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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/31043-8.txt b/31043-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..acd04a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/31043-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4901 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by +John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Letters from China and Japan + +Author: John Dewey + Alice Chipman Dewey + +Editor: Evelyn Dewey + +Release Date: January 22, 2010 [EBook #31043] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN + + +BY + +JOHN DEWEY, Ph.D., LL.D. + +PROFESSOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY + + +AND + +ALICE CHIPMAN DEWEY + + +Edited by + +EVELYN DEWEY + + +NEW YORK +E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY +681 FIFTH AVENUE + + + + +Copyright, 1920, + +By E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + +_All Rights Reserved_ + +_Printed in the United States of America_ + + + + +PREFACE + + +John Dewey, Professor of Philosophy in Columbia University, and his +wife, Alice C. Dewey, who wrote the letters reproduced in this book, +left the United States early in 1919 for a trip to Japan. The trip was +eagerly embarked on, as they had desired for many years to see at +least something of the Eastern Hemisphere. The journey was to be +solely for pleasure, but just before their departure from San +Francisco, Professor Dewey was invited, by cable, to lecture at the +Imperial University at Tokyo, and later at a number of other points in +the Japanese Empire. They traveled and visited in Japan for some three +to four months and in May, after a most happy experience, made doubly +so by the unexpected courtesies extended them, they decided to go on +to China, at least for a few weeks, before returning to the United +States. + +The fascination of the struggle going on in China for a unified and +independent democracy caused them to alter their plan to return to the +United States in the summer of 1919. Professor Dewey applied to +Columbia University for a year's leave of absence, which was granted, +and with Mrs. Dewey, is still in China. Both are lecturing and +conferring, endeavoring to take some of the story of a Western +Democracy to an Ancient Empire, and in turn are enjoying an +experience, which, as the letters indicate, they value as a great +enrichment of their own lives. The letters were written to their +children in America, without thought of their ever appearing in print. + + EVELYN DEWEY. + +NEW YORK, +January 5th, 1920. + + + + +LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN + + + + +TOKYO, Monday, February. + + +Well, if you want to see one mammoth, muddy masquerade just see Tokyo +to-day. I am so amused all the time that if I were to do just as I +feel, I should sit down or stand up and call out, as it were, from the +housetops to every one in the world to come and see the show. If it +were not for the cut of them I should think that all the cast-off +clothing had been misdirected and had gone to Japan instead of +Belgium. But they are mostly as queer in cut as they are in material. +Imagine rummaging your attic for the colors and patterns of past days +and then gathering up kimonos of all the different colors and patterns +and sizes and with it all a lot of men's hats that are like nothing +you ever saw, and very muddy streets, and there you have it. The +'ricksha men have their legs fitted with tight trousers and puttees to +end them, and they are graceful. They run all day, through the mud and +snow and wet in these things made of cotton cloth that are neither +stockings nor shoes but both, and they stand about or sit on steps and +wait, and yet they get through the day alive. I am distracted between +the desire to ride in the baby cart and the fear of the language, +mixed with the greater fear of the pain of being drawn by a +fellow-being. They are a lithe set of little men and look as if they +had steel springs to make them go when you look at their course. Still +I have been only in autos, of which there are not many here. I get +tired with the excitement of the constant amusement. This morning a +man came out of a curio shop. Bow. "Exguse me, madame, is this not +Mrs. Daway? I knew you because I saw your picture in the paper. Will +you not come in and look at our many curios? I shall have the pleasure +of bringing them to your hotel. What is the number of your room, +madame?" Bow. "No, please do not bring them to my room, for I am +always out. I will come in and see them sometime." "Thank you, madame, +please do so, madame, we have many fine curios." Bow. "Good-morning, +madame." + +The looks of the streets are like the clothes, just left over from the +past ages. Of course Tokyo is the modern city of Japan, and we shall +watch out for the ancient ones when it comes their turn. I wish I +could give you an idea of the looks of the poor. The children up to +the age of about thirteen appear never to wipe their noses. Combine +this effect (more effect than in Italy) with several kimonos, one on +top of the other, made of cotton and wool of bright colors and +flowered, with a queer brown checked one on top; this wadded and much +too big, therefore hitched up round the waist. Swung in this outside +one a baby is carried on the back, the little baby head with black +bangs or still fuzzy scalp sticking out, nose never yet touched by a +handkerchief, wearer of the baby with a nose in the same condition if +at a tender age--I scream inside of me as I go about, and it is more +exciting than any play ever. We are as much curiosities to them as +they are to us, though we live where the most foreigners go. Now on +top of it all we can no more make a car driver understand where we +want to go than if we were monkeys. We can't find any names on the +streets, we can't read a sign except the few that are in English; the +streets wind in any and every direction; they are long and short and +circular, while a big canal circles through the part of the city where +we are and we seem to cross it every few minutes; every time we cross +it we think we are going in the same direction as the last time we +crossed it. About this stage of our search your father goes up to a +young fellow with an ulster on, and capes, and a felt hat that is like +a fedora except for a few inches taken out of its height, and says to +him, Tei-ko-ku Hotel, which would mean the Imperial Hotel if he had +pronounced it right, and the boy turns around and says, "Do you want +ze Imperialee Hoter?" And we say, "Yes" (you bet), and the fellow +says, "Eet is ze beeg building down zere," so we wade along some more +with all the clog walkers looking at our feet till we come to this old +barn of a place where we are paying as much as at a Fifth Avenue +hotel, and get clear soup for dinner. Just like any one of those +old-fashioned French places where they measure out with care all they +give you, and where the head is a most distinguished and conspicuous +jack-in-the-box who jacks at you all the time, bows every time you go +down the hall and all and all and all. It is all so screamingly funny. +The shops are nearly as big as our bedrooms at home with enough space +to step in and leave your shoes before you mount the takenomo and walk +on the mats. We could not go into any shop, except the foreign book +stores, because we were too dirty and had no time to unlace our shoes +even if we wanted to wear out our silk stockings. We shall have some +nice striped socks before we begin to do shopping. I am possessed with +the notion of trying the clogs. + + + + +Tuesday, February 11 (TOKYO). + + +To-day is a holiday, so we cannot go to the bank, but we can go to a +meeting where they will discuss universal franchise and +democratization generally. The Emperor is said to be indisposed, so he +will not come to the celebration. His illnesses, like everything else +about him, are arranged by the ministers and mistresses, as near as we +can make out. + +We are having so many interesting experiences and impressions that it +is already difficult to catch up in writing them down. Yesterday +morning we went to walk and in the afternoon we were taken out in a +car so that we have got over the first impression of the surface. We +saw the university and the park where the tombs of the shoguns are, +and those tombs are wonderful, just to look at from the car. About +to-morrow we may be able to go to the museum. The rows of stone +lanterns are impressive beyond anything I had imagined; hundreds of +them which must have given to the nights they illuminated a +wonderfully weird spectral look. + +It is not fully true that the Japanese are not interested in their +history. At least the educated are, as in any other country. A friend +told us about the revival of interest in the tea ceremony. He is going +to arrange for us to go to one somewhere, he did not say where, but it +will be accompanied by a grand dinner and will express the +magnificence of the new rich as well as the taste of old Japan, to +judge from the impressions he gave us. He told us of an old Chinese +cup for the tea ceremony that a certain millionaire has recently paid +160,000 yen for. That means $80,000. He says the collectors have +various sets, and each set will often represent a million dollars. +This particular bowl is of black porcelain with decorations of bright +color. He told us also of a tea which is now produced in China by +grafting the tea branches on to lemon trees. He has some of this tea +which was given him by the Chinese ambassador and so I hope we may get +a taste of it. + +Apropos of this hotel you will be interested to know the manager who +runs the house has just come home from the Waldorf and from London +where he has been learning how to do--people. The exchange rates they +offered Papa seem to be an index of their line of development and they +are going to build more. This is _the_ one first-class hotel in Japan. +At present they have only about sixty rooms or a little more. + +In general, things are coming along promisingly. I should be through +lecturing by the first of April here, which is _just_ the time to +begin traveling. It turns out a good scheme to come in winter, for the +weather, while not cheerful, is far from really cold, though it is not +easy to see just how the palms thrive in the snow. Japan seems to have +developed a peculiar type of semi-tropical vegetation which endures +freezing and winter. I can foresee that we are going to be busy +enough, and for the next few weeks your mother is going to have more +time for miscellaneous sightseeing than I. It is indescribably +fascinating; in substance, of course, like the books and pictures, but +nothing really prepares you for the fact that it is not only real in +quality but on such a vast scale---not just specimens here and there. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, February 13. + + +We have done our first independent shopping to-day. I can't get over +my astonishment at the amount and quality of English spoken here; it +is about as easy shopping in this store, the big department store, as +it is at home--much easier as respects attention and comfort. They +give us little wrappers or feet gloves to put over our shoes. Think of +what an improvement that would be in muddy weather in Chicago. + +This afternoon is sort of a lull after the storm of sociability and +hospitality which reached its temporary height yesterday. Let me give +the diary. Before we had finished breakfast--and we have eaten every +morning at eight until to-day--people began to call. Then two +gentlemen took us to the University in their car and we called on the +President again. He is a gentleman of the old school, Confucianist I +suppose, and your mother was much impressed at being taken in, instead +of staying in the car, but I think he was much more pleased and +complimented by her call than by mine. Then we were taken to the +department store to which I have already alluded. Many people do all +their buying there, because there are fixed prices with a reward for a +discovery of any place where the same goods are sold cheaper, and +absolute honesty as to quality. But they also said that was the easy +way to visit Japan and learn about the clothes, ornaments, toys, etc., +and also to see the people, as the Japanese from all over the country +come there to see the sights. There were a group of country people in; +they are called red blankets, not greenhorns, because they wear in +winter a red bed blanket gathered with a string, instead of an +overcoat. Then at night it comes in handy. + +The stores are already displaying the things for the girls' festival +though it doesn't come till early March--this is the peach fête, and +the display of festive dolls--king and queen, servants, ladies of the +court in their old costumes, is very interesting and artistic. They +have certainly put the doll to uses which we haven't approached. Then +we had lunch at the store, a regular Japanese lunch, which tasted very +good, and I ate mine with chop sticks. Then they brought us back to +the hotel, and at two a friend came and took me to call on Baron +Shibusawa--I suppose even benighted foreigners like yourself will know +who he is, but you may not know that he is 83, that he has a skin like +a baby's, and shows all the signs of the most acute mental vigor, or +that for the last two or three years he has given up all business and +devoted himself to philanthropic and humanitarian activities. He does +evidently what not many American millionaires do; he takes an +intellectual and moral interest, and doesn't merely give money. He +explained for about half an hour or more his theory of life (he is +purely a Confucianist and not a religionist of any kind), and what he +was trying to do, especially that it isn't merely relief. He is +desirous to preserve the old Confucian standards only adapted to +present economic conditions; it is essentially a morality of feudal +economic relationships, as perhaps you know, and he thinks the modern +factory employers can be brought to take the old paternal attitude to +the employees and thus forestall the class struggle here. The radicals +laugh at the notion here much as they would in the United States, but +for my part if he can get in a swipe at the Marxian theory of social +evolution and bring about another type still of social evolution, I +don't see why he should not have a run for his money. According to all +reports there is very little labor and capital problem here yet, +though the big fortunes made by the war and the increased prosperity +of the workingmen have begun to make a change, it is said. Up to the +present labor unions have not been permitted, but the government has +announced that while they are not encouraged they will not be any +longer forbidden. + +But I must get back to the story. Another friend had asked us to go to +the theater with him, the Imperial Theater, which has European seats +and is a fine and large building, as fine as in any capital and not +overdecorated like a New York one. The theater began at four, and, +with about half an hour intermission for dinner, continued till ten at +night; the regular Japanese theaters begin at eleven in the morning +and continue till ten at night and you have your food brought to you; +also they have no seats and you sit on your legs. None of the plays +was strictly of the old historic type, but the most interesting one by +far was adapted from a classic--it centers to some extent about a +faithful horse, and the people are country farmers of several +centuries ago. The least interesting was a kind of problem +play--mostly philosophical discourse of the modern type--the right to +expression of self and an artistic career, aphorisms having no +dramatic appeal to even the Japanese audience. These people certainly +have an alert intelligence--almost as specialized as the Parisian, for +the audience was distinctly of the people, and no American audience +could be got to pay the close attention it gave to performances where +the merits, so far as they are not strictly artistic, in the technique +of acting which is very highly developed, depend upon catching the +play of moral emotions rather than upon anything very theatrical. +However, the classic drama which is based upon old stories and +traditions is more dramatic and melodramatic. The Japanese also say +the old theater has much better actors than the semi-Europeanized one +which is, I suppose, supported by the government. In the Imperial, the +orchestra seats are one dollar and a half; they are more--on the floor +at that--in the all-day theaters. Even in this one they have not +introduced applause, though there was slight handclapping once or +twice when the curtain went down. The Japanese have always had the +revolving theater as a means of scene shifting; it works like a +railway turntable apparently. Well, that ended the day yesterday. +Except we had invited two gentlemen to dinner, and when we told our +friends about it, they said, "Oh, just telephone them to come some +other day," which appears to be good Japanese etiquette, as it is also +to make calls at any time of the day, so we did. But unfortunately +they had to telephone to-day that they couldn't come to-night. + +To-day has been comparatively calm; we have only had four Japanese +callers and two American ones. Of the two Japanese, one is a woman who +is the warden of the Girls' University, and the other is a teacher in +it, a young woman of a wealthy and aristocratic family who has become +too modern, I judge, for her family. I hope all you children will make +a bow to every Japanese you meet and ask him what you can do to be of +service to him. I shall have to spend the rest of my life trying to +make up for some of the kindnesses and courtesies which so abound +here. + +I am afraid much of this is more interesting to me to write about than +it is to you to read, to say nothing of being more interesting to go +through than to read about. But you can then save the letter for us to +re-read when we get old and return from our Odysseying, and wish to +recover the memories of the days when people were so kind that they +created in us the illusion of being somebody, and gave us the combined +enjoyments of home and being in a strange and semi-magic country; +semi-magic for us. For the mass of the people, one can only wonder at +their cheerfulness and realize what a really old and overcrowded +country is and how Buddhism and stoic fatalistic cheerfulness develop. +Don't ever fool yourself into thinking of Japan as a new country; I +don't any longer believe the people who tell you that you have to go +to China and India to see antiquity. Superficially it may be so, but +not fundamentally. Any country is old where birth and death are like +the coming and dropping of leaves on a tree, and where the individual +is of as much importance as the leaf. Old world and New world are not +mere relatives; they are as near absolutes as anything. + +We heard a whistle making its cry outside and Mamma thought it was the +bank messenger, so I rang the bell for the boy to bring him in--but +alas, it was much less romantic; it was the call of the macaroni +peddler. + + + + +TOKYO, February. + + +Here we are, one week after landing, on a hill in a beautiful garden of +trees on which the buds are already swelling. The plums will soon be in +bloom, and in March the camellias, which grow to fairly large trees. In +the distance we see the wonderful Fuji, nearby the other hills of this +district, and the further plains of the city. Just at the foot of our +hill is a canal, along which is an alley of cherry trees formerly +famous, but largely destroyed by a storm a few years ago. + +We have a wonderful apartment to ourselves, mostly all windows, which in +this house are glass. A very large bedroom, a small dressing room, and a +study where I now sit with the sun coming in the windows which are all +its sides. We need this sun, though the hibashi, or boxes of charcoal, +do wonders in warming up your feet and drying hair, as I am now doing. +We are surrounded by all the books on Japan that modern learning has +produced, so we have never a waiting moment. The house is very large, +with one house after another covering the hilltop and connected by the +galleries that are cut off the sides of each room in succession. I shall +try to get a photo. At the extreme end of the house is Mr. X----'s +library of several rooms, and at the limit of that the tea room for the +tea ceremonies. Our host is not one of the new rich who buy sets at a +million dollars for performing this ceremony. He laughs at that. But +there is a gold lacquer table which is like transfixed sunshine, and +there are other pieces of old furniture, which are priceless now, and +which have come down in his family. You would be amused to see us at +breakfast, which O-Tei, the maid assigned to us, serves in our sun +parlor. First we have fruit. Two little lacquer tables to move wherever +we want to sit. The dishes and service are in our fashion in this house. +Nice old blue Canton plates and other things Japanese. After fruit she +makes toast over the charcoal in the hibashi, two little iron sticks +stuck in the bread to hold it. On these prongs she hands us the toast. +Meantime she teaches us Japanese and we teach her English which she +already knows, and she giggles every time we speak. Well, we put our +toast down on the plate and she disappears. The coffee pot is on a side +table and we desperately look for cups for ourselves, though with some +fear of disturbing the etiquette. No cups, she forgot them. After a +while she comes up again with the cups and we get coffee, then she goes +down again and brings scrambled eggs on the nice old blue plates. Then +she giggles a little more and talks in that soft voice that is like +nothing else we ever heard, as she hands us a nice hot piece of toast on +an iron spike; she is much pleased and giggles because I tell her the +toast is not harmed by dropping it on the clean floor, and she walks off +into the big bedroom to bring the coffee from the gas heater. It is all +like a pretty play unmarred by any remote ideas about efficiency, and +time and labor-saving devices. Then two maids make our beds; then they +dust the floor, one holding up the sofa on edge while the other whisks +underneath it, and they smile and bow and take an interest in every move +we make as if we were their dearest friends. + +Enter now the housekeeper who, with many bows, announces v-e-r-y +s-l-o-w-l-y that she would like to accompany me to go about the city and +to explain things to me, as I would thus teach her English. I asked if +she were going to church and she said she wasn't a Christian. Think what +a funny sound that has. She is the secretary of Mr. X---- and a student +in the new Christian college of which he is the President. She comes in +now to wait on us at breakfast and she stays and repeats English after +us. She knows a lot of English, but it is so literary that it is quite +amusing to turn her into the ways of ordinary talk. To get her to open +her mouth and break the polite Japanese whisper, in which the Japanese +women speak, is what I work most on. Yesterday we visited the Women's +University which is within walking distance of this house. The +President, Mr. Naruse, is dying of cancer. He is in bed but is able to +talk quite naturally. He has made a farewell address to his students, +has said good-bye to his faculty in a speech, and has named the dean, +who is acting in his place now, as his successor. At this University +they teach flower arrangement, long sword, and Japanese etiquette, and +the chief warden is a fine woman. She says I may come in as much as I +like to see those different things. + +In the afternoon we had callers again, among them two women. Women are +rare. One, a Dr. R----, is an osteopath who has practiced here for +fifteen years and is an old friend of our host's. The second, Miss +T----, has just returned from seven years in our country. I heard much +of her at Stanford and brought letters to her. She has a chair in the +Women's University. It is a chair of Sociology, but she says the +authorities are afraid the time has not yet come for her to start on +sociology, so she will begin with the teaching of English and work into +sociology by the process of ingratiating it into her classes. She is an +interesting personality. She was sent to me to say I might be lonely +because your father was away so she was to take me, with any other +friends I wanted, to the theater. As we had already been to the Imperial +Theater and sat in the Baron's box it was finally arranged to go to the +Kabuki, where we sit on the floor and see real old Japanese acting, +which I am very anxious to do. I understand it begins at 11 in the +morning and lasts until ten at night. + + + + +February 22. + + +Yesterday we went to the theater, beginning at one and ending about +nine; tea is constantly in the box, and little meals--and a big +one--between the acts. We liked the old Japanese theater better than the +more or less modernized one. Baron Shibusawa presented us with a box--or +rather two of them--and his niece and another relative and the two young +people from the house went. I won't try to describe the dramas, except +to say that the way to study Japanese history and tradition would be to +go to the theater with some one to interpret, and that while the theater +is as plain as a medieval European one, the dresses are even more +elaborate and costly. The stage is a beautiful spectacle when there are +forty old Samurai on it, as the garments are genuine, not tinsel. Mamma +went more than I, because I had to leave at half-past four to go to the +Concordia Society--in fact, I hadn't expected to go at all at first, as +the Baron said that he sent the offer of the box because he feared Mamma +might be lonely when I was away! There were about twenty-five Japanese +and Americans at the meeting and after I had spoken for half an hour we +had dinner in an adjoining restaurant, and then sat around and visited +for an hour or so. + +The great event of the week, aside from the theater yesterday, was +visiting the Women's University--you mightn't think that a great treat, +but you don't know what we saw. We started early to walk, since it isn't +far and we had been shown the way once, but we were rubbering so busily +at the shops that we failed to notice where we were till we got to the +end of things and then had to turn around and walk back, so we got there +late. The forenoon we spent in the elementary classes and kindergarten, +which are their practice school. Those very bright kimonos for children +you see are real--all the children wear them, as bright as can be, +generally reds, and then some. So the rooms where the little children +were are like gardens of flowers with bright birds in them--gay as can +be. The work was all interesting, but the colored crayon drawings +particularly. They have a great deal of freedom there, and instead of +the children imitating and showing no individuality--which seems to be +the proper thing to say--I never saw so much variety and so little +similarity in drawings and other hand work, to say nothing of its +quality being much better than the average of ours. The children were +under no visible discipline, but were good as well as happy; they paid +no attention to visitors, which I think is ultramodern, as I expected to +see them all rise and bow. If you will think of doing all the regular +school work--including in this school a good deal of hand work, drawing, +etc.--and then learning by the end of the sixth grade a thousand or more +Chinese characters, to make as well as to read, you will have some idea +of how industrious the kids have to be, and of course they have to learn +Japanese characters, too. Then we had a luncheon, ten of us altogether, +cooked and served by the girls in the Domestic Department; some +luncheon!--and garnished in a way to beat the Ritz--European food and +service. Then the real show began. First we had flower arrangement, +ancient and modern styles, then examples of the ancient etiquette in +serving tea and cakes to guests, and then of inferiors calling on +superiors; then Koto playing--a thirteen-stringed harp that lies on the +floor--first two girls and the teacher, and then a solo by the teacher. +He is blind and said to be the best player in Japan; he gave "Cotton +Bleaching in the Brook," and said he rarely played it, only once a year. +Well, you could hear the water ripple and fall, and hit the stones, and +the women singing and beating the cotton. I could hear it better than I +can hear spring in our music, so I think perhaps my ears are made to fit +the Japanese scale, or lack of it. Then we were taken into the tea house +and shown the tea ceremony, being served with tea. Mamma sat tatami, on +her heels, but I basely took a chair. Then we went to the gymnasium and +saw the old Samurai women's sword and spear exercises, etc. The teacher +was an old woman of seventy-five and as lithe and nimble as a cat--more +graceful than any of the girls. I have an enormous respect now for the +old etiquette and ceremonies regarded as physical culture. Every +movement has to be made perfectly, and it cannot be done without +conscious control. The modernized gym exercises by the children were +simply pitiful compared with all these ceremonies. Then we were taken to +the dormitories, which are in a garden, simple wooden Japanese +buildings, like barns our girls would think, but everything so clean you +could eat on the floor anywhere, with the south side all glass and sun, +and the girls sitting on the floor to study on a table about a foot and +a half high; no beds or chairs to litter up the rooms. Then after we +were taken over some of the other rooms, we went back to the dining-room +and had a most exquisite Japanese vegetarian Buddhist lunch served--just +a sample, all on a little plate, but including the sweets for dessert, +five or six things all quite different and elegantly cooked. Also three +kinds of tea. + +Politeness is so universal here that when we get back we shall either be +so civil that you won't know us, or else we shall be so irritated that +nobody is sufficiently civil that you won't know us either. Mr. X---- +took me in his car and brought me back. When we got to the hall there +were five maids bowing and smiling to get our slippers and hang up our +coats and hats. Just going in or out is like going to a picnic; I think +the maids enjoy this change in their regular work, for they really +smile, as if they were having the time of their lives. If it is +perfunctory and put on, they have me fooled. + +Well, I'll spare you all any philosophical reflections this trip. +Besides, I've been too busy having a good time to think of any. They +will probably grow spontaneously in China. I forgot whether I told you +in my last letter that the Minister of the Interior has given me a +monthly and renewable pass first class on the Japanese railways. A +friend here asked him for one for Mamma, too, but he said he was very +sorry, that privilege could not be extended to a woman. So I'm the only +grafter in the family. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but shall +make one at the first opportunity in order to get the sensation. + + + + +TOKYO, Friday, February 28. + + +I don't get much sightseeing done except in the way of seeing street +sights. I am generally accompanied when I take a walk for exercise and +always taken by some new way. The other evening we went out after dinner +and took a walk to a lively street not far off--booksellers with their +things spread out on the sidewalk or rather road, little lunch wagons, +crowded streets and shops--they have electricity everywhere, and some +geisha girls trotting along with maids to carry their samisens. We went +into a Japanese movie beside rubbering at everything and then went into +a Japanese restaurant. Their eating places here are specialized--this +was a noodle shop, and we tried three kinds, one wheat in a soup, one +buckwheat with fried shrimps, and another cold with seaweed. For the +entire lot for the two of us it cost 27 cents American money, and the +place, which was an ordinary one, was cleaner than any American one, +even the best. The movie story seemed more complicated than any of ours, +and was certainly slower, because there is a man and a woman in a little +coop near the curtain who say what the actors are saying whenever their +lips move, this gives a chance of course for more talk. There were a few +knockouts and a murder and a villain and a persecuted damsel, and an +attempted suicide to provide thrills, but I couldn't make out what it +was about even with the aid of the guide with me. Such are simple +pleasures here, save that when we walk in the daytime we generally go to +a temple where on the whole the people are more interesting than the +temples, though sometimes the layout of trees is beautiful and gives +much the same effect of religious calm as a cathedral. In general the +similarity between worship here and the country Italian Catholicism is +more striking than anything else. They are slightly more naïve here--to +see the dolls, woolly dogs, and pinwheels at the shrines of the +children's gods, besides their straw slippers, straw sandals and an +occasional child's kimono is quite touching, also sometimes a mother has +cut off her hair and pinned it up as an offering. Other things are as +humorous as these are pathetic, such as making spitballs of written +prayers and pasting the god with them. Some of the gods are now +protected by wire netting on this account. I have got fairly well used +to the street scenes now and can tell most of the kinds of shops, such +as an undertaker's from a cooper's. What makes the street so interesting +is that you can look in and see everything going on. I forgot to mention +the most interesting street thing I've seen, a bird catcher with a long +limed pole like a bamboo fishing rod, a basket with a valve door to put +them in and some other utensils. I didn't see him catch any, though. + + + + +Sunday Morning, March 2. + + +I am writing early because we are going to-day to Kamakura. You have +probably heard of the big bronze Buddha--fifty feet high--well, that is +there. A friend has arranged an interview for us with the most +distinguished or most learned of the Buddhist priests in Japan--who +belongs to the most philosophical of all the sects, the Zen, which +believes in the simple life and is more or less Stoical; this is the +sect that had the greatest influence on the warrior class in the good +old days. Kamakura is on the other side of Yokohama, an old Shogun +capital; has lots of historic shrines, etc. + +Yesterday I made my first speech with an interpreter to a teachers' +association, some five hundred in all, mostly elementary school teachers +conspicuous for the fact that only about twenty-five were women. In the +evening we went to a supper and reception of the English-Speaking +Society, Americans and Japanese, mostly the latter; both men and women +and the most generally sociable thing we have seen yet. We have heard +said it was the only place in Tokyo where Japanese men and women really +met in a free sociable way, and the president said that when Japanese +met for sociable purposes they were reserved and stiff--at least till +the wine went round--as long as they spoke Japanese, but speaking +English brought back the habits they got in America and thawed them +out--an interesting psychological observation on the effect of language. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4. + + +You would be surprised to see how free from all affectations this +country has remained, at least so far as we see it. There is a social +democracy here that we do not know. All Japan is talking democracy now, +which is to be taken in the sense of representative government rather +than in the sense of tearing down the present form of government. The +representation in elections here now does not seem to extend much +further, if any, than to include those large taxpayers who would under +any system be a force in forming policy. The extension of the suffrage +is the great question under discussion at present. That and the +expansion of special education for men are the turning points for the +coming legislators. Japan has acquired many new millionaires during the +war and those men are already founding new schools for vocational +purposes for men. Four hundred and forty students are to be sent abroad +with a very generous allowance for living in the different foreign +countries, none of them women, and no women are mentioned in any of the +new appropriation bills. Not even a mention of the needs for women. + +Yesterday, to begin, was spent thus: It was the famous festival of +dolls. In the morning I made a dress for a poor sort of foreign doll I +had hunted out for a little girl. It was all American. Another +ridiculous imitation of American baby, looking half caste Japanese, has +still to be dressed when I can find the material for long clothes, but I +presented it as is. They invited me in to see their exhibition. Some of +their dolls are two hundred years old from their mothers' family. I +shall try to find some literature on this festival as it is too long to +write about. But it is true that one begins immediately to get the +passion for dolls; they are not dead things like ours, but works of art +symbolic of all the different phases of national life. The little girls +were delighted with their possessions. If I had only known about this I +should have known what to bring to Japan for gifts, instead of feeling +as helpless as I did. If you come, bring dolls. + +In the afternoon I was invited to go to the best or one of the best +collections in the country and that was a great experience. It began +very painfully for me because I got lost and was three-quarters of an +hour late at the Imperial Hotel from which we started. The family that +owns this famous collection is very old and the wife is the daughter of +a Daimyo, hence the dolls are very old. And they are wonderful, and more +wonderful still their housekeeping equipment of old lacquer and +porcelain and glass. The doll refreshments are served in tiny dishes on +tiny tables while the guests sit on the floor, the hostess and her +family doing all the serving. We had the thick white wine made from rice +poured out of wonderful little decanters into tiny glasses. We drank to +the health of the family and the stuff is delicious, with an aroma such +as no honey can excel. After these refreshments we were shown the room +for the tea ceremony and then taken back into the foreign part of the +house for real refreshments, which consisted of many and wonderful +varieties of cakes. The tea was served in cups with saucers decorated +with plum blossoms, this being the time of plum blossoms. Then tea cups +taken away and cups of rich chocolate placed on the tables. These tables +were high enough for the ordinary chairs. All the foreign houses are +very ugly in style but very comfortable and mid-Victorian. The Baroness +urged us to eat special cakes and we left stuffed. One kind is in the +form of a beautiful pink leaf wrapped in a cherry leaf which has been +preserved from last year. The leaf gives the cake a delicious flavor and +also a cover to protect the fingers from its stickiness. Then three +little round brown cakes looking some like chocolate--on a skewer. You +bite off the first one whole, then slip the other two as you eat them. +Those alone are enough for a meal and very nourishing. All cakes are +made from bean paste or like our richest pastries. When that second meal +was finished, we said good-bye. The Baroness and her three pretty +daughters and her sister all followed us to the outer door and when our +auto drove off the last thing we saw were the bows of the butlers and +these pretty ladies, all saying one more harmonious good-bye. The young +girls dress in kimonos of wool muslin of the brightest colors and +designs which are conceivable even to the Japanese imagination. They +look like a very profusely blooming garden of old fashioned perennials. + +The garden is indescribable. I had some fancy of what a Japanese garden +would look like, but find it is nothing at all beside the reality. This +place is big and the grass is now brown. Most of the grass is covered +with a thick carpet of pine needles and at the edge of the pine needle +carpet a rope of twisted straw outlines graceful curves. The use of the +big stones is the most surprising part of the whole. They are very old +and weather-stained, of many shades of gray and blue-gray, with the +short shrubs for a background, and the severity and simplicity of the +result has a classic beauty which we may attain in centuries, and only +after we have consumed our abundance of things material. + +Then we went to dinner at the house of Professor M----. There are six +children in his family, the oldest a man of about twenty-five, a +graduate of the Imperial University, now a factory inspector for the +government; he speaks eight languages. One of these is Esperanto, which +is his hobby. The French Professors were there also, two of them, a +clever and amusing pair, who did their duty in talking, and the young +man spoke better than any of us and with an excellent pronunciation. He +has never been out of Japan. Two little girls and a young boy appeared +after dinner and made their pretty bows to the floor, and then went to a +low table and squatted and played Go the rest of the evening. Go is the +famous shell game. Go means five and it is a game of fives, but ask me +no more, except that the men are 364 in number and you play it on an +expanded checker board. There was an endless succession of food and +drinks and we did not leave till nearly eleven. Japanese families have +many nice drinks which we do not. Theirs are perhaps no better than our +best ones, but they add to the pleasant variety of non-alcoholic drinks. +Besides those we had two wines. + +This was the dinner as near as I can remember. A menu card was at each +plate and I fancy they were intended as souvenirs for the foreign +guests, but I forgot to take mine, if that was their purpose. We had +soup, bread of two kinds, and butter. Then fish patties, then little +birds, boned, on toast with a vegetable, then ramekins of Japanese +macaroni, which is not like ours. Next roast beef, very tender fillet, +with potato balls, peas, gravy, another vegetable forgot, and salad, +white and red wine, coming after the orange cider. Then a delicious +pudding, then cake and strawberries. Those berries are raised out of +doors. They are planted between rows of stones which are heated +artificially, I did not quite understand how, the vines being kept from +touching the stones by low bamboo trellises. Whipped cream served with +the berries. Then delicious coffee in foreign style. + +After dinner we leave the reception room in foreign style and go +upstairs to the big Japanese room, sit by the hibashi or the grate, and +here the children come. At once tea is served. Then just as we were +starting for home we were urged to stay for a drink, which was more +orange cider, very sweet, and bottled waters, which are so good and come +from the many natural springs. One of the amusements of the Japanese is +seeing the foreign visitors try to sit, and you can't wonder they are +amused. I can manage it, in awkward fashion, but your father can't even +bend for the pose. On Sunday we sat for two hours in the presence of the +greatest Buddhist priest in Japan, and you can guess whether we wriggled +and if my feet were asleep if you try the pose for a few minutes +yourself, even on a nice soft cushion as we were. Getting up properly is +the hardest part of it. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4. + + +Our friends took us to Kamakura; it isn't interesting reading these +things in advance in guide books, so I don't think a description will be +interesting, but something over seven hundred years ago, the first +Shogun rulers settled there and made it their capital, of which nothing +is now left save the Buddhist temples. We met on the train going down +the professor of Japanese literature in the University, who was going +there because it was the seventh hundred anniversary of a Shogun who +wrote poetry, and the professor was going over to lecture on his poems. +Also we ran across several hundred school children, boys and girls with +their teachers, who were spending Sunday seeing the historic sights. One +of the big temples to the god of war was a kind of museum, with old +swords and masks and things in it. They took us to call on the Reverend +Shaku, who is the head of the Zen sect of Buddhists in Japan, and who +talked--including the interpreter--about two hours, in answer to +questions about Buddhism, especially his variety. It was very +interesting. We were ushered into a Japanese room, beautiful +proportions, a lovely kakemono in the alcove--it's a scroll, not a +kimono--and a five-legged little table made of metal with +mother-of-pearl inlay. Otherwise nothing but the room with gorgeous blue +and gold chrysanthemums alternating on the paneled ceiling and five silk +cushions scattered around for us to sit on, and a single one at the end +of the room for him. In about five minutes another screen door opened +and he appeared in a gorgeous but simple flowing robe, copper colored. +Then tea and sponge cake--meantime the talk fest had begun. Incidentally +I should remark that the bowing and kneeling of the servants looks much +more natural and less servile when you see people seated on the floor, +and the servants have to kneel to hand them anything. His personality is +that of a scholarly type, rather ascetic, not over refined, but not in +the least sleek like some of our Hindu swamis, and very charming. When +we left he thanked us for coming and expressed his great satisfaction +that he had made some friends. His talk was largely moral but with a +high metaphysical flavor, somewhat elusive, and reminding one of Royce. +Well it was an experience worth having, as he is reputed the most +learned and representative Buddhist in Japan, and as I have remarked +before, seeing is quite different from reading. He was more modern than +Royce in one respect; he said God is the moral ideal in man and as man +develops the divine principle does also. We saw the big fifty-foot +bronze statue of Buddha, in some respects the most celebrated single +thing in Japan and again one you have to see. It is as impressive as a +cathedral. + +We have been to a dinner party since I began this. Our host seems to be +a universal genius--a member of the house of peers, an authority on +education, an orchid fancier, a painter and I don't know what. There +were over twenty at table, and our health was drunk in champagne with a +little speech, and two members of the cabinet were there. The Countess +is the mother of eight children, and looks about thirty and very pretty +for thirty. Three or four of the little girls were about before and +after dinner, and, like several of the little girls of the new +generation, are as spontaneous and natural as you would wish. Acquired +characteristics are certainly hereditary in Japan, for even the most +lively and spontaneous children are civilized. Whatever else you think +about the Japanese they are about the most highly civilized people on +earth, perhaps overcultivated. I asked Mamma when these girls would +undergo the clammifying process and have all their life taken out of +them, and she said never for these girls. + +President Naruse died this morning; as he had cancer, it was fortunate +he did not linger longer. He was one of the most remarkable men in +Japan. Two days before he died the Empress sent him a present of five +thousand dollars for his school--a very great tribute and one which will +help the cause of woman's education. Speaking of this family where we +dined, you can judge of the high aristocracy of our hosts of the evening +by the fact that when they showed us the dolls' festival, there were +some fine ones which had been sent the Countess by the Imperial +Princesses. The dolls by the way are never played with--they are works +of art and history to look at. These children got out their American +dolls, of which they had ten, to show Mamma. + + + + +March 5. + + +I have now given three lectures. They are a patient race; there is still +a good-sized audience, probably five hundred. We are gradually getting a +superficial acquaintance with a good many people, and if I could get two +or three weeks free from lectures to prepare I could make a business of +finding things out, but as it is I only accumulate certain impressions. +There is no doubt a great change is going on; how permanent it will be +depends a good deal upon how the rest of the world behaves. If it +doesn't live up to its peaceful and democratic professions, the +conservative bureaucrats and militarists, who of course are still very +strong, will say we told you so and there will be a backset. But if +other countries, and especially our own, behave decently, the +democratizing here will go on as steadily and as rapidly as is +desirable. + + + + +TOKYO, Monday, March 10. + + +Yesterday we had our first taste of the Noh drama. We got there before +nine in the morning, and I left before two to go to Mr. Naruse's +funeral, but Mamma stayed till nearly three when she had to go to speak +at a school. Mamma can give you a much more intelligent idea of it than +I can, but the building is a kind of barnlike structure--the Elizabethan +theater with a vengeance, and no stage properties except some little +live pines and a big painted one, and except costumes which are rich and +expensive and the masks which are likewise. It is an acquired taste, but +one which can be acquired very rapidly. If they weren't done with such +extraordinary art and technique they would probably be stupid, to a +foreigner anyway, but as it is they are fascinating, though it is hard +to say what the source of the fascination is aside from the perfection +of technique. Conscious control was certainly born and bred in Japan. + +Mr. Naruse had a very strong hold on people, and his funeral was an +event--all the autos and most of the 'rickshas in Tokyo must have been +there, and some eight or ten speakers, and even to me who could +understand nothing it was very impressive. One of the civilized things +is that before the speaker bowed to the audience--and they all bowed +back--he bowed to the remains, Which were in a coffin on the platform +with flowers, and more flowers than at an American funeral. + +We were to have gone to Baron Shibusawa's for tea and dinner this +afternoon, but his influenza has gone into pneumonia. + +To go back to Saturday. The reception was pleasant. We met the Americans +who are educators and in the missionary schools and colleges; +intelligent and well disposed, so far as I have seen. The criticism of +the missionaries seems to be rather cooked up. Just now there is a fuss +over them in Korea, because there is some agitation going on there for +independence, and it seems to have started with Koreans who had been in +missionary schools. The missionaries here seem much divided, some of +them blaming the missionaries over there, saying they will bring +Christianity into disrepute everywhere in Japan, and some saying that it +proves Christian teaching amounts to something and that it will have a +good effect in improving conditions, leading to foreign criticism and +publicity, and causing the Japanese to modify their colonial policy, +which seems to be under military rather than civil control. There is a +rumor that the ex-Emperor of Korea didn't die a natural death, but +committed suicide, with the hope of putting off or preventing the +marriage of his oldest son to a Japanese princess--they were to have +been married very soon. No one seems to know whether the story was +invented to encourage the revolutionaries in Korea or has truth in it. +Meanwhile they say the wedding is going to take place, and the Japanese +are sorry for their poor princess, who is sacrificed to marry a +foreigner. + +Thursday evening Mamma invited the X----'s and some others, eight +including ourselves, to supper in a Japanese restaurant, a beef +restaurant--they are all specialized--where we not only sat on the floor +and ate with chop sticks, but where the little slices of thin beefsteak +were brought in raw with vegetables to flavor, and cooked over a little +pan on a charcoal hibashi, one fire to each two persons. Naturally it +was lots of fun, a kind of inside picnic. + +Oh, yes, something happened Friday. We went to the Imperial Museum in +the morning and the curator showed us about--I won't describe a +museum--but on the way home we were taken into a pipe store and Mamma +purchased three little Japanese pipes, ladies' pipes, to take home. +Quite cunning, and the dealer said this was the first time he had ever +sold anything to a foreigner, so he presented her with a little ladies' +pouch and a pipe holder, both made from Holland cloth, not anything very +precious, but probably worth as much as her entire purchase, certainly +more than the profit on his sales. These things are quite touching and +an offset to the stories about their bad business methods, because it is +really a matter of hospitable courtesy to the foreigner, though he said +himself they generally put the price up for the foreigner on antiques. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, March 14. + + +We have just had a mild picnic. Mamma has a slight cold, so the maids +brought her supper up to her and for sociability brought mine up too. +Mamma got out a Japanese phrase book and pronounced various phrases to +them; to see them giggle and bend double, no theater was ever so funny. +When I got to my last bite, I inquired the name of the food, and said it +and "Sayonara"--good night. This old gag was a triumph of humor. They +are certainly a good-natured people. I have watched the children come +out from a public school near here, and never yet have I seen a case of +bullying or even of teasing, except of a very good-natured kind, no +quarreling and next to no disputing. Yet they are sturdy little things +and no mollycoddles. To see a boy of ten or twelve playing tag and +jumping ditches with a boy strapped to his back is a sight. There are no +public rebukes or scoldings of the children or even cross words, to say +nothing of slappings, no nagging, at least not in public. Some would say +that the children are not scolded because they are good, but it is a +fair guess that it is the other way. But it must be admitted that so far +as amiable exterior and cheerfulness and courtesy is concerned, they +have no bad examples set them. Some foreigners say all this is only skin +deep, but the manners of the foreigners who say these things aren't any +too good even from our standards. Anyway, skin deep is better than +nothing and good as far as it goes. However, the Japanese say that their +courtesy is reserved for their friends and people they know, not that +they have bad manners to strangers, but that they pay no attention to +them, and won't go out of their way to do anything for them. + +I told about the man who made Mamma a present when she bought the pipes. +Yesterday we were in that region and Mamma went in again and bought +another, and paid him a compliment on what people said about the +present. Whereupon he gets up and fishes out another more valuable +pouch, somewhat ragged and old, the kind the actors now use on the +stage, and offers it. Mamma naturally tries to avoid it, but can't. He +informs her through the friend with us that he likes Americans very +much. An international matter having been made of it, the pouch is +accepted, and now we have to think up some present to give him. However, +we have told this story to several Americans here, and they say they +have never heard anything like it. + +We were to have gone to the Peeress's School this morning, an +appointment having been made to show us about. Mamma's cold preventing +her going, we had somebody 'phone to see if the time could be changed. +And this afternoon appear for her some lovely lilies and +amaryllis--these being from people we had never seen. A Freudian would +readily infer how bad my own manners are from the amount I talk about +this. + +We went to a Japanese restaurant for supper. This was a fish restaurant, +and we cooked the fish and vegetables ourselves, but over gas, not +charcoal this time. Then we had side dishes, fish, lobster, etc., +innumerable. Instead of bringing you in a bill of fare to order from, +the coolie brings a big tray with samples of everything on it, and you +help yourself. One thing was abalones on the half shell, these being +babies, about like our clams, but not so tough, to say nothing of as +tough as the big ones. I didn't try the fried devil fish and other +luxuries, but wandered pretty far afield. When you have leisure, try +eating lobster in the shell with chop sticks. You will resort to +something more ancient than chop sticks, as I did. This restaurant is +quite plebeian, though it has a great reputation for its secret recipe +for the sauce the fish is cooked in, but it was considerably more +expensive than the other--probably because we sampled so many side +dishes; the other one cost less than five dollars for eight people--good +food and all anybody could eat. + + + + +TOKYO, March 14th. + + +The ceremony of breakfast is over, and I am sorry again you cannot all +share in these daily festivals which add so much to the dignity of +living. We are now studying Japanese with the aid of the maids. I missed +going to the Dolls' Festival at a private kindergarten and the +result--this morning by mail a postcard from the children with numerous +presents made by them, all dolls, and those I will send home, as they +are interesting. With the presents they say: "We made cakes and prepared +for your coming and we were in the depths of despair when you did not +come. Please come another time." I am sure there is no other country in +the world like this. The language is an impossible one. The way given in +the phrases of the guide book is the way the man speaks. So when I +stammer off those phrases the girls are literally tickled to death. When +they tell me what I ought to say in the more elaborated polite way of +the women, then I am floored. It is all an amusing game and relieves the +watch they keep on each bite we take so as to be ready to supply more. +Everything they do is marked with the kindliest attitude and every act +or move is one of friendship. + +This is the program for to-day: Go to lunch at the house of some +missionaries, then to father's lecture at 3:30, then to dinner for +University of Chicago students. To-morrow will be an open day for me and +the little secretary will take me shopping. The big department store is +the fashionable place where all the noble and rich buy their kimonos, +and I may supplement my secondhand attempts with a new one. When I get +to Kyoto I hope to find a real old one, as the new style of weave are +infected with foreign influence. The other evening with Y---- we found a +little shop for antiques which is a gem to look at. An old man and his +wife, Y---- says he bets they are Samurai, with the politeness of real +nobles, and their little place as carefully arranged for beauty as if it +were their home--which it is. I broke an old Kutani plate and I inquired +for one there. They had none, but we looked at their things, they with +many bows, and when we left said we were sorry to have troubled them for +nothing. They replied, "Please excuse us for not having the thing you +wanted." + +To-morrow we go to lunch here in the neighborhood with a very clever and +interesting family (of a professor). None of the women call, at least +none of the married ones, all being afraid of their English for one +reason, but I am learning to just take things as they come and not to +bother over formalities, never knowing whether that is the best way or +not. The wedding of last Tuesday was the most interesting function I +have seen. The marriage ceremony was the Christian one. The company +represented the rich and fashionable of the city. The ladies all wear +black crepe kimonos, that splendid crepe which is so heavy, next under +the black is an all white of soft china silk, then the third of bright +color. K----'s was that bright vermilion red. Her sleeves were not very +long, as she is a mother, but the young girls wear bright colored +kimonos and long sleeves that almost touch the floor. The bride wears +black, too. All these dress-up kimonos have decorations in color, +sometimes embroidered and sometimes dyed on the lower points of the +front. The bride's was spread out on the floor around her just like the +old pictures, embroidered in heavy rose peonies, her undergarment and +the lining of the black, in rose color. Her hair was done in the old +conventional way shown in the prints with the long pins of light +tortoise shell with bouquets of tiny flowers carved at the ends, which +stuck out about three inches, making a crown over her head. The +receiving party is as follows: First, father of groom; second, mother of +bride; third, groom; fourth, bride; fifth, father of bride; sixth, +mother of groom. The line is straight and the bride is perfectly +arranged like an old print, she and the groom with their eyes cast down. +As each person passes, they make bows all along the line at once, but +they do not move hand or eyes or a fold of these perfect clothes. I +forgot to say the men, unfortunately, wear European dress. Then we moved +on to two large rooms, the men all seated and smoking in one, and the +women in the other. Those who knew me were very kind. Countess H---- +introduced me to the bridesmaids; at least they would be the maids at +home. They were the sisters and young relatives all dressed in the most +brilliant kimonos and embroidered and decorated to the limit; they +looked like all the parrots and peacocks and paradise and blue birds and +every lovely color imaginable, while the uniform black of the guests, +decorated with the pure white of their crests which stand out in such a +group, formed the perfect background, free from all the messiness which +is so apparent in a diversified gathering of all sorts of color and +shape and materials in our land. At tea, which was very elaborate and +taken sitting at the tables, the family of the two filled one table, a +long one at the end of the room. The bride now wore a green kimono, +equally brilliant; about two feet away from her sat the groom, both in +the middle of the long table. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, March 20. + + +We have had a number of social events this week. Tuesday evening General +H----, who speaks no English but who came over on the _Shinyo_ with us, +gave a party for us in the gardens of the Arsenal Grounds. We could not +have entered the Arsenal Grounds in any other way. There were about +twenty-five people there, mostly Christian Association people, and the +clergyman of the Japanese church where I had spoken the night before. He +is keen about introducing more democracy in Japan, and I spoke on the +moral meaning of democracy. Well, the garden isn't a garden at all in +our sense, but a park, and the finest in Tokyo outside of the Imperial +ones. It is quite different from the miniature ones we know as Japanese +gardens, being of fair size, with none of those cunning little +imitations in it; big imitations there are in plenty, as it was a fad of +the old landscapists, as you might know, to reproduce on a small scale +celebrated scenes elsewhere. The old Daimyo, who built this one two +hundred years ago, was a great admirer of the Chinese and reproduced +several famous Chinese landscapes as well as one from Kyoto. The +extraordinary thing is the amount of variety they get in a small space; +they could reproduce the earth, including the Alps and a storm in the +Irish Channel, if they had Central Park. Every detail counts; it is all +so artistically figured out and every little rock has a meaning of its +own so that a barbarian can only get a surface view. It would have to be +studied like an artist's masterpiece to take it all in. The arsenal +factory fumes have killed many of the old trees and much of the glory +has departed. + +Probably Mamma has written you that she has one young woman, Japanese, +coming on the ship with us under her care, to New York to study; and +to-day another young lady called, and said she wanted to go back to +America. About the young women going home with us, Y---- said we would +have to be careful, as one time his mother was offered seventeen damsels +to escort when she was going over, of whom she took three. You may not +appreciate the fact that going to America to study means practically +giving up marriage; they will be old maids and out of it by the time +they return--also those who have been in America do not take kindly to +having a marriage arranged for them. At a lecture I listened to +yesterday, a Japanese woman, close to thirty, was pointed out to me as +about to get married to an American architect here. There are +exceptions, but this case is evidently a famous romance. The lecture was +on Social Aspects of Shinto; Shinto is the official cult though not the +established religion of Japan. Although nothing is said that wasn't +scientifically a matter of course to be said--I mean supposing it was +scientifically correct--one of the most interesting things was the +caution that was taken to avoid publication of anything said. On one +side the Imperial Government is theocratic, and this is the most +sensitive side, so that historical criticism or analysis of old +documents is not indulged in, the Ancestors being Gods or the Gods being +Ancestors. One bureaucratic gentleman felt sure that the divine +ancestors must have left traces of their own language somewhere, so he +investigated the old shrines, and sure enough he found on some of the +beams characters different from Chinese or Japanese. These he copied and +showed for the original language--till some carpenters saw them and +explained that they were the regular guild marks. + + + + +KAMAKURA, Thursday, March 27. + + +This weather beats Chicago for changeableness. Monday, at midnight, it +was storming rain; when we got up the next day it was the brightest, +warmest day we have had. We spent it sightseeing and went out without an +overcoat. The magnolia trees are in full bloom. Yesterday and to-day are +as raw March days as I ever saw anywhere; there would have been frost +last night but for the wind. Tuberculosis is rife here and no wonder. + +Three of the University professors have called on me this morning. They +wish to arrange in every detail for our movements when we leave here. I +suppose I was asked twenty times how long we are to stay in Kamakura. +When I said I didn't know, it depended on weather and other things, they +said, "Oh, yes," and in five minutes asked the same question again. +Whether they arrange everything in minute detail for themselves in +advance or whether they think we are helpless foreigners I can't make +out; some of both, I think. But they can't understand that we can't give +an exact date for everything we are going to do till we go to China. At +the same time I never knew anybody to change their own plans, especially +socially, as much as they do. + +There is a great anti-American drive on now; seems to be largely +confined to newspapers, but also stimulated artificially somewhat, +presumably by the militaristic faction, which has lost more prestige in +the last few months than in years, with a corresponding gain in liberal +sentiment. They have consequently found it necessary to do something to +come back. Criticism of the United States is the easiest way to arrest +the spread of liberal sentiments and strengthen the arguments for a big +militaristic party, like twisting the lion's tail with us. Discussion +about race discrimination is very active and largely directed against +the United States in spite of Australia and Canada, and also in spite of +the fact that Chinese and Korean immigration here is practically +forbidden, and they discriminate more against the Chinese than we do +against them. But consistency is not the strong point of politics in any +country. Excepting on the subject of race discrimination, foreigners in +contact with Japanese do not find the anti-American feeling which is +expressed in papers. If the Anglo-Japanese treaty of alliance should +lapse because of the League of Nations or anything else, America will be +held responsible, even if the British are the cause. Two years ago there +was a similar anti-British drive here, and pretty hard bargains were +driven with the British ally in all war matters. Now that Germany and +Russia are out of it, England has no apparent reason for snuggling up +much and the shoe is on the other foot. Which makes the attack on the +U.S. all the more stupid, as they are internationally quite lonely, even +if they tie up with France on account of similar Russian interests, +financial and otherwise. + + + + +TOKYO, Wednesday, March 28. + + +To-morrow we are going to Kamakura again; it is only an hour and a half +from here. We are going to take a little trip into the mountain and +hot-spring district also, but the cherry blossom season is much +advanced, ten days earlier than usual, and we are afraid it will spring +itself in our absence if we go far, so probably we shall be back here in +a few days for about a week. Then we shall take a five-day trip on our +way to Kyoto, going to the shrine at Ise. This is the oldest and most +sacred Shinto shrine in Japan, which means that it is the central spot +for imperial ancestor worship. Speaking of ancestors, you remember our +references to the Count. The father of his first wife has recently been +made a Baron. Parliament being over, the Count has left for the southern +Island to inform the ancestors of his first wife, who are buried there, +of the important item of family gossip. The oldest liberal statesman of +aristocratic descent, who was quite intimate with the late Emperor, +won't go to the annual meeting to celebrate the granting of the +Constitution by the late Emperor because he is so disgusted that no more +progress has been made in constitutionalism, and says he cannot meet his +late master until he can report progress to him. Otherwise he would be +ashamed to meet him as he feels responsible to the Emperor. This would +not be any place for a spiritualist to earn his living. They are clear +past mediums. + +We have chiefly been eating lately. I had two Japanese meals, a la chop +sticks, yesterday and one to-day. Luncheon yesterday at a restaurant, +where we had lots of things you never heard of, to say nothing of eating +them, and a dinner at a friend's. There were twelve courses at table and +two or three afterwards--not counting tea, and much the same at another +dinner to-night. We have a bill of fare written on fans, only in +Japanese, and little silver salt cellars as souvenirs besides. One +feature of both dinners was soup three times, at the beginning, about +the middle and again at closing, at these functions rice is not served +till near the last course. Then there were one or two semi-soupy courses +thrown in. I can eat raw fish and ask no questions; and in a bird +restaurant, Sunday for luncheon, I ate raw chicken wrapped in seaweed; +abalone is my middle name, and some of the shell fish we eat is probably +devil fish. + +We have been here over six weeks now, and in taking an inventory it can +be said that while we have not done as much sightseeing as some six-day +tourists, I think we have seen more Japanese under normal home +conditions than most Americans in six months, and have seen an unusually +large number of people to talk to, not the official crowd but the +representative intellectual liberals. I have seen less but found out +more than I ever expected about Japanese conditions, which is quite the +opposite of European experience in traveling. When I come back I shall +try to see a few of the official people, since I now know enough to +judge what they may say. On the whole, America ought to feel sorry for +Japan, or at least sympathetic with it, and not afraid. When we have so +many problems it seems absurd to say they have more, but they certainly +have fewer resources, material and human, in dealing with theirs than we +have, and they have still to take almost the first step in dealing with +many of them. It is very unfortunate for them that they have become a +first-class power so rapidly and with so little preparation in many +ways; it is a terrible task for them to live up to their position and +reputation and they may crack under the strain. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, April 1. + + +The Japanese do one thing that we should do well to imitate. They teach +the children in school a very nice lesson about the beauty and the +responsibility of being polite and kind to the foreigner, like being so +to the guests of your own house. This adds to the national dignity. + +Yesterday the Emperor got out and I caught him at it. Quite an amazing +and lucky experience for me and no harm to him, as I had not known he +ever went out before I picked him up in the street. I went down our hill +as usual with a friend to take the car. At this side of the street where +the car passes, we walk across the bridge on the canal and then turn and +walk one block to the car stop. When we got to the other side of the +bridge all the people on both sides of the street were massed in a nice +little quiet line and three policemen were carefully and gently placing +each one according to his height so he could see as well as possible. So +we lined in with the rest while the policeman looked on in an +encouraging fashion. Nobody spoke out loud, and after I had noticed the +friend with me having a conversation with the officer, I ventured to ask +why we were left standing there. With the same quiet, she said: "The +Emperor is passing on his way to the commencement exercises of Waseda +University." Well, you could have knocked me over with a feather. I +don't suppose I should have known what was happening at all unless I +could have figured it out from the Chrysanthemums on the carriage doors. +I said to her: "How is he coming, in an automobile? How long are we to +stand here?" I had visions of the stories about the streets being +cleared, and the doors shut for some hours while white sand was +sprinkled over the car tracks, and all the rest. "No," she said, "just a +little time." I saw by now that I was not likely to have much gossip +poured out to me about the Emperor, so I just fixed a nice little thing +about three years old in front of me and then we waited with the rest of +the school children. Soon the procession came, first a body of horse in +plain khaki uniforms, then one very Japanese-looking man alone on the +back seat in one of the light victorias, very clean and shiny, with the +Chrysanthemums on the door. He was dressed in a khaki wool uniform just +like the rest of the army with a cap on his head. Then came some other +shiny, light little victorias with two horses, all just alike. I +rubbered my best and I had a very good look at the one little man alone +in the middle of the seat, and sitting up and looking straight ahead of +him pleasantly. In the midst of the passing I asked the companion with +me, "Which is the Emperor?" and she answered "The one in the first +carriage," and still there was that quiet of perfect breeding; and by +and by all the nice little soldiers on horseback passed, and after I had +stood a little longer on the edge of my bridge I started our little +procession moving towards the car. The Emperor had gone the opposite +way. After a little I said: "I did not know the Emperor went to +commencements and things like that," and I chattered on, and then my +companion said in her slow, proper, calm tone: "That is my first +experience to see the Emperor, too." And I said "Is that so?" and asked +some more questions, still wondering that no one had called out a Banzai +nor made a sound, and it is not till to-day that I learned that all the +people were standing with their eyes cast down to the ground, and that I +was the only one who looked at the Emperor, and their reverence was so +great that that was the reason I had not heard them breathe. For another +thing, Waseda is the liberal university and private, so I wondered still +till I learned then that the Emperor was going to the Peers' School +commencement, and that is the one commencement he goes to every year. So +you see I had luck, and my conscience was clear for having rubbered, and +I have seen the Emperor. + +The Imperial Garden party comes off the week after we leave Tokyo. To +this party all the nobles of the third rank and above, and all the +professors in the Imperial University, and all the foreigners of latest +arrival, are asked. So a foreigner can go just once and no more unless a +Professor. We put our names down in the Ambassador's book for an +invitation before we knew all the niceties of the case. So now that we +have learned that we can go once and no more, and that we are expected +to go if we are invited, we will take back our request for an invitation +as the party is on the 17th of April, and we are to be in Kyoto on the +15th. So in our good luck, a daughter of a Baron, who is a member of the +Imperial household, has asked us to go with her to-morrow to see the +Imperial Garden where the party is to be and we may see the gardens all +the better. This Imperial Garden is one of the prince's gardens and not +the one behind the moat where the Emperor lives. It seems the fall +chrysanthemum party is in that garden, though never inside the inner +moat where no one goes unless he has an audience. The moat and the +surroundings of the palace are lovely, but as you can read the guide +book if you want a description, I will not bore you with an attempt. The +walls of the moat were built by labor of the feudal dependencies, and +like all such labor it spared no pains to be splendid. Some of the moats +have been filled up long ago, but there are still three around the +palace. Inside the outer one you may walk part of the time and see the +grand gates with their solemn guards. In these gardens the air is fresh +and the birds sing in the trees, and the dust of the city never gets +there. + +To-night I am wearing tabi, those nice little toe socks which will not +fit my feet, but which are so much nicer than the felt toe slippers that +fall off your feet every time you go upstairs. As a matter of fact, I +wear ordinary house slippers in this house, but it is nicer not to and +we always take them off when we come in from outdoors. Truly, the +Japanese are a cleaner people than we are. Have I told you we bathe in a +Japanese tub? Every night a hot, very hot wooden box over three feet +deep is filled for us. This one has water turned in from a faucet, but +in Kamakura the little charcoal stove is in the end of the tub and the +water is carried in by buckets, and is reheated each night. It seems all +right and I regret all the years our country went without bath tubs, and +all the fuss we made to get them when this little, simple device was all +there and as old as the hills. But we can catch up with the heating and +cooking with charcoal hibashi. + +We have learned to eat with chop sticks very well, and it is not a bad +way. The main objection I see to it is that one eats too fast, and +Fletcherizing is not known in this country. The nice little way of doing +your own cooking is something to introduce for cuteness in New York. +These last few days we have just been sightseeing in the real European +sense, running about town and buying small things all day and then +having the wonderful advantage of coming back to this delightful home of +perfect comfort at night, which is quite unlike Europe, and spoils us +for the common lot of knocking about. + +The greatest actor of the country is here. He belongs in Osaka, his name +is Ganjiro, and we have a box for Thursday. The play is the one that was +given in New York called "Bushido." It is much longer than as given +there. It is called by another name and is acted quite differently. On +Sunday we are going again to the Noh Dance, or if no good tickets are to +be had for that, we are going to a theater where women act all the parts +to offset the usual way here of having only men in the company. The men +who act women's parts here do make up very well. They live and dress and +act as women all the time so as not to lose the art. Only when they +stand in pose they cannot conceal the fact that they are men. The play +begins at one in the afternoon and lasts until ten at night. Tea and +dinner is brought into your box in those nice little lacquer lunch +boxes. Ganjiro is on the stage in every scene for eight hours, so you +can see the actors work for their art here. The costumes are superb, but +the actors do not simply strut to show off. Their speech being very +affected in manner they have had to depend upon expression to get +results, and as a consequence their acting is done with their entire +body more than any other school in the world. The best ones, like the +ones we are to see, can express any emotion, so 'tis said, with their +backs and the calves of their legs when you can't see their faces. + + + + +TOKYO, April 1. + + +Our activities of late have been miscellaneous; we spent three days, +counting coming and going four days, at Kamakura last week. It is on the +seaside and is a great resort, summer and winter, for the Japanese, and +at the hotel for Europeans over weekends. For summers the foreigners go +to the mountains, while the Japanese take to the seaside, largely +because there is more for the children to do on the seashore, but partly +because mountains seem to be an acquired taste. Kamakura is about ten +degrees warmer than Tokyo, as it is sheltered by the hills. Peas were in +blossom and the cherry trees all out. It was cold and rainy while we +were there, however, except one day, when we crowded in so much +sightseeing we got rather tired. Mamma and I are now catching up on +calls, prior to leaving and doing some sightseeing. To-day we went to a +shop where they publish very fine reproductions of the old art of Japan, +including Chinese paintings owned in Japan, much better worth buying +than the color print reproductions to my mind, though we have laid in +some reproductions of the latter. There are so many millionaires made by +the war in Japan, that lots of the old lords are selling out part of +their treasures now; prices I think are too high even for Americans. The +old Daimyo families evidently have enough business sense to take +advantage of the market, though some are hard up and sell more for that +reason. A week ago we went to an auction room where there was a big +collection of genuine old stuff, much finer than appears in the curio +shops, and this weekend there is another big sale by a Marquis. However, +it is said they keep the best things and unload on the nouveau riche; +not but what a lot of it is mighty good as it is. + +My other experience that I have not written about is seeing Judo. The +great Judo expert is president of a normal school, and he arranged a +special exhibition by experts for my benefit, he explaining the theory +of each part of it in advance. It took place Sunday morning in a big +Judo hall, and there were lots of couples doing "free" work, too; they +are too quick for my eye in that to see anything but persons suddenly +thrown over somebody's back and flopped down on the ground. It is really +an art. The Professor took the old practices and studied them, worked +out their mechanical principles, and then devised a graded scientific +set of exercises. The system is really not a lot of tricks, but is based +on the elementary laws of mechanics, a study of the equilibrium of the +human body, the ways in which it is disturbed, how to recover your own +and take advantage of the shiftings of the center of gravity of the +other person. The first thing that is taught is how to fall down without +being hurt, that alone is worth the price of admission and ought to be +taught in all our gyms. It isn't a good substitute for out-of-door +games, but I think it is much better than most of our inside formal +gymnastics. The mental element is much stronger. In short, I think a +study ought to be made here from the standpoint of conscious control. +Tell Mr. Alexander to get a book by Harrison--a compatriot of his--out +of the library, called "The Fighting Spirit of Japan." It is a +journalist's book, not meant to be deep, but is interesting and said to +be reliable as far as it goes. I noticed at the Judo the small waists of +all these people; they breathe always from the abdomen. Their biceps are +not specially large, but their forearms are larger than any I have ever +seen. I have yet to see a Japanese throw his head back when he rises. In +the army they have an indirect method of getting deep breathing which +really goes back to the Buddhist Zen teaching of the old Samurai. +However, they have adopted a lot of the modern physical exercises from +other armies. + +The gardens round here are full of cherry trees in blossom--and the +streets are full of people too full of saké. The Japanese take their +drunkenness apparently seasonly, as we hadn't seen drunken people till +now. + + + + +TOKYO, April 2. + + +We have had another great day to-day. This morning rose early and wrote +letters, which were not sent in spite of the haste, as we decided the +slow boat was slower than waiting for a later and faster one. So you +ought to get many letters at once. The day has been sunshiny and bright, +but not at all sultry, so perfect for getting about. We went to the art +store to get some prints which we had selected the day before and then +on to call on a Professor of Political Economy, who is also a member of +Parliament, radical and very wide awake and interesting, quite like an +American in his energy and curiosity and interest. We visited and +learned a lot about things here and there and then he took us to lunch +at his mother-in-law's house. They have a beautiful house in Japanese +style, with a foreign style addition, like most of the houses of the +rich, the Japanese part having no resemblance whatever to the foreign, +which is so much less beautiful. In carpets and table covers and +tapestries imitated from the German, the Japanese have no taste, while +in their own line they remain exquisite. This house is one of the most +absolute cleanliness. No floor in it but shines like a mirror and has +not a fleck of dust, never had one. Let me see if I can describe +accurately this entertainment. We took three 'rickshas and rode through +the cherry lined narrow streets over hills where are the lovely gardens +of the rich showing through the gateways and showing over the top of the +bamboo walls, which are built of poles about six feet long upright and +tied together with cords. They are very pretty with the green. When we +reached the house Mr. U---- took us in to the foreign drawing room, +which is very mid-Victorian and German in its general effect. This one +has in it a beautiful lacquer cabinet, very large and quite overpowering +every other thing in the room. There the ladies of the house came in and +made their bows, very amiable and smiling at our thanks for their +hospitality. The sister-in-law, a young girl of sixteen, who wants to go +to America, and afterwards the grandmother, very much the commanding +character that a grandmother ought to be. The children hovered round +them all much like our children. The ladies brought us tea with their +own hands in lovely blue and white cups with little lacquer stands and +covers. Candy with the tea, which was green. I forgot to say that we had +already, during the hour with Mr. U---- had tea three different times +and of three different kinds, besides little refreshments therewith. +After a little we were summoned to lunch. Three places set on a low +table and a beautiful blue brocade cushion to sit upon. The two younger +ladies on their knees ready to serve us. They poured out wine for us, or +Vermouth, and we took the latter. We had before us, each, one lacquer +bowl, covered, that contained the usual fish soup with little pieces of +fish and green things cut up in it. This we drink, putting the solid +bits into our mouths with the chop sticks. The grandmother thought she +ought to have prepared foreign food, but the clever girl of sixteen had +spoken for home food, and so we thanked them for giving that to us, as +we seldom get a real genuine Japanese meal. And this is the first we +have had where we were served by the ladies of the house, except the +dolls' food at the festival. It seems this is the highest compliment +that we have had, as the real Japanese home is open to the foreigner +only when the foreigner is asked to sit on the floor and is served by +the ladies of the household. They kneel near the table and the maid +brings the dishes and hands them to the ladies, who in turn serve the +dishes to the guests. It is very pretty. I have reached the stage where +I can sit on my heels for the length of a meal, but I rise very +awkwardly, as my feet are asleep clear up to my knees at the end. We ate +soup, cold fried lobster and shrimps, which are dipped in sauce besides; +and cold vegetables in another bowl, and then hot fried fish; then some +little pickles, then rice, of which the Japanese eat several bowls, then +the dessert, which has been beside you all the time, and is a cold +omelette, which tastes very good, and then they give you tea, Formosa +oolong. We had toast, too, but that is foreign. Then we left the table +and were shown the rooms upstairs, which contain many pieces of lacquer +and bronze and woodwork, and then we went down and there was tea and a +dish of fruit ready for us. We had not much time for this, as they were +going to send us in a motor to the Imperial Gardens. But as the last +kind of tea had to be brought we were at the door putting on our shoes +when it arrived. This tea is strong oolong and has milk in it, with two +lumps of sugar for you to put in yourself. Thus we had been served with +tea six times within three hours. + +It is hard to describe the Imperial Gardens. Read the guide book and you +will see that it is. Ten thousand orchid plants were the beginning of +the sight. We saw the lettuce and the string beans and the tomatoes and +potatoes and eggplant and melons, and all growing under glass, for the +Emperor to eat. Never saw such perfect lettuce, all the heads in one +frame of exactly the same size and arrangement, as if they were +artificial, and all the others just right. Why potatoes under glass? +Don't ask me. Grapes in pots looked as if the raising of grapes under +glass was in its beginning, but maybe not, as I was not familiar enough +with those little vines to know whether they would bear or not. The +flowers in the frames were perfection. Masses of Mignonette daisies, and +some other bright flowers I did not know were ready to put out in the +beds which were prepared for the garden party. We cannot go on the 17th. +A very large pavilion with shingle roof under which the Emperor and +Empress are to sit at the party is being built and will be taken down +the next day, or rather week, as it will take more than one day. Then if +it rains there will be no party. To-night it looks as if rain might +spoil the blossoms. But to-day was perfect. It is a little surprising +when one sees this famous garden after reading about Japanese gardens +for all one's life. There is such a large expanse of grass with no +flowers and the grass does not get green here so soon as with us, and it +is now all brown, though big masses of daffodils are superb. These under +the cherry trees with the sunshine shining through slantways made one of +the brilliant sights of a lifetime. The artificial lakes and rivers and +waterfall and the bridges and islands and hills with big birds walking +and swimming make enough to have come for to Japan. The groups of trees +are as fine as anything can be and across the long expanses the view of +them is like a succession of pictures. There are a hundred and +sixty-five acres in the park, no buildings. In the beginning it was +pretty well to one side of the city, but now it is on a car track of +much travel, though still on the outskirts on its outer edge. + +On Monday we have arranged to go to the theater again at the Imperial. +To-day it is the great actor Ganjiro at a small theater. It is said the +jealousy of the Tokyo actors and managers keeps Ganjiro from getting a +fair chance when he comes here. Mr. T----, formerly of Chicago, has just +been here to try to arrange a dinner for us before we leave, the dinner +to be at a restaurant with all the old students present. The restaurants +are always amusing and we agreed, of course. This may keep us in Tokyo +one day longer, though that is not decided yet. For the rest of the time +we are to make up on calls as far as we can and ride about to see the +cherry blossoms, and I hope we may see some of the famous tea houses. +Thus far we have seen no tea house at all, and there is not one +afternoon tea house where ladies go in this city excepting the +new-fashioned department stores, and they do not stand for anything +different than they do with us. This shows how little the real ladies of +Tokyo go out of their houses. + +The Sumida river is a big river gathering up all the small streams from +one side of the mountains. It is full of junks and other craft and is +the center of much history, both for Tokyo as a city and for the whole +country. + + + + +TOKYO, April 4. + + +Ganjiro, the greatest actor from Osaka, is acting here now, and the show +was great. He did the scene among other things they did in New York +under the name of "Bushido." A dance by a fox who had taken the form of +a man was a wonderful thing. There is no use in trying to describe it. +It was not just slow posturings, like the other Japanese dances we have +seen, nor was it as wild as the Russian dancers; he did it alone, no +companion, male or female. But it was as free as the Russian and much +more classic at the same time. You will never realize what the human +hand and arm can do until you see this. He put on a number of masks and +then acted or danced according to the type of mask he had on. He can do +an animal's motions without any clawing--as graceful and lithe as a cat. +He is a son of an old man Ganjiro. + +Our last days here are rather crowded and we aren't going to get the +things done that should be done. Cherry blossoms are at their +height--another thing indescribable, but if dogwood trees were bigger +and the blossoms were tinged with pink without being pink it would give +the effect more than anything else I know. The indescribable part is the +tree full of blossoms without leaves; of course you get that in the +magnolias, but they are coarse where the cherry is delicate. We went to +a museum to-day, which is finer in some respects than the Imperial; gods +till you can't rest, and wonderful Chinese things, everything except +paintings. + + + + +TOKYO, April 8. + + +We are actually packing up and get away to-morrow morning at 8:30--we +travel all day, the first part till four o'clock on the fastest train in +Japan. The ordinary trains make about fifteen miles an hour, Japan +having unfortunately adopted narrow gauge in early days and going on the +well-known principle of safety first. We have had various and sundry +experiences since writing, the most interesting being on Sunday, when we +were taken into the country both to see the cherry blossoms and the +merry-makers; the time is a kind of a carnival and mild saturnalia based +on bright clothes, and wigs, and saké, about ninety per cent saké. +There were a few besides ourselves not intoxicated, but not many. +Everybody practiced whatever English he knew on us, one dressed-up +fellow informing us "I Chrallie Chaplin," and he was as good an +imitation as most. Aside from one fight we saw no rudeness and not much +boisterousness, the mental effect being apparently to make them +confidential and demonstrative. Usually they are very reserved with one +another, but Sunday it looked as if they were telling each other all +their deepest secrets and life ambitions. Our host of the day laughed +most benevolently all the time, not excluding when a fellow dressed in +bright red woman's clothes insisted on riding on the running board. They +get drunk so seldom that it didn't appeal to him so much as a drunk as +it did as a popular festival; the people really were happy. + +There were miles of trees planted each side of a canal that supplies +Tokyo with water, all kinds of trees and in all stages of development, +from no blossoms to full, no leaf and beautiful little pink leaves. The +blossoms are dropping, it is almost a mild snowfall, and yet the trees +seem full. + +Yesterday we went to the theater again, the Imperial, a party of ten +filling two boxes. We were taken behind the scenes and shown the green +rooms, etc., and introduced to an actor and to his son, about eleven, +who appeared on the stage later and did a very pretty dance. He had a +teacher in the room and was doing his Chinese writing lesson, never +looked up till he was spoken to, about the handsomest and most +intelligent looking lad I have seen in Japan. Acting is practically an +hereditary profession here. I doubt if an outsider not trained from +early childhood could possibly do the acting anyway, and I don't think +the guild would let him break in if he could, though one man of British +extraction has been quite successful on the Japanese stage. We saw some +very interesting things yesterday, including dances, and learned that +they are very anxious to come to America, but they want a patron. If the +scenes were selected with great care to take those that have lots of +action and not so much talking, and the libretto was carefully +explained, they could make a hit in New York at least. + +Our other blowout was the other evening at a Japanese classic tea house, +a part of a Noh dance for entertainment and a twelve-course meal or so. +The most interesting thing though is talking to people. On the whole I +think we have a chance to see people who know Japan much better than +most. We haven't been officialized and putting the different things +together I think we have as good an acquaintance with the social +conditions as anybody would be likely to get in eight weeks. An +experienced journalist could get it, so far as information is concerned, +in a few days, but I think things have to be soaked in by cumulative +impressions to get the feel of the thing and the background. When they +told me first that this was a great psychological moment, that +everything was critical and crucial, I didn't know what they meant, and +I could hardly put it in words now, any more than they did, but I know +inside of me. There are few external signs of a change, but Japan is +nearly in the condition she was in during the first years of contact and +opening up of things fifty or so years ago, so far as the mental +readiness for change is concerned, and the next few years may see rapid +social changes. + + + + +NARA, April 12. + + +Well, we have started on our journey and have seen Japan for the first +time, scenically speaking, that is to say. The first day's ride from +Tokyo to Nagoya was interesting, but not particularly so except for +Fuji, which we saw off and on for several hours, and on three sides. As +sometimes it isn't visible, and we had a fine warm day, we had good +luck. Nagoya is where the best old castle in Japan is, you may even in +your benighted country and estate have heard of the two golden dolphins +on top. The castle is an imperial palace and it turned out that you have +to have a permit from Tokyo, but we set out to try to get in, and as we +had met a nice young man at the X----'s in Tokyo who came from Nara, we +telephoned him, and while we didn't get in through him (he said he could +never get in himself under any circumstances) he promptly asked us to +dinner. Then we were taken to the swellest tea house in Nara and had +another of those elaborate dinners, on what he called the tea-istic +plan. We began with the tea ceremony without the ceremony but with the +powdered tea, the bowl being prepared for each one separately in +succession. The Nara cooking is better, we all thought, than the Tokyo, +the food being more savory and the variety of flavors greater, an +opinion which pleased our host. Expressing some curiosity about some +four-inch trout which seemed to have a sugar caramel coating, we found +that they were cooked in a kind of liquor which deposited the sweetness, +and then we were presented with a bottle of the drink known as Mirin, so +now we are lugging glassware. Then after the dinner he said that he +hoped that we would not think him guilty of improper action, but that he +had invited the best samisen player and singer in Nagoya, and also some +dancers. In other words, some geishas were introduced and sang, played +and danced before King David. There are all grades from those comparable +to chorus girls at Jack's to high grade actresses, and these were of the +upper kind. He said he wished us to see something of true Japan which +few foreigners saw, this referring to the restaurant as well as the +dancing. They won't receive anybody who isn't an old client or friend of +one of these high toned places. But the ladies of the party thought he +was especially interested in one of the girls. Personally I think the +dancing and music are much more interesting than they are reported to be +in the guide books. + +The next day we went to the primitive Ise shrines, arriving cross and +hungry at about two, but bound to get the pilgrimage over, especially as +it wasn't good weather. Yamada, where the sacred shrines are, is a very +beautiful place, with wooded hills and little streams. The trees are +largely cryptomerias, which are evidently some relative of the +California redwoods, and while not nearly as tall, make much the same +effect. It is a darling spot, filled with the usual thousands of carpet +bagger (literally the old Brussel carpet bags) pilgrims. As previously +reported I toted a borrowed frock coat and stovepipe hat. Our guide said +special clothing was not needed for the ladies. I put on my war paint, +and the chief priest having been written from Tokyo of our impending +arrival, an hour had been set. At the outermost gate, the Torii, the +ceremony of purification, took place. We had water poured out on our +hands out of a little ceremonial cup and basin and then the priest +sprinkled salt on us; nobody else had this but us. Then when we got to +the fence gate, we were told that the ladies not having "visiting +dresses," whatever they are, couldn't go inside, but that I should be +treated as of the same rank as an Imperial professor and allowed to go. +I forgot to say that we had a gendarme in front of us to shoo the vulgar +herd out of our way. Then we marched slowly in behind the priest, on +stones brought from the seaside, through a picket fence to designated +spots near the next fence, I being allowed nearer to the gate than our +Japanese guide; and we worshiped, that is bowed. I got my bow over +disgracefully quick, but I think our Japanese conductor stood at least +fifteen minutes. + + + + +KYOTO, April 15. + + +Here we are in the Florence of Japan, and even more to see if possible +than in Italy. We have had a rainy day to-day, which is perhaps a good +beginning for a week of constant sightseeing. This morning we spent in +Yamanaka's--the most beautiful shop I ever saw, composed of the finest +Japanese rooms of the finest proportions and filled with the most +beautiful art specimens of all kinds. But the kinds are properly +assorted in true Japanese fashion. I bought a red brocade. It is a +panel, old red with figures of gold and some dark blue, peonies and +birds. It is what the Buddhist priests wear over the left arm in +procession. We have the certificate that it is over a hundred years old. +The panel is about five feet long and one wide, the strips which compose +it are four in number, sewed in seams, which turn the corners in mortise +fashion, and yet they all match perfectly. Most of these strips are +woven in these ribbons and sewed together. I got a second one which is +purple with splendid big birds and peonies again. I like the peony in +brocade much better than the chrysanthemum or the smaller flowers. Some +fine ones with pomegranates are tempting, but I did not buy the most +beautiful on account of the prospects of spending money better in China. +I also bought a pretty tea set which I have here in my room--it cost 30 +sen, which means fifteen cents for teapot and five cups, gray pottery +with blue decorations. There are many cheaper ones that are pretty too. +Tomorrow we go to the original temple where the tea ceremony originated +and are to participate in the tea ceremony, which the high priest will +perform for us. You better get a guide book and read about the temples +of Kyoto, as they are too numerous to tell about in letters. We have the +municipal car for all these occasions. Good thing we do, for Kyoto has +shrunk like a nut in its shell since the days of its ancient capital +size and the distances between temples are enormous. Next day we go to +the Imperial Palaces, and so go on and on getting fatter and fatter. + +The weather and the spring time are superb. Cherry blossoms were gone +when we got here, but the young leaves of the maples are lovely green or +red and the whole earth is paradise now. The hills are nearer than in +Florence, the mountains higher, so that Kyoto has every natural beauty. +We shall only have a week here and then go to Osaka, where the puppet +theater is and where there is a school of drama, of which Ganjiro is the +leader. It is the doll theater we want to see, because that is the +origin of all acting in Japan. Many of the conventions of the theater +are based on the movements of the puppets. + +Kyoto in many respects is the most lovely thing the world has to show, +such a combination of nature and art as one dreams of. These wonderful +temples of enormous size, of natural wood filled with paintings and +sculpture of an ancient and unknown kind, fascinate one to the point of +feeling there must be many more worlds when such multiplicity of ideas +and feelings can exist on a single planet, and we live unconscious of +the whole of it or even of any part of its extent. The gardens we have +seen to-day are the old Japan unchanged since they were made a thousand +years ago, when they took the ancient ideas of China and India for +models. The temples of Tokyo seem like shabby relics of a worn-out era, +but here the perfection of their art remains and is kept intact. The +landscape of the first Buddhist monastery, where the tea ceremony +originated, has the same rivers and islands and little piles of sand +which were placed in the beginning, all in miniature, and planted with +miniature trees, all imitations of real scenes in China when China was +the land of culture. Now they say even the originals are destroyed in +China, which is so out of repair that it depresses every one who sees +it. Fifty years ago they advertised for sale here in Nara, a lovely +pagoda five stories high for fifty yen. It is obviously necessary for +some American millionaire to buy up the massive gates and pagodas and +temples of China in order to redeem them from complete ruin. The +Japanese are the one people who have waked up in time to the value of +these historic things, and several of the temples have been rebuilt +before the old material was so rotted as to make them hopeless. Wood is +a magnificent material when it is used in such massive structures as it +is here. The biggest bell in the world, twelve feet high, is hung on a +great tree trunk in a belfry with a curled-up roof of flower-like +proportions, first having been hauled to the top of the high hill. We +shall hear it boom next Saturday. We heard the one in Nara, the deepest +thing I ever thought to hear, nine feet high. They are beautiful bronze +and they are very mellow and melodious and reach to the center of +whatever the center of your being may be and leave you to hope the +greater unknown of the judgment day may be a call like that sound. + +We had lunch with Miss D----. She tells stories about the efforts of the +Japanese girls to get an education that make you want to sell your +earrings, even if you have none, in order to give the money to these +idealists. They are as much pioneers as our forebears who chopped down +the trees, but they can't get at a tree to chop. She says she wants me +to go back to America and to go to every Congregational church there and +tell them they must send money here to give education to the people. + +One day we have the mayor's car to go about in and the next day the +University hires a car for us and we indulge ourselves in all kinds of +doings we do not deserve and sometimes wonder if we shall have to commit +suicide after it ends in order to condone the point of honor. Certainly +these people have a nobility of character which entitles them to race +equality. + +I want to find a nice quiet place to stay and come back and see the +sights at greater length. The paintings on the walls are mostly ruined, +but the kakemonas and the screens and the makemonas, those are wonderful +and I am glad to say that we have got over seeing them as grotesque, and +we feel their beauty. When once you see that the trees in the ground are +real and that they look just as the trees in the pictures have always +looked, then you begin to appreciate both nature and human nature as +depicted. + + + + +KYOTO, April 15. + + +To-day is rainy and we haven't done much. We got here yesterday noon. +The hotel is on the side of a hill with wonderful views, and is pretty +good, though the one at Nara which is run by the Imperial Railway System +is the only first-class one we have seen so far. In the afternoon the +University sent a car and we took an auto ride into the suburbs to a +famous cherry place--it was too late for blossoms, but the river and +hills and woods were beautiful, and we saw the usual large crowd +enjoying life. It is really wonderful the way the people go out, all +classes, and the amount of pleasure they get out of doors and in the tea +houses. I have never been anywhere where every day seemed so much of a +holiday as in Japan--there is still saké in evidence but not so much. + +This month a special geisha dance is given here at a theater connected +with a training school; the dance lasts an hour and is repeated four or +five consecutive hours. We went last night; the dancing is much more +mechanical posturing than the theater dancing, or than the little geisha +dance we saw at Nara, but the color combinations and the way they +handled the scenery were wonderful. There were eight very different +scenes and it didn't take more than a minute to make any change. Once a +curtain was simply drawn down through a trap door, another time what had +looked like a canvas mat in front of the curtain was pulled up and it +turned out to be painted on one side. But they had a different method +every time. + +The mayor has invited me to speak to the teachers Saturday afternoon, +and afterwards we are invited by the municipality to a Japanese dinner. +They are also putting the city auto--the only one apparently--at our +disposal, when they aren't using it, and have arranged to take us to a +porcelain and a weaving factory next Monday. This town is the +headquarters of Japan for artistic production, ancient and modern. The +University authorities also telephoned to Tokyo and got permission for +us to visit the palaces here, but they are said not to be equal to the +Nagoya ones which we missed. While at Nara we spent most of our time at +the Horiuji temples, some miles out. I won't do the encyclopedia act +except to say that they are the headquarters of the introduction of +Buddhism into Japan thirteen hundred years ago, which meant +civilization, especially art, and have the wall frescoes, unfortunately +faint, of that period, and lots of sculpture; this means wood carving, +as of course there is no marble here. Well, it happened that it was the +birthday of Prince Shotoku, who was the gentleman responsible for the +aforesaid introduction, and of whom there are many statues, age of two, +twelve and sixteen being favorites; his piety was precocious. +Consequently, everything was wide open. Every kind of peep show and +stall, and more than the usual hundreds of pilgrims who combine pleasure +with piety in a way that beats even the Italian peasants; when they have +money here they spend it; tightwadism is not a Japanese vice. Well, we +were taken into the garden of the chief priest to eat our luncheon; of +course, he was very busy, but greeted us in gorgeous robes and then sent +out tea and rice cakes. The contrast between this lovely little garden +and the drums and barkers just beyond the walls and the wonderful old +artistic shrines beyond the barkers and ham and egg row was as +interesting as anything in Japan. + +You may remember Miss E---- is rather tall for an American woman, even. +Mamma is something of an object to the country people, but Miss E---- is +a spectacle. Curiosity is the only emotion the Japanese are not taught +to conceal apparently. They gather around in scores, literally. I don't +know how many times I have seen parents make sure the children didn't +miss the show. Several times I have seen people walk slowly and solemnly +all the way around us to make sure they missed nothing. No rudeness +ever, just plain curiosity. As we were going to the museum after +breakfast, a few of those children, girls, appeared and bowed. First I +knew one of them had hold of each of my hands, and went with us as far +as the museum--girls of nine or ten. It was touching to see their +friendliness, especially one evidently rather poor, who would look up at +me and laugh, and then squeeze my hand and press it against herself, and +then laugh with delight again. I haven't been able to discover when it +ceases to be proper for children to be natural. Sunday morning some +soldiers were going off to Manchuria--or Korea--and before eight we +heard the patter of the clogs down the street and some hundred of boys +and girls were marching down to the station with their teachers; the +same thing next morning, for the soldiers. + + + + +KYOTO, April 19. + + +We have just come from another Geisha party, given by the mayor and +about fifteen of the other officers of the city. Papa is quite stuck up +because they say it is the first time the city of Kyoto ever entertained +a scholar in that fashion. But if he is stuck up what should I be when a +woman appears for the first time in history at a men's carouse in Japan? +The Geisha girls are all the way from eleven years old to something like +fifty. One of the older ones is the best dancer in the city, and she +gave us one of the wonderful pantomime dances that so fascinate one +here. She has been in jail for her political activities, said activities +consisting in the active distribution of funds in order to elect someone +she favored. It is against the law for a woman to take any part in +politics here. Like all the older women of that class that I have seen +she has a sad look when her face is at rest. But they all talk and +entertain so busily that the sadness is not seen by the men. They are a +very cultivated lot of women so far as we have seen them; of course we +see only the best. They talk with the composure of a duchess and the +good nature of a child. It is a rare combination. They are very curious +about us and ask all sorts of questions. One girl of seventeen said she +loved babies and how many did I have? When I told her five she was +delighted. She had a rosebud mouth just like the old prints and danced +with the old print postures. The girls pass the drinks and the rice +which always comes at the end of such feasts. The little eleven-year-old +gave a dance called "Climbing Fuji." Wonderful flat-footed movements +that make you feel exactly as if you were climbing with her. In the +middle part she puts on a mask which is puffy in the cheeks, and then +she wipes the perspiration and washes her little face and fans herself +and goes on again, flatfooted. All the motions are most elegant and +graceful and subtle and serpentine, never an abrupt or sudden gesture, +and never quite literal in any sense. After the dance was finished she +came and sat by me and her skin was hot as if she had a fever. All the +men were older and I must say they treated her very nicely. + +This is the way those feasts go. We enter the restaurant in stocking +feet, and are usually shown to a small room where we kneel on the +cushions and take tea while waiting for all the guests to assemble. +About six this time, we were shown to the large room, which is always +surrounded by gold screens and shoji, which slide back before the +windows. Cushions are placed about three feet apart on three sides of +the long and beautifully shaped room. In the middle of one side they are +piled up so the foreign guests of honor may sit instead of kneeling +Japanese fashion. We place ourselves after having all the guests one +after another brought up. We shake hands because their bows are rather +impossible and they have adapted themselves to our way. Then we all +squat again. Then the pretty waitresses come slithering across the +floor, each with a tiny table in her hands. The first is for Papa, the +second for me, then the mayor, and so on. The mayor is down at the end +of the line. After each one has his table before him the mayor comes to +the center of the hollow square and makes a little speech of welcome. He +always tells you how sorry he is he has such a poor entertainment and +that he could not do better for these distinguished guests who do him so +much honor by coming, and how this is the first time the city has ever +honored a foreign scholar by this kind of entertainment. Then Papa does +his best to make a reply, and after he sits down we lift the cover of a +lovely lacquer soup bowl and lift the chop sticks. You take a drink of +soup, lift a thin slippery slice of raw fish from its little dish, dip +it in the sauce and put it in your mouth. To-night this first soup is a +rich and rare green turtle, delicious. So you drink it all and take a +little fish, but our guide warns us not to take too much raw fish as we +are not accustomed it. By this time another tray of pretty lacquer is +put beside you on the floor and on it is a tiny tray or platter of +lacquer on which are placed two little fish browned to perfection, and +trimmed with two little cakes of egg and powdered fish, very nicely +rolled in cherry leaves. Every dish is a work of art in its arrangement. +These two fish are the favorite of the last emperor, and you do not +blame him. They are cooked in mirin, a kind of sweet liquor made from +saké, and you eat all you can pick off the bones with your hashi. As +soon as this tray is in place you see a lovely little girl with her +long, bright-colored kimona on the floor around her, and she has in her +hand a blue and white china bottle placed in a tiny lacquer coaster, and +you know the feast is really under way. She is followed by the older +girls, and little by little one at a time and quite gradually the +dancing girls come in and bow to the floor while they pour out the +saké. They laugh at the ways of the foreigners who always forget it is +the part of the guest to hold out his tiny cup for the poison. Everybody +drinks to the health of everybody else and there stops my saké, but the +Japanese drink on and on, one cup at a sip and the hand reaching out for +more. Talk gets livelier, the girls take more part in it. They are said +by some to be the only interesting women in Japan. At any rate, no wives +are ever there but me, and the girls are beautifully cultured, moving at +the slightest suggestion of voice or gesture and always seeing quickly +and very pleasantly what each one wants. As soon as they see we do not +drink saké they bring many bottles of mineral water for us. Then they +do their beautiful dances. Two, about seventeen years old, did one +called "Twilight on the east hill of Kyoto." In Nagoya, in Tokyo, or +wherever you are, the theme is always some natural event connected with +the nature near by. Always simple and classic. Then the famous old +dancer did a subtle thing called "The nurse putting the child to sleep." +That is another favorite theme. This was lovely, but sometimes too +subtle for us to grasp all the movements. These girls all dress in dark +colors like the ladies, only with the difference prescribed by the +profession, such as the low neck in the back and the full length of the +kimona on the floor like a wave around her. With the young ones the obi +is different, being tied to drop down on the floor in a long bow. The +young ones also have the bright hair ornaments and the very long +sleeves. But so do other young girls wear the long sleeves for company +dress. + +There are other courses of fish; one of four strawberries, two slices of +orange, some mint jelly cut in cubes, and sweetened bamboo slices in the +middle of the list. Then more fish courses, many of them bright-colored +shell fish which are always rather tough. Then a very nice mixture of +sour cucumber salad and little pieces of lobster or crab, very nice and +any sour thing is good with these many courses of fish. At the end bowls +of rice, which is brought in in a big lacquer dish with a cover looking +some like a small barrel. This is put into bowls by one of the older +dancers and handed about by the younger ones who get up and down from +their kneeling posture by just lifting themselves as if they had no +weight, on their toes. Many of the Japanese take the regulation three +bowls full of rice, and eat it very fast. I must say their rice is +delicious, but I cannot get away with more than one bowl, partly because +I cannot gobble. Then, for the last, your bowl is filled with tea. + +All this time the gentlemen from the other parts of the room are +kneeling one at a time before you asking you if you like the cherry +dance and what your first impressions of Japan were, and all such talk, +and you have become intimate friends with the dancers as well, maybe +with no common language except "thank you" and "very nice" and +"good-bye," and constant smiles and interpretations now and then from +others who know a very little English. One thing no one expects is for a +foreigner to know a word of Japanese. Therefore, when you pop out an +awkward word or two, you are applauded by laughter and compliments on +your good pronunciation. To-night we had the very tiniest of green +peppers cooked as a vegetable with one of the dishes. That was good as +it had flavor; three of them about as big as a hairpin were served in +the dish. You always get tiny portions and are usually warned not to eat +too much at the first part of the meal. In the tea-dinner the rice comes +along at the beginning so it can be eaten with the fish, and that is an +agreeable variety though you are told not to eat too much of it as there +are other courses to follow. I forgot to say there is always a course in +the middle which is a hot custard made with broth instead of milk and +seasoned with vegetables. That is good, too. In fact, I have become +quite fond of this fish food. + +When we got in the motor car at the gate of the restaurant, all the gay +little dancers were standing there in the rain waving their hands in +American fashion till we went out of sight. Then I suppose the tired +little things went back and danced for more men. We were home at 8:30. +All the dinners seem to be early here in Japan, except what are called +the foreign ones and they follow our hours as well as our style. + +I must tell you the best tea in Japan grows here at a place nearby +called Uji. We had that tea after a lecture in the city hall. It is +strong to the danger point, and has a flavor unlike anything else. An +acid like lemon and no bitter at all; leaves a smooth pleasant taste +something like dry sherry, and is generally delicious. It costs at least +ten yen a pound here, but I shall get some to take home. Very good +ordinary tea here costs fifteen sen a pound, seven and a half cents. + + + + +KYOTO, April 22. + + +To-day we were taken visiting schools--first a Boys' High school, then +an elementary school which had an American flag along with the Japanese +over the door in our honor, and which was awfully nice. The children did +lots of cunning stunts for us, one little kid beating the Japanese drum +for their rhythmic marching, which they are good at. Then a textile +school for textile design, weaving and dyeing, which for some +unexplained reason was bad and poorly attended. The machines were old, +German and out of date. In fact, it all looked as if it had been worked +off on them second hand by some Germans who didn't want them ever to +amount to anything. All of the best work here is still done by hand, +although they have good electric power developed from the water they +have. Then we went to a Girls' High School, combined with a college for +girls, preparing teachers for the regular high schools. The élite of +Kyoto go there, and it, like the other schools, was very nice and good. +They specialize in domestic science and we ate a fine Japanese lunch +they had prepared. All this, like most our other trips, in the mayor's +car. + +This is really a country where the scholar is looked up to and not down +upon. In virtue of having lectured at the Imperial University I am "Your +Excellency" officially. Osaka city does not wish to be outdone by Kyoto, +so I am to lecture to the teachers there, and the city is to provide for +us at the hotel, and the mayor to give us a banquet there. Of course, +Mamma is the only woman present, as it would not occur to them to invite +their own wives. Foreign women are expected, however, to do strange +things, and they are very polite to them. The geisha women seem to be +about the only ones who have an all-around education--not of the book +type, but in the sense of knowing about things and being able and +willing to talk--and I think the men go to these banquets and talk to +them because they are tired of their too obeyful wives and their +overdocility. One woman at the banquet we went to was known as the +Singing Butterfly, and has the name Constitution as a nickname, because +of her supposed interest in politics, especially on the liberal side. +When we heard that she had been in prison because of her interest in +politics, we sat up and took notice, but it turned out that it was for +bribing voters to vote for a man she was interested in. But she is a +local celebrity all right, and her stay in prison had evidently added to +her interest and prestige. + + + + +April 28, on the _Kumano Maru_. + +En Route to China. + + +The lecture yesterday was a success, going off rather better than the +others. It was in a school hall and they are always beautiful rooms. I +was entertained during its two hours of duration by watching a splendid +pink azalea and a pine on either side of the desk. They are each about +five feet high and of the most lovely shape, and there were about a +thousand blossoms on this azalea. We know but very little about dwarfed +trees and shrubs in our country as the specimens we see are very small +ones and inferior in shape and interest to those we see here. They are +everywhere, each little shop has in the midst of its mess of second hand +or cheap new things a charming little peach or plum, pine, azalea, or +redberry. In a hot house we saw a tree that had two plums on it, and we +frequently see tiny orange trees covered with fruit. The white peach is +one of the loveliest things in the world, double blossoms like roses, +and is entirely artificially produced. + +The smoke has lifted and we are seeing the hills of the shore very well. +On the other side of the ship we see the Island of Awaji, so we are now +between the two islands and it is much like the Thousand Islands in the +St. Lawrence River. I suppose this is the entrance to the Inland Sea. It +is partly clear and the land is so close it is easy to see. There are +many Japanese ladies on board with their husbands and they seem to enjoy +it. With their faces white with rice powder and their purple color in +their haoris they are pretty, and especially here where they do not feel +the necessity of covering the obi with haori so they look less +humpbacked than in fashionable Tokyo. Their footwear I love, only, of +course, it holds them still more to the conventional position as it +leaves the legs bare above the ankle, and they must walk so as not to +show that as well as not to disturb the lap of the kimona down the +front. But the tabi feel like bare feet on account of the division of +the big toe from the other toes, and as soon as you put them on you feel +as if the toes were really made to use, and the foot clings as you walk. +I am taking a set of cotton kimonas to China so as to have them to wear +in my room with the tabi on hot days. Without the obi the dress becomes +quite cool if made of thin material. The thin silk, which is practically +transparent, is one of the most beautiful things in Japanese weaving, as +it is still firm enough to keep its shape and wear for years. + +The dress of the geisha is very like the ceremonial dress of the lady, +especially when black with decorations at the bottom. The little girls +are very touching, many of them are not over eight or nine, and they +wear the elaborate dress and coiffure which is theirs for the part. In +cherry season it is bright peacock blue. In Osaka the decorations were +butterflies in colors and gold. The samisen players are older and they +dress more plainly in black or plain blue, the drum players are young +and gay colored. The teeth of the little girls are so bad that I asked +if they blackened them. The dances are lovely poetical things with +themes of the most delicate subjects. There is never anything coarse +either in the thought or the execution. They say the geisha is the most +unselfish person in the world. Perhaps that might be said for all the +women. They do their hard work and keep themselves out of sight to a +degree that shows the pain there must be in it. When I was asked what I +thought of them I answered that I thought Japanese women were not +appreciated for what they did. They said, "No, that is not so, we do not +show it but we appreciate them in our hearts." + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 1. + + +We have slept one night in China, but we haven't any first impressions, +because China hasn't revealed itself to our eyes as yet. We compared +Shanghai to Detroit, Michigan, and except that there is less coal smoke, +the description hits it off. This is said to be literally an +international city, but I haven't learned yet just what the technique +is; every country seems to have its own post office though, and its own +front-door yard, and when we were given a little auto ride yesterday, we +found that the car couldn't go into Chinatown because it had no license +for that district. + +I shall be interested to find out whether in this really old country +they talk about "ages eternal" as freely as they do in Japan; the +authentic history of the latter begins about 500 A.D., their mythical +history 500 B.C., but still it is a country which has endured during +myriads of ages. In spite of the fact that they kept the emperors shut +up for a thousand years, and killed them off and changed them about with +great ease and complacency, the children are all taught, and they repeat +in books for foreigners, that the rule of Japan has been absolutely +unbroken. Of course, they get to believing these things themselves, not +exactly intellectually but emotionally and practically, and it would be +worth any teacher's position for him to question any of their patriotic +legends in print. However, they say that in their oral lectures, the +professors of history of the universities criticise these legends. In +the higher elementary school we visited in Osaka, we saw five classes in +history and ethics, in each of which the Emperor was under +discussion--sometimes _the_ Emperor and what he had done for the +country, and sometimes _an_ Emperor in particular. Apparently this +religion has been somewhat of a necessity, as the country was so divided +and split up, they had practically nothing else to unite on--the Emperor +became a kind of symbol of united and modern Japan. But this worship is +going to be an Old Man of the Sea on their backs. They say the +elementary school teachers are about the most fanatical patriots of the +country. More than one has been burned or allowed the children to be +burned while he rescued the portrait of the Emperor when there was a +fire. They must take it out in patriotism in lieu of salary; they don't +get a living wage, now that the cost of living has gone up. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 2. + + +We have been taken in hand by a reception committee of several Chinese +gentlemen, mostly returned American students. The "returned student" is +a definite category here, and if and when China gets on its feet, the +American university will have a fair share of the glory to its credit. +They took us to see a Chinese cotton spinning and weaving factory. There +is not even the pretense at labor laws here that there is in Japan. +Children six years of age are employed, not many though, and the wages +of the operatives in the spinning department, mainly women, is thirty +cents a day, at the highest thirty-two cents Mex. In the weaving +department they have piece work and get up to forty cents. + +I will tell you something of what we had to eat in one small afternoon. +First, lunch of all courses here at the hotel. Then we went to the +newspaper where we had tea and cake at about four. From there to the +house of the daughter of a leading statesman of the Manchus, she being a +lady of small feet and ten children, who has offered a prize for the +best essay on the ways to stop concubinage, which they call the whole +system of plural marriage. They say it is quite unchanged among the +rich. There we were given a tea of a rare sort, unknown in our +experience. Two kinds of meat pies which are made in the form of little +cakes and quite peculiar in taste, delicious; also cake. Then after we +went to the restaurant where we were to have dinner. First we got into +the wrong hotel and there, while we were waiting, they gave us tea. We +were struck by the fact that they asked for nothing when we left, and +thanked us for coming to the wrong place. Then we went to the right +hotel across the street from the first. They called it the corner of +Broadway and 42nd Street, and it is that. There is a big roof garden +besides the hotels, and they are both run by the Department stores which +have their places underneath. It may be a sad commentary on the human +character that one can eat more than one can remember, but that is what +we did last night. First of all we went into the room which was all +Chinese furniture; very small round table in the middle and the rows of +stools along one side for the singing girls, who do not dance here. +Those stools were not used, as all the young Chinese are ashamed of that +institution and want to get rid of it. On a side table were almonds +shelled, nice little ones, different from ours and very sweet. Beside +them were dried watermelon seeds which were hard to crack and so I did +not taste them. All the Chinese nibbled them with relish. Two ladies +came, both of them had been in New York to study. All these people speak +and understand English in earnest. On the table were little pieces of +sliced ham, the famous preserved eggs which taste like hard-boiled eggs +and look like dark-colored jelly, and little dishes of sweets, shrimps, +etc. To these we helped ourselves with the chop sticks, though they +insisted on giving us little plates on which they spooned out some of +each. Then followed such a feast as we had never experienced, the boys +taking off one dish after another and replacing them with others in the +center of the table, to which we helped ourselves. There was no special +attempt at display of fine dishes such as you might have expected with +such cooking and such expense, and such as would have happened in Japan. +We had chicken and duck and pigeon and veal and pigeon eggs and soup and +fish and little oysters that grow in the ground (very delicious and +delicate) and nice little vegetables and bamboo sprouts mixed in with +the others, and we had shrimps cooked, and shark's fin and bird's nest +(this has no taste at all and is a sort of very delicate soup, but costs +a fortune and that is its real reason for being). It is gelatine which +almost all dissolves in the cooking. We had many more things than these, +and the boy in a dirty white coat and an old cap on his head passing +round the hot perfumed wet towels every few courses, and for dessert we +had little cakes made of bean paste filled up with almond paste and +other sweets, all very elaborately made, and works of art to look at, +but with too little taste to appeal much to us; then we had fruits, +bananas and apples and pears, cut up in pieces, each with a toothpick in +it so it can be eaten easily. Then we had a soup made of fish's stomach, +or air sac. Then we had a pudding of the most delicious sort imaginable, +made of a mold of rice filled in with eight different symbolic things +that I don't know anything about, but they don't cut much part in the +taste. In serving this dish we were first given a little bowl half full +of a sauce thickened and looking like a milk sauce. It was really made +of powdered almonds. Into this you put the pudding, and it is so good +that I regretted all that had gone before, and I am going to learn how +to make it. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 3. + + +Some one told us when we were on the boat that the Japanese cared +everything for what people thought of them, and the Chinese cared +nothing. Making comparisons is a favorite, if dangerous, indoor sport. +The Chinese are noisy, not to say boisterous, easy-going and dirty--and +quite human in general effect. They are much bigger than the Japanese, +and frequently very handsome from any point of view. The most surprising +thing is the number of those who look not merely intelligent but +intellectual among the laborers, such as some of the hotel waiters and +attendants. Our waiter is a rather feminine, ultra refined type, and +might be a poet. I noticed quite a number of the same Latin quarter +Paris type of artists among the teachers whom I addressed to-day. The +Japanese impressions are gradually sinking into perspective with +distance, and it is easy to see that the same qualities that make them +admirable are also the ones that irritate you. That they should have +made what they have out of that little and mountainous island is one of +the wonders of the world, but everything in themselves is a little +overmade, there seems to be a rule for everything, and admiring their +artistic effects one also sees how near art and the artificial are +together. So it is something of a relaxation to get among the easy-going +once more. Their slouchiness, however, will in the end get on one's +nerves quite as much as the "eternal" attention of the Japanese. One +more generalization borrowed from one of our Chinese friends here, and +I'm done. "The East economizes space and the West time"--that also is +much truer than most epigrams. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 4. + + +I have seen a Chinese lady, small feet and all. We took dinner with her. +She did not come into the room until after dinner was over, having been +in the kitchen cooking it while the servant brought things in. She has +one of those placid faces which are round and plump and quite beautiful +in a way, a pretty complexion, and of course a slow, rocking, hobbling +way of walking. Yesterday after the lecture we went there again and she +showed us all over her flat. It is well kept, with not many conveniences +from our point of view, but I think it is regarded as quite modern here. +It has a staircase, and a little roof where they dry clothes or sit. The +bath is a tin tub, warmed by carrying water from the little stove like +our little laundry stoves. It has an outlet pipe to the ground, no +sewers as usual in the Orient. The kitchen has a little stove of iron +set up on boxes and they burn small pieces of wood. It has three +compartments, two big shallow iron pots for roasting and boiling and a +deep one in the middle for keeping the hot water for tea. Only two fires +are needed as the heat from the two end fires does for the water in the +middle. + +There is no doubt that the Chinese are a sociable people if given a +chance. Of course, men like the husband of our hostess are the extreme +of ability and advanced ideas here. But it is remarkable that he shows +us things as they are. When we visited schools he did not arrange in +advance because he did not want us to see a fixed up program. When we +went out to lunch he took us to a Chinese place where no foreigners ever +go. + +Yesterday we went to a department store to buy some gloves and garters. +Gloves were Keyser's, imported, so were the stockings, so were the +garters and suspenders, etc. The gloves were from $1 to $1.60 and the +suspenders were a dollar. I bought some silk, sixteen inches wide, for +fifty cents a yard. The store was messy and the floors dirty, but it is +a popular place for the Chinese. We paid three dollars for a book marked +1sh. 6p. in England, and everything here is like that. Gloves and +stockings are made in Japan, and good and cheap there; fine silken +stockings $1.60 a pair. But still the Chinese do not buy of them, but +from America. We have visited a cotton mill. The Chinese cotton and silk +are now inferior, owing to lack of scientific production and of proper +care of seed. In weaving, they sometimes mix their cotton with ours. + + + + +SHANGHAI, Monday, May 12. + + +The Peking tempest seems to have subsided for the present, the +Chancellor still holding the fort, and the students being released. The +subsidized press said this was due in part to the request of the +Japanese that the school-boy pranks be looked upon indulgently. +According to the papers, the Japanese boycott is spreading, but the ones +we see doubt if the people will hold out long enough--meanwhile Japanese +money is refused here. + +The East is an example of what masculine civilization can be and do. The +trouble I should say is that the discussions have been confined to the +subjection of the women as if that were a thing affecting the women +only. It is my conviction that not merely the domestic and educational +backwardness of China, but the increasing physical degeneration and the +universal political corruption and lack of public spirit, which make +China such an easy mark, is the result of the condition of women. There +is the same corruption in Japan only it is organized; there seems to be +an alliance between two groups of big capitalists and the two leading +political "parties." There the very great public spirit is nationalistic +rather than social, that is, it is patriotism rather than public spirit +as we understand it. So while Japan is strong where China is weak, there +are corresponding defects there because of the submission of women--and +the time will come when the hidden weakness will break Japan down. Here +are two items from the Chinese side. A missionary spoke to Christian +Chinese about spending the time Sunday, making chiefly the point that it +was a good time for family reunions and family readings, conversation +and the like. One of them said that they would be bored to death if they +had to spend the whole day with their wives. Then we are told that the +rich women--who have of course much less liberty in getting out than the +poorer class women--spend their time among themselves gambling. It is +universally believed that the attempt to support a number of wives +extravagantly is one of the chief sources of political corruption. On +the other hand, at one of the political protest meetings in Peking a +committee of twelve was appointed to go to the officials and four of +them were women. In Japan women are forbidden to attend any meetings +where politics are discussed, and the law is strictly enforced. There +are many more Chinese women studying in America than there are +Japanese--in part, perhaps, because of the lack of higher schools for +girls here, but also because they don't have to give up marriage here +when they get an education--in fact we are told they are in especial +demand not only among the men who have studied abroad, but among the +millionaires. Certainly the educated ones here are much more advanced on +the woman question than in Japan. + +"You never can tell" is the coat of arms of China. The Chancellor of the +University was forced out on the evening of the eighth by the cabinet, +practically under threat of assassination; also soldiers (bandits) were +brought into the city and the University surrounded, so to save the +University rather than himself, he left--nobody knows where. The release +of the students was sent out by telegraph, but they refused to allow +this to become known. It seems this Chancellor was more the intellectual +leader of the liberals than I had realized, and the government had +become really afraid of him. He has only been there two years, and +before that the students had never demonstrated politically and now they +are the leaders of the new movement. So of course the government will +put in a reactionary, and the students will leave and all the honest +teachers resign. Perhaps the students will go on strike all over China. +But you never can tell. + + + + +Tuesday A.M. + + +Ex-President Sun Yat Sen is a philosopher, as I found out last night +during dinner with him. He has written a book, to be published soon, +saying that the weakness of the Chinese is due to their acceptance of +the statement of an old philosopher, "To know is easy, to act is +difficult." Consequently they did not like to act and thought it was +possible to get a complete theoretical understanding, while the strength +of the Japanese was that they acted even in ignorance and went ahead and +learned by their mistakes; the Chinese were paralyzed by fear of making +a mistake in action. So he has written a book to prove to his people +that action is really easier than knowledge. + +The American sentiment here hopes that the Senate will reject the treaty +because it virtually completes the turning over of China to Japan. I +will only mention two things said in the conversation. Japan already has +more troops, namely twenty-three divisions, under arms in China than she +has in Japan, Japanese officered Chinese, and her possession of +Manchurian China is already complete. They have lent China two hundred +millions to be used in developing this army and extending it. They +offered China, according to the conversation at dinner, to lend her two +million a month for twenty years for military purposes. Japan figured +the war would last till '21 or '22, and had proposed an offensive and +defensive alliance to Germany, Japan to supply its trained Chinese army, +and Germany to turn over to Japan the Allies' concessions and colonies +in China. As an evidence of good faith, Germany had already offered to +Japan its own Chinese territory, and it was the communication of this +fact to Great Britain which induced the latter to sign the secret pact +agreeing to turn over German possessions to Japan, when the peace was +made. These men are not jingoists; they think they know what they are +talking about, and they have good sources of knowledge. Some of these +statements are known facts--like the size of the army and the two +hundred million loan--but of course I can't guarantee them. But I'm +coming to the opinion that it might be well worth while to reject the +treaty on the ground that it involved the recognition of secret treaties +and secret diplomacy. On the other hand, a genuine League of +Nations--one with some vigor--is the only salvation I can see of the +whole Eastern situation, and it is infinitely more serious than we +realize at home. If things drift on five or ten years more, the world +will have a China under Japanese military domination--barring two +things--Japan will collapse in the meantime under the strain, or Asia +will be completely Bolshevikized, which I think is about fifty-fifty +with a Japanized-Militarized China. European diplomacy here, which of +course dominates America, is completely futile. England does everything +with reference to India, and they all temporize and drift and take what +are called optimistic long-run views and quarrel among themselves, and +Japan alone knows what it wants and comes after it. + +I still believe in the genuineness of the Japanese liberal movement +there, but they lack moral courage. They, the intellectual liberals, are +almost as ignorant of the true facts as we are, and enough aware of them +to wish to keep themselves in ignorance. Then there is the great +patriotism, which of course easily justifies, by the predatory example +of the Europeans, the idea that this is all in self-defense. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 13. + + +I closed up abruptly because there seemed a possibility of mail going +out and now it is a day after and more to tell, with a prospect of +little time to tell it. China is full of unused resources and there are +too many people. The factories begin to work at six or earlier in the +morning, with not enough for the poor to do, and they have the habit of +not wanting to work much. Two shifts work in factories for the +twenty-four hours. They get about twenty to thirty cents a day and the +little children get from nothing up to nine cents, or even eleven cents +after they get older. Iron mines are idle, coal and oil undeveloped, and +they cannot get railroads. They burn their wood everywhere and the +country is withering away because it is deforested. They made the +porcelain industry for the world and they buy their table dishes from +Japan. They raise a deteriorated cotton and buy cotton cloth from Japan. +They buy any quantity of small useful articles from Japan. Japanese are +in every town across China like a network closing in on fishes. + +All the mineral resources of China are the prey of the Japanese, and +they have secured 80 per cent of them by bribery of the Peking +government. Talk to a Chinese and he will tell you that China cannot +develop because she has no transportation facilities. Talk to him about +building railroads and he tells you China ought to have railroads but +she cannot build them because she cannot get the material. Talk to him +about fuel when you see all the weeds being gathered from the roadsides +for burning in the cook stoves, and he tells you China cannot use her +mines because of the government's interference. There are large coal +mines within ten miles of this city with the coal lying near the surface +and only the Japanese are using them, though they are right on the bank +of the Yangste River. The iron mines referred to are near the river, a +whole mountain of iron being worked by the Japanese, who bring the ocean +ships up the river, load them directly from the mines, the ore being +carried down the hill, and take these ships directly to Japan, and they +pay four dollars a ton to the Chinese company which carries on all the +work. + +The last hope of China for an effective government passed away with the +closing of the Peace Conference, which has been working hard here for +weeks. It seems the delegates from the south could act with plenary +power. The delegates from the north had to refer everything to the +military ministers from Peking, and so at last they gave up. Despair is +deeper than ever, and they all say that nothing can be done. We have +gone round recommending many ways of getting at the wrong impressions +that prevail in our country about them, such as propaganda, an +insistence upon the explanation of the differences between the people +and the government. But the reply is, "We can do nothing, we have no +money." Certainly the Chinese pride has been grounded now. An American +official here says there is no hope for China except through the +protection of the great powers, in which Japan must join. Without that +she is the prey of Japan. Japanese are buying best bits of land in this +city for business, and in other cities. Japan borrows money from other +nations and then loans it to China on bleeding terms. The cession of +Shantung has, of course, precipitated the whole mess and some Chinese +think that is their last hope to so reduce them to the last extremity +that rage will bring them to act. The boycott of Japanese goods and +money has begun, but many say it will not be persistently carried out. +The need for food and clothes in China keeps everybody bound by the +struggle for a livelihood, and everything else has to be forgotten in +the long run. + +The protests of the Faculty on behalf of the students seem to have been +received by the government in good part. Students here are in trouble +also to some extent and there is a probability of a strike of students +in all the colleges and middle schools of the country. The story at St. +John's here is very interesting. It is the Episcopalian mission school, +and one of the best. Students walked to Shanghai, ten miles, on the +hottest day to parade, then ten miles back. Some of them fell by the way +with sunstroke. On their return in the evening they found some of the +younger students going in to a concert. The day was a holiday, called +the Day of Humiliation. It is the anniversary of the date of the +twenty-one demands of Japan, and is observed by all the schools. It is a +day of general meetings and speechmaking for China. These students stood +outside of the door where the concert was to be held and their principal +came out and told them they must go to the concert. They replied that +they were praying there, as it was not a time for celebrating by a +concert on the Day of Humiliation. Then they were ordered to go in first +by this principal and afterwards by the President of the whole college. +Considerable excitement was the result. Students said they were watching +there for the sake of China as the apostles prayed at the death of +Christ and this anniversary was like the anniversary of the death of +Christ. The President told them if they did not go in then he would shut +them out of the college. This he did. They stood there till morning and +then one of them who lived nearby took them into his house. Therefore +St. John's College is closed and the President has not given in. + +I fancy the Chinese would be almost ready to treat the Japanese as they +did the treacherous minister if it were not for the reaction it would +have on the world at large. They do hate them and the Americans we have +met all seem to feel with them. Certainly the apparent lie of the +Japanese when they made their splurge in promising before the sitting of +the Peace Conference to give back the German concessions to China is +something America ought not to forget. All these, and the extreme +poverty of China is what I had no idea of before coming here. + +A wonderfully solemn and intent old pedlar has made his appearance most +every day, and much the same ceremonies are gone through. For instance, +there was a bead necklace--the light hollowed silver enamel--he wanted +fourteen dollars for; he seemed rather glad finally to sell it for four, +though you can't say he seemed glad; on the contrary, he seemed +preternaturally gloomy and remarked that he and not we would eat +bitterness because of this purchase. The funniest thing was once when, +after getting sick of bargaining, we put the whole thing down and +started to walk away. His movements and gestures would have made an +actor celebrated--they are indescribable, but they said in effect, +"Rather than have any misunderstanding come between me and my close +personal friends I would give you free anything in my possession." The +blood rushed to his face and a smile of heavenly benignity came over it +as he handed us the things at the price we had offered him. + +The students' committees met yesterday and voted to inform the +government by telegraph that they would strike next Monday if their four +famous demands were not granted--or else five--including of course +refusal to sign the peace treaty, punishment of traitors who made the +secret treaties with Japan because they were bribed, etc. But the +committee seemed to me more conservative than the students, for the +rumor this A.M. is that they are going to strike to-day anyway. They are +especially angered because the police have forbidden them to hold +open-air meetings--that's now the subject of one of their demands--and +because the provincial legislature, after promising to help on +education, raised their own salaries and took the money to do it with +out of the small educational fund. In another district the students +rioted and rough-housed the legislative hall when this happened. Here +there was a protest committee, but the students are mad and want action. +Some of the teachers, so far as I can judge, quite sympathize with the +boys, not only in their ends but in their methods; some think it their +moral duty to urge deliberate action and try to make the students as +organized and systematic as possible, and some take the good old Chinese +ground that there is no certainty that any good will come of it. To the +outsider it looks as if the babes and sucklings who have no experience +and no precedents would have to save China--if. And it's an awful if. +It's not surprising that the Japanese with their energy and positiveness +feel that they are predestined to govern China. + +I didn't ever expect to be a jingo, but either the United States ought +to wash its hands entirely of the Eastern question, and say "it's none +of our business, fix it up yourself any way you like," or else it ought +to be as positive and aggressive in calling Japan to account for every +aggressive move she makes, as Japan is in doing them. It is sickening +that we allow Japan to keep us on the defensive and the explanatory, and +talk about the open door, when Japan has locked most of the doors in +China already and got the keys in her pocket. I understand and believe +what all Americans say here--the military party that controls Japan's +foreign policy in China regards everything but positive action, prepared +to back itself by force, as fear and weakness, and is only emboldened to +go still further. Met by force, she would back down. I don't mean +military force, but definite positive statements about what she couldn't +do that she knew meant business. At the present time the Japanese are +trying to stir up anti-foreign feeling and make the Chinese believe the +Americans and English are responsible for China not getting Shantung +back, and also talking race discrimination for the same purpose. I don't +know what effect their emissaries are having among the ignorant, but the +merchant class has about got to the point of asking foreign intervention +to straighten things out--first to loosen the clutch of Japan, and then, +or at the same time, for it's the two sides of the same thing, overthrow +the corrupt military clique that now governs China and sells it out. +It's a wonderful job for a League of Nations--if only by any chance +there is a league, which looks most dubious at this distance. + +The question which is asked oftenest by the students is in effect this: +"All of our hopes of permanent peace and internationalism having been +disappointed at Paris, which has shown that might still makes right, and +that the strong nations get what they want at the expense of the weak, +should not China adopt militarism as part of her educational system?" + + + + +NANKING, May 18. + + +There is no doubt we are in China. Hangchow, we are told, was one of the +most prosperous of the strictly Chinese cities, and after seeing this +town we can believe it. It has a big wall around it, said to be 21 miles +and also 33--my guess is the latter; nonetheless there are hundreds of +acres of farm within it. This afternoon we were taken up on the wall; it +varies from 15 to 79 feet in height, according to the lay of the ground, +and from 12 to 30 feet or so wide; hard baked brick, about as large as +three of ours. They always had a smaller walled city inside the big one, +variously called the Imperial and Manchu city. But since the revolution +they are tearing down these inner walls, partly I suppose to show their +contempt for the Manchus, and partly to use the brick. These are sold +for three or four cents apiece and carted all around on the big Chinese +wheelbarrow, by man power, of course. The compound wall of this house is +made of them, and they have several thousand of them stored at the +University grounds. They scrape them off by hand; you can get some idea +of the relative value of material and human beings. I started out to +speak of the view--typical China, deforested hills close by, all +pockmarked at the bottom with graves, like animal burrows and golf +bunkers; peasants' stone houses with thatched roofs, looking like +Ireland or France; orchards of pomegranates with lovely scarlet blossoms +and other fruits; some rice fields already growing, others being set +out, ten or a dozen people at work in one patch; garden patches, largely +melons; in the distance the wall stretching out for miles, a hill with a +pagoda, a lotus lake, and in the far distance the blue mountains--also +the city, not so much of which was visible, however. + +One of the interesting things in moving about is the fact that only once +in a while do I see a face typically Chinese. I forget they are Chinese +a great deal of the time. They just seem like dirty, poor miserable +people anywhere. They are cheerful but not playful. I should like to +give a few millions for playgrounds and toys and play leaders. I can't +but think that a great deal of the lack of initiative and the +let-George-do-it, which is the curse of China, is connected with the +fact that the children are grown up so soon. There are less than a +hundred schools for children in this city of a third of a million, and +the schools only have a few hundred--two or three at most. The children +on the street are always just looking and watching, wise, human looking, +and reasonably cheerful, but old and serious beyond bearing. Of course +many are working at the loom, or when they are younger at reeling. This +is a good deal of a silk place, and we visited one government factory +with several hundred people at work; this one at least makes out to be +self-supporting. There isn't a power reeler or loom in the town, nor yet +a loom of the Jacquard type. Sometimes a boy sits up top and shifts +things, sometimes they have six or eight foot treadles. A lot of the +reeling isn't even foot power--just hand, though their hand reeler is +much more ingenious than the Japanese one. There seem so many places to +take hold and improve things and yet all of these are so tied together, +and change is so hard that it isn't much wonder everybody who stays here +gets more or less Chinafied and takes it out in liking the Chinese +personally for their amiable qualities. + +Just now the students are forming a patriotic league because of the +present political situation, Japanese boycott, etc. But the teachers of +the Nanking University here say that instead of contenting themselves +with the two or three things they might well do, they are laying out an +ambitious scheme covering everything, and their energy will be exhausted +when they get their elaborate constitution formed, or they will meet so +many difficulties that they will get discouraged even with the things +they might do. I don't know whether I told you about the clerk in the +tailor shop in Shanghai; after taking the usual fatalistic attitude that +nothing could be done with the present situation, he said the boycott +was a good thing but "Chinaman he got weak mind; pretty soon he forget." + +In various places there are lots of straw hats hung up painted in +Chinese characters where they have stopped passersby and taken their +hats away because they were Japanese made. It is all good natured and +nobody objects. There are policemen in front of Japanese stores, and +they allow no one to enter; they are "protecting" the Japanese. This is +characteristic of China. The policemen all carry guns with bayonets +attached; they are very numerous and slouch around looking bored to +death. The only other class as bored looking is the dogs, which are even +more numerous, and lie stretched out at full length, never curled up, +and never by any chance doing anything. + +We visited the old examination halls which are now being torn down. +These are the cells, about 25,000 in number, where the candidates for +degrees used to be shut up during the examination period. Said cells are +built in long rows, under a lean-to roof, mostly opening face to face on +an open corridor, which is uncovered. Some of them face against a wall +which is the back of the next row of cells. Cells are two and one-half +feet wide by four long. In them are two ridges along the wall on each +side, one at the height of a seat, the other at the height of a table. +On these they laid two boards, two and a half feet long, and this was +their furniture. They sat and wrote and cooked and ate and slept in +these cells. In case it did not rain, their feet could stick out into +the corridor so they might stretch out on the hard floor. The exams +lasted eight days, divided into three divisions. They went in on the +eighth day of the eighth moon in the evening. They wrote the first +subject until the afternoon of the tenth. Then they left for the night. +On the afternoon of the eleventh they came in for the second subject and +wrote till the afternoon of the thirteenth, when there was another day +off. On the evening of the fourteenth they re-entered the cell for the +third period and that ended on the evening of the sixteenth. They had +free communication with each other in the corridors, which were closed +and locked. No one could approach them from the outside for any reason. +Often they died. But if they could only get put into a corridor with a +friend who knew, the biggest fool in China could get his paper written +for him, and he could pass and become an M. A., or something +corresponding to that degree. Thus were the famous literati of China +produced. Preparation for the exam was not the affair of the government, +and might be acquired in any possible way. The houses of the examiners +are still in good condition and might be made into a school very easily. +But do you think they will do that? Not at all. The government has not +ordered a school there, and so they will be torn down or else used for +some official work. You can have no conception of how far the +officialism goes till you see it. We also visited a Confucian Temple, +big and used twice each year. It is like all temples in that it is +covered with the dust of many years' accumulation. If you were to be +dropped in any Chinese temple you would think you had landed in a +deserted and forgotten ruin out of reach of man. We went to the Temple +of Hell on Sunday, and the gentleman who accompanied us suggested to the +priest that the images ought to be dusted off. "Yes," said the priest, +"it would be better if they were." + + + + +NANKING, Thursday, May 22. + + +The returned students from Japan hate Japan, but they are all at loggers +with the returned students from America, and their separate +organizations cannot get together. Many returned students have no jobs, +apparently because they will not go into business or begin at the bottom +anywhere, and there is strong hostility against them on the part of the +officials. + +As a sample of the way business is done here, we have just had an +express letter from Shanghai which took four days to arrive. It should +arrive in twelve hours. People use express letters rather than the +telegraph because they are quicker. You may spend as much time as you +like or don't like, wondering why your express letter did not reach you +on time; you do it at your own risk and expense. The Chinese do not +juggle with foreigners as the Japanese do, in the conscious sense, they +simply drift, they juggle with themselves and with each other all the +time. + +This house is four miles from the railroad station. There is no street +car here; there are many 'rickshas, a few carriages, still fewer autos. +There are no sedan chairs, at least I don't remember seeing any, but at +Chienkiang, where we went the other day, the streets are so narrow that +chairs are the main means of conveyance. The 'ricksha men here pay forty +cents a day to the city for their vehicles, which are all alike and very +poor ones. They make a little more than that sum for themselves. In +Shanghai they pay ninety cents a day for their right to work, and earn +from one dollar to a possible dollar and a half for themselves. + +I said to a young professor, the other day, that China was still +supporting three idle classes of people. He looked surprised, though a +student and critic of social conditions, and asked me who they were. +When I asked him if that couldn't be said of the officials, the priests, +and the army, he said yes, it could. Thus far and no further, seems to +be their motto, both in thinking and acting, especially in acting. + + + + +NANKING, May 23. + + +I don't believe anybody knows what the political prospects are; this +students' movement has introduced a new and uncalculable factor--and all +in the three weeks we have been here. You heard nothing but gloom about +political China at first, corrupt and traitorous officials, soldiers +only paid banditti, the officers getting the money from Japan to pay +them with, no organizing power or cohesion among the Chinese; and then +the students take things into their hands, and there is animation and a +sudden buzz. There are a hundred students being coached here to go out +and make speeches, they will have a hundred different stations scattered +through the city. It is also said the soldiers are responding to the +patriotic propaganda; a man told us that the soldiers wept when some +students talked to them about the troubles of China, and the soldiers of +Shantung, the province turned over to Japan, have taken the lead in +telegraphing the soldiers in the other provinces to resist the corrupt +traitors. Of course, what they all are afraid of is that this is a flash +in the pan, but they are already planning to make the student movement +permanent and to find something for them to do after this is settled. +Their idea here is to reorganize them for popular propaganda for +education, more schools, teaching adults, social service, etc. + +It is very interesting to compare the men who have been abroad with +those who haven't--I mean students and teachers. Those who haven't are +sort of helpless, practically; the height of literary and academic +minds. Those who have studied abroad, even in Japan, have much more go +to them. Certainly the classicists in education have a noble example +here in China of what their style of education can do if only kept up +long enough. On the other hand, there must be something esthetically +very fine in the old Chinese literature; even many of the modern young +men have a sentimental attachment to it, precisely like that which they +have to the fine writing of their characters. They talk about them with +all the art jargon: "Notice the strength of this down stroke, and the +spirituality of the cross stroke and elegant rhythm of the composition." +When we visited a temple the other day, one of the chief Buddhist +shrines in China, we were presented with a rubbing of the writing of the +man who is said to be the finest writer ever known in China--these +characters were engraved in the rock from his writing some centuries +ago--I don't know how many. It is very easy to see how cultivated people +take refuge in art and spirituality when politics are corrupt and the +general state of social life is discouraging; you see it here, and how +in the end it increases the decadence. + +I think we wrote you from Shanghai that we had been introduced to all +the mysteries of China, ancient eggs, sharks' fins, birds' nests, pigeon +eggs, the eight precious treasures, rice pudding, and so on. We continue +to have Chinese meals; yesterday lunch in the home of an adviser to a +military official. He is very outspoken, doesn't trim in politics, and +gives you a more hopeful feeling about China. The most depressing thing +is hearing it said, "When we get a stable government, we can do so and +so, but there is no use at present." But this man's attitude is rather, +"Damn the government and go ahead and do something." He is very proud of +having a "happy, Christian home" and doesn't cover up his Christianity +as most of the official and wealthy class seem to do. He expects to have +his daughters educated in America, one in medicine and one in home +affairs, and to have help in a campaign for changing the character of +the Chinese home--from these big aggregates of fifty people or so living +together, married children, servants, etc., where he says the waste is +enormous, to say nothing of bickerings and jealousies. In the old type +of well-to-do home, breakfast would begin for someone about seven, and +someone would have cooking done for him to eat till noon; then about +two, visitors would come, and the servants would be ordered to cook +something for each caller--absolutely no organization or planning in +anything, according to him. + + + + +NANKING, Monday, May 26. + + +The trouble among the students is daily getting worse, and even the most +sympathetic among the faculties are getting more and more anxious. The +governor of this province, capital here, is thought most liberal, and he +has promised to support these advanced measures in education. Last +Friday the assembly passed a bill cutting down the educational +appropriation and raising their own salaries. Therefore the students +here are now all stirred up and the faculties are afraid they cannot be +kept in control until they are well enough organized to make a strike +effective. At the same time our friends are kept busy running up to the +assembly and the governor. The latter has promised to veto the bill when +it is sent to him from the senate. But the students are getting anxious +to go to the senate themselves. Our friends say it costs so much for +these men to get elected that they have to get it all back after they +get into office. A missionary says: "Let's go out and shoot them all, +they are just as bad as Peking, and if they had the same chance they +would sell out the whole country to Japan or to anyone else." Certainly +China needs education all along the line, but they never will get it as +long as they try in little bits. So maybe they will have to be pushed to +the very bottom before they will be ready to go the whole hog or none. + +Yesterday a Chinese lady had a tea for me and asked the Taitai, as the +wives of the officials are called, corresponding to the court ladies of +previous times. As a function this was interesting, for every woman +brought her servant and most of her children. Some appeared to have two +servants, one big-footed maid for herself and one bound-footed as a +nurse for the children. Her own servant hands her the cup of tea. All +the children are fed at the same time as the grown-ups, and after their +superiors the servants get something in the kitchen. I don't know yet +what that something is, but probably an inferior tea. The tea we drank +is that famous jasmine tea from Hangchow. It costs something like +fifteen dollars a pound here. It is very good, with a peculiar spicy +flavor, almost musky and smoky, from the jasmine combined with the tea +flavor, which is strong. It is a delicious brown tea, but I do not like +to drink it so well as I like the best green tea. + +Well, I wish you could see the Taitai. The wife of the governor is about +twenty-five, or may be a little more. She is a substantial young person, +with full-grown feet, a pale blue dress of skirt and coat scalloped on +the edges and bound with black satin, her nice hair parted to one side +on the right and pinned above her left ear with a white artificial rose. +Her maid had black coat and trousers. She had some bracelets on, but her +jewels were less beautiful than those of the other women. One very +pretty woman had buttons on her coat of emeralds surrounded with pearls, +and on her arm a lovely bracelet of pearls. After tea, the great ladies +went into an inner room, with the exception of two. One of these two had +a very sad face. I watched her and finally had a chance to ask her how +many children she had. She said she had none, but she would like to have +a daughter. I was told after that her husband was a Christian pastor and +she was trying to be Christian. The other one who stayed was the pretty +one with the emerald buttons. I finally decided the ladies had left us +to play their cards and asked if I might go and see them. They were not +playing cards, but had just gone off to gossip among themselves, +probably about the foreigners. One of the ladies said she would take me +some day to see their card games. It is said they play in the morning +and in the afternoon and all the night till the next morning when they +go to bed. It is commonly said this is all they do, and the losses are +very disastrous sometimes. + +But they were not playing then and came back, some of them with their +children, and sat in the rows of chairs, sixteen of them, and some amahs +around the room, while I talked to them. I told stories about what the +American women did in the war and they stared with amazement. I had to +explain what a gas mask is, but they knew what killing is and what high +class is. Their giggles were quite encouraging to intercourse. A nice +young lady from the college interpreted, and when I stopped I asked them +to tell me something about their lives. So the governor's wife was at +last persuaded to give an account of how she brought up her children. +They are all free from self-consciousness, and though they have little +manners in our sense of the word, they have a self-possession and +gentleness combined which gives a very graceful appearance. The +governor's wife says she has two little boys, the eldest six years of +age. In the morning he has a Chinese tutor. After dinner, she teaches +him music, of which she is very fond. After that he plays till +five-thirty, has supper, plays again a little while before going to bed, +and then bed. At thirteen the boy will be sent away to school. I asked +her what about girls, and she said that her little niece was the first +one in her family to be sent to school, but this ten-year-old one is in +Tientsin at a boarding school. + + + + +PEKING, Sunday, June 1. + + +We met a young man here from an interior province who is trying to get +money for teachers who haven't received their pay for a long time. +Meantime over sixty per cent of the entire national expenses is going to +the military, and the army is worse than useless. In many provinces it +is composed of brigands and everywhere is practically under the control +of the tuchuns or military governors, who are corrupt and use the pay +roll to increase their graft and the army to increase their power of +local oppression, while the head military man is openly pro-Japanese. + +There is a lull in our affairs just now. We agreed yesterday that never +in our lives had we begun to learn as much as in the last four months. +And the last month particularly, there has been almost too much food to +be digestible. Talk about the secretive and wily East. Compared, say, +with Europe, they hand information out to you here on a platter (though +it must be admitted the labels are sometimes mixed) and sandbag you with +it. + +Yesterday we went to the Western Hills where are the things you see in +the pictures, including the stone boat, the base of which is really +marble and as fine as the pictures. But all the rest of it is just +theatrical fake, more or less peeling off at that. However, it is as +wonderful as it is cracked up to be, and in some ways more systematic +than Versailles, which is what you naturally compare it to. The finest +thing architecturally is a Buddhist temple with big tiles, each of which +has a Buddha on--for further details see movie or something. We walked +somewhat higher than Russian Hill, including a journey through the caves +in an artificial mountain such as the Chinese delight in, clear up to +this temple. The Manchu family seems to own the thing yet, and charge a +big sum, or rather several sums, a la Niagara Falls, to get +about--another evidence that China needs another revolution, or rather +_a_ revolution, the first one having got rid of a dynasty and left, as +per my previous letters, a lot of corrupt governors in charge of chaos. +The only thing that I can see that keeps things together at all is that +while a lot of these generals and governors would like to grab more for +their individual selves, they are all afraid the whole thing would come +down round their ears if anyone made a definite move. Status quo is +China's middle name, mostly status and a little quo. I have one more +national motto to add to "You Never Can Tell" and "Let George Do It." It +is, "That is very bad." Instead of concealing things, they expose all +their weak and bad points very freely, and after setting them forth most +calmly and objectively, say "That is very bad." I don't know whether it +is possible for a people to be too reasonable, but it is certainly too +possible to take it out in being reasonable--and that's them. However, +it makes them wonderful companions. You can hardly blame the Japanese +for wanting to run them and supply the necessary pep when they decline +to run themselves. You certainly see the other side of the famous +one-track mind of Japan over here, as well as of other things. If you +keep doing something all the time, I don't know whether you need even a +single track mind. All you have to do is to keep going where you started +for, while others keep wobbling or never get started. + +Well, this morning we went to the famous museum, and there is one thing +where China is still ahead. It is housed in some of the old palaces and +audience halls of the inner, or purple, forbidden City. With the yellow +porcelain roofs, and the blue and green and gold, and the red walls, it +is really the barbaric splendor you read about, and about the first +thing that comes up to the conventional idea of what is Oriental. The +Hindoo influence is much stronger here than anywhere else we have been, +or else really Thibetan, I suppose, and many things remind one of the +Moorish. The city of Peking was a thousand years building, and was laid +out on a plan when the capitals of Europe were purely haphazard, so +there is no doubt they have organizing power all right if they care to +use it. The museum is literally one of treasures, porcelains, bronzes, +jade, etc., not an historic or antiquated museum. It costs ten cents to +get into the park here and much more into the museum, a dollar or more, +I guess, and we got the impression that it was fear of the crowd and the +populace rather than the money which controls; the rate is too high for +revenue purposes. + + + + +PEKING, June 1. + + +We have just seen a few hundred girls march away from the American Board +Mission school to go to see the President to ask him to release the boy +students who are in prison for making speeches on the street. To say +that life in China is exciting is to put it fairly. We are witnessing +the birth of a nation, and birth always comes hard. I may as well begin +at the right end and tell you what has happened while things have been +moving so fast I could not get time to write. Yesterday we went to see +the temples of Western Hills, conducted by one of the members of the +Ministry of Education. As we were running along the big street that +passes the city wall we saw students speaking to groups of people. This +was the first time the students had appeared for several days. We asked +the official if they would not be arrested, and he said, "No, not if +they keep within the law and do not make any trouble among the people." +This morning when we got the paper it was full of nothing else. The +worst thing is that the University has been turned into a prison with +military tents all around it and a notice on the outside that this is a +prison for students who disturb the peace by making speeches. As this is +all illegal, it amounts to a military seizure of the University and +therefore all the faculty will have to resign. They are to have a +meeting this afternoon to discuss the matter. After that is over, we +will probably know what has happened again. The other thing we heard was +that in addition to the two hundred students locked up in the Law +Building, two students were taken to the Police rooms and flogged on the +back. Those two students were making a speech and were arrested and +taken before the officers of the gendarmerie. Instead of shutting up as +they were expected to do, the boys asked some questions of these +officers that were embarrassing to answer. The officers then had them +flogged on the back. Thus far no one has been able to see any of the +officers. If the officers denied the accusation then the reporters would +ask to see the two prisoners on the principle that the officers could +have no reason for refusing that request unless the story were true. We +saw students making speeches this morning about eleven, when we started +to look for houses, and heard later that they had been arrested, that +they carried tooth brushes and towels in their pockets. Some stories say +that not two hundred but a thousand have been arrested. There are about +ten thousand striking in Peking alone. The marching out of those girls +was evidently a shock to their teachers and many mothers were there to +see them off. The girls were going to walk to the palace of the +President, which is some long distance from the school. If he does not +see them, they will remain standing outside all night and they will stay +there till he does see them. I fancy people will take them food. We +heard the imprisoned students got bedding at four this morning but no +food till after that time. There is water in the building and there is +room for them to lie on the floor. They are cleaner than they would be +in jail, and of course much happier for being together. + + + + +PEKING, June 2. + + +Maybe you would like to know a little about how we look this morning and +how we are living. In the first place, this is a big hotel with a bath +in each room. On a big street opposite to us is the wall of the legation +quarter, which has trees in it and big roofs which represent all that +China ought to have and has not. The weather is like our hot July, +except that it is drier than the August drought on Long Island. The +streets of Peking are the widest in the world, I guess, and ours leads +by the red walls of the Chinese city with the wonderful gates of which +you see pictures. It is macadamized in the middle, but on each side of +it run wider roads, which are used for the traffic. Thank your stars +there are good horses in Peking; men do not pull all the heavy loads. +The two side roads are worn down in deep ruts and these ruts are filled +with dust like finest ashes, and all thrown up into the air whenever a +man steps on it or a cart moves through. Our room faces the south on +this road. All day long the sun pours through the bamboo shades and the +hot air brings in that gray dust, and everything you touch, including +your own skin, is gritty and has a queer dry feeling that makes you +think you ought to run for water. I am learning to shut the windows and +inner blinds afternoons. Isn't it strange that in the latitude of New +York this drought should be expected every spring? In spite of all this +the fields have crops growing, thinly, to be sure, on the hard gray +fields. There are very few trees, and they are not of the biggest. The +grain is already about fit to cut, and the onions are ripe. After a +while it will rain and rain much and then new crops will be put in. The +flowers are almost gone and I am sorry that we did not see the famous +peonies. You will be interested to know that they keep the peonies +small; even the tree kind are cut down till they are the size of those +little ones of mine. The tuber peonies are transplanted each year or in +some way kept small and the blossoms are lovely and little. I have seen +white rose peonies and at first thought they were roses. The buds look +almost like the buds of our big white roses and they are very fragrant. +The peony beds are laid out in terraces held in place by brick walls, +usually oblong or oval, something like a huge pudding mold on a table. +Other times they are planted on the flat and surrounded by bamboo fences +of fancy design and geometrical pattern, usually with a square form to +include each division. The inner city has many peony beds of that sort, +both the tree and tuber kind, but they have only leaves to show now. + +Yesterday we went to the summer palace and to-day we are going to the +museum. That is really inside the Forbidden City, so at last we shall +set foot on the sacred ground. The summer palace is really wonderful, +but sad now, like all things made on too ambitious a scale to fit into +the uses of life. There is a mile of loggia ornamented with the green +and blue and red paintings which you see imitated. Through a window we +had a peek at the famous portrait of old Tsu Hsu and she looks just as +she did when I saw it exhibited in New York. The strange thing about it +is that it is still owned by the Hsu family. Huge rolls of costly rugs +and curtains lie in piles round the room and everything is covered with +this fine dust so thick that it is not possible to tell the color of a +table top. Cloissonné vases, or rather images of the famous blue ware +stand under the old lady's portrait, and everything is going to rack and +ruin. Meantime we wandered around, planning how it could be made over +into use when the revolution comes. Get rid of the idea that China has +had a revolution and is a republic; that point is just where we have +been deceived in the United States. China is at present the rotten +crumbling remnant of the old bureaucracy that surrounded the corruption +of the Manchus and that made them possible. The little Emperor is living +here in his palace surrounded by his eunuchs and his tutors and his two +mothers. He is fourteen and it is really funny to think that they have +just left him Emperor, but as he has not money except what the republic +votes him from year to year, nobody worries about him, unless it is the +Japanese, who want the imperial government restored until they get ready +to take it themselves. It looks as if they might be ready now except for +the nudge which has just been given to the peace conference. You had +better read a book about this situation, for it is the most surprising +affair in a lifetime. + +Yesterday we went to see a friend's house. It is interesting and I +should like to live in one like it. There is no water except what the +water man brings every day. This little house has eighteen rooms around +a court. It means four separate roofs and going outdoors to get from one +to another. When the mercury is at twenty below zero it would mean that +just the same. All the ground floors have stone floors. We did not see +all the rooms; there are paper windows in some and glass windows in +some. In summer they put on a temporary roof of mats over the court. It +is higher than the roofs and so allows ventilation and gives good shade. + + + + +June 5. + + +This is Thursday morning, and last night we heard that about one +thousand students were arrested the day before. Yesterday afternoon a +friend got a pass which permitted him to enter the building where the +students were confined. They have filled up the building of Law, and +have begun on the Science building, in consequence of which the faculty +have to go to the Missionary buildings to-day to hold their faculty +meeting. At four yesterday afternoon, the prisoners who had been put in +that day at ten had had no food. One of our friends went out and got the +University to appropriate some money and they ordered a carload of bread +sent in. This bread means some little biscuit sometimes called raised +biscuit at home. I think carload means one of the carts in which they +are delivered. At any rate, the boys had some food, though not at the +expense of the police. On the whole, the checkmate of the police seems +surely impending. They will soon have the buildings full, as the +students are getting more and more in earnest, and the most incredible +part of it is that the police are surprised. They really thought the +arrests would frighten the others from going on. So everybody is getting +an education. This morning one of our friends here is going to take us +up to the University to see the military encampment, and I hope he will +take us inside also, though I hardly think he will do the latter. + +As near as I can find out, the Chinese have reached that interesting +stage of development when they must do something for women and do as +little as they can, but in case they must have a girls' school they find +that a convenient place to unload an antiquated official who really +can't be endured any longer by real folks. + +No one can tell to-day what the students' strike will bring next; it may +bring a revolution, it may do anything surprising to the police, who +seem to be as lacking in imagination as police are famous for being. +Everyone here is getting ready to flee for the summer, which is very hot +during July. On the whole, the heat is perhaps less hard to endure than +the heat of New York, as it is so dry. But the dryness has its own +effect and when those hard winds blow up the dust storms it gets on the +nerves. Dust heaps up inside the house, and cuts the skin both inside +and outside of the body. This is a lucky day, being cloudy and a little +damp as if it might rain. + +The Western Hill was an experience to remember. Stepping from a Ford +limousine to a chair carried by four men and an outwalker alongside, we +were thus taken by fifteen men to the temples, your father, an officer +from the Department of Education, and I. The men walked over the paths +in the dust and on stones which no one thinks of picking up. It was so +astounding to call it a pleasure resort that we could only stare and +remain dumb. We saw three temples and one royal garden. Five hundred +Buddhas in one building, and all the buildings tumble-down and dirty. On +top of one hill is a huge building which cost a million or more to build +about four hundred years ago by someone for his tomb. Then he did +something wrong, probably stole from the wrong person, and was not +allowed to be buried there. Round the temple places the trees remain and +give a refreshing oasis, and there are some beautiful springs. All the +time we kept saying, "Trees ought to be planted." "Yes, but they take so +long to grow," or, "Yes, but they will not grow, it is so dry," etc. +Sometimes they would say, "Yes, we must plant some trees," or more +likely, "Yes, I think we may plant some trees sometime, but we have an +Arbor Day and the people cut down the trees or else they did." We would +show that the trees would grow because they were there round the +temples, and besides grass was growing and trees would grow where grass +would grow in such dry weather, and they would say the same things over. +It made the little forestry station in Nanking seem like a monumental +advance, while that fearful sun was beating up the dust under the stones +as the men gave us the Swedish massage in the motion of the chairs. +Fifty men and more stood around as we got in and out of the car and five +men apiece stood and waited for us as we walked round the temple and ate +our lunch and spent the time sipping tea, and yet they cannot plant +trees, and that is China. + +The whole country is covered every inch with stones. Nature has supplied +them, and falling walls are everywhere. We saw one great thing, however. +They are building a new school house and orphanage for the children of +that village. Many of the children are naked everywhere hereabouts and +they stand with sunburned heads, their backs covered only with coats of +dirt, eating their bean food in the street. Everywhere the food is laid +out on tables by the roadside ready to eat. In one temple, a certain +official here has promised to rebuild a small shrine which houses the +laughing Buddha, who is made of bronze and was once covered with +lacquer, which is now mostly split off. At present the only shade the +god has is a roof of mats which they have braced up on the pile of ruins +that once made a roof. The President of the Republic has built a lovely +big gate like the old ones, because it is propitious and would bring him +good fortune. But he has decided it was not propitious, something went +wrong with the gods, I did not learn what it was; anyway, he is now +tearing down one of the big buttresses on one side of it to see if fate +will treat him more kindly then. Just what he wants of fate I did not +learn either, but perhaps it is that fate should make him Emperor, as +that seems to be their idea of curing poverty and political evils. I +forgot to say that they never remove ruins; everything is left to lie as +it falls or is falling, so one gets a good idea of how gods are +constructed. Most of them were of clay, a sort of concrete built up on a +wood frame, and badly as they need wood I have never seen a sign of +piling up the fallen beams of a temple. Instead of that, you risk your +life by walking under these falling roofs unless you have the sense to +look after your own safety. In most of these Peking temples they do +sweep the floors and even some of the statues look as if they had some +time been dusted, though this last I am not certain about. + + + + +PEKING, June 5. + + +As has been remarked before, you never can tell. The students were +stirred up by orders dissolving their associations, and by the +"mandates" criticising the Japanese boycott and telling what valuable +services the two men whose dismissal was demanded had rendered the +country. So they got busy--the students. They were also angered because +the industrial departments of two schools were ordered closed by the +police. In these departments the students had set about seeing what +things of Japanese importation could be replaced by hand labor without +waiting for capital. After they worked it out in the school they went +out to the shops and taught the people how to make them, and then +peddled them about, making speeches at the same time. Well, yesterday +when we went about we noticed that the students were speaking more than +usual, and while the streets were full of soldiers the students were not +interfered with; in the afternoon a procession of about a thousand +students was even escorted by the police. Then in the evening a +telephone came from the University that the tents around the University +buildings where the students were imprisoned had been struck and the +soldiers were all leaving. Then the students inside held a meeting and +passed a resolution asking the government whether they were guaranteed +freedom of speech, because if they were not, they would not leave the +building merely to be arrested again, as they planned to go on speaking. +So they embarrassed the government by remaining in "jail" all night. We +haven't heard to-day what has happened, but the streets are free of +soldiers, and there were no students talking anywhere we went, so I +fancy a truce has been arranged while they try and fix things up. The +government's ignominious surrender was partly due to the fact that the +places of detention were getting full and about twice as many students +spoke yesterday as the day before, when they arrested a thousand, and +the government for the first time realized that they couldn't bulldoze +the students; it was also partly due to the fact that the merchants in +Shanghai struck the day before yesterday, and there is talk that the +Peking merchants are organizing for the same purpose. This is, once +more, a strange country; the so-called republic is a joke; all it has +meant so far is that instead of the Emperor having a steady job, the job +of ruling and looting is passed around to the clique that grabs power. +One of the leading militarist party generals invited his dearest enemy +to breakfast a while ago--within the last few months--in Peking, and +then lined his guest against the wall and had him shot. Did this affect +his status? He is still doing business at the old stand. But in some +ways there is more democracy than we have; leaving out the women, there +is complete social equality, and while the legislature is a perfect +farce, public opinion, when it does express itself, as at the present +time, has remarkable influence. Some think the worst officials will now +resign and get out, others that the militarists will attempt a coup +d'état and seize still more power rather than back down. Fortunately, +the latter seem to be divided at the present time. But all of the +student (and teacher) crowd are much afraid that even if the present +gang is thrown out, it will be only to replace them by another set just +as bad, so they are refraining from appealing to the army for help. + +Later.--The students have now asked that the chief of police come +personally to escort them out and make an apology. In many ways, it +seems like an opéra bouffe, but there is no doubt that up to date they +have shown more shrewdness and policy than the government, and are +getting the latter where it is a laughing stock, which is fatal in +China. But the government isn't inactive; they have appointed a new +Minister of Education and a new Chancellor of the University, both +respectable men, with no records and colorless characters. It is likely +the Faculty will decline to receive the new Chancellor unless he makes a +satisfactory declaration--which he obviously can't, and thus the row +will begin all over again, with the Faculty involved. If the government +dared, it would dissolve the University, but the scholar has a sacred +reputation in China. + + + + +June 7. + + +The whole story of the students is funny and not the least funny part is +that last Friday the students were speaking and parading with banners +and cheers and the police standing near them like guardian angels, no +one being arrested or molested. We heard that one student pouring out +hot eloquence was respectfully requested to move his audience along a +little for the reason that they were so numerous in statu quo as to +impede traffic, and the policeman would not like to be held responsible +for interfering with the traffic. Meantime, Saturday the government sent +an apology to the students who were still in prison of their own free +will waiting for the government to apologize and to give them the +assurance of free speech, etc. The students are said to have left the +building yesterday morning, though we have no accurate information. The +Faculty of the University met and refused to recognize or accept the new +Chancellor. They sent a committee to the government to tell them that, +and one to the Chancellor to tell him also and to ask him to resign. It +seems the newly-appointed Chancellor used to be at the head of the +engineering school of the University, but he was kicked out in the +political struggle. He is an official of the Yuan Shi Kai school and has +become a rich rubber merchant in Malay, and anyway they do not want a +mere rubber merchant as President of the University, and they think they +may so explain that to the new Chancellor that he will not look upon the +office as so attractive as he thought it was. + +There is complete segregation in this city in all public gatherings, the +women at the theaters are put off in one of those real galleries such as +we think used to be and are not now. The place for the women in the hall +of the Board of Education is good enough and on one side facing the hall +so that all the men can look at them freely and so protect that famous +modesty which I have heard more of in China than for many years +previously. + +Gasoline is one dollar a gallon here and a Ford car costs $1900. Ivory +soap five for one dollar. Clean your dress for $2.50. Tooth paste one +dollar a tube, vaseline 50 cents a small bottle. Washing three cents +each, including dresses and men's coats and shirts; fine cook ten +dollars a month. They have a very good one here, and I am going right on +getting fat on delicious Chinese food. The new Rockefeller Institute, +called the Union Medical College, is very near here, and they are making +beautiful buildings in the old Chinese style, to say nothing of their +Hygiene. They have just decided to open it to women, but I am rather +suspicious the requirements will prevent the women's using it at first. + +Peking is still much of a capital city and is divided into the diplomats +and the missionaries. It seems there is not much lacking except the old +Dowager Empress to make up the old Peking. + + + + +PEKING, June 10. + + +The students have taken the trick and won the game at the present +moment--I decline to predict the morrow when it comes to China. Sunday +morning I lectured at the auditorium of the Board of Education and at +that time the officials there didn't know what had happened. But the +government sent what is called a pacification delegate to the +self-imprisoned students to say that the government recognized that it +had made a mistake and apologized. Consequently the students marched +triumphantly out, and yesterday their street meetings were bigger and +more enthusiastic than ever. The day before they had hooted at four +unofficial delegates who had asked them to please come out of jail, but +who hadn't apologized. But the biggest victory is that it is now +reported that the government will to-day issue a mandate dismissing the +three men who are always called traitors--yesterday they had got to the +point of offering to dismiss one, the one whose house was attacked by +the students on the fourth of May, but they were told that that wouldn't +be enough, so now they have surrendered still more. Whether this will +satisfy the striking merchants or whether they will make further +demands, having won the first round, doesn't yet appear. There are lots +of rumors, of course. One is that the backdown is not only due to the +strike of merchants, but to a fear that the soldiers could no longer be +counted upon. There was even a rumor that a regiment at Western Hills +was going to start for Peking to side with the students. Rumors are one +of China's strong suits. When you realize that we have been here less +than six weeks, you will have to admit that we have been seeing life. +For a country that is regarded at home as stagnant and unchanging, there +is certainly something doing. + +This is the world's greatest kaleidoscope. + +Wilson's Decoration Day Address has just been published; perhaps it +sounds academic at home, but over here Chinese at least regard it as +very practical--as, in fact, a definite threat. On the other hand, we +continue to get tales of how the Washington State Department has +declined to take the reports sent from here as authentic. Lately they +have had a number of special agents over here, more or less secret, to +get independent information. + +In talking about democratic developments in America, whenever I make a +remark such as the Americans do not depend upon the government to do +things for them, but go ahead and do things for themselves, the response +is immediate and emphatic. The Chinese are socially a very democratic +people and their centralized government bores them. + + + + +June 16. + + +Chinesewise speaking, we are now having another lull. The three +"traitors" have had their resignations accepted, the cabinet is +undergoing reconstruction, the strike has been called off, both of +students and merchants (the railwaymen striking was the last straw), and +the mystery is what will happen next. There are evidences that the +extreme militarists are spitting on their hands to take hold in spite of +their defeat, and also that the President, who is said to be a moderate +and skillful politician, is nursing things along to get matters more and +more into his own hands. Although he issued a mandate against the +students and commending the traitors, the students' victory seems to +have strengthened him. I can't figure it out, but it is part of the +general beginning to read at the back of the book. The idea seems to be +that he has demonstrated the weakness of the militarists in the country, +while in sticking in form by them he has given them no excuse for +attacking him. They are attacking most everybody else in anonymous +circulars. One was got out signed "Thirteen hundred and fifty-eight +students," but giving no names, saying that the sole object of the +strike was to regain Tsingtao, but that a few men had tried to turn the +movement to their own ends, one wishing to be Chancellor of the +University. + + + + +PEKING, June 20. + + +Some time ago I had decided to tell you that here I had found the human +duplication of the bee colony in actual working order. China is it, and +in all particulars lives up to the perfect socialization of the race. +Nobody can do anything alone, nobody can do anything in a hurry. The +hunt of the bee for her cell goes on before one's eyes all the time. +When found, lo, the discovery that the cell was there all the time. Let +me give you an example. + +We go to the art school for lectures, enter by a door at the end of a +long hall. Behind that hall is another large room and in back of the +second room somewhere is a place where the men make the tea. Near the +front door where we enter is the table where we are always asked to sit +down before and after the lecture, whereat we sit down to partake of tea +and other beverages, such as soda. Well, the teacups are kept in a +cabinet at the front end of the first room right near the entrance door. +Comes a grown man from the rear somewhere; silently and with stately +tread he walks across the long room to the cabinet, takes one teacup in +each hand and retreads the space towards the back. After sufficient time +he returns bearing in his two hands these cups filled with hot tea. He +puts these down on the table for us and then he takes two more cups from +the cabinet, and retires once more, returning later as before. When +bottles are opened they are brought near the table, because otherwise +the soda would be spoiled in carrying open, never to save steps. + +The Chinese kitchen is always several feet from the dining room, under a +separate roof. Often you must cross a court in the open to get from one +to another. As it has not rained since we have been here, I do not know +what happens to the soup under the umbrella. But remember, the beehive +is the thing in China, and it is the old-fashioned beehive in the +barrel. When you look at the men who are doing it all they have the air +of strong, quiet beings who might do almost anything, but when you get +acquainted with them, how they do almost nothing is a marvelous +achievement. At Ching Hua College, said being the famous Boxer Indemnity +College, the houses are new and built by American initiative, and the +kitchen is forty feet from the dining room door in those. I will not +describe the kitchens, but when you see the clay stoves crumbling in +places, no sink, and one window on one side of the rather dark room, a +little room where the cook sleeps on a board and where both the men eat +their own frugal meals, it is all the Middle Ages undisturbed. + + + + +PEKING, June 20. + + +Last weekend we went out about ten miles to Ching Hua College; this is +the institution started with the returned Boxer Indemnity Fund; it's a +high school with about two years college work; they have just graduated +sixty or seventy who are going to America next year to finish up. They +go all around, largely to small colleges and the Middle West state +institutions, a good many to Tech and a number to Stevens, though none +go to Columbia, because it is in a big city; just what improvement +Hoboken is I don't know. China is full of Columbia men, but they went +there for graduate work. No doubt it is wise keeping them away from a +big city at first. Except for the instruction in Chinese, the teaching +is all done in English, and the boys seem to speak English quite well +already. It's a shame the way they will be treated, the insults they +will have to put up with in America before they get really adjusted. And +then when they get back here they have even a worse time getting +readjusted. They have been idealizing their native land at the same time +that they have got Americanized without knowing it, and they have a hard +time to get a job to make a living. They have been told that they are +the future saviors of their country and then their country doesn't want +them for anything at all--and they can't help making comparisons and +realizing the backwardness of China and its awful problems. At the same +time at the bottom of his heart probably every Chinese is convinced of +the superiority of Chinese civilization--and maybe they are right--three +thousand years is quite a spell to hold on. + +You may come over here some time in your life, so it will do no harm to +learn about the money--_about_ it, nobody but the Chinese bankers ever +learn it. There are eleven dimes in a dollar and six twenty-cent pieces, +and while there are only eleven coppers in a dime, there are one hundred +and thirty-eight in a dollar. Consequently the thrifty always carry a +pound or two of big coppers with them to pay 'ricksha men with. Then +there are various kinds of paper money. We are going to Western Hills +tomorrow night, and under instructions I bought some dollars at +sixty-five cents apiece which are good for a whole dollar on this +railway and apparently nowhere else. On the contrary, the foreigners are +done all the time at the hotels; there they only give you five +twenty-cent pieces in change for a dollar, and so on--but they are run +by foreigners, and not by the wily Chinese. One thing you will be glad +to know is that Peking is Americanized to the extent that we have ice +cream at least once a day, two big helpings. This helps. + +A word to the wise. Never ask a Chinese whether it is going to rain, or +any other question about the coming weather. The turtle is supposed to +be a weather prophet, and as the turtle is regarded as the vilest +creature on earth, you can see what an insult such a question is. One of +their subtle compliments to the Japanese during the late campaign was to +take a straw hat, of Japanese make, which they had removed from a +passerby's head, and cut it into the likeness of a turtle and then nail +it up on a telephone post. + +I find, by the way, that I didn't do the students justice when I +compared their first demonstration here to a college boys' roughhouse; +the whole thing was planned carefully, it seems, and was even pulled off +earlier than would otherwise have been the case, because one of the +political parties was going to demonstrate soon, and they were afraid +their movement (coming at the same time) would make it look as if they +were an agency of the political faction, and they wanted to act +independently as students. To think of kids in our country from fourteen +on, taking the lead in starting a big cleanup reform politics movement +and shaming merchants and professional men into joining them. This is +sure some country. + + + + +PEKING, June 23. + + +Last night we had a lovely dinner at the house of a Chinese official. +All the guests were men except me and the fourteen-year-old daughter of +the house. She was educated in an English school here and speaks +beautiful English, besides being a talented and interesting girl. +Chinese girls at her age seem older than ours. The family consists of +five children and two wives. I found the reason the daughter was hostess +was that it was embarrassing to choose between the two wives for hostess +and they didn't want to give us a bad impression, so no wife appeared. +We were given to understand that the reason for the non-appearance was +that mother was sick. There is a new little baby six weeks old. The +father is a delicate, refined little man, very proud of his children and +fond of them, and they were all brought out to see us, even the six +weeks older, who was very hot in a little red dress. Our host is the +leader of a party of liberal progressives, and also an art collector. We +had hopes he would show us his collection of things. He did not, except +for the lovely porcelain that was on the table. The house is big and +behind the wall of the Purple City, as they call the old Forbidden City, +and it looks on the famous old pagoda, so it was interesting. We sat in +the court for coffee and there seemed to be many more courts leading on +one behind another as they do here, sometimes fourteen or more, with +chains of houses around each one. + +As for the dinner, I forgot to say that the cook is a remarkable man, +Fukien, who gave us the most delicious Chinese cookery with French names +attached on the menu. Cooking is apt to be named geographically here. +Most everyone in Peking came from somewhere else, just as should be in a +capital city. But they seem to keep the cooks and cook in accordance +with the predilections of the old home province. They have adopted ice +cream, showing the natural sense of the race, but the daughter of our +host told me that they do not give it to the sick, as they still have +the idea that the sick should have nothing cold. + +They are now thrashing the wheat in this locality. That consists of +cutting it with the sickle and having the women and children glean. The +main crop is scattered on the floor, as it is called, being a hard piece +of ground near the house, and then the wheat is treaded out by a pair of +donkeys attached to a roller about as big as our garden roller. After it +is out of the husk, it is winnowed by being tossed in the breeze, which +takes the time of a number of people and leaves in a share of the mother +earth. The crops are very thin round this region and they say that they +are thinner than usual, as this is a drier year than usual. Corn is +small, but there is some growing between here and the hills where we +went, always in the little pieces of ground, of course. Peanuts and +sweet potatoes are planted now, and they seem to be growing well in the +dust, which has been wet by the recent day of rain. + + + + +PEKING, June 25. + + +Simple facts for home consumption. All boards in China are sawed by +hand--two men and a saw, like a cross-cut buck-saw. At the new Hotel de +Peking, a big building, instead of carrying window casings ready to put +in, they are carrying big logs cut the proper length for a casing. +Spitting is a common accomplishment. When a school girl wants excuse to +leave her seat she walks across the room and spits vigorously in the +spittoon. Little melons are now ready to eat. They come like ripe +cucumbers, small, rather sweet. Coolies and boys eat them, skins and +all, on the street. Children eat small green apples. Peaches are +expensive, but those who can get the green hard ones eat them raw. The +potted pomegranates are now in bloom and also in fruit in the pots. The +color is a wonderful scarlet. The lotus ponds are in bloom--wonderful +color in a deep rose. When the buds are nearly ready to open they look +as if they were about to explode and fill the air with their intense +color. The huge leaves are brilliant and lovely--light green and +delicately veined. But the lotus was never made for art, and only +religion could have made it acceptable to art. The sacred ponds are well +kept and are in the old moats of the Purple City--Forbidden. There are +twice as many men in Peking as women. + +Sunday we went to a Chinese wedding. It was at the Naval Club--no +difference in appearance from our ceremony. Bride and groom both in the +conventional foreign dress. They had a ring. At the supper there were +six tables full of men, and three partly full of women and children. +Women take their children and their amahs everywhere in China--I mean +wherever they go and provided they want to; it is the custom. None of +the men spoke to the women at the wedding--except rare returned +students. Eggs cost $1.00 for 120--we get all we want in our boarding +house. Men take birds out for walks--either in cages or with one leg +tied to a string attached to a stick on which the bird perches. + + + + +PEKING, June 27. + + +It's a wonder we were ever let out of Japan at all. It's fatal; I could +now tell after reading ten lines of the writings of any traveler whether +he ever journeyed beyond a certain point. You have to hand it to the +Japanese. Their country is beautiful, their treatment of visitors is +beautiful, and they have the most artistic knack of making the visible +side of everything beautiful, or at least attractive. Deliberate deceit +couldn't be one-tenth as effective; it's a real gift of art. They are +the greatest manipulators of the outside of things that ever lived. I +realized when I was there that they were a nation of specialists, but I +didn't realize that foreign affairs and diplomacy were also such a +specialized art. + +The new acting Minister of Education has invited us to dinner soon. This +man doesn't appear to have any past educational record, but he has +pursued a conciliatory course; the other one resigned and disappeared +when he found he couldn't control things. The really liberal element +does not appear to be strong enough at present to influence politics +practically. The struggle is between the extreme militarists, who are +said to be under Japanese influence, and the group of somewhat colorless +moderates headed by the President. As he gets a chance he appears to be +putting his men in. The immediate gain seems to be negative in keeping +the other crowd out instead of positive, but they are at least honest +and will probably respond when there is enough organized liberal +pressure brought to bear upon them. + +It cannot be denied that it is hot here. Yesterday we went out in +'rickshas about the middle of the day and I don't believe I ever felt +such heat. It is like the Yosemite, only considerably more intense as +well as for longer periods of time. The only consolation one gets from +noting that it isn't humid is that if it were, one couldn't live at all. +But the desert sands aren't moist either. Your mother asked the coolie +why he didn't wear a hat, and he said because it was too hot. Think of +pulling a person at the rate of five or six miles an hour in the sun of +a hundred and twenty or thirty with your head exposed. Most of the +coolies who work in the sun have nothing on their heads. It's either +survival of the fittest or inheritance of acquired characteristics. +Their adaptation to every kind of physical discomfort is certainly one +of the wonders of the world. You ought to see the places where they lie +down to go to sleep. They have it all over Napoleon. This is also the +country of itinerant domesticity. I doubt if lots of the 'ricksha men +have any places to sleep except in their carts. And a large part of the +population must buy their food of the street pedlars, who sell every +conceivable cooked thing; then there are lots of cooked food stores +besides the street men. + + + + +PEKING, July 2. + + +The rainy season has set in, and now we have floods and also coolness, +the temperature having fallen from the late nineties to the early +seventies, and life seems more worth living again. + +This is a great country for pictures, and I am most anxious for one of a +middle-aged Chinese, inclining to be fat, with a broad-brimmed straw +hat, sitting on the back of a very small and placid cream colored +donkey. He is fanning himself as the donkey moves imperceptibly along +the highway, is satisfied with himself and at ease with the world, and +everything in the world, whatever happens. This would be a good +frontispiece for a book on China--and the joke wouldn't all be on the +Chinese either. + +To-day the report is that the Chinese delegates refused to sign the +Paris treaty; the news seems too good to be true, but nobody can learn +the facts. There are also rumors that the governmental military party, +having got everything almost out of Japan that is coming to them and +finding themselves on the unpopular side, are about to forget that they +ever knew the Japanese and to come out very patriotic. This is also +unconfirmed, but I suppose the only reason they would stay bought in any +case is that there are no other bidders in the market. + + + + +PEKING, Wednesday, July 2. + + +The anxiety here is tense. The report is that the delegates did not +sign, but so vaguely worded as to leave conjectures and no confirmation. +Meanwhile the students' organizations, etc., have begun another attack +against the government by demanding the dissolution of Parliament. +Meantime there is no cabinet and the President can get no one to form +one, and half those inside seem to be also on the strike because the +other half are there. + + + + +PEKING, July 4. + + +We are going out to the Higher Normal this morning. The head of the +industrial department is going to take us. The students are erecting +three new school buildings this summer--they made the plans, designs, +details, and are supervising the erection as well as doing the routine +carpenter work. The head of the industrial department, who acted as our +guide and host, has been organizing the "national industry" activity in +connection with the students' agitation. He is now, among other things, +trying to organize apprentice schools under guild control. The idea is +to take the brightest apprentice available in each "factory"--really, of +course, just a household group--and give them two hours' schooling a day +with a view to introducing new methods and new products into the +industry. They are going to take metal working here. Then he hopes it +will spread all over China. You cannot imagine the industrial +backwardness here, not only as compared with us but with Japan. +Consequently their markets here are flooded with cheap flimsy Japan-made +stuff, which they buy because it's cheap, the line of least resistance. +But perhaps the Shantung business will be worth its cost. The cotton +guild is very anxious to co-operate and they will supply capital if the +schools can guarantee skilled workingmen, especially superintendents. +Now they sell four million worth of cotton to Japan, where it is spun, +and then buy back the same cotton in thread for fourteen million--which +they weave. This is beside the large amount of woven cotton goods they +import. + +I find in reading books that the Awakening of China has been announced a +dozen or more times by foreign travelers in the last ten years, so I +hesitate to announce it again, but I think this is the first time the +merchants and guilds have really been actively stirred to try to improve +industrial methods. And if so, it _is_ a real awakening--that and the +combination with the students. I read the translations from Japanese +every few days, and it would be very interesting to know whether their +ignorance is real or assumed. Probably some of both--it is inconceivable +that they should be as poor judges of Chinese psychology as the articles +indicate. But at the same time they have to keep up a certain tone of +belief among the people at home--namely, that the Chinese really prefer +the Japanese to all other foreigners; for they realize their dependence +upon them, and if they do not make common cause with them it is because +foreigners, chiefly Americans, instigate it all from mercenary and +political motives. As a matter of fact, I doubt if history knows of any +such complete case of national dislike and distrust; it sometimes seems +as if there hadn't been a single thing that the Japanese might have done +to alienate the Chinese that they haven't tried. The Chinese would feel +pretty sore at America for inviting them into the war and then leaving +them in the lurch, if the Japanese papers and politicians hadn't spent +all their time the last three months abusing America--then their sweet +speeches in America. It will be interesting to watch and see just what +particular string they trip on finally. + +It's getting to the end of an Imperfect Day. We saw the school as per +program and I find I made a mistake. The boys made the plans of the +three buildings and are supervising their erection, but not doing the +building. They are staying in school all summer, however--those in the +woodworking class--and have taken a contract for making all the desks +for the new buildings--the school gives them room and board (food and +its preparation costs about five dollars per month), and they +practically give their time. All the metal-working boys are staying in +Peking and working in the shops to improve and diversify the products. +Remember these are boys, eighteen to twenty, and that they are carrying +on their propaganda for their country; that the summer averages one +hundred in the shade in Peking, and you'll admit there is some stuff +here. + +This P.M. we went to a piece of the celebration. The piece we saw wasn't +so very Fourth of Julyish, but it was interesting--Chinese sleight of +hand. Their long robe is an advantage, but none the less it can't be so +very easy to move about with a very large sized punch bowl filled to the +brim with water, or with five glass bowls each with a gold fish in it, +ready to bring out. It seems that sometimes the artist turns a +somersault just as he brings out the big bowl of water, but we didn't +get that. None of the tricks were complicated, but they were the neatest +I ever saw. There is a home-made minstrel show to-night, but it rained, +and as the show (and dance later) are in the open, we aren't going, as +we intended. + +You can't imagine what it means here for China not to have signed. The +entire government has been for it--the President up to ten days before +the signing said it was necessary. It was a victory for public opinion, +and all set going by these little schoolboys and girls. Certainly the +United States ought to be ashamed when China can do a thing of this +sort. + + + + +Sunday, July 7. + + +We had quite another ride yesterday, sixty or seventy miles altogether. +The reason for the macadam road is worth telling. When Yuan Shi Kai was +planning to be Emperor his son broke his leg, and he heard the hot +springs would be good for him. So one of the officials made a road to +it. Some of the present day officials, including an ex-official who was +recently forced to resign after being beaten up, now own the springs and +hotel, so the road will continue to be taken care of. On the way we went +through the village of the White Snake and also of the One Hundred +Virtues. + +Y. M. C. A.'s and Red Crossers are still coming from Siberia on their +way home. I don't know whether they will talk freely when they get home. +It is one mess, and the stories they will tell won't improve our foreign +relations any. The Bolsheviki aren't the only ones that shoot up +villages and take the loot--so far the Americans haven't done it. + + + + +PEKING, July 8. + + +This morning the papers here reported the denial of Japan that she had +made a secret treaty with Germany. The opinion here seems to be that +they did not, but merely that preliminaries had begun with reference to +such a treaty. We heard at dinner the other day from responsible +American officials here that, after America had completed the last of +the arrangements for China to go into the war, the Japanese arranged to +get a concession from Russia for the delivery on the part of the +Japanese of China into the war on the side of the Allies. + +Well, the Japanese are still at it with the cat out of the bag. It looks +now as if they are getting ready to break up the present government in +Japan. This is interpreted to mean that that breakup will be made to +look as if it were in disapproval of the present mistakes in diplomacy +and of the price of rice; and then they can put in a worse one there and +the world will not know the difference, but will be made to think that +Japan is reforming. Speaking of constitutionality in Japan, I ceased to +worry about that as soon as I learned the older statesmen never troubled +at all about who was elected, but just let the elections go through, as +their business was so assured in other ways that the elections made no +difference anyway, and that the same principle worked equally well in +the matter of passing bills. No bill can ever come up without the +approval of the powers that be and they know how it is coming out in +spite of all discussions. No wonder change comes slowly and maybe it +will have to come all at once in the form of a revolution if it comes in +reality. It is now reported that Tsai, the Chancellor of the University +here, has said he will come back on condition that the students do not +move in future in any political matter without his consent, and I am not +able to guess whether that is a concession or a clever way of seeming to +agree with both sides at once. The announcement of Tsai's return means +that things will soon be back in normal shape and ready for another +upheaval. + +We seem to be utterly stumped by the house situation. All the members of +the Rockefeller Foundation get nice new houses built for them, and the +houses are nice new Chinese ones but free from the poor qualities of +those to be rented here. All the houses in Peking are built like our +woodsheds, directly on the ground, raised a few inches from actual +contact with the earth by a stone floor. The courts fill with water when +the rains are hard and then they are moist for days, maybe weeks, and +about two feet of wet seeps up the side of the walls. Yesterday we +called on one of our Chinese friends here, and the whole place was in +that state, but he did not seem to notice it. If he wants baths in the +house it doubles the cost he pays the water wagon, and then after all +the trouble of heating and carrying the water there is no way to dispose +of the waste, except to get a man to come and carry it away in buckets. +You would have endless occupation here just looking on to see how this +bee colony can find so many ways of making life hard for itself. A +gentleman at the Foundation has just been telling us how the coolies +steal every little piece of metal, leftovers or screwed on, that they +can get at. The privation of life sets up an entirely new set of +standards for morals. No one, it appears, can be convicted for stealing +food in China. + + + + +PEKING, July 8. + + +The Rockefeller buildings are lovely samples of what money can do. In +the midst of this worn and weak city they stand out like illuminating +monuments of the splendor of the past in proper combination with the +modern idea. They are in the finest old style of Chinese architecture; +green roofs instead of yellow, with three stories instead of one. One +wonders how long it will take China to catch up and know what they are +doing. It is said the Chinese are not at all inclined to go to their +hospital for fear of the ultra foreign methods which they do not yet +understand. On the other hand, there is no disposition on the part of +the Institution to meet them half way as the missionaries have always +done. There are a number of Chinese among the doctors and they have now +opened all the work to the women. There is a great need for women +doctors now in China, but evidently it will take a generation yet before +this work will begin to be understood and will take its natural place in +Chinese affairs. It is rather amusing that this splendid set of +buildings quite surrounds and overshadows the biggest Japanese hospital +and school that is in Peking, and they say the fact has quite humiliated +the Japanese. At present the buildings are nearing completion, but all +the old rubbishy structures of former times will have to be pulled down +before these new ones can be seen in all their beauty. Among other +things, they have built thirty-five houses also in Chinese style but +with all the modern comforts, in which to house their faculty, and in +addition to those there are a good many buildings which were taken over +from the old medical missionary College, besides, perhaps, some that +will be left from the palace of the Prince whose property they bought. +Two fine old lions are an addition from the Prince, but no foreign +family would stand the inconveniences and discomforts of the ancient +Prince, in spite of all his wives. + + + + +PEKING, July 11. + + +They have the best melons here you ever saw. Their watermelons, which +are sold on the street in such quantities as to put even the southern +negroes to shame, are just like yellow ice cream in color, but they +aren't as juicy as ours. Their musk melons aren't spicy like the ones at +home at all, but are shaped like pears, only bigger and have an acid +taste; in fact they are more like a cucumber with a little acid pep in +them, only the seeds are all in the center like our melons. When you get +macaroons and little cakes here in straight Chinese houses you realize +that neither we nor the Europeans were the first to begin eating. They +either boil or steam their bread--they eat wheat instead of rice in this +part of the country--or fry it, and I have no doubt that doughnuts were +brought home to grandma by some old seafaring captain. These things are +all the stranger because, except for sponge cake, no such things are +indigenous to Japan. So when you first get here you can hardly resist +the impression that these things have been brought to China from America +or Europe. Read a book called "Two Heroes of Cathay," by Luella Miner, +and see how our country has treated some of these people in the past, +and then you see them so fond of America and of Americans and you +realize that in some ways they are ahead of us in what used to be known +as Christianity before the war. I guess we wrote you from Hangchow about +seeing the monument and shrine to two Chinese officials who were torn in +pieces at the time of the Boxer rebellion because they changed a +telegram to the provincial officers "Kill all foreigners" to read +"Protect all foreigners." The shrine is kept up, of course, by the +Chinese, and very few foreigners in China even know of the incident. + +Their art is really childlike and all the new kinds of artists in +America who think being queer is being primitive ought to come over here +and study the Chinese in their native abodes. A great love of bright +colors and a wonderful knowledge of how to combine them, a comparatively +few patterns used over and over in all kinds of ways, and a preference +for designs that illustrate some story or idea or that appeal to their +sense of the funny--it's a good deal more childlike than what passes in +Greenwich Village for the childlike in art. + + + + +Y.M.C.A., PEKING, July 17. + + +A young Korean arrived here in the evening and he was met here on our +porch by a Chinese citizen who is also Korean. The newly arrived could +speak very little English and by means of a triangle we were able to +arrive at his story. It seems there is quite a leakage of Korean +students over the Chinese border all the time. To become a Chinese +student requires six years of residence, or else it was three; anyway +enough to postpone the idea of going to America to study till rather +late in case one wants to resort to that way of escape from Japanese +oppression. The elder and the one who has become a Chinese citizen +seemed a good deal excited; I fancy they are dramatic by nature, and +made many gestures. He urged on me the importance of our going to Korea +and he is going to bring us some pictures to look at. Well, it all set +me thinking, and so I have been reading the Korean guide book and +reflecting on the wonderful climate there and wondering if we can get a +reasonable place to stay. My first discovery of the real seriousness of +the Korean situation came across me in Japan early in March, when we had +a holiday on account of the funeral of the Korean prince, for the reason +that after the funeral and gradually in connection with it the _Japanese +Advertiser_ said it was rumored that the old Korean prince had committed +suicide. Doubtless you may know the story there, and then again you may +not. However, the facts have leaked one way and another and now it is +known that the old man did commit suicide in order to prevent the +marriage of the young prince, who has been brought up in Japan, to the +Japanese princess. By etiquette his death, taking place three days or so +before the date set for the wedding, prevented the marriage from taking +place for two years, and it is hoped by the Koreans that before two +years they could weaken the Japanese grip on Korea. We all know they +have made a beginning since last March and the suicide did something to +help that along. Now that Japan is advertising political reforms in +Korea she would probably count on that reputation again to cover her +real activities and intentions with the world at large for some time to +come. The Japanese are like the Italian Padrones or other skillful newly +rich; they have learned the western efficiency and in that they are at +least a generation ahead of their neighbors. New knowledge to take +advantage of the old experience which she has moved away from and +understands so well, to make that experience contribute all it has +towards building up and strengthening the new riches of herself. The +excuse is the one of the short and easy road to success though in the +long run it is destructive in its bearings. But a certain physical +efficiency is what Japan surely has and she has made that go a little +further than it really can go. It is just one more evidence of the +failure of the Peace Conference to comprehend the excuses that Wilson is +making for the concessions he has granted to the practical needs, as he +calls them. We are now getting the first echoes from his speeches here. + +When I reflect on the changed aspect of our minds and on the facts that +we have become accustomed to gradually since coming here I realize we +have much to explain to you which now seems a matter of course over +here. We discovered from reading an old back number somewhere that an +American traveler had been given the order of the Royal Treasure in +Japan when he was there. This order is said to be bestowed on the +Japanese alone. Before he received it he had made a public speech to the +effect that as China was down and out and needed some protector it was +natural that Japan should be that, as by all historical reasons she was +fitted to be. It appears to be true that the Militarists here who are +causing the trouble for China and who are able to hold the government on +account of foreign support have that idea so far as the "natural" goes. +The great man of China to-day is Hsu, commonly known as Little Hsu, +which is a good nickname in English, Little Shoe. He has never been in +the western hemisphere and he thinks it is better for China to give a +part of her territory to the Japanese who will help them, than to hope +for anything from the other foreigners, who only want to exploit them, +and if once China can get a stable government with the aid of the +Japanese militarists, then after that she can build herself into a +nation. Meantime Little Shoe has gained by a sad fluke in the +legislature the appointment of Military Dictator of Mongolia, and this +means he is given full power to use his army for agricultural and any +other enterprises he may choose. It means, in short, that he is absolute +dictator of all Mongolia which is retained by China and which is +bordered by Eastern Inner Mongolia which Japan controls under the +twenty-one Demands by a ninety-nine-year lease under the same absolute +conditions. These last few days since that act was consummated, nothing +is happening so far as the public knows, and according to friends the +government can go on indefinitely here with no cabinet and no +responsibility to react to the public demands. The bulk of the nation is +against this state of affairs, but with the support of foreigners and +the lack of organization there is nothing to do but stand it and see the +nation sold out to Japan and other grabbers. If you can get at +_Millard's Review_, look at it and read especially the recent act of the +Foreign Council which licensed the press--I mean they passed an Act to +do so. Fortunately the Act is not legal and will not be ratified by the +Chinese Council at Shanghai. + +To this house come the officers of the Y. M.C.A. who are on the way home +from Siberia and other places. The stories one hears here are full of +horror and always the same. Our men are too few to accomplish anything +and the whole affair is not any of our business anyway. Anyway the +Canadians have a sense of virtue in getting out of it and going home, +and well they may, say I. The Japanese have had 70,000 there at least +and they may have shipped many more than that, for they have such a +command of the railroads that there is no way of keeping track of them. +I believe the conviction is they are taking in men according to their +own judgment of the case all the time. Everybody agrees that the +Japanese soldiers are hated by all the others and have generally proved +themselves disagreeable, the Chinese being thoroughly liked. + +Meantime the dissatisfaction in Japan over rice in particular and food +in general is quite evidently becoming more and more acute. And it is +interesting to read the interviews with Count Ishii which all end up in +the same way, that the fear of bomb-throwers in the United States is +becoming a very serious alarm among all. The Anti-American agitation was +hard for us to understand while we were there, but its meaning is less +obscure now. Will it be effective? Is another world war already +preparing? It is said here that the students were very successful during +the strike in converting soldiers to their ideas. The boys at the High +Normal said they were disappointed when they were let out of jail at the +University because they had not converted more than half the soldiers. +The guards around those boys were changed every four hours. + +It is raining most of the time and it is typical of the Chinese +character that my teacher did not come because of the rain. You have to +remember he never takes a 'ricksha, though he might have looked at it +that it was better to pay a man than to lose the lesson. The mud in the +roads here is much like the old days on Long Island before the gravel +was put there, only it is softer and more slippery here, and the water +stands. + + + + +PEKING, July 17. + + +We are pleased to learn that the Japanese censor hasn't detained all our +letters, though since you call them incoherent there must be some gaps. +I'm sure we never write anything incoherent if you get it all. The +course of events has been a trifle incoherent if you don't sit up and +hold its hands all the time. Since China didn't sign the peace treaty +things have quite settled down here, however, and the lack of excitement +after living on aerated news for a couple of months is quite a letdown. +However, we live in hopes of revolution or a coup d'état or some other +little incident to liven up the dog days. + +You will be pleased to know that the University Chancellor--see letters +of early May--has finally announced that he will return to the +University. It is supposed that the Government has assented to his +conditions, among which is that the police won't interfere with the +students, but will leave discipline to the University authorities. To +resign and run away in order to be coaxed back is an art. It's too bad +Wilson never studied it. The Chinese peace delegates reported back here +that Lloyd George inquired what the twenty-one Demands were, as he had +never heard of them. However, the Chinese hold Balfour as most +responsible. In order to avoid any incoherence I will add that a Chinese +servant informed a small boy in the household of one of our friends here +that the Chinese are much more cleanly than the foreigners, for they +have people come to them to clean their ears and said cleaners go way +down in. This is an unanswerable argument. + +I hear your mother downstairs engaged on the fascinating task of trying +to make Chinese tones. I may tell you that there are only four hundred +spoken words in Chinese, all monosyllables. But each one of these is +spoken in a different tone, there being four tones in this part of the +country and increasing as you go south till in Canton there are twelve +or more. In writing there are only 214 radicals, which are then combined +and mixed up in all sorts of ways. My last name here is Du, my given +name is Wei. The Du is made up of two characters, one of which means +tree and the other earth. They are written separately. Then Wei is made +up of some more characters mixed up together, one character for woman +and one for dart, and I don't know what else. Don't ask me how they +decided that earth and tree put together made Du, for I can't tell. + + + + +PEKING, July 19. + + +I met the tutor, the English tutor, of the young Manchu Emperor, the +other day--he has three Chinese tutors besides. He teaches him Math., +Sciences, etc., besides English, which he has been doing for three +months. It is characteristic of the Chinese that they not only didn't +kill any of the royal family, but they left them one of the palaces in +the Imperial City and an income of four million dollars Mex. a year, and +within this palace the kid who is now thirteen is still Emperor, is +called that, and is waited upon by the eunuch attendants who crawl +before him on their hands and knees. At the same time he is, of course, +practically a prisoner, being allowed to see his father and his younger +brother once a month. Otherwise he has no children to play with at all. +There is some romance left in China after all if you want to let your +imagination play about this scene. The tutors don't kneel, although they +address him as Your Majesty, or whatever it is in Chinese, and they walk +in and he remains standing until the tutor is seated. This is the old +custom, which shows the reverence in which even the old Tartars must +have held education and learning. He has a Chinese garden in which to +walk, but no place to ride or for sports. The tutor is trying to get the +authorities to send him to the country, let him have playmates and +sports, and also abolish the eunuch--but he seems to think they will +more likely abolish him. The kid is quite bright, reads all the +newspapers and is much interested in politics, keeps track of the Paris +Conference, knows about the politicians in all the countries, and in +short knows a good deal more about world politics than most boys of his +age; also he is a good classical Chinese scholar. The Chinese don't seem +to worry at all about the boy's becoming the center of intrigue and +plots, but I imagine they sort of keep him in reserve with the idea that +unless the people want monarchy back he never can do anything, while if +they do let him back it will be the will of heaven. + +I am afraid I haven't sufficiently impressed it upon you that this is +the rainy season. It was impressed upon us yesterday afternoon, when the +side street upon which we live was a flowing river a foot and a half +deep. The main street on which the Y. M. C. A. building is situated was +a solid lake from housewall to housewall, though not more than six +inches or so. But the street is considerably wider than Broadway, so it +was something of a sight. Peking has for many hundred years had sewers +big enough for a man to stand up in, but they don't carry fast enough. +Probably about this time you will be reading cables from some part of +China about floods and the number of homeless. The Yellow River is known +as the curse of China, so much damage is done. We were told that when +the missionaries went down to do flood relief work a year or so ago, +they were so busy that they didn't have time to preach, and they did so +much good that when they were through they had to put up the bars to +keep the Chinese from joining the churches en masse. We haven't heard, +however, that they took the hint as to the best way of doing business. +These floods go back largely if not wholly to the policy of the Chinese +in stripping the forests. If you were to see the big coffins they are +buried in and realize the large part of China's scant forests that must +go into coffins you would favor a law that no man could die until he had +planted a tree for his coffin and one extra. + +One of our new friends here is quite an important politician, though +quite out of it just now. He told a story last night which tickled the +Chinese greatly. The Japanese minister here haunted the President and +Prime Minister while the peace negotiations were on, and every day on +the strength of what they told him cabled the Tokyo government that the +Chinese delegates were surely going to sign. Now he is in a somewhat +uncomfortable position making explanations to the home government. He +sent a representative after they didn't sign to the above-mentioned +friend to ask him whether the government had been fooling him all the +time. He replied No, but that the Japanese should remember that there +was one power greater than the government, namely, the people, and that +the delegates had obeyed the people. The Japanese will never be able to +make up their minds though whether they were being deliberately deceived +or not. The worst of the whole thing, however, is that even intelligent +Chinese are relying upon war between the United States and Japan, and +when they find out that the United States won't go to war just on +China's account, there will be some kind of a revulsion. But if the +United States had used its power when the war closed to compel +disarmament and get some kind of a just settlement, there would be no +limit to its influence over here. As it is, they infer that the moral is +that Might Controls, and that adds enormously to the moral power of +Japan as against the United States. It is even plainer here than at home +that if the United States wasn't going to see its "ideals" through, it +shouldn't have professed any, but if it did profess them it ought to +have made good on 'em even if we had to fight the whole world. However, +our financial pressure, and the threat of withholding food and raw +materials would have enabled Wilson to put anything over. + +Another little incident is connected with the Chancellor of the +University. Although he is not a politician at all, the Militarist party +holds him responsible for their recent trials and the student outbreaks. +So, although it announced that the Chancellor is coming back, the Anfu +Club, the parliamentary organization of the militarists, is still trying +to keep him out. The other night they gave a banquet to some University +students and bribed them to start something. At the end they gave each +one dollar extra for 'ricksha hire the next day, so there would be no +excuse for not going to the meeting at the University. Fifteen turned +up, but the spies on the other side heard something was going on and +they rang the bell, collected about a hundred and locked the bribees in. +Then they kept them in till they confessed the whole story (and put +their names to a written confession) and turned over their resolutions +and mimeographed papers which had been prepared for them in which they +said they were really the majority of the students and did not want the +Chancellor back, and that a noisy minority had imposed on the public, +etc. The next day the Anfu papers told about an awful riot at the +University, and how a certain person had instigated and led it, although +he hadn't been at the University at all that day. + + + + +PEKING, July 24. + + +We expect to go to Manchuria, probably in September, and in October to +Shansi, which is quite celebrated now because they have a civil governor +who properly devotes himself to his job, and they are said to have sixty +per cent or more of the children in school and to be prepared for +compulsory education in 1920. It is the ease with which the Chinese do +these things without any foreign assistance which makes you feel so +hopeful for China on the one hand, and so disgusted on the other that +they put up so patiently with inefficiency and graft most of the time. +There seems to be a general impression that the present situation cannot +continue indefinitely, but must take a turn one way or another. The +student agitation has died down as an active political thing but +continues intellectually. In Tientsin, for example, they publish several +daily newspapers which sell for a copper apiece. A number of students +have been arrested in Shantung lately by the Japanese, so I suppose the +students are actively busy there. I fancy that when vacation began there +was quite an exodus in that direction. + +I am told that X----, our Japanese friend, is much disgusted with the +Chinese about the Shantung business--that Japan has promised to return +Shantung, etc., and that Japan can't do it until China gets a stable +government to take care of things, because their present governments are +so weak that China would simply give away her territory to some other +power, and that the Chinese instead of attacking the Japanese ought to +mind their own business and set their own house in order. There is +enough truth in this so that it isn't surprising that so intelligent and +liberal a person as X---- is taken in by it. But what such Japanese as +he cannot realize, because the truth is never told to them, is how +responsible the Japanese government is for fostering a weak and +unrepresentative government here, and what a temptation to it a weak and +divided China will continue to be, for it will serve indefinitely as an +excuse for postponing the return of Shantung--as well as for interfering +elsewhere. Anyone who knows the least thing about not only general +disturbances in China but special causes of friction between China and +Japan, can foresee that there will continue to be a series of plausible +excuses for postponing the return promised--and anyway, as a matter of +fact, what she has actually promised to return compared with the rights +she would keep in her possession amount to little or nothing. Just this +last week there was a clash in Manchuria and fifteen or twenty Japanese +soldiers are reported killed by Chinese--there will always be incidents +of that kind which will have to be settled first. If the other countries +would only surrender their special concessions to the keeping of an +international guarantee, they could force the hand of Japan, but I can't +see Great Britain giving up Hong Kong. On the whole, however, Great +Britain, next to us, and barring the opium business, has been the most +decent of all the great powers in dealing with China. I started out with +a prejudice to the contrary, and have been surprised to learn how little +grabbing England has actually done here. Of course, India is the only +thing she really cares about and her whole policy here is controlled by +that consideration, with such incidental trade advantages as she can +pick up. + + + + +(Later) July 27. + + +I think I wrote a while back about a little kid five years old or so who +walked up the middle aisle at one of my lectures and stood for about +fifteen minutes quite close to me, gazing at me most seriously and also +wholly unembarrassed. Night before last we went to a Chinese restaurant +for dinner, under the guardianship of a friend here. A little boy came +into our coop and began most earnestly addressing me in Chinese. Out +friend found out that he was asking me if I knew his third uncle. He was +the kid of the lecture who had recognized me as the lecturer, and whose +third uncle is now studying at Columbia. If you meet Mr. T---- +congratulate him for me on his third nephew. The boy made us several +calls during the evening, all equally serious and unconstrained. At one +he asked me for my card, which he carefully wrapped up in ceremonial +paper. The restaurant is near a lotus pond and they are now in their +fullest bloom. I won't describe them beyond saying that the lotus is the +lotus and advising you to come out next summer and see them. + + + + +PEKING, August 4. + + +I went to Tientsin to an educational conference for two days last week. +It was called by the Commissioner of this Province for all the +principals of the higher schools to discuss the questions connected with +the opening of the schools in the fall. Most of the heads of schools are +very conservative and were much opposed to the students' strikes, and +also to the students' participation in politics. They are very nervous +and timorous about the opening of the schools, for they think that the +students after engaging in politics all summer won't lend themselves +readily to school discipline--their high schools, etc., are all boarding +schools--and will want to run the schools after having run the +government for several months. The liberal minority, while they want the +students to settle down to school work, think that the students' +experiences will have been of great educational value and that they will +come back with a new social viewpoint, and the teaching ought to be +changed--and also the methods of school discipline--to meet the new +situation. + +I had a wonderful Chinese lunch at a private high school one day there. +The school was started about fifteen years ago in a private house with +six pupils; now they have twenty acres of land, eleven hundred pupils, +and are putting up a first college building to open a freshman class of +a hundred this fall--it's of high school grade now, all Chinese support +and management, and non-missionary or Christian, although the principal +is an active Christian and thinks Christ's teachings the only salvation +for China. The chief patron is a non-English speaking, non-Christian +scholar of the old type--but with modern ideas. The principal said that +when three of them two years ago went around the world on an educational +trip, this old scholar among them, the United States Government gave +them a special secret service detective from New York to San Francisco, +and this man was so impressed with the old Chinese gentleman that he +said: "What kind of education can produce such a man as that, the finest +gentleman I ever saw. You western educated gentlemen are spoiled in +comparison with him." They certainly have the world beat in courtesy of +manners--as much politeness as the Japanese but with much less manner, +so it seems more natural. However, this type is not very common. I asked +the principal what the effect of the missionary teaching was on the +Chinese passivity and non-resistance. He said it differed very much as +between Americans and English and among Americans between the older and +the younger lot. The latter, especially the Y. M. C. A., have given up +the non-interventionalist point of view and take the ground that +Christianity ought to change social conditions. The Y. M. C. A. is, he +says, a group of social workers rather than of missionaries in the +old-fashioned sense--all of which is quite encouraging. Perhaps the +Chinese will be the ones to rejuvenate Christianity by dropping its rot, +wet and dry, and changing it into a social religion. The principal is a +Teachers College man and one of the most influential educators in China. +He speaks largely in picturesque metaphor, and I'm sorry I can't +remember what he said. Among other things, in speaking of the energy of +the Japanese and the inertia of the Chinese, he said the former were +mercury, affected by every change about them, and the latter cotton wool +that the heat didn't warm and cold didn't freeze. He confirmed my +growing idea, however, that the conservatism of the Chinese was much +more intellectual and deliberate, and less mere routine clinging to +custom, than I used to suppose. Consequently, when their ideas do +change, the people will change more thoroughly, more all the way +through, than the Japanese. + +It seems that the present acting Minister of Education was allowed to +take office under three conditions--that he should dissolve the +University, prevent the Chancellor from returning, and dismiss all the +present heads of the higher schools here. He hasn't been able, of +course, to accomplish one, and the Anfu Club is correspondingly sore. He +is said to be a slick politician, and when he has been at dinner with +our liberal friends he tells them how even he is calumniated--people say +that he is a member of the Anfu Club. + +I struck another side of China on my way home from Tientsin. I was +introduced to an ex-Minister of Finance as my traveling companion. He is +a Ph.D. in higher math. from America, and is a most intelligent man. But +his theme of conversation was the need of a scientific investigation of +spirits and spirit possession and divination, etc., in order to decide +scientifically the existence of the soul and an overruling mind. +Incidentally he told a fine lot of Chinese ghost stories. Aside from the +coloring of the tales I don't know that there was anything especially +Chinese about them. He certainly is much more intelligent about it than +some of our American spiritualists. But the ghosts were certainly +Chinese all right--spirit possession mostly. I suppose you know that the +walls that stand in front of the better-to-do Chinese houses are there +to keep spirits out--the spirits can't turn a corner, so when the wall +is squarely in front of the location of the front door the house is +safe. Otherwise they come in and take possession of somebody--if they +aren't comfortable as they are. It seems there is quite a group of +ex-politicians in Tientsin who are much interested in psychical +research. Considering that China is the aboriginal home of ghosts, I +can't see why the western investigators don't start their research here. +These educated Chinese aren't credulous, so there is nothing crude about +their ghost stories. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Typographical errors in English were corrected. Spellings of +non-English words were left as found. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by +John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + +***** This file should be named 31043-8.txt or 31043-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/0/4/31043/ + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Letters from China and Japan + +Author: John Dewey + Alice Chipman Dewey + +Editor: Evelyn Dewey + +Release Date: January 22, 2010 [EBook #31043] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + <div id="title_page"><a class="pagenum disguise" id="pageiii" title="iii"> </a> + <h1><span class="smaller">LETTERS FROM</span><br /> + CHINA AND JAPAN</h1> + + <p class="author"><span class="byword">BY</span><br /> + JOHN DEWEY, Ph.D., LL.D.<br /> + <span class="identifier">Professor of Philosophy in Columbia University</span></p> + + <p class="author"><span class="byword">AND</span><br /> + ALICE CHIPMAN DEWEY</p> + + <p class="editor"><span class="byword">Edited by</span><br /> + EVELYN DEWEY</p> + + <p class="publish_data">NEW YORK<br /> + E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY<br /> + <span class="location">681 Fifth Avenue</span></p> + </div> + <div id="copyright_page"><a class="pagenum disguise" id="pageiv" title="iv"> </a> + <p class="copyright_date">Copyright, 1920,<br /> + By E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY</p> + <p class="rights_statement">All Rights Reserved</p> + <p class="print_statement">Printed in the United States of America</p> + </div> + <div id="preface"><a class="pagenum disguise" id="pagev" title="v"> </a> + <h2>PREFACE</h2> + + <p>John Dewey, Professor of Philosophy in + Columbia University, and his wife, Alice C. + Dewey, who wrote the letters reproduced in + this book, left the United States early in + 1919 for a trip to Japan. The trip was + eagerly embarked on, as they had desired + for many years to see at least something of + the Eastern Hemisphere. The journey was + to be solely for pleasure, but just before + their departure from San Francisco, Professor + Dewey was invited, by cable, to lecture + at the Imperial University at Tokyo, + and later at a number of other points in the + Japanese Empire. They traveled and + visited in Japan for some three to four + months and in May, after a most happy experience, + made doubly so by the unexpected + courtesies extended them, they decided to + go on to China, at least for a few weeks, + before returning to the United States.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="pagevi" title="vi"> </a>The fascination of the struggle going on + in China for a unified and independent + democracy caused them to alter their plan + to return to the United States in the summer + of 1919. Professor Dewey applied to + Columbia University for a year’s leave of + absence, which was granted, and with Mrs. + Dewey, is still in China. Both are lecturing + and conferring, endeavoring to take some + of the story of a Western Democracy to an + Ancient Empire, and in turn are enjoying + an experience, which, as the letters indicate, + they value as a great enrichment of their + own lives. The letters were written to their + children in America, without thought of + their ever appearing in print.</p> + + <p class="signature">Evelyn Dewey.</p> + + <p><em class="location">New York</em>,<br /> + January 5th, 1920.</p> + </div> + + <!-- <a class="pagenum disguise" id="pagevii" title="vii"> </a>LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN //Omitted for clarity --> + <!-- <a class="pagenum disguise" id="pageviii" title="viii"> </a>[Blank Page] --> + + <p class="internal_title"><a class="pagenum disguise" id="page1" title="1"> </a>LETTERS<br /> + FROM CHINA AND JAPAN</p> + + <h2><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Monday, February.</h2> + + <p>Well, if you want to see one mammoth, + muddy masquerade just see Tokyo to-day. + I am so amused all the time that if I were + to do just as I feel, I should sit down or + stand up and call out, as it were, from + the housetops to every one in the world to + come and see the show. If it were not for + the cut of them I should think that all the + cast-off clothing had been misdirected and + had gone to Japan instead of Belgium. + But they are mostly as queer in cut as they + are in material. Imagine rummaging your + attic for the colors and patterns of past + <a class="pagenum" id="page2" title="2"> </a>days and then gathering up kimonos of all + the different colors and patterns and sizes + and with it all a lot of men’s hats that are + like nothing you ever saw, and very muddy + streets, and there you have it. The ’ricksha + men have their legs fitted with tight + trousers and puttees to end them, and they + are graceful. They run all day, through + the mud and snow and wet in these things + made of cotton cloth that are neither stockings + nor shoes but both, and they stand + about or sit on steps and wait, and yet they + get through the day alive. I am distracted + between the desire to ride in the baby cart + and the fear of the language, mixed with + the greater fear of the pain of being drawn + by a fellow-being. They are a lithe set of + little men and look as if they had steel + springs to make them go when you look at + their course. Still I have been only in + autos, of which there are not many here. I + get tired with the excitement of the constant + amusement. This morning a man + <a class="pagenum" id="page3" title="3"> </a>came out of a curio shop. Bow. “Exguse + me, madame, is this not Mrs. Daway? + I knew you because I saw your picture in + the paper. Will you not come in and look + at our many curios? I shall have the + pleasure of bringing them to your hotel. + What is the number of your room, + madame?†Bow. “No, please do not bring + them to my room, for I am always out. I + will come in and see them sometime.†+ “Thank you, madame, please do so, + madame, we have many fine curios.†Bow. + “Good-morning, madame.â€</p> + + <p>The looks of the streets are like the + clothes, just left over from the past ages. + Of course Tokyo is the modern city of + Japan, and we shall watch out for the ancient + ones when it comes their turn. I wish + I could give you an idea of the looks of + the poor. The children up to the age of + about thirteen appear never to wipe their + noses. Combine this effect (more effect + than in Italy) with several kimonos, one on + <a class="pagenum" id="page4" title="4"> </a>top of the other, made of cotton and wool + of bright colors and flowered, with a queer + brown checked one on top; this wadded and + much too big, therefore hitched up round + the waist. Swung in this outside one a baby + is carried on the back, the little baby head + with black bangs or still fuzzy scalp sticking + out, nose never yet touched by a handkerchief, + wearer of the baby with a nose + in the same condition if at a tender age—I + scream inside of me as I go about, + and it is more exciting than any play ever. + We are as much curiosities to them as they + are to us, though we live where the most + foreigners go. Now on top of it all we can + no more make a car driver understand + where we want to go than if we were + monkeys. We can’t find any names on the + streets, we can’t read a sign except the few + that are in English; the streets wind in any + and every direction; they are long and short + and circular, while a big canal circles + through the part of the city where we are + <a class="pagenum" id="page5" title="5"> </a>and we seem to cross it every few minutes; + every time we cross it we think we are going + in the same direction as the last time we + crossed it. About this stage of our search + your father goes up to a young fellow with + an ulster on, and capes, and a felt hat that + is like a fedora except for a few inches taken + out of its height, and says to him, Tei-ko-ku + Hotel, which would mean the Imperial + Hotel if he had pronounced it right, and the + boy turns around and says, “Do you want + ze Imperialee Hoter?†And we say, “Yes†+ (you bet), and the fellow says, “Eet is ze + beeg building down zere,†so we wade + along some more with all the clog walkers + looking at our feet till we come to this old + barn of a place where we are paying as + much as at a Fifth Avenue hotel, and get + clear soup for dinner. Just like any one + of those old-fashioned French places where + they measure out with care all they give you, + and where the head is a most distinguished + and conspicuous jack-in-the-box who jacks + <a class="pagenum" id="page6" title="6"> </a>at you all the time, bows every time you + go down the hall and all and all and all. + It is all so screamingly funny. The shops + are nearly as big as our bedrooms at home + with enough space to step in and leave your + shoes before you mount the takenomo and + walk on the mats. We could not go into + any shop, except the foreign book stores, + because we were too dirty and had no time + to unlace our shoes even if we wanted to + wear out our silk stockings. We shall have + some nice striped socks before we begin to + do shopping. I am possessed with the notion + of trying the clogs.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page7" title="7"> </a>Tuesday, February 11 (<em class="location">Tokyo</em>).</h2> + + <p>To-day is a holiday, so we cannot go to the + bank, but we can go to a meeting where + they will discuss universal franchise and democratization + generally. The Emperor is + said to be indisposed, so he will not come + to the celebration. His illnesses, like everything + else about him, are arranged by the + ministers and mistresses, as near as we can + make out.</p> + + <p>We are having so many interesting experiences + and impressions that it is already + difficult to catch up in writing them down. + Yesterday morning we went to walk and + in the afternoon we were taken out in a + car so that we have got over the first impression + of the surface. We saw the university + and the park where the tombs of the + shoguns are, and those tombs are wonderful, + just to look at from the car. About + <a class="pagenum" id="page8" title="8"> </a>to-morrow we may be able to go to the + museum. The rows of stone lanterns are + impressive beyond anything I had imagined; + hundreds of them which must have given to + the nights they illuminated a wonderfully + weird spectral look.</p> + + <p>It is not fully true that the Japanese are + not interested in their history. At least the + educated are, as in any other country. A + friend told us about the revival of interest + in the tea ceremony. He is going to arrange + for us to go to one somewhere, he did + not say where, but it will be accompanied + by a grand dinner and will express the + magnificence of the new rich as well as the + taste of old Japan, to judge from the impressions + he gave us. He told us of an old + Chinese cup for the tea ceremony that a + certain millionaire has recently paid 160,000 + yen for. That means $80,000. He says the + collectors have various sets, and each set + will often represent a million dollars. This + particular bowl is of black porcelain with + <a class="pagenum" id="page9" title="9"> </a>decorations of bright color. He told us also + of a tea which is now produced in China by + grafting the tea branches on to lemon trees. + He has some of this tea which was given + him by the Chinese ambassador and so I + hope we may get a taste of it.</p> + + <p>Apropos of this hotel you will be interested + to know the manager who runs the + house has just come home from the Waldorf + and from London where he has been + learning how to do—people. The exchange + rates they offered Papa seem to be an + index of their line of development and they + are going to build more. This is <em>the</em> one + first-class hotel in Japan. At present they + have only about sixty rooms or a little more.</p> + + <p>In general, things are coming along + promisingly. I should be through lecturing + by the first of April here, which is <em>just</em> the + time to begin traveling. It turns out a good + scheme to come in winter, for the weather, + while not cheerful, is far from really cold, + though it is not easy to see just how the + <a class="pagenum" id="page10" title="10"> </a>palms thrive in the snow. Japan seems to + have developed a peculiar type of semi-tropical + vegetation which endures freezing + and winter. I can foresee that we are going + to be busy enough, and for the next few + weeks your mother is going to have more + time for miscellaneous sightseeing than I. + It is indescribably fascinating; in substance, + of course, like the books and pictures, but + nothing really prepares you for the fact that + it is not only real in quality but on such a + vast scale—-not just specimens here and + there.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page11" title="11"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Thursday, February 13.</h2> + + <p>We have done our first independent shopping + to-day. I can’t get over my astonishment + at the amount and quality of English + spoken here; it is about as easy shopping in + this store, the big department store, as it is + at home—much easier as respects attention + and comfort. They give us little wrappers + or feet gloves to put over our shoes. Think + of what an improvement that would be in + muddy weather in Chicago.</p> + + <p>This afternoon is sort of a lull after the + storm of sociability and hospitality which + reached its temporary height yesterday. + Let me give the diary. Before we had + finished breakfast—and we have eaten every + morning at eight until to-day—people began + to call. Then two gentlemen took us + to the University in their car and we called + on the President again. He is a gentleman + <a class="pagenum" id="page12" title="12"> </a>of the old school, Confucianist I suppose, + and your mother was much impressed at + being taken in, instead of staying in the car, + but I think he was much more pleased and + complimented by her call than by mine. + Then we were taken to the department + store to which I have already alluded. + Many people do all their buying there, because + there are fixed prices with a reward + for a discovery of any place where the + same goods are sold cheaper, and absolute + honesty as to quality. But they also + said that was the easy way to visit Japan + and learn about the clothes, ornaments, + toys, etc., and also to see the people, as + the Japanese from all over the country + come there to see the sights. There were + a group of country people in; they are + called red blankets, not greenhorns, because + they wear in winter a red bed blanket + gathered with a string, instead of an overcoat. + Then at night it comes in handy.</p> + + <p>The stores are already displaying the + <a class="pagenum" id="page13" title="13"> </a>things for the girls’ festival though it + doesn’t come till early March—this is the + peach fête, and the display of festive dolls—king + and queen, servants, ladies of the + court in their old costumes, is very interesting + and artistic. They have certainly put + the doll to uses which we haven’t approached. + Then we had lunch at the store, + a regular Japanese lunch, which tasted very + good, and I ate mine with chop sticks. Then + they brought us back to the hotel, and at + two a friend came and took me to call on + Baron Shibusawa—I suppose even benighted + foreigners like yourself will know + who he is, but you may not know that he is + 83, that he has a skin like a baby’s, and + shows all the signs of the most acute mental + vigor, or that for the last two or three years + he has given up all business and devoted + himself to philanthropic and humanitarian + activities. He does evidently what not + many American millionaires do; he takes an + intellectual and moral interest, and doesn’t + <a class="pagenum" id="page14" title="14"> </a>merely give money. He explained for + about half an hour or more his theory of + life (he is purely a Confucianist and not a + religionist of any kind), and what he was + trying to do, especially that it isn’t merely + relief. He is desirous to preserve the old + Confucian standards only adapted to present + economic conditions; it is essentially a + morality of feudal economic relationships, + as perhaps you know, and he thinks the + modern factory employers can be brought + to take the old paternal attitude to the employees + and thus forestall the class struggle + here. The radicals laugh at the notion here + much as they would in the United States, + but for my part if he can get in a swipe + at the Marxian theory of social evolution + and bring about another type still of social + evolution, I don’t see why he should not + have a run for his money. According to + all reports there is very little labor and + capital problem here yet, though the big fortunes + made by the war and the increased + <a class="pagenum" id="page15" title="15"> </a>prosperity of the workingmen have begun + to make a change, it is said. Up to the + present labor unions have not been permitted, + but the government has announced that + while they are not encouraged they will not + be any longer forbidden.</p> + + <p>But I must get back to the story. Another + friend had asked us to go to the + theater with him, the Imperial Theater, + which has European seats and is a fine and + large building, as fine as in any capital and + not overdecorated like a New York one. + The theater began at four, and, with about + half an hour intermission for dinner, continued + till ten at night; the regular Japanese + theaters begin at eleven in the morning and + continue till ten at night and you have your + food brought to you; also they have no seats + and you sit on your legs. None of the + plays was strictly of the old historic type, + but the most interesting one by far was + adapted from a classic—it centers to some + extent about a faithful horse, and the + <a class="pagenum" id="page16" title="16"> </a>people are country farmers of several centuries + ago. The least interesting was a kind + of problem play—mostly philosophical discourse + of the modern type—the right to expression + of self and an artistic career, + aphorisms having no dramatic appeal to + even the Japanese audience. These people + certainly have an alert intelligence—almost + as specialized as the Parisian, for the audience + was distinctly of the people, and no + American audience could be got to pay the + close attention it gave to performances + where the merits, so far as they are not + strictly artistic, in the technique of acting + which is very highly developed, depend + upon catching the play of moral emotions + rather than upon anything very theatrical. + However, the classic drama which is based + upon old stories and traditions is more + dramatic and melodramatic. The Japanese + also say the old theater has much better + actors than the semi-Europeanized one + which is, I suppose, supported by the government. + <a class="pagenum" id="page17" title="17"> </a>In the Imperial, the orchestra + seats are one dollar and a half; they are + more—on the floor at that—in the all-day + theaters. Even in this one they have not + introduced applause, though there was + slight handclapping once or twice when the + curtain went down. The Japanese have always + had the revolving theater as a means + of scene shifting; it works like a railway + turntable apparently. Well, that ended the + day yesterday. Except we had invited two + gentlemen to dinner, and when we told our + friends about it, they said, “Oh, just telephone + them to come some other day,†which + appears to be good Japanese etiquette, as + it is also to make calls at any time of the + day, so we did. But unfortunately they + had to telephone to-day that they couldn’t + come to-night.</p> + + <p>To-day has been comparatively calm; we + have only had four Japanese callers and + two American ones. Of the two Japanese, + one is a woman who is the warden of the + <a class="pagenum" id="page18" title="18"> </a>Girls’ University, and the other is a teacher + in it, a young woman of a wealthy and aristocratic + family who has become too modern, + I judge, for her family. I hope all you + children will make a bow to every Japanese + you meet and ask him what you can do to + be of service to him. I shall have to spend + the rest of my life trying to make up for + some of the kindnesses and courtesies which + so abound here.</p> + + <p>I am afraid much of this is more interesting + to me to write about than it is to you + to read, to say nothing of being more interesting + to go through than to read about. + But you can then save the letter for us to + re-read when we get old and return from + our Odysseying, and wish to recover the + memories of the days when people were so + kind that they created in us the illusion of + being somebody, and gave us the combined + enjoyments of home and being in a strange + and semi-magic country; semi-magic for us. + For the mass of the people, one can only + <a class="pagenum" id="page19" title="19"> </a>wonder at their cheerfulness and realize + what a really old and overcrowded country + is and how Buddhism and stoic fatalistic + cheerfulness develop. Don’t ever fool yourself + into thinking of Japan as a new country; + I don’t any longer believe the people + who tell you that you have to go to China + and India to see antiquity. Superficially + it may be so, but not fundamentally. Any + country is old where birth and death are + like the coming and dropping of leaves on + a tree, and where the individual is of as + much importance as the leaf. Old world + and New world are not mere relatives; they + are as near absolutes as anything.</p> + + <p>We heard a whistle making its cry outside + and Mamma thought it was the bank messenger, + so I rang the bell for the boy to + bring him in—but alas, it was much less + romantic; it was the call of the macaroni + peddler.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page20" title="20"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, February.</h2> + + <p>Here we are, one week after landing, on + a hill in a beautiful garden of trees on + which the buds are already swelling. The + plums will soon be in bloom, and in March + the camellias, which grow to fairly large + trees. In the distance we see the wonderful + Fuji, nearby the other hills of this district, + and the further plains of the city. Just + at the foot of our hill is a canal, along + which is an alley of cherry trees formerly + famous, but largely destroyed by a storm a + few years ago.</p> + + <p>We have a wonderful apartment to ourselves, + mostly all windows, which in this + house are glass. A very large bedroom, a + small dressing room, and a study where I + now sit with the sun coming in the windows + which are all its sides. We need this sun, + though the hibashi, or boxes of charcoal, + <a class="pagenum" id="page21" title="21"> </a>do wonders in warming up your feet and + drying hair, as I am now doing. We are + surrounded by all the books on Japan that + modern learning has produced, so we have + never a waiting moment. The house is very + large, with one house after another covering + the hilltop and connected by the galleries + that are cut off the sides of each room in + succession. I shall try to get a photo. At + the extreme end of the house is <span class="keep_together">Mr. X——’s</span> + library of several rooms, and at the limit of + that the tea room for the tea ceremonies. + Our host is not one of the new rich who + buy sets at a million dollars for performing + this ceremony. He laughs at that. But + there is a gold lacquer table which is like + transfixed sunshine, and there are other + pieces of old furniture, which are priceless + now, and which have come down in his + family. You would be amused to see us at + breakfast, which O-Tei, the maid assigned + to us, serves in our sun parlor. First we + have fruit. Two little lacquer tables to + <a class="pagenum" id="page22" title="22"> </a>move wherever we want to sit. The dishes + and service are in our fashion in this house. + Nice old blue Canton plates and other things + Japanese. After fruit she makes toast over + the charcoal in the hibashi, two little iron + sticks stuck in the bread to hold it. On + these prongs she hands us the toast. Meantime + she teaches us Japanese and we teach + her English which she already knows, and + she giggles every time we speak. Well, + we put our toast down on the plate and + she disappears. The coffee pot is on a side + table and we desperately look for cups for + ourselves, though with some fear of disturbing + the etiquette. No cups, she forgot them. + After a while she comes up again with the + cups and we get coffee, then she goes down + again and brings scrambled eggs on the nice + old blue plates. Then she giggles a little + more and talks in that soft voice that is + like nothing else we ever heard, as she + hands us a nice hot piece of toast on an + iron spike; she is much pleased and giggles + <a class="pagenum" id="page23" title="23"> </a>because I tell her the toast is not harmed by + dropping it on the clean floor, and she walks + off into the big bedroom to bring the coffee + from the gas heater. It is all like a pretty + play unmarred by any remote ideas about + efficiency, and time and labor-saving devices. + Then two maids make our beds; then + they dust the floor, one holding up the sofa + on edge while the other whisks underneath + it, and they smile and bow and take an interest + in every move we make as if we were + their dearest friends.</p> + + <p>Enter now the housekeeper who, with + many bows, announces <span title="very">v-e-r-y</span> <span title="slowly">s-l-o-w-l-y</span> + that she would like to accompany me to go + about the city and to explain things to me, + as I would thus teach her English. I asked + if she were going to church and she said she + wasn’t a Christian. Think what a funny + sound that has. She is the secretary of <span class="keep_together">Mr. X——</span> + and a student in the new Christian + college of which he is the President. She + comes in now to wait on us at breakfast and + <a class="pagenum" id="page24" title="24"> </a>she stays and repeats English after us. She + knows a lot of English, but it is so literary + that it is quite amusing to turn her into the + ways of ordinary talk. To get her to open + her mouth and break the polite Japanese + whisper, in which the Japanese women + speak, is what I work most on. Yesterday + we visited the Women’s University which is + within walking distance of this house. The + President, Mr. Naruse, is dying of cancer. + He is in bed but is able to talk quite + naturally. He has made a farewell address + to his students, has said good-bye to his + faculty in a speech, and has named the dean, + who is acting in his place now, as his successor. + At this University they teach + flower arrangement, long sword, and Japanese + etiquette, and the chief warden is a + fine woman. She says I may come in as + much as I like to see those different things.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we had callers again, + among them two women. Women are + rare. One, a <span class="keep_together">Dr. R——,</span> is an osteopath who + <a class="pagenum" id="page25" title="25"> </a>has practiced here for fifteen years and is + an old friend of our host’s. The second, + <span class="keep_together">Miss T——,</span> has just returned from seven + years in our country. I heard much of her at + Stanford and brought letters to her. She + has a chair in the Women’s University. It + is a chair of Sociology, but she says the + authorities are afraid the time has not yet + come for her to start on sociology, so she + will begin with the teaching of English and + work into sociology by the process of ingratiating + it into her classes. She is an interesting + personality. She was sent to me + to say I might be lonely because your + father was away so she was to take me, + with any other friends I wanted, to the + theater. As we had already been to the + Imperial Theater and sat in the Baron’s box + it was finally arranged to go to the Kabuki, + where we sit on the floor and see real old + Japanese acting, which I am very anxious + to do. I understand it begins at 11 in the + morning and lasts until ten at night.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page26" title="26"> </a>February 22.</h2> + + <p>Yesterday we went to the theater, beginning + at one and ending about nine; tea + is constantly in the box, and little meals—and + a big one—between the acts. We liked + the old Japanese theater better than the + more or less modernized one. Baron Shibusawa + presented us with a box—or rather + two of them—and his niece and another + relative and the two young people from the + house went. I won’t try to describe the + dramas, except to say that the way to study + Japanese history and tradition would be to + go to the theater with some one to interpret, + and that while the theater is as plain as a + medieval European one, the dresses are even + more elaborate and costly. The stage is a + beautiful spectacle when there are forty + old Samurai on it, as the garments are genuine, + not tinsel. Mamma went more than + <a class="pagenum" id="page27" title="27"> </a>I, because I had to leave at half-past + four to go to the Concordia Society—in + fact, I hadn’t expected to go at all at first, + as the Baron said that he sent the offer of + the box because he feared Mamma might + be lonely when I was away! There were + about twenty-five Japanese and Americans + at the meeting and after I had spoken for + half an hour we had dinner in an adjoining + restaurant, and then sat around and + visited for an hour or so.</p> + + <p>The great event of the week, aside from + the theater yesterday, was visiting the + Women’s University—you mightn’t think + that a great treat, but you don’t know what + we saw. We started early to walk, since it + isn’t far and we had been shown the way + once, but we were rubbering so busily at the + shops that we failed to notice where we + were till we got to the end of things and + then had to turn around and walk back, so + we got there late. The forenoon we spent + in the elementary classes and kindergarten, + <a class="pagenum" id="page28" title="28"> </a>which are their practice school. Those very + bright kimonos for children you see are real—all + the children wear them, as bright as + can be, generally reds, and then some. So + the rooms where the little children were are + like gardens of flowers with bright birds in + them—gay as can be. The work was all + interesting, but the colored crayon drawings + particularly. They have a great deal + of freedom there, and instead of the children + imitating and showing no individuality—which + seems to be the proper thing to + say—I never saw so much variety and so + little similarity in drawings and other hand + work, to say nothing of its quality being + much better than the average of ours. The + children were under no visible discipline, + but were good as well as happy; they paid + no attention to visitors, which I think is + ultramodern, as I expected to see them all + rise and bow. If you will think of doing + all the regular school work—including in + this school a good deal of hand work, drawing, + <a class="pagenum" id="page29" title="29"> </a>etc.—and then learning by the end of + the sixth grade a thousand or more Chinese + characters, to make as well as to read, you + will have some idea of how industrious the + kids have to be, and of course they have to + learn Japanese characters, too. Then we + had a luncheon, ten of us altogether, cooked + and served by the girls in the Domestic Department; + some luncheon!—and garnished + in a way to beat the Ritz—European food + and service. Then the real show began. + First we had flower arrangement, ancient + and modern styles, then examples of the + ancient etiquette in serving tea and cakes to + guests, and then of inferiors calling on + superiors; then Koto playing—a thirteen-stringed + harp that lies on the floor—first two + girls and the teacher, and then a solo by + the teacher. He is blind and said to be the + best player in Japan; he gave “Cotton + Bleaching in the Brook,†and said he rarely + played it, only once a year. Well, you + could hear the water ripple and fall, and hit + <a class="pagenum" id="page30" title="30"> </a>the stones, and the women singing and beating + the cotton. I could hear it better than + I can hear spring in our music, so I + think perhaps my ears are made to fit the + Japanese scale, or lack of it. Then we were + taken into the tea house and shown the tea + ceremony, being served with tea. Mamma + sat tatami, on her heels, but I basely took + a chair. Then we went to the gymnasium + and saw the old Samurai women’s sword + and spear exercises, etc. The teacher was + an old woman of seventy-five and as lithe + and nimble as a cat—more graceful than + any of the girls. I have an enormous respect + now for the old etiquette and ceremonies + regarded as physical culture. Every + movement has to be made perfectly, and it + cannot be done without conscious control. + The modernized gym exercises by the children + were simply pitiful compared with all + these ceremonies. Then we were taken to + the dormitories, which are in a garden, + simple wooden Japanese buildings, like + <a class="pagenum" id="page31" title="31"> </a>barns our girls would think, but everything + so clean you could eat on the floor anywhere, + with the south side all glass and sun, + and the girls sitting on the floor to study on + a table about a foot and a half high; no beds + or chairs to litter up the rooms. Then + after we were taken over some of the other + rooms, we went back to the dining-room + and had a most exquisite Japanese vegetarian + Buddhist lunch served—just a + sample, all on a little plate, but including + the sweets for dessert, five or six things all + quite different and elegantly cooked. Also + three kinds of tea.</p> + + <p>Politeness is so universal here that when + we get back we shall either be so civil that + you won’t know us, or else we shall be so + irritated that nobody is sufficiently civil that + you won’t know us either. <span class="keep_together">Mr. X——</span> took me + in his car and brought me back. When we + got to the hall there were five maids bowing + and smiling to get our slippers and hang + up our coats and hats. Just going in or + <a class="pagenum" id="page32" title="32"> </a>out is like going to a picnic; I think the + maids enjoy this change in their regular + work, for they really smile, as if they were + having the time of their lives. If it is perfunctory + and put on, they have me fooled.</p> + + <p>Well, I’ll spare you all any philosophical + reflections this trip. Besides, I’ve been too + busy having a good time to think of any. + They will probably grow spontaneously in + China. I forgot whether I told you in my + last letter that the Minister of the Interior + has given me a monthly and renewable pass + first class on the Japanese railways. A + friend here asked him for one for Mamma, + too, but he said he was very sorry, that privilege + could not be extended to a woman. So + I’m the only grafter in the family. I + haven’t had a chance to use it yet, but shall + make one at the first opportunity in order + to get the sensation.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page33" title="33"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Friday, February 28.</h2> + + <p>I don’t get much sightseeing done except + in the way of seeing street sights. I am + generally accompanied when I take a walk + for exercise and always taken by some new + way. The other evening we went out after + dinner and took a walk to a lively street + not far off—booksellers with their things + spread out on the sidewalk or rather road, + little lunch wagons, crowded streets and + shops—they have electricity everywhere, + and some geisha girls trotting along with + maids to carry their samisens. We went + into a Japanese movie beside rubbering at + everything and then went into a Japanese + restaurant. Their eating places here are + specialized—this was a noodle shop, and we + tried three kinds, one wheat in a soup, one + buckwheat with fried shrimps, and another + cold with seaweed. For the entire lot for + the two of us it cost 27 cents American + <a class="pagenum" id="page34" title="34"> </a>money, and the place, which was an ordinary + one, was cleaner than any American one, + even the best. The movie story seemed + more complicated than any of ours, and was + certainly slower, because there is a man and + a woman in a little coop near the curtain + who say what the actors are saying whenever + their lips move, this gives a chance of + course for more talk. There were a few + knockouts and a murder and a villain and + a persecuted damsel, and an attempted suicide + to provide thrills, but I couldn’t make + out what it was about even with the aid of + the guide with me. Such are simple pleasures + here, save that when we walk in the + daytime we generally go to a temple where + on the whole the people are more interesting + than the temples, though sometimes the + layout of trees is beautiful and gives much + the same effect of religious calm as a cathedral. + In general the similarity between + worship here and the country Italian + Catholicism is more striking than anything + <a class="pagenum" id="page35" title="35"> </a>else. They are slightly more naïve here—to + see the dolls, woolly dogs, and pinwheels + at the shrines of the children’s gods, besides + their straw slippers, straw sandals and an + occasional child’s kimono is quite touching, + also sometimes a mother has cut off her hair + and pinned it up as an offering. Other + things are as humorous as these are pathetic, + such as making spitballs of written prayers + and pasting the god with them. Some of + the gods are now protected by wire netting + on this account. I have got fairly well used + to the street scenes now and can tell most + of the kinds of shops, such as an undertaker’s + from a cooper’s. What makes the + street so interesting is that you can look in + and see everything going on. I forgot to + mention the most interesting street thing + I’ve seen, a bird catcher with a long limed + pole like a bamboo fishing rod, a basket + with a valve door to put them in and some + other utensils. I didn’t see him catch any, + though.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page36" title="36"> </a>Sunday Morning, March 2.</h2> + + <p>I am writing early because we are going + to-day to Kamakura. You have probably + heard of the big bronze Buddha—fifty feet + high—well, that is there. A friend has arranged + an interview for us with the most + distinguished or most learned of the Buddhist + priests in Japan—who belongs to the + most philosophical of all the sects, the Zen, + which believes in the simple life and is more + or less Stoical; this is the sect that had the + greatest influence on the warrior class in the + good old days. Kamakura is on the other + side of Yokohama, an old Shogun capital; + has lots of historic shrines, etc.</p> + + <p>Yesterday I made my first speech with + an interpreter to a teachers’ association, + some five hundred in all, mostly elementary + school teachers conspicuous for the fact that + only about twenty-five were women. In the + <a class="pagenum" id="page37" title="37"> </a>evening we went to a supper and reception + of the English-Speaking Society, Americans + and Japanese, mostly the latter; both men + and women and the most generally sociable + thing we have seen yet. We have heard said + it was the only place in Tokyo where Japanese + men and women really met in a free + sociable way, and the president said that + when Japanese met for sociable purposes + they were reserved and stiff—at least till the + wine went round—as long as they spoke + Japanese, but speaking English brought + back the habits they got in America and + thawed them out—an interesting psychological + observation on the effect of language.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page38" title="38"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Tuesday, March 4.</h2> + + <p>You would be surprised to see how free + from all affectations this country has remained, + at least so far as we see it. There + is a social democracy here that we do not + know. All Japan is talking democracy now, + which is to be taken in the sense of representative + government rather than in the + sense of tearing down the present form of + government. The representation in elections + here now does not seem to extend much + further, if any, than to include those large + taxpayers who would under any system be + a force in forming policy. The extension + of the suffrage is the great question under + discussion at present. That and the expansion + of special education for men are the + turning points for the coming legislators. + Japan has acquired many new millionaires + during the war and those men are already + <a class="pagenum" id="page39" title="39"> </a>founding new schools for vocational purposes + for men. Four hundred and forty students + are to be sent abroad with a very generous + allowance for living in the different + foreign countries, none of them women, and + no women are mentioned in any of the new + appropriation bills. Not even a mention of + the needs for women.</p> + + <p>Yesterday, to begin, was spent thus: It + was the famous festival of dolls. In the + morning I made a dress for a poor sort of + foreign doll I had hunted out for a little girl. + It was all American. Another ridiculous + imitation of American baby, looking half + caste Japanese, has still to be dressed when + I can find the material for long clothes, but + I presented it as is. They invited me in to + see their exhibition. Some of their dolls are + two hundred years old from their mothers’ + family. I shall try to find some literature + on this festival as it is too long to write + about. But it is true that one begins immediately + to get the passion for dolls; they are + <a class="pagenum" id="page40" title="40"> </a>not dead things like ours, but works of art + symbolic of all the different phases of national + life. The little girls were delighted + with their possessions. If I had only known + about this I should have known what to + bring to Japan for gifts, instead of feeling + as helpless as I did. If you come, bring + dolls.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon I was invited to go to + the best or one of the best collections in the + country and that was a great experience. It + began very painfully for me because I got + lost and was three-quarters of an hour late + at the Imperial Hotel from which we + started. The family that owns this famous + collection is very old and the wife is the + daughter of a Daimyo, hence the dolls are + very old. And they are wonderful, and + more wonderful still their housekeeping + equipment of old lacquer and porcelain and + glass. The doll refreshments are served in + tiny dishes on tiny tables while the guests + sit on the floor, the hostess and her family + <a class="pagenum" id="page41" title="41"> </a>doing all the serving. We had the thick + white wine made from rice poured out of + wonderful little decanters into tiny glasses. + We drank to the health of the family and + the stuff is delicious, with an aroma such as + no honey can excel. After these refreshments + we were shown the room for the tea + ceremony and then taken back into the foreign + part of the house for real refreshments, + which consisted of many and wonderful varieties + of cakes. The tea was served in cups + with saucers decorated with plum blossoms, + this being the time of plum blossoms. Then + tea cups taken away and cups of rich chocolate + placed on the tables. These tables were + high enough for the ordinary chairs. All + the foreign houses are very ugly in style but + very comfortable and mid-Victorian. The + Baroness urged us to eat special cakes and + we left stuffed. One kind is in the form of + a beautiful pink leaf wrapped in a cherry + leaf which has been preserved from last year. + The leaf gives the cake a delicious flavor + <a class="pagenum" id="page42" title="42"> </a>and also a cover to protect the fingers from + its stickiness. Then three little round brown + cakes looking some like chocolate—on a + skewer. You bite off the first one whole, + then slip the other two as you eat them. + Those alone are enough for a meal and very + nourishing. All cakes are made from bean + paste or like our richest pastries. When + that second meal was finished, we said good-bye. + The Baroness and her three pretty + daughters and her sister all followed us to + the outer door and when our auto drove off + the last thing we saw were the bows of the + butlers and these pretty ladies, all saying + one more harmonious good-bye. The + young girls dress in kimonos of wool muslin + of the brightest colors and designs which are + conceivable even to the Japanese imagination. + They look like a very profusely blooming + garden of old fashioned perennials.</p> + + <p>The garden is indescribable. I had some + fancy of what a Japanese garden would look + like, but find it is nothing at all beside the + <a class="pagenum" id="page43" title="43"> </a>reality. This place is big and the grass is + now brown. Most of the grass is covered + with a thick carpet of pine needles and at + the edge of the pine needle carpet a rope of + twisted straw outlines graceful curves. The + use of the big stones is the most surprising + part of the whole. They are very old and + weather-stained, of many shades of gray and + blue-gray, with the short shrubs for a background, + and the severity and simplicity of + the result has a classic beauty which we may + attain in centuries, and only after we have + consumed our abundance of things material.</p> + + <p>Then we went to dinner at the house of + <span class="keep_together">Professor M——.</span> There are six children in + his family, the oldest a man of about twenty-five, + a graduate of the Imperial University, + now a factory inspector for the government; + he speaks eight languages. One of these is + Esperanto, which is his hobby. The French + Professors were there also, two of them, a + clever and amusing pair, who did their duty + in talking, and the young man spoke better + <a class="pagenum" id="page44" title="44"> </a>than any of us and with an excellent pronunciation. + He has never been out of Japan. + Two little girls and a young boy appeared + after dinner and made their pretty bows to + the floor, and then went to a low table and + squatted and played Go the rest of the + evening. Go is the famous shell game. Go + means five and it is a game of fives, but ask + me no more, except that the men are 364 in + number and you play it on an expanded + checker board. There was an endless succession + of food and drinks and we did not + leave till nearly eleven. Japanese families + have many nice drinks which we do not. + Theirs are perhaps no better than our best + ones, but they add to the pleasant variety of + non-alcoholic drinks. Besides those we had + two wines.</p> + + <p>This was the dinner as near as I can remember. + A menu card was at each plate + and I fancy they were intended as souvenirs + for the foreign guests, but I forgot to take + mine, if that was their purpose. We had + <a class="pagenum" id="page45" title="45"> </a>soup, bread of two kinds, and butter. Then + fish patties, then little birds, boned, on toast + with a vegetable, then ramekins of Japanese + macaroni, which is not like ours. Next + roast beef, very tender fillet, with potato + balls, peas, gravy, another vegetable forgot, + and salad, white and red wine, coming after + the orange cider. Then a delicious pudding, + then cake and strawberries. Those berries + are raised out of doors. They are planted + between rows of stones which are heated artificially, + I did not quite understand how, + the vines being kept from touching the + stones by low bamboo trellises. Whipped + cream served with the berries. Then delicious + coffee in foreign style.</p> + + <p>After dinner we leave the reception room + in foreign style and go upstairs to the big + Japanese room, sit by the hibashi or the + grate, and here the children come. At once + tea is served. Then just as we were starting + for home we were urged to stay for a + drink, which was more orange cider, very + <a class="pagenum" id="page46" title="46"> </a>sweet, and bottled waters, which are so good + and come from the many natural springs. + One of the amusements of the Japanese is + seeing the foreign visitors try to sit, and you + can’t wonder they are amused. I can manage + it, in awkward fashion, but your father + can’t even bend for the pose. On Sunday + we sat for two hours in the presence of the + greatest Buddhist priest in Japan, and you + can guess whether we wriggled and if my + feet were asleep if you try the pose for a + few minutes yourself, even on a nice soft + cushion as we were. Getting up properly + is the hardest part of it.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page47" title="47"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Tuesday, March 4.</h2> + + <p>Our friends took us to Kamakura; it isn’t + interesting reading these things in advance + in guide books, so I don’t think a description + will be interesting, but something over seven + hundred years ago, the first Shogun rulers + settled there and made it their capital, of + which nothing is now left save the Buddhist + temples. We met on the train going down + the professor of Japanese literature in the + University, who was going there because it + was the seventh hundred anniversary of a + Shogun who wrote poetry, and the professor + was going over to lecture on his + poems. Also we ran across several hundred + school children, boys and girls with + their teachers, who were spending Sunday + seeing the historic sights. One of the big + temples to the god of war was a kind + <a class="pagenum" id="page48" title="48"> </a>of museum, with old swords and masks + and things in it. They took us to call on + the Reverend Shaku, who is the head of the + Zen sect of Buddhists in Japan, and who + talked—including the interpreter—about + two hours, in answer to questions about + Buddhism, especially his variety. It was + very interesting. We were ushered into a + Japanese room, beautiful proportions, a + lovely kakemono in the alcove—it’s a scroll, + not a kimono—and a five-legged little table + made of metal with mother-of-pearl inlay. + Otherwise nothing but the room with gorgeous + blue and gold chrysanthemums alternating + on the paneled ceiling and five silk + cushions scattered around for us to sit on, + and a single one at the end of the room for + him. In about five minutes another screen + door opened and he appeared in a gorgeous + but simple flowing robe, copper colored. + Then tea and sponge cake—meantime the + talk fest had begun. Incidentally I should + remark that the bowing and kneeling of the + <a class="pagenum" id="page49" title="49"> </a>servants looks much more natural and less + servile when you see people seated on the + floor, and the servants have to kneel to hand + them anything. His personality is that of a + scholarly type, rather ascetic, not over refined, + but not in the least sleek like some of + our Hindu swamis, and very charming. + When we left he thanked us for coming and + expressed his great satisfaction that he had + made some friends. His talk was largely + moral but with a high metaphysical flavor, + somewhat elusive, and reminding one of + Royce. Well it was an experience worth + having, as he is reputed the most learned + and representative Buddhist in Japan, and + as I have remarked before, seeing is quite + different from reading. He was more modern + than Royce in one respect; he said God + is the moral ideal in man and as man develops + the divine principle does also. We + saw the big fifty-foot bronze statue of + Buddha, in some respects the most celebrated + single thing in Japan and again one + <a class="pagenum" id="page50" title="50"> </a>you have to see. It is as impressive as a + cathedral.</p> + + <p>We have been to a dinner party since I + began this. Our host seems to be a universal + genius—a member of the house of peers, an + authority on education, an orchid fancier, a + painter and I don’t know what. There were + over twenty at table, and our health was + drunk in champagne with a little speech, + and two members of the cabinet were there. + The Countess is the mother of eight children, + and looks about thirty and very pretty + for thirty. Three or four of the little girls + were about before and after dinner, and, + like several of the little girls of the new + generation, are as spontaneous and natural + as you would wish. Acquired characteristics + are certainly hereditary in Japan, for + even the most lively and spontaneous children + are civilized. Whatever else you think + about the Japanese they are about the most + highly civilized people on earth, perhaps + overcultivated. I asked Mamma when these + <a class="pagenum" id="page51" title="51"> </a>girls would undergo the clammifying process + and have all their life taken out of them, + and she said never for these girls.</p> + + <p>President Naruse died this morning; as + he had cancer, it was fortunate he did not + linger longer. He was one of the most remarkable + men in Japan. Two days before + he died the Empress sent him a present of + five thousand dollars for his school—a very + great tribute and one which will help the + cause of woman’s education. Speaking of + this family where we dined, you can judge + of the high aristocracy of our hosts of the + evening by the fact that when they showed + us the dolls’ festival, there were some fine + ones which had been sent the Countess by + the Imperial Princesses. The dolls by the + way are never played with—they are works + of art and history to look at. These children + got out their American dolls, of which they + had ten, to show Mamma.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page52" title="52"> </a>March 5.</h2> + + <p>I have now given three lectures. They + are a patient race; there is still a good-sized + audience, probably five hundred. We are + gradually getting a superficial acquaintance + with a good many people, and if I could get + two or three weeks free from lectures to prepare + I could make a business of finding + things out, but as it is I only accumulate certain + impressions. There is no doubt a great + change is going on; how permanent it will + be depends a good deal upon how the rest + of the world behaves. If it doesn’t live up + to its peaceful and democratic professions, + the conservative bureaucrats and militarists, + who of course are still very strong, will say + we told you so and there will be a backset. + But if other countries, and especially our + own, behave decently, the democratizing + here will go on as steadily and as rapidly as + is desirable.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page53" title="53"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Monday, March 10.</h2> + + <p>Yesterday we had our first taste of the + Noh drama. We got there before nine in + the morning, and I left before two to go to + Mr. Naruse’s funeral, but Mamma stayed + till nearly three when she had to go to speak + at a school. Mamma can give you a much + more intelligent idea of it than I can, but + the building is a kind of barnlike structure—the + Elizabethan theater with a vengeance, + and no stage properties except some little + live pines and a big painted one, and except + costumes which are rich and expensive and + the masks which are likewise. It is an + acquired taste, but one which can be + acquired very rapidly. If they weren’t done + with such extraordinary art and technique + they would probably be stupid, to a foreigner + anyway, but as it is they are fascinating, + though it is hard to say what the + source of the fascination is aside from the + <a class="pagenum" id="page54" title="54"> </a>perfection of technique. Conscious control + was certainly born and bred in Japan.</p> + + <p>Mr. Naruse had a very strong hold on + people, and his funeral was an event—all + the autos and most of the ’rickshas in Tokyo + must have been there, and some eight or ten + speakers, and even to me who could understand + nothing it was very impressive. One + of the civilized things is that before the + speaker bowed to the audience—and they + all bowed back—he bowed to the remains, + Which were in a coffin on the platform with + flowers, and more flowers than at an American + funeral.</p> + + <p>We were to have gone to Baron Shibusawa’s + for tea and dinner this afternoon, + but his influenza has gone into pneumonia.</p> + + <p>To go back to Saturday. The reception + was pleasant. We met the Americans who + are educators and in the missionary schools + and colleges; intelligent and well disposed, so + far as I have seen. The criticism of the missionaries + seems to be rather cooked up. Just + <a class="pagenum" id="page55" title="55"> </a>now there is a fuss over them in Korea, because + there is some agitation going on there + for independence, and it seems to have + started with Koreans who had been in missionary + schools. The missionaries here seem + much divided, some of them blaming the + missionaries over there, saying they will + bring Christianity into disrepute everywhere + in Japan, and some saying that it + proves Christian teaching amounts to something + and that it will have a good effect in + improving conditions, leading to foreign + criticism and publicity, and causing the Japanese + to modify their colonial policy, which + seems to be under military rather than civil + control. There is a rumor that the ex-Emperor + of Korea didn’t die a natural + death, but committed suicide, with the hope + of putting off or preventing the marriage of + his oldest son to a Japanese princess—they + were to have been married very soon. No + one seems to know whether the story was invented + to encourage the revolutionaries in + <a class="pagenum" id="page56" title="56"> </a>Korea or has truth in it. Meanwhile they + say the wedding is going to take place, and + the Japanese are sorry for their poor princess, + who is sacrificed to marry a foreigner.</p> + + <p>Thursday evening Mamma invited the + <span class="keep_together">X——’s</span> and some others, eight including + ourselves, to supper in a Japanese restaurant, + a beef restaurant—they are all specialized—where + we not only sat on the floor and ate + with chop sticks, but where the little slices + of thin beefsteak were brought in raw with + vegetables to flavor, and cooked over a little + pan on a charcoal hibashi, one fire to each + two persons. Naturally it was lots of fun, + a kind of inside picnic.</p> + + <p>Oh, yes, something happened Friday. + We went to the Imperial Museum in the + morning and the curator showed us about—I + won’t describe a museum—but on the way + home we were taken into a pipe store and + Mamma purchased three little Japanese + pipes, ladies’ pipes, to take home. Quite + cunning, and the dealer said this was the + <a class="pagenum" id="page57" title="57"> </a>first time he had ever sold anything to a + foreigner, so he presented her with a little + ladies’ pouch and a pipe holder, both made + from Holland cloth, not anything very + precious, but probably worth as much as her + entire purchase, certainly more than the + profit on his sales. These things are quite + touching and an offset to the stories about + their bad business methods, because it is + really a matter of hospitable courtesy to the + foreigner, though he said himself they generally + put the price up for the foreigner on + antiques.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page58" title="58"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Thursday, March 14.</h2> + + <p>We have just had a mild picnic. Mamma + has a slight cold, so the maids brought her + supper up to her and for sociability brought + mine up too. Mamma got out a Japanese + phrase book and pronounced various + phrases to them; to see them giggle and + bend double, no theater was ever so funny. + When I got to my last bite, I inquired the + name of the food, and said it and “Sayonaraâ€â€”good + night. This old gag was a + triumph of humor. They are certainly a + good-natured people. I have watched the + children come out from a public school near + here, and never yet have I seen a case of + bullying or even of teasing, except of a very + good-natured kind, no quarreling and next + to no disputing. Yet they are sturdy little + things and no mollycoddles. To see a boy + of ten or twelve playing tag and jumping + <a class="pagenum" id="page59" title="59"> </a>ditches with a boy strapped to his back is a + sight. There are no public rebukes or scoldings + of the children or even cross words, to + say nothing of slappings, no nagging, at + least not in public. Some would say that + the children are not scolded because they + are good, but it is a fair guess that it is + the other way. But it must be admitted + that so far as amiable exterior and cheerfulness + and courtesy is concerned, they have + no bad examples set them. Some foreigners + say all this is only skin deep, but the + manners of the foreigners who say these + things aren’t any too good even from our + standards. Anyway, skin deep is better + than nothing and good as far as it goes. + However, the Japanese say that their courtesy + is reserved for their friends and people + they know, not that they have bad manners + to strangers, but that they pay no attention + to them, and won’t go out of their way to + do anything for them.</p> + + <p>I told about the man who made Mamma + <a class="pagenum" id="page60" title="60"> </a>a present when she bought the pipes. + Yesterday we were in that region and + Mamma went in again and bought another, + and paid him a compliment on what people + said about the present. Whereupon + he gets up and fishes out another more valuable + pouch, somewhat ragged and old, the + kind the actors now use on the stage, and + offers it. Mamma naturally tries to avoid + it, but can’t. He informs her through the + friend with us that he likes Americans very + much. An international matter having + been made of it, the pouch is accepted, and + now we have to think up some present to + give him. However, we have told this story + to several Americans here, and they say + they have never heard anything like it.</p> + + <p>We were to have gone to the Peeress’s + School this morning, an appointment having + been made to show us about. Mamma’s + cold preventing her going, we had somebody + ‘phone to see if the time could be changed. + And this afternoon appear for her some + <a class="pagenum" id="page61" title="61"> </a>lovely lilies and amaryllis—these being from + people we had never seen. A Freudian + would readily infer how bad my own manners + are from the amount I talk about this.</p> + + <p>We went to a Japanese restaurant for + supper. This was a fish restaurant, and we + cooked the fish and vegetables ourselves, but + over gas, not charcoal this time. Then we + had side dishes, fish, lobster, etc., innumerable. + Instead of bringing you in a bill of + fare to order from, the coolie brings a big + tray with samples of everything on it, and + you help yourself. One thing was abalones + on the half shell, these being babies, about + like our clams, but not so tough, to say nothing + of as tough as the big ones. I didn’t + try the fried devil fish and other luxuries, + but wandered pretty far afield. When you + have leisure, try eating lobster in the shell + with chop sticks. You will resort to something + more ancient than chop sticks, as I + did. This restaurant is quite plebeian, + though it has a great reputation for its + <a class="pagenum" id="page62" title="62"> </a>secret recipe for the sauce the fish is cooked + in, but it was considerably more expensive + than the other—probably because we sampled + so many side dishes; the other one cost + less than five dollars for eight people—good + food and all anybody could eat.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page63" title="63"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, March 14th.</h2> + + <p>The ceremony of breakfast is over, and + I am sorry again you cannot all share in + these daily festivals which add so much to + the dignity of living. We are now studying + Japanese with the aid of the maids. I + missed going to the Dolls’ Festival at a + private kindergarten and the result—this + morning by mail a postcard from the children + with numerous presents made by them, + all dolls, and those I will send home, as they + are interesting. With the presents they + say: “We made cakes and prepared for + your coming and we were in the depths of + despair when you did not come. Please + come another time.†I am sure there is no + other country in the world like this. The + language is an impossible one. The way + given in the phrases of the guide book is the + way the man speaks. So when I stammer + <a class="pagenum" id="page64" title="64"> </a>off those phrases the girls are literally + tickled to death. When they tell me what + I ought to say in the more elaborated + polite way of the women, then I am floored. + It is all an amusing game and relieves the + watch they keep on each bite we take so as + to be ready to supply more. Everything + they do is marked with the kindliest attitude + and every act or move is one of friendship.</p> + + <p>This is the program for to-day: Go to + lunch at the house of some missionaries, + then to father’s lecture at 3:30, then to + dinner for University of Chicago students. + To-morrow will be an open day for me and + the little secretary will take me shopping. + The big department store is the fashionable + place where all the noble and rich buy their + kimonos, and I may supplement my secondhand + attempts with a new one. When I + get to Kyoto I hope to find a real old one, + as the new style of weave are infected with + foreign influence. The other evening with + <span class="keep_together">Y——</span> we found a little shop for antiques + <a class="pagenum" id="page65" title="65"> </a>which is a gem to look at. An old man and + his wife, <span class="keep_together">Y——</span> says he bets they are Samurai, + with the politeness of real nobles, and + their little place as carefully arranged for + beauty as if it were their home—which it is. I + broke an old Kutani plate and I inquired for + one there. They had none, but we looked at + their things, they with many bows, and when + we left said we were sorry to have troubled + them for nothing. They replied, “Please + excuse us for not having the thing you + wanted.â€</p> + + <p>To-morrow we go to lunch here in the + neighborhood with a very clever and interesting + family (of a professor). None of the + women call, at least none of the married + ones, all being afraid of their English for + one reason, but I am learning to just take + things as they come and not to bother over + formalities, never knowing whether that is + the best way or not. The wedding of last + Tuesday was the most interesting function + I have seen. The marriage ceremony was + <a class="pagenum" id="page66" title="66"> </a>the Christian one. The company represented + the rich and fashionable of the city. + The ladies all wear black crepe kimonos, + that splendid crepe which is so heavy, next + under the black is an all white of soft china + silk, then the third of bright color. <span class="keep_together">K——’s</span> + was that bright vermilion red. Her + sleeves were not very long, as she is a + mother, but the young girls wear bright + colored kimonos and long sleeves that + almost touch the floor. The bride wears + black, too. All these dress-up kimonos + have decorations in color, sometimes embroidered + and sometimes dyed on the lower + points of the front. The bride’s was spread + out on the floor around her just like the + old pictures, embroidered in heavy rose + peonies, her undergarment and the lining of + the black, in rose color. Her hair was done + in the old conventional way shown in the + prints with the long pins of light tortoise + shell with bouquets of tiny flowers carved + at the ends, which stuck out about three + <a class="pagenum" id="page67" title="67"> </a>inches, making a crown over her head. The + receiving party is as follows: First, father + of groom; second, mother of bride; third, + groom; fourth, bride; fifth, father of bride; + sixth, mother of groom. The line is straight + and the bride is perfectly arranged like an + old print, she and the groom with their eyes + cast down. As each person passes, they + make bows all along the line at once, but + they do not move hand or eyes or a fold of + these perfect clothes. I forgot to say the + men, unfortunately, wear European dress. + Then we moved on to two large rooms, the + men all seated and smoking in one, and the + women in the other. Those who knew me + were very kind. <span class="keep_together">Countess H——</span> introduced + me to the bridesmaids; at least they would + be the maids at home. They were the sisters + and young relatives all dressed in the most + brilliant kimonos and embroidered and decorated + to the limit; they looked like all the + parrots and peacocks and paradise and blue + birds and every lovely color imaginable, + <a class="pagenum" id="page68" title="68"> </a>while the uniform black of the guests, + decorated with the pure white of their crests + which stand out in such a group, formed + the perfect background, free from all the + messiness which is so apparent in a diversified + gathering of all sorts of color and shape + and materials in our land. At tea, which + was very elaborate and taken sitting at + the tables, the family of the two filled one + table, a long one at the end of the room. + The bride now wore a green kimono, equally + brilliant; about two feet away from her sat + the groom, both in the middle of the long + table.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page69" title="69"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Thursday, March 20.</h2> + + <p>We have had a number of social events + this week. Tuesday evening <span class="keep_together">General H——,</span> + who speaks no English but who came over + on the <i class="shipname">Shinyo</i> with us, gave a party for + us in the gardens of the Arsenal Grounds. + We could not have entered the Arsenal + Grounds in any other way. There were + about twenty-five people there, mostly + Christian Association people, and the + clergyman of the Japanese church where I + had spoken the night before. He is keen + about introducing more democracy in + Japan, and I spoke on the moral meaning + of democracy. Well, the garden isn’t a + garden at all in our sense, but a park, and + the finest in Tokyo outside of the Imperial + ones. It is quite different from the miniature + ones we know as Japanese gardens, + being of fair size, with none of those cunning + <a class="pagenum" id="page70" title="70"> </a>little imitations in it; big imitations + there are in plenty, as it was a fad of the + old landscapists, as you might know, to reproduce + on a small scale celebrated scenes + elsewhere. The old Daimyo, who built this + one two hundred years ago, was a great admirer + of the Chinese and reproduced several + famous Chinese landscapes as well as one + from Kyoto. The extraordinary thing is + the amount of variety they get in a small + space; they could reproduce the earth, including + the Alps and a storm in the Irish + Channel, if they had Central Park. Every + detail counts; it is all so artistically figured + out and every little rock has a meaning of + its own so that a barbarian can only get a + surface view. It would have to be studied + like an artist’s masterpiece to take it all in. + The arsenal factory fumes have killed many + of the old trees and much of the glory has + departed.</p> + + <p>Probably Mamma has written you that + she has one young woman, Japanese, coming + <a class="pagenum" id="page71" title="71"> </a>on the ship with us under her care, to + New York to study; and to-day another + young lady called, and said she wanted to + go back to America. About the young + women going home with us, <span class="keep_together">Y——</span> said we + would have to be careful, as one time his + mother was offered seventeen damsels to + escort when she was going over, of whom + she took three. You may not appreciate + the fact that going to America to study + means practically giving up marriage; they + will be old maids and out of it by the time + they return—also those who have been in + America do not take kindly to having a + marriage arranged for them. At a lecture + I listened to yesterday, a Japanese woman, + close to thirty, was pointed out to me as + about to get married to an American architect + here. There are exceptions, but this + case is evidently a famous romance. The + lecture was on Social Aspects of Shinto; + Shinto is the official cult though not the + established religion of Japan. Although + <a class="pagenum" id="page72" title="72"> </a>nothing is said that wasn’t scientifically a + matter of course to be said—I mean supposing + it was scientifically correct—one of + the most interesting things was the caution + that was taken to avoid publication of anything + said. On one side the Imperial + Government is theocratic, and this is the + most sensitive side, so that historical criticism + or analysis of old documents is not + indulged in, the Ancestors being Gods or + the Gods being Ancestors. One bureaucratic + gentleman felt sure that the divine + ancestors must have left traces of their own + language somewhere, so he investigated the + old shrines, and sure enough he found on + some of the beams characters different from + Chinese or Japanese. These he copied and + showed for the original language—till some + carpenters saw them and explained that + they were the regular guild marks.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page73" title="73"> </a><em class="location">Kamakura</em>, Thursday, March 27.</h2> + + <p>This weather beats Chicago for changeableness. + Monday, at midnight, it was + storming rain; when we got up the next + day it was the brightest, warmest day we + have had. We spent it sightseeing and went + out without an overcoat. The magnolia + trees are in full bloom. Yesterday and to-day + are as raw March days as I ever saw + anywhere; there would have been frost last + night but for the wind. Tuberculosis is rife + here and no wonder.</p> + + <p>Three of the University professors have + called on me this morning. They wish to + arrange in every detail for our movements + when we leave here. I suppose I was asked + twenty times how long we are to stay in + Kamakura. When I said I didn’t know, it + depended on weather and other things, they + said, “Oh, yes,†and in five minutes asked + <a class="pagenum" id="page74" title="74"> </a>the same question again. Whether they arrange + everything in minute detail for themselves + in advance or whether they think we + are helpless foreigners I can’t make out; + some of both, I think. But they can’t understand + that we can’t give an exact date + for everything we are going to do till we + go to China. At the same time I never + knew anybody to change their own plans, + especially socially, as much as they do.</p> + + <p>There is a great anti-American drive on + now; seems to be largely confined to newspapers, + but also stimulated artificially somewhat, + presumably by the militaristic faction, + which has lost more prestige in the last few + months than in years, with a corresponding + gain in liberal sentiment. They have consequently + found it necessary to do something + to come back. Criticism of the + United States is the easiest way to arrest + the spread of liberal sentiments and + strengthen the arguments for a big militaristic + party, like twisting the lion’s tail + <a class="pagenum" id="page75" title="75"> </a>with us. Discussion about race discrimination + is very active and largely directed + against the United States in spite of Australia + and Canada, and also in spite of the + fact that Chinese and Korean immigration + here is practically forbidden, and they discriminate + more against the Chinese than we + do against them. But consistency is not + the strong point of politics in any country. + Excepting on the subject of race discrimination, + foreigners in contact with Japanese + do not find the anti-American feeling which + is expressed in papers. If the Anglo-Japanese + treaty of alliance should lapse because + of the League of Nations or anything + else, America will be held responsible, even + if the British are the cause. Two years + ago there was a similar anti-British drive + here, and pretty hard bargains were driven + with the British ally in all war matters. + Now that Germany and Russia are out of + it, England has no apparent reason for + snuggling up much and the shoe is on the + <a class="pagenum" id="page76" title="76"> </a>other foot. Which makes the attack on the + U.S. all the more stupid, as they are internationally + quite lonely, even if they tie + up with France on account of similar Russian + interests, financial and otherwise.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page77" title="77"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Wednesday, March 28.</h2> + + <p>To-morrow we are going to Kamakura + again; it is only an hour and a half from + here. We are going to take a little trip into + the mountain and hot-spring district also, + but the cherry blossom season is much advanced, + ten days earlier than usual, and we + are afraid it will spring itself in our absence + if we go far, so probably we shall be + back here in a few days for about a week. + Then we shall take a five-day trip on our + way to Kyoto, going to the shrine at Ise. + This is the oldest and most sacred Shinto + shrine in Japan, which means that it is the + central spot for imperial ancestor worship. + Speaking of ancestors, you remember our + references to the Count. The father of his + first wife has recently been made a Baron. + Parliament being over, the Count has left + for the southern Island to inform the ancestors + <a class="pagenum" id="page78" title="78"> </a>of his first wife, who are buried there, + of the important item of family gossip. The + oldest liberal statesman of aristocratic descent, + who was quite intimate with the late + Emperor, won’t go to the annual meeting + to celebrate the granting of the Constitution + by the late Emperor because he is so + disgusted that no more progress has been + made in constitutionalism, and says he cannot + meet his late master until he can report + progress to him. Otherwise he would be + ashamed to meet him as he feels responsible + to the Emperor. This would not be any + place for a spiritualist to earn his living. + They are clear past mediums.</p> + + <p>We have chiefly been eating lately. I + had two Japanese meals, a la chop sticks, + yesterday and one to-day. Luncheon yesterday + at a restaurant, where we had lots + of things you never heard of, to say nothing + of eating them, and a dinner at a friend’s. + There were twelve courses at table and two + or three afterwards—not counting tea, and + <a class="pagenum" id="page79" title="79"> </a>much the same at another dinner to-night. + We have a bill of fare written on fans, only + in Japanese, and little silver salt cellars as + souvenirs besides. One feature of both + dinners was soup three times, at the beginning, + about the middle and again at closing, + at these functions rice is not served till + near the last course. Then there were one + or two semi-soupy courses thrown in. I + can eat raw fish and ask no questions; and + in a bird restaurant, Sunday for luncheon, + I ate raw chicken wrapped in seaweed; + abalone is my middle name, and some of + the shell fish we eat is probably devil fish.</p> + + <p>We have been here over six weeks now, + and in taking an inventory it can be said + that while we have not done as much sightseeing + as some six-day tourists, I think we + have seen more Japanese under normal + home conditions than most Americans in six + months, and have seen an unusually large + number of people to talk to, not the official + crowd but the representative intellectual + <a class="pagenum" id="page80" title="80"> </a>liberals. I have seen less but found out + more than I ever expected about Japanese + conditions, which is quite the opposite of + European experience in traveling. When I + come back I shall try to see a few of the + official people, since I now know enough + to judge what they may say. On the whole, + America ought to feel sorry for Japan, or + at least sympathetic with it, and not afraid. + When we have so many problems it seems + absurd to say they have more, but they certainly + have fewer resources, material and + human, in dealing with theirs than we have, + and they have still to take almost the first + step in dealing with many of them. It is + very unfortunate for them that they have + become a first-class power so rapidly and + with so little preparation in many ways; it + is a terrible task for them to live up to their + position and reputation and they may crack + under the strain.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page81" title="81"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, Tuesday, April 1.</h2> + + <p>The Japanese do one thing that we + should do well to imitate. They teach the + children in school a very nice lesson about + the beauty and the responsibility of being + polite and kind to the foreigner, like being + so to the guests of your own house. This + adds to the national dignity.</p> + + <p>Yesterday the Emperor got out and I + caught him at it. Quite an amazing and + lucky experience for me and no harm to + him, as I had not known he ever went out + before I picked him up in the street. I went + down our hill as usual with a friend to take + the car. At this side of the street where the + car passes, we walk across the bridge on + the canal and then turn and walk one block + to the car stop. When we got to the other + side of the bridge all the people on both + sides of the street were massed in a nice + <a class="pagenum" id="page82" title="82"> </a>little quiet line and three policemen were + carefully and gently placing each one according + to his height so he could see as well + as possible. So we lined in with the rest + while the policeman looked on in an encouraging + fashion. Nobody spoke out loud, + and after I had noticed the friend with me + having a conversation with the officer, I + ventured to ask why we were left standing + there. With the same quiet, she said: “The + Emperor is passing on his way to the + commencement exercises of Waseda University.†+ Well, you could have knocked me + over with a feather. I don’t suppose I + should have known what was happening at + all unless I could have figured it out from + the Chrysanthemums on the carriage + doors. I said to her: “How is he coming, + in an automobile? How long are we to + stand here?†I had visions of the + stories about the streets being cleared, + and the doors shut for some hours while + white sand was sprinkled over the car + <a class="pagenum" id="page83" title="83"> </a>tracks, and all the rest. “No,†she said, + “just a little time.†I saw by now that I + was not likely to have much gossip poured + out to me about the Emperor, so I just + fixed a nice little thing about three years + old in front of me and then we waited with + the rest of the school children. Soon the + procession came, first a body of horse in + plain khaki uniforms, then one very Japanese-looking + man alone on the back seat + in one of the light victorias, very clean and + shiny, with the Chrysanthemums on the + door. He was dressed in a khaki wool uniform + just like the rest of the army with a cap + on his head. Then came some other shiny, + light little victorias with two horses, all just + alike. I rubbered my best and I had a very + good look at the one little man alone in the + middle of the seat, and sitting up and looking + straight ahead of him pleasantly. In + the midst of the passing I asked the companion + with me, “Which is the Emperor?†+ and she answered “The one in the first carriage,†+ <a class="pagenum" id="page84" title="84"> </a>and still there was that quiet of + perfect breeding; and by and by all the nice + little soldiers on horseback passed, and after + I had stood a little longer on the edge of + my bridge I started our little procession + moving towards the car. The Emperor had + gone the opposite way. After a little I + said: “I did not know the Emperor went + to commencements and things like that,†+ and I chattered on, and then my companion + said in her slow, proper, calm tone: “That + is my first experience to see the Emperor, + too.†And I said “Is that so?†and asked + some more questions, still wondering that + no one had called out a Banzai nor made a + sound, and it is not till to-day that I learned + that all the people were standing with their + eyes cast down to the ground, and that I + was the only one who looked at the Emperor, + and their reverence was so great that + that was the reason I had not heard them + breathe. For another thing, Waseda is the + liberal university and private, so I wondered + <a class="pagenum" id="page85" title="85"> </a>still till I learned then that the + Emperor was going to the Peers’ School + commencement, and that is the one commencement + he goes to every year. So you + see I had luck, and my conscience was clear + for having rubbered, and I have seen the + Emperor.</p> + + <p>The Imperial Garden party comes off + the week after we leave Tokyo. To this + party all the nobles of the third rank and + above, and all the professors in the Imperial + University, and all the foreigners of + latest arrival, are asked. So a foreigner + can go just once and no more unless a Professor. + We put our names down in the + Ambassador’s book for an invitation before + we knew all the niceties of the case. So + now that we have learned that we can go + once and no more, and that we are expected + to go if we are invited, we will take back + our request for an invitation as the party + is on the 17th of April, and we are to be + in Kyoto on the 15th. So in our good luck, + <a class="pagenum" id="page86" title="86"> </a>a daughter of a Baron, who is a member of + the Imperial household, has asked us to go + with her to-morrow to see the Imperial + Garden where the party is to be and we + may see the gardens all the better. This + Imperial Garden is one of the prince’s + gardens and not the one behind the moat + where the Emperor lives. It seems the fall + chrysanthemum party is in that garden, + though never inside the inner moat where + no one goes unless he has an audience. The + moat and the surroundings of the palace + are lovely, but as you can read the guide + book if you want a description, I will not + bore you with an attempt. The walls of + the moat were built by labor of the feudal + dependencies, and like all such labor it + spared no pains to be splendid. Some of + the moats have been filled up long ago, but + there are still three around the palace. Inside + the outer one you may walk part of the + time and see the grand gates with their + solemn guards. In these gardens the air is + <a class="pagenum" id="page87" title="87"> </a>fresh and the birds sing in the trees, and + the dust of the city never gets there.</p> + + <p>To-night I am wearing tabi, those nice + little toe socks which will not fit my feet, + but which are so much nicer than the felt + toe slippers that fall off your feet every + time you go upstairs. As a matter of fact, + I wear ordinary house slippers in this house, + but it is nicer not to and we always take + them off when we come in from outdoors. + Truly, the Japanese are a cleaner people + than we are. Have I told you we bathe in + a Japanese tub? Every night a hot, very + hot wooden box over three feet deep is filled + for us. This one has water turned in from + a faucet, but in Kamakura the little charcoal + stove is in the end of the tub and the + water is carried in by buckets, and is reheated + each night. It seems all right and + I regret all the years our country went + without bath tubs, and all the fuss we made + to get them when this little, simple device + was all there and as old as the hills. But + <a class="pagenum" id="page88" title="88"> </a>we can catch up with the heating and cooking + with charcoal hibashi.</p> + + <p>We have learned to eat with chop sticks + very well, and it is not a bad way. The + main objection I see to it is that one eats + too fast, and Fletcherizing is not known in + this country. The nice little way of doing + your own cooking is something to introduce + for cuteness in New York. These last few + days we have just been sightseeing in the + real European sense, running about town + and buying small things all day and then + having the wonderful advantage of coming + back to this delightful home of perfect comfort + at night, which is quite unlike Europe, + and spoils us for the common lot of knocking + about.</p> + + <p>The greatest actor of the country is here. + He belongs in Osaka, his name is Ganjiro, + and we have a box for Thursday. The play + is the one that was given in New York + called “Bushido.†It is much longer than + as given there. It is called by another + <a class="pagenum" id="page89" title="89"> </a>name and is acted quite differently. On + Sunday we are going again to the Noh + Dance, or if no good tickets are to be had + for that, we are going to a theater where + women act all the parts to offset the usual + way here of having only men in the company. + The men who act women’s parts + here do make up very well. They live and + dress and act as women all the time so as + not to lose the art. Only when they stand + in pose they cannot conceal the fact that + they are men. The play begins at one in + the afternoon and lasts until ten at night. + Tea and dinner is brought into your box + in those nice little lacquer lunch boxes. + Ganjiro is on the stage in every scene for + eight hours, so you can see the actors work + for their art here. The costumes are + superb, but the actors do not simply strut + to show off. Their speech being very affected + in manner they have had to depend + upon expression to get results, and as a + consequence their acting is done with their + <a class="pagenum" id="page90" title="90"> </a>entire body more than any other school in + the world. The best ones, like the ones we + are to see, can express any emotion, so ’tis + said, with their backs and the calves of their + legs when you can’t see their faces.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page91" title="91"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, April 1.</h2> + + <p>Our activities of late have been miscellaneous; + we spent three days, counting coming + and going four days, at Kamakura last + week. It is on the seaside and is a great + resort, summer and winter, for the Japanese, + and at the hotel for Europeans over weekends. + For summers the foreigners go to + the mountains, while the Japanese take to + the seaside, largely because there is more + for the children to do on the seashore, but + partly because mountains seem to be an + acquired taste. Kamakura is about ten degrees + warmer than Tokyo, as it is sheltered + by the hills. Peas were in blossom and the + cherry trees all out. It was cold and rainy + while we were there, however, except one + day, when we crowded in so much sightseeing + we got rather tired. Mamma and I + are now catching up on calls, prior to leaving + <a class="pagenum" id="page92" title="92"> </a>and doing some sightseeing. To-day + we went to a shop where they publish very + fine reproductions of the old art of Japan, + including Chinese paintings owned in + Japan, much better worth buying than the + color print reproductions to my mind, + though we have laid in some reproductions + of the latter. There are so many millionaires + made by the war in Japan, that lots + of the old lords are selling out part of their + treasures now; prices I think are too high + even for Americans. The old Daimyo + families evidently have enough business + sense to take advantage of the market, + though some are hard up and sell more for + that reason. A week ago we went to an + auction room where there was a big collection + of genuine old stuff, much finer than + appears in the curio shops, and this weekend + there is another big sale by a Marquis. + However, it is said they keep the best + things and unload on the nouveau riche; not + but what a lot of it is mighty good as it is.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page93" title="93"> </a>My other experience that I have not + written about is seeing Judo. The great + Judo expert is president of a normal school, + and he arranged a special exhibition by + experts for my benefit, he explaining the + theory of each part of it in advance. It + took place Sunday morning in a big Judo + hall, and there were lots of couples doing + “free†work, too; they are too quick for my + eye in that to see anything but persons suddenly + thrown over somebody’s back and + flopped down on the ground. It is really + an art. The Professor took the old practices + and studied them, worked out their + mechanical principles, and then devised a + graded scientific set of exercises. The system + is really not a lot of tricks, but is based + on the elementary laws of mechanics, a + study of the equilibrium of the human body, + the ways in which it is disturbed, how to recover + your own and take advantage of the + shiftings of the center of gravity of the + other person. The first thing that is taught + <a class="pagenum" id="page94" title="94"> </a>is how to fall down without being hurt, that + alone is worth the price of admission and + ought to be taught in all our gyms. It isn’t + a good substitute for out-of-door games, + but I think it is much better than most of + our inside formal gymnastics. The mental + element is much stronger. In short, I think + a study ought to be made here from the + standpoint of conscious control. Tell Mr. + Alexander to get a book by Harrison—a + compatriot of his—out of the library, called + “The Fighting Spirit of Japan.†It is a + journalist’s book, not meant to be deep, but + is interesting and said to be reliable as far + as it goes. I noticed at the Judo the small + waists of all these people; they breathe always + from the abdomen. Their biceps are + not specially large, but their forearms are + larger than any I have ever seen. I have + yet to see a Japanese throw his head back + when he rises. In the army they have an + indirect method of getting deep breathing + which really goes back to the Buddhist Zen + <a class="pagenum" id="page95" title="95"> </a>teaching of the old Samurai. However, + they have adopted a lot of the modern + physical exercises from other armies.</p> + + <p>The gardens round here are full of cherry + trees in blossom—and the streets are full of + people too full of saké. The Japanese take + their drunkenness apparently seasonly, as + we hadn’t seen drunken people till now.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page96" title="96"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, April 2.</h2> + + <p>We have had another great day to-day. + This morning rose early and wrote letters, + which were not sent in spite of the haste, as + we decided the slow boat was slower than + waiting for a later and faster one. So you + ought to get many letters at once. The day + has been sunshiny and bright, but not at all + sultry, so perfect for getting about. We + went to the art store to get some prints + which we had selected the day before and + then on to call on a Professor of Political + Economy, who is also a member of Parliament, + radical and very wide awake and interesting, + quite like an American in his + energy and curiosity and interest. We + visited and learned a lot about things here + and there and then he took us to lunch at + his mother-in-law’s house. They have a + beautiful house in Japanese style, with a + <a class="pagenum" id="page97" title="97"> </a>foreign style addition, like most of the + houses of the rich, the Japanese part + having no resemblance whatever to the + foreign, which is so much less beautiful. + In carpets and table covers and tapestries + imitated from the German, the Japanese + have no taste, while in their own line they + remain exquisite. This house is one of the + most absolute cleanliness. No floor in it but + shines like a mirror and has not a fleck of + dust, never had one. Let me see if I can + describe accurately this entertainment. We + took three ’rickshas and rode through the + cherry lined narrow streets over hills where + are the lovely gardens of the rich showing + through the gateways and showing over the + top of the bamboo walls, which are built of + poles about six feet long upright and tied + together with cords. They are very pretty + with the green. When we reached the house + <span class="keep_together">Mr. U——</span> took us in to the foreign drawing + room, which is very mid-Victorian and German + in its general effect. This one has in + <a class="pagenum" id="page98" title="98"> </a>it a beautiful lacquer cabinet, very large and + quite overpowering every other thing in the + room. There the ladies of the house came + in and made their bows, very amiable and + smiling at our thanks for their hospitality. + The sister-in-law, a young girl of sixteen, + who wants to go to America, and afterwards + the grandmother, very much the commanding + character that a grandmother ought to + be. The children hovered round them all + much like our children. The ladies brought + us tea with their own hands in lovely blue + and white cups with little lacquer stands and + covers. Candy with the tea, which was + green. I forgot to say that we had already, + during the hour with <span class="keep_together">Mr. U——</span> had tea three + different times and of three different kinds, + besides little refreshments therewith. After + a little we were summoned to lunch. Three + places set on a low table and a beautiful blue + brocade cushion to sit upon. The two + younger ladies on their knees ready to serve + us. They poured out wine for us, or Vermouth, + <a class="pagenum" id="page99" title="99"> </a>and we took the latter. We had + before us, each, one lacquer bowl, covered, + that contained the usual fish soup with little + pieces of fish and green things cut up in it. + This we drink, putting the solid bits into + our mouths with the chop sticks. The + grandmother thought she ought to have prepared + foreign food, but the clever girl of + sixteen had spoken for home food, and so + we thanked them for giving that to us, as + we seldom get a real genuine Japanese + meal. And this is the first we have had + where we were served by the ladies of the + house, except the dolls’ food at the festival. + It seems this is the highest compliment that + we have had, as the real Japanese home is + open to the foreigner only when the foreigner + is asked to sit on the floor and is + served by the ladies of the household. They + kneel near the table and the maid brings the + dishes and hands them to the ladies, who in + turn serve the dishes to the guests. It is + very pretty. I have reached the stage where + <a class="pagenum" id="page100" title="100"> </a>I can sit on my heels for the length of a + meal, but I rise very awkwardly, as my + feet are asleep clear up to my knees at + the end. We ate soup, cold fried lobster + and shrimps, which are dipped in sauce + besides; and cold vegetables in another + bowl, and then hot fried fish; then some + little pickles, then rice, of which the + Japanese eat several bowls, then the dessert, + which has been beside you all the + time, and is a cold omelette, which tastes + very good, and then they give you tea, Formosa + oolong. We had toast, too, but that + is foreign. Then we left the table and were + shown the rooms upstairs, which contain + many pieces of lacquer and bronze and + woodwork, and then we went down and + there was tea and a dish of fruit ready for + us. We had not much time for this, as they + were going to send us in a motor to the + Imperial Gardens. But as the last kind of + tea had to be brought we were at the door + putting on our shoes when it arrived. This + <a class="pagenum" id="page101" title="101"> </a>tea is strong oolong and has milk in it, with + two lumps of sugar for you to put in yourself. + Thus we had been served with tea six + times within three hours.</p> + + <p>It is hard to describe the Imperial Gardens. + Read the guide book and you will + see that it is. Ten thousand orchid plants + were the beginning of the sight. We saw + the lettuce and the string beans and the tomatoes + and potatoes and eggplant and + melons, and all growing under glass, for the + Emperor to eat. Never saw such perfect + lettuce, all the heads in one frame of exactly + the same size and arrangement, as if they + were artificial, and all the others just right. + Why potatoes under glass? Don’t ask me. + Grapes in pots looked as if the raising of + grapes under glass was in its beginning, but + maybe not, as I was not familiar enough + with those little vines to know whether they + would bear or not. The flowers in the + frames were perfection. Masses of Mignonette + daisies, and some other bright + <a class="pagenum" id="page102" title="102"> </a>flowers I did not know were ready to + put out in the beds which were prepared + for the garden party. We cannot go + on the 17th. A very large pavilion with + shingle roof under which the Emperor and + Empress are to sit at the party is being + built and will be taken down the next day, + or rather week, as it will take more than + one day. Then if it rains there will be no + party. To-night it looks as if rain might + spoil the blossoms. But to-day was perfect. + It is a little surprising when one sees this + famous garden after reading about Japanese + gardens for all one’s life. There is such + a large expanse of grass with no flowers and + the grass does not get green here so soon as + with us, and it is now all brown, though big + masses of daffodils are superb. These under + the cherry trees with the sunshine shining + through slantways made one of the brilliant + sights of a lifetime. The artificial lakes + and rivers and waterfall and the bridges and + islands and hills with big birds walking and + <a class="pagenum" id="page103" title="103"> </a>swimming make enough to have come for to + Japan. The groups of trees are as fine as + anything can be and across the long expanses + the view of them is like a succession + of pictures. There are a hundred and sixty-five + acres in the park, no buildings. In the + beginning it was pretty well to one side of + the city, but now it is on a car track of much + travel, though still on the outskirts on its + outer edge.</p> + + <p>On Monday we have arranged to go to + the theater again at the Imperial. To-day + it is the great actor Ganjiro at a small theater. + It is said the jealousy of the Tokyo + actors and managers keeps Ganjiro from getting + a fair chance when he comes here. <span class="keep_together">Mr. T——,</span> + formerly of Chicago, has just been + here to try to arrange a dinner for us before + we leave, the dinner to be at a restaurant + with all the old students present. The restaurants + are always amusing and we agreed, + of course. This may keep us in Tokyo one + day longer, though that is not decided yet. + <a class="pagenum" id="page104" title="104"> </a>For the rest of the time we are to make + up on calls as far as we can and ride about + to see the cherry blossoms, and I hope we + may see some of the famous tea houses. + Thus far we have seen no tea house at all, + and there is not one afternoon tea house + where ladies go in this city excepting the + new-fashioned department stores, and they + do not stand for anything different than + they do with us. This shows how little the + real ladies of Tokyo go out of their houses.</p> + + <p>The Sumida river is a big river gathering + up all the small streams from one side of + the mountains. It is full of junks and other + craft and is the center of much history, both + for Tokyo as a city and for the whole + country.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page105" title="105"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, April 4.</h2> + + <p>Ganjiro, the greatest actor from Osaka, + is acting here now, and the show was great. + He did the scene among other things they + did in New York under the name of “Bushido.†+ A dance by a fox who had taken the + form of a man was a wonderful thing. + There is no use in trying to describe it. It + was not just slow posturings, like the + other Japanese dances we have seen, nor + was it as wild as the Russian dancers; + he did it alone, no companion, male or + female. But it was as free as the Russian + and much more classic at the + same time. You will never realize what the + human hand and arm can do until you see + this. He put on a number of masks and + then acted or danced according to the type + of mask he had on. He can do an animal’s + motions without any clawing—as graceful + <a class="pagenum" id="page106" title="106"> </a>and lithe as a cat. He is a son of an old + man Ganjiro.</p> + + <p>Our last days here are rather crowded + and we aren’t going to get the things done + that should be done. Cherry blossoms are + at their height—another thing indescribable, + but if dogwood trees were bigger and the + blossoms were tinged with pink without + being pink it would give the effect more + than anything else I know. The indescribable + part is the tree full of blossoms without + leaves; of course you get that in the magnolias, + but they are coarse where the cherry + is delicate. We went to a museum to-day, + which is finer in some respects than the Imperial; + gods till you can’t rest, and wonderful + Chinese things, everything except paintings.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page107" title="107"> </a><em class="location">Tokyo</em>, April 8.</h2> + + <p>We are actually packing up and get away + to-morrow morning at 8:30—we travel all + day, the first part till four o’clock on the + fastest train in Japan. The ordinary trains + make about fifteen miles an hour, Japan + having unfortunately adopted narrow gauge + in early days and going on the well-known + principle of safety first. We have had various + and sundry experiences since writing, the + most interesting being on Sunday, when we + were taken into the country both to see the + cherry blossoms and the merry-makers; the + time is a kind of a carnival and mild saturnalia + based on bright clothes, and wigs, + and saké, about ninety per cent saké. + There were a few besides ourselves not intoxicated, + but not many. Everybody practiced + whatever English he knew on us, one + dressed-up fellow informing us “I Chrallie + <a class="pagenum" id="page108" title="108"> </a>Chaplin,†and he was as good an imitation + as most. Aside from one fight we saw no + rudeness and not much boisterousness, the + mental effect being apparently to make + them confidential and demonstrative. + Usually they are very reserved with one + another, but Sunday it looked as if they + were telling each other all their deepest + secrets and life ambitions. Our host of the + day laughed most benevolently all the time, + not excluding when a fellow dressed in + bright red woman’s clothes insisted on riding + on the running board. They get drunk + so seldom that it didn’t appeal to him so + much as a drunk as it did as a popular festival; + the people really were happy.</p> + + <p>There were miles of trees planted each + side of a canal that supplies Tokyo with + water, all kinds of trees and in all stages of + development, from no blossoms to full, no + leaf and beautiful little pink leaves. The + blossoms are dropping, it is almost a mild + snowfall, and yet the trees seem full.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page109" title="109"> </a>Yesterday we went to the theater again, + the Imperial, a party of ten filling two + boxes. We were taken behind the scenes + and shown the green rooms, etc., and introduced + to an actor and to his son, about + eleven, who appeared on the stage later and + did a very pretty dance. He had a teacher + in the room and was doing his Chinese writing + lesson, never looked up till he was + spoken to, about the handsomest and most + intelligent looking lad I have seen in Japan. + Acting is practically an hereditary profession + here. I doubt if an outsider not trained + from early childhood could possibly do the + acting anyway, and I don’t think the guild + would let him break in if he could, though + one man of British extraction has been quite + successful on the Japanese stage. We saw + some very interesting things yesterday, including + dances, and learned that they are + very anxious to come to America, but they + want a patron. If the scenes were selected + with great care to take those that have lots + <a class="pagenum" id="page110" title="110"> </a>of action and not so much talking, and the + libretto was carefully explained, they could + make a hit in New York at least.</p> + + <p>Our other blowout was the other evening + at a Japanese classic tea house, a part of a + Noh dance for entertainment and a twelve-course + meal or so. The most interesting + thing though is talking to people. On the + whole I think we have a chance to see people + who know Japan much better than most. + We haven’t been officialized and putting the + different things together I think we have as + good an acquaintance with the social conditions + as anybody would be likely to get + in eight weeks. An experienced journalist + could get it, so far as information is concerned, + in a few days, but I think things + have to be soaked in by cumulative impressions + to get the feel of the thing and the + background. When they told me first that + this was a great psychological moment, that + everything was critical and crucial, I didn’t + know what they meant, and I could hardly + <a class="pagenum" id="page111" title="111"> </a>put it in words now, any more than they + did, but I know inside of me. There are + few external signs of a change, but Japan + is nearly in the condition she was in during + the first years of contact and opening up of + things fifty or so years ago, so far as the + mental readiness for change is concerned, + and the next few years may see rapid social + changes.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page112" title="112"> </a><em class="location">Nara</em>, April 12.</h2> + + <p>Well, we have started on our journey and + have seen Japan for the first time, scenically + speaking, that is to say. The first day’s + ride from Tokyo to Nagoya was interesting, + but not particularly so except for Fuji, + which we saw off and on for several hours, + and on three sides. As sometimes it isn’t + visible, and we had a fine warm day, we had + good luck. Nagoya is where the best old + castle in Japan is, you may even in your benighted + country and estate have heard of + the two golden dolphins on top. The castle + is an imperial palace and it turned out that + you have to have a permit from Tokyo, but + we set out to try to get in, and as we had + met a nice young man at the <span class="keep_together">X——’s</span> in + Tokyo who came from Nara, we telephoned + him, and while we didn’t get in through him + (he said he could never get in himself under + <a class="pagenum" id="page113" title="113"> </a>any circumstances) he promptly asked us to + dinner. Then we were taken to the swellest + tea house in Nara and had another of those + elaborate dinners, on what he called the tea-istic + plan. We began with the tea ceremony + without the ceremony but with the powdered + tea, the bowl being prepared for each + one separately in succession. The Nara + cooking is better, we all thought, than the + Tokyo, the food being more savory and the + variety of flavors greater, an opinion which + pleased our host. Expressing some curiosity + about some four-inch trout which + seemed to have a sugar caramel coating, we + found that they were cooked in a kind of + liquor which deposited the sweetness, and + then we were presented with a bottle of the + drink known as Mirin, so now we are lugging + glassware. Then after the dinner he + said that he hoped that we would not think + him guilty of improper action, but that he + had invited the best samisen player and + singer in Nagoya, and also some dancers. + <a class="pagenum" id="page114" title="114"> </a>In other words, some geishas were introduced + and sang, played and danced before + King David. There are all grades from + those comparable to chorus girls at Jack’s to + high grade actresses, and these were of the + upper kind. He said he wished us to see + something of true Japan which few foreigners + saw, this referring to the restaurant + as well as the dancing. They won’t receive + anybody who isn’t an old client or friend + of one of these high toned places. But the + ladies of the party thought he was especially + interested in one of the girls. Personally I + think the dancing and music are much more + interesting than they are reported to be in + the guide books.</p> + + <p>The next day we went to the primitive + Ise shrines, arriving cross and hungry at + about two, but bound to get the pilgrimage + over, especially as it wasn’t good weather. + Yamada, where the sacred shrines are, is a + very beautiful place, with wooded hills and + little streams. The trees are largely cryptomerias, + <a class="pagenum" id="page115" title="115"> </a>which are evidently some relative + of the California redwoods, and while not + nearly as tall, make much the same effect. + It is a darling spot, filled with the usual + thousands of carpet bagger (literally the old + Brussel carpet bags) pilgrims. As previously + reported I toted a borrowed frock + coat and stovepipe hat. Our guide said + special clothing was not needed for the + ladies. I put on my war paint, and the chief + priest having been written from Tokyo of + our impending arrival, an hour had been + set. At the outermost gate, the Torii, the + ceremony of purification, took place. We + had water poured out on our hands out of + a little ceremonial cup and basin and then + the priest sprinkled salt on us; nobody else + had this but us. Then when we got to the + fence gate, we were told that the ladies not + having “visiting dresses,†whatever they are, + couldn’t go inside, but that I should be + treated as of the same rank as an Imperial + professor and allowed to go. I forgot to + <a class="pagenum" id="page116" title="116"> </a>say that we had a gendarme in front of us + to shoo the vulgar herd out of our way. + Then we marched slowly in behind the + priest, on stones brought from the seaside, + through a picket fence to designated spots + near the next fence, I being allowed nearer + to the gate than our Japanese guide; + and we worshiped, that is bowed. I got + my bow over disgracefully quick, but I + think our Japanese conductor stood at least + fifteen minutes.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page117" title="117"> </a><em class="location">Kyoto</em>, April 15.</h2> + + <p>Here we are in the Florence of Japan, + and even more to see if possible than in + Italy. We have had a rainy day to-day, + which is perhaps a good beginning for a + week of constant sightseeing. This morning + we spent in Yamanaka’s—the most + beautiful shop I ever saw, composed of the + finest Japanese rooms of the finest proportions + and filled with the most beautiful art + specimens of all kinds. But the kinds are + properly assorted in true Japanese fashion. + I bought a red brocade. It is a panel, old + red with figures of gold and some dark blue, + peonies and birds. It is what the Buddhist + priests wear over the left arm in procession. + We have the certificate that it is over a hundred + years old. The panel is about five feet + long and one wide, the strips which compose + it are four in number, sewed in seams, which + <a class="pagenum" id="page118" title="118"> </a>turn the corners in mortise fashion, and yet + they all match perfectly. Most of these + strips are woven in these ribbons and sewed + together. I got a second one which is purple + with splendid big birds and peonies + again. I like the peony in brocade much + better than the chrysanthemum or the + smaller flowers. Some fine ones with pomegranates + are tempting, but I did not buy the + most beautiful on account of the prospects + of spending money better in China. I also + bought a pretty tea set which I have here + in my room—it cost 30 sen, which means + fifteen cents for teapot and five cups, gray + pottery with blue decorations. There are + many cheaper ones that are pretty too. Tomorrow + we go to the original temple where + the tea ceremony originated and are to participate + in the tea ceremony, which the high + priest will perform for us. You better get + a guide book and read about the temples of + Kyoto, as they are too numerous to tell + about in letters. We have the municipal car + <a class="pagenum" id="page119" title="119"> </a>for all these occasions. Good thing we do, + for Kyoto has shrunk like a nut in its shell + since the days of its ancient capital size and + the distances between temples are enormous. + Next day we go to the Imperial Palaces, + and so go on and on getting fatter and + fatter.</p> + + <p>The weather and the spring time are + superb. Cherry blossoms were gone when + we got here, but the young leaves of the + maples are lovely green or red and the whole + earth is paradise now. The hills are nearer + than in Florence, the mountains higher, so + that Kyoto has every natural beauty. We + shall only have a week here and then go to + Osaka, where the puppet theater is and + where there is a school of drama, of which + Ganjiro is the leader. It is the doll theater + we want to see, because that is the origin of + all acting in Japan. Many of the conventions + of the theater are based on the movements + of the puppets.</p> + + <p>Kyoto in many respects is the most lovely + <a class="pagenum" id="page120" title="120"> </a>thing the world has to show, such a combination + of nature and art as one dreams of. + These wonderful temples of enormous size, + of natural wood filled with paintings and + sculpture of an ancient and unknown kind, + fascinate one to the point of feeling there + must be many more worlds when such multiplicity + of ideas and feelings can exist on + a single planet, and we live unconscious of + the whole of it or even of any part of its + extent. The gardens we have seen to-day + are the old Japan unchanged since they + were made a thousand years ago, when they + took the ancient ideas of China and India + for models. The temples of Tokyo seem + like shabby relics of a worn-out era, but + here the perfection of their art remains and + is kept intact. The landscape of the first + Buddhist monastery, where the tea ceremony + originated, has the same rivers and + islands and little piles of sand which were + placed in the beginning, all in miniature, + and planted with miniature trees, all imitations + <a class="pagenum" id="page121" title="121"> </a>of real scenes in China when China was + the land of culture. Now they say even the + originals are destroyed in China, which is + so out of repair that it depresses every one + who sees it. Fifty years ago they advertised + for sale here in Nara, a lovely pagoda five + stories high for fifty yen. It is obviously + necessary for some American millionaire to + buy up the massive gates and pagodas and + temples of China in order to redeem them + from complete ruin. The Japanese are the + one people who have waked up in time to + the value of these historic things, and several + of the temples have been rebuilt before the + old material was so rotted as to make them + hopeless. Wood is a magnificent material + when it is used in such massive structures + as it is here. The biggest bell in the world, + twelve feet high, is hung on a great tree + trunk in a belfry with a curled-up roof of + flower-like proportions, first having been + hauled to the top of the high hill. We shall + hear it boom next Saturday. We heard the + <a class="pagenum" id="page122" title="122"> </a>one in Nara, the deepest thing I ever + thought to hear, nine feet high. They are + beautiful bronze and they are very mellow + and melodious and reach to the center of + whatever the center of your being may be + and leave you to hope the greater unknown + of the judgment day may be a call like that + sound.</p> + + <p>We had lunch with <span class="keep_together">Miss D——.</span> She tells + stories about the efforts of the Japanese + girls to get an education that make you + want to sell your earrings, even if you have + none, in order to give the money to these + idealists. They are as much pioneers as our + forebears who chopped down the trees, but + they can’t get at a tree to chop. She says + she wants me to go back to America and to + go to every Congregational church there + and tell them they must send money here to + give education to the people.</p> + + <p>One day we have the mayor’s car to go + about in and the next day the University + hires a car for us and we indulge ourselves + <a class="pagenum" id="page123" title="123"> </a>in all kinds of doings we do not deserve and + sometimes wonder if we shall have to commit + suicide after it ends in order to condone + the point of honor. Certainly these people + have a nobility of character which entitles + them to race equality.</p> + + <p>I want to find a nice quiet place to stay + and come back and see the sights at greater + length. The paintings on the walls are + mostly ruined, but the kakemonas and the + screens and the makemonas, those are wonderful + and I am glad to say that we have + got over seeing them as grotesque, and we + feel their beauty. When once you see that + the trees in the ground are real and that + they look just as the trees in the pictures + have always looked, then you begin to appreciate + both nature and human nature as + depicted.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page124" title="124"> </a><em class="location">Kyoto</em>, April 15.</h2> + + <p>To-day is rainy and we haven’t done + much. We got here yesterday noon. The + hotel is on the side of a hill with wonderful + views, and is pretty good, though the one + at Nara which is run by the Imperial Railway + System is the only first-class one we + have seen so far. In the afternoon the University + sent a car and we took an auto ride + into the suburbs to a famous cherry place—it + was too late for blossoms, but the river + and hills and woods were beautiful, and we + saw the usual large crowd enjoying life. It + is really wonderful the way the people go + out, all classes, and the amount of pleasure + they get out of doors and in the tea houses. + I have never been anywhere where every + day seemed so much of a holiday as in Japan—there + is still saké in evidence but not so + much.</p> + + <p>This month a special geisha dance is + given here at a theater connected with a + <a class="pagenum" id="page125" title="125"> </a>training school; the dance lasts an hour and + is repeated four or five consecutive hours. + We went last night; the dancing is much + more mechanical posturing than the theater + dancing, or than the little geisha dance we + saw at Nara, but the color combinations and + the way they handled the scenery were wonderful. + There were eight very different + scenes and it didn’t take more than a minute + to make any change. Once a curtain was + simply drawn down through a trap door, + another time what had looked like a canvas + mat in front of the curtain was pulled up + and it turned out to be painted on one side. + But they had a different method every time.</p> + + <p>The mayor has invited me to speak to the + teachers Saturday afternoon, and afterwards + we are invited by the municipality to + a Japanese dinner. They are also putting + the city auto—the only one apparently—at + our disposal, when they aren’t using it, and + have arranged to take us to a porcelain and + a weaving factory next Monday. This town + <a class="pagenum" id="page126" title="126"> </a>is the headquarters of Japan for artistic + production, ancient and modern. The University + authorities also telephoned to Tokyo + and got permission for us to visit the palaces + here, but they are said not to be equal to + the Nagoya ones which we missed. While + at Nara we spent most of our time at the + Horiuji temples, some miles out. I won’t + do the encyclopedia act except to say that + they are the headquarters of the introduction + of Buddhism into Japan thirteen hundred + years ago, which meant civilization, + especially art, and have the wall frescoes, + unfortunately faint, of that period, and lots + of sculpture; this means wood carving, as of + course there is no marble here. Well, it + happened that it was the birthday of Prince + Shotoku, who was the gentleman responsible + for the aforesaid introduction, and of + whom there are many statues, age of two, + twelve and sixteen being favorites; his piety + was precocious. Consequently, everything + was wide open. Every kind of peep show + <a class="pagenum" id="page127" title="127"> </a>and stall, and more than the usual hundreds + of pilgrims who combine pleasure with piety + in a way that beats even the Italian peasants; + when they have money here they spend it; + tightwadism is not a Japanese vice. Well, + we were taken into the garden of the chief + priest to eat our luncheon; of course, he + was very busy, but greeted us in gorgeous + robes and then sent out tea and rice cakes. + The contrast between this lovely little + garden and the drums and barkers just beyond + the walls and the wonderful old artistic + shrines beyond the barkers and ham and + egg row was as interesting as anything in + Japan.</p> + + <p>You may remember <span class="keep_together">Miss E——</span> is rather + tall for an American woman, even. Mamma + is something of an object to the country people, + but <span class="keep_together">Miss E——</span> is a spectacle. Curiosity + is the only emotion the Japanese are not + taught to conceal apparently. They gather + around in scores, literally. I don’t know + how many times I have seen parents make + <a class="pagenum" id="page128" title="128"> </a>sure the children didn’t miss the show. + Several times I have seen people walk + slowly and solemnly all the way around us + to make sure they missed nothing. No + rudeness ever, just plain curiosity. As we + were going to the museum after breakfast, + a few of those children, girls, appeared and + bowed. First I knew one of them had hold + of each of my hands, and went with us as far + as the museum—girls of nine or ten. It was + touching to see their friendliness, especially + one evidently rather poor, who would look + up at me and laugh, and then squeeze my + hand and press it against herself, and then + laugh with delight again. I haven’t been + able to discover when it ceases to be proper + for children to be natural. Sunday morning + some soldiers were going off to Manchuria—or + Korea—and before eight we heard the + patter of the clogs down the street and some + hundred of boys and girls were marching + down to the station with their teachers; the + same thing next morning, for the soldiers.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page129" title="129"> </a><em class="location">Kyoto</em>, April 19.</h2> + + <p>We have just come from another Geisha + party, given by the mayor and about fifteen + of the other officers of the city. Papa is + quite stuck up because they say it is the + first time the city of Kyoto ever entertained + a scholar in that fashion. But if he is stuck + up what should I be when a woman appears + for the first time in history at a men’s carouse + in Japan? The Geisha girls are all + the way from eleven years old to something + like fifty. One of the older ones is the best + dancer in the city, and she gave us one of + the wonderful pantomime dances that so + fascinate one here. She has been in jail for + her political activities, said activities consisting + in the active distribution of funds in + order to elect someone she favored. It is + against the law for a woman to take any + part in politics here. Like all the older + women of that class that I have seen she has + <a class="pagenum" id="page130" title="130"> </a>a sad look when her face is at rest. But + they all talk and entertain so busily that the + sadness is not seen by the men. They are a + very cultivated lot of women so far as we + have seen them; of course we see only the + best. They talk with the composure of a + duchess and the good nature of a child. It + is a rare combination. They are very curious + about us and ask all sorts of questions. + One girl of seventeen said she loved babies + and how many did I have? When I told + her five she was delighted. She had a rosebud + mouth just like the old prints and + danced with the old print postures. The + girls pass the drinks and the rice which always + comes at the end of such feasts. The + little eleven-year-old gave a dance called + “Climbing Fuji.†Wonderful flat-footed + movements that make you feel exactly as if + you were climbing with her. In the middle + part she puts on a mask which is puffy in + the cheeks, and then she wipes the perspiration + and washes her little face and fans herself + <a class="pagenum" id="page131" title="131"> </a>and goes on again, flatfooted. All the + motions are most elegant and graceful and + subtle and serpentine, never an abrupt or + sudden gesture, and never quite literal in + any sense. After the dance was finished + she came and sat by me and her skin was + hot as if she had a fever. All the men were + older and I must say they treated her very + nicely.</p> + + <p>This is the way those feasts go. We + enter the restaurant in stocking feet, and + are usually shown to a small room where + we kneel on the cushions and take tea while + waiting for all the guests to assemble. + About six this time, we were shown to the + large room, which is always surrounded by + gold screens and shoji, which slide back before + the windows. Cushions are placed + about three feet apart on three sides of the + long and beautifully shaped room. In the + middle of one side they are piled up so the + foreign guests of honor may sit instead of + kneeling Japanese fashion. We place ourselves + <a class="pagenum" id="page132" title="132"> </a>after having all the guests one after + another brought up. We shake hands because + their bows are rather impossible and + they have adapted themselves to our way. + Then we all squat again. Then the pretty + waitresses come slithering across the floor, + each with a tiny table in her hands. The + first is for Papa, the second for me, then + the mayor, and so on. The mayor is down + at the end of the line. After each one has + his table before him the mayor comes to the + center of the hollow square and makes a + little speech of welcome. He always tells + you how sorry he is he has such a poor entertainment + and that he could not do better + for these distinguished guests who do him + so much honor by coming, and how this is + the first time the city has ever honored a + foreign scholar by this kind of entertainment. + Then Papa does his best to make a + reply, and after he sits down we lift the + cover of a lovely lacquer soup bowl and lift + the chop sticks. You take a drink of soup, + <a class="pagenum" id="page133" title="133"> </a>lift a thin slippery slice of raw fish from its + little dish, dip it in the sauce and put it in + your mouth. To-night this first soup is a + rich and rare green turtle, delicious. So + you drink it all and take a little fish, but + our guide warns us not to take too much + raw fish as we are not accustomed it. By + this time another tray of pretty lacquer is + put beside you on the floor and on it is a + tiny tray or platter of lacquer on which are + placed two little fish browned to perfection, + and trimmed with two little cakes of egg + and powdered fish, very nicely rolled in + cherry leaves. Every dish is a work of art + in its arrangement. These two fish are the + favorite of the last emperor, and you do not + blame him. They are cooked in mirin, a + kind of sweet liquor made from saké, and + you eat all you can pick off the bones with + your hashi. As soon as this tray is in place + you see a lovely little girl with her long, + bright-colored kimona on the floor around + her, and she has in her hand a blue and + <a class="pagenum" id="page134" title="134"> </a>white china bottle placed in a tiny lacquer + coaster, and you know the feast is really + under way. She is followed by the older + girls, and little by little one at a time and + quite gradually the dancing girls come in + and bow to the floor while they pour out the + saké. They laugh at the ways of the foreigners + who always forget it is the part of + the guest to hold out his tiny cup for the + poison. Everybody drinks to the health of + everybody else and there stops my saké, but + the Japanese drink on and on, one cup at + a sip and the hand reaching out for more. + Talk gets livelier, the girls take more part + in it. They are said by some to be the only + interesting women in Japan. At any rate, + no wives are ever there but me, and the girls + are beautifully cultured, moving at the + slightest suggestion of voice or gesture and + always seeing quickly and very pleasantly + what each one wants. As soon as they see + we do not drink saké they bring many + bottles of mineral water for us. Then they + <a class="pagenum" id="page135" title="135"> </a>do their beautiful dances. Two, about seventeen + years old, did one called “Twilight + on the east hill of Kyoto.†In Nagoya, + in Tokyo, or wherever you are, the theme + is always some natural event connected with + the nature near by. Always simple and + classic. Then the famous old dancer did a + subtle thing called “The nurse putting the + child to sleep.†That is another favorite + theme. This was lovely, but sometimes too + subtle for us to grasp all the movements. + These girls all dress in dark colors like the + ladies, only with the difference prescribed + by the profession, such as the low neck in + the back and the full length of the kimona + on the floor like a wave around her. With + the young ones the obi is different, being + tied to drop down on the floor in a long bow. + The young ones also have the bright hair + ornaments and the very long sleeves. But + so do other young girls wear the long sleeves + for company dress.</p> + + <p>There are other courses of fish; one of + <a class="pagenum" id="page136" title="136"> </a>four strawberries, two slices of orange, some + mint jelly cut in cubes, and sweetened + bamboo slices in the middle of the list. Then + more fish courses, many of them bright-colored + shell fish which are always rather + tough. Then a very nice mixture of sour + cucumber salad and little pieces of lobster + or crab, very nice and any sour thing is + good with these many courses of fish. At + the end bowls of rice, which is brought in + in a big lacquer dish with a cover looking + some like a small barrel. This is put into + bowls by one of the older dancers and + handed about by the younger ones who get + up and down from their kneeling posture + by just lifting themselves as if they had no + weight, on their toes. Many of the Japanese + take the regulation three bowls full of rice, + and eat it very fast. I must say their rice + is delicious, but I cannot get away with + more than one bowl, partly because I cannot + gobble. Then, for the last, your bowl + is filled with tea.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page137" title="137"> </a>All this time the gentlemen from the + other parts of the room are kneeling one + at a time before you asking you if you like + the cherry dance and what your first impressions + of Japan were, and all such talk, + and you have become intimate friends with + the dancers as well, maybe with no common + language except “thank you†and “very + nice†and “good-bye,†and constant smiles + and interpretations now and then from + others who know a very little English. One + thing no one expects is for a foreigner to + know a word of Japanese. Therefore, when + you pop out an awkward word or two, you + are applauded by laughter and compliments + on your good pronunciation. To-night we + had the very tiniest of green peppers cooked + as a vegetable with one of the dishes. That + was good as it had flavor; three of them + about as big as a hairpin were served in the + dish. You always get tiny portions and are + usually warned not to eat too much at the + first part of the meal. In the tea-dinner the + <a class="pagenum" id="page138" title="138"> </a>rice comes along at the beginning so it can + be eaten with the fish, and that is an agreeable + variety though you are told not to eat + too much of it as there are other courses to + follow. I forgot to say there is always a + course in the middle which is a hot custard + made with broth instead of milk and seasoned + with vegetables. That is good, too. + In fact, I have become quite fond of this + fish food.</p> + + <p>When we got in the motor car at the gate + of the restaurant, all the gay little dancers + were standing there in the rain waving their + hands in American fashion till we went out + of sight. Then I suppose the tired little + things went back and danced for more men. + We were home at 8:30. All the dinners + seem to be early here in Japan, except what + are called the foreign ones and they follow + our hours as well as our style.</p> + + <p>I must tell you the best tea in Japan + grows here at a place nearby called Uji. + We had that tea after a lecture in the city + <a class="pagenum" id="page139" title="139"> </a>hall. It is strong to the danger point, and + has a flavor unlike anything else. An acid + like lemon and no bitter at all; leaves a + smooth pleasant taste something like dry + sherry, and is generally delicious. It costs + at least ten yen a pound here, but I shall + get some to take home. Very good ordinary + tea here costs fifteen sen a pound, seven + and a half cents.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page140" title="140"> </a><em class="location">Kyoto</em>, April 22.</h2> + + <p>To-day we were taken visiting schools—first + a Boys’ High school, then an elementary + school which had an American flag + along with the Japanese over the door in + our honor, and which was awfully nice. + The children did lots of cunning stunts for + us, one little kid beating the Japanese + drum for their rhythmic marching, which + they are good at. Then a textile school for + textile design, weaving and dyeing, which + for some unexplained reason was bad and + poorly attended. The machines were old, + German and out of date. In fact, it all + looked as if it had been worked off on them + second hand by some Germans who didn’t + want them ever to amount to anything. All + of the best work here is still done by hand, + although they have good electric power developed + from the water they have. Then we + <a class="pagenum" id="page141" title="141"> </a>went to a Girls’ High School, combined + with a college for girls, preparing teachers + for the regular high schools. The élite of + Kyoto go there, and it, like the other schools, + was very nice and good. They specialize in + domestic science and we ate a fine Japanese + lunch they had prepared. All this, like most + our other trips, in the mayor’s car.</p> + + <p>This is really a country where the scholar + is looked up to and not down upon. In + virtue of having lectured at the Imperial + University I am “Your Excellency†officially. + Osaka city does not wish to be outdone + by Kyoto, so I am to lecture to the + teachers there, and the city is to provide + for us at the hotel, and the mayor to give + us a banquet there. Of course, Mamma is + the only woman present, as it would not + occur to them to invite their own wives. + Foreign women are expected, however, to + do strange things, and they are very polite + to them. The geisha women seem to be + about the only ones who have an all-around + <a class="pagenum" id="page142" title="142"> </a>education—not of the book type, but in the + sense of knowing about things and being + able and willing to talk—and I think the + men go to these banquets and talk to them + because they are tired of their too obeyful + wives and their overdocility. One woman + at the banquet we went to was known as + the Singing Butterfly, and has the name + Constitution as a nickname, because of her + supposed interest in politics, especially on + the liberal side. When we heard that she + had been in prison because of her interest in + politics, we sat up and took notice, but it + turned out that it was for bribing voters + to vote for a man she was interested in. But + she is a local celebrity all right, and her stay + in prison had evidently added to her interest + and prestige.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page143" title="143"> </a>April 28, on the <i class="shipname">Kumano Maru</i>.<br /> + En Route to China.</h2> + + <p>The lecture yesterday was a success, going + off rather better than the others. It was + in a school hall and they are always beautiful + rooms. I was entertained during its + two hours of duration by watching a splendid + pink azalea and a pine on either side + of the desk. They are each about five feet + high and of the most lovely shape, and there + were about a thousand blossoms on this + azalea. We know but very little about + dwarfed trees and shrubs in our country as + the specimens we see are very small ones + and inferior in shape and interest to those + we see here. They are everywhere, each + little shop has in the midst of its mess of + second hand or cheap new things a charming + little peach or plum, pine, azalea, or + redberry. In a hot house we saw a tree + <a class="pagenum" id="page144" title="144"> </a>that had two plums on it, and we frequently + see tiny orange trees covered with fruit. + The white peach is one of the loveliest + things in the world, double blossoms like + roses, and is entirely artificially produced.</p> + + <p>The smoke has lifted and we are seeing + the hills of the shore very well. On the + other side of the ship we see the Island + of Awaji, so we are now between the two + islands and it is much like the Thousand + Islands in the St. Lawrence River. I suppose + this is the entrance to the Inland Sea. + It is partly clear and the land is so close it + is easy to see. There are many Japanese + ladies on board with their husbands and + they seem to enjoy it. With their faces + white with rice powder and their purple + color in their haoris they are pretty, and + especially here where they do not feel the + necessity of covering the obi with haori so + they look less humpbacked than in fashionable + Tokyo. Their footwear I love, only, + of course, it holds them still more to the + <a class="pagenum" id="page145" title="145"> </a>conventional position as it leaves the legs + bare above the ankle, and they must walk + so as not to show that as well as not to disturb + the lap of the kimona down the front. + But the tabi feel like bare feet on account + of the division of the big toe from the other + toes, and as soon as you put them on you + feel as if the toes were really made to use, + and the foot clings as you walk. I am taking + a set of cotton kimonas to China so as + to have them to wear in my room with the + tabi on hot days. Without the obi the dress + becomes quite cool if made of thin material. + The thin silk, which is practically + transparent, is one of the most beautiful + things in Japanese weaving, as it is still firm + enough to keep its shape and wear for years.</p> + + <p>The dress of the geisha is very like the + ceremonial dress of the lady, especially + when black with decorations at the bottom. + The little girls are very touching, many of + them are not over eight or nine, and they + wear the elaborate dress and coiffure which + <a class="pagenum" id="page146" title="146"> </a>is theirs for the part. In cherry season it + is bright peacock blue. In Osaka the decorations + were butterflies in colors and gold. + The samisen players are older and they + dress more plainly in black or plain blue, + the drum players are young and gay colored. + The teeth of the little girls are so bad that + I asked if they blackened them. The dances + are lovely poetical things with themes of the + most delicate subjects. There is never anything + coarse either in the thought or the + execution. They say the geisha is the most + unselfish person in the world. Perhaps that + might be said for all the women. They do + their hard work and keep themselves out + of sight to a degree that shows the pain + there must be in it. When I was asked what + I thought of them I answered that I thought + Japanese women were not appreciated for + what they did. They said, “No, that is not + so, we do not show it but we appreciate them + in our hearts.â€</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page147" title="147"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, May 1.</h2> + + <p>We have slept one night in China, but + we haven’t any first impressions, because + China hasn’t revealed itself to our eyes as + yet. We compared Shanghai to Detroit, + Michigan, and except that there is less coal + smoke, the description hits it off. This is + said to be literally an international city, but + I haven’t learned yet just what the technique + is; every country seems to have its + own post office though, and its own front-door + yard, and when we were given a little + auto ride yesterday, we found that the car + couldn’t go into Chinatown because it had + no license for that district.</p> + + <p>I shall be interested to find out whether + in this really old country they talk about + “ages eternal†as freely as they do in Japan; + the authentic history of the latter begins + about 500 <span class="smaller">A.D.</span>, their mythical history 500 + <a class="pagenum" id="page148" title="148"> </a><em class="location">B.C.</em>, but still it is a country which has endured + during myriads of ages. In spite of + the fact that they kept the emperors shut + up for a thousand years, and killed them + off and changed them about with great ease + and complacency, the children are all + taught, and they repeat in books for foreigners, + that the rule of Japan has been + absolutely unbroken. Of course, they get + to believing these things themselves, not + exactly intellectually but emotionally and + practically, and it would be worth any + teacher’s position for him to question any + of their patriotic legends in print. However, + they say that in their oral lectures, the + professors of history of the universities + criticise these legends. In the higher elementary + school we visited in Osaka, we saw + five classes in history and ethics, in each of + which the Emperor was under discussion—sometimes + <em>the</em> Emperor and what he had + done for the country, and sometimes <em>an</em> + Emperor in particular. Apparently this + <a class="pagenum" id="page149" title="149"> </a>religion has been somewhat of a necessity, + as the country was so divided and split up, + they had practically nothing else to unite + on—the Emperor became a kind of symbol + of united and modern Japan. But this worship + is going to be an Old Man of the Sea + on their backs. They say the elementary + school teachers are about the most fanatical + patriots of the country. More than one has + been burned or allowed the children to be + burned while he rescued the portrait of the + Emperor when there was a fire. They must + take it out in patriotism in lieu of salary; + they don’t get a living wage, now that the + cost of living has gone up.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page150" title="150"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, May 2.</h2> + + <p>We have been taken in hand by a reception + committee of several Chinese gentlemen, + mostly returned American students. + The “returned student†is a definite category + here, and if and when China gets on + its feet, the American university will have + a fair share of the glory to its credit. They + took us to see a Chinese cotton spinning and + weaving factory. There is not even the + pretense at labor laws here that there is in + Japan. Children six years of age are employed, + not many though, and the wages of + the operatives in the spinning department, + mainly women, is thirty cents a day, at the + highest thirty-two cents Mex. In the weaving + department they have piece work and + get up to forty cents.</p> + + <p>I will tell you something of what we had + to eat in one small afternoon. First, lunch + of all courses here at the hotel. Then we + <a class="pagenum" id="page151" title="151"> </a>went to the newspaper where we had tea + and cake at about four. From there to the + house of the daughter of a leading statesman + of the Manchus, she being a lady of + small feet and ten children, who has offered + a prize for the best essay on the ways to + stop concubinage, which they call the whole + system of plural marriage. They say it is + quite unchanged among the rich. There we + were given a tea of a rare sort, unknown in + our experience. Two kinds of meat pies + which are made in the form of little cakes + and quite peculiar in taste, delicious; also + cake. Then after we went to the restaurant + where we were to have dinner. First we + got into the wrong hotel and there, while + we were waiting, they gave us tea. We + were struck by the fact that they asked for + nothing when we left, and thanked us for + coming to the wrong place. Then we went + to the right hotel across the street from the + first. They called it the corner of Broadway + and 42nd Street, and it is that. There + <a class="pagenum" id="page152" title="152"> </a>is a big roof garden besides the hotels, and + they are both run by the Department stores + which have their places underneath. It may + be a sad commentary on the human character + that one can eat more than one can + remember, but that is what we did last + night. First of all we went into the room + which was all Chinese furniture; very small + round table in the middle and the rows of + stools along one side for the singing girls, + who do not dance here. Those stools were + not used, as all the young Chinese are + ashamed of that institution and want to + get rid of it. On a side table were almonds + shelled, nice little ones, different from ours + and very sweet. Beside them were dried + watermelon seeds which were hard to crack + and so I did not taste them. All the + Chinese nibbled them with relish. Two + ladies came, both of them had been in New + York to study. All these people speak and + understand English in earnest. On the + table were little pieces of sliced ham, the + <a class="pagenum" id="page153" title="153"> </a>famous preserved eggs which taste like hard-boiled + eggs and look like dark-colored + jelly, and little dishes of sweets, shrimps, + etc. To these we helped ourselves with the + chop sticks, though they insisted on giving + us little plates on which they spooned out + some of each. Then followed such a feast + as we had never experienced, the boys taking + off one dish after another and replacing + them with others in the center of the table, + to which we helped ourselves. There was + no special attempt at display of fine dishes + such as you might have expected with such + cooking and such expense, and such as + would have happened in Japan. We had + chicken and duck and pigeon and veal and + pigeon eggs and soup and fish and little + oysters that grow in the ground (very delicious + and delicate) and nice little vegetables + and bamboo sprouts mixed in with + the others, and we had shrimps cooked, and + shark’s fin and bird’s nest (this has no taste + at all and is a sort of very delicate soup, + <a class="pagenum" id="page154" title="154"> </a>but costs a fortune and that is its real reason + for being). It is gelatine which almost all + dissolves in the cooking. We had many + more things than these, and the boy in a + dirty white coat and an old cap on his head + passing round the hot perfumed wet towels + every few courses, and for dessert we had + little cakes made of bean paste filled up + with almond paste and other sweets, all very + elaborately made, and works of art to look + at, but with too little taste to appeal much + to us; then we had fruits, bananas and + apples and pears, cut up in pieces, each with + a toothpick in it so it can be eaten easily. + Then we had a soup made of fish’s stomach, + or air sac. Then we had a pudding of the + most delicious sort imaginable, made of a + mold of rice filled in with eight different + symbolic things that I don’t know anything + about, but they don’t cut much part in the + taste. In serving this dish we were first + given a little bowl half full of a sauce thickened + and looking like a milk sauce. It was + <a class="pagenum" id="page155" title="155"> </a>really made of powdered almonds. Into + this you put the pudding, and it is so good + that I regretted all that had gone before, + and I am going to learn how to make it.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page156" title="156"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, May 3.</h2> + + <p>Some one told us when we were on the + boat that the Japanese cared everything for + what people thought of them, and the + Chinese cared nothing. Making comparisons + is a favorite, if dangerous, indoor sport. + The Chinese are noisy, not to say boisterous, + easy-going and dirty—and quite human + in general effect. They are much bigger + than the Japanese, and frequently very + handsome from any point of view. The + most surprising thing is the number of those + who look not merely intelligent but intellectual + among the laborers, such as some of + the hotel waiters and attendants. Our + waiter is a rather feminine, ultra refined + type, and might be a poet. I noticed quite + a number of the same Latin quarter Paris + type of artists among the teachers whom I + addressed to-day. The Japanese impressions + <a class="pagenum" id="page157" title="157"> </a>are gradually sinking into perspective + with distance, and it is easy to see that the + same qualities that make them admirable + are also the ones that irritate you. That + they should have made what they have out + of that little and mountainous island is one + of the wonders of the world, but everything + in themselves is a little overmade, there + seems to be a rule for everything, and admiring + their artistic effects one also sees how + near art and the artificial are together. So + it is something of a relaxation to get among + the easy-going once more. Their slouchiness, + however, will in the end get on one’s + nerves quite as much as the “eternal†attention + of the Japanese. One more generalization + borrowed from one of our Chinese + friends here, and I’m done. “The East + economizes space and the West timeâ€â€”that + also is much truer than most epigrams.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page158" title="158"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, May 4.</h2> + + <p>I have seen a Chinese lady, small feet and + all. We took dinner with her. She did not + come into the room until after dinner was + over, having been in the kitchen cooking it + while the servant brought things in. She + has one of those placid faces which are + round and plump and quite beautiful in a + way, a pretty complexion, and of course a + slow, rocking, hobbling way of walking. + Yesterday after the lecture we went there + again and she showed us all over her flat. + It is well kept, with not many conveniences + from our point of view, but I think it is + regarded as quite modern here. It has a + staircase, and a little roof where they dry + clothes or sit. The bath is a tin tub, warmed + by carrying water from the little stove like + our little laundry stoves. It has an outlet + pipe to the ground, no sewers as usual in + <a class="pagenum" id="page159" title="159"> </a>the Orient. The kitchen has a little stove + of iron set up on boxes and they burn small + pieces of wood. It has three compartments, + two big shallow iron pots for roasting and + boiling and a deep one in the middle for + keeping the hot water for tea. Only two + fires are needed as the heat from the two + end fires does for the water in the middle.</p> + + <p>There is no doubt that the Chinese are a + sociable people if given a chance. Of course, + men like the husband of our hostess are the + extreme of ability and advanced ideas here. + But it is remarkable that he shows us things + as they are. When we visited schools he + did not arrange in advance because he did + not want us to see a fixed up program. + When we went out to lunch he took us to + a Chinese place where no foreigners ever go.</p> + + <p>Yesterday we went to a department store + to buy some gloves and garters. Gloves + were Keyser’s, imported, so were the + stockings, so were the garters and suspenders, + etc. The gloves were from $1 to + <a class="pagenum" id="page160" title="160"> </a>$1.60 and the suspenders were a dollar. I + bought some silk, sixteen inches wide, for + fifty cents a yard. The store was messy + and the floors dirty, but it is a popular place + for the Chinese. We paid three dollars for + a book marked 1sh. 6p. in England, and + everything here is like that. Gloves and + stockings are made in Japan, and good + and cheap there; fine silken stockings $1.60 + a pair. But still the Chinese do not buy + of them, but from America. We have + visited a cotton mill. The Chinese cotton + and silk are now inferior, owing to lack of + scientific production and of proper care of + seed. In weaving, they sometimes mix their + cotton with ours.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page161" title="161"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, Monday, May 12.</h2> + + <p>The Peking tempest seems to have subsided + for the present, the Chancellor still + holding the fort, and the students being released. + The subsidized press said this was + due in part to the request of the Japanese + that the school-boy pranks be looked upon + indulgently. According to the papers, the + Japanese boycott is spreading, but the ones + we see doubt if the people will hold out long + enough—meanwhile Japanese money is refused + here.</p> + + <p>The East is an example of what masculine + civilization can be and do. The trouble + I should say is that the discussions have + been confined to the subjection of the + women as if that were a thing affecting the + women only. It is my conviction that not + merely the domestic and educational backwardness + <a class="pagenum" id="page162" title="162"> </a>of China, but the increasing physical + degeneration and the universal political + corruption and lack of public spirit, which + make China such an easy mark, is the result + of the condition of women. There is the + same corruption in Japan only it is organized; + there seems to be an alliance between + two groups of big capitalists and the two + leading political “parties.†There the very + great public spirit is nationalistic rather + than social, that is, it is patriotism rather + than public spirit as we understand it. So + while Japan is strong where China is weak, + there are corresponding defects there because + of the submission of women—and the + time will come when the hidden weakness + will break Japan down. Here are two items + from the Chinese side. A missionary spoke + to Christian Chinese about spending the + time Sunday, making chiefly the point that + it was a good time for family reunions and + family readings, conversation and the like. + One of them said that they would be bored + <a class="pagenum" id="page163" title="163"> </a>to death if they had to spend the whole day + with their wives. Then we are told that the + rich women—who have of course much less + liberty in getting out than the poorer class + women—spend their time among themselves + gambling. It is universally believed that + the attempt to support a number of wives + extravagantly is one of the chief sources of + political corruption. On the other hand, at + one of the political protest meetings in + Peking a committee of twelve was appointed + to go to the officials and four of + them were women. In Japan women are + forbidden to attend any meetings where + politics are discussed, and the law is strictly + enforced. There are many more Chinese + women studying in America than there are + Japanese—in part, perhaps, because of the + lack of higher schools for girls here, but also + because they don’t have to give up marriage + here when they get an education—in fact + we are told they are in especial demand not + only among the men who have studied + <a class="pagenum" id="page164" title="164"> </a>abroad, but among the millionaires. Certainly + the educated ones here are much more + advanced on the woman question than in + Japan.</p> + + <p>“You never can tell†is the coat of arms + of China. The Chancellor of the University + was forced out on the evening of the eighth + by the cabinet, practically under threat of + assassination; also soldiers (bandits) were + brought into the city and the University surrounded, + so to save the University rather + than himself, he left—nobody knows where. + The release of the students was sent out by + telegraph, but they refused to allow this to + become known. It seems this Chancellor + was more the intellectual leader of the liberals + than I had realized, and the government + had become really afraid of him. He + has only been there two years, and before + that the students had never demonstrated + politically and now they are the leaders of + the new movement. So of course the government + will put in a reactionary, and the + <a class="pagenum" id="page165" title="165"> </a>students will leave and all the honest teachers + resign. Perhaps the students will go + on strike all over China. But you never + can tell.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page166" title="166"> </a>Tuesday <span class="smaller">A.M.</span></h2> + + <p>Ex-President Sun Yat Sen is a philosopher, + as I found out last night during dinner + with him. He has written a book, to be + published soon, saying that the weakness of + the Chinese is due to their acceptance of the + statement of an old philosopher, “To know + is easy, to act is difficult.†Consequently + they did not like to act and thought it was + possible to get a complete theoretical understanding, + while the strength of the Japanese + was that they acted even in ignorance + and went ahead and learned by their mistakes; + the Chinese were paralyzed by fear + of making a mistake in action. So he has + written a book to prove to his people that + action is really easier than knowledge.</p> + + <p>The American sentiment here hopes that + the Senate will reject the treaty because it + virtually completes the turning over of + <a class="pagenum" id="page167" title="167"> </a>China to Japan. I will only mention two + things said in the conversation. Japan + already has more troops, namely twenty-three + divisions, under arms in China than + she has in Japan, Japanese officered Chinese, + and her possession of Manchurian + China is already complete. They have lent + China two hundred millions to be used in + developing this army and extending it. + They offered China, according to the conversation + at dinner, to lend her two million + a month for twenty years for military purposes. + Japan figured the war would last till + ‘21 or ‘22, and had proposed an offensive + and defensive alliance to Germany, Japan + to supply its trained Chinese army, and + Germany to turn over to Japan the Allies’ + concessions and colonies in China. As an + evidence of good faith, Germany had + already offered to Japan its own Chinese + territory, and it was the communication of + this fact to Great Britain which induced the + latter to sign the secret pact agreeing to + <a class="pagenum" id="page168" title="168"> </a>turn over German possessions to Japan, + when the peace was made. These men are + not jingoists; they think they know what + they are talking about, and they have good + sources of knowledge. Some of these statements + are known facts—like the size of the + army and the two hundred million loan—but + of course I can’t guarantee them. But + I’m coming to the opinion that it might be + well worth while to reject the treaty on the + ground that it involved the recognition of + secret treaties and secret diplomacy. On the + other hand, a genuine League of Nations—one + with some vigor—is the only salvation + I can see of the whole Eastern situation, and + it is infinitely more serious than we realize + at home. If things drift on five or ten years + more, the world will have a China under + Japanese military domination—barring two + things—Japan will collapse in the meantime + under the strain, or Asia will be completely + Bolshevikized, which I think is about fifty-fifty + with a Japanized-Militarized China. + <a class="pagenum" id="page169" title="169"> </a>European diplomacy here, which of course + dominates America, is completely futile. + England does everything with reference to + India, and they all temporize and drift and + take what are called optimistic long-run + views and quarrel among themselves, and + Japan alone knows what it wants and comes + after it.</p> + + <p>I still believe in the genuineness of the + Japanese liberal movement there, but they + lack moral courage. They, the intellectual + liberals, are almost as ignorant of the true + facts as we are, and enough aware of them + to wish to keep themselves in ignorance. + Then there is the great patriotism, which of + course easily justifies, by the predatory example + of the Europeans, the idea that this is + all in self-defense.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page170" title="170"> </a><em class="location">Shanghai</em>, May 13.</h2> + + <p>I closed up abruptly because there seemed + a possibility of mail going out and now it + is a day after and more to tell, with a prospect + of little time to tell it. China is full + of unused resources and there are too many + people. The factories begin to work at six + or earlier in the morning, with not enough + for the poor to do, and they have the habit + of not wanting to work much. Two shifts + work in factories for the twenty-four hours. + They get about twenty to thirty cents a day + and the little children get from nothing up + to nine cents, or even eleven cents after they + get older. Iron mines are idle, coal and oil + undeveloped, and they cannot get railroads. + They burn their wood everywhere and the + country is withering away because it is deforested. + They made the porcelain industry + <a class="pagenum" id="page171" title="171"> </a>for the world and they buy their table dishes + from Japan. They raise a deteriorated cotton + and buy cotton cloth from Japan. They + buy any quantity of small useful articles + from Japan. Japanese are in every town + across China like a network closing in on + fishes.</p> + + <p>All the mineral resources of China are the + prey of the Japanese, and they have secured + 80 per cent of them by bribery of the Peking + government. Talk to a Chinese and + he will tell you that China cannot develop + because she has no transportation facilities. + Talk to him about building railroads and he + tells you China ought to have railroads but + she cannot build them because she cannot + get the material. Talk to him about fuel + when you see all the weeds being gathered + from the roadsides for burning in the cook + stoves, and he tells you China cannot use + her mines because of the government’s interference. + There are large coal mines + within ten miles of this city with the coal + <a class="pagenum" id="page172" title="172"> </a>lying near the surface and only the Japanese + are using them, though they are right on + the bank of the Yangste River. The iron + mines referred to are near the river, a whole + mountain of iron being worked by the + Japanese, who bring the ocean ships up the + river, load them directly from the mines, the + ore being carried down the hill, and take + these ships directly to Japan, and they pay + four dollars a ton to the Chinese company + which carries on all the work.</p> + + <p>The last hope of China for an effective + government passed away with the closing + of the Peace Conference, which has been + working hard here for weeks. It seems the + delegates from the south could act with + plenary power. The delegates from the + north had to refer everything to the military + ministers from Peking, and so at last they + gave up. Despair is deeper than ever, and + they all say that nothing can be done. We + have gone round recommending many ways + of getting at the wrong impressions that + <a class="pagenum" id="page173" title="173"> </a>prevail in our country about them, such as + propaganda, an insistence upon the explanation + of the differences between the people + and the government. But the reply is, “We + can do nothing, we have no money.†Certainly + the Chinese pride has been grounded + now. An American official here says there + is no hope for China except through the protection + of the great powers, in which Japan + must join. Without that she is the prey of + Japan. Japanese are buying best bits of + land in this city for business, and in other + cities. Japan borrows money from other + nations and then loans it to China on bleeding + terms. The cession of Shantung has, of + course, precipitated the whole mess and + some Chinese think that is their last hope + to so reduce them to the last extremity that + rage will bring them to act. The boycott of + Japanese goods and money has begun, but + many say it will not be persistently carried + out. The need for food and clothes in China + keeps everybody bound by the struggle for + <a class="pagenum" id="page174" title="174"> </a>a livelihood, and everything else has to be + forgotten in the long run.</p> + + <p>The protests of the Faculty on behalf of + the students seem to have been received by + the government in good part. Students + here are in trouble also to some extent and + there is a probability of a strike of students + in all the colleges and middle schools of the + country. The story at St. John’s here is + very interesting. It is the Episcopalian + mission school, and one of the best. Students + walked to Shanghai, ten miles, on the + hottest day to parade, then ten miles back. + Some of them fell by the way with sunstroke. + On their return in the evening they + found some of the younger students going + in to a concert. The day was a holiday, + called the Day of Humiliation. It is the + anniversary of the date of the twenty-one + demands of Japan, and is observed by all + the schools. It is a day of general meetings + and speechmaking for China. These students + stood outside of the door where the + <a class="pagenum" id="page175" title="175"> </a>concert was to be held and their principal + came out and told them they must go to the + concert. They replied that they were praying + there, as it was not a time for celebrating + by a concert on the Day of Humiliation. + Then they were ordered to go in first by this + principal and afterwards by the President + of the whole college. Considerable excitement + was the result. Students said they + were watching there for the sake of China as + the apostles prayed at the death of Christ + and this anniversary was like the anniversary + of the death of Christ. The President + told them if they did not go in then he + would shut them out of the college. This + he did. They stood there till morning and + then one of them who lived nearby took + them into his house. Therefore St. John’s + College is closed and the President has not + given in.</p> + + <p>I fancy the Chinese would be almost + ready to treat the Japanese as they did the + treacherous minister if it were not for the + <a class="pagenum" id="page176" title="176"> </a>reaction it would have on the world at large. + They do hate them and the Americans we + have met all seem to feel with them. Certainly + the apparent lie of the Japanese when + they made their splurge in promising before + the sitting of the Peace Conference to give + back the German concessions to China is + something America ought not to forget. All + these, and the extreme poverty of China is + what I had no idea of before coming here.</p> + + <p>A wonderfully solemn and intent old + pedlar has made his appearance most every + day, and much the same ceremonies are gone + through. For instance, there was a bead + necklace—the light hollowed silver enamel—he + wanted fourteen dollars for; he seemed + rather glad finally to sell it for four, though + you can’t say he seemed glad; on the contrary, + he seemed preternaturally gloomy + and remarked that he and not we would eat + bitterness because of this purchase. The + funniest thing was once when, after getting + sick of bargaining, we put the whole thing + <a class="pagenum" id="page177" title="177"> </a>down and started to walk away. His movements + and gestures would have made an + actor celebrated—they are indescribable, + but they said in effect, “Rather than have + any misunderstanding come between me + and my close personal friends I would give + you free anything in my possession.†The + blood rushed to his face and a smile of + heavenly benignity came over it as he + handed us the things at the price we had + offered him.</p> + + <p>The students’ committees met yesterday + and voted to inform the government by telegraph + that they would strike next Monday + if their four famous demands were not + granted—or else five—including of course refusal + to sign the peace treaty, punishment of + traitors who made the secret treaties with + Japan because they were bribed, etc. But + the committee seemed to me more conservative + than the students, for the rumor this + <span class="smaller">A.M.</span> is that they are going to strike to-day + anyway. They are especially angered because + <a class="pagenum" id="page178" title="178"> </a>the police have forbidden them to hold + open-air meetings—that’s now the subject + of one of their demands—and because the + provincial legislature, after promising to + help on education, raised their own salaries + and took the money to do it with out of the + small educational fund. In another district + the students rioted and rough-housed the + legislative hall when this happened. Here + there was a protest committee, but the students + are mad and want action. Some of + the teachers, so far as I can judge, quite + sympathize with the boys, not only in their + ends but in their methods; some think it + their moral duty to urge deliberate action + and try to make the students as organized + and systematic as possible, and some take + the good old Chinese ground that there is + no certainty that any good will come of it. + To the outsider it looks as if the babes and + sucklings who have no experience and no + precedents would have to save China—if. + And it’s an awful if. It’s not surprising + <a class="pagenum" id="page179" title="179"> </a>that the Japanese with their energy and + positiveness feel that they are predestined to + govern China.</p> + + <p>I didn’t ever expect to be a jingo, but + either the United States ought to wash its + hands entirely of the Eastern question, and + say “it’s none of our business, fix it up yourself + any way you like,†or else it ought to be + as positive and aggressive in calling Japan + to account for every aggressive move she + makes, as Japan is in doing them. It is + sickening that we allow Japan to keep us + on the defensive and the explanatory, and + talk about the open door, when Japan has + locked most of the doors in China already + and got the keys in her pocket. I understand + and believe what all Americans say + here—the military party that controls + Japan’s foreign policy in China regards + everything but positive action, prepared to + back itself by force, as fear and weakness, + and is only emboldened to go still further. + Met by force, she would back down. I don’t + <a class="pagenum" id="page180" title="180"> </a>mean military force, but definite positive + statements about what she couldn’t do that + she knew meant business. At the present + time the Japanese are trying to stir up anti-foreign + feeling and make the Chinese believe + the Americans and English are responsible + for China not getting Shantung back, + and also talking race discrimination for the + same purpose. I don’t know what effect + their emissaries are having among the ignorant, + but the merchant class has about got + to the point of asking foreign intervention + to straighten things out—first to loosen the + clutch of Japan, and then, or at the same + time, for it’s the two sides of the same thing, + overthrow the corrupt military clique that + now governs China and sells it out. It’s + a wonderful job for a League of Nations—if + only by any chance there is a league, which + looks most dubious at this distance.</p> + + <p>The question which is asked oftenest by + the students is in effect this: “All of our + hopes of permanent peace and internationalism + <a class="pagenum" id="page181" title="181"> </a>having been disappointed at Paris, + which has shown that might still makes + right, and that the strong nations get what + they want at the expense of the weak, should + not China adopt militarism as part of her + educational system?â€</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page182" title="182"> </a><em class="location">Nanking</em>, May 18.</h2> + + <p>There is no doubt we are in China. + Hangchow, we are told, was one of the most + prosperous of the strictly Chinese cities, and + after seeing this town we can believe it. It + has a big wall around it, said to be 21 miles + and also 33—my guess is the latter; nonetheless + there are hundreds of acres of farm + within it. This afternoon we were taken up + on the wall; it varies from 15 to 79 feet in + height, according to the lay of the ground, + and from 12 to 30 feet or so wide; hard + baked brick, about as large as three of ours. + They always had a smaller walled city inside + the big one, variously called the Imperial + and Manchu city. But since the revolution + they are tearing down these inner walls, + partly I suppose to show their contempt for + the Manchus, and partly to use the brick. + These are sold for three or four cents apiece + <a class="pagenum" id="page183" title="183"> </a>and carted all around on the big Chinese + wheelbarrow, by man power, of course. The + compound wall of this house is made of + them, and they have several thousand of + them stored at the University grounds. They + scrape them off by hand; you can get some + idea of the relative value of material and + human beings. I started out to speak of + the view—typical China, deforested hills + close by, all pockmarked at the bottom with + graves, like animal burrows and golf bunkers; + peasants’ stone houses with thatched + roofs, looking like Ireland or France; + orchards of pomegranates with lovely scarlet + blossoms and other fruits; some rice fields + already growing, others being set out, ten + or a dozen people at work in one patch; garden + patches, largely melons; in the distance + the wall stretching out for miles, a hill with + a pagoda, a lotus lake, and in the far distance + the blue mountains—also the city, not + so much of which was visible, however.</p> + + <p>One of the interesting things in moving + <a class="pagenum" id="page184" title="184"> </a>about is the fact that only once in a while + do I see a face typically Chinese. I forget + they are Chinese a great deal of the time. + They just seem like dirty, poor miserable + people anywhere. They are cheerful but + not playful. I should like to give a few + millions for playgrounds and toys and play + leaders. I can’t but think that a great deal + of the lack of initiative and the let-George-do-it, + which is the curse of China, is connected + with the fact that the children are + grown up so soon. There are less than a + hundred schools for children in this city of + a third of a million, and the schools only + have a few hundred—two or three at most. + The children on the street are always just + looking and watching, wise, human looking, + and reasonably cheerful, but old and serious + beyond bearing. Of course many are working + at the loom, or when they are younger + at reeling. This is a good deal of a silk + place, and we visited one government factory + with several hundred people at work; + <a class="pagenum" id="page185" title="185"> </a>this one at least makes out to be self-supporting. + There isn’t a power reeler or loom + in the town, nor yet a loom of the Jacquard + type. Sometimes a boy sits up top and + shifts things, sometimes they have six or + eight foot treadles. A lot of the reeling isn’t + even foot power—just hand, though their + hand reeler is much more ingenious than the + Japanese one. There seem so many places + to take hold and improve things and yet all + of these are so tied together, and change is + so hard that it isn’t much wonder everybody + who stays here gets more or less Chinafied + and takes it out in liking the Chinese personally + for their amiable qualities.</p> + + <p>Just now the students are forming a + patriotic league because of the present political + situation, Japanese boycott, etc. But + the teachers of the Nanking University here + say that instead of contenting themselves + with the two or three things they might well + do, they are laying out an ambitious scheme + covering everything, and their energy will + <a class="pagenum" id="page186" title="186"> </a>be exhausted when they get their elaborate + constitution formed, or they will meet so + many difficulties that they will get discouraged + even with the things they might do. I + don’t know whether I told you about the + clerk in the tailor shop in Shanghai; after + taking the usual fatalistic attitude that + nothing could be done with the present situation, + he said the boycott was a good thing + but “Chinaman he got weak mind; pretty + soon he forget.â€</p> + + <p>In various places there are lots of straw + hats hung up painted in Chinese characters + where they have stopped passersby and + taken their hats away because they were + Japanese made. It is all good natured and + nobody objects. There are policemen in + front of Japanese stores, and they allow no + one to enter; they are “protecting†the + Japanese. This is characteristic of China. + The policemen all carry guns with bayonets + attached; they are very numerous and + slouch around looking bored to death. The + <a class="pagenum" id="page187" title="187"> </a>only other class as bored looking is the dogs, + which are even more numerous, and lie + stretched out at full length, never curled up, + and never by any chance doing anything.</p> + + <p>We visited the old examination halls + which are now being torn down. These + are the cells, about 25,000 in number, where + the candidates for degrees used to be shut + up during the examination period. Said + cells are built in long rows, under a lean-to + roof, mostly opening face to face on an open + corridor, which is uncovered. Some of them + face against a wall which is the back of + the next row of cells. Cells are two and + one-half feet wide by four long. In them + are two ridges along the wall on each side, + one at the height of a seat, the other at the + height of a table. On these they laid two + boards, two and a half feet long, and this + was their furniture. They sat and wrote + and cooked and ate and slept in these cells. + In case it did not rain, their feet could stick + out into the corridor so they might stretch + <a class="pagenum" id="page188" title="188"> </a>out on the hard floor. The exams lasted + eight days, divided into three divisions. + They went in on the eighth day of the + eighth moon in the evening. They wrote the + first subject until the afternoon of the tenth. + Then they left for the night. On the afternoon + of the eleventh they came in for the + second subject and wrote till the afternoon + of the thirteenth, when there was another day + off. On the evening of the fourteenth they + re-entered the cell for the third period and + that ended on the evening of the sixteenth. + They had free communication with each + other in the corridors, which were closed and + locked. No one could approach them from + the outside for any reason. Often they died. + But if they could only get put into a corridor + with a friend who knew, the biggest + fool in China could get his paper written + for him, and he could pass and become an + M. A., or something corresponding to that + degree. Thus were the famous literati of + China produced. Preparation for the exam + <a class="pagenum" id="page189" title="189"> </a>was not the affair of the government, and + might be acquired in any possible way. + The houses of the examiners are still in + good condition and might be made into a + school very easily. But do you think they + will do that? Not at all. The government + has not ordered a school there, and so they + will be torn down or else used for some official + work. You can have no conception of + how far the officialism goes till you see it. + We also visited a Confucian Temple, big + and used twice each year. It is like all + temples in that it is covered with the dust + of many years’ accumulation. If you were + to be dropped in any Chinese temple you + would think you had landed in a deserted + and forgotten ruin out of reach of man. + We went to the Temple of Hell on Sunday, + and the gentleman who accompanied + us suggested to the priest that the images + ought to be dusted off. “Yes,†said the + priest, “it would be better if they were.â€</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page190" title="190"> </a><em class="location">Nanking</em>, Thursday, May 22.</h2> + + <p>The returned students from Japan hate + Japan, but they are all at loggers with the + returned students from America, and their + separate organizations cannot get together. + Many returned students have no jobs, apparently + because they will not go into business + or begin at the bottom anywhere, and + there is strong hostility against them on the + part of the officials.</p> + + <p>As a sample of the way business is done + here, we have just had an express letter + from Shanghai which took four days to + arrive. It should arrive in twelve hours. + People use express letters rather than the + telegraph because they are quicker. You + may spend as much time as you like or + don’t like, wondering why your express + letter did not reach you on time; you do it + at your own risk and expense. The Chinese + <a class="pagenum" id="page191" title="191"> </a>do not juggle with foreigners as the Japanese + do, in the conscious sense, they simply + drift, they juggle with themselves and with + each other all the time.</p> + + <p>This house is four miles from the railroad + station. There is no street car here; there + are many ’rickshas, a few carriages, still + fewer autos. There are no sedan chairs, at + least I don’t remember seeing any, but at + Chienkiang, where we went the other day, + the streets are so narrow that chairs are the + main means of conveyance. The ’ricksha + men here pay forty cents a day to the city + for their vehicles, which are all alike and + very poor ones. They make a little more + than that sum for themselves. In Shanghai + they pay ninety cents a day for their right + to work, and earn from one dollar to a possible + dollar and a half for themselves.</p> + + <p>I said to a young professor, the other + day, that China was still supporting three + idle classes of people. He looked surprised, + though a student and critic of social conditions, + <a class="pagenum" id="page192" title="192"> </a>and asked me who they were. When + I asked him if that couldn’t be said of the + officials, the priests, and the army, he said + yes, it could. Thus far and no further, + seems to be their motto, both in thinking + and acting, especially in acting.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page193" title="193"> </a><em class="location">Nanking</em>, May 23.</h2> + + <p>I don’t believe anybody knows what the + political prospects are; this students’ movement + has introduced a new and uncalculable + factor—and all in the three weeks we + have been here. You heard nothing but + gloom about political China at first, corrupt + and traitorous officials, soldiers only paid + banditti, the officers getting the money from + Japan to pay them with, no organizing + power or cohesion among the Chinese; and + then the students take things into their + hands, and there is animation and a sudden + buzz. There are a hundred students being + coached here to go out and make speeches, + they will have a hundred different stations + scattered through the city. It is also said + the soldiers are responding to the patriotic + propaganda; a man told us that the soldiers + <a class="pagenum" id="page194" title="194"> </a>wept when some students talked to them + about the troubles of China, and the soldiers + of Shantung, the province turned over to + Japan, have taken the lead in telegraphing + the soldiers in the other provinces to resist + the corrupt traitors. Of course, what they + all are afraid of is that this is a flash in the + pan, but they are already planning to make + the student movement permanent and to + find something for them to do after this is + settled. Their idea here is to reorganize + them for popular propaganda for education, + more schools, teaching adults, social service, + etc.</p> + + <p>It is very interesting to compare the men + who have been abroad with those who + haven’t—I mean students and teachers. + Those who haven’t are sort of helpless, + practically; the height of literary and + academic minds. Those who have studied + abroad, even in Japan, have much more go + to them. Certainly the classicists in education + have a noble example here in China of + <a class="pagenum" id="page195" title="195"> </a>what their style of education can do if only + kept up long enough. On the other hand, + there must be something esthetically very + fine in the old Chinese literature; even + many of the modern young men have a + sentimental attachment to it, precisely like + that which they have to the fine writing of + their characters. They talk about them + with all the art jargon: “Notice the + strength of this down stroke, and the + spirituality of the cross stroke and elegant + rhythm of the composition.†When we + visited a temple the other day, one of the + chief Buddhist shrines in China, we were + presented with a rubbing of the writing of + the man who is said to be the finest writer + ever known in China—these characters were + engraved in the rock from his writing some + centuries ago—I don’t know how many. It + is very easy to see how cultivated people + take refuge in art and spirituality when + politics are corrupt and the general state of + social life is discouraging; you see it here, + <a class="pagenum" id="page196" title="196"> </a>and how in the end it increases the decadence.</p> + + <p>I think we wrote you from Shanghai that + we had been introduced to all the mysteries + of China, ancient eggs, sharks’ fins, + birds’ nests, pigeon eggs, the eight precious + treasures, rice pudding, and so on. + We continue to have Chinese meals; yesterday + lunch in the home of an adviser to + a military official. He is very outspoken, + doesn’t trim in politics, and gives you a + more hopeful feeling about China. The + most depressing thing is hearing it said, + “When we get a stable government, we can + do so and so, but there is no use at present.†+ But this man’s attitude is rather, “Damn + the government and go ahead and do something.†+ He is very proud of having a + “happy, Christian home†and doesn’t cover + up his Christianity as most of the official + and wealthy class seem to do. He expects + to have his daughters educated in America, + one in medicine and one in home affairs, and + <a class="pagenum" id="page197" title="197"> </a>to have help in a campaign for changing + the character of the Chinese home—from + these big aggregates of fifty people or so + living together, married children, servants, + etc., where he says the waste is enormous, + to say nothing of bickerings and jealousies. + In the old type of well-to-do home, breakfast + would begin for someone about seven, + and someone would have cooking done for + him to eat till noon; then about two, visitors + would come, and the servants would be + ordered to cook something for each caller—absolutely + no organization or planning in + anything, according to him.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page198" title="198"> </a><em class="location">Nanking</em>, Monday, May 26.</h2> + + <p>The trouble among the students is daily + getting worse, and even the most sympathetic + among the faculties are getting more + and more anxious. The governor of this + province, capital here, is thought most + liberal, and he has promised to support these + advanced measures in education. Last + Friday the assembly passed a bill cutting + down the educational appropriation and + raising their own salaries. Therefore the + students here are now all stirred up and the + faculties are afraid they cannot be kept in + control until they are well enough organized + to make a strike effective. At the same + time our friends are kept busy running up + to the assembly and the governor. The + latter has promised to veto the bill when it + is sent to him from the senate. But the + students are getting anxious to go to the + <a class="pagenum" id="page199" title="199"> </a>senate themselves. Our friends say it costs + so much for these men to get elected that + they have to get it all back after they get + into office. A missionary says: “Let’s go + out and shoot them all, they are just as + bad as Peking, and if they had the same + chance they would sell out the whole country + to Japan or to anyone else.†Certainly + China needs education all along the line, + but they never will get it as long as they + try in little bits. So maybe they will have + to be pushed to the very bottom before they + will be ready to go the whole hog or none.</p> + + <p>Yesterday a Chinese lady had a tea for + me and asked the Taitai, as the wives of the + officials are called, corresponding to the + court ladies of previous times. As a function + this was interesting, for every woman + brought her servant and most of her children. + Some appeared to have two servants, + one big-footed maid for herself and one + bound-footed as a nurse for the children. + Her own servant hands her the cup of tea. + <a class="pagenum" id="page200" title="200"> </a>All the children are fed at the same time as + the grown-ups, and after their superiors the + servants get something in the kitchen. I + don’t know yet what that something is, but + probably an inferior tea. The tea we drank + is that famous jasmine tea from Hangchow. + It costs something like fifteen dollars + a pound here. It is very good, with a + peculiar spicy flavor, almost musky and + smoky, from the jasmine combined with the + tea flavor, which is strong. It is a delicious + brown tea, but I do not like to drink it so + well as I like the best green tea.</p> + + <p>Well, I wish you could see the Taitai. + The wife of the governor is about twenty-five, + or may be a little more. She is a substantial + young person, with full-grown feet, + a pale blue dress of skirt and coat scalloped + on the edges and bound with black satin, + her nice hair parted to one side on the right + and pinned above her left ear with a white + artificial rose. Her maid had black coat + and trousers. She had some bracelets on, + <a class="pagenum" id="page201" title="201"> </a>but her jewels were less beautiful than those + of the other women. One very pretty + woman had buttons on her coat of emeralds + surrounded with pearls, and on her arm a + lovely bracelet of pearls. After tea, the + great ladies went into an inner room, with + the exception of two. One of these two had + a very sad face. I watched her and finally + had a chance to ask her how many children + she had. She said she had none, but she + would like to have a daughter. I was told + after that her husband was a Christian + pastor and she was trying to be Christian. + The other one who stayed was the pretty + one with the emerald buttons. I finally decided + the ladies had left us to play their + cards and asked if I might go and see them. + They were not playing cards, but had just + gone off to gossip among themselves, probably + about the foreigners. One of the ladies + said she would take me some day to see their + card games. It is said they play in the + morning and in the afternoon and all the + <a class="pagenum" id="page202" title="202"> </a>night till the next morning when they go to + bed. It is commonly said this is all they + do, and the losses are very disastrous sometimes.</p> + + <p>But they were not playing then and came + back, some of them with their children, and + sat in the rows of chairs, sixteen of them, + and some amahs around the room, while I + talked to them. I told stories about what + the American women did in the war and + they stared with amazement. I had to explain + what a gas mask is, but they knew + what killing is and what high class is. Their + giggles were quite encouraging to intercourse. + A nice young lady from the college + interpreted, and when I stopped I asked + them to tell me something about their lives. + So the governor’s wife was at last persuaded + to give an account of how she brought up + her children. They are all free from self-consciousness, + and though they have little + manners in our sense of the word, they have + a self-possession and gentleness combined + <a class="pagenum" id="page203" title="203"> </a>which gives a very graceful appearance. + The governor’s wife says she has two little + boys, the eldest six years of age. In the + morning he has a Chinese tutor. After dinner, + she teaches him music, of which she is + very fond. After that he plays till five-thirty, + has supper, plays again a little while + before going to bed, and then bed. At thirteen + the boy will be sent away to school. I + asked her what about girls, and she said that + her little niece was the first one in her family + to be sent to school, but this ten-year-old one + is in Tientsin at a boarding school.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page204" title="204"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, Sunday, June 1.</h2> + + <p>We met a young man here from an interior + province who is trying to get money + for teachers who haven’t received their pay + for a long time. Meantime over sixty per + cent of the entire national expenses is going + to the military, and the army is worse than + useless. In many provinces it is composed + of brigands and everywhere is practically + under the control of the tuchuns or military + governors, who are corrupt and use the pay + roll to increase their graft and the army to + increase their power of local oppression, + while the head military man is openly pro-Japanese.</p> + + <p>There is a lull in our affairs just now. + We agreed yesterday that never in our lives + had we begun to learn as much as in the + last four months. And the last month particularly, + there has been almost too much + <a class="pagenum" id="page205" title="205"> </a>food to be digestible. Talk about the secretive + and wily East. Compared, say, with + Europe, they hand information out to you + here on a platter (though it must be admitted + the labels are sometimes mixed) and + sandbag you with it.</p> + + <p>Yesterday we went to the Western Hills + where are the things you see in the pictures, + including the stone boat, the base of which + is really marble and as fine as the pictures. + But all the rest of it is just theatrical + fake, more or less peeling off at that. However, + it is as wonderful as it is cracked up + to be, and in some ways more systematic + than Versailles, which is what you naturally + compare it to. The finest thing architecturally + is a Buddhist temple with big tiles, + each of which has a Buddha on—for further + details see movie or something. We + walked somewhat higher than Russian Hill, + including a journey through the caves in an + artificial mountain such as the Chinese delight + in, clear up to this temple. The + <a class="pagenum" id="page206" title="206"> </a>Manchu family seems to own the thing yet, + and charge a big sum, or rather several + sums, a la Niagara Falls, to get about—another + evidence that China needs another + revolution, or rather <i>a</i> revolution, the first + one having got rid of a dynasty and left, + as per my previous letters, a lot of corrupt + governors in charge of chaos. The only + thing that I can see that keeps things together + at all is that while a lot of these generals + and governors would like to grab more + for their individual selves, they are all afraid + the whole thing would come down round + their ears if anyone made a definite move. + Status quo is China’s middle name, mostly + status and a little quo. I have one more + national motto to add to “You Never Can + Tell†and “Let George Do It.†It is, + “That is very bad.†Instead of concealing + things, they expose all their weak and bad + points very freely, and after setting them + forth most calmly and objectively, say + “That is very bad.†I don’t know whether + <a class="pagenum" id="page207" title="207"> </a>it is possible for a people to be too reasonable, + but it is certainly too possible to take + it out in being reasonable—and that’s them. + However, it makes them wonderful companions. + You can hardly blame the Japanese + for wanting to run them and supply the + necessary pep when they decline to run + themselves. You certainly see the other + side of the famous one-track mind of Japan + over here, as well as of other things. If you + keep doing something all the time, I don’t + know whether you need even a single track + mind. All you have to do is to keep going + where you started for, while others keep + wobbling or never get started.</p> + + <p>Well, this morning we went to the famous + museum, and there is one thing where China + is still ahead. It is housed in some of the + old palaces and audience halls of the inner, + or purple, forbidden City. With the yellow + porcelain roofs, and the blue and green and + gold, and the red walls, it is really the barbaric + splendor you read about, and about + <a class="pagenum" id="page208" title="208"> </a>the first thing that comes up to the conventional + idea of what is Oriental. The Hindoo + influence is much stronger here than anywhere + else we have been, or else really Thibetan, + I suppose, and many things remind + one of the Moorish. The city of Peking + was a thousand years building, and was laid + out on a plan when the capitals of Europe + were purely haphazard, so there is no doubt + they have organizing power all right if they + care to use it. The museum is literally one + of treasures, porcelains, bronzes, jade, etc., + not an historic or antiquated museum. It + costs ten cents to get into the park here and + much more into the museum, a dollar or + more, I guess, and we got the impression + that it was fear of the crowd and the populace + rather than the money which controls; + the rate is too high for revenue purposes.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page209" title="209"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 1.</h2> + + <p>We have just seen a few hundred girls + march away from the American Board Mission + school to go to see the President to + ask him to release the boy students who are + in prison for making speeches on the street. + To say that life in China is exciting is to put + it fairly. We are witnessing the birth of a + nation, and birth always comes hard. I may + as well begin at the right end and tell you + what has happened while things have been + moving so fast I could not get time to write. + Yesterday we went to see the temples of + Western Hills, conducted by one of the + members of the Ministry of Education. As + we were running along the big street that + passes the city wall we saw students speaking + to groups of people. This was the first + time the students had appeared for several + days. We asked the official if they would + <a class="pagenum" id="page210" title="210"> </a>not be arrested, and he said, “No, not if they + keep within the law and do not make any + trouble among the people.†This morning + when we got the paper it was full of nothing + else. The worst thing is that the University + has been turned into a prison with military + tents all around it and a notice on the outside + that this is a prison for students who + disturb the peace by making speeches. As + this is all illegal, it amounts to a military + seizure of the University and therefore all + the faculty will have to resign. They are + to have a meeting this afternoon to discuss + the matter. After that is over, we will + probably know what has happened again. + The other thing we heard was that in addition + to the two hundred students locked up + in the Law Building, two students were + taken to the Police rooms and flogged on the + back. Those two students were making a + speech and were arrested and taken before + the officers of the gendarmerie. Instead of + shutting up as they were expected to do, the + <a class="pagenum" id="page211" title="211"> </a>boys asked some questions of these officers + that were embarrassing to answer. The + officers then had them flogged on the back. + Thus far no one has been able to see any of + the officers. If the officers denied the accusation + then the reporters would ask to see + the two prisoners on the principle that the + officers could have no reason for refusing + that request unless the story were true. We + saw students making speeches this morning + about eleven, when we started to look for + houses, and heard later that they had been + arrested, that they carried tooth brushes and + towels in their pockets. Some stories say + that not two hundred but a thousand have + been arrested. There are about ten thousand + striking in Peking alone. The marching + out of those girls was evidently a shock + to their teachers and many mothers were + there to see them off. The girls were going + to walk to the palace of the President, which + is some long distance from the school. If he + does not see them, they will remain standing + <a class="pagenum" id="page212" title="212"> </a>outside all night and they will stay there + till he does see them. I fancy people will + take them food. We heard the imprisoned + students got bedding at four this morning + but no food till after that time. There is + water in the building and there is room for + them to lie on the floor. They are cleaner + than they would be in jail, and of course + much happier for being together.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page213" title="213"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 2.</h2> + + <p>Maybe you would like to know a little + about how we look this morning and how we + are living. In the first place, this is a big + hotel with a bath in each room. On a big + street opposite to us is the wall of the legation + quarter, which has trees in it and big + roofs which represent all that China ought + to have and has not. The weather is like + our hot July, except that it is drier than the + August drought on Long Island. The + streets of Peking are the widest in the world, + I guess, and ours leads by the red walls of + the Chinese city with the wonderful gates + of which you see pictures. It is macadamized + in the middle, but on each side of it + run wider roads, which are used for the + traffic. Thank your stars there are good + horses in Peking; men do not pull all the + heavy loads. The two side roads are worn + <a class="pagenum" id="page214" title="214"> </a>down in deep ruts and these ruts are filled + with dust like finest ashes, and all thrown up + into the air whenever a man steps on it or + a cart moves through. Our room faces the + south on this road. All day long the sun + pours through the bamboo shades and the + hot air brings in that gray dust, and everything + you touch, including your own skin, + is gritty and has a queer dry feeling that + makes you think you ought to run for water. + I am learning to shut the windows and inner + blinds afternoons. Isn’t it strange that in + the latitude of New York this drought + should be expected every spring? In spite + of all this the fields have crops growing, + thinly, to be sure, on the hard gray fields. + There are very few trees, and they are not + of the biggest. The grain is already about + fit to cut, and the onions are ripe. After + a while it will rain and rain much and then + new crops will be put in. The flowers are + almost gone and I am sorry that we did not + see the famous peonies. You will be interested + <a class="pagenum" id="page215" title="215"> </a>to know that they keep the peonies + small; even the tree kind are cut down till + they are the size of those little ones of mine. + The tuber peonies are transplanted each + year or in some way kept small and the blossoms + are lovely and little. I have seen white + rose peonies and at first thought they were + roses. The buds look almost like the buds + of our big white roses and they are very + fragrant. The peony beds are laid out in + terraces held in place by brick walls, usually + oblong or oval, something like a huge pudding + mold on a table. Other times they + are planted on the flat and surrounded by + bamboo fences of fancy design and geometrical + pattern, usually with a square form to + include each division. The inner city has + many peony beds of that sort, both the tree + and tuber kind, but they have only leaves to + show now.</p> + + <p>Yesterday we went to the summer palace + and to-day we are going to the museum. + That is really inside the Forbidden City, so + <a class="pagenum" id="page216" title="216"> </a>at last we shall set foot on the sacred + ground. The summer palace is really wonderful, + but sad now, like all things made on + too ambitious a scale to fit into the uses of + life. There is a mile of loggia ornamented + with the green and blue and red paintings + which you see imitated. Through a window + we had a peek at the famous portrait of old + Tsu Hsu and she looks just as she did when + I saw it exhibited in New York. The + strange thing about it is that it is still owned + by the Hsu family. Huge rolls of costly + rugs and curtains lie in piles round the room + and everything is covered with this fine dust + so thick that it is not possible to tell the color + of a table top. Cloissonné vases, or rather + images of the famous blue ware stand + under the old lady’s portrait, and everything + is going to rack and ruin. Meantime we + wandered around, planning how it could be + made over into use when the revolution + comes. Get rid of the idea that China has + had a revolution and is a republic; that point + <a class="pagenum" id="page217" title="217"> </a>is just where we have been deceived in the + United States. China is at present the + rotten crumbling remnant of the old bureaucracy + that surrounded the corruption of + the Manchus and that made them possible. + The little Emperor is living here in his palace + surrounded by his eunuchs and his tutors + and his two mothers. He is fourteen and it + is really funny to think that they have just + left him Emperor, but as he has not money + except what the republic votes him from + year to year, nobody worries about him, + unless it is the Japanese, who want the imperial + government restored until they get + ready to take it themselves. It looks as if + they might be ready now except for the + nudge which has just been given to the + peace conference. You had better read a + book about this situation, for it is the most + surprising affair in a lifetime.</p> + + <p>Yesterday we went to see a friend’s house. + It is interesting and I should like to live in + one like it. There is no water except what + <a class="pagenum" id="page218" title="218"> </a>the water man brings every day. This little + house has eighteen rooms around a court. + It means four separate roofs and going outdoors + to get from one to another. When + the mercury is at twenty below zero it would + mean that just the same. All the ground + floors have stone floors. We did not see all + the rooms; there are paper windows in some + and glass windows in some. In summer + they put on a temporary roof of mats over + the court. It is higher than the roofs and + so allows ventilation and gives good shade.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page219" title="219"> </a>June 5.</h2> + + <p>This is Thursday morning, and last night + we heard that about one thousand students + were arrested the day before. Yesterday + afternoon a friend got a pass which permitted + him to enter the building where the + students were confined. They have filled up + the building of Law, and have begun on the + Science building, in consequence of which the + faculty have to go to the Missionary buildings + to-day to hold their faculty meeting. + At four yesterday afternoon, the prisoners + who had been put in that day at ten had + had no food. One of our friends went out + and got the University to appropriate some + money and they ordered a carload of bread + sent in. This bread means some little biscuit + sometimes called raised biscuit at home. + I think carload means one of the carts in + which they are delivered. At any rate, the + <a class="pagenum" id="page220" title="220"> </a>boys had some food, though not at the expense + of the police. On the whole, the + checkmate of the police seems surely impending. + They will soon have the buildings + full, as the students are getting more and + more in earnest, and the most incredible + part of it is that the police are surprised. + They really thought the arrests would + frighten the others from going on. So + everybody is getting an education. This + morning one of our friends here is going to + take us up to the University to see the military + encampment, and I hope he will take + us inside also, though I hardly think he will + do the latter.</p> + + <p>As near as I can find out, the Chinese + have reached that interesting stage of development + when they must do something for + women and do as little as they can, but in + case they must have a girls’ school they find + that a convenient place to unload an antiquated + official who really can’t be endured + any longer by real folks.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page221" title="221"> </a>No one can tell to-day what the students’ + strike will bring next; it may bring a revolution, + it may do anything surprising to the + police, who seem to be as lacking in imagination + as police are famous for being. Everyone + here is getting ready to flee for the + summer, which is very hot during July. On + the whole, the heat is perhaps less hard to + endure than the heat of New York, as it + is so dry. But the dryness has its own effect + and when those hard winds blow up the dust + storms it gets on the nerves. Dust heaps + up inside the house, and cuts the skin both + inside and outside of the body. This is a + lucky day, being cloudy and a little damp + as if it might rain.</p> + + <p>The Western Hill was an experience to + remember. Stepping from a Ford limousine + to a chair carried by four men and an + outwalker alongside, we were thus taken by + fifteen men to the temples, your father, an + officer from the Department of Education, + and I. The men walked over the paths in + <a class="pagenum" id="page222" title="222"> </a>the dust and on stones which no one thinks + of picking up. It was so astounding to call + it a pleasure resort that we could only stare + and remain dumb. We saw three temples + and one royal garden. Five hundred Buddhas + in one building, and all the buildings + tumble-down and dirty. On top of one hill + is a huge building which cost a million or + more to build about four hundred years ago + by someone for his tomb. Then he did + something wrong, probably stole from the + wrong person, and was not allowed to be + buried there. Round the temple places the + trees remain and give a refreshing oasis, and + there are some beautiful springs. All the + time we kept saying, “Trees ought to be + planted.†“Yes, but they take so long to + grow,†or, “Yes, but they will not grow, it + is so dry,†etc. Sometimes they would say, + “Yes, we must plant some trees,†or more + likely, “Yes, I think we may plant some + trees sometime, but we have an Arbor + Day and the people cut down the trees or + <a class="pagenum" id="page223" title="223"> </a>else they did.†We would show that the + trees would grow because they were there + round the temples, and besides grass was + growing and trees would grow where grass + would grow in such dry weather, and they + would say the same things over. It made + the little forestry station in Nanking seem + like a monumental advance, while that fearful + sun was beating up the dust under the + stones as the men gave us the Swedish massage + in the motion of the chairs. Fifty men + and more stood around as we got in and out + of the car and five men apiece stood and + waited for us as we walked round the temple + and ate our lunch and spent the time sipping + tea, and yet they cannot plant trees, + and that is China.</p> + + <p>The whole country is covered every inch + with stones. Nature has supplied them, and + falling walls are everywhere. We saw one + great thing, however. They are building a + new school house and orphanage for the + children of that village. Many of the children + <a class="pagenum" id="page224" title="224"> </a>are naked everywhere hereabouts and + they stand with sunburned heads, their + backs covered only with coats of dirt, eating + their bean food in the street. Everywhere + the food is laid out on tables by the roadside + ready to eat. In one temple, a certain + official here has promised to rebuild a small + shrine which houses the laughing Buddha, + who is made of bronze and was once covered + with lacquer, which is now mostly split off. + At present the only shade the god has is a + roof of mats which they have braced up on + the pile of ruins that once made a roof. The + President of the Republic has built a lovely + big gate like the old ones, because it is propitious + and would bring him good fortune. + But he has decided it was not propitious, + something went wrong with the gods, I did + not learn what it was; anyway, he is now + tearing down one of the big buttresses on + one side of it to see if fate will treat him + more kindly then. Just what he wants of + fate I did not learn either, but perhaps it + <a class="pagenum" id="page225" title="225"> </a>is that fate should make him Emperor, as + that seems to be their idea of curing poverty + and political evils. I forgot to say that they + never remove ruins; everything is left to lie + as it falls or is falling, so one gets a good + idea of how gods are constructed. Most of + them were of clay, a sort of concrete built + up on a wood frame, and badly as they need + wood I have never seen a sign of piling up + the fallen beams of a temple. Instead of + that, you risk your life by walking under + these falling roofs unless you have the sense + to look after your own safety. In most of + these Peking temples they do sweep the + floors and even some of the statues look as + if they had some time been dusted, though + this last I am not certain about.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page226" title="226"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 5.</h2> + + <p>As has been remarked before, you never + can tell. The students were stirred up by + orders dissolving their associations, and by + the “mandates†criticising the Japanese + boycott and telling what valuable services + the two men whose dismissal was demanded + had rendered the country. So they got busy—the + students. They were also angered + because the industrial departments of two + schools were ordered closed by the police. + In these departments the students had set + about seeing what things of Japanese importation + could be replaced by hand labor + without waiting for capital. After they + worked it out in the school they went out + to the shops and taught the people how to + make them, and then peddled them about, + making speeches at the same time. Well, + yesterday when we went about we noticed + <a class="pagenum" id="page227" title="227"> </a>that the students were speaking more than + usual, and while the streets were full of soldiers + the students were not interfered with; + in the afternoon a procession of about a + thousand students was even escorted by the + police. Then in the evening a telephone + came from the University that the tents + around the University buildings where the + students were imprisoned had been struck + and the soldiers were all leaving. Then the + students inside held a meeting and passed a + resolution asking the government whether + they were guaranteed freedom of speech, + because if they were not, they would not + leave the building merely to be arrested + again, as they planned to go on speaking. + So they embarrassed the government by remaining + in “jail†all night. We haven’t + heard to-day what has happened, but the + streets are free of soldiers, and there were no + students talking anywhere we went, so I + fancy a truce has been arranged while they + try and fix things up. The government’s + <a class="pagenum" id="page228" title="228"> </a>ignominious surrender was partly due to the + fact that the places of detention were getting + full and about twice as many students + spoke yesterday as the day before, when + they arrested a thousand, and the government + for the first time realized that they + couldn’t bulldoze the students; it was also + partly due to the fact that the merchants + in Shanghai struck the day before yesterday, + and there is talk that the Peking merchants + are organizing for the same purpose. + This is, once more, a strange country; the + so-called republic is a joke; all it has meant + so far is that instead of the Emperor having + a steady job, the job of ruling and looting + is passed around to the clique that grabs + power. One of the leading militarist party + generals invited his dearest enemy to breakfast + a while ago—within the last few months—in + Peking, and then lined his guest + against the wall and had him shot. Did this + affect his status? He is still doing business + at the old stand. But in some ways there + <a class="pagenum" id="page229" title="229"> </a>is more democracy than we have; leaving + out the women, there is complete social + equality, and while the legislature is a perfect + farce, public opinion, when it does express + itself, as at the present time, has remarkable + influence. Some think the worst + officials will now resign and get out, others + that the militarists will attempt a coup + d’état and seize still more power rather than + back down. Fortunately, the latter seem + to be divided at the present time. But all + of the student (and teacher) crowd are + much afraid that even if the present gang + is thrown out, it will be only to replace them + by another set just as bad, so they are refraining + from appealing to the army for + help.</p> + + <p>Later.—The students have now asked + that the chief of police come personally to + escort them out and make an apology. In + many ways, it seems like an opéra bouffe, + but there is no doubt that up to date they + have shown more shrewdness and policy + <a class="pagenum" id="page230" title="230"> </a>than the government, and are getting the + latter where it is a laughing stock, which is + fatal in China. But the government isn’t + inactive; they have appointed a new Minister + of Education and a new Chancellor of + the University, both respectable men, with + no records and colorless characters. It is + likely the Faculty will decline to receive the + new Chancellor unless he makes a satisfactory + declaration—which he obviously can’t, + and thus the row will begin all over again, + with the Faculty involved. If the government + dared, it would dissolve the University, + but the scholar has a sacred reputation in + China.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page231" title="231"> </a>June 7.</h2> + + <p>The whole story of the students is funny + and not the least funny part is that last Friday + the students were speaking and parading + with banners and cheers and the police + standing near them like guardian angels, no + one being arrested or molested. We heard + that one student pouring out hot eloquence + was respectfully requested to move his audience + along a little for the reason that they + were so numerous in statu quo as to impede + traffic, and the policeman would not like to + be held responsible for interfering with the + traffic. Meantime, Saturday the government + sent an apology to the students who + were still in prison of their own free will + waiting for the government to apologize and + to give them the assurance of free speech, + etc. The students are said to have left the + building yesterday morning, though we + <a class="pagenum" id="page232" title="232"> </a>have no accurate information. The Faculty + of the University met and refused to recognize + or accept the new Chancellor. They + sent a committee to the government to tell + them that, and one to the Chancellor to tell + him also and to ask him to resign. It seems + the newly-appointed Chancellor used to be + at the head of the engineering school of the + University, but he was kicked out in the + political struggle. He is an official of the + Yuan Shi Kai school and has become a rich + rubber merchant in Malay, and anyway + they do not want a mere rubber merchant + as President of the University, and they + think they may so explain that to the new + Chancellor that he will not look upon the + office as so attractive as he thought it was.</p> + + <p>There is complete segregation in this city + in all public gatherings, the women at the + theaters are put off in one of those real galleries + such as we think used to be and are + not now. The place for the women in the + hall of the Board of Education is good + <a class="pagenum" id="page233" title="233"> </a>enough and on one side facing the hall so + that all the men can look at them freely and + so protect that famous modesty which I + have heard more of in China than for many + years previously.</p> + + <p>Gasoline is one dollar a gallon here and + a Ford car costs $1900. Ivory soap five for + one dollar. Clean your dress for $2.50. + Tooth paste one dollar a tube, vaseline 50 + cents a small bottle. Washing three cents + each, including dresses and men’s coats and + shirts; fine cook ten dollars a month. They + have a very good one here, and I am going + right on getting fat on delicious Chinese + food. The new Rockefeller Institute, called + the Union Medical College, is very near + here, and they are making beautiful buildings + in the old Chinese style, to say nothing + of their Hygiene. They have just decided + to open it to women, but I am rather suspicious + the requirements will prevent the + women’s using it at first.</p> + + <p>Peking is still much of a capital city and + <a class="pagenum" id="page234" title="234"> </a>is divided into the diplomats and the missionaries. + It seems there is not much lacking + except the old Dowager Empress to + make up the old Peking.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page235" title="235"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 10.</h2> + + <p>The students have taken the trick and + won the game at the present moment—I decline + to predict the morrow when it comes + to China. Sunday morning I lectured at + the auditorium of the Board of Education + and at that time the officials there didn’t + know what had happened. But the government + sent what is called a pacification delegate + to the self-imprisoned students to say + that the government recognized that it had + made a mistake and apologized. Consequently + the students marched triumphantly + out, and yesterday their street meetings + were bigger and more enthusiastic than ever. + The day before they had hooted at four unofficial + delegates who had asked them to + please come out of jail, but who hadn’t + apologized. But the biggest victory is that + <a class="pagenum" id="page236" title="236"> </a>it is now reported that the government will + to-day issue a mandate dismissing the three + men who are always called traitors—yesterday + they had got to the point of offering + to dismiss one, the one whose house was attacked + by the students on the fourth of + May, but they were told that that wouldn’t + be enough, so now they have surrendered + still more. Whether this will satisfy the + striking merchants or whether they will + make further demands, having won the first + round, doesn’t yet appear. There are lots + of rumors, of course. One is that the backdown + is not only due to the strike of merchants, + but to a fear that the soldiers could + no longer be counted upon. There was even + a rumor that a regiment at Western Hills + was going to start for Peking to side with + the students. Rumors are one of China’s + strong suits. When you realize that we + have been here less than six weeks, you will + have to admit that we have been seeing life. + For a country that is regarded at home as + <a class="pagenum" id="page237" title="237"> </a>stagnant and unchanging, there is certainly + something doing.</p> + + <p>This is the world’s greatest kaleidoscope.</p> + + <p>Wilson’s Decoration Day Address has + just been published; perhaps it sounds academic + at home, but over here Chinese at + least regard it as very practical—as, in fact, + a definite threat. On the other hand, we + continue to get tales of how the Washington + State Department has declined to take + the reports sent from here as authentic. + Lately they have had a number of special + agents over here, more or less secret, to get + independent information.</p> + + <p>In talking about democratic developments + in America, whenever I make a remark + such as the Americans do not depend + upon the government to do things for them, + but go ahead and do things for themselves, + the response is immediate and emphatic. + The Chinese are socially a very democratic + people and their centralized government + bores them.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page238" title="238"> </a>June 16.</h2> + + <p>Chinesewise speaking, we are now having + another lull. The three “traitors†have had + their resignations accepted, the cabinet is + undergoing reconstruction, the strike has + been called off, both of students and merchants + (the railwaymen striking was the + last straw), and the mystery is what will + happen next. There are evidences that the + extreme militarists are spitting on their + hands to take hold in spite of their defeat, + and also that the President, who is said to + be a moderate and skillful politician, is nursing + things along to get matters more and + more into his own hands. Although he + issued a mandate against the students and + commending the traitors, the students’ victory + seems to have strengthened him. I + can’t figure it out, but it is part of the general + beginning to read at the back of the + <a class="pagenum" id="page239" title="239"> </a>book. The idea seems to be that he has + demonstrated the weakness of the militarists + in the country, while in sticking in form by + them he has given them no excuse for attacking + him. They are attacking most + everybody else in anonymous circulars. One + was got out signed “Thirteen hundred and + fifty-eight students,†but giving no names, + saying that the sole object of the strike was + to regain Tsingtao, but that a few men had + tried to turn the movement to their own + ends, one wishing to be Chancellor of the + University.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page240" title="240"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 20.</h2> + + <p>Some time ago I had decided to tell you + that here I had found the human duplication + of the bee colony in actual working + order. China is it, and in all particulars + lives up to the perfect socialization of the + race. Nobody can do anything alone, nobody + can do anything in a hurry. The hunt + of the bee for her cell goes on before one’s + eyes all the time. When found, lo, the discovery + that the cell was there all the time. + Let me give you an example.</p> + + <p>We go to the art school for lectures, enter + by a door at the end of a long hall. Behind + that hall is another large room and in back + of the second room somewhere is a place + where the men make the tea. Near the front + door where we enter is the table where we + are always asked to sit down before and + after the lecture, whereat we sit down to + <a class="pagenum" id="page241" title="241"> </a>partake of tea and other beverages, such + as soda. Well, the teacups are kept in a + cabinet at the front end of the first room + right near the entrance door. Comes a + grown man from the rear somewhere; silently + and with stately tread he walks across + the long room to the cabinet, takes one teacup + in each hand and retreads the space + towards the back. After sufficient time he + returns bearing in his two hands these cups + filled with hot tea. He puts these down on + the table for us and then he takes two more + cups from the cabinet, and retires once more, + returning later as before. When bottles + are opened they are brought near the table, + because otherwise the soda would be spoiled + in carrying open, never to save steps.</p> + + <p>The Chinese kitchen is always several + feet from the dining room, under a separate + roof. Often you must cross a court in the + open to get from one to another. As it has + not rained since we have been here, I do not + know what happens to the soup under the + <a class="pagenum" id="page242" title="242"> </a>umbrella. But remember, the beehive is the + thing in China, and it is the old-fashioned + beehive in the barrel. When you look at the + men who are doing it all they have the air + of strong, quiet beings who might do almost + anything, but when you get acquainted with + them, how they do almost nothing is a marvelous + achievement. At Ching Hua College, + said being the famous Boxer Indemnity + College, the houses are new and built + by American initiative, and the kitchen is + forty feet from the dining room door in + those. I will not describe the kitchens, but + when you see the clay stoves crumbling in + places, no sink, and one window on one side + of the rather dark room, a little room where + the cook sleeps on a board and where both + the men eat their own frugal meals, it is all + the Middle Ages undisturbed.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page243" title="243"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 20.</h2> + + <p>Last weekend we went out about ten + miles to Ching Hua College; this is the institution + started with the returned Boxer + Indemnity Fund; it’s a high school with + about two years college work; they have + just graduated sixty or seventy who are + going to America next year to finish up. + They go all around, largely to small colleges + and the Middle West state institutions, a + good many to Tech and a number to + Stevens, though none go to Columbia, because + it is in a big city; just what improvement + Hoboken is I don’t know. China is + full of Columbia men, but they went there + for graduate work. No doubt it is wise + keeping them away from a big city at first. + Except for the instruction in Chinese, the + teaching is all done in English, and the boys + seem to speak English quite well already. + <a class="pagenum" id="page244" title="244"> </a>It’s a shame the way they will be treated, + the insults they will have to put up with in + America before they get really adjusted. + And then when they get back here they have + even a worse time getting readjusted. They + have been idealizing their native land at the + same time that they have got Americanized + without knowing it, and they have a hard + time to get a job to make a living. They + have been told that they are the future + saviors of their country and then their country + doesn’t want them for anything at all—and + they can’t help making comparisons + and realizing the backwardness of China + and its awful problems. At the same time + at the bottom of his heart probably every + Chinese is convinced of the superiority of + Chinese civilization—and maybe they are + right—three thousand years is quite a spell + to hold on.</p> + + <p>You may come over here some time in + your life, so it will do no harm to learn + about the money—<em>about</em> it, nobody but the + <a class="pagenum" id="page245" title="245"> </a>Chinese bankers ever learn it. There are + eleven dimes in a dollar and six twenty-cent + pieces, and while there are only eleven coppers + in a dime, there are one hundred and + thirty-eight in a dollar. Consequently the + thrifty always carry a pound or two of big + coppers with them to pay ’ricksha men with. + Then there are various kinds of paper + money. We are going to Western Hills tomorrow + night, and under instructions I + bought some dollars at sixty-five cents + apiece which are good for a whole dollar on + this railway and apparently nowhere else. + On the contrary, the foreigners are done all + the time at the hotels; there they only give + you five twenty-cent pieces in change for a + dollar, and so on—but they are run by foreigners, + and not by the wily Chinese. One + thing you will be glad to know is that + Peking is Americanized to the extent that + we have ice cream at least once a day, two + big helpings. This helps.</p> + + <p>A word to the wise. Never ask a Chinese + <a class="pagenum" id="page246" title="246"> </a>whether it is going to rain, or any other + question about the coming weather. The + turtle is supposed to be a weather prophet, + and as the turtle is regarded as the vilest + creature on earth, you can see what an insult + such a question is. One of their subtle + compliments to the Japanese during the + late campaign was to take a straw hat, of + Japanese make, which they had removed + from a passerby’s head, and cut it into the + likeness of a turtle and then nail it up on + a telephone post.</p> + + <p>I find, by the way, that I didn’t do the + students justice when I compared their first + demonstration here to a college boys’ roughhouse; + the whole thing was planned carefully, + it seems, and was even pulled off + earlier than would otherwise have been the + case, because one of the political parties was + going to demonstrate soon, and they were + afraid their movement (coming at the same + time) would make it look as if they were an + agency of the political faction, and they + <a class="pagenum" id="page247" title="247"> </a>wanted to act independently as students. + To think of kids in our country from fourteen + on, taking the lead in starting a big + cleanup reform politics movement and + shaming merchants and professional men + into joining them. This is sure some + country.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page248" title="248"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 23.</h2> + + <p>Last night we had a lovely dinner at the + house of a Chinese official. All the guests + were men except me and the fourteen-year-old + daughter of the house. She was educated + in an English school here and speaks beautiful + English, besides being a talented and + interesting girl. Chinese girls at her age + seem older than ours. The family consists + of five children and two wives. I found the + reason the daughter was hostess was that it + was embarrassing to choose between the two + wives for hostess and they didn’t want to + give us a bad impression, so no wife appeared. + We were given to understand that + the reason for the non-appearance was that + mother was sick. There is a new little baby + six weeks old. The father is a delicate, refined + little man, very proud of his children + and fond of them, and they were all brought + <a class="pagenum" id="page249" title="249"> </a>out to see us, even the six weeks older, who + was very hot in a little red dress. Our host + is the leader of a party of liberal progressives, + and also an art collector. We had + hopes he would show us his collection of + things. He did not, except for the lovely + porcelain that was on the table. The house + is big and behind the wall of the Purple City, + as they call the old Forbidden City, and it + looks on the famous old pagoda, so it was + interesting. We sat in the court for coffee + and there seemed to be many more courts + leading on one behind another as they do + here, sometimes fourteen or more, with + chains of houses around each one.</p> + + <p>As for the dinner, I forgot to say that the + cook is a remarkable man, Fukien, who gave + us the most delicious Chinese cookery with + French names attached on the menu. Cooking + is apt to be named geographically here. + Most everyone in Peking came from somewhere + else, just as should be in a capital + city. But they seem to keep the cooks and + <a class="pagenum" id="page250" title="250"> </a>cook in accordance with the predilections of + the old home province. They have adopted + ice cream, showing the natural sense of the + race, but the daughter of our host told me + that they do not give it to the sick, as they + still have the idea that the sick should have + nothing cold.</p> + + <p>They are now thrashing the wheat in this + locality. That consists of cutting it with + the sickle and having the women and children + glean. The main crop is scattered on + the floor, as it is called, being a hard piece + of ground near the house, and then the + wheat is treaded out by a pair of donkeys + attached to a roller about as big as + our garden roller. After it is out of the + husk, it is winnowed by being tossed in the + breeze, which takes the time of a number + of people and leaves in a share of the mother + earth. The crops are very thin round this + region and they say that they are thinner + than usual, as this is a drier year than usual. + Corn is small, but there is some growing between + <a class="pagenum" id="page251" title="251"> </a>here and the hills where we went, + always in the little pieces of ground, of + course. Peanuts and sweet potatoes are + planted now, and they seem to be growing + well in the dust, which has been wet by the + recent day of rain.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page252" title="252"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 25.</h2> + + <p>Simple facts for home consumption. All + boards in China are sawed by hand—two + men and a saw, like a cross-cut buck-saw. + At the new Hotel de Peking, a big building, + instead of carrying window casings + ready to put in, they are carrying big logs + cut the proper length for a casing. Spitting + is a common accomplishment. When a + school girl wants excuse to leave her seat she + walks across the room and spits vigorously + in the spittoon. Little melons are now + ready to eat. They come like ripe cucumbers, + small, rather sweet. Coolies and boys + eat them, skins and all, on the street. Children + eat small green apples. Peaches are + expensive, but those who can get the green + hard ones eat them raw. The potted pomegranates + are now in bloom and also in fruit + in the pots. The color is a wonderful scarlet. + <a class="pagenum" id="page253" title="253"> </a>The lotus ponds are in bloom—wonderful + color in a deep rose. When the buds are + nearly ready to open they look as if they + were about to explode and fill the air with + their intense color. The huge leaves are + brilliant and lovely—light green and delicately + veined. But the lotus was never + made for art, and only religion could have + made it acceptable to art. The sacred ponds + are well kept and are in the old moats of + the Purple City—Forbidden. There are + twice as many men in Peking as women.</p> + + <p>Sunday we went to a Chinese wedding. + It was at the Naval Club—no difference in + appearance from our ceremony. Bride and + groom both in the conventional foreign + dress. They had a ring. At the supper + there were six tables full of men, and three + partly full of women and children. Women + take their children and their amahs everywhere + in China—I mean wherever they go + and provided they want to; it is the custom. + None of the men spoke to the women at the + <a class="pagenum" id="page254" title="254"> </a>wedding—except rare returned students. + Eggs cost $1.00 for 120—we get all we + want in our boarding house. Men take + birds out for walks—either in cages or with + one leg tied to a string attached to a stick + on which the bird perches.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page255" title="255"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, June 27.</h2> + + <p>It’s a wonder we were ever let out of + Japan at all. It’s fatal; I could now tell + after reading ten lines of the writings of any + traveler whether he ever journeyed beyond + a certain point. You have to hand it to the + Japanese. Their country is beautiful, their + treatment of visitors is beautiful, and they + have the most artistic knack of making the + visible side of everything beautiful, or at + least attractive. Deliberate deceit couldn’t + be one-tenth as effective; it’s a real gift of + art. They are the greatest manipulators of + the outside of things that ever lived. I realized + when I was there that they were a nation + of specialists, but I didn’t realize that + foreign affairs and diplomacy were also such + a specialized art.</p> + + <p>The new acting Minister of Education has + invited us to dinner soon. This man doesn’t + appear to have any past educational record, + <a class="pagenum" id="page256" title="256"> </a>but he has pursued a conciliatory course; the + other one resigned and disappeared when he + found he couldn’t control things. The + really liberal element does not appear to be + strong enough at present to influence politics + practically. The struggle is between + the extreme militarists, who are said to be + under Japanese influence, and the group of + somewhat colorless moderates headed by the + President. As he gets a chance he appears + to be putting his men in. The immediate + gain seems to be negative in keeping the + other crowd out instead of positive, but they + are at least honest and will probably respond + when there is enough organized liberal + pressure brought to bear upon them.</p> + + <p>It cannot be denied that it is hot here. + Yesterday we went out in ’rickshas about the + middle of the day and I don’t believe I ever + felt such heat. It is like the Yosemite, only + considerably more intense as well as for + longer periods of time. The only consolation + one gets from noting that it isn’t humid + <a class="pagenum" id="page257" title="257"> </a>is that if it were, one couldn’t live at all. + But the desert sands aren’t moist either. + Your mother asked the coolie why he didn’t + wear a hat, and he said because it was too + hot. Think of pulling a person at the rate + of five or six miles an hour in the sun of a + hundred and twenty or thirty with your + head exposed. Most of the coolies who + work in the sun have nothing on their heads. + It’s either survival of the fittest or inheritance + of acquired characteristics. Their + adaptation to every kind of physical discomfort + is certainly one of the wonders of the + world. You ought to see the places where + they lie down to go to sleep. They have it + all over Napoleon. This is also the country + of itinerant domesticity. I doubt if lots of + the ’ricksha men have any places to sleep + except in their carts. And a large part of + the population must buy their food of the + street pedlars, who sell every conceivable + cooked thing; then there are lots of cooked + food stores besides the street men.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page258" title="258"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 2.</h2> + + <p>The rainy season has set in, and now we + have floods and also coolness, the temperature + having fallen from the late nineties to + the early seventies, and life seems more + worth living again.</p> + + <p>This is a great country for pictures, and + I am most anxious for one of a middle-aged + Chinese, inclining to be fat, with a broad-brimmed + straw hat, sitting on the back of a + very small and placid cream colored donkey. + He is fanning himself as the donkey moves + imperceptibly along the highway, is satisfied + with himself and at ease with the world, + and everything in the world, whatever happens. + This would be a good frontispiece + for a book on China—and the joke wouldn’t + all be on the Chinese either.</p> + + <p>To-day the report is that the Chinese + delegates refused to sign the Paris treaty; + <a class="pagenum" id="page259" title="259"> </a>the news seems too good to be true, but nobody + can learn the facts. There are also + rumors that the governmental military + party, having got everything almost out of + Japan that is coming to them and finding + themselves on the unpopular side, are about + to forget that they ever knew the Japanese + and to come out very patriotic. This is also + unconfirmed, but I suppose the only reason + they would stay bought in any case is that + there are no other bidders in the market.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page260" title="260"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, Wednesday, July 2.</h2> + + <p>The anxiety here is tense. The report is + that the delegates did not sign, but so + vaguely worded as to leave conjectures and + no confirmation. Meanwhile the students’ + organizations, etc., have begun another attack + against the government by demanding + the dissolution of Parliament. Meantime + there is no cabinet and the President can get + no one to form one, and half those inside + seem to be also on the strike because the + other half are there.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page261" title="261"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 4.</h2> + + <p>We are going out to the Higher Normal + this morning. The head of the industrial + department is going to take us. The students + are erecting three new school buildings + this summer—they made the plans, designs, + details, and are supervising the erection + as well as doing the routine carpenter + work. The head of the industrial department, + who acted as our guide and host, has + been organizing the “national industry†+ activity in connection with the students’ agitation. + He is now, among other things, trying + to organize apprentice schools under + guild control. The idea is to take the brightest + apprentice available in each “factoryâ€â€”really, + of course, just a household group—and + give them two hours’ schooling a day + with a view to introducing new methods and + new products into the industry. They are + <a class="pagenum" id="page262" title="262"> </a>going to take metal working here. Then he + hopes it will spread all over China. You + cannot imagine the industrial backwardness + here, not only as compared with us but with + Japan. Consequently their markets here + are flooded with cheap flimsy Japan-made + stuff, which they buy because it’s cheap, the + line of least resistance. But perhaps the + Shantung business will be worth its cost. + The cotton guild is very anxious to co-operate + and they will supply capital if the + schools can guarantee skilled workingmen, + especially superintendents. Now they sell + four million worth of cotton to Japan, + where it is spun, and then buy back the same + cotton in thread for fourteen million—which + they weave. This is beside the large + amount of woven cotton goods they import.</p> + + <p>I find in reading books that the Awakening + of China has been announced a dozen or + more times by foreign travelers in the last + ten years, so I hesitate to announce it again, + but I think this is the first time the merchants + <a class="pagenum" id="page263" title="263"> </a>and guilds have really been actively + stirred to try to improve industrial methods. + And if so, it <em>is</em> a real awakening—that and + the combination with the students. I read + the translations from Japanese every few + days, and it would be very interesting to + know whether their ignorance is real or assumed. + Probably some of both—it is inconceivable + that they should be as poor + judges of Chinese psychology as the articles + indicate. But at the same time they have + to keep up a certain tone of belief among + the people at home—namely, that the Chinese + really prefer the Japanese to all other + foreigners; for they realize their dependence + upon them, and if they do not make + common cause with them it is because foreigners, + chiefly Americans, instigate it all + from mercenary and political motives. As + a matter of fact, I doubt if history knows + of any such complete case of national dislike + and distrust; it sometimes seems as if there + hadn’t been a single thing that the Japanese + <a class="pagenum" id="page264" title="264"> </a>might have done to alienate the Chinese that + they haven’t tried. The Chinese would feel + pretty sore at America for inviting them + into the war and then leaving them in the + lurch, if the Japanese papers and politicians + hadn’t spent all their time the last three + months abusing America—then their sweet + speeches in America. It will be interesting + to watch and see just what particular string + they trip on finally.</p> + + <p>It’s getting to the end of an Imperfect + Day. We saw the school as per program + and I find I made a mistake. The boys + made the plans of the three buildings and + are supervising their erection, but not doing + the building. They are staying in school all + summer, however—those in the woodworking + class—and have taken a contract for + making all the desks for the new buildings—the + school gives them room and board (food + and its preparation costs about five dollars + per month), and they practically give their + time. All the metal-working boys are staying + <a class="pagenum" id="page265" title="265"> </a>in Peking and working in the shops to + improve and diversify the products. Remember + these are boys, eighteen to twenty, + and that they are carrying on their propaganda + for their country; that the summer + averages one hundred in the shade in Peking, + and you’ll admit there is some stuff + here.</p> + + <p>This <span class="smaller">P.M.</span> we went to a piece of the celebration. + The piece we saw wasn’t so very + Fourth of Julyish, but it was interesting—Chinese + sleight of hand. Their long robe + is an advantage, but none the less it can’t be + so very easy to move about with a very large + sized punch bowl filled to the brim with + water, or with five glass bowls each with a + gold fish in it, ready to bring out. It seems + that sometimes the artist turns a somersault + just as he brings out the big bowl of water, + but we didn’t get that. None of the tricks + were complicated, but they were the neatest + I ever saw. There is a home-made minstrel + show to-night, but it rained, and as the show + <a class="pagenum" id="page266" title="266"> </a>(and dance later) are in the open, we aren’t + going, as we intended.</p> + + <p>You can’t imagine what it means here for + China not to have signed. The entire government + has been for it—the President up + to ten days before the signing said it was + necessary. It was a victory for public + opinion, and all set going by these little + schoolboys and girls. Certainly the United + States ought to be ashamed when China can + do a thing of this sort.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page267" title="267"> </a>Sunday, July 7.</h2> + + <p>We had quite another ride yesterday, + sixty or seventy miles altogether. The reason + for the macadam road is worth telling. + When Yuan Shi Kai was planning to be + Emperor his son broke his leg, and he heard + the hot springs would be good for him. So + one of the officials made a road to it. Some + of the present day officials, including an ex-official + who was recently forced to resign + after being beaten up, now own the springs + and hotel, so the road will continue to be + taken care of. On the way we went through + the village of the White Snake and also of + the One Hundred Virtues.</p> + + <p>Y. M. C. A.’s and Red Crossers are still + coming from Siberia on their way home. I + don’t know whether they will talk freely + when they get home. It is one mess, and + the stories they will tell won’t improve our + <a class="pagenum" id="page268" title="268"> </a>foreign relations any. The Bolsheviki + aren’t the only ones that shoot up villages + and take the loot—so far the Americans + haven’t done it.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page269" title="269"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 8.</h2> + + <p>This morning the papers here reported + the denial of Japan that she had made a + secret treaty with Germany. The opinion + here seems to be that they did not, but + merely that preliminaries had begun with + reference to such a treaty. We heard at + dinner the other day from responsible + American officials here that, after America + had completed the last of the arrangements + for China to go into the war, the Japanese + arranged to get a concession from Russia + for the delivery on the part of the Japanese + of China into the war on the side of the + Allies.</p> + + <p>Well, the Japanese are still at it with the + cat out of the bag. It looks now as if they + are getting ready to break up the present + government in Japan. This is interpreted + to mean that that breakup will be made to + <a class="pagenum" id="page270" title="270"> </a>look as if it were in disapproval of the present + mistakes in diplomacy and of the price + of rice; and then they can put in a worse + one there and the world will not know the + difference, but will be made to think that + Japan is reforming. Speaking of constitutionality + in Japan, I ceased to worry about + that as soon as I learned the older statesmen + never troubled at all about who was + elected, but just let the elections go through, + as their business was so assured in other + ways that the elections made no difference + anyway, and that the same principle worked + equally well in the matter of passing bills. No + bill can ever come up without the approval + of the powers that be and they know how + it is coming out in spite of all discussions. + No wonder change comes slowly and maybe + it will have to come all at once in the form + of a revolution if it comes in reality. It is + now reported that Tsai, the Chancellor of + the University here, has said he will come + back on condition that the students do not + <a class="pagenum" id="page271" title="271"> </a>move in future in any political matter without + his consent, and I am not able to guess + whether that is a concession or a clever way + of seeming to agree with both sides at once. + The announcement of Tsai’s return means + that things will soon be back in normal + shape and ready for another upheaval.</p> + + <p>We seem to be utterly stumped by the + house situation. All the members of the + Rockefeller Foundation get nice new houses + built for them, and the houses are nice new + Chinese ones but free from the poor qualities + of those to be rented here. All the + houses in Peking are built like our woodsheds, + directly on the ground, raised a few + inches from actual contact with the earth + by a stone floor. The courts fill with water + when the rains are hard and then they are + moist for days, maybe weeks, and about two + feet of wet seeps up the side of the walls. + Yesterday we called on one of our Chinese + friends here, and the whole place was in that + state, but he did not seem to notice it. If + <a class="pagenum" id="page272" title="272"> </a>he wants baths in the house it doubles the + cost he pays the water wagon, and then after + all the trouble of heating and carrying the + water there is no way to dispose of the + waste, except to get a man to come and + carry it away in buckets. You would have + endless occupation here just looking on to + see how this bee colony can find so many + ways of making life hard for itself. A gentleman + at the Foundation has just been telling + us how the coolies steal every little piece + of metal, leftovers or screwed on, that they + can get at. The privation of life sets up an + entirely new set of standards for morals. + No one, it appears, can be convicted for + stealing food in China.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page273" title="273"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 8.</h2> + + <p>The Rockefeller buildings are lovely samples + of what money can do. In the midst + of this worn and weak city they stand out + like illuminating monuments of the splendor + of the past in proper combination with + the modern idea. They are in the finest old + style of Chinese architecture; green roofs + instead of yellow, with three stories instead + of one. One wonders how long it will take + China to catch up and know what they are + doing. It is said the Chinese are not at all + inclined to go to their hospital for fear of + the ultra foreign methods which they do not + yet understand. On the other hand, there + is no disposition on the part of the Institution + to meet them half way as the missionaries + have always done. There are a number + of Chinese among the doctors and they + have now opened all the work to the women. + <a class="pagenum" id="page274" title="274"> </a>There is a great need for women doctors + now in China, but evidently it will take a + generation yet before this work will begin + to be understood and will take its natural + place in Chinese affairs. It is rather amusing + that this splendid set of buildings quite + surrounds and overshadows the biggest + Japanese hospital and school that is in Peking, + and they say the fact has quite humiliated + the Japanese. At present the buildings + are nearing completion, but all the old + rubbishy structures of former times will + have to be pulled down before these new + ones can be seen in all their beauty. Among + other things, they have built thirty-five + houses also in Chinese style but with all the + modern comforts, in which to house their + faculty, and in addition to those there are + a good many buildings which were taken + over from the old medical missionary College, + besides, perhaps, some that will be left + from the palace of the Prince whose property + they bought. Two fine old lions are an + <a class="pagenum" id="page275" title="275"> </a>addition from the Prince, but no foreign + family would stand the inconveniences and + discomforts of the ancient Prince, in spite + of all his wives.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page276" title="276"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 11.</h2> + + <p>They have the best melons here you ever + saw. Their watermelons, which are sold on + the street in such quantities as to put even + the southern negroes to shame, are just like + yellow ice cream in color, but they aren’t as + juicy as ours. Their musk melons aren’t + spicy like the ones at home at all, but are + shaped like pears, only bigger and have an + acid taste; in fact they are more like a cucumber + with a little acid pep in them, only + the seeds are all in the center like our + melons. When you get macaroons and little + cakes here in straight Chinese houses you + realize that neither we nor the Europeans + were the first to begin eating. They either + boil or steam their bread—they eat wheat + instead of rice in this part of the country—or + fry it, and I have no doubt that doughnuts + were brought home to grandma by + <a class="pagenum" id="page277" title="277"> </a>some old seafaring captain. These things + are all the stranger because, except for + sponge cake, no such things are indigenous + to Japan. So when you first get here you + can hardly resist the impression that these + things have been brought to China from + America or Europe. Read a book called + “Two Heroes of Cathay,†by Luella Miner, + and see how our country has treated some of + these people in the past, and then you see + them so fond of America and of Americans + and you realize that in some ways they are + ahead of us in what used to be known as + Christianity before the war. I guess we + wrote you from Hangchow about seeing the + monument and shrine to two Chinese officials + who were torn in pieces at the time of + the Boxer rebellion because they changed a + telegram to the provincial officers “Kill all + foreigners†to read “Protect all foreigners.†+ The shrine is kept up, of course, by + the Chinese, and very few foreigners in + China even know of the incident.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page278" title="278"> </a>Their art is really childlike and all the + new kinds of artists in America who think + being queer is being primitive ought to come + over here and study the Chinese in their + native abodes. A great love of bright colors + and a wonderful knowledge of how to combine + them, a comparatively few patterns + used over and over in all kinds of ways, and + a preference for designs that illustrate some + story or idea or that appeal to their sense of + the funny—it’s a good deal more childlike + than what passes in Greenwich Village for + the childlike in art.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page279" title="279"> </a>Y.M.C.A., <em class="location">Peking</em>, July 17.</h2> + + <p>A young Korean arrived here in the evening + and he was met here on our porch by a + Chinese citizen who is also Korean. The + newly arrived could speak very little English + and by means of a triangle we were able + to arrive at his story. It seems there is quite + a leakage of Korean students over the Chinese + border all the time. To become a + Chinese student requires six years of residence, + or else it was three; anyway enough + to postpone the idea of going to America to + study till rather late in case one wants to + resort to that way of escape from Japanese + oppression. The elder and the one who has + become a Chinese citizen seemed a good deal + excited; I fancy they are dramatic by nature, + and made many gestures. He urged + on me the importance of our going to Korea + and he is going to bring us some pictures to + <a class="pagenum" id="page280" title="280"> </a>look at. Well, it all set me thinking, and so + I have been reading the Korean guide book + and reflecting on the wonderful climate + there and wondering if we can get a reasonable + place to stay. My first discovery + of the real seriousness of the Korean situation + came across me in Japan early in + March, when we had a holiday on account + of the funeral of the Korean prince, for + the reason that after the funeral and gradually + in connection with it the <i>Japanese + Advertiser</i> said it was rumored that the old + Korean prince had committed suicide. + Doubtless you may know the story there, + and then again you may not. However, + the facts have leaked one way and another + and now it is known that the old man did + commit suicide in order to prevent the marriage + of the young prince, who has been + brought up in Japan, to the Japanese + princess. By etiquette his death, taking + place three days or so before the date set + for the wedding, prevented the marriage + <a class="pagenum" id="page281" title="281"> </a>from taking place for two years, and it is + hoped by the Koreans that before two years + they could weaken the Japanese grip on + Korea. We all know they have made a beginning + since last March and the suicide did + something to help that along. Now that + Japan is advertising political reforms in + Korea she would probably count on that + reputation again to cover her real activities + and intentions with the world at large for + some time to come. The Japanese are like + the Italian Padrones or other skillful newly + rich; they have learned the western efficiency + and in that they are at least a generation + ahead of their neighbors. New knowledge + to take advantage of the old experience + which she has moved away from and understands + so well, to make that experience contribute + all it has towards building up and + strengthening the new riches of herself. + The excuse is the one of the short and easy + road to success though in the long run it + is destructive in its bearings. But a certain + <a class="pagenum" id="page282" title="282"> </a>physical efficiency is what Japan surely has + and she has made that go a little further + than it really can go. It is just one more + evidence of the failure of the Peace Conference + to comprehend the excuses that + Wilson is making for the concessions he has + granted to the practical needs, as he calls + them. We are now getting the first echoes + from his speeches here.</p> + + <p>When I reflect on the changed aspect of + our minds and on the facts that we have + become accustomed to gradually since coming + here I realize we have much to explain + to you which now seems a matter of course + over here. We discovered from reading an + old back number somewhere that an American + traveler had been given the order of the + Royal Treasure in Japan when he was + there. This order is said to be bestowed on + the Japanese alone. Before he received it + he had made a public speech to the effect + that as China was down and out and needed + some protector it was natural that Japan + <a class="pagenum" id="page283" title="283"> </a>should be that, as by all historical reasons + she was fitted to be. It appears to be true + that the Militarists here who are causing the + trouble for China and who are able to hold + the government on account of foreign support + have that idea so far as the “natural†+ goes. The great man of China to-day is + Hsu, commonly known as Little Hsu, which + is a good nickname in English, Little Shoe. + He has never been in the western hemisphere + and he thinks it is better for China to + give a part of her territory to the Japanese + who will help them, than to hope for anything + from the other foreigners, who only + want to exploit them, and if once China can + get a stable government with the aid of the + Japanese militarists, then after that she can + build herself into a nation. Meantime Little + Shoe has gained by a sad fluke in the + legislature the appointment of Military + Dictator of Mongolia, and this means he is + given full power to use his army for agricultural + and any other enterprises he may + <a class="pagenum" id="page284" title="284"> </a>choose. It means, in short, that he is absolute + dictator of all Mongolia which is retained + by China and which is bordered by + Eastern Inner Mongolia which Japan controls + under the twenty-one Demands by a + ninety-nine-year lease under the same absolute + conditions. These last few days since + that act was consummated, nothing is happening + so far as the public knows, and according + to friends the government can go + on indefinitely here with no cabinet and no + responsibility to react to the public demands. + The bulk of the nation is against + this state of affairs, but with the support of + foreigners and the lack of organization there + is nothing to do but stand it and see the + nation sold out to Japan and other grabbers. + If you can get at <cite>Millard’s Review</cite>, look + at it and read especially the recent act of the + Foreign Council which licensed the press—I + mean they passed an Act to do so. Fortunately + the Act is not legal and will not be + ratified by the Chinese Council at Shanghai.</p> + + <p><a class="pagenum" id="page285" title="285"> </a>To this house come the officers of the Y. + M.C.A. who are on the way home from + Siberia and other places. The stories one + hears here are full of horror and always the + same. Our men are too few to accomplish + anything and the whole affair is not any of + our business anyway. Anyway the Canadians + have a sense of virtue in getting out of + it and going home, and well they may, say I. + The Japanese have had 70,000 there at least + and they may have shipped many more than + that, for they have such a command of the + railroads that there is no way of keeping + track of them. I believe the conviction is + they are taking in men according to their + own judgment of the case all the time. + Everybody agrees that the Japanese soldiers + are hated by all the others and have + generally proved themselves disagreeable, + the Chinese being thoroughly liked.</p> + + <p>Meantime the dissatisfaction in Japan + over rice in particular and food in general + is quite evidently becoming more and more + <a class="pagenum" id="page286" title="286"> </a>acute. And it is interesting to read the interviews + with Count Ishii which all end up + in the same way, that the fear of bomb-throwers + in the United States is becoming a + very serious alarm among all. The Anti-American + agitation was hard for us to understand + while we were there, but its meaning + is less obscure now. Will it be effective? + Is another world war already preparing? + It is said here that the students were very + successful during the strike in converting + soldiers to their ideas. The boys at the High + Normal said they were disappointed when + they were let out of jail at the University + because they had not converted more than + half the soldiers. The guards around those + boys were changed every four hours.</p> + + <p>It is raining most of the time and it is + typical of the Chinese character that my + teacher did not come because of the rain. + You have to remember he never takes a + ’ricksha, though he might have looked at it + that it was better to pay a man than to lose + <a class="pagenum" id="page287" title="287"> </a>the lesson. The mud in the roads here is + much like the old days on Long Island + before the gravel was put there, only it is + softer and more slippery here, and the water + stands.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page288" title="288"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 17.</h2> + + <p>We are pleased to learn that the Japanese + censor hasn’t detained all our letters, + though since you call them incoherent there + must be some gaps. I’m sure we never + write anything incoherent if you get it all. + The course of events has been a trifle incoherent + if you don’t sit up and hold its + hands all the time. Since China didn’t sign + the peace treaty things have quite settled + down here, however, and the lack of excitement + after living on aerated news for a + couple of months is quite a letdown. However, + we live in hopes of revolution or a coup + d’état or some other little incident to liven + up the dog days.</p> + + <p>You will be pleased to know that the + University Chancellor—see letters of early + May—has finally announced that he will return + to the University. It is supposed that + <a class="pagenum" id="page289" title="289"> </a>the Government has assented to his conditions, + among which is that the police won’t + interfere with the students, but will leave + discipline to the University authorities. To + resign and run away in order to be coaxed + back is an art. It’s too bad Wilson never + studied it. The Chinese peace delegates reported + back here that Lloyd George inquired + what the twenty-one Demands were, + as he had never heard of them. However, + the Chinese hold Balfour as most responsible. + In order to avoid any incoherence I + will add that a Chinese servant informed a + small boy in the household of one of our + friends here that the Chinese are much more + cleanly than the foreigners, for they have + people come to them to clean their ears and + said cleaners go way down in. This is an + unanswerable argument.</p> + + <p>I hear your mother downstairs engaged + on the fascinating task of trying to make + Chinese tones. I may tell you that there + are only four hundred spoken words in + <a class="pagenum" id="page290" title="290"> </a>Chinese, all monosyllables. But each one of + these is spoken in a different tone, there + being four tones in this part of the country + and increasing as you go south till in Canton + there are twelve or more. In writing there + are only 214 radicals, which are then combined + and mixed up in all sorts of ways. + My last name here is Du, my given name is + Wei. The Du is made up of two characters, + one of which means tree and the other earth. + They are written separately. Then Wei is + made up of some more characters mixed up + together, one character for woman and one + for dart, and I don’t know what else. Don’t + ask me how they decided that earth and tree + put together made Du, for I can’t tell.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page291" title="291"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 19.</h2> + + <p>I met the tutor, the English tutor, of the + young Manchu Emperor, the other day—he + has three Chinese tutors besides. He teaches + him Math., Sciences, etc., besides English, + which he has been doing for three months. + It is characteristic of the Chinese that they + not only didn’t kill any of the royal family, + but they left them one of the palaces in the + Imperial City and an income of four million + dollars Mex. a year, and within this palace + the kid who is now thirteen is still Emperor, + is called that, and is waited upon by the + eunuch attendants who crawl before him on + their hands and knees. At the same time he + is, of course, practically a prisoner, being + allowed to see his father and his younger + brother once a month. Otherwise he has no + children to play with at all. There is some + romance left in China after all if you want + <a class="pagenum" id="page292" title="292"> </a>to let your imagination play about this + scene. The tutors don’t kneel, although they + address him as Your Majesty, or whatever + it is in Chinese, and they walk in and he + remains standing until the tutor is seated. + This is the old custom, which shows the + reverence in which even the old Tartars + must have held education and learning. He + has a Chinese garden in which to walk, but + no place to ride or for sports. The tutor is + trying to get the authorities to send him to + the country, let him have playmates and + sports, and also abolish the eunuch—but he + seems to think they will more likely abolish + him. The kid is quite bright, reads all the + newspapers and is much interested in politics, + keeps track of the Paris Conference, + knows about the politicians in all the countries, + and in short knows a good deal more + about world politics than most boys of his + age; also he is a good classical Chinese + scholar. The Chinese don’t seem to worry + at all about the boy’s becoming the center of + <a class="pagenum" id="page293" title="293"> </a>intrigue and plots, but I imagine they sort + of keep him in reserve with the idea that + unless the people want monarchy back he + never can do anything, while if they do let + him back it will be the will of heaven.</p> + + <p>I am afraid I haven’t sufficiently impressed + it upon you that this is the rainy + season. It was impressed upon us yesterday + afternoon, when the side street upon + which we live was a flowing river a foot and + a half deep. The main street on which the + Y. M. C. A. building is situated was a solid + lake from housewall to housewall, though + not more than six inches or so. But the + street is considerably wider than Broadway, + so it was something of a sight. Peking has + for many hundred years had sewers big + enough for a man to stand up in, but they + don’t carry fast enough. Probably about + this time you will be reading cables from + some part of China about floods and the + number of homeless. The Yellow River + is known as the curse of China, so much + <a class="pagenum" id="page294" title="294"> </a>damage is done. We were told that when + the missionaries went down to do flood relief + work a year or so ago, they were so busy + that they didn’t have time to preach, and + they did so much good that when they were + through they had to put up the bars to keep + the Chinese from joining the churches en + masse. We haven’t heard, however, that + they took the hint as to the best way of + doing business. These floods go back + largely if not wholly to the policy of the + Chinese in stripping the forests. If you + were to see the big coffins they are buried + in and realize the large part of China’s scant + forests that must go into coffins you would + favor a law that no man could die until he + had planted a tree for his coffin and one + extra.</p> + + <p>One of our new friends here is quite an + important politician, though quite out of it + just now. He told a story last night + which tickled the Chinese greatly. The + Japanese minister here haunted the President + <a class="pagenum" id="page295" title="295"> </a>and Prime Minister while the peace + negotiations were on, and every day on the + strength of what they told him cabled the + Tokyo government that the Chinese delegates + were surely going to sign. Now he is + in a somewhat uncomfortable position making + explanations to the home government. + He sent a representative after they didn’t + sign to the above-mentioned friend to ask + him whether the government had been fooling + him all the time. He replied No, but + that the Japanese should remember that + there was one power greater than the government, + namely, the people, and that the + delegates had obeyed the people. The Japanese + will never be able to make up their + minds though whether they were being deliberately + deceived or not. The worst of the + whole thing, however, is that even intelligent + Chinese are relying upon war between + the United States and Japan, and when + they find out that the United States won’t + go to war just on China’s account, there + <a class="pagenum" id="page296" title="296"> </a>will be some kind of a revulsion. But if + the United States had used its power when + the war closed to compel disarmament and + get some kind of a just settlement, there + would be no limit to its influence over here. + As it is, they infer that the moral is that + Might Controls, and that adds enormously + to the moral power of Japan as against the + United States. It is even plainer here than + at home that if the United States wasn’t + going to see its “ideals†through, it + shouldn’t have professed any, but if it did + profess them it ought to have made good on + ’em even if we had to fight the whole world. + However, our financial pressure, and the + threat of withholding food and raw materials + would have enabled Wilson to put + anything over.</p> + + <p>Another little incident is connected with + the Chancellor of the University. Although + he is not a politician at all, the Militarist + party holds him responsible for their recent + trials and the student outbreaks. So, although + <a class="pagenum" id="page297" title="297"> </a>it announced that the Chancellor + is coming back, the Anfu Club, the parliamentary + organization of the militarists, is + still trying to keep him out. The other night + they gave a banquet to some University students + and bribed them to start something. + At the end they gave each one dollar extra + for ’ricksha hire the next day, so there would + be no excuse for not going to the meeting + at the University. Fifteen turned up, but + the spies on the other side heard something + was going on and they rang the bell, collected + about a hundred and locked the + bribees in. Then they kept them in till they + confessed the whole story (and put their + names to a written confession) and turned + over their resolutions and mimeographed + papers which had been prepared for them + in which they said they were really the majority + of the students and did not want the + Chancellor back, and that a noisy minority + had imposed on the public, etc. The next + day the Anfu papers told about an awful + <a class="pagenum" id="page298" title="298"> </a>riot at the University, and how a certain + person had instigated and led it, although + he hadn’t been at the University at all that + day.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page299" title="299"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, July 24.</h2> + + <p>We expect to go to Manchuria, probably + in September, and in October to Shansi, + which is quite celebrated now because they + have a civil governor who properly devotes + himself to his job, and they are said to have + sixty per cent or more of the children in + school and to be prepared for compulsory + education in 1920. It is the ease with which + the Chinese do these things without any foreign + assistance which makes you feel so + hopeful for China on the one hand, and + so disgusted on the other that they put + up so patiently with inefficiency and graft + most of the time. There seems to be a + general impression that the present situation + cannot continue indefinitely, but must + take a turn one way or another. The student + agitation has died down as an active + political thing but continues intellectually. + <a class="pagenum" id="page300" title="300"> </a>In Tientsin, for example, they publish several + daily newspapers which sell for a copper + apiece. A number of students have + been arrested in Shantung lately by the + Japanese, so I suppose the students are + actively busy there. I fancy that when vacation + began there was quite an exodus in + that direction.</p> + + <p>I am told that <span class="keep_together">X——,</span> our Japanese + friend, is much disgusted with the Chinese + about the Shantung business—that Japan + has promised to return Shantung, etc., and + that Japan can’t do it until China gets a + stable government to take care of things, because + their present governments are so weak + that China would simply give away her territory + to some other power, and that the Chinese + instead of attacking the Japanese ought + to mind their own business and set their own + house in order. There is enough truth in this + so that it isn’t surprising that so intelligent + and liberal a person as <span class="keep_together">X——</span> is taken in by + it. But what such Japanese as he cannot + <a class="pagenum" id="page301" title="301"> </a>realize, because the truth is never told to + them, is how responsible the Japanese government + is for fostering a weak and unrepresentative + government here, and what a + temptation to it a weak and divided China + will continue to be, for it will serve indefinitely + as an excuse for postponing the return + of Shantung—as well as for interfering + elsewhere. Anyone who knows the least + thing about not only general disturbances + in China but special causes of friction between + China and Japan, can foresee that + there will continue to be a series of plausible + excuses for postponing the return promised—and + anyway, as a matter of fact, what she + has actually promised to return compared + with the rights she would keep in her possession + amount to little or nothing. Just + this last week there was a clash in Manchuria + and fifteen or twenty Japanese soldiers + are reported killed by Chinese—there + will always be incidents of that kind which + will have to be settled first. If the other + <a class="pagenum" id="page302" title="302"> </a>countries would only surrender their special + concessions to the keeping of an international + guarantee, they could force the hand + of Japan, but I can’t see Great Britain giving + up Hong Kong. On the whole, however, + Great Britain, next to us, and barring + the opium business, has been the most decent + of all the great powers in dealing with + China. I started out with a prejudice to + the contrary, and have been surprised to + learn how little grabbing England has + actually done here. Of course, India is the + only thing she really cares about and her + whole policy here is controlled by that consideration, + with such incidental trade advantages + as she can pick up.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page303" title="303"> </a>(Later) July 27.</h2> + + <p>I think I wrote a while back about a + little kid five years old or so who walked + up the middle aisle at one of my lectures + and stood for about fifteen minutes quite + close to me, gazing at me most seriously and + also wholly unembarrassed. Night before + last we went to a Chinese restaurant for + dinner, under the guardianship of a friend + here. A little boy came into our coop and + began most earnestly addressing me in Chinese. + Out friend found out that he was + asking me if I knew his third uncle. He + was the kid of the lecture who had recognized + me as the lecturer, and whose third + uncle is now studying at Columbia. If you + meet <span class="keep_together">Mr. T——</span> congratulate him for me on + his third nephew. The boy made us several + calls during the evening, all equally serious + and unconstrained. At one he asked me for + <a class="pagenum" id="page304" title="304"> </a>my card, which he carefully wrapped up in + ceremonial paper. The restaurant is near + a lotus pond and they are now in their fullest + bloom. I won’t describe them beyond + saying that the lotus is the lotus and advising + you to come out next summer and see + them.</p> + + <h2><a class="pagenum" id="page305" title="305"> </a><em class="location">Peking</em>, August 4.</h2> + + <p>I went to Tientsin to an educational conference + for two days last week. It was called + by the Commissioner of this Province for all + the principals of the higher schools to discuss + the questions connected with the opening + of the schools in the fall. Most of the + heads of schools are very conservative and + were much opposed to the students’ strikes, + and also to the students’ participation in + politics. They are very nervous and timorous + about the opening of the schools, for + they think that the students after engaging + in politics all summer won’t lend themselves + readily to school discipline—their high + schools, etc., are all boarding schools—and + will want to run the schools after having run + the government for several months. The + liberal minority, while they want the students + <a class="pagenum" id="page306" title="306"> </a>to settle down to school work, think + that the students’ experiences will have been + of great educational value and that they will + come back with a new social viewpoint, and + the teaching ought to be changed—and also + the methods of school discipline—to meet + the new situation.</p> + + <p>I had a wonderful Chinese lunch at a private + high school one day there. The school + was started about fifteen years ago in a private + house with six pupils; now they have + twenty acres of land, eleven hundred pupils, + and are putting up a first college building + to open a freshman class of a hundred this + fall—it’s of high school grade now, all Chinese + support and management, and non-missionary + or Christian, although the principal + is an active Christian and thinks + Christ’s teachings the only salvation for + China. The chief patron is a non-English + speaking, non-Christian scholar of the old + type—but with modern ideas. The principal + said that when three of them two years + <a class="pagenum" id="page307" title="307"> </a>ago went around the world on an educational + trip, this old scholar among them, the + United States Government gave them a + special secret service detective from New + York to San Francisco, and this man was + so impressed with the old Chinese gentleman + that he said: “What kind of education can + produce such a man as that, the finest gentleman + I ever saw. You western educated + gentlemen are spoiled in comparison with + him.†They certainly have the world beat + in courtesy of manners—as much politeness + as the Japanese but with much less + manner, so it seems more natural. However, + this type is not very common. I asked + the principal what the effect of the missionary + teaching was on the Chinese passivity + and non-resistance. He said it differed very + much as between Americans and English + and among Americans between the older + and the younger lot. The latter, especially + the Y. M. C. A., have given up the non-interventionalist + point of view and take the + <a class="pagenum" id="page308" title="308"> </a>ground that Christianity ought to change + social conditions. The Y. M. C. A. is, he + says, a group of social workers rather than + of missionaries in the old-fashioned sense—all + of which is quite encouraging. Perhaps + the Chinese will be the ones to rejuvenate + Christianity by dropping its rot, wet and + dry, and changing it into a social religion. + The principal is a Teachers College man + and one of the most influential educators in + China. He speaks largely in picturesque + metaphor, and I’m sorry I can’t remember + what he said. Among other things, in + speaking of the energy of the Japanese and + the inertia of the Chinese, he said the former + were mercury, affected by every change + about them, and the latter cotton wool that + the heat didn’t warm and cold didn’t freeze. + He confirmed my growing idea, however, + that the conservatism of the Chinese was + much more intellectual and deliberate, and + less mere routine clinging to custom, than + I used to suppose. Consequently, when + <a class="pagenum" id="page309" title="309"> </a>their ideas do change, the people will change + more thoroughly, more all the way through, + than the Japanese.</p> + + <p>It seems that the present acting Minister + of Education was allowed to take office under + three conditions—that he should dissolve the + University, prevent the Chancellor from returning, + and dismiss all the present heads + of the higher schools here. He hasn’t been + able, of course, to accomplish one, and the + Anfu Club is correspondingly sore. He is + said to be a slick politician, and when he has + been at dinner with our liberal friends he + tells them how even he is calumniated—people + say that he is a member of the Anfu + Club.</p> + + <p>I struck another side of China on my way + home from Tientsin. I was introduced to + an ex-Minister of Finance as my traveling + companion. He is a Ph.D. in higher math. + from America, and is a most intelligent + man. But his theme of conversation was + the need of a scientific investigation of + <a class="pagenum" id="page310" title="310"> </a>spirits and spirit possession and divination, + etc., in order to decide scientifically the existence + of the soul and an overruling mind. + Incidentally he told a fine lot of Chinese + ghost stories. Aside from the coloring of + the tales I don’t know that there was anything + especially Chinese about them. He + certainly is much more intelligent about it + than some of our American spiritualists. + But the ghosts were certainly Chinese all + right—spirit possession mostly. I suppose + you know that the walls that stand in front + of the better-to-do Chinese houses are there + to keep spirits out—the spirits can’t turn a + corner, so when the wall is squarely in front + of the location of the front door the house + is safe. Otherwise they come in and take + possession of somebody—if they aren’t + comfortable as they are. It seems there is + quite a group of ex-politicians in Tientsin + who are much interested in psychical research. + Considering that China is the + aboriginal home of ghosts, I can’t see why + <a class="pagenum" id="page311" title="311"> </a>the western investigators don’t start their + research here. These educated Chinese + aren’t credulous, so there is nothing crude + about their ghost stories.</p> + +<div id="the_end"> </div> + +<div id="transcriber_note"> + <h2>Transcriber’s Note</h2> + <p>Typographical errors in English were corrected. Spellings of non-English words were left as found.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by +John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + +***** This file should be named 31043-h.htm or 31043-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/0/4/31043/ + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Letters from China and Japan + +Author: John Dewey + Alice Chipman Dewey + +Editor: Evelyn Dewey + +Release Date: January 22, 2010 [EBook #31043] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN + + +BY + +JOHN DEWEY, Ph.D., LL.D. + +PROFESSOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY + + +AND + +ALICE CHIPMAN DEWEY + + +Edited by + +EVELYN DEWEY + + +NEW YORK +E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY +681 FIFTH AVENUE + + + + +Copyright, 1920, + +By E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + +_All Rights Reserved_ + +_Printed in the United States of America_ + + + + +PREFACE + + +John Dewey, Professor of Philosophy in Columbia University, and his +wife, Alice C. Dewey, who wrote the letters reproduced in this book, +left the United States early in 1919 for a trip to Japan. The trip was +eagerly embarked on, as they had desired for many years to see at +least something of the Eastern Hemisphere. The journey was to be +solely for pleasure, but just before their departure from San +Francisco, Professor Dewey was invited, by cable, to lecture at the +Imperial University at Tokyo, and later at a number of other points in +the Japanese Empire. They traveled and visited in Japan for some three +to four months and in May, after a most happy experience, made doubly +so by the unexpected courtesies extended them, they decided to go on +to China, at least for a few weeks, before returning to the United +States. + +The fascination of the struggle going on in China for a unified and +independent democracy caused them to alter their plan to return to the +United States in the summer of 1919. Professor Dewey applied to +Columbia University for a year's leave of absence, which was granted, +and with Mrs. Dewey, is still in China. Both are lecturing and +conferring, endeavoring to take some of the story of a Western +Democracy to an Ancient Empire, and in turn are enjoying an +experience, which, as the letters indicate, they value as a great +enrichment of their own lives. The letters were written to their +children in America, without thought of their ever appearing in print. + + EVELYN DEWEY. + +NEW YORK, +January 5th, 1920. + + + + +LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN + + + + +TOKYO, Monday, February. + + +Well, if you want to see one mammoth, muddy masquerade just see Tokyo +to-day. I am so amused all the time that if I were to do just as I +feel, I should sit down or stand up and call out, as it were, from the +housetops to every one in the world to come and see the show. If it +were not for the cut of them I should think that all the cast-off +clothing had been misdirected and had gone to Japan instead of +Belgium. But they are mostly as queer in cut as they are in material. +Imagine rummaging your attic for the colors and patterns of past days +and then gathering up kimonos of all the different colors and patterns +and sizes and with it all a lot of men's hats that are like nothing +you ever saw, and very muddy streets, and there you have it. The +'ricksha men have their legs fitted with tight trousers and puttees to +end them, and they are graceful. They run all day, through the mud and +snow and wet in these things made of cotton cloth that are neither +stockings nor shoes but both, and they stand about or sit on steps and +wait, and yet they get through the day alive. I am distracted between +the desire to ride in the baby cart and the fear of the language, +mixed with the greater fear of the pain of being drawn by a +fellow-being. They are a lithe set of little men and look as if they +had steel springs to make them go when you look at their course. Still +I have been only in autos, of which there are not many here. I get +tired with the excitement of the constant amusement. This morning a +man came out of a curio shop. Bow. "Exguse me, madame, is this not +Mrs. Daway? I knew you because I saw your picture in the paper. Will +you not come in and look at our many curios? I shall have the pleasure +of bringing them to your hotel. What is the number of your room, +madame?" Bow. "No, please do not bring them to my room, for I am +always out. I will come in and see them sometime." "Thank you, madame, +please do so, madame, we have many fine curios." Bow. "Good-morning, +madame." + +The looks of the streets are like the clothes, just left over from the +past ages. Of course Tokyo is the modern city of Japan, and we shall +watch out for the ancient ones when it comes their turn. I wish I +could give you an idea of the looks of the poor. The children up to +the age of about thirteen appear never to wipe their noses. Combine +this effect (more effect than in Italy) with several kimonos, one on +top of the other, made of cotton and wool of bright colors and +flowered, with a queer brown checked one on top; this wadded and much +too big, therefore hitched up round the waist. Swung in this outside +one a baby is carried on the back, the little baby head with black +bangs or still fuzzy scalp sticking out, nose never yet touched by a +handkerchief, wearer of the baby with a nose in the same condition if +at a tender age--I scream inside of me as I go about, and it is more +exciting than any play ever. We are as much curiosities to them as +they are to us, though we live where the most foreigners go. Now on +top of it all we can no more make a car driver understand where we +want to go than if we were monkeys. We can't find any names on the +streets, we can't read a sign except the few that are in English; the +streets wind in any and every direction; they are long and short and +circular, while a big canal circles through the part of the city where +we are and we seem to cross it every few minutes; every time we cross +it we think we are going in the same direction as the last time we +crossed it. About this stage of our search your father goes up to a +young fellow with an ulster on, and capes, and a felt hat that is like +a fedora except for a few inches taken out of its height, and says to +him, Tei-ko-ku Hotel, which would mean the Imperial Hotel if he had +pronounced it right, and the boy turns around and says, "Do you want +ze Imperialee Hoter?" And we say, "Yes" (you bet), and the fellow +says, "Eet is ze beeg building down zere," so we wade along some more +with all the clog walkers looking at our feet till we come to this old +barn of a place where we are paying as much as at a Fifth Avenue +hotel, and get clear soup for dinner. Just like any one of those +old-fashioned French places where they measure out with care all they +give you, and where the head is a most distinguished and conspicuous +jack-in-the-box who jacks at you all the time, bows every time you go +down the hall and all and all and all. It is all so screamingly funny. +The shops are nearly as big as our bedrooms at home with enough space +to step in and leave your shoes before you mount the takenomo and walk +on the mats. We could not go into any shop, except the foreign book +stores, because we were too dirty and had no time to unlace our shoes +even if we wanted to wear out our silk stockings. We shall have some +nice striped socks before we begin to do shopping. I am possessed with +the notion of trying the clogs. + + + + +Tuesday, February 11 (TOKYO). + + +To-day is a holiday, so we cannot go to the bank, but we can go to a +meeting where they will discuss universal franchise and +democratization generally. The Emperor is said to be indisposed, so he +will not come to the celebration. His illnesses, like everything else +about him, are arranged by the ministers and mistresses, as near as we +can make out. + +We are having so many interesting experiences and impressions that it +is already difficult to catch up in writing them down. Yesterday +morning we went to walk and in the afternoon we were taken out in a +car so that we have got over the first impression of the surface. We +saw the university and the park where the tombs of the shoguns are, +and those tombs are wonderful, just to look at from the car. About +to-morrow we may be able to go to the museum. The rows of stone +lanterns are impressive beyond anything I had imagined; hundreds of +them which must have given to the nights they illuminated a +wonderfully weird spectral look. + +It is not fully true that the Japanese are not interested in their +history. At least the educated are, as in any other country. A friend +told us about the revival of interest in the tea ceremony. He is going +to arrange for us to go to one somewhere, he did not say where, but it +will be accompanied by a grand dinner and will express the +magnificence of the new rich as well as the taste of old Japan, to +judge from the impressions he gave us. He told us of an old Chinese +cup for the tea ceremony that a certain millionaire has recently paid +160,000 yen for. That means $80,000. He says the collectors have +various sets, and each set will often represent a million dollars. +This particular bowl is of black porcelain with decorations of bright +color. He told us also of a tea which is now produced in China by +grafting the tea branches on to lemon trees. He has some of this tea +which was given him by the Chinese ambassador and so I hope we may get +a taste of it. + +Apropos of this hotel you will be interested to know the manager who +runs the house has just come home from the Waldorf and from London +where he has been learning how to do--people. The exchange rates they +offered Papa seem to be an index of their line of development and they +are going to build more. This is _the_ one first-class hotel in Japan. +At present they have only about sixty rooms or a little more. + +In general, things are coming along promisingly. I should be through +lecturing by the first of April here, which is _just_ the time to +begin traveling. It turns out a good scheme to come in winter, for the +weather, while not cheerful, is far from really cold, though it is not +easy to see just how the palms thrive in the snow. Japan seems to have +developed a peculiar type of semi-tropical vegetation which endures +freezing and winter. I can foresee that we are going to be busy +enough, and for the next few weeks your mother is going to have more +time for miscellaneous sightseeing than I. It is indescribably +fascinating; in substance, of course, like the books and pictures, but +nothing really prepares you for the fact that it is not only real in +quality but on such a vast scale---not just specimens here and there. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, February 13. + + +We have done our first independent shopping to-day. I can't get over +my astonishment at the amount and quality of English spoken here; it +is about as easy shopping in this store, the big department store, as +it is at home--much easier as respects attention and comfort. They +give us little wrappers or feet gloves to put over our shoes. Think of +what an improvement that would be in muddy weather in Chicago. + +This afternoon is sort of a lull after the storm of sociability and +hospitality which reached its temporary height yesterday. Let me give +the diary. Before we had finished breakfast--and we have eaten every +morning at eight until to-day--people began to call. Then two +gentlemen took us to the University in their car and we called on the +President again. He is a gentleman of the old school, Confucianist I +suppose, and your mother was much impressed at being taken in, instead +of staying in the car, but I think he was much more pleased and +complimented by her call than by mine. Then we were taken to the +department store to which I have already alluded. Many people do all +their buying there, because there are fixed prices with a reward for a +discovery of any place where the same goods are sold cheaper, and +absolute honesty as to quality. But they also said that was the easy +way to visit Japan and learn about the clothes, ornaments, toys, etc., +and also to see the people, as the Japanese from all over the country +come there to see the sights. There were a group of country people in; +they are called red blankets, not greenhorns, because they wear in +winter a red bed blanket gathered with a string, instead of an +overcoat. Then at night it comes in handy. + +The stores are already displaying the things for the girls' festival +though it doesn't come till early March--this is the peach fete, and +the display of festive dolls--king and queen, servants, ladies of the +court in their old costumes, is very interesting and artistic. They +have certainly put the doll to uses which we haven't approached. Then +we had lunch at the store, a regular Japanese lunch, which tasted very +good, and I ate mine with chop sticks. Then they brought us back to +the hotel, and at two a friend came and took me to call on Baron +Shibusawa--I suppose even benighted foreigners like yourself will know +who he is, but you may not know that he is 83, that he has a skin like +a baby's, and shows all the signs of the most acute mental vigor, or +that for the last two or three years he has given up all business and +devoted himself to philanthropic and humanitarian activities. He does +evidently what not many American millionaires do; he takes an +intellectual and moral interest, and doesn't merely give money. He +explained for about half an hour or more his theory of life (he is +purely a Confucianist and not a religionist of any kind), and what he +was trying to do, especially that it isn't merely relief. He is +desirous to preserve the old Confucian standards only adapted to +present economic conditions; it is essentially a morality of feudal +economic relationships, as perhaps you know, and he thinks the modern +factory employers can be brought to take the old paternal attitude to +the employees and thus forestall the class struggle here. The radicals +laugh at the notion here much as they would in the United States, but +for my part if he can get in a swipe at the Marxian theory of social +evolution and bring about another type still of social evolution, I +don't see why he should not have a run for his money. According to all +reports there is very little labor and capital problem here yet, +though the big fortunes made by the war and the increased prosperity +of the workingmen have begun to make a change, it is said. Up to the +present labor unions have not been permitted, but the government has +announced that while they are not encouraged they will not be any +longer forbidden. + +But I must get back to the story. Another friend had asked us to go to +the theater with him, the Imperial Theater, which has European seats +and is a fine and large building, as fine as in any capital and not +overdecorated like a New York one. The theater began at four, and, +with about half an hour intermission for dinner, continued till ten at +night; the regular Japanese theaters begin at eleven in the morning +and continue till ten at night and you have your food brought to you; +also they have no seats and you sit on your legs. None of the plays +was strictly of the old historic type, but the most interesting one by +far was adapted from a classic--it centers to some extent about a +faithful horse, and the people are country farmers of several +centuries ago. The least interesting was a kind of problem +play--mostly philosophical discourse of the modern type--the right to +expression of self and an artistic career, aphorisms having no +dramatic appeal to even the Japanese audience. These people certainly +have an alert intelligence--almost as specialized as the Parisian, for +the audience was distinctly of the people, and no American audience +could be got to pay the close attention it gave to performances where +the merits, so far as they are not strictly artistic, in the technique +of acting which is very highly developed, depend upon catching the +play of moral emotions rather than upon anything very theatrical. +However, the classic drama which is based upon old stories and +traditions is more dramatic and melodramatic. The Japanese also say +the old theater has much better actors than the semi-Europeanized one +which is, I suppose, supported by the government. In the Imperial, the +orchestra seats are one dollar and a half; they are more--on the floor +at that--in the all-day theaters. Even in this one they have not +introduced applause, though there was slight handclapping once or +twice when the curtain went down. The Japanese have always had the +revolving theater as a means of scene shifting; it works like a +railway turntable apparently. Well, that ended the day yesterday. +Except we had invited two gentlemen to dinner, and when we told our +friends about it, they said, "Oh, just telephone them to come some +other day," which appears to be good Japanese etiquette, as it is also +to make calls at any time of the day, so we did. But unfortunately +they had to telephone to-day that they couldn't come to-night. + +To-day has been comparatively calm; we have only had four Japanese +callers and two American ones. Of the two Japanese, one is a woman who +is the warden of the Girls' University, and the other is a teacher in +it, a young woman of a wealthy and aristocratic family who has become +too modern, I judge, for her family. I hope all you children will make +a bow to every Japanese you meet and ask him what you can do to be of +service to him. I shall have to spend the rest of my life trying to +make up for some of the kindnesses and courtesies which so abound +here. + +I am afraid much of this is more interesting to me to write about than +it is to you to read, to say nothing of being more interesting to go +through than to read about. But you can then save the letter for us to +re-read when we get old and return from our Odysseying, and wish to +recover the memories of the days when people were so kind that they +created in us the illusion of being somebody, and gave us the combined +enjoyments of home and being in a strange and semi-magic country; +semi-magic for us. For the mass of the people, one can only wonder at +their cheerfulness and realize what a really old and overcrowded +country is and how Buddhism and stoic fatalistic cheerfulness develop. +Don't ever fool yourself into thinking of Japan as a new country; I +don't any longer believe the people who tell you that you have to go +to China and India to see antiquity. Superficially it may be so, but +not fundamentally. Any country is old where birth and death are like +the coming and dropping of leaves on a tree, and where the individual +is of as much importance as the leaf. Old world and New world are not +mere relatives; they are as near absolutes as anything. + +We heard a whistle making its cry outside and Mamma thought it was the +bank messenger, so I rang the bell for the boy to bring him in--but +alas, it was much less romantic; it was the call of the macaroni +peddler. + + + + +TOKYO, February. + + +Here we are, one week after landing, on a hill in a beautiful garden of +trees on which the buds are already swelling. The plums will soon be in +bloom, and in March the camellias, which grow to fairly large trees. In +the distance we see the wonderful Fuji, nearby the other hills of this +district, and the further plains of the city. Just at the foot of our +hill is a canal, along which is an alley of cherry trees formerly +famous, but largely destroyed by a storm a few years ago. + +We have a wonderful apartment to ourselves, mostly all windows, which in +this house are glass. A very large bedroom, a small dressing room, and a +study where I now sit with the sun coming in the windows which are all +its sides. We need this sun, though the hibashi, or boxes of charcoal, +do wonders in warming up your feet and drying hair, as I am now doing. +We are surrounded by all the books on Japan that modern learning has +produced, so we have never a waiting moment. The house is very large, +with one house after another covering the hilltop and connected by the +galleries that are cut off the sides of each room in succession. I shall +try to get a photo. At the extreme end of the house is Mr. X----'s +library of several rooms, and at the limit of that the tea room for the +tea ceremonies. Our host is not one of the new rich who buy sets at a +million dollars for performing this ceremony. He laughs at that. But +there is a gold lacquer table which is like transfixed sunshine, and +there are other pieces of old furniture, which are priceless now, and +which have come down in his family. You would be amused to see us at +breakfast, which O-Tei, the maid assigned to us, serves in our sun +parlor. First we have fruit. Two little lacquer tables to move wherever +we want to sit. The dishes and service are in our fashion in this house. +Nice old blue Canton plates and other things Japanese. After fruit she +makes toast over the charcoal in the hibashi, two little iron sticks +stuck in the bread to hold it. On these prongs she hands us the toast. +Meantime she teaches us Japanese and we teach her English which she +already knows, and she giggles every time we speak. Well, we put our +toast down on the plate and she disappears. The coffee pot is on a side +table and we desperately look for cups for ourselves, though with some +fear of disturbing the etiquette. No cups, she forgot them. After a +while she comes up again with the cups and we get coffee, then she goes +down again and brings scrambled eggs on the nice old blue plates. Then +she giggles a little more and talks in that soft voice that is like +nothing else we ever heard, as she hands us a nice hot piece of toast on +an iron spike; she is much pleased and giggles because I tell her the +toast is not harmed by dropping it on the clean floor, and she walks off +into the big bedroom to bring the coffee from the gas heater. It is all +like a pretty play unmarred by any remote ideas about efficiency, and +time and labor-saving devices. Then two maids make our beds; then they +dust the floor, one holding up the sofa on edge while the other whisks +underneath it, and they smile and bow and take an interest in every move +we make as if we were their dearest friends. + +Enter now the housekeeper who, with many bows, announces v-e-r-y +s-l-o-w-l-y that she would like to accompany me to go about the city and +to explain things to me, as I would thus teach her English. I asked if +she were going to church and she said she wasn't a Christian. Think what +a funny sound that has. She is the secretary of Mr. X---- and a student +in the new Christian college of which he is the President. She comes in +now to wait on us at breakfast and she stays and repeats English after +us. She knows a lot of English, but it is so literary that it is quite +amusing to turn her into the ways of ordinary talk. To get her to open +her mouth and break the polite Japanese whisper, in which the Japanese +women speak, is what I work most on. Yesterday we visited the Women's +University which is within walking distance of this house. The +President, Mr. Naruse, is dying of cancer. He is in bed but is able to +talk quite naturally. He has made a farewell address to his students, +has said good-bye to his faculty in a speech, and has named the dean, +who is acting in his place now, as his successor. At this University +they teach flower arrangement, long sword, and Japanese etiquette, and +the chief warden is a fine woman. She says I may come in as much as I +like to see those different things. + +In the afternoon we had callers again, among them two women. Women are +rare. One, a Dr. R----, is an osteopath who has practiced here for +fifteen years and is an old friend of our host's. The second, Miss +T----, has just returned from seven years in our country. I heard much +of her at Stanford and brought letters to her. She has a chair in the +Women's University. It is a chair of Sociology, but she says the +authorities are afraid the time has not yet come for her to start on +sociology, so she will begin with the teaching of English and work into +sociology by the process of ingratiating it into her classes. She is an +interesting personality. She was sent to me to say I might be lonely +because your father was away so she was to take me, with any other +friends I wanted, to the theater. As we had already been to the Imperial +Theater and sat in the Baron's box it was finally arranged to go to the +Kabuki, where we sit on the floor and see real old Japanese acting, +which I am very anxious to do. I understand it begins at 11 in the +morning and lasts until ten at night. + + + + +February 22. + + +Yesterday we went to the theater, beginning at one and ending about +nine; tea is constantly in the box, and little meals--and a big +one--between the acts. We liked the old Japanese theater better than the +more or less modernized one. Baron Shibusawa presented us with a box--or +rather two of them--and his niece and another relative and the two young +people from the house went. I won't try to describe the dramas, except +to say that the way to study Japanese history and tradition would be to +go to the theater with some one to interpret, and that while the theater +is as plain as a medieval European one, the dresses are even more +elaborate and costly. The stage is a beautiful spectacle when there are +forty old Samurai on it, as the garments are genuine, not tinsel. Mamma +went more than I, because I had to leave at half-past four to go to the +Concordia Society--in fact, I hadn't expected to go at all at first, as +the Baron said that he sent the offer of the box because he feared Mamma +might be lonely when I was away! There were about twenty-five Japanese +and Americans at the meeting and after I had spoken for half an hour we +had dinner in an adjoining restaurant, and then sat around and visited +for an hour or so. + +The great event of the week, aside from the theater yesterday, was +visiting the Women's University--you mightn't think that a great treat, +but you don't know what we saw. We started early to walk, since it isn't +far and we had been shown the way once, but we were rubbering so busily +at the shops that we failed to notice where we were till we got to the +end of things and then had to turn around and walk back, so we got there +late. The forenoon we spent in the elementary classes and kindergarten, +which are their practice school. Those very bright kimonos for children +you see are real--all the children wear them, as bright as can be, +generally reds, and then some. So the rooms where the little children +were are like gardens of flowers with bright birds in them--gay as can +be. The work was all interesting, but the colored crayon drawings +particularly. They have a great deal of freedom there, and instead of +the children imitating and showing no individuality--which seems to be +the proper thing to say--I never saw so much variety and so little +similarity in drawings and other hand work, to say nothing of its +quality being much better than the average of ours. The children were +under no visible discipline, but were good as well as happy; they paid +no attention to visitors, which I think is ultramodern, as I expected to +see them all rise and bow. If you will think of doing all the regular +school work--including in this school a good deal of hand work, drawing, +etc.--and then learning by the end of the sixth grade a thousand or more +Chinese characters, to make as well as to read, you will have some idea +of how industrious the kids have to be, and of course they have to learn +Japanese characters, too. Then we had a luncheon, ten of us altogether, +cooked and served by the girls in the Domestic Department; some +luncheon!--and garnished in a way to beat the Ritz--European food and +service. Then the real show began. First we had flower arrangement, +ancient and modern styles, then examples of the ancient etiquette in +serving tea and cakes to guests, and then of inferiors calling on +superiors; then Koto playing--a thirteen-stringed harp that lies on the +floor--first two girls and the teacher, and then a solo by the teacher. +He is blind and said to be the best player in Japan; he gave "Cotton +Bleaching in the Brook," and said he rarely played it, only once a year. +Well, you could hear the water ripple and fall, and hit the stones, and +the women singing and beating the cotton. I could hear it better than I +can hear spring in our music, so I think perhaps my ears are made to fit +the Japanese scale, or lack of it. Then we were taken into the tea house +and shown the tea ceremony, being served with tea. Mamma sat tatami, on +her heels, but I basely took a chair. Then we went to the gymnasium and +saw the old Samurai women's sword and spear exercises, etc. The teacher +was an old woman of seventy-five and as lithe and nimble as a cat--more +graceful than any of the girls. I have an enormous respect now for the +old etiquette and ceremonies regarded as physical culture. Every +movement has to be made perfectly, and it cannot be done without +conscious control. The modernized gym exercises by the children were +simply pitiful compared with all these ceremonies. Then we were taken to +the dormitories, which are in a garden, simple wooden Japanese +buildings, like barns our girls would think, but everything so clean you +could eat on the floor anywhere, with the south side all glass and sun, +and the girls sitting on the floor to study on a table about a foot and +a half high; no beds or chairs to litter up the rooms. Then after we +were taken over some of the other rooms, we went back to the dining-room +and had a most exquisite Japanese vegetarian Buddhist lunch served--just +a sample, all on a little plate, but including the sweets for dessert, +five or six things all quite different and elegantly cooked. Also three +kinds of tea. + +Politeness is so universal here that when we get back we shall either be +so civil that you won't know us, or else we shall be so irritated that +nobody is sufficiently civil that you won't know us either. Mr. X---- +took me in his car and brought me back. When we got to the hall there +were five maids bowing and smiling to get our slippers and hang up our +coats and hats. Just going in or out is like going to a picnic; I think +the maids enjoy this change in their regular work, for they really +smile, as if they were having the time of their lives. If it is +perfunctory and put on, they have me fooled. + +Well, I'll spare you all any philosophical reflections this trip. +Besides, I've been too busy having a good time to think of any. They +will probably grow spontaneously in China. I forgot whether I told you +in my last letter that the Minister of the Interior has given me a +monthly and renewable pass first class on the Japanese railways. A +friend here asked him for one for Mamma, too, but he said he was very +sorry, that privilege could not be extended to a woman. So I'm the only +grafter in the family. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but shall +make one at the first opportunity in order to get the sensation. + + + + +TOKYO, Friday, February 28. + + +I don't get much sightseeing done except in the way of seeing street +sights. I am generally accompanied when I take a walk for exercise and +always taken by some new way. The other evening we went out after dinner +and took a walk to a lively street not far off--booksellers with their +things spread out on the sidewalk or rather road, little lunch wagons, +crowded streets and shops--they have electricity everywhere, and some +geisha girls trotting along with maids to carry their samisens. We went +into a Japanese movie beside rubbering at everything and then went into +a Japanese restaurant. Their eating places here are specialized--this +was a noodle shop, and we tried three kinds, one wheat in a soup, one +buckwheat with fried shrimps, and another cold with seaweed. For the +entire lot for the two of us it cost 27 cents American money, and the +place, which was an ordinary one, was cleaner than any American one, +even the best. The movie story seemed more complicated than any of ours, +and was certainly slower, because there is a man and a woman in a little +coop near the curtain who say what the actors are saying whenever their +lips move, this gives a chance of course for more talk. There were a few +knockouts and a murder and a villain and a persecuted damsel, and an +attempted suicide to provide thrills, but I couldn't make out what it +was about even with the aid of the guide with me. Such are simple +pleasures here, save that when we walk in the daytime we generally go to +a temple where on the whole the people are more interesting than the +temples, though sometimes the layout of trees is beautiful and gives +much the same effect of religious calm as a cathedral. In general the +similarity between worship here and the country Italian Catholicism is +more striking than anything else. They are slightly more naive here--to +see the dolls, woolly dogs, and pinwheels at the shrines of the +children's gods, besides their straw slippers, straw sandals and an +occasional child's kimono is quite touching, also sometimes a mother has +cut off her hair and pinned it up as an offering. Other things are as +humorous as these are pathetic, such as making spitballs of written +prayers and pasting the god with them. Some of the gods are now +protected by wire netting on this account. I have got fairly well used +to the street scenes now and can tell most of the kinds of shops, such +as an undertaker's from a cooper's. What makes the street so interesting +is that you can look in and see everything going on. I forgot to mention +the most interesting street thing I've seen, a bird catcher with a long +limed pole like a bamboo fishing rod, a basket with a valve door to put +them in and some other utensils. I didn't see him catch any, though. + + + + +Sunday Morning, March 2. + + +I am writing early because we are going to-day to Kamakura. You have +probably heard of the big bronze Buddha--fifty feet high--well, that is +there. A friend has arranged an interview for us with the most +distinguished or most learned of the Buddhist priests in Japan--who +belongs to the most philosophical of all the sects, the Zen, which +believes in the simple life and is more or less Stoical; this is the +sect that had the greatest influence on the warrior class in the good +old days. Kamakura is on the other side of Yokohama, an old Shogun +capital; has lots of historic shrines, etc. + +Yesterday I made my first speech with an interpreter to a teachers' +association, some five hundred in all, mostly elementary school teachers +conspicuous for the fact that only about twenty-five were women. In the +evening we went to a supper and reception of the English-Speaking +Society, Americans and Japanese, mostly the latter; both men and women +and the most generally sociable thing we have seen yet. We have heard +said it was the only place in Tokyo where Japanese men and women really +met in a free sociable way, and the president said that when Japanese +met for sociable purposes they were reserved and stiff--at least till +the wine went round--as long as they spoke Japanese, but speaking +English brought back the habits they got in America and thawed them +out--an interesting psychological observation on the effect of language. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4. + + +You would be surprised to see how free from all affectations this +country has remained, at least so far as we see it. There is a social +democracy here that we do not know. All Japan is talking democracy now, +which is to be taken in the sense of representative government rather +than in the sense of tearing down the present form of government. The +representation in elections here now does not seem to extend much +further, if any, than to include those large taxpayers who would under +any system be a force in forming policy. The extension of the suffrage +is the great question under discussion at present. That and the +expansion of special education for men are the turning points for the +coming legislators. Japan has acquired many new millionaires during the +war and those men are already founding new schools for vocational +purposes for men. Four hundred and forty students are to be sent abroad +with a very generous allowance for living in the different foreign +countries, none of them women, and no women are mentioned in any of the +new appropriation bills. Not even a mention of the needs for women. + +Yesterday, to begin, was spent thus: It was the famous festival of +dolls. In the morning I made a dress for a poor sort of foreign doll I +had hunted out for a little girl. It was all American. Another +ridiculous imitation of American baby, looking half caste Japanese, has +still to be dressed when I can find the material for long clothes, but I +presented it as is. They invited me in to see their exhibition. Some of +their dolls are two hundred years old from their mothers' family. I +shall try to find some literature on this festival as it is too long to +write about. But it is true that one begins immediately to get the +passion for dolls; they are not dead things like ours, but works of art +symbolic of all the different phases of national life. The little girls +were delighted with their possessions. If I had only known about this I +should have known what to bring to Japan for gifts, instead of feeling +as helpless as I did. If you come, bring dolls. + +In the afternoon I was invited to go to the best or one of the best +collections in the country and that was a great experience. It began +very painfully for me because I got lost and was three-quarters of an +hour late at the Imperial Hotel from which we started. The family that +owns this famous collection is very old and the wife is the daughter of +a Daimyo, hence the dolls are very old. And they are wonderful, and more +wonderful still their housekeeping equipment of old lacquer and +porcelain and glass. The doll refreshments are served in tiny dishes on +tiny tables while the guests sit on the floor, the hostess and her +family doing all the serving. We had the thick white wine made from rice +poured out of wonderful little decanters into tiny glasses. We drank to +the health of the family and the stuff is delicious, with an aroma such +as no honey can excel. After these refreshments we were shown the room +for the tea ceremony and then taken back into the foreign part of the +house for real refreshments, which consisted of many and wonderful +varieties of cakes. The tea was served in cups with saucers decorated +with plum blossoms, this being the time of plum blossoms. Then tea cups +taken away and cups of rich chocolate placed on the tables. These tables +were high enough for the ordinary chairs. All the foreign houses are +very ugly in style but very comfortable and mid-Victorian. The Baroness +urged us to eat special cakes and we left stuffed. One kind is in the +form of a beautiful pink leaf wrapped in a cherry leaf which has been +preserved from last year. The leaf gives the cake a delicious flavor and +also a cover to protect the fingers from its stickiness. Then three +little round brown cakes looking some like chocolate--on a skewer. You +bite off the first one whole, then slip the other two as you eat them. +Those alone are enough for a meal and very nourishing. All cakes are +made from bean paste or like our richest pastries. When that second meal +was finished, we said good-bye. The Baroness and her three pretty +daughters and her sister all followed us to the outer door and when our +auto drove off the last thing we saw were the bows of the butlers and +these pretty ladies, all saying one more harmonious good-bye. The young +girls dress in kimonos of wool muslin of the brightest colors and +designs which are conceivable even to the Japanese imagination. They +look like a very profusely blooming garden of old fashioned perennials. + +The garden is indescribable. I had some fancy of what a Japanese garden +would look like, but find it is nothing at all beside the reality. This +place is big and the grass is now brown. Most of the grass is covered +with a thick carpet of pine needles and at the edge of the pine needle +carpet a rope of twisted straw outlines graceful curves. The use of the +big stones is the most surprising part of the whole. They are very old +and weather-stained, of many shades of gray and blue-gray, with the +short shrubs for a background, and the severity and simplicity of the +result has a classic beauty which we may attain in centuries, and only +after we have consumed our abundance of things material. + +Then we went to dinner at the house of Professor M----. There are six +children in his family, the oldest a man of about twenty-five, a +graduate of the Imperial University, now a factory inspector for the +government; he speaks eight languages. One of these is Esperanto, which +is his hobby. The French Professors were there also, two of them, a +clever and amusing pair, who did their duty in talking, and the young +man spoke better than any of us and with an excellent pronunciation. He +has never been out of Japan. Two little girls and a young boy appeared +after dinner and made their pretty bows to the floor, and then went to a +low table and squatted and played Go the rest of the evening. Go is the +famous shell game. Go means five and it is a game of fives, but ask me +no more, except that the men are 364 in number and you play it on an +expanded checker board. There was an endless succession of food and +drinks and we did not leave till nearly eleven. Japanese families have +many nice drinks which we do not. Theirs are perhaps no better than our +best ones, but they add to the pleasant variety of non-alcoholic drinks. +Besides those we had two wines. + +This was the dinner as near as I can remember. A menu card was at each +plate and I fancy they were intended as souvenirs for the foreign +guests, but I forgot to take mine, if that was their purpose. We had +soup, bread of two kinds, and butter. Then fish patties, then little +birds, boned, on toast with a vegetable, then ramekins of Japanese +macaroni, which is not like ours. Next roast beef, very tender fillet, +with potato balls, peas, gravy, another vegetable forgot, and salad, +white and red wine, coming after the orange cider. Then a delicious +pudding, then cake and strawberries. Those berries are raised out of +doors. They are planted between rows of stones which are heated +artificially, I did not quite understand how, the vines being kept from +touching the stones by low bamboo trellises. Whipped cream served with +the berries. Then delicious coffee in foreign style. + +After dinner we leave the reception room in foreign style and go +upstairs to the big Japanese room, sit by the hibashi or the grate, and +here the children come. At once tea is served. Then just as we were +starting for home we were urged to stay for a drink, which was more +orange cider, very sweet, and bottled waters, which are so good and come +from the many natural springs. One of the amusements of the Japanese is +seeing the foreign visitors try to sit, and you can't wonder they are +amused. I can manage it, in awkward fashion, but your father can't even +bend for the pose. On Sunday we sat for two hours in the presence of the +greatest Buddhist priest in Japan, and you can guess whether we wriggled +and if my feet were asleep if you try the pose for a few minutes +yourself, even on a nice soft cushion as we were. Getting up properly is +the hardest part of it. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, March 4. + + +Our friends took us to Kamakura; it isn't interesting reading these +things in advance in guide books, so I don't think a description will be +interesting, but something over seven hundred years ago, the first +Shogun rulers settled there and made it their capital, of which nothing +is now left save the Buddhist temples. We met on the train going down +the professor of Japanese literature in the University, who was going +there because it was the seventh hundred anniversary of a Shogun who +wrote poetry, and the professor was going over to lecture on his poems. +Also we ran across several hundred school children, boys and girls with +their teachers, who were spending Sunday seeing the historic sights. One +of the big temples to the god of war was a kind of museum, with old +swords and masks and things in it. They took us to call on the Reverend +Shaku, who is the head of the Zen sect of Buddhists in Japan, and who +talked--including the interpreter--about two hours, in answer to +questions about Buddhism, especially his variety. It was very +interesting. We were ushered into a Japanese room, beautiful +proportions, a lovely kakemono in the alcove--it's a scroll, not a +kimono--and a five-legged little table made of metal with +mother-of-pearl inlay. Otherwise nothing but the room with gorgeous blue +and gold chrysanthemums alternating on the paneled ceiling and five silk +cushions scattered around for us to sit on, and a single one at the end +of the room for him. In about five minutes another screen door opened +and he appeared in a gorgeous but simple flowing robe, copper colored. +Then tea and sponge cake--meantime the talk fest had begun. Incidentally +I should remark that the bowing and kneeling of the servants looks much +more natural and less servile when you see people seated on the floor, +and the servants have to kneel to hand them anything. His personality is +that of a scholarly type, rather ascetic, not over refined, but not in +the least sleek like some of our Hindu swamis, and very charming. When +we left he thanked us for coming and expressed his great satisfaction +that he had made some friends. His talk was largely moral but with a +high metaphysical flavor, somewhat elusive, and reminding one of Royce. +Well it was an experience worth having, as he is reputed the most +learned and representative Buddhist in Japan, and as I have remarked +before, seeing is quite different from reading. He was more modern than +Royce in one respect; he said God is the moral ideal in man and as man +develops the divine principle does also. We saw the big fifty-foot +bronze statue of Buddha, in some respects the most celebrated single +thing in Japan and again one you have to see. It is as impressive as a +cathedral. + +We have been to a dinner party since I began this. Our host seems to be +a universal genius--a member of the house of peers, an authority on +education, an orchid fancier, a painter and I don't know what. There +were over twenty at table, and our health was drunk in champagne with a +little speech, and two members of the cabinet were there. The Countess +is the mother of eight children, and looks about thirty and very pretty +for thirty. Three or four of the little girls were about before and +after dinner, and, like several of the little girls of the new +generation, are as spontaneous and natural as you would wish. Acquired +characteristics are certainly hereditary in Japan, for even the most +lively and spontaneous children are civilized. Whatever else you think +about the Japanese they are about the most highly civilized people on +earth, perhaps overcultivated. I asked Mamma when these girls would +undergo the clammifying process and have all their life taken out of +them, and she said never for these girls. + +President Naruse died this morning; as he had cancer, it was fortunate +he did not linger longer. He was one of the most remarkable men in +Japan. Two days before he died the Empress sent him a present of five +thousand dollars for his school--a very great tribute and one which will +help the cause of woman's education. Speaking of this family where we +dined, you can judge of the high aristocracy of our hosts of the evening +by the fact that when they showed us the dolls' festival, there were +some fine ones which had been sent the Countess by the Imperial +Princesses. The dolls by the way are never played with--they are works +of art and history to look at. These children got out their American +dolls, of which they had ten, to show Mamma. + + + + +March 5. + + +I have now given three lectures. They are a patient race; there is still +a good-sized audience, probably five hundred. We are gradually getting a +superficial acquaintance with a good many people, and if I could get two +or three weeks free from lectures to prepare I could make a business of +finding things out, but as it is I only accumulate certain impressions. +There is no doubt a great change is going on; how permanent it will be +depends a good deal upon how the rest of the world behaves. If it +doesn't live up to its peaceful and democratic professions, the +conservative bureaucrats and militarists, who of course are still very +strong, will say we told you so and there will be a backset. But if +other countries, and especially our own, behave decently, the +democratizing here will go on as steadily and as rapidly as is +desirable. + + + + +TOKYO, Monday, March 10. + + +Yesterday we had our first taste of the Noh drama. We got there before +nine in the morning, and I left before two to go to Mr. Naruse's +funeral, but Mamma stayed till nearly three when she had to go to speak +at a school. Mamma can give you a much more intelligent idea of it than +I can, but the building is a kind of barnlike structure--the Elizabethan +theater with a vengeance, and no stage properties except some little +live pines and a big painted one, and except costumes which are rich and +expensive and the masks which are likewise. It is an acquired taste, but +one which can be acquired very rapidly. If they weren't done with such +extraordinary art and technique they would probably be stupid, to a +foreigner anyway, but as it is they are fascinating, though it is hard +to say what the source of the fascination is aside from the perfection +of technique. Conscious control was certainly born and bred in Japan. + +Mr. Naruse had a very strong hold on people, and his funeral was an +event--all the autos and most of the 'rickshas in Tokyo must have been +there, and some eight or ten speakers, and even to me who could +understand nothing it was very impressive. One of the civilized things +is that before the speaker bowed to the audience--and they all bowed +back--he bowed to the remains, Which were in a coffin on the platform +with flowers, and more flowers than at an American funeral. + +We were to have gone to Baron Shibusawa's for tea and dinner this +afternoon, but his influenza has gone into pneumonia. + +To go back to Saturday. The reception was pleasant. We met the Americans +who are educators and in the missionary schools and colleges; +intelligent and well disposed, so far as I have seen. The criticism of +the missionaries seems to be rather cooked up. Just now there is a fuss +over them in Korea, because there is some agitation going on there for +independence, and it seems to have started with Koreans who had been in +missionary schools. The missionaries here seem much divided, some of +them blaming the missionaries over there, saying they will bring +Christianity into disrepute everywhere in Japan, and some saying that it +proves Christian teaching amounts to something and that it will have a +good effect in improving conditions, leading to foreign criticism and +publicity, and causing the Japanese to modify their colonial policy, +which seems to be under military rather than civil control. There is a +rumor that the ex-Emperor of Korea didn't die a natural death, but +committed suicide, with the hope of putting off or preventing the +marriage of his oldest son to a Japanese princess--they were to have +been married very soon. No one seems to know whether the story was +invented to encourage the revolutionaries in Korea or has truth in it. +Meanwhile they say the wedding is going to take place, and the Japanese +are sorry for their poor princess, who is sacrificed to marry a +foreigner. + +Thursday evening Mamma invited the X----'s and some others, eight +including ourselves, to supper in a Japanese restaurant, a beef +restaurant--they are all specialized--where we not only sat on the floor +and ate with chop sticks, but where the little slices of thin beefsteak +were brought in raw with vegetables to flavor, and cooked over a little +pan on a charcoal hibashi, one fire to each two persons. Naturally it +was lots of fun, a kind of inside picnic. + +Oh, yes, something happened Friday. We went to the Imperial Museum in +the morning and the curator showed us about--I won't describe a +museum--but on the way home we were taken into a pipe store and Mamma +purchased three little Japanese pipes, ladies' pipes, to take home. +Quite cunning, and the dealer said this was the first time he had ever +sold anything to a foreigner, so he presented her with a little ladies' +pouch and a pipe holder, both made from Holland cloth, not anything very +precious, but probably worth as much as her entire purchase, certainly +more than the profit on his sales. These things are quite touching and +an offset to the stories about their bad business methods, because it is +really a matter of hospitable courtesy to the foreigner, though he said +himself they generally put the price up for the foreigner on antiques. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, March 14. + + +We have just had a mild picnic. Mamma has a slight cold, so the maids +brought her supper up to her and for sociability brought mine up too. +Mamma got out a Japanese phrase book and pronounced various phrases to +them; to see them giggle and bend double, no theater was ever so funny. +When I got to my last bite, I inquired the name of the food, and said it +and "Sayonara"--good night. This old gag was a triumph of humor. They +are certainly a good-natured people. I have watched the children come +out from a public school near here, and never yet have I seen a case of +bullying or even of teasing, except of a very good-natured kind, no +quarreling and next to no disputing. Yet they are sturdy little things +and no mollycoddles. To see a boy of ten or twelve playing tag and +jumping ditches with a boy strapped to his back is a sight. There are no +public rebukes or scoldings of the children or even cross words, to say +nothing of slappings, no nagging, at least not in public. Some would say +that the children are not scolded because they are good, but it is a +fair guess that it is the other way. But it must be admitted that so far +as amiable exterior and cheerfulness and courtesy is concerned, they +have no bad examples set them. Some foreigners say all this is only skin +deep, but the manners of the foreigners who say these things aren't any +too good even from our standards. Anyway, skin deep is better than +nothing and good as far as it goes. However, the Japanese say that their +courtesy is reserved for their friends and people they know, not that +they have bad manners to strangers, but that they pay no attention to +them, and won't go out of their way to do anything for them. + +I told about the man who made Mamma a present when she bought the pipes. +Yesterday we were in that region and Mamma went in again and bought +another, and paid him a compliment on what people said about the +present. Whereupon he gets up and fishes out another more valuable +pouch, somewhat ragged and old, the kind the actors now use on the +stage, and offers it. Mamma naturally tries to avoid it, but can't. He +informs her through the friend with us that he likes Americans very +much. An international matter having been made of it, the pouch is +accepted, and now we have to think up some present to give him. However, +we have told this story to several Americans here, and they say they +have never heard anything like it. + +We were to have gone to the Peeress's School this morning, an +appointment having been made to show us about. Mamma's cold preventing +her going, we had somebody 'phone to see if the time could be changed. +And this afternoon appear for her some lovely lilies and +amaryllis--these being from people we had never seen. A Freudian would +readily infer how bad my own manners are from the amount I talk about +this. + +We went to a Japanese restaurant for supper. This was a fish restaurant, +and we cooked the fish and vegetables ourselves, but over gas, not +charcoal this time. Then we had side dishes, fish, lobster, etc., +innumerable. Instead of bringing you in a bill of fare to order from, +the coolie brings a big tray with samples of everything on it, and you +help yourself. One thing was abalones on the half shell, these being +babies, about like our clams, but not so tough, to say nothing of as +tough as the big ones. I didn't try the fried devil fish and other +luxuries, but wandered pretty far afield. When you have leisure, try +eating lobster in the shell with chop sticks. You will resort to +something more ancient than chop sticks, as I did. This restaurant is +quite plebeian, though it has a great reputation for its secret recipe +for the sauce the fish is cooked in, but it was considerably more +expensive than the other--probably because we sampled so many side +dishes; the other one cost less than five dollars for eight people--good +food and all anybody could eat. + + + + +TOKYO, March 14th. + + +The ceremony of breakfast is over, and I am sorry again you cannot all +share in these daily festivals which add so much to the dignity of +living. We are now studying Japanese with the aid of the maids. I missed +going to the Dolls' Festival at a private kindergarten and the +result--this morning by mail a postcard from the children with numerous +presents made by them, all dolls, and those I will send home, as they +are interesting. With the presents they say: "We made cakes and prepared +for your coming and we were in the depths of despair when you did not +come. Please come another time." I am sure there is no other country in +the world like this. The language is an impossible one. The way given in +the phrases of the guide book is the way the man speaks. So when I +stammer off those phrases the girls are literally tickled to death. When +they tell me what I ought to say in the more elaborated polite way of +the women, then I am floored. It is all an amusing game and relieves the +watch they keep on each bite we take so as to be ready to supply more. +Everything they do is marked with the kindliest attitude and every act +or move is one of friendship. + +This is the program for to-day: Go to lunch at the house of some +missionaries, then to father's lecture at 3:30, then to dinner for +University of Chicago students. To-morrow will be an open day for me and +the little secretary will take me shopping. The big department store is +the fashionable place where all the noble and rich buy their kimonos, +and I may supplement my secondhand attempts with a new one. When I get +to Kyoto I hope to find a real old one, as the new style of weave are +infected with foreign influence. The other evening with Y---- we found a +little shop for antiques which is a gem to look at. An old man and his +wife, Y---- says he bets they are Samurai, with the politeness of real +nobles, and their little place as carefully arranged for beauty as if it +were their home--which it is. I broke an old Kutani plate and I inquired +for one there. They had none, but we looked at their things, they with +many bows, and when we left said we were sorry to have troubled them for +nothing. They replied, "Please excuse us for not having the thing you +wanted." + +To-morrow we go to lunch here in the neighborhood with a very clever and +interesting family (of a professor). None of the women call, at least +none of the married ones, all being afraid of their English for one +reason, but I am learning to just take things as they come and not to +bother over formalities, never knowing whether that is the best way or +not. The wedding of last Tuesday was the most interesting function I +have seen. The marriage ceremony was the Christian one. The company +represented the rich and fashionable of the city. The ladies all wear +black crepe kimonos, that splendid crepe which is so heavy, next under +the black is an all white of soft china silk, then the third of bright +color. K----'s was that bright vermilion red. Her sleeves were not very +long, as she is a mother, but the young girls wear bright colored +kimonos and long sleeves that almost touch the floor. The bride wears +black, too. All these dress-up kimonos have decorations in color, +sometimes embroidered and sometimes dyed on the lower points of the +front. The bride's was spread out on the floor around her just like the +old pictures, embroidered in heavy rose peonies, her undergarment and +the lining of the black, in rose color. Her hair was done in the old +conventional way shown in the prints with the long pins of light +tortoise shell with bouquets of tiny flowers carved at the ends, which +stuck out about three inches, making a crown over her head. The +receiving party is as follows: First, father of groom; second, mother of +bride; third, groom; fourth, bride; fifth, father of bride; sixth, +mother of groom. The line is straight and the bride is perfectly +arranged like an old print, she and the groom with their eyes cast down. +As each person passes, they make bows all along the line at once, but +they do not move hand or eyes or a fold of these perfect clothes. I +forgot to say the men, unfortunately, wear European dress. Then we moved +on to two large rooms, the men all seated and smoking in one, and the +women in the other. Those who knew me were very kind. Countess H---- +introduced me to the bridesmaids; at least they would be the maids at +home. They were the sisters and young relatives all dressed in the most +brilliant kimonos and embroidered and decorated to the limit; they +looked like all the parrots and peacocks and paradise and blue birds and +every lovely color imaginable, while the uniform black of the guests, +decorated with the pure white of their crests which stand out in such a +group, formed the perfect background, free from all the messiness which +is so apparent in a diversified gathering of all sorts of color and +shape and materials in our land. At tea, which was very elaborate and +taken sitting at the tables, the family of the two filled one table, a +long one at the end of the room. The bride now wore a green kimono, +equally brilliant; about two feet away from her sat the groom, both in +the middle of the long table. + + + + +TOKYO, Thursday, March 20. + + +We have had a number of social events this week. Tuesday evening General +H----, who speaks no English but who came over on the _Shinyo_ with us, +gave a party for us in the gardens of the Arsenal Grounds. We could not +have entered the Arsenal Grounds in any other way. There were about +twenty-five people there, mostly Christian Association people, and the +clergyman of the Japanese church where I had spoken the night before. He +is keen about introducing more democracy in Japan, and I spoke on the +moral meaning of democracy. Well, the garden isn't a garden at all in +our sense, but a park, and the finest in Tokyo outside of the Imperial +ones. It is quite different from the miniature ones we know as Japanese +gardens, being of fair size, with none of those cunning little +imitations in it; big imitations there are in plenty, as it was a fad of +the old landscapists, as you might know, to reproduce on a small scale +celebrated scenes elsewhere. The old Daimyo, who built this one two +hundred years ago, was a great admirer of the Chinese and reproduced +several famous Chinese landscapes as well as one from Kyoto. The +extraordinary thing is the amount of variety they get in a small space; +they could reproduce the earth, including the Alps and a storm in the +Irish Channel, if they had Central Park. Every detail counts; it is all +so artistically figured out and every little rock has a meaning of its +own so that a barbarian can only get a surface view. It would have to be +studied like an artist's masterpiece to take it all in. The arsenal +factory fumes have killed many of the old trees and much of the glory +has departed. + +Probably Mamma has written you that she has one young woman, Japanese, +coming on the ship with us under her care, to New York to study; and +to-day another young lady called, and said she wanted to go back to +America. About the young women going home with us, Y---- said we would +have to be careful, as one time his mother was offered seventeen damsels +to escort when she was going over, of whom she took three. You may not +appreciate the fact that going to America to study means practically +giving up marriage; they will be old maids and out of it by the time +they return--also those who have been in America do not take kindly to +having a marriage arranged for them. At a lecture I listened to +yesterday, a Japanese woman, close to thirty, was pointed out to me as +about to get married to an American architect here. There are +exceptions, but this case is evidently a famous romance. The lecture was +on Social Aspects of Shinto; Shinto is the official cult though not the +established religion of Japan. Although nothing is said that wasn't +scientifically a matter of course to be said--I mean supposing it was +scientifically correct--one of the most interesting things was the +caution that was taken to avoid publication of anything said. On one +side the Imperial Government is theocratic, and this is the most +sensitive side, so that historical criticism or analysis of old +documents is not indulged in, the Ancestors being Gods or the Gods being +Ancestors. One bureaucratic gentleman felt sure that the divine +ancestors must have left traces of their own language somewhere, so he +investigated the old shrines, and sure enough he found on some of the +beams characters different from Chinese or Japanese. These he copied and +showed for the original language--till some carpenters saw them and +explained that they were the regular guild marks. + + + + +KAMAKURA, Thursday, March 27. + + +This weather beats Chicago for changeableness. Monday, at midnight, it +was storming rain; when we got up the next day it was the brightest, +warmest day we have had. We spent it sightseeing and went out without an +overcoat. The magnolia trees are in full bloom. Yesterday and to-day are +as raw March days as I ever saw anywhere; there would have been frost +last night but for the wind. Tuberculosis is rife here and no wonder. + +Three of the University professors have called on me this morning. They +wish to arrange in every detail for our movements when we leave here. I +suppose I was asked twenty times how long we are to stay in Kamakura. +When I said I didn't know, it depended on weather and other things, they +said, "Oh, yes," and in five minutes asked the same question again. +Whether they arrange everything in minute detail for themselves in +advance or whether they think we are helpless foreigners I can't make +out; some of both, I think. But they can't understand that we can't give +an exact date for everything we are going to do till we go to China. At +the same time I never knew anybody to change their own plans, especially +socially, as much as they do. + +There is a great anti-American drive on now; seems to be largely +confined to newspapers, but also stimulated artificially somewhat, +presumably by the militaristic faction, which has lost more prestige in +the last few months than in years, with a corresponding gain in liberal +sentiment. They have consequently found it necessary to do something to +come back. Criticism of the United States is the easiest way to arrest +the spread of liberal sentiments and strengthen the arguments for a big +militaristic party, like twisting the lion's tail with us. Discussion +about race discrimination is very active and largely directed against +the United States in spite of Australia and Canada, and also in spite of +the fact that Chinese and Korean immigration here is practically +forbidden, and they discriminate more against the Chinese than we do +against them. But consistency is not the strong point of politics in any +country. Excepting on the subject of race discrimination, foreigners in +contact with Japanese do not find the anti-American feeling which is +expressed in papers. If the Anglo-Japanese treaty of alliance should +lapse because of the League of Nations or anything else, America will be +held responsible, even if the British are the cause. Two years ago there +was a similar anti-British drive here, and pretty hard bargains were +driven with the British ally in all war matters. Now that Germany and +Russia are out of it, England has no apparent reason for snuggling up +much and the shoe is on the other foot. Which makes the attack on the +U.S. all the more stupid, as they are internationally quite lonely, even +if they tie up with France on account of similar Russian interests, +financial and otherwise. + + + + +TOKYO, Wednesday, March 28. + + +To-morrow we are going to Kamakura again; it is only an hour and a half +from here. We are going to take a little trip into the mountain and +hot-spring district also, but the cherry blossom season is much +advanced, ten days earlier than usual, and we are afraid it will spring +itself in our absence if we go far, so probably we shall be back here in +a few days for about a week. Then we shall take a five-day trip on our +way to Kyoto, going to the shrine at Ise. This is the oldest and most +sacred Shinto shrine in Japan, which means that it is the central spot +for imperial ancestor worship. Speaking of ancestors, you remember our +references to the Count. The father of his first wife has recently been +made a Baron. Parliament being over, the Count has left for the southern +Island to inform the ancestors of his first wife, who are buried there, +of the important item of family gossip. The oldest liberal statesman of +aristocratic descent, who was quite intimate with the late Emperor, +won't go to the annual meeting to celebrate the granting of the +Constitution by the late Emperor because he is so disgusted that no more +progress has been made in constitutionalism, and says he cannot meet his +late master until he can report progress to him. Otherwise he would be +ashamed to meet him as he feels responsible to the Emperor. This would +not be any place for a spiritualist to earn his living. They are clear +past mediums. + +We have chiefly been eating lately. I had two Japanese meals, a la chop +sticks, yesterday and one to-day. Luncheon yesterday at a restaurant, +where we had lots of things you never heard of, to say nothing of eating +them, and a dinner at a friend's. There were twelve courses at table and +two or three afterwards--not counting tea, and much the same at another +dinner to-night. We have a bill of fare written on fans, only in +Japanese, and little silver salt cellars as souvenirs besides. One +feature of both dinners was soup three times, at the beginning, about +the middle and again at closing, at these functions rice is not served +till near the last course. Then there were one or two semi-soupy courses +thrown in. I can eat raw fish and ask no questions; and in a bird +restaurant, Sunday for luncheon, I ate raw chicken wrapped in seaweed; +abalone is my middle name, and some of the shell fish we eat is probably +devil fish. + +We have been here over six weeks now, and in taking an inventory it can +be said that while we have not done as much sightseeing as some six-day +tourists, I think we have seen more Japanese under normal home +conditions than most Americans in six months, and have seen an unusually +large number of people to talk to, not the official crowd but the +representative intellectual liberals. I have seen less but found out +more than I ever expected about Japanese conditions, which is quite the +opposite of European experience in traveling. When I come back I shall +try to see a few of the official people, since I now know enough to +judge what they may say. On the whole, America ought to feel sorry for +Japan, or at least sympathetic with it, and not afraid. When we have so +many problems it seems absurd to say they have more, but they certainly +have fewer resources, material and human, in dealing with theirs than we +have, and they have still to take almost the first step in dealing with +many of them. It is very unfortunate for them that they have become a +first-class power so rapidly and with so little preparation in many +ways; it is a terrible task for them to live up to their position and +reputation and they may crack under the strain. + + + + +TOKYO, Tuesday, April 1. + + +The Japanese do one thing that we should do well to imitate. They teach +the children in school a very nice lesson about the beauty and the +responsibility of being polite and kind to the foreigner, like being so +to the guests of your own house. This adds to the national dignity. + +Yesterday the Emperor got out and I caught him at it. Quite an amazing +and lucky experience for me and no harm to him, as I had not known he +ever went out before I picked him up in the street. I went down our hill +as usual with a friend to take the car. At this side of the street where +the car passes, we walk across the bridge on the canal and then turn and +walk one block to the car stop. When we got to the other side of the +bridge all the people on both sides of the street were massed in a nice +little quiet line and three policemen were carefully and gently placing +each one according to his height so he could see as well as possible. So +we lined in with the rest while the policeman looked on in an +encouraging fashion. Nobody spoke out loud, and after I had noticed the +friend with me having a conversation with the officer, I ventured to ask +why we were left standing there. With the same quiet, she said: "The +Emperor is passing on his way to the commencement exercises of Waseda +University." Well, you could have knocked me over with a feather. I +don't suppose I should have known what was happening at all unless I +could have figured it out from the Chrysanthemums on the carriage doors. +I said to her: "How is he coming, in an automobile? How long are we to +stand here?" I had visions of the stories about the streets being +cleared, and the doors shut for some hours while white sand was +sprinkled over the car tracks, and all the rest. "No," she said, "just a +little time." I saw by now that I was not likely to have much gossip +poured out to me about the Emperor, so I just fixed a nice little thing +about three years old in front of me and then we waited with the rest of +the school children. Soon the procession came, first a body of horse in +plain khaki uniforms, then one very Japanese-looking man alone on the +back seat in one of the light victorias, very clean and shiny, with the +Chrysanthemums on the door. He was dressed in a khaki wool uniform just +like the rest of the army with a cap on his head. Then came some other +shiny, light little victorias with two horses, all just alike. I +rubbered my best and I had a very good look at the one little man alone +in the middle of the seat, and sitting up and looking straight ahead of +him pleasantly. In the midst of the passing I asked the companion with +me, "Which is the Emperor?" and she answered "The one in the first +carriage," and still there was that quiet of perfect breeding; and by +and by all the nice little soldiers on horseback passed, and after I had +stood a little longer on the edge of my bridge I started our little +procession moving towards the car. The Emperor had gone the opposite +way. After a little I said: "I did not know the Emperor went to +commencements and things like that," and I chattered on, and then my +companion said in her slow, proper, calm tone: "That is my first +experience to see the Emperor, too." And I said "Is that so?" and asked +some more questions, still wondering that no one had called out a Banzai +nor made a sound, and it is not till to-day that I learned that all the +people were standing with their eyes cast down to the ground, and that I +was the only one who looked at the Emperor, and their reverence was so +great that that was the reason I had not heard them breathe. For another +thing, Waseda is the liberal university and private, so I wondered still +till I learned then that the Emperor was going to the Peers' School +commencement, and that is the one commencement he goes to every year. So +you see I had luck, and my conscience was clear for having rubbered, and +I have seen the Emperor. + +The Imperial Garden party comes off the week after we leave Tokyo. To +this party all the nobles of the third rank and above, and all the +professors in the Imperial University, and all the foreigners of latest +arrival, are asked. So a foreigner can go just once and no more unless a +Professor. We put our names down in the Ambassador's book for an +invitation before we knew all the niceties of the case. So now that we +have learned that we can go once and no more, and that we are expected +to go if we are invited, we will take back our request for an invitation +as the party is on the 17th of April, and we are to be in Kyoto on the +15th. So in our good luck, a daughter of a Baron, who is a member of the +Imperial household, has asked us to go with her to-morrow to see the +Imperial Garden where the party is to be and we may see the gardens all +the better. This Imperial Garden is one of the prince's gardens and not +the one behind the moat where the Emperor lives. It seems the fall +chrysanthemum party is in that garden, though never inside the inner +moat where no one goes unless he has an audience. The moat and the +surroundings of the palace are lovely, but as you can read the guide +book if you want a description, I will not bore you with an attempt. The +walls of the moat were built by labor of the feudal dependencies, and +like all such labor it spared no pains to be splendid. Some of the moats +have been filled up long ago, but there are still three around the +palace. Inside the outer one you may walk part of the time and see the +grand gates with their solemn guards. In these gardens the air is fresh +and the birds sing in the trees, and the dust of the city never gets +there. + +To-night I am wearing tabi, those nice little toe socks which will not +fit my feet, but which are so much nicer than the felt toe slippers that +fall off your feet every time you go upstairs. As a matter of fact, I +wear ordinary house slippers in this house, but it is nicer not to and +we always take them off when we come in from outdoors. Truly, the +Japanese are a cleaner people than we are. Have I told you we bathe in a +Japanese tub? Every night a hot, very hot wooden box over three feet +deep is filled for us. This one has water turned in from a faucet, but +in Kamakura the little charcoal stove is in the end of the tub and the +water is carried in by buckets, and is reheated each night. It seems all +right and I regret all the years our country went without bath tubs, and +all the fuss we made to get them when this little, simple device was all +there and as old as the hills. But we can catch up with the heating and +cooking with charcoal hibashi. + +We have learned to eat with chop sticks very well, and it is not a bad +way. The main objection I see to it is that one eats too fast, and +Fletcherizing is not known in this country. The nice little way of doing +your own cooking is something to introduce for cuteness in New York. +These last few days we have just been sightseeing in the real European +sense, running about town and buying small things all day and then +having the wonderful advantage of coming back to this delightful home of +perfect comfort at night, which is quite unlike Europe, and spoils us +for the common lot of knocking about. + +The greatest actor of the country is here. He belongs in Osaka, his name +is Ganjiro, and we have a box for Thursday. The play is the one that was +given in New York called "Bushido." It is much longer than as given +there. It is called by another name and is acted quite differently. On +Sunday we are going again to the Noh Dance, or if no good tickets are to +be had for that, we are going to a theater where women act all the parts +to offset the usual way here of having only men in the company. The men +who act women's parts here do make up very well. They live and dress and +act as women all the time so as not to lose the art. Only when they +stand in pose they cannot conceal the fact that they are men. The play +begins at one in the afternoon and lasts until ten at night. Tea and +dinner is brought into your box in those nice little lacquer lunch +boxes. Ganjiro is on the stage in every scene for eight hours, so you +can see the actors work for their art here. The costumes are superb, but +the actors do not simply strut to show off. Their speech being very +affected in manner they have had to depend upon expression to get +results, and as a consequence their acting is done with their entire +body more than any other school in the world. The best ones, like the +ones we are to see, can express any emotion, so 'tis said, with their +backs and the calves of their legs when you can't see their faces. + + + + +TOKYO, April 1. + + +Our activities of late have been miscellaneous; we spent three days, +counting coming and going four days, at Kamakura last week. It is on the +seaside and is a great resort, summer and winter, for the Japanese, and +at the hotel for Europeans over weekends. For summers the foreigners go +to the mountains, while the Japanese take to the seaside, largely +because there is more for the children to do on the seashore, but partly +because mountains seem to be an acquired taste. Kamakura is about ten +degrees warmer than Tokyo, as it is sheltered by the hills. Peas were in +blossom and the cherry trees all out. It was cold and rainy while we +were there, however, except one day, when we crowded in so much +sightseeing we got rather tired. Mamma and I are now catching up on +calls, prior to leaving and doing some sightseeing. To-day we went to a +shop where they publish very fine reproductions of the old art of Japan, +including Chinese paintings owned in Japan, much better worth buying +than the color print reproductions to my mind, though we have laid in +some reproductions of the latter. There are so many millionaires made by +the war in Japan, that lots of the old lords are selling out part of +their treasures now; prices I think are too high even for Americans. The +old Daimyo families evidently have enough business sense to take +advantage of the market, though some are hard up and sell more for that +reason. A week ago we went to an auction room where there was a big +collection of genuine old stuff, much finer than appears in the curio +shops, and this weekend there is another big sale by a Marquis. However, +it is said they keep the best things and unload on the nouveau riche; +not but what a lot of it is mighty good as it is. + +My other experience that I have not written about is seeing Judo. The +great Judo expert is president of a normal school, and he arranged a +special exhibition by experts for my benefit, he explaining the theory +of each part of it in advance. It took place Sunday morning in a big +Judo hall, and there were lots of couples doing "free" work, too; they +are too quick for my eye in that to see anything but persons suddenly +thrown over somebody's back and flopped down on the ground. It is really +an art. The Professor took the old practices and studied them, worked +out their mechanical principles, and then devised a graded scientific +set of exercises. The system is really not a lot of tricks, but is based +on the elementary laws of mechanics, a study of the equilibrium of the +human body, the ways in which it is disturbed, how to recover your own +and take advantage of the shiftings of the center of gravity of the +other person. The first thing that is taught is how to fall down without +being hurt, that alone is worth the price of admission and ought to be +taught in all our gyms. It isn't a good substitute for out-of-door +games, but I think it is much better than most of our inside formal +gymnastics. The mental element is much stronger. In short, I think a +study ought to be made here from the standpoint of conscious control. +Tell Mr. Alexander to get a book by Harrison--a compatriot of his--out +of the library, called "The Fighting Spirit of Japan." It is a +journalist's book, not meant to be deep, but is interesting and said to +be reliable as far as it goes. I noticed at the Judo the small waists of +all these people; they breathe always from the abdomen. Their biceps are +not specially large, but their forearms are larger than any I have ever +seen. I have yet to see a Japanese throw his head back when he rises. In +the army they have an indirect method of getting deep breathing which +really goes back to the Buddhist Zen teaching of the old Samurai. +However, they have adopted a lot of the modern physical exercises from +other armies. + +The gardens round here are full of cherry trees in blossom--and the +streets are full of people too full of sake. The Japanese take their +drunkenness apparently seasonly, as we hadn't seen drunken people till +now. + + + + +TOKYO, April 2. + + +We have had another great day to-day. This morning rose early and wrote +letters, which were not sent in spite of the haste, as we decided the +slow boat was slower than waiting for a later and faster one. So you +ought to get many letters at once. The day has been sunshiny and bright, +but not at all sultry, so perfect for getting about. We went to the art +store to get some prints which we had selected the day before and then +on to call on a Professor of Political Economy, who is also a member of +Parliament, radical and very wide awake and interesting, quite like an +American in his energy and curiosity and interest. We visited and +learned a lot about things here and there and then he took us to lunch +at his mother-in-law's house. They have a beautiful house in Japanese +style, with a foreign style addition, like most of the houses of the +rich, the Japanese part having no resemblance whatever to the foreign, +which is so much less beautiful. In carpets and table covers and +tapestries imitated from the German, the Japanese have no taste, while +in their own line they remain exquisite. This house is one of the most +absolute cleanliness. No floor in it but shines like a mirror and has +not a fleck of dust, never had one. Let me see if I can describe +accurately this entertainment. We took three 'rickshas and rode through +the cherry lined narrow streets over hills where are the lovely gardens +of the rich showing through the gateways and showing over the top of the +bamboo walls, which are built of poles about six feet long upright and +tied together with cords. They are very pretty with the green. When we +reached the house Mr. U---- took us in to the foreign drawing room, +which is very mid-Victorian and German in its general effect. This one +has in it a beautiful lacquer cabinet, very large and quite overpowering +every other thing in the room. There the ladies of the house came in and +made their bows, very amiable and smiling at our thanks for their +hospitality. The sister-in-law, a young girl of sixteen, who wants to go +to America, and afterwards the grandmother, very much the commanding +character that a grandmother ought to be. The children hovered round +them all much like our children. The ladies brought us tea with their +own hands in lovely blue and white cups with little lacquer stands and +covers. Candy with the tea, which was green. I forgot to say that we had +already, during the hour with Mr. U---- had tea three different times +and of three different kinds, besides little refreshments therewith. +After a little we were summoned to lunch. Three places set on a low +table and a beautiful blue brocade cushion to sit upon. The two younger +ladies on their knees ready to serve us. They poured out wine for us, or +Vermouth, and we took the latter. We had before us, each, one lacquer +bowl, covered, that contained the usual fish soup with little pieces of +fish and green things cut up in it. This we drink, putting the solid +bits into our mouths with the chop sticks. The grandmother thought she +ought to have prepared foreign food, but the clever girl of sixteen had +spoken for home food, and so we thanked them for giving that to us, as +we seldom get a real genuine Japanese meal. And this is the first we +have had where we were served by the ladies of the house, except the +dolls' food at the festival. It seems this is the highest compliment +that we have had, as the real Japanese home is open to the foreigner +only when the foreigner is asked to sit on the floor and is served by +the ladies of the household. They kneel near the table and the maid +brings the dishes and hands them to the ladies, who in turn serve the +dishes to the guests. It is very pretty. I have reached the stage where +I can sit on my heels for the length of a meal, but I rise very +awkwardly, as my feet are asleep clear up to my knees at the end. We ate +soup, cold fried lobster and shrimps, which are dipped in sauce besides; +and cold vegetables in another bowl, and then hot fried fish; then some +little pickles, then rice, of which the Japanese eat several bowls, then +the dessert, which has been beside you all the time, and is a cold +omelette, which tastes very good, and then they give you tea, Formosa +oolong. We had toast, too, but that is foreign. Then we left the table +and were shown the rooms upstairs, which contain many pieces of lacquer +and bronze and woodwork, and then we went down and there was tea and a +dish of fruit ready for us. We had not much time for this, as they were +going to send us in a motor to the Imperial Gardens. But as the last +kind of tea had to be brought we were at the door putting on our shoes +when it arrived. This tea is strong oolong and has milk in it, with two +lumps of sugar for you to put in yourself. Thus we had been served with +tea six times within three hours. + +It is hard to describe the Imperial Gardens. Read the guide book and you +will see that it is. Ten thousand orchid plants were the beginning of +the sight. We saw the lettuce and the string beans and the tomatoes and +potatoes and eggplant and melons, and all growing under glass, for the +Emperor to eat. Never saw such perfect lettuce, all the heads in one +frame of exactly the same size and arrangement, as if they were +artificial, and all the others just right. Why potatoes under glass? +Don't ask me. Grapes in pots looked as if the raising of grapes under +glass was in its beginning, but maybe not, as I was not familiar enough +with those little vines to know whether they would bear or not. The +flowers in the frames were perfection. Masses of Mignonette daisies, and +some other bright flowers I did not know were ready to put out in the +beds which were prepared for the garden party. We cannot go on the 17th. +A very large pavilion with shingle roof under which the Emperor and +Empress are to sit at the party is being built and will be taken down +the next day, or rather week, as it will take more than one day. Then if +it rains there will be no party. To-night it looks as if rain might +spoil the blossoms. But to-day was perfect. It is a little surprising +when one sees this famous garden after reading about Japanese gardens +for all one's life. There is such a large expanse of grass with no +flowers and the grass does not get green here so soon as with us, and it +is now all brown, though big masses of daffodils are superb. These under +the cherry trees with the sunshine shining through slantways made one of +the brilliant sights of a lifetime. The artificial lakes and rivers and +waterfall and the bridges and islands and hills with big birds walking +and swimming make enough to have come for to Japan. The groups of trees +are as fine as anything can be and across the long expanses the view of +them is like a succession of pictures. There are a hundred and +sixty-five acres in the park, no buildings. In the beginning it was +pretty well to one side of the city, but now it is on a car track of +much travel, though still on the outskirts on its outer edge. + +On Monday we have arranged to go to the theater again at the Imperial. +To-day it is the great actor Ganjiro at a small theater. It is said the +jealousy of the Tokyo actors and managers keeps Ganjiro from getting a +fair chance when he comes here. Mr. T----, formerly of Chicago, has just +been here to try to arrange a dinner for us before we leave, the dinner +to be at a restaurant with all the old students present. The restaurants +are always amusing and we agreed, of course. This may keep us in Tokyo +one day longer, though that is not decided yet. For the rest of the time +we are to make up on calls as far as we can and ride about to see the +cherry blossoms, and I hope we may see some of the famous tea houses. +Thus far we have seen no tea house at all, and there is not one +afternoon tea house where ladies go in this city excepting the +new-fashioned department stores, and they do not stand for anything +different than they do with us. This shows how little the real ladies of +Tokyo go out of their houses. + +The Sumida river is a big river gathering up all the small streams from +one side of the mountains. It is full of junks and other craft and is +the center of much history, both for Tokyo as a city and for the whole +country. + + + + +TOKYO, April 4. + + +Ganjiro, the greatest actor from Osaka, is acting here now, and the show +was great. He did the scene among other things they did in New York +under the name of "Bushido." A dance by a fox who had taken the form of +a man was a wonderful thing. There is no use in trying to describe it. +It was not just slow posturings, like the other Japanese dances we have +seen, nor was it as wild as the Russian dancers; he did it alone, no +companion, male or female. But it was as free as the Russian and much +more classic at the same time. You will never realize what the human +hand and arm can do until you see this. He put on a number of masks and +then acted or danced according to the type of mask he had on. He can do +an animal's motions without any clawing--as graceful and lithe as a cat. +He is a son of an old man Ganjiro. + +Our last days here are rather crowded and we aren't going to get the +things done that should be done. Cherry blossoms are at their +height--another thing indescribable, but if dogwood trees were bigger +and the blossoms were tinged with pink without being pink it would give +the effect more than anything else I know. The indescribable part is the +tree full of blossoms without leaves; of course you get that in the +magnolias, but they are coarse where the cherry is delicate. We went to +a museum to-day, which is finer in some respects than the Imperial; gods +till you can't rest, and wonderful Chinese things, everything except +paintings. + + + + +TOKYO, April 8. + + +We are actually packing up and get away to-morrow morning at 8:30--we +travel all day, the first part till four o'clock on the fastest train in +Japan. The ordinary trains make about fifteen miles an hour, Japan +having unfortunately adopted narrow gauge in early days and going on the +well-known principle of safety first. We have had various and sundry +experiences since writing, the most interesting being on Sunday, when we +were taken into the country both to see the cherry blossoms and the +merry-makers; the time is a kind of a carnival and mild saturnalia based +on bright clothes, and wigs, and sake, about ninety per cent sake. +There were a few besides ourselves not intoxicated, but not many. +Everybody practiced whatever English he knew on us, one dressed-up +fellow informing us "I Chrallie Chaplin," and he was as good an +imitation as most. Aside from one fight we saw no rudeness and not much +boisterousness, the mental effect being apparently to make them +confidential and demonstrative. Usually they are very reserved with one +another, but Sunday it looked as if they were telling each other all +their deepest secrets and life ambitions. Our host of the day laughed +most benevolently all the time, not excluding when a fellow dressed in +bright red woman's clothes insisted on riding on the running board. They +get drunk so seldom that it didn't appeal to him so much as a drunk as +it did as a popular festival; the people really were happy. + +There were miles of trees planted each side of a canal that supplies +Tokyo with water, all kinds of trees and in all stages of development, +from no blossoms to full, no leaf and beautiful little pink leaves. The +blossoms are dropping, it is almost a mild snowfall, and yet the trees +seem full. + +Yesterday we went to the theater again, the Imperial, a party of ten +filling two boxes. We were taken behind the scenes and shown the green +rooms, etc., and introduced to an actor and to his son, about eleven, +who appeared on the stage later and did a very pretty dance. He had a +teacher in the room and was doing his Chinese writing lesson, never +looked up till he was spoken to, about the handsomest and most +intelligent looking lad I have seen in Japan. Acting is practically an +hereditary profession here. I doubt if an outsider not trained from +early childhood could possibly do the acting anyway, and I don't think +the guild would let him break in if he could, though one man of British +extraction has been quite successful on the Japanese stage. We saw some +very interesting things yesterday, including dances, and learned that +they are very anxious to come to America, but they want a patron. If the +scenes were selected with great care to take those that have lots of +action and not so much talking, and the libretto was carefully +explained, they could make a hit in New York at least. + +Our other blowout was the other evening at a Japanese classic tea house, +a part of a Noh dance for entertainment and a twelve-course meal or so. +The most interesting thing though is talking to people. On the whole I +think we have a chance to see people who know Japan much better than +most. We haven't been officialized and putting the different things +together I think we have as good an acquaintance with the social +conditions as anybody would be likely to get in eight weeks. An +experienced journalist could get it, so far as information is concerned, +in a few days, but I think things have to be soaked in by cumulative +impressions to get the feel of the thing and the background. When they +told me first that this was a great psychological moment, that +everything was critical and crucial, I didn't know what they meant, and +I could hardly put it in words now, any more than they did, but I know +inside of me. There are few external signs of a change, but Japan is +nearly in the condition she was in during the first years of contact and +opening up of things fifty or so years ago, so far as the mental +readiness for change is concerned, and the next few years may see rapid +social changes. + + + + +NARA, April 12. + + +Well, we have started on our journey and have seen Japan for the first +time, scenically speaking, that is to say. The first day's ride from +Tokyo to Nagoya was interesting, but not particularly so except for +Fuji, which we saw off and on for several hours, and on three sides. As +sometimes it isn't visible, and we had a fine warm day, we had good +luck. Nagoya is where the best old castle in Japan is, you may even in +your benighted country and estate have heard of the two golden dolphins +on top. The castle is an imperial palace and it turned out that you have +to have a permit from Tokyo, but we set out to try to get in, and as we +had met a nice young man at the X----'s in Tokyo who came from Nara, we +telephoned him, and while we didn't get in through him (he said he could +never get in himself under any circumstances) he promptly asked us to +dinner. Then we were taken to the swellest tea house in Nara and had +another of those elaborate dinners, on what he called the tea-istic +plan. We began with the tea ceremony without the ceremony but with the +powdered tea, the bowl being prepared for each one separately in +succession. The Nara cooking is better, we all thought, than the Tokyo, +the food being more savory and the variety of flavors greater, an +opinion which pleased our host. Expressing some curiosity about some +four-inch trout which seemed to have a sugar caramel coating, we found +that they were cooked in a kind of liquor which deposited the sweetness, +and then we were presented with a bottle of the drink known as Mirin, so +now we are lugging glassware. Then after the dinner he said that he +hoped that we would not think him guilty of improper action, but that he +had invited the best samisen player and singer in Nagoya, and also some +dancers. In other words, some geishas were introduced and sang, played +and danced before King David. There are all grades from those comparable +to chorus girls at Jack's to high grade actresses, and these were of the +upper kind. He said he wished us to see something of true Japan which +few foreigners saw, this referring to the restaurant as well as the +dancing. They won't receive anybody who isn't an old client or friend of +one of these high toned places. But the ladies of the party thought he +was especially interested in one of the girls. Personally I think the +dancing and music are much more interesting than they are reported to be +in the guide books. + +The next day we went to the primitive Ise shrines, arriving cross and +hungry at about two, but bound to get the pilgrimage over, especially as +it wasn't good weather. Yamada, where the sacred shrines are, is a very +beautiful place, with wooded hills and little streams. The trees are +largely cryptomerias, which are evidently some relative of the +California redwoods, and while not nearly as tall, make much the same +effect. It is a darling spot, filled with the usual thousands of carpet +bagger (literally the old Brussel carpet bags) pilgrims. As previously +reported I toted a borrowed frock coat and stovepipe hat. Our guide said +special clothing was not needed for the ladies. I put on my war paint, +and the chief priest having been written from Tokyo of our impending +arrival, an hour had been set. At the outermost gate, the Torii, the +ceremony of purification, took place. We had water poured out on our +hands out of a little ceremonial cup and basin and then the priest +sprinkled salt on us; nobody else had this but us. Then when we got to +the fence gate, we were told that the ladies not having "visiting +dresses," whatever they are, couldn't go inside, but that I should be +treated as of the same rank as an Imperial professor and allowed to go. +I forgot to say that we had a gendarme in front of us to shoo the vulgar +herd out of our way. Then we marched slowly in behind the priest, on +stones brought from the seaside, through a picket fence to designated +spots near the next fence, I being allowed nearer to the gate than our +Japanese guide; and we worshiped, that is bowed. I got my bow over +disgracefully quick, but I think our Japanese conductor stood at least +fifteen minutes. + + + + +KYOTO, April 15. + + +Here we are in the Florence of Japan, and even more to see if possible +than in Italy. We have had a rainy day to-day, which is perhaps a good +beginning for a week of constant sightseeing. This morning we spent in +Yamanaka's--the most beautiful shop I ever saw, composed of the finest +Japanese rooms of the finest proportions and filled with the most +beautiful art specimens of all kinds. But the kinds are properly +assorted in true Japanese fashion. I bought a red brocade. It is a +panel, old red with figures of gold and some dark blue, peonies and +birds. It is what the Buddhist priests wear over the left arm in +procession. We have the certificate that it is over a hundred years old. +The panel is about five feet long and one wide, the strips which compose +it are four in number, sewed in seams, which turn the corners in mortise +fashion, and yet they all match perfectly. Most of these strips are +woven in these ribbons and sewed together. I got a second one which is +purple with splendid big birds and peonies again. I like the peony in +brocade much better than the chrysanthemum or the smaller flowers. Some +fine ones with pomegranates are tempting, but I did not buy the most +beautiful on account of the prospects of spending money better in China. +I also bought a pretty tea set which I have here in my room--it cost 30 +sen, which means fifteen cents for teapot and five cups, gray pottery +with blue decorations. There are many cheaper ones that are pretty too. +Tomorrow we go to the original temple where the tea ceremony originated +and are to participate in the tea ceremony, which the high priest will +perform for us. You better get a guide book and read about the temples +of Kyoto, as they are too numerous to tell about in letters. We have the +municipal car for all these occasions. Good thing we do, for Kyoto has +shrunk like a nut in its shell since the days of its ancient capital +size and the distances between temples are enormous. Next day we go to +the Imperial Palaces, and so go on and on getting fatter and fatter. + +The weather and the spring time are superb. Cherry blossoms were gone +when we got here, but the young leaves of the maples are lovely green or +red and the whole earth is paradise now. The hills are nearer than in +Florence, the mountains higher, so that Kyoto has every natural beauty. +We shall only have a week here and then go to Osaka, where the puppet +theater is and where there is a school of drama, of which Ganjiro is the +leader. It is the doll theater we want to see, because that is the +origin of all acting in Japan. Many of the conventions of the theater +are based on the movements of the puppets. + +Kyoto in many respects is the most lovely thing the world has to show, +such a combination of nature and art as one dreams of. These wonderful +temples of enormous size, of natural wood filled with paintings and +sculpture of an ancient and unknown kind, fascinate one to the point of +feeling there must be many more worlds when such multiplicity of ideas +and feelings can exist on a single planet, and we live unconscious of +the whole of it or even of any part of its extent. The gardens we have +seen to-day are the old Japan unchanged since they were made a thousand +years ago, when they took the ancient ideas of China and India for +models. The temples of Tokyo seem like shabby relics of a worn-out era, +but here the perfection of their art remains and is kept intact. The +landscape of the first Buddhist monastery, where the tea ceremony +originated, has the same rivers and islands and little piles of sand +which were placed in the beginning, all in miniature, and planted with +miniature trees, all imitations of real scenes in China when China was +the land of culture. Now they say even the originals are destroyed in +China, which is so out of repair that it depresses every one who sees +it. Fifty years ago they advertised for sale here in Nara, a lovely +pagoda five stories high for fifty yen. It is obviously necessary for +some American millionaire to buy up the massive gates and pagodas and +temples of China in order to redeem them from complete ruin. The +Japanese are the one people who have waked up in time to the value of +these historic things, and several of the temples have been rebuilt +before the old material was so rotted as to make them hopeless. Wood is +a magnificent material when it is used in such massive structures as it +is here. The biggest bell in the world, twelve feet high, is hung on a +great tree trunk in a belfry with a curled-up roof of flower-like +proportions, first having been hauled to the top of the high hill. We +shall hear it boom next Saturday. We heard the one in Nara, the deepest +thing I ever thought to hear, nine feet high. They are beautiful bronze +and they are very mellow and melodious and reach to the center of +whatever the center of your being may be and leave you to hope the +greater unknown of the judgment day may be a call like that sound. + +We had lunch with Miss D----. She tells stories about the efforts of the +Japanese girls to get an education that make you want to sell your +earrings, even if you have none, in order to give the money to these +idealists. They are as much pioneers as our forebears who chopped down +the trees, but they can't get at a tree to chop. She says she wants me +to go back to America and to go to every Congregational church there and +tell them they must send money here to give education to the people. + +One day we have the mayor's car to go about in and the next day the +University hires a car for us and we indulge ourselves in all kinds of +doings we do not deserve and sometimes wonder if we shall have to commit +suicide after it ends in order to condone the point of honor. Certainly +these people have a nobility of character which entitles them to race +equality. + +I want to find a nice quiet place to stay and come back and see the +sights at greater length. The paintings on the walls are mostly ruined, +but the kakemonas and the screens and the makemonas, those are wonderful +and I am glad to say that we have got over seeing them as grotesque, and +we feel their beauty. When once you see that the trees in the ground are +real and that they look just as the trees in the pictures have always +looked, then you begin to appreciate both nature and human nature as +depicted. + + + + +KYOTO, April 15. + + +To-day is rainy and we haven't done much. We got here yesterday noon. +The hotel is on the side of a hill with wonderful views, and is pretty +good, though the one at Nara which is run by the Imperial Railway System +is the only first-class one we have seen so far. In the afternoon the +University sent a car and we took an auto ride into the suburbs to a +famous cherry place--it was too late for blossoms, but the river and +hills and woods were beautiful, and we saw the usual large crowd +enjoying life. It is really wonderful the way the people go out, all +classes, and the amount of pleasure they get out of doors and in the tea +houses. I have never been anywhere where every day seemed so much of a +holiday as in Japan--there is still sake in evidence but not so much. + +This month a special geisha dance is given here at a theater connected +with a training school; the dance lasts an hour and is repeated four or +five consecutive hours. We went last night; the dancing is much more +mechanical posturing than the theater dancing, or than the little geisha +dance we saw at Nara, but the color combinations and the way they +handled the scenery were wonderful. There were eight very different +scenes and it didn't take more than a minute to make any change. Once a +curtain was simply drawn down through a trap door, another time what had +looked like a canvas mat in front of the curtain was pulled up and it +turned out to be painted on one side. But they had a different method +every time. + +The mayor has invited me to speak to the teachers Saturday afternoon, +and afterwards we are invited by the municipality to a Japanese dinner. +They are also putting the city auto--the only one apparently--at our +disposal, when they aren't using it, and have arranged to take us to a +porcelain and a weaving factory next Monday. This town is the +headquarters of Japan for artistic production, ancient and modern. The +University authorities also telephoned to Tokyo and got permission for +us to visit the palaces here, but they are said not to be equal to the +Nagoya ones which we missed. While at Nara we spent most of our time at +the Horiuji temples, some miles out. I won't do the encyclopedia act +except to say that they are the headquarters of the introduction of +Buddhism into Japan thirteen hundred years ago, which meant +civilization, especially art, and have the wall frescoes, unfortunately +faint, of that period, and lots of sculpture; this means wood carving, +as of course there is no marble here. Well, it happened that it was the +birthday of Prince Shotoku, who was the gentleman responsible for the +aforesaid introduction, and of whom there are many statues, age of two, +twelve and sixteen being favorites; his piety was precocious. +Consequently, everything was wide open. Every kind of peep show and +stall, and more than the usual hundreds of pilgrims who combine pleasure +with piety in a way that beats even the Italian peasants; when they have +money here they spend it; tightwadism is not a Japanese vice. Well, we +were taken into the garden of the chief priest to eat our luncheon; of +course, he was very busy, but greeted us in gorgeous robes and then sent +out tea and rice cakes. The contrast between this lovely little garden +and the drums and barkers just beyond the walls and the wonderful old +artistic shrines beyond the barkers and ham and egg row was as +interesting as anything in Japan. + +You may remember Miss E---- is rather tall for an American woman, even. +Mamma is something of an object to the country people, but Miss E---- is +a spectacle. Curiosity is the only emotion the Japanese are not taught +to conceal apparently. They gather around in scores, literally. I don't +know how many times I have seen parents make sure the children didn't +miss the show. Several times I have seen people walk slowly and solemnly +all the way around us to make sure they missed nothing. No rudeness +ever, just plain curiosity. As we were going to the museum after +breakfast, a few of those children, girls, appeared and bowed. First I +knew one of them had hold of each of my hands, and went with us as far +as the museum--girls of nine or ten. It was touching to see their +friendliness, especially one evidently rather poor, who would look up at +me and laugh, and then squeeze my hand and press it against herself, and +then laugh with delight again. I haven't been able to discover when it +ceases to be proper for children to be natural. Sunday morning some +soldiers were going off to Manchuria--or Korea--and before eight we +heard the patter of the clogs down the street and some hundred of boys +and girls were marching down to the station with their teachers; the +same thing next morning, for the soldiers. + + + + +KYOTO, April 19. + + +We have just come from another Geisha party, given by the mayor and +about fifteen of the other officers of the city. Papa is quite stuck up +because they say it is the first time the city of Kyoto ever entertained +a scholar in that fashion. But if he is stuck up what should I be when a +woman appears for the first time in history at a men's carouse in Japan? +The Geisha girls are all the way from eleven years old to something like +fifty. One of the older ones is the best dancer in the city, and she +gave us one of the wonderful pantomime dances that so fascinate one +here. She has been in jail for her political activities, said activities +consisting in the active distribution of funds in order to elect someone +she favored. It is against the law for a woman to take any part in +politics here. Like all the older women of that class that I have seen +she has a sad look when her face is at rest. But they all talk and +entertain so busily that the sadness is not seen by the men. They are a +very cultivated lot of women so far as we have seen them; of course we +see only the best. They talk with the composure of a duchess and the +good nature of a child. It is a rare combination. They are very curious +about us and ask all sorts of questions. One girl of seventeen said she +loved babies and how many did I have? When I told her five she was +delighted. She had a rosebud mouth just like the old prints and danced +with the old print postures. The girls pass the drinks and the rice +which always comes at the end of such feasts. The little eleven-year-old +gave a dance called "Climbing Fuji." Wonderful flat-footed movements +that make you feel exactly as if you were climbing with her. In the +middle part she puts on a mask which is puffy in the cheeks, and then +she wipes the perspiration and washes her little face and fans herself +and goes on again, flatfooted. All the motions are most elegant and +graceful and subtle and serpentine, never an abrupt or sudden gesture, +and never quite literal in any sense. After the dance was finished she +came and sat by me and her skin was hot as if she had a fever. All the +men were older and I must say they treated her very nicely. + +This is the way those feasts go. We enter the restaurant in stocking +feet, and are usually shown to a small room where we kneel on the +cushions and take tea while waiting for all the guests to assemble. +About six this time, we were shown to the large room, which is always +surrounded by gold screens and shoji, which slide back before the +windows. Cushions are placed about three feet apart on three sides of +the long and beautifully shaped room. In the middle of one side they are +piled up so the foreign guests of honor may sit instead of kneeling +Japanese fashion. We place ourselves after having all the guests one +after another brought up. We shake hands because their bows are rather +impossible and they have adapted themselves to our way. Then we all +squat again. Then the pretty waitresses come slithering across the +floor, each with a tiny table in her hands. The first is for Papa, the +second for me, then the mayor, and so on. The mayor is down at the end +of the line. After each one has his table before him the mayor comes to +the center of the hollow square and makes a little speech of welcome. He +always tells you how sorry he is he has such a poor entertainment and +that he could not do better for these distinguished guests who do him so +much honor by coming, and how this is the first time the city has ever +honored a foreign scholar by this kind of entertainment. Then Papa does +his best to make a reply, and after he sits down we lift the cover of a +lovely lacquer soup bowl and lift the chop sticks. You take a drink of +soup, lift a thin slippery slice of raw fish from its little dish, dip +it in the sauce and put it in your mouth. To-night this first soup is a +rich and rare green turtle, delicious. So you drink it all and take a +little fish, but our guide warns us not to take too much raw fish as we +are not accustomed it. By this time another tray of pretty lacquer is +put beside you on the floor and on it is a tiny tray or platter of +lacquer on which are placed two little fish browned to perfection, and +trimmed with two little cakes of egg and powdered fish, very nicely +rolled in cherry leaves. Every dish is a work of art in its arrangement. +These two fish are the favorite of the last emperor, and you do not +blame him. They are cooked in mirin, a kind of sweet liquor made from +sake, and you eat all you can pick off the bones with your hashi. As +soon as this tray is in place you see a lovely little girl with her +long, bright-colored kimona on the floor around her, and she has in her +hand a blue and white china bottle placed in a tiny lacquer coaster, and +you know the feast is really under way. She is followed by the older +girls, and little by little one at a time and quite gradually the +dancing girls come in and bow to the floor while they pour out the +sake. They laugh at the ways of the foreigners who always forget it is +the part of the guest to hold out his tiny cup for the poison. Everybody +drinks to the health of everybody else and there stops my sake, but the +Japanese drink on and on, one cup at a sip and the hand reaching out for +more. Talk gets livelier, the girls take more part in it. They are said +by some to be the only interesting women in Japan. At any rate, no wives +are ever there but me, and the girls are beautifully cultured, moving at +the slightest suggestion of voice or gesture and always seeing quickly +and very pleasantly what each one wants. As soon as they see we do not +drink sake they bring many bottles of mineral water for us. Then they +do their beautiful dances. Two, about seventeen years old, did one +called "Twilight on the east hill of Kyoto." In Nagoya, in Tokyo, or +wherever you are, the theme is always some natural event connected with +the nature near by. Always simple and classic. Then the famous old +dancer did a subtle thing called "The nurse putting the child to sleep." +That is another favorite theme. This was lovely, but sometimes too +subtle for us to grasp all the movements. These girls all dress in dark +colors like the ladies, only with the difference prescribed by the +profession, such as the low neck in the back and the full length of the +kimona on the floor like a wave around her. With the young ones the obi +is different, being tied to drop down on the floor in a long bow. The +young ones also have the bright hair ornaments and the very long +sleeves. But so do other young girls wear the long sleeves for company +dress. + +There are other courses of fish; one of four strawberries, two slices of +orange, some mint jelly cut in cubes, and sweetened bamboo slices in the +middle of the list. Then more fish courses, many of them bright-colored +shell fish which are always rather tough. Then a very nice mixture of +sour cucumber salad and little pieces of lobster or crab, very nice and +any sour thing is good with these many courses of fish. At the end bowls +of rice, which is brought in in a big lacquer dish with a cover looking +some like a small barrel. This is put into bowls by one of the older +dancers and handed about by the younger ones who get up and down from +their kneeling posture by just lifting themselves as if they had no +weight, on their toes. Many of the Japanese take the regulation three +bowls full of rice, and eat it very fast. I must say their rice is +delicious, but I cannot get away with more than one bowl, partly because +I cannot gobble. Then, for the last, your bowl is filled with tea. + +All this time the gentlemen from the other parts of the room are +kneeling one at a time before you asking you if you like the cherry +dance and what your first impressions of Japan were, and all such talk, +and you have become intimate friends with the dancers as well, maybe +with no common language except "thank you" and "very nice" and +"good-bye," and constant smiles and interpretations now and then from +others who know a very little English. One thing no one expects is for a +foreigner to know a word of Japanese. Therefore, when you pop out an +awkward word or two, you are applauded by laughter and compliments on +your good pronunciation. To-night we had the very tiniest of green +peppers cooked as a vegetable with one of the dishes. That was good as +it had flavor; three of them about as big as a hairpin were served in +the dish. You always get tiny portions and are usually warned not to eat +too much at the first part of the meal. In the tea-dinner the rice comes +along at the beginning so it can be eaten with the fish, and that is an +agreeable variety though you are told not to eat too much of it as there +are other courses to follow. I forgot to say there is always a course in +the middle which is a hot custard made with broth instead of milk and +seasoned with vegetables. That is good, too. In fact, I have become +quite fond of this fish food. + +When we got in the motor car at the gate of the restaurant, all the gay +little dancers were standing there in the rain waving their hands in +American fashion till we went out of sight. Then I suppose the tired +little things went back and danced for more men. We were home at 8:30. +All the dinners seem to be early here in Japan, except what are called +the foreign ones and they follow our hours as well as our style. + +I must tell you the best tea in Japan grows here at a place nearby +called Uji. We had that tea after a lecture in the city hall. It is +strong to the danger point, and has a flavor unlike anything else. An +acid like lemon and no bitter at all; leaves a smooth pleasant taste +something like dry sherry, and is generally delicious. It costs at least +ten yen a pound here, but I shall get some to take home. Very good +ordinary tea here costs fifteen sen a pound, seven and a half cents. + + + + +KYOTO, April 22. + + +To-day we were taken visiting schools--first a Boys' High school, then +an elementary school which had an American flag along with the Japanese +over the door in our honor, and which was awfully nice. The children did +lots of cunning stunts for us, one little kid beating the Japanese drum +for their rhythmic marching, which they are good at. Then a textile +school for textile design, weaving and dyeing, which for some +unexplained reason was bad and poorly attended. The machines were old, +German and out of date. In fact, it all looked as if it had been worked +off on them second hand by some Germans who didn't want them ever to +amount to anything. All of the best work here is still done by hand, +although they have good electric power developed from the water they +have. Then we went to a Girls' High School, combined with a college for +girls, preparing teachers for the regular high schools. The elite of +Kyoto go there, and it, like the other schools, was very nice and good. +They specialize in domestic science and we ate a fine Japanese lunch +they had prepared. All this, like most our other trips, in the mayor's +car. + +This is really a country where the scholar is looked up to and not down +upon. In virtue of having lectured at the Imperial University I am "Your +Excellency" officially. Osaka city does not wish to be outdone by Kyoto, +so I am to lecture to the teachers there, and the city is to provide for +us at the hotel, and the mayor to give us a banquet there. Of course, +Mamma is the only woman present, as it would not occur to them to invite +their own wives. Foreign women are expected, however, to do strange +things, and they are very polite to them. The geisha women seem to be +about the only ones who have an all-around education--not of the book +type, but in the sense of knowing about things and being able and +willing to talk--and I think the men go to these banquets and talk to +them because they are tired of their too obeyful wives and their +overdocility. One woman at the banquet we went to was known as the +Singing Butterfly, and has the name Constitution as a nickname, because +of her supposed interest in politics, especially on the liberal side. +When we heard that she had been in prison because of her interest in +politics, we sat up and took notice, but it turned out that it was for +bribing voters to vote for a man she was interested in. But she is a +local celebrity all right, and her stay in prison had evidently added to +her interest and prestige. + + + + +April 28, on the _Kumano Maru_. + +En Route to China. + + +The lecture yesterday was a success, going off rather better than the +others. It was in a school hall and they are always beautiful rooms. I +was entertained during its two hours of duration by watching a splendid +pink azalea and a pine on either side of the desk. They are each about +five feet high and of the most lovely shape, and there were about a +thousand blossoms on this azalea. We know but very little about dwarfed +trees and shrubs in our country as the specimens we see are very small +ones and inferior in shape and interest to those we see here. They are +everywhere, each little shop has in the midst of its mess of second hand +or cheap new things a charming little peach or plum, pine, azalea, or +redberry. In a hot house we saw a tree that had two plums on it, and we +frequently see tiny orange trees covered with fruit. The white peach is +one of the loveliest things in the world, double blossoms like roses, +and is entirely artificially produced. + +The smoke has lifted and we are seeing the hills of the shore very well. +On the other side of the ship we see the Island of Awaji, so we are now +between the two islands and it is much like the Thousand Islands in the +St. Lawrence River. I suppose this is the entrance to the Inland Sea. It +is partly clear and the land is so close it is easy to see. There are +many Japanese ladies on board with their husbands and they seem to enjoy +it. With their faces white with rice powder and their purple color in +their haoris they are pretty, and especially here where they do not feel +the necessity of covering the obi with haori so they look less +humpbacked than in fashionable Tokyo. Their footwear I love, only, of +course, it holds them still more to the conventional position as it +leaves the legs bare above the ankle, and they must walk so as not to +show that as well as not to disturb the lap of the kimona down the +front. But the tabi feel like bare feet on account of the division of +the big toe from the other toes, and as soon as you put them on you feel +as if the toes were really made to use, and the foot clings as you walk. +I am taking a set of cotton kimonas to China so as to have them to wear +in my room with the tabi on hot days. Without the obi the dress becomes +quite cool if made of thin material. The thin silk, which is practically +transparent, is one of the most beautiful things in Japanese weaving, as +it is still firm enough to keep its shape and wear for years. + +The dress of the geisha is very like the ceremonial dress of the lady, +especially when black with decorations at the bottom. The little girls +are very touching, many of them are not over eight or nine, and they +wear the elaborate dress and coiffure which is theirs for the part. In +cherry season it is bright peacock blue. In Osaka the decorations were +butterflies in colors and gold. The samisen players are older and they +dress more plainly in black or plain blue, the drum players are young +and gay colored. The teeth of the little girls are so bad that I asked +if they blackened them. The dances are lovely poetical things with +themes of the most delicate subjects. There is never anything coarse +either in the thought or the execution. They say the geisha is the most +unselfish person in the world. Perhaps that might be said for all the +women. They do their hard work and keep themselves out of sight to a +degree that shows the pain there must be in it. When I was asked what I +thought of them I answered that I thought Japanese women were not +appreciated for what they did. They said, "No, that is not so, we do not +show it but we appreciate them in our hearts." + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 1. + + +We have slept one night in China, but we haven't any first impressions, +because China hasn't revealed itself to our eyes as yet. We compared +Shanghai to Detroit, Michigan, and except that there is less coal smoke, +the description hits it off. This is said to be literally an +international city, but I haven't learned yet just what the technique +is; every country seems to have its own post office though, and its own +front-door yard, and when we were given a little auto ride yesterday, we +found that the car couldn't go into Chinatown because it had no license +for that district. + +I shall be interested to find out whether in this really old country +they talk about "ages eternal" as freely as they do in Japan; the +authentic history of the latter begins about 500 A.D., their mythical +history 500 B.C., but still it is a country which has endured during +myriads of ages. In spite of the fact that they kept the emperors shut +up for a thousand years, and killed them off and changed them about with +great ease and complacency, the children are all taught, and they repeat +in books for foreigners, that the rule of Japan has been absolutely +unbroken. Of course, they get to believing these things themselves, not +exactly intellectually but emotionally and practically, and it would be +worth any teacher's position for him to question any of their patriotic +legends in print. However, they say that in their oral lectures, the +professors of history of the universities criticise these legends. In +the higher elementary school we visited in Osaka, we saw five classes in +history and ethics, in each of which the Emperor was under +discussion--sometimes _the_ Emperor and what he had done for the +country, and sometimes _an_ Emperor in particular. Apparently this +religion has been somewhat of a necessity, as the country was so divided +and split up, they had practically nothing else to unite on--the Emperor +became a kind of symbol of united and modern Japan. But this worship is +going to be an Old Man of the Sea on their backs. They say the +elementary school teachers are about the most fanatical patriots of the +country. More than one has been burned or allowed the children to be +burned while he rescued the portrait of the Emperor when there was a +fire. They must take it out in patriotism in lieu of salary; they don't +get a living wage, now that the cost of living has gone up. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 2. + + +We have been taken in hand by a reception committee of several Chinese +gentlemen, mostly returned American students. The "returned student" is +a definite category here, and if and when China gets on its feet, the +American university will have a fair share of the glory to its credit. +They took us to see a Chinese cotton spinning and weaving factory. There +is not even the pretense at labor laws here that there is in Japan. +Children six years of age are employed, not many though, and the wages +of the operatives in the spinning department, mainly women, is thirty +cents a day, at the highest thirty-two cents Mex. In the weaving +department they have piece work and get up to forty cents. + +I will tell you something of what we had to eat in one small afternoon. +First, lunch of all courses here at the hotel. Then we went to the +newspaper where we had tea and cake at about four. From there to the +house of the daughter of a leading statesman of the Manchus, she being a +lady of small feet and ten children, who has offered a prize for the +best essay on the ways to stop concubinage, which they call the whole +system of plural marriage. They say it is quite unchanged among the +rich. There we were given a tea of a rare sort, unknown in our +experience. Two kinds of meat pies which are made in the form of little +cakes and quite peculiar in taste, delicious; also cake. Then after we +went to the restaurant where we were to have dinner. First we got into +the wrong hotel and there, while we were waiting, they gave us tea. We +were struck by the fact that they asked for nothing when we left, and +thanked us for coming to the wrong place. Then we went to the right +hotel across the street from the first. They called it the corner of +Broadway and 42nd Street, and it is that. There is a big roof garden +besides the hotels, and they are both run by the Department stores which +have their places underneath. It may be a sad commentary on the human +character that one can eat more than one can remember, but that is what +we did last night. First of all we went into the room which was all +Chinese furniture; very small round table in the middle and the rows of +stools along one side for the singing girls, who do not dance here. +Those stools were not used, as all the young Chinese are ashamed of that +institution and want to get rid of it. On a side table were almonds +shelled, nice little ones, different from ours and very sweet. Beside +them were dried watermelon seeds which were hard to crack and so I did +not taste them. All the Chinese nibbled them with relish. Two ladies +came, both of them had been in New York to study. All these people speak +and understand English in earnest. On the table were little pieces of +sliced ham, the famous preserved eggs which taste like hard-boiled eggs +and look like dark-colored jelly, and little dishes of sweets, shrimps, +etc. To these we helped ourselves with the chop sticks, though they +insisted on giving us little plates on which they spooned out some of +each. Then followed such a feast as we had never experienced, the boys +taking off one dish after another and replacing them with others in the +center of the table, to which we helped ourselves. There was no special +attempt at display of fine dishes such as you might have expected with +such cooking and such expense, and such as would have happened in Japan. +We had chicken and duck and pigeon and veal and pigeon eggs and soup and +fish and little oysters that grow in the ground (very delicious and +delicate) and nice little vegetables and bamboo sprouts mixed in with +the others, and we had shrimps cooked, and shark's fin and bird's nest +(this has no taste at all and is a sort of very delicate soup, but costs +a fortune and that is its real reason for being). It is gelatine which +almost all dissolves in the cooking. We had many more things than these, +and the boy in a dirty white coat and an old cap on his head passing +round the hot perfumed wet towels every few courses, and for dessert we +had little cakes made of bean paste filled up with almond paste and +other sweets, all very elaborately made, and works of art to look at, +but with too little taste to appeal much to us; then we had fruits, +bananas and apples and pears, cut up in pieces, each with a toothpick in +it so it can be eaten easily. Then we had a soup made of fish's stomach, +or air sac. Then we had a pudding of the most delicious sort imaginable, +made of a mold of rice filled in with eight different symbolic things +that I don't know anything about, but they don't cut much part in the +taste. In serving this dish we were first given a little bowl half full +of a sauce thickened and looking like a milk sauce. It was really made +of powdered almonds. Into this you put the pudding, and it is so good +that I regretted all that had gone before, and I am going to learn how +to make it. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 3. + + +Some one told us when we were on the boat that the Japanese cared +everything for what people thought of them, and the Chinese cared +nothing. Making comparisons is a favorite, if dangerous, indoor sport. +The Chinese are noisy, not to say boisterous, easy-going and dirty--and +quite human in general effect. They are much bigger than the Japanese, +and frequently very handsome from any point of view. The most surprising +thing is the number of those who look not merely intelligent but +intellectual among the laborers, such as some of the hotel waiters and +attendants. Our waiter is a rather feminine, ultra refined type, and +might be a poet. I noticed quite a number of the same Latin quarter +Paris type of artists among the teachers whom I addressed to-day. The +Japanese impressions are gradually sinking into perspective with +distance, and it is easy to see that the same qualities that make them +admirable are also the ones that irritate you. That they should have +made what they have out of that little and mountainous island is one of +the wonders of the world, but everything in themselves is a little +overmade, there seems to be a rule for everything, and admiring their +artistic effects one also sees how near art and the artificial are +together. So it is something of a relaxation to get among the easy-going +once more. Their slouchiness, however, will in the end get on one's +nerves quite as much as the "eternal" attention of the Japanese. One +more generalization borrowed from one of our Chinese friends here, and +I'm done. "The East economizes space and the West time"--that also is +much truer than most epigrams. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 4. + + +I have seen a Chinese lady, small feet and all. We took dinner with her. +She did not come into the room until after dinner was over, having been +in the kitchen cooking it while the servant brought things in. She has +one of those placid faces which are round and plump and quite beautiful +in a way, a pretty complexion, and of course a slow, rocking, hobbling +way of walking. Yesterday after the lecture we went there again and she +showed us all over her flat. It is well kept, with not many conveniences +from our point of view, but I think it is regarded as quite modern here. +It has a staircase, and a little roof where they dry clothes or sit. The +bath is a tin tub, warmed by carrying water from the little stove like +our little laundry stoves. It has an outlet pipe to the ground, no +sewers as usual in the Orient. The kitchen has a little stove of iron +set up on boxes and they burn small pieces of wood. It has three +compartments, two big shallow iron pots for roasting and boiling and a +deep one in the middle for keeping the hot water for tea. Only two fires +are needed as the heat from the two end fires does for the water in the +middle. + +There is no doubt that the Chinese are a sociable people if given a +chance. Of course, men like the husband of our hostess are the extreme +of ability and advanced ideas here. But it is remarkable that he shows +us things as they are. When we visited schools he did not arrange in +advance because he did not want us to see a fixed up program. When we +went out to lunch he took us to a Chinese place where no foreigners ever +go. + +Yesterday we went to a department store to buy some gloves and garters. +Gloves were Keyser's, imported, so were the stockings, so were the +garters and suspenders, etc. The gloves were from $1 to $1.60 and the +suspenders were a dollar. I bought some silk, sixteen inches wide, for +fifty cents a yard. The store was messy and the floors dirty, but it is +a popular place for the Chinese. We paid three dollars for a book marked +1sh. 6p. in England, and everything here is like that. Gloves and +stockings are made in Japan, and good and cheap there; fine silken +stockings $1.60 a pair. But still the Chinese do not buy of them, but +from America. We have visited a cotton mill. The Chinese cotton and silk +are now inferior, owing to lack of scientific production and of proper +care of seed. In weaving, they sometimes mix their cotton with ours. + + + + +SHANGHAI, Monday, May 12. + + +The Peking tempest seems to have subsided for the present, the +Chancellor still holding the fort, and the students being released. The +subsidized press said this was due in part to the request of the +Japanese that the school-boy pranks be looked upon indulgently. +According to the papers, the Japanese boycott is spreading, but the ones +we see doubt if the people will hold out long enough--meanwhile Japanese +money is refused here. + +The East is an example of what masculine civilization can be and do. The +trouble I should say is that the discussions have been confined to the +subjection of the women as if that were a thing affecting the women +only. It is my conviction that not merely the domestic and educational +backwardness of China, but the increasing physical degeneration and the +universal political corruption and lack of public spirit, which make +China such an easy mark, is the result of the condition of women. There +is the same corruption in Japan only it is organized; there seems to be +an alliance between two groups of big capitalists and the two leading +political "parties." There the very great public spirit is nationalistic +rather than social, that is, it is patriotism rather than public spirit +as we understand it. So while Japan is strong where China is weak, there +are corresponding defects there because of the submission of women--and +the time will come when the hidden weakness will break Japan down. Here +are two items from the Chinese side. A missionary spoke to Christian +Chinese about spending the time Sunday, making chiefly the point that it +was a good time for family reunions and family readings, conversation +and the like. One of them said that they would be bored to death if they +had to spend the whole day with their wives. Then we are told that the +rich women--who have of course much less liberty in getting out than the +poorer class women--spend their time among themselves gambling. It is +universally believed that the attempt to support a number of wives +extravagantly is one of the chief sources of political corruption. On +the other hand, at one of the political protest meetings in Peking a +committee of twelve was appointed to go to the officials and four of +them were women. In Japan women are forbidden to attend any meetings +where politics are discussed, and the law is strictly enforced. There +are many more Chinese women studying in America than there are +Japanese--in part, perhaps, because of the lack of higher schools for +girls here, but also because they don't have to give up marriage here +when they get an education--in fact we are told they are in especial +demand not only among the men who have studied abroad, but among the +millionaires. Certainly the educated ones here are much more advanced on +the woman question than in Japan. + +"You never can tell" is the coat of arms of China. The Chancellor of the +University was forced out on the evening of the eighth by the cabinet, +practically under threat of assassination; also soldiers (bandits) were +brought into the city and the University surrounded, so to save the +University rather than himself, he left--nobody knows where. The release +of the students was sent out by telegraph, but they refused to allow +this to become known. It seems this Chancellor was more the intellectual +leader of the liberals than I had realized, and the government had +become really afraid of him. He has only been there two years, and +before that the students had never demonstrated politically and now they +are the leaders of the new movement. So of course the government will +put in a reactionary, and the students will leave and all the honest +teachers resign. Perhaps the students will go on strike all over China. +But you never can tell. + + + + +Tuesday A.M. + + +Ex-President Sun Yat Sen is a philosopher, as I found out last night +during dinner with him. He has written a book, to be published soon, +saying that the weakness of the Chinese is due to their acceptance of +the statement of an old philosopher, "To know is easy, to act is +difficult." Consequently they did not like to act and thought it was +possible to get a complete theoretical understanding, while the strength +of the Japanese was that they acted even in ignorance and went ahead and +learned by their mistakes; the Chinese were paralyzed by fear of making +a mistake in action. So he has written a book to prove to his people +that action is really easier than knowledge. + +The American sentiment here hopes that the Senate will reject the treaty +because it virtually completes the turning over of China to Japan. I +will only mention two things said in the conversation. Japan already has +more troops, namely twenty-three divisions, under arms in China than she +has in Japan, Japanese officered Chinese, and her possession of +Manchurian China is already complete. They have lent China two hundred +millions to be used in developing this army and extending it. They +offered China, according to the conversation at dinner, to lend her two +million a month for twenty years for military purposes. Japan figured +the war would last till '21 or '22, and had proposed an offensive and +defensive alliance to Germany, Japan to supply its trained Chinese army, +and Germany to turn over to Japan the Allies' concessions and colonies +in China. As an evidence of good faith, Germany had already offered to +Japan its own Chinese territory, and it was the communication of this +fact to Great Britain which induced the latter to sign the secret pact +agreeing to turn over German possessions to Japan, when the peace was +made. These men are not jingoists; they think they know what they are +talking about, and they have good sources of knowledge. Some of these +statements are known facts--like the size of the army and the two +hundred million loan--but of course I can't guarantee them. But I'm +coming to the opinion that it might be well worth while to reject the +treaty on the ground that it involved the recognition of secret treaties +and secret diplomacy. On the other hand, a genuine League of +Nations--one with some vigor--is the only salvation I can see of the +whole Eastern situation, and it is infinitely more serious than we +realize at home. If things drift on five or ten years more, the world +will have a China under Japanese military domination--barring two +things--Japan will collapse in the meantime under the strain, or Asia +will be completely Bolshevikized, which I think is about fifty-fifty +with a Japanized-Militarized China. European diplomacy here, which of +course dominates America, is completely futile. England does everything +with reference to India, and they all temporize and drift and take what +are called optimistic long-run views and quarrel among themselves, and +Japan alone knows what it wants and comes after it. + +I still believe in the genuineness of the Japanese liberal movement +there, but they lack moral courage. They, the intellectual liberals, are +almost as ignorant of the true facts as we are, and enough aware of them +to wish to keep themselves in ignorance. Then there is the great +patriotism, which of course easily justifies, by the predatory example +of the Europeans, the idea that this is all in self-defense. + + + + +SHANGHAI, May 13. + + +I closed up abruptly because there seemed a possibility of mail going +out and now it is a day after and more to tell, with a prospect of +little time to tell it. China is full of unused resources and there are +too many people. The factories begin to work at six or earlier in the +morning, with not enough for the poor to do, and they have the habit of +not wanting to work much. Two shifts work in factories for the +twenty-four hours. They get about twenty to thirty cents a day and the +little children get from nothing up to nine cents, or even eleven cents +after they get older. Iron mines are idle, coal and oil undeveloped, and +they cannot get railroads. They burn their wood everywhere and the +country is withering away because it is deforested. They made the +porcelain industry for the world and they buy their table dishes from +Japan. They raise a deteriorated cotton and buy cotton cloth from Japan. +They buy any quantity of small useful articles from Japan. Japanese are +in every town across China like a network closing in on fishes. + +All the mineral resources of China are the prey of the Japanese, and +they have secured 80 per cent of them by bribery of the Peking +government. Talk to a Chinese and he will tell you that China cannot +develop because she has no transportation facilities. Talk to him about +building railroads and he tells you China ought to have railroads but +she cannot build them because she cannot get the material. Talk to him +about fuel when you see all the weeds being gathered from the roadsides +for burning in the cook stoves, and he tells you China cannot use her +mines because of the government's interference. There are large coal +mines within ten miles of this city with the coal lying near the surface +and only the Japanese are using them, though they are right on the bank +of the Yangste River. The iron mines referred to are near the river, a +whole mountain of iron being worked by the Japanese, who bring the ocean +ships up the river, load them directly from the mines, the ore being +carried down the hill, and take these ships directly to Japan, and they +pay four dollars a ton to the Chinese company which carries on all the +work. + +The last hope of China for an effective government passed away with the +closing of the Peace Conference, which has been working hard here for +weeks. It seems the delegates from the south could act with plenary +power. The delegates from the north had to refer everything to the +military ministers from Peking, and so at last they gave up. Despair is +deeper than ever, and they all say that nothing can be done. We have +gone round recommending many ways of getting at the wrong impressions +that prevail in our country about them, such as propaganda, an +insistence upon the explanation of the differences between the people +and the government. But the reply is, "We can do nothing, we have no +money." Certainly the Chinese pride has been grounded now. An American +official here says there is no hope for China except through the +protection of the great powers, in which Japan must join. Without that +she is the prey of Japan. Japanese are buying best bits of land in this +city for business, and in other cities. Japan borrows money from other +nations and then loans it to China on bleeding terms. The cession of +Shantung has, of course, precipitated the whole mess and some Chinese +think that is their last hope to so reduce them to the last extremity +that rage will bring them to act. The boycott of Japanese goods and +money has begun, but many say it will not be persistently carried out. +The need for food and clothes in China keeps everybody bound by the +struggle for a livelihood, and everything else has to be forgotten in +the long run. + +The protests of the Faculty on behalf of the students seem to have been +received by the government in good part. Students here are in trouble +also to some extent and there is a probability of a strike of students +in all the colleges and middle schools of the country. The story at St. +John's here is very interesting. It is the Episcopalian mission school, +and one of the best. Students walked to Shanghai, ten miles, on the +hottest day to parade, then ten miles back. Some of them fell by the way +with sunstroke. On their return in the evening they found some of the +younger students going in to a concert. The day was a holiday, called +the Day of Humiliation. It is the anniversary of the date of the +twenty-one demands of Japan, and is observed by all the schools. It is a +day of general meetings and speechmaking for China. These students stood +outside of the door where the concert was to be held and their principal +came out and told them they must go to the concert. They replied that +they were praying there, as it was not a time for celebrating by a +concert on the Day of Humiliation. Then they were ordered to go in first +by this principal and afterwards by the President of the whole college. +Considerable excitement was the result. Students said they were watching +there for the sake of China as the apostles prayed at the death of +Christ and this anniversary was like the anniversary of the death of +Christ. The President told them if they did not go in then he would shut +them out of the college. This he did. They stood there till morning and +then one of them who lived nearby took them into his house. Therefore +St. John's College is closed and the President has not given in. + +I fancy the Chinese would be almost ready to treat the Japanese as they +did the treacherous minister if it were not for the reaction it would +have on the world at large. They do hate them and the Americans we have +met all seem to feel with them. Certainly the apparent lie of the +Japanese when they made their splurge in promising before the sitting of +the Peace Conference to give back the German concessions to China is +something America ought not to forget. All these, and the extreme +poverty of China is what I had no idea of before coming here. + +A wonderfully solemn and intent old pedlar has made his appearance most +every day, and much the same ceremonies are gone through. For instance, +there was a bead necklace--the light hollowed silver enamel--he wanted +fourteen dollars for; he seemed rather glad finally to sell it for four, +though you can't say he seemed glad; on the contrary, he seemed +preternaturally gloomy and remarked that he and not we would eat +bitterness because of this purchase. The funniest thing was once when, +after getting sick of bargaining, we put the whole thing down and +started to walk away. His movements and gestures would have made an +actor celebrated--they are indescribable, but they said in effect, +"Rather than have any misunderstanding come between me and my close +personal friends I would give you free anything in my possession." The +blood rushed to his face and a smile of heavenly benignity came over it +as he handed us the things at the price we had offered him. + +The students' committees met yesterday and voted to inform the +government by telegraph that they would strike next Monday if their four +famous demands were not granted--or else five--including of course +refusal to sign the peace treaty, punishment of traitors who made the +secret treaties with Japan because they were bribed, etc. But the +committee seemed to me more conservative than the students, for the +rumor this A.M. is that they are going to strike to-day anyway. They are +especially angered because the police have forbidden them to hold +open-air meetings--that's now the subject of one of their demands--and +because the provincial legislature, after promising to help on +education, raised their own salaries and took the money to do it with +out of the small educational fund. In another district the students +rioted and rough-housed the legislative hall when this happened. Here +there was a protest committee, but the students are mad and want action. +Some of the teachers, so far as I can judge, quite sympathize with the +boys, not only in their ends but in their methods; some think it their +moral duty to urge deliberate action and try to make the students as +organized and systematic as possible, and some take the good old Chinese +ground that there is no certainty that any good will come of it. To the +outsider it looks as if the babes and sucklings who have no experience +and no precedents would have to save China--if. And it's an awful if. +It's not surprising that the Japanese with their energy and positiveness +feel that they are predestined to govern China. + +I didn't ever expect to be a jingo, but either the United States ought +to wash its hands entirely of the Eastern question, and say "it's none +of our business, fix it up yourself any way you like," or else it ought +to be as positive and aggressive in calling Japan to account for every +aggressive move she makes, as Japan is in doing them. It is sickening +that we allow Japan to keep us on the defensive and the explanatory, and +talk about the open door, when Japan has locked most of the doors in +China already and got the keys in her pocket. I understand and believe +what all Americans say here--the military party that controls Japan's +foreign policy in China regards everything but positive action, prepared +to back itself by force, as fear and weakness, and is only emboldened to +go still further. Met by force, she would back down. I don't mean +military force, but definite positive statements about what she couldn't +do that she knew meant business. At the present time the Japanese are +trying to stir up anti-foreign feeling and make the Chinese believe the +Americans and English are responsible for China not getting Shantung +back, and also talking race discrimination for the same purpose. I don't +know what effect their emissaries are having among the ignorant, but the +merchant class has about got to the point of asking foreign intervention +to straighten things out--first to loosen the clutch of Japan, and then, +or at the same time, for it's the two sides of the same thing, overthrow +the corrupt military clique that now governs China and sells it out. +It's a wonderful job for a League of Nations--if only by any chance +there is a league, which looks most dubious at this distance. + +The question which is asked oftenest by the students is in effect this: +"All of our hopes of permanent peace and internationalism having been +disappointed at Paris, which has shown that might still makes right, and +that the strong nations get what they want at the expense of the weak, +should not China adopt militarism as part of her educational system?" + + + + +NANKING, May 18. + + +There is no doubt we are in China. Hangchow, we are told, was one of the +most prosperous of the strictly Chinese cities, and after seeing this +town we can believe it. It has a big wall around it, said to be 21 miles +and also 33--my guess is the latter; nonetheless there are hundreds of +acres of farm within it. This afternoon we were taken up on the wall; it +varies from 15 to 79 feet in height, according to the lay of the ground, +and from 12 to 30 feet or so wide; hard baked brick, about as large as +three of ours. They always had a smaller walled city inside the big one, +variously called the Imperial and Manchu city. But since the revolution +they are tearing down these inner walls, partly I suppose to show their +contempt for the Manchus, and partly to use the brick. These are sold +for three or four cents apiece and carted all around on the big Chinese +wheelbarrow, by man power, of course. The compound wall of this house is +made of them, and they have several thousand of them stored at the +University grounds. They scrape them off by hand; you can get some idea +of the relative value of material and human beings. I started out to +speak of the view--typical China, deforested hills close by, all +pockmarked at the bottom with graves, like animal burrows and golf +bunkers; peasants' stone houses with thatched roofs, looking like +Ireland or France; orchards of pomegranates with lovely scarlet blossoms +and other fruits; some rice fields already growing, others being set +out, ten or a dozen people at work in one patch; garden patches, largely +melons; in the distance the wall stretching out for miles, a hill with a +pagoda, a lotus lake, and in the far distance the blue mountains--also +the city, not so much of which was visible, however. + +One of the interesting things in moving about is the fact that only once +in a while do I see a face typically Chinese. I forget they are Chinese +a great deal of the time. They just seem like dirty, poor miserable +people anywhere. They are cheerful but not playful. I should like to +give a few millions for playgrounds and toys and play leaders. I can't +but think that a great deal of the lack of initiative and the +let-George-do-it, which is the curse of China, is connected with the +fact that the children are grown up so soon. There are less than a +hundred schools for children in this city of a third of a million, and +the schools only have a few hundred--two or three at most. The children +on the street are always just looking and watching, wise, human looking, +and reasonably cheerful, but old and serious beyond bearing. Of course +many are working at the loom, or when they are younger at reeling. This +is a good deal of a silk place, and we visited one government factory +with several hundred people at work; this one at least makes out to be +self-supporting. There isn't a power reeler or loom in the town, nor yet +a loom of the Jacquard type. Sometimes a boy sits up top and shifts +things, sometimes they have six or eight foot treadles. A lot of the +reeling isn't even foot power--just hand, though their hand reeler is +much more ingenious than the Japanese one. There seem so many places to +take hold and improve things and yet all of these are so tied together, +and change is so hard that it isn't much wonder everybody who stays here +gets more or less Chinafied and takes it out in liking the Chinese +personally for their amiable qualities. + +Just now the students are forming a patriotic league because of the +present political situation, Japanese boycott, etc. But the teachers of +the Nanking University here say that instead of contenting themselves +with the two or three things they might well do, they are laying out an +ambitious scheme covering everything, and their energy will be exhausted +when they get their elaborate constitution formed, or they will meet so +many difficulties that they will get discouraged even with the things +they might do. I don't know whether I told you about the clerk in the +tailor shop in Shanghai; after taking the usual fatalistic attitude that +nothing could be done with the present situation, he said the boycott +was a good thing but "Chinaman he got weak mind; pretty soon he forget." + +In various places there are lots of straw hats hung up painted in +Chinese characters where they have stopped passersby and taken their +hats away because they were Japanese made. It is all good natured and +nobody objects. There are policemen in front of Japanese stores, and +they allow no one to enter; they are "protecting" the Japanese. This is +characteristic of China. The policemen all carry guns with bayonets +attached; they are very numerous and slouch around looking bored to +death. The only other class as bored looking is the dogs, which are even +more numerous, and lie stretched out at full length, never curled up, +and never by any chance doing anything. + +We visited the old examination halls which are now being torn down. +These are the cells, about 25,000 in number, where the candidates for +degrees used to be shut up during the examination period. Said cells are +built in long rows, under a lean-to roof, mostly opening face to face on +an open corridor, which is uncovered. Some of them face against a wall +which is the back of the next row of cells. Cells are two and one-half +feet wide by four long. In them are two ridges along the wall on each +side, one at the height of a seat, the other at the height of a table. +On these they laid two boards, two and a half feet long, and this was +their furniture. They sat and wrote and cooked and ate and slept in +these cells. In case it did not rain, their feet could stick out into +the corridor so they might stretch out on the hard floor. The exams +lasted eight days, divided into three divisions. They went in on the +eighth day of the eighth moon in the evening. They wrote the first +subject until the afternoon of the tenth. Then they left for the night. +On the afternoon of the eleventh they came in for the second subject and +wrote till the afternoon of the thirteenth, when there was another day +off. On the evening of the fourteenth they re-entered the cell for the +third period and that ended on the evening of the sixteenth. They had +free communication with each other in the corridors, which were closed +and locked. No one could approach them from the outside for any reason. +Often they died. But if they could only get put into a corridor with a +friend who knew, the biggest fool in China could get his paper written +for him, and he could pass and become an M. A., or something +corresponding to that degree. Thus were the famous literati of China +produced. Preparation for the exam was not the affair of the government, +and might be acquired in any possible way. The houses of the examiners +are still in good condition and might be made into a school very easily. +But do you think they will do that? Not at all. The government has not +ordered a school there, and so they will be torn down or else used for +some official work. You can have no conception of how far the +officialism goes till you see it. We also visited a Confucian Temple, +big and used twice each year. It is like all temples in that it is +covered with the dust of many years' accumulation. If you were to be +dropped in any Chinese temple you would think you had landed in a +deserted and forgotten ruin out of reach of man. We went to the Temple +of Hell on Sunday, and the gentleman who accompanied us suggested to the +priest that the images ought to be dusted off. "Yes," said the priest, +"it would be better if they were." + + + + +NANKING, Thursday, May 22. + + +The returned students from Japan hate Japan, but they are all at loggers +with the returned students from America, and their separate +organizations cannot get together. Many returned students have no jobs, +apparently because they will not go into business or begin at the bottom +anywhere, and there is strong hostility against them on the part of the +officials. + +As a sample of the way business is done here, we have just had an +express letter from Shanghai which took four days to arrive. It should +arrive in twelve hours. People use express letters rather than the +telegraph because they are quicker. You may spend as much time as you +like or don't like, wondering why your express letter did not reach you +on time; you do it at your own risk and expense. The Chinese do not +juggle with foreigners as the Japanese do, in the conscious sense, they +simply drift, they juggle with themselves and with each other all the +time. + +This house is four miles from the railroad station. There is no street +car here; there are many 'rickshas, a few carriages, still fewer autos. +There are no sedan chairs, at least I don't remember seeing any, but at +Chienkiang, where we went the other day, the streets are so narrow that +chairs are the main means of conveyance. The 'ricksha men here pay forty +cents a day to the city for their vehicles, which are all alike and very +poor ones. They make a little more than that sum for themselves. In +Shanghai they pay ninety cents a day for their right to work, and earn +from one dollar to a possible dollar and a half for themselves. + +I said to a young professor, the other day, that China was still +supporting three idle classes of people. He looked surprised, though a +student and critic of social conditions, and asked me who they were. +When I asked him if that couldn't be said of the officials, the priests, +and the army, he said yes, it could. Thus far and no further, seems to +be their motto, both in thinking and acting, especially in acting. + + + + +NANKING, May 23. + + +I don't believe anybody knows what the political prospects are; this +students' movement has introduced a new and uncalculable factor--and all +in the three weeks we have been here. You heard nothing but gloom about +political China at first, corrupt and traitorous officials, soldiers +only paid banditti, the officers getting the money from Japan to pay +them with, no organizing power or cohesion among the Chinese; and then +the students take things into their hands, and there is animation and a +sudden buzz. There are a hundred students being coached here to go out +and make speeches, they will have a hundred different stations scattered +through the city. It is also said the soldiers are responding to the +patriotic propaganda; a man told us that the soldiers wept when some +students talked to them about the troubles of China, and the soldiers of +Shantung, the province turned over to Japan, have taken the lead in +telegraphing the soldiers in the other provinces to resist the corrupt +traitors. Of course, what they all are afraid of is that this is a flash +in the pan, but they are already planning to make the student movement +permanent and to find something for them to do after this is settled. +Their idea here is to reorganize them for popular propaganda for +education, more schools, teaching adults, social service, etc. + +It is very interesting to compare the men who have been abroad with +those who haven't--I mean students and teachers. Those who haven't are +sort of helpless, practically; the height of literary and academic +minds. Those who have studied abroad, even in Japan, have much more go +to them. Certainly the classicists in education have a noble example +here in China of what their style of education can do if only kept up +long enough. On the other hand, there must be something esthetically +very fine in the old Chinese literature; even many of the modern young +men have a sentimental attachment to it, precisely like that which they +have to the fine writing of their characters. They talk about them with +all the art jargon: "Notice the strength of this down stroke, and the +spirituality of the cross stroke and elegant rhythm of the composition." +When we visited a temple the other day, one of the chief Buddhist +shrines in China, we were presented with a rubbing of the writing of the +man who is said to be the finest writer ever known in China--these +characters were engraved in the rock from his writing some centuries +ago--I don't know how many. It is very easy to see how cultivated people +take refuge in art and spirituality when politics are corrupt and the +general state of social life is discouraging; you see it here, and how +in the end it increases the decadence. + +I think we wrote you from Shanghai that we had been introduced to all +the mysteries of China, ancient eggs, sharks' fins, birds' nests, pigeon +eggs, the eight precious treasures, rice pudding, and so on. We continue +to have Chinese meals; yesterday lunch in the home of an adviser to a +military official. He is very outspoken, doesn't trim in politics, and +gives you a more hopeful feeling about China. The most depressing thing +is hearing it said, "When we get a stable government, we can do so and +so, but there is no use at present." But this man's attitude is rather, +"Damn the government and go ahead and do something." He is very proud of +having a "happy, Christian home" and doesn't cover up his Christianity +as most of the official and wealthy class seem to do. He expects to have +his daughters educated in America, one in medicine and one in home +affairs, and to have help in a campaign for changing the character of +the Chinese home--from these big aggregates of fifty people or so living +together, married children, servants, etc., where he says the waste is +enormous, to say nothing of bickerings and jealousies. In the old type +of well-to-do home, breakfast would begin for someone about seven, and +someone would have cooking done for him to eat till noon; then about +two, visitors would come, and the servants would be ordered to cook +something for each caller--absolutely no organization or planning in +anything, according to him. + + + + +NANKING, Monday, May 26. + + +The trouble among the students is daily getting worse, and even the most +sympathetic among the faculties are getting more and more anxious. The +governor of this province, capital here, is thought most liberal, and he +has promised to support these advanced measures in education. Last +Friday the assembly passed a bill cutting down the educational +appropriation and raising their own salaries. Therefore the students +here are now all stirred up and the faculties are afraid they cannot be +kept in control until they are well enough organized to make a strike +effective. At the same time our friends are kept busy running up to the +assembly and the governor. The latter has promised to veto the bill when +it is sent to him from the senate. But the students are getting anxious +to go to the senate themselves. Our friends say it costs so much for +these men to get elected that they have to get it all back after they +get into office. A missionary says: "Let's go out and shoot them all, +they are just as bad as Peking, and if they had the same chance they +would sell out the whole country to Japan or to anyone else." Certainly +China needs education all along the line, but they never will get it as +long as they try in little bits. So maybe they will have to be pushed to +the very bottom before they will be ready to go the whole hog or none. + +Yesterday a Chinese lady had a tea for me and asked the Taitai, as the +wives of the officials are called, corresponding to the court ladies of +previous times. As a function this was interesting, for every woman +brought her servant and most of her children. Some appeared to have two +servants, one big-footed maid for herself and one bound-footed as a +nurse for the children. Her own servant hands her the cup of tea. All +the children are fed at the same time as the grown-ups, and after their +superiors the servants get something in the kitchen. I don't know yet +what that something is, but probably an inferior tea. The tea we drank +is that famous jasmine tea from Hangchow. It costs something like +fifteen dollars a pound here. It is very good, with a peculiar spicy +flavor, almost musky and smoky, from the jasmine combined with the tea +flavor, which is strong. It is a delicious brown tea, but I do not like +to drink it so well as I like the best green tea. + +Well, I wish you could see the Taitai. The wife of the governor is about +twenty-five, or may be a little more. She is a substantial young person, +with full-grown feet, a pale blue dress of skirt and coat scalloped on +the edges and bound with black satin, her nice hair parted to one side +on the right and pinned above her left ear with a white artificial rose. +Her maid had black coat and trousers. She had some bracelets on, but her +jewels were less beautiful than those of the other women. One very +pretty woman had buttons on her coat of emeralds surrounded with pearls, +and on her arm a lovely bracelet of pearls. After tea, the great ladies +went into an inner room, with the exception of two. One of these two had +a very sad face. I watched her and finally had a chance to ask her how +many children she had. She said she had none, but she would like to have +a daughter. I was told after that her husband was a Christian pastor and +she was trying to be Christian. The other one who stayed was the pretty +one with the emerald buttons. I finally decided the ladies had left us +to play their cards and asked if I might go and see them. They were not +playing cards, but had just gone off to gossip among themselves, +probably about the foreigners. One of the ladies said she would take me +some day to see their card games. It is said they play in the morning +and in the afternoon and all the night till the next morning when they +go to bed. It is commonly said this is all they do, and the losses are +very disastrous sometimes. + +But they were not playing then and came back, some of them with their +children, and sat in the rows of chairs, sixteen of them, and some amahs +around the room, while I talked to them. I told stories about what the +American women did in the war and they stared with amazement. I had to +explain what a gas mask is, but they knew what killing is and what high +class is. Their giggles were quite encouraging to intercourse. A nice +young lady from the college interpreted, and when I stopped I asked them +to tell me something about their lives. So the governor's wife was at +last persuaded to give an account of how she brought up her children. +They are all free from self-consciousness, and though they have little +manners in our sense of the word, they have a self-possession and +gentleness combined which gives a very graceful appearance. The +governor's wife says she has two little boys, the eldest six years of +age. In the morning he has a Chinese tutor. After dinner, she teaches +him music, of which she is very fond. After that he plays till +five-thirty, has supper, plays again a little while before going to bed, +and then bed. At thirteen the boy will be sent away to school. I asked +her what about girls, and she said that her little niece was the first +one in her family to be sent to school, but this ten-year-old one is in +Tientsin at a boarding school. + + + + +PEKING, Sunday, June 1. + + +We met a young man here from an interior province who is trying to get +money for teachers who haven't received their pay for a long time. +Meantime over sixty per cent of the entire national expenses is going to +the military, and the army is worse than useless. In many provinces it +is composed of brigands and everywhere is practically under the control +of the tuchuns or military governors, who are corrupt and use the pay +roll to increase their graft and the army to increase their power of +local oppression, while the head military man is openly pro-Japanese. + +There is a lull in our affairs just now. We agreed yesterday that never +in our lives had we begun to learn as much as in the last four months. +And the last month particularly, there has been almost too much food to +be digestible. Talk about the secretive and wily East. Compared, say, +with Europe, they hand information out to you here on a platter (though +it must be admitted the labels are sometimes mixed) and sandbag you with +it. + +Yesterday we went to the Western Hills where are the things you see in +the pictures, including the stone boat, the base of which is really +marble and as fine as the pictures. But all the rest of it is just +theatrical fake, more or less peeling off at that. However, it is as +wonderful as it is cracked up to be, and in some ways more systematic +than Versailles, which is what you naturally compare it to. The finest +thing architecturally is a Buddhist temple with big tiles, each of which +has a Buddha on--for further details see movie or something. We walked +somewhat higher than Russian Hill, including a journey through the caves +in an artificial mountain such as the Chinese delight in, clear up to +this temple. The Manchu family seems to own the thing yet, and charge a +big sum, or rather several sums, a la Niagara Falls, to get +about--another evidence that China needs another revolution, or rather +_a_ revolution, the first one having got rid of a dynasty and left, as +per my previous letters, a lot of corrupt governors in charge of chaos. +The only thing that I can see that keeps things together at all is that +while a lot of these generals and governors would like to grab more for +their individual selves, they are all afraid the whole thing would come +down round their ears if anyone made a definite move. Status quo is +China's middle name, mostly status and a little quo. I have one more +national motto to add to "You Never Can Tell" and "Let George Do It." It +is, "That is very bad." Instead of concealing things, they expose all +their weak and bad points very freely, and after setting them forth most +calmly and objectively, say "That is very bad." I don't know whether it +is possible for a people to be too reasonable, but it is certainly too +possible to take it out in being reasonable--and that's them. However, +it makes them wonderful companions. You can hardly blame the Japanese +for wanting to run them and supply the necessary pep when they decline +to run themselves. You certainly see the other side of the famous +one-track mind of Japan over here, as well as of other things. If you +keep doing something all the time, I don't know whether you need even a +single track mind. All you have to do is to keep going where you started +for, while others keep wobbling or never get started. + +Well, this morning we went to the famous museum, and there is one thing +where China is still ahead. It is housed in some of the old palaces and +audience halls of the inner, or purple, forbidden City. With the yellow +porcelain roofs, and the blue and green and gold, and the red walls, it +is really the barbaric splendor you read about, and about the first +thing that comes up to the conventional idea of what is Oriental. The +Hindoo influence is much stronger here than anywhere else we have been, +or else really Thibetan, I suppose, and many things remind one of the +Moorish. The city of Peking was a thousand years building, and was laid +out on a plan when the capitals of Europe were purely haphazard, so +there is no doubt they have organizing power all right if they care to +use it. The museum is literally one of treasures, porcelains, bronzes, +jade, etc., not an historic or antiquated museum. It costs ten cents to +get into the park here and much more into the museum, a dollar or more, +I guess, and we got the impression that it was fear of the crowd and the +populace rather than the money which controls; the rate is too high for +revenue purposes. + + + + +PEKING, June 1. + + +We have just seen a few hundred girls march away from the American Board +Mission school to go to see the President to ask him to release the boy +students who are in prison for making speeches on the street. To say +that life in China is exciting is to put it fairly. We are witnessing +the birth of a nation, and birth always comes hard. I may as well begin +at the right end and tell you what has happened while things have been +moving so fast I could not get time to write. Yesterday we went to see +the temples of Western Hills, conducted by one of the members of the +Ministry of Education. As we were running along the big street that +passes the city wall we saw students speaking to groups of people. This +was the first time the students had appeared for several days. We asked +the official if they would not be arrested, and he said, "No, not if +they keep within the law and do not make any trouble among the people." +This morning when we got the paper it was full of nothing else. The +worst thing is that the University has been turned into a prison with +military tents all around it and a notice on the outside that this is a +prison for students who disturb the peace by making speeches. As this is +all illegal, it amounts to a military seizure of the University and +therefore all the faculty will have to resign. They are to have a +meeting this afternoon to discuss the matter. After that is over, we +will probably know what has happened again. The other thing we heard was +that in addition to the two hundred students locked up in the Law +Building, two students were taken to the Police rooms and flogged on the +back. Those two students were making a speech and were arrested and +taken before the officers of the gendarmerie. Instead of shutting up as +they were expected to do, the boys asked some questions of these +officers that were embarrassing to answer. The officers then had them +flogged on the back. Thus far no one has been able to see any of the +officers. If the officers denied the accusation then the reporters would +ask to see the two prisoners on the principle that the officers could +have no reason for refusing that request unless the story were true. We +saw students making speeches this morning about eleven, when we started +to look for houses, and heard later that they had been arrested, that +they carried tooth brushes and towels in their pockets. Some stories say +that not two hundred but a thousand have been arrested. There are about +ten thousand striking in Peking alone. The marching out of those girls +was evidently a shock to their teachers and many mothers were there to +see them off. The girls were going to walk to the palace of the +President, which is some long distance from the school. If he does not +see them, they will remain standing outside all night and they will stay +there till he does see them. I fancy people will take them food. We +heard the imprisoned students got bedding at four this morning but no +food till after that time. There is water in the building and there is +room for them to lie on the floor. They are cleaner than they would be +in jail, and of course much happier for being together. + + + + +PEKING, June 2. + + +Maybe you would like to know a little about how we look this morning and +how we are living. In the first place, this is a big hotel with a bath +in each room. On a big street opposite to us is the wall of the legation +quarter, which has trees in it and big roofs which represent all that +China ought to have and has not. The weather is like our hot July, +except that it is drier than the August drought on Long Island. The +streets of Peking are the widest in the world, I guess, and ours leads +by the red walls of the Chinese city with the wonderful gates of which +you see pictures. It is macadamized in the middle, but on each side of +it run wider roads, which are used for the traffic. Thank your stars +there are good horses in Peking; men do not pull all the heavy loads. +The two side roads are worn down in deep ruts and these ruts are filled +with dust like finest ashes, and all thrown up into the air whenever a +man steps on it or a cart moves through. Our room faces the south on +this road. All day long the sun pours through the bamboo shades and the +hot air brings in that gray dust, and everything you touch, including +your own skin, is gritty and has a queer dry feeling that makes you +think you ought to run for water. I am learning to shut the windows and +inner blinds afternoons. Isn't it strange that in the latitude of New +York this drought should be expected every spring? In spite of all this +the fields have crops growing, thinly, to be sure, on the hard gray +fields. There are very few trees, and they are not of the biggest. The +grain is already about fit to cut, and the onions are ripe. After a +while it will rain and rain much and then new crops will be put in. The +flowers are almost gone and I am sorry that we did not see the famous +peonies. You will be interested to know that they keep the peonies +small; even the tree kind are cut down till they are the size of those +little ones of mine. The tuber peonies are transplanted each year or in +some way kept small and the blossoms are lovely and little. I have seen +white rose peonies and at first thought they were roses. The buds look +almost like the buds of our big white roses and they are very fragrant. +The peony beds are laid out in terraces held in place by brick walls, +usually oblong or oval, something like a huge pudding mold on a table. +Other times they are planted on the flat and surrounded by bamboo fences +of fancy design and geometrical pattern, usually with a square form to +include each division. The inner city has many peony beds of that sort, +both the tree and tuber kind, but they have only leaves to show now. + +Yesterday we went to the summer palace and to-day we are going to the +museum. That is really inside the Forbidden City, so at last we shall +set foot on the sacred ground. The summer palace is really wonderful, +but sad now, like all things made on too ambitious a scale to fit into +the uses of life. There is a mile of loggia ornamented with the green +and blue and red paintings which you see imitated. Through a window we +had a peek at the famous portrait of old Tsu Hsu and she looks just as +she did when I saw it exhibited in New York. The strange thing about it +is that it is still owned by the Hsu family. Huge rolls of costly rugs +and curtains lie in piles round the room and everything is covered with +this fine dust so thick that it is not possible to tell the color of a +table top. Cloissonne vases, or rather images of the famous blue ware +stand under the old lady's portrait, and everything is going to rack and +ruin. Meantime we wandered around, planning how it could be made over +into use when the revolution comes. Get rid of the idea that China has +had a revolution and is a republic; that point is just where we have +been deceived in the United States. China is at present the rotten +crumbling remnant of the old bureaucracy that surrounded the corruption +of the Manchus and that made them possible. The little Emperor is living +here in his palace surrounded by his eunuchs and his tutors and his two +mothers. He is fourteen and it is really funny to think that they have +just left him Emperor, but as he has not money except what the republic +votes him from year to year, nobody worries about him, unless it is the +Japanese, who want the imperial government restored until they get ready +to take it themselves. It looks as if they might be ready now except for +the nudge which has just been given to the peace conference. You had +better read a book about this situation, for it is the most surprising +affair in a lifetime. + +Yesterday we went to see a friend's house. It is interesting and I +should like to live in one like it. There is no water except what the +water man brings every day. This little house has eighteen rooms around +a court. It means four separate roofs and going outdoors to get from one +to another. When the mercury is at twenty below zero it would mean that +just the same. All the ground floors have stone floors. We did not see +all the rooms; there are paper windows in some and glass windows in +some. In summer they put on a temporary roof of mats over the court. It +is higher than the roofs and so allows ventilation and gives good shade. + + + + +June 5. + + +This is Thursday morning, and last night we heard that about one +thousand students were arrested the day before. Yesterday afternoon a +friend got a pass which permitted him to enter the building where the +students were confined. They have filled up the building of Law, and +have begun on the Science building, in consequence of which the faculty +have to go to the Missionary buildings to-day to hold their faculty +meeting. At four yesterday afternoon, the prisoners who had been put in +that day at ten had had no food. One of our friends went out and got the +University to appropriate some money and they ordered a carload of bread +sent in. This bread means some little biscuit sometimes called raised +biscuit at home. I think carload means one of the carts in which they +are delivered. At any rate, the boys had some food, though not at the +expense of the police. On the whole, the checkmate of the police seems +surely impending. They will soon have the buildings full, as the +students are getting more and more in earnest, and the most incredible +part of it is that the police are surprised. They really thought the +arrests would frighten the others from going on. So everybody is getting +an education. This morning one of our friends here is going to take us +up to the University to see the military encampment, and I hope he will +take us inside also, though I hardly think he will do the latter. + +As near as I can find out, the Chinese have reached that interesting +stage of development when they must do something for women and do as +little as they can, but in case they must have a girls' school they find +that a convenient place to unload an antiquated official who really +can't be endured any longer by real folks. + +No one can tell to-day what the students' strike will bring next; it may +bring a revolution, it may do anything surprising to the police, who +seem to be as lacking in imagination as police are famous for being. +Everyone here is getting ready to flee for the summer, which is very hot +during July. On the whole, the heat is perhaps less hard to endure than +the heat of New York, as it is so dry. But the dryness has its own +effect and when those hard winds blow up the dust storms it gets on the +nerves. Dust heaps up inside the house, and cuts the skin both inside +and outside of the body. This is a lucky day, being cloudy and a little +damp as if it might rain. + +The Western Hill was an experience to remember. Stepping from a Ford +limousine to a chair carried by four men and an outwalker alongside, we +were thus taken by fifteen men to the temples, your father, an officer +from the Department of Education, and I. The men walked over the paths +in the dust and on stones which no one thinks of picking up. It was so +astounding to call it a pleasure resort that we could only stare and +remain dumb. We saw three temples and one royal garden. Five hundred +Buddhas in one building, and all the buildings tumble-down and dirty. On +top of one hill is a huge building which cost a million or more to build +about four hundred years ago by someone for his tomb. Then he did +something wrong, probably stole from the wrong person, and was not +allowed to be buried there. Round the temple places the trees remain and +give a refreshing oasis, and there are some beautiful springs. All the +time we kept saying, "Trees ought to be planted." "Yes, but they take so +long to grow," or, "Yes, but they will not grow, it is so dry," etc. +Sometimes they would say, "Yes, we must plant some trees," or more +likely, "Yes, I think we may plant some trees sometime, but we have an +Arbor Day and the people cut down the trees or else they did." We would +show that the trees would grow because they were there round the +temples, and besides grass was growing and trees would grow where grass +would grow in such dry weather, and they would say the same things over. +It made the little forestry station in Nanking seem like a monumental +advance, while that fearful sun was beating up the dust under the stones +as the men gave us the Swedish massage in the motion of the chairs. +Fifty men and more stood around as we got in and out of the car and five +men apiece stood and waited for us as we walked round the temple and ate +our lunch and spent the time sipping tea, and yet they cannot plant +trees, and that is China. + +The whole country is covered every inch with stones. Nature has supplied +them, and falling walls are everywhere. We saw one great thing, however. +They are building a new school house and orphanage for the children of +that village. Many of the children are naked everywhere hereabouts and +they stand with sunburned heads, their backs covered only with coats of +dirt, eating their bean food in the street. Everywhere the food is laid +out on tables by the roadside ready to eat. In one temple, a certain +official here has promised to rebuild a small shrine which houses the +laughing Buddha, who is made of bronze and was once covered with +lacquer, which is now mostly split off. At present the only shade the +god has is a roof of mats which they have braced up on the pile of ruins +that once made a roof. The President of the Republic has built a lovely +big gate like the old ones, because it is propitious and would bring him +good fortune. But he has decided it was not propitious, something went +wrong with the gods, I did not learn what it was; anyway, he is now +tearing down one of the big buttresses on one side of it to see if fate +will treat him more kindly then. Just what he wants of fate I did not +learn either, but perhaps it is that fate should make him Emperor, as +that seems to be their idea of curing poverty and political evils. I +forgot to say that they never remove ruins; everything is left to lie as +it falls or is falling, so one gets a good idea of how gods are +constructed. Most of them were of clay, a sort of concrete built up on a +wood frame, and badly as they need wood I have never seen a sign of +piling up the fallen beams of a temple. Instead of that, you risk your +life by walking under these falling roofs unless you have the sense to +look after your own safety. In most of these Peking temples they do +sweep the floors and even some of the statues look as if they had some +time been dusted, though this last I am not certain about. + + + + +PEKING, June 5. + + +As has been remarked before, you never can tell. The students were +stirred up by orders dissolving their associations, and by the +"mandates" criticising the Japanese boycott and telling what valuable +services the two men whose dismissal was demanded had rendered the +country. So they got busy--the students. They were also angered because +the industrial departments of two schools were ordered closed by the +police. In these departments the students had set about seeing what +things of Japanese importation could be replaced by hand labor without +waiting for capital. After they worked it out in the school they went +out to the shops and taught the people how to make them, and then +peddled them about, making speeches at the same time. Well, yesterday +when we went about we noticed that the students were speaking more than +usual, and while the streets were full of soldiers the students were not +interfered with; in the afternoon a procession of about a thousand +students was even escorted by the police. Then in the evening a +telephone came from the University that the tents around the University +buildings where the students were imprisoned had been struck and the +soldiers were all leaving. Then the students inside held a meeting and +passed a resolution asking the government whether they were guaranteed +freedom of speech, because if they were not, they would not leave the +building merely to be arrested again, as they planned to go on speaking. +So they embarrassed the government by remaining in "jail" all night. We +haven't heard to-day what has happened, but the streets are free of +soldiers, and there were no students talking anywhere we went, so I +fancy a truce has been arranged while they try and fix things up. The +government's ignominious surrender was partly due to the fact that the +places of detention were getting full and about twice as many students +spoke yesterday as the day before, when they arrested a thousand, and +the government for the first time realized that they couldn't bulldoze +the students; it was also partly due to the fact that the merchants in +Shanghai struck the day before yesterday, and there is talk that the +Peking merchants are organizing for the same purpose. This is, once +more, a strange country; the so-called republic is a joke; all it has +meant so far is that instead of the Emperor having a steady job, the job +of ruling and looting is passed around to the clique that grabs power. +One of the leading militarist party generals invited his dearest enemy +to breakfast a while ago--within the last few months--in Peking, and +then lined his guest against the wall and had him shot. Did this affect +his status? He is still doing business at the old stand. But in some +ways there is more democracy than we have; leaving out the women, there +is complete social equality, and while the legislature is a perfect +farce, public opinion, when it does express itself, as at the present +time, has remarkable influence. Some think the worst officials will now +resign and get out, others that the militarists will attempt a coup +d'etat and seize still more power rather than back down. Fortunately, +the latter seem to be divided at the present time. But all of the +student (and teacher) crowd are much afraid that even if the present +gang is thrown out, it will be only to replace them by another set just +as bad, so they are refraining from appealing to the army for help. + +Later.--The students have now asked that the chief of police come +personally to escort them out and make an apology. In many ways, it +seems like an opera bouffe, but there is no doubt that up to date they +have shown more shrewdness and policy than the government, and are +getting the latter where it is a laughing stock, which is fatal in +China. But the government isn't inactive; they have appointed a new +Minister of Education and a new Chancellor of the University, both +respectable men, with no records and colorless characters. It is likely +the Faculty will decline to receive the new Chancellor unless he makes a +satisfactory declaration--which he obviously can't, and thus the row +will begin all over again, with the Faculty involved. If the government +dared, it would dissolve the University, but the scholar has a sacred +reputation in China. + + + + +June 7. + + +The whole story of the students is funny and not the least funny part is +that last Friday the students were speaking and parading with banners +and cheers and the police standing near them like guardian angels, no +one being arrested or molested. We heard that one student pouring out +hot eloquence was respectfully requested to move his audience along a +little for the reason that they were so numerous in statu quo as to +impede traffic, and the policeman would not like to be held responsible +for interfering with the traffic. Meantime, Saturday the government sent +an apology to the students who were still in prison of their own free +will waiting for the government to apologize and to give them the +assurance of free speech, etc. The students are said to have left the +building yesterday morning, though we have no accurate information. The +Faculty of the University met and refused to recognize or accept the new +Chancellor. They sent a committee to the government to tell them that, +and one to the Chancellor to tell him also and to ask him to resign. It +seems the newly-appointed Chancellor used to be at the head of the +engineering school of the University, but he was kicked out in the +political struggle. He is an official of the Yuan Shi Kai school and has +become a rich rubber merchant in Malay, and anyway they do not want a +mere rubber merchant as President of the University, and they think they +may so explain that to the new Chancellor that he will not look upon the +office as so attractive as he thought it was. + +There is complete segregation in this city in all public gatherings, the +women at the theaters are put off in one of those real galleries such as +we think used to be and are not now. The place for the women in the hall +of the Board of Education is good enough and on one side facing the hall +so that all the men can look at them freely and so protect that famous +modesty which I have heard more of in China than for many years +previously. + +Gasoline is one dollar a gallon here and a Ford car costs $1900. Ivory +soap five for one dollar. Clean your dress for $2.50. Tooth paste one +dollar a tube, vaseline 50 cents a small bottle. Washing three cents +each, including dresses and men's coats and shirts; fine cook ten +dollars a month. They have a very good one here, and I am going right on +getting fat on delicious Chinese food. The new Rockefeller Institute, +called the Union Medical College, is very near here, and they are making +beautiful buildings in the old Chinese style, to say nothing of their +Hygiene. They have just decided to open it to women, but I am rather +suspicious the requirements will prevent the women's using it at first. + +Peking is still much of a capital city and is divided into the diplomats +and the missionaries. It seems there is not much lacking except the old +Dowager Empress to make up the old Peking. + + + + +PEKING, June 10. + + +The students have taken the trick and won the game at the present +moment--I decline to predict the morrow when it comes to China. Sunday +morning I lectured at the auditorium of the Board of Education and at +that time the officials there didn't know what had happened. But the +government sent what is called a pacification delegate to the +self-imprisoned students to say that the government recognized that it +had made a mistake and apologized. Consequently the students marched +triumphantly out, and yesterday their street meetings were bigger and +more enthusiastic than ever. The day before they had hooted at four +unofficial delegates who had asked them to please come out of jail, but +who hadn't apologized. But the biggest victory is that it is now +reported that the government will to-day issue a mandate dismissing the +three men who are always called traitors--yesterday they had got to the +point of offering to dismiss one, the one whose house was attacked by +the students on the fourth of May, but they were told that that wouldn't +be enough, so now they have surrendered still more. Whether this will +satisfy the striking merchants or whether they will make further +demands, having won the first round, doesn't yet appear. There are lots +of rumors, of course. One is that the backdown is not only due to the +strike of merchants, but to a fear that the soldiers could no longer be +counted upon. There was even a rumor that a regiment at Western Hills +was going to start for Peking to side with the students. Rumors are one +of China's strong suits. When you realize that we have been here less +than six weeks, you will have to admit that we have been seeing life. +For a country that is regarded at home as stagnant and unchanging, there +is certainly something doing. + +This is the world's greatest kaleidoscope. + +Wilson's Decoration Day Address has just been published; perhaps it +sounds academic at home, but over here Chinese at least regard it as +very practical--as, in fact, a definite threat. On the other hand, we +continue to get tales of how the Washington State Department has +declined to take the reports sent from here as authentic. Lately they +have had a number of special agents over here, more or less secret, to +get independent information. + +In talking about democratic developments in America, whenever I make a +remark such as the Americans do not depend upon the government to do +things for them, but go ahead and do things for themselves, the response +is immediate and emphatic. The Chinese are socially a very democratic +people and their centralized government bores them. + + + + +June 16. + + +Chinesewise speaking, we are now having another lull. The three +"traitors" have had their resignations accepted, the cabinet is +undergoing reconstruction, the strike has been called off, both of +students and merchants (the railwaymen striking was the last straw), and +the mystery is what will happen next. There are evidences that the +extreme militarists are spitting on their hands to take hold in spite of +their defeat, and also that the President, who is said to be a moderate +and skillful politician, is nursing things along to get matters more and +more into his own hands. Although he issued a mandate against the +students and commending the traitors, the students' victory seems to +have strengthened him. I can't figure it out, but it is part of the +general beginning to read at the back of the book. The idea seems to be +that he has demonstrated the weakness of the militarists in the country, +while in sticking in form by them he has given them no excuse for +attacking him. They are attacking most everybody else in anonymous +circulars. One was got out signed "Thirteen hundred and fifty-eight +students," but giving no names, saying that the sole object of the +strike was to regain Tsingtao, but that a few men had tried to turn the +movement to their own ends, one wishing to be Chancellor of the +University. + + + + +PEKING, June 20. + + +Some time ago I had decided to tell you that here I had found the human +duplication of the bee colony in actual working order. China is it, and +in all particulars lives up to the perfect socialization of the race. +Nobody can do anything alone, nobody can do anything in a hurry. The +hunt of the bee for her cell goes on before one's eyes all the time. +When found, lo, the discovery that the cell was there all the time. Let +me give you an example. + +We go to the art school for lectures, enter by a door at the end of a +long hall. Behind that hall is another large room and in back of the +second room somewhere is a place where the men make the tea. Near the +front door where we enter is the table where we are always asked to sit +down before and after the lecture, whereat we sit down to partake of tea +and other beverages, such as soda. Well, the teacups are kept in a +cabinet at the front end of the first room right near the entrance door. +Comes a grown man from the rear somewhere; silently and with stately +tread he walks across the long room to the cabinet, takes one teacup in +each hand and retreads the space towards the back. After sufficient time +he returns bearing in his two hands these cups filled with hot tea. He +puts these down on the table for us and then he takes two more cups from +the cabinet, and retires once more, returning later as before. When +bottles are opened they are brought near the table, because otherwise +the soda would be spoiled in carrying open, never to save steps. + +The Chinese kitchen is always several feet from the dining room, under a +separate roof. Often you must cross a court in the open to get from one +to another. As it has not rained since we have been here, I do not know +what happens to the soup under the umbrella. But remember, the beehive +is the thing in China, and it is the old-fashioned beehive in the +barrel. When you look at the men who are doing it all they have the air +of strong, quiet beings who might do almost anything, but when you get +acquainted with them, how they do almost nothing is a marvelous +achievement. At Ching Hua College, said being the famous Boxer Indemnity +College, the houses are new and built by American initiative, and the +kitchen is forty feet from the dining room door in those. I will not +describe the kitchens, but when you see the clay stoves crumbling in +places, no sink, and one window on one side of the rather dark room, a +little room where the cook sleeps on a board and where both the men eat +their own frugal meals, it is all the Middle Ages undisturbed. + + + + +PEKING, June 20. + + +Last weekend we went out about ten miles to Ching Hua College; this is +the institution started with the returned Boxer Indemnity Fund; it's a +high school with about two years college work; they have just graduated +sixty or seventy who are going to America next year to finish up. They +go all around, largely to small colleges and the Middle West state +institutions, a good many to Tech and a number to Stevens, though none +go to Columbia, because it is in a big city; just what improvement +Hoboken is I don't know. China is full of Columbia men, but they went +there for graduate work. No doubt it is wise keeping them away from a +big city at first. Except for the instruction in Chinese, the teaching +is all done in English, and the boys seem to speak English quite well +already. It's a shame the way they will be treated, the insults they +will have to put up with in America before they get really adjusted. And +then when they get back here they have even a worse time getting +readjusted. They have been idealizing their native land at the same time +that they have got Americanized without knowing it, and they have a hard +time to get a job to make a living. They have been told that they are +the future saviors of their country and then their country doesn't want +them for anything at all--and they can't help making comparisons and +realizing the backwardness of China and its awful problems. At the same +time at the bottom of his heart probably every Chinese is convinced of +the superiority of Chinese civilization--and maybe they are right--three +thousand years is quite a spell to hold on. + +You may come over here some time in your life, so it will do no harm to +learn about the money--_about_ it, nobody but the Chinese bankers ever +learn it. There are eleven dimes in a dollar and six twenty-cent pieces, +and while there are only eleven coppers in a dime, there are one hundred +and thirty-eight in a dollar. Consequently the thrifty always carry a +pound or two of big coppers with them to pay 'ricksha men with. Then +there are various kinds of paper money. We are going to Western Hills +tomorrow night, and under instructions I bought some dollars at +sixty-five cents apiece which are good for a whole dollar on this +railway and apparently nowhere else. On the contrary, the foreigners are +done all the time at the hotels; there they only give you five +twenty-cent pieces in change for a dollar, and so on--but they are run +by foreigners, and not by the wily Chinese. One thing you will be glad +to know is that Peking is Americanized to the extent that we have ice +cream at least once a day, two big helpings. This helps. + +A word to the wise. Never ask a Chinese whether it is going to rain, or +any other question about the coming weather. The turtle is supposed to +be a weather prophet, and as the turtle is regarded as the vilest +creature on earth, you can see what an insult such a question is. One of +their subtle compliments to the Japanese during the late campaign was to +take a straw hat, of Japanese make, which they had removed from a +passerby's head, and cut it into the likeness of a turtle and then nail +it up on a telephone post. + +I find, by the way, that I didn't do the students justice when I +compared their first demonstration here to a college boys' roughhouse; +the whole thing was planned carefully, it seems, and was even pulled off +earlier than would otherwise have been the case, because one of the +political parties was going to demonstrate soon, and they were afraid +their movement (coming at the same time) would make it look as if they +were an agency of the political faction, and they wanted to act +independently as students. To think of kids in our country from fourteen +on, taking the lead in starting a big cleanup reform politics movement +and shaming merchants and professional men into joining them. This is +sure some country. + + + + +PEKING, June 23. + + +Last night we had a lovely dinner at the house of a Chinese official. +All the guests were men except me and the fourteen-year-old daughter of +the house. She was educated in an English school here and speaks +beautiful English, besides being a talented and interesting girl. +Chinese girls at her age seem older than ours. The family consists of +five children and two wives. I found the reason the daughter was hostess +was that it was embarrassing to choose between the two wives for hostess +and they didn't want to give us a bad impression, so no wife appeared. +We were given to understand that the reason for the non-appearance was +that mother was sick. There is a new little baby six weeks old. The +father is a delicate, refined little man, very proud of his children and +fond of them, and they were all brought out to see us, even the six +weeks older, who was very hot in a little red dress. Our host is the +leader of a party of liberal progressives, and also an art collector. We +had hopes he would show us his collection of things. He did not, except +for the lovely porcelain that was on the table. The house is big and +behind the wall of the Purple City, as they call the old Forbidden City, +and it looks on the famous old pagoda, so it was interesting. We sat in +the court for coffee and there seemed to be many more courts leading on +one behind another as they do here, sometimes fourteen or more, with +chains of houses around each one. + +As for the dinner, I forgot to say that the cook is a remarkable man, +Fukien, who gave us the most delicious Chinese cookery with French names +attached on the menu. Cooking is apt to be named geographically here. +Most everyone in Peking came from somewhere else, just as should be in a +capital city. But they seem to keep the cooks and cook in accordance +with the predilections of the old home province. They have adopted ice +cream, showing the natural sense of the race, but the daughter of our +host told me that they do not give it to the sick, as they still have +the idea that the sick should have nothing cold. + +They are now thrashing the wheat in this locality. That consists of +cutting it with the sickle and having the women and children glean. The +main crop is scattered on the floor, as it is called, being a hard piece +of ground near the house, and then the wheat is treaded out by a pair of +donkeys attached to a roller about as big as our garden roller. After it +is out of the husk, it is winnowed by being tossed in the breeze, which +takes the time of a number of people and leaves in a share of the mother +earth. The crops are very thin round this region and they say that they +are thinner than usual, as this is a drier year than usual. Corn is +small, but there is some growing between here and the hills where we +went, always in the little pieces of ground, of course. Peanuts and +sweet potatoes are planted now, and they seem to be growing well in the +dust, which has been wet by the recent day of rain. + + + + +PEKING, June 25. + + +Simple facts for home consumption. All boards in China are sawed by +hand--two men and a saw, like a cross-cut buck-saw. At the new Hotel de +Peking, a big building, instead of carrying window casings ready to put +in, they are carrying big logs cut the proper length for a casing. +Spitting is a common accomplishment. When a school girl wants excuse to +leave her seat she walks across the room and spits vigorously in the +spittoon. Little melons are now ready to eat. They come like ripe +cucumbers, small, rather sweet. Coolies and boys eat them, skins and +all, on the street. Children eat small green apples. Peaches are +expensive, but those who can get the green hard ones eat them raw. The +potted pomegranates are now in bloom and also in fruit in the pots. The +color is a wonderful scarlet. The lotus ponds are in bloom--wonderful +color in a deep rose. When the buds are nearly ready to open they look +as if they were about to explode and fill the air with their intense +color. The huge leaves are brilliant and lovely--light green and +delicately veined. But the lotus was never made for art, and only +religion could have made it acceptable to art. The sacred ponds are well +kept and are in the old moats of the Purple City--Forbidden. There are +twice as many men in Peking as women. + +Sunday we went to a Chinese wedding. It was at the Naval Club--no +difference in appearance from our ceremony. Bride and groom both in the +conventional foreign dress. They had a ring. At the supper there were +six tables full of men, and three partly full of women and children. +Women take their children and their amahs everywhere in China--I mean +wherever they go and provided they want to; it is the custom. None of +the men spoke to the women at the wedding--except rare returned +students. Eggs cost $1.00 for 120--we get all we want in our boarding +house. Men take birds out for walks--either in cages or with one leg +tied to a string attached to a stick on which the bird perches. + + + + +PEKING, June 27. + + +It's a wonder we were ever let out of Japan at all. It's fatal; I could +now tell after reading ten lines of the writings of any traveler whether +he ever journeyed beyond a certain point. You have to hand it to the +Japanese. Their country is beautiful, their treatment of visitors is +beautiful, and they have the most artistic knack of making the visible +side of everything beautiful, or at least attractive. Deliberate deceit +couldn't be one-tenth as effective; it's a real gift of art. They are +the greatest manipulators of the outside of things that ever lived. I +realized when I was there that they were a nation of specialists, but I +didn't realize that foreign affairs and diplomacy were also such a +specialized art. + +The new acting Minister of Education has invited us to dinner soon. This +man doesn't appear to have any past educational record, but he has +pursued a conciliatory course; the other one resigned and disappeared +when he found he couldn't control things. The really liberal element +does not appear to be strong enough at present to influence politics +practically. The struggle is between the extreme militarists, who are +said to be under Japanese influence, and the group of somewhat colorless +moderates headed by the President. As he gets a chance he appears to be +putting his men in. The immediate gain seems to be negative in keeping +the other crowd out instead of positive, but they are at least honest +and will probably respond when there is enough organized liberal +pressure brought to bear upon them. + +It cannot be denied that it is hot here. Yesterday we went out in +'rickshas about the middle of the day and I don't believe I ever felt +such heat. It is like the Yosemite, only considerably more intense as +well as for longer periods of time. The only consolation one gets from +noting that it isn't humid is that if it were, one couldn't live at all. +But the desert sands aren't moist either. Your mother asked the coolie +why he didn't wear a hat, and he said because it was too hot. Think of +pulling a person at the rate of five or six miles an hour in the sun of +a hundred and twenty or thirty with your head exposed. Most of the +coolies who work in the sun have nothing on their heads. It's either +survival of the fittest or inheritance of acquired characteristics. +Their adaptation to every kind of physical discomfort is certainly one +of the wonders of the world. You ought to see the places where they lie +down to go to sleep. They have it all over Napoleon. This is also the +country of itinerant domesticity. I doubt if lots of the 'ricksha men +have any places to sleep except in their carts. And a large part of the +population must buy their food of the street pedlars, who sell every +conceivable cooked thing; then there are lots of cooked food stores +besides the street men. + + + + +PEKING, July 2. + + +The rainy season has set in, and now we have floods and also coolness, +the temperature having fallen from the late nineties to the early +seventies, and life seems more worth living again. + +This is a great country for pictures, and I am most anxious for one of a +middle-aged Chinese, inclining to be fat, with a broad-brimmed straw +hat, sitting on the back of a very small and placid cream colored +donkey. He is fanning himself as the donkey moves imperceptibly along +the highway, is satisfied with himself and at ease with the world, and +everything in the world, whatever happens. This would be a good +frontispiece for a book on China--and the joke wouldn't all be on the +Chinese either. + +To-day the report is that the Chinese delegates refused to sign the +Paris treaty; the news seems too good to be true, but nobody can learn +the facts. There are also rumors that the governmental military party, +having got everything almost out of Japan that is coming to them and +finding themselves on the unpopular side, are about to forget that they +ever knew the Japanese and to come out very patriotic. This is also +unconfirmed, but I suppose the only reason they would stay bought in any +case is that there are no other bidders in the market. + + + + +PEKING, Wednesday, July 2. + + +The anxiety here is tense. The report is that the delegates did not +sign, but so vaguely worded as to leave conjectures and no confirmation. +Meanwhile the students' organizations, etc., have begun another attack +against the government by demanding the dissolution of Parliament. +Meantime there is no cabinet and the President can get no one to form +one, and half those inside seem to be also on the strike because the +other half are there. + + + + +PEKING, July 4. + + +We are going out to the Higher Normal this morning. The head of the +industrial department is going to take us. The students are erecting +three new school buildings this summer--they made the plans, designs, +details, and are supervising the erection as well as doing the routine +carpenter work. The head of the industrial department, who acted as our +guide and host, has been organizing the "national industry" activity in +connection with the students' agitation. He is now, among other things, +trying to organize apprentice schools under guild control. The idea is +to take the brightest apprentice available in each "factory"--really, of +course, just a household group--and give them two hours' schooling a day +with a view to introducing new methods and new products into the +industry. They are going to take metal working here. Then he hopes it +will spread all over China. You cannot imagine the industrial +backwardness here, not only as compared with us but with Japan. +Consequently their markets here are flooded with cheap flimsy Japan-made +stuff, which they buy because it's cheap, the line of least resistance. +But perhaps the Shantung business will be worth its cost. The cotton +guild is very anxious to co-operate and they will supply capital if the +schools can guarantee skilled workingmen, especially superintendents. +Now they sell four million worth of cotton to Japan, where it is spun, +and then buy back the same cotton in thread for fourteen million--which +they weave. This is beside the large amount of woven cotton goods they +import. + +I find in reading books that the Awakening of China has been announced a +dozen or more times by foreign travelers in the last ten years, so I +hesitate to announce it again, but I think this is the first time the +merchants and guilds have really been actively stirred to try to improve +industrial methods. And if so, it _is_ a real awakening--that and the +combination with the students. I read the translations from Japanese +every few days, and it would be very interesting to know whether their +ignorance is real or assumed. Probably some of both--it is inconceivable +that they should be as poor judges of Chinese psychology as the articles +indicate. But at the same time they have to keep up a certain tone of +belief among the people at home--namely, that the Chinese really prefer +the Japanese to all other foreigners; for they realize their dependence +upon them, and if they do not make common cause with them it is because +foreigners, chiefly Americans, instigate it all from mercenary and +political motives. As a matter of fact, I doubt if history knows of any +such complete case of national dislike and distrust; it sometimes seems +as if there hadn't been a single thing that the Japanese might have done +to alienate the Chinese that they haven't tried. The Chinese would feel +pretty sore at America for inviting them into the war and then leaving +them in the lurch, if the Japanese papers and politicians hadn't spent +all their time the last three months abusing America--then their sweet +speeches in America. It will be interesting to watch and see just what +particular string they trip on finally. + +It's getting to the end of an Imperfect Day. We saw the school as per +program and I find I made a mistake. The boys made the plans of the +three buildings and are supervising their erection, but not doing the +building. They are staying in school all summer, however--those in the +woodworking class--and have taken a contract for making all the desks +for the new buildings--the school gives them room and board (food and +its preparation costs about five dollars per month), and they +practically give their time. All the metal-working boys are staying in +Peking and working in the shops to improve and diversify the products. +Remember these are boys, eighteen to twenty, and that they are carrying +on their propaganda for their country; that the summer averages one +hundred in the shade in Peking, and you'll admit there is some stuff +here. + +This P.M. we went to a piece of the celebration. The piece we saw wasn't +so very Fourth of Julyish, but it was interesting--Chinese sleight of +hand. Their long robe is an advantage, but none the less it can't be so +very easy to move about with a very large sized punch bowl filled to the +brim with water, or with five glass bowls each with a gold fish in it, +ready to bring out. It seems that sometimes the artist turns a +somersault just as he brings out the big bowl of water, but we didn't +get that. None of the tricks were complicated, but they were the neatest +I ever saw. There is a home-made minstrel show to-night, but it rained, +and as the show (and dance later) are in the open, we aren't going, as +we intended. + +You can't imagine what it means here for China not to have signed. The +entire government has been for it--the President up to ten days before +the signing said it was necessary. It was a victory for public opinion, +and all set going by these little schoolboys and girls. Certainly the +United States ought to be ashamed when China can do a thing of this +sort. + + + + +Sunday, July 7. + + +We had quite another ride yesterday, sixty or seventy miles altogether. +The reason for the macadam road is worth telling. When Yuan Shi Kai was +planning to be Emperor his son broke his leg, and he heard the hot +springs would be good for him. So one of the officials made a road to +it. Some of the present day officials, including an ex-official who was +recently forced to resign after being beaten up, now own the springs and +hotel, so the road will continue to be taken care of. On the way we went +through the village of the White Snake and also of the One Hundred +Virtues. + +Y. M. C. A.'s and Red Crossers are still coming from Siberia on their +way home. I don't know whether they will talk freely when they get home. +It is one mess, and the stories they will tell won't improve our foreign +relations any. The Bolsheviki aren't the only ones that shoot up +villages and take the loot--so far the Americans haven't done it. + + + + +PEKING, July 8. + + +This morning the papers here reported the denial of Japan that she had +made a secret treaty with Germany. The opinion here seems to be that +they did not, but merely that preliminaries had begun with reference to +such a treaty. We heard at dinner the other day from responsible +American officials here that, after America had completed the last of +the arrangements for China to go into the war, the Japanese arranged to +get a concession from Russia for the delivery on the part of the +Japanese of China into the war on the side of the Allies. + +Well, the Japanese are still at it with the cat out of the bag. It looks +now as if they are getting ready to break up the present government in +Japan. This is interpreted to mean that that breakup will be made to +look as if it were in disapproval of the present mistakes in diplomacy +and of the price of rice; and then they can put in a worse one there and +the world will not know the difference, but will be made to think that +Japan is reforming. Speaking of constitutionality in Japan, I ceased to +worry about that as soon as I learned the older statesmen never troubled +at all about who was elected, but just let the elections go through, as +their business was so assured in other ways that the elections made no +difference anyway, and that the same principle worked equally well in +the matter of passing bills. No bill can ever come up without the +approval of the powers that be and they know how it is coming out in +spite of all discussions. No wonder change comes slowly and maybe it +will have to come all at once in the form of a revolution if it comes in +reality. It is now reported that Tsai, the Chancellor of the University +here, has said he will come back on condition that the students do not +move in future in any political matter without his consent, and I am not +able to guess whether that is a concession or a clever way of seeming to +agree with both sides at once. The announcement of Tsai's return means +that things will soon be back in normal shape and ready for another +upheaval. + +We seem to be utterly stumped by the house situation. All the members of +the Rockefeller Foundation get nice new houses built for them, and the +houses are nice new Chinese ones but free from the poor qualities of +those to be rented here. All the houses in Peking are built like our +woodsheds, directly on the ground, raised a few inches from actual +contact with the earth by a stone floor. The courts fill with water when +the rains are hard and then they are moist for days, maybe weeks, and +about two feet of wet seeps up the side of the walls. Yesterday we +called on one of our Chinese friends here, and the whole place was in +that state, but he did not seem to notice it. If he wants baths in the +house it doubles the cost he pays the water wagon, and then after all +the trouble of heating and carrying the water there is no way to dispose +of the waste, except to get a man to come and carry it away in buckets. +You would have endless occupation here just looking on to see how this +bee colony can find so many ways of making life hard for itself. A +gentleman at the Foundation has just been telling us how the coolies +steal every little piece of metal, leftovers or screwed on, that they +can get at. The privation of life sets up an entirely new set of +standards for morals. No one, it appears, can be convicted for stealing +food in China. + + + + +PEKING, July 8. + + +The Rockefeller buildings are lovely samples of what money can do. In +the midst of this worn and weak city they stand out like illuminating +monuments of the splendor of the past in proper combination with the +modern idea. They are in the finest old style of Chinese architecture; +green roofs instead of yellow, with three stories instead of one. One +wonders how long it will take China to catch up and know what they are +doing. It is said the Chinese are not at all inclined to go to their +hospital for fear of the ultra foreign methods which they do not yet +understand. On the other hand, there is no disposition on the part of +the Institution to meet them half way as the missionaries have always +done. There are a number of Chinese among the doctors and they have now +opened all the work to the women. There is a great need for women +doctors now in China, but evidently it will take a generation yet before +this work will begin to be understood and will take its natural place in +Chinese affairs. It is rather amusing that this splendid set of +buildings quite surrounds and overshadows the biggest Japanese hospital +and school that is in Peking, and they say the fact has quite humiliated +the Japanese. At present the buildings are nearing completion, but all +the old rubbishy structures of former times will have to be pulled down +before these new ones can be seen in all their beauty. Among other +things, they have built thirty-five houses also in Chinese style but +with all the modern comforts, in which to house their faculty, and in +addition to those there are a good many buildings which were taken over +from the old medical missionary College, besides, perhaps, some that +will be left from the palace of the Prince whose property they bought. +Two fine old lions are an addition from the Prince, but no foreign +family would stand the inconveniences and discomforts of the ancient +Prince, in spite of all his wives. + + + + +PEKING, July 11. + + +They have the best melons here you ever saw. Their watermelons, which +are sold on the street in such quantities as to put even the southern +negroes to shame, are just like yellow ice cream in color, but they +aren't as juicy as ours. Their musk melons aren't spicy like the ones at +home at all, but are shaped like pears, only bigger and have an acid +taste; in fact they are more like a cucumber with a little acid pep in +them, only the seeds are all in the center like our melons. When you get +macaroons and little cakes here in straight Chinese houses you realize +that neither we nor the Europeans were the first to begin eating. They +either boil or steam their bread--they eat wheat instead of rice in this +part of the country--or fry it, and I have no doubt that doughnuts were +brought home to grandma by some old seafaring captain. These things are +all the stranger because, except for sponge cake, no such things are +indigenous to Japan. So when you first get here you can hardly resist +the impression that these things have been brought to China from America +or Europe. Read a book called "Two Heroes of Cathay," by Luella Miner, +and see how our country has treated some of these people in the past, +and then you see them so fond of America and of Americans and you +realize that in some ways they are ahead of us in what used to be known +as Christianity before the war. I guess we wrote you from Hangchow about +seeing the monument and shrine to two Chinese officials who were torn in +pieces at the time of the Boxer rebellion because they changed a +telegram to the provincial officers "Kill all foreigners" to read +"Protect all foreigners." The shrine is kept up, of course, by the +Chinese, and very few foreigners in China even know of the incident. + +Their art is really childlike and all the new kinds of artists in +America who think being queer is being primitive ought to come over here +and study the Chinese in their native abodes. A great love of bright +colors and a wonderful knowledge of how to combine them, a comparatively +few patterns used over and over in all kinds of ways, and a preference +for designs that illustrate some story or idea or that appeal to their +sense of the funny--it's a good deal more childlike than what passes in +Greenwich Village for the childlike in art. + + + + +Y.M.C.A., PEKING, July 17. + + +A young Korean arrived here in the evening and he was met here on our +porch by a Chinese citizen who is also Korean. The newly arrived could +speak very little English and by means of a triangle we were able to +arrive at his story. It seems there is quite a leakage of Korean +students over the Chinese border all the time. To become a Chinese +student requires six years of residence, or else it was three; anyway +enough to postpone the idea of going to America to study till rather +late in case one wants to resort to that way of escape from Japanese +oppression. The elder and the one who has become a Chinese citizen +seemed a good deal excited; I fancy they are dramatic by nature, and +made many gestures. He urged on me the importance of our going to Korea +and he is going to bring us some pictures to look at. Well, it all set +me thinking, and so I have been reading the Korean guide book and +reflecting on the wonderful climate there and wondering if we can get a +reasonable place to stay. My first discovery of the real seriousness of +the Korean situation came across me in Japan early in March, when we had +a holiday on account of the funeral of the Korean prince, for the reason +that after the funeral and gradually in connection with it the _Japanese +Advertiser_ said it was rumored that the old Korean prince had committed +suicide. Doubtless you may know the story there, and then again you may +not. However, the facts have leaked one way and another and now it is +known that the old man did commit suicide in order to prevent the +marriage of the young prince, who has been brought up in Japan, to the +Japanese princess. By etiquette his death, taking place three days or so +before the date set for the wedding, prevented the marriage from taking +place for two years, and it is hoped by the Koreans that before two +years they could weaken the Japanese grip on Korea. We all know they +have made a beginning since last March and the suicide did something to +help that along. Now that Japan is advertising political reforms in +Korea she would probably count on that reputation again to cover her +real activities and intentions with the world at large for some time to +come. The Japanese are like the Italian Padrones or other skillful newly +rich; they have learned the western efficiency and in that they are at +least a generation ahead of their neighbors. New knowledge to take +advantage of the old experience which she has moved away from and +understands so well, to make that experience contribute all it has +towards building up and strengthening the new riches of herself. The +excuse is the one of the short and easy road to success though in the +long run it is destructive in its bearings. But a certain physical +efficiency is what Japan surely has and she has made that go a little +further than it really can go. It is just one more evidence of the +failure of the Peace Conference to comprehend the excuses that Wilson is +making for the concessions he has granted to the practical needs, as he +calls them. We are now getting the first echoes from his speeches here. + +When I reflect on the changed aspect of our minds and on the facts that +we have become accustomed to gradually since coming here I realize we +have much to explain to you which now seems a matter of course over +here. We discovered from reading an old back number somewhere that an +American traveler had been given the order of the Royal Treasure in +Japan when he was there. This order is said to be bestowed on the +Japanese alone. Before he received it he had made a public speech to the +effect that as China was down and out and needed some protector it was +natural that Japan should be that, as by all historical reasons she was +fitted to be. It appears to be true that the Militarists here who are +causing the trouble for China and who are able to hold the government on +account of foreign support have that idea so far as the "natural" goes. +The great man of China to-day is Hsu, commonly known as Little Hsu, +which is a good nickname in English, Little Shoe. He has never been in +the western hemisphere and he thinks it is better for China to give a +part of her territory to the Japanese who will help them, than to hope +for anything from the other foreigners, who only want to exploit them, +and if once China can get a stable government with the aid of the +Japanese militarists, then after that she can build herself into a +nation. Meantime Little Shoe has gained by a sad fluke in the +legislature the appointment of Military Dictator of Mongolia, and this +means he is given full power to use his army for agricultural and any +other enterprises he may choose. It means, in short, that he is absolute +dictator of all Mongolia which is retained by China and which is +bordered by Eastern Inner Mongolia which Japan controls under the +twenty-one Demands by a ninety-nine-year lease under the same absolute +conditions. These last few days since that act was consummated, nothing +is happening so far as the public knows, and according to friends the +government can go on indefinitely here with no cabinet and no +responsibility to react to the public demands. The bulk of the nation is +against this state of affairs, but with the support of foreigners and +the lack of organization there is nothing to do but stand it and see the +nation sold out to Japan and other grabbers. If you can get at +_Millard's Review_, look at it and read especially the recent act of the +Foreign Council which licensed the press--I mean they passed an Act to +do so. Fortunately the Act is not legal and will not be ratified by the +Chinese Council at Shanghai. + +To this house come the officers of the Y. M.C.A. who are on the way home +from Siberia and other places. The stories one hears here are full of +horror and always the same. Our men are too few to accomplish anything +and the whole affair is not any of our business anyway. Anyway the +Canadians have a sense of virtue in getting out of it and going home, +and well they may, say I. The Japanese have had 70,000 there at least +and they may have shipped many more than that, for they have such a +command of the railroads that there is no way of keeping track of them. +I believe the conviction is they are taking in men according to their +own judgment of the case all the time. Everybody agrees that the +Japanese soldiers are hated by all the others and have generally proved +themselves disagreeable, the Chinese being thoroughly liked. + +Meantime the dissatisfaction in Japan over rice in particular and food +in general is quite evidently becoming more and more acute. And it is +interesting to read the interviews with Count Ishii which all end up in +the same way, that the fear of bomb-throwers in the United States is +becoming a very serious alarm among all. The Anti-American agitation was +hard for us to understand while we were there, but its meaning is less +obscure now. Will it be effective? Is another world war already +preparing? It is said here that the students were very successful during +the strike in converting soldiers to their ideas. The boys at the High +Normal said they were disappointed when they were let out of jail at the +University because they had not converted more than half the soldiers. +The guards around those boys were changed every four hours. + +It is raining most of the time and it is typical of the Chinese +character that my teacher did not come because of the rain. You have to +remember he never takes a 'ricksha, though he might have looked at it +that it was better to pay a man than to lose the lesson. The mud in the +roads here is much like the old days on Long Island before the gravel +was put there, only it is softer and more slippery here, and the water +stands. + + + + +PEKING, July 17. + + +We are pleased to learn that the Japanese censor hasn't detained all our +letters, though since you call them incoherent there must be some gaps. +I'm sure we never write anything incoherent if you get it all. The +course of events has been a trifle incoherent if you don't sit up and +hold its hands all the time. Since China didn't sign the peace treaty +things have quite settled down here, however, and the lack of excitement +after living on aerated news for a couple of months is quite a letdown. +However, we live in hopes of revolution or a coup d'etat or some other +little incident to liven up the dog days. + +You will be pleased to know that the University Chancellor--see letters +of early May--has finally announced that he will return to the +University. It is supposed that the Government has assented to his +conditions, among which is that the police won't interfere with the +students, but will leave discipline to the University authorities. To +resign and run away in order to be coaxed back is an art. It's too bad +Wilson never studied it. The Chinese peace delegates reported back here +that Lloyd George inquired what the twenty-one Demands were, as he had +never heard of them. However, the Chinese hold Balfour as most +responsible. In order to avoid any incoherence I will add that a Chinese +servant informed a small boy in the household of one of our friends here +that the Chinese are much more cleanly than the foreigners, for they +have people come to them to clean their ears and said cleaners go way +down in. This is an unanswerable argument. + +I hear your mother downstairs engaged on the fascinating task of trying +to make Chinese tones. I may tell you that there are only four hundred +spoken words in Chinese, all monosyllables. But each one of these is +spoken in a different tone, there being four tones in this part of the +country and increasing as you go south till in Canton there are twelve +or more. In writing there are only 214 radicals, which are then combined +and mixed up in all sorts of ways. My last name here is Du, my given +name is Wei. The Du is made up of two characters, one of which means +tree and the other earth. They are written separately. Then Wei is made +up of some more characters mixed up together, one character for woman +and one for dart, and I don't know what else. Don't ask me how they +decided that earth and tree put together made Du, for I can't tell. + + + + +PEKING, July 19. + + +I met the tutor, the English tutor, of the young Manchu Emperor, the +other day--he has three Chinese tutors besides. He teaches him Math., +Sciences, etc., besides English, which he has been doing for three +months. It is characteristic of the Chinese that they not only didn't +kill any of the royal family, but they left them one of the palaces in +the Imperial City and an income of four million dollars Mex. a year, and +within this palace the kid who is now thirteen is still Emperor, is +called that, and is waited upon by the eunuch attendants who crawl +before him on their hands and knees. At the same time he is, of course, +practically a prisoner, being allowed to see his father and his younger +brother once a month. Otherwise he has no children to play with at all. +There is some romance left in China after all if you want to let your +imagination play about this scene. The tutors don't kneel, although they +address him as Your Majesty, or whatever it is in Chinese, and they walk +in and he remains standing until the tutor is seated. This is the old +custom, which shows the reverence in which even the old Tartars must +have held education and learning. He has a Chinese garden in which to +walk, but no place to ride or for sports. The tutor is trying to get the +authorities to send him to the country, let him have playmates and +sports, and also abolish the eunuch--but he seems to think they will +more likely abolish him. The kid is quite bright, reads all the +newspapers and is much interested in politics, keeps track of the Paris +Conference, knows about the politicians in all the countries, and in +short knows a good deal more about world politics than most boys of his +age; also he is a good classical Chinese scholar. The Chinese don't seem +to worry at all about the boy's becoming the center of intrigue and +plots, but I imagine they sort of keep him in reserve with the idea that +unless the people want monarchy back he never can do anything, while if +they do let him back it will be the will of heaven. + +I am afraid I haven't sufficiently impressed it upon you that this is +the rainy season. It was impressed upon us yesterday afternoon, when the +side street upon which we live was a flowing river a foot and a half +deep. The main street on which the Y. M. C. A. building is situated was +a solid lake from housewall to housewall, though not more than six +inches or so. But the street is considerably wider than Broadway, so it +was something of a sight. Peking has for many hundred years had sewers +big enough for a man to stand up in, but they don't carry fast enough. +Probably about this time you will be reading cables from some part of +China about floods and the number of homeless. The Yellow River is known +as the curse of China, so much damage is done. We were told that when +the missionaries went down to do flood relief work a year or so ago, +they were so busy that they didn't have time to preach, and they did so +much good that when they were through they had to put up the bars to +keep the Chinese from joining the churches en masse. We haven't heard, +however, that they took the hint as to the best way of doing business. +These floods go back largely if not wholly to the policy of the Chinese +in stripping the forests. If you were to see the big coffins they are +buried in and realize the large part of China's scant forests that must +go into coffins you would favor a law that no man could die until he had +planted a tree for his coffin and one extra. + +One of our new friends here is quite an important politician, though +quite out of it just now. He told a story last night which tickled the +Chinese greatly. The Japanese minister here haunted the President and +Prime Minister while the peace negotiations were on, and every day on +the strength of what they told him cabled the Tokyo government that the +Chinese delegates were surely going to sign. Now he is in a somewhat +uncomfortable position making explanations to the home government. He +sent a representative after they didn't sign to the above-mentioned +friend to ask him whether the government had been fooling him all the +time. He replied No, but that the Japanese should remember that there +was one power greater than the government, namely, the people, and that +the delegates had obeyed the people. The Japanese will never be able to +make up their minds though whether they were being deliberately deceived +or not. The worst of the whole thing, however, is that even intelligent +Chinese are relying upon war between the United States and Japan, and +when they find out that the United States won't go to war just on +China's account, there will be some kind of a revulsion. But if the +United States had used its power when the war closed to compel +disarmament and get some kind of a just settlement, there would be no +limit to its influence over here. As it is, they infer that the moral is +that Might Controls, and that adds enormously to the moral power of +Japan as against the United States. It is even plainer here than at home +that if the United States wasn't going to see its "ideals" through, it +shouldn't have professed any, but if it did profess them it ought to +have made good on 'em even if we had to fight the whole world. However, +our financial pressure, and the threat of withholding food and raw +materials would have enabled Wilson to put anything over. + +Another little incident is connected with the Chancellor of the +University. Although he is not a politician at all, the Militarist party +holds him responsible for their recent trials and the student outbreaks. +So, although it announced that the Chancellor is coming back, the Anfu +Club, the parliamentary organization of the militarists, is still trying +to keep him out. The other night they gave a banquet to some University +students and bribed them to start something. At the end they gave each +one dollar extra for 'ricksha hire the next day, so there would be no +excuse for not going to the meeting at the University. Fifteen turned +up, but the spies on the other side heard something was going on and +they rang the bell, collected about a hundred and locked the bribees in. +Then they kept them in till they confessed the whole story (and put +their names to a written confession) and turned over their resolutions +and mimeographed papers which had been prepared for them in which they +said they were really the majority of the students and did not want the +Chancellor back, and that a noisy minority had imposed on the public, +etc. The next day the Anfu papers told about an awful riot at the +University, and how a certain person had instigated and led it, although +he hadn't been at the University at all that day. + + + + +PEKING, July 24. + + +We expect to go to Manchuria, probably in September, and in October to +Shansi, which is quite celebrated now because they have a civil governor +who properly devotes himself to his job, and they are said to have sixty +per cent or more of the children in school and to be prepared for +compulsory education in 1920. It is the ease with which the Chinese do +these things without any foreign assistance which makes you feel so +hopeful for China on the one hand, and so disgusted on the other that +they put up so patiently with inefficiency and graft most of the time. +There seems to be a general impression that the present situation cannot +continue indefinitely, but must take a turn one way or another. The +student agitation has died down as an active political thing but +continues intellectually. In Tientsin, for example, they publish several +daily newspapers which sell for a copper apiece. A number of students +have been arrested in Shantung lately by the Japanese, so I suppose the +students are actively busy there. I fancy that when vacation began there +was quite an exodus in that direction. + +I am told that X----, our Japanese friend, is much disgusted with the +Chinese about the Shantung business--that Japan has promised to return +Shantung, etc., and that Japan can't do it until China gets a stable +government to take care of things, because their present governments are +so weak that China would simply give away her territory to some other +power, and that the Chinese instead of attacking the Japanese ought to +mind their own business and set their own house in order. There is +enough truth in this so that it isn't surprising that so intelligent and +liberal a person as X---- is taken in by it. But what such Japanese as +he cannot realize, because the truth is never told to them, is how +responsible the Japanese government is for fostering a weak and +unrepresentative government here, and what a temptation to it a weak and +divided China will continue to be, for it will serve indefinitely as an +excuse for postponing the return of Shantung--as well as for interfering +elsewhere. Anyone who knows the least thing about not only general +disturbances in China but special causes of friction between China and +Japan, can foresee that there will continue to be a series of plausible +excuses for postponing the return promised--and anyway, as a matter of +fact, what she has actually promised to return compared with the rights +she would keep in her possession amount to little or nothing. Just this +last week there was a clash in Manchuria and fifteen or twenty Japanese +soldiers are reported killed by Chinese--there will always be incidents +of that kind which will have to be settled first. If the other countries +would only surrender their special concessions to the keeping of an +international guarantee, they could force the hand of Japan, but I can't +see Great Britain giving up Hong Kong. On the whole, however, Great +Britain, next to us, and barring the opium business, has been the most +decent of all the great powers in dealing with China. I started out with +a prejudice to the contrary, and have been surprised to learn how little +grabbing England has actually done here. Of course, India is the only +thing she really cares about and her whole policy here is controlled by +that consideration, with such incidental trade advantages as she can +pick up. + + + + +(Later) July 27. + + +I think I wrote a while back about a little kid five years old or so who +walked up the middle aisle at one of my lectures and stood for about +fifteen minutes quite close to me, gazing at me most seriously and also +wholly unembarrassed. Night before last we went to a Chinese restaurant +for dinner, under the guardianship of a friend here. A little boy came +into our coop and began most earnestly addressing me in Chinese. Out +friend found out that he was asking me if I knew his third uncle. He was +the kid of the lecture who had recognized me as the lecturer, and whose +third uncle is now studying at Columbia. If you meet Mr. T---- +congratulate him for me on his third nephew. The boy made us several +calls during the evening, all equally serious and unconstrained. At one +he asked me for my card, which he carefully wrapped up in ceremonial +paper. The restaurant is near a lotus pond and they are now in their +fullest bloom. I won't describe them beyond saying that the lotus is the +lotus and advising you to come out next summer and see them. + + + + +PEKING, August 4. + + +I went to Tientsin to an educational conference for two days last week. +It was called by the Commissioner of this Province for all the +principals of the higher schools to discuss the questions connected with +the opening of the schools in the fall. Most of the heads of schools are +very conservative and were much opposed to the students' strikes, and +also to the students' participation in politics. They are very nervous +and timorous about the opening of the schools, for they think that the +students after engaging in politics all summer won't lend themselves +readily to school discipline--their high schools, etc., are all boarding +schools--and will want to run the schools after having run the +government for several months. The liberal minority, while they want the +students to settle down to school work, think that the students' +experiences will have been of great educational value and that they will +come back with a new social viewpoint, and the teaching ought to be +changed--and also the methods of school discipline--to meet the new +situation. + +I had a wonderful Chinese lunch at a private high school one day there. +The school was started about fifteen years ago in a private house with +six pupils; now they have twenty acres of land, eleven hundred pupils, +and are putting up a first college building to open a freshman class of +a hundred this fall--it's of high school grade now, all Chinese support +and management, and non-missionary or Christian, although the principal +is an active Christian and thinks Christ's teachings the only salvation +for China. The chief patron is a non-English speaking, non-Christian +scholar of the old type--but with modern ideas. The principal said that +when three of them two years ago went around the world on an educational +trip, this old scholar among them, the United States Government gave +them a special secret service detective from New York to San Francisco, +and this man was so impressed with the old Chinese gentleman that he +said: "What kind of education can produce such a man as that, the finest +gentleman I ever saw. You western educated gentlemen are spoiled in +comparison with him." They certainly have the world beat in courtesy of +manners--as much politeness as the Japanese but with much less manner, +so it seems more natural. However, this type is not very common. I asked +the principal what the effect of the missionary teaching was on the +Chinese passivity and non-resistance. He said it differed very much as +between Americans and English and among Americans between the older and +the younger lot. The latter, especially the Y. M. C. A., have given up +the non-interventionalist point of view and take the ground that +Christianity ought to change social conditions. The Y. M. C. A. is, he +says, a group of social workers rather than of missionaries in the +old-fashioned sense--all of which is quite encouraging. Perhaps the +Chinese will be the ones to rejuvenate Christianity by dropping its rot, +wet and dry, and changing it into a social religion. The principal is a +Teachers College man and one of the most influential educators in China. +He speaks largely in picturesque metaphor, and I'm sorry I can't +remember what he said. Among other things, in speaking of the energy of +the Japanese and the inertia of the Chinese, he said the former were +mercury, affected by every change about them, and the latter cotton wool +that the heat didn't warm and cold didn't freeze. He confirmed my +growing idea, however, that the conservatism of the Chinese was much +more intellectual and deliberate, and less mere routine clinging to +custom, than I used to suppose. Consequently, when their ideas do +change, the people will change more thoroughly, more all the way +through, than the Japanese. + +It seems that the present acting Minister of Education was allowed to +take office under three conditions--that he should dissolve the +University, prevent the Chancellor from returning, and dismiss all the +present heads of the higher schools here. He hasn't been able, of +course, to accomplish one, and the Anfu Club is correspondingly sore. He +is said to be a slick politician, and when he has been at dinner with +our liberal friends he tells them how even he is calumniated--people say +that he is a member of the Anfu Club. + +I struck another side of China on my way home from Tientsin. I was +introduced to an ex-Minister of Finance as my traveling companion. He is +a Ph.D. in higher math. from America, and is a most intelligent man. But +his theme of conversation was the need of a scientific investigation of +spirits and spirit possession and divination, etc., in order to decide +scientifically the existence of the soul and an overruling mind. +Incidentally he told a fine lot of Chinese ghost stories. Aside from the +coloring of the tales I don't know that there was anything especially +Chinese about them. He certainly is much more intelligent about it than +some of our American spiritualists. But the ghosts were certainly +Chinese all right--spirit possession mostly. I suppose you know that the +walls that stand in front of the better-to-do Chinese houses are there +to keep spirits out--the spirits can't turn a corner, so when the wall +is squarely in front of the location of the front door the house is +safe. Otherwise they come in and take possession of somebody--if they +aren't comfortable as they are. It seems there is quite a group of +ex-politicians in Tientsin who are much interested in psychical +research. Considering that China is the aboriginal home of ghosts, I +can't see why the western investigators don't start their research here. +These educated Chinese aren't credulous, so there is nothing crude about +their ghost stories. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Typographical errors in English were corrected. Spellings of +non-English words were left as found. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from China and Japan, by +John Dewey and Alice Chipman Dewey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN *** + +***** This file should be named 31043.txt or 31043.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/0/4/31043/ + +Produced by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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