when dry with a little liquid manure. Continue to grow +on the young stock while the weather continues favourable; for fine +sunny days and moist growing nights are all that we can desire. A +good portion of solar heat to be secured by shutting up early. On +cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep up the +temperature to 70° towards morning. + +Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well +ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much +fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if, +from appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at +rest, the pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the +Grapes not yet ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air +to be given to the house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the +vapour that ascends, if not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will +cause the Grapes to become mouldy and worthless. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to +be taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be +placed in a gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they +have made fresh roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the +dull, dreary months of the approaching winter. + +American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early +spring, the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be +plunged in the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the +forcing-house from November until February, as they may be required. +The most suitable for such a purpose are the Azaleas of the +_nudiflora_ class with various hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_, +_Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L. +thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_, Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora +Canadense_. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the +glass as possible, with plenty of air at all favourable +opportunities. To be duly supplied with water. + +Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of +the buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds, +leaving not more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the +largest and smallest to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves, +if necessary, to be washed clean. + +Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias. + +Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the +application of the Gishurst infallible compound. + +Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds +may be sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of +sheltering them from frost and damp; but if you have no such +convenience, it is advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. +The seed is separated most easily from the pulp by bruising the +berries amongst dry sand, and allowing it to stand in the sun, or in +a warm place, until the moisture has evaporated, when the seed and +sand will be intermixed, and in a fit state to be sown. + +Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas, +and give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the +weather continues favourable. + +New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a +considerable share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be +stopped, to maintain symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant +eye should be kept upon them almost daily, to see that neither +mildew, green fly, nor other such enemies be allowed to injure them. + +Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer, +the sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better. +Clean the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which +they are growing. + +Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiæ, and other such plants to be +gradually curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the +winter and their season of rest. + +Tropæolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T. +tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the +season, begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to +grow slowly through the winter; but if there is no appearance of +growth--which is best for their future success--the roots should be +kept dormant, in a cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, +and protected from mice. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn. +Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry. +Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not +so much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the +house. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain +a healthy atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aërides, +Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the +application of a high temperature, with much moisture and less +shading, to make further and sometimes considerable growth. + +Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some +time longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a +comparatively dormant state by a gradual diminution in the supply of +water, and a decrease in temperature, with less shading. + +Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh +material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable +never to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to +get too far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong +fermentation has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain +in it for some time. The temperature to be kept from 60° to 65°, +with the admission of air for several hours daily. + +Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived +at, or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but +little attention will be necessary, still that little will be +required to keep them clear of insects and of the leaves as they +become sufficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. +The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be removed, +and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. +Remove them without further delay, if not already done, as advised +in the early part of the month, to the north side of a wall or hedge +until wanted; or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they +should be protected from its icy grasp. + +Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries. + +Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening +the late fruit, they will in some places still require the +assistance of a good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air +in the middle of the day. + +Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended +for Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be +planted in the place of any that may be worn out. The choice should +be made of young trees that are in a bearing state, and all the +better if they had been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, +after the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too +crowded; but if the summer pruning, as frequently advised, have been +properly done, but very little, if any, will be required now. To +remove the leaves from the trees in the early houses it is advisable +to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them gently with a few +pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be +removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from insects. + +Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine +management. Whilst fine weather continues air may be given +liberally; and shut up earlier in the afternoon to secure as much +sun heat as possible. Plants swelling their fruit to be assisted +with a brisk temperature, both at top and bottom, from 65° to 70° at +night, allowing it to rise to 80° on sunny days with a steady bottom +heat of about 80°. When watering is necessary let it be given in +sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil. The suckers +and crowns that were potted in the summer months should now be +shifted, if they have grown freely; they should then be plunged in a +brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from which the +plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any remaining +suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged in a +brisk heat in the nursing pit. + +Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it +is intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, +that sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the +buds to become more plump and prominent. The border of the early +house to be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such +material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in +some situations to cover the borders of the houses in which it is +intended to keep Grapes late, to prevent the soil getting saturated +about the roots. Continue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the +mouldy or tainted berries; applying gentle fires only when necessary +to expel damps, with a free circulation of air--as a warm, close +atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the long-rod system is +adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as the fruit is +gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any shoots +to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared; +the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue +to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and +cut out every decayed berry. + + + + +OCTOBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a +portion of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants +kept supplied with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately +moist throughout. Air to be given every day, and also a portion at +night, if the weather continue mild. + +Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in a +convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the +forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time +ago, a few of them may now be excited into growth. + +Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a +showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and +shaded for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the +greenhouse, and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a +fine display. + +Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered +sparingly until they begin to grow. + +Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs, +that a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during +winter. + +Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants +to be potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan +until wanted for forcing. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature +to decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aërides, +Dendrobiums, &c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80° by day +and 70° by night, the Cattleyas will require 10° or 15° less to +bring them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant +excitement they will continue to sprout buds from their +pseudo-bulbs, which generally adds to the size of the plant at the +expense of the blooms. + +Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also +_Gesnera zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during +winter. + +Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by +giving them larger pots if required. + +Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial +attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest +season of the year when flowers are scarce. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is +necessary to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty +of top and bottom heat. + +Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and +whose leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early +rest. A seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to +trees in pots, that they may be in a fit state for forcing early. + +Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give +flavour to the fruit. They will require little or no water after +this. + +Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the +open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from +the nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space +allotted to them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after +being repaired and painted, they should be put upon the houses to +protect the trees and borders from unfavourable weather. + +Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to +give it flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist +atmosphere. Water to be given to the plants cautiously; every one to +be examined before it receives any, and manure water to be dispensed +with altogether. The heat of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing +the linings. The crowns and suckers that are planted in the tan to +have no water; all they require is attention in giving air and +keeping up the heat. + +Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are +intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would +injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such +material had been used over the lights that open in houses +containing fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken +down as little mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks. +Mice are sometimes very troublesome in vineries at this season, and +will spoil a whole house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. +Traps should, therefore, be kept set, and every means used to +prevent their ingress from the garden. Cover the border when the +trees are planted outside, with a good coat of fern or any other +such material before they become saturated and chilled by the +autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in layers, beginning at the +front of the border, the whole to be covered with a thin layer of +good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does the straw on stacks. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will +require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and +regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, +sometimes droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises +from the roots being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the +moisture, and the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth. +This is usually brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as +soon, therefore, as the consequences are observed, the plants should +be examined, and sufficient water given to wet the ball of earth +thoroughly. + +Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a +late Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid +manure will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection. +If any indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of +sulphur, when the foliage is damp, will banish it. + +Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by +the application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering +is over, and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be +set aside in any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept +moderately dry. + +Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring +protection to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other +structure, as near the glass as possible. To be watered regularly; +but, like all other plants, care must be taken that they do not get +too much at any time during the winter. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and +repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in +a gentle bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the +Cypripediums, _Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to +be supplied with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other +sorts--such as the Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c., +that are approaching their dormant state--to be accommodated, if +possible, with a drier and cooler atmosphere. All fast-growing +plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas, &c.--that require large pots +in summer, to be now turned out of their pots, the soil to be shaken +from them, and repotted into the smallest sized pots that will +contain them, without pruning the roots much at this time. + +Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning, +more especially where they obstruct the light in any material +degree. The Combretums, Echites, Ipomsæas, Mandevillas, +late-blooming Passifloras, Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, +&c., which are still growing, to be regulated with a more gentle +hand, cutting out but little more than barren shoots, and drawing +the remainder into somewhat closer festoons, to allow the more free +admission of sunlight into the interior of the house. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be +making progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up +a good heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable +opportunities, to get them strong and vigorous against the winter +months. Stop mildew by dusting the leaves with sulphur. + +Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous +directions. Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a +genial humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to +keep them sweet and free from mouldiness. + +Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is +advisable to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent +the admission of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis, +whitewash the flues and walls, and make every part of the house +clean. Dress the trees with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur in +hot water; to be well rubbed in with a brush or sponge. + +Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any +decaying berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time, +and if any plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept +under the Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a +little fire heat in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. +Whatever system of pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur, +it is advisable, when the brown scale is visible, to take off the +loose bark, to wash them, and the wires and rafters, with soft soap +dissolved in hot water, using a hard brush, being careful not to +injure the buds; afterwards to apply hot lime, made to the +consistency of thick paint. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The decline of temperature and less watering must go on +progressively, more especially in dull weather, with free +ventilation at all favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold, +use a little fire-heat occasionally during the day, especially where +there are many plants in bloom, that ventilation may be given to +expel damp and stagnant air. + +Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to +be shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots. +The compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, +and one part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and +will thrive tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost +during the winter. They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal +ashes, and kept as near to the glass as possible. + +Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse, +be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be +given carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded +by mats, or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy +by free exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if +they are shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed. + +Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The +soil to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks +at the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant +through the winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage +and keeping the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a +hotbed frame will find it useful to start the seeds by moderate +heat. Others who have no such convenience may place their pots in a +cold frame in a sheltered situation, and upon a floor of rough +stones overlaid with ashes. + +Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter +the better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should +be given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at +all favourable opportunities. + +Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the +glass as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of +green fly, and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a +healthy condition. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot +to be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy +pieces to form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the +tops and sides of these pieces of soil, by which there is more +probability of some of them vegetating than if they had been sown on +a level surface where the whole of the seed would be subjected to +the same kind of treatment, which might with ordinary care be either +too wet or too dry. The pot to be set in a saucer that contains a +little water, which will feed the whole mass with sufficient +moisture without a drop being required on the surface of the pot. +The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the stove where +evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do not like +to be continually kept close under a bell-glass. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould, +supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of +atmospheric moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every +second joint, and setting the fruit as the blossom expands. + +Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is +large, to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or +fence, packed in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any +other such covering, to protect them from heavy falls of rain until +they are wanted for forcing. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs +occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat +during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in +the circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead +leaves, and the destruction of insects. + +Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the +spring; also the Ixiæ and Gladioli, and various other Irideæ; and +also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil +composed of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an +addition to, or substitute for, the peat. + +Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower +as specimens in early spring. + +Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All +suckers and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be +thinned. + +Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will +be of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused +by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; +the principal shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly +and useless ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage +a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, +dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the +green fly. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at +the second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length +before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they +are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop. + +Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their +leaves. If the lights are still off any of the early houses the +sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given. + +Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from +60° to 65° at night, with an increase during the day in accordance +with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy, +foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. +Humidity to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to +produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession +plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by +having a small quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated +by dung will require covering with mats at night: when covered let +every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass +off. When the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the +glass. Take advantage of all opportunities for giving a little air. +If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of +the plants. + +Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned +for some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature +wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If +the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed +amongst decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a +good condition for holding on for a long time. + + + + +NOVEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, +it is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth +free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire +to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a +free circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the +afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments +of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in +severely, night coverings, if possible, should be applied in +preference to fire-heat. + +American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, +hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required +for winter forcing. + +Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent +the flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, +and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their +beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost +entirely denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably +detracts from what should be their ornamental appearance in the +greenhouse or conservatory. + +Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward +a shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for +cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the +flowers like the single varieties. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Great caution will now be necessary in the application of +atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a +premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could +thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove +plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60°, with a fall of 8° +or 10° during the night. + +Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants +of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; +they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when +in bloom. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to +the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam +in the frames. + +Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now +be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be +taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should +be taken to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and +_Violette Hâtive_ Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse +Mignonne_, and _Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for +forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although +they may bear abundantly. + +Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, +to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the +spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so +that it may range from 60° to 65°. The winter-fruiting plants to +range 10° higher. + +Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the +house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, +be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet +weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which +may be a useful hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in +other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the +Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. +When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected +from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly +injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; +shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little +or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest. + +Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared +for forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light +is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be +mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early +action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in +which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be +introduced immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, +Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, +Honeysuckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs +that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be +introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an +inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the +pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan. + +Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the +atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give +air freely. + +Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the +most forward may be accelerated by a little heat. + +Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs +to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant +erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down +gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by +diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more +liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen +kinds--such as some of the Aërides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, +Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the warmest situation. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be +made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still +retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be +placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches +of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any +deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the +heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air. + +Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require +shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be +plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the +roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately. + +Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, +as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be +required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the +leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with +soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one +ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. +Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary. +Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the +size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots +plunged in leaves. + +Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be +encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are +likely to "show" for the next two months to be supplied with a +temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just +beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening +and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently +renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become +suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be +collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for +lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves +contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water +to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants +as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in +consequence. + +Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small +hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be +taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and +protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and +suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather. + +Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house +is at work is the best place for both. + +Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which +fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and +free from anything likely to create mould or damp. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and +dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion +wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity +to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free +admission of air. + +Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The +_A. Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be +succeeded by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other +varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they +are invaluable where they continue for six weeks or two months in +perfect beauty. + +Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid +state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full +and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required +early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where +heat is applied. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and +such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or +importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light +situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality +sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely +through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and +see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid, +even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require +attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable +day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of +that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept +neat, and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or +suspended from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the +most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough +cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of +Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed. + +Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be +filled within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of +old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about +equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the +forcing-house for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are +then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the finger +about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then +thinned out, according to the strength of the plants, to six or +eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering. When the two first +leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as +the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots, +taking especial care that they do not become too wet, or they will +damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to cause +them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be +placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese Dwarf_ and +_Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing. + +Figs.--A temperature of about 40° will suit them at present; if +allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to +be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up. + +Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an +application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of +summer heat (76°), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose +services are required before much excitement takes place at top. + +Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to +be very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, +more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of +about 70°, with a steady top temperature of about 60° during the +day, and about 55° during the night, will keep the plants in a +comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the +temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a +degree as to endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season, +nor to rise so high as to excite them into a growth that would be +immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of +water will also be necessary. + +Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss +of time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly +healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early +spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for +forcing should either be placed within the protection of the house +appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, +when necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be +applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the +vapour to pass off. All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be +carefully picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or +anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or +decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the +half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly. + +Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as +possible with the admission of light. + +Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and +recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room, +conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful +attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on +suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the +daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be +shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in +preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or +frequent and moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to +destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when applied to the +roots or branches when they require it. + +New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to +cold draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same +house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should +occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when +necessary, from the top lights only. + +Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for +out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. +It is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be +kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, +as that their roots be kept in a healthy, active state. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be +procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle +heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at +once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, +or frames, may be made available for the purpose of forcing +Asparagus. + +Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches. + +Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command +of bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little +attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe +to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is +indispensable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for +that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants should +be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in +good repair. + +Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly +directed. The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the +surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few +degrees warmer than the temperature of the house. + +Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being +thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and +tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at +night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the +commencement of forcing. + +Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season +should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a +moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with +safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings +will require some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or +shutters--to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a +gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their +season of rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly +all they will require. If the young plants are growing in pits +heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from +the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants. + +Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the +old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, +to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the +wood, and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be +covered with a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat +by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All +Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately. + + + + +DECEMBER. + + +FIRST WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as +possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or +rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too +high--say greenhouse from 50° to 55° by day and from 40° to 45° by +night; conservatory 60° by day and 50° by night. Chrysanthemums to +be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early +Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention +now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this +season, as the least saturation or interference with the root action +will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. +_Poinsettia pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a +noble ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ +and _rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at +this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, +with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. +_Gesnera zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of +the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter +flower. + +Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of +plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They +can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without +sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying +influence of fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and +which is very frequently death to the plants. They will require but +very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be +very particularly examined as to their state of dryness or +otherwise, as a guide to the application or withholding of water. +An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants +from growing. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The +temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of +exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on +fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface +of the soil in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and +lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure the +roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and +all climbing plants neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, +Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will now be approaching +a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no +water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place +them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by themselves. +Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to +keep them safe and sound. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted. + +Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the +temperature steadily at or near 60°. A fresh bed to be made and +spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional crops. + +Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and +moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the +main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every +favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70° to 75° and +from 55° to 60° at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful +attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, +admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent +them from being injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung +linings, constant watching will be necessary to prevent any +fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in +case of frost. + +Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the +Vines by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as +advised last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the +atmosphere regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood +should be syringed frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, +kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be protected, and +afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the buds are fairly swelled. +As it is advisable to proceed very slowly with early Vines, the +temperature to range from 55° to 60° by day and from 45° to 50° by +night, and even rather under than over the above scale. Late Grapes +will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look over them +frequently, and dry the house by fire during the day. + + +SECOND WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be +removed as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an +application of flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented +from making its appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild +mornings, using a little fire heat at the same time. Great caution +is now necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially to +such as have not well matured their growth, and are in a rather soft +state. It is also advisable to look over them every morning, that +the flagging of a leaf may be noticed, and the necessary supply of +water be given. All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep +the plants uniform. + +Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no +more water than is really required. Keep down green fly. + +Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to +keep out frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive +their final shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable +weather. Every one that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green +fly to be kept down by fumigating. The most forward to have the +lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with sufficient +space for the air to circulate freely around the foliage of each. + +Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be +avoided, except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling +below 40°, or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom +to be arranged in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of +twisted bass under the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened +to secure the shoots and the better formation of the plant, obviates +the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of which is at all +times objectionable. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the +application of water are more especially required, as there is not a +single feature in the cultivation of plants during the winter in +which the amateur is more likely to err, and by reason of which a +greater amount of injury is sustained, than in the application of +water either in its fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the soil +in superabundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain +some degree of injury; and if it is applied in excess to the +atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the leaves of +the plants will be checked in consequence of the density of the +medium that surrounds them when they will be sure to suffer. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A +one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most +suitable for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and +congenial for their healthy vegetation and growth. + +Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the +buds, and keep every plant clean and neat. + +Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during +severe weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those +that have done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that +they may not receive a check from being over-dry at the roots. + +Vines.--Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to +produce fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere to "break" +the early Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week. +Keep the wood generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution +as before advised. As the most essential point in early forcing is +to secure a healthy and vigorous root action, it is advisable, if +the Vines are planted inside, to excite the roots by an occasional +application of water at a temperature from 85° to 90°. It the Vines +are planted outside, a steady heat of about 60° should be maintained +by the fermenting matter placed on the border to be frequently +turned over, and protected with dry litter from the frost or other +unfavourable weather. Houses intended to commence forcing the early +part of next month, to have some fermenting materials placed on the +borders to excite the roots a little before the Vines are started, +which will be of some assistance to make the buds push strongly and +without much loss of time. To induce the buds to break regularly +throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is frequently necessary +to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward buds to the lowest +level, and to elevate the most backward. + + +THIRD WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a +confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat +than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must +be counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes +condensed on the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the +beauty of the flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The +best corrective for such unfavourable results is to be found in +keeping the temperature as low as may be consistent with the safety +of the plants, and in withholding moisture as much as possible +whenever the glass is affected by frost. See that the young stock of +Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Persian Cyclamens, and other such +flowers, that are grown especially for winter, are accommodated +with a light, airy situation, and receive regular attention as +regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums until they are +thoroughly dry, and keep down insects. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and +only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be +accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60° by day, and +50° by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before +the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do +not expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our +collections of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of +growth, and various kinds of temperature and climate, it is +difficult to cultivate in one house a miscellaneous collection of +them so satisfactorily as where there are two divisions, the one +commanding a higher temperature, with more moisture, than the other. +Where there is no such division, advantage may be taken of a +forcing-pit, or other such house, to which any of them now in a +growing state may be removed, and thus their growth may be promoted +without injury to the general collection. For the general collection +a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are now desirable, as no +plants are more benefited by a season of rest than Orchids. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +All Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be secured +from frost and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an +excellent plunging medium for such of these as are wanted very +early. Keep up a succession of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb, +Sea-kale, &c., according to the demand. + +Cucumbers.--Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too +many appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time, +and now appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour +again by a judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of +a top dressing of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of +liquid manure occasionally. + +Peaches.--A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as +beneficial to Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it +can but rarely be made use of, in consequence of the difference in +the structure of the interior, moisture must be supplied by other +means, such as syringing and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when +warm. A few trees, in pots, are useful for early forcing, as they +can be easily plunged in a pit or any other convenient place where a +mild regular bottom heat can be supplied. The trees for this purpose +must have been grown and established for some time in pots. + +Pines.--A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up +to carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the +winter. A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management +of the succession plants. + +Strawberries.--If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the +strongest plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and +placed in a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the +back or front shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for +forcing, to be placed near the glass with a free admission of air on +fine days. + +Vines.--It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with +a low temperature--say, 55° by day and 50° by night, to be increased +5° more until they break, when it may be raised to 60° at night, and +65° in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees by +sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they +break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines +are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it +constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the +loose bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished +by an application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient +composition of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the +fruit is ripe, a little fire heat will be necessary in frosty +weather to prevent the vapour that adheres to the glass on the +inside being frozen, for the moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon +the bunches causing injury to the bloom, and decay to the berries. + + +FOURTH WEEK. + +GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. + +Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest +degree compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In +damp, foggy weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during +the day to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather +it is advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more +especially at night. From 45° by night to 50° by day will be +sufficient for the conservatory, and 40° for the mixed greenhouse. +To give a pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is +advisable to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of +flower to be removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the +forcing-pit. All plants in these and other departments to be +regularly looked over, removing the dead leaves and tying in +straggling branches. The surface soil to be stirred a little, and +some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are benefited by exposure to +frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked or frozen surface +every morning, until the whole is turned over and penetrated by the +frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are destroyed, +and the soil considerably ameliorated. + +Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots if they +require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately +through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get +thoroughly dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to +pull or to cut them off too close to the stem, by which the +flower-shoots would be very likely to get injured. + +Camellias.--Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to +great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to +drop their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often +fall off without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden +changes in the temperature to which they are exposed. For instance: +when the buds are nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them +to push too rapidly; and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at +the time checks their growth, and in other cases causes them to +fall. The heat required to expand the blossom-buds is about 60° by +day, and 50° by night. If this be attended to, the plants will +continue in flower for a great length of time, as the plants in that +heat are not excited to grow. A little weak manure water to be given +occasionally to the blooming plants. + +Chrysanthemums.--When they begin to fade, to be removed to the +north side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan, +leaves, or sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter. + +Cytisuses.--Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the +coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at +all favourable opportunities. + +Orange Trees.--These, or other such plants that have not been +recently potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil +and supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping +the leaves clean and healthy. + + +STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. + +As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of +heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the +freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10° or 15° above +freezing, we would advise from 50° by night to 60° by day, for the +stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer +from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and +either the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of +the hothouse would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias, +Euphorbias, Luculias, &c. Such plants should be carefully tied up +and placed in the most conspicuous situations, or some of them may +be removed to the conservatory so as to prolong their season of +blooming. + +Allamandas.--Continue the temperature and treatment as lately +advised. To be potted, as also _Stephanotis_, &c., and trained +preparatory to starting them into growth, about the beginning of the +new year. + +Forcing-pit.--Introduce such plants as are generally used for +forcing, especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley, +Sweet Briar, Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual +Roses, and bulbous plants. + +Ixoras.--To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to +have plenty of air at favourable opportunities. + + +FORCING-HOUSES. + +Cucumbers.--No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants +are ridged out and in action. + +Peaches.--It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and +some other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing +in pots, and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage +of being able to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which +is of the greatest importance in early forcing. Those who have good +established trees, in pots, may now start them in a moderate heat. +Air to be given liberally in favourable weather, and the syringe to +be used freely over them morning and evening. The surface soil to be +stirred up and kept open, and a supply of manure water to be given +previous to starting them. The trees in the late houses to receive +whatever pruning is necessary, and to be cleansed of every particle +of scale, and afterwards washed with a composition of soft soap and +sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to be carefully removed. + +Pines.--During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw, +&c., will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be +of more service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the +temperature. When a supply of fruit is required throughout the year, +it is sometimes necessary, at this season, to subject some of the +plants to a high temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such +as are most likely to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by +themselves, where a temperature of from 60° to 65° by night, and +from 70° to 75° by day, with about 80° of bottom heat, will be the +most certain treatment for starting them into fruit. The other +plants can then be supplied with a moderate temperature until the +beginning of February; by such treatment a succession of fruit will +be prolonged. Do not suffer the linings of dung-beds to decline, +keep up, if possible, a temperature of 50° at night, and 60° by day, +with a little air at every favourable opportunity. + +Potatoes.--Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in +three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit, +or in any other place where there is some heat, they will, in due +time, be useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames +or pits. + +Raspberries.--When a few early dishes would be considered a treat, +if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the +Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common +care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting +them. + +Vines.--When started and until the buds are fairly broken, +endeavour to keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with +the lowest part of the Vine, and if that should not be found +sufficient to induce the buds to start regularly throughout the +whole length of the Vine, the rod should be bent so as to bring the +most forward buds to the lowest level, and elevating those that are +backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up by sprinkling the floor +and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly every morning and +evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the supply of +moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots to +some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not +done as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful +for early work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines +in houses, from the hazardous operation of early excitement. +Increase the temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to +swell, or are starting a little. The fermenting material in the +house to be stirred up occasionally. This fermenting material +should, if possible, consist of a large proportion of leaves mixed +with the dung, to prevent the steam from the latter discolouring the +rafters and sashes; and if the vapour is likely to be too strong, a +thin covering of sawdust or old tan will prevent any injurious +effects. If the roots are outside the house, and had been covered +before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more dung and +leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border, the +good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the +Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the +Vines to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with +white lead. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In-Door Gardening for Every Week in +the Year, by William Keane + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN-DOOR GARDENING *** + +***** This file should be named 31423-8.txt or 31423-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/4/2/31423/ + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Dave Morgan and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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