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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by
+John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters from China and Japan
+
+Author: John Dewey
+        Alice Chipman Dewey
+
+Editor: Evelyn Dewey
+
+Release Date: January 22, 2010 [EBook #31043]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN
+
+
+BY
+
+JOHN DEWEY, Ph.D., LL.D.
+
+PROFESSOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY
+
+
+AND
+
+ALICE CHIPMAN DEWEY
+
+
+Edited by
+
+EVELYN DEWEY
+
+
+NEW YORK
+E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
+681 FIFTH AVENUE
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1920,
+
+By E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
+
+_All Rights Reserved_
+
+_Printed in the United States of America_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+John Dewey, Professor of Philosophy in Columbia University, and his
+wife, Alice C. Dewey, who wrote the letters reproduced in this book,
+left the United States early in 1919 for a trip to Japan. The trip was
+eagerly embarked on, as they had desired for many years to see at
+least something of the Eastern Hemisphere. The journey was to be
+solely for pleasure, but just before their departure from San
+Francisco, Professor Dewey was invited, by cable, to lecture at the
+Imperial University at Tokyo, and later at a number of other points in
+the Japanese Empire. They traveled and visited in Japan for some three
+to four months and in May, after a most happy experience, made doubly
+so by the unexpected courtesies extended them, they decided to go on
+to China, at least for a few weeks, before returning to the United
+States.
+
+The fascination of the struggle going on in China for a unified and
+independent democracy caused them to alter their plan to return to the
+United States in the summer of 1919. Professor Dewey applied to
+Columbia University for a year's leave of absence, which was granted,
+and with Mrs. Dewey, is still in China. Both are lecturing and
+conferring, endeavoring to take some of the story of a Western
+Democracy to an Ancient Empire, and in turn are enjoying an
+experience, which, as the letters indicate, they value as a great
+enrichment of their own lives. The letters were written to their
+children in America, without thought of their ever appearing in print.
+
+                                                     EVELYN DEWEY.
+
+NEW YORK,
+January 5th, 1920.
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Monday, February.
+
+
+Well, if you want to see one mammoth, muddy masquerade just see Tokyo
+to-day. I am so amused all the time that if I were to do just as I
+feel, I should sit down or stand up and call out, as it were, from the
+housetops to every one in the world to come and see the show. If it
+were not for the cut of them I should think that all the cast-off
+clothing had been misdirected and had gone to Japan instead of
+Belgium. But they are mostly as queer in cut as they are in material.
+Imagine rummaging your attic for the colors and patterns of past days
+and then gathering up kimonos of all the different colors and patterns
+and sizes and with it all a lot of men's hats that are like nothing
+you ever saw, and very muddy streets, and there you have it. The
+'ricksha men have their legs fitted with tight trousers and puttees to
+end them, and they are graceful. They run all day, through the mud and
+snow and wet in these things made of cotton cloth that are neither
+stockings nor shoes but both, and they stand about or sit on steps and
+wait, and yet they get through the day alive. I am distracted between
+the desire to ride in the baby cart and the fear of the language,
+mixed with the greater fear of the pain of being drawn by a
+fellow-being. They are a lithe set of little men and look as if they
+had steel springs to make them go when you look at their course. Still
+I have been only in autos, of which there are not many here. I get
+tired with the excitement of the constant amusement. This morning a
+man came out of a curio shop. Bow. "Exguse me, madame, is this not
+Mrs. Daway? I knew you because I saw your picture in the paper. Will
+you not come in and look at our many curios? I shall have the pleasure
+of bringing them to your hotel. What is the number of your room,
+madame?" Bow. "No, please do not bring them to my room, for I am
+always out. I will come in and see them sometime." "Thank you, madame,
+please do so, madame, we have many fine curios." Bow. "Good-morning,
+madame."
+
+The looks of the streets are like the clothes, just left over from the
+past ages. Of course Tokyo is the modern city of Japan, and we shall
+watch out for the ancient ones when it comes their turn. I wish I
+could give you an idea of the looks of the poor. The children up to
+the age of about thirteen appear never to wipe their noses. Combine
+this effect (more effect than in Italy) with several kimonos, one on
+top of the other, made of cotton and wool of bright colors and
+flowered, with a queer brown checked one on top; this wadded and much
+too big, therefore hitched up round the waist. Swung in this outside
+one a baby is carried on the back, the little baby head with black
+bangs or still fuzzy scalp sticking out, nose never yet touched by a
+handkerchief, wearer of the baby with a nose in the same condition if
+at a tender age--I scream inside of me as I go about, and it is more
+exciting than any play ever. We are as much curiosities to them as
+they are to us, though we live where the most foreigners go. Now on
+top of it all we can no more make a car driver understand where we
+want to go than if we were monkeys. We can't find any names on the
+streets, we can't read a sign except the few that are in English; the
+streets wind in any and every direction; they are long and short and
+circular, while a big canal circles through the part of the city where
+we are and we seem to cross it every few minutes; every time we cross
+it we think we are going in the same direction as the last time we
+crossed it. About this stage of our search your father goes up to a
+young fellow with an ulster on, and capes, and a felt hat that is like
+a fedora except for a few inches taken out of its height, and says to
+him, Tei-ko-ku Hotel, which would mean the Imperial Hotel if he had
+pronounced it right, and the boy turns around and says, "Do you want
+ze Imperialee Hoter?" And we say, "Yes" (you bet), and the fellow
+says, "Eet is ze beeg building down zere," so we wade along some more
+with all the clog walkers looking at our feet till we come to this old
+barn of a place where we are paying as much as at a Fifth Avenue
+hotel, and get clear soup for dinner. Just like any one of those
+old-fashioned French places where they measure out with care all they
+give you, and where the head is a most distinguished and conspicuous
+jack-in-the-box who jacks at you all the time, bows every time you go
+down the hall and all and all and all. It is all so screamingly funny.
+The shops are nearly as big as our bedrooms at home with enough space
+to step in and leave your shoes before you mount the takenomo and walk
+on the mats. We could not go into any shop, except the foreign book
+stores, because we were too dirty and had no time to unlace our shoes
+even if we wanted to wear out our silk stockings. We shall have some
+nice striped socks before we begin to do shopping. I am possessed with
+the notion of trying the clogs.
+
+
+
+
+Tuesday, February 11 (TOKYO).
+
+
+To-day is a holiday, so we cannot go to the bank, but we can go to a
+meeting where they will discuss universal franchise and
+democratization generally. The Emperor is said to be indisposed, so he
+will not come to the celebration. His illnesses, like everything else
+about him, are arranged by the ministers and mistresses, as near as we
+can make out.
+
+We are having so many interesting experiences and impressions that it
+is already difficult to catch up in writing them down. Yesterday
+morning we went to walk and in the afternoon we were taken out in a
+car so that we have got over the first impression of the surface. We
+saw the university and the park where the tombs of the shoguns are,
+and those tombs are wonderful, just to look at from the car. About
+to-morrow we may be able to go to the museum. The rows of stone
+lanterns are impressive beyond anything I had imagined; hundreds of
+them which must have given to the nights they illuminated a
+wonderfully weird spectral look.
+
+It is not fully true that the Japanese are not interested in their
+history. At least the educated are, as in any other country. A friend
+told us about the revival of interest in the tea ceremony. He is going
+to arrange for us to go to one somewhere, he did not say where, but it
+will be accompanied by a grand dinner and will express the
+magnificence of the new rich as well as the taste of old Japan, to
+judge from the impressions he gave us. He told us of an old Chinese
+cup for the tea ceremony that a certain millionaire has recently paid
+160,000 yen for. That means $80,000. He says the collectors have
+various sets, and each set will often represent a million dollars.
+This particular bowl is of black porcelain with decorations of bright
+color. He told us also of a tea which is now produced in China by
+grafting the tea branches on to lemon trees. He has some of this tea
+which was given him by the Chinese ambassador and so I hope we may get
+a taste of it.
+
+Apropos of this hotel you will be interested to know the manager who
+runs the house has just come home from the Waldorf and from London
+where he has been learning how to do--people. The exchange rates they
+offered Papa seem to be an index of their line of development and they
+are going to build more. This is _the_ one first-class hotel in Japan.
+At present they have only about sixty rooms or a little more.
+
+In general, things are coming along promisingly. I should be through
+lecturing by the first of April here, which is _just_ the time to
+begin traveling. It turns out a good scheme to come in winter, for the
+weather, while not cheerful, is far from really cold, though it is not
+easy to see just how the palms thrive in the snow. Japan seems to have
+developed a peculiar type of semi-tropical vegetation which endures
+freezing and winter. I can foresee that we are going to be busy
+enough, and for the next few weeks your mother is going to have more
+time for miscellaneous sightseeing than I. It is indescribably
+fascinating; in substance, of course, like the books and pictures, but
+nothing really prepares you for the fact that it is not only real in
+quality but on such a vast scale---not just specimens here and there.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Thursday, February 13.
+
+
+We have done our first independent shopping to-day. I can't get over
+my astonishment at the amount and quality of English spoken here; it
+is about as easy shopping in this store, the big department store, as
+it is at home--much easier as respects attention and comfort. They
+give us little wrappers or feet gloves to put over our shoes. Think of
+what an improvement that would be in muddy weather in Chicago.
+
+This afternoon is sort of a lull after the storm of sociability and
+hospitality which reached its temporary height yesterday. Let me give
+the diary. Before we had finished breakfast--and we have eaten every
+morning at eight until to-day--people began to call. Then two
+gentlemen took us to the University in their car and we called on the
+President again. He is a gentleman of the old school, Confucianist I
+suppose, and your mother was much impressed at being taken in, instead
+of staying in the car, but I think he was much more pleased and
+complimented by her call than by mine. Then we were taken to the
+department store to which I have already alluded. Many people do all
+their buying there, because there are fixed prices with a reward for a
+discovery of any place where the same goods are sold cheaper, and
+absolute honesty as to quality. But they also said that was the easy
+way to visit Japan and learn about the clothes, ornaments, toys, etc.,
+and also to see the people, as the Japanese from all over the country
+come there to see the sights. There were a group of country people in;
+they are called red blankets, not greenhorns, because they wear in
+winter a red bed blanket gathered with a string, instead of an
+overcoat. Then at night it comes in handy.
+
+The stores are already displaying the things for the girls' festival
+though it doesn't come till early March--this is the peach fete, and
+the display of festive dolls--king and queen, servants, ladies of the
+court in their old costumes, is very interesting and artistic. They
+have certainly put the doll to uses which we haven't approached. Then
+we had lunch at the store, a regular Japanese lunch, which tasted very
+good, and I ate mine with chop sticks. Then they brought us back to
+the hotel, and at two a friend came and took me to call on Baron
+Shibusawa--I suppose even benighted foreigners like yourself will know
+who he is, but you may not know that he is 83, that he has a skin like
+a baby's, and shows all the signs of the most acute mental vigor, or
+that for the last two or three years he has given up all business and
+devoted himself to philanthropic and humanitarian activities. He does
+evidently what not many American millionaires do; he takes an
+intellectual and moral interest, and doesn't merely give money. He
+explained for about half an hour or more his theory of life (he is
+purely a Confucianist and not a religionist of any kind), and what he
+was trying to do, especially that it isn't merely relief. He is
+desirous to preserve the old Confucian standards only adapted to
+present economic conditions; it is essentially a morality of feudal
+economic relationships, as perhaps you know, and he thinks the modern
+factory employers can be brought to take the old paternal attitude to
+the employees and thus forestall the class struggle here. The radicals
+laugh at the notion here much as they would in the United States, but
+for my part if he can get in a swipe at the Marxian theory of social
+evolution and bring about another type still of social evolution, I
+don't see why he should not have a run for his money. According to all
+reports there is very little labor and capital problem here yet,
+though the big fortunes made by the war and the increased prosperity
+of the workingmen have begun to make a change, it is said. Up to the
+present labor unions have not been permitted, but the government has
+announced that while they are not encouraged they will not be any
+longer forbidden.
+
+But I must get back to the story. Another friend had asked us to go to
+the theater with him, the Imperial Theater, which has European seats
+and is a fine and large building, as fine as in any capital and not
+overdecorated like a New York one. The theater began at four, and,
+with about half an hour intermission for dinner, continued till ten at
+night; the regular Japanese theaters begin at eleven in the morning
+and continue till ten at night and you have your food brought to you;
+also they have no seats and you sit on your legs. None of the plays
+was strictly of the old historic type, but the most interesting one by
+far was adapted from a classic--it centers to some extent about a
+faithful horse, and the people are country farmers of several
+centuries ago. The least interesting was a kind of problem
+play--mostly philosophical discourse of the modern type--the right to
+expression of self and an artistic career, aphorisms having no
+dramatic appeal to even the Japanese audience. These people certainly
+have an alert intelligence--almost as specialized as the Parisian, for
+the audience was distinctly of the people, and no American audience
+could be got to pay the close attention it gave to performances where
+the merits, so far as they are not strictly artistic, in the technique
+of acting which is very highly developed, depend upon catching the
+play of moral emotions rather than upon anything very theatrical.
+However, the classic drama which is based upon old stories and
+traditions is more dramatic and melodramatic. The Japanese also say
+the old theater has much better actors than the semi-Europeanized one
+which is, I suppose, supported by the government. In the Imperial, the
+orchestra seats are one dollar and a half; they are more--on the floor
+at that--in the all-day theaters. Even in this one they have not
+introduced applause, though there was slight handclapping once or
+twice when the curtain went down. The Japanese have always had the
+revolving theater as a means of scene shifting; it works like a
+railway turntable apparently. Well, that ended the day yesterday.
+Except we had invited two gentlemen to dinner, and when we told our
+friends about it, they said, "Oh, just telephone them to come some
+other day," which appears to be good Japanese etiquette, as it is also
+to make calls at any time of the day, so we did. But unfortunately
+they had to telephone to-day that they couldn't come to-night.
+
+To-day has been comparatively calm; we have only had four Japanese
+callers and two American ones. Of the two Japanese, one is a woman who
+is the warden of the Girls' University, and the other is a teacher in
+it, a young woman of a wealthy and aristocratic family who has become
+too modern, I judge, for her family. I hope all you children will make
+a bow to every Japanese you meet and ask him what you can do to be of
+service to him. I shall have to spend the rest of my life trying to
+make up for some of the kindnesses and courtesies which so abound
+here.
+
+I am afraid much of this is more interesting to me to write about than
+it is to you to read, to say nothing of being more interesting to go
+through than to read about. But you can then save the letter for us to
+re-read when we get old and return from our Odysseying, and wish to
+recover the memories of the days when people were so kind that they
+created in us the illusion of being somebody, and gave us the combined
+enjoyments of home and being in a strange and semi-magic country;
+semi-magic for us. For the mass of the people, one can only wonder at
+their cheerfulness and realize what a really old and overcrowded
+country is and how Buddhism and stoic fatalistic cheerfulness develop.
+Don't ever fool yourself into thinking of Japan as a new country; I
+don't any longer believe the people who tell you that you have to go
+to China and India to see antiquity. Superficially it may be so, but
+not fundamentally. Any country is old where birth and death are like
+the coming and dropping of leaves on a tree, and where the individual
+is of as much importance as the leaf. Old world and New world are not
+mere relatives; they are as near absolutes as anything.
+
+We heard a whistle making its cry outside and Mamma thought it was the
+bank messenger, so I rang the bell for the boy to bring him in--but
+alas, it was much less romantic; it was the call of the macaroni
+peddler.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, February.
+
+
+Here we are, one week after landing, on a hill in a beautiful garden of
+trees on which the buds are already swelling. The plums will soon be in
+bloom, and in March the camellias, which grow to fairly large trees. In
+the distance we see the wonderful Fuji, nearby the other hills of this
+district, and the further plains of the city. Just at the foot of our
+hill is a canal, along which is an alley of cherry trees formerly
+famous, but largely destroyed by a storm a few years ago.
+
+We have a wonderful apartment to ourselves, mostly all windows, which in
+this house are glass. A very large bedroom, a small dressing room, and a
+study where I now sit with the sun coming in the windows which are all
+its sides. We need this sun, though the hibashi, or boxes of charcoal,
+do wonders in warming up your feet and drying hair, as I am now doing.
+We are surrounded by all the books on Japan that modern learning has
+produced, so we have never a waiting moment. The house is very large,
+with one house after another covering the hilltop and connected by the
+galleries that are cut off the sides of each room in succession. I shall
+try to get a photo. At the extreme end of the house is Mr. X----'s
+library of several rooms, and at the limit of that the tea room for the
+tea ceremonies. Our host is not one of the new rich who buy sets at a
+million dollars for performing this ceremony. He laughs at that. But
+there is a gold lacquer table which is like transfixed sunshine, and
+there are other pieces of old furniture, which are priceless now, and
+which have come down in his family. You would be amused to see us at
+breakfast, which O-Tei, the maid assigned to us, serves in our sun
+parlor. First we have fruit. Two little lacquer tables to move wherever
+we want to sit. The dishes and service are in our fashion in this house.
+Nice old blue Canton plates and other things Japanese. After fruit she
+makes toast over the charcoal in the hibashi, two little iron sticks
+stuck in the bread to hold it. On these prongs she hands us the toast.
+Meantime she teaches us Japanese and we teach her English which she
+already knows, and she giggles every time we speak. Well, we put our
+toast down on the plate and she disappears. The coffee pot is on a side
+table and we desperately look for cups for ourselves, though with some
+fear of disturbing the etiquette. No cups, she forgot them. After a
+while she comes up again with the cups and we get coffee, then she goes
+down again and brings scrambled eggs on the nice old blue plates. Then
+she giggles a little more and talks in that soft voice that is like
+nothing else we ever heard, as she hands us a nice hot piece of toast on
+an iron spike; she is much pleased and giggles because I tell her the
+toast is not harmed by dropping it on the clean floor, and she walks off
+into the big bedroom to bring the coffee from the gas heater. It is all
+like a pretty play unmarred by any remote ideas about efficiency, and
+time and labor-saving devices. Then two maids make our beds; then they
+dust the floor, one holding up the sofa on edge while the other whisks
+underneath it, and they smile and bow and take an interest in every move
+we make as if we were their dearest friends.
+
+Enter now the housekeeper who, with many bows, announces v-e-r-y
+s-l-o-w-l-y that she would like to accompany me to go about the city and
+to explain things to me, as I would thus teach her English. I asked if
+she were going to church and she said she wasn't a Christian. Think what
+a funny sound that has. She is the secretary of Mr. X---- and a student
+in the new Christian college of which he is the President. She comes in
+now to wait on us at breakfast and she stays and repeats English after
+us. She knows a lot of English, but it is so literary that it is quite
+amusing to turn her into the ways of ordinary talk. To get her to open
+her mouth and break the polite Japanese whisper, in which the Japanese
+women speak, is what I work most on. Yesterday we visited the Women's
+University which is within walking distance of this house. The
+President, Mr. Naruse, is dying of cancer. He is in bed but is able to
+talk quite naturally. He has made a farewell address to his students,
+has said good-bye to his faculty in a speech, and has named the dean,
+who is acting in his place now, as his successor. At this University
+they teach flower arrangement, long sword, and Japanese etiquette, and
+the chief warden is a fine woman. She says I may come in as much as I
+like to see those different things.
+
+In the afternoon we had callers again, among them two women. Women are
+rare. One, a Dr. R----, is an osteopath who has practiced here for
+fifteen years and is an old friend of our host's. The second, Miss
+T----, has just returned from seven years in our country. I heard much
+of her at Stanford and brought letters to her. She has a chair in the
+Women's University. It is a chair of Sociology, but she says the
+authorities are afraid the time has not yet come for her to start on
+sociology, so she will begin with the teaching of English and work into
+sociology by the process of ingratiating it into her classes. She is an
+interesting personality. She was sent to me to say I might be lonely
+because your father was away so she was to take me, with any other
+friends I wanted, to the theater. As we had already been to the Imperial
+Theater and sat in the Baron's box it was finally arranged to go to the
+Kabuki, where we sit on the floor and see real old Japanese acting,
+which I am very anxious to do. I understand it begins at 11 in the
+morning and lasts until ten at night.
+
+
+
+
+February 22.
+
+
+Yesterday we went to the theater, beginning at one and ending about
+nine; tea is constantly in the box, and little meals--and a big
+one--between the acts. We liked the old Japanese theater better than the
+more or less modernized one. Baron Shibusawa presented us with a box--or
+rather two of them--and his niece and another relative and the two young
+people from the house went. I won't try to describe the dramas, except
+to say that the way to study Japanese history and tradition would be to
+go to the theater with some one to interpret, and that while the theater
+is as plain as a medieval European one, the dresses are even more
+elaborate and costly. The stage is a beautiful spectacle when there are
+forty old Samurai on it, as the garments are genuine, not tinsel. Mamma
+went more than I, because I had to leave at half-past four to go to the
+Concordia Society--in fact, I hadn't expected to go at all at first, as
+the Baron said that he sent the offer of the box because he feared Mamma
+might be lonely when I was away! There were about twenty-five Japanese
+and Americans at the meeting and after I had spoken for half an hour we
+had dinner in an adjoining restaurant, and then sat around and visited
+for an hour or so.
+
+The great event of the week, aside from the theater yesterday, was
+visiting the Women's University--you mightn't think that a great treat,
+but you don't know what we saw. We started early to walk, since it isn't
+far and we had been shown the way once, but we were rubbering so busily
+at the shops that we failed to notice where we were till we got to the
+end of things and then had to turn around and walk back, so we got there
+late. The forenoon we spent in the elementary classes and kindergarten,
+which are their practice school. Those very bright kimonos for children
+you see are real--all the children wear them, as bright as can be,
+generally reds, and then some. So the rooms where the little children
+were are like gardens of flowers with bright birds in them--gay as can
+be. The work was all interesting, but the colored crayon drawings
+particularly. They have a great deal of freedom there, and instead of
+the children imitating and showing no individuality--which seems to be
+the proper thing to say--I never saw so much variety and so little
+similarity in drawings and other hand work, to say nothing of its
+quality being much better than the average of ours. The children were
+under no visible discipline, but were good as well as happy; they paid
+no attention to visitors, which I think is ultramodern, as I expected to
+see them all rise and bow. If you will think of doing all the regular
+school work--including in this school a good deal of hand work, drawing,
+etc.--and then learning by the end of the sixth grade a thousand or more
+Chinese characters, to make as well as to read, you will have some idea
+of how industrious the kids have to be, and of course they have to learn
+Japanese characters, too. Then we had a luncheon, ten of us altogether,
+cooked and served by the girls in the Domestic Department; some
+luncheon!--and garnished in a way to beat the Ritz--European food and
+service. Then the real show began. First we had flower arrangement,
+ancient and modern styles, then examples of the ancient etiquette in
+serving tea and cakes to guests, and then of inferiors calling on
+superiors; then Koto playing--a thirteen-stringed harp that lies on the
+floor--first two girls and the teacher, and then a solo by the teacher.
+He is blind and said to be the best player in Japan; he gave "Cotton
+Bleaching in the Brook," and said he rarely played it, only once a year.
+Well, you could hear the water ripple and fall, and hit the stones, and
+the women singing and beating the cotton. I could hear it better than I
+can hear spring in our music, so I think perhaps my ears are made to fit
+the Japanese scale, or lack of it. Then we were taken into the tea house
+and shown the tea ceremony, being served with tea. Mamma sat tatami, on
+her heels, but I basely took a chair. Then we went to the gymnasium and
+saw the old Samurai women's sword and spear exercises, etc. The teacher
+was an old woman of seventy-five and as lithe and nimble as a cat--more
+graceful than any of the girls. I have an enormous respect now for the
+old etiquette and ceremonies regarded as physical culture. Every
+movement has to be made perfectly, and it cannot be done without
+conscious control. The modernized gym exercises by the children were
+simply pitiful compared with all these ceremonies. Then we were taken to
+the dormitories, which are in a garden, simple wooden Japanese
+buildings, like barns our girls would think, but everything so clean you
+could eat on the floor anywhere, with the south side all glass and sun,
+and the girls sitting on the floor to study on a table about a foot and
+a half high; no beds or chairs to litter up the rooms. Then after we
+were taken over some of the other rooms, we went back to the dining-room
+and had a most exquisite Japanese vegetarian Buddhist lunch served--just
+a sample, all on a little plate, but including the sweets for dessert,
+five or six things all quite different and elegantly cooked. Also three
+kinds of tea.
+
+Politeness is so universal here that when we get back we shall either be
+so civil that you won't know us, or else we shall be so irritated that
+nobody is sufficiently civil that you won't know us either. Mr. X----
+took me in his car and brought me back. When we got to the hall there
+were five maids bowing and smiling to get our slippers and hang up our
+coats and hats. Just going in or out is like going to a picnic; I think
+the maids enjoy this change in their regular work, for they really
+smile, as if they were having the time of their lives. If it is
+perfunctory and put on, they have me fooled.
+
+Well, I'll spare you all any philosophical reflections this trip.
+Besides, I've been too busy having a good time to think of any. They
+will probably grow spontaneously in China. I forgot whether I told you
+in my last letter that the Minister of the Interior has given me a
+monthly and renewable pass first class on the Japanese railways. A
+friend here asked him for one for Mamma, too, but he said he was very
+sorry, that privilege could not be extended to a woman. So I'm the only
+grafter in the family. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but shall
+make one at the first opportunity in order to get the sensation.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Friday, February 28.
+
+
+I don't get much sightseeing done except in the way of seeing street
+sights. I am generally accompanied when I take a walk for exercise and
+always taken by some new way. The other evening we went out after dinner
+and took a walk to a lively street not far off--booksellers with their
+things spread out on the sidewalk or rather road, little lunch wagons,
+crowded streets and shops--they have electricity everywhere, and some
+geisha girls trotting along with maids to carry their samisens. We went
+into a Japanese movie beside rubbering at everything and then went into
+a Japanese restaurant. Their eating places here are specialized--this
+was a noodle shop, and we tried three kinds, one wheat in a soup, one
+buckwheat with fried shrimps, and another cold with seaweed. For the
+entire lot for the two of us it cost 27 cents American money, and the
+place, which was an ordinary one, was cleaner than any American one,
+even the best. The movie story seemed more complicated than any of ours,
+and was certainly slower, because there is a man and a woman in a little
+coop near the curtain who say what the actors are saying whenever their
+lips move, this gives a chance of course for more talk. There were a few
+knockouts and a murder and a villain and a persecuted damsel, and an
+attempted suicide to provide thrills, but I couldn't make out what it
+was about even with the aid of the guide with me. Such are simple
+pleasures here, save that when we walk in the daytime we generally go to
+a temple where on the whole the people are more interesting than the
+temples, though sometimes the layout of trees is beautiful and gives
+much the same effect of religious calm as a cathedral. In general the
+similarity between worship here and the country Italian Catholicism is
+more striking than anything else. They are slightly more naive here--to
+see the dolls, woolly dogs, and pinwheels at the shrines of the
+children's gods, besides their straw slippers, straw sandals and an
+occasional child's kimono is quite touching, also sometimes a mother has
+cut off her hair and pinned it up as an offering. Other things are as
+humorous as these are pathetic, such as making spitballs of written
+prayers and pasting the god with them. Some of the gods are now
+protected by wire netting on this account. I have got fairly well used
+to the street scenes now and can tell most of the kinds of shops, such
+as an undertaker's from a cooper's. What makes the street so interesting
+is that you can look in and see everything going on. I forgot to mention
+the most interesting street thing I've seen, a bird catcher with a long
+limed pole like a bamboo fishing rod, a basket with a valve door to put
+them in and some other utensils. I didn't see him catch any, though.
+
+
+
+
+Sunday Morning, March 2.
+
+
+I am writing early because we are going to-day to Kamakura. You have
+probably heard of the big bronze Buddha--fifty feet high--well, that is
+there. A friend has arranged an interview for us with the most
+distinguished or most learned of the Buddhist priests in Japan--who
+belongs to the most philosophical of all the sects, the Zen, which
+believes in the simple life and is more or less Stoical; this is the
+sect that had the greatest influence on the warrior class in the good
+old days. Kamakura is on the other side of Yokohama, an old Shogun
+capital; has lots of historic shrines, etc.
+
+Yesterday I made my first speech with an interpreter to a teachers'
+association, some five hundred in all, mostly elementary school teachers
+conspicuous for the fact that only about twenty-five were women. In the
+evening we went to a supper and reception of the English-Speaking
+Society, Americans and Japanese, mostly the latter; both men and women
+and the most generally sociable thing we have seen yet. We have heard
+said it was the only place in Tokyo where Japanese men and women really
+met in a free sociable way, and the president said that when Japanese
+met for sociable purposes they were reserved and stiff--at least till
+the wine went round--as long as they spoke Japanese, but speaking
+English brought back the habits they got in America and thawed them
+out--an interesting psychological observation on the effect of language.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4.
+
+
+You would be surprised to see how free from all affectations this
+country has remained, at least so far as we see it. There is a social
+democracy here that we do not know. All Japan is talking democracy now,
+which is to be taken in the sense of representative government rather
+than in the sense of tearing down the present form of government. The
+representation in elections here now does not seem to extend much
+further, if any, than to include those large taxpayers who would under
+any system be a force in forming policy. The extension of the suffrage
+is the great question under discussion at present. That and the
+expansion of special education for men are the turning points for the
+coming legislators. Japan has acquired many new millionaires during the
+war and those men are already founding new schools for vocational
+purposes for men. Four hundred and forty students are to be sent abroad
+with a very generous allowance for living in the different foreign
+countries, none of them women, and no women are mentioned in any of the
+new appropriation bills. Not even a mention of the needs for women.
+
+Yesterday, to begin, was spent thus: It was the famous festival of
+dolls. In the morning I made a dress for a poor sort of foreign doll I
+had hunted out for a little girl. It was all American. Another
+ridiculous imitation of American baby, looking half caste Japanese, has
+still to be dressed when I can find the material for long clothes, but I
+presented it as is. They invited me in to see their exhibition. Some of
+their dolls are two hundred years old from their mothers' family. I
+shall try to find some literature on this festival as it is too long to
+write about. But it is true that one begins immediately to get the
+passion for dolls; they are not dead things like ours, but works of art
+symbolic of all the different phases of national life. The little girls
+were delighted with their possessions. If I had only known about this I
+should have known what to bring to Japan for gifts, instead of feeling
+as helpless as I did. If you come, bring dolls.
+
+In the afternoon I was invited to go to the best or one of the best
+collections in the country and that was a great experience. It began
+very painfully for me because I got lost and was three-quarters of an
+hour late at the Imperial Hotel from which we started. The family that
+owns this famous collection is very old and the wife is the daughter of
+a Daimyo, hence the dolls are very old. And they are wonderful, and more
+wonderful still their housekeeping equipment of old lacquer and
+porcelain and glass. The doll refreshments are served in tiny dishes on
+tiny tables while the guests sit on the floor, the hostess and her
+family doing all the serving. We had the thick white wine made from rice
+poured out of wonderful little decanters into tiny glasses. We drank to
+the health of the family and the stuff is delicious, with an aroma such
+as no honey can excel. After these refreshments we were shown the room
+for the tea ceremony and then taken back into the foreign part of the
+house for real refreshments, which consisted of many and wonderful
+varieties of cakes. The tea was served in cups with saucers decorated
+with plum blossoms, this being the time of plum blossoms. Then tea cups
+taken away and cups of rich chocolate placed on the tables. These tables
+were high enough for the ordinary chairs. All the foreign houses are
+very ugly in style but very comfortable and mid-Victorian. The Baroness
+urged us to eat special cakes and we left stuffed. One kind is in the
+form of a beautiful pink leaf wrapped in a cherry leaf which has been
+preserved from last year. The leaf gives the cake a delicious flavor and
+also a cover to protect the fingers from its stickiness. Then three
+little round brown cakes looking some like chocolate--on a skewer. You
+bite off the first one whole, then slip the other two as you eat them.
+Those alone are enough for a meal and very nourishing. All cakes are
+made from bean paste or like our richest pastries. When that second meal
+was finished, we said good-bye. The Baroness and her three pretty
+daughters and her sister all followed us to the outer door and when our
+auto drove off the last thing we saw were the bows of the butlers and
+these pretty ladies, all saying one more harmonious good-bye. The young
+girls dress in kimonos of wool muslin of the brightest colors and
+designs which are conceivable even to the Japanese imagination. They
+look like a very profusely blooming garden of old fashioned perennials.
+
+The garden is indescribable. I had some fancy of what a Japanese garden
+would look like, but find it is nothing at all beside the reality. This
+place is big and the grass is now brown. Most of the grass is covered
+with a thick carpet of pine needles and at the edge of the pine needle
+carpet a rope of twisted straw outlines graceful curves. The use of the
+big stones is the most surprising part of the whole. They are very old
+and weather-stained, of many shades of gray and blue-gray, with the
+short shrubs for a background, and the severity and simplicity of the
+result has a classic beauty which we may attain in centuries, and only
+after we have consumed our abundance of things material.
+
+Then we went to dinner at the house of Professor M----. There are six
+children in his family, the oldest a man of about twenty-five, a
+graduate of the Imperial University, now a factory inspector for the
+government; he speaks eight languages. One of these is Esperanto, which
+is his hobby. The French Professors were there also, two of them, a
+clever and amusing pair, who did their duty in talking, and the young
+man spoke better than any of us and with an excellent pronunciation. He
+has never been out of Japan. Two little girls and a young boy appeared
+after dinner and made their pretty bows to the floor, and then went to a
+low table and squatted and played Go the rest of the evening. Go is the
+famous shell game. Go means five and it is a game of fives, but ask me
+no more, except that the men are 364 in number and you play it on an
+expanded checker board. There was an endless succession of food and
+drinks and we did not leave till nearly eleven. Japanese families have
+many nice drinks which we do not. Theirs are perhaps no better than our
+best ones, but they add to the pleasant variety of non-alcoholic drinks.
+Besides those we had two wines.
+
+This was the dinner as near as I can remember. A menu card was at each
+plate and I fancy they were intended as souvenirs for the foreign
+guests, but I forgot to take mine, if that was their purpose. We had
+soup, bread of two kinds, and butter. Then fish patties, then little
+birds, boned, on toast with a vegetable, then ramekins of Japanese
+macaroni, which is not like ours. Next roast beef, very tender fillet,
+with potato balls, peas, gravy, another vegetable forgot, and salad,
+white and red wine, coming after the orange cider. Then a delicious
+pudding, then cake and strawberries. Those berries are raised out of
+doors. They are planted between rows of stones which are heated
+artificially, I did not quite understand how, the vines being kept from
+touching the stones by low bamboo trellises. Whipped cream served with
+the berries. Then delicious coffee in foreign style.
+
+After dinner we leave the reception room in foreign style and go
+upstairs to the big Japanese room, sit by the hibashi or the grate, and
+here the children come. At once tea is served. Then just as we were
+starting for home we were urged to stay for a drink, which was more
+orange cider, very sweet, and bottled waters, which are so good and come
+from the many natural springs. One of the amusements of the Japanese is
+seeing the foreign visitors try to sit, and you can't wonder they are
+amused. I can manage it, in awkward fashion, but your father can't even
+bend for the pose. On Sunday we sat for two hours in the presence of the
+greatest Buddhist priest in Japan, and you can guess whether we wriggled
+and if my feet were asleep if you try the pose for a few minutes
+yourself, even on a nice soft cushion as we were. Getting up properly is
+the hardest part of it.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4.
+
+
+Our friends took us to Kamakura; it isn't interesting reading these
+things in advance in guide books, so I don't think a description will be
+interesting, but something over seven hundred years ago, the first
+Shogun rulers settled there and made it their capital, of which nothing
+is now left save the Buddhist temples. We met on the train going down
+the professor of Japanese literature in the University, who was going
+there because it was the seventh hundred anniversary of a Shogun who
+wrote poetry, and the professor was going over to lecture on his poems.
+Also we ran across several hundred school children, boys and girls with
+their teachers, who were spending Sunday seeing the historic sights. One
+of the big temples to the god of war was a kind of museum, with old
+swords and masks and things in it. They took us to call on the Reverend
+Shaku, who is the head of the Zen sect of Buddhists in Japan, and who
+talked--including the interpreter--about two hours, in answer to
+questions about Buddhism, especially his variety. It was very
+interesting. We were ushered into a Japanese room, beautiful
+proportions, a lovely kakemono in the alcove--it's a scroll, not a
+kimono--and a five-legged little table made of metal with
+mother-of-pearl inlay. Otherwise nothing but the room with gorgeous blue
+and gold chrysanthemums alternating on the paneled ceiling and five silk
+cushions scattered around for us to sit on, and a single one at the end
+of the room for him. In about five minutes another screen door opened
+and he appeared in a gorgeous but simple flowing robe, copper colored.
+Then tea and sponge cake--meantime the talk fest had begun. Incidentally
+I should remark that the bowing and kneeling of the servants looks much
+more natural and less servile when you see people seated on the floor,
+and the servants have to kneel to hand them anything. His personality is
+that of a scholarly type, rather ascetic, not over refined, but not in
+the least sleek like some of our Hindu swamis, and very charming. When
+we left he thanked us for coming and expressed his great satisfaction
+that he had made some friends. His talk was largely moral but with a
+high metaphysical flavor, somewhat elusive, and reminding one of Royce.
+Well it was an experience worth having, as he is reputed the most
+learned and representative Buddhist in Japan, and as I have remarked
+before, seeing is quite different from reading. He was more modern than
+Royce in one respect; he said God is the moral ideal in man and as man
+develops the divine principle does also. We saw the big fifty-foot
+bronze statue of Buddha, in some respects the most celebrated single
+thing in Japan and again one you have to see. It is as impressive as a
+cathedral.
+
+We have been to a dinner party since I began this. Our host seems to be
+a universal genius--a member of the house of peers, an authority on
+education, an orchid fancier, a painter and I don't know what. There
+were over twenty at table, and our health was drunk in champagne with a
+little speech, and two members of the cabinet were there. The Countess
+is the mother of eight children, and looks about thirty and very pretty
+for thirty. Three or four of the little girls were about before and
+after dinner, and, like several of the little girls of the new
+generation, are as spontaneous and natural as you would wish. Acquired
+characteristics are certainly hereditary in Japan, for even the most
+lively and spontaneous children are civilized. Whatever else you think
+about the Japanese they are about the most highly civilized people on
+earth, perhaps overcultivated. I asked Mamma when these girls would
+undergo the clammifying process and have all their life taken out of
+them, and she said never for these girls.
+
+President Naruse died this morning; as he had cancer, it was fortunate
+he did not linger longer. He was one of the most remarkable men in
+Japan. Two days before he died the Empress sent him a present of five
+thousand dollars for his school--a very great tribute and one which will
+help the cause of woman's education. Speaking of this family where we
+dined, you can judge of the high aristocracy of our hosts of the evening
+by the fact that when they showed us the dolls' festival, there were
+some fine ones which had been sent the Countess by the Imperial
+Princesses. The dolls by the way are never played with--they are works
+of art and history to look at. These children got out their American
+dolls, of which they had ten, to show Mamma.
+
+
+
+
+March 5.
+
+
+I have now given three lectures. They are a patient race; there is still
+a good-sized audience, probably five hundred. We are gradually getting a
+superficial acquaintance with a good many people, and if I could get two
+or three weeks free from lectures to prepare I could make a business of
+finding things out, but as it is I only accumulate certain impressions.
+There is no doubt a great change is going on; how permanent it will be
+depends a good deal upon how the rest of the world behaves. If it
+doesn't live up to its peaceful and democratic professions, the
+conservative bureaucrats and militarists, who of course are still very
+strong, will say we told you so and there will be a backset. But if
+other countries, and especially our own, behave decently, the
+democratizing here will go on as steadily and as rapidly as is
+desirable.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Monday, March 10.
+
+
+Yesterday we had our first taste of the Noh drama. We got there before
+nine in the morning, and I left before two to go to Mr. Naruse's
+funeral, but Mamma stayed till nearly three when she had to go to speak
+at a school. Mamma can give you a much more intelligent idea of it than
+I can, but the building is a kind of barnlike structure--the Elizabethan
+theater with a vengeance, and no stage properties except some little
+live pines and a big painted one, and except costumes which are rich and
+expensive and the masks which are likewise. It is an acquired taste, but
+one which can be acquired very rapidly. If they weren't done with such
+extraordinary art and technique they would probably be stupid, to a
+foreigner anyway, but as it is they are fascinating, though it is hard
+to say what the source of the fascination is aside from the perfection
+of technique. Conscious control was certainly born and bred in Japan.
+
+Mr. Naruse had a very strong hold on people, and his funeral was an
+event--all the autos and most of the 'rickshas in Tokyo must have been
+there, and some eight or ten speakers, and even to me who could
+understand nothing it was very impressive. One of the civilized things
+is that before the speaker bowed to the audience--and they all bowed
+back--he bowed to the remains, Which were in a coffin on the platform
+with flowers, and more flowers than at an American funeral.
+
+We were to have gone to Baron Shibusawa's for tea and dinner this
+afternoon, but his influenza has gone into pneumonia.
+
+To go back to Saturday. The reception was pleasant. We met the Americans
+who are educators and in the missionary schools and colleges;
+intelligent and well disposed, so far as I have seen. The criticism of
+the missionaries seems to be rather cooked up. Just now there is a fuss
+over them in Korea, because there is some agitation going on there for
+independence, and it seems to have started with Koreans who had been in
+missionary schools. The missionaries here seem much divided, some of
+them blaming the missionaries over there, saying they will bring
+Christianity into disrepute everywhere in Japan, and some saying that it
+proves Christian teaching amounts to something and that it will have a
+good effect in improving conditions, leading to foreign criticism and
+publicity, and causing the Japanese to modify their colonial policy,
+which seems to be under military rather than civil control. There is a
+rumor that the ex-Emperor of Korea didn't die a natural death, but
+committed suicide, with the hope of putting off or preventing the
+marriage of his oldest son to a Japanese princess--they were to have
+been married very soon. No one seems to know whether the story was
+invented to encourage the revolutionaries in Korea or has truth in it.
+Meanwhile they say the wedding is going to take place, and the Japanese
+are sorry for their poor princess, who is sacrificed to marry a
+foreigner.
+
+Thursday evening Mamma invited the X----'s and some others, eight
+including ourselves, to supper in a Japanese restaurant, a beef
+restaurant--they are all specialized--where we not only sat on the floor
+and ate with chop sticks, but where the little slices of thin beefsteak
+were brought in raw with vegetables to flavor, and cooked over a little
+pan on a charcoal hibashi, one fire to each two persons. Naturally it
+was lots of fun, a kind of inside picnic.
+
+Oh, yes, something happened Friday. We went to the Imperial Museum in
+the morning and the curator showed us about--I won't describe a
+museum--but on the way home we were taken into a pipe store and Mamma
+purchased three little Japanese pipes, ladies' pipes, to take home.
+Quite cunning, and the dealer said this was the first time he had ever
+sold anything to a foreigner, so he presented her with a little ladies'
+pouch and a pipe holder, both made from Holland cloth, not anything very
+precious, but probably worth as much as her entire purchase, certainly
+more than the profit on his sales. These things are quite touching and
+an offset to the stories about their bad business methods, because it is
+really a matter of hospitable courtesy to the foreigner, though he said
+himself they generally put the price up for the foreigner on antiques.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Thursday, March 14.
+
+
+We have just had a mild picnic. Mamma has a slight cold, so the maids
+brought her supper up to her and for sociability brought mine up too.
+Mamma got out a Japanese phrase book and pronounced various phrases to
+them; to see them giggle and bend double, no theater was ever so funny.
+When I got to my last bite, I inquired the name of the food, and said it
+and "Sayonara"--good night. This old gag was a triumph of humor. They
+are certainly a good-natured people. I have watched the children come
+out from a public school near here, and never yet have I seen a case of
+bullying or even of teasing, except of a very good-natured kind, no
+quarreling and next to no disputing. Yet they are sturdy little things
+and no mollycoddles. To see a boy of ten or twelve playing tag and
+jumping ditches with a boy strapped to his back is a sight. There are no
+public rebukes or scoldings of the children or even cross words, to say
+nothing of slappings, no nagging, at least not in public. Some would say
+that the children are not scolded because they are good, but it is a
+fair guess that it is the other way. But it must be admitted that so far
+as amiable exterior and cheerfulness and courtesy is concerned, they
+have no bad examples set them. Some foreigners say all this is only skin
+deep, but the manners of the foreigners who say these things aren't any
+too good even from our standards. Anyway, skin deep is better than
+nothing and good as far as it goes. However, the Japanese say that their
+courtesy is reserved for their friends and people they know, not that
+they have bad manners to strangers, but that they pay no attention to
+them, and won't go out of their way to do anything for them.
+
+I told about the man who made Mamma a present when she bought the pipes.
+Yesterday we were in that region and Mamma went in again and bought
+another, and paid him a compliment on what people said about the
+present. Whereupon he gets up and fishes out another more valuable
+pouch, somewhat ragged and old, the kind the actors now use on the
+stage, and offers it. Mamma naturally tries to avoid it, but can't. He
+informs her through the friend with us that he likes Americans very
+much. An international matter having been made of it, the pouch is
+accepted, and now we have to think up some present to give him. However,
+we have told this story to several Americans here, and they say they
+have never heard anything like it.
+
+We were to have gone to the Peeress's School this morning, an
+appointment having been made to show us about. Mamma's cold preventing
+her going, we had somebody 'phone to see if the time could be changed.
+And this afternoon appear for her some lovely lilies and
+amaryllis--these being from people we had never seen. A Freudian would
+readily infer how bad my own manners are from the amount I talk about
+this.
+
+We went to a Japanese restaurant for supper. This was a fish restaurant,
+and we cooked the fish and vegetables ourselves, but over gas, not
+charcoal this time. Then we had side dishes, fish, lobster, etc.,
+innumerable. Instead of bringing you in a bill of fare to order from,
+the coolie brings a big tray with samples of everything on it, and you
+help yourself. One thing was abalones on the half shell, these being
+babies, about like our clams, but not so tough, to say nothing of as
+tough as the big ones. I didn't try the fried devil fish and other
+luxuries, but wandered pretty far afield. When you have leisure, try
+eating lobster in the shell with chop sticks. You will resort to
+something more ancient than chop sticks, as I did. This restaurant is
+quite plebeian, though it has a great reputation for its secret recipe
+for the sauce the fish is cooked in, but it was considerably more
+expensive than the other--probably because we sampled so many side
+dishes; the other one cost less than five dollars for eight people--good
+food and all anybody could eat.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, March 14th.
+
+
+The ceremony of breakfast is over, and I am sorry again you cannot all
+share in these daily festivals which add so much to the dignity of
+living. We are now studying Japanese with the aid of the maids. I missed
+going to the Dolls' Festival at a private kindergarten and the
+result--this morning by mail a postcard from the children with numerous
+presents made by them, all dolls, and those I will send home, as they
+are interesting. With the presents they say: "We made cakes and prepared
+for your coming and we were in the depths of despair when you did not
+come. Please come another time." I am sure there is no other country in
+the world like this. The language is an impossible one. The way given in
+the phrases of the guide book is the way the man speaks. So when I
+stammer off those phrases the girls are literally tickled to death. When
+they tell me what I ought to say in the more elaborated polite way of
+the women, then I am floored. It is all an amusing game and relieves the
+watch they keep on each bite we take so as to be ready to supply more.
+Everything they do is marked with the kindliest attitude and every act
+or move is one of friendship.
+
+This is the program for to-day: Go to lunch at the house of some
+missionaries, then to father's lecture at 3:30, then to dinner for
+University of Chicago students. To-morrow will be an open day for me and
+the little secretary will take me shopping. The big department store is
+the fashionable place where all the noble and rich buy their kimonos,
+and I may supplement my secondhand attempts with a new one. When I get
+to Kyoto I hope to find a real old one, as the new style of weave are
+infected with foreign influence. The other evening with Y---- we found a
+little shop for antiques which is a gem to look at. An old man and his
+wife, Y---- says he bets they are Samurai, with the politeness of real
+nobles, and their little place as carefully arranged for beauty as if it
+were their home--which it is. I broke an old Kutani plate and I inquired
+for one there. They had none, but we looked at their things, they with
+many bows, and when we left said we were sorry to have troubled them for
+nothing. They replied, "Please excuse us for not having the thing you
+wanted."
+
+To-morrow we go to lunch here in the neighborhood with a very clever and
+interesting family (of a professor). None of the women call, at least
+none of the married ones, all being afraid of their English for one
+reason, but I am learning to just take things as they come and not to
+bother over formalities, never knowing whether that is the best way or
+not. The wedding of last Tuesday was the most interesting function I
+have seen. The marriage ceremony was the Christian one. The company
+represented the rich and fashionable of the city. The ladies all wear
+black crepe kimonos, that splendid crepe which is so heavy, next under
+the black is an all white of soft china silk, then the third of bright
+color. K----'s was that bright vermilion red. Her sleeves were not very
+long, as she is a mother, but the young girls wear bright colored
+kimonos and long sleeves that almost touch the floor. The bride wears
+black, too. All these dress-up kimonos have decorations in color,
+sometimes embroidered and sometimes dyed on the lower points of the
+front. The bride's was spread out on the floor around her just like the
+old pictures, embroidered in heavy rose peonies, her undergarment and
+the lining of the black, in rose color. Her hair was done in the old
+conventional way shown in the prints with the long pins of light
+tortoise shell with bouquets of tiny flowers carved at the ends, which
+stuck out about three inches, making a crown over her head. The
+receiving party is as follows: First, father of groom; second, mother of
+bride; third, groom; fourth, bride; fifth, father of bride; sixth,
+mother of groom. The line is straight and the bride is perfectly
+arranged like an old print, she and the groom with their eyes cast down.
+As each person passes, they make bows all along the line at once, but
+they do not move hand or eyes or a fold of these perfect clothes. I
+forgot to say the men, unfortunately, wear European dress. Then we moved
+on to two large rooms, the men all seated and smoking in one, and the
+women in the other. Those who knew me were very kind. Countess H----
+introduced me to the bridesmaids; at least they would be the maids at
+home. They were the sisters and young relatives all dressed in the most
+brilliant kimonos and embroidered and decorated to the limit; they
+looked like all the parrots and peacocks and paradise and blue birds and
+every lovely color imaginable, while the uniform black of the guests,
+decorated with the pure white of their crests which stand out in such a
+group, formed the perfect background, free from all the messiness which
+is so apparent in a diversified gathering of all sorts of color and
+shape and materials in our land. At tea, which was very elaborate and
+taken sitting at the tables, the family of the two filled one table, a
+long one at the end of the room. The bride now wore a green kimono,
+equally brilliant; about two feet away from her sat the groom, both in
+the middle of the long table.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Thursday, March 20.
+
+
+We have had a number of social events this week. Tuesday evening General
+H----, who speaks no English but who came over on the _Shinyo_ with us,
+gave a party for us in the gardens of the Arsenal Grounds. We could not
+have entered the Arsenal Grounds in any other way. There were about
+twenty-five people there, mostly Christian Association people, and the
+clergyman of the Japanese church where I had spoken the night before. He
+is keen about introducing more democracy in Japan, and I spoke on the
+moral meaning of democracy. Well, the garden isn't a garden at all in
+our sense, but a park, and the finest in Tokyo outside of the Imperial
+ones. It is quite different from the miniature ones we know as Japanese
+gardens, being of fair size, with none of those cunning little
+imitations in it; big imitations there are in plenty, as it was a fad of
+the old landscapists, as you might know, to reproduce on a small scale
+celebrated scenes elsewhere. The old Daimyo, who built this one two
+hundred years ago, was a great admirer of the Chinese and reproduced
+several famous Chinese landscapes as well as one from Kyoto. The
+extraordinary thing is the amount of variety they get in a small space;
+they could reproduce the earth, including the Alps and a storm in the
+Irish Channel, if they had Central Park. Every detail counts; it is all
+so artistically figured out and every little rock has a meaning of its
+own so that a barbarian can only get a surface view. It would have to be
+studied like an artist's masterpiece to take it all in. The arsenal
+factory fumes have killed many of the old trees and much of the glory
+has departed.
+
+Probably Mamma has written you that she has one young woman, Japanese,
+coming on the ship with us under her care, to New York to study; and
+to-day another young lady called, and said she wanted to go back to
+America. About the young women going home with us, Y---- said we would
+have to be careful, as one time his mother was offered seventeen damsels
+to escort when she was going over, of whom she took three. You may not
+appreciate the fact that going to America to study means practically
+giving up marriage; they will be old maids and out of it by the time
+they return--also those who have been in America do not take kindly to
+having a marriage arranged for them. At a lecture I listened to
+yesterday, a Japanese woman, close to thirty, was pointed out to me as
+about to get married to an American architect here. There are
+exceptions, but this case is evidently a famous romance. The lecture was
+on Social Aspects of Shinto; Shinto is the official cult though not the
+established religion of Japan. Although nothing is said that wasn't
+scientifically a matter of course to be said--I mean supposing it was
+scientifically correct--one of the most interesting things was the
+caution that was taken to avoid publication of anything said. On one
+side the Imperial Government is theocratic, and this is the most
+sensitive side, so that historical criticism or analysis of old
+documents is not indulged in, the Ancestors being Gods or the Gods being
+Ancestors. One bureaucratic gentleman felt sure that the divine
+ancestors must have left traces of their own language somewhere, so he
+investigated the old shrines, and sure enough he found on some of the
+beams characters different from Chinese or Japanese. These he copied and
+showed for the original language--till some carpenters saw them and
+explained that they were the regular guild marks.
+
+
+
+
+KAMAKURA, Thursday, March 27.
+
+
+This weather beats Chicago for changeableness. Monday, at midnight, it
+was storming rain; when we got up the next day it was the brightest,
+warmest day we have had. We spent it sightseeing and went out without an
+overcoat. The magnolia trees are in full bloom. Yesterday and to-day are
+as raw March days as I ever saw anywhere; there would have been frost
+last night but for the wind. Tuberculosis is rife here and no wonder.
+
+Three of the University professors have called on me this morning. They
+wish to arrange in every detail for our movements when we leave here. I
+suppose I was asked twenty times how long we are to stay in Kamakura.
+When I said I didn't know, it depended on weather and other things, they
+said, "Oh, yes," and in five minutes asked the same question again.
+Whether they arrange everything in minute detail for themselves in
+advance or whether they think we are helpless foreigners I can't make
+out; some of both, I think. But they can't understand that we can't give
+an exact date for everything we are going to do till we go to China. At
+the same time I never knew anybody to change their own plans, especially
+socially, as much as they do.
+
+There is a great anti-American drive on now; seems to be largely
+confined to newspapers, but also stimulated artificially somewhat,
+presumably by the militaristic faction, which has lost more prestige in
+the last few months than in years, with a corresponding gain in liberal
+sentiment. They have consequently found it necessary to do something to
+come back. Criticism of the United States is the easiest way to arrest
+the spread of liberal sentiments and strengthen the arguments for a big
+militaristic party, like twisting the lion's tail with us. Discussion
+about race discrimination is very active and largely directed against
+the United States in spite of Australia and Canada, and also in spite of
+the fact that Chinese and Korean immigration here is practically
+forbidden, and they discriminate more against the Chinese than we do
+against them. But consistency is not the strong point of politics in any
+country. Excepting on the subject of race discrimination, foreigners in
+contact with Japanese do not find the anti-American feeling which is
+expressed in papers. If the Anglo-Japanese treaty of alliance should
+lapse because of the League of Nations or anything else, America will be
+held responsible, even if the British are the cause. Two years ago there
+was a similar anti-British drive here, and pretty hard bargains were
+driven with the British ally in all war matters. Now that Germany and
+Russia are out of it, England has no apparent reason for snuggling up
+much and the shoe is on the other foot. Which makes the attack on the
+U.S. all the more stupid, as they are internationally quite lonely, even
+if they tie up with France on account of similar Russian interests,
+financial and otherwise.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Wednesday, March 28.
+
+
+To-morrow we are going to Kamakura again; it is only an hour and a half
+from here. We are going to take a little trip into the mountain and
+hot-spring district also, but the cherry blossom season is much
+advanced, ten days earlier than usual, and we are afraid it will spring
+itself in our absence if we go far, so probably we shall be back here in
+a few days for about a week. Then we shall take a five-day trip on our
+way to Kyoto, going to the shrine at Ise. This is the oldest and most
+sacred Shinto shrine in Japan, which means that it is the central spot
+for imperial ancestor worship. Speaking of ancestors, you remember our
+references to the Count. The father of his first wife has recently been
+made a Baron. Parliament being over, the Count has left for the southern
+Island to inform the ancestors of his first wife, who are buried there,
+of the important item of family gossip. The oldest liberal statesman of
+aristocratic descent, who was quite intimate with the late Emperor,
+won't go to the annual meeting to celebrate the granting of the
+Constitution by the late Emperor because he is so disgusted that no more
+progress has been made in constitutionalism, and says he cannot meet his
+late master until he can report progress to him. Otherwise he would be
+ashamed to meet him as he feels responsible to the Emperor. This would
+not be any place for a spiritualist to earn his living. They are clear
+past mediums.
+
+We have chiefly been eating lately. I had two Japanese meals, a la chop
+sticks, yesterday and one to-day. Luncheon yesterday at a restaurant,
+where we had lots of things you never heard of, to say nothing of eating
+them, and a dinner at a friend's. There were twelve courses at table and
+two or three afterwards--not counting tea, and much the same at another
+dinner to-night. We have a bill of fare written on fans, only in
+Japanese, and little silver salt cellars as souvenirs besides. One
+feature of both dinners was soup three times, at the beginning, about
+the middle and again at closing, at these functions rice is not served
+till near the last course. Then there were one or two semi-soupy courses
+thrown in. I can eat raw fish and ask no questions; and in a bird
+restaurant, Sunday for luncheon, I ate raw chicken wrapped in seaweed;
+abalone is my middle name, and some of the shell fish we eat is probably
+devil fish.
+
+We have been here over six weeks now, and in taking an inventory it can
+be said that while we have not done as much sightseeing as some six-day
+tourists, I think we have seen more Japanese under normal home
+conditions than most Americans in six months, and have seen an unusually
+large number of people to talk to, not the official crowd but the
+representative intellectual liberals. I have seen less but found out
+more than I ever expected about Japanese conditions, which is quite the
+opposite of European experience in traveling. When I come back I shall
+try to see a few of the official people, since I now know enough to
+judge what they may say. On the whole, America ought to feel sorry for
+Japan, or at least sympathetic with it, and not afraid. When we have so
+many problems it seems absurd to say they have more, but they certainly
+have fewer resources, material and human, in dealing with theirs than we
+have, and they have still to take almost the first step in dealing with
+many of them. It is very unfortunate for them that they have become a
+first-class power so rapidly and with so little preparation in many
+ways; it is a terrible task for them to live up to their position and
+reputation and they may crack under the strain.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, Tuesday, April 1.
+
+
+The Japanese do one thing that we should do well to imitate. They teach
+the children in school a very nice lesson about the beauty and the
+responsibility of being polite and kind to the foreigner, like being so
+to the guests of your own house. This adds to the national dignity.
+
+Yesterday the Emperor got out and I caught him at it. Quite an amazing
+and lucky experience for me and no harm to him, as I had not known he
+ever went out before I picked him up in the street. I went down our hill
+as usual with a friend to take the car. At this side of the street where
+the car passes, we walk across the bridge on the canal and then turn and
+walk one block to the car stop. When we got to the other side of the
+bridge all the people on both sides of the street were massed in a nice
+little quiet line and three policemen were carefully and gently placing
+each one according to his height so he could see as well as possible. So
+we lined in with the rest while the policeman looked on in an
+encouraging fashion. Nobody spoke out loud, and after I had noticed the
+friend with me having a conversation with the officer, I ventured to ask
+why we were left standing there. With the same quiet, she said: "The
+Emperor is passing on his way to the commencement exercises of Waseda
+University." Well, you could have knocked me over with a feather. I
+don't suppose I should have known what was happening at all unless I
+could have figured it out from the Chrysanthemums on the carriage doors.
+I said to her: "How is he coming, in an automobile? How long are we to
+stand here?" I had visions of the stories about the streets being
+cleared, and the doors shut for some hours while white sand was
+sprinkled over the car tracks, and all the rest. "No," she said, "just a
+little time." I saw by now that I was not likely to have much gossip
+poured out to me about the Emperor, so I just fixed a nice little thing
+about three years old in front of me and then we waited with the rest of
+the school children. Soon the procession came, first a body of horse in
+plain khaki uniforms, then one very Japanese-looking man alone on the
+back seat in one of the light victorias, very clean and shiny, with the
+Chrysanthemums on the door. He was dressed in a khaki wool uniform just
+like the rest of the army with a cap on his head. Then came some other
+shiny, light little victorias with two horses, all just alike. I
+rubbered my best and I had a very good look at the one little man alone
+in the middle of the seat, and sitting up and looking straight ahead of
+him pleasantly. In the midst of the passing I asked the companion with
+me, "Which is the Emperor?" and she answered "The one in the first
+carriage," and still there was that quiet of perfect breeding; and by
+and by all the nice little soldiers on horseback passed, and after I had
+stood a little longer on the edge of my bridge I started our little
+procession moving towards the car. The Emperor had gone the opposite
+way. After a little I said: "I did not know the Emperor went to
+commencements and things like that," and I chattered on, and then my
+companion said in her slow, proper, calm tone: "That is my first
+experience to see the Emperor, too." And I said "Is that so?" and asked
+some more questions, still wondering that no one had called out a Banzai
+nor made a sound, and it is not till to-day that I learned that all the
+people were standing with their eyes cast down to the ground, and that I
+was the only one who looked at the Emperor, and their reverence was so
+great that that was the reason I had not heard them breathe. For another
+thing, Waseda is the liberal university and private, so I wondered still
+till I learned then that the Emperor was going to the Peers' School
+commencement, and that is the one commencement he goes to every year. So
+you see I had luck, and my conscience was clear for having rubbered, and
+I have seen the Emperor.
+
+The Imperial Garden party comes off the week after we leave Tokyo. To
+this party all the nobles of the third rank and above, and all the
+professors in the Imperial University, and all the foreigners of latest
+arrival, are asked. So a foreigner can go just once and no more unless a
+Professor. We put our names down in the Ambassador's book for an
+invitation before we knew all the niceties of the case. So now that we
+have learned that we can go once and no more, and that we are expected
+to go if we are invited, we will take back our request for an invitation
+as the party is on the 17th of April, and we are to be in Kyoto on the
+15th. So in our good luck, a daughter of a Baron, who is a member of the
+Imperial household, has asked us to go with her to-morrow to see the
+Imperial Garden where the party is to be and we may see the gardens all
+the better. This Imperial Garden is one of the prince's gardens and not
+the one behind the moat where the Emperor lives. It seems the fall
+chrysanthemum party is in that garden, though never inside the inner
+moat where no one goes unless he has an audience. The moat and the
+surroundings of the palace are lovely, but as you can read the guide
+book if you want a description, I will not bore you with an attempt. The
+walls of the moat were built by labor of the feudal dependencies, and
+like all such labor it spared no pains to be splendid. Some of the moats
+have been filled up long ago, but there are still three around the
+palace. Inside the outer one you may walk part of the time and see the
+grand gates with their solemn guards. In these gardens the air is fresh
+and the birds sing in the trees, and the dust of the city never gets
+there.
+
+To-night I am wearing tabi, those nice little toe socks which will not
+fit my feet, but which are so much nicer than the felt toe slippers that
+fall off your feet every time you go upstairs. As a matter of fact, I
+wear ordinary house slippers in this house, but it is nicer not to and
+we always take them off when we come in from outdoors. Truly, the
+Japanese are a cleaner people than we are. Have I told you we bathe in a
+Japanese tub? Every night a hot, very hot wooden box over three feet
+deep is filled for us. This one has water turned in from a faucet, but
+in Kamakura the little charcoal stove is in the end of the tub and the
+water is carried in by buckets, and is reheated each night. It seems all
+right and I regret all the years our country went without bath tubs, and
+all the fuss we made to get them when this little, simple device was all
+there and as old as the hills. But we can catch up with the heating and
+cooking with charcoal hibashi.
+
+We have learned to eat with chop sticks very well, and it is not a bad
+way. The main objection I see to it is that one eats too fast, and
+Fletcherizing is not known in this country. The nice little way of doing
+your own cooking is something to introduce for cuteness in New York.
+These last few days we have just been sightseeing in the real European
+sense, running about town and buying small things all day and then
+having the wonderful advantage of coming back to this delightful home of
+perfect comfort at night, which is quite unlike Europe, and spoils us
+for the common lot of knocking about.
+
+The greatest actor of the country is here. He belongs in Osaka, his name
+is Ganjiro, and we have a box for Thursday. The play is the one that was
+given in New York called "Bushido." It is much longer than as given
+there. It is called by another name and is acted quite differently. On
+Sunday we are going again to the Noh Dance, or if no good tickets are to
+be had for that, we are going to a theater where women act all the parts
+to offset the usual way here of having only men in the company. The men
+who act women's parts here do make up very well. They live and dress and
+act as women all the time so as not to lose the art. Only when they
+stand in pose they cannot conceal the fact that they are men. The play
+begins at one in the afternoon and lasts until ten at night. Tea and
+dinner is brought into your box in those nice little lacquer lunch
+boxes. Ganjiro is on the stage in every scene for eight hours, so you
+can see the actors work for their art here. The costumes are superb, but
+the actors do not simply strut to show off. Their speech being very
+affected in manner they have had to depend upon expression to get
+results, and as a consequence their acting is done with their entire
+body more than any other school in the world. The best ones, like the
+ones we are to see, can express any emotion, so 'tis said, with their
+backs and the calves of their legs when you can't see their faces.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, April 1.
+
+
+Our activities of late have been miscellaneous; we spent three days,
+counting coming and going four days, at Kamakura last week. It is on the
+seaside and is a great resort, summer and winter, for the Japanese, and
+at the hotel for Europeans over weekends. For summers the foreigners go
+to the mountains, while the Japanese take to the seaside, largely
+because there is more for the children to do on the seashore, but partly
+because mountains seem to be an acquired taste. Kamakura is about ten
+degrees warmer than Tokyo, as it is sheltered by the hills. Peas were in
+blossom and the cherry trees all out. It was cold and rainy while we
+were there, however, except one day, when we crowded in so much
+sightseeing we got rather tired. Mamma and I are now catching up on
+calls, prior to leaving and doing some sightseeing. To-day we went to a
+shop where they publish very fine reproductions of the old art of Japan,
+including Chinese paintings owned in Japan, much better worth buying
+than the color print reproductions to my mind, though we have laid in
+some reproductions of the latter. There are so many millionaires made by
+the war in Japan, that lots of the old lords are selling out part of
+their treasures now; prices I think are too high even for Americans. The
+old Daimyo families evidently have enough business sense to take
+advantage of the market, though some are hard up and sell more for that
+reason. A week ago we went to an auction room where there was a big
+collection of genuine old stuff, much finer than appears in the curio
+shops, and this weekend there is another big sale by a Marquis. However,
+it is said they keep the best things and unload on the nouveau riche;
+not but what a lot of it is mighty good as it is.
+
+My other experience that I have not written about is seeing Judo. The
+great Judo expert is president of a normal school, and he arranged a
+special exhibition by experts for my benefit, he explaining the theory
+of each part of it in advance. It took place Sunday morning in a big
+Judo hall, and there were lots of couples doing "free" work, too; they
+are too quick for my eye in that to see anything but persons suddenly
+thrown over somebody's back and flopped down on the ground. It is really
+an art. The Professor took the old practices and studied them, worked
+out their mechanical principles, and then devised a graded scientific
+set of exercises. The system is really not a lot of tricks, but is based
+on the elementary laws of mechanics, a study of the equilibrium of the
+human body, the ways in which it is disturbed, how to recover your own
+and take advantage of the shiftings of the center of gravity of the
+other person. The first thing that is taught is how to fall down without
+being hurt, that alone is worth the price of admission and ought to be
+taught in all our gyms. It isn't a good substitute for out-of-door
+games, but I think it is much better than most of our inside formal
+gymnastics. The mental element is much stronger. In short, I think a
+study ought to be made here from the standpoint of conscious control.
+Tell Mr. Alexander to get a book by Harrison--a compatriot of his--out
+of the library, called "The Fighting Spirit of Japan." It is a
+journalist's book, not meant to be deep, but is interesting and said to
+be reliable as far as it goes. I noticed at the Judo the small waists of
+all these people; they breathe always from the abdomen. Their biceps are
+not specially large, but their forearms are larger than any I have ever
+seen. I have yet to see a Japanese throw his head back when he rises. In
+the army they have an indirect method of getting deep breathing which
+really goes back to the Buddhist Zen teaching of the old Samurai.
+However, they have adopted a lot of the modern physical exercises from
+other armies.
+
+The gardens round here are full of cherry trees in blossom--and the
+streets are full of people too full of sake. The Japanese take their
+drunkenness apparently seasonly, as we hadn't seen drunken people till
+now.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, April 2.
+
+
+We have had another great day to-day. This morning rose early and wrote
+letters, which were not sent in spite of the haste, as we decided the
+slow boat was slower than waiting for a later and faster one. So you
+ought to get many letters at once. The day has been sunshiny and bright,
+but not at all sultry, so perfect for getting about. We went to the art
+store to get some prints which we had selected the day before and then
+on to call on a Professor of Political Economy, who is also a member of
+Parliament, radical and very wide awake and interesting, quite like an
+American in his energy and curiosity and interest. We visited and
+learned a lot about things here and there and then he took us to lunch
+at his mother-in-law's house. They have a beautiful house in Japanese
+style, with a foreign style addition, like most of the houses of the
+rich, the Japanese part having no resemblance whatever to the foreign,
+which is so much less beautiful. In carpets and table covers and
+tapestries imitated from the German, the Japanese have no taste, while
+in their own line they remain exquisite. This house is one of the most
+absolute cleanliness. No floor in it but shines like a mirror and has
+not a fleck of dust, never had one. Let me see if I can describe
+accurately this entertainment. We took three 'rickshas and rode through
+the cherry lined narrow streets over hills where are the lovely gardens
+of the rich showing through the gateways and showing over the top of the
+bamboo walls, which are built of poles about six feet long upright and
+tied together with cords. They are very pretty with the green. When we
+reached the house Mr. U---- took us in to the foreign drawing room,
+which is very mid-Victorian and German in its general effect. This one
+has in it a beautiful lacquer cabinet, very large and quite overpowering
+every other thing in the room. There the ladies of the house came in and
+made their bows, very amiable and smiling at our thanks for their
+hospitality. The sister-in-law, a young girl of sixteen, who wants to go
+to America, and afterwards the grandmother, very much the commanding
+character that a grandmother ought to be. The children hovered round
+them all much like our children. The ladies brought us tea with their
+own hands in lovely blue and white cups with little lacquer stands and
+covers. Candy with the tea, which was green. I forgot to say that we had
+already, during the hour with Mr. U---- had tea three different times
+and of three different kinds, besides little refreshments therewith.
+After a little we were summoned to lunch. Three places set on a low
+table and a beautiful blue brocade cushion to sit upon. The two younger
+ladies on their knees ready to serve us. They poured out wine for us, or
+Vermouth, and we took the latter. We had before us, each, one lacquer
+bowl, covered, that contained the usual fish soup with little pieces of
+fish and green things cut up in it. This we drink, putting the solid
+bits into our mouths with the chop sticks. The grandmother thought she
+ought to have prepared foreign food, but the clever girl of sixteen had
+spoken for home food, and so we thanked them for giving that to us, as
+we seldom get a real genuine Japanese meal. And this is the first we
+have had where we were served by the ladies of the house, except the
+dolls' food at the festival. It seems this is the highest compliment
+that we have had, as the real Japanese home is open to the foreigner
+only when the foreigner is asked to sit on the floor and is served by
+the ladies of the household. They kneel near the table and the maid
+brings the dishes and hands them to the ladies, who in turn serve the
+dishes to the guests. It is very pretty. I have reached the stage where
+I can sit on my heels for the length of a meal, but I rise very
+awkwardly, as my feet are asleep clear up to my knees at the end. We ate
+soup, cold fried lobster and shrimps, which are dipped in sauce besides;
+and cold vegetables in another bowl, and then hot fried fish; then some
+little pickles, then rice, of which the Japanese eat several bowls, then
+the dessert, which has been beside you all the time, and is a cold
+omelette, which tastes very good, and then they give you tea, Formosa
+oolong. We had toast, too, but that is foreign. Then we left the table
+and were shown the rooms upstairs, which contain many pieces of lacquer
+and bronze and woodwork, and then we went down and there was tea and a
+dish of fruit ready for us. We had not much time for this, as they were
+going to send us in a motor to the Imperial Gardens. But as the last
+kind of tea had to be brought we were at the door putting on our shoes
+when it arrived. This tea is strong oolong and has milk in it, with two
+lumps of sugar for you to put in yourself. Thus we had been served with
+tea six times within three hours.
+
+It is hard to describe the Imperial Gardens. Read the guide book and you
+will see that it is. Ten thousand orchid plants were the beginning of
+the sight. We saw the lettuce and the string beans and the tomatoes and
+potatoes and eggplant and melons, and all growing under glass, for the
+Emperor to eat. Never saw such perfect lettuce, all the heads in one
+frame of exactly the same size and arrangement, as if they were
+artificial, and all the others just right. Why potatoes under glass?
+Don't ask me. Grapes in pots looked as if the raising of grapes under
+glass was in its beginning, but maybe not, as I was not familiar enough
+with those little vines to know whether they would bear or not. The
+flowers in the frames were perfection. Masses of Mignonette daisies, and
+some other bright flowers I did not know were ready to put out in the
+beds which were prepared for the garden party. We cannot go on the 17th.
+A very large pavilion with shingle roof under which the Emperor and
+Empress are to sit at the party is being built and will be taken down
+the next day, or rather week, as it will take more than one day. Then if
+it rains there will be no party. To-night it looks as if rain might
+spoil the blossoms. But to-day was perfect. It is a little surprising
+when one sees this famous garden after reading about Japanese gardens
+for all one's life. There is such a large expanse of grass with no
+flowers and the grass does not get green here so soon as with us, and it
+is now all brown, though big masses of daffodils are superb. These under
+the cherry trees with the sunshine shining through slantways made one of
+the brilliant sights of a lifetime. The artificial lakes and rivers and
+waterfall and the bridges and islands and hills with big birds walking
+and swimming make enough to have come for to Japan. The groups of trees
+are as fine as anything can be and across the long expanses the view of
+them is like a succession of pictures. There are a hundred and
+sixty-five acres in the park, no buildings. In the beginning it was
+pretty well to one side of the city, but now it is on a car track of
+much travel, though still on the outskirts on its outer edge.
+
+On Monday we have arranged to go to the theater again at the Imperial.
+To-day it is the great actor Ganjiro at a small theater. It is said the
+jealousy of the Tokyo actors and managers keeps Ganjiro from getting a
+fair chance when he comes here. Mr. T----, formerly of Chicago, has just
+been here to try to arrange a dinner for us before we leave, the dinner
+to be at a restaurant with all the old students present. The restaurants
+are always amusing and we agreed, of course. This may keep us in Tokyo
+one day longer, though that is not decided yet. For the rest of the time
+we are to make up on calls as far as we can and ride about to see the
+cherry blossoms, and I hope we may see some of the famous tea houses.
+Thus far we have seen no tea house at all, and there is not one
+afternoon tea house where ladies go in this city excepting the
+new-fashioned department stores, and they do not stand for anything
+different than they do with us. This shows how little the real ladies of
+Tokyo go out of their houses.
+
+The Sumida river is a big river gathering up all the small streams from
+one side of the mountains. It is full of junks and other craft and is
+the center of much history, both for Tokyo as a city and for the whole
+country.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, April 4.
+
+
+Ganjiro, the greatest actor from Osaka, is acting here now, and the show
+was great. He did the scene among other things they did in New York
+under the name of "Bushido." A dance by a fox who had taken the form of
+a man was a wonderful thing. There is no use in trying to describe it.
+It was not just slow posturings, like the other Japanese dances we have
+seen, nor was it as wild as the Russian dancers; he did it alone, no
+companion, male or female. But it was as free as the Russian and much
+more classic at the same time. You will never realize what the human
+hand and arm can do until you see this. He put on a number of masks and
+then acted or danced according to the type of mask he had on. He can do
+an animal's motions without any clawing--as graceful and lithe as a cat.
+He is a son of an old man Ganjiro.
+
+Our last days here are rather crowded and we aren't going to get the
+things done that should be done. Cherry blossoms are at their
+height--another thing indescribable, but if dogwood trees were bigger
+and the blossoms were tinged with pink without being pink it would give
+the effect more than anything else I know. The indescribable part is the
+tree full of blossoms without leaves; of course you get that in the
+magnolias, but they are coarse where the cherry is delicate. We went to
+a museum to-day, which is finer in some respects than the Imperial; gods
+till you can't rest, and wonderful Chinese things, everything except
+paintings.
+
+
+
+
+TOKYO, April 8.
+
+
+We are actually packing up and get away to-morrow morning at 8:30--we
+travel all day, the first part till four o'clock on the fastest train in
+Japan. The ordinary trains make about fifteen miles an hour, Japan
+having unfortunately adopted narrow gauge in early days and going on the
+well-known principle of safety first. We have had various and sundry
+experiences since writing, the most interesting being on Sunday, when we
+were taken into the country both to see the cherry blossoms and the
+merry-makers; the time is a kind of a carnival and mild saturnalia based
+on bright clothes, and wigs, and sake, about ninety per cent sake.
+There were a few besides ourselves not intoxicated, but not many.
+Everybody practiced whatever English he knew on us, one dressed-up
+fellow informing us "I Chrallie Chaplin," and he was as good an
+imitation as most. Aside from one fight we saw no rudeness and not much
+boisterousness, the mental effect being apparently to make them
+confidential and demonstrative. Usually they are very reserved with one
+another, but Sunday it looked as if they were telling each other all
+their deepest secrets and life ambitions. Our host of the day laughed
+most benevolently all the time, not excluding when a fellow dressed in
+bright red woman's clothes insisted on riding on the running board. They
+get drunk so seldom that it didn't appeal to him so much as a drunk as
+it did as a popular festival; the people really were happy.
+
+There were miles of trees planted each side of a canal that supplies
+Tokyo with water, all kinds of trees and in all stages of development,
+from no blossoms to full, no leaf and beautiful little pink leaves. The
+blossoms are dropping, it is almost a mild snowfall, and yet the trees
+seem full.
+
+Yesterday we went to the theater again, the Imperial, a party of ten
+filling two boxes. We were taken behind the scenes and shown the green
+rooms, etc., and introduced to an actor and to his son, about eleven,
+who appeared on the stage later and did a very pretty dance. He had a
+teacher in the room and was doing his Chinese writing lesson, never
+looked up till he was spoken to, about the handsomest and most
+intelligent looking lad I have seen in Japan. Acting is practically an
+hereditary profession here. I doubt if an outsider not trained from
+early childhood could possibly do the acting anyway, and I don't think
+the guild would let him break in if he could, though one man of British
+extraction has been quite successful on the Japanese stage. We saw some
+very interesting things yesterday, including dances, and learned that
+they are very anxious to come to America, but they want a patron. If the
+scenes were selected with great care to take those that have lots of
+action and not so much talking, and the libretto was carefully
+explained, they could make a hit in New York at least.
+
+Our other blowout was the other evening at a Japanese classic tea house,
+a part of a Noh dance for entertainment and a twelve-course meal or so.
+The most interesting thing though is talking to people. On the whole I
+think we have a chance to see people who know Japan much better than
+most. We haven't been officialized and putting the different things
+together I think we have as good an acquaintance with the social
+conditions as anybody would be likely to get in eight weeks. An
+experienced journalist could get it, so far as information is concerned,
+in a few days, but I think things have to be soaked in by cumulative
+impressions to get the feel of the thing and the background. When they
+told me first that this was a great psychological moment, that
+everything was critical and crucial, I didn't know what they meant, and
+I could hardly put it in words now, any more than they did, but I know
+inside of me. There are few external signs of a change, but Japan is
+nearly in the condition she was in during the first years of contact and
+opening up of things fifty or so years ago, so far as the mental
+readiness for change is concerned, and the next few years may see rapid
+social changes.
+
+
+
+
+NARA, April 12.
+
+
+Well, we have started on our journey and have seen Japan for the first
+time, scenically speaking, that is to say. The first day's ride from
+Tokyo to Nagoya was interesting, but not particularly so except for
+Fuji, which we saw off and on for several hours, and on three sides. As
+sometimes it isn't visible, and we had a fine warm day, we had good
+luck. Nagoya is where the best old castle in Japan is, you may even in
+your benighted country and estate have heard of the two golden dolphins
+on top. The castle is an imperial palace and it turned out that you have
+to have a permit from Tokyo, but we set out to try to get in, and as we
+had met a nice young man at the X----'s in Tokyo who came from Nara, we
+telephoned him, and while we didn't get in through him (he said he could
+never get in himself under any circumstances) he promptly asked us to
+dinner. Then we were taken to the swellest tea house in Nara and had
+another of those elaborate dinners, on what he called the tea-istic
+plan. We began with the tea ceremony without the ceremony but with the
+powdered tea, the bowl being prepared for each one separately in
+succession. The Nara cooking is better, we all thought, than the Tokyo,
+the food being more savory and the variety of flavors greater, an
+opinion which pleased our host. Expressing some curiosity about some
+four-inch trout which seemed to have a sugar caramel coating, we found
+that they were cooked in a kind of liquor which deposited the sweetness,
+and then we were presented with a bottle of the drink known as Mirin, so
+now we are lugging glassware. Then after the dinner he said that he
+hoped that we would not think him guilty of improper action, but that he
+had invited the best samisen player and singer in Nagoya, and also some
+dancers. In other words, some geishas were introduced and sang, played
+and danced before King David. There are all grades from those comparable
+to chorus girls at Jack's to high grade actresses, and these were of the
+upper kind. He said he wished us to see something of true Japan which
+few foreigners saw, this referring to the restaurant as well as the
+dancing. They won't receive anybody who isn't an old client or friend of
+one of these high toned places. But the ladies of the party thought he
+was especially interested in one of the girls. Personally I think the
+dancing and music are much more interesting than they are reported to be
+in the guide books.
+
+The next day we went to the primitive Ise shrines, arriving cross and
+hungry at about two, but bound to get the pilgrimage over, especially as
+it wasn't good weather. Yamada, where the sacred shrines are, is a very
+beautiful place, with wooded hills and little streams. The trees are
+largely cryptomerias, which are evidently some relative of the
+California redwoods, and while not nearly as tall, make much the same
+effect. It is a darling spot, filled with the usual thousands of carpet
+bagger (literally the old Brussel carpet bags) pilgrims. As previously
+reported I toted a borrowed frock coat and stovepipe hat. Our guide said
+special clothing was not needed for the ladies. I put on my war paint,
+and the chief priest having been written from Tokyo of our impending
+arrival, an hour had been set. At the outermost gate, the Torii, the
+ceremony of purification, took place. We had water poured out on our
+hands out of a little ceremonial cup and basin and then the priest
+sprinkled salt on us; nobody else had this but us. Then when we got to
+the fence gate, we were told that the ladies not having "visiting
+dresses," whatever they are, couldn't go inside, but that I should be
+treated as of the same rank as an Imperial professor and allowed to go.
+I forgot to say that we had a gendarme in front of us to shoo the vulgar
+herd out of our way. Then we marched slowly in behind the priest, on
+stones brought from the seaside, through a picket fence to designated
+spots near the next fence, I being allowed nearer to the gate than our
+Japanese guide; and we worshiped, that is bowed. I got my bow over
+disgracefully quick, but I think our Japanese conductor stood at least
+fifteen minutes.
+
+
+
+
+KYOTO, April 15.
+
+
+Here we are in the Florence of Japan, and even more to see if possible
+than in Italy. We have had a rainy day to-day, which is perhaps a good
+beginning for a week of constant sightseeing. This morning we spent in
+Yamanaka's--the most beautiful shop I ever saw, composed of the finest
+Japanese rooms of the finest proportions and filled with the most
+beautiful art specimens of all kinds. But the kinds are properly
+assorted in true Japanese fashion. I bought a red brocade. It is a
+panel, old red with figures of gold and some dark blue, peonies and
+birds. It is what the Buddhist priests wear over the left arm in
+procession. We have the certificate that it is over a hundred years old.
+The panel is about five feet long and one wide, the strips which compose
+it are four in number, sewed in seams, which turn the corners in mortise
+fashion, and yet they all match perfectly. Most of these strips are
+woven in these ribbons and sewed together. I got a second one which is
+purple with splendid big birds and peonies again. I like the peony in
+brocade much better than the chrysanthemum or the smaller flowers. Some
+fine ones with pomegranates are tempting, but I did not buy the most
+beautiful on account of the prospects of spending money better in China.
+I also bought a pretty tea set which I have here in my room--it cost 30
+sen, which means fifteen cents for teapot and five cups, gray pottery
+with blue decorations. There are many cheaper ones that are pretty too.
+Tomorrow we go to the original temple where the tea ceremony originated
+and are to participate in the tea ceremony, which the high priest will
+perform for us. You better get a guide book and read about the temples
+of Kyoto, as they are too numerous to tell about in letters. We have the
+municipal car for all these occasions. Good thing we do, for Kyoto has
+shrunk like a nut in its shell since the days of its ancient capital
+size and the distances between temples are enormous. Next day we go to
+the Imperial Palaces, and so go on and on getting fatter and fatter.
+
+The weather and the spring time are superb. Cherry blossoms were gone
+when we got here, but the young leaves of the maples are lovely green or
+red and the whole earth is paradise now. The hills are nearer than in
+Florence, the mountains higher, so that Kyoto has every natural beauty.
+We shall only have a week here and then go to Osaka, where the puppet
+theater is and where there is a school of drama, of which Ganjiro is the
+leader. It is the doll theater we want to see, because that is the
+origin of all acting in Japan. Many of the conventions of the theater
+are based on the movements of the puppets.
+
+Kyoto in many respects is the most lovely thing the world has to show,
+such a combination of nature and art as one dreams of. These wonderful
+temples of enormous size, of natural wood filled with paintings and
+sculpture of an ancient and unknown kind, fascinate one to the point of
+feeling there must be many more worlds when such multiplicity of ideas
+and feelings can exist on a single planet, and we live unconscious of
+the whole of it or even of any part of its extent. The gardens we have
+seen to-day are the old Japan unchanged since they were made a thousand
+years ago, when they took the ancient ideas of China and India for
+models. The temples of Tokyo seem like shabby relics of a worn-out era,
+but here the perfection of their art remains and is kept intact. The
+landscape of the first Buddhist monastery, where the tea ceremony
+originated, has the same rivers and islands and little piles of sand
+which were placed in the beginning, all in miniature, and planted with
+miniature trees, all imitations of real scenes in China when China was
+the land of culture. Now they say even the originals are destroyed in
+China, which is so out of repair that it depresses every one who sees
+it. Fifty years ago they advertised for sale here in Nara, a lovely
+pagoda five stories high for fifty yen. It is obviously necessary for
+some American millionaire to buy up the massive gates and pagodas and
+temples of China in order to redeem them from complete ruin. The
+Japanese are the one people who have waked up in time to the value of
+these historic things, and several of the temples have been rebuilt
+before the old material was so rotted as to make them hopeless. Wood is
+a magnificent material when it is used in such massive structures as it
+is here. The biggest bell in the world, twelve feet high, is hung on a
+great tree trunk in a belfry with a curled-up roof of flower-like
+proportions, first having been hauled to the top of the high hill. We
+shall hear it boom next Saturday. We heard the one in Nara, the deepest
+thing I ever thought to hear, nine feet high. They are beautiful bronze
+and they are very mellow and melodious and reach to the center of
+whatever the center of your being may be and leave you to hope the
+greater unknown of the judgment day may be a call like that sound.
+
+We had lunch with Miss D----. She tells stories about the efforts of the
+Japanese girls to get an education that make you want to sell your
+earrings, even if you have none, in order to give the money to these
+idealists. They are as much pioneers as our forebears who chopped down
+the trees, but they can't get at a tree to chop. She says she wants me
+to go back to America and to go to every Congregational church there and
+tell them they must send money here to give education to the people.
+
+One day we have the mayor's car to go about in and the next day the
+University hires a car for us and we indulge ourselves in all kinds of
+doings we do not deserve and sometimes wonder if we shall have to commit
+suicide after it ends in order to condone the point of honor. Certainly
+these people have a nobility of character which entitles them to race
+equality.
+
+I want to find a nice quiet place to stay and come back and see the
+sights at greater length. The paintings on the walls are mostly ruined,
+but the kakemonas and the screens and the makemonas, those are wonderful
+and I am glad to say that we have got over seeing them as grotesque, and
+we feel their beauty. When once you see that the trees in the ground are
+real and that they look just as the trees in the pictures have always
+looked, then you begin to appreciate both nature and human nature as
+depicted.
+
+
+
+
+KYOTO, April 15.
+
+
+To-day is rainy and we haven't done much. We got here yesterday noon.
+The hotel is on the side of a hill with wonderful views, and is pretty
+good, though the one at Nara which is run by the Imperial Railway System
+is the only first-class one we have seen so far. In the afternoon the
+University sent a car and we took an auto ride into the suburbs to a
+famous cherry place--it was too late for blossoms, but the river and
+hills and woods were beautiful, and we saw the usual large crowd
+enjoying life. It is really wonderful the way the people go out, all
+classes, and the amount of pleasure they get out of doors and in the tea
+houses. I have never been anywhere where every day seemed so much of a
+holiday as in Japan--there is still sake in evidence but not so much.
+
+This month a special geisha dance is given here at a theater connected
+with a training school; the dance lasts an hour and is repeated four or
+five consecutive hours. We went last night; the dancing is much more
+mechanical posturing than the theater dancing, or than the little geisha
+dance we saw at Nara, but the color combinations and the way they
+handled the scenery were wonderful. There were eight very different
+scenes and it didn't take more than a minute to make any change. Once a
+curtain was simply drawn down through a trap door, another time what had
+looked like a canvas mat in front of the curtain was pulled up and it
+turned out to be painted on one side. But they had a different method
+every time.
+
+The mayor has invited me to speak to the teachers Saturday afternoon,
+and afterwards we are invited by the municipality to a Japanese dinner.
+They are also putting the city auto--the only one apparently--at our
+disposal, when they aren't using it, and have arranged to take us to a
+porcelain and a weaving factory next Monday. This town is the
+headquarters of Japan for artistic production, ancient and modern. The
+University authorities also telephoned to Tokyo and got permission for
+us to visit the palaces here, but they are said not to be equal to the
+Nagoya ones which we missed. While at Nara we spent most of our time at
+the Horiuji temples, some miles out. I won't do the encyclopedia act
+except to say that they are the headquarters of the introduction of
+Buddhism into Japan thirteen hundred years ago, which meant
+civilization, especially art, and have the wall frescoes, unfortunately
+faint, of that period, and lots of sculpture; this means wood carving,
+as of course there is no marble here. Well, it happened that it was the
+birthday of Prince Shotoku, who was the gentleman responsible for the
+aforesaid introduction, and of whom there are many statues, age of two,
+twelve and sixteen being favorites; his piety was precocious.
+Consequently, everything was wide open. Every kind of peep show and
+stall, and more than the usual hundreds of pilgrims who combine pleasure
+with piety in a way that beats even the Italian peasants; when they have
+money here they spend it; tightwadism is not a Japanese vice. Well, we
+were taken into the garden of the chief priest to eat our luncheon; of
+course, he was very busy, but greeted us in gorgeous robes and then sent
+out tea and rice cakes. The contrast between this lovely little garden
+and the drums and barkers just beyond the walls and the wonderful old
+artistic shrines beyond the barkers and ham and egg row was as
+interesting as anything in Japan.
+
+You may remember Miss E---- is rather tall for an American woman, even.
+Mamma is something of an object to the country people, but Miss E---- is
+a spectacle. Curiosity is the only emotion the Japanese are not taught
+to conceal apparently. They gather around in scores, literally. I don't
+know how many times I have seen parents make sure the children didn't
+miss the show. Several times I have seen people walk slowly and solemnly
+all the way around us to make sure they missed nothing. No rudeness
+ever, just plain curiosity. As we were going to the museum after
+breakfast, a few of those children, girls, appeared and bowed. First I
+knew one of them had hold of each of my hands, and went with us as far
+as the museum--girls of nine or ten. It was touching to see their
+friendliness, especially one evidently rather poor, who would look up at
+me and laugh, and then squeeze my hand and press it against herself, and
+then laugh with delight again. I haven't been able to discover when it
+ceases to be proper for children to be natural. Sunday morning some
+soldiers were going off to Manchuria--or Korea--and before eight we
+heard the patter of the clogs down the street and some hundred of boys
+and girls were marching down to the station with their teachers; the
+same thing next morning, for the soldiers.
+
+
+
+
+KYOTO, April 19.
+
+
+We have just come from another Geisha party, given by the mayor and
+about fifteen of the other officers of the city. Papa is quite stuck up
+because they say it is the first time the city of Kyoto ever entertained
+a scholar in that fashion. But if he is stuck up what should I be when a
+woman appears for the first time in history at a men's carouse in Japan?
+The Geisha girls are all the way from eleven years old to something like
+fifty. One of the older ones is the best dancer in the city, and she
+gave us one of the wonderful pantomime dances that so fascinate one
+here. She has been in jail for her political activities, said activities
+consisting in the active distribution of funds in order to elect someone
+she favored. It is against the law for a woman to take any part in
+politics here. Like all the older women of that class that I have seen
+she has a sad look when her face is at rest. But they all talk and
+entertain so busily that the sadness is not seen by the men. They are a
+very cultivated lot of women so far as we have seen them; of course we
+see only the best. They talk with the composure of a duchess and the
+good nature of a child. It is a rare combination. They are very curious
+about us and ask all sorts of questions. One girl of seventeen said she
+loved babies and how many did I have? When I told her five she was
+delighted. She had a rosebud mouth just like the old prints and danced
+with the old print postures. The girls pass the drinks and the rice
+which always comes at the end of such feasts. The little eleven-year-old
+gave a dance called "Climbing Fuji." Wonderful flat-footed movements
+that make you feel exactly as if you were climbing with her. In the
+middle part she puts on a mask which is puffy in the cheeks, and then
+she wipes the perspiration and washes her little face and fans herself
+and goes on again, flatfooted. All the motions are most elegant and
+graceful and subtle and serpentine, never an abrupt or sudden gesture,
+and never quite literal in any sense. After the dance was finished she
+came and sat by me and her skin was hot as if she had a fever. All the
+men were older and I must say they treated her very nicely.
+
+This is the way those feasts go. We enter the restaurant in stocking
+feet, and are usually shown to a small room where we kneel on the
+cushions and take tea while waiting for all the guests to assemble.
+About six this time, we were shown to the large room, which is always
+surrounded by gold screens and shoji, which slide back before the
+windows. Cushions are placed about three feet apart on three sides of
+the long and beautifully shaped room. In the middle of one side they are
+piled up so the foreign guests of honor may sit instead of kneeling
+Japanese fashion. We place ourselves after having all the guests one
+after another brought up. We shake hands because their bows are rather
+impossible and they have adapted themselves to our way. Then we all
+squat again. Then the pretty waitresses come slithering across the
+floor, each with a tiny table in her hands. The first is for Papa, the
+second for me, then the mayor, and so on. The mayor is down at the end
+of the line. After each one has his table before him the mayor comes to
+the center of the hollow square and makes a little speech of welcome. He
+always tells you how sorry he is he has such a poor entertainment and
+that he could not do better for these distinguished guests who do him so
+much honor by coming, and how this is the first time the city has ever
+honored a foreign scholar by this kind of entertainment. Then Papa does
+his best to make a reply, and after he sits down we lift the cover of a
+lovely lacquer soup bowl and lift the chop sticks. You take a drink of
+soup, lift a thin slippery slice of raw fish from its little dish, dip
+it in the sauce and put it in your mouth. To-night this first soup is a
+rich and rare green turtle, delicious. So you drink it all and take a
+little fish, but our guide warns us not to take too much raw fish as we
+are not accustomed it. By this time another tray of pretty lacquer is
+put beside you on the floor and on it is a tiny tray or platter of
+lacquer on which are placed two little fish browned to perfection, and
+trimmed with two little cakes of egg and powdered fish, very nicely
+rolled in cherry leaves. Every dish is a work of art in its arrangement.
+These two fish are the favorite of the last emperor, and you do not
+blame him. They are cooked in mirin, a kind of sweet liquor made from
+sake, and you eat all you can pick off the bones with your hashi. As
+soon as this tray is in place you see a lovely little girl with her
+long, bright-colored kimona on the floor around her, and she has in her
+hand a blue and white china bottle placed in a tiny lacquer coaster, and
+you know the feast is really under way. She is followed by the older
+girls, and little by little one at a time and quite gradually the
+dancing girls come in and bow to the floor while they pour out the
+sake. They laugh at the ways of the foreigners who always forget it is
+the part of the guest to hold out his tiny cup for the poison. Everybody
+drinks to the health of everybody else and there stops my sake, but the
+Japanese drink on and on, one cup at a sip and the hand reaching out for
+more. Talk gets livelier, the girls take more part in it. They are said
+by some to be the only interesting women in Japan. At any rate, no wives
+are ever there but me, and the girls are beautifully cultured, moving at
+the slightest suggestion of voice or gesture and always seeing quickly
+and very pleasantly what each one wants. As soon as they see we do not
+drink sake they bring many bottles of mineral water for us. Then they
+do their beautiful dances. Two, about seventeen years old, did one
+called "Twilight on the east hill of Kyoto." In Nagoya, in Tokyo, or
+wherever you are, the theme is always some natural event connected with
+the nature near by. Always simple and classic. Then the famous old
+dancer did a subtle thing called "The nurse putting the child to sleep."
+That is another favorite theme. This was lovely, but sometimes too
+subtle for us to grasp all the movements. These girls all dress in dark
+colors like the ladies, only with the difference prescribed by the
+profession, such as the low neck in the back and the full length of the
+kimona on the floor like a wave around her. With the young ones the obi
+is different, being tied to drop down on the floor in a long bow. The
+young ones also have the bright hair ornaments and the very long
+sleeves. But so do other young girls wear the long sleeves for company
+dress.
+
+There are other courses of fish; one of four strawberries, two slices of
+orange, some mint jelly cut in cubes, and sweetened bamboo slices in the
+middle of the list. Then more fish courses, many of them bright-colored
+shell fish which are always rather tough. Then a very nice mixture of
+sour cucumber salad and little pieces of lobster or crab, very nice and
+any sour thing is good with these many courses of fish. At the end bowls
+of rice, which is brought in in a big lacquer dish with a cover looking
+some like a small barrel. This is put into bowls by one of the older
+dancers and handed about by the younger ones who get up and down from
+their kneeling posture by just lifting themselves as if they had no
+weight, on their toes. Many of the Japanese take the regulation three
+bowls full of rice, and eat it very fast. I must say their rice is
+delicious, but I cannot get away with more than one bowl, partly because
+I cannot gobble. Then, for the last, your bowl is filled with tea.
+
+All this time the gentlemen from the other parts of the room are
+kneeling one at a time before you asking you if you like the cherry
+dance and what your first impressions of Japan were, and all such talk,
+and you have become intimate friends with the dancers as well, maybe
+with no common language except "thank you" and "very nice" and
+"good-bye," and constant smiles and interpretations now and then from
+others who know a very little English. One thing no one expects is for a
+foreigner to know a word of Japanese. Therefore, when you pop out an
+awkward word or two, you are applauded by laughter and compliments on
+your good pronunciation. To-night we had the very tiniest of green
+peppers cooked as a vegetable with one of the dishes. That was good as
+it had flavor; three of them about as big as a hairpin were served in
+the dish. You always get tiny portions and are usually warned not to eat
+too much at the first part of the meal. In the tea-dinner the rice comes
+along at the beginning so it can be eaten with the fish, and that is an
+agreeable variety though you are told not to eat too much of it as there
+are other courses to follow. I forgot to say there is always a course in
+the middle which is a hot custard made with broth instead of milk and
+seasoned with vegetables. That is good, too. In fact, I have become
+quite fond of this fish food.
+
+When we got in the motor car at the gate of the restaurant, all the gay
+little dancers were standing there in the rain waving their hands in
+American fashion till we went out of sight. Then I suppose the tired
+little things went back and danced for more men. We were home at 8:30.
+All the dinners seem to be early here in Japan, except what are called
+the foreign ones and they follow our hours as well as our style.
+
+I must tell you the best tea in Japan grows here at a place nearby
+called Uji. We had that tea after a lecture in the city hall. It is
+strong to the danger point, and has a flavor unlike anything else. An
+acid like lemon and no bitter at all; leaves a smooth pleasant taste
+something like dry sherry, and is generally delicious. It costs at least
+ten yen a pound here, but I shall get some to take home. Very good
+ordinary tea here costs fifteen sen a pound, seven and a half cents.
+
+
+
+
+KYOTO, April 22.
+
+
+To-day we were taken visiting schools--first a Boys' High school, then
+an elementary school which had an American flag along with the Japanese
+over the door in our honor, and which was awfully nice. The children did
+lots of cunning stunts for us, one little kid beating the Japanese drum
+for their rhythmic marching, which they are good at. Then a textile
+school for textile design, weaving and dyeing, which for some
+unexplained reason was bad and poorly attended. The machines were old,
+German and out of date. In fact, it all looked as if it had been worked
+off on them second hand by some Germans who didn't want them ever to
+amount to anything. All of the best work here is still done by hand,
+although they have good electric power developed from the water they
+have. Then we went to a Girls' High School, combined with a college for
+girls, preparing teachers for the regular high schools. The elite of
+Kyoto go there, and it, like the other schools, was very nice and good.
+They specialize in domestic science and we ate a fine Japanese lunch
+they had prepared. All this, like most our other trips, in the mayor's
+car.
+
+This is really a country where the scholar is looked up to and not down
+upon. In virtue of having lectured at the Imperial University I am "Your
+Excellency" officially. Osaka city does not wish to be outdone by Kyoto,
+so I am to lecture to the teachers there, and the city is to provide for
+us at the hotel, and the mayor to give us a banquet there. Of course,
+Mamma is the only woman present, as it would not occur to them to invite
+their own wives. Foreign women are expected, however, to do strange
+things, and they are very polite to them. The geisha women seem to be
+about the only ones who have an all-around education--not of the book
+type, but in the sense of knowing about things and being able and
+willing to talk--and I think the men go to these banquets and talk to
+them because they are tired of their too obeyful wives and their
+overdocility. One woman at the banquet we went to was known as the
+Singing Butterfly, and has the name Constitution as a nickname, because
+of her supposed interest in politics, especially on the liberal side.
+When we heard that she had been in prison because of her interest in
+politics, we sat up and took notice, but it turned out that it was for
+bribing voters to vote for a man she was interested in. But she is a
+local celebrity all right, and her stay in prison had evidently added to
+her interest and prestige.
+
+
+
+
+April 28, on the _Kumano Maru_.
+
+En Route to China.
+
+
+The lecture yesterday was a success, going off rather better than the
+others. It was in a school hall and they are always beautiful rooms. I
+was entertained during its two hours of duration by watching a splendid
+pink azalea and a pine on either side of the desk. They are each about
+five feet high and of the most lovely shape, and there were about a
+thousand blossoms on this azalea. We know but very little about dwarfed
+trees and shrubs in our country as the specimens we see are very small
+ones and inferior in shape and interest to those we see here. They are
+everywhere, each little shop has in the midst of its mess of second hand
+or cheap new things a charming little peach or plum, pine, azalea, or
+redberry. In a hot house we saw a tree that had two plums on it, and we
+frequently see tiny orange trees covered with fruit. The white peach is
+one of the loveliest things in the world, double blossoms like roses,
+and is entirely artificially produced.
+
+The smoke has lifted and we are seeing the hills of the shore very well.
+On the other side of the ship we see the Island of Awaji, so we are now
+between the two islands and it is much like the Thousand Islands in the
+St. Lawrence River. I suppose this is the entrance to the Inland Sea. It
+is partly clear and the land is so close it is easy to see. There are
+many Japanese ladies on board with their husbands and they seem to enjoy
+it. With their faces white with rice powder and their purple color in
+their haoris they are pretty, and especially here where they do not feel
+the necessity of covering the obi with haori so they look less
+humpbacked than in fashionable Tokyo. Their footwear I love, only, of
+course, it holds them still more to the conventional position as it
+leaves the legs bare above the ankle, and they must walk so as not to
+show that as well as not to disturb the lap of the kimona down the
+front. But the tabi feel like bare feet on account of the division of
+the big toe from the other toes, and as soon as you put them on you feel
+as if the toes were really made to use, and the foot clings as you walk.
+I am taking a set of cotton kimonas to China so as to have them to wear
+in my room with the tabi on hot days. Without the obi the dress becomes
+quite cool if made of thin material. The thin silk, which is practically
+transparent, is one of the most beautiful things in Japanese weaving, as
+it is still firm enough to keep its shape and wear for years.
+
+The dress of the geisha is very like the ceremonial dress of the lady,
+especially when black with decorations at the bottom. The little girls
+are very touching, many of them are not over eight or nine, and they
+wear the elaborate dress and coiffure which is theirs for the part. In
+cherry season it is bright peacock blue. In Osaka the decorations were
+butterflies in colors and gold. The samisen players are older and they
+dress more plainly in black or plain blue, the drum players are young
+and gay colored. The teeth of the little girls are so bad that I asked
+if they blackened them. The dances are lovely poetical things with
+themes of the most delicate subjects. There is never anything coarse
+either in the thought or the execution. They say the geisha is the most
+unselfish person in the world. Perhaps that might be said for all the
+women. They do their hard work and keep themselves out of sight to a
+degree that shows the pain there must be in it. When I was asked what I
+thought of them I answered that I thought Japanese women were not
+appreciated for what they did. They said, "No, that is not so, we do not
+show it but we appreciate them in our hearts."
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, May 1.
+
+
+We have slept one night in China, but we haven't any first impressions,
+because China hasn't revealed itself to our eyes as yet. We compared
+Shanghai to Detroit, Michigan, and except that there is less coal smoke,
+the description hits it off. This is said to be literally an
+international city, but I haven't learned yet just what the technique
+is; every country seems to have its own post office though, and its own
+front-door yard, and when we were given a little auto ride yesterday, we
+found that the car couldn't go into Chinatown because it had no license
+for that district.
+
+I shall be interested to find out whether in this really old country
+they talk about "ages eternal" as freely as they do in Japan; the
+authentic history of the latter begins about 500 A.D., their mythical
+history 500 B.C., but still it is a country which has endured during
+myriads of ages. In spite of the fact that they kept the emperors shut
+up for a thousand years, and killed them off and changed them about with
+great ease and complacency, the children are all taught, and they repeat
+in books for foreigners, that the rule of Japan has been absolutely
+unbroken. Of course, they get to believing these things themselves, not
+exactly intellectually but emotionally and practically, and it would be
+worth any teacher's position for him to question any of their patriotic
+legends in print. However, they say that in their oral lectures, the
+professors of history of the universities criticise these legends. In
+the higher elementary school we visited in Osaka, we saw five classes in
+history and ethics, in each of which the Emperor was under
+discussion--sometimes _the_ Emperor and what he had done for the
+country, and sometimes _an_ Emperor in particular. Apparently this
+religion has been somewhat of a necessity, as the country was so divided
+and split up, they had practically nothing else to unite on--the Emperor
+became a kind of symbol of united and modern Japan. But this worship is
+going to be an Old Man of the Sea on their backs. They say the
+elementary school teachers are about the most fanatical patriots of the
+country. More than one has been burned or allowed the children to be
+burned while he rescued the portrait of the Emperor when there was a
+fire. They must take it out in patriotism in lieu of salary; they don't
+get a living wage, now that the cost of living has gone up.
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, May 2.
+
+
+We have been taken in hand by a reception committee of several Chinese
+gentlemen, mostly returned American students. The "returned student" is
+a definite category here, and if and when China gets on its feet, the
+American university will have a fair share of the glory to its credit.
+They took us to see a Chinese cotton spinning and weaving factory. There
+is not even the pretense at labor laws here that there is in Japan.
+Children six years of age are employed, not many though, and the wages
+of the operatives in the spinning department, mainly women, is thirty
+cents a day, at the highest thirty-two cents Mex. In the weaving
+department they have piece work and get up to forty cents.
+
+I will tell you something of what we had to eat in one small afternoon.
+First, lunch of all courses here at the hotel. Then we went to the
+newspaper where we had tea and cake at about four. From there to the
+house of the daughter of a leading statesman of the Manchus, she being a
+lady of small feet and ten children, who has offered a prize for the
+best essay on the ways to stop concubinage, which they call the whole
+system of plural marriage. They say it is quite unchanged among the
+rich. There we were given a tea of a rare sort, unknown in our
+experience. Two kinds of meat pies which are made in the form of little
+cakes and quite peculiar in taste, delicious; also cake. Then after we
+went to the restaurant where we were to have dinner. First we got into
+the wrong hotel and there, while we were waiting, they gave us tea. We
+were struck by the fact that they asked for nothing when we left, and
+thanked us for coming to the wrong place. Then we went to the right
+hotel across the street from the first. They called it the corner of
+Broadway and 42nd Street, and it is that. There is a big roof garden
+besides the hotels, and they are both run by the Department stores which
+have their places underneath. It may be a sad commentary on the human
+character that one can eat more than one can remember, but that is what
+we did last night. First of all we went into the room which was all
+Chinese furniture; very small round table in the middle and the rows of
+stools along one side for the singing girls, who do not dance here.
+Those stools were not used, as all the young Chinese are ashamed of that
+institution and want to get rid of it. On a side table were almonds
+shelled, nice little ones, different from ours and very sweet. Beside
+them were dried watermelon seeds which were hard to crack and so I did
+not taste them. All the Chinese nibbled them with relish. Two ladies
+came, both of them had been in New York to study. All these people speak
+and understand English in earnest. On the table were little pieces of
+sliced ham, the famous preserved eggs which taste like hard-boiled eggs
+and look like dark-colored jelly, and little dishes of sweets, shrimps,
+etc. To these we helped ourselves with the chop sticks, though they
+insisted on giving us little plates on which they spooned out some of
+each. Then followed such a feast as we had never experienced, the boys
+taking off one dish after another and replacing them with others in the
+center of the table, to which we helped ourselves. There was no special
+attempt at display of fine dishes such as you might have expected with
+such cooking and such expense, and such as would have happened in Japan.
+We had chicken and duck and pigeon and veal and pigeon eggs and soup and
+fish and little oysters that grow in the ground (very delicious and
+delicate) and nice little vegetables and bamboo sprouts mixed in with
+the others, and we had shrimps cooked, and shark's fin and bird's nest
+(this has no taste at all and is a sort of very delicate soup, but costs
+a fortune and that is its real reason for being). It is gelatine which
+almost all dissolves in the cooking. We had many more things than these,
+and the boy in a dirty white coat and an old cap on his head passing
+round the hot perfumed wet towels every few courses, and for dessert we
+had little cakes made of bean paste filled up with almond paste and
+other sweets, all very elaborately made, and works of art to look at,
+but with too little taste to appeal much to us; then we had fruits,
+bananas and apples and pears, cut up in pieces, each with a toothpick in
+it so it can be eaten easily. Then we had a soup made of fish's stomach,
+or air sac. Then we had a pudding of the most delicious sort imaginable,
+made of a mold of rice filled in with eight different symbolic things
+that I don't know anything about, but they don't cut much part in the
+taste. In serving this dish we were first given a little bowl half full
+of a sauce thickened and looking like a milk sauce. It was really made
+of powdered almonds. Into this you put the pudding, and it is so good
+that I regretted all that had gone before, and I am going to learn how
+to make it.
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, May 3.
+
+
+Some one told us when we were on the boat that the Japanese cared
+everything for what people thought of them, and the Chinese cared
+nothing. Making comparisons is a favorite, if dangerous, indoor sport.
+The Chinese are noisy, not to say boisterous, easy-going and dirty--and
+quite human in general effect. They are much bigger than the Japanese,
+and frequently very handsome from any point of view. The most surprising
+thing is the number of those who look not merely intelligent but
+intellectual among the laborers, such as some of the hotel waiters and
+attendants. Our waiter is a rather feminine, ultra refined type, and
+might be a poet. I noticed quite a number of the same Latin quarter
+Paris type of artists among the teachers whom I addressed to-day. The
+Japanese impressions are gradually sinking into perspective with
+distance, and it is easy to see that the same qualities that make them
+admirable are also the ones that irritate you. That they should have
+made what they have out of that little and mountainous island is one of
+the wonders of the world, but everything in themselves is a little
+overmade, there seems to be a rule for everything, and admiring their
+artistic effects one also sees how near art and the artificial are
+together. So it is something of a relaxation to get among the easy-going
+once more. Their slouchiness, however, will in the end get on one's
+nerves quite as much as the "eternal" attention of the Japanese. One
+more generalization borrowed from one of our Chinese friends here, and
+I'm done. "The East economizes space and the West time"--that also is
+much truer than most epigrams.
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, May 4.
+
+
+I have seen a Chinese lady, small feet and all. We took dinner with her.
+She did not come into the room until after dinner was over, having been
+in the kitchen cooking it while the servant brought things in. She has
+one of those placid faces which are round and plump and quite beautiful
+in a way, a pretty complexion, and of course a slow, rocking, hobbling
+way of walking. Yesterday after the lecture we went there again and she
+showed us all over her flat. It is well kept, with not many conveniences
+from our point of view, but I think it is regarded as quite modern here.
+It has a staircase, and a little roof where they dry clothes or sit. The
+bath is a tin tub, warmed by carrying water from the little stove like
+our little laundry stoves. It has an outlet pipe to the ground, no
+sewers as usual in the Orient. The kitchen has a little stove of iron
+set up on boxes and they burn small pieces of wood. It has three
+compartments, two big shallow iron pots for roasting and boiling and a
+deep one in the middle for keeping the hot water for tea. Only two fires
+are needed as the heat from the two end fires does for the water in the
+middle.
+
+There is no doubt that the Chinese are a sociable people if given a
+chance. Of course, men like the husband of our hostess are the extreme
+of ability and advanced ideas here. But it is remarkable that he shows
+us things as they are. When we visited schools he did not arrange in
+advance because he did not want us to see a fixed up program. When we
+went out to lunch he took us to a Chinese place where no foreigners ever
+go.
+
+Yesterday we went to a department store to buy some gloves and garters.
+Gloves were Keyser's, imported, so were the stockings, so were the
+garters and suspenders, etc. The gloves were from $1 to $1.60 and the
+suspenders were a dollar. I bought some silk, sixteen inches wide, for
+fifty cents a yard. The store was messy and the floors dirty, but it is
+a popular place for the Chinese. We paid three dollars for a book marked
+1sh. 6p. in England, and everything here is like that. Gloves and
+stockings are made in Japan, and good and cheap there; fine silken
+stockings $1.60 a pair. But still the Chinese do not buy of them, but
+from America. We have visited a cotton mill. The Chinese cotton and silk
+are now inferior, owing to lack of scientific production and of proper
+care of seed. In weaving, they sometimes mix their cotton with ours.
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, Monday, May 12.
+
+
+The Peking tempest seems to have subsided for the present, the
+Chancellor still holding the fort, and the students being released. The
+subsidized press said this was due in part to the request of the
+Japanese that the school-boy pranks be looked upon indulgently.
+According to the papers, the Japanese boycott is spreading, but the ones
+we see doubt if the people will hold out long enough--meanwhile Japanese
+money is refused here.
+
+The East is an example of what masculine civilization can be and do. The
+trouble I should say is that the discussions have been confined to the
+subjection of the women as if that were a thing affecting the women
+only. It is my conviction that not merely the domestic and educational
+backwardness of China, but the increasing physical degeneration and the
+universal political corruption and lack of public spirit, which make
+China such an easy mark, is the result of the condition of women. There
+is the same corruption in Japan only it is organized; there seems to be
+an alliance between two groups of big capitalists and the two leading
+political "parties." There the very great public spirit is nationalistic
+rather than social, that is, it is patriotism rather than public spirit
+as we understand it. So while Japan is strong where China is weak, there
+are corresponding defects there because of the submission of women--and
+the time will come when the hidden weakness will break Japan down. Here
+are two items from the Chinese side. A missionary spoke to Christian
+Chinese about spending the time Sunday, making chiefly the point that it
+was a good time for family reunions and family readings, conversation
+and the like. One of them said that they would be bored to death if they
+had to spend the whole day with their wives. Then we are told that the
+rich women--who have of course much less liberty in getting out than the
+poorer class women--spend their time among themselves gambling. It is
+universally believed that the attempt to support a number of wives
+extravagantly is one of the chief sources of political corruption. On
+the other hand, at one of the political protest meetings in Peking a
+committee of twelve was appointed to go to the officials and four of
+them were women. In Japan women are forbidden to attend any meetings
+where politics are discussed, and the law is strictly enforced. There
+are many more Chinese women studying in America than there are
+Japanese--in part, perhaps, because of the lack of higher schools for
+girls here, but also because they don't have to give up marriage here
+when they get an education--in fact we are told they are in especial
+demand not only among the men who have studied abroad, but among the
+millionaires. Certainly the educated ones here are much more advanced on
+the woman question than in Japan.
+
+"You never can tell" is the coat of arms of China. The Chancellor of the
+University was forced out on the evening of the eighth by the cabinet,
+practically under threat of assassination; also soldiers (bandits) were
+brought into the city and the University surrounded, so to save the
+University rather than himself, he left--nobody knows where. The release
+of the students was sent out by telegraph, but they refused to allow
+this to become known. It seems this Chancellor was more the intellectual
+leader of the liberals than I had realized, and the government had
+become really afraid of him. He has only been there two years, and
+before that the students had never demonstrated politically and now they
+are the leaders of the new movement. So of course the government will
+put in a reactionary, and the students will leave and all the honest
+teachers resign. Perhaps the students will go on strike all over China.
+But you never can tell.
+
+
+
+
+Tuesday A.M.
+
+
+Ex-President Sun Yat Sen is a philosopher, as I found out last night
+during dinner with him. He has written a book, to be published soon,
+saying that the weakness of the Chinese is due to their acceptance of
+the statement of an old philosopher, "To know is easy, to act is
+difficult." Consequently they did not like to act and thought it was
+possible to get a complete theoretical understanding, while the strength
+of the Japanese was that they acted even in ignorance and went ahead and
+learned by their mistakes; the Chinese were paralyzed by fear of making
+a mistake in action. So he has written a book to prove to his people
+that action is really easier than knowledge.
+
+The American sentiment here hopes that the Senate will reject the treaty
+because it virtually completes the turning over of China to Japan. I
+will only mention two things said in the conversation. Japan already has
+more troops, namely twenty-three divisions, under arms in China than she
+has in Japan, Japanese officered Chinese, and her possession of
+Manchurian China is already complete. They have lent China two hundred
+millions to be used in developing this army and extending it. They
+offered China, according to the conversation at dinner, to lend her two
+million a month for twenty years for military purposes. Japan figured
+the war would last till '21 or '22, and had proposed an offensive and
+defensive alliance to Germany, Japan to supply its trained Chinese army,
+and Germany to turn over to Japan the Allies' concessions and colonies
+in China. As an evidence of good faith, Germany had already offered to
+Japan its own Chinese territory, and it was the communication of this
+fact to Great Britain which induced the latter to sign the secret pact
+agreeing to turn over German possessions to Japan, when the peace was
+made. These men are not jingoists; they think they know what they are
+talking about, and they have good sources of knowledge. Some of these
+statements are known facts--like the size of the army and the two
+hundred million loan--but of course I can't guarantee them. But I'm
+coming to the opinion that it might be well worth while to reject the
+treaty on the ground that it involved the recognition of secret treaties
+and secret diplomacy. On the other hand, a genuine League of
+Nations--one with some vigor--is the only salvation I can see of the
+whole Eastern situation, and it is infinitely more serious than we
+realize at home. If things drift on five or ten years more, the world
+will have a China under Japanese military domination--barring two
+things--Japan will collapse in the meantime under the strain, or Asia
+will be completely Bolshevikized, which I think is about fifty-fifty
+with a Japanized-Militarized China. European diplomacy here, which of
+course dominates America, is completely futile. England does everything
+with reference to India, and they all temporize and drift and take what
+are called optimistic long-run views and quarrel among themselves, and
+Japan alone knows what it wants and comes after it.
+
+I still believe in the genuineness of the Japanese liberal movement
+there, but they lack moral courage. They, the intellectual liberals, are
+almost as ignorant of the true facts as we are, and enough aware of them
+to wish to keep themselves in ignorance. Then there is the great
+patriotism, which of course easily justifies, by the predatory example
+of the Europeans, the idea that this is all in self-defense.
+
+
+
+
+SHANGHAI, May 13.
+
+
+I closed up abruptly because there seemed a possibility of mail going
+out and now it is a day after and more to tell, with a prospect of
+little time to tell it. China is full of unused resources and there are
+too many people. The factories begin to work at six or earlier in the
+morning, with not enough for the poor to do, and they have the habit of
+not wanting to work much. Two shifts work in factories for the
+twenty-four hours. They get about twenty to thirty cents a day and the
+little children get from nothing up to nine cents, or even eleven cents
+after they get older. Iron mines are idle, coal and oil undeveloped, and
+they cannot get railroads. They burn their wood everywhere and the
+country is withering away because it is deforested. They made the
+porcelain industry for the world and they buy their table dishes from
+Japan. They raise a deteriorated cotton and buy cotton cloth from Japan.
+They buy any quantity of small useful articles from Japan. Japanese are
+in every town across China like a network closing in on fishes.
+
+All the mineral resources of China are the prey of the Japanese, and
+they have secured 80 per cent of them by bribery of the Peking
+government. Talk to a Chinese and he will tell you that China cannot
+develop because she has no transportation facilities. Talk to him about
+building railroads and he tells you China ought to have railroads but
+she cannot build them because she cannot get the material. Talk to him
+about fuel when you see all the weeds being gathered from the roadsides
+for burning in the cook stoves, and he tells you China cannot use her
+mines because of the government's interference. There are large coal
+mines within ten miles of this city with the coal lying near the surface
+and only the Japanese are using them, though they are right on the bank
+of the Yangste River. The iron mines referred to are near the river, a
+whole mountain of iron being worked by the Japanese, who bring the ocean
+ships up the river, load them directly from the mines, the ore being
+carried down the hill, and take these ships directly to Japan, and they
+pay four dollars a ton to the Chinese company which carries on all the
+work.
+
+The last hope of China for an effective government passed away with the
+closing of the Peace Conference, which has been working hard here for
+weeks. It seems the delegates from the south could act with plenary
+power. The delegates from the north had to refer everything to the
+military ministers from Peking, and so at last they gave up. Despair is
+deeper than ever, and they all say that nothing can be done. We have
+gone round recommending many ways of getting at the wrong impressions
+that prevail in our country about them, such as propaganda, an
+insistence upon the explanation of the differences between the people
+and the government. But the reply is, "We can do nothing, we have no
+money." Certainly the Chinese pride has been grounded now. An American
+official here says there is no hope for China except through the
+protection of the great powers, in which Japan must join. Without that
+she is the prey of Japan. Japanese are buying best bits of land in this
+city for business, and in other cities. Japan borrows money from other
+nations and then loans it to China on bleeding terms. The cession of
+Shantung has, of course, precipitated the whole mess and some Chinese
+think that is their last hope to so reduce them to the last extremity
+that rage will bring them to act. The boycott of Japanese goods and
+money has begun, but many say it will not be persistently carried out.
+The need for food and clothes in China keeps everybody bound by the
+struggle for a livelihood, and everything else has to be forgotten in
+the long run.
+
+The protests of the Faculty on behalf of the students seem to have been
+received by the government in good part. Students here are in trouble
+also to some extent and there is a probability of a strike of students
+in all the colleges and middle schools of the country. The story at St.
+John's here is very interesting. It is the Episcopalian mission school,
+and one of the best. Students walked to Shanghai, ten miles, on the
+hottest day to parade, then ten miles back. Some of them fell by the way
+with sunstroke. On their return in the evening they found some of the
+younger students going in to a concert. The day was a holiday, called
+the Day of Humiliation. It is the anniversary of the date of the
+twenty-one demands of Japan, and is observed by all the schools. It is a
+day of general meetings and speechmaking for China. These students stood
+outside of the door where the concert was to be held and their principal
+came out and told them they must go to the concert. They replied that
+they were praying there, as it was not a time for celebrating by a
+concert on the Day of Humiliation. Then they were ordered to go in first
+by this principal and afterwards by the President of the whole college.
+Considerable excitement was the result. Students said they were watching
+there for the sake of China as the apostles prayed at the death of
+Christ and this anniversary was like the anniversary of the death of
+Christ. The President told them if they did not go in then he would shut
+them out of the college. This he did. They stood there till morning and
+then one of them who lived nearby took them into his house. Therefore
+St. John's College is closed and the President has not given in.
+
+I fancy the Chinese would be almost ready to treat the Japanese as they
+did the treacherous minister if it were not for the reaction it would
+have on the world at large. They do hate them and the Americans we have
+met all seem to feel with them. Certainly the apparent lie of the
+Japanese when they made their splurge in promising before the sitting of
+the Peace Conference to give back the German concessions to China is
+something America ought not to forget. All these, and the extreme
+poverty of China is what I had no idea of before coming here.
+
+A wonderfully solemn and intent old pedlar has made his appearance most
+every day, and much the same ceremonies are gone through. For instance,
+there was a bead necklace--the light hollowed silver enamel--he wanted
+fourteen dollars for; he seemed rather glad finally to sell it for four,
+though you can't say he seemed glad; on the contrary, he seemed
+preternaturally gloomy and remarked that he and not we would eat
+bitterness because of this purchase. The funniest thing was once when,
+after getting sick of bargaining, we put the whole thing down and
+started to walk away. His movements and gestures would have made an
+actor celebrated--they are indescribable, but they said in effect,
+"Rather than have any misunderstanding come between me and my close
+personal friends I would give you free anything in my possession." The
+blood rushed to his face and a smile of heavenly benignity came over it
+as he handed us the things at the price we had offered him.
+
+The students' committees met yesterday and voted to inform the
+government by telegraph that they would strike next Monday if their four
+famous demands were not granted--or else five--including of course
+refusal to sign the peace treaty, punishment of traitors who made the
+secret treaties with Japan because they were bribed, etc. But the
+committee seemed to me more conservative than the students, for the
+rumor this A.M. is that they are going to strike to-day anyway. They are
+especially angered because the police have forbidden them to hold
+open-air meetings--that's now the subject of one of their demands--and
+because the provincial legislature, after promising to help on
+education, raised their own salaries and took the money to do it with
+out of the small educational fund. In another district the students
+rioted and rough-housed the legislative hall when this happened. Here
+there was a protest committee, but the students are mad and want action.
+Some of the teachers, so far as I can judge, quite sympathize with the
+boys, not only in their ends but in their methods; some think it their
+moral duty to urge deliberate action and try to make the students as
+organized and systematic as possible, and some take the good old Chinese
+ground that there is no certainty that any good will come of it. To the
+outsider it looks as if the babes and sucklings who have no experience
+and no precedents would have to save China--if. And it's an awful if.
+It's not surprising that the Japanese with their energy and positiveness
+feel that they are predestined to govern China.
+
+I didn't ever expect to be a jingo, but either the United States ought
+to wash its hands entirely of the Eastern question, and say "it's none
+of our business, fix it up yourself any way you like," or else it ought
+to be as positive and aggressive in calling Japan to account for every
+aggressive move she makes, as Japan is in doing them. It is sickening
+that we allow Japan to keep us on the defensive and the explanatory, and
+talk about the open door, when Japan has locked most of the doors in
+China already and got the keys in her pocket. I understand and believe
+what all Americans say here--the military party that controls Japan's
+foreign policy in China regards everything but positive action, prepared
+to back itself by force, as fear and weakness, and is only emboldened to
+go still further. Met by force, she would back down. I don't mean
+military force, but definite positive statements about what she couldn't
+do that she knew meant business. At the present time the Japanese are
+trying to stir up anti-foreign feeling and make the Chinese believe the
+Americans and English are responsible for China not getting Shantung
+back, and also talking race discrimination for the same purpose. I don't
+know what effect their emissaries are having among the ignorant, but the
+merchant class has about got to the point of asking foreign intervention
+to straighten things out--first to loosen the clutch of Japan, and then,
+or at the same time, for it's the two sides of the same thing, overthrow
+the corrupt military clique that now governs China and sells it out.
+It's a wonderful job for a League of Nations--if only by any chance
+there is a league, which looks most dubious at this distance.
+
+The question which is asked oftenest by the students is in effect this:
+"All of our hopes of permanent peace and internationalism having been
+disappointed at Paris, which has shown that might still makes right, and
+that the strong nations get what they want at the expense of the weak,
+should not China adopt militarism as part of her educational system?"
+
+
+
+
+NANKING, May 18.
+
+
+There is no doubt we are in China. Hangchow, we are told, was one of the
+most prosperous of the strictly Chinese cities, and after seeing this
+town we can believe it. It has a big wall around it, said to be 21 miles
+and also 33--my guess is the latter; nonetheless there are hundreds of
+acres of farm within it. This afternoon we were taken up on the wall; it
+varies from 15 to 79 feet in height, according to the lay of the ground,
+and from 12 to 30 feet or so wide; hard baked brick, about as large as
+three of ours. They always had a smaller walled city inside the big one,
+variously called the Imperial and Manchu city. But since the revolution
+they are tearing down these inner walls, partly I suppose to show their
+contempt for the Manchus, and partly to use the brick. These are sold
+for three or four cents apiece and carted all around on the big Chinese
+wheelbarrow, by man power, of course. The compound wall of this house is
+made of them, and they have several thousand of them stored at the
+University grounds. They scrape them off by hand; you can get some idea
+of the relative value of material and human beings. I started out to
+speak of the view--typical China, deforested hills close by, all
+pockmarked at the bottom with graves, like animal burrows and golf
+bunkers; peasants' stone houses with thatched roofs, looking like
+Ireland or France; orchards of pomegranates with lovely scarlet blossoms
+and other fruits; some rice fields already growing, others being set
+out, ten or a dozen people at work in one patch; garden patches, largely
+melons; in the distance the wall stretching out for miles, a hill with a
+pagoda, a lotus lake, and in the far distance the blue mountains--also
+the city, not so much of which was visible, however.
+
+One of the interesting things in moving about is the fact that only once
+in a while do I see a face typically Chinese. I forget they are Chinese
+a great deal of the time. They just seem like dirty, poor miserable
+people anywhere. They are cheerful but not playful. I should like to
+give a few millions for playgrounds and toys and play leaders. I can't
+but think that a great deal of the lack of initiative and the
+let-George-do-it, which is the curse of China, is connected with the
+fact that the children are grown up so soon. There are less than a
+hundred schools for children in this city of a third of a million, and
+the schools only have a few hundred--two or three at most. The children
+on the street are always just looking and watching, wise, human looking,
+and reasonably cheerful, but old and serious beyond bearing. Of course
+many are working at the loom, or when they are younger at reeling. This
+is a good deal of a silk place, and we visited one government factory
+with several hundred people at work; this one at least makes out to be
+self-supporting. There isn't a power reeler or loom in the town, nor yet
+a loom of the Jacquard type. Sometimes a boy sits up top and shifts
+things, sometimes they have six or eight foot treadles. A lot of the
+reeling isn't even foot power--just hand, though their hand reeler is
+much more ingenious than the Japanese one. There seem so many places to
+take hold and improve things and yet all of these are so tied together,
+and change is so hard that it isn't much wonder everybody who stays here
+gets more or less Chinafied and takes it out in liking the Chinese
+personally for their amiable qualities.
+
+Just now the students are forming a patriotic league because of the
+present political situation, Japanese boycott, etc. But the teachers of
+the Nanking University here say that instead of contenting themselves
+with the two or three things they might well do, they are laying out an
+ambitious scheme covering everything, and their energy will be exhausted
+when they get their elaborate constitution formed, or they will meet so
+many difficulties that they will get discouraged even with the things
+they might do. I don't know whether I told you about the clerk in the
+tailor shop in Shanghai; after taking the usual fatalistic attitude that
+nothing could be done with the present situation, he said the boycott
+was a good thing but "Chinaman he got weak mind; pretty soon he forget."
+
+In various places there are lots of straw hats hung up painted in
+Chinese characters where they have stopped passersby and taken their
+hats away because they were Japanese made. It is all good natured and
+nobody objects. There are policemen in front of Japanese stores, and
+they allow no one to enter; they are "protecting" the Japanese. This is
+characteristic of China. The policemen all carry guns with bayonets
+attached; they are very numerous and slouch around looking bored to
+death. The only other class as bored looking is the dogs, which are even
+more numerous, and lie stretched out at full length, never curled up,
+and never by any chance doing anything.
+
+We visited the old examination halls which are now being torn down.
+These are the cells, about 25,000 in number, where the candidates for
+degrees used to be shut up during the examination period. Said cells are
+built in long rows, under a lean-to roof, mostly opening face to face on
+an open corridor, which is uncovered. Some of them face against a wall
+which is the back of the next row of cells. Cells are two and one-half
+feet wide by four long. In them are two ridges along the wall on each
+side, one at the height of a seat, the other at the height of a table.
+On these they laid two boards, two and a half feet long, and this was
+their furniture. They sat and wrote and cooked and ate and slept in
+these cells. In case it did not rain, their feet could stick out into
+the corridor so they might stretch out on the hard floor. The exams
+lasted eight days, divided into three divisions. They went in on the
+eighth day of the eighth moon in the evening. They wrote the first
+subject until the afternoon of the tenth. Then they left for the night.
+On the afternoon of the eleventh they came in for the second subject and
+wrote till the afternoon of the thirteenth, when there was another day
+off. On the evening of the fourteenth they re-entered the cell for the
+third period and that ended on the evening of the sixteenth. They had
+free communication with each other in the corridors, which were closed
+and locked. No one could approach them from the outside for any reason.
+Often they died. But if they could only get put into a corridor with a
+friend who knew, the biggest fool in China could get his paper written
+for him, and he could pass and become an M. A., or something
+corresponding to that degree. Thus were the famous literati of China
+produced. Preparation for the exam was not the affair of the government,
+and might be acquired in any possible way. The houses of the examiners
+are still in good condition and might be made into a school very easily.
+But do you think they will do that? Not at all. The government has not
+ordered a school there, and so they will be torn down or else used for
+some official work. You can have no conception of how far the
+officialism goes till you see it. We also visited a Confucian Temple,
+big and used twice each year. It is like all temples in that it is
+covered with the dust of many years' accumulation. If you were to be
+dropped in any Chinese temple you would think you had landed in a
+deserted and forgotten ruin out of reach of man. We went to the Temple
+of Hell on Sunday, and the gentleman who accompanied us suggested to the
+priest that the images ought to be dusted off. "Yes," said the priest,
+"it would be better if they were."
+
+
+
+
+NANKING, Thursday, May 22.
+
+
+The returned students from Japan hate Japan, but they are all at loggers
+with the returned students from America, and their separate
+organizations cannot get together. Many returned students have no jobs,
+apparently because they will not go into business or begin at the bottom
+anywhere, and there is strong hostility against them on the part of the
+officials.
+
+As a sample of the way business is done here, we have just had an
+express letter from Shanghai which took four days to arrive. It should
+arrive in twelve hours. People use express letters rather than the
+telegraph because they are quicker. You may spend as much time as you
+like or don't like, wondering why your express letter did not reach you
+on time; you do it at your own risk and expense. The Chinese do not
+juggle with foreigners as the Japanese do, in the conscious sense, they
+simply drift, they juggle with themselves and with each other all the
+time.
+
+This house is four miles from the railroad station. There is no street
+car here; there are many 'rickshas, a few carriages, still fewer autos.
+There are no sedan chairs, at least I don't remember seeing any, but at
+Chienkiang, where we went the other day, the streets are so narrow that
+chairs are the main means of conveyance. The 'ricksha men here pay forty
+cents a day to the city for their vehicles, which are all alike and very
+poor ones. They make a little more than that sum for themselves. In
+Shanghai they pay ninety cents a day for their right to work, and earn
+from one dollar to a possible dollar and a half for themselves.
+
+I said to a young professor, the other day, that China was still
+supporting three idle classes of people. He looked surprised, though a
+student and critic of social conditions, and asked me who they were.
+When I asked him if that couldn't be said of the officials, the priests,
+and the army, he said yes, it could. Thus far and no further, seems to
+be their motto, both in thinking and acting, especially in acting.
+
+
+
+
+NANKING, May 23.
+
+
+I don't believe anybody knows what the political prospects are; this
+students' movement has introduced a new and uncalculable factor--and all
+in the three weeks we have been here. You heard nothing but gloom about
+political China at first, corrupt and traitorous officials, soldiers
+only paid banditti, the officers getting the money from Japan to pay
+them with, no organizing power or cohesion among the Chinese; and then
+the students take things into their hands, and there is animation and a
+sudden buzz. There are a hundred students being coached here to go out
+and make speeches, they will have a hundred different stations scattered
+through the city. It is also said the soldiers are responding to the
+patriotic propaganda; a man told us that the soldiers wept when some
+students talked to them about the troubles of China, and the soldiers of
+Shantung, the province turned over to Japan, have taken the lead in
+telegraphing the soldiers in the other provinces to resist the corrupt
+traitors. Of course, what they all are afraid of is that this is a flash
+in the pan, but they are already planning to make the student movement
+permanent and to find something for them to do after this is settled.
+Their idea here is to reorganize them for popular propaganda for
+education, more schools, teaching adults, social service, etc.
+
+It is very interesting to compare the men who have been abroad with
+those who haven't--I mean students and teachers. Those who haven't are
+sort of helpless, practically; the height of literary and academic
+minds. Those who have studied abroad, even in Japan, have much more go
+to them. Certainly the classicists in education have a noble example
+here in China of what their style of education can do if only kept up
+long enough. On the other hand, there must be something esthetically
+very fine in the old Chinese literature; even many of the modern young
+men have a sentimental attachment to it, precisely like that which they
+have to the fine writing of their characters. They talk about them with
+all the art jargon: "Notice the strength of this down stroke, and the
+spirituality of the cross stroke and elegant rhythm of the composition."
+When we visited a temple the other day, one of the chief Buddhist
+shrines in China, we were presented with a rubbing of the writing of the
+man who is said to be the finest writer ever known in China--these
+characters were engraved in the rock from his writing some centuries
+ago--I don't know how many. It is very easy to see how cultivated people
+take refuge in art and spirituality when politics are corrupt and the
+general state of social life is discouraging; you see it here, and how
+in the end it increases the decadence.
+
+I think we wrote you from Shanghai that we had been introduced to all
+the mysteries of China, ancient eggs, sharks' fins, birds' nests, pigeon
+eggs, the eight precious treasures, rice pudding, and so on. We continue
+to have Chinese meals; yesterday lunch in the home of an adviser to a
+military official. He is very outspoken, doesn't trim in politics, and
+gives you a more hopeful feeling about China. The most depressing thing
+is hearing it said, "When we get a stable government, we can do so and
+so, but there is no use at present." But this man's attitude is rather,
+"Damn the government and go ahead and do something." He is very proud of
+having a "happy, Christian home" and doesn't cover up his Christianity
+as most of the official and wealthy class seem to do. He expects to have
+his daughters educated in America, one in medicine and one in home
+affairs, and to have help in a campaign for changing the character of
+the Chinese home--from these big aggregates of fifty people or so living
+together, married children, servants, etc., where he says the waste is
+enormous, to say nothing of bickerings and jealousies. In the old type
+of well-to-do home, breakfast would begin for someone about seven, and
+someone would have cooking done for him to eat till noon; then about
+two, visitors would come, and the servants would be ordered to cook
+something for each caller--absolutely no organization or planning in
+anything, according to him.
+
+
+
+
+NANKING, Monday, May 26.
+
+
+The trouble among the students is daily getting worse, and even the most
+sympathetic among the faculties are getting more and more anxious. The
+governor of this province, capital here, is thought most liberal, and he
+has promised to support these advanced measures in education. Last
+Friday the assembly passed a bill cutting down the educational
+appropriation and raising their own salaries. Therefore the students
+here are now all stirred up and the faculties are afraid they cannot be
+kept in control until they are well enough organized to make a strike
+effective. At the same time our friends are kept busy running up to the
+assembly and the governor. The latter has promised to veto the bill when
+it is sent to him from the senate. But the students are getting anxious
+to go to the senate themselves. Our friends say it costs so much for
+these men to get elected that they have to get it all back after they
+get into office. A missionary says: "Let's go out and shoot them all,
+they are just as bad as Peking, and if they had the same chance they
+would sell out the whole country to Japan or to anyone else." Certainly
+China needs education all along the line, but they never will get it as
+long as they try in little bits. So maybe they will have to be pushed to
+the very bottom before they will be ready to go the whole hog or none.
+
+Yesterday a Chinese lady had a tea for me and asked the Taitai, as the
+wives of the officials are called, corresponding to the court ladies of
+previous times. As a function this was interesting, for every woman
+brought her servant and most of her children. Some appeared to have two
+servants, one big-footed maid for herself and one bound-footed as a
+nurse for the children. Her own servant hands her the cup of tea. All
+the children are fed at the same time as the grown-ups, and after their
+superiors the servants get something in the kitchen. I don't know yet
+what that something is, but probably an inferior tea. The tea we drank
+is that famous jasmine tea from Hangchow. It costs something like
+fifteen dollars a pound here. It is very good, with a peculiar spicy
+flavor, almost musky and smoky, from the jasmine combined with the tea
+flavor, which is strong. It is a delicious brown tea, but I do not like
+to drink it so well as I like the best green tea.
+
+Well, I wish you could see the Taitai. The wife of the governor is about
+twenty-five, or may be a little more. She is a substantial young person,
+with full-grown feet, a pale blue dress of skirt and coat scalloped on
+the edges and bound with black satin, her nice hair parted to one side
+on the right and pinned above her left ear with a white artificial rose.
+Her maid had black coat and trousers. She had some bracelets on, but her
+jewels were less beautiful than those of the other women. One very
+pretty woman had buttons on her coat of emeralds surrounded with pearls,
+and on her arm a lovely bracelet of pearls. After tea, the great ladies
+went into an inner room, with the exception of two. One of these two had
+a very sad face. I watched her and finally had a chance to ask her how
+many children she had. She said she had none, but she would like to have
+a daughter. I was told after that her husband was a Christian pastor and
+she was trying to be Christian. The other one who stayed was the pretty
+one with the emerald buttons. I finally decided the ladies had left us
+to play their cards and asked if I might go and see them. They were not
+playing cards, but had just gone off to gossip among themselves,
+probably about the foreigners. One of the ladies said she would take me
+some day to see their card games. It is said they play in the morning
+and in the afternoon and all the night till the next morning when they
+go to bed. It is commonly said this is all they do, and the losses are
+very disastrous sometimes.
+
+But they were not playing then and came back, some of them with their
+children, and sat in the rows of chairs, sixteen of them, and some amahs
+around the room, while I talked to them. I told stories about what the
+American women did in the war and they stared with amazement. I had to
+explain what a gas mask is, but they knew what killing is and what high
+class is. Their giggles were quite encouraging to intercourse. A nice
+young lady from the college interpreted, and when I stopped I asked them
+to tell me something about their lives. So the governor's wife was at
+last persuaded to give an account of how she brought up her children.
+They are all free from self-consciousness, and though they have little
+manners in our sense of the word, they have a self-possession and
+gentleness combined which gives a very graceful appearance. The
+governor's wife says she has two little boys, the eldest six years of
+age. In the morning he has a Chinese tutor. After dinner, she teaches
+him music, of which she is very fond. After that he plays till
+five-thirty, has supper, plays again a little while before going to bed,
+and then bed. At thirteen the boy will be sent away to school. I asked
+her what about girls, and she said that her little niece was the first
+one in her family to be sent to school, but this ten-year-old one is in
+Tientsin at a boarding school.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, Sunday, June 1.
+
+
+We met a young man here from an interior province who is trying to get
+money for teachers who haven't received their pay for a long time.
+Meantime over sixty per cent of the entire national expenses is going to
+the military, and the army is worse than useless. In many provinces it
+is composed of brigands and everywhere is practically under the control
+of the tuchuns or military governors, who are corrupt and use the pay
+roll to increase their graft and the army to increase their power of
+local oppression, while the head military man is openly pro-Japanese.
+
+There is a lull in our affairs just now. We agreed yesterday that never
+in our lives had we begun to learn as much as in the last four months.
+And the last month particularly, there has been almost too much food to
+be digestible. Talk about the secretive and wily East. Compared, say,
+with Europe, they hand information out to you here on a platter (though
+it must be admitted the labels are sometimes mixed) and sandbag you with
+it.
+
+Yesterday we went to the Western Hills where are the things you see in
+the pictures, including the stone boat, the base of which is really
+marble and as fine as the pictures. But all the rest of it is just
+theatrical fake, more or less peeling off at that. However, it is as
+wonderful as it is cracked up to be, and in some ways more systematic
+than Versailles, which is what you naturally compare it to. The finest
+thing architecturally is a Buddhist temple with big tiles, each of which
+has a Buddha on--for further details see movie or something. We walked
+somewhat higher than Russian Hill, including a journey through the caves
+in an artificial mountain such as the Chinese delight in, clear up to
+this temple. The Manchu family seems to own the thing yet, and charge a
+big sum, or rather several sums, a la Niagara Falls, to get
+about--another evidence that China needs another revolution, or rather
+_a_ revolution, the first one having got rid of a dynasty and left, as
+per my previous letters, a lot of corrupt governors in charge of chaos.
+The only thing that I can see that keeps things together at all is that
+while a lot of these generals and governors would like to grab more for
+their individual selves, they are all afraid the whole thing would come
+down round their ears if anyone made a definite move. Status quo is
+China's middle name, mostly status and a little quo. I have one more
+national motto to add to "You Never Can Tell" and "Let George Do It." It
+is, "That is very bad." Instead of concealing things, they expose all
+their weak and bad points very freely, and after setting them forth most
+calmly and objectively, say "That is very bad." I don't know whether it
+is possible for a people to be too reasonable, but it is certainly too
+possible to take it out in being reasonable--and that's them. However,
+it makes them wonderful companions. You can hardly blame the Japanese
+for wanting to run them and supply the necessary pep when they decline
+to run themselves. You certainly see the other side of the famous
+one-track mind of Japan over here, as well as of other things. If you
+keep doing something all the time, I don't know whether you need even a
+single track mind. All you have to do is to keep going where you started
+for, while others keep wobbling or never get started.
+
+Well, this morning we went to the famous museum, and there is one thing
+where China is still ahead. It is housed in some of the old palaces and
+audience halls of the inner, or purple, forbidden City. With the yellow
+porcelain roofs, and the blue and green and gold, and the red walls, it
+is really the barbaric splendor you read about, and about the first
+thing that comes up to the conventional idea of what is Oriental. The
+Hindoo influence is much stronger here than anywhere else we have been,
+or else really Thibetan, I suppose, and many things remind one of the
+Moorish. The city of Peking was a thousand years building, and was laid
+out on a plan when the capitals of Europe were purely haphazard, so
+there is no doubt they have organizing power all right if they care to
+use it. The museum is literally one of treasures, porcelains, bronzes,
+jade, etc., not an historic or antiquated museum. It costs ten cents to
+get into the park here and much more into the museum, a dollar or more,
+I guess, and we got the impression that it was fear of the crowd and the
+populace rather than the money which controls; the rate is too high for
+revenue purposes.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 1.
+
+
+We have just seen a few hundred girls march away from the American Board
+Mission school to go to see the President to ask him to release the boy
+students who are in prison for making speeches on the street. To say
+that life in China is exciting is to put it fairly. We are witnessing
+the birth of a nation, and birth always comes hard. I may as well begin
+at the right end and tell you what has happened while things have been
+moving so fast I could not get time to write. Yesterday we went to see
+the temples of Western Hills, conducted by one of the members of the
+Ministry of Education. As we were running along the big street that
+passes the city wall we saw students speaking to groups of people. This
+was the first time the students had appeared for several days. We asked
+the official if they would not be arrested, and he said, "No, not if
+they keep within the law and do not make any trouble among the people."
+This morning when we got the paper it was full of nothing else. The
+worst thing is that the University has been turned into a prison with
+military tents all around it and a notice on the outside that this is a
+prison for students who disturb the peace by making speeches. As this is
+all illegal, it amounts to a military seizure of the University and
+therefore all the faculty will have to resign. They are to have a
+meeting this afternoon to discuss the matter. After that is over, we
+will probably know what has happened again. The other thing we heard was
+that in addition to the two hundred students locked up in the Law
+Building, two students were taken to the Police rooms and flogged on the
+back. Those two students were making a speech and were arrested and
+taken before the officers of the gendarmerie. Instead of shutting up as
+they were expected to do, the boys asked some questions of these
+officers that were embarrassing to answer. The officers then had them
+flogged on the back. Thus far no one has been able to see any of the
+officers. If the officers denied the accusation then the reporters would
+ask to see the two prisoners on the principle that the officers could
+have no reason for refusing that request unless the story were true. We
+saw students making speeches this morning about eleven, when we started
+to look for houses, and heard later that they had been arrested, that
+they carried tooth brushes and towels in their pockets. Some stories say
+that not two hundred but a thousand have been arrested. There are about
+ten thousand striking in Peking alone. The marching out of those girls
+was evidently a shock to their teachers and many mothers were there to
+see them off. The girls were going to walk to the palace of the
+President, which is some long distance from the school. If he does not
+see them, they will remain standing outside all night and they will stay
+there till he does see them. I fancy people will take them food. We
+heard the imprisoned students got bedding at four this morning but no
+food till after that time. There is water in the building and there is
+room for them to lie on the floor. They are cleaner than they would be
+in jail, and of course much happier for being together.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 2.
+
+
+Maybe you would like to know a little about how we look this morning and
+how we are living. In the first place, this is a big hotel with a bath
+in each room. On a big street opposite to us is the wall of the legation
+quarter, which has trees in it and big roofs which represent all that
+China ought to have and has not. The weather is like our hot July,
+except that it is drier than the August drought on Long Island. The
+streets of Peking are the widest in the world, I guess, and ours leads
+by the red walls of the Chinese city with the wonderful gates of which
+you see pictures. It is macadamized in the middle, but on each side of
+it run wider roads, which are used for the traffic. Thank your stars
+there are good horses in Peking; men do not pull all the heavy loads.
+The two side roads are worn down in deep ruts and these ruts are filled
+with dust like finest ashes, and all thrown up into the air whenever a
+man steps on it or a cart moves through. Our room faces the south on
+this road. All day long the sun pours through the bamboo shades and the
+hot air brings in that gray dust, and everything you touch, including
+your own skin, is gritty and has a queer dry feeling that makes you
+think you ought to run for water. I am learning to shut the windows and
+inner blinds afternoons. Isn't it strange that in the latitude of New
+York this drought should be expected every spring? In spite of all this
+the fields have crops growing, thinly, to be sure, on the hard gray
+fields. There are very few trees, and they are not of the biggest. The
+grain is already about fit to cut, and the onions are ripe. After a
+while it will rain and rain much and then new crops will be put in. The
+flowers are almost gone and I am sorry that we did not see the famous
+peonies. You will be interested to know that they keep the peonies
+small; even the tree kind are cut down till they are the size of those
+little ones of mine. The tuber peonies are transplanted each year or in
+some way kept small and the blossoms are lovely and little. I have seen
+white rose peonies and at first thought they were roses. The buds look
+almost like the buds of our big white roses and they are very fragrant.
+The peony beds are laid out in terraces held in place by brick walls,
+usually oblong or oval, something like a huge pudding mold on a table.
+Other times they are planted on the flat and surrounded by bamboo fences
+of fancy design and geometrical pattern, usually with a square form to
+include each division. The inner city has many peony beds of that sort,
+both the tree and tuber kind, but they have only leaves to show now.
+
+Yesterday we went to the summer palace and to-day we are going to the
+museum. That is really inside the Forbidden City, so at last we shall
+set foot on the sacred ground. The summer palace is really wonderful,
+but sad now, like all things made on too ambitious a scale to fit into
+the uses of life. There is a mile of loggia ornamented with the green
+and blue and red paintings which you see imitated. Through a window we
+had a peek at the famous portrait of old Tsu Hsu and she looks just as
+she did when I saw it exhibited in New York. The strange thing about it
+is that it is still owned by the Hsu family. Huge rolls of costly rugs
+and curtains lie in piles round the room and everything is covered with
+this fine dust so thick that it is not possible to tell the color of a
+table top. Cloissonne vases, or rather images of the famous blue ware
+stand under the old lady's portrait, and everything is going to rack and
+ruin. Meantime we wandered around, planning how it could be made over
+into use when the revolution comes. Get rid of the idea that China has
+had a revolution and is a republic; that point is just where we have
+been deceived in the United States. China is at present the rotten
+crumbling remnant of the old bureaucracy that surrounded the corruption
+of the Manchus and that made them possible. The little Emperor is living
+here in his palace surrounded by his eunuchs and his tutors and his two
+mothers. He is fourteen and it is really funny to think that they have
+just left him Emperor, but as he has not money except what the republic
+votes him from year to year, nobody worries about him, unless it is the
+Japanese, who want the imperial government restored until they get ready
+to take it themselves. It looks as if they might be ready now except for
+the nudge which has just been given to the peace conference. You had
+better read a book about this situation, for it is the most surprising
+affair in a lifetime.
+
+Yesterday we went to see a friend's house. It is interesting and I
+should like to live in one like it. There is no water except what the
+water man brings every day. This little house has eighteen rooms around
+a court. It means four separate roofs and going outdoors to get from one
+to another. When the mercury is at twenty below zero it would mean that
+just the same. All the ground floors have stone floors. We did not see
+all the rooms; there are paper windows in some and glass windows in
+some. In summer they put on a temporary roof of mats over the court. It
+is higher than the roofs and so allows ventilation and gives good shade.
+
+
+
+
+June 5.
+
+
+This is Thursday morning, and last night we heard that about one
+thousand students were arrested the day before. Yesterday afternoon a
+friend got a pass which permitted him to enter the building where the
+students were confined. They have filled up the building of Law, and
+have begun on the Science building, in consequence of which the faculty
+have to go to the Missionary buildings to-day to hold their faculty
+meeting. At four yesterday afternoon, the prisoners who had been put in
+that day at ten had had no food. One of our friends went out and got the
+University to appropriate some money and they ordered a carload of bread
+sent in. This bread means some little biscuit sometimes called raised
+biscuit at home. I think carload means one of the carts in which they
+are delivered. At any rate, the boys had some food, though not at the
+expense of the police. On the whole, the checkmate of the police seems
+surely impending. They will soon have the buildings full, as the
+students are getting more and more in earnest, and the most incredible
+part of it is that the police are surprised. They really thought the
+arrests would frighten the others from going on. So everybody is getting
+an education. This morning one of our friends here is going to take us
+up to the University to see the military encampment, and I hope he will
+take us inside also, though I hardly think he will do the latter.
+
+As near as I can find out, the Chinese have reached that interesting
+stage of development when they must do something for women and do as
+little as they can, but in case they must have a girls' school they find
+that a convenient place to unload an antiquated official who really
+can't be endured any longer by real folks.
+
+No one can tell to-day what the students' strike will bring next; it may
+bring a revolution, it may do anything surprising to the police, who
+seem to be as lacking in imagination as police are famous for being.
+Everyone here is getting ready to flee for the summer, which is very hot
+during July. On the whole, the heat is perhaps less hard to endure than
+the heat of New York, as it is so dry. But the dryness has its own
+effect and when those hard winds blow up the dust storms it gets on the
+nerves. Dust heaps up inside the house, and cuts the skin both inside
+and outside of the body. This is a lucky day, being cloudy and a little
+damp as if it might rain.
+
+The Western Hill was an experience to remember. Stepping from a Ford
+limousine to a chair carried by four men and an outwalker alongside, we
+were thus taken by fifteen men to the temples, your father, an officer
+from the Department of Education, and I. The men walked over the paths
+in the dust and on stones which no one thinks of picking up. It was so
+astounding to call it a pleasure resort that we could only stare and
+remain dumb. We saw three temples and one royal garden. Five hundred
+Buddhas in one building, and all the buildings tumble-down and dirty. On
+top of one hill is a huge building which cost a million or more to build
+about four hundred years ago by someone for his tomb. Then he did
+something wrong, probably stole from the wrong person, and was not
+allowed to be buried there. Round the temple places the trees remain and
+give a refreshing oasis, and there are some beautiful springs. All the
+time we kept saying, "Trees ought to be planted." "Yes, but they take so
+long to grow," or, "Yes, but they will not grow, it is so dry," etc.
+Sometimes they would say, "Yes, we must plant some trees," or more
+likely, "Yes, I think we may plant some trees sometime, but we have an
+Arbor Day and the people cut down the trees or else they did." We would
+show that the trees would grow because they were there round the
+temples, and besides grass was growing and trees would grow where grass
+would grow in such dry weather, and they would say the same things over.
+It made the little forestry station in Nanking seem like a monumental
+advance, while that fearful sun was beating up the dust under the stones
+as the men gave us the Swedish massage in the motion of the chairs.
+Fifty men and more stood around as we got in and out of the car and five
+men apiece stood and waited for us as we walked round the temple and ate
+our lunch and spent the time sipping tea, and yet they cannot plant
+trees, and that is China.
+
+The whole country is covered every inch with stones. Nature has supplied
+them, and falling walls are everywhere. We saw one great thing, however.
+They are building a new school house and orphanage for the children of
+that village. Many of the children are naked everywhere hereabouts and
+they stand with sunburned heads, their backs covered only with coats of
+dirt, eating their bean food in the street. Everywhere the food is laid
+out on tables by the roadside ready to eat. In one temple, a certain
+official here has promised to rebuild a small shrine which houses the
+laughing Buddha, who is made of bronze and was once covered with
+lacquer, which is now mostly split off. At present the only shade the
+god has is a roof of mats which they have braced up on the pile of ruins
+that once made a roof. The President of the Republic has built a lovely
+big gate like the old ones, because it is propitious and would bring him
+good fortune. But he has decided it was not propitious, something went
+wrong with the gods, I did not learn what it was; anyway, he is now
+tearing down one of the big buttresses on one side of it to see if fate
+will treat him more kindly then. Just what he wants of fate I did not
+learn either, but perhaps it is that fate should make him Emperor, as
+that seems to be their idea of curing poverty and political evils. I
+forgot to say that they never remove ruins; everything is left to lie as
+it falls or is falling, so one gets a good idea of how gods are
+constructed. Most of them were of clay, a sort of concrete built up on a
+wood frame, and badly as they need wood I have never seen a sign of
+piling up the fallen beams of a temple. Instead of that, you risk your
+life by walking under these falling roofs unless you have the sense to
+look after your own safety. In most of these Peking temples they do
+sweep the floors and even some of the statues look as if they had some
+time been dusted, though this last I am not certain about.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 5.
+
+
+As has been remarked before, you never can tell. The students were
+stirred up by orders dissolving their associations, and by the
+"mandates" criticising the Japanese boycott and telling what valuable
+services the two men whose dismissal was demanded had rendered the
+country. So they got busy--the students. They were also angered because
+the industrial departments of two schools were ordered closed by the
+police. In these departments the students had set about seeing what
+things of Japanese importation could be replaced by hand labor without
+waiting for capital. After they worked it out in the school they went
+out to the shops and taught the people how to make them, and then
+peddled them about, making speeches at the same time. Well, yesterday
+when we went about we noticed that the students were speaking more than
+usual, and while the streets were full of soldiers the students were not
+interfered with; in the afternoon a procession of about a thousand
+students was even escorted by the police. Then in the evening a
+telephone came from the University that the tents around the University
+buildings where the students were imprisoned had been struck and the
+soldiers were all leaving. Then the students inside held a meeting and
+passed a resolution asking the government whether they were guaranteed
+freedom of speech, because if they were not, they would not leave the
+building merely to be arrested again, as they planned to go on speaking.
+So they embarrassed the government by remaining in "jail" all night. We
+haven't heard to-day what has happened, but the streets are free of
+soldiers, and there were no students talking anywhere we went, so I
+fancy a truce has been arranged while they try and fix things up. The
+government's ignominious surrender was partly due to the fact that the
+places of detention were getting full and about twice as many students
+spoke yesterday as the day before, when they arrested a thousand, and
+the government for the first time realized that they couldn't bulldoze
+the students; it was also partly due to the fact that the merchants in
+Shanghai struck the day before yesterday, and there is talk that the
+Peking merchants are organizing for the same purpose. This is, once
+more, a strange country; the so-called republic is a joke; all it has
+meant so far is that instead of the Emperor having a steady job, the job
+of ruling and looting is passed around to the clique that grabs power.
+One of the leading militarist party generals invited his dearest enemy
+to breakfast a while ago--within the last few months--in Peking, and
+then lined his guest against the wall and had him shot. Did this affect
+his status? He is still doing business at the old stand. But in some
+ways there is more democracy than we have; leaving out the women, there
+is complete social equality, and while the legislature is a perfect
+farce, public opinion, when it does express itself, as at the present
+time, has remarkable influence. Some think the worst officials will now
+resign and get out, others that the militarists will attempt a coup
+d'etat and seize still more power rather than back down. Fortunately,
+the latter seem to be divided at the present time. But all of the
+student (and teacher) crowd are much afraid that even if the present
+gang is thrown out, it will be only to replace them by another set just
+as bad, so they are refraining from appealing to the army for help.
+
+Later.--The students have now asked that the chief of police come
+personally to escort them out and make an apology. In many ways, it
+seems like an opera bouffe, but there is no doubt that up to date they
+have shown more shrewdness and policy than the government, and are
+getting the latter where it is a laughing stock, which is fatal in
+China. But the government isn't inactive; they have appointed a new
+Minister of Education and a new Chancellor of the University, both
+respectable men, with no records and colorless characters. It is likely
+the Faculty will decline to receive the new Chancellor unless he makes a
+satisfactory declaration--which he obviously can't, and thus the row
+will begin all over again, with the Faculty involved. If the government
+dared, it would dissolve the University, but the scholar has a sacred
+reputation in China.
+
+
+
+
+June 7.
+
+
+The whole story of the students is funny and not the least funny part is
+that last Friday the students were speaking and parading with banners
+and cheers and the police standing near them like guardian angels, no
+one being arrested or molested. We heard that one student pouring out
+hot eloquence was respectfully requested to move his audience along a
+little for the reason that they were so numerous in statu quo as to
+impede traffic, and the policeman would not like to be held responsible
+for interfering with the traffic. Meantime, Saturday the government sent
+an apology to the students who were still in prison of their own free
+will waiting for the government to apologize and to give them the
+assurance of free speech, etc. The students are said to have left the
+building yesterday morning, though we have no accurate information. The
+Faculty of the University met and refused to recognize or accept the new
+Chancellor. They sent a committee to the government to tell them that,
+and one to the Chancellor to tell him also and to ask him to resign. It
+seems the newly-appointed Chancellor used to be at the head of the
+engineering school of the University, but he was kicked out in the
+political struggle. He is an official of the Yuan Shi Kai school and has
+become a rich rubber merchant in Malay, and anyway they do not want a
+mere rubber merchant as President of the University, and they think they
+may so explain that to the new Chancellor that he will not look upon the
+office as so attractive as he thought it was.
+
+There is complete segregation in this city in all public gatherings, the
+women at the theaters are put off in one of those real galleries such as
+we think used to be and are not now. The place for the women in the hall
+of the Board of Education is good enough and on one side facing the hall
+so that all the men can look at them freely and so protect that famous
+modesty which I have heard more of in China than for many years
+previously.
+
+Gasoline is one dollar a gallon here and a Ford car costs $1900. Ivory
+soap five for one dollar. Clean your dress for $2.50. Tooth paste one
+dollar a tube, vaseline 50 cents a small bottle. Washing three cents
+each, including dresses and men's coats and shirts; fine cook ten
+dollars a month. They have a very good one here, and I am going right on
+getting fat on delicious Chinese food. The new Rockefeller Institute,
+called the Union Medical College, is very near here, and they are making
+beautiful buildings in the old Chinese style, to say nothing of their
+Hygiene. They have just decided to open it to women, but I am rather
+suspicious the requirements will prevent the women's using it at first.
+
+Peking is still much of a capital city and is divided into the diplomats
+and the missionaries. It seems there is not much lacking except the old
+Dowager Empress to make up the old Peking.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 10.
+
+
+The students have taken the trick and won the game at the present
+moment--I decline to predict the morrow when it comes to China. Sunday
+morning I lectured at the auditorium of the Board of Education and at
+that time the officials there didn't know what had happened. But the
+government sent what is called a pacification delegate to the
+self-imprisoned students to say that the government recognized that it
+had made a mistake and apologized. Consequently the students marched
+triumphantly out, and yesterday their street meetings were bigger and
+more enthusiastic than ever. The day before they had hooted at four
+unofficial delegates who had asked them to please come out of jail, but
+who hadn't apologized. But the biggest victory is that it is now
+reported that the government will to-day issue a mandate dismissing the
+three men who are always called traitors--yesterday they had got to the
+point of offering to dismiss one, the one whose house was attacked by
+the students on the fourth of May, but they were told that that wouldn't
+be enough, so now they have surrendered still more. Whether this will
+satisfy the striking merchants or whether they will make further
+demands, having won the first round, doesn't yet appear. There are lots
+of rumors, of course. One is that the backdown is not only due to the
+strike of merchants, but to a fear that the soldiers could no longer be
+counted upon. There was even a rumor that a regiment at Western Hills
+was going to start for Peking to side with the students. Rumors are one
+of China's strong suits. When you realize that we have been here less
+than six weeks, you will have to admit that we have been seeing life.
+For a country that is regarded at home as stagnant and unchanging, there
+is certainly something doing.
+
+This is the world's greatest kaleidoscope.
+
+Wilson's Decoration Day Address has just been published; perhaps it
+sounds academic at home, but over here Chinese at least regard it as
+very practical--as, in fact, a definite threat. On the other hand, we
+continue to get tales of how the Washington State Department has
+declined to take the reports sent from here as authentic. Lately they
+have had a number of special agents over here, more or less secret, to
+get independent information.
+
+In talking about democratic developments in America, whenever I make a
+remark such as the Americans do not depend upon the government to do
+things for them, but go ahead and do things for themselves, the response
+is immediate and emphatic. The Chinese are socially a very democratic
+people and their centralized government bores them.
+
+
+
+
+June 16.
+
+
+Chinesewise speaking, we are now having another lull. The three
+"traitors" have had their resignations accepted, the cabinet is
+undergoing reconstruction, the strike has been called off, both of
+students and merchants (the railwaymen striking was the last straw), and
+the mystery is what will happen next. There are evidences that the
+extreme militarists are spitting on their hands to take hold in spite of
+their defeat, and also that the President, who is said to be a moderate
+and skillful politician, is nursing things along to get matters more and
+more into his own hands. Although he issued a mandate against the
+students and commending the traitors, the students' victory seems to
+have strengthened him. I can't figure it out, but it is part of the
+general beginning to read at the back of the book. The idea seems to be
+that he has demonstrated the weakness of the militarists in the country,
+while in sticking in form by them he has given them no excuse for
+attacking him. They are attacking most everybody else in anonymous
+circulars. One was got out signed "Thirteen hundred and fifty-eight
+students," but giving no names, saying that the sole object of the
+strike was to regain Tsingtao, but that a few men had tried to turn the
+movement to their own ends, one wishing to be Chancellor of the
+University.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 20.
+
+
+Some time ago I had decided to tell you that here I had found the human
+duplication of the bee colony in actual working order. China is it, and
+in all particulars lives up to the perfect socialization of the race.
+Nobody can do anything alone, nobody can do anything in a hurry. The
+hunt of the bee for her cell goes on before one's eyes all the time.
+When found, lo, the discovery that the cell was there all the time. Let
+me give you an example.
+
+We go to the art school for lectures, enter by a door at the end of a
+long hall. Behind that hall is another large room and in back of the
+second room somewhere is a place where the men make the tea. Near the
+front door where we enter is the table where we are always asked to sit
+down before and after the lecture, whereat we sit down to partake of tea
+and other beverages, such as soda. Well, the teacups are kept in a
+cabinet at the front end of the first room right near the entrance door.
+Comes a grown man from the rear somewhere; silently and with stately
+tread he walks across the long room to the cabinet, takes one teacup in
+each hand and retreads the space towards the back. After sufficient time
+he returns bearing in his two hands these cups filled with hot tea. He
+puts these down on the table for us and then he takes two more cups from
+the cabinet, and retires once more, returning later as before. When
+bottles are opened they are brought near the table, because otherwise
+the soda would be spoiled in carrying open, never to save steps.
+
+The Chinese kitchen is always several feet from the dining room, under a
+separate roof. Often you must cross a court in the open to get from one
+to another. As it has not rained since we have been here, I do not know
+what happens to the soup under the umbrella. But remember, the beehive
+is the thing in China, and it is the old-fashioned beehive in the
+barrel. When you look at the men who are doing it all they have the air
+of strong, quiet beings who might do almost anything, but when you get
+acquainted with them, how they do almost nothing is a marvelous
+achievement. At Ching Hua College, said being the famous Boxer Indemnity
+College, the houses are new and built by American initiative, and the
+kitchen is forty feet from the dining room door in those. I will not
+describe the kitchens, but when you see the clay stoves crumbling in
+places, no sink, and one window on one side of the rather dark room, a
+little room where the cook sleeps on a board and where both the men eat
+their own frugal meals, it is all the Middle Ages undisturbed.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 20.
+
+
+Last weekend we went out about ten miles to Ching Hua College; this is
+the institution started with the returned Boxer Indemnity Fund; it's a
+high school with about two years college work; they have just graduated
+sixty or seventy who are going to America next year to finish up. They
+go all around, largely to small colleges and the Middle West state
+institutions, a good many to Tech and a number to Stevens, though none
+go to Columbia, because it is in a big city; just what improvement
+Hoboken is I don't know. China is full of Columbia men, but they went
+there for graduate work. No doubt it is wise keeping them away from a
+big city at first. Except for the instruction in Chinese, the teaching
+is all done in English, and the boys seem to speak English quite well
+already. It's a shame the way they will be treated, the insults they
+will have to put up with in America before they get really adjusted. And
+then when they get back here they have even a worse time getting
+readjusted. They have been idealizing their native land at the same time
+that they have got Americanized without knowing it, and they have a hard
+time to get a job to make a living. They have been told that they are
+the future saviors of their country and then their country doesn't want
+them for anything at all--and they can't help making comparisons and
+realizing the backwardness of China and its awful problems. At the same
+time at the bottom of his heart probably every Chinese is convinced of
+the superiority of Chinese civilization--and maybe they are right--three
+thousand years is quite a spell to hold on.
+
+You may come over here some time in your life, so it will do no harm to
+learn about the money--_about_ it, nobody but the Chinese bankers ever
+learn it. There are eleven dimes in a dollar and six twenty-cent pieces,
+and while there are only eleven coppers in a dime, there are one hundred
+and thirty-eight in a dollar. Consequently the thrifty always carry a
+pound or two of big coppers with them to pay 'ricksha men with. Then
+there are various kinds of paper money. We are going to Western Hills
+tomorrow night, and under instructions I bought some dollars at
+sixty-five cents apiece which are good for a whole dollar on this
+railway and apparently nowhere else. On the contrary, the foreigners are
+done all the time at the hotels; there they only give you five
+twenty-cent pieces in change for a dollar, and so on--but they are run
+by foreigners, and not by the wily Chinese. One thing you will be glad
+to know is that Peking is Americanized to the extent that we have ice
+cream at least once a day, two big helpings. This helps.
+
+A word to the wise. Never ask a Chinese whether it is going to rain, or
+any other question about the coming weather. The turtle is supposed to
+be a weather prophet, and as the turtle is regarded as the vilest
+creature on earth, you can see what an insult such a question is. One of
+their subtle compliments to the Japanese during the late campaign was to
+take a straw hat, of Japanese make, which they had removed from a
+passerby's head, and cut it into the likeness of a turtle and then nail
+it up on a telephone post.
+
+I find, by the way, that I didn't do the students justice when I
+compared their first demonstration here to a college boys' roughhouse;
+the whole thing was planned carefully, it seems, and was even pulled off
+earlier than would otherwise have been the case, because one of the
+political parties was going to demonstrate soon, and they were afraid
+their movement (coming at the same time) would make it look as if they
+were an agency of the political faction, and they wanted to act
+independently as students. To think of kids in our country from fourteen
+on, taking the lead in starting a big cleanup reform politics movement
+and shaming merchants and professional men into joining them. This is
+sure some country.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 23.
+
+
+Last night we had a lovely dinner at the house of a Chinese official.
+All the guests were men except me and the fourteen-year-old daughter of
+the house. She was educated in an English school here and speaks
+beautiful English, besides being a talented and interesting girl.
+Chinese girls at her age seem older than ours. The family consists of
+five children and two wives. I found the reason the daughter was hostess
+was that it was embarrassing to choose between the two wives for hostess
+and they didn't want to give us a bad impression, so no wife appeared.
+We were given to understand that the reason for the non-appearance was
+that mother was sick. There is a new little baby six weeks old. The
+father is a delicate, refined little man, very proud of his children and
+fond of them, and they were all brought out to see us, even the six
+weeks older, who was very hot in a little red dress. Our host is the
+leader of a party of liberal progressives, and also an art collector. We
+had hopes he would show us his collection of things. He did not, except
+for the lovely porcelain that was on the table. The house is big and
+behind the wall of the Purple City, as they call the old Forbidden City,
+and it looks on the famous old pagoda, so it was interesting. We sat in
+the court for coffee and there seemed to be many more courts leading on
+one behind another as they do here, sometimes fourteen or more, with
+chains of houses around each one.
+
+As for the dinner, I forgot to say that the cook is a remarkable man,
+Fukien, who gave us the most delicious Chinese cookery with French names
+attached on the menu. Cooking is apt to be named geographically here.
+Most everyone in Peking came from somewhere else, just as should be in a
+capital city. But they seem to keep the cooks and cook in accordance
+with the predilections of the old home province. They have adopted ice
+cream, showing the natural sense of the race, but the daughter of our
+host told me that they do not give it to the sick, as they still have
+the idea that the sick should have nothing cold.
+
+They are now thrashing the wheat in this locality. That consists of
+cutting it with the sickle and having the women and children glean. The
+main crop is scattered on the floor, as it is called, being a hard piece
+of ground near the house, and then the wheat is treaded out by a pair of
+donkeys attached to a roller about as big as our garden roller. After it
+is out of the husk, it is winnowed by being tossed in the breeze, which
+takes the time of a number of people and leaves in a share of the mother
+earth. The crops are very thin round this region and they say that they
+are thinner than usual, as this is a drier year than usual. Corn is
+small, but there is some growing between here and the hills where we
+went, always in the little pieces of ground, of course. Peanuts and
+sweet potatoes are planted now, and they seem to be growing well in the
+dust, which has been wet by the recent day of rain.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 25.
+
+
+Simple facts for home consumption. All boards in China are sawed by
+hand--two men and a saw, like a cross-cut buck-saw. At the new Hotel de
+Peking, a big building, instead of carrying window casings ready to put
+in, they are carrying big logs cut the proper length for a casing.
+Spitting is a common accomplishment. When a school girl wants excuse to
+leave her seat she walks across the room and spits vigorously in the
+spittoon. Little melons are now ready to eat. They come like ripe
+cucumbers, small, rather sweet. Coolies and boys eat them, skins and
+all, on the street. Children eat small green apples. Peaches are
+expensive, but those who can get the green hard ones eat them raw. The
+potted pomegranates are now in bloom and also in fruit in the pots. The
+color is a wonderful scarlet. The lotus ponds are in bloom--wonderful
+color in a deep rose. When the buds are nearly ready to open they look
+as if they were about to explode and fill the air with their intense
+color. The huge leaves are brilliant and lovely--light green and
+delicately veined. But the lotus was never made for art, and only
+religion could have made it acceptable to art. The sacred ponds are well
+kept and are in the old moats of the Purple City--Forbidden. There are
+twice as many men in Peking as women.
+
+Sunday we went to a Chinese wedding. It was at the Naval Club--no
+difference in appearance from our ceremony. Bride and groom both in the
+conventional foreign dress. They had a ring. At the supper there were
+six tables full of men, and three partly full of women and children.
+Women take their children and their amahs everywhere in China--I mean
+wherever they go and provided they want to; it is the custom. None of
+the men spoke to the women at the wedding--except rare returned
+students. Eggs cost $1.00 for 120--we get all we want in our boarding
+house. Men take birds out for walks--either in cages or with one leg
+tied to a string attached to a stick on which the bird perches.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, June 27.
+
+
+It's a wonder we were ever let out of Japan at all. It's fatal; I could
+now tell after reading ten lines of the writings of any traveler whether
+he ever journeyed beyond a certain point. You have to hand it to the
+Japanese. Their country is beautiful, their treatment of visitors is
+beautiful, and they have the most artistic knack of making the visible
+side of everything beautiful, or at least attractive. Deliberate deceit
+couldn't be one-tenth as effective; it's a real gift of art. They are
+the greatest manipulators of the outside of things that ever lived. I
+realized when I was there that they were a nation of specialists, but I
+didn't realize that foreign affairs and diplomacy were also such a
+specialized art.
+
+The new acting Minister of Education has invited us to dinner soon. This
+man doesn't appear to have any past educational record, but he has
+pursued a conciliatory course; the other one resigned and disappeared
+when he found he couldn't control things. The really liberal element
+does not appear to be strong enough at present to influence politics
+practically. The struggle is between the extreme militarists, who are
+said to be under Japanese influence, and the group of somewhat colorless
+moderates headed by the President. As he gets a chance he appears to be
+putting his men in. The immediate gain seems to be negative in keeping
+the other crowd out instead of positive, but they are at least honest
+and will probably respond when there is enough organized liberal
+pressure brought to bear upon them.
+
+It cannot be denied that it is hot here. Yesterday we went out in
+'rickshas about the middle of the day and I don't believe I ever felt
+such heat. It is like the Yosemite, only considerably more intense as
+well as for longer periods of time. The only consolation one gets from
+noting that it isn't humid is that if it were, one couldn't live at all.
+But the desert sands aren't moist either. Your mother asked the coolie
+why he didn't wear a hat, and he said because it was too hot. Think of
+pulling a person at the rate of five or six miles an hour in the sun of
+a hundred and twenty or thirty with your head exposed. Most of the
+coolies who work in the sun have nothing on their heads. It's either
+survival of the fittest or inheritance of acquired characteristics.
+Their adaptation to every kind of physical discomfort is certainly one
+of the wonders of the world. You ought to see the places where they lie
+down to go to sleep. They have it all over Napoleon. This is also the
+country of itinerant domesticity. I doubt if lots of the 'ricksha men
+have any places to sleep except in their carts. And a large part of the
+population must buy their food of the street pedlars, who sell every
+conceivable cooked thing; then there are lots of cooked food stores
+besides the street men.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 2.
+
+
+The rainy season has set in, and now we have floods and also coolness,
+the temperature having fallen from the late nineties to the early
+seventies, and life seems more worth living again.
+
+This is a great country for pictures, and I am most anxious for one of a
+middle-aged Chinese, inclining to be fat, with a broad-brimmed straw
+hat, sitting on the back of a very small and placid cream colored
+donkey. He is fanning himself as the donkey moves imperceptibly along
+the highway, is satisfied with himself and at ease with the world, and
+everything in the world, whatever happens. This would be a good
+frontispiece for a book on China--and the joke wouldn't all be on the
+Chinese either.
+
+To-day the report is that the Chinese delegates refused to sign the
+Paris treaty; the news seems too good to be true, but nobody can learn
+the facts. There are also rumors that the governmental military party,
+having got everything almost out of Japan that is coming to them and
+finding themselves on the unpopular side, are about to forget that they
+ever knew the Japanese and to come out very patriotic. This is also
+unconfirmed, but I suppose the only reason they would stay bought in any
+case is that there are no other bidders in the market.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, Wednesday, July 2.
+
+
+The anxiety here is tense. The report is that the delegates did not
+sign, but so vaguely worded as to leave conjectures and no confirmation.
+Meanwhile the students' organizations, etc., have begun another attack
+against the government by demanding the dissolution of Parliament.
+Meantime there is no cabinet and the President can get no one to form
+one, and half those inside seem to be also on the strike because the
+other half are there.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 4.
+
+
+We are going out to the Higher Normal this morning. The head of the
+industrial department is going to take us. The students are erecting
+three new school buildings this summer--they made the plans, designs,
+details, and are supervising the erection as well as doing the routine
+carpenter work. The head of the industrial department, who acted as our
+guide and host, has been organizing the "national industry" activity in
+connection with the students' agitation. He is now, among other things,
+trying to organize apprentice schools under guild control. The idea is
+to take the brightest apprentice available in each "factory"--really, of
+course, just a household group--and give them two hours' schooling a day
+with a view to introducing new methods and new products into the
+industry. They are going to take metal working here. Then he hopes it
+will spread all over China. You cannot imagine the industrial
+backwardness here, not only as compared with us but with Japan.
+Consequently their markets here are flooded with cheap flimsy Japan-made
+stuff, which they buy because it's cheap, the line of least resistance.
+But perhaps the Shantung business will be worth its cost. The cotton
+guild is very anxious to co-operate and they will supply capital if the
+schools can guarantee skilled workingmen, especially superintendents.
+Now they sell four million worth of cotton to Japan, where it is spun,
+and then buy back the same cotton in thread for fourteen million--which
+they weave. This is beside the large amount of woven cotton goods they
+import.
+
+I find in reading books that the Awakening of China has been announced a
+dozen or more times by foreign travelers in the last ten years, so I
+hesitate to announce it again, but I think this is the first time the
+merchants and guilds have really been actively stirred to try to improve
+industrial methods. And if so, it _is_ a real awakening--that and the
+combination with the students. I read the translations from Japanese
+every few days, and it would be very interesting to know whether their
+ignorance is real or assumed. Probably some of both--it is inconceivable
+that they should be as poor judges of Chinese psychology as the articles
+indicate. But at the same time they have to keep up a certain tone of
+belief among the people at home--namely, that the Chinese really prefer
+the Japanese to all other foreigners; for they realize their dependence
+upon them, and if they do not make common cause with them it is because
+foreigners, chiefly Americans, instigate it all from mercenary and
+political motives. As a matter of fact, I doubt if history knows of any
+such complete case of national dislike and distrust; it sometimes seems
+as if there hadn't been a single thing that the Japanese might have done
+to alienate the Chinese that they haven't tried. The Chinese would feel
+pretty sore at America for inviting them into the war and then leaving
+them in the lurch, if the Japanese papers and politicians hadn't spent
+all their time the last three months abusing America--then their sweet
+speeches in America. It will be interesting to watch and see just what
+particular string they trip on finally.
+
+It's getting to the end of an Imperfect Day. We saw the school as per
+program and I find I made a mistake. The boys made the plans of the
+three buildings and are supervising their erection, but not doing the
+building. They are staying in school all summer, however--those in the
+woodworking class--and have taken a contract for making all the desks
+for the new buildings--the school gives them room and board (food and
+its preparation costs about five dollars per month), and they
+practically give their time. All the metal-working boys are staying in
+Peking and working in the shops to improve and diversify the products.
+Remember these are boys, eighteen to twenty, and that they are carrying
+on their propaganda for their country; that the summer averages one
+hundred in the shade in Peking, and you'll admit there is some stuff
+here.
+
+This P.M. we went to a piece of the celebration. The piece we saw wasn't
+so very Fourth of Julyish, but it was interesting--Chinese sleight of
+hand. Their long robe is an advantage, but none the less it can't be so
+very easy to move about with a very large sized punch bowl filled to the
+brim with water, or with five glass bowls each with a gold fish in it,
+ready to bring out. It seems that sometimes the artist turns a
+somersault just as he brings out the big bowl of water, but we didn't
+get that. None of the tricks were complicated, but they were the neatest
+I ever saw. There is a home-made minstrel show to-night, but it rained,
+and as the show (and dance later) are in the open, we aren't going, as
+we intended.
+
+You can't imagine what it means here for China not to have signed. The
+entire government has been for it--the President up to ten days before
+the signing said it was necessary. It was a victory for public opinion,
+and all set going by these little schoolboys and girls. Certainly the
+United States ought to be ashamed when China can do a thing of this
+sort.
+
+
+
+
+Sunday, July 7.
+
+
+We had quite another ride yesterday, sixty or seventy miles altogether.
+The reason for the macadam road is worth telling. When Yuan Shi Kai was
+planning to be Emperor his son broke his leg, and he heard the hot
+springs would be good for him. So one of the officials made a road to
+it. Some of the present day officials, including an ex-official who was
+recently forced to resign after being beaten up, now own the springs and
+hotel, so the road will continue to be taken care of. On the way we went
+through the village of the White Snake and also of the One Hundred
+Virtues.
+
+Y. M. C. A.'s and Red Crossers are still coming from Siberia on their
+way home. I don't know whether they will talk freely when they get home.
+It is one mess, and the stories they will tell won't improve our foreign
+relations any. The Bolsheviki aren't the only ones that shoot up
+villages and take the loot--so far the Americans haven't done it.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 8.
+
+
+This morning the papers here reported the denial of Japan that she had
+made a secret treaty with Germany. The opinion here seems to be that
+they did not, but merely that preliminaries had begun with reference to
+such a treaty. We heard at dinner the other day from responsible
+American officials here that, after America had completed the last of
+the arrangements for China to go into the war, the Japanese arranged to
+get a concession from Russia for the delivery on the part of the
+Japanese of China into the war on the side of the Allies.
+
+Well, the Japanese are still at it with the cat out of the bag. It looks
+now as if they are getting ready to break up the present government in
+Japan. This is interpreted to mean that that breakup will be made to
+look as if it were in disapproval of the present mistakes in diplomacy
+and of the price of rice; and then they can put in a worse one there and
+the world will not know the difference, but will be made to think that
+Japan is reforming. Speaking of constitutionality in Japan, I ceased to
+worry about that as soon as I learned the older statesmen never troubled
+at all about who was elected, but just let the elections go through, as
+their business was so assured in other ways that the elections made no
+difference anyway, and that the same principle worked equally well in
+the matter of passing bills. No bill can ever come up without the
+approval of the powers that be and they know how it is coming out in
+spite of all discussions. No wonder change comes slowly and maybe it
+will have to come all at once in the form of a revolution if it comes in
+reality. It is now reported that Tsai, the Chancellor of the University
+here, has said he will come back on condition that the students do not
+move in future in any political matter without his consent, and I am not
+able to guess whether that is a concession or a clever way of seeming to
+agree with both sides at once. The announcement of Tsai's return means
+that things will soon be back in normal shape and ready for another
+upheaval.
+
+We seem to be utterly stumped by the house situation. All the members of
+the Rockefeller Foundation get nice new houses built for them, and the
+houses are nice new Chinese ones but free from the poor qualities of
+those to be rented here. All the houses in Peking are built like our
+woodsheds, directly on the ground, raised a few inches from actual
+contact with the earth by a stone floor. The courts fill with water when
+the rains are hard and then they are moist for days, maybe weeks, and
+about two feet of wet seeps up the side of the walls. Yesterday we
+called on one of our Chinese friends here, and the whole place was in
+that state, but he did not seem to notice it. If he wants baths in the
+house it doubles the cost he pays the water wagon, and then after all
+the trouble of heating and carrying the water there is no way to dispose
+of the waste, except to get a man to come and carry it away in buckets.
+You would have endless occupation here just looking on to see how this
+bee colony can find so many ways of making life hard for itself. A
+gentleman at the Foundation has just been telling us how the coolies
+steal every little piece of metal, leftovers or screwed on, that they
+can get at. The privation of life sets up an entirely new set of
+standards for morals. No one, it appears, can be convicted for stealing
+food in China.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 8.
+
+
+The Rockefeller buildings are lovely samples of what money can do. In
+the midst of this worn and weak city they stand out like illuminating
+monuments of the splendor of the past in proper combination with the
+modern idea. They are in the finest old style of Chinese architecture;
+green roofs instead of yellow, with three stories instead of one. One
+wonders how long it will take China to catch up and know what they are
+doing. It is said the Chinese are not at all inclined to go to their
+hospital for fear of the ultra foreign methods which they do not yet
+understand. On the other hand, there is no disposition on the part of
+the Institution to meet them half way as the missionaries have always
+done. There are a number of Chinese among the doctors and they have now
+opened all the work to the women. There is a great need for women
+doctors now in China, but evidently it will take a generation yet before
+this work will begin to be understood and will take its natural place in
+Chinese affairs. It is rather amusing that this splendid set of
+buildings quite surrounds and overshadows the biggest Japanese hospital
+and school that is in Peking, and they say the fact has quite humiliated
+the Japanese. At present the buildings are nearing completion, but all
+the old rubbishy structures of former times will have to be pulled down
+before these new ones can be seen in all their beauty. Among other
+things, they have built thirty-five houses also in Chinese style but
+with all the modern comforts, in which to house their faculty, and in
+addition to those there are a good many buildings which were taken over
+from the old medical missionary College, besides, perhaps, some that
+will be left from the palace of the Prince whose property they bought.
+Two fine old lions are an addition from the Prince, but no foreign
+family would stand the inconveniences and discomforts of the ancient
+Prince, in spite of all his wives.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 11.
+
+
+They have the best melons here you ever saw. Their watermelons, which
+are sold on the street in such quantities as to put even the southern
+negroes to shame, are just like yellow ice cream in color, but they
+aren't as juicy as ours. Their musk melons aren't spicy like the ones at
+home at all, but are shaped like pears, only bigger and have an acid
+taste; in fact they are more like a cucumber with a little acid pep in
+them, only the seeds are all in the center like our melons. When you get
+macaroons and little cakes here in straight Chinese houses you realize
+that neither we nor the Europeans were the first to begin eating. They
+either boil or steam their bread--they eat wheat instead of rice in this
+part of the country--or fry it, and I have no doubt that doughnuts were
+brought home to grandma by some old seafaring captain. These things are
+all the stranger because, except for sponge cake, no such things are
+indigenous to Japan. So when you first get here you can hardly resist
+the impression that these things have been brought to China from America
+or Europe. Read a book called "Two Heroes of Cathay," by Luella Miner,
+and see how our country has treated some of these people in the past,
+and then you see them so fond of America and of Americans and you
+realize that in some ways they are ahead of us in what used to be known
+as Christianity before the war. I guess we wrote you from Hangchow about
+seeing the monument and shrine to two Chinese officials who were torn in
+pieces at the time of the Boxer rebellion because they changed a
+telegram to the provincial officers "Kill all foreigners" to read
+"Protect all foreigners." The shrine is kept up, of course, by the
+Chinese, and very few foreigners in China even know of the incident.
+
+Their art is really childlike and all the new kinds of artists in
+America who think being queer is being primitive ought to come over here
+and study the Chinese in their native abodes. A great love of bright
+colors and a wonderful knowledge of how to combine them, a comparatively
+few patterns used over and over in all kinds of ways, and a preference
+for designs that illustrate some story or idea or that appeal to their
+sense of the funny--it's a good deal more childlike than what passes in
+Greenwich Village for the childlike in art.
+
+
+
+
+Y.M.C.A., PEKING, July 17.
+
+
+A young Korean arrived here in the evening and he was met here on our
+porch by a Chinese citizen who is also Korean. The newly arrived could
+speak very little English and by means of a triangle we were able to
+arrive at his story. It seems there is quite a leakage of Korean
+students over the Chinese border all the time. To become a Chinese
+student requires six years of residence, or else it was three; anyway
+enough to postpone the idea of going to America to study till rather
+late in case one wants to resort to that way of escape from Japanese
+oppression. The elder and the one who has become a Chinese citizen
+seemed a good deal excited; I fancy they are dramatic by nature, and
+made many gestures. He urged on me the importance of our going to Korea
+and he is going to bring us some pictures to look at. Well, it all set
+me thinking, and so I have been reading the Korean guide book and
+reflecting on the wonderful climate there and wondering if we can get a
+reasonable place to stay. My first discovery of the real seriousness of
+the Korean situation came across me in Japan early in March, when we had
+a holiday on account of the funeral of the Korean prince, for the reason
+that after the funeral and gradually in connection with it the _Japanese
+Advertiser_ said it was rumored that the old Korean prince had committed
+suicide. Doubtless you may know the story there, and then again you may
+not. However, the facts have leaked one way and another and now it is
+known that the old man did commit suicide in order to prevent the
+marriage of the young prince, who has been brought up in Japan, to the
+Japanese princess. By etiquette his death, taking place three days or so
+before the date set for the wedding, prevented the marriage from taking
+place for two years, and it is hoped by the Koreans that before two
+years they could weaken the Japanese grip on Korea. We all know they
+have made a beginning since last March and the suicide did something to
+help that along. Now that Japan is advertising political reforms in
+Korea she would probably count on that reputation again to cover her
+real activities and intentions with the world at large for some time to
+come. The Japanese are like the Italian Padrones or other skillful newly
+rich; they have learned the western efficiency and in that they are at
+least a generation ahead of their neighbors. New knowledge to take
+advantage of the old experience which she has moved away from and
+understands so well, to make that experience contribute all it has
+towards building up and strengthening the new riches of herself. The
+excuse is the one of the short and easy road to success though in the
+long run it is destructive in its bearings. But a certain physical
+efficiency is what Japan surely has and she has made that go a little
+further than it really can go. It is just one more evidence of the
+failure of the Peace Conference to comprehend the excuses that Wilson is
+making for the concessions he has granted to the practical needs, as he
+calls them. We are now getting the first echoes from his speeches here.
+
+When I reflect on the changed aspect of our minds and on the facts that
+we have become accustomed to gradually since coming here I realize we
+have much to explain to you which now seems a matter of course over
+here. We discovered from reading an old back number somewhere that an
+American traveler had been given the order of the Royal Treasure in
+Japan when he was there. This order is said to be bestowed on the
+Japanese alone. Before he received it he had made a public speech to the
+effect that as China was down and out and needed some protector it was
+natural that Japan should be that, as by all historical reasons she was
+fitted to be. It appears to be true that the Militarists here who are
+causing the trouble for China and who are able to hold the government on
+account of foreign support have that idea so far as the "natural" goes.
+The great man of China to-day is Hsu, commonly known as Little Hsu,
+which is a good nickname in English, Little Shoe. He has never been in
+the western hemisphere and he thinks it is better for China to give a
+part of her territory to the Japanese who will help them, than to hope
+for anything from the other foreigners, who only want to exploit them,
+and if once China can get a stable government with the aid of the
+Japanese militarists, then after that she can build herself into a
+nation. Meantime Little Shoe has gained by a sad fluke in the
+legislature the appointment of Military Dictator of Mongolia, and this
+means he is given full power to use his army for agricultural and any
+other enterprises he may choose. It means, in short, that he is absolute
+dictator of all Mongolia which is retained by China and which is
+bordered by Eastern Inner Mongolia which Japan controls under the
+twenty-one Demands by a ninety-nine-year lease under the same absolute
+conditions. These last few days since that act was consummated, nothing
+is happening so far as the public knows, and according to friends the
+government can go on indefinitely here with no cabinet and no
+responsibility to react to the public demands. The bulk of the nation is
+against this state of affairs, but with the support of foreigners and
+the lack of organization there is nothing to do but stand it and see the
+nation sold out to Japan and other grabbers. If you can get at
+_Millard's Review_, look at it and read especially the recent act of the
+Foreign Council which licensed the press--I mean they passed an Act to
+do so. Fortunately the Act is not legal and will not be ratified by the
+Chinese Council at Shanghai.
+
+To this house come the officers of the Y. M.C.A. who are on the way home
+from Siberia and other places. The stories one hears here are full of
+horror and always the same. Our men are too few to accomplish anything
+and the whole affair is not any of our business anyway. Anyway the
+Canadians have a sense of virtue in getting out of it and going home,
+and well they may, say I. The Japanese have had 70,000 there at least
+and they may have shipped many more than that, for they have such a
+command of the railroads that there is no way of keeping track of them.
+I believe the conviction is they are taking in men according to their
+own judgment of the case all the time. Everybody agrees that the
+Japanese soldiers are hated by all the others and have generally proved
+themselves disagreeable, the Chinese being thoroughly liked.
+
+Meantime the dissatisfaction in Japan over rice in particular and food
+in general is quite evidently becoming more and more acute. And it is
+interesting to read the interviews with Count Ishii which all end up in
+the same way, that the fear of bomb-throwers in the United States is
+becoming a very serious alarm among all. The Anti-American agitation was
+hard for us to understand while we were there, but its meaning is less
+obscure now. Will it be effective? Is another world war already
+preparing? It is said here that the students were very successful during
+the strike in converting soldiers to their ideas. The boys at the High
+Normal said they were disappointed when they were let out of jail at the
+University because they had not converted more than half the soldiers.
+The guards around those boys were changed every four hours.
+
+It is raining most of the time and it is typical of the Chinese
+character that my teacher did not come because of the rain. You have to
+remember he never takes a 'ricksha, though he might have looked at it
+that it was better to pay a man than to lose the lesson. The mud in the
+roads here is much like the old days on Long Island before the gravel
+was put there, only it is softer and more slippery here, and the water
+stands.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 17.
+
+
+We are pleased to learn that the Japanese censor hasn't detained all our
+letters, though since you call them incoherent there must be some gaps.
+I'm sure we never write anything incoherent if you get it all. The
+course of events has been a trifle incoherent if you don't sit up and
+hold its hands all the time. Since China didn't sign the peace treaty
+things have quite settled down here, however, and the lack of excitement
+after living on aerated news for a couple of months is quite a letdown.
+However, we live in hopes of revolution or a coup d'etat or some other
+little incident to liven up the dog days.
+
+You will be pleased to know that the University Chancellor--see letters
+of early May--has finally announced that he will return to the
+University. It is supposed that the Government has assented to his
+conditions, among which is that the police won't interfere with the
+students, but will leave discipline to the University authorities. To
+resign and run away in order to be coaxed back is an art. It's too bad
+Wilson never studied it. The Chinese peace delegates reported back here
+that Lloyd George inquired what the twenty-one Demands were, as he had
+never heard of them. However, the Chinese hold Balfour as most
+responsible. In order to avoid any incoherence I will add that a Chinese
+servant informed a small boy in the household of one of our friends here
+that the Chinese are much more cleanly than the foreigners, for they
+have people come to them to clean their ears and said cleaners go way
+down in. This is an unanswerable argument.
+
+I hear your mother downstairs engaged on the fascinating task of trying
+to make Chinese tones. I may tell you that there are only four hundred
+spoken words in Chinese, all monosyllables. But each one of these is
+spoken in a different tone, there being four tones in this part of the
+country and increasing as you go south till in Canton there are twelve
+or more. In writing there are only 214 radicals, which are then combined
+and mixed up in all sorts of ways. My last name here is Du, my given
+name is Wei. The Du is made up of two characters, one of which means
+tree and the other earth. They are written separately. Then Wei is made
+up of some more characters mixed up together, one character for woman
+and one for dart, and I don't know what else. Don't ask me how they
+decided that earth and tree put together made Du, for I can't tell.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 19.
+
+
+I met the tutor, the English tutor, of the young Manchu Emperor, the
+other day--he has three Chinese tutors besides. He teaches him Math.,
+Sciences, etc., besides English, which he has been doing for three
+months. It is characteristic of the Chinese that they not only didn't
+kill any of the royal family, but they left them one of the palaces in
+the Imperial City and an income of four million dollars Mex. a year, and
+within this palace the kid who is now thirteen is still Emperor, is
+called that, and is waited upon by the eunuch attendants who crawl
+before him on their hands and knees. At the same time he is, of course,
+practically a prisoner, being allowed to see his father and his younger
+brother once a month. Otherwise he has no children to play with at all.
+There is some romance left in China after all if you want to let your
+imagination play about this scene. The tutors don't kneel, although they
+address him as Your Majesty, or whatever it is in Chinese, and they walk
+in and he remains standing until the tutor is seated. This is the old
+custom, which shows the reverence in which even the old Tartars must
+have held education and learning. He has a Chinese garden in which to
+walk, but no place to ride or for sports. The tutor is trying to get the
+authorities to send him to the country, let him have playmates and
+sports, and also abolish the eunuch--but he seems to think they will
+more likely abolish him. The kid is quite bright, reads all the
+newspapers and is much interested in politics, keeps track of the Paris
+Conference, knows about the politicians in all the countries, and in
+short knows a good deal more about world politics than most boys of his
+age; also he is a good classical Chinese scholar. The Chinese don't seem
+to worry at all about the boy's becoming the center of intrigue and
+plots, but I imagine they sort of keep him in reserve with the idea that
+unless the people want monarchy back he never can do anything, while if
+they do let him back it will be the will of heaven.
+
+I am afraid I haven't sufficiently impressed it upon you that this is
+the rainy season. It was impressed upon us yesterday afternoon, when the
+side street upon which we live was a flowing river a foot and a half
+deep. The main street on which the Y. M. C. A. building is situated was
+a solid lake from housewall to housewall, though not more than six
+inches or so. But the street is considerably wider than Broadway, so it
+was something of a sight. Peking has for many hundred years had sewers
+big enough for a man to stand up in, but they don't carry fast enough.
+Probably about this time you will be reading cables from some part of
+China about floods and the number of homeless. The Yellow River is known
+as the curse of China, so much damage is done. We were told that when
+the missionaries went down to do flood relief work a year or so ago,
+they were so busy that they didn't have time to preach, and they did so
+much good that when they were through they had to put up the bars to
+keep the Chinese from joining the churches en masse. We haven't heard,
+however, that they took the hint as to the best way of doing business.
+These floods go back largely if not wholly to the policy of the Chinese
+in stripping the forests. If you were to see the big coffins they are
+buried in and realize the large part of China's scant forests that must
+go into coffins you would favor a law that no man could die until he had
+planted a tree for his coffin and one extra.
+
+One of our new friends here is quite an important politician, though
+quite out of it just now. He told a story last night which tickled the
+Chinese greatly. The Japanese minister here haunted the President and
+Prime Minister while the peace negotiations were on, and every day on
+the strength of what they told him cabled the Tokyo government that the
+Chinese delegates were surely going to sign. Now he is in a somewhat
+uncomfortable position making explanations to the home government. He
+sent a representative after they didn't sign to the above-mentioned
+friend to ask him whether the government had been fooling him all the
+time. He replied No, but that the Japanese should remember that there
+was one power greater than the government, namely, the people, and that
+the delegates had obeyed the people. The Japanese will never be able to
+make up their minds though whether they were being deliberately deceived
+or not. The worst of the whole thing, however, is that even intelligent
+Chinese are relying upon war between the United States and Japan, and
+when they find out that the United States won't go to war just on
+China's account, there will be some kind of a revulsion. But if the
+United States had used its power when the war closed to compel
+disarmament and get some kind of a just settlement, there would be no
+limit to its influence over here. As it is, they infer that the moral is
+that Might Controls, and that adds enormously to the moral power of
+Japan as against the United States. It is even plainer here than at home
+that if the United States wasn't going to see its "ideals" through, it
+shouldn't have professed any, but if it did profess them it ought to
+have made good on 'em even if we had to fight the whole world. However,
+our financial pressure, and the threat of withholding food and raw
+materials would have enabled Wilson to put anything over.
+
+Another little incident is connected with the Chancellor of the
+University. Although he is not a politician at all, the Militarist party
+holds him responsible for their recent trials and the student outbreaks.
+So, although it announced that the Chancellor is coming back, the Anfu
+Club, the parliamentary organization of the militarists, is still trying
+to keep him out. The other night they gave a banquet to some University
+students and bribed them to start something. At the end they gave each
+one dollar extra for 'ricksha hire the next day, so there would be no
+excuse for not going to the meeting at the University. Fifteen turned
+up, but the spies on the other side heard something was going on and
+they rang the bell, collected about a hundred and locked the bribees in.
+Then they kept them in till they confessed the whole story (and put
+their names to a written confession) and turned over their resolutions
+and mimeographed papers which had been prepared for them in which they
+said they were really the majority of the students and did not want the
+Chancellor back, and that a noisy minority had imposed on the public,
+etc. The next day the Anfu papers told about an awful riot at the
+University, and how a certain person had instigated and led it, although
+he hadn't been at the University at all that day.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, July 24.
+
+
+We expect to go to Manchuria, probably in September, and in October to
+Shansi, which is quite celebrated now because they have a civil governor
+who properly devotes himself to his job, and they are said to have sixty
+per cent or more of the children in school and to be prepared for
+compulsory education in 1920. It is the ease with which the Chinese do
+these things without any foreign assistance which makes you feel so
+hopeful for China on the one hand, and so disgusted on the other that
+they put up so patiently with inefficiency and graft most of the time.
+There seems to be a general impression that the present situation cannot
+continue indefinitely, but must take a turn one way or another. The
+student agitation has died down as an active political thing but
+continues intellectually. In Tientsin, for example, they publish several
+daily newspapers which sell for a copper apiece. A number of students
+have been arrested in Shantung lately by the Japanese, so I suppose the
+students are actively busy there. I fancy that when vacation began there
+was quite an exodus in that direction.
+
+I am told that X----, our Japanese friend, is much disgusted with the
+Chinese about the Shantung business--that Japan has promised to return
+Shantung, etc., and that Japan can't do it until China gets a stable
+government to take care of things, because their present governments are
+so weak that China would simply give away her territory to some other
+power, and that the Chinese instead of attacking the Japanese ought to
+mind their own business and set their own house in order. There is
+enough truth in this so that it isn't surprising that so intelligent and
+liberal a person as X---- is taken in by it. But what such Japanese as
+he cannot realize, because the truth is never told to them, is how
+responsible the Japanese government is for fostering a weak and
+unrepresentative government here, and what a temptation to it a weak and
+divided China will continue to be, for it will serve indefinitely as an
+excuse for postponing the return of Shantung--as well as for interfering
+elsewhere. Anyone who knows the least thing about not only general
+disturbances in China but special causes of friction between China and
+Japan, can foresee that there will continue to be a series of plausible
+excuses for postponing the return promised--and anyway, as a matter of
+fact, what she has actually promised to return compared with the rights
+she would keep in her possession amount to little or nothing. Just this
+last week there was a clash in Manchuria and fifteen or twenty Japanese
+soldiers are reported killed by Chinese--there will always be incidents
+of that kind which will have to be settled first. If the other countries
+would only surrender their special concessions to the keeping of an
+international guarantee, they could force the hand of Japan, but I can't
+see Great Britain giving up Hong Kong. On the whole, however, Great
+Britain, next to us, and barring the opium business, has been the most
+decent of all the great powers in dealing with China. I started out with
+a prejudice to the contrary, and have been surprised to learn how little
+grabbing England has actually done here. Of course, India is the only
+thing she really cares about and her whole policy here is controlled by
+that consideration, with such incidental trade advantages as she can
+pick up.
+
+
+
+
+(Later) July 27.
+
+
+I think I wrote a while back about a little kid five years old or so who
+walked up the middle aisle at one of my lectures and stood for about
+fifteen minutes quite close to me, gazing at me most seriously and also
+wholly unembarrassed. Night before last we went to a Chinese restaurant
+for dinner, under the guardianship of a friend here. A little boy came
+into our coop and began most earnestly addressing me in Chinese. Out
+friend found out that he was asking me if I knew his third uncle. He was
+the kid of the lecture who had recognized me as the lecturer, and whose
+third uncle is now studying at Columbia. If you meet Mr. T----
+congratulate him for me on his third nephew. The boy made us several
+calls during the evening, all equally serious and unconstrained. At one
+he asked me for my card, which he carefully wrapped up in ceremonial
+paper. The restaurant is near a lotus pond and they are now in their
+fullest bloom. I won't describe them beyond saying that the lotus is the
+lotus and advising you to come out next summer and see them.
+
+
+
+
+PEKING, August 4.
+
+
+I went to Tientsin to an educational conference for two days last week.
+It was called by the Commissioner of this Province for all the
+principals of the higher schools to discuss the questions connected with
+the opening of the schools in the fall. Most of the heads of schools are
+very conservative and were much opposed to the students' strikes, and
+also to the students' participation in politics. They are very nervous
+and timorous about the opening of the schools, for they think that the
+students after engaging in politics all summer won't lend themselves
+readily to school discipline--their high schools, etc., are all boarding
+schools--and will want to run the schools after having run the
+government for several months. The liberal minority, while they want the
+students to settle down to school work, think that the students'
+experiences will have been of great educational value and that they will
+come back with a new social viewpoint, and the teaching ought to be
+changed--and also the methods of school discipline--to meet the new
+situation.
+
+I had a wonderful Chinese lunch at a private high school one day there.
+The school was started about fifteen years ago in a private house with
+six pupils; now they have twenty acres of land, eleven hundred pupils,
+and are putting up a first college building to open a freshman class of
+a hundred this fall--it's of high school grade now, all Chinese support
+and management, and non-missionary or Christian, although the principal
+is an active Christian and thinks Christ's teachings the only salvation
+for China. The chief patron is a non-English speaking, non-Christian
+scholar of the old type--but with modern ideas. The principal said that
+when three of them two years ago went around the world on an educational
+trip, this old scholar among them, the United States Government gave
+them a special secret service detective from New York to San Francisco,
+and this man was so impressed with the old Chinese gentleman that he
+said: "What kind of education can produce such a man as that, the finest
+gentleman I ever saw. You western educated gentlemen are spoiled in
+comparison with him." They certainly have the world beat in courtesy of
+manners--as much politeness as the Japanese but with much less manner,
+so it seems more natural. However, this type is not very common. I asked
+the principal what the effect of the missionary teaching was on the
+Chinese passivity and non-resistance. He said it differed very much as
+between Americans and English and among Americans between the older and
+the younger lot. The latter, especially the Y. M. C. A., have given up
+the non-interventionalist point of view and take the ground that
+Christianity ought to change social conditions. The Y. M. C. A. is, he
+says, a group of social workers rather than of missionaries in the
+old-fashioned sense--all of which is quite encouraging. Perhaps the
+Chinese will be the ones to rejuvenate Christianity by dropping its rot,
+wet and dry, and changing it into a social religion. The principal is a
+Teachers College man and one of the most influential educators in China.
+He speaks largely in picturesque metaphor, and I'm sorry I can't
+remember what he said. Among other things, in speaking of the energy of
+the Japanese and the inertia of the Chinese, he said the former were
+mercury, affected by every change about them, and the latter cotton wool
+that the heat didn't warm and cold didn't freeze. He confirmed my
+growing idea, however, that the conservatism of the Chinese was much
+more intellectual and deliberate, and less mere routine clinging to
+custom, than I used to suppose. Consequently, when their ideas do
+change, the people will change more thoroughly, more all the way
+through, than the Japanese.
+
+It seems that the present acting Minister of Education was allowed to
+take office under three conditions--that he should dissolve the
+University, prevent the Chancellor from returning, and dismiss all the
+present heads of the higher schools here. He hasn't been able, of
+course, to accomplish one, and the Anfu Club is correspondingly sore. He
+is said to be a slick politician, and when he has been at dinner with
+our liberal friends he tells them how even he is calumniated--people say
+that he is a member of the Anfu Club.
+
+I struck another side of China on my way home from Tientsin. I was
+introduced to an ex-Minister of Finance as my traveling companion. He is
+a Ph.D. in higher math. from America, and is a most intelligent man. But
+his theme of conversation was the need of a scientific investigation of
+spirits and spirit possession and divination, etc., in order to decide
+scientifically the existence of the soul and an overruling mind.
+Incidentally he told a fine lot of Chinese ghost stories. Aside from the
+coloring of the tales I don't know that there was anything especially
+Chinese about them. He certainly is much more intelligent about it than
+some of our American spiritualists. But the ghosts were certainly
+Chinese all right--spirit possession mostly. I suppose you know that the
+walls that stand in front of the better-to-do Chinese houses are there
+to keep spirits out--the spirits can't turn a corner, so when the wall
+is squarely in front of the location of the front door the house is
+safe. Otherwise they come in and take possession of somebody--if they
+aren't comfortable as they are. It seems there is quite a group of
+ex-politicians in Tientsin who are much interested in psychical
+research. Considering that China is the aboriginal home of ghosts, I
+can't see why the western investigators don't start their research here.
+These educated Chinese aren't credulous, so there is nothing crude about
+their ghost stories.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Typographical errors in English were corrected. Spellings of
+non-English words were left as found.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by
+John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey
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