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+ The Project Gutenberg eBook of England Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook.
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: England, Picturesque and Descriptive
+ A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
+
+Author: Joel Cook
+
+Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29787]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;">
+<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a>
+<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="435" height="600" alt="ALTON TOWERS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ALTON TOWERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+ <h1>ENGLAND,<br /><br />
+
+ PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE.</h1>
+
+ <h3>A</h3>
+
+ <h2>REMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVEL.</h2>
+
+ <h3>By JOEL COOK,</h3>
+
+ <h4>AUTHOR OF "A HOLIDAY TOUR IN EUROPE," "BRIEF SUMMER RAMBLES," ETC.</h4>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;">
+<a name="title" id="title"></a>
+<img src="images/title.jpg" width="326" height="450" alt="OLD MILL AT SELBORNE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD MILL AT SELBORNE.</span>
+</div>
+
+ <h4>WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.</h4>
+
+ <p class="center">PHILADELPHIA;
+<br />
+PORTER <span class="smcap">AND</span> COATES.<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>
+
+ Copyright<br />
+ By PORTER &amp; COATES,<br />
+ 1882.<br /><br />
+
+<span class="smcap">Press of Henry B. Ashmead, Philada.</span><br />
+
+<span class="smcap">Electrotyped by Westcott &amp; Thomson, Philada.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+ <h4>TO</h4>
+
+ <h3>JOHN WALTER, Esq.,<br />
+
+ MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR BERKSHIRE,</h3>
+
+ <h4>AND</h4>
+
+ <h3>PROPRIETOR OF THE LONDON TIMES,<br />
+
+ WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO WELCOME AMERICANS<br />
+
+ WITH TRUE ENGLISH HOSPITALITY,</h3>
+
+ <h4>AND TO</h4>
+
+ <h3>GIVE ENGLISHMEN A MORE ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF,<br />
+
+ AND MORE INTIMATE RELATIONS WITH,<br />
+
+ THE UNITED STATES,</h3>
+
+ <h2>This Work on England,</h2>
+
+ <h3>BY AN AMERICAN,<br />
+
+ IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED.</h3>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>No land possesses greater attractions for the American tourist than
+England. It was the home of his forefathers; its history is to a great
+extent the history of his own country; and he is bound to it by the
+powerful ties of consanguinity, language, laws, and customs. When the
+American treads the busy London streets, threads the intricacies of the
+Liverpool docks and shipping, wanders along the green lanes of
+Devonshire, climbs Alnwick's castellated walls, or floats upon the
+placid bosom of the picturesque Wye, he seems almost as much at home as
+in his native land. But, apart from these considerations of common
+Anglo-Saxon paternity, no country in the world is more interesting to
+the intelligent traveller than England. The British system of entail,
+whatever may be our opinion of its political and economic merits, has
+built up vast estates and preserved the stately homes, renowned castles,
+and ivy-clad ruins of ancient and celebrated structures, to an extent
+and variety that no other land can show. The remains of the abbeys,
+castles, churches, and ancient fortresses in England and Wales that war
+and time together have crumbled and scarred tell the history of
+centuries, while countless legends of the olden time are revived as the
+tourist passes them in review. England, too, has other charms than
+these. British scenery, though not always equal in sublimity and
+grandeur to that displayed in many parts of our own country, is
+exceedingly beautiful, and has always been a fruitful theme of song and
+story.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The splendor falls on castle-walls</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And snowy summits old in story:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The long light shakes across the lakes.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And the wild cataract leaps in glory."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Yet there are few satisfactory and comprehensive books about this land<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+that is so full of renowned memorials of the past and so generously
+gifted by Nature. Such books as there are either cover a few counties or
+are devoted only to local description, or else are merely guide-books.
+The present work is believed to be the first attempt to give in
+attractive form a book which will serve not only as a guide to those
+about visiting England and Wales, but also as an agreeable reminiscence
+to others, who will find that its pages treat of familiar scenes. It
+would be impossible to describe everything within the brief compass of a
+single book, but it is believed that nearly all the more prominent
+places in England and Wales are included, with enough of their history
+and legend to make the description interesting. The artist's pencil has
+also been called into requisition, and the four hundred and eighty-seven
+illustrations will give an idea, such as no words can convey, of the
+attractions England presents to the tourist.</p>
+
+<p>The work has been arranged in eight tours, with Liverpool and London as
+the two starting-points, and each route following the lines upon which
+the sightseer generally advances in the respective directions taken.
+Such is probably the most convenient form for the travelling reader, as
+the author has found from experience, while a comprehensive index will
+make reference easy to different localities and persons. Without further
+introduction it is presented to the public, in the confident belief that
+the interest developed in its subject will excuse any shortcomings that
+may be found in its pages.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 2em;">Philadelphia</span>, July, 1882.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">I</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;"> Liverpool&mdash;Birkenhead&mdash;Knowsley Hall&mdash;Chester&mdash;Cheshire&mdash;Eaton Hall&mdash;Hawarden Castle&mdash;Bidston&mdash;Congleton&mdash;Beeston
+ Castle&mdash;The river Dee&mdash;Llangollen&mdash;Valle-Crucis Abbey&mdash;Dinas Bran&mdash;Wynnstay&mdash;Pont
+ Cysylltau&mdash;Chirk Castle&mdash;Bangor-ys-Coed&mdash;Holt&mdash;Wrexham&mdash;The Sands o' Dee&mdash;North Wales&mdash;Flint Castle&mdash;Rhuddlan
+ Castle&mdash;Mold&mdash;Denbigh&mdash;St. Asaph&mdash;Holywell&mdash;Powys Castle&mdash;The Menai Strait&mdash;Anglesea&mdash;Beaumaris
+ Castle&mdash;Bangor&mdash;Penrhyn Castle&mdash;Plas Newydd&mdash;Caernarvon Castle&mdash;Ancient Segontium&mdash;Conway
+ Castle&mdash;Bettws-y-Coed&mdash;Mount Snowdon&mdash;Port Madoc&mdash;Coast of Merioneth&mdash;Barmouth&mdash;St.
+ Patrick's Causeway&mdash;Mawddach Vale&mdash;Cader Idris&mdash;Dolgelly&mdash;Bala Lake&mdash;Aberystwith&mdash;Harlech Castle&mdash;Holyhead</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">II</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Lancashire&mdash;Warrington&mdash;Manchester&mdash;Furness Abbey&mdash;The Ribble&mdash;Stonyhurst&mdash;Lancaster Castle&mdash;Isle of
+ Man&mdash;Castletown&mdash;Rusben Castle&mdash;Peele Castle&mdash;The Lake Country&mdash;Windermere&mdash;Lodore Fall&mdash;Derwentwater&mdash;Keswick&mdash;Greta
+ Hall&mdash;Southey, Wordsworth, and Coleridge&mdash;Skiddaw&mdash;-The Border Castles&mdash;Kendal
+ Castle&mdash;Brougham Hall&mdash;The Solway&mdash;Carlisle Castle&mdash;Scaleby Castle&mdash;Naworth&mdash;Lord William
+ Howard</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">III</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Peak of Derbyshire&mdash;Castleton&mdash;Bess of Hardwicke&mdash;Hardwicke Hall&mdash;Bolsover Castle&mdash;The Wye and
+ the Derwent&mdash;Buxton&mdash;Bakewell&mdash;Haddon Hall&mdash;The King of the Peak&mdash;Dorothy Vernon&mdash;Rowsley&mdash;The
+ Peacock Inn&mdash;Chatsworth&mdash;The Victoria Regia&mdash;Matlock&mdash;Dovedale&mdash;Beauchief Abbey&mdash;Stafford
+ Castle&mdash;Trentham Hall&mdash;Tamworth&mdash;Tutbury Castle&mdash;Chartley Castle&mdash;Alton Towers&mdash;Shrewsbury Castle&mdash;Bridgenorth&mdash;Wenlock
+ Abbey&mdash;Ludlow Castle&mdash;The Feathers Inn&mdash;Lichfield Cathedral&mdash;Dr. Samuel
+ Johnson&mdash;Coventry&mdash;Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom&mdash;Belvoir Castle&mdash;Charnwood Forest&mdash;Groby and Bradgate&mdash;Elizabeth
+ Widvile and Lady Jane Grey&mdash;Ulverscroft Priory&mdash;Grace Dien Abbey&mdash;Ashby de la Zouche&mdash;Langley
+ Priory&mdash;Leicester Abbey and Castle&mdash;Bosworth Field&mdash;Edgehill&mdash;Naseby&mdash;The Land of Shakespeare&mdash;Stratford-on-Avon&mdash;Warwick&mdash;Kenilworth&mdash;Birmingham&mdash;Boulton
+ and Watt&mdash;Fotheringhay Castle&mdash;Holmby
+ House&mdash;Bedford Castle&mdash;John Bunyan&mdash;Woburn Abbey and the Russells&mdash;Stowe&mdash;Whaddon
+ Hall&mdash;Great Hampden&mdash;Creslow House</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_70'>70</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">IV</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Thames Head&mdash;Cotswold Hills&mdash;Seven Springs&mdash;Cirencester&mdash;Cheltenham&mdash;Sudeley Castle&mdash;Chavenage&mdash;Shifford&mdash;Lechlade&mdash;Stanton
+ Harcourt&mdash;Cumnor Hall&mdash;Fair Rosamond&mdash;Godstow Nunnery&mdash;Oxford&mdash;Oxford
+ Colleges&mdash;Christ Church&mdash;Corpus Christi&mdash;Merton&mdash;Oriel&mdash;All Souls&mdash;University&mdash;Queen's&mdash;Magdalen&mdash;Brasenose&mdash;New
+ College&mdash;Radcliffe Library&mdash;Bodleian Library&mdash;Lincoln&mdash;Exeter&mdash;Wadham&mdash;Keble&mdash;Trinity&mdash;Balliol&mdash;St.
+ John's&mdash;Pembroke&mdash;Oxford Churches&mdash;Oxford Castle&mdash;Carfax Conduit&mdash;Banbury&mdash;Broughton
+ Castle&mdash;Woodstock&mdash;Marlborough&mdash;Blenheim&mdash;Minster Lovel&mdash;Bicester&mdash;Eynsham&mdash;Abingdon&mdash;Radley&mdash;Bacon,
+ Rich, and Holt&mdash;Clifton-Hampden&mdash;Caversham&mdash;Reading&mdash;Maidenhead&mdash;Bisham Abbey&mdash;Vicar
+ of Bray&mdash;Eton College&mdash;Windsor Castle&mdash;Magna Charta Island&mdash;Cowey Stakes&mdash;Ditton&mdash;Twickenham&mdash;London&mdash;Fire
+ Monument&mdash;St. Paul's Cathedral&mdash;Westminster Abbey&mdash;The Tower&mdash;Lollards and
+ Lambeth&mdash;Bow Church&mdash;St. Bride's&mdash;Whitehall&mdash;Horse Guards&mdash;St. James Palace&mdash;Buckingham Palace&mdash;Kensington
+ Palace&mdash;Houses of Parliament&mdash;Hyde Park&mdash;Marble Arch&mdash;Albert Memorial&mdash;South Kensington
+ Museum&mdash;Royal Exchange&mdash;Bank of England&mdash;Mansion House&mdash;Inns of Court&mdash;British Museum&mdash;Some
+ London Scenes&mdash;The Underground Railway&mdash;Holland House&mdash;Greenwich&mdash;Tilbury Fort&mdash;The
+ Thames Mouth</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_137'>137</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">V</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Harrow&mdash;St. Albans&mdash;Verulam&mdash;Hatfield House&mdash;Lord Burleigh&mdash;Cassiobury&mdash;Knebworth&mdash;Great Bed of Ware&mdash;The
+ River Cam&mdash;Audley End&mdash;Saffron Walden&mdash;Newport&mdash;Nell Gwynne&mdash;Littlebury&mdash;Winstanley&mdash;Harwich&mdash;Cambridge&mdash;Trinity
+ and St. John's Colleges&mdash;Caius College&mdash;Trinity Hall&mdash;The Senate House&mdash;University
+ Library&mdash;Clare College&mdash;Great St. Mary's Church&mdash;King's College&mdash;Corpus Christi College&mdash;St.
+ Catharine's College&mdash;Queens' College&mdash;The Pitt Press&mdash;Pembroke College&mdash;Peterhouse&mdash;Fitzwilliam Museum&mdash;Hobson's
+ Conduit&mdash;Downing College&mdash;Emmanuel College&mdash;Christ's College&mdash;Sidney-Sussex College&mdash;The
+ Round Church&mdash;Magdalene College&mdash;Jesus College&mdash;Trumpington&mdash;The Fenland&mdash;Bury St. Edmunds&mdash;Hengrave
+ Hall&mdash;Ely&mdash;Peterborough&mdash;Crowland Abbey&mdash;Guthlac&mdash;Norwich Castle and Cathedral&mdash;Stamford&mdash;Burghley
+ House&mdash;George Inn&mdash;Grantham&mdash;Lincoln&mdash;Nottingham&mdash;Southwell&mdash;Sherwood Forest&mdash;Robin
+ Hood&mdash;The Dukeries&mdash;Thoresby Hall&mdash;Clumber Park&mdash;Welbeck Abbey&mdash;Newstead Abbey&mdash;Newark&mdash;Hull&mdash;Wilberforce&mdash;Beverley&mdash;Sheffield&mdash;Wakefield&mdash;Leeds&mdash;Bolton
+ Abbey&mdash;The Strid&mdash;Ripon Cathedral&mdash;Fountains
+ Abbey&mdash;Studley Royal&mdash;Fountains Hall&mdash;York&mdash;Eboracum&mdash;York Minster&mdash;Clifford's
+ Tower&mdash;Castle Howard&mdash;Kirkham Priory&mdash;Flamborough Head&mdash;Scarborough&mdash;Whitby Abbey&mdash;Durham
+ Cathedral and Castle&mdash;St. Cuthbert&mdash;The Venerable Bede&mdash;Battle of Neville's Cross&mdash;Chester-le-Street&mdash;Lumley
+ Castle&mdash;Newcastle-upon-Tyne&mdash;Hexham&mdash;Alnwick Castle&mdash;Hotspur and the Percies&mdash;St. Michael's
+ Church&mdash;Hulne Priory&mdash;Ford Castle&mdash;Flodden Field&mdash;The Tweed&mdash;Berwick&mdash;Holy Isle&mdash;Lindisfarne&mdash;Bamborough&mdash;Grace
+ Darling</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_224'>224</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">VI</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Cotswolds&mdash;The River Severn&mdash;Gloucester&mdash;Berkeley Castle&mdash;New Inn&mdash;Gloucester Cathedral&mdash;Lampreys&mdash;Tewkesbury;
+ its Mustard, Abbey, and Battle&mdash;Worcester; its Battle&mdash;Charles II.'s Escape&mdash;Worcester
+ Cathedral&mdash;The Malvern Hills&mdash;Worcestershire Beacon&mdash;Herefordshire Beacon&mdash;Great Malvern&mdash;St. Anne's
+ Well&mdash;The River Wye&mdash;Clifford Castle&mdash;Hereford&mdash;Old Butcher's Row&mdash;Nell Gwynne's Birthplace&mdash;Ross&mdash;The
+ Man of Ross&mdash;Ross Church and its Trees&mdash;Walton Castle&mdash;Goodrich Castle&mdash;Forest of Dean&mdash;Coldwell&mdash;Symond's
+ Vat&mdash;The Dowards&mdash;Monmouth&mdash;Kymin Hill&mdash;Raglan Castle&mdash;Redbrook&mdash;St. Briard Castle&mdash;Tintern
+ Abbey&mdash;The Wyncliff&mdash;Wyntour's Leap&mdash;Chepstow Castle&mdash;The River Monnow&mdash;The Golden
+ Valley&mdash;The Black Mountains&mdash;Pontrilas Court&mdash;Ewias Harold&mdash;Abbey Dore&mdash;The Scyrrid Vawr&mdash;Wormridge&mdash;Kilpeck&mdash;Oldcastle&mdash;Kentchurch&mdash;Grosmont&mdash;The
+ Vale of Usk&mdash;Abergavenny&mdash;Llanthony Priory&mdash;Walter
+ Savage Landor&mdash;Capel-y-Ffyn&mdash;Newport&mdash;Penarth Roads&mdash;Cardiff&mdash;The Rocking-Stone&mdash;Llandaff&mdash;Caerphilly
+ Castle and its Leaning Tower&mdash;Swansea&mdash;The Mumbles&mdash;Oystermouth Castle&mdash;Neath Abbey&mdash;Caermarthen&mdash;Tenby&mdash;Manorbeer
+ Castle&mdash;Golden Grove&mdash;Pembroke&mdash;Milford&mdash;Haverfordwest&mdash;Milford
+ Haven&mdash;Pictou Castle&mdash;Carew Castle</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_337'>337</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">VII</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Virginia Water&mdash;Sunninghill&mdash;Ascot&mdash;Wokingham&mdash;Bearwood&mdash;The London Times&mdash;White Horse Hill&mdash;Box
+ Tunnel&mdash;Salisbury&mdash;Salisbury Plain&mdash;Old Sarum&mdash;Stonehenge&mdash;Amesbury&mdash;Wilton House&mdash;The Earls of
+ Pembroke&mdash;Carpet-making&mdash;Bath&mdash;William Beckford&mdash;Fonthill&mdash;Bristol&mdash;William Canynge&mdash;Chatterton&mdash;Clifton&mdash;Brandon
+ Hill&mdash;Well&mdash;The Mendips&mdash;Jocelyn&mdash;Beckington&mdash;Ralph of Shrewsbury&mdash;Thomas Ken&mdash;The
+ Cheddar Cliffs&mdash;The Wookey Hole&mdash;The Black Down&mdash;The Isle of Avelon&mdash;Glastonbury&mdash;Weary-all
+ Hill&mdash;Sedgemoor&mdash;The Isle of Athelney&mdash;Bridgewater&mdash;Oldmixon&mdash;Monmouth's Rebellion&mdash;Weston Zoyland&mdash;King
+ Alfred&mdash;Sherborne&mdash;Sir Walter Raleigh&mdash;The Coast of Dorset&mdash;Poole&mdash;Wareham&mdash;Isle of Purbeck&mdash;Corfe
+ Castle&mdash;The Foreland&mdash;Swanage&mdash;St. Aldhelm's Head&mdash;Weymouth&mdash;Portland Isle and Bill&mdash;The
+ Channel Islands&mdash;Jersey&mdash;Corbi&egrave;re Promontory&mdash;Mount Orgueil&mdash;Alderney&mdash;Guernsey&mdash;Castle Comet&mdash;The
+ Southern Coast of Devon&mdash;Abbotsbury&mdash;Lyme Regis&mdash;Axminster&mdash;Sidmouth&mdash;Exmouth&mdash;Exeter&mdash;William,
+ Prince of Orange&mdash;Exeter Cathedral&mdash;Bishop Trelawney&mdash;Dawlish&mdash;Teignmouth&mdash;Hope's Nose&mdash;Babbicombe
+ Bay&mdash;Anstis Cove&mdash;Torbay&mdash;Torquay&mdash;Brixham&mdash;Dartmoor&mdash;The River Dart&mdash;Totnes&mdash;Berry
+ Pomeroy Castle&mdash;Dartmouth&mdash;The River Plym&mdash;The Dewerstone&mdash;Plympton Priory&mdash;Sir Joshua Reynolds&mdash;Catwater
+ Haven&mdash;Plymouth&mdash;Stonehouse&mdash;Devonport&mdash;Eddystone Lighthouse&mdash;Tavistock Abbey&mdash;Buckland
+ Abbey&mdash;Lydford Castle&mdash;The Northern Coast of Devon&mdash;Exmoor&mdash;Minehead&mdash;Dunster&mdash;Dunkery
+ Beacon&mdash;Porlock Bay&mdash;The River Lyn&mdash;Oare&mdash;Lorna Doone&mdash;Jan Ridd&mdash;Lynton&mdash;Lynmouth&mdash;Castle
+ Rock&mdash;The Devil's Cheese-Ring&mdash;Combe Martin&mdash;Ilfracombe&mdash;Norte Point&mdash;Morthoe&mdash;Barnstable&mdash;Bideford&mdash;Clovelly&mdash;Lundy
+ Island&mdash;Cornwall&mdash;Tintagel&mdash;Launceston&mdash;Liskeard&mdash;Fowey&mdash;Lizard Peninsula&mdash;Falmouth&mdash;Pendennis
+ Castle&mdash;Helston&mdash;Mullyon Cove&mdash;Smuggling&mdash;Kynance Cove&mdash;The Post-Office&mdash;Old
+ Lizard Head&mdash;Polpeor&mdash;St. Michael's Mount&mdash;Penzance&mdash;Pilchard Fishery&mdash;Penwith&mdash;Land's End</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_384'>384</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2">VIII</th></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST.</i></th><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Surrey Side&mdash;The Chalk Downs&mdash;Guildford&mdash;The Hog's Back&mdash;Albury Down&mdash;Archbishop Abbot&mdash;St.
+ Catharine's Chapel&mdash;St. Martha's Chapel&mdash;Albury Park&mdash;John Evelyn&mdash;Henry Drummond&mdash;Aldershot
+ Camp&mdash;Leith Hill&mdash;Redland's Wood&mdash;Holmwood Park&mdash;Dorking&mdash;Weller and the Marquis of Granby Inn&mdash;Deepdene&mdash;Betchworth
+ Castle&mdash;The River Mole&mdash;Boxhill&mdash;The Fox and Hounds&mdash;The Denbies&mdash;Ranmore
+ Common&mdash;Battle of Dorking&mdash;Wotton Church&mdash;Epsom&mdash;Reigate&mdash;Pierrepoint House&mdash;Longfield&mdash;The
+ Weald of Kent&mdash;Goudhurst&mdash;Bedgebury Park&mdash;Kilndown&mdash;Cranbrook&mdash;Bloody Baker's Prison&mdash;Sissinghurst&mdash;Bayham
+ Abbey&mdash;Tunbridge Castle&mdash;Tunbridge Wells&mdash;Penshurst&mdash;Sir Philip Sidney&mdash;Hever
+ Castle&mdash;Anne Boleyn&mdash;Knole&mdash;Leeds Castle&mdash;Tenterden Steeple and the Goodwin Sands&mdash;Rochester&mdash;Gad's
+ Hill&mdash;Chatham&mdash;Canterbury Cathedral&mdash;St. Thomas &agrave; Becket&mdash;Falstaff Inn&mdash;Isle of Thanet&mdash;Ramsgate&mdash;Margate&mdash;North
+ Foreland&mdash;The Cinque Ports&mdash;Sandwich&mdash;Rutupi&aelig;&mdash;Ebbsfleet&mdash;Goodwin Sands&mdash;Walmer
+ Castle&mdash;South Foreland&mdash;Dover&mdash;Shakespeare's Cliff&mdash;Folkestone&mdash;Hythe&mdash;Romney&mdash;Dungeness&mdash;Rye&mdash;Winchelsea&mdash;Hastings&mdash;Pevensey&mdash;Hailsham&mdash;Hurstmonceux
+ Castle&mdash;Beachy Head&mdash;Brighton&mdash;The
+ Aquarium&mdash;The South Downs&mdash;Dichling Beacon&mdash;Newhaven&mdash;Steyning&mdash;Wiston Manor&mdash;Chanctonbury
+ Ring&mdash;Arundel Castle&mdash;Chichester&mdash;Selsey Bill&mdash;Goodwood&mdash;Bignor&mdash;Midhurst&mdash;Cowdray&mdash;Dunford
+ House&mdash;Selborne&mdash;Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and church&mdash;Greatham Church&mdash;Winchester&mdash;The
+ New Forest&mdash;Lyndhurst&mdash;Minstead Manor&mdash;Castle Malwood&mdash;Death of William Rufus&mdash;Rufus's
+ Stone&mdash;Beaulieu Abbey&mdash;Brockenhurst&mdash;Ringwood&mdash;Lydington&mdash;Christchurch&mdash;Southampton&mdash;Netley
+ Abbey&mdash;Calshot Castle&mdash;The Solent&mdash;Portsea Island&mdash;Portsmouth&mdash;Gosport&mdash;Spithead&mdash;The Isle of
+ Wight&mdash;High Down&mdash;Alum Bay&mdash;Yarmouth&mdash;Cowes&mdash;Osborne House&mdash;Ryde&mdash;Bratling&mdash;Sandown&mdash;Shanklin
+ Chine&mdash;Bonchurch&mdash;The Undercliff&mdash;Ventnor&mdash;Niton&mdash;St. Lawrence Church&mdash;St. Catharine's Down&mdash;Blackgang
+ Chine&mdash;Carisbrooke Castle&mdash;Newport&mdash;Freshwater&mdash;Brixton&mdash;The Needles</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_463'>463</a></td></tr>
+
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 565px;">
+<img src="images/p010.jpg" width="565" height="600" alt="MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH.</span></div>
+
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="80%" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS">
+<tr><td align='left'>Alton Towers</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><i>Frontispiece.</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Old Mill, Selborne</td><td align='right'><a href='#title'><i>Title-Page.</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Market-place, Peterborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'><i>After Contents.</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Pottergate, Alnwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Perch Rock Light</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. George's Hall, Liverpool</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_19'>19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chester Cathedral, Exterior</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chester Cathedral, Interior</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Julius C&aelig;sar's Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ancient Front, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>God's Providence House, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-1'>23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-1'>23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Lamb Row, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-3'>23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stanley House, Front, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stanley House, Rear, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p024-2'>24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ph&oelig;nix Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p025-1'>25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Water Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p025-1'>25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Abbey Gale, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of St. John's Chapel, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Plas Newydd, Llangollen</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_28'>28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p029'>29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wynnstay</td><td align='right'><a href='#p030-1'>30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pont Cysylltau</td><td align='right'><a href='#p030-2'>30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wrexham Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p031'>31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Roodee, from the Railway-bridge, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p032'>32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The "Sands o' Dee"</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Menai Strait</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_36'>36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Beaumaris Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bangor Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Caernarvon Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p039'>39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Conway Castle, from the Road to Llanrwst</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Falls of the Conway</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'>41</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Swallow Falls</td><td align='right'><a href='#p042'>42</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Llanrwst Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_43'>43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Barmouth</td><td align='right'><a href='#p044'>44</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Barmouth Estuary</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cader Idris, on the Taly-slyn Ascent</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'>46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rhayadr-y-Mawddach</td><td align='right'><a href='#p046'>46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_47'>47</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Owen Glendower's Parliament House, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#p047'>47</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lower Bridge, Torrent Walk, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bala Lake</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aberystwith</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_49'>49</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Harlech Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_50'>50</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Market, Warrington</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Manchester Cathedral, from the South-east</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_53'>53</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Assize Courts, Manchester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Royal Exchange, Manchester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Furness Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_56'>56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Square, Lancaster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p058'>58</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bradda Head, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kirk Bradden, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rhenass Waterfall, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_60'>60</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Rushen, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_61'>61</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Peele Castle, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#p063'>63</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Glimpse of Derwentwater, from Scafell</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Falls of Lodore, Derwentwater</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Road through the Cathedral Close, Carlisle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>View on the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_69'>69</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Peveril Castle, Castleton</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_71'>71</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hardwicke Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hardwicke Hall, Elizabethan Staircase</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bolsover Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_74'>74</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Crescent, Buxton</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_75'>75</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bakewell Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'>76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, from the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_77'>77</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, Entrance to Banquet-hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'>78</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, the Terrace</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_79'>79</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Peacock Inn from the Road</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, from the South-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p081-2'>81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, Door to State Drawing-room</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_82'>82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, State Drawing-room</td><td align='right'><a href='#p082-2'>82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, State Bedroom</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, the Sculpture-gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_84'>84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, Gateway to Stable</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_85'>85</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>High Tor, Matlock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p085-2'>85</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Straits, Dovedale</td><td align='right'><a href='#p086-1'>86</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Banks of the Dove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p086-2'>86</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tissington Spires, Dovedale</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_87'>87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Trentham Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p089'>89</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Trentham Hall&mdash;on the Terrace</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_90'>90</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Shrewsbury Castle, from the Railway-station</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_93'>93</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Head-quarters of Henry VII. on his Way to Bosworth Field, Shrewsbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_94'>94</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p094-2'>94</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, from near Oldbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, Keep of the Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, House where Bishop Percy was born</td><td align='right'><a href='#p0961'>96</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lodge of Much Wenlock Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p0961'>96</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wenlock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p097'>97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ludlow Castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p098'>98</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ludlow Castle, Entrance to the Council-chamber</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p101'>101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, Interior, looking West</td><td align='right'><a href='#p102'>101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, Rear View</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1022'>102</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dr. Johnson's Birthplace, Lichfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p103'>103</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coventry Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_105'>105</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coventry</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_106'>106</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Bradgate House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p108'>108</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Ulverscroft Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_109'>109</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Grace Dieu Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_110'>110</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Leicester Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p111'>111</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Newgate Street, Leicester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p112'>112</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Edgehill</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_113'>113</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Edgehill, Mill at</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_115'>115</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Church and Market-hall, Market Harborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#p117'>117</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Shakespeare's House, Stratford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_118'>118</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p119'>119</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Warwick Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_120'>120</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Leicester's Hospital, Warwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1221'>122</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oblique Gables in Warwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1222'>122</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kenilworth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_123'>123</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Martin's Church, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p124'>124</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aston Hall, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p125'>125</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aston Hall, the "Gallery of the Presence"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p126'>126</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Town-hall, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_127'>127</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Elstow, Bedford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p130'>130</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Elstow Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_130'>130</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Elstow Church, North Door</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_131'>131</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_132'>132</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, the Sculpture-gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_133'>133</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, Entrance to the Puzzle garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p134'>134</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Thames Head</td><td align='right'><a href='#p138'>138</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dovecote, Stanton Harcourt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p140'>140</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cumnor Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_141'>141</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Godstow Nunnery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p142'>142</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Oxford, from the Cherwell</td><td align='right'><a href='#p143'>143</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Stone Pulpit</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-1'>144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Bow Window</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-1'>144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gable at St. Aldate's College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-3'>144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dormer Window, Merton College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-3'>144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gateway of Christ Church College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_145'>145</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Merton College Chapel, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p146'>146</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Merton College Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p146-2'>146</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oriel College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p147'>147</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College Cloisters, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p148'>148</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Founders' Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p149'>149</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College</td><td align='right'><a href='#p150'>150</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New College, Oxford, from the Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_151'>151</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New College</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-1'>152</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Radcliffe Library, from the Quadrangle of Brasenose, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-2'>152</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dining-hall, Exeter College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-1'>153</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Trinity College Chapel, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p153-2'>153</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Window in St. John's College, Garden Front, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p154-1'>154</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tower St. John's College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p154-1'>154</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Mary the Virgin, from High Street, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_155'>155</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>All Saints, from High Street, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carfax Conduit</td><td align='right'><a href='#p157-1'>157</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Iffley Mill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p157-2'>157</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Iffley Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p158'>158</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cromwell's Parliament-house, Banbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_159'>159</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Berks and Wilts Canal</td><td align='right'><a href='#p160'>160</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chaucer's House, Woodstock</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_161'>161</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Remains at Woodstock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p162'>162</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Blenheim Palace, from the Lake</td><td align='right'><a href='#p163'>163</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bicester Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p165'>165</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bicester Market</td><td align='right'><a href='#p166-1'>166</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cross at Eynsham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p166'>166</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to Abingdon Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p167'>167</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Radley Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p168'>168</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Thames at Clifton-Hampden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p170'>170</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bray Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p171'>171</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Eton College, from the Playing Fields</td><td align='right'><a href='#p173'>173</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Eton College, from the Cricket-ground</td><td align='right'><a href='#p173'>173</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, from the Brocas</td><td align='right'><a href='#p174-1'>174</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle Round Tower, West End</td><td align='right'><a href='#p175'>175</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, Queen's Rooms in South-east Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p176'>176</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, Interior of St. George's Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#p177'>177</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Magna Charta Island</td><td align='right'><a href='#p178'>178</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Monument, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p180'>180</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p182'>182</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, South Side</td><td align='right'><a href='#p183-1'>183</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, the Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p183-1'>183</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, Wellington Monument</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_184'>184</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p185'>185</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, Cloisters of</td><td align='right'><a href='#p186'>186</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, Interior of Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p187'>187</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, King Henry VII.'s Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_188'>188</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Tower of London, Views in</td><td align='right'><a href='#p191'>191</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Church of St. Peter, on Tower Green</td><td align='right'><a href='#p193'>193</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_194'>194</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Mary-le-Bow, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p195-1'>195</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Bride's, Fleet Street, London.</td><td align='right'><a href='#p195-1'>195</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chapel Royal, Whitehall, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_196'>196</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chapel Royal, Interior of (Banqueting-hall)</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_197'>197</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Horse Guards, from the Parade-ground, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p198'>198</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gateway of St. James Palace, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_199'>199</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Buckingham Palace, Garden Front, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_200'>200</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kensington Palace, West Front, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p201'>201</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p203'>203</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Interior of the House of Commons</td><td align='right'><a href='#p204'>204</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London Principal Entrance New Museum of Natural History,</td><td align='right'><a href='#p205'>205</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p206'>206</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>South Kensington, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p207'>207</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Royal Exchange, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p208-1'>208</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bank of England, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p208-2'>208</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mansion House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p209'>209</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Law Courts, London<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p210'>210</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sir Paul Finder's House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p211'>211</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Waterloo Bridge, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p212'>212</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Schomberg House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p213-1'>213</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Statue of Sidney Herbert, Pall Mall, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p213-2'>213</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Doorway, Beaconsfield Club, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p214-1'>214</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cavendish Square, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p214-2'>214</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The "Bell Inn" at Edmonton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p215'>215</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The "Old Tabard Inn," London.</td><td align='right'><a href='#p216'>216</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, South Side</td><td align='right'><a href='#p217'>217</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, Dining-Room</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_218'>218</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, the Dutch Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p218-2'>218</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, the Library</td><td align='right'><a href='#p219-1'>219</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, Rogers's Seat in the Dutch Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p219-2'>219</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Greenwich Hospital, from the River</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_221'>221</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>London, from Greenwich Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_222'>222</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Albans, from Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p225'>225</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Wall at Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p226-1'>226</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Monastery Gate, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p226-2'>226</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Tower of the Abbey, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p227-1'>227</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Staircase to Watching Gallery, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p227-1'>227</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Shrine and Watching Gallery, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p228'>228</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clock Tower, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p229-1'>229</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Barnard's Heath</td><td align='right'><a href='#p229-2'>229</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Michael's, Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p230'>230</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Queen Elizabeth's Oak, Hatfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p231'>231</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hatfield House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p232'>232</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hatfield House, the Corridor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p233'>233</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>View through Old Gateway, Hatfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p234'>234</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Audley End, Western Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p235'>235</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Views in Saffron Walden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p237'>237</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Town-hall.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Church.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Entrance to the Town.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jetties at Harwich</td><td align='right'><a href='#p238'>238</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bridge, St. John's College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p239'>239</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hall of Trinity College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p241'>241</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. John's Chapel, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p242'>242</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Back of Clare College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p244'>244</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>King's College Chapel&mdash;Interior&mdash;Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p245'>245</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>King's College Chapel, Doorway of</td><td align='right'><a href='#p246'>246</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Scenes in Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p247'>247</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Senate House.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Pitt Press.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Great St. Mary's.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Fitzwilliam Museum.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Round Church.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Jesus College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p249'>249</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hengrave Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p250-1'>250</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Road leading to Ely Close</td><td align='right'><a href='#p250-2'>250</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ely Cathedral, from the Railway Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p251'>251</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Bits in Ely</td><td align='right'><a href='#p252'>252</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Passage from Ely Street to Cathedral Ford.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Entrance to Prior Crawdon's Chapel.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Old Houses In High Street.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Peterborough Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p253'>253</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Peterborough Cathedral, Aisle and Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p254'>254</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>East End of Crowland Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p255'>255</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p257'>257</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p258'>258</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Cathedral&mdash;the Choir, looking East</td><td align='right'><a href='#p259'>259</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Market-place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p260'>260</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Burghley House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p261'>261</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lincoln Cathedral, from the South-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p264'>264</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Bits" from Lincoln</td><td align='right'><a href='#p265'>265</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Cloisters</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Angel Choir.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The High Bridge.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nottingham Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p267'>267</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Southwell Minster and Ruins of the Archbishop's Palace</td><td align='right'><a href='#p268'>268</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Southwell Minster, the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p269'>269</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clumber Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p271'>271</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Welbeck Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p272'>272</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newark Castle, Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p274'>274</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newark Castle and Dungeon</td><td align='right'><a href='#p275'>275</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newark Market-square</td><td align='right'><a href='#p276-1'>276</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newark Church, looking from the North</td><td align='right'><a href='#p276-2'>276</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Humber at Hull</td><td align='right'><a href='#p277'>277</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>House where Wilberforce was born, Hull</td><td align='right'><a href='#p278-1'>278</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Beverley, Entrance-Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p278-2'>278</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Beverley, Market-square</td><td align='right'><a href='#p279'>279</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Manor House, Sheffield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p280'>280</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to the Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p281'>281</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p282'>282</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wakefield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p283'>283</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Briggate, Leeds, looking North</td><td align='right'><a href='#p283'>283</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. John's Church, Leeds</td><td align='right'><a href='#p284'>284</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bolton Abbey, Gateway in the Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p286-1'>286</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bolton Abbey, the Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p286-2'>286</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Strid</td><td align='right'><a href='#p287'>287</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ripon Minster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p288'>288</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Studley Royal Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p289'>289</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Abbey, the Transept</td><td align='right'><a href='#p290'>290</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Abbey, Tower and Crypt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p291'>291</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p292'>292</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Richmond Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p293'>293</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Multangular Tower and Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p294'>294</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Micklegate Bar and the Red Tower, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p297'>297</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>York Minster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p298'>298</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>York Minster, the Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p299'>299</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>York Minster, Tomb of Archbishop DeGrey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p300'>300</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clifford's Tower, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p301'>301</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Shambles, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p302'>302</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, South Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p303'>303</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, the Obelisk</td><td align='right'><a href='#p304'>304</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, the Temple, with the Mausoleum in the distance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p305'>305</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Kirkham Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p306'>306</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Scarborough Spa and Esplanade</td><td align='right'><a href='#p308'>308</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Scarborough, from the Sea</td><td align='right'><a href='#p309'>309</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Whitby Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p311'>311</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham, General View of the Cathedral and Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p312'>312</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham Castle, Norman Doorway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p313'>313</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, from an old Homestead on the Wear</td><td align='right'><a href='#p315'>315</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p316'>316</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Choir, looking West</td><td align='right'><a href='#p317'>317</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Galilee and Tomb of Bede</td><td align='right'><a href='#p318'>318</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lumley Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p320'>320</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lumley Castle, Gateway from the Walk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p321'>321</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hexham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p322'>322</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, from the Lion bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p323-1'>323</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p323-2'>323</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican</td><td align='right'><a href='#p324'>324</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican, Eastern Angle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p325'>325</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Percy Bedstead</td><td align='right'><a href='#p326-2'>326</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Percy Cross</td><td align='right'><a href='#p326-2'>326</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Constable's Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p327'>327</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Earl Hugh's Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p328'>328</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Draw-Well and Norman Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p329-1'>329</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Gravestone in the Churchyard of St. Michael's and All Angels</td><td align='right'><a href='#p329-2'>329</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Font Lectern, St. Michael's Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p330-1'>330</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hulne Priory, Porter's Lodge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p330-2'>330</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ford Tower, overlooking Flodden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p331'>331</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Cheviots, from Ford Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p332'>332</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Flodden, from the King's Bedchamber, Ford Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p333'>333</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ford Castle, the Crypt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p335'>335</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Grace Darling's Monument, Bamborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#p336'>336</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester Cathedral, from the South-east</td><td align='right'><a href='#p338'>338</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester, the New Inn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p340'>340</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester Cathedral, the Monks' Lavatory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p342'>342</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p343'>343</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p344'>344</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury Abbey, Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p345'>345</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Worcester Cathedral, from the Severn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p346'>346</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Worcester Cathedral, Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p348'>348</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of the Guesten Hall, Worcester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p349'>349</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Close in Worcester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p350'>350</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Anne's Well, Malvern</td><td align='right'><a href='#p352'>352</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Butchers' Row, Hereford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p353-1'>353</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Out-house where Nell Gwynne was born, Hereford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p353-2'>353</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hereford Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p354'>354</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hereford Cathedral, Old Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p355'>355</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>Ross, House of the "Man of Ross"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p356'>356</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ross Market-place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p357'>357</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ross Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p358-1'>358</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ross Church, the Tree, in</td><td align='right'><a href='#p358-2'>358</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Goodrich Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p359'>359</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bend in the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#p360'>360</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Symond's Yat, the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#p361'>361</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Monmouth Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p363-1'>363</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Monmouth Bridge, Gate on</td><td align='right'><a href='#p363-2'>363</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Raglan Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p364'>364</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tintern Abbey, from the Highroad</td><td align='right'><a href='#p365'>365</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chepstow Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p368'>368</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pontrilas Court</td><td align='right'><a href='#p370'>370</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Scyrrid Vawr</td><td align='right'><a href='#p371'>371</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Llanthony Priory, looking down the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p373'>373</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Llanthony Priory, the South Transept</td><td align='right'><a href='#p374'>374</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Swansea, North Dock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p377'>377</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Swansea Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p378'>378</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Mumbles</td><td align='right'><a href='#p379'>379</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oystermouth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p380'>380</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Neath Abbey, ruins</td><td align='right'><a href='#p381'>381</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bearwood, Berkshire, Residence of John Walter, Esq., proprietor of <i>London Times</i></td><td align='right'><a href='#p385'>385</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Salisbury Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p387'>387</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Salisbury Market</td><td align='right'><a href='#p388'>388</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stonehenge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p390'>390</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p392'>392</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, Fireplace in Double Cube Room</td><td align='right'><a href='#p393-1'>393</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, the Library</td><td align='right'><a href='#p393-2'>393</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, the Library Window</td><td align='right'><a href='#p394'>394</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bristol Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p398'>398</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Norman Doorway, College Green, Bristol</td><td align='right'><a href='#p399'>399</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol</td><td align='right'><a href='#p400'>400</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, from the Bishop's Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p401'>401</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, from the Swan Pool</td><td align='right'><a href='#p402'>402</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, View under Central Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p403'>403</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wells, Ruins of the Old Banquet-Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p404'>404</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to the Cheddar Cliffs, Wells</td><td align='right'><a href='#p405'>405</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>High Rocks at Cheddar, Wells</td><td align='right'><a href='#p406'>406</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Glastonbury Tribunal</td><td align='right'><a href='#p408'>408</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sedgemoor, from Cock Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p409'>409</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Weston Zoyland Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p410'>410</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Isle of Athelney</td><td align='right'><a href='#p412'>412</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sherbourne</td><td align='right'><a href='#p413'>413</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Corfe Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p416'>416</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Studland Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p418'>418</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Old Cross in the Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p418'>418</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Aldhelm's Head</td><td align='right'><a href='#p419'>419</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Portland Isle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p420'>420</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Corbi&egrave;re Lighthouse, Jersey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p422'>422</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>View from Devil's Hole, Jersey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p423'>423</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p425'>425</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Ruins of Rougemont Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p426-1'>426</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Old Houses in Cathedral Close</td><td align='right'><a href='#p426-2'>426</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, from the North-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p427'>427</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, Bishop's Throne</td><td align='right'><a href='#p428'>428</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, Minstrel Gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p429-1'>429</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Guildhall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p429-2'>429</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Babbicombe Bay</td><td align='right'><a href='#p430'>430</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Austis Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p431'>431</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Totnes, from the river</td><td align='right'><a href='#p432'>432</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Berry Pomeroy Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p433'>433</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A Bend of the Dart</td><td align='right'><a href='#p434-1'>434</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dartmouth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p434-2'>434</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Dewerstone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p435'>435</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Vale of Bickleigh</td><td align='right'><a href='#p436'>436</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Plympton Priory, Old Doorway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p437'>437</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Minehead</td><td align='right'><a href='#p440'>440</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dunster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p441'>441</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>On Porlock Moor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p442'>442</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Doone Valley</td><td align='right'><a href='#p443'>443</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bagworthy Water</td><td align='right'><a href='#p444-1'>444</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jan Ridd's Tree</td><td align='right'><a href='#p444-2'>444</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>View on the East Lyn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p445-1'>445</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Castle Rock, Lynton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p445-2'>445</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p446-1'>446</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tower on Beach, Lynmouth</td><td align='right'><a href='#p446-2'>447</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ilfracombe</td><td align='right'><a href='#p447'>447</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Morte Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p449'>449</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bideford Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p450-1'>450</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clovelly, Main Street</td><td align='right'><a href='#p450-2'>450</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clovelly, Old Houses on Beach</td><td align='right'><a href='#p451'>451</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fowey Pier</td><td align='right'><a href='#p452'>452</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pendennis Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p454'>454</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mullyon Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p455'>455</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lion Rock, with Mullyon in the distance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p456-1'>456</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cave at Mullyon</td><td align='right'><a href='#p456-2'>456</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pradenack Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p457-1'>457</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kynance Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p457-2'>457</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Post-Office, Kynance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p458'>458</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Polpeor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p459-1'>459</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rocks near the Lizard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p459-2'>459</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Michael's Mount</td><td align='right'><a href='#p460'>460</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Market, Penzance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p461'>461</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Land's End</td><td align='right'><a href='#p462'>462</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>High Street, Guildford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p464'>464</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#p466'>466</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Leith Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p467'>467</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Old Dovecote, Holmwood Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p468'>468</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>White Horse Inn, Dorking</td><td align='right'><a href='#p469'>469</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pierrepoint House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p472'>472</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Longfield, East Sheen</td><td align='right'><a href='#p473'>473</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Sissinghurst</td><td align='right'><a href='#p475'>475</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tunbridge Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p476-1'>476</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Penshurst Place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p476-2'>476</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Penshurst Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p477'>477</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hever Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p478-1'>478</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Leeds Castle, Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p478-2'>478</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rochester Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p480'>480</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canterbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p481'>481</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canterbury, Falstaff Inn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p483'>483</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sandwich, the Barbican</td><td align='right'><a href='#p485'>485</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dover Castle, the Pharos</td><td align='right'><a href='#p487-1'>487</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dover Cattle, Saluting-Battery Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p487-2'>487</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rye, Old Houses</td><td align='right'><a href='#p488'>488</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hurstmonceux Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p490'>490</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Arundel Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p494-1'>494</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Cowdray</td><td align='right'><a href='#p494-2'>494</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Gilbert White's House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p495'>495</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Gilbert White's Sun-Dial</td><td align='right'><a href='#p496-1'>496</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selborne Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p496-2'>496</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Rocky Lane to Alton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p497'>497</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Wishing-Stone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p498'>498</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Greatham Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p499'>499</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Winchester, Cardinal Beaufort's Gate and Brewery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p500'>500</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, from Bramble Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p502'>502</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, Rufus's Stone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p503'>503</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, Brockenhurst Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p505'>505</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch, the Priory from the Quay and Place Mills</td><td align='right'><a href='#p506'>506</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch</td><td align='right'><a href='#p507'>507</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch, Old Norman House and View from Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p508'>508</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Portsmouth Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p510'>510</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Portsmouth, H.M.S. "Victory"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p511'>511</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cowes Harbor, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p512'>512</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Needles, from Alum Bay, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p513-1'>513</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Yarmouth, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p513-2'>513</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Osborne House, from the Sea, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p514'>514</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p516'>516</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Undercliff, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p517'>517</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carisbrooke Castle, looking from Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p519'>519</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tennyson's House, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p521'>521</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Needles, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p522'>522</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;">
+<img src="images/p016.jpg" width="381" height="600" alt="THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><br /><br /><a name="England_Picturesque_and_Descriptive" id="England_Picturesque_and_Descriptive"></a><span class="smcap">England, Picturesque and Descriptive.</span><br /><br /></h2>
+
+<h3>I.</h3>
+
+<h3>LIVERPOOL WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Liverpool&mdash;Birkenhead&mdash;Knowsley Hall&mdash;Chester&mdash;Cheshire&mdash;Eaton
+Hall&mdash;Hawarden Castle&mdash;Bidston&mdash;Congleton&mdash;Beeston Castle&mdash;The
+river Dee&mdash;Llangollen&mdash;Valle-Crucis Abbey&mdash;Dinas
+Bran&mdash;Wynnstay&mdash;Pont Cysylltau&mdash;Chirk
+Castle&mdash;Bangor-ys-Coed&mdash;Holt&mdash;Wrexham&mdash;The Sands o' Dee&mdash;North
+Wales&mdash;Flint Castle&mdash;Rhuddlan Castle&mdash;Mold&mdash;Denbigh&mdash;St.
+Asaph&mdash;Holywell&mdash;Powys Castle&mdash;The Menai
+Strait&mdash;Anglesea&mdash;Beaumaris Castle&mdash;Bangor&mdash;Penrhyn Castle&mdash;Plas
+Newydd&mdash;Caernarvon Castle&mdash;Ancient Segontium&mdash;Conway
+Castle&mdash;Bettws-y-Coed&mdash;Mount Snowdon&mdash;Port Madoc&mdash;Coast of
+Merioneth&mdash;Barmouth&mdash;St. Patrick's Causeway&mdash;Mawddach Vale&mdash;Cader
+Idris&mdash;Dolgelly&mdash;Bala Lake&mdash;Aberystwith&mdash;Harlech Castle&mdash;Holyhead.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>LIVERPOOL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p017.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The American transatlantic tourist, after a week or more spent upon the
+ocean, is usually glad to again see the land. After skirting the bold
+Irish coast, and peeping into the pretty cove of Cork, with Queenstown
+in the background, and passing the rocky headlands of Wales, the steamer
+that brings him from America carefully enters the Mersey River. The
+shores are low but picturesque as the tourist moves along the estuary
+between the coasts of Lancashire and Cheshire, and passes the great
+beacon standing up solitary and alone amid the waste of waters, the
+Perch Rock Light off New Brighton on the Cheshire side. Thus he comes to
+the world's greatest seaport&mdash;Liverpool&mdash;and the steamer finally drops
+her anchor between the miles of docks that front the two cities,
+Liverpool on the left and Birkenhead on the right. Forests of masts loom
+up behind the great dock-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>walls, stretching far away on either bank,
+while a fleet of arriving or departing steamers is anchored in a long
+line in mid-channel. Odd-looking, low, black tugs, pouring out thick
+smoke from double funnels, move over the water, and one of them takes
+the passengers alongside the capacious structure a half mile long, built
+on pontoons, so it can rise and fall with the tides, and known as the
+Prince's Landing-Stage, where the customs officers perform their brief
+formalities and quickly let the visitor go ashore over the fine floating
+bridge into the city.</p>
+
+<p>At Liverpool most American travellers begin their view of England. It is
+the great city of ships and sailors and all that appertains to the sea,
+and its 550,000 population are mainly employed in mercantile life and
+the myriad trades that serve the ship or deal in its cargo, for fifteen
+thousand to twenty thousand of the largest vessels of modern commerce
+will enter the Liverpool docks in a year, and its merchants own
+7,000,000 tonnage. Fronting these docks on the Liverpool side of the
+Mersey is the great sea-wall, over five miles long, behind which are
+enclosed 400 acres of water-surface in the various docks, that are
+bordered by sixteen miles' length of quays. On the Birkenhead side of
+the river there are ten miles of quays in the docks that extend for over
+two miles along the bank. These docks, which are made necessary to
+accommodate the enormous commerce, have cost over $50,000,000, and are
+the crowning glory of Liverpool. They are filled with the ships of all
+nations, and huge storehouses line the quays, containing products from
+all parts of the globe, yet chiefly the grain and cotton, provisions,
+tobacco, and lumber of America. Railways run along the inner border of
+the docks on a street between them and the town, and along their tracks
+horses draw the freight-cars, while double-decked passenger-cars also
+run upon them with broad wheels fitting the rails, yet capable of being
+run off whenever the driver wishes to get ahead of the slowly-moving
+freight-cars. Ordinary wagons move upon Strand street alongside, with
+horses of the largest size drawing them, the huge growth of the
+Liverpool horses being commensurate with the immense trucks and vans to
+which these magnificent animals are harnessed.</p>
+
+<p>Liverpool is of great antiquity, but in the time of William the
+Conqueror was only a fishing-village. Liverpool Castle, long since
+demolished, was a fortress eight hundred years ago, and afterward the
+rival families of Molineux and Stanley contended for the mastery of the
+place. It was a town of slow growth, however, and did not attain full
+civic dignity till the time of Charles I. It was within two hundred
+years that it became a seaport of any note. The first dock was opened in
+1699, and strangely enough it was the African slave-trade that gave the
+Liverpool merchants their original start. The port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> sent out its first
+slave-ship in 1709, and in 1753 had eighty-eight ships engaged in the
+slave-trade, which carried over twenty-five thousand slaves from Africa
+to the New World that year. Slave-auctions were frequent in Liverpool,
+and one of the streets where these sales were effected was nicknamed
+"Negro street." The agitation for the abolition of the trade was carried
+on a long time before Liverpool submitted, and then privateering came
+prominently out as the lucrative business a hundred years ago during the
+French wars, that brought Liverpool great wealth. Next followed the
+development of trade with the East Indies, and finally the trade with
+America has grown to such enormous proportions in the present century as
+to eclipse all other special branches of Liverpool commerce, large as
+some of them are. This has made many princely fortunes for the merchants
+and shipowners, and their wealth has been liberally expended in
+beautifying their city. It has in recent years had very rapid growth,
+and has greatly increased its architectural adornments. Most amazing has
+been this advancement since the time in the last century when the mayor
+and corporation entertained Prince William of Gloucester at dinner, and,
+pleased at the appetite he developed, one of them called out, "Eat away,
+Your Royal Highness; there's plenty more in the kitchen!" The mayor was
+Jonas Bold, and afterwards, taking the prince to church, they were
+astonished to find that the preacher had taken for his text the words,
+"Behold, a greater than Jonas is here."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p019.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="ST. GEORGE&#39;S HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. GEORGE&#39;S HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Liverpool has several fine buildings. Its Custom House is a large Ionic
+structure of chaste design, with a tall dome that can be seen from afar,
+and richly decorated within. The Town Hall and the Exchange buildings
+make up the four sides of an enclosed quadrangle paved with broad
+flagstones. Here, around the attractive Nelson monument in the centre,
+the merchants meet and transact their business. The chief public
+building is St. George's Hall, an imposing edifice, surrounded with
+columns and raised high above one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> side of an open square, and costing
+$2,000,000 to build. It is a Corinthian building, having at one end the
+Great Hall, one hundred and sixty-nine feet long, where public meetings
+are held, and court-rooms at the other end. Statues of Robert Peel,
+Gladstone, and Stephenson, with other great men, adorn the Hall. Sir
+William Brown, who amassed a princely fortune in Liverpool, has
+presented the city with a splendid free library and museum, which stands
+in a magnificent position on Shaw's Brow. Many of the streets are lined
+with stately edifices, public and private, and most of these avenues
+diverge from the square fronting St. George's Hall, opposite which is
+the fine station of the London and North-western Railway, which, as is
+the railroad custom in England, is also a large hotel. The suburbs of
+Liverpool are filled for a wide circuit with elegant rural homes and
+surrounding ornamental grounds, where the opulent merchants live. They
+are generally bordered with high stone walls, interfering with the view,
+and impressing the visitor strongly with the idea that an Englishman's
+house is his castle. Several pretty parks with ornamental lakes among
+their hills are also in the suburbs. Yet it is the vast trade that is
+the glory of Liverpool, for it is but an epitome of England's commercial
+greatness, and is of comparatively modern growth. "All this," not long
+ago said Lord Erskine, speaking of the rapid advancement of Liverpool,
+"has been created by the industry and well-disciplined management of a
+handful of men since I was a boy."</p>
+
+
+<h3>KNOWSLEY HALL.</h3>
+
+<p>A few miles out of Liverpool is the village of Prescot, where Kemble the
+tragedian was born, and where the people at the present time are largely
+engaged in watchmaking. Not far from Prescot is one of the famous homes
+of England&mdash;Knowsley Hall, the seat of the Stanleys and of the Earls of
+Derby for five hundred years. The park covers two thousand acres and is
+almost ten miles in circumference. The greater portion of the famous
+house was built in the time of George II. It is an extensive and
+magnificent structure, and contains many art-treasures in its
+picture-gallery by Rembrandt, Rubens, Correggio, Teniers, Vandyke,
+Salvator Rosa, and others. The Stanleys are one of the governing
+families of England, the last Earl of Derby having been premier in 1866,
+and the present earl having also been a cabinet minister. The crest of
+the Stanleys represents the Eagle and the Child, and is derived from the
+story of a remote ancestor who, cherishing an ardent desire for a male
+heir, and having only a daughter, contrived to have an infant conveyed
+to the foot of a tree in the park frequented by an eagle. Here he and
+his lady, taking a walk, found the child as if by accident, and the
+lady, consider<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>ing it a gift from Heaven brought by the eagle and
+miraculously preserved, adopted the boy as her heir. From this time the
+crest was assumed, but we are told that the old knight's conscience
+smote him at the trick, and on his deathbed he bequeathed the chief part
+of his fortune to the daughter, from whom are descended the present
+family.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE ANCIENT CITY OF CHESTER.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p021.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="EXTERIOR.&mdash;CHESTER CATHEDRAL.&mdash;INTERIOR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EXTERIOR.&mdash;CHESTER CATHEDRAL.&mdash;INTERIOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far from Liverpool, and in the heart of Cheshire, we come to the
+small but famous river Dee and the old and very interesting city of
+Chester. It is built in the form of a quadrant, its four walls enclosing
+a plot about a half mile square. The walls, which form a promenade two
+miles around, over which every visitor should tramp; the quaint gates
+and towers; the "Rows," or arcades along the streets, which enable the
+sidewalks to pass under the upper stories of the houses by cutting away
+the first-floor front rooms; and the many ancient buildings,&mdash;are all
+attractive. The Chester Cathedral is a venerable building of red
+sandstone, which comes down to us from the twelfth century, though it
+has recently been restored. It is constructed in the Perpendicular style
+of architecture, with a square and turret-surmounted central tower. This
+is the Cathedral of St. Werburgh, and besides other merits of the
+attractive interior, the southern transept is most striking from its
+exceeding length.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> The choir is richly ornamented with carvings and fine
+woodwork, the Bishop's Throne having originally been a pedestal for the
+shrine of St. Werburgh. The cathedral contains several ancient tombs of
+much interest, and the elaborate Chapter Room, with its Early English
+windows and pillars, is much admired. In this gorgeous structure the
+word of God is preached from a Bible whose magnificently-bound cover is
+inlaid with precious stones and its markers adorned with pearls. The
+book is the Duke of Westminster's gift, that nobleman being the landlord
+of much of Chester. In the nave of the cathedral are two English
+battle-flags that were at Bunker Hill. Chester Castle, now used as a
+barrack for troops, has only one part of the ancient edifice left,
+called Julius C&aelig;sar's Tower, near which the Dee is spanned by a fine
+single-arch bridge.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 349px;">
+<img src="images/p022-1.jpg" width="349" height="450" alt="JULIUS C&AElig;SAR&#39;S TOWER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JULIUS C&AElig;SAR&#39;S TOWER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 231px;">
+<img src="images/p022-2.jpg" width="231" height="400" alt="ANCIENT FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANCIENT FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p023-1" id="p023-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 023/024">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p023-1.jpg" width="235" height="400"
+ alt="GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p023-2.jpg" width="230" height="400"
+ alt="BISHOP LLOYD'S PALACE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BISHOP LLOYD'S PALACE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p023-3" id="p023-3"></a>
+<img src="images/p023-3.jpg" width="600" height="477" alt="OLD LAMB ROW." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD LAMB ROW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The quaintest part of this curious old city of Chester is no doubt the
+"Rows," above referred to. These arcades, which certainly form a capital
+shelter from the hot sun or rain, were, according to one authority,
+originally built as a refuge for the people in case of sudden attack by
+the Welsh; but according to others they originated with the Romans, and
+were used as the vestibules of the houses; and this seems to be the more
+popular theory with the townsfolk. Under the "Rows" are shops of all
+sizes, and some of the buildings are grotesquely attractive, especially
+the curious one bearing the motto of safety from the plague, "God's
+providence is mine inheritance," standing on Watergate street, and known
+as "God's Providence House;" and "Bishop Lloyd's Palace," which is
+ornamented with quaint wood-carvings. The "Old Lamb Row," where Randall
+Holme,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> the Chester antiquary, lived, stood by itself, obeying no rule
+of regularity, and was regarded as a nuisance two hundred years ago,
+though later it was highly prized. The city corporation in 1670 ordered
+that "the nuisance erected by Randall Holme in his new building in
+Bridge street be taken down, as it annoys his neighbors, and hinders
+their prospect from their houses." But this law seems to have been
+enforced no more than many others are on either side of the ocean, for
+the "nuisance" stood till 1821, when the greater part of it, the timbers
+having rotted, fell of its own accord. The "Dark Row" is the only one of
+these strange arcades that is closed from the light, for it forms a kind
+of tunnel through which the footwalk goes. Not far from this is the
+famous old "Stanley House," where one unfortunate Earl of Derby spent
+the last day before his execution in 1657 at Bolton. The carvings on the
+front of this house are very fine, and there is told in reference to the
+mournful event that marks its history the following story: Lieutenant
+Smith came from the governor of Chester to notify the condemned earl to
+be ready for the journey to Bolton. The earl asked, "When would you have
+me go?" "To-morrow, about six in the morning," said Smith. "Well,"
+replied the earl, "commend me to the governor, and tell him I shall<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> be
+ready by that time." Then said Smith, "Doth your lordship know any
+friend or servant that would do the thing your lordship knows of? It
+would do well if you had a friend." The earl replied, "What do you mean?
+to cut off my head?" Smith said, "Yes, my lord, if you could have a
+friend." The earl answered, "Nay, sir, if those men that would have my
+head will not find one to cut it off, let it stand where it is."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<img src="images/p024-1.jpg" width="550" height="360" alt="THE STANLEY HOUSE, FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE STANLEY HOUSE, FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p024-2" id="p024-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p024-2.jpg" width="500" height="365" alt="THE STANLEY HOUSE, REAR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE STANLEY HOUSE, REAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is easy in this strange old city to carry back the imagination for
+centuries, for it preserves its connection with the past better perhaps
+than any other English town. The city holds the keys of the outlet of
+the Dee, which winds around it on two sides, and is practically one of
+the gates into Wales. Naturally, the Romans established a fortress here
+more than a thousand years ago, and made it the head-quarters of their
+twentieth legion, who impressed upon the town the formation of a Roman
+camp, which it bears to this day. The very name of Chester is derived
+from the Latin word for a camp. Many Roman fragments still remain, the
+most notable being the Hyptocaust. This was found in Watergate street
+about a century ago, together with a tessellated pavement. There have
+also been exhumed Roman altars, tombs, mosaics, pottery and other
+similar relics. The city is built upon a sandstone rock, and this
+furnishes much of the building material, so that most of the edifices
+have their exteriors disintegrated by the elements, particularly the
+churches&mdash;a peculiarity that may have probably partly justified<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> Dean
+Swift's epigram, written when his bile was stirred because a rainstorm
+had prevented some of the Chester clergy from dining with him:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Churches and clergy of this city</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Are very much akin:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They're weather-beaten all without,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And empty all within."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p025-1" id="p025-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 025-1/025-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p025-1.jpg" width="317" height="500"
+ alt="THE PH&OElig;NIX TOWER." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p025-2.jpg" width="329" height="500"
+ alt="THE WATER TOWER." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PH&OElig;NIX TOWER.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE WATER TOWER.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p>The modernized suburbs of Chester, filled with busy factories, are
+extending beyond the walls over a larger surface than the ancient town
+itself. At the angles of the old walls stand the famous towers&mdash;the
+Ph&oelig;nix Tower, Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, Morgan's Mount, the Goblin
+Tower, and the Water Tower, while the gates in the walls are almost
+equally famous&mdash;the Eastgate, Northgate, Watergate, Bridgegate, Newgate,
+and Peppergate. The ancient Abbey of St. Mary had its site near the
+castle, and not far away are the picturesque ruins of St. John's Chapel,
+outside the walls. According to a local legend, its neighborhood had the
+honor of sheltering an illustrious fugitive. Harold, the Saxon king, we
+are told, did not fall at Hastings, but, escaping, spent the remainder
+of his life as a hermit, dwelling in a cell near this chapel and on a
+cliff alongside the Dee. The four streets leading from the gates at the
+middle of each side of the town come together in the centre at a place
+formerly known as the "Pentise," where was located the bull-ring at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+which was anciently carried on the refining sport of "bull-baiting"
+while the mayor and corporation, clad in their gowns of office, looked
+on approvingly. Prior to this sport beginning, we are told that solemn
+proclamation was made for "the safety of the king and the mayor of
+Chester"&mdash;that "if any man stands within twenty yards of the bull-ring,
+let him take what comes." Here stood also the stocks and pillory. Amid
+so much that is ancient and quaint, the new Town Hall, a beautiful
+structure recently erected, is naturally most attractive, its dedication
+to civic uses having been made by the present Prince of Wales, who bears
+among many titles that of Earl of Chester. But this is about the only
+modern attraction this interesting city possesses. At an angle of the
+walls are the "Dee Mills," as old as the Norman Conquest, and famous in
+song as the place where the "jolly miller once lived on the Dee." Full
+of attractions within and without, it is difficult to tear one's self
+away from this quaint city, and therefore we will agree, at least in one
+sense, with Dr. Johnson's blunt remark to a lady friend: "I have come to
+Chester, madam, I cannot tell how, and far less can I tell how to get
+away from it."</p>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p026-1" id="p026-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations 26-1 and 2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p026-1.jpg" width="304" height="450"
+ alt="ABBEY GATE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p026-2.jpg" width="230" height="400"
+ alt="RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ABBEY GATE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<h3>CHESHIRE.</h3>
+
+<p>The county of Cheshire has other attractions. But a short distance from
+Chester, in the valley of the Dee, is Eaton Hall, the elaborate palace
+of the Duke of Westminster and one of the finest seats in England,
+situated in a park of eight hundred acres that extends to the walls of
+Chester. This palace has recently been almost entirely rebuilt and
+modernized, and is now the most spacious and splendid example of Revived
+Gothic architecture in England. The house contains many works of
+art&mdash;statues by Gibson, paintings by Rubens and others&mdash;and is full of
+the most costly and beautiful decorations and furniture, being
+essentially one of the show-houses of Britain. In the extensive gardens
+are a Roman altar found in Chester and a Greek altar brought from
+Delphi.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> At Hawarden Castle, seven miles from Chester, is the home of
+William E. Gladstone, and in its picturesque park are the ruins of the
+ancient castle, dating from the time of the Tudors, and from the keep of
+which there is a fine view of the Valley of the Dee. The ruins of Ewloe
+Castle, six hundred years old, are not far away, but so buried in
+foliage that they are difficult to find. Two miles from Chester is Hoole
+House, formerly Lady Broughton's, famous for its rockwork, a lawn of
+less than an acre exquisitely planted with clipped yews and other trees
+being surrounded by a rockery over forty feet high. In the Wirral or
+Western Cheshire are several attractive villages. At Bidston, west of
+Birkenhead and on the sea-coast, is the ancient house that was once the
+home of the unfortunate Earl of Derby, whose execution is mentioned
+above. Congleton, in Eastern Cheshire, stands on the Dane, in a lovely
+country, and is a good example of an old English country-town. Its Lion
+Inn is a fine specimen of the ancient black-and-white gabled hostelrie
+which novelists love so well to describe. At Nantwich is a curious old
+house with a heavy octagonal bow-window in the upper story overhanging a
+smaller lower one, telescope-fashion. The noble tower of Nantwich church
+rises above, and the building is in excellent preservation.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly in the centre of Cheshire is the stately fortress of Beeston
+Castle, standing on a sandstone rock rising some three hundred and sixty
+feet from the flat country. It was built nearly seven hundred years ago
+by an Earl of Cheshire, then just returned from the Crusades. Standing
+in an irregular court covering about five acres, its thick walls and
+deep ditch made it a place of much strength. It was ruined prior to the
+time of Henry VIII., having been long contended for and finally
+dismantled in the Wars of the Roses. Being then rebuilt, it became a
+famous fortress in the Civil Wars, having been seized by the Roundheads,
+then surprised and taken by the Royalists, alternately besieged and
+defended afterward, and finally starved into surrender by the
+Parliamentary troops in 1645. This was King Charles's final struggle,
+though the castle did not succumb till after eighteen weeks' siege, and
+its defenders were forced to eat cats and rats to satisfy hunger, and
+were reduced to only sixty. Beeston Castle was then finally dismantled,
+and its ruins are now an attraction to the tourist. Lea Hall, an ancient
+and famous timbered mansion, surrounded by a moat, was situated about
+six miles from Chester, but the moat alone remains to show where it
+stood. Here lived Sir Hugh Calveley, one of Froissart's heroes, who was
+governor of Calais when it was held by the English, and is buried under
+a sumptuous tomb in the church of the neighboring college of Bunbury,
+which he founded. His armed effigy surmounts the tomb, and the
+inscription says he died on St. George's Day, 1394.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>THE RIVER DEE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p028.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="PLAS NEWYDD, LLANGOLLEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLAS NEWYDD, LLANGOLLEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p029" id="p029"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 273px;">
+<img src="images/p029.jpg" width="273" height="400" alt="RUINS OF VALLE-CRUCIS ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF VALLE-CRUCIS ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br />Frequent reference has been made to the river Dee, the Deva of the
+Welsh, which is unquestionably one of the finest streams of Britain. It
+rises in the Arran Fowddwy, one of the chief Welsh mountains, nearly
+three thousand feet high, and after a winding course of about seventy
+miles falls into the Irish Sea. This renowned stream has been the theme
+of many a poet, and after expanding near its source into the beautiful
+Bala Lake, whose bewitching surroundings are nearly all described in
+polysyllabic and unpronounceable Welsh names, and are popular among
+artists and anglers, it flows through Edeirnim Vale, past Corwen. Here a
+pathway ascends to the eminence known as Glendower's Seat, with which
+tradition has closely knit the name of the Welsh hero, the close of
+whose marvellous career marked the termination of Welsh independence.
+Then the romantic Dee enters the far-famed Valley of Llangollen, where
+tourists love to roam, and where lived the "Ladies of Llangollen." We
+are told that these two high-born dames had many lovers, but, rejecting
+all and enamored only of each other, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, the
+latter sixteen years the junior of the former, determined on a life of
+celibacy. They eloped together from Ireland, were overtaken and brought
+back, and then a second time decamped&mdash;on this occasion in masquerade,
+the elder dressed as a peasant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> and the younger as a smart groom in
+top-boots. Escaping pursuit, they settled in Llangollen in 1778 at the
+quaint little house called Plas Newydd, and lived there together for a
+half century. Their costume was extraordinary, for they appeared in
+public in blue riding-habits, men's neckcloths, and high hats, with
+their hair cropped short. They had antiquarian tastes, which led to the
+accumulation of a vast lot of old wood-carvings and stained glass,
+gathered from all parts of the world and worked into the fittings and
+adornment of their home. They were on excellent terms with all the
+neighbors, and the elder died in 1829, aged ninety, and the younger two
+years afterward, aged seventy-six. Their remains lie in Llangollen
+churchyard.</p>
+
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="p030-1" id="p030-1"></a><span class="caption">WYNNSTAY.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p030-1.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:650px; height:330px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:330px; height:150px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Within this famous valley are the ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey, the most
+picturesque abbey ruin in North Wales. An adjacent stone cross gave it
+the name six hundred years ago, when it was built by the great Madoc for
+the Cistercian monks. The ruins in some parts are now availed of for
+farm-houses. Fine ash trees bend over the ruined arches, ivy climbs the
+clustered columns, and the lancet windows with their delicate tracery
+are much admired. The remains consist of the church, abbot's lodgings,
+refectory, and dormitory. The church was cruciform, and is now nearly
+roofless, though the east and west ends and the southern transept are
+tolerably perfect, so that much of the abbey remains. It was occupied by
+the Cistercians, and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The ancient
+cross, of which the remains are still standing near by, is Eliseg's
+Pillar, erected in the seventh century as a memorial of that Welsh
+prince. It was one of the earliest lettered stones in Britain, standing
+originally about twelve feet high. From this cross came the name of
+Valle Crucis, which in the thirteenth century was given to the famous
+abbey. The great Madoc, who lived in the neighboring castle of Dinas
+Bran, built this abbey to atone for a life of violence. The ruins of his
+castle stand on a hill elevated about one thousand feet above the Dee.
+Bran in Welsh means <i>crow</i>, so that the English know it as Crow Castle.
+From its ruins there is a beautiful view over the Valley of Llangollen.
+Farther down the valley is the mansion of Wynnstay, in the midst of a
+large and richly wooded park, a circle of eight miles enclosing the
+superb domain, within which are herds of fallow-deer and many noble
+trees. The old mansion was burnt in 1858, and an imposing struc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>ture in
+Renaissance now occupies the site. Fine paintings adorn the walls by
+renowned artists, and the Dee foams over its rocky bed in a sequestered
+dell near the mansion. Memorial columns and tablets in the park mark
+notable men and events in the Wynn family, the chief being the Waterloo
+Tower, ninety feet high. Far away down the valley a noble aqueduct by
+Telford carries the Ellesmere Canal over the Dee&mdash;the Pont
+Cysylltau&mdash;supported on eighteen piers of masonry at an elevation of one
+hundred and twenty-one feet, while a mile below is the still more
+imposing viaduct carrying the Great Western Railway across.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p030-2" id="p030-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p030-2.jpg" width="450" height="270" alt="Pont Cysylltau" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PONT CYSYLLTAU.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far distant is Chirk Castle, now the home of Mr. R. Myddelton
+Biddulph, a combination of a feudal fortress and a modern mansion. The
+ancient portion, still preserved, was built by Roger Mortimer, to whom
+Edward I. granted the lordship of Chirk. It was a bone of contention
+during the Civil Wars, and when they were over, $150,000 were spent in
+repairing the great quadrangular fortress. It stands in a noble
+situation, and on a clear day portions of seventeen counties can be seen
+from the summit. Still following down the picturesque river, we come to
+Bangor-ys-Coed, or "Bangor-in-the-Wood," in Flintshire, once the seat of
+a famous monastery that disappeared twelve hundred years ago. Here a
+pretty bridge crosses the river, and a modern church is the most
+prominent structure in the village. The old monastery is said to have
+been the home of twenty-four hundred monks, one half of whom were slain
+in a battle near Chester by the heathen king Ethelfrith, who afterwards
+sacked the monastery, but the Welsh soon gathered their forces again and
+took terrible vengeance. Many ancient coffins and Roman remains have
+been found here. The Dee now runs with swift current past Overton to the
+ancient town of Holt, whose charter is nearly five hundred years old,
+but whose importance is now much less than of yore. Holt belongs to the
+debatable Powisland, the strip of territory over which the English and
+Welsh fought for centuries. Holt was formerly known as Lyons, and was a
+Roman outpost of Chester. Edward<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> I. granted it to Earl Warren, who
+built Holt Castle, of which only a few quaint pictures now exist, though
+it was a renowned stronghold in its day. It was a five-sided structure
+with a tower on each corner, enclosing an ample courtyard. After
+standing several sieges in the Civil Wars of Cromwell's time, the
+battered castle was dismantled.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;">
+<a name="p031" id="p031"></a>
+<img src="images/p031.jpg" width="398" height="600" alt="WREXHAM TOWER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WREXHAM TOWER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The famous Wrexham Church, whose tower is regarded as one of the "seven
+wonders of Wales," is three miles from Holt, and is four hundred years
+old. Few churches built as early as the reign of Henry VIII. can compare
+with this. It is dedicated to St. Giles, and statues of him and of
+twenty-nine other saints embellish niches in the tower. Alongside of St.
+Giles is the hind that nourished him in the desert. The bells of Wrexham
+peal melodiously over the valley, and in the vicarage the good Bishop
+Heber wrote the favorite hymn, "From Greenland's Icy Mountains." Then
+the Dee flows on past the ducal palace of Eaton Hall, and encircles
+Chester, which has its race-course, "The Roodee"&mdash;where they hold an
+annual contest in May for the "Chester Cup"&mdash;enclosed by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> a beautiful
+semicircle of the river. Then the Dee flows on through a straight
+channel for six miles to its estuary, which broadens among treacherous
+sands and flats between Flintshire and Cheshire, till it falls into the
+Irish Sea. Many are the tales of woe that are told of the "Sands o'
+Dee," along which the railway from Chester to Holyhead skirts the edge
+in Flintshire. Many a poor girl, sent for the cattle wandering on these
+sands, has been lost in the mist that rises from the sea, and drowned by
+the quickly rushing waters. Kingsley has plaintively told the story in
+his mournful poem:</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p032" id="p032"></a>
+<img src="images/p032.jpg" width="500" height="456" alt="THE ROODEE, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE ROODEE, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p033.jpg" width="600" height="211" alt="THE &quot;SANDS O&#39; DEE.&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;SANDS O&#39; DEE.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"They rowed her in across the rolling foam&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The cruel, crawling foam,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The cruel, hungry foam&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">To her grave beside the sea;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But still the boatmen hear her call her cattle home</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Across the Sands o' Dee."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>FLINT AND DENBIGH.</h3>
+
+<p>Let us now journey westward from the Dee into Wales, coming first into
+Flintshire. The town of Flint, it is conjectured, was originally a Roman
+camp, from the design and the antiquities found there. Edward I., six
+hundred years ago, built Flint Castle upon an isolated rock in a marsh
+near the river, and after a checquered history it was dismantled in the
+seventeenth century. From the railway between Chester and Holyhead the
+ruins of this castle are visible on its low freestone rock; it is a
+square, with round towers at three of the corners, and a massive keep at
+the other, formed like a double tower and detached from the main castle.
+This was the "dolorous castle" into which Richard II. was inveigled at
+the beginning of his imprisonment, which ended with abdication, and
+finally his death at Pomfret. The story is told that Richard<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> had a fine
+greyhound at Flint Castle that often caressed him, but when the Duke of
+Lancaster came there the greyhound suddenly left Richard and caressed
+the duke, who, not knowing the dog, asked Richard what it meant.
+"Cousin," replied the king, "it means a great deal for you and very
+little for me. I understand by it that this greyhound pays his court to
+you as King of England, which you will surely be, and I shall be
+deposed, for the natural instinct of the dog shows it to him; keep him,
+therefore, by your side." Lancaster treasured this, and paid attention
+to the dog, which would nevermore follow Richard, but kept by the side
+of the Duke of Lancaster, "as was witnessed," says the chronicler
+Froissart, "by thirty thousand men."</p>
+
+<p>Rhuddlan Castle, also in Flintshire, is a red sandstone ruin of striking
+appearance, standing on the Clwyd River. When it was founded no one
+knows accurately, but it was rebuilt seven hundred years ago, and was
+dismantled, like many other Welsh castles, in 1646. It was at Rhuddlan
+that Edward I. promised the Welsh "a native prince who never spoke a
+word of English, and whose life and conversation no man could impugn;"
+and this promise he fulfilled to the letter by naming as the first
+English Prince of Wales his infant son, then just born at Caernarvon
+Castle. Six massive towers flank the walls of this famous castle, and
+are in tolerably fair preservation. Not far to the southward is the
+eminence known by the Welsh as "Yr-Wyddgrug," or "a lofty hill," and
+which the English call Mold. On this hill was a castle of which little
+remains now but tracings of the ditches, larches and other trees
+peacefully growing on the site of the ancient stronghold. Off toward
+Wrexham are the ruins of another castle, known as Caergwrle, or "the
+camp of the giant legion." This was of Welsh origin, and commanded the
+entrance to the Vale of Alen; the English called it Hope Castle.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining Flintshire is Denbigh, with the quiet watering-place of
+Abergele out on the Irish Sea. About two miles away is St. Asaph, with
+its famous cathedral, having portions dating from the thirteenth
+century. The great castle of Denbigh, when in its full glory, had
+fortifications one and a half miles in circumference. It stood on a
+steep hill at the county-town, where scanty ruins now remain, consisting
+chiefly of an immense gateway with remains of flanking towers. Above the
+entrance is a statue of the Earl of Lincoln, its founder in the
+thirteenth century. His only son was drowned in the castle-well, which
+so affected the father that he did not finish the castle. Edward II.
+gave Denbigh to Despenser; Leicester owned it in Elizabeth's time;
+Charles II. dismantled it. The ruins impress the visitor with the
+stupendous strength of the immense walls of this stronghold, while
+extensive passages and dungeons have been explored beneath the surface
+for long dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>tances. In one chamber near the entrance-tower, which had
+been walled up, a large amount of gunpowder was found. At Holywell, now
+the second town in North Wales, is the shrine to which pilgrims have
+been going for many centuries. At the foot of a steep hill, from an
+aperture in the rock, there rushes forth a torrent of water at the rate
+of eighty-four hogsheads a minute; whether the season be wet or be dry,
+the sacred stream gushing forth from St. Winifrede's Well varies but
+little, and around it grows the fragrant moss known as St. Winifrede's
+Hair. The spring has valuable medicinal virtues, and an elegant dome
+covering it supports a chapel. The little building is an exquisite
+Gothic structure built by Henry VII. A second basin is provided, into
+which bathers may descend. The pilgrims to this holy well have of late
+years decreased in numbers; James II., who, we are told, "lost three
+kingdoms for a mass," visited this well in 1686, and "received as a
+reward the undergarment worn by his great-grandmother, Mary Queen of
+Scots, on the day of her execution." This miraculous spring gets its
+name from the pious virgin Winifrede. She having been seen by the Prince
+of Wales, Caradoc, he was struck by her great beauty and attempted to
+carry her off; she fled to the church, the prince pursuing, and,
+overtaking her, he in rage drew his sword and struck off her head; the
+severed head bounded through the church-door and rolled to the foot of
+the altar. On the spot where it rested a spring of uncommon size burst
+forth. The pious priest took up the head, and at his prayer it was
+united to the body, and the virgin, restored to life, lived in sanctity
+for fifteen years afterwards: miracles were wrought at her tomb; the
+spring proved another Pool of Bethesda, and to this day we are told that
+the votive crutches and chairs left by the cured remain hanging over St.
+Winifrede's Well.</p>
+
+<p>South of Denbigh, in Montgomeryshire, are the ruins of Montgomery
+Castle, long a frontier fortress of Wales, around which many hot
+contests have raged: a fragment of a tower and portions of the walls are
+all that remain. Powys Castle is at Welsh Pool, and is still
+preserved&mdash;a red sandstone structure on a rocky elevation in a spacious
+and well-wooded park; Sir Robert Smirke has restored it.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE MENAI STRAIT.</h3>
+
+<p>Still journeying westward, we come to Caernarvonshire, and reach the
+remarkable estuary dividing the mainland from the island of Anglesea,
+and known as the Menai Strait. This narrow stream, with its
+steeply-sloping banks and winding shores, looks more like a river than a
+strait, and it everywhere discloses evidence of the residence of an
+almost pre-historic people in relics of nations that inhabited its banks
+before the invasion of the Romans.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> There are hill-forts, sepulchral
+mounds, pillars of stone, rude pottery, weapons of stone and bronze; and
+in that early day Mona itself, as Anglesea was called, was a sacred
+island. Here were fierce struggles between Roman and Briton, and Tacitus
+tells of the invasion of Mona by the Romans and the desperate conflicts
+that ensued as early as <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 60. The history of the strait is a story of
+almost unending war for centuries, and renowned castles bearing the
+scars of these conflicts keep watch and ward to this day. Beaumaris,
+Bangor, Caernarvon, and Conway castles still remain in partial ruin to
+remind us of the Welsh wars of centuries ago. On the Anglesea shore, at
+the northern entrance to the strait, is the picturesque ruin of
+Beaumaris Castle, built by Edward I. at a point where vessels could
+conveniently land. It stands on the lowlands, and a canal connects its
+ditch with the sea. It consists of a hexagonal line of outer defences
+surrounding an inner square. Round towers flanked the outer walls, and
+the chapel within is quite well preserved. It has not had much place in
+history, and the neighboring town is now a peaceful watering-place.</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p036.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="THE MENAI STRAIT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MENAI STRAIT.</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p037-1.jpg" width="600" height="272" alt="BEAUMARIS CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BEAUMARIS CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p037-2.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="BANGOR CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BANGOR CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Across the strait is Bangor, a rather straggling town, with a cathedral
+that is not very old. We are told that its bishop once sold its peal of
+bells, and, going down to the shore to see them shipped away, was
+stricken blind as a punishment for the sacrilege. Of Bangor Castle, as
+it originally stood, but insignificant traces remain, but Lord Penrhyn
+has recently erected in the neighborhood the imposing castle of Penryhn,
+a massive pile of dark limestone, in which the endeavor is made to
+combine a Norman feudal castle with a modern dwelling, though with only
+indifferent success, excepting in the expenditure involved. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> roads
+from the great suspension-bridge across the strait lead on either hand
+to Bangor and Beaumaris, although the route is rather circuitous. This
+bridge, crossing at the narrowest and most beautiful part of the strait,
+was long regarded as the greatest triumph of bridge-engineering. It
+carried the Holyhead high-road across the strait, and was built by
+Telford. The bridge is five hundred and seventy-nine feet long, and
+stands one hundred feet above high-water mark; it cost $600,000. Above
+the bridge the strait widens, and here, amid the swift-flowing currents,
+the famous whitebait are caught for the London epicures. Three-quarters
+of a mile below, at another narrow place, the railway crosses the strait
+through Stephenson's Britannia tubular bridge, which is more useful than
+ornamental, the railway passing through two long rectangular iron tubes,
+supported on plain massive pillars. From a rock in the strait the
+central tower rises to a height of two hundred and thirty feet, and
+other towers are built on each shore at a distance of four hundred and
+sixty feet from the central one. Couchant lions carved in stone guard
+the bridge-portals at each end, and this famous viaduct cost over
+$2,500,000. A short distance below the Anglesea Column towers above a
+dark rock on the northern shore of the strait. It was erected in honor
+of the first Marquis of Anglesea, the gallant commander of the British
+light cavalry at Waterloo, where his leg was carried away by one of the
+last French cannon-shots. For many years after the great victory he
+lived here, literally with "one foot in the grave." Plas Newydd, one and
+a half miles below, the Anglesea family residence, where the marquis
+lived, is a large and unattractive mansion, beautifully situated on the
+sloping shore. It has in the park two ancient sepulchral monuments of
+great interest to the antiquarian.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CAERNARVON AND CONWAY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p039" id="p039"></a>
+<img src="images/p039.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="CAERNARVON CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAERNARVON CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As the famous strait widens below the bridges the shores are tamer, and
+we come to the famous Caernarvon Castle, the scene of many stirring
+military events, as it held the key to the valleys of Snowdon, and
+behind it towers that famous peak, the highest mountain in Britain,
+whose summit rises to a height of 3590 feet. This great castle also
+commanded the south-western entrance to the strait, and near it the
+rapid little Sciont River flows into the sea. The ancient Britons had a
+fort here, and afterwards it was a Roman fortified camp, which gradually
+developed into the city of Segontium. The British name, from which the
+present one comes, was Caer-yn-Arvon&mdash;"the castle opposite to Mona."
+Segontium had the honor of being the birthplace of the Emperor
+Constantine, and many Roman remains still exist there. It was in 1284,
+however, that Edward I. began building the present castle, and it took
+thirty-nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> years to complete. The castle plan is an irregular oval,
+with one side overlooking the strait. At the end nearest the sea, where
+the works come to a blunt point, is the famous Eagle Tower, which has
+eagles sculptured on the battlements. There are twelve towers
+altogether, and these, with the light-and dark-hued stone in the walls,
+give the castle a massive yet graceful aspect as it stands on the low
+ground at the mouth of the Sciont. Externally, the castle is in good
+preservation, but the inner buildings are partly destroyed, as is also
+the Queen's Gate, where Queen Eleanor is said to have entered before the
+first English Prince of Wales was born. A corridor, with loopholes
+contrived in the thickness of the walls, runs entirely around the
+castle, and from this archers could fight an approaching enemy. This
+great fortress has been called the "boast of North Wales" from its size
+and excellent position. It was last used for defence during the Civil
+Wars, having been a military stronghold for nearly four centuries.
+Although Charles II. issued a warrant for its demolition, this was to a
+great extent disregarded. Prynne, the sturdy Puritan, was confined here
+in Charles I.'s time, and the first English Prince of Wales, afterwards
+the unfortunate Edward II., is said to have been born in a little dark
+room, only twelve by eight feet, in the Eagle Tower: when seventeen
+years of age the prince received the homage of the Welsh barons at
+Chester. The town of Caernarvon, notwithstanding its famous history and
+the possession of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> the greatest ruin in Wales, now derives its chief
+satisfaction from the lucrative but prosaic occupation of trading in
+slates.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p040.jpg" width="600" height="480" alt="CONWAY CASTLE, FROM THE ROAD TO LLANRWST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CONWAY CASTLE, FROM THE ROAD TO LLANRWST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the northern extremity of Caernarvon county, and projecting into the
+Irish Sea, is the promontory known as Great Orme's Head, and near it is
+the mouth of the Conway River. The railway to Holyhead crosses this
+river on a tubular bridge four hundred feet long, and runs almost under
+the ruins of Conway Castle, another Welsh stronghold erected by Edward
+I. We are told that this despotic king, when he had completed the
+conquest of Wales, came to Conway, the shape of the town being something
+like a Welsh harp, and he ordered all the native bards to be put to
+death. Gray founded upon this his ode, "The Bard," beginning&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"On a rock whose lofty brow</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Robed in a sable garb of woe.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">With haggard eyes the poet stood."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This ode has so impressed the Conway folk that they have been at great
+pains to discover the exact spot where the despairing bard plunged into
+the river, and several enthusiastic persons have discovered the actual
+site. The castle stands upon a high rock, and its builder soon after its
+completion was besieged there by the Welsh, but before being starved
+into submission was relieved by the timely arrival of a fleet with
+provisions. It was in the hall of Conway Castle that Richard II. signed
+his abdication. The castle was stormed and taken by Cromwell's troops in
+the Civil Wars, and we are told that all the Irish found in the garrison
+were tied in couples, back to back, and thrown into the river. The
+castle was not dismantled, but the townsfolk in their industrious
+quarrying of slates have undermined one of the towers, which, though
+kept up by the solidity of the surrounding masonry, is known as the
+"Broken Tower." There was none of the "bonus building" of modern times
+attempted in these ponderous Welsh castles of the great King Edward. The
+ruins are an oblong square, standing on the edge of a steep rock washed
+on two sides by the river; the embattled walls, partly covered by ivy,
+are twelve to fifteen feet thick, and are flanked by eight huge circular
+towers, each forty feet in diameter; the interior is in partial ruin,
+but shows traces of its former magnificence; the stately hall is one
+hundred and thirty feet long. The same architect designed both
+Caernarvon and Conway. A fine suspension-bridge now crosses the river
+opposite the castle, its towers being built in harmony with the
+architecture of the place, so that the structure looks much like a
+drawbridge for the fortress. Although the Conway River was anciently a
+celebrated pearl-fishery, slate-making, as at Caernarvon, is now the
+chief industry of the town.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 594px;">
+<a name="p042" id="p042"></a>
+<img src="images/p042.jpg" width="594" height="600" alt="THE SWALLOW FALLS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SWALLOW FALLS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 393px;">
+<img src="images/p041.jpg" width="393" height="400" alt="FALLS OF THE CONWAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FALLS OF THE CONWAY.</span>
+</div>
+<p>There are many other historic places in Caernarvonshire, and also
+splendid bits of rural and coast scenery, while the attractions for the
+angler as well as the artist are almost limitless. One of the prettiest
+places for sketching, as well as a spot where the fisherman's skill is
+often rewarded, is Bettws-y-Coed. This pretty village, which derives its
+name from a religious establishment&mdash;"Bede-house in the Wood"&mdash;that was
+formerly there, but long ago disappear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>ed, is a favorite resort for
+explorations of the ravines leading down from Mount Snowdon, which
+towers among the clouds to the southward. Not far away are the
+attractive Falls of the Conway, and from a rock above them is a good
+view of the wonderful ravine of Fors Noddyn, through which the river
+flows. Around it there is a noble assemblage of hills and headlands.
+Here, joining with the Conway, comes through another ravine the pretty
+Machno in a succession of sparkling cascades and rapids. Not far away is
+the wild and lovely valley of the Lledr, another tributary of the
+Conway, which comes tumbling down a romantic fissure cut into the
+frowning sides of the mountain. At Dolwyddelan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> a solitary tower is all
+that remains of the castle, once commanding from its bold perch on the
+rocks the narrow pass in the valley. It is at present a little village
+of slate-quarriers. The Llugwy is yet another attractive tributary of
+the Conway, which boasts in its course the Rhavadr-y-Wenol, or the
+Swallow Fall. This, after a spell of rainy weather, is considered the
+finest cataract in Wales for the breadth and volume of the water that
+descends, though not for its height. This entire region is full of
+charming scenery, and of possibly what some may love even better, good
+trout-fishing. Following the Conway Valley still farther up, and
+crossing over the border into Denbigh, we come to the little market-town
+of Llanrwst. It contains two attractive churches, the older one
+containing many curious monuments and some good carvings, the latter
+having been brought from Maenant Abbey. But the chief curiosity of this
+little Welsh settlement is the bridge crossing the Conway. It was
+constructed by Inigo Jones, and is a three-arched stone bridge, which
+has the strange peculiarity that by pushing a particular portion of the
+parapet it can be made to vibrate from one end to the other. Gwydyr
+House, the seat of Lord Willoughby de Eresby, is in the neighborhood, a
+small part of the original mansion built in 1555 remaining. Near Trefriw
+lived Taliesin, the father of Welsh poetry, and a monument erected by
+that nobleman on the river-bank perpetuates his memory.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 643px;">
+ <img src="images/p043-top.jpg" style="margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: -1em;" alt="LLANRWST BRIDGE" height="317" width="643"/>
+
+ </div>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 236px;">
+ <img src="images/p043-bottom.jpg" style="margin-top: -2.3em; margin-bottom: -2em; margin-left: -1.3em;" alt="LLANRWST BRIDGE" height="150" width="236"/>
+<span class="caption"><br /><br /><br />LLANRWST BRIDGE.</span>
+ </div>
+
+
+
+<p style="margin-top: 25em;">
+The recollection among the Welsh of the life and exploits of the great
+chieftain of former times, Madoc, is held very dear in Caernarvonshire,
+and is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> preserved not only in many legends, but also in the thriving and
+pleasant little seaport known as Port Madoc, which has grown up out of
+the slate-trade. Its wharf is a wilderness of slates, and much of the
+land in the neighborhood has been recovered from the sea. The geology as
+well as the scenery here is an interesting study. In fact, the whole
+Caernarvon coast, which stretches away to the south-west in the long
+peninsula that forms Cardigan Bay, is full of pleasant and attractive
+locations for student and tourist, and entwined around all are weird
+legends of the heroes and doings of the mystical days of the dim past,
+when Briton and Roman contended for the mastery of this historic region.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE COAST OF MERIONETH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p044" id="p044"></a>
+<img src="images/p044.jpg" width="600" height="419" alt="BARMOUTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BARMOUTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us make a brief excursion south of Mount Snowdon, along the coast of
+the pastoral county of Merioneth, where Nature has put many crags and
+stones and a little gold and wheat, but where the people's best reliance
+is their flocks. At the place where the Mawddach joins the sea is
+Barmouth, where a fishing-village has of late years bloomed into a
+fashionable watering-place. The houses are built on a strip of sand and
+the precipitous hillside beyond, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> the cottages are perched wherever
+they can conveniently hold on to the crags, the devious pathways and
+flights of steps leading up to them presenting a quaint aspect. The
+bends of the Mawddach, as it goes inland among the hills, present miles
+of unique scenery, the great walls of Cader Idris closing the
+background. Several hilltops in the neighborhood contain fortifications,
+and are marked by the old tombs known as cromlechs and Druids' altars.
+On the sea-coast curious reefs project, the chief of them being St.
+Patrick's Causeway. The legend tells us that a Welsh chieftain fifteen
+hundred years ago constructed these reefs to protect the lowlands from
+the incursions of the sea, and on the lands thus reclaimed there stood
+no less than twelve fortified Welsh cities. But, unfortunately, one
+stormy night the guardian of the embankments got drunk, and, slumbering
+at the critical moment, the waves rushed in, sweeping all before them.
+In the morning, where had before been fortified cities and a vast
+population, there was only a waste of waters. St. Patrick, we are told,
+used his causeway to bear him dryshod as far as possible when he walked
+the waters to Ireland.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p045.jpg" width="600" height="321" alt="BARMOUTH ESTUARY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BARMOUTH ESTUARY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us penetrate into the interior by going up the romantic valley of
+the Mawddach and viewing the frowning sides of the chief Merioneth
+mountain, Cader Idris, which towers on the right hand to the height of
+3100 feet. It is a long ridge rather than a peak, and steep precipices
+guard the upper portion. Two little lakes near the summit, enclosed by
+cliffs, afford magnificent scenery. Here is "Idris's Chair," where the
+grim magician, who used to make the moun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>tain his home, sat to perform
+his incantations, whilst in a hollow at the summit he had his couch.
+According to Welsh tradition, whoever passed the night there would
+emerge in the morning either mad or a poet. This mountain, like Snowdon,
+is said to have been formerly a volcano, and legends tell of the fiery
+outbursts that came from its craters, now occupied by the two little
+lakes. But the truth of these legends, though interwoven into Welsh
+poetry, is denied by prosaic geologists. A rough and steep track, known
+as the "Fox's Path," leads to the summit, and there is a fine view
+northward across the valleys to the distant summits of Snowdon and its
+attendant peaks, while spread at our feet to the westward is the broad
+expanse of Cardigan Bay. Lakes abound in the lowlands, and, pursuing the
+road up the Mawddach we pass the "Pool of the Three Pebbles." Once upon
+a time three stones got into the shoe of the giant Idris as he was
+walking about his domain, and he stopped here and threw them out. Here
+they still remain&mdash;three ponderous boulders&mdash;in the lake.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p046-1.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="CADER IDRIS, ON THE TALY-SLYN ASCENT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CADER IDRIS, ON THE TALY-SLYN ASCENT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p046" id="p046"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 297px;">
+<img src="images/p046-2.jpg" width="297" height="450" alt="RHAYADR-Y-MAWDDACH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RHAYADR-Y-MAWDDACH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />We leave the Mawddach and follow its tributary, the little river Wnion,
+as it ripples along over its pebbly bed guarded by strips of meadow.
+Soon we come to the lovely "Village of the Hazels," Dolgelly, standing
+in the narrow valley, and probably the prettiest spot in Wales. Steep
+hills rise on either hand, with bare craggy summits and the lower slopes
+richly wooded. Deep dells running into the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> hills vary the scenery, and
+thus the town is set in an amphitheatre of hills, up whose flanks the
+houses seem to climb. There is a little old church, and in a back court
+the ruins of the "Parliament House," where Owen Glendower assembled the
+Welsh Parliament in 1404. The Torrent Walk, where the stream from the
+mountain is spanned by picturesque bridges, is a favorite resort of the
+artist, and also one of the most charming bits of scenery in the
+neighborhood of this beautiful town. Pursuing the valley farther up and
+crossing the watershed, we come to the largest inland water of Wales,
+the beautiful Bala Lake, heretofore referred to in describing the river
+Dee, which drains it. It is at an elevation of six hundred feet,
+surrounded by mountain-peaks, and the possibility of making it available
+as a water-supply for London has been considered.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p047-1.jpg" width="600" height="306" alt="DOLGELLY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DOLGELLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+<img src="images/p048-1.jpg" width="600" height="296" alt="THE LOWER BRIDGE, TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LOWER BRIDGE, TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p048-2.jpg" width="600" height="328" alt="BALA LAKE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BALA LAKE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p047" id="p047"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+
+<img src="images/p047-2.jpg" width="450" height="345" alt="OWEN GLENDOWER&#39;S PARLIAMENT HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OWEN GLENDOWER&#39;S PARLIAMENT HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /><br />There is an attractive place on the Merioneth coast to the southward of
+Barmouth, at the mouth of the Rheidol, and near the estuary of the river
+Dovey. A ruined tower on a low eminence guards the harbor, where now is
+a fashionable watering-place, and is almost all that remains of the once
+powerful Aberystwith Castle, another stronghold of King Edward I.
+Portions of the entrance-gate and barbican can be traced, while the
+modern houses of the town are spread to the northward along the
+semicircular bay. The University College of Wales is located here, and
+the town is popularly known as the "Welsh Brighton," while among its
+antiquities in the suburbs is the ruined castellated mansion of Plas
+Crug, said to have been Glendower's home. On the northern part of the
+Merioneth coast is the entrance to the pleasant vale of Pfestiniog,
+another attractive spot to tourists. Tan-y-bwlch and Maentwrog<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> are
+romantic villages adjoining each other in this pretty valley full of
+waterfalls, among these being the renowned Black Cataract and the Raven
+Fall.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;">
+<img src="images/p049.jpg" width="306" height="500" alt="ABERYSTWITH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ABERYSTWITH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About twelve miles north of Barmouth the picturesque Harlech Castle
+stands on a promontory guarding the entrance to the Traeth. The cliff is
+precipitous, with just enough level surface on the top to accommodate
+the castle. The place is a quadrangle, with massive round towers at the
+corners connected by lofty curtain-walls. Circular towers, protected by
+a barbican, guard the entrance on the land side. Deep ditches cut in the
+rock surround the castle where that defence is necessary. From this
+fortress on the Rock of Harlech the view is magnificent. This crag is
+said to have supported a castle as early as the third century, when Lady
+Bronwen built it, and, being of most sensitive honor, died afterwards of
+grief because her husband had struck her. Unhappily, she was in advance
+of her age in her demonstration of woman's rights. Another castle
+replaced the first one in the sixth century, and some of its ruins were
+worked into the present castle, which is another achievement of the
+great Welsh fortress-builder, Edward I. It has stood several sieges.
+Owen Glendower held it five years against the English. When Edward IV.
+became king, Harlech still held out for the Lancastrian party, the
+redoubtable Welshman, David ap Ifon, being the governor. Summoned to
+surrender, the brave David replied, "I held a town in France till all
+the old women in Wales heard of it, and now I will hold a castle in
+Wales till all the old women in France hear of it." But David was
+starved into surrender, and then Edward IV. tried to break the terms of
+capit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>ulation made by Sir Richard Pembroke, the besieger. Sir Richard,
+more generous, told the king, "Then, by Heaven, I will let David and his
+garrison into Harlech again, and Your Highness may fetch him out by any
+who can, and if you demand my life for his, take it." The song of "The
+March of the Men of Harlech" is a memorial of this siege. Harlech was
+the last Welsh fortress during the Civil Wars that held out for Charles
+I., and since then it has been gradually falling to decay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p050.jpg" width="450" height="458" alt="HARLECH CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HARLECH CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We have now conducted the tourist to the chief objects in North Wales.
+The railway runs on to Holyhead, built on the extreme point of Holy
+Island on the western verge of Anglesea, where there is a fine harbor of
+refuge, lighthouses, and an excellent port. Here comes the "Wild
+Irishman," as the fast train is called that runs between London and
+Ireland, and its passengers are quickly transferred to the swift
+steamers that cross the Channel to Dublin harbor. Lighthouses dot the
+cliffs on the coast, and at this romantic outpost we will close the
+survey of North Wales.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"There ever-dimpling Ocean's cheek</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reflects the tints of many a peak,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caught by the laughing tides that lave</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Those Edens of the Western wave."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II.</h2>
+
+<h3>LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Lancashire&mdash;Warrington&mdash;Manchester&mdash;Furness Abbey&mdash;The
+Ribble&mdash;Stonyhurst&mdash;Lancaster Castle&mdash;Isle of
+Man&mdash;Castletown&mdash;Rushen Castle&mdash;Peele Castle&mdash;The Lake
+Country&mdash;Windermere&mdash;Lodore Fall&mdash;Derwentwater&mdash;Keswick&mdash;Greta
+Hall&mdash;Southey, Wordsworth and Coleridge&mdash;Skiddaw&mdash;The Border
+Castles&mdash;Kendal Castle&mdash;Brougham Hall&mdash;The Solway&mdash;Carlisle
+Castle&mdash;Scaleby Castle&mdash;Naworth&mdash;Lord William Howard.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>LANCASHIRE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+<img src="images/p051.jpg" width="550" height="444" alt="OLD MARKET, WARRINGTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD MARKET, WARRINGTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great manufacturing county of England for cotton and woollen
+spinning and weaving is Lancashire. Liverpool is the seaport for the
+vast aggregation of manufacturers who own the huge mills of Manchester,
+Salford, Warrington, Wigan, Oldham, Rochdale, Bolton, Blackburn,
+Preston, and a score of other towns, whose operatives work into yarns
+and fabrics the millions of bales of cotton and wool that come into the
+Mersey. The warehouse and factory, with the spinners' cottages and the
+manufacturers' villas, make up these towns, almost all of modern growth,
+and the busy machinery and smoking chimneys leave little chance for
+romance in Southern Lancashire. It was in this section that trade first
+compelled the use of modern improvements: here were used the earliest
+steam-engines; here labored Arkwright to perfect the spinning machinery,
+and Stephenson to build railways. To meet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> the necessities of
+communication between Liverpool and Manchester, the first canal was dug
+in England, and this was followed afterwards by the first experimental
+railway; the canal was constructed by Brindley, and was called the
+"Grand Trunk Canal," being twenty-eight miles long from Manchester to
+the Mersey River, at Runcorn above Liverpool, and was opened in 1767.
+The railway was opened in 1830; the odd little engine, the "Rocket,"
+then drew an excursion-train over it, and the opening was marred by an
+accident which killed Joseph Huskisson, one of the members of Parliament
+for Liverpool. Let us follow this railway, which now carries an enormous
+traffic out of Liverpool, eastward along the valley of the Mersey past
+Warrington, with its quaint old timbered market-house, and then up its
+tributary, the Irwell, thirty-one miles to Manchester.</p>
+
+
+<h3>MANCHESTER.</h3>
+
+<p>The chief manufacturing city of England has not a striking effect upon
+the visitor as he approaches it. It is scattered over a broad surface
+upon a gently undulating plain, and its suburbs straggle out into the
+country villages, which it is steadily absorbing in its rapid growth;
+the Irwell passes in a winding course through the city, receiving a
+couple of tributaries; this river divides Manchester from Salford, but a
+dozen bridges unite them. No city in England has had such rapid growth
+as Manchester in this century; it has increased from about seventy
+thousand people at the beginning of the century to over half a million
+now; and this is all the effect of the development of manufacturing
+industry. Yet Manchester is one of the oldest towns in England, for
+there was a Roman camp at Mancunium, as the C&aelig;sars called it, in the
+first century of the Christian era; and we are also told that in the
+days when giants lived in England it was the scene of a terrific combat
+between Sir Launcelot of the Lake and the giant Tarquin. A ballad tells
+the story, but it is easier read in prose: Sir Launcelot was travelling
+near Manchester when he heard that this giant held in durance vile a
+number of knights&mdash;"threescore and four" in all; a damsel conducts him
+to the giant's castle-gate, "near Manchester, fair town," where a copper
+basin hung to do duty as a bell; he strikes it so hard as to break it,
+when out comes the giant ready for the fray; a terrific combat ensues,
+and the giant, finding that he has met his match, offers to release the
+captives, provided his adversary is not a certain knight that slew his
+brother. Unfortunately, it happens that Sir Launcelot is the very same,
+and the combat is renewed with such vigor that the giant is slain, "to
+the great contentment of many persons."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p053.jpg" width="500" height="346" alt="MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL. FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL. FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ancient Mancunium was a little camp and city of about twelve acres,
+partly bounded by a tributary of the Irwell known as the Medlock. A
+ditch on the land-side was still visible in the last century, and
+considerable portions of the old Roman walls also remained within two
+hundred years. Many Roman relics have been discovered in the city, and
+at Knott Mill, the site of the giant Tarquin's castle, a fragment of the
+Roman wall is said to be still visible. The town in the early Tudor days
+had a college, and then a cathedral, and it was besieged in the Civil
+Wars, though it steadily grew, and in Charles II.'s time it was
+described as a busy and opulent place; but it had barely six thousand
+people. Cotton-spinning had then begun, the cotton coming from Cyprus
+and Smyrna. In 1700 life in Manchester, as described in a local
+guide-book, was noted by close application to business; the
+manufacturers were in their warehouses by six in the morning,
+breakfasted at seven on bowls of porridge and milk, into which masters
+and apprentices dipped their spoons indiscriminately, and dined at
+twelve; the ladies went out visiting at two in the afternoon, and
+attended church at four. Manchester was conservative in the Jacobite
+rebellion, and raised a regiment for the Pretender, but the royalist
+forces defeated it, captured the officers, and beheaded them. Manchester
+politics then were just the opposite of its present Liberal tendencies,
+and it was Byrom, a Manchester man, who wrote the quaint epigram
+regarding the Pretender and his friends which has been so often quoted:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"God bless the King&mdash;I mean our faith's defender!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">God bless (no harm in blessing) the Pretender!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But who Pretender is, or who is King&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">God bless us all!&mdash;that's quite another thing."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p>It was the rapid growth of manufacturing industry in Manchester that
+changed its politics, and it was here that was first conspicuously
+advocated the free-trade agitation in England which triumphed in the
+repeal of the Corn Laws, so as to admit food free of duty for the
+operatives, and in the Reform bill that changed the representation in
+Parliament. That fine building, the "Free-Trade Hall," is a monument of
+this agitation in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> which Manchester took such prominent part. As the
+city has grown in wealth, so has its architectural appearance improved;
+its school-and college-buildings are very fine, particularly Owens
+College, munificently endowed by a leading merchant. The Manchester
+Cathedral is an ancient building overlooking the Irwell which has had to
+be renewed in so many parts that it has a comparatively modern aspect.
+Other English cathedrals are more imposing, but this, "the ould paroch
+church" spoken of by the ancient chroniclers, is highly prized by the
+townsfolk; the architecture is Perpendicular and of many dates. Until
+recently this was the only parish church in Manchester, and consequently
+all the marriages for the city had to be celebrated there; the number
+was at times very large, especially at Easter, and not a few tales are
+told of how, in the confusion, the wrong pairs were joined together, and
+when the mistake was discovered respliced with little ceremony. It was
+in this Manchester Cathedral that one rector is said to have generally
+begun the marriage service by instructing the awaiting crowd to "sort
+yourselves in the vestry."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p054.jpg" width="650" height="376" alt="THE ASSIZE COURTS, MANCHESTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE ASSIZE COURTS, MANCHESTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some of the public buildings in Manchester are most sumptuous. The
+Assize Courts are constructed in rich style, with lofty Pointed roofs
+and a tall tower, and make one of the finest modern buildings in
+England. The great hall is a grand apartment, and behind the courts is
+the prison, near which the Fenians in 1867 made the celebrated rescue of
+the prisoners from the van for which some of the assailants were hanged
+and others transported. The Royal Exchange is a massive structure in the
+Italian style, with a fine portico, dome, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> towers; the hall within
+is said to be probably the largest room in England, having a width of
+ceiling, without supports, of one hundred and twenty feet. Here on
+cotton-market days assemble the buyers and sellers from all the towns in
+Lancashire, and they do an enormous traffic. The new Town-Hall is also a
+fine building, where the departments of the city government are
+accommodated, and where they have an apartment dear to every
+Englishman's heart&mdash;"a kitchen capable of preparing a banquet for eight
+hundred persons." The warehouses of Manchester are famous for their size
+and solidity, and could Arkwright come back and see what his
+cotton-spinning machinery has produced, he would be amazed. It was in
+Manchester that the famous Dr. Dalton, the founder of the atomic theory
+in chemistry, lived; he was a devout Quaker, like so many of the
+townspeople, but unfortunately was color-blind; he appeared on one
+occasion in a scarlet waistcoat, and when taken to task declared it
+seemed to him a very quiet, unobtrusive color, just like his own coat.
+Several fine parks grace the suburbs of Manchester, and King Cotton has
+made this thriving community the second city in England, while for miles
+along the beautifully shaded roads that lead into the suburbs the
+opulent merchants and manufacturers have built their ornamental villas.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p055.jpg" width="650" height="506" alt="THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, MANCHESTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, MANCHESTER.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>FURNESS AND STONYHURST</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 495px;">
+<img src="images/p056.jpg" width="495" height="500" alt="FURNESS ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FURNESS ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The irregularly-shaped district of Lancashire partly cut off from the
+remainder of the county by an arm of the Irish Sea is known as Furness.
+It is a wild and rugged region, best known from the famous Furness Abbey
+and its port of Barrow-in-Furness, one of the most remarkable examples
+in England of quick city growth. Forty years ago this was an
+insignificant fishing village; now Barrow has magnificent docks and a
+fine harbor protected by the natural breakwater of Walney Island, great
+iron-foundries and the largest jute-manufactory in the world; while it
+has recently also became a favorite port for iron shipbuilding. About
+two miles distant, and in a romantic glen called the Valley of Deadly
+Nightshade, not far from the sea, is one of the finest examples of
+medi&aelig;val church-architecture in England, the ruins of Furness Abbey,
+founded in the twelfth century by King Stephen and Maud, his queen. It
+was a splendid abbey, standing high in rank and power, its income in the
+reign of Edward I. being $90,000 a year, an enormous sum for that early
+day. The ruins are in fine preservation, and effigies of Stephen and
+Maud are on each side of the great east window. For twelve reigns the
+charters of sovereigns and bulls of popes confirmed the abbots of
+Furness in their extraordinary powers, which extended over the district
+of Furness, while the situation of the abbey made them military
+chieftains, and they erected a watch-tower on a high hill, from which
+signals alarmed the coast on the approach of an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> enemy. The church is
+three hundred and four feet long, and from the centre rose a tower,
+three of the massive supporting pillars of which remain, but the tower
+has fallen and lies a mass of rubbish; the stained glass from the great
+east window having been removed to Bowness Church, in Westmorelandshire.
+The abbey enclosure, covering eighty-five acres, was surrounded by a
+wall, the ruins of which are now covered with thick foliage. This
+renowned abbey was surrendered and dismantled in Henry VIII.'s reign;
+the present hotel near the ruins was formerly the abbot's residence.</p>
+
+<p>The river Ribble, which flows into the Irish Sea through a wide estuary,
+drains the western slopes of the Pennine Hills, which divide Lancashire
+from Yorkshire. Up in the north-western portion of Lancashire, near the
+bases of these hills, is a moist region known as the parish of Mitton,
+where, as the poet tells us,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The Hodder, the Calder, Ribble, and rain</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All meet together in Mitton domain."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>In Mitton parish, amid the woods along the Hodder and on the north side
+of the valley of the Ribble, stands the splendid domed towers of the
+baronial edifice of Stonyhurst, now the famous Jesuit College of
+England, where the sons of the Catholic nobility and gentry are
+educated. The present building is about three hundred years old, and
+quaint gardens adjoin it, while quite an extensive park surrounds the
+college. Not far away are Clytheroe Castle and the beautiful ruins of
+Whalley Abbey. The Stonyhurst gardens are said to remain substantially
+as their designer, Sir Nicholas Sherburne, left them. A capacious
+water-basin is located in the centre, with the leaden statue of Regulus
+in chains standing in the midst of the water. Summer-houses with tall
+pointed roofs are at each lower extremity of the garden, while an
+observatory is upon a commanding elevation. Tall screens of clipped
+yews, cut square ten feet high and five feet thick, divide the beds upon
+one side of the gardens, so that as you walk among them you are
+enveloped in a green yet pleasant solitude. Arched doorways are cut
+through the yews, and in one place, descending by broad and easy steps,
+there is a solemn, cool, and twilight walk formed by the overarching
+yews, the very place for religious meditation. Then, reascending, this
+sombre walk opens into air and sunshine amid delicious flower-gardens.
+On the opposite side of the gardens are walls hung with fruit, and
+plantations of kitchen vegetables. This charming place was fixed upon by
+the Jesuits for their college in 1794, when driven from Li&egrave;ge by the
+proscriptions of the French Revolution. The old building and the
+additions then erected enclose a large quadrangular court. In the front
+of the college, at the southern angle, is a fine little Gothic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> church,
+built fifty years ago. The college refectory is a splendid baronial
+hall. In the Mitton village-church near by are the tombs of the
+Sherburne family, the most singular monument being that to Sir Richard
+and his lady, which the villagers point out as "old Fiddle o' God and
+his wife"&mdash;Fiddle o' God being his customary exclamation when angry,
+which tradition says was not seldom. The figures are kneeling&mdash;he in
+ruff and jerkin, she in black gown and hood, with tan-leather gloves
+extending up her arms. These figures, being highly colored, as was the
+fashion in the olden time, have a ludicrous appearance. We are told that
+when these monuments came from London they were the talk of the whole
+country round. A stonemason bragged that he could cut out as good a
+figure in common stone. Taken at his word, he was put to the test, and
+carved the effigy of a knight in freestone which so pleased the
+Sherburne family that they gave him one hundred dollars for it, and it
+is now set in the wall outside the church, near the monuments.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LANCASTER CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p058" id="p058"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+
+<img src="images/p058.jpg" width="360" height="450" alt="CASTLE SQUARE, LANCASTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CASTLE SQUARE, LANCASTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>John of Gaunt, "time-honored Lancaster," was granted the Duchy of
+Lancaster by his father, King Edward III., but the place which stands
+upon the river Lune is of much greater antiquity. It was a Roman camp,
+and hence its name. The Picts destroyed it when the Romans left; the
+Saxons afterwards restored it, and ultimately it gave the name to the
+county. King John gave the town a charter, and John of Gaunt rebuilt the
+fortress, which became indissolubly connected with the fortunes of the
+House of Lancaster. Though sometimes besieged, it was maintained more
+for purposes of state than of war, and two centuries ago it still
+existed in all its ancient splendor, commanding the city and the sea.
+Lancaster stands on the slope of an eminence rising from the river Lune,
+and the castle-towers crown the summit, the fortress being spacious,
+with a large courtyard and variously-shaped towers. The keep is square,
+enormously strong, and defended by two semi-octagonal towers. This keep
+is known as "John of Gaunt's Chair,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> and commands a fine view of the
+surrounding country and far away across the sea to the distant outlines
+of the Isle of Man. This famous castle, partly modernized, is now used
+for the county jail and courts, the prison-chapel being in the keep. In
+the town several large manufactories attest the presiding genius of
+Lancashire, and the inn is the comfortable and old-fashioned King's Arms
+described by Dickens.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<img src="images/p058-1.jpg" width="289" height="500" alt="BRADDA HEAD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRADDA HEAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>ISLE OF MAN.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>
+<img src="images/p059-2.jpg" width="450" height="426" alt="KIRK BRADDEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KIRK BRADDEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 234px;">
+<img src="images/p060.jpg" width="234" height="450" alt="RHENASS WATERFALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RHENASS WATERFALL.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /><br />Let us go off from the Lancashire coast to that strange island which
+lies in the sea midway between England, Scotland, and Ireland, and whose
+bold shores are visible from "John of Gaunt's Chair." It stretches for
+thirty-three miles from its northern extremity at the point of Ayre to
+the bold detached cliffs of the little islet at the southern end known
+as the Calf of Man. Covering two hundred and twenty-seven square miles
+area, its coasts are irregular, its shores in several places
+precipitous, and a range of mountains traverses the entire island, the
+highest peak being Snaefell, rising 2024 feet, with North Barrule at one
+extremity and Cronk-ny-Jay Llaa, or "The Hill of the Rising Day," at the
+other. Man is a miniature kingdom, with its reproduction, sometimes in
+dwarf, of everything that other kingdoms have. It has four little
+rivers, the Neb, Colby, Black and Gray Waters, with little gems of
+cascades; has its own dialect, the Manx, and a parliament in miniature,
+known as the Council, or Upper House, and the House of Keys. It is a
+healthful resort, for all the winds that blow come from the sea, and its
+sea-views are striking, the rugged masses of Bradda Head, the
+mellow-coloring of the Calf, and the broad expanse of waters, dotted by
+scores of fishing-boats, making many scenes of artistic merit. While the
+want of trees makes the land-views harsh and cold, yet the glens and
+coves opening into the sea are the charms of Manx scenery, the high
+fuchsia-hedges surrounding many of the cottages giving bright coloring
+to the landscape when the flowers are in bloom. It is a beautiful place
+when once the tourist is able to land there, but the wharf arrangements
+are not so good as they might be. Once landed, the visitor usually first
+proceeds to solve the great zoological problem the island has long
+presented to the outer world, and finds that the Isle of Man does really
+possess a breed of tailless cats, whose caudal extremity is either
+altogether wanting or at most is reduced to a merely rudimental
+substitute.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>CASTLE RUSHEN.</h3>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p061.jpg" width="600" height="491" alt="CASTLE RUSHEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CASTLE RUSHEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Landing at the capital, Castletown, it is found that it gets its name
+from the ancient castle of Rushen, around which the town is built.
+Guttred the Dane is said to have built this castle nine hundred years
+ago, and to be buried beneath it, although Cardinal Wolsey constructed
+the surrounding stone glacis. The keep&mdash;into which the prisoners had to
+be lowered by ropes&mdash;and several parts of the interior buildings remain
+almost entire, but repeated sieges so wrecked the other portions that
+they have had to be restored. At the castle-entrance were stone chairs
+for the governor and judges. It was here that the eminent men who have
+ruled the Isle of Man presided, among them being Regulus, who was King
+of Man, and the famous Percy, who was attainted of high treason in 1403.
+Afterwards it was ruled by the Earls of Derby, who relinquished the
+title of king and took that of Lord of Man, holding their sovereignty
+until they sold it and the castles and patronage of the island to the
+Crown in 1764 for $350,000. With such a history it is natural that
+Castle Rushen should have a weird interest attached to it, and the
+ancient chroniclers tell of a mysterious apartment within "which has
+never been opened in the memory of man." Tradition says that this famous
+castle was first inhabited by fairies, and afterwards by the giants,
+until Merlin, by his magic power, dislodged most of the giants and bound
+the others in spells. In proof of this it is said there are fine
+apartments underneath the ground, to explore which several venturesome
+persons have gone down, only one of whom ever returned. To save the
+lives of the reckless would be explorers, therefore, this mysterious
+apartment, which gives entrance underground, is kept shut. The one who
+returned is described as an "explorer of uncommon courage," who managed
+to get back by the help of a clue of packthread which he took with him,
+and was thus able to retrace his steps. He had a wondrous tale to tell.
+After passing a number of vaults, and through a long, narrow passage
+which descended for more than a mile, he saw a little gleam of light,
+and gladly sought it out. The light came from a magnificent house,
+brilliantly illuminated. Having "well fortified himself with brandy
+before beginning the exploration," he courageously knocked at the door,
+and at the third knock a servant appeared, demanding what was wanted. He
+asked for directions how to proceed farther, as the house seemed to
+block the passage. The servant, after some parley, led him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> through the
+house and out at the back door. He walked a long distance, and then
+beheld another house, more magnificent than the first, where, the
+windows being open, he saw innumerable lamps burning in all the rooms.
+He was about to knock, but first had the curiosity to peep through a
+window into the parlor. There was a large black marble table in the
+middle of the room, and on it lay at full length a giant who, the
+explorer says, was "at least fourteen feet long and ten feet round the
+body." The giant lay with his head pillowed on a book, as if asleep, and
+there was a prodigious sword alongside him, proportioned to the hand
+that was to use it. This sight was so terrifying that the explorer made
+the best of his way back to the first house, where the servant told him
+that if he had knocked at the giant's door he would have had company
+enough, but would have never returned. He desired to know what place it
+was, but was told, "These things are not to be revealed." Then he made
+his way back to daylight by the aid of the clue of packthread as quickly
+as possible, and we are told that no one has ventured down there since.
+This is but one of the many tales of mystery surrounding the venerable
+Rushen Castle.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PEELE CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p063" id="p063"></a>
+<img src="images/p063.jpg" width="650" height="502" alt="PEELE CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PEELE CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Isle of Man derives its name from the ancient British word <i>mon</i>,
+which means "isolated." Around this singular place there are many rocky
+islets, also isolated, and upon one of the most picturesque of these,
+where art and Nature have vied in adding strength to beauty, is built
+the castle of Peele, off the western coast, overlooking the distant
+shores of Ireland. This castle is perched upon a huge rock, rising for a
+great height out of the sea, and completely inaccessible, except by the
+approach which has been constructed on the side towards the Isle of Man,
+where the little town of Peele is located. After crossing the arm of the
+sea separating the castle from the town, the visitor, landing at the
+foot of the rock, ascends about sixty steps, cut out of it, to the first
+wall, which is massive and high, and built of the old red sandstone in
+which the island abounds; the gates in this wall are of wood, curiously
+arched and carved, and four little watch-towers on the wall overlook the
+sea. Having entered, he mounts by another shorter stairway cut out of
+the rock to the second wall, built like the other, and both of them full
+of portholes for cannon. Passing through yet a third wall, there is
+found a broad plain upon the top of the rock, where stands the castle,
+surrounded by four churches, three almost entirely ruined; the other
+church (St. Germain's) is kept in some repair because it has within the
+bishop's chapel, while beneath is a horrible dungeon where the sea runs
+in and out through hollows of the rock with a continual roar; a steep
+and narrow stairway descends to the dungeon and burial-vaults,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> and
+within are thirteen pillars supporting the chapel above. Beware, if
+going down, of failing to count the pillars, for we are told that he who
+neglects this is sure to do something that will occasion his confinement
+in this dreadful dungeon. This famous castle of Peele even in its
+partly-ruined state has several noble apartments, and here were located
+some of the most interesting scenes of Scott's novel of <i>Peveril of the
+Peak</i>. It was in former days a state-prison, and in it were at one time
+confined Warwick the King-maker, and also Gloucester's haughty wife,
+Eleanor; her discontented spectre was said to haunt the battlements in
+former years, and stand motionless beside one of the watch-towers, only
+disappearing when the cock crew or church-bell tolled: another
+apparition, a shaggy spaniel known as the Manthe Doog, also haunted the
+castle, particularly the guard-chamber, where the dog came and lay down
+at candlelight; the soldiers lost much of their terror by the frequency
+of the sight, but none of them liked to be left alone with him, though
+he did not molest them. The dog came out by a passage through the church
+where the soldiers had to go to deliver the keys to their captain, and
+for moral support they never went that way alone. One of the soldiers,
+we are told, on a certain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> night, "being much disguised in liquor" (for
+spirits of various kinds appear in the Isle of Man, as most other
+places), insisted upon going with the keys alone, and could not be
+dissuaded; he said he was determined to discover whether the apparition
+was dog or devil, and, snatching the keys, departed: soon there was a
+great noise, but none ventured to ascertain the cause. When the soldier
+returned he was speechless and horror-stricken, nor would he ever by
+word or sign tell what had happened to him, but soon died in agony; then
+the passage was walled up, and the Manthe Doog was never more seen at
+Castle Peele.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE LAKE COUNTRY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<img src="images/p064.jpg" width="550" height="542" alt="A GLIMPSE OF DERWENTWATER, FROM SCAFELL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A GLIMPSE OF DERWENTWATER, FROM SCAFELL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>North of Lancashire, in the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, is
+the famous "Lake Country" of England. It does not cover a large area&mdash;in
+fact, a good pedestrian can walk from one extremity of the region to the
+other in a day&mdash;but its compact beauties have a charm of rugged outline
+and luxuriant detail that in a condensed form reproduce the Alpine lakes
+of Northern Italy. Derwentwater is conceded to be the finest of these
+English lakes, but there is also great beauty in Windermere and
+Ulleswater, Buttermere and Wastwater. The Derwent runs like a thread
+through the glassy bead of Derwentwater, a magnificent oval lake set
+among the hills, about three miles long and half that breadth, alongside
+which rises the frowning Mount Skiddaw with its pair of rounded heads.
+In entering the Lake Region from the Lancashire side we first come to
+the pretty Windermere Lake, the largest of these inland sheets of water,
+about ten miles long and one mile broad in the widest part. From Orrest
+Head, near the village of Windermere, there is a magnificent view of the
+lake from end to end, though tourists prefer usually to go to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+village of Bowness on the bank, where steamers start at frequent
+intervals and make the circuit of the pretty lake. From Bowness the
+route is by Rydal Mount, where the poet Wordsworth lived, to Koswick,
+about twenty-three miles distant, on Derwentwater.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 489px;">
+<img src="images/p065.jpg" width="489" height="650" alt="FALLS OF LODORE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FALLS OF LODORE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The attractive Derwent flows down through the Borrowdale Valley past
+Seathwaite, where for many a year there has been worked a famous mine of
+plumbago: we use it for lead-pencils, but our English ancestors, while
+making it valuable for marking their sheep, prized it still more highly
+as a remedy for colic and other human ills. There are several
+pencil-mills in the village, which, in addition to other claims for
+fame, is noted as one of the rainiest spots in England, the annual
+rainfall at Seathwaite sometimes reaching one hundred and eighty-two
+inches. The Derwent flows on through a gorge past the isolated pyramidal
+rock known as Castle Crag, and the famous Bowder Stone, which has fallen
+into the gorge from the crags above, to the hamlet of Grange, where a
+picturesque bridge spans the little river. We are told that the
+inhabitants once built a wall across the narrowest part of this valley:
+having long noticed the coincident appearance of spring and the cuckoo,
+they rashly concluded that the latter was the cause of the former, and
+that if they could only retain the bird their pleasant valley would
+enjoy perpetual spring; they built the wall as spring lengthened into
+summer, and with the autumn came the crisis. The wall had risen to a
+considerable height when the cuckoo with the approach of colder weather
+was sounding its somewhat asthmatic notes as it moved from tree to tree
+down the valley; it neared the wall, and as the population held their
+breath it suddenly flew over, and carried the spring away with it down
+the Derwent. Judge of the popular disgust when the sages of that region
+complainingly remarked that, having crossed but a few inches above the
+topmost stones of the wall, if the builders had only carried it a course
+or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> two higher the cuckoo might have been kept at home, and their valley
+thus have enjoyed a perennial spring.</p>
+
+<p>The Derwent flows on along its gorge, which has been slowly ground out
+by a glacier in past ages, and enters the lake through the marshy, flat,
+reedy delta that rather detracts from the appearance of its upper end.
+Not far away a small waterfall comes tumbling over the crags among the
+foliage; this miniature Niagara has a fame almost as great as the mighty
+cataract of the New World, for it is the "Fall of Lodore," about which,
+in answer to his little boy's question, "How does the water come down at
+Lodore?" Southey wrote his well-known poem that is such a triumph of
+versification, and from which this is a quotation:</p>
+
+<p style="clear: both;">
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Flying and flinging, writhing and wringing,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eddying and whisking, spouting and frisking,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Turning and twisting</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Around and around, with endless rebound,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smiting and fighting, a sight to delight in,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Confounding, astounding.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All at once, and all o'er, with mighty uproar&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And this way the water conies down at Lodore."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Thus we reach the border of Derwentwater, nestling beneath the fells and
+crags, as its miniature surrounding mountains are called. Little wooded
+islets dimple the surface of the lake, in the centre being the largest,
+St. Herbert's Island, where once that saint lived in a solitary cell: he
+was the bosom friend of St. Cuthbert, the missionary of Northumberland,
+and made an annual pilgrimage over the Pennine Hills to visit him;
+loving each other in life, in death they were not divided, for
+Wordsworth tells us that</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"These holy men both died in the same hour."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Another islet is known as Lord's Island, where now the rooks are in full
+possession, but where once was the home of the ill-fated Earl of
+Derwentwater, who was beheaded in 1716 for espousing the Pretender's
+cause. It is related that before his execution on Tower Hill he closely
+viewed the block, and finding a rough place which might offend his neck,
+he bade the headsman chip it off; this done, he cheerfully placed his
+head upon it, gave the sign, and died: his estates were forfeited and
+settled by the king on Greenwich Hospital. Castle Hill rises boldly on
+the shore above Derwent Isle, where there is a pretty residence, and
+every few years there is added to the other islets on the bosom of the
+lake the "Floating Island," a mass of vegetable matter that becomes
+detached from the marsh at the upper end. At Friar's Crag, beneath
+Castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> Hill, the lake begins to narrow, and at Portinscale the Derwent
+flows out, receives the waters of the Greta coming from Keswick, and,
+after flowing a short distance through the meadow-land, expands again
+into Bassenthwaite Lake, a region of somewhat tamer yet still beautiful
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Keswick stands some distance back from the border of
+Derwentwater, and is noted as having been the residence of Southey. In
+Greta Hall, an unpretentious house in the town, Southey lived for forty
+years, dying there in 1843. He was laid to rest in the parish church of
+Crosthwaite, just outside the town. At the pretty little church there is
+a marble altar-tomb, the inscription on which to Southey's memory was
+written by Wordsworth. Greta Hall was also for three years the home of
+Coleridge, the two families dwelling under the same roof. Behind the
+modest house rises Skiddaw, the bare crags of the rounded summits being
+elevated over three thousand feet, and beyond it the hills and moors of
+the Skiddaw Forest stretch northward to the Solway, with the Scruffel
+Hill beyond. Upon a slope of the mountain, not far from Keswick, is a
+Druids' circle, whose builders scores of centuries ago watched the mists
+on Skiddaw's summit, as the people there do now, to foretell a change of
+weather as the clouds might rise or fall, for they tell us that</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If Skiddaw hath a cap,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scruffel wots full well of that."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE BORDER CASTLES.</h3>
+
+<p>At Kendal, in Westmorelandshire, are the ruins of Kendal Castle, a relic
+of the Norman days, but long since gone to decay. Here lived the
+ancestors of King Henry VIII.'s last wife, Queen Catharine Parr.
+Opposite it are the ruins of Castle How, and not far away the quaint
+appendage known as Castle Dairy, replete with heraldic carvings. It was
+in the town of Kendal that was made the foresters' woollen cloth known
+as "Kendal green," which was the uniform of Robin Hood's band.</p>
+
+<p>In the northern part of the county, on the military road to Carlisle,
+are the ruins of Brougham Castle, built six hundred years ago. It was
+here that the Earl of Cumberland magnificently entertained King James I.
+for three days on one of his journeys out of Scotland. It is famous as
+the home of the late Henry, Lord Brougham, whose ancestors held it for
+many generations. The manor-house, known as Brougham Hall, has such
+richness, variety, and extent of prospect from its terraces that it is
+called the "Windsor of the North." Lord Brougham was much attached to
+his magnificent home, and it was here in 1860 that he finished his
+comprehensive work on the <i>British Constitution</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> and wrote its famous
+dedication to the queen, beginning with the memorable words, "Madame, I
+presume to lay at Your Majesty's feet a work the 'result of many years'
+diligent study, much calm reflection, and a long life's experience." In
+close proximity to the castle is the Roman station Brocavum, founded by
+Agricola in <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 79. Its outline is clearly defined, the camp within the
+inner ditch measuring almost one thousand feet square. Various Roman
+roads lead from it, and much of the materials of the outworks were built
+into the original Brougham Castle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p068.jpg" width="600" height="553" alt="ROAD THROUGH CATHEDRAL CLOSE, CARLISLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROAD THROUGH CATHEDRAL CLOSE, CARLISLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Solway and its firth divide England from Scotland, and this
+borderland has been the scene of many deadly feuds, though happily only
+in the days long agone. The castle of Carlisle was a noted border
+stronghold, built of red sandstone by King William Rufus, who rebuilt
+Carlisle, which had then lain in ruins two hundred years because of the
+forays of the Danes. Richard III. enlarged the castle, and Henry VIII.
+built the citadel. Here Mary Queen of Scots was once lodged, but in
+Elizabeth's time the castle fell into decay. In the town is a fine
+cathedral, which has been thoroughly restored. In a flat situation north
+of Carlisle are the ruins of Scaleby Castle, once a fortress of great
+strength, but almost battered to pieces when it resisted Cromwell's
+forces. There are several acres enclosed within the moat, intended for
+the cattle when driven in to escape the forays that came over the
+border. This venerable castle is now a picturesque ruin. Twelve miles
+north-east of Carlisle is Naworth Castle, near where the Roman Wall
+crossed England. This is one of the finest feudal remains in Cumberland,
+having been the stronghold of the Wardens of the Marches, who guarded
+the border from Scottish incursions. It stands amid fine scenery, and
+just to the southward is the Roman Wall, of which many remains are still
+traced, while upon the high moorland in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> the neighborhood is the paved
+Roman Road, twelve feet wide and laid with stone. At Naworth there was
+always a strong garrison, for the border was rarely at peace, and</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p069.jpg" width="450" height="356" alt="VIEW ON TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEW ON TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Stern on the angry confines Naworth rose,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In dark woods islanded; its towers looked forth</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And frowned defiance on the angry North."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Here lived, with a host of retainers, the famous "belted Will"&mdash;Lord
+William Howard, son of the fourth Duke of Norfolk&mdash;who in the early part
+of the seventeenth century finally brought peace to the border by his
+judicious exercise for many years of the Warden's powers. It is of this
+famous soldier and chivalrous knight, whose praises are even yet sung in
+the borderland, that Scott has written&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Howard, than whom knight</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Was never dubbed more bold in fight,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor, when from war and armor free.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">More famed for stately courtesy."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III.</h2>
+
+<h3>LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Peak of Derbyshire&mdash;Castleton&mdash;Bess of Hardwicke&mdash;Hardwicke
+Hall&mdash;Bolsover Castle&mdash;The Wye and the
+Derwent&mdash;Buxton&mdash;Bakewell&mdash;Haddon Hall&mdash;The King of the
+Peak&mdash;Dorothy Vernon&mdash;Rowsley&mdash;The Peacock Inn&mdash;Chatsworth&mdash;The
+Victoria Regia&mdash;Matlock&mdash;Dovedale&mdash;Beauchief Abbey&mdash;Stafford
+Castle&mdash;Trentham Hall&mdash;Tamworth&mdash;Tutbury Castle&mdash;Chartley
+Castle&mdash;Alton Towers&mdash;Shrewsbury Castle&mdash;Bridgenorth&mdash;Wenlock
+Abbey&mdash;Ludlow Castle&mdash;The Feathers Inn&mdash;Lichfield Cathedral&mdash;Dr.
+Samuel Johnson&mdash;Coventry&mdash;Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom&mdash;Belvoir
+Castle&mdash;Charnwood Forest&mdash;Groby and Bradgate&mdash;Elizabeth Widvile and
+Lady Jane Grey&mdash;Ulverscroft Priory&mdash;Grace Dieu Abbey&mdash;Ashby de la
+Zouche&mdash;Langley Priory&mdash;Leicester Abbey and Castle&mdash;Bosworth
+Field&mdash;Edgehill&mdash;Naseby&mdash;The Land of
+Shakespeare&mdash;Stratford-on-Avon&mdash;Warwick&mdash;Kenilworth&mdash;Birmingham&mdash;Boulton
+and Watt&mdash;Fotheringhay Castle&mdash;Holmby House&mdash;Bedford Castle&mdash;John
+Bunyan&mdash;Woburn Abbey and the Russells&mdash;Stowe&mdash;Whaddon Hall&mdash;Great
+Hampden&mdash;Creslow House.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE.</h3>
+
+<p>The river Mersey takes its sources&mdash;for it is formed by the union of
+several smaller streams&mdash;in the ranges of high limestone hills east of
+Liverpool, in North Derbyshire. These hills are an extension of the
+Pennine range that makes the backbone of England, and in Derbyshire they
+rise to a height of nearly two thousand feet, giving most picturesque
+scenery. The broad top of the range at its highest part is called the
+Kinderscout, or, more familiarly, "The Peak." The mountain-top is a vast
+moor, abounding in deep holes and water-pools, uninhabited excepting by
+the stray sportsman or tourist, and dangerous and difficult to cross.
+Yet, once mounted to the top, there are good views of the wild scenery
+of the Derbyshire hills, with the villages nestling in the glens, and of
+the "Kinder Fall," where much of the water from the summit pours down a
+cataract of some five hundred feet height, while not far away is the
+"Mermaid's Pool," where, if you go at the midnight hour that ushers in
+Easter Sunday, and look steadily into the water, you will see a mermaid.
+The man who ventures upon that treacherous bogland by night certainly
+deserves to see the best mermaid the Peak can produce. This limestone
+region is a famous place. In the sheltered valley to the westward of the
+Kinderscout is the village of Castleton, almost covered in by high hills
+on all sides. It was here upon a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> bold cliff to the southward of the
+village that "Peveril of the Peak" built his renowned castle at the time
+of the Norman Conquest, of which only the ruins of the keep and part of
+the outer walls remain. Almost inaccessible, it possessed the
+extraordinary powers of defence that were necessary in those troublous
+times, and here its founder gave a grand tournament, to which young
+knights came from far and near, the successful knight of Lorraine being
+rewarded by his daughter's hand. In the time of Edward III. this "Castle
+of the Peak" reverted to the Crown, but now it is held by the Duke of
+Devonshire. Under the hill on which the ruins stand is the "Cavern of
+the Peak," with a fine entrance in a gloomy recess formed by a chasm in
+the rocks. This entrance makes a Gothic arch over one thousand feet
+wide, above which the rock towers nearly three hundred feet, and it is
+chequered with colored stones. Within is a vast flat-roofed cavern, at
+the farther side being a lake over which the visitors are ferried in a
+boat. Other caverns are within, the entire cave extending nearly a half
+mile, a little river traversing its full length. There are more and
+similar caverns in the neighborhood.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<img src="images/p071.jpg" width="550" height="558" alt="PEVERIL CASTLE, CASTLETON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PEVERIL CASTLE, CASTLETON.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BESS OF HARDWICKE.</h3>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p072" id="p072"></a><span class="caption">HARDWICKE HALL.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p072.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:600px; height:400px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:220px; height:100px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>One of the great characters of the sixteenth century was Elizabeth,
+Countess of Shrewsbury, familiarly known as "Bess of Hardwicke," where
+she was born, and who managed to outlive four husbands, thus showing
+what success is in store for a woman of tact and business talent. She
+was a penniless bride at fourteen, when she married an opulent gentleman
+of Derbyshire named Barley, who left her at fifteen a wealthy widow. At
+the age of thirty she married another rich husband, Sir William
+Cavendish, the ancestor of the Dukes of Devonshire, who died in 1557,
+leaving her again a widow, but with large estates, for she had taken
+good care to look after the proper marriage settlements; and in fact,
+even in those early days, a pretty good fortune was necessary to provide
+for the family of eight children Sir William left her. She next married
+Sir William Loe, who also had large estates and was the captain of the
+king's guard, the lady's business tact procuring in advance of the
+wedding the settlement of these estates upon herself and her children&mdash;a
+hard condition, with which, the historian tells us, "the gallant
+captain, who had a family by a former marriage, felt himself constrained
+to comply or forego his bride." But in time the captain died, and his
+estates all went to the thrifty lady, to the exclusion of his own
+family; and to the blooming widow, thus made for the third time, there
+came a-courting the Earl of Shrewsbury; the earl had numerous offspring,
+and therefore could hardly give Bess all his possessions, like her other
+husbands, but she was clever enough to obtain her object in another way.
+As a condition precedent to accepting the earl, she made him marry two
+of his children to two of hers, and after seeing these two weddings
+solemnized, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> earl led her to the altar for the fourth time at the
+age of fifty; and we are told that all four of these weddings were
+actual "love-matches." But she did not get on well with the earl, whose
+correspondence shows she was a little shrewish, though in most quarrels
+she managed to come off ahead, having by that time acquired experience.
+When the earl died in 1590, and Bess concluded not again to attempt
+matrimony, she was immensely rich and was seized with a mania for
+building, which has left to the present day three memorable houses:
+Hardwicke Hall, where she lived, Bolsover Castle, and the palace of
+Chatsworth, which she began, and on which she lavished the enormous sum,
+for that day, of $400,000. The legend runs that she was told that so
+long as she kept building her life would be spared&mdash;an architect's ruse
+possibly; and when finally she died it was during a period of hard
+frost, when the masons could not work.</p>
+
+
+<p>Hardwicke Hall, near Mansfield, which the renowned Bess has left as one
+of her monuments, is about three hundred years old, and approached by a
+noble avenue through a spacious park; it is still among the possessions
+of the Cavendish family and in the Duke of Devonshire's estates. The old
+hall where Bess was born almost touches the new one that she built, and
+which bears the initials of the proud and determined woman in many
+places outside and in. It was here that Mary Queen of Scots was held in
+captivity part of the time that she was placed by Queen Elizabeth in the
+custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and her statue stands in the hall.
+There is an extensive picture-gallery containing many historical
+portraits, and also fine state-apartments. The mansion is a lofty oblong
+stone structure, with tall square towers at each corner, the
+architecture being one of the best specimens of the Elizabethan Period;
+on the side, as viewed from the park, the hall seems all windows, which
+accounts for the saying of that neighborhood:</p></div>
+
+<p class="center">
+"Hardwicke Hall, more glass than wall."
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="p073" id="p073"></a>
+<img src="images/p073.jpg" width="400" height="396" alt="ELIZABETHAN STAIRCASE, HARDWICKE HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELIZABETHAN STAIRCASE, HARDWICKE HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The ruins of the old hall, almost overgrown with ivy, are picturesque,
+but from everywhere on the ancient or on the modern hall there peer out
+the initials "E. S.," with which the prudent Bess was so careful to mark
+all her possessions.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>BOLSOVER CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p074.jpg" width="500" height="463" alt="BOLSOVER CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BOLSOVER CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The noted Bolsover Castle, which Bess also built, though her son
+finished it after her death, stands in a magnificent position on a high
+plateau not far from Chesterfield, overlooking a wide expanse of
+Derbyshire. The present castle replaced an ancient structure that had
+fallen into ruin, and was supposed to have been built by "Peveril of the
+Peak;" it was fortified during King John's time, and traces of the
+fortifications still remain; it was repeatedly besieged and taken by
+assault. The present building is a square and lofty mansion of
+castellated appearance, with towers at the corners built of brown stone;
+in it the Earl of Newcastle, who subsequently inherited it, spent on one
+occasion $75,000 in entertaining King Charles I., the entire country
+round being invited to come and attend the king: Ben Jonson performed a
+play for his amusement. Lord Clarendon speaks of the occasion as "such
+an excess of feasting as had scarce ever been known in England before."
+It now belongs to the Duke of Portland, and has fallen into partial
+decay, with trees growing in some of the deserted apartments and ivy
+creeping along the walls. Visitors describe it as a ghostly house, with
+long vaulted passages, subterranean chambers, dungeon-like holes in the
+towers, and mysterious spaces beneath the vaults whence come weird
+noises. When Mr. Jennings visited Bolsover recently he described it as
+like a haunted house, and after examining the apartments, in which most
+things seemed going to decay, he went down stairs, guided by an old
+woman, to the cellars and passages that are said to be the remains of
+the original Norman castle. A chamber with a high vaulted roof was used
+as a kitchen, and an ancient stone passage connected it with a crypt;
+beneath this, she told him, there was a church, never opened since the
+days of Peveril. Their voices had a hollow sound, and their footsteps
+awakened echoes as if from a large empty space beneath: the servants,
+she said, were afraid to come down where they were, excepting by twos
+and threes, and she added: "Many people have seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> things here besides
+me: something bad has been done here, sir, and when they open that
+church below they'll find it out. Just where you stand by that door I
+have several times seen a lady and gentleman&mdash;only for a moment or two,
+for they come like a flash; when I have been sitting in the kitchen, not
+thinking of any such thing, they stood there&mdash;the gentleman with ruffles
+on, the lady with a scarf round her waist; I never believed in ghosts,
+but I have seen <i>them</i>. I am used to it now, and don't mind it, but we
+do not like the noises, because they disturb us. Not long ago my
+husband, who comes here at night, and I could not sleep at all, and we
+thought at last that somebody had got shut up in the castle, for some
+children had been here that day; so we lit a candle and went all over
+it, but there was nothing, only the noises following us, and keeping on
+worse than ever after we left the rooms, though they stopped while we
+were in them." The old woman's tale shows the atmosphere there is about
+this sombre and ghostly castle of Bolsover.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE WYE AND THE DERWENT.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p075.jpg" width="650" height="313" alt="THE CRESCENT, BUXTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CRESCENT, BUXTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These two noted rivers take their rise in the Derbyshire hills, and,
+coming together at Rowsley near the pretty Peacock Inn, flow down to the
+sea through the valleys of the Wye, the Trent, and the Humber. Rising in
+the limestone hills to the north of Buxton, the Wye flows past that
+celebrated bath, where the Romans first set the example of seeking its
+healing waters, both hot and cold springs gushing from the rocks in
+close proximity. It stands nine hundred feet above the sea, its nucleus,
+"The Crescent," having been built by the Duke of Devonshire; and the
+miraculous cures wrought by St. Mary's Well are noted by Charles Cotton
+among the <i>Wonders of the Peak</i>. From Buxton<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the Wye follows a romantic
+glen to Bakewell, the winding valley being availed of, by frequent
+tunnels, viaducts, and embankments, as a route for the Midland Railway.
+In this romantic glen is the remarkable limestone crag known as Chee
+Tor, where the curving valley contracts into a narrow gorge. The gray
+limestone cliffs are in many places overgrown with ivy, while trees find
+rooting-places in their fissures. Tributary brooks fall into the Wye,
+all flowing through miniature dales that disclose successive beauties,
+and then at a point where the limestone hills recede from the river,
+expanding the valley, Bakewell is reached. Here are also mineral
+springs, but the most important place in the town is the parish church,
+parts of which are seven hundred years old. It is a picturesque
+building, cruciform, with a spire, and is rich in sepulchral remains,
+containing the ancestors of the Duke of Rutland&mdash;who owns the town&mdash;in
+the tombs of a long line of Vernons and Manners. In the churchyard are
+several curious epitaphs, among them that of John Dale and his two
+wives, the inscription concluding,</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/p076.jpg" width="339" height="450" alt="BAKEWELL CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BAKEWELL CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"A period's come to all their toylsome lives;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The good man's quiet&mdash;still are both his wives."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>In this churchyard is also the well-known epitaph often quoted:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Beneath a sleeping infant lies, to earth whose body lent,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">More glorious shall hereafter rise, tho' not more innocent.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When the archangels trump shall blow, and souls to bodies join,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Millions will wish their lives below had been as short as thine."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>HADDON HALL.</h3>
+
+<p>Three miles below Bakewell, near the Wye, is one of the most famous old
+mansions of England&mdash;Haddon Hall. This ancient baronial home, with its
+series of houses, its courtyards, towers, embattled walls, and gardens,
+stands on the side of a hill sloping down to the Wye, while the railway
+has pierced a tunnel through the hill almost underneath the structure.
+The buildings surround two courtyards paved with large stones, and cover
+a space of nearly three hundred feet square. Outside the arched
+entrance-gate to the first courtyard is a low thatched cottage used as a
+porter's lodge. Haddon is maintained, not as a residence, but to give as
+perfect an idea as possible of a baronial hall of the Middle Ages. To
+get to the entrance the visitor toils up a rather steep hill, and on the
+way passes two remarkable yew trees, cut to represent the crests of the
+two families whose union by a romantic marriage is one of the traditions
+of this famous place. One yew represents the peacock of Manners,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> the
+present ducal house of Rutland, and the other the boar's head of Vernon.
+Parts of this house, like so many structures in the neighborhood, were
+built in the time of "Peveril of the Peak," and its great hall was the
+"Martindale Hall" of Scott's novel, thus coming down to us through eight
+centuries, and nearly all the buildings are at least four hundred years
+old.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p077.jpg" width="600" height="317" alt="HADDON HALL, FROM THE WYE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HADDON HALL, FROM THE WYE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Entering the gateway, the porter's guard-room is seen on the right hand,
+with the ancient "peephole" through which he scanned visitors before
+admitting them. Mounting the steps to the first courtyard, which is on a
+lower level than the other, the chapel and the hall are seen on either
+hand, while in front are the steps leading to the state-apartments. The
+buildings are not lofty, but there are second-floor rooms in almost all
+parts, which were occupied by the household. There is an extensive
+ball-room, while the Eagle Tower rises at one corner of the court. Many
+relics of the olden time are preserved in these apartments. The ancient
+chapel is entered by an arched doorway from the court, and consists of a
+nave, chancel, and side aisle, with an antique Norman font and a large
+high-back pew used by the family. After passing the court, the
+banquet-hall is entered, thirty-five by twenty-five feet, and rising to
+the full height of the building. In one of the doorways is a bracket to
+which an iron ring is attached, which was used, as we are told, "to
+enforce the laws of conviviality." When a guest failed to drink his
+allowance of wine he was suspended by the wrist to this ring, and the
+liquor he failed to pour down his throat was poured into his sleeve. A
+tall screen at the end of the room formed the front of a gallery, where
+on great occasions minstrels discoursed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> sweet music, while at the
+opposite end the lord and his honored guests sat on a raised dais. Here
+still stands the old table, while behind the dais a flight of stairs
+leads up to the state-apartments. Stags' heads and antlers of great age
+are on the walls. Another door opens out of the banquet-hall into the
+dining-room, the end of which is entirely taken up with a fine Gothic
+window displaying the Vernon arms and quarterings. This room is
+elaborately wainscoted. The royal arms are inscribed over the fireplace,
+and below them is the Vernon motto carved in Gothic letters:</p>
+
+<h2>
+"Drede God and Honour the Kyng."<br />
+</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 373px;">
+<img src="images/p078.jpg" width="373" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE BANQUET-HALL, HADDON HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE BANQUET-HALL, HADDON HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>An exquisite oriel window looks out from this room over the woods and
+grounds of Haddon, the recess bearing on one of its panels the head of
+Will Somers, who was Henry VIII.'s jester. The drawing-room, which is
+over the dining-room, is hung with old tapestry, above which is a frieze
+of ornamental mouldings. A pretty recessed window also gives from this
+room a delightful view over the grounds.</p>
+
+
+<p>The gem of Haddon is the long gallery or ball-room, which extends over
+one hundred feet along one side of the inner court: the semicircular
+wooden steps leading to this apartment are said to have been cut from a
+single tree that grew in the park. The gallery is wainscoted in oak in
+semicircular arched panels, alternately large and small, surmounted by a
+frieze and a turreted and battlemented cornice. The ceiling is
+elaborately carved in geometric patterns, and the tracery contains the
+alternating arms and crests of Vernon and Manners: the remains are still
+visible of the rich gilding and painting of this ceiling. In the
+anteroom paintings are hung, and from it a strongly-barred door opens
+upon a flight of stone steps leading down to the terrace and garden:
+this is "Dorothy Vernon's Door;" and across the garden another flight of
+steps leading to the terrace is known as "Dorothy Vernon's Steps." It
+was the gentle maiden's flight through this door and up these steps to
+elope with John Manners that carried the old house and all its broad
+lands into the possession of the family now owning it. The state bedroom
+is hung with Gobelin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> tapestry, illustrating &AElig;sop's fables: the state
+bed is fourteen feet high, and furnished in green silk velvet and white
+satin, embroidered by needlework, and its last occupant was George IV.
+The kitchen and range of domestic offices are extensive, and show the
+marvellous amount of cooking that was carried on in the hospitable days
+of Haddon; the kitchen has a ceiling supported by massive beams and a
+solid oak column in the centre; there are two huge fireplaces, scores of
+stoves, spits, pothooks, and hangers, large chopping-blocks, dressers,
+and tables, with attendant bakehouses, ovens, pantries, and larders;
+among the relics is an enormous salting-trough hollowed out of one
+immense block of wood. Beyond the garden or lawn, one hundred and twenty
+feet square, extends the terrace, planted with ancient yews, whose
+gnarled roots intertwine with and displace the stones. This terrace
+extends the full width of the outer or upper garden, and gives a
+charming view of the southern front of the hall.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p079.jpg" width="650" height="221" alt="THE TERRACE, HADDON HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TERRACE, HADDON HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>More romance hangs about Haddon than probably any other old baronial
+hall in England, and it has therefore been for years an endless source
+of inspiration for poets, artists, and novelists. Mrs. Radcliffe here
+laid some of the scenes of the <i>Mysteries of Udolpho</i>. Bennett's "King
+of the Peak" was Sir George Vernon, the hospitable owner of Haddon.
+Scott has written of it, a host of artists have painted its most
+attractive features, and many a poet has sung of the</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Hall of wassail which has rung</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To the unquestioned baron's jest:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dim old chapel, where were hung</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Offerings of the o'erfraught breast;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moss-clad terrace, strangely still,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Broken shaft and crumbling frieze&mdash;&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Still as lips that used to fill</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">With bugle-blasts the morning breeze."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>But, unlike most baronial strongholds, the history of Haddon tells only
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> romance of peace, love, and hospitality. It came by marriage into
+the possession of the Vernons soon after the Conquest; one of them, Sir
+Henry Vernon of Haddon, was appointed governor of Prince Arthur by Henry
+VII. His grandson, Sir George Vernon, lived in such princely
+magnificence at Haddon that he was known as the "King of the Peak;" his
+initials, "G. V.," are carved in the banquet-hall. Around his youngest
+daughter, Dorothy, gathers the chief halo of romance. The story in brief
+is, that her elder sister, being the affianced bride of the son of the
+Earl of Derby, was petted and made much of, while Dorothy, at sweet
+sixteen, was kept in the background. She formed an attachment for John
+Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland, but this her family violently
+opposed, keeping her almost a prisoner: her lover, disguised as a
+forester, lurked for weeks in the woods around Haddon, obtaining
+occasionally a stolen interview. At length on a festal night, when the
+ball-room was filled with guests summoned to celebrate the approaching
+nuptials of the elder sister, and every one was so wrapped up in
+enjoyment that there was no time to watch Dorothy, the maiden,
+unobserved, stole out of the ball-room into the anteroom, and through
+the door, across the garden, and up the steps to the terrace, where her
+lover had made a signal that he was waiting. In a moment she was in his
+arms, and rode away with him in the moonlight all night, across the
+hills of Derbyshire, and into Leicestershire, where they were married
+next morning. It was the old story&mdash;an elopement, a grand row, and then
+all was forgiven. Sir George Vernon had no sons, and his daughters
+divided his estate, Haddon going to Dorothy, who thus by her elopement
+carried the famous hall over to the family of Manners. Dorothy died in
+1584, leaving four children, the oldest, Sir George Manners, living at
+Haddon and maintaining its hospitable reputation. Dying in 1679, his son
+John Manners, who was the ninth Earl of Rutland, became the master of
+Haddon, and "kept up the good old mansion at a bountiful rate," as the
+chronicler tells us. He kept one hundred and forty servants, and had so
+many retainers and guests that every day the tables in the old
+banquet-hall were spread as at a Christmas feast. The earl was raised to
+the rank of duke, and his son John, Duke of Rutland, known as the "Old
+Man of the Hill," died in 1779, since which time the family have not
+used the hall as a place of residence, having gone to Belvoir in
+Leicestershire. Its present owner is the sixth Duke of Rutland, Charles
+Cecil Manners, and the descendant of the famous Dorothy. There are few
+places, even in England, that have the fame of Haddon, and it is one of
+the chief spots sought out by the tourist. The duke maintains it just as
+it existed centuries ago, with the old furniture and utensils, so as to
+reproduce as faithfully as possible the English baronial hall of his
+ancestors.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>CHATSWORTH.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p081-2" id="p081-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p081-2.jpg" width="650" height="455" alt="CHATSWORTH HOUSE, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHATSWORTH HOUSE, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 081-1/081-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p081-1.jpg" width="450" height="341"
+ alt="THE PEACOCK, FROM THE ROAD." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p082-1.jpg" width="234" height="400"
+ alt="MARBLE DOORWAY TO STATE DRAWING-ROOM." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE "PEACOCK," FROM THE ROAD.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">MARBLE DOORWAY TO STATE DRAWING-ROOM.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p082-2" id="p082-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p082-2.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="STATE DRAWING-ROOM, CHATSWORTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">STATE DRAWING-ROOM, CHATSWORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Below Haddon Hall the valley of the Wye broadens, with yet richer
+scenery, as it approaches the confluence of the Wye and Derwent at
+Rowsley, where the quaint old Peacock Inn, which was the manor-house of
+Haddon, bears over the door the date 1653, and the crest of the ducal
+House of Rutland, a peacock with tail displayed. Ascending for a short
+distance the valley of the Derwent, which washes the bases of the steep
+limestone hills, we come to Chatsworth. In sharp contrast with the
+ancient glories of Haddon is this modern ducal palace, for whose
+magnificence Bess of Hardwicke laid the foundation. This "Palace of the
+Peak" stands in a park covering over two thousand acres; the Derwent
+flows in front, over which the road to the palace<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> is carried by a fine
+bridge. From the river a lawn gently slopes upward to the buildings, and
+the wooded hill which rises sharply behind them is surmounted by a
+hunting-tower, embosomed in trees. A herd of at least a thousand deer
+roam at will over the park, and have become very tame. Chatsworth is a
+brownish-yellow building, square and flat-topped, with a modern and more
+ornamental wing. Its front extends fully six hundred feet, and in parts
+it is of that depth. The estate was bought in the sixteenth century by
+Sir William Cavendish, who built the original house, a quadrangular
+building with turrets, which was greatly extended by his wife. It was
+used as a fortress in the Civil Wars, and was considerably battered. The
+first Duke of Devonshire about the year 1700 rebuilt the mansion,
+employing the chief architects, artists, designers, and wood-carvers of
+his time, among them Sir Christopher Wren. In the grounds, not far from
+the bridge over the Derwent, is the "Bower of Mary Queen of Scots."
+There is a small, clear lake almost concealed by foliage, in the centre
+of which is a tower, and on the top a grass-grown garden, where are also
+several fine trees. Here, under guard, the captive was permitted to take
+the air. In those days she looked out upon a broad expanse of woods and
+moorland: now all around has been converted into gardens and a park.
+Entering the house through a magnificent gateway, the visitor is taken
+into the entrance-hall, where the frescoes represent the life and death
+of Julius C&aelig;sar; then up the grand staircase of amethyst and variegated
+alabaster guarded by richly-gilded balustrades. The
+gorgeously-embellished chapel is wainscoted with cedar, and has a
+sculptured altar made of Derbyshire marbles. The beautiful drawing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>-room
+opens into a series of state-apartments lined with choice woods and hung
+with Gobelin tapestries representing the cartoons of Raphael.
+Magnificent carvings and rare paintings adorn the walls, while the
+richest decorations are everywhere displayed. Over the door of the
+antechamber is a quill pen so finely carved that it almost reproduces
+the real feather. In the Scarlet Room are the bed on which George II.
+died and the chairs and footstools used at the coronation of George III.
+On the north side of the house is another stairway of oak, also richly
+gilded. In the apartments replacing those where Mary Queen of Scots
+lived are her bed-hangings and tapestries. There is an extensive library
+with many rare books and manuscripts, and a sculpture-gallery, lined
+with Devonshire marble, containing many statues and busts, and also two
+recumbent lions, each nine feet long and four feet high and weighing
+four tons, and carved out of a solid block of marble. The final
+enlargement of Chatsworth was completed about forty years ago, when
+Queen Victoria made a state visit and was given a magnificent reception
+by the Duke of Devonshire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p083.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="STATE BEDROOM, CHATSWORTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">STATE BEDROOM, CHATSWORTH.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p084.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, CHATSWORTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, CHATSWORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 338px;">
+<img src="images/p085-1.jpg" width="338" height="450" alt="GATEWAY TO STABLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY TO STABLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The gardens at Chatsworth are as noted as the house, and are to many
+minds the gem of the estate. They cover about one hundred and twenty-two
+acres, and are so arranged as to make a beautiful view out of every
+window of the palace. All things are provided that can add to rural
+beauty&mdash;fountains, cascades, running streams, lakes, rockeries,
+orange-groves, hothouses, woods, sylvan dells&mdash;and no labor or expense
+is spared to enhance the attractions of trees, flowers, and shrubbery.
+From a stone temple, which it completely covers, the great cascade flows
+down among dolphins, sea-lions, and nymphs, until it disappears among
+the rocks and seeks an underground outlet into the Derwent. Enormous
+stones weighing several tons are nicely balanced, so as to rock at the
+touch or swing open for gates. Others overhang the paths as if a gust of
+wind might blow them down. In honor of the visit of the Czar Nicholas in
+1844 the great "Emperor Fountain" was constructed, which throws a column
+of water to an immense height. The grounds are filled with trees planted
+by kings, queens, and great people on their visits to the palace. The
+finest of all the trees is a noble Spanish chestnut of sixteen feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+girth. Weeping willows do not grow at Chatsworth, but they have provided
+one in the form of a metal tree, contrived so as to discharge a deluge
+of raindrops from its metallic leaves and boughs when a secret spring
+is touched. The glory of the Chatsworth gardens, however, is the
+conservatory, a beautiful structure of glass and iron covering nearly an
+acre, the arched roof in the centre rising to a height of sixty-seven
+feet. In this famous hot-house are the rarest palms and tropical plants.
+It was designed by Joseph Paxton, the duke's head-gardener, and,
+enlarging the design, Paxton constructed in the same way the London
+Crystal Palace for the Exhibition of 1851, for which service he was
+knighted. Besides this rare collection of hot-house plants, the famous
+Victoria Regia is in a special house at Chatsworth, growing in a tank
+thirty-four feet in diameter, the water being maintained at the proper
+temperature and kept constantly in motion as a running stream. The seed
+for this celebrated plant was brought from Guiana, and it first bloomed
+here in 1849. Some fifty persons are employed in the gardens and
+grounds, besides the servants in the buildings, showing the retinue
+necessary to maintain this great show-palace, for that is its chief
+present use, the Duke of Devonshire seldom using it as a residence, as
+he prefers the less pretentious but more comfortable seat he possesses
+at Bolton in Yorkshire. North of Chatsworth Park, near Baslow, on top of
+a hill, is the strange mass of limestone which can be seen from afar,
+and is known as the Eagle Rock.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>MATLOCK AND DOVEDALE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 437px;">
+<a name="p085-2" id="p085-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p085-2.jpg" width="437" height="600" alt="HIGH TOR, MATLOCK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HIGH TOR, MATLOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p086-1" id="p086-1"></a><a name="p086-2" id="p086-2"></a></p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p086-1/086-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p086-1.jpg" width="296" height="400"
+ alt="THE STRAITS, DOVEDALE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><br /><br /><img src="images/p086-2.jpg" width="500" height="259"
+ alt="BANKS OF THE DOVE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE STRAITS, DOVEDALE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BANKS OF THE DOVE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p>Retracing the Derwent to the Wye again, the valley of the latter is open
+below for several miles, and then as Matlock is approached a mass of
+limestone stretching across the valley seems to bar all egress, and the
+river plunges through a narrow glen. The bold gray crags of the High Tor
+rise steeply on the left hand, and the gorge not being wide enough for
+both<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> river and railway, the latter pierces a tunnel through the High
+Tor. The river bends sharply to the right, and the village makes a long
+street along the bank and rises in terraces up the steep hill behind.
+These are the "Heights of Abraham," while the pretty slope below the
+High Tor is the "Lovers' Walk." Matlock is beautifully situated, and its
+springs are in repute, while the caves in the neighborhood give plenty
+of opportunity for that kind of exploration. The Derbyshire marbles are
+quarried all about, and mosaic manufacture is carried on. It was near
+Matlock that Arkwright first set up his cotton-spinning machine, and
+when fortune and fame had made him Sir Richard Arkwright he built
+Willersley Castle for his home, on the banks of the Derwent. The valley
+of the little river Dove also presents some fine scenery, especially in
+the fantastic shapes of its rocks. The river runs between steep hills
+fringed with ash and oak and hawthorn, and Dovedale can be pursued for
+miles with interest. One of its famous resorts is the old and
+comfortable Izaak Walton<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Inn, sacred to anglers. In Dovedale are the
+rocks called the Twelve Apostles, the Tissington Spires, the Pickering
+Tor, the caverns known as the Dove Holes, and Reynard's Hall, while the
+entire stream is full of memories of those celebrated fishermen of two
+centuries ago, Walton and his friend Cotton.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p087.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="TISSINGTON SPIRES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TISSINGTON SPIRES.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BEAUCHIEF ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<p>Before leaving Derbyshire the ruin of Beauchief Abbey, which gave the
+name of Abbey Dale to one of the pleasant vales on the eastern border of
+the county, must not be forgotten. It was built seven hundred years ago,
+and there remains but a single fragment of this famous religious house,
+the arch of the great east window. Singularly enough, under the same
+roof with the abbey was built an inn, and at a short distance there is a
+hermitage: the hermit's cave is scooped out of a rock elevated above the
+valley and overhung with foliage. We are told that a pious baker lived
+in the town of Derby who was noted for his exemplary life: the Virgin
+Mary, as a proof of his faith, required him to relinquish all his
+worldly goods and go to Deepdale and lead a solitary life in Christ's
+service. He did as he was told, departed from Derby, but had no idea
+where he was to go; directing his footsteps towards the east, he passed
+through a village, and heard a woman instruct a girl to drive some
+calves to Deepdale. Regarding this as an interposition of Providence,
+the baker, encouraged, asked where was Deepdale; the woman told the girl
+to show him. Arrived there, he found it marshy land, distant from any
+human habitation; but, seeking a rising ground, he cut a small dwelling
+in a rock under the side of a hill, built an altar, and there spent day
+and night in the Divine service, with hunger and cold, thirst and want.
+Now, it happened that a person<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> of great consequence owned this
+land&mdash;Ralph, the son of Geremund&mdash;and coming to the woods to hunt, he
+saw smoke rising from the hermit's cave, and was filled with
+astonishment that any one should have dared to establish a dwelling
+there without his permission. Going to the place, he found the hermit
+clothed in old rags and skins, and, inquiring about his case, Ralph's
+anger changed to pity. To show his compassion, he granted the hermit the
+ground where the hermitage stood, and also for his support the tithe of
+a mill not far away. The tradition further relates "that the old Enemy
+of the human race" then endeavored to make the hermit dissatisfied with
+his condition, but "he resolutely endured all its calamities," and
+ultimately he built a cottage and oratory, and ended his days in the
+service of God. After his death, Ralph's daughter prevailed upon her
+husband to dedicate Deepdale to religious uses, and he inviting the
+canons, they built the abbey. We are told in Howitt's <i>Forest Minstrel</i>
+of the wonder caused by the construction of the abbey, and also how in
+later years the monks became corrupted by prosperity. A place is shown
+to visitors where the wall between the chapel and the inn gave way to
+the thirsty zeal of the monks, and through an opening their favorite
+liquor was handed. The <i>Forest Minstrel</i> tells us they</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Forsook missal and mass</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To chant o'er a bottle or shrive a lass;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">No matin's bell called them up in the morn,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But the yell of the hounds and sound of the horn;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">No penance the monk in his cell could stay</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But a broken leg or a rainy day:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pilgrim that came to the abbey-door,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With the feet of the fallow-deer found it nailed o'er;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pilgrim that into the kitchen was led.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On Sir Gilbert's venison there was fed.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And saw skins and antlers hang o'er his head."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h3>STAFFORD AND TRENTHAM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p089" id="p089"></a>
+<img src="images/p089.jpg" width="600" height="252" alt="TRENTHAM HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TRENTHAM HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rivers which drain the limestone hills of Derbyshire unite to form
+the Trent, and this stream, after a winding and picturesque course
+through Midland England towards the eastward, flows into the Humber, and
+ultimately into the North Sea. Its first course after leaving Derby is
+through Staffordshire, one of the great manufacturing counties of
+England, celebrated for its potteries, whose product Josiah Wedgewood so
+greatly improved. The county-seat is Stafford, on the Sow River, not far
+from the Trent Valley, and on a high hill south-west of the town are the
+remains of the castle of the Barons, of Stafford, originally built a
+thousand years ago by the Saxons to keep the Danes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> in check. This
+castle was destroyed and rebuilt by William the Conqueror; again
+destroyed and again rebuilt by Ralph de Stafford in Edward III.'s reign.
+In the Civil Wars this castle was one of the last strongholds of King
+Charles I., but it was ultimately taken by Cromwell's troops and
+demolished, excepting the keep; a massive castellated building of modern
+construction now occupies its place. The river Trent, in its winding
+course, forms near Trentham a fine lake, and the beautiful neighborhood
+has been availed of for the establishment of the splendid residence of
+the Duke of Sutherland, about a mile west of the village, and known as
+Trentham Hall. The park is extensive, the gardens are laid out around
+the lake, and the noble Italian building, which is of recent
+construction, has a fine campanile tower one hundred feet high, and
+occupies a superb situation. The old church makes part of Trentham Hall,
+and contains monuments of the duke's family and ancestors, the
+Leveson-Gowers, whose extensive estates cover a wide domain in
+Staffordshire. Trentham, which is in the pottery district and not far
+from Newcastle-under-Lyme, was originally a monastery, founded by St.
+Werburgh, niece of &AElig;thelred. She was one of the most famous of the
+Anglo-Saxon saints, and some venerable yews still mark the spot where
+her original house stood, it being known as Tricengham. These yews, said
+to have been planted about that time, form three sides of a square. The
+religious house, rebuilt in William Rufus's reign, was given, at the
+dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII., to his brother-in-law,
+Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and it afterwards came into possession
+of the Levesons. From the marriage of a daughter of Sir John Leveson
+with Sir Thomas Gower sprang the family of the present ducal house of
+Sutherland, the head of it being created Marquis of Stafford in 1786 and
+Duke of Sutherland in 1833. The present duke is the third who has held
+the title, his mother having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> been the daughter of the Earl of
+Carlisle&mdash;the famous Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland. The old Trentham
+Hall was built in 1633, being rebuilt and enlarged by Sir Charles Barry
+about fifty years ago.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p090.jpg" width="650" height="530" alt="TRENTHAM HALL&mdash;ON THE TERRACE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TRENTHAM HALL&mdash;ON THE TERRACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>TAMWORTH AND TUTBURY.</h3>
+
+<p>Staffordshire contains some famous places. In the eastern part of the
+county, bordering Warwick, is the ancient town of Tamworth, standing
+upon the little river Tame; this was originally a fortification built
+for defence against the Danes, and its castle was founded by Marmion, of
+whom Scott writes,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"They hailed Lord Marmion,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">They hailed him Lord of Fontenaye,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of Tamworth tower and town."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Tamworth is also Shakespearian ground, for here Richmond halted on his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+march to Bosworth Field, and made a stirring address to inspire his
+forces for the coming combat. In later years Tamworth sent Sir Robert
+Peel to Parliament, and his bronze statue adorns the market-square; the
+ruins of the ancient castle are almost obliterated, and the present
+castle is upon higher ground, its architecture being of various periods.
+Tutbury Castle, of which little is left but a straggling mass of ruins,
+stands on an eminence overlooking the Dove, and crowns a ridge of red
+sandstone rock: it was a great stronghold, founded by John of Gaunt,
+covering several acres, and was demolished after the Civil Wars. This
+castle, like so many other famous places, was also one of the
+prison-palaces of Mary Queen of Scots; although the castle is destroyed,
+yet near by is its parish church of St. Mary, founded by Henry de
+Ferrars in the reign of William Rufus, and known then as Ferrars Abbey:
+its west end is one of the most perfect Norman fronts remaining in
+England, and it has been carefully restored. Tutbury is known for some
+of its ancient customs, among them the annual bull-running. A minstrel
+band, after devotions and a long sermon in the abbey, had an excellent
+dinner in the castle, and then repairing to the abbey-gate demanded the
+bull; the prior let the bull out, with his horns and tail cut off, his
+ears cropped, his body greased, and his nostrils filled with pepper to
+make him furious. The bull being let loose, the steward proclaimed that
+none were to come nearer than forty feet, nor to hinder the minstrels,
+but all were to attend to their own safety. The minstrels were to
+capture the bull before sunset, and on that side of the river, but if
+they failed or he escaped across the stream, he remained the lord's
+property. It was seldom possible to take him fairly, but if he was held
+long enough to cut off some of his hair it was considered a capture, and
+after a bull-baiting he was given to the minstrels. Thus originated the
+Tutbury bull-running, which ultimately degenerated into a scene of wild
+debauchery, often resulting in a terrible riot. The Duke of Devonshire,
+when he came into possession of Tutbury, was compelled to abolish the
+custom. About six miles from Stafford is Chartley Castle, dating from
+the Conquest, and belonging to the Earls of Chester and Derby, and
+subsequently to the famous Earl of Essex, who here entertained Queen
+Elizabeth, and afterwards planned the plot for which she signed his
+death-warrant. This castle has been many years in ruins: it had a
+circular keep about fifty feet in diameter, and the present remains are
+chiefly the fragments of two round towers and part of a wall twelve feet
+thick, with loopholes constructed for shooting arrows at an attacking
+force. Queen Mary was also imprisoned here, and a bed said to have been
+wrought by her is shown in the village. This unfortunate queen seems to
+have had more prisons and wrought more needlework than any other woman
+in Britain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>ALTON TOWERS.</h3>
+
+<p>Alton Towers, the superb home of the Earl of Shrewsbury, is also in
+Staffordshire, and is one of the famous seats of England. The estate
+stands on the Churnet, and the house and grounds are on one side of its
+deep valley. The present mansion, a modern Gothic structure, was built
+about fifty years ago on a rocky plateau overlooking the valley. An
+extensive park surrounds the mansion, and there are several entrances.
+Of these Quicksall Lodge ushers the visitor to a magnificent approach
+known as the "Earl's Drive," extending three miles along the valley of
+the Churnet, and having its natural advantages increased by the profuse
+distribution along the route of statues, busts, and ornamental vases.
+Another entrance is from the railway-station, where is a lodge of great
+beauty, from which the road, about a mile in length, gradually ascends
+to the eminence where the mansion stands. The approach by both roads is
+fine, and through the intervening foliage the Towers open upon the
+view&mdash;rich in spire, dome, and gable, and with their fair proportions
+enhanced by the arcades that adorn the house and the antique stone
+setting that brings out the majesty of the Gothic architecture. The
+gardens of this fine place are beautiful, their extent being made
+apparently greater than in reality by the artificially-formed terraces
+and other resources of the landscape artist. The grounds are most
+lavishly ornamented with statuary, vases, temples, and fountains, while
+gardening is carried to perfection. There is a grand conservatory,
+containing a palm-house and orangery. From the top of an elaborate
+Gothic temple four stories high there is a fine view, while the Flag
+Tower, a massive building with four turrets, and six stories high, is
+used as an observatory. There is a delightful retreat for the weary
+sightseer called the Refuge, a fine imitation of Stonehenge, and Ina's
+Rock, where Ina, king of Wessex, held a parliament after his battle with
+the king of Mercia. The picturesque ruins of Alton Castle and convent
+are in the grounds, also the ruins of Croxden Abbey and the charming
+Alton Church, which was of Norman foundation. The castle existed at the
+time of the Conquest, and the domain in 1408, through the marriage of
+Maude Neville to John Talbot, was brought into the possession of the
+present family. Talbot having been afterwards made the first Earl of
+Shrewsbury. This was the famous English warrior who was so feared in
+France, where he conducted brilliant campaigns, that "with his name the
+mothers stilled their babes." He was killed at the siege of Chatillon in
+his eightieth year. It was the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury who married Bess
+of Hardwicke and made her fourth husband. It was the fifteenth Earl of
+Shrewsbury who erected the present magnificent structure, with its
+varied turrets and battlements, for his summer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> residence, where before
+stood a plain house known as Alton Lodge. Upon his tomb, in memory of
+the wonderful change he wrought in the place, is the significant motto:
+"He made the desert smile." The nineteenth earl is now in possession.</p>
+
+
+<h3>SHREWSBURY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p093.jpg" width="650" height="518" alt="SHREWSBURY CASTLE, FROM THE RAILWAY-STATION." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHREWSBURY CASTLE, FROM THE RAILWAY-STATION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Westward of Stafford is the land of the "proud Salopians," Shropshire,
+through which flows the Severn, on whose banks stands the ancient town
+from which the Earls of Shrewsbury take their title. We are told that
+the Britons founded this town, and that in Edward the Confessor's time
+it had five churches and two hundred and thirty houses, fifty-one of
+which were cleared away to make room for the castle erected by Roger de
+Montgomery, a kinsman of William the Conqueror. The Norman king created
+him Earl of Shrewsbury long before the present line of earls began with
+John Talbot. Wars raged around the castle: it was besieged and battered,
+for it stood an outpost in the borderland of Wales. It was here that
+Henry IV. assembled an army to march against Glendower, and in the
+following year fought the battle of Shrewsbury against Hotspur, then
+marching to join Glendower. Hot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>spur's death decided the battle. The
+Wars of the Roses were fought around the town, and here Henry VII., then
+the Earl of Richmond, slept when going to Bosworth Field; and in the
+Civil Wars King Charles had Shrewsbury's support, but Cromwell's forces
+captured it. The town is on a fine peninsula almost encircled by the
+Severn, and the castle stands at the entrance to the peninsula. Only the
+square keep and part of the inner walls remain of the original castle,
+but a fine turret has been added by modern hands. In the neighborhood of
+Shrewsbury are the remains of the Roman city of Uriconium, said to have
+been destroyed by the Saxons in the sixth century. Shrewsbury has always
+been famous for pageants, its annual show being a grand display by the
+trade societies. It is also famous for its cakes, of which Shenstone
+says:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p094-1.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="HEAD-QUARTERS OF HENRY VII. ON HIS WAY TO BOSWORTH FIELD,
+SHREWSBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HEAD-QUARTERS OF HENRY VII. ON HIS WAY TO BOSWORTH FIELD,
+SHREWSBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p094-2" id="p094-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p094-2.jpg" width="500" height="358" alt="ON BATTLEFIELD ROAD, SHREWSBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ON BATTLEFIELD ROAD, SHREWSBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"And here each season do those cakes abide,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose honored names the inventive city own,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The great Shrewsbury cake is the "simnel," made like a pie, the crust
+colored with saffron and very thick. It is a confection said to be
+unsafe when eaten to excess, for an old gentleman, writing from
+melancholy experience in 1595, records that "sodden bread which bee
+called simnels bee verie unwholesome." The Shropshire legend about its
+origin is that a happy couple<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> got into a dispute whether they should
+have for dinner a boiled pudding or a baked pie. While they disputed
+they got hungry, and came to a compromise by first boiling and then
+baking the dish that was prepared. To the grand result of the double
+process&mdash;his name being Simon and her's Nell&mdash;the combined name of
+simnel was given. And thus from their happily-settled contention has
+come Shrewsbury's great cake, of which all England acknowledges the
+merit.</p>
+
+
+<h3>BRIDGENORTH AND WENLOCK ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p095" id="p095"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">BRIDGENORTH AND WENLOCK ABBEY.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p095sandbag.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:630px; height:400px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:120px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p><br /><br /><br />Following down the Severn River from Shrewsbury, we come to Bridgenorth,
+an ancient town planted on a steep hill, full of quaint houses, and
+having an old covered market where the country-people gather on
+Saturdays. The lower part is of brick, and the upper part is
+black-and-white-timbered, but the human love for what is old and
+familiar is shown by the way in which the people still fill up the old
+market-house, though a fine new one has recently been built. The most
+prized of the old houses of this venerable town is a foundry and
+blacksmith shop standing by the river; it was in this house that Bishop
+Percy, author of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> <i>Reliques</i>, was born. On the promontory of
+sandstone, which steeply rises about one hundred and eighty feet above
+the river, the upper part of the town is built, and here are the ruins
+of Bridgenorth Castle, which stood in an exceptionally strong situation.
+The red sandstone predominates here, but not much of it remains in the
+castle, there being little left excepting a huge fragment of the massive
+wall of the keep, which now inclines so much on one side from the
+settlement of the foundation as to be almost unsafe. This castle was
+built eight hundred years ago by the third and last of the Norman Earls
+of Shrewsbury: it was held for King Charles in the Civil Wars, and
+underwent a month's siege before it surrendered, when the conquerors
+destroyed it. Bridgenorth is the most picturesque of all the towns on
+the Severn, owing to the steep promontory up which the houses extend
+from the lower to the upper town and the magnificent views from the
+castle. The communication with the hill is by a series of
+steeply-winding alleys, each being almost a continuous stairway: they
+are known as the "Steps." A bridge with projecting bastions crosses the
+river and connects the higher with the lower parts of the town, thus
+giving the place its name.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>About twelve miles south-east of Shrewsbury is the village of Much
+Wenlock, where there are remains of a magnificent abbey founded by the
+Black monks, and exhibiting several of the Early English and Gothic
+styles of architecture, but, like most else in these parts, it has
+fallen in ruin, and many of the materials have been carried off to build
+other houses. Portions of the nave, transepts, chapter-house, and
+abbot's house remain, the latter being restored and making a fine
+spe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>cimen of ecclesiastical domestic architecture built around a court.
+An open cloister extends the entire length of the house. There are
+beautiful intersecting Norman arches in the chapter-house. There are
+some quaint old houses in the town&mdash;timbered structures with bold
+bow-windows&mdash;and not a few of them of great age. Roger de Montgomery is
+credited with founding Wenlock Abbey at the time of the Norman Conquest.
+The site was previously occupied by a nunnery, said to have been the
+burial-place of St. Milburgh, who was the granddaughter of King Penda of
+Mercia. This was a famous religious house in its day, and it makes a
+picturesque ruin, while the beauty of the neighboring scenery shows how
+careful the recluses and religious men of old were to cast their lots
+and build their abbeys in pleasant places.</p>
+
+<p><a name="p0961" id="p0961"></a></p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p096-1/096-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p096-1.jpg" width="303" height="450"
+ alt="HOUSE WHERE BISHOP PERCY WAS BORN, BRIDGENORTH." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p096-2.jpg" width="317" height="450"
+ alt="LODGE OF MUCH WENLOCK ABBEY." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">HOUSE WHERE BISHOP PERCY WAS BORN, BRIDGENORTH.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">LODGE OF MUCH WENLOCK ABBEY.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 392px;">
+<a name="p097" id="p097"></a>
+<img src="images/p097.jpg" width="392" height="500" alt=" WENLOCK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WENLOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h3>LUDLOW CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p098" id="p098"></a>
+<img src="images/p098.jpg" width="600" height="434" alt="LUDLOW CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LUDLOW CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The most important of all the castles in the middle marches of Wales was
+Ludlow, whose grand ruins, mouldered into beauty, stand upon the river
+Tame, near the western border of Shropshire. It was here that the lord
+president of the Council of Wales held his court. Its ruins, though
+abandoned, have not fallen into complete decay, so that it gives a fine
+representation of the ancient feudal border stronghold: it is of great
+size, with long stretches of walls and towers, interspersed with thick
+masses of foliage and stately trees, while beneath is the dark rock on
+which it is founded. It was built shortly after the Conquest by Roger de
+Montgomery, and after being held by the Norman Earls of Shrewsbury it
+was fortified by Henry I.: then Joyce de Dinan held it, and confined
+Hugh de Mortimer as prisoner in one of the towers, still known as
+Mortimer's Tower. Edward IV. established it as the place of residence
+for the lord president of the Council that governed Wales: here the
+youthful King Edward V. was proclaimed, soon to mysteriously disappear.
+From Ludlow Castle, Wales was governed for more than three centuries,
+and in Queen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> Elizabeth's time many important additions were made to it.
+The young Philip Sidney lived here, his father being the lord president;
+the stone bridge, replacing the drawbridge, and the great portal were
+built at that time. In 1634, Milton's "Masque of Comus" was represented
+here while Earl Bridgewater was lord president, one of the scenes being
+the castle and town of Ludlow: this representation was part of the
+festivities attending the earl's installation on Michaelmas Night. It
+was in Ludlow Castle that Butler wrote part of <i>Hudibras</i>. The castle
+was held for King Charles, but was delivered up to the Parliamentary
+forces in 1646. The present exterior of the castle denotes its former
+magnificence. The foundations are built into a dark gray rock, and the
+castle rises from the point of a headland, the northern front consisting
+of square towers with high, connecting embattled walls. In the last
+century trees were planted on the rock and in the deep and wide ditch
+that guarded the castle. The chief entrance is by a gateway under a low,
+pointed arch which bears the arms of Queen Elizabeth and of Earl
+Pembroke. There are several acres enclosed, and the keep is an immense
+square tower of the Early Norman, one hundred and ten feet high and
+ivy-mantled to the top. On its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> ground floor is the dungeon, half
+underground, with square openings in the floor connecting with the
+apartment above. The great hall is now without roof or floor, and a
+tower at the west end is called Prince Arthur's Tower, while there are
+also remains of the old chapel. The ruins have an imposing aspect, the
+towers being richly clustered around the keep. This famous castle is now
+the property of Earl Powis.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 297px;">
+<img src="images/p099.jpg" width="297" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE COUNCIL-CHAMBER, LUDLOW CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE COUNCIL-CHAMBER, LUDLOW CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The town of Ludlow adjoins the castle, and on approaching it the visitor
+is struck by the fine appearance of the tower of the church of St.
+Lawrence. The church is said to be the finest in Shropshire, and this
+tower was built in the time of Edward IV. Its chantry is six hundred
+years old, and belonged to the Palmers' guild. Their ordinances are
+still preserved, one of which is to the effect that "if any man wishes,
+as is the custom, to keep night-watches with the dead, this may be
+allowed, provided that he does not call up ghosts." The town is filled
+with timber-ribbed, pargetted houses, one of the most striking of these
+being the old Feathers Inn. The exterior is rich in various devices,
+including the feathers of the Prince of Wales, adopted as the sign
+perhaps in the days of Prince Arthur, when the inn was built. Many of
+the rooms are panelled with carved oak and have quaintly moulded
+ceilings. It is not often that the modern tourist has a chance to rest
+under such a venerable roof, for it is still a comfortable hostelrie.
+The ancient priory of Austin Friars was at Ludlow, but is obliterated.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighborhood of Ludlow are many attractive spots. From the summit
+of the Vignals, about four miles away, there is a superb view over the
+hills of Wales to the south and west, and the land of Shropshire to the
+northward. Looking towards Ludlow, immediately at the foot of the hill
+is seen the wooded valley of Hay Park: it was here that the children of
+the Earl of Bridgewater were lost, an event that gave Milton occasion to
+write the "Masque of Comus,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> and locate its scenes at and in the
+neighborhood of Ludlow. Richard's Castle is at the southern end of this
+wood, but there is not much of the old ruin left in the deep dingle. At
+Downton Castle the romantic walks in the gardens abound in an almost
+endless variety of ferns. Staunton Lacey Church, containing Romanesque
+work, and supposed to be older than the Conquest, is also near Ludlow.
+But the grand old castle and its quaint and venerated Feathers Inn are
+the great attractions before which all others pale. What an amazing tale
+of revelry, pageant, and intrigue they could tell were only the old
+walls endowed with voice!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 387px;">
+<img src="images/p100.jpg" width="387" height="550" alt="THE &quot;FEATHERS&quot; HOTEL, LUDLOW." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;FEATHERS&quot; HOTEL, LUDLOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 508px;">
+<a name="p101" id="p101"></a>
+<img src="images/p101.jpg" width="508" height="600" alt="LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>We are told that in Central Staffordshire churches with spires are rare.
+The region of the Trent abounds in low and simple rather than lofty
+church-towers, but to this rule the cathedral city of Lichfield is an
+exception, having five steeples, of which three beautiful spires&mdash;often
+called the "Ladies of the Vale"&mdash;adorn the cathedral itself. The town
+stands in a fertile and gently undulating district without ambitious
+scenery, and the cathedral, which is three hundred and seventy-five feet
+long and its spires two hundred and fifty-eight feet high, is its great
+and almost only glory. It is an ancient place, dating from the days of
+the Romans and the Saxons, when the former slaughtered without mercy a
+band of the early Christian martyrs near the present site of the town,
+whence it derives its name, meaning the "Field of the Dead." This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+massacre took place in the fourth century, and in memory of it the city
+bears as its arms "an escutcheon of landscape, with many martyrs in it
+in several ways massacred." In the seventh century a church was built
+there, and the hermit St. Chad became its bishop. His cell was near the
+present site of Stowe, where there was a spring of clear water rising in
+the heart of a forest, and out of the woods there daily came a
+snow-white doe to supply him with milk. The legend tells that the
+nightingales singing in the trees distracted the hermit's prayers, so he
+besought that he might be relieved from this trial; and since that time
+the nightingales in the woods of Stowe have remained mute. After death
+the hermit-bishop was canonized and Lichfield flourished, at least one
+of his successors being an archbishop. St. Chad's Well is still pointed
+out at Stowe, but his Lichfield church long ago disappeared. A Norman
+church succeeded it in the eleventh century, and has also been removed,
+though some of its foundations remain under the present cathedral choir.
+About the year 1200 the first parts of the present cathedral were built,
+and it was over a hundred years in building. Its architecture is Early
+English and Decorated, the distinguishing features being the three
+spires, the beautiful western front, and the Lady Chapel. The latter
+terminates in a polygonal apse of unique arrangement, and the red
+sandstone of which the cathedral is built gives a warm and effective
+coloring. Some of the ancient bishops of Lichfield were fighting men,
+and at times their cathedral was made into a castle surrounded by walls
+and a moat, and occasionally besieged. The Puritans grievously battered
+it, and knocked down the central spire. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> cathedral was afterwards
+rebuilt by Christopher Wren, and the work of restoration is at present
+going on. As all the old stained glass was knocked out of the windows
+during the Civil Wars, several of them have been refilled with fine
+glass from the abbey at Li&egrave;ge. Most of the ancient monuments were also
+destroyed during the sieges, but many fine tombs of more modern
+construction replace them, among them being the famous tomb by Chantrey
+of the "Sleeping Children." The ancient chroniclers tell bad stories of
+the treatment this famous church received during the Civil Wars. When
+the spire was knocked down, crushing the roof, a marksman in the church
+shot Lord Brooke, the leader of the Parliamentary besiegers, through his
+helmet, of which the visor was up, and he fell dead. The marksman was a
+deaf and dumb man, and the event happened on St. Chad's Day, March 2d.
+The loss of their leader redoubled the ardor of the besiegers; they set
+a battery at work and forced a surrender in three days. Then we are told
+that they demolished monuments, pulled down carvings, smashed the
+windows, destroyed the records, set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> up guard-houses in the
+cross-aisles, broke up the pavement, every day hunted a cat through the
+church, so as to enjoy the echo from the vaulted roof, and baptized a
+calf at the font. The Royalists, however, soon retook Lichfield, and
+gave King Charles a reception after the battle of Naseby, but it finally
+surrendered to Cromwell in 1646. Until the Restoration of Charles II.
+the cathedral lay in ruins, even the lead having been removed from the
+roof. In 1661, Bishop Hacket was consecrated, and for eight years he
+steadily worked at rebuilding, having so far advanced in 1669 that the
+cathedral was reconsecrated with great ceremony. His last work was to
+order the bells, three of which were hung in time to toll at his
+funeral; his tomb is in the south aisle of the choir.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;">
+<a name="p102" id="p102"></a>
+<img src="images/p102-1.jpg" width="389" height="600" alt="INTERIOR LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, LOOKING WEST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, LOOKING WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 323px;">
+<a name="p1022" id="p1022"></a>
+<img src="images/p102-2.jpg" width="323" height="500" alt="LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, REAR VIEW." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, REAR VIEW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
+<a name="p103" id="p103"></a>
+<img src="images/p103.jpg" width="359" height="500" alt="DR. JOHNSON&#39;S BIRTHPLACE, LICHFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DR. JOHNSON&#39;S BIRTHPLACE, LICHFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Lichfield has five steeples grouped together in most views of the town
+from the Vale of Trent, the other two steeples belonging to St. Mary's
+and St. Michael's churches; the churchyard of the latter is probably the
+largest in England, covering seven acres, through which an avenue of
+stately elms leads up to the church. The town has not much else in the
+way of buildings that is remarkable. In a plain house at a corner of the
+market-place, where lived one Michael Johnson, a bookseller, Dr. Samuel
+Johnson, his son, was born in 1709. and in the adjacent market-place is
+Dr. Johnson's statue upon a pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs: one of
+these represents the "infant Samuel" sitting on his father's shoulder to
+imbibe Tory principles from Dr. Sacheverel's sermons: another, the boy
+carried by his schoolfellows: and a third displays him undergoing a
+penance for youthful disobedience by standing up for an hour bareheaded
+in the rain. The "Three Crowns Inn" is also in the market-place, where
+in 1776 Boswell and Johnson stayed, and, as Boswell writes, "had a
+comfortable supper and got into high spirits," when Johnson "expatiated
+in praise of Lichfield and its inhabitants, who, he said, were the most
+sober, decent people in England, were the genteelest in proportion to
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> wealth, and spoke the purest English." David Garrick went to
+school to Dr. Johnson in the suburbs of Lichfield, at Edial; Addison
+lived once at Lichfield; and Selwyn was its bishop a few years ago, and
+is buried in the Cathedral close; but the chief memories of the ancient
+town cluster around St. Chad, Johnson, and Garrick.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LADY GODIVA OF COVENTRY.</h3>
+
+<p>The "three spires" which have so much to do with the fame of Lichfield
+are reproduced in the less pretentious but equally famous town of
+Coventry, not far away in Warwickshire, but they do not all belong to
+the same church. The Coventry Cathedral was long ago swept away, but the
+town still has three churches of much interest, and is rich in the old
+brick-and-timbered architecture of two and three centuries ago. But the
+boast of Coventry is Lady Godiva, wife of the Earl of Mercia, who died
+in 1057. The townsfolk suffered under heavy taxes and services, and she
+besought her lord to relieve them. After steady refusals he finally
+consented, but under a condition which he was sure Lady Godiva would not
+accept, which was none other than that she should ride naked from one
+end of the town to the other. To his astonishment she consented, and, as
+Dugdale informs us, "The noble lady upon an appointed day got on
+horseback naked, with her hair loose, so that it covered all her body
+but the legs, and then performing her journey, she returned with joy to
+her husband, who thereupon granted the inhabitants a charter of
+freedom." The inhabitants deserted the streets and barred all the
+windows, so that no one could see her, but, as there are exceptions to
+all rules, Tennyson writes that</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"One low churl, composed of thankless earth,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The fatal byword of all years to come,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boring a little auger-hole, in fear</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Peeped; but his eyes, before they had their will,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Were shrivelled into darkness in his head,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And drop: before him. So the Powers who wait</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On noble deeds cancelled a sense misused;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And she, that knew not, passed."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Thus has "Peeping Tom of Coventry" passed into a byword, and his statue
+stands in a niche on the front of a house on the High Street, as if
+leaning out of a window&mdash;an ancient and battered effigy for all the
+world to see. Like all other things that come down to us by tradition,
+this legend is doubted, but in Coventry there are sincere believers, and
+"Lady Godiva's Procession" used to be an annual display, closing with a
+fair: this ceremony was opened by religious services, after which the
+procession started, the troops and city authorities,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> with music and
+banners, escorting Lady Godiva, a woman made up for the occasion in
+gauzy tights and riding a cream-colored horse; representatives of the
+trades and civic societies followed her. This pageant has fallen into
+disuse.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/p105.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="COVENTRY GATEWAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">COVENTRY GATEWAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In this ancient city of Coventry there are some interesting memorials of
+the past&mdash;the venerable gateway, the old St. Mary's Hall, with its
+protruding gable fronting on the street, coming down to us from the
+fourteenth century, and many other quaint brick and half-timbered and
+strongly-constructed houses that link the dim past with the active
+present. Its three spires surmount St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ
+churches, and while all are fine, the first is the best, being regarded
+as one of the most beautiful spires in England. The ancient stone pulpit
+of Trinity Church, constructed in the form of a balcony of open
+stone-work, is also much admired. St. Michael's Church, which dates from
+the fourteenth century, is large enough to be a cathedral, and its
+steeple is said to have been the first constructed. This beautiful and
+remarkably slender spire rises three hundred and three feet, its lowest
+stage being an octagonal lantern supported by flying buttresses. The
+supporting tower has been elaborately decorated, but much of the
+sculpture has fallen into decay, being made of the rich but friable red
+sandstone of this part of the country; the interior of the church has
+recently been restored. The Coventry workhouse is located in an old
+monastery, where a part of the cloisters remain, with the dormitory
+above; in it is an oriel window where Queen Elizabeth on visiting the
+town is reputed to have stood and answered a reception address in rhyme
+from the "Men of Coventrie" with some doggerel of equal merit, and
+concluding with the words, "Good Lord, what fools ye be!" The good Queen
+Bess, we are told, liked to visit Coventry to see bull-baiting. As we
+have said, Coventry formerly had a cathedral and a castle, but both have
+been swept away; it was an important stronghold after the Norman
+Conquest, when the Earls of Chester were lords of the place. In the
+fourteenth century it was fortified with walls of great height and
+thickness, three miles in circuit and strengthened by thirty-two towers,
+each of the twelve gates being defended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> by a portcullis. A parliament
+was held at Coventry by Henry VI., and Henry VII. was heartily welcomed
+there after Bosworth Field; while the town was also a favorite residence
+of Edward the Black Prince. Among the many places of captivity for Mary
+Queen of Scots Coventry also figures; the walls were mostly knocked down
+during the Civil Wars, and now only some fragments, with one of the old
+gates, remain. In later years it has been chiefly celebrated in the
+peaceful arts in the manufacture of silks and ribbons and the dyeing of
+broad-cloth in "Coventry true blue;" at present it is the "Coventry
+bicycle" that makes Lady Godiva's ancient city famous, and provides
+amusement for youth who are able to balance their bodies possibly at the
+expense of their minds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/p106.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="COVENTRY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">COVENTRY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BELVOIR CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p>In describing the ancient baronial mansion, Haddon Hall, it was
+mentioned that the Dukes of Rutland had abandoned it as their residence
+about a hundred years ago and gone to Belvoir in Leicestershire. Belvoir
+(pronounced Beever) Castle stands on the eastern border of
+Leicestershire, in a magnificent situation on a high wooded hill, and
+gets its name from the beautiful view its occupants enjoy over a wide
+expanse of country. In ancient times it was a priory, and it has been a
+castle since the Norman Conquest. Many of the large estates attached to
+Belvoir have come down by uninterrupted succession from that time to the
+present Duke of Rutland. The castle itself, however, after the Conquest
+belonged to the Earl of Chester, and afterwards to the family of Lord
+Ros. In the sixteenth century, by a fortunate marriage, the castle
+passed into the Manners family. Thomas Manners was created by Henry
+VIII. the first Earl of Rutland, and he restored the castle, which had
+for some time been in ruins. His son enlarged it, making a noble
+residence. The sixth Earl of Rutland had two sons, we are told, who were
+murdered by witchcraft at Belvoir through the sorcery of three female
+servants in revenge for their dismissal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> The three "witches" were tried
+and committed to Lincoln jail. They were a mother and two daughters, and
+the mother before going to the jail wished the bread and butter she ate
+might choke her if guilty. Sure enough, the chronicler tells us, she
+died on the way to jail, and the two daughters, afterwards confessing
+their guilt, were executed March 11, 1618. The seventh Earl of Rutland
+received Charles I. at Belvoir, and in the wars that followed the castle
+was besieged and ruined. After the Restoration it was rebuilt, and in
+finer style. The Dukes of Rutland began to adapt it more and more as a
+family residence, and, after abandoning Haddon Hall, Belvoir was greatly
+altered and made a princely mansion. It consists of a quadrangular
+court, around which are castellated buildings, with towers surmounting
+them, and occupying almost the entire summit of the hill. Here the duke
+can look out over no less than twenty-two of his manors in the
+neighboring valleys. The interior is sumptuously furnished, and has a
+collection of valuable paintings. A large part of the ancient castle was
+burnt in 1816. The Staunton Tower, however, still exists. It is the
+stronghold of the castle, and was successfully defended by Lord Staunton
+against William of Normandy. Upon every royal visit the key of this
+tower is presented to the sovereign, the last occasion being a visit of
+Queen Victoria. Belvoir, in the generous hands of the Dukes of Rutland,
+still maintains the princely hospitality of the "King of the Peak." A
+record kept of a recent period of thirteen weeks, from Christmas to
+Easter, shows that two thousand persons dined at the duke's table, two
+thousand four hundred and twenty-one in the steward's room, and eleven
+thousand three hundred and twelve in the servants' hall. They were
+blessed with good appetites too, for they devoured about $7000 worth of
+provisions, including eight thousand three hundred and thirty-three
+loaves of bread and twenty-two thousand nine hundred and sixty-three
+pounds of meat, exclusive of game, besides drinking two thousand four
+hundred bottles of wine and seventy hogsheads of ale. Thus does Belvoir
+maintain the inheritance of hospitable obligation descended from Haddon
+Hall.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CHARNWOOD FOREST.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p108" id="p108"></a>
+<img src="images/p108.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="RUINS OF BRADGATE HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF BRADGATE HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We have now come into Leicestershire, and in that county, north of
+Leicester City, is the outcropping of the earth's rocky backbone, which
+has been thrust up into high wooded hills along the edge of the valley
+of the Soar for several miles, and is known as Charnwood Forest. It
+hardly deserves the name of a forest, however, for most of this strange
+rocky region is bare of trees, and many of the patches of wood that are
+there are of recent growth. Yet in ancient years there was plenty of
+wood, and a tradition comes down to us that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> in Charnwood once upon a
+time a squirrel could travel six miles on the trees without touching the
+ground, and a traveller journey entirely across the forest without
+seeing the sun. The district consists of two lines of irregular ridgy
+hills, rising three hundred to four hundred feet above the neighboring
+country. These ridges are separated by a sort of valley like a Norwegian
+fjord, tilled with red marl. The rocks are generally volcanic products,
+with much slate, which is extensively quarried. Granite and sienite are
+also quarried, and at the chief granite-quarry&mdash;Mount Sorrel, an
+eminence which projects into the valley of the Soar&mdash;was in former times
+the castle of Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester. In King John's reign the
+garrison of this castle so harassed the neighborhood that it was
+described as the "nest of the devil and a den of thieves." In Henry
+III.'s reign it was captured and demolished; the latter fate is
+gradually befalling the hill on which it stood, under the operations of
+the quarrymen. Near these quarries is the ancient village of Groby,
+which was quite a flourishing place eight hundred years ago, and has not
+grown much since. This village belonged to the Ferrars family, and an
+heiress of that family was the unfortunate Queen Elizabeth Widvile.
+About two miles away is Bradgate, a spot of rare beauty and interest,
+the history of which is closely connected with Groby. On the end of one
+of the ridges of Charnwood, just where it is sinking down to the level
+of the surrounding country, stands Bradgate House. The surrounding park
+is quite wild and bare, but there are fine old oaks in the lower
+portions. From the ancient house a beautiful dell, called the Happy
+Valley, leads to the neighboring village of Newtown Linford. Bradgate
+House was destroyed in the early part of the last century by its
+mistress. The Earl of Suffolk, who then owned it, brought his wife, who
+had no taste for a rural life, from the metropolis to live there. Her
+sister in London wrote to inquire how she was getting on. She answered,
+"The house is tolerable, the country a forest, and the inhabitants all
+brutes." In reply the sister advised, "Set the house on fire,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> and run
+away by the light of it." The countess took the advice, and Bradgate
+never was rebuilt.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ULVERSCROFT AND GRACE DIEU ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p109.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="RUINS OF ULVERSCROFT PRIORY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF ULVERSCROFT PRIORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Charnwood Forest, like almost every other place in England, contains the
+remains of religious houses. There was a priory at Ulverscroft, not far
+from Bradgate, and some picturesque moss-grown remains still exist, said
+to be the finest ruin in Leicestershire. Grace Dieu Abbey was also in
+the forest, and on the dissolution of the monasteries was granted to the
+Beaumonts; the ruins of this abbey were much frequented by Wordsworth,
+who dedicated his poems to their owner. The Cistercians have in the
+present century established the monastery of Mont St. Bernard in the
+forest, and brought large tracts under cultivation as garden-land.
+Bardon, the highest hill of Charnwood, which is near by, rises nine
+hundred feet, an obtuse-angled triangular summit that can be seen for
+miles away: not far from the forest are several famous places. The
+abandoned castle of Ashby de la Zouche has been made the site of an
+interesting town, deriving much prosperity from its neighboring
+coal-mines: this castle was built by Lord Hastings, and here dwelt
+Ivanhoe. The ruins of the tower, chapel, and great hall are objects of
+much interest, and in the chapel is the "finger pillory" for the
+punishment of those who were disorderly in church. Staunton Harold, the
+seat of Earl Ferrars, is north of the town, while about nine miles to
+the north-east of Ashby is Donington Hall,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> the palace of the Marquis of
+Hastings: this estate is connected with Langley Priory, three miles
+southward; the latter domain belonged to the Cheslyns fifty years ago,
+and had an income of $40,000 a year. Between lavish hospitality and
+ruinous lawsuits the entire property was eaten up, and Richard Cheslyn
+became practically a pauper; but he bore ill-fortune with good grace,
+and maintained his genial character to the last, being always well
+received at all the noble houses where he formerly visited. Sir Bernard
+Burke writes that Cheslyn "at dinner-parties, at which every portion of
+his dress was the cast-off clothes of his grander friends, always looked
+and was the gentleman; he made no secret of his poverty or of the
+generous hands that had 'rigged him out.' 'This coat,' he has been heard
+to say, 'was Radcliffe's; these pants, Granby's; this waistcoat,
+Scarborough's.' His cheerfulness never forsook him; he was the victim of
+others' mismanagement and profusion, not of his own." John Shakespear,
+the famous linguist, whose talents were discovered by Lord Moira, who
+had him educated, was a cowherd on the Langley estate. The poor cowherd
+afterwards bought the estates for $700,000, and they were his home
+through life.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p110.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="RUINS OF GRACE DIEU ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF GRACE DIEU ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>ELIZABETH WIDVILE AND LADY JANE GREY.</h3>
+
+<p>Charnwood Forest is also associated in history with two unfortunate
+women. Elizabeth Widvile was the wife of Sir John Grey of Groby, who
+lost his life and estate in serving the House of Lancaster, leaving
+Elizabeth with two sons; for their sake she sought an interview with
+King Edward IV. to ask him to show them favor. Smitten by her charms,
+Edward made her his queen, but he was soon driven into exile in France,
+and afterwards died, while her father and brother perished in a popular
+tumult. Her daughter married King Henry VII., a jealous son-in-law, who
+confined Elizabeth in the monastery of Ber<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>mondsey, where she died.
+Bradgate passed into the hands of her elder son by Sir John Grey of
+Groby, and his grandson was the father of the second queen to which it
+gave birth, whose name is better known than that of Elizabeth
+Widvile&mdash;the unfortunate "ten-days' queen," Lady Jane Grey. She lived
+the greater part of her short life at Bradgate, in the house whose ruins
+still stand to preserve her memory. We are told by the quaint historian
+Fuller that "she had the innocency of childhood, the beauty of youth,
+the solidity of middle, the gravity of old age, and all at eighteen&mdash;the
+birth of a princess, the learning of a clerk, the life of a saint, and
+the death of a malefactor for her parents' offences." These parents
+worried her into accepting the crown&mdash;they played for high stakes and
+lost&mdash;and her father and father-in-law, her husband and herself, all
+perished on the scaffold. We are told that this unfortunate lady still
+haunts Bradgate House, and on the last night of the dying year a phantom
+carriage, drawn by four gray horses, glides around the ruins with her
+headless body. The old oaks have a gnarled and stunted appearance,
+tradition ascribing it to the woodsmen having lopped off all the leading
+shoots when their mistress perished. The remains of the house at present
+are principally the broken shells of two towers, with portions of the
+enclosing walls, partly covered with ivy.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LEICESTER ABBEY AND CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p111" id="p111"></a>
+<img src="images/p111.jpg" width="600" height="517" alt="LEICESTER ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEICESTER ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p112" id="p112"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 333px;">
+<img src="images/p112.jpg" width="333" height="450" alt="GATEWAY, NEWGATE STREET, LEICESTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, NEWGATE STREET, LEICESTER.</span>
+</div>
+<p>The city of Leicester, which is now chiefly noted for the manufacture of
+hosiery, was founded by the Britons, and was subsequently the Roman city
+of Rat&aelig;. Many Roman remains still exist here, notably the ancient Jewry
+wall, which is seventy-five feet long and five feet high, and which
+formed part of the town-wall. Many old houses are found in Leicester,
+and just north of the city are the ruins of Leicester Abbey, This noted
+religious house was founded in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> twelfth century, and stood on a
+meadow watered by the river Soar. It was richly endowed, and was
+dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but its chief fame comes from its being
+the last residence of Cardinal Wolsey. This great man, once the primate
+of England, has had his downfall pathetically described by Shakespeare.
+The king summoned him to London to stand trial for treason, and on his
+way Wolsey became so ill that he was obliged to rest at Leicester, where
+he was met at the abbey-gate by the abbot and entire convent. Aware of
+his approaching dissolution, the fallen cardinal said, "Father abbot, I
+have come hither to lay my bones among you." The next day he died, and
+to the surrounding monks, as the last sacrament was administered, he
+said, "If I had served God as diligently as I have done the king, He
+would not have given me over in my gray hairs." The remains were
+interred by torchlight before daybreak on St. Andrew's Day, 1530, and to
+show the vanity of all things earthly tradition says that after the
+destruction of the abbey the stone coffin in which they were buried was
+used as a horse-trough for a neighboring inn. Nothing remains of the
+abbey as Wolsey saw it excepting the gate in the east wall through which
+he entered. The present ruins are fragments of a house built afterwards.
+The foundations that can still be traced show that it was a grand old
+building. The gardens and park now raise vegetables for the Leicester
+market.</p>
+
+
+<p>Leicester Castle still exists only in a portion of the great hall, but
+it has been enlarged and modernized, and is now used for the county
+offices. The castle was built after the Norman Conquest to keep the
+townspeople in check. It was afterwards a stronghold of Simon de
+Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and it then became part of the Duchy of
+Lancaster. The Dukes of Lancaster restored it, and lived there
+frequently in great pomp, and they also built the adjoining Hospital of
+the Newarke and a singular earthwork alongside, called the Mount.
+Several parliaments were held here, but after the time of Edward IV. the
+castle fell into decay. There are now few remains of the original
+castle, excepting part of the great hall and the Mount or earthwork of
+the keep, which is about thirty feet high and one hundred feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> in
+diameter upon its flat, circular top. Not far from Leicester was fought
+the last great battle of the "Wars of the Roses," Bosworth Field, upon
+Redmoor Plain, about two miles from the village now known as Market
+Bosworth. It was a moor at the time of the battle in 1485, overgrown
+with thistles and scutch-grass. Shakespeare has been the most popular
+historian of this battle, and the well where Richard slaked his thirst
+is still pointed out, with other localities of the scenes of the famous
+contest that decided the kingship of England, Richard III. giving place
+to Richmond, who became Henry VII.</p>
+
+<h3>THE EDGEHILL BATTLEFIELD.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p113" id="p113"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">EDGEHILL.</span></p>
+
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p113sandbag.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:650px; height:400px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:160px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>While we are considering this locality two other famous battlefields not
+far away, that together were decisive of the fate of England, must not
+be overlooked. These were Edgehill and Naseby, the opening and closing
+contests of the Civil War that overthrew Charles I., the scene of one
+being visible from the other, though the intervening contest spread
+almost all over the island. The high ground that borders Warwickshire
+and Northamptonshire has various roads crossing it, and the opposing
+forces meeting on these highlands made them the scenes of the
+battles&mdash;practical repetitions of many hot contests there in earlier
+years. The command of the Parliamentary army had been given to the Earl
+of Essex, and he and all his officers were proclaimed traitors by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>
+king. Charles I. assembled an army at Nottingham in 1642 to chastise
+them, and it was considered an evil omen that when the royal standard
+was set up on the evening of the day of assemblage, a gale arose and it
+was blown down. Charles moved west from Nottingham to Shrewsbury to meet
+reinforcements from Wales, and then his army numbered eighteen thousand
+men. Essex was at Northampton, and moved southward to Worcester. Charles
+desired to march to London to break up the Parliament, but to do this
+must either defeat or outflank Essex. He chose the latter plan, moved to
+Kenilworth, but could not enter Coventry, because Lord Brooke, who was
+afterwards killed at Lichfield, held it for the Parliament. Essex left
+Worcester, and pressed the king by forced marches, but Charles turned
+his flank and started for London with Essex in pursuit. In October he
+reached Edgecot, near the field at Edgehill, and there in the open
+country he was astonished to find a gentleman amusing himself with a
+pack of hounds. He asked who it was who could hunt so merrily while his
+sovereign was about to fight for his crown. Mr. Richard Shuckburgh was
+accordingly introduced, and the king persuaded him to take home his
+hounds and raise his tenantry. The next day he joined Charles with a
+troop of horse, and was knighted on the field of Edgehill.</p></div>
+
+<p>Charles slept in the old house at Edgecot: the house has been superseded
+by a newer one, in which is preserved the bed in which the king rested
+on the night of October 22, 1642. At three o'clock next morning, Sunday,
+he was aroused by a messenger from Prince Rupert, whose cavalry guarded
+the rear, saying that Essex was at hand, and the king could fight at
+once if he wished. He immediately ordered the march to Edgehill, a
+magnificent situation for an army to occupy, for here the broken country
+of the Border sinks suddenly down upon the level plain of Central
+England. Essex's camp-fires on that plain the previous night had
+betrayed his army to Prince Rupert, while Rupert's horsemen, appearing
+upon the brow of the hill, told Essex next morning that the king was at
+hand. Edgehill is a long ridge extending almost north and south, with
+another ridge jutting out at right angles into the plain in front: thus
+the Parliamentary troops were on low ground, bounded in front and on
+their left by steep hills. On the southern side of Edgehill there had
+been cut out of the red iron-stained rock of a projecting cliff a huge
+red horse, as a memorial of the great Earl of Warwick, who before a
+previous battle had killed his horse and vowed to share the perils of
+the meanest of his soldiers. Both sides determined to give battle; the
+Puritan ministers passed along the ranks exhorting the men to do their
+duty, and they afterwards referred to the figure as the "Red Horse of
+the wrath of the Lord which did ride about furiously to the ruin of the
+enemy." Charles disposed his army along the brow of the hill, and could
+overlook his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> foes, stretched out on the plain, as if on a map, with the
+village of Kineton behind them. Essex had twelve thousand men on a
+little piece of rising ground known afterwards as the "Two Battle
+Farms," Battledon and Thistledon. The king was superior both in numbers
+and position, with Prince Rupert and his cavalry on the right wing; Sir
+Edmund Verney bore the king's standard in the centre, where his tent was
+pitched, and Lord Lindsey commanded; under him was General Sir Jacob
+Astley, whose prayer before the battle is famous: "O Lord, thou knowest
+how busy I must be this day; if I forget thee, do not thou forget
+me.&mdash;March on, boys!" The king rode along in front of his troops in the
+stately figure that is familiar in Vandyke's paintings&mdash;full armor, with
+the ribbon of the Garter across his breastplate and its star on his
+black velvet mantle&mdash;and made a brief speech of exhortation. The young
+princes Charles and James, his sons, both of them afterwards kings of
+England, were present at Edgehill, while the philosopher Hervey, who
+discovered the circulation of the blood, was also in attendance, and we
+are told was found in the heat of the battle sitting snugly under a
+hedge reading a copy of Virgil.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p115.jpg" width="500" height="231" alt="MILL AT EDGEHILL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MILL AT EDGEHILL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The battle did not begin till afternoon, and the mistake the king made
+was in not waiting for the attack in his strong position on the brow of
+the hill; but his men were impatient and in high spirits, and he
+permitted them to push forward, meeting the attack halfway. Rupert's
+cavalry upon encountering the Parliamentary left wing were aided by the
+desertion of part of the latter's forces, which threw them into
+confusion; the wing broke and fled before the troopers, who drove them
+with great slaughter into the village of Kineton, and then fell to
+plundering Essex's baggage-train. This caused a delay which enabled the
+Parliamentary reserves to come up, and they drove Rupert back in
+confusion; and when he reached the royal lines he found them in
+disorder, with Sir Edmund Verney killed and the royal standard captured.
+Lord Lindsey wounded and captured, and the king in personal danger: but
+darkness came, and enabled the king to hold his ground, and each side
+claimed a victory. The royal standard was brought back by a courageous
+Cavalier, who put on a Parliamentary orange-colored scarf, rode into the
+enemy's lines, and persuaded the man who had it to let him carry it. For
+this bold act he was knighted by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> king on the spot and given a gold
+medal. There were about fourteen hundred killed in the battle, and
+buried between the two farm-houses of Battledon and Thistledon, at a
+place now called the Graveyards. Lord Lindsey died on his way to Warwick
+with his captors. Cromwell was not personally engaged at Edgehill,
+although there as a captain of cavalry. Carlyle says that after watching
+the fight he told Hampden they never would get on with a "set of poor
+tapsters and town-apprentice people fighting against men of honor; to
+cope with men of honor they must have men of religion." Hampden
+answered, "It was a good notion if it could be executed;" and Cromwell
+"set about executing a bit of it, his share of it, by and by."</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE BATTLE OF NASEBY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 454px;">
+<a name="p117" id="p117"></a>
+<img src="images/p117.jpg" width="454" height="600" alt="CHURCH AND MARKET-HALL, MARKET HARBOROUGH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHURCH AND MARKET-HALL, MARKET HARBOROUGH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The last great contest of the Civil War, at which the fate of King
+Charles was really decided, was fought nearly three years afterwards,
+June 14, 1645, and but a few miles north-east of Edgehill, at Naseby,
+standing on a high plateau elevated nearly seven hundred feet. The
+Parliamentary forces had during the interval become by far the stronger,
+and were engaged in besieging Chester. The king and Prince Rupert in May
+left Oxford with their forces, and marched northward, hoping to raise
+this siege. The king had gone as far north as Leicester, when, hearing
+that Lord Fairfax had come from the borders of Wales and besieged
+Oxford, he turned about to relieve it. His army was about ten thousand
+strong, and, having reached Daventry in June, halted, while Fairfax,
+leaving Oxford, marched northward to meet the king, being five miles
+east of him on June 12. Being weaker than Fairfax, the king determined
+on retreat, and the movement was started towards Market Harborough, just
+north of Naseby. The king, a local tradition says, while sleeping at
+Daventry was warned, by the apparition of Lord Strafford in a dream, not
+to measure his strength with the Parliamentary army. A second night the
+apparition came, assuring him that "if he kept his resolution of
+fighting he was undone;" and it is added that the king was often
+afterwards heard to say he wished he had taken the warning and not
+fought at Naseby. Fairfax, however, was resolved to force a battle, and
+pursued the king's retreating army. On June 13th he sent Harrison and
+Ireton with cavalry to attack its rear. That night the king's van and
+main body were at Market Harborough, and his rear-guard of horse at
+Naseby, three miles southward. Ireton about midnight surprised and
+captured most of the rear-guard, but a few, escaping, reached the king,
+and roused him at two in the morning. Fairfax was coming up, and reached
+Naseby at five in the morning. The king held a council of war in the
+"King's Head Inn" at Market Harborough, and determined to face about
+and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> give battle. The forces met on Broad Moor, just north of Naseby
+village. Prince Rupert had command of the royal troops, and Sir Jacob
+Astley was in command of the infantry. The king rode along the lines,
+inspiriting the men with a speech, to which they gave a response of
+ringing cheers. Cromwell commanded the right wing of Fairfax's line,
+while Ireton led the left, which was opposed by Rupert's cavalry. The
+advance was made by Fairfax, and the sequel proved that the
+Parliamentary forces had improved their tactics. Rupert's troopers, as
+usual, broke down the wing opposing them, and then went to plundering
+the baggage-wagons in the rear. But fortune inclined the other way
+elsewhere. Cromwell on the right routed the royal left wing, and after
+an hour's hot struggle the royal centre was completely broken up.
+Fairfax captured the royal standard, and the king with his reserve of
+horse made a gallant attempt to recover the day. But it was of no use.
+Fairfax formed a second line of battle, and the king's wiser friends,
+seizing his horse's bridle, turned him about, telling him his charge
+would lead to certain destruction. Then a panic came, and the whole body
+of Royalists fled, with Fairfax's cavalry in pursuit. Cromwell and his
+"Ironsides" chased the fugitives almost to Leicester, and many were
+slaughtered. The king never halted till he got to Ashby de la Zouche,
+twenty-eight miles from the battlefield, and he then went on to
+Lichfield. There were one thousand Royalists killed and four thousand
+five hundred captured, with almost all the baggage, among it being the
+king's correspondence, which by disclosing his plans did almost equal
+harm with the defeat. The prisoners were sent to London. A monument has
+since been erected on the battlefield, with an inscription describing
+the contest as "a useful lesson to British kings never to exceed the
+bounds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> of their just prerogative; and to British subjects, never to
+swerve from the allegiance due to their legitimate monarch." This is
+certainly an oracular utterance, and of its injunctions the reader can
+take his choice.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE LAND OF SHAKESPEARE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/p118.jpg" width="500" height="430" alt="SHAKESPEARE&#39;S HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHAKESPEARE&#39;S HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Close to the village of Naseby rises the Avon, some of its springs being
+actually within the village, where their waters are caught in little
+ponds for watering cattle. The slender stream of Shakespeare's river
+flows downward from the plateau through green meadows, and thence to the
+classic ground of Stratford and of Warwick. It was at Stratford-on-Avon
+that Shakespeare was born and died;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here his first infant lays sweet Shakespeare sung,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here the last accents faltered on his tongue."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p119" id="p119"></a>
+<img src="images/p119.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="ANNE HATHAWAY&#39;S COTTAGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANNE HATHAWAY&#39;S COTTAGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The old house where he was born is on the main street of the town, and
+has been taken possession of by a Trust which has restored it to its
+original condition. Its walls are covered with the initials of visitors;
+there is nothing to be seen in the house that has any proved connection
+with Shakespeare excepting his portrait, painted when he was about
+forty-five years old. The sign of the butcher who had the building
+before the Trust bought it is also exhibited, and states that "The
+immortal Shakespeare was born in this house." His birth took place in
+this ancient but carefully preserved building on April 23, 1564, and
+exactly fifty-two years later, on April 23, 1616, he died in another
+house near by, known as the "New Place," on Chapel Street. Excepting the
+garden and a portion of the ancient foundations nothing now remains of
+the house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> where Shakespeare died; a green arbor in the yard, with the
+initials of his name set in the front fence, being all that marks the
+spot. Adjoining the remnants of this "New Place" is the "Nash House,"
+where the curator representing the Shakespeare Trust has his home. This
+building is also indirectly connected with Shakespeare, having belonged
+to and been occupied by Thomas Nash, who married Elizabeth Hall, the
+poet's granddaughter, who subsequently became Lady Barnard. The church
+of the Holy Trinity at Stratford contains Shakespeare's grave; five flat
+stones lying in a row across the narrow chancel cover his family, the
+grave of Anne Hathaway, his wife, being next to that of the poet; his
+monument is on the wall, and near it is the American memorial window,
+representing the Seven Ages of Man. In the chancel upon the western
+side, within a Grecian niche, is the well-known half-figure monument of
+Shakespeare that has been so widely copied, representing him in the act
+of composition. The most imposing building in Stratford is the
+"Shakespeare Memorial," a large and highly ornamental structure,
+thoroughly emblematic, and containing a theatre. Stratford is full of
+relics of Shakespeare and statues and portraits in his memory. There is
+a life-size statue of the poet outside the Town-Hall which was presented
+to the city by Garrick in the last century, while within the building is
+his full-length portrait, also a present from Garrick, together with
+Gainsborough's portrait of Garrick himself. At the modest hamlet of
+Shottery, about a mile out of town, is the little cottage where Anne
+Hathaway lived, and where the poet is said to have "won her to his
+love;" a curious bedstead and other relics are shown at the cottage.
+Charlecote House, the scene of Shakespeare's youthful deer-stealing
+adventure that compelled him to go to London, is about four miles east
+of Stratford, near the Avon: it is an ancient mansion of the Elizabethan
+period. In the neighborhood are also a mineral spring known as the Royal
+Victoria Spa and some ancient British intrenchments called the Dingles.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>WARWICK</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 549px;">
+<img src="images/p120.jpg" width="549" height="550" alt="WARWICK CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WARWICK CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The renowned castle of Warwick is upon the Avon, a short distance above
+Stratford. Warwick was founded by the Britons at a very early period,
+and is believed to be as old in some parts as the Christian era; it was
+afterwards held as a Christian stronghold against the Danes. Lady
+Ethelfleda, daughter of King Alfred, built the donjon-keep upon an
+artificial mound of earth that can still be traced in the castle
+grounds. The most ancient part of the present castle was erected in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor, and in William the Conqueror's time it
+received considerable additions, and he created the first Earl of
+Warwick. It was a great stronghold in the subsequent wars, and an
+heiress brought the castle to Richard Neville, who assumed the title in
+right of his wife, and was the famous Warwick, "the King-maker." After
+many changes it came to the Grevilles, who are now the Earls of Warwick.
+This castle is one of the best specimens of the feudal stronghold
+remaining in England, and occupies a lovely position on the river-bank,
+being built on a rock about forty feet high; its modern apartments
+contain a rich museum filled with almost priceless relics of the olden
+time. Here are also valuable paintings and other works of art, among
+them Vandyck's portrait of Charles I. and many masterpieces of
+Rembrandt, Paul Veronese, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Holbein, and
+Salvator Rosa. In December, 1871, the great hall and suite of private
+apartments at Warwick were burnt, but the valuable contents were almost
+all saved with little injury. The castle was restored by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> a public
+subscription. It is built around a large oval-shaped court; the
+gatehouse tower is flanked by embattled walls covered with ivy, and
+having at either extremity C&aelig;sar's Tower and Guy's Tower; the inner
+court is bounded by ramparts and turrets, and has on one side an
+artificial mound surmounted by an ancient tower. From the modernized
+rooms of the castle, where the family live and the museum is located,
+and which extend in a suite for three hundred and fifty feet, all the
+windows look out upon beautiful views; many of these rooms are hung with
+tapestry. C&aelig;sar's Tower, believed to be the most ancient part of the
+castle and as old as the Norman Conquest, is one hundred and
+seventy-four feet high; Guy's Tower, which was built in 1394, has solid
+walls ten feet thick and is one hundred and twenty-eight feet high,
+disclosing fine views from the turrets. The grounds are extensive, and
+the magnificent marble "Warwick Vase," brought from the Emperor Adrian's
+villa at Tivoli in Italy, is kept in a special greenhouse, being one of
+the most completely perfect and beautiful specimens of ancient sculpture
+known. St. Mary's Church at Warwick is a fine building, which in the
+early part of the last century replaced the original collegiate church
+of St. Mary, an edifice that had unfortunately been burnt. Thomas
+Beauchamp, one of the earlier Earls of Warwick, was the founder of this
+church, and his monument with recumbent effigy is in the middle of the
+choir. The Beauchamp Chapel, over four hundred years old, is a beautiful
+relic of the original church still remaining, and stands on the southern
+side of the new building. The whole of this portion of Warwickshire is
+underlaid by medicinal waters, and the baths of Leamington are in the
+valley of the little river Leam, a short distance north-east of the
+castle, its Jephson Gardens, a lovely park, commemorating one of the
+most benevolent patrons.</p>
+<p><a name="p1222" id="p1222"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p122-2.jpg" width="450" height="447" alt="OBLIQUE GABLES IN WARWICK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OBLIQUE GABLES IN WARWICK.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Warwick Castle, like all the others, has its romance, and this centres
+in the famous giant, Guy of Warwick, who lived nearly a thousand years
+ago, and was nine feet high. His staff and club and sword and armor are
+exhibited in a room adjoining C&aelig;sar's Tower; and here also is Guy's
+famous porridge-pot, a huge bronze caldron holding over a hundred
+gallons, which is used as a punch-bowl whenever there are rejoicings in
+the castle. There is nothing fabulous about the arms or the
+porridge-pot, but there is a good deal that is doubtful about the giant
+Guy himself and the huge dun cow that once upon a time he slew, one of
+whose ribs, measuring over six feet long, is shown at Guy's Cliff. This
+cliff is where the redoubtable Guy retired as a hermit after championing
+the cause of England in single combat against a giant champion of the
+Danes, and is about a mile from Warwick. It is a picturesque spot, and a
+chantry has been founded there, while for many years a rude statue of
+the giant Guy stood on the cliff, where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> chisel had cut it out of
+the solid rock. The town of Warwick is full of old gabled houses and of
+curious relics of the time of the "King-maker" and of the famous Earl of
+Leicester, who in Elizabeth's time founded there the Leicester Hospital,
+where especial preference is given to pensioners who have been wounded
+in the wars. It is a fine old house, with its chapel, which has been
+restored nearly in the old form, stretching over the pathway, and a
+flight of steps leading up to the promenade around it. The hospital
+buildings are constructed around an open quadrangle, and upon the quaint
+black and white building are some fine antique carvings. The old
+"Malt-Shovel Inn" is a rather decayed structure in Warwick, with its
+ancient porch protruding over the street, while some of the buildings,
+deranged in the lower stories by the acute angles at which the streets
+cross, have oblique gables above stairs that enabled the builders to
+construct the upper rooms square. This is a style of construction
+peculiar to Warwick, and adds to the oddity of this somnolent old town,
+that seems to have been practically asleep for centuries.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 543px;">
+<a name="p1221" id="p1221"></a>
+<img src="images/p122-1.jpg" width="543" height="650" alt="LEICESTER&#39;S HOSPITAL, WARWICK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEICESTER&#39;S HOSPITAL, WARWICK.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>KENILWORTH.</h3>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p123.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="KENILWORTH CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KENILWORTH CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About five miles from Warwick are the ruins of Kenilworth Castle, the
+magnificent home of the Earl of Leicester, which Scott has immortalized.
+Geoffrey de Clinton in the reign of Henry I. built a strong castle and
+founded a monastery here. It was afterwards the castle of Simon de
+Montfort, and his son was besieged in it for several months, ultimately
+surrendering, when the king bestowed it on his youngest son, Edward,
+Earl of Lancaster and Leicester. Edward II., when taken prisoner in
+Wales, was brought to Kenilworth, and signed his abdication in the
+castle, being afterwards murdered in Berkeley Castle. Then it came to
+John of Gaunt, and in the Wars of the Roses was alternately held by the
+partisans of each side. Finally, Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her
+ambitious favorite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who made splendid
+additions to the buildings. It was here that Leicester gave the
+magnificent entertainment to Queen Elizabeth which was a series of
+pageants lasting seventeen days, and cost $5000 a day&mdash;a very large sum
+for those times. The queen was attended by thirty-one barons and a host
+of retainers, and four hundred servants, who were all lodged in the
+fortress. The attendants were clothed in velvet, and the party drank
+sixteen hogsheads of wine and forty hogsheads of beer every day, while
+to feed them ten oxen were killed every morning. There was a succession
+of plays and amusements provided, including the Coventry play of "Hock
+Tuesday" and the "Country Bridal," with bull-and bear-baiting, of which
+the queen was very fond. Scott has given a gorgeous description of these
+f&ecirc;tes and of the great castle, and upon these and the tragic fate of Amy
+Robsart has founded his romance of <i>Kenilworth</i>. The display and
+hospitality of the Earl of Leicester were intended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> to pave the way to
+marriage, but the wily queen was not to be thus entrapped. The castle is
+now part of the Earl of Clarendon's estate, and he has taken great pains
+to preserve the famous ruins. The great hall, ninety feet long, still
+retains several of its Gothic windows, and some of the towers rise
+seventy feet high. These ivy-mantled ruins stand upon an elevated rocky
+site commanding a fine prospect, and their chief present use is as a
+picnic-ground for tourists. Not far away are the ruins of the priory,
+which was founded at the same time as the castle. A dismantled
+gate-house with some rather extensive foundations are all that remain.
+In a little church near by the matins and the curfew are still tolled,
+one of the bells used having belonged to the priory. Few English ruins
+have more romance attached to them than those of Kenilworth, for the
+graphic pen of the best story-teller of Britain has interwoven them into
+one of his best romances, and has thus given an idea of the splendors as
+well as the dark deeds of the Elizabethan era that will exist as long as
+the language endures.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BIRMINGHAM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p124" id="p124"></a>
+<img src="images/p124.jpg" width="600" height="551" alt="ST. MARTIN&#39;S CHURCH, BIRMINGHAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. MARTIN&#39;S CHURCH, BIRMINGHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus far we have mainly written of the rural and historical attractions
+of Warwickshire, but its great city must not be passed by without
+notice. The "Homestead of the Sons of Beorm" the Saxon, while rising
+from small begin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>nings, has had a prodigiously rapid growth since the
+coal, iron, and railways have so greatly swollen the wealth and
+population of manufacturing England. It was at the time of the Conquest
+the manor of Bermingeham, or, as the Midland English prefer to pronounce
+it, "Brummagem." It was held for many years by a family of the same
+name, and had an uneventful history till the townsfolk ranged themselves
+on the side of Parliament in the Civil War, in revenge for which Prince
+Rupert captured and pillaged Birmingham: it was then a market-town,
+built mostly along one street, and noted for its smiths and cutlers, who
+were kept busy in forging pikes and swords for the king's opponents. The
+great growth of the city has been in the present century, when the
+population has trebled, and now approaches four hundred thousand. The
+main features of its history relate to trade and manufactures, otherwise
+its annals are comparatively commonplace. There is little remaining of
+the old town, almost all the structures being modern. St. Martin's
+Church, replacing the original parish church, or "Mother Church," as it
+is called, is a fine modern structure, and contains some interesting
+monuments of the Bermingeham family. There are several other attractive
+churches, including the Unitarian church of the Messiah, which is
+supported on massive arches, for it is built over a canal on which are
+several locks: this has given cause for a favorite Birmingham witticism:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"St. Peters world-wide diocese</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rests on the power of the keys;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Our church, a trifle heterodox,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We'll rest on a 'power of locks.'"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p125" id="p125"></a>
+<img src="images/p125.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="ASTON HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ASTON HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p126" id="p126"></a>
+<img src="images/p126.jpg" width="650" height="456" alt="THE &quot;GALLERY OF THE PRESENCE,&quot; ASTON HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;GALLERY OF THE PRESENCE,&quot; ASTON HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Birmingham has many fine public and private buildings and some
+attractive streets, though much of the town is made up of narrow lanes
+and dingy houses, with huge factories in every direction. There are
+several small parks, the gifts of opulent residents, notably Aston Hall.
+This was formerly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> the residence of the Holte family, and the fine old
+mansion which still stands in the grounds was built by Sir Thomas Holte
+in the reign of James I. Charles I. is said to have slept here for two
+nights before the battle of Edgehill, for which offence the house was
+cannonaded by the Puritans and its owners fined. The grounds, covering
+about forty-two acres, are now a park, and a picturesque little church
+has been built near the mansion. Some of the factories of this
+metropolis of hardware are fine structures, but when their product is
+spoken of, "Brummagem" is sometimes quoted as synonymous for showy sham.
+Here they are said to make gods for the heathen and antiquities of the
+Pharaoh age for Egypt, with all sorts of relics for all kinds of
+battlefields. But Birmingham nevertheless has a reputation for more
+solid wares. Its people are the true descendants of Tubal Cain, for one
+of its historians attractively says that the Arab eats with a Birmingham
+spoon; the Egyptian takes his bowl of sherbet from a Birmingham tray;
+the American Indian shoots a Birmingham rifle; the Hindoo dines on
+Birmingham plate and sees by the light of a Birmingham lamp; the South
+American horsemen wear Birmingham spurs and gaudily deck their jackets
+with Birmingham buttons; the West Indian cuts down the sugar-cane with
+Birmingham hatchets and presses the juice into Birmingham vats and
+coolers; the German lights his pipe on a Birmingham tinder-box; the
+emigrant cooks his dinner in a Birmingham saucepan over a Birmingham
+stove; and so on <i>ad infinitum</i>. A century ago this famous town was
+known as the "toy-shop of Europe." Its glass-workers stand at the head
+of their profession, and here are made the great lighthouse lenses and
+the finest stained glass to be found in English windows. The Messrs.
+Elkington, whose reputation is worldwide, here invented the process of
+electro-plating. It is a great place for jewelry and the champion
+emporium for buttons. It is also the great English workshop for swords,
+guns, and other small-arms, and here are turned out by the million
+Gillott's steel pens. Over all these industries presides the magnificent
+Town Hall, a Grecian temple standing upon an arcade basement, and built
+of hard limestone<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> brought from the island of Anglesea. The interior is
+chiefly a vast assembly-room, where concerts are given and political
+meetings held, the latter usually being the more exciting, for we are
+told that when party feeling runs high some of the Birmingham folk "are
+a little too fond of preferring force to argument." But, although famed
+for its Radical politics and the introduction of the "caucus" into
+England, Birmingham will always be chiefly known by its manufactures,
+and these will recall its illustrious inventors, Boulton and Watt. Their
+factory was at Soho, just north of the town. Here Watt brought the
+steam-engine to perfection, here gas was first used, plating was
+perfected, and myriads of inventions were developed. "The labors of
+Boulton and Watt at Soho," says the historian Langford, "changed the
+commercial aspects of the world." Their history is, however, but an
+epitome of the wonderful story of this great city of the glass and
+metal-workers, whose products supply the entire globe.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p127.jpg" width="650" height="400" alt="THE TOWN-HALL, BIRMINGHAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TOWN-HALL, BIRMINGHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>FOTHERINGHAY.</h3>
+
+<p>In our journey through Midland England we have paused at many of the
+prison-houses of Mary Queen of Scots. In Northamptonshire, near Elton,
+are the remains of the foundations of the castle of Fotheringhay, out in
+a field, with the mound of the keep rising in front of them; this was
+the unfortunate queen's last prison. It was a noted castle, dating from
+the twelfth century, and had been a principal residence of the
+Plantagenets. Here Mary was tried and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> beheaded, February 8, 1587. She
+is said to have borne up under her great afflictions with marvellous
+courage. Conducted to the scaffold after taking leave of all, she made a
+short address, declaring that she had never sought the life of her
+cousin Elizabeth&mdash;that she was queen-born, not subject to the laws, and
+forgiving all. Her attendants in tears then assisted her to remove her
+clothing, but she firmly said, "Instead of weeping, rejoice; I am very
+happy to leave this world and in so good a cause." Then she knelt, and
+after praying stretched out her neck to the executioner, imagining that
+he would strike off her head while in an upright posture and with the
+sword, as in France; they told her of her mistake, and without ceasing
+to pray she laid her head on the block. There was a universal feeling of
+compassion, even the headsman himself being so moved that he did his
+work with unsteady hand, the axe falling on the back of her head and
+wounding her; but she did not move nor utter a complaint, and, repeating
+the blow, he struck off her head, which he held up, saying, "God save
+Queen Elizabeth!" Her lips moved for some time after death, and few
+recognized her features, they were so much changed.</p>
+
+
+<h3>HOLMBY HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<p>Also in Northamptonshire is Holmby House, where King Charles I. was
+captured by the army previous to his trial. It was built by Sir
+Christopher Hatton in Queen Elizabeth's time, but only the gates and
+some outbuildings remain. After the battle of Naseby the king
+surrendered himself to the Scots, and they, through an arrangement with
+the English Parliament, conducted him to Holmby House, where he
+maintained something of sovereign state, though under the surveillance
+of the Parliamentary commissioners. He devoted his time to receiving
+visitors, the bowling-green, and the chess-table. This continued for
+some months, when a struggle began between the army and the Parliament
+to decide whose captive he was. The army subsequently, by a plot, got
+possession of Holmby, and, practically making prisoners of the garrison
+and the commissioners of Parliament, they abducted the king and took him
+to a house near Huntingdon. Fairfax sent two regiments of troops thither
+to escort him back to Holmby, but he had been treated with great
+courtesy and declined to go back. Thus by his own practical consent the
+king was taken possession of by Cromwell, Fairfax, and Ireton, who were
+in command, although they denied it, and put the whole blame on one
+Cornet Joyce who was in command of the detachment of troops that took
+possession of Holmby. The king was ultimately taken to London, tried,
+and executed in Whitehall. At Ashby St. Leger, near Daventry, in
+Northamptonshire, is the gate-house of the ancient manor of the
+Catesbys, of whom Robert Catesby was the contriver of the Gunpowder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>
+Plot. The thirteen conspirators who framed the plot met in a room over
+the gateway which the villagers call the "Plot-room," and here Guy
+Fawkes was equipped for his task, which so alarmed the kingdom that to
+this day the cellars of the Parliament Houses are searched before the
+session begins for fear a new plot may have been hatched, while the
+anniversary is kept as a solemn holiday in London. The lantern used by
+Guy Fawkes is still preserved in the Oxford Museum having been given to
+the University in 1641.</p>
+
+
+<h3>BEDFORD CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p>One of the most ancient of the strongholds of Midland England was the
+Bedicanford of the Saxons, where contests took place between them and
+the Britons as early as the sixth century. It stood in a fertile valley
+on the Ouse, and is also mentioned in the subsequent contests with the
+Danes, having been destroyed by them in the eleventh century. Finally,
+William Rufus built a castle there, and its name gradually changed to
+Bedford. It was for years subject to every storm of civil war&mdash;was taken
+and retaken, the most famous siege lasting sixty days, when Henry III.
+personally conducted the operations, being attended by the Archbishop of
+Canterbury and the chief peers of the realm: this was in 1224, and the
+most ingenious engines of war were used to batter down the castle-walls,
+which till then had been regarded as impregnable. The stronghold was
+ultimately captured, chiefly through the agency of a lofty wooden castle
+higher than the walls, which gave an opportunity of seeing all that
+passed within. The governor of the castle, twenty-four knights, and
+eighty soldiers, making most of the garrison, were hanged. King Henry
+then dismantled it and filled up the ditches, so as to "uproot this
+nursery of sedition." The ruins lasted some time afterward, but now only
+the site is known, located alongside the river Ouse, which runs through
+the city of Bedford. This town is of great interest, though, as Camden
+wrote two centuries ago, it is more eminent for its "pleasant situation
+and antiquity than for anything of beauty and stateliness." Its
+neighborhood has been a noted mine for antiquities, disclosing remains
+of ancient races of men and of almost pre-historic animals of the Bronze
+and Iron Ages. The town lies rather low on the river, with a handsome
+bridge connecting the two parts, and pretty gardens fringing each shore.
+This bridge is a modern structure, having succeeded the "old bridge,"
+which stood there several centuries with a gate-house at either end, in
+the larger of which was the old jail, that had for its most
+distinguished occupant that sturdy townsman of Bedford, John Bunyan. The
+castle-mound, which is all that is left, and on which once stood the
+keep, is on the river-shore just below the bridge, and is now used for a
+bowling-green in the garden of the chief hotel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> The memorials of the
+author of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>, first a prisoner and then a minister
+of the gospel in Bedford, are probably the most prized remains of
+ancient days that Bedford has, though they are now becoming scarce.</p>
+
+
+<h3>JOHN BUNYAN.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p130-2.jpg" width="600" height="312" alt="ELSTOW CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELSTOW CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p130" id="p130"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p130-1.jpg" width="450" height="446" alt="ELSTOW, BEDFORD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELSTOW, BEDFORD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Elstow, a village about one mile south of Bedford, was Bunyan's
+birthplace. The house is still pointed out, though a new front has been
+put into it, and it is a very small building, suitable to the tinker's
+humble estate. The village-green where he played is near by, alongside
+the churchyard wall; the church, which has been little changed, stands
+on the farther side of the yard, with a massive tower at the
+north-western angle, looking more like a fortress than a religious
+edifice. The bells are still there which Bunyan used to ring, and they
+also point out "Bunyan's Pew" inside, though the regularity of his
+attendance is not vouched for, as he says "absenting himself from
+church" was one of his offences during the greater part of his life. He
+married early and in poor circumstances, the young couple "not having so
+much household stuff as a dish or spoon betwixt them both," though he
+considered it among his mercies that he was led "to light upon a wife of
+godly parentage." He says that a marked change in his mental condition
+suddenly began while playing a game of "tip-cat" on Sunday afternoon on
+the village-green, having listened in the morning to a sermon upon
+Sabbath-breaking. His conscience smote him; he abandoned the game,
+leaving his cat upon the ground, and then began his great spiritual
+struggle. He joined the Baptists, and began preaching, for at length,
+after many tribulations, he says, "the burden fell from off his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> back."
+He was persecuted, and committed to Bedford jail, where he remained
+(with short intervals of parole) for about twelve years. Here he wrote
+what Macaulay declares to be incomparably the finest allegory in the
+English language&mdash;the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>. He was a voluminous author,
+having written some sixty tracts and books. Finally pardoned in 1672, he
+became pastor of the Bedford meeting-house, and afterwards escaped
+molestation; he preached in all parts of the kingdom, especially in
+London, where he died at the age of sixty, having caught cold in a heavy
+storm while going upon an errand of mercy in 1688. His great work will
+live as long as the Anglo-Saxon race endures. "That wonderful book,"
+writes Macaulay, "while it obtains admiration from the most fastidious
+critics, is loved by those who are too simple to admire it.... Every
+reader knows the strait and narrow path as well as he knows a road in
+which he has gone backward and forward a hundred times. This is the
+highest miracle of genius, that things which are not should be as though
+they were&mdash;that the imaginations of one mind should become the personal
+recollections of another; and this miracle the tinker has wrought."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;">
+<img src="images/p131.jpg" width="365" height="450" alt="NORTH DOOR, ELSTOW CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORTH DOOR, ELSTOW CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>WOBURN ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<p>The county of Bedford gives the title to the dukedom held by the head of
+the great family of Russell, and Francis Charles Hastings Russell, the
+ninth Duke of Bedford, has his residence at the magnificent estate of
+Woburn Abbey. It is about forty miles from London, and on the
+Buckinghamshire border. Here the Cistercians founded an abbey in the
+twelfth century, which continued until the dissolution of the religious
+houses by Henry VIII., and the last abbot, Robert Hobs, was executed for
+denying the king's religious supremacy, the tree on which he was hanged
+being still carefully preserved in Woburn Park. The abbey and its domain
+were granted by the youthful king Edward VI. to John Russell, first Earl
+of Bedford, under circumstances which show how fortune sometimes smiles
+upon mortals. Russell, who had been abroad and was an accomplished
+linguist, had in 1506 returned, and was living with his father in
+Dorsetshire at Berwick, near the sea-coast. Soon afterwards in a tempest
+three foreign vessels sought refuge in the neighboring port of Weymouth.
+On one of them was the Austrian archduke Philip, son-in-law of Ferdinand
+and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> Isabella, who was on his way to Spain. The governor took the
+archduke to his castle, and invited young Mr. Russell to act as
+interpreter. The archduke was so delighted with him that he subsequently
+invited Russell to accompany him on a visit to King Henry VII. at
+Windsor. The king was also impressed with Russell, and appointed him to
+an office in the court, and three years afterwards, Henry VIII. becoming
+king, Russell was entrusted with many important duties, and was raised
+to the peerage as Baron Russell. He enjoyed the king's favor throughout
+his long reign, and was made one of the councillors of his son, Edward
+VI., besides holding other high offices, and when the youthful prince
+ascended the throne he made Russell an earl and gave him the magnificent
+domain of Woburn Abbey. He also enjoyed the favor of Queen Mary, and
+escorted her husband Philip from Spain, this being his last public act.
+Dying in 1555, he was buried in the little parish church of Chenies,
+near Woburn, where all the Russells rest from his time until now. He
+thus founded one of the greatest houses of England, which has furnished
+political leaders from that day to this, for the Dukes of Bedford and
+Devonshire are the heads of the Whig party, and Lord John Russell
+(afterwards an earl) was the uncle of the present duke.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p132.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="WOBURN ABBEY, WEST FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WOBURN ABBEY, WEST FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;">
+<img src="images/p133.jpg" width="368" height="450" alt="THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, WOBURN ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, WOBURN ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p134" id="p134"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p134.jpg" width="450" height="264" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE PUZZLE-GARDEN, WOBURN ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE PUZZLE-GARDEN, WOBURN ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Woburn Abbey remained until the last century much in its original
+condition, but in 1747 changes began which have since been continued,
+and have resulted in the construction of the ducal palace now adorning
+the spot. The mansion is a quadrangle enclosing a spacious court, the
+chief front being towards the west and extending two hundred and thirty
+feet. It is an Ionic building with a rustic basement, and within are
+spacious state-apartments and ample accommodations for the family. The
+rooms are filled with the best collection of portraits of great
+historical characters in the kingdom, and most of them are by famous
+artists. They include all the Earls and Dukes of Bedford, with their
+wives and famous relatives, and also the Leicesters, Essexes, and
+Sydneys of Queen Elizabeth's reign, with many others. The unfortunate
+Lord William Russell and his wife Rachel are here, and over his portrait
+is the walking-stick which supported him to the scaffold, while hanging
+on the wall is a copy of his last address, printed within an hour after
+his execution. Of another of these old portraits Horace Walpole writes:
+"A pale Roman nose, a head of hair loaded with crowns and powdered with
+diamonds, a vast ruff and still vaster fardingale, and a bushel of
+pearls, are the features by which everybody knows at once the pictures
+of Queen Elizabeth." There is a fine library, and passing out of it into
+the flower-garden is seen on the lawn the stump of the yew tree which
+Mr. Gladstone felled in October, 1878, as a memorial of his visit, he
+being as proud of his ability as a forester as he is of his eminence as
+a statesman. From the house a covered way leads to the statue-gallery,
+which contains an admirable collection, and the green-house, one hundred
+and fifty feet long, filled with valuable foreign plants, the family
+being great horticulturists. Busts of the great Whig statesmen are in
+the gallery, and it also contains the celebrated Lanti vase, brought
+from Rome. The "Woburn Abbey Marbles" have long been a Mecca for
+sculpture-loving pilgrims from both sides of the ocean. There are
+extensive stables, and to them are attached a fine tennis-court and
+riding-house, both constantly used by the younger Russells. Beyond is a
+Chinese dairy kept for show, and in a distant part of the grounds a
+curious puzzle-garden and rustic grotto. Woburn Park is one of the
+largest private enclosures in England, covering thirty-five hundred
+acres, and enclosed by a brick wall twelve miles long and eight feet
+high.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> It is undulating in surface, containing several pretty lakes and
+a large herd of deer. Its "Evergreen Drive" is noted, for in the
+spring-time it attracts visitors from all quarters to see the
+magnificence of the rhododendrons, which cover two hundred acres. The
+state entrance to the park is through a large stone archway with
+ornamental gates, called the "Golden Gates," on the road from London,
+and having two drives of about a mile each leading up to the abbey. The
+dukes are liberal patrons of agriculture, and their annual
+"sheep-shearing" used to be one of the great festivals of this part of
+England. They have also aided in the work of draining the Fen country,
+which extends into Bedfordshire, and which has reclaimed a vast domain
+of the best farm-land, stretching northward for fifty miles.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>STOWE.</h3>
+
+<p>We are now approaching London, and, crossing over the border into
+Buckinghamshire, come to another ducal palace. This is the fine estate,
+near the town of Buckingham, of Stowe, also originally an abbey, which
+came into possession of the Temple family in the sixteenth century, and
+in 1749 merged into the estate of the Grenvilles, the ancestors of the
+Duke of Buckingham, its present owner. Stowe gets its chief fame from
+its pleasure-gardens, which Pope has commemorated. They appear at a
+distance like a vast grove, from whose luxuriant foliage emerge
+obelisks, columns, and towers. They are adorned with arches, pavilions,
+temples, a rotunda, hermitage, grotto, lake, and bridge. The temples are
+filled with statuary. The mansion, which has been greatly enlarged, has
+a frontage of nine hundred and sixteen feet, and its windows look out
+over the richest possible landscape, profuse with every adornment. In
+the interior the rooms, opening one into another, form a superb suite.
+There is a Rembrandt Room, hung with pictures by that painter, and there
+were many curiosities from Italy: old tapestry and draperies; rich
+Oriental stuffs, the spoils of Tippoo Saib; furniture from the Doge's
+Palace in Venice; marble pavements from Rome; fine paintings and
+magnificent plate. Formerly, Stowe contained the grandest collection in
+England, and in this superb palace, thus gorgeously furnished, Richard
+Grenville, the first Duke of Buckingham, entertained Louis XVIII. and
+Charles X. of France and their suites during their residence in England.
+His hospitality was too much for him, and, bur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>dened with debt, he was
+compelled to shut up Stowe and go abroad. In 1845 his successor received
+Queen Victoria at Stowe at enormous cost, and in 1848 there was a
+financial crisis in the family. The sumptuous contents of the palace
+were sold to pay the debts, and realized $375,000. A splendid avenue of
+elms leads up from the town of Buckingham to Stowe, a distance of two
+miles.</p>
+
+<p>Not far away from Buckingham is Whaddon Hall, formerly a seat of the
+Dukes of Buckingham, but best known as the residence of Browne Willis,
+an eccentric antiquary, whose person and dress were so singular that he
+was often mistaken for a beggar, and who is said "to have written the
+very worst hand of any man in England." He wore one pair of boots for
+forty years, having them patched when they were worn out, and keeping
+them till they had got all in wrinkles, so that he was known as "Old
+Wrinkle-boots." He was great for building churches and quarrelling with
+the clergy, and left behind him valuable collections of coins and
+manuscripts, which he bequeathed to Oxford University. Great Hampden,
+the home of the patriot, John Hampden, is also in Buckinghamshire. The
+original house remains, much disfigured by stucco and whitewash, and
+standing in a secluded spot in the Chiltern Hills; it is still the
+property of his descendants in the seventh generation.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CRESLOW HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<p>The manor of Creslow in Buckinghamshire, owned by Lord Clifford of
+Chudleigh, is a pasture-farm of eight hundred and fifty acres, and is
+said to raise some of the finest cattle in England; it was the home of
+the regicide Holland. The mansion is an ancient one, spacious and
+handsome, much of it, including the crypt and tower, coming down from
+the time of Edward III., with enlargements in the fifteenth and
+sixteenth centuries. It is a picturesque yet venerable building, with
+many gables and curious chimneys, and surmounted by a square tower and
+loopholed turret. But its chief interest attaches to the two ancient
+cellars known as the crypt and the dungeon: the crypt is about twelve
+feet square, excavated in the limestone rock, and having a Gothic
+vaulted ceiling, with a single small window; the dungeon is eighteen
+feet long, half as wide, and six feet high, without any windows, and
+with a roof formed of massive stones. This is the "haunted chamber of
+Creslow"&mdash;haunted by a lady, Rosamond Clifford, the "Fair Rosamond" of
+Woodstock, often heard, but seldom seen, by those who stay at night in
+the room, which she enters by a Gothic doorway leading from the crypt.
+Few have ever ventured to sleep there, but not long ago a guest was
+prevailed upon to do it, and next morning at breakfast he told his
+story: "Having entered the room, I locked and bolted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> both doors,
+carefully examined the whole room, and satisfied myself that there was
+no living creature in it but myself, nor any entrances but those I had
+secured. I got into bed, and, with the conviction that I should sleep as
+usual till six in the morning, I was soon lost in a comfortable slumber.
+Suddenly I was aroused, and on raising my head to listen I heard a sound
+certainly resembling the light, soft tread of a lady's footstep,
+accompanied with the rustling as of a silk gown. I sprang out of bed and
+lighted a candle; there was nothing to be seen and nothing now to be
+heard; I carefully examined the whole room, looked under the bed, into
+the fireplace, up the chimney, and at both the doors, which were
+fastened as I had left them; I looked at my watch, and it was a few
+minutes past twelve. As all was now perfectly quiet, I extinguished the
+candle and soon fell asleep. I was again aroused; the noise was now
+louder than before; it appeared like the violent rustling of a stiff
+silk dress. I sprang out of bed, darted to the spot where the noise was,
+and tried to grasp the intruder in my arms: my arms met together, but
+enclosed nothing. The noise passed to another part of the room, and I
+followed it, groping near the floor to prevent anything passing under my
+arms. It was in vain; I could feel nothing; the noise had passed away
+through the Gothic door, and all was still as death. I lighted a candle
+and examined the Gothic door, but it was shut and fastened just as I had
+left it; I again examined the whole room, but could find nothing to
+account for the noise. I now left the candle burning, though I never
+sleep comfortably with a light in my room; I got into bed, but felt, it
+must be acknowledged, not a little perplexed at not being able to detect
+the cause of the noise, nor to account for its cessation when the candle
+was lighted. While ruminating on these things I fell asleep, and began
+to dream about murders and secret burials and all sorts of horrible
+things; and just as I fancied myself knocked down by a knight templar, I
+awoke and found the sun shining brightly."</p>
+
+<p>This ancient house was originally the home of a lodge of Knights
+Templar, and the dungeon, which is now said to be appropriately
+decorated with skulls and other human bones, was formerly their
+stronghold. At this weird mansion, within a few minutes' ride of the
+metropolis, we will close our descriptive journey through Midland
+England, and its mystic tale will recall that passage from the <i>Book of
+Days</i> which counsels&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Doubtless there are no ghosts;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet somehow it is better not to move,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lest cold hands seize upon us from behind."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Thames Head&mdash;Cotswold Hills&mdash;Seven
+Springs&mdash;Cirencester&mdash;Cheltenham&mdash;Sudeley
+Castle&mdash;Chavenage&mdash;Shifford&mdash;Lechlade&mdash;Stanton Harcourt&mdash;Cumnor
+Hall&mdash;Fair Rosamond&mdash;Godstow Nunnery&mdash;Oxford&mdash;Oxford
+Colleges&mdash;Christ Church&mdash;Corpus Christi&mdash;Merton&mdash;Oriel&mdash;All
+Souls&mdash;University&mdash;Queen's&mdash;Magdalen&mdash;Brasenose&mdash;New
+College&mdash;Radcliffe Library&mdash;Bodleian
+Library&mdash;Lincoln&mdash;Exeter&mdash;Wadham&mdash;Keble&mdash;Trinity&mdash;Balliol&mdash;St.
+John's&mdash;Pembroke&mdash;Oxford Churches&mdash;Oxford Castle&mdash;Carfax
+Conduit&mdash;Banbury&mdash;Broughton
+Castle&mdash;Woodstock&mdash;Marlborough&mdash;Blenheim&mdash;Minster
+Lovel&mdash;Bicester&mdash;Eynsham&mdash;Abingdon&mdash;Radley&mdash;Bacon, Rich, and
+Holt&mdash;Clifton Hampden&mdash;Caversham&mdash;Reading&mdash;Maidenhead&mdash;Bisham
+Abbey&mdash;Vicar of Bray&mdash;Eton College&mdash;Windsor Castle&mdash;Magna Charta
+Island&mdash;Cowey Stakes&mdash;Ditton&mdash;Twickenham&mdash;London&mdash;Fire
+Monument&mdash;St. Paul's Cathedral&mdash;Westminster Abbey&mdash;The
+Tower&mdash;Lollards and Lambeth&mdash;Bow Church&mdash;St.
+Bride's&mdash;Whitehall&mdash;Horse Guards&mdash;St. James Palace&mdash;Buckingham
+Palace&mdash;Kensington Palace&mdash;Houses of Parliament&mdash;Hyde Park&mdash;Marble
+Arch&mdash;Albert Memorial&mdash;South Kensington Museum&mdash;Royal
+Exchange&mdash;Bank of England&mdash;Mansion House&mdash;Inns of Court&mdash;British
+Museum&mdash;Some London Scenes&mdash;The Underground Railway&mdash;Holland
+House&mdash;Greenwich&mdash;Tilbury Fort&mdash;The Thames Mouth.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>THE THAMES HEAD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p138" id="p138"></a>
+<img src="images/p138.jpg" width="600" height="259" alt="THAMES HEAD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THAMES HEAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The river Thames is the largest and most important river in England, and
+carries the greatest commerce in the world. From the Cotswold Hills in
+Gloucestershire it flows to the eastward past London, and after a course
+of two hundred and twenty miles empties into the North Sea. The
+confluence of many small streams draining the Cotswolds makes the
+Thames, but its traditional source, or "The Thames Head," is in
+Trewsbury Mead, about three miles from Cirencester, and at an elevation
+of three hundred and seventy-six feet above the sea-level. The waters of
+the infant stream are at once pressed into service for pumping into the
+higher levels of a canal, which pierces the Cotswolds by a long tunnel,
+and connects the Thames with the Severn River, flowing along their
+western base. It receives many tiny rivulets that swell its current,
+until at Cricklade the most ambitious of these affluents joins it, and
+even lays claim to be the original stream. This is the Churn, rising at
+the "Seven Springs," about three miles from Cheltenham, and also on the
+slope of the Cotswolds. The Churn claims the honor because it is twenty
+miles long, while the Thames down to Cricklade measures only ten miles.
+But they come together affectionately, and journey on through rich
+meadows much like other streams, until the clear waters have acquired
+sufficient dignity to turn a mill.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> Cirencester (pronounced Cisseter),
+which thus has the honor of being a near neighbor of the Thames Head, is
+an ancient town, occupying the site of the Roman city of Corinium, and
+is known as the "metropolis of the Cotswolds." Here four great Roman
+roads met, and among the many Roman remains it has is part of the ruins
+of an amphitheatre. It was a famous stronghold before the Saxons came to
+England, and Polydorus tells how one Gormund, an African prince, in the
+dim ages of the past, besieged it for seven long years. Then he
+bethought him that if he could only set fire to the thatched roofs of
+the houses he could in the commotion that would follow force an
+entrance. So he set his troops at work catching sparrows, and when many
+were caught fastened combustibles under their tails and let them loose.
+The poor birds flew straight to their nests under the thatches, set them
+in a blaze, and while the people were busy putting out the fires Gormund
+got into the town. In memory of this it was afterwards called the "City
+of Sparrows." The Normans built a strong castle here, and Stephen
+destroyed it. The castle was rebuilt, and suffered the usual fate in the
+successive civil wars, and in the Revolution of 1688 the first bloodshed
+was at Cirencester. It had a magnificent abbey, built for the Black
+Canons in the twelfth century, and ruled by a mitred abbot who had a
+seat in Parliament. A fine gateway of this abbey remains, and also the
+beautiful church with its pretty tower. It is known now as the parish
+church of St. John, and has been thoroughly restored. Within are the
+monuments of the Bathurst family, whose seat at Oakley Park, near the
+town, has some charming scenery. Pope's Seat, a favorite resort of the
+poet, is also in the park. Cheltenham, near which is the "Seven
+Springs," the source of the Churn, is a popular watering-place, with the
+Earl of Eldon's seat at Stowell Park not far<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> away. Here in 1864 a Roman
+villa was discovered, which has been entirely excavated. It has twenty
+chambers communicating with a long corridor, and there are several
+elegant tessellated pavements, while the walls are still standing to a
+height of four feet. Two temples have also been found in the immediate
+neighborhood. Substantial buildings have been erected to protect these
+precious remains from the weather.</p>
+
+
+<h3>SUDELEY CASTLE AND CHAVENAGE.</h3>
+
+<p>In the Cotswolds is the castle of Sudeley, its ruins being in rather
+good preservation. It was an extensive work, built in the reign of Henry
+VI., and was destroyed in the Civil Wars; it was a famous place in the
+olden time, and was regarded as one of the most magnificent castles in
+England when Queen Elizabeth made her celebrated progress thither in
+1592. After the death of Henry VIII., his queen, Catharine Parr, married
+Lord Seymour of Sudeley, and she died and was buried in this castle: it
+is related that her leaden coffin was exhumed in 1782, two hundred and
+eighty years after her death, and the remains were found in excellent
+preservation. Among the records of the castle is a manuscript stating
+that Catharine Parr was told by an astrologer who calculated her
+nativity that she was born to sit in the "highest state of imperial
+majesty," and that she had all the eminent stars and planets in her
+house: this worked such lofty conceit in the lady that "her mother could
+never make her sew or do any small work, saying her hands were ordained
+to touch crowns and sceptres, not needles and thimbles." Near Tatbury,
+and also in the Cotswolds, is the source of the classic river Avon, and
+north-west of the town is the fine Elizabethan mansion of Chavenage,
+with its attractive hall and chapel. The original furniture, armor, and
+weapons are still preserved. This was the old manor-house of the family
+of Stephens, and Nathaniel represented Gloucestershire in Parliament at
+the time of the conviction of Charles I.: it is related that he was only
+persuaded to agree to the condemnation by the impetuous Ireton, who came
+there and sat up all night in urgent argument "to whet his almost
+blunted purpose." Stephens died in May, 1649, expressing regret for
+having participated in the execution of his sovereign. We are further
+told in the traditions of the house that when all the relatives were
+assembled for the funeral, and the courtyard was crowded with equipages,
+another coach, gorgeously ornamented and drawn by black horses, solemnly
+approached the porch: when it halted, the door opened, and, clad in his
+shroud, the shade of Stephens glided into the carriage; the door was
+closed by an unseen hand, and the coach moved off, the driver being a
+beheaded man, arrayed in royal vestments and wearing the insignia of the
+Star and Garter. Passing the gateway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> of the courtyard, the equipage
+vanished in flames. Tradition maintains also that every lord of
+Chavenage dying in the manor-house since has departed in the same awful
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>The Thames flows on after its junction with the Churn, and receives
+other pretty streams, all coming out of the Cotswolds. The Coln and the
+Leche, coming in near Lechlade, swell its waters sufficiently to make it
+navigable for barges, and the river sets up a towing-path, for here the
+canal from the Severn joins it. The river passes in solitude out of
+Gloucestershire, and then for miles becomes the boundary between
+Oxfordshire on the north and Berkshire on the south. The canal has been
+almost superseded by the railway, so that passing barges are rare, but
+the towing-path and the locks remain, with an occasional rustic dam
+thrown across the gradually widening river. In this almost deserted
+region is the isolated hamlet of Shifford, where King Alfred held a
+parliament a thousand years ago. Near it is the New Bridge, a solid
+structure, but the oldest bridge that crosses the Thames, for it was
+"new" just six hundred years ago. The Thames then receives the Windrush
+and the Evenlode, and it passes over frequent weirs that have become
+miniature rapids, yet not too dangerous for an expert oarsman to guide
+his boat through safely. Thus the famous river comes to Bablock Hythe
+Ferry, and at once enters an historic region.</p>
+
+
+<h3>STANTON HARCOURT AND CUMNOR HALL.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p140" id="p140"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 341px;">
+<img src="images/p140.jpg" width="341" height="450" alt="DOVECOTE, STANTON HARCOURT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DOVECOTE, STANTON HARCOURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A short distance from the ferry in Oxfordshire is Stanton Harcourt, with
+its three upright sandstones, "the Devil's Coits," supposed to have been
+put there to commemorate a battle between the Saxons and the Britons
+more than twelve centuries ago. The village gets its name from the large
+and ancient mansion of the Harcourts, of which, however, but little
+remains. Pope passed the greater part of two summers in the deserted
+house in a tower that bears his name, and where he wrote the fifth
+volume of his translation of Homer in the topmost room: he recorded the
+fact on a pane of glass in the window in 1718, and this pane has been
+carefully preserved. The kitchen of the strange old house still remains,
+and is a remarkable one, being described as "either a kitchen within a
+chimney or a kitchen without one." In the lower part this kitchen is a
+large square room; above it is octangular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> and ascends like a tower, the
+fires being made against the walls, and the smoke climbing up them until
+it reaches the conical apex, where it goes out of loopholes on any side
+according to the wind. The distance from the floor to the apex is about
+sixty feet, and the interior is thickly coated with soot. The fireplaces
+are large enough to roast an ox whole.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<img src="images/p141.jpg" width="550" height="413" alt="CUMNOR CHURCHYARD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CUMNOR CHURCHYARD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far from the ferry, in Berkshire, is the ancient manor-house of
+Cumnor Hall, sacred to the melancholy memory of poor Amy Robsart. She
+was the wife of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and when his ambition led him
+to seek Queen Elizabeth's hand it was necessary to get her out of the
+way. So he sent Amy to Cumnor, where his servant Anthony Forster lived.
+At first poison was tried, but she suspected it, and would not take the
+potion. Then, sending all the people away, Sir Richard Varney and
+Forster, with another man, strangled her, and afterwards threw her down
+stairs, breaking her neck. It was at first given out that poor Amy had
+fallen by accident and killed herself, but people began to suspect
+differently, and the third party to the murder, being arrested for a
+felony and threatening to tell, was privately made away with in prison
+by Leicester's orders. Both Varney and Forster became melancholy before
+their deaths, and finally a kinswoman of the earl, on her dying bed,
+told the whole story. The earl had Amy buried with great pomp at Oxford,
+but it is recorded that the chaplain by accident "tripped once or twice
+in his speech by recommending to their memories that virtuous lady so
+pitifully <i>murdered</i>, instead of saying pitifully <i>slain</i>." Sir Walter
+Scott has woven her sad yet romantic story into his tale of
+<i>Kenilworth</i>; and to prove how ambition overleaps itself, we find Lord
+Burghley, among other reasons which he urged upon the queen why she
+should not marry Leicester, saying that "he is infamed by the murder of
+his wife." The queen remained a virgin sovereign, and Leicester's crime
+availed only to blacken his character.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>FAIR ROSAMOND.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p142" id="p142"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 447px;">
+<img src="images/p142.jpg" width="447" height="450" alt="GODSTOW NUNNERY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GODSTOW NUNNERY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><br />The Thames flows on past the wooded glades of Wytham Abbey, and then
+revives the memory of Fair Rosamond as it skirts the scanty ruins of
+Godstow Nunnery. This religious house upon the river-bank was founded in
+the reign of Henry I., and the ruins are some remains of the walls and
+of a small chapter-house in which Rosamond's corpse was deposited. It
+was at Woodstock, in Oxfordshire, then a royal palace, that in the
+twelfth century Henry II. built "Fair Rosamond's Bower" for his charmer,
+who was the daughter of Lord Clifford. This bower was surrounded by a
+labyrinth. Queen Eleanor, whom the king had married only from ambitious
+motives, was much older than he, and he had two sons by Rosamond, whom
+he is said to have first met at Godstow Nunnery. The bower consisted of
+arched vaults underground. There are various legends of the discovery of
+Rosamond by Eleanor, the most popular being that the queen discovered
+the ball of silk the king used to thread the maze of the labyrinth, and
+following it found the door and entered the bower. She is said to have
+ill-treated and even poisoned Rosamond, but the belief now is that
+Rosamond retired to the nunnery from sorrow at the ultimate defection of
+her royal lover, and did not die for several years. The story has been
+the favorite theme of the poets, and we are told that her body was
+buried in the nunnery, and wax lights placed around the tomb and kept
+continually burning. Subsequently, her remains were reinterred in the
+chapter-house, with a Latin inscription, which is thus translated:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"This tomb doth here enclose the world's most beauteous rose&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rose passing sweet erewhile, now naught but odor vile."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h3>OXFORD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p143" id="p143"></a>
+<img src="images/p143.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE CHERWELL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE CHERWELL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p144-1" id="p144-1"></a></p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="p144-1/144-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-1.jpg" width="220" height="450"
+ alt="DORMER WINDOW, MERTON COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-2.jpg" width="304" height="450"
+ alt="STONE PULPIT, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">DORMER WINDOW, MERTON COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STONE PULPIT, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p144-3" id="p144-3"></a></p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="p144-3/144-4">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-3.jpg" width="220" height="450"
+ alt="GABLE AT ST. ALDATE'S COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-4.jpg" width="304" height="450"
+ alt="BOW WINDOW, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">GABLE AT ST. ALDATE'S COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BOW WINDOW, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p>As we float along the quiet Thames the stately towers and domes of the
+university city of Oxford come in sight, and appear to suddenly rise
+from behind a green railway embankment. Here the Cherwell flows along
+the Christ Church meadows to join the great river, and we pause at the
+ancient Ousenford&mdash;or the ford over the Ouse or Water&mdash;a name which time
+has changed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> to Oxford. The origin of the famous university is involved
+in obscurity. The city is mentioned as the scene of important political
+and military events from the time of King Alfred, but the first
+undisputed evidence that it was a seat of learning dates from the
+twelfth century. Religious houses existed there in earlier years, and to
+these schools were attached for the education of the clergy. From these
+schools sprang the secular institutions that finally developed into
+colleges, and common interest led to the association from which
+ultimately came the university. The first known application of the word
+to this association occurs in a statute of King John. In the thirteenth
+century there were three thousand students at Oxford, and Henry III.
+granted the university its first charter. In those early times the
+university grew in wealth and numbers, and intense hostility was
+developed between the students and townspeople, leading to the quarrels
+between "Town and Gown" that existed for centuries, and caused frequent
+riots and bloodshed. A penance for one of these disturbances, which
+occurred in 1355 and sacrificed several lives, continued to be kept
+until 1825. The religious troubles in Henry VIII.'s time reduced the
+students to barely one thousand, but a small part of whom attended the
+colleges, so that in 1546 only thirteen degrees were conferred. In 1603
+the university was given representation in Parliament; it was loyal to
+Charles I., and melted its plate to assist him, so that after his
+downfall it was plundered, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> almost ceased to have an existence as an
+institution of learning; it has since had a quiet and generally
+prosperous history. The university comprises twenty-one colleges, the
+oldest being University College, founded in 1249, and the youngest the
+Keble Memorial College, founded in 1870. University College, according
+to tradition, represents a school founded by King Alfred in 872, and it
+celebrated its millennial anniversary in 1872. Balliol College, founded
+between 1263 and 1268, admits no one who claims any privilege on account
+of rank or wealth, and is regarded as having perhaps the highest
+standard of scholarship at Oxford. Christ Church College is the most
+extensive in buildings, numbers, and endowments, and is a cathedral
+establishment as well as college. There are now about eighty-five
+hundred members of the university and twenty-five hundred
+undergraduates. The wealth of some of the colleges is enormous, and they
+are said to own altogether nearly two hundred thousand acres of land in
+different parts of the kingdom, and to have about $2,100,000 annual
+revenues, of which they expend not over $1,500,000, the remainder
+accumulating. They also have in their gift four hundred and forty-four
+benefices, with an annual income of $950,000. It costs a student about
+$1200 to $1500 a year<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to live at Oxford, and about $325 in university
+and college fees from matriculation to graduation, when he gets his
+degree of B.A., or, if inattentive, fails to pass the examination, and,
+in Oxford parlance, is said to be "plucked."</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE OXFORD COLLEGES.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;">
+<img src="images/p145.jpg" width="271" height="550" alt="GATEWAY OF CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p146-2" id="p146-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/p146-2.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="GATEWAY, MERTON COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, MERTON COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The enumeration of the colleges which make up the university will
+naturally begin with the greatest, Christ Church, founded by Cardinal
+Wolsey, of which the principal fa&ccedil;ade extends four hundred feet along
+St. Aldate's Street, and has a noble gateway in the centre surmounted by
+a six-sided tower with a dome-like roof. Here hangs the great bell of
+Oxford, "Old Tom," weighing seventeen thousand pounds, which every
+night, just after nine o'clock, strikes one hundred and one strokes,
+said to be in remembrance of the number of members the college had at
+its foundation. Wolsey's statue stands in the gateway which leads into
+the great quadrangle,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> called by the students, for short, "Tom Quad."
+Here are the lodgings of the dean and canons, and also the Great Hall,
+the finest in Oxford, and the room where the sovereign is received
+whenever visiting the city. The ancient kitchen adjoins the hall, and
+near by is the entrance to the cathedral, which has been restored, and
+the ancient cloisters. From the buildings a meadow extends down to the
+rivers, the Cherwell on the left and the Thames (here called the Isis)
+on the right, which join at the lower part of the meadow. Beautiful
+walks are laid out upon it, including the famous Oxford promenade, the
+Broad Walk, a stately avenue of elms bordering one side of the meadow.
+Here, on the afternoon of Show Sunday, which comes immediately before
+Commemoration Day, nearly all the members of the university and the
+students, in academic costume, make a promenade, presenting an animated
+scene.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;">
+<a name="p146" id="p146"></a>
+<img src="images/p146-1.jpg" width="480" height="600" alt="MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 433px;">
+<a name="p147" id="p147"></a>
+<img src="images/p147.jpg" width="433" height="550" alt="ORIEL COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ORIEL COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Corpus Christi College was founded by Bishop Fox of Winchester in 1516,
+and its quadrangle, which remains much as at the foundation, contains
+the founder's statue, and also a remarkable dial, in the centre of which
+is a perpetual calendar. This college is not very marked in
+architecture. It stands at the back of Christ Church, and adjoining it
+is Merton College, founded in 1264 by Walter de Merton. His idea was to
+forbid the students following in after life any other pursuit than that
+of parish priest. The chapel of Merton is one of the finest in Oxford,
+and its massive tower is a city landmark. The entrance-gateway,
+surmounted by a sculptured representation of St. John the Baptist, is
+attractive, and the two college quadrangles are picturesque, the "Mob
+Quad," or library quadrangle, being five hundred years<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> old, with the
+Treasury and its high-pitched ashlar roof and dormer windows above one
+of the entrance-passages. St. Alban Hall, built about 1230, adjoins
+Merton, and is a Gothic structure with a curious old bell-tower. Oriel
+College stands opposite Corpus Christi, but the ancient buildings of the
+foundation in 1324-26 have all been superseded by comparatively modern
+structures of the seventeenth century: though without any striking
+architectural merits, the hall and chapel of this college are extremely
+picturesque. Its fame is not so much from its buildings as from some of
+its fellows, Whately, Keble, Wilberforce, Newman, Pusey, and Arnold
+having been among them. St. Mary's Hall, an offshoot founded in the
+fourteenth century, stands near this college. All Souls College is on
+the High Street, and was founded in 1437, its buildings being, however,
+modern, excepting one quadrangle. In the chapel is a magnificent
+reredos, presented by Lord Bathurst, who was a fellow of All Souls, and
+containing figures representing most of the fellows of his time: in the
+library are Wren's original designs for building St. Paul's. This
+college was founded by Archbishop Chichele for "the hele of his soul"
+and of the souls of all those who perished in the French wars of King
+Henry V.; hence its name. We are told that the good archbishop was much
+troubled where to locate his college, and there appeared to him in a
+dream a "right godly personage," who advised him to build it on the High
+Street, and at a certain spot where he would be sure in digging to find
+a "mallard, imprisoned but well fattened, in the sewer." He hesitated,
+but all whom he consulted advised him to make the trial, and
+accordingly, on a fixed day after mass, with due solemnity the digging
+began. They had not dug long, the story relates, before they heard "amid
+the earth horrid strugglings and flutterings and violent quackings of
+the distressed mallard." When he was brought out he was as big as an
+ostrich, and "much wonder was thereat, for the lycke had not been seen
+in this londe nor in onie odir." The Festival of the Mallard was long
+held in commemoration of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> event, at which was sung the "Merry Song
+of the All Souls Mallard," beginning&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Griffin, bustard, turkey, capon,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Let other hungry mortals gape on,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And on the bones their stomach fill hard;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But let All Souls men have their mallard.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Oh, by the blood of King Edward,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">It was a wopping, wopping mallard!"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>While the festival has passed away, the song is still sung at Oxford,
+and the tale has given rise to much literature, there having been
+vigorous contests waged over the authenticity of the mallard.</p>
+
+<p>University College, also on the High Street, though the earliest
+founded, now has no building older than the seventeenth century. It has
+an imposing Gothic front with two tower-gateways, while the recently
+constructed New Building is an elegant structure erected in 1850.
+Queen's College, founded in 1341 by Queen Philippa's confessor, and
+hence its name, is a modern building by Wren and his pupils. St. Edmund
+Hall, opposite Queen's College, is a plain building, but with
+magnificent ivy on its walls.</p>
+
+
+<h3>MAGDALEN AND BRASENOSE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p148" id="p148"></a>
+<img src="images/p148.jpg" width="500" height="372" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE CLOISTERS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE CLOISTERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Bishop Patten of Winchester, who was surnamed Waynflete, founded
+Magdalen College in 1458. It stands by the side of the Cherwell, and its
+graceful tower, nearly four hundred years old, rises one hundred and
+forty-five feet&mdash;one of the most beautiful constructions in Oxford. Its
+quadrangles are fine, especially the one known as the Cloisters, which
+remains much as it was in the time of the founder, and is ornamented
+with rude sandstone statues erected in honor of a visit from King James
+I. In accordance with ancient custom, on the morning of the first of
+May, just as five o'clock strikes, a solemn Te Deum is sung on the top
+of Magdalen Tower, where the choristers assemble in surplices and with
+uncovered heads. When it closes the crowd on the ground below give out
+discordant blasts from myriads of tin horns, but the Magdalen chime of
+bells, said to be "the most tunable and melodious ring of bells in all
+these parts and beyond," soon drowns the discord, and gives a glad
+welcome<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> to the opening of spring. This custom survives from the time of
+Henry VII., and the produce of two acres of land given to the college by
+that king is used to pay for a feast for the choristers, spread later in
+the day in the college hall. The college has a meadow and small
+deer-park attached, known as the Magdalen Walks, and encircled by the
+arms of the Cherwell, while avenues of trees along raised dykes
+intersect it. The avenue on the north side of this meadow is known as
+"Addison's Walk," and was much frequented by him when at this college.
+The little deer-park, a secluded spot, abounds with magnificent elms. It
+was at Magdalen that Wolsey was educated, being known as the "Boy
+Bachelor," as he got his B.A. degree at the early age of fifteen. The
+Botanic Garden is opposite Magdalen College, having a fine gateway with
+statues of Charles I. and II. Magdalen College School, a modern
+building, but an organization coeval with the college, is a short
+distance to the westward.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;">
+<a name="p149" id="p149"></a>
+<img src="images/p149.jpg" width="275" height="500" alt="FOUNDER&#39;S TOWER, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FOUNDER&#39;S TOWER, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 501px;">
+<a name="p150" id="p150"></a>
+<img src="images/p150.jpg" width="501" height="600" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The King's Hall, commonly known as Brasenose College, and over the
+entrance of which is a prominent brazen nose, still retains its chief
+buildings as originally founded by the Bishop of Lincoln and Sir Richard
+Sutton in 1512. The entrance-tower was recently restored, and the rooms
+occupied by Bishop Heber, who was a member of this college, are still
+pointed out, with their windows looking upon a large horse-chestnut tree
+in the adjoining Exeter Gardens. This famous college is said to occupy
+the spot where King Alfred's palace stood,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> and hence its name of the
+King's Hall, which the king in his laws styled his palace. The part of
+the palace which was used for the brew-house, or the <i>brasinium</i>,
+afterwards became the college, and as early as Edward I. this found
+ocular demonstration by the fixing of a brazen nose upon the gate. This
+is also a relic of Friar Bacon's brazen head. We are told that this
+famous friar, who lived at Oxford in the thirteenth century, became
+convinced, "after great study," that if he should succeed in making a
+head of brass which could speak, "he might be able to surround all
+England with a wall of brass." So, with the assistance of another friar
+and the devil, he went to work and accomplished it, but with the
+drawback that the brazen head when finished was "warranted to speak in
+the course of one month," but it was uncertain just when it would speak,
+and "if they heard it not before it had done speaking, all their labor
+would be lost." They watched it three weeks, but fatigue overmastered
+them, and Bacon set his servant on watch, with orders to awaken them if
+the head should speak. At the end of one half hour the fellow heard the
+head say, "Time is;" at the end of another, "Time was;" and at the end
+of a third half hour, "Time's past," when down fell the head with a
+tremendous crash. The blockhead thought his master would be angry if
+disturbed by such trifles, and this ended the experiment with the brazen
+head. Yet Friar Bacon was a much wiser man than would be supposed by
+those who only know him from this tale. He was esteemed the most learned
+man ever at the great university, and it is considered doubtful if any
+there in later years surpassed him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>NEW COLLEGE AND RADCLIFFE LIBRARY.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p151" id="p151"></a></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p151.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:560px; height:550px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:300px; height:160px;"> </div>
+
+
+
+<p>William of Wykeham founded the New College, or the College of St. Mary
+Winton, in 1380. It has a noble entrance, and in a niche above the
+gateway is the Virgin, to whom an angel and the founder are addressing
+themselves in prayer. The chapel has a massive detached bell-tower, and
+in its windows are some fine stained glass, while the silver staff of
+William of Wykeham is still preserved there. The cloisters are extensive
+and picturesque, the ribbed roof resembling the bottom of a boat, while
+the restored hall has a fine oaken roof. The New College gardens are
+enclosed on three sides by the ancient walls of the city, which are well
+preserved, and the enclo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>sure is one of the most beautiful in Oxford.
+Through a door in a corner of the gardens there is a passageway opening
+out of one of the bastions of the old walls into a strip of ground
+called the "Slype," where a fine view is had of the bastions, with the
+college bell-tower and chapel behind them. In making a recent addition
+to the buildings of this college on the edge of the "Slype," the workmen
+in digging for the foundations discovered the remains of a mammoth.</p>
+
+<p>New College Lane leads to Radcliffe Square, in the centre of which is
+located the handsome Radcliffe Library, with colleges, churches, and
+schools all around the square. Dr. Radcliffe, who was the
+court-physician of King William III. and Queen Anne, founded this
+library, which is in a handsome rotunda surmounted by a dome on an
+octagonal base. The structure, which is one hundred feet in diameter,
+rises to a height of one hundred and forty feet, and from the top there
+is a fine view of the city. To the northward, at a short distance, are
+the Schools, a quadrangular building, now chiefly occupied by the famous
+Bodleian Library. From Radcliffe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> Square the entrance is through a
+vaulted passage, the central gate-tower being a remarkable example of
+the combination of the five orders of architecture piled one above the
+other. In this building, on the lower floor, the public examinations of
+the candidates for degrees are held, while above is the library which
+Sir Thomas Bodley founded in the sixteenth century, and which contains
+three hundred thousand volumes, including many ancient and highly-prized
+works in print and manuscript.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p152-2" id="p152-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p152-2.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, FROM THE QUADRANGLE OF BRASENOSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, FROM THE QUADRANGLE OF BRASENOSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p152-1" id="p152-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p152-1/153-1">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p152-1.jpg" width="298" height="450"
+ alt="NEW COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p153-1.jpg" width="270" height="450"
+ alt="DINING-HALL, EXETER COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">NEW COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">DINING-HALL, EXETER COLLEGE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p>Lincoln College was founded by Richard Flemyng, Bishop of Lincoln, in
+1427. Here John Wesley was a member, and the pulpit from which he
+preached is still kept as a precious relic. Opposite to Lincoln is Jesus
+College, founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1571, though others assisted; it
+was intended to be exclusively for Welshmen, but this has since been
+changed. The chapel has a double chancel. Alongside of Lincoln is Exeter
+College, founded by Walter Stapleton of Exeter in 1314: this is one of
+the largest colleges, the greater part of the buildings being modern;
+they are among the finest in Oxford. The hall, restored in the present
+century, has a high-pitched timber roof, while the chapel, which is one
+of the most remarkable edifices in Oxford, has a thin, small spire that
+is conspicuous from a great distance. The Ashmolean Museum adjoins
+Exeter College, and next to this is the Sheldonian Theatre, built in
+1669 by Archbishop Sheldon of Canterbury, where the annual commemoration
+is held and the honorary degrees are conferred. Not far away is Wadham
+College, founded in 1613 by Nicholas Wadham and Dorothy his wife. It
+has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> excellent buildings and a most beautiful garden. There is a new
+Museum of Natural History in the park near by, and also Keble College,
+founded in 1868 as a memorial of Rev. John Keble, the author of the
+<i>Christian Year</i>. Its buildings are of variegated brick, the chapel
+being the loftiest, most costly, and finest of its style in Oxford. The
+building is a perfect glare of coloring.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 208px;">
+<a name="p153-2" id="p153-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p153-2.jpg" width="208" height="450" alt="TRINITY COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TRINITY COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p154-1" id="p154-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p154-1/154-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p154-1.jpg" width="238" height="450"
+ alt="WINDOW IN ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, GARDEN FRONT." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p154-2.jpg" width="302" height="450"
+ alt="TOWER ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">WINDOW IN ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, GARDEN FRONT.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">TOWER ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p>Trinity College was founded in 1554 by Sir Thomas Pope. Its tower and
+chapel are Grecian, and the chapel has a most beautiful carved screen
+and altarpiece. The library contains a chalice that once belonged to St.
+Alban's Abbey. Kettel Hall, now a private dwelling, is a picturesque
+building in front of Trinity. On Broad Street, where Trinity stands, is
+also Balliol College, founded in the thirteenth century by John Balliol.
+None of the existing buildings are earlier than the fifteenth century,
+while the south front, with its massive tower, has just been rebuilt. It
+was here that the martyrs Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley were burned. A
+little farther along the same street is St. John's College, which Sir
+Thomas White founded in 1557. It is fronted by a terrace planted with
+fine elms. Its quadrangles and cloisters are much admired, especially
+the venerable oriel windows and quaint stone gables of the library. St.
+John's gardens are regarded as among the most attractive in Oxford.
+Opposite St. John's are the university galleries, with their display of
+the Pomfret Marbles and Raphael and Michel Angelo's paintings and
+drawings, and behind this building is Worcester College, founded in 1714
+by Sir Thomas Cookes. Its gardens contain a lake. Pembroke College is
+opposite Christ Church, and was founded in 1624 in honor of the Earl of
+Pembroke, then the chancellor of the university. While its
+entrance-gateway and hall, recently built, are fine, the other buildings
+are not attractive. The chief remembrance of Pembroke is of Dr. Samuel
+Johnson, who occupied apartments over the original gateway, but was
+compelled by poverty to leave the college before taking his degree. This
+completes the description of the colleges, halls, and schools of the
+great university, which presents an array of institutions of learning
+unrivalled in any part of the world, and of which Englishmen are justly
+proud.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>OXFORD CHURCHES AND CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 234px;">
+<img src="images/p155.jpg" width="234" height="550" alt="OXFORD CHURCHES AND CASTLE" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>There are some fine churches in Oxford, notably the university church of
+St. Mary the Virgin, conspicuous from its Decorated spire rising one
+hundred and eighty-eight feet, which is a memorial of Queen Eleanor of
+Castile. A short distance to the westward is All Saints Church. Fronting
+Christ Church is St. Aldate's Church, also with a lofty spire and
+Decorated tower. Like most English towns, Oxford had a castle, but its
+remains are now reduced to a solitary tower, a few fragments of wall,
+and a high mound. This castle has long been the property of Christ
+Church, and was used for a prison, whence Cranmer and his fellow-martyrs
+went to the stake. The old tower was built in the days of William Rufus.
+Beneath the ruins is a crypt known as Maud's Chapel. In the centre of
+the mound is an octagonal vaulted chamber, approached by a long flight
+of steps, and containing a well. It was in this castle that the empress
+Maud was besieged by King Stephen in 1141, but escaped in the night, the
+castle surrendering next morning. The ground was covered with snow at
+the time, and the empress, with three attendants, clad in white, passed
+unnoticed through the lines of the besiegers and crossed the Thames on
+the ice. Just before this Maud escaped from the castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> of Devizes as a
+dead body drawn on a hearse. The castle of Oxford has been in a
+dilapidated condition since Edward III.'s time. As an evidence of the
+change of opinion, the Martyrs' Memorial stands on St. Giles Street in
+honor of the martyrs who found the old tower of the castle their
+prison-house until the bigots of that day were ready to burn them at the
+stake in front of Balliol College.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 236px;">
+<img src="images/p156.jpg" width="236" height="550" alt="ALL SAINTS, FROM HIGH STREET." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ALL SAINTS, FROM HIGH STREET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The intersection of the four principal streets of old Oxford makes what
+is called the Carfax (a word derived from <i>quatre voies</i>), and here in
+the olden time stood a picturesque conduit. Conduits in former years
+were ornaments in many English towns, and some of them still remain in
+their original locations. This conduit, which stood in the way of
+traffic, was presented as a nuisance as long ago as the time of Laud,
+and Lord Harcourt in 1787 removed it to his park at Nuneham. One of the
+curious changes that have come over some Oxford landmarks is related of
+a group of statues in the entrance to the Schools, where the Bodleian
+Library is located. This group represents Mater Academia giving a book
+to King James I., sitting in his chair of state, while winged Fame
+trumpets the gift throughout the world. When the king saw this,
+embellished with appropriate mottoes, all of which were gloriously gilt,
+the ancient historian says he exclaimed, "By my soul! this is too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+glorious for Jeamy," and caused the gilded mottoes to be "whited out."
+Originally, the statue of the king held a sceptre in his right hand, and
+a book, commonly taken for the Bible, in his left. Both have
+disappeared. The sceptre is said to have fallen upon the passing of the
+Reform Bill, and the book came down about the time of the abolition of
+the University Tests. The eastern part of Oxford is meadow-and
+garden-land, extending down to the two famous rivers which unite just
+below the town, and along whose shores the racing-boats in which the
+students take so much interest are moored. Pretty bridges span both
+streams, and we follow down the Thames again, skirting along its
+picturesque shores past Iffley, with its romantic old mill and the
+ancient church with its square tower rising behind, well-known landmarks
+that are so familiar to boating-men, till we come to Nuneham Park, with
+the old Carfax Conduit set on an eminence, and Blenheim Woods looming up
+in the background, as we look towards Oxford.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 532px;">
+<a name="p157-1" id="p157-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p157-1.jpg" width="532" height="600" alt="CARFAX CONDUIT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CARFAX CONDUIT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p157-2" id="p157-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 298px;">
+<img src="images/p157-2.jpg" width="298" height="450" alt="IFFLEY MILL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IFFLEY MILL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p style="margin-top: 10em;">The church of Iffley is beautifully situated on the Thames, but little
+is known of its origin or history. It was in existence in 1189, when
+King Henry II. died, and its architecture indicates that it could
+scarcely have been built much before that time. It is an unusually good
+specimen of the Norman style, and is in wonderful preservation,
+considering its age. This church is peculiarly rich in its doorways,
+having three of great value, and each differ<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>ing from the other. The
+southern doorway is enriched with sculptured flowers, a style that is
+almost unique in Norman architecture; it also contains rudely carved
+imitations of Roman centaurs. On the south side of the church is an
+ancient cross and one of the most venerable yew trees in the kingdom, in
+the trunk of which time has made a hollow where a man could easily
+conceal himself. There is not on all the Thames a scene more loved by
+artists than that at Iffley, with its old mill and church embosomed in
+foliage, and having an occasional fisherman lazily angling in the smooth
+waters before them, while the Oxford oarsmen, some in fancy costumes,
+paddle by.</p>
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;">
+<a name="p158" id="p158"></a>
+<img src="images/p158.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="IFFLEY CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IFFLEY CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BANBURY AND BROUGHTON.</h3>
+
+<p>If we go up the Cherwell towards the northern part of Oxfordshire, a
+brief visit can be paid to the famous town of Banbury, noted for its
+"castle, cross, and cakes." This was an ancient Roman station, and the
+amphitheatre still exists just out of town. The castle was built in the
+twelfth century, and many conflicts raged around it. Queen Elizabeth
+granted the castle to Lord Saye and Sele, and one of his successors
+first organized the revolt against Charles I. at his neighboring mansion
+of Broughton. Banbury was a great Puritan stronghold, and it is related
+that when a book descriptive of Banbury was being printed in those days,
+it contained a sentence describing Banbury as remarkable for its cheese,
+cakes, and ale. One Camden, looking at the press while the sheet was
+being printed, thought this too light an expression, and changed the
+word <i>ale</i> into <i>zeal</i>, so that the town became noted for Banbury<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> zeal
+as well as cheese and cakes. The old castle, after standing several
+desperate sieges, was demolished by the Puritans, and nothing now
+remains excepting the moat and a small remnant of wall on which a
+cottage has been built. The Banbury cakes are mentioned as early as
+1686, and they are still in high repute, being sent to all parts of the
+world. The Banbury cheese of which Shakespeare wrote is no longer made.
+The Banbury cross has been immortalized in nursery-rhymes, but it was
+taken down by the Puritans. The rhyme tells the little folk.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/p159.jpg" width="448" height="600" alt="CROMWELL&#39;S PARLIAMENT-HOUSE, BANBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CROMWELL&#39;S PARLIAMENT-HOUSE, BANBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Ride a cock-horse to Banbury Cross,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To see a fine lady ride on a white horse;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With rings on her fingers and bells on her toes,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">She shall have music wherever she goes."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p>Diligent research has developed some important information about this
+fine lady. It appears that in "the Second Edward's reign a knight of
+much renown, yclept Lord Herbert, chanced to live near famous Banbury
+town." Now, this knight had one son left, and "fearless and brave was
+he; and it raised the pride in the father's heart his gallant son to
+see." The poetic tale goes on to relate "that near Lord Herbert's
+ancient hall proud Banbury Castle stood, within the noble walls of which
+dwelt a maiden young and good;" with much more to the same effect. There
+is the usual result: the knight loves the lady, has a mortal combat with
+the rival, and nearly loses his life. The fair lady nurses him with
+care, but as he gradually sinks she loses hope and pines away. A holy
+monk lived in the castle, and, noticing her despondency, offers to
+effect a cure. He prescribes: "To-morrow, at the midnight hour, go to
+the cross alone: for Edward's rash and hasty deed perhaps thou mayst
+atone." She goes there, walks around the cross, and Edward is cured.
+Then all rejoice, and a festival is ordered, whereat,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Upon a milk-white steed, a lady doth appear:</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">By all she's welcomed lustily in one tremendous cheer:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With rings of brilliant lustre her fingers are bedecked,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And bells upon her palfrey hung to give the whole effect."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>A noble cavalier rode beside her, and the result has been</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"That even in the present time the custom's not forgot;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But few there are who know the tale connected with the spot,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Though to each baby in the land the nursery-rhymes are told</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">About the lady robed in white and Banbury Cross of old."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 459px;">
+<a name="p160" id="p160"></a>
+<img src="images/p160.jpg" width="459" height="500" alt="BERKS AND WILTS CANAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BERKS AND WILTS CANAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Broughton Castle is a fine castellated mansion a short distance
+south-west of Banbury. It dates from the Elizabethan era, and its owner,
+Viscount Saye and Sele, in Charles I.'s reign, thinking that his
+services were not sufficiently rewarded, took the side of Parliament, in
+which his son represented Banbury. When the king dissolved Parliament,
+it assembled clandestinely in Broughton Castle. Here the Parliamentary
+leaders met in a room with thick walls, so that no sounds could escape.
+Here also were raised the earliest troops for the Parliament, and the
+"Blue-coats" of the Sayes were conspicuous at the battle of Edgehill,
+which was fought only a few miles away. Immediately afterwards King
+Charles besieged Broughton Castle, captured and plundered it. This
+famous old building witnessed in this way the earliest steps that led to
+the English Revolution, and it is kept in quite good preservation.
+Subsequently, when Oliver Cromwell became the leader of the
+Parliamentary party, he held his Parliament in Banbury at the Roebuck
+Inn, a fine piece of architecture, with a great window that lights up
+one of the best rooms in England of the earlier days of the Elizabethan
+era. A low door leads from the courtyard to this noted council-chamber
+where Cromwell held his Parliament, and it remains in much the same
+condition as then.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Through Oxfordshire is laid out one of those picturesque water-ways of
+the olden time&mdash;the Berks and Wilts Canal&mdash;which, though almost
+superseded by the omnipresent railway, still exists to furnish pretty
+scenery with its shady towing-paths and rustic swing-bridges. Almost the
+only traffic that remains to this canal, which comes out upon the Thames
+near Oxford, is carrying timber. The growth of English timber is slow,
+but some is still produced by the process of thinning the woods so as to
+make shapely trees, for otherwise the tall trunks would force themselves
+up almost without spreading branches.</p>
+
+
+<h3>WOODSTOCK AND BLENHEIM.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p161" id="p161"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">CHAUCER'S HOUSE.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p161.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:100px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:340px; height:40px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:390px; height:420px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Not far away from Oxford is the manor of Woodstock, where "Fair
+Rosamond's Bower" was built by King Henry II. This manor was an early
+residence of the kings of England, and Henry I. built a palace there,
+adding to it a vast park. Of this palace not a sign is now to be seen,
+but two sycamores have been planted to mark the spot. The poet Chaucer
+lived at Woodstock, and is supposed to have taken much of the
+descriptive scenery of his <i>Dream</i> from the park. Edward the Black
+Prince, son of Edward III., was born at Woodstock. Henry VII. enlarged
+the palace, and put his name upon the principal gate; and this
+gate-house was one of the prisons of the princess Elizabeth, where she
+was detained by her sister, Queen Mary. Elizabeth is said to have
+written with charcoal on a window-shutter of her apartment, in 1555, a
+brief poem lamenting her imprisonment. Her room had an arched roof
+formed of carved Irish oak and colored with blue and gold, and it was
+preserved until taken down by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough. In the
+Civil War the palace was besieged, and after surrender, unlike most
+similar structures, escaped demo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>lition. Cromwell allotted it to three
+persons, two of whom pulled down their portions for the sake of the
+stone. Charles II. appointed the Earl of Rochester gentleman of the
+bedchamber and comptroller of Woodstock Park, and it is said that he
+here scribbled upon the door of the bedchamber of the king the
+well-known mock epitaph:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here lies our sovereign lord, the king.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whose word no man relies on;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He never says a foolish thing,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Nor ever does a wise one."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>In Queen Anne's reign Woodstock was granted to John Churchill, Duke of
+Marlborough, for his eminent military services. The condition of the
+grant, which is still scrupulously performed, was that on August 2d in
+every year he and his heirs should present to the reigning monarch at
+Windsor Castle one stand of colors, with three fleurs-de-lis painted
+thereon. The estate was named Blenheim, after the little village on the
+Danube which was the scene of his greatest victory on August 2, 1704.
+Ten years later, the duchess Sarah took down the remains of the old
+palace of Woodstock, and Scott has woven its history into one of his
+later novels. Hardly any trace remains of old Woodstock, and the only
+ruin of interest is a curious chimney-shaft of the fourteenth century,
+which a probably inaccurate tradition says was part of the residence of
+the Black Prince.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Woodstock Park covers twenty-seven hundred acres, and is nearly twelve
+miles in circuit, abounding with fine trees and having an undulating
+surface, over which roam a large herd of deer and a number of kangaroos.
+When the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> manor was granted to the Duke of Marlborough, Parliament voted
+a sum of money to build him a palace "as a monument of his glorious
+actions." The park is entered through a fine Corinthian gateway, built
+by the duchess Sarah in memory of her husband the year after his death.
+A pretty stream of water, the river Glyme, with a lake, winds through a
+valley in front of the palace, and is crossed by a stately stone bridge
+with a centre arch of one hundred feet span. Not far from this bridge
+was Fair Rosamond's Bower, now marked by a wall; beyond the bridge,
+standing on the lawn, is the Marlborough Column, a fluted Corinthian
+pillar one hundred and thirty-four feet high, surmounted by the hero in
+Roman dress and triumphal attitude. This monument to the great duke has
+an account of his victories inscribed on one face of the pedestal, while
+on the others are the acts of Parliament passed in his behalf, and an
+abstract of the entail of his estates and honors upon the descendants of
+his daughters. Parliament voted $2,500,000 to build Blenheim Palace, to
+which the duke added $300,000 from his own resources. The duke died
+seventeen years after the palace was begun, leaving it unfinished. We
+are told that the trees in the park were planted according to the
+position of the troops at Blenheim. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> architect of the palace was
+John Vanbrugh, of whom the satirical epitaph was written:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Lie heavy on him, Earth, for he</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Laid many a heavy load on thee."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 486px;">
+<a name="p162" id="p162"></a>
+<img src="images/p162.jpg" width="486" height="550" alt="OLD REMAINS AT WOODSTOCK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD REMAINS AT WOODSTOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p163" id="p163"></a>
+<img src="images/p163.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="BLENHEIM PALACE, FROM THE LAKE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BLENHEIM PALACE, FROM THE LAKE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The palace is a massive structure, with spacious portals and lofty
+towers, and its principal front, which faces the north, extends three
+hundred and forty-eight feet from wing to wing, with a portico and
+flight of steps in the centre. The interior is very fine, with
+magnificently-painted ceilings, tapestries, statuary, and a rare
+collection of pictures. The tapestries represent Blenheim and other
+battles, and there are one hundred and twenty copies of famous masters,
+made by Teniers. A stately statue of Queen Anne stands in the library.
+There are costly collections of enamels, plaques, and miniatures; on the
+walls are huge paintings by Sir James Thornhill, one representing the
+great duke, in a blue cuirass, kneeling before Britannia, clad in white
+and holding a lance and wreath; Hercules and Mars stand by, and there
+are emblem-bearing females and the usual paraphernalia. We are told that
+Thornhill was paid for these at the rate of about six dollars per square
+yard. The duchess Sarah also poses in the collection as Minerva, wearing
+a yellow classic breastplate. Among other relics kept in the palace are
+Oliver Cromwell's teapot, another teapot presented by the Duc de
+Richelieu to Louis XIV., two bottles that belonged to Queen Anne, and
+some Roman and Grecian pottery. The great hall, which has the battle of
+Blenheim depicted on its ceiling, extends the entire height of the
+building; the library is one hundred and eighty-three feet long; and in
+the chapel, beneath a pompous marble monument, rest the great duke and
+his proud duchess Sarah, and their two sons, who died in early years.
+The pleasure-gardens extend over three hundred acres along the borders
+of the lake and river, and are very attractive. They contain the Temple
+of Health erected on the recovery of George III. from his illness, an
+aviary, a cascade elaborately constructed of large masses of rock, a
+fountain copied after one in Rome, and a temple of Diana. This great
+estate was the reward of the soldier whose glories were sung by Addison
+in his poem on the <i>Campaign</i>. Addison then lived in a garret up three
+pair of stairs over a small shop in the Haymarket, London, whither went
+the Chancellor of the Exchequer to get him to write the poem, and
+afterwards gave him a place worth $1000 a year as a reward. The
+Marlboroughs since have been almost too poor to keep up this magnificent
+estate in its proper style, for the family of Spencer-Churchill, which
+now holds the title, unlike most of the other great English houses, has
+not been blessed with a princely private fortune. Not far from Woodstock
+is Minster Lovel, near the village of Whitney. Some fragments of the
+house remain, and it has its tale<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> of interest, like all these old
+houses. Lord Lovel was one of the supporters of the impostor Simnel
+against Henry VII., and his rebellion being defeated in the decisive
+battle at Stoke in Nottinghamshire, Lord Lovel escaped by unfrequented
+roads and arrived home at night. He was so disguised that he was only
+known by a single servant, on whose fidelity he could rely. Before
+daybreak he retired to a subterranean recess, of which this servant
+retained the key, and here he remained several months in safe
+concealment. The king confiscated the estate, however, and dispersed the
+household, so that the voluntary prisoner perished from hunger. During
+the last century, when this stately house was pulled down, the vault was
+discovered, with Lord Lovel seated in a chair as he had died. So
+completely had rubbish excluded the air that his dress, which was
+described as superb, and a prayer-book lying before him on the table,
+were entire, but soon after the admission of the air the body is said to
+have fallen into dust.</p>
+
+
+<h3>BICESTER AND EYNSHAM.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p166-1" id="p166-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p166-1.jpg" width="600" height="458" alt="BICESTER MARKET." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BICESTER MARKET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p165" id="p165"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 383px;">
+<img src="images/p165.jpg" width="383" height="450" alt="BICESTER PRIORY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BICESTER PRIORY.</span>
+</div>
+<p>A pleasant and old-fashioned town, not far away from Oxford, is
+Bicester, whereof one part is known as the King's End and the other as
+the Market End. Here is the famous Bicester Priory, founded in the
+twelfth century through the influence of Thomas &agrave; Becket. It was
+intended for a prior and eleven canons, in imitation of Christ and his
+eleven disciples. The priory buildings remained for some time after the
+dissolution of the religious houses, but they gradually disappeared, and
+all that now exists is a small farm-house about forty feet long which
+formed part of the boundary-wall of the priory, and is supposed to have
+been a lodge for the accommodation of travellers. In the garden was a
+well of never-failing water held in high repute by pilgrims, and which
+now supplies a fish-pond. The priory and its estates have passed in
+regular succession through females from its founder, Gilbert Basset, to
+the Stanleys, and it is now one of the possessions of the Earl of Derby.
+Bicester is an excellent specimen of an ancient English market-town, and
+its curious block of market-buildings, occupied by at least twenty-five
+tenements, stands alone and clear in the marketplace. There are
+antique gables, one of the most youthful of which bears the date of
+1698. On the top is a promenade used by the occupants in summer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>
+weather. In the neighboring village of Eynsham is said to be the stone
+coffin that once held Fair Rosamond's remains, but it has another
+occupant, one Alderman Fletcher having also been buried in it in 1826.
+Eynsham once had an abbey, of which still survives the shaft of a stone
+cross quaintly carved with the figures of saints. It is a relic probably
+of the thirteenth century, but nothing remains of the abbey beyond a few
+stones that may have belonged to it. It was near Eynsham, not very long
+ago, that a strange dark-green water-plant first made its appearance in
+the Thames, and spread so rapidly that it soon quite choked the
+navigation of the river, and from there soon extended almost all over
+the kingdom. The meadows and the rivers became practically all alike, a
+green expanse, in which from an eminence it was difficult to tell where
+the water-courses lay. This plant was called the "American weed," the
+allegation being that it came over in a cargo of timber from the St.
+Lawrence. It caused great consternation, but just when matters looked
+almost hopeless it gradually withered and died, bringing the navigation
+welcome relief.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;">
+<a name="p166" id="p166"></a>
+<img src="images/p166-2.jpg" width="374" height="500" alt="CROSS AT EYNSHAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CROSS AT EYNSHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>ABINGDON AND RADLEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;">
+<a name="p167" id="p167"></a>
+<img src="images/p167.jpg" width="361" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO ABINGDON ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO ABINGDON ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Crossing over into Berkshire, we find, a short distance south of Oxford,
+on the bank of the Thames, the ruins of the once extensive and
+magnificent Abingdon Abbey, founded in the seventh century. It was here
+that Henry, the son of William the Conqueror, was educated and gained
+his appellation of Beauclerc. The gatehouse still remains, and is at
+present devoted to the use of fire-engines, but there is not much else
+remaining of the abbey save a remarkable chimney and fireplace and some
+fragments of walls. We are told that the Saxons founded this abbey, and
+that the Danes destroyed it, while King Alfred deprived the monks of
+their possessions, but his grandson &AElig;dred restored them. The abbey was
+then built, and became afterwards richly endowed. For six centuries it
+was one of the great religious houses of this part of England; and the
+Benedictines, true to their creed, toiled every day in the fields as
+well as prayed in the church. They began the day by religious services;
+then assembled in the chapter-house, where each was allotted his task
+and tools, and after a brief prayer they silently marched out in double
+file to the fields. From Easter until October they were thus occupied
+from six in the morning until ten o'clock, and sometimes until noon.
+Thus they promoted thrift, and as their settlement extended it became
+the centre of a rich agricultural colony, for they often, as their lands
+expanded, let them out to farmers. A short distance from Abingdon is
+Radley, which was formerly the manor of the abbey, and contains a
+beautiful little church, wealthy in its stores of rich woodwork and
+stained glass; it stands in the middle of the woods in a charming
+situation, with picturesque elm trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> overhanging the old Tudor
+building. Radley House is now a training-school for Oxford, and it has a
+swimming-school attached, in which have been prepared several of the
+most famous Oxford oarsmen, swimming being here regarded as a necessary
+preliminary to boating. Near by is Bagley Wood, the delicious resort of
+the Oxonians which Dr. Arnold loved so well. The village of Sunningwell,
+not far from Radley, also has a church, and before its altar is the
+grave of Dean Fell, once its rector, who died of grief on hearing of the
+execution of Charles I. From the tower of this church Friar Bacon, the
+hero of the story of the brazen head, is said to have made astronomical
+observations: this renowned friar, Roger Bacon, has come down to us as
+the most learned man that Oxford ever produced. Bacon's Study was near
+the Folly Bridge, across the Thames on the road to Oxford, and it
+survived until 1779, when it was taken down. Among the many legends told
+of Bacon is one that he used such skill and magic in building the tower
+containing this study that it would have fallen on the head of any one
+more learned than himself who might pass under it. Hence, freshmen on
+their arrival at Oxford are carefully warned not to walk too near the
+Friar's Tower. Bacon overcame the greatest obstacles in the pursuit of
+knowledge; he spent all his own money and all that he could borrow in
+getting books and instruments, and then, renouncing the world, he became
+a mendicant monk of the order of St. Francis. His <i>Opus Majus</i>&mdash;to
+publish which he and his friends pawned their goods&mdash;was an epitome of
+all the knowledge of his time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;">
+<a name="p168" id="p168"></a>
+<img src="images/p168.jpg" width="377" height="500" alt="RADLEY CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RADLEY CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Other famous men came also from Abingdon. Edmund Rich, who did so much
+to raise the character of Oxford in its earlier days, was born there
+about the year 1200; his parents were very poor, and his father sought
+refuge in Eynsham Abbey. We are told that his mother was too poor to
+furnish young Rich "with any other outfit than his horsehair shirt,
+which she made him prom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>ise to wear every Wednesday, and which probably
+had been the cause of his father's retirement from their humble abode."
+Rich went from Eynsham to Oxford, and soon became its most conspicuous
+scholar; then he steadily advanced until he died the Archbishop of
+Canterbury. Chief-Justice Holt, who reformed the legal procedure of
+England, was also a native of Abingdon; he admitted prisoners to some
+rights, protected defendants in suits, and had the irons stricken off
+the accused when brought into court, for in those days of the cruel rule
+of Judge Jeffreys the defendant was always considered guilty until
+adjudged innocent. Holt originated the aphorism that "slaves cannot
+breathe in England:" this was in the famous Somerset case, where a slave
+was sold and the vendor sued for his money, laying the issues at
+Mary-le-Bow in London, and describing the negro as "there sold and
+delivered." The chief-justice said that the action was not maintainable,
+as the status of slavery did not exist in England. If, however, the
+claim had been laid in Virginia, he said he would have been obliged to
+allow it; so that the decision was practically on technical grounds.
+Lord Campbell sums up Holt's merits as a judge by saying that he was not
+a statesman like Clarendon, or a philosopher like Bacon, or an orator
+like Mansfield, yet his name is held in equal veneration with theirs,
+and some think him the most venerated judge that ever was chief-justice.
+There is a really good story told of him by Lord Campbell. In his
+younger days Holt was travelling in Oxfordshire, and stopped at an inn
+where the landlady's daughter had an illness inducing fits. She appealed
+to him, and he promised to work a cure: which he did by writing some
+Greek words on a piece of parchment and telling her to let her daughter
+wear the charm around her neck. Partly from the fact that the malady had
+spent itself, and possibly also from the effect of her imagination, the
+girl entirely recovered. Years rolled on and he became the lord
+chief-justice, when one day a withered old woman was brought before the
+assizes for being a witch, and it was proven that she pretended to cure
+all manner of cattle diseases, and with a charm that she kept carefully
+wrapped in a bundle of rags. The woman told how the charm many years
+before had cured her daughter, and when it was unfolded and handed to
+the judge he remembered the circumstance, recognized his talisman, and
+ordered her release.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CAVERSHAM AND READING ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;">
+<a name="p170" id="p170"></a>
+<img src="images/p170.jpg" width="408" height="600" alt="THE THAMES AT CLIFTON-HAMPDEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE THAMES AT CLIFTON-HAMPDEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we continue the journey down the Thames the shores on either hand
+seem cultivated like gardens, with trim hedgerows dividing them, pretty
+villages, cottages gay with flowers and evergreens, spires rising among
+the trees; and the bewitching scene reminds us of Ralph Waldo Emerson's
+tribute to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> English landscape, that "it seems to be finished with
+the pencil instead of the plough." The surface of the river is broken by
+numerous little "aits" or islands. We pass the little old house and the
+venerable church embosomed in the rural beauties of Clifton-Hampden. We
+pass Wallingford and Goring, and come to Pangbourne and Whitchurch,
+where the little river Pang flows in between green hills. Each village
+has the virtue that Dr. Johnson extolled when he said that "the finest
+landscape in the world is improved by a good inn in the foreground."
+Then we come to Mapledurham and Purley, where Warren Hastings lived, and
+finally halt at Caversham, known as the port of Reading. Here the Thames
+widens, and here in the olden time was the little chapel with a statue
+of the Virgin known as the "Lady of Caversham," which was reputed to
+have wrought many miracles and was the shrine for troops of pilgrims. In
+Cromwell's day the chapel was pulled down, and the statue, which was
+plated over with silver, was boxed up and sent to the Lord Protector in
+London. They also had here many famous relics, among them the
+spear-head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> that pierced the Saviour's side, which had been brought
+there by a "one-winged angel." The officer who destroyed the chapel, in
+writing a report of the destruction to Cromwell, expressed his regret at
+having missed among the relics "a piece of the holy halter Judas was
+hanged withal." Lord Cadogan subsequently built Caversham House for his
+residence. Reading, which is the county-town of Berkshire, is not far
+away from Caversham, and is now a thriving manufacturing city, its most
+interesting relic being the hall of the ancient Reading Abbey, built
+seven hundred years ago. It was one of the wealthiest in the kingdom,
+and several parliaments sat in the hall. The ruins, still carefully
+preserved, show its extent and fine Norman architecture.</p>
+
+<p>The Thames flows on past Sonning, where the Kennet joins it, a stream
+"for silver eels renowned," as Pope tells us. Then the Lodden comes in
+from the south, and we enter the fine expanse of Henley Reach, famous
+for boat-racing. It is a beautiful sheet of water, though the
+university race is now rowed farther down the river and nearer London,
+at Putney. Our boat now drifts with the stream through one of the most
+beautiful portions of the famous river, past Medmenham Abbey and
+Cliefden to Maidenhead. Here for about ten miles is a succession of
+beauties of scenery over wood and cliff and water that for tranquil
+loveliness cannot be surpassed anywhere. Who has not heard of the
+charming rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden, with the Duke of
+Westminster's mansion standing on their pinnacle?</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE VICAR OF BRAY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p171" id="p171"></a>
+<img src="images/p171.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="BRAY CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRAY CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We come to Maidenhead and Taplow, with Brunel's masterpiece of
+bridge-building connecting them, its elliptical brick arches being the
+broadest of their kind in the kingdom. Below this, as beauties decrease,
+we are compensated by scenes of greater historical interest. Near
+Maidenhead is Bisham Abbey, the most interesting house in Berkshire. It
+was originally a convent, and here lived Sir Thomas Russel, who at one
+time was the custodian of the princess Elizabeth. He treated her so well
+that she warmly welcomed him at court after becoming queen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bisham is a favorite scene for artists to sketch. Bray Church, where
+officiated the famous "Vicar of Bray," Symond Symonds, is below
+Maidenhead. This lively and politic vicar lived in the troubled times of
+King Henry VIII., Edward VI., Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth. Having
+seen martyrs burnt at Windsor, but two miles off, he found the fires too
+hot for his tender temper, and therefore changed his religion whenever
+events changed his sovereign. When taxed with being a religious
+changeling, his shrewd answer was, "Not so, for I always keep my
+principle, which is this&mdash;to live and to die the Vicar of Bray." The old
+church, nestling among the trees, is attractive, and we are told that an
+ancient copy of <i>Fox's Book of Martyrs</i>, which was chained to the
+reading-desk in Queen Elizabeth's time, is still preserved here for the
+edification of the faithful.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ETON COLLEGE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p173" id="p173"></a>
+<img src="images/p173.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="1. ETON COLLEGE FROM THE PLAYING FIELDS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">1. ETON COLLEGE FROM THE PLAYING FIELDS.
+<br />2. THE CRICKET-GROUND.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Soon the famous Eton College comes into view on the northern bank of the
+river&mdash;an institution dear to the memory of many English schoolboys. The
+village consists of a long, narrow street which is extended across an
+iron bridge to Windsor, on the southern bank of the Thames. Henry VI.
+founded the "College of the Blessed Mary of Eton beside Windsor" as
+early as 1440. The older parts of the buildings are of red brick, with
+stone dressings and quaint, highly ornamental chimneys, and they are
+clustered around two quadrangles. Here are the Lower and Upper Schools
+and the Long Chamber. About thirty-five years ago fine new buildings
+were erected in similar style to the old buildings, which provide a
+beautiful chapel, schools, and library (though books are said to be
+scarce there), and extensive dormitories. Adjoining them to the
+north-east are the Playing Fields on the broad green meadows along the
+river's edge, with noble elms shading them. In the Upper School of the
+ancient structure high wooden panelling covers the lower part of the
+walls, deeply scarred with the names of generations of Eton boys crowded
+closely together. In earlier times all used to cut their names in the
+wood, but now this sculpturing is only permitted to those who attain a
+certain position and leave without dishonor. Thus the panelling has
+become a great memorial tablet, and above it, upon brackets, are busts
+of some of the more eminent Etonians, including the Duke of Wellington,
+Pitt, Fox, Hallam, Fielding, and Gray. In the library are kept those
+instruments of chastisement which are always considered a part of
+schoolboy training, though a cupboard hides them from view&mdash;all but the
+block whereon the victim kneels preliminary to punishment. More than
+once have the uproarious boys made successful raids and destroyed this
+block or carried it off as a trophy. But vigorous switching was more a
+habit at Eton in former days than it is now. Of Head-master Keate,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> who
+was a famous flogger a half century ago, and would frequently practise
+on a score of boys at one <i>s&eacute;ance</i>, the scholars made a calculation to
+prove that he spent twice as much time in chastisement as in church, and
+it is recorded that he once flogged an entire division of eighty boys
+without an intermission. On another occasion he flogged, by mistake, a
+party who had been sent him for confirmation. Tall stories are also told
+of Eton flogging and "rug-riding"&mdash;the latter being a process whereby a
+heavy boy was dragged on a rug over the floors to polish them. Down to
+1840 the Eton dinners consisted entirely of mutton, with cold mutton
+served up for supper, but this regulation diet is now varied with an
+occasional service of beef and other courses. Games are no
+inconsiderable part of the English schoolboy's education, and the Duke
+of Wellington said that in the "Playing Fields" of Eton the battle of
+Waterloo was won. These fields, "where all unconscious of their doom the
+little victims play," contain one of the finest cricket-grounds in
+England. The boys divide themselves into "dry bobs" and "wet bobs," the
+former devoted to cricket and the latter to boating. The procession of
+the boats is the great feature of June 4th, the "Speech Day." Of late
+years the Eton volunteer corps has attained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> great proficiency, being a
+battalion of over three hundred of the larger boys. This famous college
+is one of the preparatory schools for the universities. It is a world in
+miniature, where the boy finds his own level, and is taught lessons of
+endurance, patience, self-control, and independence which stand him in
+good service throughout after-life.</p>
+
+
+<h3>WINDSOR CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p174-1" id="p174-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p174.jpg" width="650" height="482" alt="WINDSOR, FROM THE BROCAS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WINDSOR, FROM THE BROCAS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Across the Thames, on the southern bank, the antique and noble towers of
+Windsor Castle now rise high above the horizon. This is the sovereign's
+rural court, and is probably the best known by the world of all the
+English castles. The name is given various derivations: some ascribe it
+to the river's winding course; others to "Wind us over," in allusion to
+a rope-ferry there in ancient times; others to "Wind is sore," as the
+castle stands high and open to the weather. From the Saxon days Windsor
+has been a fortress, but the present castle owes its beginning to Edward
+III., who was born at Windsor and built its earliest parts, commencing
+with the great Round Tower in 1315. The ransoms of two captive kings,
+John of France and David of Scotland, paid for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> two higher wards. It
+was at Windsor that King Edward instituted the Order of the Garter,
+which is the highest British order of knighthood. Being impressed with
+the charms of Alice, Countess of Salisbury, but she resisting his
+advances, out of the gallantries of their coquetry came the circumstance
+of the king's picking up her garter dropped at a ball and presenting it
+to her. Some of the nobles smiled at this, which the king noticing,
+said, "Honi soit qui mal y pense" ("Evil be to him who evil thinks"),
+adding that shortly they would see that garter advanced to such high
+renown as to be happy to wear it. Froissart, in giving the legend
+telling of this institution of the Garter, says that it arose out of the
+chivalrous self-denial that leads virtue to subdue passion. Henry VI.
+was born at Windsor; Edward IV. added St. George's Chapel to the castle;
+Henry VII. built the Tomb House, and Henry VIII. the gateway to the
+Lower Ward; Queen Elizabeth added the gallery of the north terrace; and
+in Charles II.'s reign the fortress, which it had been until that time,
+was converted into a sort of French palace. Thus it remained until
+George IV., in 1824, thoroughly restored it at a cost of $7,500,000. The
+great gateways are known as Henry VIII.'s, St. George's, and King George
+IV.'s, while within is the Norman or Queen Elizabeth's Gate. The Round
+Tower or Keep was built for the assemblage of a fraternity of knights
+which King Edward intended to model after King Arthur's "Knights of the
+Round Table," but the project was abandoned after the institution of the
+Order of the Garter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;">
+<a name="p175" id="p175"></a>
+<img src="images/p175.jpg" width="420" height="600" alt="ROUND TOWER, WEST END." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROUND TOWER, WEST END.<br />
+
+(By permission of Messrs. Harper &amp; Brothers.)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Round Tower stands upon an artificial mound, and what was formerly
+its surrounding ditch is now a sunken garden. From its commanding
+battlements twelve counties can be seen, and the Prince of Wales is
+constable of this tower, as indeed of the whole castle. This fine old
+keep was the castle-prison from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> the time of Edward III. to that of
+Charles II. The poet-king, James I. of Scotland, captured when ten years
+old by Henry IV., was the first prisoner of note. Here he fell in love
+with Jane Beaufort, daughter of the Duke of Somerset, and he tells in a
+quaint poem the romance which ended in her becoming his queen. Henry
+Howard, Earl of Surrey, brought to the block by Henry VIII., was also
+confined there, and he too lamented his captivity in poetry. From the
+top of the keep the dome of St. Paul's in London can be seen. The castle
+was mercilessly plundered in the Civil Wars, till Cromwell interfered
+for its protection. In its present condition the castle has three grand
+divisions in the palatial parts&mdash;the state apartments, looking north;
+the queen's private apartments, looking east; and the visitors'
+apartments, looking south. The south and east sides of the quadrangle
+contain over three hundred and seventy rooms. Southward of the castle is
+the Windsor Great Park, to which the "Long Walk," said to be the finest
+avenue of the kind in Europe, runs in a straight line for three miles
+from the principal entrance of the castle to the top of a commanding
+eminence in the park called Snow Hill. Double rows of stately elms
+border the "Long Walk" on either hand, and it terminates at the fine
+bronze equestrian statue of George III., standing on the highest part of
+Snow Hill.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p176" id="p176"></a>
+<img src="images/p176.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="QUEEN&#39;S ROOMS IN SOUTH-EAST TOWER, WINDSOR CASTLE.
+
+(By permission of Messrs. Harper &amp; Brothers.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">QUEEN&#39;S ROOMS IN SOUTH-EAST TOWER, WINDSOR CASTLE.
+
+<br />(By permission of Messrs. Harper &amp; Brothers.)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>St. George's Chapel, a beautiful structure of the Perpendicular Gothic,
+was begun four hundred years ago, and contains the tomb of Edward IV.,
+who built<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> it. In 1789, more than three hundred years after his
+interment, the leaden coffin of the king was found in laying a new
+pavement. The skeleton is said to have been seven feet long, and Horace
+Walpole got a lock of the king's hair. Here also lie Henry VI., Henry
+VIII., and Charles I. The latter's coffin was opened in 1813, and the
+king's remains were found in fair preservation. The close companionship
+of Henry VIII. and Charles in death is thus described by Byron:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By headless Charles see heartless Henry lies."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The tradition of "Herne the Hunter," which Shakespeare gives in the
+<i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>, is said to be founded on the fact that Herne,
+a keeper of Windsor Forest, having committed some offence, hanged
+himself upon an oak tree. His ghost afterwards was to be seen, with
+horns on its head, walking round about this oak in the neighborhood of
+the castle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;">
+<a name="p177" id="p177"></a>
+<img src="images/p177.jpg" width="298" height="500" alt="INTERIOR OF ST. GEORGE&#39;S CHAPEL.
+
+(By permission of Messrs. Harper &amp; Brothers.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF ST. GEORGE&#39;S CHAPEL.<br />
+
+(By permission of Messrs. Harper &amp; Brothers.)</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>SOME RIVER SCENES.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p178" id="p178"></a>
+<img src="images/p178.jpg" width="500" height="469" alt="MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Just below Windsor the Thames passes between Runnimede, the "Meadow of
+Council," where the barons encamped, and Magna Charta Island, where King
+John signed the great charter of English liberty. The river sweeps in a
+tranquil bend around the wooded isle, where a pretty little cottage has
+been built which is said to contain the very stone whereon the charter
+was signed. The river Coln falls into the Thames, and "London Stone"
+marks the entrance to Middlesex and the domain of the metropolis. We
+pass Staines and Chertsey, where the poet Cowley lived, and then on the
+right hand the river Wey comes in at Weymouth. Many villages are passed,
+and at a bend in the Thames we come to the place where C&aelig;sar with his
+legions forded the river at Cowey Stakes, defeated Cassivelaunus, and
+conquered Britain. In his <i>Com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>mentaries</i> Julius C&aelig;sar writes that he
+led his army to the Thames, which could be crossed on foot at one place
+only, and there with difficulty. On arriving, he perceived great forces
+of the enemy drawn up on the opposite bank, which was fortified by sharp
+stakes set along the margin, a similar stockade being fixed in the bed
+of the river and covered by the stream. These facts being ascertained
+from prisoners and deserters, C&aelig;sar sent the cavalry in front and
+ordered the legions to follow immediately. The soldiers advanced with
+such impetuosity, although up to their necks in the water, that the
+Britons could not withstand the onset and fled. A couple of miles below,
+at Hampton, Garrick lived in a mansion fronted by a rotunda with a
+Grecian portico. We pass Hampton Court and Bushey Park, which revive
+memories of Wolsey, Cromwell, and William III., and then on the opposite
+bank see the two charming Dittons&mdash;"Thames" and "Long" Ditton&mdash;of which
+Theodore Hook has written:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditton.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers some abler bard has writ on,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Despairing to transcend <i>his</i> powers, I'll <i>ditto</i> say for Ditton."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Then we pass Kingston, where several Saxon kings were crowned, and the
+coronation-stone, marked with their names, it is said, still remains in
+the market-place. Teddington Lock is the last upon the Thames, and a
+mile below is Eel-Pie Island, lying off Twickenham, renowned for the
+romance that surrounds its ancient ferry. Near here lived the eccentric
+Horace Walpole, at Strawberry Hill, while in Twickenham Church is the
+monument to the poet Pope, which states in its inscription that he would
+not be buried in Westminster Abbey.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> Pope's villa no longer exists, and
+only a relic of his famous grotto remains. The widening Thames, properly
+named the Broadwater, now sweeps on to Richmond, and if that far-famed
+hill is climbed, it discloses one of the finest river-views in the
+world.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LONDON.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p180" id="p180"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 218px;">
+<img src="images/p180.jpg" width="218" height="650" alt="THE MONUMENT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MONUMENT.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Here ends the romantic portion of the Thames. The beauty of Nature is no
+longer present, being overtopped by the stir and roar of the great
+Babel, for the metropolis has reached out and swallowed up the suburban
+villages, although some of the picturesque scenes remain. Many bridges
+span the river, which on either hand gradually transforms its
+garden-bordered banks into the city buildings, and the Thames itself
+bears on its bosom the valuable commerce that has chiefly made the great
+capital. When King James I. threatened recalcitrant London with the
+removal of his court to Oxford, the lord mayor sturdily yet
+sarcastically replied, "May it please Your Majesty, of your grace, not
+to take away the Thames too?" This river, so beautiful in its upper
+loveliness, stands alone in the far-reaching influence of the commerce
+that its lower waters bear. It has borne us from the Cotswolds to
+London; while to properly describe the great city would take volumes in
+itself. Without attempting such a task, we will only give a brief
+summary of some of the more striking objects of interest that the great
+British metropolis presents.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>The origin of the vast city whose population now approximates four
+millions is obscure. It was a British settlement before the Romans came
+to England, and its name of Llyn Dyn, the "City of the Lake," was
+transformed by the conquerors into Londinium. When C&aelig;sar crossed the
+Thames he thought the settlement of too little importance for mention,
+and it does not seem to have been occupied as a Roman station until a
+century afterwards, and was not walled round until <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 306. The old
+wall was about three miles in circumference, beginning near the present
+site of the Tower, and some slight traces of it remain. The "London
+Stone" on Cannon Street was the central stone or <i>milliarium</i> from which
+distances were measured and the great Roman highways started. A worn
+fragment of this stone, protected by iron bars, now stands against the
+wall of St. Swithin's Church. When Jack Cade entered London, Shakespeare
+tells us, he struck his sword on this stone and exclaimed, "Now is
+Mortimer lord of this city." Wren caused it to be encased, for
+protection, with a new stone hollowed for the purpose; it now stands
+very near its original position. London in the sixth century became the
+capital of the Saxon kingdom of Essex, and in the ninth century the
+Danes destroyed it. King Alfred a few years afterwards rebuilt London,
+but it stood barely seven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> years when it was burned. Finally, it was
+again rebuilt, and again captured by the Danes, Canute setting himself
+up as king there. Some relics of these Danes remain. St. Olaf was their
+saint, and Tooley Street is but a corruption of his name. They had a
+church and burial-place where now St. Clement-Danes stands awry on the
+Strand&mdash;a church that is of interest not only on its own account, but
+for the venerable antiquity it represents. The Saxons drove out the
+Danes, and the Normans in turn conquered the Saxons, the Tower of London
+coming down to us as a relic of William the Conqueror, who granted the
+city the charter which is still extant. Henry I. gave it a new charter,
+which is said to have been the model for <i>Magna Charta</i>. In the twelfth
+century London attained the dignity of having a lord mayor. It sided
+with the House of York in the Wars of the Roses, and in Elizabeth's
+reign had about one hundred and fifty thousand population, being then
+about two miles south of Westminster, with fields between, and having
+the Tower standing apart from the city farther down the Thames. The
+plague devastated it in 1665, carrying off sixty thousand persons, and
+next year the Great Fire occurred, which destroyed five-sixths of the
+city within the walls, and burned during four days. This fire began at
+Pudding Lane, Monument Yard, and ended at Pie Corner, Giltspur Street.
+To commemorate the calamity the Monument was erected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> on Fish Street
+Hill, on the site of St. Margaret's Church, which was destroyed. It is a
+fluted Doric column of Portland stone, erected by Wren at a cost of
+$70,000, and is two hundred and two feet high. The inscriptions on the
+pedestal record the destruction and restoration of the city; and down to
+the year 1831 there was also an inscription untruthfully attributing the
+fire to "the treachery and malice of the popish faction;" this has been
+effaced, and to it Pope's couplet alluded:</p>
+
+<p><br /><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Where London's column, pointing to the skies,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Like a tall bully lifts its head and lies."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>A vase of flames forty two feet high, made of gilt bronze, crowns the
+apex, up to which leads a winding staircase of three hundred and
+forty-five steps. The structure has often been compared to a lighted
+candle, and the balcony at the top, having been selected as a favorite
+place for suicides to jump from, is now encaged with iron-work to
+prevent this.</p>
+
+<p>London was rebuilt in four years after the Great Fire, and the first
+stone of the new St. Paul's was laid in 1675, when the city had, with
+the outlying parishes, a half million population. Its growth was slow
+until after the American Revolution, and it began the present century
+with about eight hundred thousand people. The past seventy years have
+witnessed giant strides, and it has made astonishing progress in the
+elegance of its parks and new streets and the growth of adornments and
+improvements of all kinds. London has become, in fact, a world within
+itself.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p182" id="p182"></a>
+<img src="images/p182.jpg" width="600" height="564" alt="ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among a multitude of famous objects in London, three stand out boldly
+prominent&mdash;St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower. St.
+Paul's, the cathedral church of the bishops of London, is the finest
+building in the Italian style in Great Britain; but, unfortunately, in
+consequence of the nearness of the surrounding houses, no complete
+general view is attainable. The first church was built there by King
+Ethelbert in 610; it was destroyed by fire in the eleventh century, and
+then old St. Paul's was built, suffering repeatedly from fire and
+lightning, and being finally destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. It was
+a large church, with a spire rising five hundred and twenty feet. The
+money-lenders and small dealers plied their vocations in its middle
+aisle, known as Paul's Walk, while tradespeople took possession of the
+vaults and cloisters, a baker made a hole in a buttress for his
+bakeoven, and several buildings were planted against the outer walls,
+one being used as a theatre. The ruins were not disturbed for eight
+years after the fire, when Wren began<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> rebuilding, the cathedral being
+finished in thirty-five years. The architect, bishop, and master-mason
+who laid the corner-stone were all living at the completion&mdash;a singular
+circumstance. Wren got $1000 a year salary, and for this, said the
+Duchess of Marlborough, he was content to be dragged up to the top in a
+basket three or four times a week. The building cost $3,740,000, chiefly
+raised by subscription. It is the fifth of the churches of Christendom
+in size, being excelled by St. Peter's and the cathedrals at Florence,
+Amiens, and Milan. In ground plan it is a Latin cross five hundred feet
+long, with a transept of two hundred and fifty feet in length; the nave
+and choir are one hundred and twenty-five feet wide and the sides one
+hundred feet high. The majestic dome, which is the glory of the
+cathedral, rises three hundred and sixty-five feet, and the surmounting
+lantern carries a gilt copper ball and cross. The grand front towards
+the west, facing Ludgate Hill, is approached by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> double flight of
+steps from an area which contains a statue of Queen Anne. The portico is
+in two divisions, with Corinthian columns supporting the pediment, which
+bears a <i>bas-relief</i> of the conversion of St. Paul, and has a statue of
+St. Paul at the apex, with statues of St. Peter at the sides.
+Bell-towers rise from each side of the portico to a height of two
+hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by domes. The large bell, "Great
+Paul," which has just been placed in the tower, is the heaviest in
+England, weighing nearly seventeen tons. Within the cathedral the cupola
+has a diameter of one hundred and eight feet, and rises two hundred and
+twenty-eight feet above the pavement; around it runs the famous
+Whispering Gallery. Beneath the centre of the pavement lie the remains
+of Lord Nelson in the crypt, for St. Paul's has been made the mausoleum
+of British heroes on sea and land. Here, among others, are monuments to
+Napier, Ponsonby, Cornwallis, Nelson, Howe, Collingwood, Pakenham, Sir
+John Moore, Abercrombie, Rodney, St. Vincent, and also a noble porphyry
+mausoleum for the Duke of Wellington. Some of the heroes of peace also
+have monuments in St. Paul's, among them Dr. Johnson, Howard the
+philanthropist, Sir Astley Cooper the surgeon, Bishop Middleton, Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Rennie the engineer, and also Wren. The memory
+of the great architect is marked by a marble slab, with the inscription,
+"Reader, do you ask his monument? Look around."</p>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p183-1" id="p183-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p183-1/183-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p183-1.jpg" width="346" height="500"
+ alt="ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL, SOUTH SIDE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p183-2.jpg" width="342" height="500"
+ alt="THE CHOIR&mdash;ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL, SOUTH SIDE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE CHOIR&mdash;ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p>The outside elevation of the cathedral is of two orders of
+architecture&mdash;the lower, Corinthian, having windows with semicircular
+headings, while the upper, Composite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> has niches corresponding to the
+windows below. The entablature of each story is supported by coupled
+pilasters, while the north and south walls are surmounted by
+balustrades. Each arm of the transept is entered by an external
+semicircular portico, reached by a lofty staircase. Above the dome is
+the Golden Gallery, whence there is a grand view around London, if the
+atmosphere permits, which it seldom does. Above the lantern is the ball,
+weighing fifty-six hundred pounds; above this the cross, weighing
+thirty-three hundred and sixty pounds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;">
+<img src="images/p184.jpg" width="449" height="600" alt="WELLINGTON MONUMENT, ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL, LONDON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WELLINGTON MONUMENT, ST. PAUL&#39;S CATHEDRAL, LONDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p185" id="p185"></a>
+<img src="images/p185.jpg" width="600" height="564" alt="WESTMINSTER ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is the most renowned church in England, for in it her sovereigns
+have been crowned, and many of them buried, from the days of Harold to
+Victoria, and it contains the graves of her greatest men in
+statesmanship, literature, science, and art. The abbey is the collegiate
+church of St. Peter's, Westminster, and stands not far away from the
+Thames, near Westminster Hall and the Parliament Houses. Twelve hundred
+years ago its site was an island in the Thames known as Thorney Island,
+and a church was commenced there by Sebert, king of Essex, but was not
+completed until three centuries afterwards, in the reign of King Edgar,
+when it was named the "minster west of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> St. Paul's," or Westminster. The
+Danes destroyed it, and Edward the Confessor rebuilt it in the eleventh
+century. Portions of this church remain, but the present abbey was begun
+by Henry III. nearly seven hundred years ago, and it was not completed
+until Edward III.'s time. Henry VII. removed the Lady Chapel, and built
+the rich chapel at the east end which is named after him. Wren
+ultimately made radical changes in it, and in 1714, after many changes,
+the abbey finally assumed its present form and appearance. It has had a
+great history, the coronations alone that it has witnessed being marked
+events. They usually were followed by banquets in Westminster Hall, but
+over $1,300,000 having been wasted on the display and banquet for George
+IV., they were discontinued afterwards. At Queen Victoria's coronation
+the crown was imposed in front of the altar before St. Edward's Chapel,
+the entire nave, choir, and transepts being filled by spectators, and
+the queen afterwards sitting upon a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> chair which, with the raised
+platform bearing it, was covered with a cloth of gold. Here she received
+the homage of her officers and the nobility. The ancient
+coronation-chair, which is probably the greatest curiosity in the abbey,
+is a most unpretentious and uncomfortable-looking old high-backed chair
+with a hard wooden seat. Every sovereign of England has been crowned in
+it since Edward I. There is a similar chair alongside it, the duplicate
+having been made for the coronation of William and Mary, when two chairs
+were necessary, as both king and queen were crowned and vested with
+equal authority. Underneath the seat of the coronation-chair is fastened
+the celebrated Stone of Scone, a dark-looking, old, rough, and
+worn-edged rock about two feet square and six inches thick. All sorts of
+legends are told of it, and it is said to have been a piece of Jacob's
+Pillar. Edward I. brought it from Scotland, where many generations had
+done it reverence, and the old chair was made to contain it in 1297.
+These priceless accessories of the coronation ceremony, which will some
+day do service for the Prince of Wales, are kept alongside the tomb of
+Edward the Confessor, which for centuries has been the shrine of
+pilgrims, and they are guarded by the graves of scores of England's
+kings and queens and princes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;">
+<a name="p186" id="p186"></a>
+<img src="images/p186.jpg" width="382" height="550" alt="CLOISTERS OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLOISTERS OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;">
+<a name="p187" id="p187"></a>
+<img src="images/p187.jpg" width="435" height="600" alt="WESTMINSTER ABBEY, INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WESTMINSTER ABBEY, INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The abbey's ground-plan has the form of a Latin cross, which is apsidal,
+having radiating chapels. Henry VII.'s Chapel prolongs the building
+eastward from the transept almost as much as the nave extends westward.
+Cloisters adjoin the nave, and the western towers, built by Wren, rise
+two hundred and twenty-five feet, with a grand window beneath them. The
+church is five hundred and thirty feet long. The nave is one hundred and
+sixty-six feet long and one hundred and two feet high; the choir, one
+hundred and fifty-five long; the transept, two hundred and three feet
+long, and on the south arm one hundred and sixty-five feet high. A great
+rose-window, thirty feet in diameter, is in the north end of the
+transept, with a fine portico, beneath which is the beautiful gateway of
+the abbey. In the interior the height of the roof is remarkable, and
+also the vast number of monuments, there being hundreds of them.
+Magnificent woodwork<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> in carving and tracery adorns the choir, and its
+mosaic pavement comes down to us from the thirteenth century, the stones
+and workmen to construct it having been brought from Rome. The fine
+stained-glass windows are chiefly modern. But the grand contemplation in
+Westminster Abbey is the graves of the famous dead that have been
+gathering there for nearly eight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> centuries. No temple in the world can
+present anything like it. Wordsworth has written:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 7.5em;">&mdash;&mdash;"Be mine in hours of fear</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or grovelling thought to find a refuge here,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or through the aisles of Westminster to roam,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where bubbles burst, and folly's dancing foam</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Melts if it cross the threshold&mdash;where the wreath</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of awestruck wisdom droops."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p188.jpg" width="650" height="621" alt="KING HENRY VII.&#39;S CHAPEL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KING HENRY VII.&#39;S CHAPEL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of the nine chapels surrounding the east end of the abbey, the most
+interesting are those of Edward the Confessor, beyond the altar, and of
+Henry VII., at the extreme eastern end. The shrine of King Edward above
+referred to occupies the centre of his chapel, and was formerly richly
+inlaid with mosaics and precious stones, which, however, have been
+carried off. Henry VII.'s Chapel is a fine specimen of the architecture
+of his time, and the monuments<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> of Queens Elizabeth and Mary of Scotland
+are in the north and south aisles. In the south transept is the Poets'
+Corner, with monuments to all the great poets, and here, as well as in
+nave and choir and the north transept, are monuments of hundreds of
+illustrious Englishmen. In making these burials there is a sort of
+method observed. Chaucer's interment in the Poets' Corner in 1400 led
+the south transept to be devoted to literary men. The north transept is
+devoted to statesmen, the first distinguished burial there being the
+elder Pitt in 1778. The organ is on the north side of the nave, and here
+the eminent musicians repose. In the side chapels the chief nobles are
+buried, and in the chancel and its adjoining chapels the sovereigns.
+Isaac Newton in 1727 was the first scientist buried in the nave, and
+that part has since been devoted to scientific men and philanthropists.
+Probably the finest tomb in the abbey is that of the elder Pitt, which
+bears the inscription, "Erected by the King and Parliament as a
+testimony to the virtues and ability of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham,
+during whose administration, in the reigns of George II. and George
+III., Divine Providence exalted Great Britain to a height of prosperity
+and glory unknown to any former age." One of the finest of the
+stained-glass windows in the nave is the double memorial window in
+memory of the poets Herbert and Cowper, erected by an American, George
+W. Childs. George III. and the British sovereigns since his reign have
+their tombs at Windsor, preferring that noble castle for their last
+resting-place.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the east side of the abbey is St. Margaret's, the special church of
+the House of Commons. Its east window contains the celebrated
+stained-glass representation of the Crucifixion, painted in Holland,
+which General Monk buried to keep the Puritans from destroying. Sir
+Walter Raleigh is entombed here, and an American subscription has placed
+a stained-glass window in the church to his memory, inscribed with these
+lines by James Russell Lowell:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The New World's sons, from England's breasts we drew</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Such milk as bids remember whence we came.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Proud of her past, wherefrom our present grew,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">This window we inscribe with Raleigh's name."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE TOWER OF LONDON.</h3>
+
+<p>On the northern bank of the Thames, standing in a somewhat elevated
+position a short distance east of the ancient city-walls, is the
+collection of buildings known as the Tower. The enclosure covers about
+twelve acres, encircled by a moat now drained, and a battlemented wall
+from which towers rise at intervals. Within is another line of walls
+with towers, called the Inner Ballium, having various buildings
+interspersed. In the enclosed space, rising high above<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> all its
+surroundings, is the great square White Tower, which was the keep of the
+old fortress. Tradition assigns a very early date to this stronghold,
+but the written records do not go back earlier than William the
+Conqueror, who built the White Tower about 1078. It was enlarged and
+strengthened by subsequent kings, and Stephen kept his court there in
+the twelfth century. The moat was made about 1190. Edward II.'s daughter
+was born there, and was known as Joan of the Tower. Edward III.
+imprisoned Kings David of Scotland and John of France there. Richard II.
+in Wat Tyler's rebellion took refuge in the Tower with his court and
+nobles, numbering six hundred persons, and in 1399 was imprisoned there
+and deposed. Edward IV. kept a splendid court in the Tower, and Henry
+VI., after being twice a prisoner there, died in the Tower in 1471.
+There also was the Duke of Clarence drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine,
+and the two youthful princes, Edward V. and his brother, were murdered
+at the instance of Richard III. Henry VII. made the Tower often his
+residence. Henry VIII. received there in state all his wives before
+their marriages, and two of them, Anne Boleyn and Catharine Howard, were
+beheaded there. Here the Protector Somerset, and afterwards Lady Jane
+Grey, were beheaded. The princess Elizabeth was imprisoned in the Tower,
+and James I. was the last English sovereign who lived there. The palace,
+having become ruinous, was ultimately taken down. The Tower during the
+eight hundred years it has existed has contained a legion of famous
+prisoners, and within its precincts Chaucer, who held an office there in
+Richard II.'s reign, composed his poem <i>The Testament of Love</i>, and Sir
+Walter Raleigh wrote his <i>History of the World</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;">
+<a name="p191" id="p191"></a>
+<img src="images/p191.jpg" width="434" height="650" alt="" title="Tower of london Views" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>The "Yeomen of the Guard," a corps of forty-eight warders, who are
+meritorious soldiers, dressed in the uniform of Henry VIII.'s reign on
+state occasions, and at other times wearing black velvet hats and
+dark-blue tunics, have charge of the exhibition of the Tower. The
+entrance is in a small building on the western side, where years ago the
+lions were kept, though they have since been all sent to the London
+Zoological Garden. From this originated the phrase "going to see the
+lions." At the centre of the river-front is the "Traitor's Gate,"
+through which persons charged with high treason were formerly taken into
+the Tower. It is a square building erected over the moat, and now
+contains a steam pumping-engine. Opposite it is the Bloody Tower, where
+the young princes were smothered and where Raleigh was confined.
+Adjoining is the Wakefield Tower, with walls thirteen feet thick.
+Passing through the Bloody Tower gateway to the interior enclosure, a
+large number of curious guns are seen, and the Horse Armory at the base
+of the White Tower is filled with specimens of ancient armor
+artistically arranged. In this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> collection the systems of armor can be
+traced from the time of Edward I. to that of James II., and there are
+suits that were worn by several famous kings and warriors. Above, in
+Queen Elizabeth's Armory, is more armor, and also trophies of Waterloo
+and other battles, and a collection of every kind of weapon in the
+Tower. There are also specimens of instruments of torture and many other
+curiosities on exhibition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p193" id="p193"></a>
+<img src="images/p193.jpg" width="600" height="373" alt="THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER, ON TOWER GREEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER, ON TOWER GREEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The White Tower, which has walls fourteen feet thick in some parts,
+covers a space one hundred and sixteen by ninety-six feet, and is
+ninety-two feet high, with turrets at the angles. Each floor is divided
+into three rooms, with stone partitions seven feet thick. On the second
+floor is St. John's Chapel, and on the third the council-chamber of the
+early kings, with a dark, massive timber roof; in this chamber Richard
+II. resigned his crown; it is now filled with a vast collection of arms.
+The Salt Tower, which is at an angle of the enclosure, was formerly a
+prison; and in another part of the grounds is the Jewel House, where the
+crown jewels are kept; they are in a glass case, protected by an iron
+cage, and the house was built for them in 1842. Queen Victoria's state
+crown, made in 1838, after her coronation, is the chief. It consists of
+diamonds, pearls, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds set in silver and
+gold, and has a crimson velvet cap with carmine border, lined with white
+silk. It contains the famous ruby given to Edward the Black Prince by
+the King of Castile, and which is surrounded by diamonds forming a
+Maltese cross. The jewels in this crown are one large ruby, one large
+sapphire, sixteen other sapphires, eleven emeralds, four rubies, one
+thousand three hundred and sixty-three brilliant diamonds, one thousand
+two hundred and seventy-three rose diamonds, one hundred and forty-seven
+table diamonds, and two hundred and seventy-seven pearls. Among the
+other crowns is St. Edward's crown, of gold embellished with diamonds,
+used at all coronations, when it is placed upon the sovereign's head by
+the Archbishop of Canterbury. This crown was stolen from the Tower by
+Blood in 1761. There are also the Prince of Wales' crown, the queen's
+crown, the queen's diadem, St. Edward's Staff, four feet seven inches
+long, made of beaten gold and surmounted by an orb said to contain part
+of the true cross, and carried before the sovereign at coronation; the
+royal sceptre (surmounted by a cross), which the archbishop places in
+the sovereign's right hand at coronation; the rod of equity (surmounted
+by a dove), which he places in the left hand; several other sceptres;
+the pointless sword of Mercy, the swords of Justice, and the sacred
+vessels used at coronation. Here is also the famous Koh-i-noor diamond,
+the "Mountain of Light," which was taken at Lahore in India. The ancient
+Martin or Jewel Tower, where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned, is near by; the
+barracks are on the north side of the Tower, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> behind them are the
+Brick and Bowyer Towers, in the former of which Lady Jane Grey was
+imprisoned, and in the latter the Duke of Clarence was drowned; but only
+the basements of the old towers remain. The Tower Chapel, or church of
+St. Peter's, was used for the cemetery of the distinguished prisoners
+who were beheaded there, and in its little graveyard lie scores of
+headless corpses, as well as the remains of several constables of the
+Tower. In front of it was the place of execution, marked by an oval of
+dark stones. The Beauchamp Tower stands at the middle of the west side
+of the fortress, built in the thirteenth century and used as a prison;
+there are numerous inscriptions and devices on the walls made by the
+prisoners. Here Lady Jane Grey's husband carved in antique letters
+"Iane." In the Bell Tower, at the south-western angle, the princess
+Elizabeth was confined, and in the present century it was the prison of
+Sir Francis Burdett, committed for commenting in print on the
+proceedings of the House of Commons. The Tower Subway is a tunnel
+constructed recently under the Thames from Tower Hill to Tooley Street
+for passenger traffic. The Duke of Wellington was constable of the Tower
+at one time, and its barracks are sometimes occupied by as many as eight
+thousand troops. This ancient fortress always has a profound interest
+for visitors, and no part of it more than the Water-Gate, leading from
+the Thames, the noted "Traitor's Gate," through which have gone so many
+victims of despotism and tyranny&mdash;heroes who have passed</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"On through that gate, through which before</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Went Sydney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>THE LOLLARDS AND LAMBETH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p194.jpg" width="600" height="584" alt="THE LOLLARDS&#39; TOWER, LAMBETH PALACE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LOLLARDS&#39; TOWER, LAMBETH PALACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Archbishop of Canterbury, the primate of England, who crowns the
+sovereigns, has his palace at Lambeth, on the south side of the Thames,
+opposite Westminster, and its most noted portion is the Lollards' Tower.
+The Lollards, named from their low tone of singing at interments, were a
+numerous sect exerting great influence in the fourteenth century. The
+Church persecuted them, and many suffered death, and their prison was
+the Lollards' Tower, built in 1435, adjoining the archiepiscopal palace.
+This prison is reached by a narrow stairway, and at the entrance is a
+small doorway barely sufficient for one person to pass at a time. The
+palace itself was built in the days of the Tudors, and the gatehouse of
+red brick in 1499. The chapel is Early English, its oldest portion built
+in the thirteenth century. All the Archbishops of Canterbury since that
+time have been consecrated there. There is a great hall and library, and
+the history of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> this famous religious palace is most interesting. At the
+red brick gatehouse the dole is distributed by the archbishop, as from
+time immemorial, to the indigent parishioners. Thirty poor widows on
+three days of the week each get a loaf, meat, and two and a half pence,
+while soup is also given them and to other poor persons. The archbishops
+maintain this charity carefully, and their office is the head of the
+Anglican Church.</p>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p195-1" id="p195-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p195-1/195-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p195-1.jpg" width="230" height="600"
+ alt="ST. MARY-LE-BOW." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p195-2.jpg" width="293" height="600"
+ alt="ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. MARY-LE-BOW.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+<p>Bow Church, or St. Mary-le-Bow on Cheapside, is one of the best known
+churches of London. It is surmounted by one of the most admired of
+Wren's spires, which is two hundred and twenty-five feet high. There is
+a dragon upon the spire nearly nine feet long. It is the sure criterion
+of a London Cockney to have been born within sound of "Bow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> Bells." A
+church stood here in very early times, said to have been built upon
+arches, from which is derived the name of the Ecclesiastical Court of
+Arches, the supreme court of the province of Canterbury, a tribunal
+first held in Bow Church. Another of Wren's noted churches is St.
+Bride's, on Fleet Street, remarkable for its beautiful steeple,
+originally two hundred and thirty-four feet high. It has been much
+damaged by lightning. The east window of St. Bride's is a copy on
+stained glass of Rubens' painting of "The Descent from the Cross." This
+church contains several famous tombs.</p>
+
+
+<h3>WHITEHALL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p196.jpg" width="650" height="422" alt="THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We will now take a brief view of Westminster, the region of palaces, and
+first of all pause at the most ancient and famous of them, Whitehall, of
+which only the Banqueting House remains. This was originally the
+residence of the Archbishops of York, and here lived Cardinal Wolsey in
+great splendor until his downfall, when Henry VIII. took Whitehall for
+his palace and made large additions to the buildings, entering it as a
+residence with his queen, Anne Boleyn. The sovereigns of England lived
+in Whitehall for nearly two centuries, and in Charles I.'s reign it
+contained the finest picture-gallery in the kingdom. This unhappy king
+was beheaded in front of the Banqueting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> House, being led to the
+scaffold out of one of the windows. James II. left Whitehall when he
+abandoned the kingdom, and accidental fires in the closing years of the
+seventeenth century consumed the greater part of the buildings. The
+Banqueting House, which is one hundred and eleven feet long and a fine
+structure of Portland stone, is all that remains, and it is now used as
+a royal chapel, where one of the queen's chaplains preaches every
+Sunday. Rubens' paintings commemorating King James I. are still on the
+ceiling.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;">
+<img src="images/p197.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL (BANQUETING-HALL),
+WHITEHALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL (BANQUETING-HALL),
+WHITEHALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p198" id="p198"></a><span class="caption">THE HORSE GURADS FROM THE PARADE GROUND</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p198.jpg); height: 100%;" title="HORSE GUARDS FROM THE PARADE GROUND" >
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:720px; height:150px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:820px; height:50px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:1000px; height:200px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:450px; height:25px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:270px; height:80px;"> </div>
+
+<p>In the district of Whitehall is also the army headquarters and office of
+the commander-in-chief, the Duke of Cambridge&mdash;now known popularly as
+the "Horse Guards," because in front of it two mounted horsemen stand on
+duty all day in horse-boxes on either side of the entrance. The clock
+surmounting the building in its central tower is said to be the standard
+timekeeper of London for the West End. A carriage-way leads through the
+centre of the building to St. James Park, a route which only the royal
+family are permitted to use. Not far away are the other government
+offices&mdash;the Admiralty Building and also "Downing Street," where resides
+the premier and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> where the secretaries of state have their offices and
+the Cabinet meets. Here are the Treasury Building and the Foreign
+Office, and from this spot England may be said to be ruled. In this
+neighborhood also is Scotland Yard, the headquarters of the London
+Metropolitan Police, where the chief commissioner sits and where lost
+articles are restored to their owners when found in cabs or
+omnibuses&mdash;an important branch of police duty. It obtained its name from
+being the residence of the Scottish kings when they visited London.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>ST. JAMES PALACE.</h3>
+
+<p>When the palace in Whitehall was destroyed the sovereigns made their
+residence chiefly at St. James Palace, which stands on the north side of
+St. James Park. This building is more remarkable for its historical
+associations than for its architecture. It was originally a leper's
+hospital, but Henry VIII., obtaining possession of it, pulled down the
+old buildings and laid out an extensive park, using it as a semi-rural
+residence called the Manor House. Its gatehouse and turrets were built
+for him from plans by Holbein. Queen Mary died in it, and in its chapel
+Charles I. attended service on the morning of his execution, and we are
+told that he walked from the palace through the park, guarded by a
+regiment of troops, to Whitehall to be beheaded. Here lived General Monk
+when he planned the Restoration, and William III. first received the
+allegiance of the English nobles here in 1688, but it was not used
+regularly for state<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> ceremonies until Whitehall was burned. From this
+official use of St. James Palace comes the title of "The Court of St.
+James." Queen Anne, the four Georges, and William III. resided in the
+palace, and in its chapel Queen Victoria was married, but she only holds
+court drawing-rooms and levees there, using Buckingham Palace for her
+residence. Passing through the gateway into the quadrangle, the visitor
+enters the Color Court, so called from the colors of the household
+regiment on duty being placed there. The state apartments are on the
+south front. The great sight of St. James is the queen's drawing-room in
+the height of the season, when presentations are made at court. On such
+occasions the "Yeomen of the Guard," a body instituted by Henry VII.,
+line the chamber, and the "Gentlemen-at-Arms," instituted by Henry
+VIII., are also on duty, wearing a uniform of scarlet and gold and
+carrying small battle-axes covered with crimson velvet. Each body has a
+captain, who is a nobleman, these offices being highly prized and
+usually changed with the ministry.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;">
+<img src="images/p199.jpg" width="363" height="548" alt="GATEWAY OF ST. JAMES PALACE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF ST. JAMES PALACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BUCKINGHAM PALACE.</h3>
+
+<p>We have been to the queen's country-home at Windsor, and will now visit
+her town-house, Buckingham Palace, which is also in St. James Park. Here
+stood a plain brick mansion, built in 1703 by the Duke of Buckingham,
+and in which was gathered the famous library of George III., which is
+now in the British Museum. The house was described as "dull, dowdy, and
+decent," but in 1825 it was greatly enlarged and improved, and Queen
+Victoria took possession of the new palace in 1837, and has lived there
+ever since. Her increasing family necessitated the construction of a
+large addition in 1846, and a few years afterwards the Marble Arch,
+which till then formed the entrance, was moved from Buckingham Palace to
+Hyde Park, and a fine ball-room construct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>ed instead. This palace
+contains a gorgeously-decorated throne-room and a fine picture-gallery,
+the grand staircase leading up to the state-apartments being of marble.
+The gardens of Buckingham Palace cover about forty acres: in them are a
+pavilion and an attractive chapel, the latter having been formerly a
+conservatory. At the rear of the palace, concealed from view by a high
+mound, are the queen's stables or mews, so called because the royal
+stables were formerly built in a place used for keeping falcons. In
+these stables is the gaudily-decorated state coach, built in 1762 at a
+cost of $38,000. Marlborough House, the town-residence of the Prince of
+Wales, adjoins St. James Palace, but is not very attractive. It was
+originally built for the first Duke of Marlborough, who died in it, and
+is said to have been designed by Wren, having afterwards been enlarged
+when it became a royal residence.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p200.jpg" width="650" height="449" alt="BUCKINGHAM PALACE, GARDEN FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUCKINGHAM PALACE, GARDEN FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>KENSINGTON PALACE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p201" id="p201"></a>
+<img src="images/p201.jpg" width="650" height="472" alt="KENSINGTON PALACE, WEST FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KENSINGTON PALACE, WEST FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Standing on the west side of the Kensington Gardens is the plain,
+irregular red brick structure known as Kensington Palace, which was
+originally Lord Chancellor Finch's house. William III bought it from his
+grandson, and greatly enlarged it. Here died William and Mary, Queen
+Anne, and George<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> II., and here Victoria was born. Perhaps the most
+interesting recent event that Kensington Palace has witnessed was the
+notification to this princess of the death of William IV. He died on the
+night of June 19, 1837, and at two o'clock the next morning the
+Archbishop of Canterbury and the lord chamberlain set out to announce
+the event to the young sovereign. They reached Kensington Palace about
+five o'clock, early, but in broad daylight, and they knocked and rang
+and made a commotion for a considerable time before they could arouse
+the porter at the gate. Being admitted, they were kept waiting in the
+courtyard, and then, seeming to be forgotten by everybody, they turned
+into a lower room and again rang and pounded. Servants appearing, they
+desired that an attendant might be sent to inform the princess that they
+requested an audience on business of importance. Then there was more
+delay, and another ringing to learn the cause, which ultimately brought
+the attendant, who stated that the princess was in such a sweet sleep
+she could not venture to disturb her. Thoroughly vexed, they said, "We
+are come to the queen on business of state, and even her sleep must give
+way to that."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> This produced a speedy result, for, to prove that it was
+not she who kept them waiting, Victoria in a few minutes came into the
+room in a loose white nightgown and shawl, with her hair falling upon
+her shoulders and her feet in slippers, shedding tears, but perfectly
+collected. She immediately summoned her council at Kensington Palace,
+but most of the summonses were not received by those to whom they were
+sent till after the early hour fixed for the meeting. She sat at the
+head of the table, and, as a lady who was then at court writes, "she
+received first the homage of the Duke of Cumberland, who was not King of
+Hanover when he knelt to her; the Duke of Sussex rose to perform the
+same ceremony, but the queen with admirable grace stood up, and,
+preventing him from kneeling, kissed him on the forehead. The crowd was
+so great, the arrangements were so ill made, that my brothers told me
+the scene of swearing allegiance to their young sovereign was more like
+that of the bidding at an auction than anything else."</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 482px;">
+<a name="p203" id="p203"></a>
+<img src="images/p203.jpg" width="482" height="600" alt="THE VICTORIA TOWER, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE VICTORIA TOWER, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The finest of all the public buildings of the British government in
+London, the Houses of Parliament, are on the bank of the Thames in
+Westminster, and are of modern construction. The old Parliament Houses
+were burnt nearly fifty years ago, and Sir Charles Barry designed the
+present magnificent palace, which covers nearly eight acres and cost
+$20,000,000. The architecture is in the Tudor style, and the grand
+fa&ccedil;ade stretches nine hundred and forty feet along a terrace fronting on
+the Thames. It is richly decorated with statues of kings and queens and
+heraldic devices, and has two pinnacled towers at each end and two in
+the centre. At the northern end one of the finest bridges across the
+Thames&mdash;the Westminster Bridge&mdash;is built, and here rises the Clock
+Tower, forty feet square and three hundred and twenty feet high, copied
+in great measure from a similar tower at Bruges. A splendid clock and
+bells are in the tower, the largest bell, which strikes the hours,
+weighing eight tons and the clock-dials being thirty feet in diameter.
+The grandest feature of this palace, however, is the Victoria Tower, at
+the south-western angle, eighty feet square and three hundred and forty
+feet high. Here is the sovereign's entrance to the House of Peers,
+through a magnificent archway sixty-five feet high and having inside the
+porch statues of the patron saints of the three kingdoms&mdash;St. George,
+St. Andrew, and St. Patrick&mdash;and one of Queen Victoria, between the
+figures of Justice and Mercy. From the centre of the palace rises a
+spire over the dome of the Central Hall three hundred feet high. In
+constructing the palace the old Westminster Hall has been retained, so
+that it forms a grand public entrance, leading through St. Stephen's
+Porch to St. Stephen's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> Hall, which is ninety-five feet long and
+fifty-six feet high, where statues have been placed of many of the great
+statesmen and judges of England. From this a passage leads to the
+Central Hall, an octagonal chamber seventy feet across and seventy-five
+feet high, with a beautiful groined roof. Corridors adorned with
+frescoes stretch north and south from this Central Hall to the House of
+Commons and the House of Peers. The former is sixty-two feet long, and
+constructed with especial attention to acoustics, but it only has seats
+for a little over two-thirds of the membership of the House, and the
+others must manage as they can. The Speaker's chair is at the north end,
+and the ministers sit on his right hand and the opposition on the left.
+Outside the House are the lobbies, where the members go on a division.
+The interior of the House is plain, excepting the ceiling, which is
+richly decorated. The House of Peers is most gorgeously ornamented,
+having on either side six lofty stained-glass windows with portraits of
+sovereigns, these windows being lighted at night from the outside. The
+room is ninety-one feet long, and at each end has three frescoed
+archways representing religious and allegorical subjects. Niches in the
+walls contain statues of the barons who compelled King John to sign
+Magna Charta. There are heraldic devices on the ceilings and walls, and
+the throne stands at the southern end. The "Woolsack," where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> sits the
+lord chancellor, who presides over the House, is a seat near the middle
+of the room, covered with crimson cloth. When the sovereign comes to the
+palace and enters the gateway at the Victoria Tower, she is ushered into
+the Norman Porch, containing statues and frescoes representing the
+Norman sovereigns, and then enters the Robing Room, splendidly decorated
+and having frescoes representing the legends of King Arthur. When the
+ceremony of robing is completed, she proceeds to the House of Peers
+through the longest room in the palace, the Victoria Gallery, one
+hundred and ten feet long and forty-five feet wide and high. Historical
+frescoes adorn the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> walls and the ceiling is richly gilded. This gallery
+leads to the Prince's Chamber, also splendidly decorated, and having two
+doorways opening into the House of Peers, one on each side of the
+throne. In this palace for six months in every year the British
+Parliament meets.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p204" id="p204"></a>
+<img src="images/p204.jpg" width="600" height="598" alt="INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>HYDE PARK.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p205" id="p205"></a>
+<img src="images/p205.jpg" width="600" height="442" alt="THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK.</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p206" id="p206"></a>
+<a name="p207" id="p207"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p206/207">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p206.jpg" width="413" height="600"
+ alt="THE ALBERT MEMORIAL." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p207.jpg" width="469" height="600"
+ alt="ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE ALBERT MEMORIAL.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE, NEW MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY,
+SOUTH KENSINGTON.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p>When the Marble Arch was taken from Buckingham Palace, it was removed to
+Hyde Park, of which it forms one of the chief entrances at Cumberland
+Gate. This magnificent gate, which cost $400,000, leads into probably
+the best known of the London parks, the ancient manor of Hyde. It was an
+early resort of fashion, for the Puritans in their time complained of it
+as the resort of "most shameful powdered-hair men and painted women." It
+covers about three hundred and ninety acres, and has a pretty sheet of
+water called the Serpentine. The fashionable drive is on the southern
+side, and here also is the famous road for equestrians known as Rotten
+Row, which stretches nearly a mile and a half. On a fine afternoon in
+the season the display on these roads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> is grand. In Hyde Park are held
+the great military reviews and the mass-meetings of the populace, who
+occasionally display their discontent by battering down the railings. At
+Hyde Park Corner is a fine entrance-gate, with the Green Park Gate
+opposite, surmounted by the Wellington bronze equestrian statue. The
+most magnificent decoration of Hyde Park is the Albert Memorial,
+situated near the Prince's Gate on the southern side. The upper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> portion
+is a cross, supported by three successive tiers of emblematic gilt
+figures, and at the four angles are noble groups representing the four
+quarters of the globe. This was the masterpiece of Sir Gilbert Scott,
+and is considered the most splendid monument of modern times. It marks
+the site of the Crystal Palace Exhibition of 1851, in which Prince
+Albert took great interest: there are upon it one hundred and sixty-nine
+life-size portrait figures of illustrious artists, composers, and poets,
+while under the grand canopy in the centre is the seated figure of the
+prince. Opposite is the Royal Albert Hall, and behind this the
+magnificent buildings of the South Kensington Museum, which grew out of
+the Exhibition of 1851, and the site for which was bought with the
+surplus fund of that great display. This is a national museum for art
+and manufactures allied to art. Its collections are becoming enormous
+and of priceless value, and include many fine paintings, among them
+Raphael's cartoons, with galleries of sculpture and antiquities and
+museums of patent models. There are art-schools and libraries, and the
+buildings, which have been constructing for several years, are of rare
+architectural merit. The Royal Albert Hall is a vast amphitheatre of
+great magnificence devoted to exhibitions of industry, art, and music.
+It is of oval form, and its external frieze and cornice are modelled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>
+after the Elgin Marbles. Opposite it are the gardens of the
+Horticultural Society.</p>
+
+
+<h3>A VIEW IN THE POULTRY.</h3>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p208-2" id="p208-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p208-2.jpg" width="550" height="245" alt="BANK OF ENGLAND." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BANK OF ENGLAND.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p208-1" id="p208-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p208-1.jpg" width="450" height="361" alt="ROYAL EXCHANGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROYAL EXCHANGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Going down into the heart of the old city of London, and standing in the
+street called the Poultry, the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange
+are seen over on the other side, with Threadneedle Street between them,
+and Lombard Street on the right hand, the region that controls the
+monetary affairs of the world. Turning round, the Mansion House is
+behind the observer, this being the lord mayor's residence and the
+head-quarters of the city government. The Royal Exchange has been thrice
+built and twice burned&mdash;first in the great fire of 1666, and afterwards
+in 1838. The present Exchange, costing $900,000, was opened in 1844, and
+is three hundred and eight feet long, with a fine portico on the western
+front ninety-six feet wide, and supported by twelve columns, each
+forty-one feet high. Within is an open area surrounded by an arcade,
+while at the rear is Lloyds, the underwriters' offices, where the
+business of insuring ships is transacted in a hall ninety-eight feet
+long and forty feet wide. Wellington's statue stands in front of the
+Exchange, and in the middle of the central area is a statue of Queen
+Victoria. The Bank of England, otherwise known as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> "Old Lady of
+Threadneedle Street," covers a quadrangular space of about four acres,
+with a street on each side. It is but one story high, and has no windows
+on the outside, the architecture being unattractive. The interior is
+well adapted for the bank offices, which are constructed around nine
+courts. The bank has been built in bits, and gradually assumed its
+present size and appearance. It was founded in 1691 by William Paterson,
+but it did not remove to its present site until 1734. Its affairs are
+controlled by a governor, deputy governor, and twenty-four directors,
+and the bank shares of $500 par, paying about ten per cent. dividends
+per annum, sell at about $1400. It regulates the discount rate, gauging
+it so as to maintain its gold reserves, and it also keeps the coinage in
+good order by weighing every coin that passes through the bank, and
+casting out the light ones by an ingenious machine that will test
+thirty-five thousand in a day. It also prints its own notes upon paper
+containing its own water-mark, which is the chief reliance against
+forgery. The bank transacts the government business in connection with
+the British public debt of about $3,850,000,000, all in registered
+stock, and requiring two hundred and fifty thousand separate accounts to
+be kept. Its deposits aggregate at least $130,000,000, and its capital
+is $72,765,000. The bank is the great British storehouse for gold,
+keeping on deposit the reserves of the joint-stock banks and the private
+bankers of London, and it will have in its vaults at one time eighty to
+one hundred millions of dollars in gold in ingots, bullion, or coin,
+this being the basis on which the entire banking system of England is
+conducted. It keeps an accurate history of every bank-note that is
+issued, redeeming each note that comes back into the bank in the course
+of business, and keeping all the redeemed and cancelled notes. The
+earliest notes were written with a pen, and from this they have been
+improved until they have become the almost square white pieces of paper
+of to-day, printed in bold German text, that are so well known, yet are
+unlike any other bank-notes in existence. Around the large elliptical
+table in the bank parlor the directors meet every Thursday to regulate
+its affairs, and&mdash;not forgetting they are true Englishmen&mdash;eat a savory
+dinner, the windows of the parlor looking out upon a little gem of a
+garden in the very heart of London. The Mansion House, built in 1740, is
+fronted by a Corinthian portico, with six fluted col<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>umns and a pediment
+of allegorical sculpture. Within is the Egyptian Hall, where the lord
+mayor fulfils what is generally regarded as his chief duty, the giving
+of grand banquets. He can invite four hundred persons to the tables in
+this spacious hall, which is ornamented by several statues by British
+sculptors, over $40,000 having been expended for its ornamentation. The
+lord mayor also has a ball-room and other apartments, including his
+Venetian parlor and the justice room where he sits as a magistrate. From
+the open space in front of the Mansion House diverge streets running to
+all parts of London and the great bridges over the Thames.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p209" id="p209"></a>
+<img src="images/p209.jpg" width="450" height="362" alt="MANSION HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MANSION HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h3>THE INNS OF COURT.</h3>
+
+<p>The four Inns of Court in London have been described as the palladiums
+of English liberty&mdash;the Inner Temple, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and
+Gray's Inn. There are over three thousand barristers members of these
+Inns, and the best known is probably Lincoln's Inn, which is named after
+De Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who died in 1312, and had his house on its
+site, his device, the lion rampant, being adopted by the Inn. The
+ancient gatehouse, which opens from Chancery Lane, is nearly four
+hundred years old. The Inn has an old hall dating from 1506, and also a
+fine modern hall, the Newcastle House, one hundred and twenty feet long,
+built in Tudor style, with stained-glass windows and having life-size
+figures of several eminent members in canopied niches. Here is Hogarth's
+celebrated picture of "Paul before Felix." The Inn has a valuable
+library, and among its members has counted More, Hale, Selden,
+Mansfield, and Hardwicke.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;">
+<a name="p210" id="p210"></a>
+<img src="images/p210.jpg" width="404" height="600" alt="THE LAW COURTS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LAW COURTS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Across Fleet Street, and between it and the Thames, is the Temple, a
+lane dividing it into the Inner and the Middle Temple, while obstructing
+Fleet Street<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> there was the old Temple Bar, one of the ancient city
+gates, which has recently been removed. The name is derived from the
+Knights Templar, who existed here seven centuries ago; and they
+afterwards gave the site to certain law-students who wished to live in
+the suburbs away from the noise of the city. Here in seclusion, for the
+gates were locked at night, the gentlemen of these societies in a bygone
+age were famous for the masques and revels given in their halls. Kings
+and judges attended them, and many were the plays and songs and dances
+that then enlivened the dull routine of the law. The Inner Temple has
+for its device a winged horse, and the Middle Temple a lamb. Some
+satirist has written of these&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Their clients may infer from thence</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">How just is their profession:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The lamb sets forth their innocence,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The horse their expedition."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Here is the old Templar Church of St. Mary, built in 1185 and enlarged
+in 1240. Formerly, the lawyers waited for their clients in this ancient
+church. During recent years England has erected magnificent buildings
+for her law courts. The new Palace of Justice fronts about five hundred
+feet on the Strand, near the site of Temple Bar, which was taken away
+because it impeded the erection of the new courts, and they cover six
+acres, with ample gardens back from the street, the wings extending
+about five hundred feet northward around them. A fine clock-tower
+surmounts the new courts. In this part of the Strand are many ancient
+structures, above which the Palace of Justice grandly towers, and some
+of them have quaint balconies overlooking the street.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;">
+<a name="p211" id="p211"></a>
+<img src="images/p211.jpg" width="393" height="550" alt="SIR PAUL PINDAR&#39;S HOUSE IN BISHOPSGATE STREET." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SIR PAUL PINDAR&#39;S HOUSE IN BISHOPSGATE STREET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While in old London the feasting that has had so much to do with the
+municipal corporation cannot be forgotten, and on Bishopsgate Street we
+find the scene of many of the famous public dinners, savory with
+turtle-soup and whitebait&mdash;the London Tavern. Not far distant, and on
+the same street, is Sir Paul Pindar's House, a quaint structure, now
+falling into decay, that gives an excellent idea of medi&aelig;val domestic
+architecture.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>THE BRITISH MUSEUM.</h3>
+
+<p>Fronting upon Great Russell Street, to which various smaller streets
+lead northward from Oxford Street, is that vast treasure-house of
+knowledge whose renown is world-wide, the British Museum. The buildings
+and their courtyards cover seven acres, and have cost nearly
+$5,000,000 to construct. The front is three hundred and seventy feet
+long, the entrance being under a grand portico supported by rows of
+columns forty-five feet high. This vast museum originated from a
+provision in the will of Sir Hans Sloane in the last century, who had
+made a valuable collection and directed that it be sold to the
+government for $100,000. Parliament, accepting the offer, in 1753
+created the museum to take charge of this and some other collections.
+The present site, then Montagu House, was selected for the museum, but
+it was not until 1828 that the present buildings were begun, and they
+have only recently been finished. The reading-room, the latest addition,
+is the finest structure of its kind in the world, being a circular hall
+one hundred and forty feet in diameter and covered with a dome one
+hundred and six feet high. It cost $750,000, and its library is believed
+to be the largest in the world, containing seven hundred thousand
+volumes, and increasing at the rate of twenty thousand volumes annually.
+Its collection of prints is also of rare value and vast extent, and by
+far the finest in the world.</p>
+
+
+<h3>SOME LONDON SCENES.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p212" id="p212"></a>
+<img src="images/p212.jpg" width="650" height="234" alt="WATERLOO BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WATERLOO BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p213-1" id="p213-1"></a>
+<a name="p213-2" id="p213-2"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p213-1/213-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p213-1.jpg" width="348" height="550"
+ alt="SCHOMBERG HOUSE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p213-2.jpg" width="365" height="550"
+ alt="STATUE OF SIDNEY HERBERT." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">SCHOMBERG HOUSE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STATUE OF SIDNEY HERBERT.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p>Let us now take a brief glance at some well-known London sights. The two
+great heroes who are commemorated in modern London are Wellington and
+Nelson. Trafalgar Square commemorates Nelson's death and greatest
+victory, the Nelson Column standing in the centre, with Landseer's
+colossal lions<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> reposing at its base. Passing eastward along the Strand,
+beyond Charing Cross and Somerset House, we come to Wellington Street,
+which leads to Waterloo Bridge across the Thames. This admirable
+structure, the masterpiece of John Rennie, cost $5,000,000, and was
+opened on the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo in 1817. It is of
+granite, and with the approaches nearly a half mile long, crossing the
+river upon nine arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet span.
+Passing westward from Trafalgar Square, we enter Pall Mall, perhaps the
+most striking of the London streets in point of architecture. Here are
+club-houses and theatres, statues and columns, and the street swarms
+with historical associations. On the south side are the Reform and
+Carlton Clubs, the headquarters respectively of the Liberal and
+Conservative parties, and a little beyond, on the same side, the row of
+buildings of all sizes and shapes making up the War Office. Among them
+is a quaint old Queen-Anne mansion of brick, with a curious pediment and
+having many windows. This is Schomberg House, shorn of one wing, but
+still retained among so much that is grand around it. Also in Pall Mall
+is Foley's celebrated statue of Sidney Herbert, one of the most
+impressive in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> London&mdash;the head drooped sadly and reflectively,
+indicating that it is the image of a conscientious war-minister, who,
+overweighted with the responsibility of his office, was cut off
+prematurely. Although not one of the greatest men of England, Herbert's
+fame will be better preserved by his finer statue than that of many men
+who have filled a much larger space in her history. Marlborough House
+has an entrance on Pall Mall, and adjoining its gate is the curious and
+elaborately decorated building of the Beaconsfield Club. Over the
+doorway the semicircular cornice does duty for a balcony for the
+drawing-room windows above. The doorway itself is an imposing archway
+strangely cut into segments, one forming a window and the other the
+door.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;">
+<a name="p214-1" id="p214-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p214-1.jpg" width="237" height="500" alt="DOORWAY BEACONSFIELD CLUB." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DOORWAY BEACONSFIELD CLUB.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p214-2" id="p214-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p214-2.jpg" width="550" height="427" alt="CAVENDISH SQUARE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAVENDISH SQUARE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p215" id="p215"></a>
+<img src="images/p215.jpg" width="600" height="442" alt="THE &quot;BELL&quot; AT EDMONTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;BELL&quot; AT EDMONTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>London contains in the West End many squares surrounded by handsome
+residences, among them probably the best known being Belgrave, Russell,
+Bedford, Grosvenor, Hanover, and Cavendish Squares. Eaton Square is said
+to be the largest of these, Grosvenor Square the most fashionable, and
+Cavendish Square the most salubrious and best cultivated. The line of
+streets leading by Oxford Street to the Marble Arch entrance to Hyde
+Park is London's most fashionable route of city travel, and on Tottenham
+Court Road, which starts northward from Oxford Street, is the "Bell Inn"
+at Edmonton. It is not a very attractive house, but is interesting
+because it was here that Johnny Gilpin and his worthy spouse should have
+dined when that day of sad disasters came which Cowper has chronicled in
+John Gilpin's famous ride. The old house has been much changed since
+then, and is shorn of its balcony, but it has capacious gardens, and is
+the resort to this day<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> of London holiday-makers. It is commonly known
+as "Gilpin's Bell," and a painting of the ride is proudly placed outside
+the inn. Tottenham Court Road goes through Camden Town, and here at
+Euston Square is the London terminus of the greatest railway in
+England&mdash;the London and North-western Company. Large hotels adjoin the
+station, and the Underground Railway comes into it alongside the
+platform, thus giving easy access to all parts of the metropolis. This
+railway is one of the wonders of the metropolis, and it has cost about
+$3,250,000 per mile to construct. The original idea seems to have been
+to connect the various stations of the railways leading out of town, and
+to do this, and at the same time furnish means of rapid transit from the
+heart of the city to the suburbs, the railway has been constructed in
+the form of an irregular ellipse, running all around the city, yet kept
+far within the built-up portions. It is a double track, with trains
+running all around both ways, so that the passenger goes wherever he
+wishes simply by following the circuit, while branch lines extend to the
+West End beyond Paddington and Kensington. It is constructed not in a
+continuous tunnel, for there are frequent open spaces, but on a general
+level lower than that of the greater part of London, and the routes are
+pursued without regard to the street-lines on the surface above, often
+passing diagonally under blocks of houses. The construction has taxed
+engineering skill to the utmost, for huge buildings have had to be
+shored up, sewers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> diverted, and, at the stations, vast spaces burrowed
+underground to get enough room. In this way London has solved its
+rapid-transit problem, though it could be done only at enormous cost.
+The metropolis, it will be seen, has no end of attractions, and for the
+traveller's accommodation the ancient inns are rapidly giving place to
+modern hotels. Among London's famous hostelries is the "Old Tabard Inn"
+in the Borough, which will probably soon be swept away.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p216" id="p216"></a>
+<img src="images/p216.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="THE &quot;OLD TABARD INN.&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;OLD TABARD INN.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>HOLLAND HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p217" id="p217"></a>
+<img src="images/p217.jpg" width="650" height="438" alt="HOLLAND HOUSE, SOUTH SIDE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HOLLAND HOUSE, SOUTH SIDE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To describe London, as we said before, would fill a volume, but space
+forbids lingering longer, and we will pass out of the metropolis, after
+devoting brief attention to one of its historical mansions, the
+well-known Holland House. This fine old building of the time of James I.
+stands upon high ground in the western suburbs of London, and its
+history is interwoven with several generations of arts, politics, and
+literature. The house is of red brick, embellished with turrets,
+gable-ends, and mullioned windows. As its park has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> already been partly
+cut up for building-lots, the end of the celebrated mansion itself is
+believed to be not far off. Built in 1607, it descended to the first
+Earl of Holland, whence its name. Surviving the Civil Wars, when Fairfax
+used it for his head-quarters, it is noted that plays were privately
+performed here in Cromwell's time. In 1716, Addison married the dowager
+Countess of Holland and Warwick, and the estate passed to him, and he
+died at Holland House in 1719, having addressed to his stepson, the
+dissolute Earl of Warwick, the solemn words, "I have sent for you that
+you may see how a Christian can die." Two years later the young earl
+himself died. In 1762 the estate was sold to Henry Vassall Fox, Baron
+Holland, the famous Whig, who died there in 1774. It is related that
+during his last illness George Selwyn called and left his card. Selwyn
+had a fondness for seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord remarked, "If
+Mr. Selwyn calls again, show him up: if I am alive I shall be delighted
+to see him, and if I am dead he would like to see me." He composed his
+own epitaph: "Here lies Henry Vassall Fox, Lord Holland, etc., who was
+drowned while sitting in his elbow-chair." He died in his elbow-chair,
+of water in the chest. Charles James Fox was his second son, and passed
+his early years at Holland House. Near the mansion, on the Kensington
+Road,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> was the Adam and Eve Inn, where it is said that Sheridan, on his
+way to and from Holland House, regularly stopped for a dram, and thus
+ran up a long bill, which Lord Holland ultimately paid.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 497px;">
+
+<img src="images/p218-1.jpg" width="497" height="500" alt="DINING ROOM, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DINING ROOM, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p218-2" id="p218-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p218-2.jpg" width="600" height="491" alt="THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The house, built like half the letter H, is of red brick with stone
+finishings, and in the Elizabethan style, with Dutch gardens of a later
+date. Much of the old-time decorations and furniture remains. The
+library, a long gallery, forms the eastern wing, and contains a valuable
+collection, including many manuscripts and autographs. There are fine
+pictures and sculptures, with old clocks, vases, cabinets, and carvings,
+and also a celebrated collection of miniatures. For over two centuries
+it was the favorite resort of wits and beauties, painters and poets,
+scholars, philosophers, and statesmen. Lord Brougham says that in the
+time of Vassall, Lord Holland, it was the meeting-place of the Whig
+party, his liberal hospitality being a great attract<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>ive force, and
+Macaulay writes that it can boast a greater number of inmates
+distinguished in political and literary history than any other private
+dwelling in England. After Vassall's death his nephew maintained the
+reputation of Holland House, dying in 1840, when the estates descended
+to his only son, the late Lord Holland, who also kept up the character
+of the mansion. But now, however, the glory of the famous old house is
+slowly departing, and has chiefly become a fragrant memory.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 481px;">
+<a name="p219-1" id="p219-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p219-1.jpg" width="481" height="600" alt="LIBRARY, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIBRARY, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p219-2" id="p219-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p219-2.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="ROGERS&#39; SEAT IN THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROGERS&#39; SEAT IN THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Eastward from London is the great park which the queen in May opened
+with much pomp as a breathing-ground for the masses of that
+densely-populated region, the east end of the metropolis&mdash;Epping Forest.
+This beautiful enclosure originally consisted of nine thousand acres,
+but encroachments reduced it to about one-third that size. Reclamations
+were made, however, and the park now opened covers five thousand six
+hundred acres&mdash;a magnificent pleasure-ground.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>GREENWICH.</h3>
+
+<p>The river Thames, steadily gathering force after sweeping through London
+past the docks, and receiving upon its capacious bosom the vast commerce
+of all the world, encircles the Isle of Dogs (where Henry VIII. kept his
+hounds) below the city, and at the southern extremity of the reach we
+come to Greenwich. Here go many holiday-parties to the famous inns,
+where they get the Greenwich fish-dinners and can look back at the great
+city they have left. Here the ministry at the close of the session has
+its annual whitebait dinner. Greenwich was the Roman Grenovicum and the
+Saxon Green Town. Here encamped the Danes when they overran England in
+the eleventh century, and their fleet was anchored in the Thames. It
+became a royal residence in Edward I.'s time, and Henry IV. dated his
+will at the manor of Greenwich. In 1437, Greenwich Castle was built
+within a park, and its tower is now used for the Observatory. Humphrey,
+Duke of Gloucester, then held Greenwich, and was the regent of England
+during Henry VI.'s minority. He was assassinated by rivals in 1447, and
+the manor reverted to the Crown. The palace was enlarged and
+embellished, and Henry VIII. was born there in 1491. He greatly improved
+the palace, and made it his favorite residence, Queen Elizabeth being
+born there in 1533. King Edward VI. died at Greenwich in 1553, and
+Elizabeth, enlarging the palace, kept a regular court there. It was her
+favorite summer home, and the chronicler of the time, writing of a visit
+to the place, says, in describing the ceremonial of Elizabeth's court,
+that the presence-chamber was hung with rich tapestry, and the floor,
+after the then fashion, was covered with rushes. At the door stood a
+gentleman in velvet with a gold chain, who introduced persons of
+distinction who came to wait upon the queen. A large number of high
+officials waited for the queen to appear on her way to chapel.
+Ultimately she came out, attended by a gorgeous escort. She is described
+as sixty-five years old, very majestic, with an oblong face, fair but
+wrinkled, small black, pleasant eyes, nose a little hooked, narrow lips,
+and black teeth (caused by eating too much sugar). She wore false red
+hair, and had a small crown on her head and rich pearl drops in her
+ears, with a necklace of fine jewels falling upon her uncovered bosom.
+Her air was stately, and her manner of speech mild and obliging. She
+wore a white silk dress bordered with large pearls, and over it was a
+black silk mantle embroidered with silver thread. Her long train was
+borne by a marchioness. She spoke graciously to those whom she passed,
+occasionally giving her right hand to a favored one to kiss. Whenever
+she turned her face in going along everybody fell on their knees. The
+ladies of the court following her were mostly dressed in white.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+Reaching the ante-chapel, petitions were presented her, she receiving
+them graciously, which caused cries of "Long live Queen Elizabeth!" She
+answered, "I thank you, my good people," and then went into the service.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p221.jpg" width="650" height="379" alt="GREENWICH HOSPITAL, FROM THE RIVER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GREENWICH HOSPITAL, FROM THE RIVER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>King James I. put a new front in the palace, and his queen laid the
+foundation of the "House of Delight," which is now the central building
+of the Naval Asylum. King Charles I. resided much at Greenwich, and
+finished the "House of Delight," which was the most magnificently
+furnished mansion then in England. King Charles II., finding the palace
+decayed, for it had fallen into neglect during the Civil Wars, had it
+taken down, and began the erection of a new palace, built of freestone.
+In the time of William and Mary it became the Royal Naval Asylum, the
+magnificent group of buildings now there being extensions of Charles
+II.'s palace, while behind rises the Observatory, and beyond is the
+foliage of the park. The asylum was opened in 1705, and consists of
+quadrangular buildings enclosing a square. In the south-western building
+is the Painted Hall, adorned with portraits of British naval heroes and
+pictures of naval victories. The asylum supports about two thousand
+seven hundred in-pensioners and six thousand out-pensioners, while it
+has a school with eight hundred scholars. By a recent change the
+in-pensioners are permitted to reside where they please, and it has
+lately been converted into a medical hospital for wounded seamen. Its
+income is about $750,000 yearly. The Greenwich Observatory, besides
+being the centre whence longitude is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> reckoned, is also charged with the
+regulation of time throughout the kingdom.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<img src="images/p222.jpg" width="650" height="245" alt="LONDON, FROM GREENWICH PARK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LONDON, FROM GREENWICH PARK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Thames, which at London Bridge is eight hundred feet wide, becomes
+one thousand feet wide at Greenwich, and then it pursues its crooked
+course between uninteresting shores past Woolwich dockyard, where it is
+a quarter of a mile wide, and on to Gravesend, where the width is half a
+mile; then it broadens into an estuary which is eighteen miles wide at
+the mouth. Almost the only thing that relieves the dull prospect along
+the lower Thames is Shooter's Hill, behind Woolwich, which rises four
+hundred and twelve feet. Gravesend, twenty-six miles below London Bridge
+by the river, is the outer boundary of the port of London, and is the
+head-quarters of the Royal Thames Yacht Club. Its long piers are the
+first landing-place of foreign vessels. Gravesend is the head-quarters
+for shrimps, its fishermen taking them in vast numbers and London
+consuming a prodigious quantity. This fishing and custom-house town, for
+it is a combination of both, has its streets filled with "tea-and
+shrimp-houses."</p>
+
+
+<h3>TILBURY FORT.</h3>
+
+<p>On the opposite bank of the Thames is Tilbury Fort, the noted fortress
+that commands the navigation of the river and protects the entrance to
+London. It dates from Charles II.'s time, fright from De Ruyter's Dutch
+incursion up the Thames in 1667 having led the government to convert
+Henry VIII.'s blockhouse that stood there into a strong fortification.
+It was to Tilbury that Queen Elizabeth went when she defied the Spanish
+Armada. Leicester put a bridge of boats across the river to obstruct the
+passage, and gathered an army of eighteen thousand men on shore. Here
+the queen made her bold speech of defiance, in which she said she knew
+she had the body of but a weak and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> feeble woman, but she also had the
+heart and stomach of a king, and rather than her realm should be invaded
+and dishonor grow by her, she herself would take up arms. She had then,
+all told, one hundred and thirty thousand soldiers and one hundred and
+eighty-one war-vessels, but the elements conquered the "Invincible
+Armada," barely one-third of it getting back to Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Thus we have traced England's famous river from its source in the
+Cotswolds until it falls into the North Sea at the mouth of the broad
+estuary beyond Sheerness and the Nore. Knowing the tale of grandeur that
+its banks unfold, Wordsworth's feelings can be understood as he halted
+upon Westminster Bridge in the early morning and looked down the Thames
+upon London: its mighty heart was still and its houses seemed asleep as
+the tranquil scene inspired the great poet to write his sonnet:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Earth has not anything to show more fair;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Dull would he be of soul who could pass by</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A sight so touching in its majesty:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This city now doth like a garment wear</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Open unto the fields and to the sky;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Never did sun more beautifully steep</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">In his first splendor valley, rock, or hill;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The river glideth at his own sweet will;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dear God! the very houses seem asleep,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And all that mighty heart is lying still."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>V.</h2>
+
+<h3>LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Harrow&mdash;St. Albans&mdash;Verulam&mdash;Hatfield House&mdash;Lord
+Burleigh&mdash;Cassiobury&mdash;Knebworth&mdash;Great Bed of Ware&mdash;The river
+Cam&mdash;Audley End&mdash;Saffron Walden&mdash;Newport&mdash;Nell
+Gwynn&mdash;Littlebury&mdash;Winstanley&mdash;Harwich&mdash;Cambridge&mdash;Trinity and St.
+John's Colleges&mdash;Caius College&mdash;Trinity Hall&mdash;The Senate
+House&mdash;University Library&mdash;Clare College&mdash;Great St. Mary's
+Church&mdash;King's College&mdash;Corpus Christi College&mdash;St. Catharine's
+College&mdash;Queen's College&mdash;The Pitt Press&mdash;Pembroke
+College&mdash;Peterhouse&mdash;Fitzwilliam Museum&mdash;Hobson's Conduit&mdash;Downing
+College&mdash;Emmanuel College&mdash;Christ's College&mdash;Sidney-Sussex
+College&mdash;The Round Church&mdash;Magdalene College&mdash;Jesus
+College&mdash;Trumpington&mdash;The Fenland&mdash;Bury St. Edmunds&mdash;Hengrave
+Hall&mdash;Ely&mdash;Peterborough&mdash;Crowland Abbey&mdash;Guthlac&mdash;Norwich Castle
+and Cathedral&mdash;Stamford&mdash;Burghley House&mdash;George
+Inn&mdash;Grantham&mdash;Lincoln&mdash;Nottingham&mdash;Southwell&mdash;Sherwood
+Forest&mdash;Robin Hood&mdash;The Dukeries&mdash;Thoresby Hall&mdash;Clumber
+Park&mdash;Welbeck Abbey&mdash;Newstead Abbey&mdash;Newark&mdash;Hull&mdash;William
+Wilberforce&mdash;Beverley&mdash;Sheffield&mdash;Wakefield&mdash;Leeds&mdash;Bolton
+Abbey&mdash;The Strid&mdash;Ripon Cathedral&mdash;Fountains Abbey&mdash;Studley
+Royal&mdash;Fountains Hall&mdash;York&mdash;Eboracum&mdash;York Minster&mdash;Clifford's
+Tower&mdash;Castle Howard&mdash;Kirkham Priory&mdash;Flamborough
+Head&mdash;Scarborough&mdash;Whitby Abbey&mdash;Durham Cathedral and Castle&mdash;St.
+Cuthbert&mdash;The Venerable Bede&mdash;Battle of Neville's
+Cross&mdash;Chester-le-Street&mdash;Lumley
+Castle&mdash;Newcastle-upon-Tyne&mdash;Hexham&mdash;Alnwick Castle&mdash;Hotspur and
+the Percies&mdash;St. Michael's Church&mdash;Hulne Priory&mdash;Ford
+Castle&mdash;Flodden Field&mdash;The Tweed&mdash;Berwick&mdash;Holy
+Isle&mdash;Lindisfarne&mdash;Bamborough&mdash;Grace Darling.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>ST. ALBANS.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p225" id="p225"></a>
+<img src="images/p225.jpg" width="650" height="486" alt="ST. ALBANS, FROM VERULAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. ALBANS, FROM VERULAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p226-1" id="p226-1"></a><span class="caption">THE OLD WALL AT VERULAM.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p226-1.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:420px; height:310px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:350px;"> </div>
+
+<p><br />The railway running from London to Edinburgh, and on which the
+celebrated fast train the "Flying Scotchman" travels between the two
+capitals, is the longest in Britain. Its route northward from the
+metropolis to the Scottish border, with occasional digressions, will
+furnish many places of interest. On the outskirts of London, in the
+north-western suburbs, is the well-known school founded three hundred
+years ago by John Lyon at Harrow, standing on a hill two hundred feet
+high. One of the most interesting towns north of London, for its
+historical associations and antiquarian remains, is St. Albans in
+Hertfordshire. Here, on the opposite slopes of a shelving valley, are
+seen on the one hand the town that has clustered around the ancient
+abbey of St. Albans, and on the other the ruins of the fortification of
+Verulam, both relics of Roman power and magnificence. On this spot stood
+the chief town of the Cassii, whose king, Cassivelaunus, vainly opposed
+the inroads of C&aelig;sar. Here the victorious Roman, after crossing the
+Thames, besieged and finally overthrew the Britons. The traces of the
+ancient earthworks are still plainly seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> on the banks of the little
+river Ver, and when the Romans got possession there arose the
+flourishing town of Verulam, which existed until the British
+warrior-queen. Boadicea, stung by the oppressions of her race, stormed
+and captured the place and ruthlessly massacred its people. But her
+triumph was short lived, for the Romans, gaining reinforcements,
+recaptured the city. This was in the earlier days of the Christian era,
+and at a time when Christian persecutions raged. There then lived in
+Verulam a prominent man named Alban, a young Roman of good family. In
+the year 303 a persecuted priest named Amphibalus threw himself upon the
+mercy of Alban, and sought refuge in his house. The protection was
+granted, and in a few days the exhortations of Amphibalus had converted
+his protector to Christianity. The officials, getting word of
+Amphibalus' whereabouts, sent a guard to arrest him, whereupon Alban
+dismissed his guest secretly, and, wrapping himself in the priest's robe
+and hood, awaited the soldiers. They seized him, and took him before the
+magistrates, when the trick was discovered. He was given the alternative
+of dying or sacrificing to the gods of Rome, but, preferring the crown
+of martyrdom, after cruel torments he was led to his doom. He was to be
+taken across the Ver to be beheaded, but miracles appeared. The stream,
+which had been a-flood, quickly dried up, so that the multitude could
+pass, and this so touched the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> executioner that he refused to strike the
+blow and declared himself also a convert. The executioner's head was
+quickly stricken off, and another headsman obtained. Alban meanwhile was
+athirst, and at his prayer a spring broke from the ground for his
+refreshment. The new executioner struck off Alban's head, but in doing
+so his eyes dropped from their sockets. On the spot where Alban died the
+abbey was afterwards built. His martyrdom did not save Amphibalus, who
+was soon captured and put to death at Redburn, a few miles away, where
+his relics were afterwards discovered and enshrined, like those of his
+pupil, in the abbey.</p></div>
+
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p227-1" id="p227-1"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p227-1/227-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p227-1.jpg" width="295" height="500"
+ alt="THE TOWER OF THE ABBEY." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p227-2.jpg" width="237" height="500"
+ alt="STAIRCASE TO WATCHING-GALLERY." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE TOWER OF THE ABBEY.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STAIRCASE TO WATCHING-GALLERY.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p226-2" id="p226-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 271px;">
+<img src="images/p226-2.jpg" width="271" height="450" alt="MONASTERY GATE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MONASTERY GATE.</span>
+</div>
+<p>The sacrifice of the protomartyr brought its fruits. Verulam became
+Christian, and within a century was paying him the honors of a saint. In
+the eighth century King Offa of Mercia, having treacherously murdered
+King Ethelbert, became conscience-stricken, and to propitiate Heaven
+founded the abbey. He built a Benedictine monastery, which was richly
+endowed, and gradually attracted the town away from Verulam and over to
+its present site. This monastery existed until the Norman Conquest, when
+it was rebuilt, the ruins of Verulam serving as a quarry. Thus began the
+great abbey of St. Albans, which still overlooks the Ver, although it
+has been materially altered since. It prospered greatly, and the close
+neighborhood to London brought many pilgrims as well as royal visits.
+The abbots were invested with great powers and became dictatorial and
+proud, having frequent contests with the townsfolk; and it is recorded
+that one young man who applied for admission to the order, being refused
+on account of his ignorance, went abroad and ultimately became Pope
+Adrian IV. But he bore the abbot no ill-will, afterwards granting it
+many favors. Cardinal Wolsey was once the abbot, but did not actively
+govern it. In 1539 its downfall came, and it surrendered to King Henry
+VIII. The deed of surrender, signed by thirty-nine monks, is still
+preserved, and the seal is in the British Museum. The abbey is now in
+ruins; the church and gateway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> remain, but the great group of buildings
+that composed it has mostly disappeared, so that the old monastery is
+almost as completely effaced as Verulam. But the church, by being bought
+for $2000 for the St. Albans parish church, is still preserved, and is
+one of the most interesting ecclesiastical structures in England; yet
+its great length and massive central tower are rather unfavorable to its
+picturesqueness, though the tower when seen from a distance impresses by
+its grandeur and simplicity. In this tower, as well as in other parts of
+the church, can be detected the ancient bricks from Verulam. The
+ground-plan of St. Albans Church is a Latin cross, and it is five
+hundred and forty-eight feet long. The western part was erected in the
+twelfth, and the greater portion of the nave and choir in the thirteenth
+century. The floor of the choir is almost paved with sepulchral slabs,
+though of the two hundred monuments the church once contained barely a
+dozen remain. At the back of the high altar was the great treasury of
+the abbey, the shrine enclosing St. Alban's relics, but this was
+destroyed at the Reformation: some fragments have been since discovered,
+and the shrine thus reproduced with tolerable completeness. On the side
+of the chapel is a wooden gallery, with cupboards beneath and a
+staircase leading up to it. In the shrine and cupboards were the abbey
+treasures, and in the gallery the monks kept<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> watch at night lest they
+should be despoiled. This vigilance, we are told, was necessary, for
+rival abbeys were by no means scrupulous about the means by which they
+augmented their stores of relics. This quaint gallery, still preserved,
+is five hundred years old. Near the shrine is the tomb of Duke Humphrey
+of Gloucester, brother of King Henry V. and regent during the minority
+of Henry VI., who was assassinated at Windsor. The tomb was opened in
+1703, and the skeleton found buried among spices and enclosed in two
+coffins, the outer of lead. The vault remained opened, and visitors
+purloined good Humphrey's bones till nearly all had disappeared, when
+the authorities concluded it was better to close up the vault and save
+what remained. The massive gatehouse, which still exists, was built in
+Richard II.'s reign, and was used for a jail until not long ago they
+determined to put a school there. In front of it the martyr Tankerfield
+was burnt, and buried in 1555 in a little triangular graveyard which
+still exists. Fox, in his <i>Book of Martyrs</i>, relates that he endured the
+pain with great constancy, and testified to the last against the errors
+of his persecutors.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;">
+<a name="p228" id="p228"></a>
+<img src="images/p228.jpg" width="420" height="650" alt="THE SHRINE AND WATCHING-GALLERY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SHRINE AND WATCHING-GALLERY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;">
+<a name="p229-1" id="p229-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p229-1.jpg" width="368" height="500" alt="CLOCK-TOWER, ST. ALBANS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLOCK-TOWER, ST. ALBANS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p229-2" id="p229-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p229-2.jpg" width="550" height="290" alt="BARNARD&#39;S HEATH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BARNARD&#39;S HEATH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the town of St. Albans, near the abbey and at the junction of two
+streets, stands the ancient clock-tower, built in the early part of the
+fifteenth century, and mainly of flint. It occupies the site of an
+earlier one said to have been erected by two ladies of Verulam, who,
+wandering alone in the woods and becoming lost, saw a light in a house,
+sought refuge there, and erected the tower on the site as a memorial of
+their deliverance. The bell in this tower was in former days used to
+ring the curfew. The town itself has little to show. In the church of
+St. Peter, among the monumental brasses, is the one to a priest often
+quoted, that reads:</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p>
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Lo, all that here I spent, that some time had I;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All that I gave in good intent, that now have I;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That I neither gave nor lent, that now abie<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> I;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That I kept till I went, that lost I."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Edward Strong, the mason who built St. Paul's Cathedral in London under
+the direction of Wren, is also buried in this church. Its chief tenants,
+however, are the slain at the second battle of St. Albans in the Wars of
+the Roses. At the first of these battles, fought in 1455 on the east
+side of the town, Henry of Lancaster was wounded and captured by the
+Duke of York. The second battle, a much more important contest, was
+fought on Shrove Tuesday, February 17, 1461, at Barnard's Heath, north
+of the town, and near St. Peter's Church. Queen Margaret of Lancaster
+led her forces in person, and was victorious over the Yorkists under the
+Earl of Warwick, liberating the captive king, who was in the enemy's
+camp, and following the battle by a ruthless execution of prisoners.
+King Henry, who had gone to St. Alban's shrine in tribulation when
+captured in the earlier contest, also went there again in thanksgiving
+when thus liberated six years later. The town of St. Albans, by the
+growth of time, has stretched across the Ver, and one straggling suburb
+reaches into the north-western angle of the ruins of ancient Verulam,
+where it clusters around the little church of St. Michael within the
+Roman city. This is a plain church, built in patches, parts of it nearly
+a thousand years old, and is the burial place of Francis Bacon, who was
+Baron of Verulam and Viscount St. Albans. Within a niche on the side of
+the chancel is his familiar effigy in marble, where he sits in an
+arm-chair and contemplatively gazes upward. From these ruins of Verulam
+is obtained the best view of St. Alban's Abbey, with the town in the
+background, overlooked by its clock-tower.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<a name="p230" id="p230"></a>
+<img src="images/p230.jpg" width="371" height="550" alt="ST. MICHAEL&#39;S, VERULAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. MICHAEL&#39;S, VERULAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> This word means <i>expiate</i>.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>HATFIELD HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<p>A short distance east of St. Albans is Hatfield, and in a fine park in
+the suburbs stands the magnificent mansion of the Marquis of
+Salisbury&mdash;Hatfield House. The place is ancient, though the house is
+completely modern. The manor was given by King Edgar to the monastery at
+Ely, and, as in course of time the abbot became a bishop, the manor
+afterwards became known as Bishops Hatfield, a name that it still bears.
+The oldest portion of the present buildings was erected in the reign of
+Henry VII., and in the time of his successor it passed into possession
+of the Crown. Here lived young Edward VI., and he was escorted by the
+Earl of Hertford and a cavalcade of noblemen from Hatfield to London for
+his coronation. The youthful king granted Hatfield to his sister
+Elizabeth, and here she was kept in Queen Mary's reign after her release
+from the Tower. She was under the guardianship of Sir Thomas Pope when,
+in November, 1558, Queen Mary died, and Sir William Cecil sent
+mes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>sengers from London to apprise Elizabeth that the crown awaited her.
+We are told that when they arrived the princess was found in the park,
+sitting under a spreading oak&mdash;a noble tree then, but time has since
+made sad havoc with it, though the remains are carefully preserved as
+one of the most precious memorials at Hatfield. The family of Cecil,
+thus introduced to Hatfield, was destined to continue associated with
+its fortunes. Sir William came to the manor on the next day, and then
+peers and courtiers of all ilks flocked thither to worship the rising
+sun. On the following day the queen gave her first reception in the hall
+and received the fealty of the leading men of every party; but she did
+not forget Cecil, for her earliest act was to appoint him her chief
+secretary, lord treasurer, and adviser&mdash;a tie that continued for forty
+years and was only sundered by death. Cecil was afterwards made Lord
+Burghley, and the confidence thus first reposed in him within the hall
+that was afterwards to become the home of his descendants was most
+remarkable. "No arts," writes Lord Macaulay, "could shake the confidence
+which she reposed in her old and trusty servant. The courtly graces of
+Leicester, the brilliant talents and accomplishments of Essex, touched
+the fancy, perhaps the heart, of the woman, but no rival could deprive
+the treasurer of the place which he possessed in the favor of the queen.
+She sometimes chid him sharply, but he was the man whom she delighted to
+honor. For Burghley she forgot her usual parsimony, both of wealth and
+dignities; for Burghley she relaxed that severe etiquette to which she
+was unreasonably attached. Every other person to whom she addressed her
+speech, or on whom the glance of her eagle eye fell, instantly sank on
+his knee. For Burghley alone a chair was set in her presence, and there
+the old minister, by birth only a plain Lincolnshire esquire, took his
+ease, while the haughty heirs of the Fitzalans and De Veres humbled
+themselves to the dust around him. At length, having survived all his
+early coadjutors and rivals, he died, full of years and honors."</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p232" id="p232"></a>
+<img src="images/p232.jpg" width="600" height="340" alt="HATFIELD HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HATFIELD HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p231" id="p231"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 292px;">
+<img src="images/p231.jpg" width="292" height="450" alt="QUEEN ELIZABETH&#39;S OAK, HATFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">QUEEN ELIZABETH&#39;S OAK, HATFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But it was not until after his death that Hatfield came into possession
+of his family. He built Burghley House near Stamford in Lincolnshire,
+and left it to his younger son, Sir Robert Cecil. After Elizabeth's
+death, King James I. expressed a preference for Burghley over Hatfield,
+and an exchange was made by which Hatfield passed into possession of Sir
+Robert, who had suc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>ceeded his father as chief minister, and, though in
+weak health and of small stature, was a wise and faithful servant of the
+queen and of her successor. In Elizabeth's last illness, when she
+persisted in sitting propped up on a stool by pillows, he urged her to
+rest herself, and inadvertently said she "must go to bed." The queen
+fired up. "Must!" cried she. "Is <i>must</i> a word to be addressed to
+princes? Little man, little man, thy father if he had been alive durst
+not have used that word." Sir Robert did not survive the queen many
+years, and to him King James's peaceful succession to the throne is said
+to have been greatly due. The king made him the Earl of Salisbury, and
+the title descended for several generations, until, in 1773, the seventh
+earl was promoted to the rank of marquis, and now Robert Cecil, the
+third Marquis of Salisbury and one of the leaders of the Conservative
+party, presides over the estates at Hatfield. The chief entrance to
+Hatfield House is on the northern side, and above it rises a cupola. The
+buildings form three sides of an oblong, the longer line fronting the
+north and the two wings pointing towards the south. They are of brick,
+with stone dressings and facings, and are admired as a faithful example
+of the excellent domestic architecture of the early part of the
+seventeenth century. The approach through the park from the town is of
+great beauty, the grand avenue, bordered by stately trees, conducting
+the visitor to a court in front of the house enclosed by a balustrade
+with handsome gates. Within the building the most remarkable features
+are the galleries, extending along the entire southern front. The
+gallery on the ground<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> floor was formerly a corridor, open on one side
+to the air; but at a comparatively recent period this has been enclosed
+with glass, and thus converted into a gallery paved with black and white
+marble, and ornamented with arms and armor, some being trophies from the
+Armada and others from the Crimea. Here is the rich saddle-cloth used on
+the white steed that Queen Elizabeth rode at Tilbury. There are a fine
+chapel and attractive state-apartments, but around the old house there
+lingers a tale of sorrow. The western wing was burned in 1835, and the
+dowager marchioness, the grandmother of the present marquis, then five
+years old, perished in the flames, which originated in her chamber. This
+wing has been finely restored, and the room in which she was burned
+contains her portrait, an oval medallion let into the wall over the
+fireplace. It is the sweet and sunny face of a young girl, and her
+tragic fate in helpless age reminds of Solon's warning as we look at the
+picture: "Count no one happy till he dies." In the gallery at Hatfield
+are portraits of King Henry VIII. and all six of his wives. In the
+library, which is rich in historical documents, is the pedigree of Queen
+Elizabeth, emblazoned in 1559, and tracing her ancestry in a direct line
+back to Adam! The state bedrooms have been occupied by King James,
+Cromwell, and Queen Victoria. In the gardens, not far from the house, is
+the site of the old episcopal palace of Bishops Hatfield, of which one
+side remains standing, with the quaint gatehouse now used as an avenue
+of approach up the hill from the town to the stables. There is a fine
+view of the town through the ancient gateway. Here lived the princess
+Elizabeth, and in the halls where kings have banqueted the marquis's
+horses now munch their oats. Immediately below, in the town, is
+Salisbury Chapel, in which repose the bones of his ancestors.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p233" id="p233"></a>
+<img src="images/p233.jpg" width="600" height="372" alt="THE CORRIDOR, HATFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CORRIDOR, HATFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Also in Hertfordshire are Cassiobury, the seat of the Earls of Essex,
+whose ancestor, Lord Capel, who was beheaded in 1648 for his loyalty to
+King Charles I., brought the estate into the family by his marriage with
+Elizabeth Morison; and Knebworth, the home of Lord Lytton the novelist,
+which has been the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> home of his ancestors since the time of Henry VII.,
+when it was bought by Sir Robert Lytton. The "Great Bed of Ware" is one
+of the curiosities of the county&mdash;a vast bed twelve feet square,
+originally at the Saracen's Head Inn. It was built for King Edward IV.,
+and was curiously carved, and has had a distinguished place in English
+literary allusions. The bed still exists at Rye House in Hertfordshire,
+where it was removed a few years ago. A dozen people have slept in it at
+the same time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p234" id="p234"></a>
+<img src="images/p234.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="VIEW THROUGH OLD GATEWAY, HATFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEW THROUGH OLD GATEWAY, HATFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>AUDLEY END AND SAFFRON WALDEN.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p235" id="p235"></a>
+<img src="images/p235.jpg" width="600" height="406" alt="AUDLEY END, WESTERN FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">AUDLEY END, WESTERN FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Journeying farther from London, and into the county of Essex, we come to
+the little river Cam, and on the side of its valley, among the gentle
+undulations of the Essex uplands, is seen the palace of Audley End, and
+beyond it the village of Saffron Walden. Here in earlier times was the
+abbey of Walden, which, when dissolved by Henry VIII., was granted to
+Sir Thomas Audley, who then stood high in royal favor. But almost all
+remains of this abbey have disappeared, and Sir Thomas, who was Speaker
+of the House, got the grant because of his industry in promoting the
+king's wishes for the dissolution of the religious houses, and was also
+made Lord Audley of Walden. This, as Fuller tells us, was "a dainty
+morsel, an excellent receipt to clear the Speaker's voice, and make him
+speak clear and well for his master." But he did not live long to enjoy
+it, although giving the estate his name, and it passed ultimately to the
+Duke of Norfolk, after whose execution it became the property of his
+son, Lord Thomas Howard, whom Queen Elizabeth made Baron Walden, and
+King James appointed lord treasurer and promoted to be Earl of Suffolk.
+He built the great palace of Audley End, which was intended to eclipse
+every palace then existing in England. It was begun in 1603, and was
+finished in 1616, the date still remaining upon one of the gateways.
+King James twice visited Aud<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>ley End while building, and is said to have
+remarked, as he viewed its enormous proportions, that the house was too
+large for a king, though it might do for a lord treasurer. It cost over
+$1,000,000, but no accurate account was kept, and the earl was so
+straitened by the outlay, that after being dismissed from office he was
+compelled to sell out several other estates, and died nearly $200,000 in
+debt. The second and third earls tried to maintain the white elephant,
+but found it too heavy a burden, and the latter sold the house to King
+Charles II. for $250,000, of which $100,000 remained on mortgage. It was
+known as the New Palace, and became a royal residence. It consisted of a
+large outer court and a smaller inner one. Around these the buildings
+were constructed from one to three stories high, with towers at the
+corners and centres of the fronts. The impression produced by the design
+is said not to have been very favorable, it being insufficiently grand
+for so vast a pile, and while it was a pleasant residence in summer, the
+want of facilities for heating made it in winter little better than a
+barn. When Pepys visited Audley End in 1660 and 1668, his chief
+impression seems to have been of the cellars, for he writes: "Only the
+gallery is good, and, above all things, the cellars, where we went down
+and drank of much good liquor. And, indeed, the cellars are fine, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>
+here my wife and I did sing, to my great content." It was in the
+following year that the house was sold to the king. In 1701, however, it
+passed back to the fifth Earl of Suffolk, and about twenty years later a
+large part of the structure was taken down. Three sides of the great
+court, including the gallery referred to by Pepys, were demolished, and
+Audley End was reduced to the buildings around the smaller quadrangle;
+this was further reduced in 1749, so that the house assumed its present
+appearance of three sides of a square, open towards the east, and thus
+remains an excellent type of an early Jacobean mansion, its best view
+being from the garden front. Within it has fine apartments, and contains
+the only authentic portrait of George II. that is known. This king would
+never sit for his picture, and the artist by stealth sketched his
+likeness from a closet near the staircase of Kensington Palace, where he
+had an excellent view of the peculiar monarch. It is, as Thackeray says,
+the picture of a "red-faced, staring princeling," but is believed true
+to nature nevertheless. Lady Suffolk, it seems, was one of his few
+favorites. Audley End has been for a long time in possession of the
+Barons of Braybrooke, and is their principal seat. Lord Cornwallis, of
+American Revolutionary remembrance, was a member of this family, and his
+portrait is preserved here.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 635px;">
+<a name="p237" id="p237"></a>
+<img src="images/p237.jpg" width="635" height="650" alt="VIEWS IN SAFFRON WALDEN.
+
+1. Town-Hall. 2. Church. 3. Entrance to the Town." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEWS IN SAFFRON WALDEN.<br />
+
+1. Town-Hall. 2. Church. 3. Entrance to the Town.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Over the undulating surface of the park, barely a mile away, can be seen
+the pretty spire of Saffron Walden Church, with the village clustering
+around it. Here on a hill stand the church and the castle, originally of
+Walden, but from the extensive cultivation of saffron in the
+neighborhood the town came to have that prefix given it; it was grown
+there from the time of Edward III., and the ancient historian Fuller
+quaintly tells us "it is a most admirable cordial, and under God I owe
+my life, when sick with the small-pox, to the efficacy thereof." Fuller
+goes on to tell us that "the sovereign power of genuine saffron is
+plainly proved by the antipathy of the crocodile thereto; for the
+crocodile's tears are never true save when he is forced where saffron
+groweth, whence he hath his name of croco-deilos, or the saffron-fearer,
+knowing himself to be all poison, and it all antidote." Saffron attained
+its highest price at Walden in Charles II.'s time, when it was as high
+as twenty dollars a pound, but its disuse in medicine caused its value
+to diminish, and at the close of the last century its culture had
+entirely disappeared from Walden, though the prefix still clings to the
+name of the town. While saffron was declining, this neighborhood became
+a great producer of truffles, and the dogs were trained here to hunt the
+fungus that is so dear to the epicure's palate. The church of St. Mary,
+which is a fine Perpendicular structure and the most conspicuous feature
+of Saffron Walden, was built about four hundred years ago, though the
+slender spire crowning its western tower is of later date, having been
+built in the present century.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> In the church are buried the six Earls of
+Suffolk who lived at Audley End, and all of whom died between 1709 and
+1745. The ruins of the ancient castle, consisting chiefly of a portion
+of the keep and some rough arches, are not far from the church, and
+little is known of its origin. There is a museum near the ruins which
+contains some interesting antiquities and a fine natural-history
+collection. The newly-constructed town-hall, built in antique style,
+overhanging the footway and supported on arches, is one of the most
+interesting buildings in Saffron Walden: the mayor and corporation
+meeting here date their charter from 1549. Not far away, at Newport,
+lived Nell Gwynn in a modest cottage with a royal crown over the door.
+She was one of the numerous mistresses of Charles II., and is said to
+have been the only one who remained faithful to him. She bore him two
+sons, one dying in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> childhood, and the other becoming the Duke of St.
+Albans, a title created in 1684, and still continued in the persons of
+his descendants of the family of Beauclerc. Nell was originally an
+orange-girl who developed into a variety actress, and, fascinating the
+king, he bought her from Lord Buckhurst, her lover, for an earldom and a
+pension. Nell is said to have cost the king over $300,000 in four years.
+She had her good qualities and was very popular in England, and she
+persuaded the king to found Chelsea Hospital for disabled soldiers, and
+he also bore her genuine affection, for his dying words were, "Let not
+poor Nelly starve." She survived him about seven years. Also in the
+neighborhood, at Littlebury, was the home of Winstanley, the builder of
+the first Eddystone Lighthouse, who perished in it when it was destroyed
+by a terrific storm in 1703.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p238" id="p238"></a>
+<img src="images/p238.jpg" width="600" height="312" alt="JETTIES AT HARWICH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JETTIES AT HARWICH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Digressing down to the coast of Essex, on the North Sea, we find at the
+confluence of the Stour and Orwell the best harbor on that side of
+England, bordered by the narrow and old-fashioned streets of the ancient
+seaport of Harwich. Here vast fleets seek shelter in easterly gales
+behind the breakwater that is run out from the Beacon Hill. From here
+sail many steamers to Rotterdam and Antwerp in connection with the
+railways from London, and the harbor-entrance is protected by the
+ancient Languard Fort, built by James I. on a projecting spit of land
+now joined to the Suffolk coast to the northward. One of the most
+interesting scenes at Harwich is a group of old wrecks that has been
+utilized for a series of jetties in connection with a shipbuilder's
+yard. Weather-beaten and battered, they have been moored in a placid
+haven, even though it be on the unpicturesque coast of Essex.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>CAMBRIDGE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p239" id="p239"></a>
+<img src="images/p239.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="BRIDGE, ST. JOHN&#39;S COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRIDGE, ST. JOHN&#39;S COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Returning to the valley of the Cam, we will follow it down to the great
+university city of Cambridge, fifty-eight miles north of London. It
+stands in a wide and open valley, and is built on both banks of the
+river, which is navigable up to this point, so that the town is
+literally the "Bridge over the Cam." The situation is not so picturesque
+or so favorable as that of the sister university city of Oxford, but it
+is nevertheless an attractive city, the stately buildings being
+admirably set off by groups and avenues of magnificent trees that
+flourish nowhere to better advantage than in English scenery. The chief
+colleges are ranged along the right bank of the Cam, with their fronts
+away from the water, while behind each there is a sweep of deliciously
+green meadowland known as the "Backs of the Colleges," surrounded by
+trees, and with a leafy screen of foliage making the background beyond
+the buildings. While the greater part of modern Cambridge is thus on the
+right bank of the river, the oldest portion was located on a low plateau
+forming the opposite shore. It is uncertain when the university was
+first established there. Henry Beau<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>clerc, the youngest son of William
+the Conqueror, studied the arts and sciences at Cambridge, and when he
+became king he bestowed many privileges upon the town and fixed a
+regular ferry over the Cam. By the thirteenth century scholars had
+assembled there and become a recognized body, according to writs issued
+by Henry III. In 1270 the title of a university was formally bestowed,
+and the oldest known collegiate foundation&mdash;Peterhouse, or St. Peter's
+College&mdash;had been established a few years before. Cambridge has in all
+seventeen colleges, and the present act of incorporation was granted by
+Queen Elizabeth. The Duke of Devonshire is the chancellor. The student
+graduates either "in Honors" or "in the Poll." In the former case he can
+obtain a distinction in mathematics, classics, the sciences, theology,
+etc. The names of the successful students are arranged in three classes
+in a list called the Tripos, a name derived from the three-legged stool
+whereon sat in former days one of the bachelors, who recited a set of
+satirical verses at the time the degrees were conferred. In the
+Mathematical Tripos the first class are called Wranglers, and the others
+Senior and Junior Optimes. Thus graduate the "Dons" of Cambridge.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TRINITY AND ST. JOHN'S COLLEGES.</h3>
+
+<p>Let us now take a brief review of the seventeen colleges of Cambridge.
+In Trinity Street is Trinity College, founded in 1546 by Henry VIII. It
+consists of four quadrangular courts, the Great Court being the largest
+quadrangle in the university, and entered from the street by the grand
+entrance-tower known as the King's Gateway. On the northern side of the
+quadrangle are the chapel and King Edward's Court, and in the centre of
+the southern side the Queen's Tower, with a statue of Queen Mary. In the
+centre of the quadrangle is a quaint conduit. The chapel is a plain
+wainscoted room, with an ante-chapel filled with busts of former members
+of the college&mdash;among them Bacon and Macaulay&mdash;and also a noble statue
+of Newton. Trinity College Hall is one hundred feet long and the finest
+in Cambridge, its walls being adorned with several portraits. It was in
+Trinity that Byron, Dryden, Cowley, Herbert, and Tennyson were all
+students. There are said to be few spectacles more impressive than the
+choral service on Sunday evening in term-time, when Trinity Chapel is
+crowded with surpliced students. In the Master's Lodge, on the western
+side of the quadrangle, are the state-apartments where royalty is lodged
+when visiting Cambridge, and here also in special apartments the judges
+are housed when on circuit. Through screens or passages in the hall the
+second quadrangle, Neville's Court, is entered, named for a master of
+the college who died in 1615. Here is the library, an attractive
+apartment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> supported on columns, which contains Newton's telescope and
+some of his manuscripts, and also a statue of Byron. The King's (or New)
+Court, is a modern addition, built in the present century at a cost of
+$200,000. From this the College Walks open on the western side, the view
+from the gateway looking down the long avenue of lime trees being
+strikingly beautiful. The Master's Court is the fourth quadrangle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p241" id="p241"></a>
+<img src="images/p241.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="HALL OF TRINITY COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HALL OF TRINITY COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Adjoining Trinity is its rival, St. John's College, also consisting of
+four courts, though one of them is of modern construction and on the
+opposite bank of the river. This college was founded by the countess
+Margaret of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., and opened in 1516, having
+been for three centuries previously a hospital. It is generally regarded
+from this circumstance as being the oldest college at Cambridge. The
+gateway is a tower of mingled brick and stone and one of the earliest
+structures of the college. Entering it, on the opposite side of the
+court is seen the New Chapel, but recently completed, a grand edifice
+one hundred and seventy-two feet long and sixty-three feet high, with a
+surmounting tower whose interior space is open and rises eighty-four
+feet above the pavement. The roof and the windows are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> richly colored,
+and variegated marbles have been employed in the interior decoration.
+The eastern end is a five-sided apse; the ceiling is vaulted in oak,
+while the chapel has a magnificent screen. Between the first and second
+courts is the hall, recently enlarged and decorated, and the library is
+on the northern side of the third court. It is a picturesque room of
+James I.'s time, with a timbered roof, whitened walls, and carved oaken
+bookcases black with age. The second court is of earlier date, and a
+fine specimen of sixteenth-century brickwork. On the southern side is an
+octagonal turret, at the top of which is the queer little room occupied
+by Dr. Wood, whose statue is in the chapel. When he first came to
+college from his humble home in the north of England he was so poor that
+he studied by the light of the staircase candle, and wrapped his feet in
+wisps of hay in winter to save the cost of a fire. He became the Senior
+Wrangler, and in due course a Fellow, and ultimately master of the
+college. To this was added the deanery of Ely. Dying, he bequeathed his
+moderate fortune for the aid of poor students and the benefit of his
+college. Of the third court the cloister on the western side fronts the
+river. The New Court, across the Cam, is a handsome structure, faced
+with stone and surmounted by a tower. A covered Gothic bridge leads to
+it over the river from the older parts of the college. In the garden
+along the river, known as the Wilderness, Prior the poet is said to have
+laid out the walks. Here among the students who have taken recreation
+have been Wordsworth and Herschel, Wilberforce and Stillingfleet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p242" id="p242"></a>
+<img src="images/p242.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="ST. JOHN&#39;S CHAPEL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. JOHN&#39;S CHAPEL.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>CAIUS AND CLARE COLLEGES.</h3>
+
+<p>It took two founders to establish Gonville and Caius College, and both
+their names are preserved in the title, though it is best known as Caius
+(pronounced Keys) College. Its buildings were ancient, but have been
+greatly changed in the present century, so that the chief entrance is
+now beneath a lofty tower, part of the New Court and fronting the Senate
+House. This New Court is a fine building, ornamented with busts of the
+most conspicuous men of Caius. Beyond is the smaller or Caius Court of
+this college, constructed in the sixteenth century. The "Gate of Virtue
+and Wisdom" connects them, and is surmounted by an odd turret. On the
+other side is the "Gate of Honor," a good specimen of the Renaissance.
+The "Gate of Humility" was removed in rebuilding the New Court. Thus did
+this college give its students veritable sermons in stones. The founders
+of Caius were physicians, and among its most eminent members were Hervey
+and Jeremy Taylor. Adjoining Caius is Trinity Hall, as noted for the law
+as its neighbor is for medicine, and immediately to the south is a group
+of university buildings. Among these is the Senate House, opened in
+1730, where the university degrees are conferred. It has a fine
+interior, especially the ceiling, and among the statues is an impressive
+one of the younger Pitt. The most exciting scene in the Senate House is
+when the result of the mathematical examination is announced. This for a
+long time was almost the only path to distinction at Cambridge. When all
+are assembled upon a certain Friday morning in January, one of the
+examiners stands up in the centre of the western gallery and just as the
+clock strikes nine proclaims to the crowd the name of the "Senior
+Wrangler," or first student of the year, with a result of deafening
+cheers; then the remainder of the list is read. On the following day the
+recipients of degrees and visitors sit on the lower benches, and the
+undergraduates cram the galleries. Then with much pomp the favored
+student is conducted to the vice-chancellor to receive his first degree
+alone. The University Library is near by, and, as it gets a copy of
+every book entered for English copyright, it has become a large one.
+Some of the manuscripts it contains are very valuable, particularly the
+<i>Codex Beza</i>, a manuscript of the Gospels given in 1581 by Beza.</p>
+
+<p><a name="p244" id="p244"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 8em;">BACK OF CLARE COLLEGE.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p244.jpg); height: 100%;">
+
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:640px; height:350px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:220px; height:100px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Adjoining Trinity Hall is the beautiful court of Clare College, dating
+from the time of the Civil Wars, when it replaced older structures. Its
+exterior is most attractive to visitors, exhibiting the pleasing
+architecture of the sixteenth century. The river-front is much admired,
+while the gateway is marked by quaint lantern-like windows. In the
+library is one of the rare Bibles of Sixtus V., and in the Master's
+Lodge is kept the poison-cup of Clare, which is both<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> curious and
+beautiful. The gentle lady's mournful fate has been told by Scott in
+<i>Marmion</i>. Tillotson and other famous divines were students at Clare,
+and the college also claims Chaucer, but this is doubtful, though the
+college figures in his story of the "Miller of Trumpington," and also
+adjuts upon Trumpington Street. Upon the opposite side of this street is
+Great St. Mary's Church, the university church, an attractive building
+of Perpendicular architecture and having fine chimes of bells. Here the
+vice chancellor listens to a sermon every Sunday afternoon in term-time.
+Formerly, on these occasions, the "heads and doctors" of the university
+sat in an enclosed gallery built like a sort of gigantic opera-box, and
+profanely called the "Golgotha." A huge pulpit faced them on the other
+end of the church, and the centre formed a sort of pit. Modern
+improvements have, however, swept this away, replacing it with ordinary
+pews.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h3>KING'S, CORPUS CHRISTI, AND QUEENS' COLLEGES.</h3>
+
+<p>Trumpington Street broadens into the King's Parade, and here, entered
+through a modern buttressed screen pierced with openings filled with
+tracery, is King's College. It was founded by Henry VI. in 1440, and in
+immediate connection with the school at Eton, from which the more
+advanced scholars were to be transferred. The great King's Chapel, which
+gives an idea of the grand scale on which this college was to be
+constructed, is the special boast of Cambridge. It is two hundred and
+eighty feet long, forty-five feet wide, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> seventy-eight feet high,
+with a marvellously fretted roof of stone, and large windows at the
+sides and ends filled with beautiful stained glass. This is the most
+imposing of all the buildings in Cambridge, and occupies the entire
+northern side of the college court. Its fine doorway is regarded as the
+most pleasing part of the exterior design. The stained-glass windows are
+divided into an upper and lower series of pictures. The lower is a
+continuous chain of gospel history, while the upper exhibits the
+Old-Testament types of the subjects represented below. Although designed
+on such a magnificent scale, the Wars of the Roses interfered with the
+completion of King's College, and even the chapel was not finished until
+Henry VIII.'s reign. The other college buildings are modern.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;">
+<a name="p245" id="p245"></a>
+<img src="images/p245.jpg" width="354" height="600" alt="KING&#39;S COLLEGE CHAPEL&mdash;INTERIOR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KING&#39;S COLLEGE CHAPEL&mdash;INTERIOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Adjoining King's is Corpus Christi College, the buildings being almost
+entirely modern. Of the ancient structure one small court alone remains,
+a picturesque steep-roofed building almost smothered in ivy. Corpus
+Christi Hall is said to have been partly designed after the great hall
+of Kenilworth. In its library are the famous manuscripts rescued from
+the suppressed monasteries, there being four hundred interesting and
+curious volumes of these precious documents, which are most jealously
+guarded. Opposite Corpus is St. Catharine's College, with a
+comparatively plain hall and chapel. Behind this is Queens' College, an
+antique structure, though not a very ancient foundation. Its
+entrance-tower is of brick, and a quaint low cloister runs around the
+interior court. Within is Erasmus's Court, where are pointed out the
+rooms once occupied by that great scholar. Across the river a wooden
+bridge leads to a terrace by the water-side with an overhanging border
+of elms, and known as Erasmus's Walk. This college was founded by the
+rival queens, Margaret of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> Anjou and Elizabeth Widvile, and though it is
+very proud of having had the great scholar of the Reformation within its
+halls, he does not seem to have entirely reciprocated the pleasure; for
+he complains in a letter to a friend that while there "he was blockaded
+with the plague, beset with thieves, and drugged with bad wine."
+Returning to Trumpington Street, we find on the western side the
+University Printing Press, named from the younger statesman the Pitt
+Press. He represented the university in Parliament, and the lofty square
+and pinnacled tower of this printing-office is one of the most
+conspicuous objects in Cambridge. Yet even this structure has its
+contrasts, for the "Cantabs" consider that its architecture is as bad as
+its typography is good.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;">
+<a name="p246" id="p246"></a>
+<img src="images/p246.jpg" width="444" height="600" alt="DOORWAY OF KINGS COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DOORWAY OF KINGS COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>OTHER CAMBRIDGE COLLEGES.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 471px;">
+<a name="p247" id="p247"></a>
+<img src="images/p247.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="SCENES IN CAMBRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCENES IN CAMBRIDGE.<br />
+
+1. The Senate House. 2. The Pitt Press.<br />3. The Round Church. 4. Great
+St. Mary&#39;s.<br />5. Fitzwilliam Museum.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>Pembroke College, near the Pitt Press, has a chapel designed by
+Christopher Wren and recently enlarged. This was the college of Spenser
+and Gray, the latter having migrated from the neighboring Peterhouse
+because of the practical jokes the students played upon him. It was also
+Pitt's college. Opposite Pembroke is Peterhouse, or St. Peter's College,
+the most ancient foundation in Cambridge, established by Hugh de
+Balsham, Bishop of Ely, in 1284. Beyond Peterhouse is the Fitzwilliam
+Museum, a most successful reproduction of classic architecture, built
+and maintained by a legacy of $500,000 left by Viscount Fitzwilliam in
+1816. It contains an excellent art and literary collection, which was
+begun by the viscount. This is regarded as probably the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> finest
+classical building constructed in the present century in England. A
+short distance beyond, at the end of a water-course, is an attractive
+hexagonal structure with niched recesses and ornamental capstones. This
+is Hobson's Conduit, erected in 1614 by Thomas Hobson. This benefactor
+of Cambridge was a carrier between London and the university, and is
+said to have been the originator of "Hobson's Choice." The youngest
+foundation at Cambridge is Downing College, erected in 1807, an
+unobtrusive structure, and near by is Emmanuel College, built on the
+site of a Dominican convent and designed by Wren. It was founded by Sir
+Walter Mildmay, the Puritan, in 1584, who on going to court was taxed by
+Queen Mary with having erected a Puritan college. "No, madam," he
+replied, "far be it from me to countenance anything contrary to your
+established laws, but I have set an acorn, which when it becomes an oak
+God alone knows what will be the fruit thereof." Sir William Temple was
+educated at Emmanuel. Christ's College is near by, chiefly interesting
+from its associations with Milton, whose rooms are still pointed out,
+while a mulberry tree that he planted is preserved in the garden.
+Latimer and Paley, with a host of other divines, were students here.
+This college was founded by Queen Margaret, mother of Henry VII., and
+some beautiful silver plate, her gift to the Fellows, is still
+preserved. At Sidney-Sussex College Cromwell was a Fellow in 1616, and
+his crayon portrait hangs in the dining-hall. Owing to want of means, he
+left without taking a degree. An oriel window projecting over the street
+is said to mark his chamber. Upon Bridge Street is the Round Church, or
+St. Sepulchre's Church, obtaining its name from its circular Norman
+nave, this being one of the four "Temple churches" still remaining in
+England. Across the Cam stands Magdalene College, founded in 1519 by
+Baron Thomas Audley of Walden. Within the building behind it are the
+literary collections of Samuel Pepys, who was secretary to the Admiralty
+in the reigns of Charles II. and James II., together with the manuscript
+of his famous diary, a book of marvellous gossip, recording the
+peccadilloes of its author, the jealousy of his wife, and the
+corruptions of the court. He was educated at Magdalene.</p>
+
+<p>Jesus Lane leads out of Bridge Street to Jesus College, remotely placed
+on the river-bank, and of which the chief building of interest is the
+chapel, a fine Gothic structure. This college is upon the site of a
+Benedictine nunnery founded in 1133, and is entered by a lofty brick
+gate-tower which is much admired, and was constructed soon after the
+foundation of the college in 1497 by the Bishop of Ely, whose successors
+until this day retain the gift of the mastership. From Jesus Lane a path
+leads down to the boat-houses on the river bank, where each college has
+a boat-club wearing a distinctive dress.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> The racecourse is at the Long
+Reach, just below the town. Of the ancient Cambridge Castle, built by
+the Conqueror in 1068, nothing remains but the mound upon Castle Hill,
+where the county courts are now located. Cambridge, however, has little
+besides its university buildings to attract attention. In the suburbs
+are two colleges for the instruction of lady students, and two miles
+away is Trumpington, near which is the site of the mill told of in
+Chaucer's Canterbury tale of the <i>Miller of Trumpington</i>. The place is
+now used for gates to admit the river-water into Byron's Pool, which is
+so called because the poet frequently bathed in it when he was an
+undergraduate of Trinity College.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;">
+<a name="p249" id="p249"></a>
+<img src="images/p249.jpg" width="384" height="500" alt="GATEWAY JESUS COLLEGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY JESUS COLLEGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE FENLAND.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p250-1" id="p250-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p250-1.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="HENGRAVE HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HENGRAVE HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p250-2" id="p250-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p250-2.jpg" width="600" height="518" alt="ROAD LEADING TO ELY CLOSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROAD LEADING TO ELY CLOSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The river Cam below Cambridge flows through that country of reclaimed
+marshland which ultimately ends in the Wash, between Norfolk and
+Lincolnshire, and is known as the Fenland. This "Great Level of the
+Fens" has been drained and reclaimed by the labors of successive
+generations of engineers, and contains about six hundred and eighty
+thousand acres of the richest lands in England, being as much the
+product of engineering skill as Holland itself. Not many centuries ago
+this vast surface, covering two thousand square miles, was entirely
+abandoned to the waters, forming an immense estuary of the Wash, into
+which various rivers discharge the rainfall of Central England. In
+winter it was an inland sea and in summer a noxious swamp. The more
+elevated parts were overgrown with tall reeds that in the distance
+looked like fields of waving corn, and immense flocks of wild-fowl
+haunted them. Into this dismal swamp the rivers brought down their
+freshets, the waters mingling and winding by devious channels before
+they reached the sea. The silt with which they were laden became
+deposited in the basin of the Fens, and thus the river-beds were choked
+up, compelling the intercepted waters to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> force new channels through the
+ooze; hence there are numerous abandoned beds of old rivers still
+traceable amid the level of the Fens. This region now is drained and
+dyked, but in earlier times it was a wilderness of shallow waters and
+reedy islets, with frequent "islands" of firmer and more elevated
+ground. These were availed of for the monasteries of the Fenland&mdash;Ely,
+Peterborough, Crowland, and others, all established by the Benedictines.
+The abbey of Bury St. Edmunds, although situated some distance from the
+marshland, may also be classed among the religious houses of the Fens.
+This abbey, which is a short distance east of Cambridge, was built in
+the eleventh century as the shrine of St. Edmund, King of East Anglia,
+who was killed by the Danes about the year 870. It soon became one of
+the wealthiest English monasteries, and was the chief religious centre
+of that section. Only ruins remain, the chief being the abbey-gate, now
+the property of the Marquis of Bristol, and the Norman tower and church,
+which have recently been restored. In the suburbs of Bury is Hengrave
+Hall, one of the most interesting Tudor mansions remaining in the
+kingdom. Originally, it was three times its present size, and was built
+by Sir Thomas Kytson about 1525. Its gate-house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> is rich in details, and
+the many windows and projections of the southern front group
+picturesquely.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p251" id="p251"></a>
+<img src="images/p251.jpg" width="600" height="493" alt="ELY CATHEDRAL, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELY CATHEDRAL, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Following the Cam northward from Cambridge through the marshland, we
+come to the Isle of Ely, the great "fortress of the Fens," and standing
+upon its highest ground the cathedral of Ely. Here St. Etheldreda
+founded a monastery in the seventh century, which ultimately became a
+cathedral, Ely having been given a bishop in 1109. The present buildings
+date all the way from the eleventh to the sixteenth century, so that
+they give specimens of all Gothic styles. The cathedral is five hundred
+and thirty-seven feet long, and from the summit of its western tower can
+be gained a fine view of the spreading fens and lowlands of
+Cambridgeshire, amid which stands the Isle of Ely. One of the finest
+views of this tower is that obtained from the road leading to Ely Close.
+Before drainage had improved the surrounding country this was one of the
+strongest fortresses in England, and it was also one of the last to
+yield<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> to the Norman Conquest, its reduction causing King William heavy
+loss. Afterwards he regarded it as among his most loyal strongholds. The
+lofty tower, and indeed the whole cathedral, are landmarks for the
+entire country round, and from the rising ground at Cambridge, fully
+twenty miles to the southward, can be seen standing out against the sky.
+From the dykes and fields and meadows that have replaced the marshes
+along the Cam and Ouse the huge tower can be seen looming up in stately
+grandeur. It is almost the sole attraction of the sleepy little country
+town. The great feature of this massive cathedral is the wonderful
+central octagon, with its dome-like roof crowned by a lofty lantern,
+which is said to be the only Gothic dome of its kind in existence in
+England or France. We are told that the original cathedral had a central
+tower, which for some time showed signs of instability, until on one
+winter's morning in 1321 it came down with an earthquake crash and
+severed the cathedral into four arms. In reconstructing it, to ensure
+security, the entire breadth of the church was taken as a base for the
+octagon, so that it was more than three times as large as the original
+square tower. Magnificent windows are inserted in the exterior faces of
+the octagon, and the entire cathedral has been recently restored. It was
+to Bishop Cox, who then presided over the see of Ely, that Queen
+Elizabeth, when he objected to the alienation of certain church
+property, wrote her famous letter:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"<span class="smcap">Proud Prelate</span>: You know what you were before I made you what you
+are; if you do not immediately comply with my request, by God, I
+will unfrock you."</p>
+
+<p class="author">
+"<span class="smcap">Elizabeth R.</span>"<br />
+</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;">
+<a name="p252" id="p252"></a>
+<img src="images/p252.jpg" width="320" height="650" alt="OLD BITS IN ELY.
+" title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD BITS IN ELY.<br />
+
+
+1. Old passage from Ely street to Cathedral Ford.<br />
+2. Entrance to Prior Crawdon&#39;s Chapel.<br />
+3. Old houses in High Street.
+
+
+</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The bishop, it is almost unnecessary to say, surrendered. The town
+contains little of interest beyond some quaint old houses.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p253" id="p253"></a>
+<img src="images/p253.jpg" width="600" height="600" alt="PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p254" id="p254"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/p254.jpg" width="339" height="450" alt="AISLE AND CHOIR, PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">AISLE AND CHOIR, PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /><br />North-westward of Ely, and just on the border of the Fenland, Saxulf, a
+thane of Mercia who had acquired great wealth, founded the first and
+most powerful of the great Benedictine abbeys of this region in the year
+655. Around this celebrated religious house has grown the town of
+Peterborough, now one of the chief railway-junctions in Midland England.
+The remains of the monastic buildings, and especially of the cathedral,
+are magnificent, the great feature of the latter being its western
+front, which was completed in the thirteenth century,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> and has three
+great open arches, making probably the finest church-portico in Europe.
+On the left of the cathedral is the chancel of Becket's Chapel, now a
+grammar-school, while on the right is the ancient gateway of the abbot's
+lodgings, which has become the entrance to the bishop's palace. The main
+part of the cathedral is Norman, though portions are Early English. It
+is built in the form of a cross, with a smaller transept at the western
+end, while the choir terminates in an apse, and a central tower rises
+from four supporting arches. Within the cathedral, over the doorway, is
+a picture of old Scarlet, Peterborough's noted sexton, who buried
+Catharine of Arragon and Mary Queen of Scots. The nave has an ancient
+wooden roof, carefully preserved and painted with various devices. The
+transept arches are fine specimens of Norman work. Queen Catharine lies
+under a slab in the aisle of St. John's Chapel, but the remains of Queen
+Mary were removed to Westminster Abbey by James I., to the magnificent
+tomb he prepared there for his mother.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>CROWLAND ABBEY.</h3>
+
+<p>Farther northward in the Fenland, and over the border in Lincolnshire,
+was the Benedictine abbey of "courteous Crowland," though its remains
+are now scanty. It derives its name from the "Land of Crows," which in
+this part is drained by the Welland River and the great Bedford Level.
+On one of the many islands of firmer soil abounding in this oozy region
+the monks constructed their monastery, but had little space for
+cultivation, and brought their food from remoter possessions. Now,
+Crowland is no longer an island, for the drainage has made fast land all
+about, and the ruins have attracted a straggling village. Here is the
+famous "triangular bridge," a relic of the abbey. Three streams met, and
+the bridge was made to accommodate the monks, who, from whatever
+direction they approached, had to cross one of them. The streams now are
+conveyed underground, but the bridge remains like a stranded monster
+which the tide has abandoned, and gives the children a play-place. Its
+steep half-arches, meeting in the centre, are climbed by rough steps.
+The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> dissolved abbey served as a quarry for the village, and hence on
+this strange bridge and on all the houses fragments of worked stone and
+of sculpture everywhere appear. It was located at the eastern end of the
+village, where its ruins still stand up as a guide across the fens, seen
+from afar. Most of it is in complete ruin, but the north aisle of the
+nave has been sufficiently preserved to serve as the parish church of
+Crowland; round about the church and the ruins extends the village
+graveyard. Set up in the porch beneath the tower is a memorial for
+William Hill, the sexton, who died in 1792. When forty years old he was
+blinded by exposure during a snowfall, yet he lived for twenty-five
+years afterwards, able to find his way everywhere and to know every
+grave in the churchyard.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p255" id="p255"></a>
+<img src="images/p255.jpg" width="650" height="408" alt="EAST END OF CROWLAND ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EAST END OF CROWLAND ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the earlier days of Christianity the solitudes in this Fenland had
+peculiar attractions for the hermits who fled from the world to embrace
+an ascetic life. Thus the islands each gradually got its hermit, and the
+great monasteries grew up by degrees, starting usually in the cell of
+some recluse. Guthlac, who lived in the seventh century, was of the
+royal House of Mercia, and voluntarily exiled himself in the Fens. This
+region was then, according to popular belief, the haunt of myriads of
+evil spirits, who delighted in attacking the hermits. They assaulted
+Guthlac in hosts, disturbed him by strange noises, once carried him far
+away to the icy regions of the North, and not seldom took the form of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>
+crows, the easier to torment him; but his steady prayers and penance
+ultimately put them to flight, and the existence of his cell became
+known to the world. Ethelbald fled to Guthlac for refuge, and the hermit
+predicted he would become king, which in time came to pass. Guthlac died
+at Crowland, and the grateful king built a stone church there. The
+buildings increased, their great treasure being of course the tomb of
+the hermit, which became a source of many miracles. The Northmen in the
+ninth century plundered and destroyed Crowland, but it was restored, and
+in Edward the Confessor's time was one of the five religious houses
+ruled by the powerful abbot of Peterborough. It became the shrine of
+Waltheof, the Earl of Northampton beheaded for opposing William the
+Conqueror, and Crowland was thus made a stronghold of English feeling
+against the Normans, like the other monasteries of the Fens. Its fame
+declined somewhat after the Conquest, though its hospitality was fully
+maintained. It had little subsequent history. The abbey was garrisoned
+by the Royalists, and captured by Cromwell in 1643, after which it fell
+into ruin. Such has been the fate of almost all the religious houses in
+the Fens, the merits of which the people in the olden time judged
+according to a local rhyme which yet survives:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Ramsay, the bounteous of gold and of fee;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crowland, as courteous as courteous may be;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spalding the rich, and Peterborough the proud;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sawtrey, by the way, that poor abbaye,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gave more alms in one day than all they."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>NORWICH.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding eastward out of the Fenland and among the hills of Norfolk,
+the little river Wensum is found to have cut a broad, deep, and
+trench-like valley into the chalk and gravel plateau. Upon the elevated
+bank of the river is the irregularly picturesque town of Norwich, with
+the castle keep rising above the undulating mass of buildings, and the
+cathedral and its noble spire overtopping the lower portion of the city
+on the right hand. Norwich is an ancient town, but very little is known
+with certainty about it anterior to the Danish invasions. We are told
+that its original location was at the more southerly castle of Caister,
+whence the inhabitants migrated to the present site, for&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Caister was a city when Norwich was none,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And Norwich was built of Caister stone."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Canute held possession of Norwich and had a castle there, but the
+present castle seems to date from the Norman Conquest, when it was
+granted to Ralph de Quader, who turned traitor to the king, causing
+Norfolk to be besieged,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> captured, and greatly injured. Then the castle
+was granted to Roger Bigod. The town grew, and became especially
+prosperous from the settlement there of numerous Flemish weavers in the
+fourteenth century and of Walloons in Elizabeth's reign. It managed to
+keep pretty well out of the Civil Wars, but a local historian says, "The
+inhabitants have been saved from stagnation by the exceeding bitterness
+with which all party and local political questions are discussed and
+contested, and by the hearty way in which all classes throw themselves
+into all really patriotic movements, when their party feeling
+occasionally sleeps for a month or two." Norwich is pre-eminently a town
+of churches, into the construction of which flint enters largely, it
+being dressed with great skill into small roughened cubical blocks.</p>
+
+<p><a name="p257" id="p257"><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">NORWICH CASTLE.</span></a></p>
+
+
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p257.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:110px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:640px; height:300px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>The great attraction of Norwich is the cathedral, which stands upon a
+low peninsula enclosed by a semicircular sweep of the river, much of the
+ground in this region having been originally a swamp. The cathedral is
+generally approached from its western side, where there is an open space
+in front of the Close called Tombland, upon which two gates open from
+it. These are St. Ethelbert's and the Erpingham gate. The latter,
+opposite the western front of the cathedral, is named for its builder,
+"old Sir Thomas Erpingham," whose "good white head," Shakespeare tells
+us, was to be seen on the field of Agincourt. The cathedral is a Norman
+structure, cruciform in plan, with an exceptionally long nave, an
+apsidal choir, and attached chapels. The earliest parts of it were begun
+in 1096, and when partially completed five years afterwards it was
+handed over to the care of the Benedictine monks. Thirty years later<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>
+the nave was added, but the cathedral was not completed until about
+1150. Twice it was seriously injured by fire, and it was not thoroughly
+restored for a century, when in 1278 it was again consecrated with great
+pomp, in the presence of Edward I. and his court, on Advent Sunday. The
+spire, which is one of its most conspicuous features, was added by
+Bishop Percy in the fourteenth century, though, having been seriously
+injured by lightning, it had to be replaced afterwards. At the same time
+the building was greatly altered, its roofs raised and vaulted, and
+repairs went on until 1536. Yet, with all the changes that were made in
+this famous cathedral, no other in England has managed to preserve its
+original plan so nearly undisturbed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 612px;">
+<a name="p258" id="p258"></a>
+<img src="images/p258.jpg" width="612" height="650" alt="NORWICH CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORWICH CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;">
+<a name="p259" id="p259"></a>
+<img src="images/p259.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="NORWICH CATHEDRAL&mdash;THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORWICH CATHEDRAL&mdash;THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Entering the nave from the westward, this grand apartment is found to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>
+extend two hundred and fifty feet, and to the intersection of the
+transepts comprises fourteen bays, three of them being included in the
+choir. The triforium is almost as lofty as the nave-arches, and the
+solidity of these, surmounted by the grandeur of the upper arcade, gives
+a magnificent aspect to the nave. Above is the fine vaulted roof, the
+elaborately carved bosses giving a series of scenes from sacred history
+extending from the Creation to the Last Judgment. Small chapels were
+originally erected against the organ-screen, one of them being dedicated
+to the young St. William, a Norfolk saint who in the twelfth century was
+tortured and crucified by some Jews. His body, clandestinely buried in a
+wood, was found, miracles were wrought, and it was translated to the
+cathedral. The Jews of Norwich were then attacked and plundered, and
+these outrages were renewed a century later. But times have fortunately
+changed since then. The choir extends to the eastern apse, and at the
+back of the altar recent alterations have exposed an interesting relic
+in a fragment of the original bishop's throne, an elevated chair of
+stone placed in the middle of the apse and looking westward. On either
+side are apsidal chapels. Among the monuments is that to Sir William
+Boleyn, grandfather to the unfortunate Anne Boleyn. He lived at
+Blickling, about thirteen miles from Norwich, where Anne is believed to
+have been born. Several bishops also lie in the cathedral, and among the
+later tombs is that of Dr. Moore, who died in 1779, and whose periwigged
+head is in grotesque juxta<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>position with a cherub making an ugly face
+and appearing to be drying his eyes with his shirt. The spire of Norwich
+Cathedral rises two hundred and eighty-seven feet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p260" id="p260"></a>
+<img src="images/p260.jpg" width="650" height="423" alt="NORWICH MARKET-PLACE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORWICH MARKET-PLACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Norwich Castle is a massive block of masonry crowning the summit of a
+mound. Who first built it is unknown, but he is said by popular
+tradition to sit buried in his chair and full armed deep down in the
+centre of this mound, and "ready for all contingencies." But the castle
+has degenerated into a jail, and the great square tower or keep,
+ninety-five feet square and seventy feet high, is the only part of the
+original structure remaining. It has been refaced with new stone, and
+the interior has also been completely changed. The moat is planted with
+trees, and on the outside slope the cattle-market is held every
+Saturday. Norwich has some historical structures. In its grammar school
+Nelson was a scholar, and his statue stands on the green. On the edge of
+Tombland stands the house of Sir John Falstaff, a brave soldier and
+friend of literature, whose memory is greatly prized in Norfolk, but
+whose name has been forgotten by many in the shadow of Shakespeare's
+"Fat Jack." The chief centre of the town, however, is the market-place,
+on the slope of a hill, where modernized buildings have replaced some of
+the more antique structures. Here stands the ancient Guildhall, which in
+1413 replaced the old Tolbooth where the market-dues were paid. Within
+is the sword surrendered to Nelson by Admiral Winthuysen at the battle
+of St. Vincent, and by him presented to the chief city of his native
+county of Norfolk. In the olden time<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> the glory of Norwich was the Duke
+of Norfolk's palace, but it was destroyed at the end of the seventeenth
+century by the then duke in a fit of anger because the mayor would not
+permit his troop of players to march through the town with trumpets
+blowing. Not a brick of it now stands, the site being covered with small
+houses. Norwich was formerly famous for its trade in woollens, the Dutch
+introducing them at the neighboring village of Worsted, whence the name.
+Now, the coal-mines have aided the spinning-jenny, but the worsteds are
+overshadowed by other Norwich manufactures. Colman's mustard-factories
+cover ten acres, and Barnard's ornamental iron-work from Norwich is
+world-renowned. Norwich also contains an enormous brewery, but in this
+the city is not singular, for what is a Briton without his beer?</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BURGHLEY HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p261" id="p261"></a>
+<img src="images/p261.jpg" width="650" height="377" alt="BURGHLEY HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BURGHLEY HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the banks of the Welland River, a short distance above Crowland, is
+Stamford, in Lincolnshire, near which is located the well-known Burghley
+House, the home of Lord Treasurer Cecil, whose history is referred to in
+the notice of Hatfield House. This mansion, which is a short distance
+south of Stamford, is now the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, William
+Allayne Cecil. It is said to have furnished the text for Lord Bacon's
+"Essay on Building," it having been completed but a short time
+previously. The plans of this famous house are still preserved in
+London. It is a parallelogram built around an open court, with a lofty
+square tower projecting from the western front, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> having octangular
+turrets at the angles. The northern (which is the main) front is divided
+into three compartments, and bears on the parapet 1587 as the date when
+the house was finished. Within the building a long corridor, commanding
+a view of the inner court, leads to a stone staircase which rises to the
+top of the structure and is peculiarly decorated. There is a fine
+chapel, and in an adjoining room was Giordano's renowned painting of
+"Seneca Dying in the Bath," which was eulogized in Prior's poems, he
+having seen it there, though it is now removed. One of the most
+interesting pictures in the gallery is that of Henry Cecil, the tenth
+Earl and the first Marquis of Exeter, his wife, and daughter. Tennyson
+has woven the romance of their marriage into a poem. Cecil, before
+coming into his title, was living in seclusion in Shropshire, and fell
+in love with a farmer's daughter. He married her under an assumed name,
+and only disclosed his true rank when, succeeding to his uncle's title
+and estates, he became the lord of Burghley and took her home to
+Burghley House. Tennyson tells how she received the disclosure:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Thus her heart rejoices greatly, till a gateway she discerns</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With armorial bearings stately, and beneath the gate she turns;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sees a mansion more majestic than all those she saw before:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Many a gallant gay domestic bows before him at the door.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And they speak in gentle murmur, when they answer to his call.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">While he treads with footstep firmer, leading on from hall to hall.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, while now she wonders blindly, nor the meaning can divine,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Proudly turns he round and kindly, 'All of this is mine and thine.'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here he lives in state and bounty, Lord of Burghley, fair and free,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not a lord in all the county is so great a lord as he.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All at once the color flushes her sweet face from brow to chin:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As it were with shame she blushes, and her spirit changed within.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then her countenance all over pale again as death did prove;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But he clasp'd her like a lover, and he cheer'd her soul with love."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The building has many attractive apartments, including a ball-room and
+Queen Elizabeth's chamber, but it is doubted whether the maiden queen
+ever visited it, though she did stay at Burghley's house in Stamford,
+and here made the celebrated speech to her old minister in which she
+said that his head and her purse could do anything. Burghley's eldest
+son, Thomas, was created Earl of Exeter, and his descendants are now in
+possession of the house. His younger son, Robert, as previously related,
+was made Earl of Salisbury, and his descendants hold Hatfield House. The
+apartments at Burghley are filled with historical portraits. The grand
+staircase on the southern side of the house is finer than the other, but
+is not so full of character. The gardens of Burghley were planned by
+"Capability Brown," the same who laid out Kew.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> He imperiously overruled
+King George III. in the gardening at Kew, and when he died the king is
+said to have exclaimed with a sigh of relief to the under-gardener,
+"Brown is dead; now you and I can do what we please here." Within St.
+Martin's Church in Stamford is the canopied tomb of the lord treasurer,
+constructed of alabaster, and bearing his effigy clad in armor, with the
+crimson robes of the Garter; it is surrounded with the tombs of his
+descendants. It was into Stamford that Nicholas Nickleby rode through
+the snowstorm, and the coach stopped at the George Inn, which was a
+popular hostelrie in the days of Charles II., as it still remains.</p>
+
+<p>North of Stamford, on the river Witham, is the interesting town of
+Grantham, containing the quaint grammar-school founded by Bishop Fox of
+Winchester in 1528 where Sir Isaac Newton was educated. It is recorded
+by tradition that his career here was not very brilliant as a scholar&mdash;a
+circumstance which may be told, if for nothing else, at least for the
+encouragement of some of the school-boys of a later generation.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>LINCOLN.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p264" id="p264"></a>
+<img src="images/p264.jpg" width="650" height="585" alt="LINCOLN CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LINCOLN CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 469px;">
+<a name="p265" id="p265"></a>
+<img src="images/p265.jpg" width="469" height="650" alt="&quot;BITS&quot; FROM LINCOLN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;BITS&quot; FROM LINCOLN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Continuing northward down the river Witham, we come to a point where the
+stream has carved in a limestone-capped plateau a magnificent valley,
+which, changing its course to the eastward, ultimately broadens on its
+route to the sea into a wide tract of fenland. Here, upon a grand site
+overlooking the marshes and the valley, stands the city of Lincoln, with
+its cathedral crowning the top of the hill, while the town-buildings
+spread down the slope to the riverbank at Brayford Pool, from which
+the Witham is navigable down to Boston, near the coast, and ultimately
+discharges into the Wash. The Pool is crowded with vessels and bordered
+by warehouses, and it receives the ancient Fosse Dyke Canal, which was
+dug by the Romans to connect the Witham with the more inland river
+Trent. This was the Roman colony of Lindum, from which the present name
+of Lincoln is derived, and the noble cathedral crowns the highest
+ground, known as Steep Hill. William the Conqueror conferred upon Bishop
+Remigius of Fecamp the see of Dorchester, and he founded in 1075 this
+celebrated cathedral, which, with its three noble towers and two
+transepts, is one of the finest in England. Approaching it from the
+town, at the foot of the hill is encountered the Stonebow, a Gothic
+gateway of the Tudor age, which serves as the guild-hall. The centre of
+the western front is the oldest part of Lincoln Cathedral, and the
+gateway facing it, and forming the chief entrance to the Close, is the
+Exchequer Gate, an impressive structure built in the reign of Edward
+III. The cathedral arcade and the lower parts of the two western<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> towers
+and the western doorway were built in the twelfth century. Subsequently
+an earthquake shattered the cathedral, and in the thirteenth century it
+was restored and extended by Bishop Hugh of Avelon, not being finished
+until 1315. The massive central tower is supported on four grand piers
+composed of twenty-four shafts, and here is hung the celebrated bell of
+Lincoln, "Great Tom," which was recast about fifty years ago, and weighs
+five and a half tons. The transepts have splendid rose windows,
+retaining the original stained glass. Lincoln's shrine was that of St.
+Hugh, and his choir is surmounted by remarkable vaulting, the eastern
+end of the church being extended into the Angel Choir, a beautiful
+specimen of Decorated Gothic, built in 1282 to accommodate the enormous
+concourse of pilgrims attracted by St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> Hugh's shrine, which stood in
+this part of the building. In the cathedral is the tomb of Katherine
+Swynford, wife of John of Gaunt. Adjoining the south-eastern transept
+are the cloisters and chapter-house. The most ingenious piece of work of
+the whole structure is the "stone beam," a bridge with a nearly flat
+arch, extending between the two western towers over the nave, composed
+of twenty-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>two stones, each eleven inches thick, and vibrating sensibly
+when stepped upon. There is a grand view from the towers over the
+neighboring country and far away down the Witham towards the sea. The
+exterior of the cathedral is one of the finest specimens of architecture
+in the kingdom, its porches, side-chapels, decorated doorways,
+sculptured capitals, windows, cloisters, and towers admirably
+illustrating every portion of the history of English architecture. Its
+interior length is four hundred and eighty-two feet, the great transept
+two hundred and fifty feet, and the lesser transept one hundred and
+seventy feet. The western towers are one hundred and eighty feet high,
+and the central tower two hundred and sixty feet, while the width of the
+cathedral's noble western front is one hundred and seventy-four feet.
+Upon the southern side of the hill, just below it, are the stately ruins
+of the Bishop's Palace, of which the tower has recently been restored.
+Bishop Hugh's ruined Great Hall is now overgrown with ivy, but the walls
+can be climbed to disclose a glorious view of the cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient Ermine Street of the Romans enters Lincoln through the best
+preserved piece of Roman masonry in England, the Newport Gate of two
+arches, where on either hand may be seen fragments of the old wall. Near
+the south-east corner of this originally walled area William the
+Conqueror built Lincoln Castle, with its gate facing the cathedral. The
+ruins are well preserved, and parts of the site are now occupied by the
+jail and court-house. Within this old castle King Stephen besieged the
+empress Maud, but though he captured it she escaped. Her partisans
+recaptured the place, and Stephen in the second siege was made a
+prisoner. It suffered many sieges in the troubled times afterwards. In
+the Civil War the townspeople supported the king, but being attacked
+they retreated to the castle and cathedral, which were stormed and taken
+by the Parliamentary army. Afterwards the castle was dismantled. One of
+the interesting remains in Lincoln is the "Jew's House," the home in the
+Hebrew quarter of a Jewess who was hanged for clipping coin in the reign
+of Edward I. But the noble cathedral is the crowning glory of this
+interesting old city, the massive structure, with its three surmounting
+towers standing on high, being visible for many miles across the country
+around.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>NOTTINGHAM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p267" id="p267"></a>
+<img src="images/p267.jpg" width="550" height="467" alt="NOTTINGHAM CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NOTTINGHAM CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We will now cross over the border from Lincoln into Nottinghamshire,
+and, seeking the valley of the Trent, find upon the steep brow of a
+cliff by the river the ancient castle of Nottingham, which is now
+surrounded by the busy machinery of the hosiery-weavers. When it was
+founded no one accurately knows, but it is believed to antedate the
+Roman occupation of the island. As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> long ago as the tenth century there
+was a bridge across the Trent at Snodengahame&mdash;meaning the "dwelling
+among the rocks"&mdash;as it was then called, and afterwards the town
+suffered from the Danes. It is also suffered during the troubled reign
+of King Stephen. The castle was built by one of the Peverils soon after
+the Norman Conquest, and was frequently the abode of kings. It was here
+that Roger Mortimer was seized prior to being tried and hanged in
+London. King David of Scotland and Owen Glendower of Wales were held
+prisoners in Nottingham Castle, and from it Richard III. advanced to
+meet his fate on Bosworth Field, while Charles I. set up his standard
+and gathered his army at Nottingham at the opening of the Civil Wars,
+the blowing down of the standard by a gale on Castle Hill being taken as
+ominous of the unfortunate termination of the conflict. The old castle,
+which has fallen into ruins, subsequently passed into possession of the
+Duke of Newcastle, who cleared away almost the whole of the ancient
+structure and built a house upon the site. The city was noted for its
+manufactures as early as the reign of King John, and the hand-knitting
+of stockings was introduced in the sixteenth century. Previously to that
+time hosiery had been cut out of cloth, with the seams sewed up the same
+as outer clothing. As early as 1589 a machine for weaving was invented,
+but failing to reap a profit from it, the inventor, a clergyman, took it
+to Paris, where he afterwards died broken-hearted. Ultimately, his
+apprentices brought the machines back to Nottingham, improved them, and
+prospered. Many improvements followed. Jedediah Strutt produced the
+"Derby ribbed hose;" then the warp-loom was invented in the last
+century, and the bobbin-traverse net in 1809. The knitting-machines have
+been steadily improved, and now hosiery-making is carried on in
+extensive factories that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> give an individuality to the town. The
+rapidity with which stockings are reeled off the machines is
+astonishing. An ordinary stocking is made in four pieces, which are
+afterwards sewed or knitted together by another machine. Some of the
+looms, however, knit the legs in one piece, and may be seen working off
+almost endless woollen tubes, which are afterwards divided into
+convenient lengths. Fancy hosiery is knitted according to patterns, the
+setting up of which requires great skill. Vast amounts of lace are
+woven, and in the factories female labor preponderates. The upper town
+of Nottingham, clustering around the castle on the river-crag, has a
+picturesque aspect from the valley below. Among the features of the
+lower town is the market-place, a triangular area of slightly over four
+acres, where the market is held every Saturday, and where once a year is
+also held that great event of Nottingham, the Michaelmas goose fair.
+Here also disport themselves at election-times the rougher element, who,
+from their propensity to bleat when expressing disapprobation, are known
+as the "Nottingham lambs," and who claim to be lineal descendants from
+that hero of the neighboring Sherwood Forest, Robin Hood.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SOUTHWELL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p268" id="p268"></a>
+<img src="images/p268.jpg" width="600" height="388" alt="SOUTHWELL MINSTER AND RUINS OF THE ARCHBISHOP&#39;S PALACE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SOUTHWELL MINSTER AND RUINS OF THE ARCHBISHOP&#39;S PALACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<a name="p269" id="p269"></a>
+<img src="images/p269.jpg" width="362" height="600" alt="THE NAVE, SOUTHWELL MINSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE NAVE, SOUTHWELL MINSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We will now go down the valley of the Trent below Nottingham, and,
+mounting the gentle hills that border Sherwood Forest, come to the
+Roman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> station, Ad Pontem, of which the Venerable Bede was the
+historian. Here Paulinus was baptized, and it was early made the site of
+an episcopal see. The name was Sudwell at the Norman Conquest, and then
+it became Southwell, and the noted minster was one of the favorite
+residences of the Archbishop of York. It is a quiet, old-fashioned
+place, with plenty of comfortable residences, and in a large churchyard
+on ground sloping away from the main street, with the ruins of the
+archbishop's palace near by, is Southwell Minster. There are few finer
+examples of a Norman building remaining in England, the three towers,
+nave, transepts, and chapter-house forming a majestic group. An enormous
+western window has been inserted by later architects, rather to the
+detriment of the gable, and this produces a singular effect. The
+interior of the minster is magnificent. The Norman nave is of eight bays
+with semicircular arches, surmounted by a triforium of rows of arches
+almost equal to those below, and rising from piers with clustered
+side-columns. It is nearly three-fourths the height of the lower stage,
+and this produces a grand effect. The flat roof is modern, it and the
+bells having been replaced after the church was burned in the last
+century. The ruins of the archiepiscopal palace, erected six hundred
+years ago, have been availed of in one portion for a dwelling-house.
+Wolsey built part of it, and beneath the battlemented wall enclosing the
+garden there was not long ago found the skeleton of a soldier in armor,
+a relic of the Civil Wars. The name of the town is derived from its
+wells. The South Well is a short distance outside the limits in a little
+park. The Holy Well, which was inside the minster, is now covered up.
+Lady Well was just outside the church-walls, but a clergy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>man fell into
+it one dark night and was drowned, and it too has been closed. St.
+Catherine's Well was surmounted by a chapel, and is in repute as a cure
+for rheumatism. The ancient inn of the Saracen's Head in Southwell, not
+far from the minster on the main street, witnessed the closing scene of
+the Civil War. After the battle of Naseby the Scotch had reached
+Southwell, and Montreville, an agent of Cardinal Mazarin, came there to
+negotiate on behalf of King Charles in 1646. The Scotch commissioners
+had rooms in the archiepiscopal palace, and Montreville lodged at the
+Saracen's Head. After the negotiations had proceeded for some time, the
+king in disguise quitted Oxford in April, and after a devious journey by
+way of Newark appeared at Montreville's lodgings on May 6th. On the
+south side of the inn was an apartment divided into a dining-room and
+bedroom, which the king occupied, and in the afternoon, after dining
+with the Scotch commissioners, he placed himself in their hands, and was
+sent a prisoner to their head-quarters. The canny Scots before leaving
+stripped the lead from the roof of the palace, and it afterwards fell
+into ruin, so that Cromwell, who arrived subsequently, found it
+uninhabitable, and then occupied the king's room at the Saracen's Head,
+his horses being stabled in Southwell Minster. Southwell since has had
+an uneventful history.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE DUKERIES.</h3>
+
+<p>Nor far away is the well-known Sherwood Forest, wherein in the olden
+time lived the famous forester and bandit Robin Hood. Roaming among its
+spreading oaks with his robber band, he was not infrequently a visitor
+to the bordering towns, sometimes for pleasure, but oftener for
+"business." Who Robin was, or exactly when he lived, no one seems to
+know. He is associated alike with the unsettled times of Kings John and
+Richard, with Henry V. and with Jack Cade, but so much mystery surrounds
+all reports of him that some do not hesitate to declare Robin Hood a
+myth. But whoever he was, his memory and exploits live in many a ballad
+sung along the banks of the Trent and in the towns and villages of
+Sherwood Forest. His abiding-place is now divided up into magnificent
+estates, the most famous of them being known as "The Dukeries." One of
+them, near Ollerton, is Thoresby Hall, the splendid home of the Earl of
+Manvers, a park that is ten miles in circumference. North of this is the
+stately seat of the Duke of Newcastle&mdash;Clumber Park&mdash;charmingly situated
+between Ollerton and Worksop. From the entrance-lodge a carriage-drive
+of over a mile through the well-wooded grounds leads up to the elegant
+yet homelike mansion. It is of modern construction, having been built in
+1770 and received important additions since. Before that time the park
+was a tract of wild woodland, but the then Duke of Newcastle improved
+it, and con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>structed an extensive lake, covering ninety acres, at a cost
+of $35,000. It was originally intended for a shooting-box, but this was
+elaborately extended. In the centre of the west front is a colonnade,
+and between the mansion and the lake are fine gardens ornamented by a
+large fountain. The owner of Clumber is the lineal representative of the
+family of Pelham-Clinton&mdash;which first appeared prominently in the reign
+of Edward I.&mdash;and is Henry Pelham Alexander Pelham-Clinton, sixth Duke
+of Newcastle. Clumber is rich in ornaments, among them being four
+ancient Roman altars, but the most striking feature is the full-rigged
+ship which with a consort rests upon the placid bosom of the lake.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p271" id="p271"></a>
+<img src="images/p271.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="CLUMBER HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLUMBER HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p272" id="p272"></a>
+<img src="images/p272.jpg" width="600" height="289" alt="WELBECK ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WELBECK ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Adjoining Clumber Park is the most celebrated of "The Dukeries," Welbeck
+Abbey, which is one of the remarkable estates of England, a place
+peculiar to itself. The mansion is about four miles from Worksop, and
+the surrounding park contains a grand display of fine old trees, beneath
+which roam extensive herds of deer. Welbeck Abbey of White Canons was
+founded in the reign of Henry II., and dedicated to St. James. After the
+dissolution it was granted to Richard Whalley, and subsequently passed
+into possession of Sir Charles Cavendish, a son of the famous Bess of
+Hardwicke, whose grandson converted the abbey into an elaborate mansion,
+leaving little of the original religious building standing. The present
+house was constructed in the seventeenth century, its old riding-house
+being completed in 1623, and William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, who
+built it, was noted as the most accomplished horseman of his time. For
+several generations Welbeck remained in possession of the Dukes of
+Newcastle, until in the last century an only daughter and the heiress of
+the abbey married William Bentinck, the Duke of Portland, thus carrying
+the estate over to that family, which now possesses it. The founder of
+this ducal house came over from Holland as a page of honor with King
+William III. The present owner, who has just succeeded to the title, is
+the sixth Duke of Portland. The chief feature of the original Welbeck,
+the old riding-house, remains, but is no longer used for that purpose.
+It is a grand hall, one hundred and seventy-seven feet long, with a
+massive open-work tim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>ber roof of admirable design. The mansion is full
+of fine apartments, many of them elaborately decorated, but it is not
+from these that the estate gets its present fame. The late Duke of
+Portland, who was unmarried, was an eccentric man, and he developed a
+talent for burrowing underground that made his house one of the most
+remarkable in England and consumed enormous sums of money. The libraries
+of Welbeck, five superb rooms opening into each other, a spacious hall
+adjoining, one hundred and fifty-nine feet long, the stables, large
+gardens, hothouses, lodges, and other apartments, are all underground.
+They have glass roofs of magnificent design. They are approached from
+and connected with the rest of the mansion by subterranean passages,
+and, being lofty rooms, the cost of this deep digging and of the
+necessary drainage and other adjuncts may be imagined. The new riding
+house, the finest in existence, and also underground, but lighted by an
+arched glass roof, is three hundred and seventy-nine by one hundred and
+six feet, and fifty feet high. It is elaborately ornamented, and at
+night is lighted by nearly eight thousand gas-jets. Near it are the
+extensive hunting-stables, coach-houses, and that marked feature of
+Welbeck, the covered "gallop," one thousand and seventy-two feet long,
+with large "hanging rooms" at either end: these too are covered with
+glass, so as to get their light from the top. The whole place abounds in
+subterranean apartments and passages, while above ground are extensive
+gardens and dairies. In the gardens are the peach-wall, one thousand
+feet long, a similar range of pine-houses, a fruit-arcade of ornamental
+iron arches stretching nearly a quarter of a mile, with apple trees
+trained on one side and pear trees on the other, and extensive beds of
+flowers and plants. To construct and maintain all this curious
+magnificence there are workshops on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> grand scale. This eccentric duke,
+who practically denied himself to the world, and for years devoted his
+time to carrying on these remarkable works at an enormous cost, employed
+over two thousand persons in burrowing out the bowels of the earth and
+making these grand yet strange apartments. When finished he alone could
+enjoy them, for Welbeck was for a long time a sealed book to the outer
+world. But the eccentric duke died, as all men must, and his successor
+opened Welbeck to view and to the astonishment of all who saw it. A few
+months ago the Prince of Wales and a noble company visited the strange
+yet magnificent structure, and then for the first time the amazed
+assemblage explored this underground palace in Sherwood Forest, and when
+their wonder was satisfied they turned on the myriads of gas-jets, and
+amid a blaze of artificial light indulged in a ball&mdash;an unwonted scene
+for the weird old abbey of the eccentric and solitary duke. Like the
+fairies and mermaids of old in their underground palaces, the prince and
+his friends at Welbeck right merrily</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Held their courtly revels down, down below."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Also in this neighborhood is Newstead Abbey, the ancient seat of the
+Byrons. It is about eleven miles from Nottingham, and was founded by the
+Augustinians in the time of Henry II. In 1540 it came into possession of
+Sir John Byron, and a century later was held for King Charles. The poet
+Byron's bedroom remains almost as he left it, and on the lawn is the
+monument to his favorite dog, "Boatswain." The abbey also contains
+several relics of Livingstone, the African explorer. Near it is Robin
+Hood's Cave, and the neighborhood is full of remains of the famous
+chieftain, such as his Hill and his Chair, and Fountain Dale where Robin
+encountered Friar Tuck.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>NEWARK.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p274" id="p274"></a>
+<img src="images/p274.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="FRONT OF NEWARK CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FRONT OF NEWARK CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p275" id="p275"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">NEWARK CASTLE AND DUNGEON.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p275.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:500px; height:190px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:240px; height:60px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:320px; height:20px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:20px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:375px; height:20px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:400px; height:20px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:425px; height:140px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:420px; height:170px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Descending again to the banks of the Trent, we come to the causeway
+which carries over the flat meadows the Great North Road, the Roman
+military route to the north of England, which made it necessary to build
+a castle to hold the keys to its passage across the river. We are told
+that Egbert built the earliest fortress here, but the Danes destroyed
+it. Leofric, Earl of Mercia, rebuilt it, and gave the castle the name of
+the "New Work." But it too fell into decay, and in 1123 the present
+castle was built, which though much altered and afterwards sadly ruined,
+has come down to the present time. It was here that, after his army was
+swamped in the Wash, King John died, some say by poison, but the prosaic
+historian attributes the sad result to over-indulgence in "unripe
+peaches and new beer." In the Civil War it was a royal stronghold and
+sent King Charles large numbers of recruits. Then it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> besieged by
+Cromwell, but stoutly resisted, and Prince Rupert by some brilliant
+man&oelig;uvres relieved it. Finally, the king sought refuge within its
+walls after the defeat at Naseby, and here he was besieged by the Scotch
+until his voluntary surrender to them at Southwell, when two days
+afterwards, by his order, Newark capitulated to his captors. The
+Parliamentary forces afterwards dismantled the castle, and it fell into
+decay, but it has recently been restored as well as possible, and the
+site converted into a public garden. Within the town of Newark are
+several objects of interest. At the Saracen's Head Inn, which has
+existed from the time of Edward III., Sir Walter Scott tells us that
+Jeanie Deans slept on her journey from Midlothian to London. The most
+striking part of the town is the market-square, which is very large, and
+is surrounded by old and interesting houses, several of them projecting
+completely over the footwalks, and having the front walls supported upon
+columns&mdash;a most picturesque arrangement. One of these old houses has
+windows in continuous rows in the upper stories, having between them
+wooden beams and figures moulded in plaster. Through the openings
+between these old houses can be seen the church, which is one of the
+finest parish churches in this district, so celebrated for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> the
+magnificence of its religious houses. Surmounting its Early English
+tower is a spire of later date. The plan is cruciform, but with very
+short transepts, not extending beyond the aisles, which are wide and
+stretch the entire length of the church. There is a fine roof of carved
+oak, and some of the stained glass and interior paintings are highly
+prized. It was at Newark that Thomas Magnus lived and founded the
+grammar-school at which the antiquarian Dr. Stukeley was educated, and
+afterwards the famous Warburton, who became Bishop of Gloucester.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="author"><span class="caption">NEWARK CHURCH, LOOKING FROM THE NORTH.</span></p>
+<p><a name="p276-2" id="p276-2"></a></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p276-2.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:320px; height:110px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:280px;"> </div>
+
+<p>In Newark, about three hundred years ago, there was a tavern called the
+"Talbot Arms," named in honor of the Earl of Shrewsbury, whose countess
+was Mary, daughter of the famous Bess of Hardwicke by her second
+husband, Sir William Cavendish. Between the Talbots and the neighboring
+family of Stanhopes at Shelford there was a feud, which resulted in the
+Stanhopes defacing the tavern-sign. This was not taken notice of by the
+Earl of Shrewsbury, but the quarrel was assumed by the imperious
+countess and her brother, Sir Charles Cavendish. They despatched a
+messenger to Sir Thomas Stanhope, accusing him and his son of the
+insult, and declaring him a "reprobate and his son John a rascal." Then
+a few days later they sent a formal defiance: the Stanhopes avoided a
+duel as long as possible until they began to be posted as cowards, and
+then, having gone to London, whither Cavendish followed them, a duel was
+arranged with the younger Stanhope at Lambeth Bridge. They met after
+several delays, when it was found that Stanhope had his doublet so
+thickly quilted as to be almost impenetrable to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> sword-thrust. Then
+there was a new dispute, and it was proposed they should fight in their
+shirts, but this Stanhope declined, pleading a cold. Cavendish offered
+to lend him a waistcoat, but this too was declined; then Cavendish
+waived all objections to the doublet and proposed to fight anyhow, but
+the seconds interposed, and the duel was put off. Stanhope was then
+again posted as a coward, and he and his adherents were hustled in the
+streets of London. A few days later Stanhope and his party were attacked
+in Fleet Street by the Talbots, and one of the former faction mortally
+wounded. The feud went on six years, when one day, Cavendish, riding
+near his home in Nottinghamshire with three attendants, was attacked by
+Stanhope and twenty horsemen. He fought bravely, and was badly wounded,
+but killed four and wounded two others of his opponents, when,
+reinforcements appearing, the Stanhope party fled, leaving six horses
+and nearly all their hats and weapons behind them. But all feuds have an
+end, and this one ultimately exhausted itself, the families within a
+century being united in marriage.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;">
+<a name="p276-1" id="p276-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p276-1.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="MARKET-SQUARE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET-SQUARE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>HULL AND BEVERLEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p277" id="p277"></a>
+<img src="images/p277.jpg" width="600" height="336" alt="THE HUMBER AT HULL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE HUMBER AT HULL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p278-2" id="p278-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p278-2.jpg" width="450" height="436" alt="ENTRANCE-GATE, BEVERLEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE-GATE, BEVERLEY.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Following the Trent down to the Humber, and turning towards the sea, we
+come to the noted seaport of Hull, or, as it is best known in those
+parts, Kingston-upon-Hull. While not possessing great attractions for
+the ordinary tourist, yet Hull ranks as the third seaport of England,
+being second only to London and Liverpool. It is the great
+packet-station for the north of Europe, with steam lines leading to
+Holland, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Russia, and the Baltic, most of the
+English trade with those countries being centred at Hull. It is a town
+of extreme activity, its docks being all the time crowded with shipping,
+and its location, practically upon an island, with the river Humber on
+the south, the river Hull upon the east, and docks upon the northern and
+western sides, giving it every maritime convenience. The docks, though
+inferior to those of Liverpool, are the chief feature of the town. The
+Hull River itself forms a natural dock about a mile and a half long, and
+from this a chain of other docks leads through the warehouses and the
+town to the Humber. Hull possesses the Trinity House, one of the three
+ancient establishments in England&mdash;the others being at London and
+Newcastle&mdash;which were founded first as a religious fraternity in the
+fourteenth century, and became afterwards establishments for the relief
+of distressed and decayed seamen and their families. The present Trinity
+House building was erected in the last century. The chief ornament of
+Hull is the Wilberforce Monument, a pillar of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> sandstone seventy-two
+feet high, erected about a half century ago, and surmounted by a statue
+of the celebrated philanthropist. He was born on High Street August 24,
+1759, this being the most important thoroughfare in ancient Hull, but
+now a narrow and inconvenient lane following the right bank of the Hull
+River. Here were in former days the houses of the great Hull merchants,
+and the Wilberforce House is about halfway down the street. It is a
+curious specimen of brickwork, of a style said to have been imported
+from Flanders in the reign of William and Mary. It is a low, broad house
+with a surmounting tower over the doorway. Hull has little else of
+interest in the way of buildings. Its Holy Trinity Church, in the
+market-place, is the largest parish church in England, having recently
+been thoroughly restored, and the Town Hall, built in the Italian style,
+with a clock-tower, is its finest edifice of modern construction.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p278-1" id="p278-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p278-1.jpg" width="500" height="413" alt="HOUSE WHERE WILBERFORCE WAS BORN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HOUSE WHERE WILBERFORCE WAS BORN.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>We have now come into Yorkshire, and a few minutes' ride northward by
+railway along the valley of the Hull River brings the visitor to
+Beverley, an old-fashioned Yorkshire town of considerable antiquity,
+eight miles from the seaport. This was anciently a walled town, but of
+the entrance-gates only one survives, the North Bar, of the time of
+Edward III. It is a good specimen of brick architecture, with mouldings
+and niches upon the surface and battlements at the top. This is a
+favorite old town for the retired merchant and tradesman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> who wish to
+pass the declining years of life in quiet, and it contains many ancient
+buildings of interest. Several of these are clustered around the
+picturesque market-square, which is an enclosure of about four acres,
+and contains a quaint cross, a relic of the time when it was customary
+to build market-crosses. These ancient crosses, which were practically
+canopies erected over a raised platform, were generally used as pulpits
+by the preachers when conducting religious services in the open air.
+Sometimes they were memorials of the dead. We are told that there were
+formerly five thousand of these crosses of various kinds in England, but
+most of them were destroyed in the Civil Wars. At these old crosses
+proclamations used to be read and tolls collected from the
+market-people. The covered market-cross at Beverley was one of the last
+that was erected. The name of this interesting town is said to be
+derived from Beaver Lake, the site having at one time been surrounded by
+lakes that were formed by the overflowing of the Humber, in which
+beavers lived in great numbers. The Beverley Minster is an attractive
+Gothic church, and from the tops of its towers there is an excellent
+view over the rich and almost level valley through which the Hull River
+flows. Leconfield Castle, in the suburbs, was an ancient residence of
+the Percys, of which the moat alone remains.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p279" id="p279"></a>
+<img src="images/p279.jpg" width="500" height="399" alt="MARKET-SQUARE, BEVERLEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET-SQUARE, BEVERLEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>SHEFFIELD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p280" id="p280"></a>
+<img src="images/p280.jpg" width="550" height="441" alt="MANOR-HOUSE, SHEFFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MANOR-HOUSE, SHEFFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us now ascend the estuary of the Humber, and, proceeding up its
+numerous tributaries, seek out various places of interest in the West
+Riding of Yorkshire. And first, ascending the river Don, we come to that
+great manufacturing centre of the "Black Country," sacred to coal and
+iron, Sheffield. Murray's <i>Guide</i> tells us that while Sheffield is one
+of the largest and most important towns in Yorkshire, it is "beyond all
+question the blackest, dirtiest, and least<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> respectable." Horace Walpole
+in the last century wrote that Sheffield is "one of the foulest towns in
+England in the most charming situation." It is a crowded city, with
+narrow and badly-arranged streets, having few handsome public buildings,
+but bristling with countless tall chimneys belching forth clouds of
+heavy smoke that hang like a pall over the place. The Don and its
+tributaries have their beds defiled, and altogether the smoky city is in
+unpleasant contrast with the beauty of the surrounding country. But,
+unfortunately, an omelette cannot be made without breaking eggs, nor can
+Sheffield make cutlery without smoke and bad odors, all of which have
+amazingly multiplied within the present century, its population having
+grown from forty-five thousand in 1801 to over three hundred thousand
+now. It stands at the confluence of the rivers Don and Sheaf, its name
+being connected with the latter. Three smaller streams join them within
+the city and are utilized for water-power. The factories spread over the
+lowlands of the Don valley, and mount up its western slopes towards the
+moorlands that stretch away to Derbyshire; it is therefore as hilly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> as
+it is grimy. Sheffield at the time of the Norman Conquest was the manor
+of Hallam, which has passed through various families, until, in the
+seventeenth century, it became by marriage the property of the Duke of
+Norfolk. The present duke is lord of the manor of Sheffield, and derives
+a large income from his vast estates there. Sheffield Castle once stood
+at the confluence of the two rivers, but all traces of it have
+disappeared. The manor-house, which has been restored, dates from the
+time of Henry VIII. It is three stories high, and a turret staircase
+leads from floor to floor, and finally out upon the flat roof.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p281" id="p281"></a>
+<img src="images/p281.jpg" width="600" height="585" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE CUTLERS&#39; HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE CUTLERS&#39; HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We are told that Sheffield manufactures of metals began in the days of
+the Romans, and also that Sheffield-made arrows fell thickly at Crecy
+and Agincourt. Richmond used them with effect at Bosworth Field, and in
+the sixteenth century we read of Sheffield knives and whittles. Almost
+the only ancient building of any note the city has is the parish church,
+but it is so much patched and altered that there is difficulty in
+distinguishing the newer from the older parts. The chief among the
+modern buildings is the Cutlers' Hall, a Grecian structure erected for
+the Cutlers Company in 1833, and enlarged a few years ago by the
+addition of a handsome apartment. This company, the autocrats of
+Sheffield, was founded in 1624 by act of Parliament with two express
+objects&mdash;to keep a check upon the number of apprentices and to examine
+into the quality of Sheffield wares, all of which were to be stamped
+with the warranty of their excellence. But recently the restrictive
+powers of this company have been swept away, and it is now little more
+than a grantor of trade-marks and an excuse for an annual banquet.
+Sheffield has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> extensive markets and parks, and the Duke of Norfolk is
+conspicuous in his gifts of this character to the city; but overtopping
+all else are the enormous works, which make everything into which iron
+and steel can be converted, from armor-plating and railway-rails down to
+the most delicate springs and highly-tempered cutlery. Their products go
+to every part of the world, and are of enormous value and importance.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>WAKEFIELD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p282" id="p282"></a>
+<img src="images/p282.jpg" width="500" height="424" alt="EDWARD IV.&#39;S CHAPEL, WAKEFIELD BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EDWARD IV.&#39;S CHAPEL, WAKEFIELD BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p283" id="p283"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p283.jpg" width="450" height="379" alt="WAKEFIELD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WAKEFIELD.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Upon the Calder, another tributary of the Humber, northward of the Don,
+is the town of Wakefield, which, until the recent great growth of Leeds,
+was the head-quarters of the Yorkshire clothing-trade. It was here that
+in the Wars of the Roses the battle of Wakefield was fought on the
+closing day of the year 1460. The Duke of York wished to remain at
+Wakefield on the defensive against Queen Margaret's Lancastrian army of
+twenty thousand men, for his forces were barely one-fourth that number.
+The Earl of Salisbury, however, prevailed on him to advance to meet the
+queen, and he probably had no idea of the strength she had to oppose
+him. The duke was soon cut off, and was among the first to fall, his
+head having afterwards been put on the Micklegate bar at York. Scenes of
+great barbarity followed: the Duke of York's son, the Earl of Rutland,
+was murdered with shocking cruelty after the battle on Wakefield Bridge.
+Young Rutland's brother, afterwards Edward IV., erected a chapel on the
+bridge on the spot where he was slain, in order that prayer might be
+constantly said in it for the repose of the souls of the followers of
+the White Rose who were slain in the battle. It covers thirty by
+twenty-four feet, and has recently been restored by a successor of
+Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield." Near the bridge the spot is pointed
+out where the Duke of York<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> was killed, now marked by two willows. There
+is a fine old three-gabled house in Wakefield which was built about the
+same date as the battle was fought, and is now divided into small shops.
+It is a good specimen of the ancient black-and-white timbered house,
+though the carved work on the front has been considerably defaced. It
+stands in the Kirkgate, which runs down to the Calder, and is known
+locally as the "Six Chimblies."</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h3>LEEDS.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p283-1" id="p283-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p283-1.jpg" width="450" height="340" alt="BRIGGATE, LOOKING NORTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRIGGATE, LOOKING NORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About nine miles north of Wakefield is the great commercial capital of
+Yorkshire and centre of the cloth-trade. Leeds, built in the valley of
+the river Aire. Twelve hundred years ago this region, embracing the
+valleys of the Aire and the Calder, was the independent kingdom of
+Loidis. It was soon overrun and conquered, however, by the Anglian
+hosts, and ultimately the conquerors built here the monastery that in
+Bede's time was presided over by the abbot Thrydwulf. This stood on the
+site of the present parish church, and in the eighth century it was
+called "the monastery at Leeta." It stood at the crossing of two
+important Roman roads in the midst of a forest. This was the beginning
+of the great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> city, for soon a hamlet gathered around the monastery,
+though long since the woods, and indeed all green things, were driven
+away from Leeds. The village was laid waste by William the Conqueror,
+and at the time of the Domesday Book it was one of one hundred and fifty
+manors held by Baron Ilbert de Lacy, whose possessions stretched halfway
+across Yorkshire. He built a castle at Leeds, which was afterwards a
+prison of Richard II., but has long since disappeared. In 1530, Leland
+described Leeds as "a pretty market-town, as large as Bradford, but not
+so quick as it." Charles I. incorporated it, and the cloth-market was
+then of some importance. In the Civil War it was taken by the Royalists,
+and afterwards retaken by Fairfax for the Parliament in a short, sharp
+struggle, in which a clergyman named Scholfield distinguished himself by
+his valor, and "by his triumphant psalm-singing" as work after work was
+captured from the enemy. Flemish workmen brought cloth-making into this
+part of Yorkshire as early as the reign of Edward III., and two
+centuries ago the cloth-makers prospered so much that they held a market
+twice a week at Leeds on a long, narrow bridge crossing the Aire. They
+laid their cloth on the battlements of the bridge and on benches below,
+and the country clothiers could buy for four cents from the innkeepers
+"a pot of ale, a noggin of porridge, and a trencher of boiled or roast
+beef." This substantial supply was known as the "brigg (bridge)-shot,"
+and from the bridge ran the street known as the Briggate, which has
+since developed into one of the finest avenues of the city.</p>
+
+<p><a name="p284" id="p284"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+
+<img src="images/p284.jpg" width="450" height="340" alt="ST JOHN&#39;S CHURCH" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST JOHN&#39;S CHURCH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leeds began to grow in the last century, when it became the chief mart
+of the woollen clothiers, while the worsted-trade gathered about
+Bradford. These still remain the centres of the two great divisions of
+the woollen industry, which is the characteristic business of Yorkshire.
+The factories began then to appear at Leeds, and in the present century
+the city has made astonishing advances, growing from fifty-three
+thousand population in 1801 until it exceeds three hundred thousand now.
+The great cloth-mart to-day is for miles a region of tall chimneys and
+barrack-like edifices, within<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> which steadily roars machinery that
+represents some of the most ingenious skill of the human race. Within
+this hive of busy industry there still linger some memorials of the past
+among its hundreds of cloth-mills. Turning out of the broad Briggate
+into the quiet street of St. John, we come to the church built there by
+the piety of the wealthy clothier John Harrison, and consecrated in
+1634. St. John's Church, which he built and presented to the town
+because the older parish church could scarce hold half the inhabitants,
+consists of a long nave and chancel, with a south aisle. It is of Gothic
+architecture, and much of the ancient woodwork, including the pulpit,
+remains. Arabesques moulded in white plaster fill the panels between the
+main roof-beams. This interesting church has undergone little historical
+change excepting the recent rebuilding of the tower. John Harrison is
+entombed in the church. The old parish church in Kirkgate has been
+within a few years entirely rebuilt. The other churches of Leeds, like
+this one, are all modern, and it also has an imposing Town Hall, opened
+by the queen in 1858, in which are held the annual musical festivals,
+which have attained much importance. A statue of the Duke of Wellington
+stands in the open square in front. The two Cloth Halls of Leeds, the
+Mixed Cloth Hall and the White Cloth Hall, where the business of selling
+was at first carried on, are now little used, the trade being conducted
+directly between the manufacturer and the clothier. Some of the mills
+are of enormous size, and they include every operation from the raw
+material to the finished fabric. But, with all their ingenious
+machinery, the cloth-weavers have not yet been able to supersede the use
+of the teasel, by which the loose fibres of wool are raised to the
+surface to form, when cut and sheared, the pile or nap. These teasels,
+which are largely grown in Yorkshire, are fastened into a cylinder, and
+at least three thousand of them will be consumed in "teasling" a piece
+of cloth forty yards long.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BOLTON ABBEY.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p286-2" id="p286-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p286-2.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="THE CHURCHYARD, BOLTON ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHURCHYARD, BOLTON ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p286-1" id="p286-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 333px;">
+<img src="images/p286-1.jpg" width="333" height="450" alt="GATEWAY IN THE PRIORY, BOLTON ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY IN THE PRIORY, BOLTON ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+<p>North of the valley of the Aire is the valley of the Wharfe River, and,
+following that pleasant stream a short distance up, we come to Rumbald's
+Moor and the water-cure establishments of the town of Ilkley, which is
+an array of villas and terraces spreading up the hillside from the
+southern bank of the river. The neighborhood is full of attractive
+rock-and river-scenery. In the suburbs is the palace of Ben Rhydding,
+built in the Scottish baronial style, with the Cow and Calf Rocks
+overhanging the adjacent park. The Panorama Rock also commands a wide
+prospect, while Rumbald's Moor itself is elevated over thirteen hundred
+feet. A few miles from Ilkley are the celebrated ruins of Bolton Abbey,
+standing on a patch of open ground, around which the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> Wharfe curves, but
+with much woods clustering near the ruins and on the river-bank. Bolton
+stands in a deep valley, and on the opposite side of the river rises the
+steep rock of Simon's Seat, sixteen hundred feet high. The architecture
+of the abbey is of various styles, the west front coming down to us from
+the reign of Henry VIII., while its gateway is much older. There is no
+south aisle to the abbey, and at present the nave and north aisle are
+roofed in and serve as the parish church. The east end of this aisle is
+divided from the rest by an ancient wooden screen so as to form a
+chapel, and beneath this is the vault where the former owners of
+Bolton&mdash;the Claphams and Mauleverers&mdash;were buried. Some years ago, when
+the floor was being repaired, their coffins were found standing upright,
+whereof the poet tells us:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Through the chinks in the fractured floor</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Look down and see a grisly sight&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A vault where the bodies are buried upright</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There, face by face and hand by hand.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Claphams and Mauleverers stand."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The ruins of the north transept are in fair preservation, and the choir
+has a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> beautiful arcade, while through the openings beneath there is a
+charming view of the green-bordered river and of the hills beyond.
+Bolton Hall, which was the ancient gateway of the abbey, is opposite its
+western front, and is one of the favorite homes in the shooting season
+of the Duke of Devonshire, its owner.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p287" id="p287"></a>
+<img src="images/p287.jpg" width="650" height="313" alt="THE STRID." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE STRID.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A pleasant walk of two miles along the Wharfe brings us to the famous
+Strid, where the river is hemmed in between ledges of rock, and the
+scene of the rushing waters is very fine, especially after a rain.
+Beautiful paths wind along the hillsides and through the woods, and
+here, where the ruins of Bardon Tower rise high above the valley, is a
+favorite resort of artists. At the most contracted part of the rocky
+river-passage the water rushes through a narrow trench cut out for about
+sixty yards length, within which distance it falls ten feet. The noise
+here is almost deafening, and at the narrowest part the distance across
+is barely five feet. It looks easy to jump over, but from the peculiar
+position of the slippery rocks and the confusing noise of the rushing
+water it is a dangerous leap.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"This striding-place is called 'the Strid.'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A name which it took of yore.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A thousand years hath it borne that name,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And shall a thousand more."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was here that young Romilly, the "Boy of Egremont," was drowned
+several centuries ago, the story of his death being told by Wordsworth
+in his poem of "The Force of Prayer." He had been ranging through Bardon
+Wood, holding a greyhound in a leash, and tried to leap across the
+Strid:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"He sprang in glee; for what cared he,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That the river was strong and the rocks were steep?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But the greyhound in the leash hung back,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And checked him in his leap.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The boy is in the arms of Wharfe,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And strangled by a merciless force;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For nevermore was young Romilly seen</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Till he rose a lifeless corse."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is said that his disconsolate mother built Bolton Abbey to
+commemorate the death of her only son, and placed it in one of the most
+picturesque spots in England.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>RIPON AND FOUNTAINS.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 387px;">
+<a name="p288" id="p288"></a>
+<img src="images/p288.jpg" width="387" height="500" alt="RIPON MINSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RIPON MINSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="caption">STUDLEY ROYAL PARK.</span><a name="p289" id="p289"></a></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p289.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:220px; height:233px;"> </div>
+
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:250px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Proceeding still farther northward from the charming vale of Wharfe, we
+come to the valley of the Ure, which flows into the Ouse, a main
+tributary of the Humber, and to the famous cathedral-town of Ripon. This
+is a place of venerable antiquity, for it has been over twelve centuries
+since a band of Scotch monks came from Melrose to establish a monastery
+on the sloping headland above the Ure. A portion of the ancient church
+then founded is incorporated in the present Ripon Minster, which was
+built seven centuries ago. It was burned and partly injured by the
+Scotch in the fourteenth century, and subsequently the central tower and
+greater part of the nave were rebuilt. It has recently been entirely
+restored. The cathedral consists of a nave, with aisles extending the
+full width of the western front, and rather broad for its length; the
+transepts are short. Parallel to the choir on the southern side is a
+chapter-house. It is one of the smallest cathedrals in England, being
+less than two hundred and ninety feet long, and other buildings so
+encompass it as to prevent a good near view. There is an ample
+churchyard, but the shrine of St. Wilfrid, the founder, whose relics
+were the great treasure of the church, has long since disappeared.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> It
+appears that in ancient times there was great quarrelling over the
+possession of his bones, and that Archbishop Odo, declaring his grave to
+be neglected, carried them off to Canterbury, but after much disputing a
+small portion of the saint's remains were restored to Ripon. Beneath the
+corner of the nave is the singular crypt known as Wilfrid's Needle. A
+long passage leads to a cell from which a narrow window opens into
+another passage. Through this window we are told that women whose virtue
+was doubted were made to crawl, and if they stuck by the way were
+adjudged guilty. This is the oldest part of the church, and is regarded
+as the most perfect existing relic of the earliest age of Christianity
+in Yorkshire. The cathedral contains some interesting monuments, one of
+which demonstrates that epitaph-writing flourished in times agone at
+Ripon. It commemorates, as "a faint emblem of his refined taste,"
+William Weddell of Newby, "in whom every virtue that ennobles the human
+mind was united with every elegance that adorns it."</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 463px;">
+<a name="p290" id="p290"></a>
+<img src="images/p290.jpg" width="463" height="600" alt="THE TRANSEPT, FOUNTAINS ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TRANSEPT, FOUNTAINS ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the neighborhood of Ripon is the world-renowned Fountains Abbey, of
+which the remains are in excellent preservation, and stand in a
+beautiful situation on the verge of the fine estate of the Marquis of
+Ripon, Studley Royal. The gates of this park are about two miles from
+Ripon, the road winding among the trees, beneath which herds of deer are
+browsing, and leading up to the mansion, in front of which is an
+attractive scene. The little river Skell, on its way to the Ure, emerges
+from a glen, and is banked up to form a lake, from which it tumbles over
+a pretty cascade. The steep bank opposite is covered with trees. John
+Aislabie, who had been chancellor of the exchequer, laid out this park
+in 1720,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> and such repute did his ornamental works attain that Studley
+was regarded as the most embellished spot in the North of England.
+Ultimately, through heiresses, it passed into the hands of the present
+owner. The pleasure-grounds were laid out in the Dutch style then in
+vogue, and the slopes of the valley were terraced, planted with
+evergreens, and adorned with statues. Modern landscape-gardening has
+somewhat varied the details, but the original design remains. In the
+gardens are the Octagon Tower, perched upon a commanding knoll, the
+Temple of Piety, near the water-side, and an arbor known as Anne
+Boleyn's Seat, which commands a superb view over Fountains Dale. Let us
+enter this pretty glen, which gradually narrows, becomes more abrupt and
+rocky, and as we go along the Skell leads us from the woods out upon a
+level grassy meadow, at the end of which stand the gray ruins of the
+famous Cistercian abbey. The buildings spread completely across the glen
+to its craggy sides on either hand. On the right there is only room for
+a road to pass between the transept and the limestone rock which rears
+on high the trees rooted in its crannies, whose branches almost brush
+the abbey's stately tower. On the other side is the little river, with
+the conventual buildings carried across it in more than one place, the
+water flowing through a vaulted tunnel. These buildings extend to the
+bases of the opposite crags. The ruins are of great size, and it does
+not take much imagination to restore the glen to its aspect when the
+abbey was in full glory seven or eight hundred years ago. Its founders
+came hither almost as exiles from York, and began building the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> abbey in
+the twelfth century, but it was barely completed when Henry VIII. forced
+the dissolution of the monasteries. It was very rich, and furnished rare
+plunder when the monks were compelled to leave it. The close or
+immediate grounds of the abbey contained about eighty acres, entered by
+a gate-house to the westward of the church, the ruins of which can still
+be seen. Near by is an old mill alongside the Skell, and a picturesque
+bridge crosses the stream, while on a neighboring knoll are some ancient
+yews which are believed to have sheltered the earliest settlers, and are
+called the "Seven Sisters." But, unfortunately, only two now remain,
+gnarled and twisted, with decaying trunks and falling limbs&mdash;ruins in
+fact that are as venerable as Fountains Abbey itself. Botanists say they
+are twelve hundred years old, and that they were full-grown trees when
+the exiles from York first encamped alongside the Skell.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 504px;">
+<a name="p291" id="p291"></a>
+<img src="images/p291.jpg" width="504" height="650" alt="FOUNTAINS TOWER AND CRYPT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FOUNTAINS TOWER AND CRYPT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p292" id="p292"></a>
+<img src="images/p292.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="FOUNTAINS HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FOUNTAINS HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Entering the close, the ruins of the abbey church are seen in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> better
+preservation than the other buildings. The roof is gone, for its
+woodwork was used to melt down the lead by zealous Reformers in the
+sixteenth century, and green grass has replaced the pavement. The ruins
+disclose a noble temple, the tower rising one hundred and sixty-eight
+feet. In the eastern transept is the beautiful "Chapel of the Nine
+Altars" with its tall and slender columns, some of the clustering shafts
+having fallen. For some distance southward and eastward from the church
+extend the ruins of the other convent-buildings. In former times they
+were used as a stone-quarry for the neighborhood, many of the walls
+being levelled to the ground, but since the last century they have been
+scrupulously preserved. The plan is readily traced, for excavations have
+been made to better display the ruins. South of the nave of the church
+was the cloister-court. On one side was the transept and chapter-house,
+and on the other a long corridor supporting the dormitory. This was one
+hundred yards long, extending across the river, and abutting against the
+crags on the other side. South of the cloister-court was the refectory
+and other apartments. To the eastward was a group of buildings
+terminating in a grand house for the abbot, which also bridged the
+river. All<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> these are now in picturesque ruin, the long corridor, with
+its vaulted roof supported by a central row of columns with broad
+arches, being considered one of the most impressive religious remains in
+England. One of the chief uses to which the Fountains Abbey stone-quarry
+was devoted was the building, in the reign of James I., of a fine
+Jacobean mansion as the residence for its then owner, Sir Stephen
+Proctor. This is Fountains Hall, an elaborate structure of that period
+which stands near the abbey gateway, and to a great extent atones, by
+its quaint attractiveness, for the vandalism that despoiled the abbey to
+furnish materials for its construction. In fact, the mournful reflection
+is always uppermost in viewing the remains of this famous place that it
+would have been a grand old ruin could it have been preserved, but the
+spoilers who plundered it for their own profit are said to have
+discovered, in the fleeting character of the riches thus obtained, that
+ill-gotten gains never prosper.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>RICHMOND CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p293" id="p293"></a>
+<img src="images/p293.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="RICHMOND CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RICHMOND CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Proceeding northward from Ripon, and crossing over into the valley of
+the river Swale, we reach one of the most picturesquely located towns of
+England&mdash;Richmond, whose great castle is among the best English remains
+of the Norman era. The river flows over a broken and rocky bed around
+the base of a cliff, and crowning the precipice above is the great
+castle, magnificent even in decay. It was founded in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> reign of
+William the Conqueror by Alan the Red, who was created Earl of Richmond,
+and it covers a space of about five acres on a rock projecting over the
+river, the prominent tower of the venerable keep being surrounded by
+walls and buildings. A lane leads up from the market-place of the town
+to the castle-gate, alongside of which are Robin Hood's Tower and the
+Golden Tower, the latter named from a tradition of a treasure being once
+found there. The Scolland's Hall, a fine specimen of Norman work,
+adjoins this tower. The keep is one hundred feet high and furnished with
+walls eleven feet thick, time having had little effect upon its noble
+structure, one of the most perfect Norman keep-towers remaining in
+England. There is a grand view from the battlements over the romantic
+valley of the Swale. In the village is an old gray tower, the only
+remains of a Franciscan monastery founded in the thirteenth century, and
+the ruins of Easby Abbey, dating from the twelfth century, are not far
+away; its granary is still in use. The valley of the Swale may be
+pursued for a long distance, furnishing constant displays of romantic
+scenery, or, if that is preferred, excellent trout-fishing.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>YORK.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p294" id="p294"></a>
+<img src="images/p294.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="THE MULTANGULAR TOWER AND ST. MARY&#39;S ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MULTANGULAR TOWER AND ST. MARY&#39;S ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the high hills in the neighborhood of Fountains Dale there is a
+magnificent view over the plain of York, and we will now proceed down
+the valley of the Ouse to the venerable city that the Romans called
+Eboracum, and which is the capital of a county exceeding in extent many
+kingdoms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> and principalities of Europe. This ancient British stronghold
+has given its name to the metropolis of the New World, but the modern
+Babylon on the Hudson has far outstripped the little city on the equally
+diminutive Ouse. It was Ebrane, the king of the Brigantes, who is said
+to have founded York, but so long ago that he is believed a myth.
+Whatever its origin, a settlement was there before the Christian era,
+but nothing certain is known of it beyond the fact that it existed when
+the Romans invaded Britain and captured York, with other strongholds, in
+the first century of the Christian era. Eboracum was made the
+head-quarters of their fifth legion, and soon became the chief city of a
+district now rich in the relics of the Roman occupation, their dead
+being still found thickly buried around the town. Portions of the walls
+of Eboracum remain, among them being that remarkable relic, the tower,
+polygonal in plan, which is known as the Multangular Tower, and which
+marks the south-western angle of the ancient Roman city. Not far away
+are the dilapidated ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, once one of the
+wealthiest and proudest religious houses in the North of England, but
+with little now left but portions of the foundations, a gateway, and the
+north and west walls of the nave. This abbey was founded in the eleventh
+century, and it was from here that the exiled monks who built Fountains
+Abbey were driven out. This ruin has been in its present condition for
+nearly two hundred and fifty years.</p>
+
+<p>For over three centuries Eboracum was a great Roman city. Here came the
+emperor Severus and died in 211, his body being cremated and the ashes
+conveyed to Rome. When the empire was divided, Britain fell to the share
+of Constantius Chlorus, and he made Eboracum his home, dying there in
+305. Constantine the Great, his son, was first proclaimed emperor at
+Eboracum. When the Romans departed evil days fell upon York; the
+barbarians destroyed it, and it was not till 627 that it reappeared in
+history, when Eadwine, King of Northumbria, was baptized there by St.
+Paulinus on Easter Day, a little wooden church being built for the
+purpose. Then began its ecclesiastical eminence, for Paulinus was the
+first Archbishop of York, beginning a line of prelates that has
+continued unbroken since. In the eighth century the Northmen began their
+incursions, and from spoilers ultimately became settlers. York
+prospered, being thronged with Danish merchants, and in the tenth
+century had thirty thousand population. In King Harold's reign the
+Northmen attacked and captured the town, when Harold surprised and
+defeated them, killing their leader Tostig, but no sooner had he won the
+victory than he had to hasten southward to meet William the Norman, and
+be in turn vanquished and slain. York resisted William, but he
+ultimately conquered the city and built a castle there, but being
+rebellious the people attacked the castle. He returned and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> chastised
+them and built a second castle on the Ouse; but the discontent deepened,
+and a Danish fleet appearing in the Humber there was another rebellion,
+and the Norman garrison firing the houses around the castle to clear the
+ground for its better defence, the greater part of the city was
+consumed. While this was going on the Danes arrived, attacked and
+captured both castles, slaughtered their entire garrisons of three
+thousand men, and were practically unopposed by the discontented people.
+Then it was that the stalwart Norman William swore "by the splendor of
+God" to avenge himself on Northumbria, and, keeping his pledge, he
+devastated the entire country north of the Humber.</p>
+
+<p>York continued to exist without making much history for several
+centuries, till the Wars of the Roses came between the rival houses of
+York and Lancaster. In this York bore its full part, but it was at first
+the Lancastrian king who was most frequently found at York, and not the
+duke who bore the title. But after Towton Field, on Palm Sunday, March
+29, 1461, the most sanguinary battle ever fought in England, one hundred
+thousand men being engaged, the news of their defeat was brought to the
+Lancastrian king Henry and Queen Margaret at York, and they soon became
+fugitives, and their youthful adversary, the Duke of York, was crowned
+Edward IV. in York Minster. In the Civil War it was in York that Charles
+I. took refuge, and from that city issued his first declaration of war
+against the Parliament. For two years York was loyal to the king, and
+then the fierce siege took place in which the Parliamentary forces
+ruined St. Mary's Abbey by undermining and destroying its tower. Prince
+Rupert raised this siege, but the respite was not long. Marston Moor saw
+the king defeated, Rupert's troopers being, as the historian tells us,
+made as "stubble to the swords of Cromwell's Ironsides." The king's
+shattered army retreated to York, was pursued, and in a fortnight York
+surrendered to the Parliamentary forces. The city languished afterwards,
+losing its trade, and developing vast pride, but equal poverty. Since
+the days of railways, however, it has become a very important junction,
+and has thus somewhat revived its activity.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p298" id="p298"></a>
+<img src="images/p298.jpg" width="600" height="589" alt="YORK MINSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">YORK MINSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">MICKLEGATE BAR&mdash;THE RED TOWER</span><a name="p297" id="p297"></a></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p297.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:250px; height:180px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:100px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:600px; height:300px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:450px; height:100px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>The walls of York are almost as complete as those of Chester, while its
+ancient gateways are in much better preservation. The gateways, called
+"bars," are among the marked features of the city, and the streets
+leading to them are called "gates." The chief of these is Micklegate,
+the highroad leading to the south, the most important street in York,
+and Micklegate Bar is the most graceful in design of all, coming down
+from Tudor days, with turrets and battlements pierced with cross-shaped
+loopholes and surmounted by small stone figures of warriors. It was on
+this bar that the head of the Duke of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> York was exposed, and the ghastly
+spectacle greeted his son, Edward IV., as he rode into the town after
+Towton Field. It did not take long to strike off the heads of several
+distinguished prisoners and put them in his place as an expiatory
+offering. Here also whitened the heads of traitors down to as late as
+the last Jacobite rebellion. One of the buttresses of the walls of York
+is the Red Tower, so called from the red brick of which it is built.
+These walls and gates are full of interesting relics of the olden time,
+and they are still preserved to show the line of circumvallation of the
+ancient walled city. But the chief glory of York is its famous minster,
+on which the hand of time has been lightly laid. When King Eadwine was
+baptized in the little wooden church hastily erected for the purpose, he
+began building at the same place, at the suggestion of Paulinus, a large
+and more noble basilica of stone, wherein the little church was to be
+included. But before it was completed the king was slain, and his head
+was brought to York and buried in the portico of the basilica. This
+church fell into decay, and was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> burned in the eighth century. On its
+site was built a much larger minster, which was consumed in William the
+Conqueror's time, when the greater part of York was burned. From its
+ashes rose the present magnificent minster, portions of which were
+building from the eleventh to the fifteenth century, it being completed
+as we now see it in 1470, and reconsecrated as the cathedral of St.
+Peter with great pomp in 1472. Its chief treasure, was the shrine of St.
+William, the nephew of King Stephen, a holy man of singularly gentle
+character. When he came into York it is said the pressure of the crowd
+was so great that it caused the fall of a bridge over the Ouse, but the
+saint by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> miracle saved all their lives. The shrine was destroyed at
+the Reformation, and the relics buried in the nave, where they were
+found in the last century. York Minster remained almost unchanged until
+1829, when a lunatic named Martin concealed himself one night in the
+cathedral and set fire to the woodwork of the choir, afterwards escaping
+through a transept-window. The fire destroyed the timber roofs of the
+choir and nave and the great organ. Martin was arrested, and confined in
+an asylum until he died. The restoration cost $350,000, and had not long
+been completed when some workmen accidentally set fire to the
+south-western tower, which gutted it, destroyed the bells, and burned
+the roof of the nave. This mischief cost $125,000 to repair, and the
+southern transept, which was considered unsafe, has since been partially
+rebuilt.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;">
+<a name="p299" id="p299"></a>
+<img src="images/p299.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="CHOIR OF YORK MINSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHOIR OF YORK MINSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p300" id="p300"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p300.jpg" width="450" height="443" alt="TOMB OF ARCHBISHOP WALTER DE GREY, YORK MINSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TOMB OF ARCHBISHOP WALTER DE GREY, YORK MINSTER.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Few English cathedrals exceed York Minster in dignity and massive
+grandeur. It is the largest Gothic church in the kingdom, and contains
+one of the biggest bells. "Old Peter," weighing ten and three-quarter
+tons, and struck regularly every day at noon. The minster is five
+hundred and twenty-four feet long, two hundred and twenty-two feet wide,
+ninety-nine feet high in the nave, and its towers rise about two hundred
+feet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> the central tower being two hundred and twelve feet high. Its
+great charms are its windows, most of them containing the original
+stained glass, some of it nearly six hundred years old. The east window
+is the largest stained-glass window in the world, seventy-seven by
+thirty-two feet, and of exquisite design, being made by John Thornton of
+Coventry in 1408, who was paid one dollar per week wages and got a
+present of fifty dollars when he finished it. At the end of one transept
+is the Five Sisters Window, designed by five nuns, each planning a tall,
+narrow sash; and a beautiful rose-window is at the end of the other
+transept. High up in the nave the statue of St. George stands on one
+side defying the dragon, who pokes out his head on the other. Its tombs
+are among the minster's greatest curiosities. The effigy of Archbishop
+Walter de Grey, nearly six hundred and fifty years old, is stretched out
+in an open coffin lying under a superb canopy, and the corpse instead of
+being in the ground is overhead in the canopy. All the walls are full of
+memorial tablets&mdash;a few modern ones to English soldiers, but most of
+them ancient. Strange tombs are also set in the walls, bearing effigies
+of the dead. Sir William Gee stands up with his two wives, one on each
+side, and his six children&mdash;all eight statues having their hands folded.
+Others sit up like Punch and Judy, the women dressed in hoops,
+farthingales, and ruffs, the highest fashions of their age. Here is
+buried Wentworth, second Earl of Strafford, and scores of archbishops.
+The body of the famous Hotspur is entombed in the wall beneath the great
+east window. Burke's friend Saville is buried here, that statesman
+having written his epitaph. The outside of the minster has all sorts of
+grotesque protuberances, which, according to the ancient style of
+church-building, represent the evil spirits that religion casts out.
+Adjoining the north transept, and approached through a beautiful
+vestibule, is the chapter-house, an octagonal building sixty-three feet
+in diameter and surmounted by a pyramidal roof. Seven of its sides are
+large stained-glass windows, and the ceiling is a magnificent work.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p301" id="p301"></a><span class="caption">CLIFFORD&#39;S TOWER.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p301.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:290px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:380px; height:170px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>York Castle occupied a peninsula between the Ouse and a branch called
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> Foss. Of this Clifford's Tower is about all of the ancient work
+that remains. It rises on its mound high above the surrounding
+buildings, and was the keep of the ancient fortress, constructed
+according to a remarkable and unique plan, consisting of parts of four
+cylinders running into each other. It dates from Edward I., but the
+entrance was built by Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, its governor under
+Charles I. The interior of the tower was afterwards burned, and George
+Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, who was imprisoned there,
+planted a walnut tree within the tower which is still growing. It was in
+the keep of the Norman castle, which this tower replaced, that the
+massacre of the Jews, which grew out of race-jealousy at their great
+wealth, occurred in 1190. On March 16th the house of Benet, the leading
+Jew in York, was sacked by a mob and his wife and children murdered.
+Five hundred of his countrymen then sought refuge in the castle, and
+those who remained outside were killed. The mob besieged the castle, led
+by a hermit from the neighborhood "famed for zeal and holiness," who was
+clothed in white robes, and each morning celebrated mass and inflamed
+the fury of the besiegers by his preaching. At last he ventured too near
+the walls, and was brained by a stone. Battering-rams were then brought
+up, and a night's carouse was indulged in before the work of knocking
+down the castle began. Within was a different scene: the Jews were
+without food or hope. An aged rabbi, who had come as a missionary from
+the East, and was venerated almost as a prophet, exhorted his brethren
+to render up freely their lives to God rather than await death at the
+enemy's hands. Nearly all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> decided to follow his counsel; they fired the
+castle, destroyed their property, killed their wives and children, and
+then turned their swords upon themselves. Day broke, and the small
+remnant who dared not die called from the walls of the blazing castle
+that they were anxious for baptism and "the faith and peace of Christ."
+They were promised everything, opened the gates, and were all massacred.
+In later years York Castle has enclosed some well-known prisoners, among
+them Eugene Aram, and Dick Turpin, who was hanged there. The York
+elections and mass-meetings are held in the courtyard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p302" id="p302"></a><span class="caption">THE SHAMBLES.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p302.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:300px; height:290px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here Wilberforce, who long represented York in Parliament, spoke in
+1784, when Boswell wrote of him: "I saw what seemed a mere shrimp mount
+upon the table, but as I listened he grew and grew until the shrimp
+became a whale." The York streets are full of old houses, many with
+porches and overhanging fronts. One of the most curious rows is the
+Shambles, on a narrow street and dating from the fourteenth century. A
+little way out of town is the village of Holgate, which was the
+residence of Lindley Murray the grammarian. Guy Fawkes is said to have
+been a native of York, and this strange and antique old city, we are
+also credibly assured, was in 1632 the birthplace of Robinson Crusoe.</p>
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
+</div>
+
+<h3>CASTLE HOWARD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p303" id="p303"></a>
+<img src="images/p303.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="CASTLE HOWARD, SOUTH FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CASTLE HOWARD, SOUTH FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Starting north-east from York towards the coast, we go along the pretty
+valley of the Derwent, and not far from the borders of the stream come
+to that magnificent pile, the seat of the Earls of Carlisle&mdash;Castle
+Howard. More than a century ago Walpole wrote of it: "Lord Strafford had
+told me that I should see one of the finest places in Yorkshire, but
+nobody had informed me that I should at one view see a palace, a town, a
+fortified city: temples on high<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> places; woods worthy of being each a
+metropolis of the Druids; vales connected to hills by other woods; the
+noblest lawn in the world, fenced by half the horizon; and a mausoleum
+that would tempt one to be buried alive. In short, I have seen gigantic
+places before, but never a sublimer one." Castle Howard was the work of
+Vanbrugh, the designer of Blenheim, and in plan is somewhat similar, but
+much more sober and simple, with a central cupola that gives it dignity.
+It avoids many of the faults of Blenheim: its wings are more subdued, so
+that the central colonnade stands out to greater advantage, and there
+are few more imposing country-houses in England than this palace of the
+Howards. This family are scions of the ducal house of Norfolk, so that
+"all the blood of all the Howards," esteemed the bluest blood in the
+kingdom, runs in their veins. The Earls of Carlisle are descended from
+"Belted Will"&mdash;Lord William Howard, the lord warden of the Marches in
+the days of the first Stuart&mdash;whose stronghold was at Naworth Castle,
+twelve miles north-east of Carlisle. His grandson took an active part in
+the restoration of Charles II., and in recompense was created the first
+Earl of Carlisle. His bones lie in York Minster. His grandson, the third
+earl, who was deputy earl-marshal at the coronation of Queen Anne, built
+Castle Howard. The seventh earl, George William Frederick, was for eight
+years viceroy in Ireland, resigning in 1864 on account of ill-health;
+and it is said that he was one of the few English rulers who really won
+the affections of the people of that unhappy country. He died soon
+afterwards.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;">
+<a name="p304" id="p304"></a>
+<img src="images/p304.jpg" width="271" height="500" alt="THE OBELISK, CASTLE HOWARD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE OBELISK, CASTLE HOWARD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p305" id="p305"></a>
+<img src="images/p305.jpg" width="600" height="313" alt="THE TEMPLE, WITH THE MAUSOLEUM IN THE DISTANCE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TEMPLE, WITH THE MAUSOLEUM IN THE DISTANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving the railway-station in the valley of the Derwent, and mounting
+the hills to the westward, a little village is reached on the confines
+of the park. Beyond the village the road to the park-gates passes
+through meadow-land, and is bordered by beautiful beech trees arranged
+in clusters of about a dozen trees in each, producing an unusual but
+most happy effect. The gateway is entered, a plain building in a
+castellated wall&mdash;this being Walpole's "fortified city"&mdash;and, proceeding
+up a slope, the fine avenue of beeches crosses another avenue of lime
+trees. Here is placed an obelisk erected in honor of John Churchill,
+Duke of Marlborough, which also bears an inscription telling of the
+erection of Castle Howard. It recites that the house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> was built on the
+site of the old castle of Hinderskelf, and was begun in 1702 by Charles,
+the third Earl of Carlisle, who set up this inscription in 1731. The
+happy earl, pleased with the grand palace and park he had created, thus
+addresses posterity on the obelisk:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If to perfection these plantations rise,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">If they agreeably my heirs surprise,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This faithful pillar will their age declare</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As long as time these characters shall spare.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here, then, with kind remembrance read his name</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Who for posterity performed the same."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The avenue then leads on past the north front of the castle, standing in
+a fine situation upon a ridge between two shallow valleys. The bed of
+the northern valley has been converted into a lake, while on the
+southern slopes are beautiful and extensive lawns and gardens. The house
+forms three sides of a hollow square, and within, it is interesting in
+pictures and ornaments. It is cut up, however, into small rooms and
+long, chilly corridors, which detract from its good effect. The
+entrance-hall is beneath the central dome and occupies the whole height
+of the structure, but it is only about thirty-five feet square, giving a
+sense of smallness. Frescoes decorate the walls and ceilings. The public
+apartments, which are in several suites opening into each other and
+flanked by long corridors, are like a museum, so full are they of rare
+works of art, china, glass, and paintings. Much of the collection came
+from the Orleans Gallery. There are also many portraits in black and red
+chalk by Janet, a French artist who flourished in the sixteenth century.
+Some of the paintings are of great value, and are by Rubens, Caracci,
+Canaletti, Tintoretto, Titian, Hogarth, Bellini, Mabuse, Holbein, Lely,
+Vandyke, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and others. The Castle Howard
+collection is exceptionally valuable in historical portraits. The
+windows of the drawing-room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> look out upon extensive flower-gardens,
+laid out in rather formal style with antique vases and statues. Beyond
+these gardens is seen a circular temple placed upon a knoll, the
+"mausoleum" which so moved Walpole. Here the former owners of the castle
+are buried, a constant <i>memento mori</i> to the tenants of the house,
+though the taste certainly seems peculiar that has made the family tomb
+the most prominent object in the view from the drawing-room windows.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p306" id="p306"></a>
+<img src="images/p306.jpg" width="450" height="425" alt="GATEWAY, KIRKHAM PRIORY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, KIRKHAM PRIORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far from Castle Howard are the ruins of Kirkham Priory. A charming
+fragment of this noble church remains in a grassy valley on the margin
+of the Derwent. Here, nearly eight hundred years ago, the Augustinians
+established the priory, the founder being Sir Walter l'Espec, one of the
+leaders of the English who drove back King David's Scottish invasion at
+the battle of the Standard, near Durham. Sir Walter had an only son, who
+was one day riding near the site of Kirkham when a wild boar suddenly
+rushed across his path. The horse plunged and threw his rider, who,
+striking head-foremost against a projecting stone, was killed. Sir
+Walter, being childless, determined to devote his wealth to the service
+of God, and founded three religious houses&mdash;one in Bedfordshire, another
+at Rievaulx, where he sought refuge from his sorrows, and the third at
+the place of his son's death at Kirkham. Legend says that the youth was
+caught by his foot in the stirrup when thrown, and was dragged by his
+runaway horse to the spot where the high altar was afterwards located.
+Sir Walter's sister married into the family of De Ros, among the
+ancestors of the Dukes of Rutland, and they were patrons of Kirkham
+until the dissolution of the monasteries. Little remains of it: the
+gate-house still stands, and in front is the base of a cross said to
+have been made from the stone against which the boy was thrown.
+Alongside this stone they hold a "bird-fair" every summer, where
+jackdaws, starlings, and other birds are sold, with a few rabbits thrown
+in; but the fair now is chiefly an excuse for a holiday. The church was
+three hundred feet long, with the convent-buildings to the southward,
+but only scant ruins remain. Beyond the ruins, at the edge of the
+greensward, the river glides along under a gray stone bridge. At
+Howsham, in the neighborhood, Hudson the railway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> king was born, and at
+Foston-le-Clay Sydney Smith lived, having for his friends the Earl and
+Countess of Carlisle of that day, who made their first call in a gold
+coach and got stuck fast in the clay. Here the witty vicar resided,
+having been presented to a living, and built himself a house, which he
+described as "the ugliest in the county," but admitted by all critics to
+be "one of the most comfortable," though located "twenty miles from a
+lemon." Subsequently Smith left here for Somersetshire.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SCARBOROUGH AND WHITBY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p308" id="p308"></a>
+<img src="images/p308.jpg" width="600" height="302" alt="SCARBOROUGH SPA AND ESPLANADE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCARBOROUGH SPA AND ESPLANADE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The coast of Yorkshire affords the boldest and grandest scenery on the
+eastern shore of England. A great protruding backbone of chalk rocks
+projects far into the North Sea at Flamborough Head, and makes one of
+the most prominent landmarks on all that rugged, iron-bound coast. This
+is the Ocellum Promontorium of Ptolemy, and its lighthouse is three
+hundred and thirty feet above the sea, while far away over the waters
+the view is superb. From Flamborough Head northward beyond Whitby the
+coast-line is a succession of abrupt white cliffs and bold headlands,
+presenting magnificent scenery. About twenty-three miles north of
+Flamborough is the "Queen of Northern Watering-places," as Scarborough
+is pleased to be called, where a bold headland three hundred feet high
+juts out into the North Sea for a mile, having on each side semicircular
+bays, each about a mile and a quarter wide. At the extreme point of the
+lozenge-shaped promontory stands the ruined castle which named the town
+Scar-burgh, with the sea washing the rocky base of its foundations on
+three sides. Steep cliffs run precipitously down to the narrow beach
+that fringes these bays around, and on the cliffs is the town of
+Scarborough, while myriads of fishing-vessels cluster about the
+breakwater-piers that have been constructed to make a harbor of refuge.
+It would be difficult to find a finer situation, and art has improved it
+to the utmost, especially as mineral springs add the attractions of a
+spa to the sea air and bathing. The old castle, battered by war and the
+elements, is a striking ruin, the precipitous rock on which it stands
+being a natural fortress. The Northmen when they first invaded Britain
+made its site their stronghold, but the present castle was not built
+until the reign of King Stephen, when its builder, William le Gros, Earl
+of Albemarle, was so powerful in this part of Yorkshire that it was said
+he was "in Stephen's days the more real king." But Henry II. compelled
+the proud earl to submit to his authority, though "with much searching
+of heart and choler," and Scarborough afterwards became one of the royal
+castles, Edward I. in his earlier years keeping court there. It was
+there that Edward II. was besieged and his favorite Gaveston starved
+into surrender, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> then beheaded on Blacklow Hill in violation of the
+terms of his capitulation. Scarborough was repeatedly attacked by the
+Scotch, but it subsequently enjoyed an interval of peace until the
+Reformation. In Wyatt's rebellion his friends secured possession of the
+castle by stratagem. A number of his men, disguised as peasants, on
+market-day strolled one by one into the castle, and then at a given
+signal overpowered the sentinels and admitted the rest of their band.
+The castle, however, was soon recaptured from the rebels, and Thomas
+Stafford, the leader in this enterprise, was beheaded. From this event
+is derived the proverb of a "Scarborough warning"&mdash;a word and a blow,
+but the blow first. In Elizabeth's reign Scarborough was little else but
+a fishing-village, and so unfortunate that it appealed to the queen for
+aid. In the Civil War the castle was held by the Royalists, and was
+besieged for six months. While the guns could not reduce it, starvation
+did, and the Parliamentary army took possession. Three years later the
+governor declared for the king, and the castle again stood a five
+months' siege, finally surrendering. Since then it has fallen into
+decay, but it was a prison-house for George Fox the Quaker, who was
+treated with severity there. A little way down the hill are the ruins of
+the ancient church of St. Mary, which has been restored.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p309" id="p309"></a>
+<img src="images/p309.jpg" width="650" height="447" alt="SCARBOROUGH FROM THE SEA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCARBOROUGH FROM THE SEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>The cliffs on the bay to the south of Castle Hill have been converted
+into a beautifully-terraced garden and promenade. Here, amid flowers and
+summer houses and terraced walks, is the fashionable resort, the
+footpaths winding up and down the face of the cliffs or broadening into
+the gardens, where music is provided and there are nightly
+illuminations. Millions of money have been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> expended in beautifying the
+front of the cliffs adjoining the Spa, which is on the seashore, and to
+which Scarborough owed its original fame as a watering-place. The
+springs were discovered in 1620, and by the middle of the last century
+had become fashionable, but the present ornamental Spa was erected only
+about forty years ago. There is a broad esplanade in front. There are
+two springs, one containing more salt, lime, and magnesia sulphates than
+the other. In the season, this esplanade&mdash;in fact, the entire front of
+the cliffs&mdash;is full of visitors, while before it are rows of little
+boxes on wheels, the bathing-houses that are drawn into the water. The
+surf is usually rather gentle, however, though the North Sea can knock
+things about at a lively rate in a storm.</p>
+
+<p>North of Scarborough the coast extends, a grand escarpment of cliffs and
+headlands, past Robin Hood's Bay, with its rocky barriers, the North
+Cheek and the South Cheek, to the little harbor of another
+watering-place, Whitby. The cliffs here are more precipitous and the
+situation even more picturesque than at Scarborough. The river Esk has
+carved a deep glen in the Yorkshire moorland, and in this the town
+nestles, climbing the steep banks on either side of the river. The ruins
+of Whitby Abbey are located high up on the side of the ravine opposite
+to the main part of the town, and they still present a noble if
+dilapidated pile. The nave fell after a storm in the last century, and a
+similar cause threw down the central tower in 1830. The choir and
+northern transept are still standing, extremely beautiful Early English
+work: only fragments of other portions of the abbey remain. This was in
+olden times the Westminster of Northumbria, containing the tombs of
+Eadwine and of Oswy, with kings and nobles grouped around them. It has
+been over twelve hundred years since a religious house was founded at
+Whitby, at first known as the White Homestead, an outgrowth of the
+abbey, which was founded by Oswy and presided over by the sainted Hilda,
+who chose the spot upon the lonely crags by the sea. The fame of Whitby
+as a place of learning soon spread, and here lived the cowherd C&aelig;dmon,
+the first English poet. The Danes sacked and burned it but after the
+Norman Conquest, under the patronage of the Percies, the abbey grew in
+wealth and fame. Fragments of the monastery yet remain, and on the hill
+a little lower down is the parish church, with a long flight of steps
+leading up to it from the harbor along which the people go, and when
+there is a funeral the coffin has to be slung in order to be carried up
+the steps. Whitby is famous for its jet, which is worked into numerous
+ornaments: this is a variety of fossil wood, capable of being cut and
+taking a high polish. It is also celebrated for its production of
+iron-ore, which indeed is a product of all this part of Yorkshire; while
+at night, along the valley of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> Tees, not far north of Whitby, the
+blaze of the myriads of furnaces light up the heavens like the fire of
+Vesuvius in the Bay of Naples. Among the tales of the abbey is that
+which</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Whitby's nuns exulting told,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How to their house three barons bold</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Must menial service do."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p311" id="p311"></a>
+<img src="images/p311.jpg" width="450" height="449" alt="WHITBY ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WHITBY ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It appears that three gentlemen&mdash;De Bruce, De Percy, and Allaston&mdash;were
+hunting boars on the abbey-lands in 1159, and roused a fine one, which
+their dogs pressed hard and chased to the hermitage, where it ran into
+the chapel and dropped dead. The hermit closed the door against the
+hounds, and the hunters, coming up, were enraged to find the dogs
+baulked of their prey, and on the hermit's opening the door they
+attacked him with their boar-spears and mortally wounded him. It was not
+long before they found that this was dangerous sport, and they took
+sanctuary at Scarborough. The Church, however, did not protect those who
+had insulted it, and they were given up to the abbot of Whitby, who was
+about to make an example of them when the dying hermit summoned the
+abbot and the prisoners to his bedside and granted them their lives and
+lands. But it was done upon a peculiar tenure: upon Ascension Day at
+sunrise they were to come to the wood on Eskdale-side, and the abbot's
+officer was to deliver to each "ten stakes, eleven stout stowers, and
+eleven yethers, to be cut by you, or some of you, with a knife of one
+penny price;" these they were to take on their backs to Whitby before
+nine o'clock in the morning. Then said the hermit, "If it be full sea
+your labor and service shall cease; and if low water, each of you shall
+set your stakes to the brim, each stake one yard from the other, and so
+yether them on each side with your yethers, and so stake on each side
+with your stout stowers, that they may stand three tides without
+removing by the force thereof. You shall faithfully do this in
+remembrance that you did most cruelly slay me, and that you may the
+better call to God for mercy, repent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> unfeignedly of your sins, and do
+good works. The officer of Eskdale-side shall blow, 'Out on you, out on
+you, out on you for this heinous crime!'" Failure of this strange
+service was to forfeit their lands to the abbot of Whitby.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>DURHAM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p312" id="p312"></a>
+<img src="images/p312.jpg" width="650" height="400" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL AND CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL AND CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 462px;">
+<a name="p313" id="p313"></a>
+<img src="images/p313.jpg" width="462" height="600" alt="NORMAN DOORWAY IN DURHAM CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORMAN DOORWAY IN DURHAM CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We have now come into a region of coal and iron, with mines and furnaces
+in abundance, and tall chimneys in all the villages pouring out black
+smoke. All the country is thoroughly cultivated, and the little streams
+bubbling over the stones at the bottoms of the deep valleys, past
+sloping green fields and occasional patches of woods where the land is
+too steep for cultivation, give picturesqueness to the scene. We have
+crossed over the boundary from Yorkshire into Durham, and upon the very
+crooked little river Wear there rise upon the tops of the precipitous
+cliffs bordering the stream, high elevated above the red-tiled roofs of
+the town, the towers of Durham Cathedral and Castle. They stand in a
+remarkable position. The Wear, swinging around a curve like an elongated
+horseshoe, has excavated a precipitous valley out of the rocks. At the
+narrower part of the neck there is a depression, so that the promontory
+around which the river sweeps appears like the wrist with the hand
+clenched. The town stands at the depression, descending the slopes on
+either side to the river, and also spreading upon the opposite banks.
+The castle bars the access to the promontory, upon which stands the
+cathedral. Thus, almost impregnably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> fortified, the ancient bishops of
+Durham were practically sovereigns, and they made war as quickly as they
+would celebrate a mass if their powers were threatened, for they bore
+alike the sword and the crozier. Durham was founded to guard the relics
+of the famous St. Cuthbert of Lindisfarne, the great ascetic of the
+early English Church, distinguished above all others for the severity of
+his mortifications and his abhorrence of women. At his shrine, we are
+told, none of the gentler sex might worship; they were admitted to the
+church, but in the priory not even a queen could lodge. Queen Philippa
+was once admitted there as a guest, but a tumult arose, and she had to
+flee half dressed for safety to the castle. St. Cuthbert was a hermit to
+whom the sight of human beings was a weariness and the solitude of the
+desert a delight. He was born in Scotland about the middle of the
+seventh century, of humble origin, and passed his early years as a
+shepherd near Melrose. He adopted an austere life, found a friend in the
+abbot of Melrose, and ultimately sickened of an epidemic, his recovery
+being despaired of. In answer, however, to the prayers of the monks, he
+was restored to health as by a miracle, and became the prior of Melrose.
+Afterwards he was for twelve years prior of Lindisfarne, an island off
+the Northumbrian coast, but the craving for solitude was too strong to
+be resisted, and he became a hermit. He went to Farne, a lonely rocky
+island in the neighboring sea, and, living in a hut, spent his life in
+prayer and fasting, but having time, according to the legend, to work
+abundant miracles. A spring issued from the rock to give him water, the
+sea laid fagots at his feet, and the birds ministered to his wants. At
+first other monks had free access to him, but gradually he secluded
+himself in the hut, speaking to them through the window, and ultimately
+closed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> even that against them except in cases of emergency. Such
+sanctity naturally acquired wide fame, and after long urging he
+consented to become a bishop, at first at Hexham, afterwards at
+Lindisfarne, thus returning to familiar scenes and an island home. But
+his life was ebbing, and after two years' service he longed again for
+his hermit's hut on the rock of Farne. He resigned the bishopric, and,
+returning to his hut, in a few weeks died. His brethren buried him
+beside his altar, where he rested eleven years; then exhuming the body,
+it was found thoroughly preserved, and was buried again in a new coffin
+at Lindisfarne. Almost two hundred years passed, when the Danes made an
+incursion, and to escape them the monks took the body, with other
+precious relics, and left Lindisfarne. During four years they wandered
+about with their sacred charge, and ultimately settled near
+Chester-le-Street, where the body of St. Cuthbert rested for over a
+century; but another Danish invasion in 995 sent the saint's bones once
+more on their travels, and they were taken to Ripon. The danger past,
+the monks started on their return, transporting the coffin on a
+carriage. They had arrived at the Wear, when suddenly the carriage
+stopped and was found to be immovable. This event no doubt had a
+meaning, and the monks prayed and fasted for three days to learn what it
+was. Then the saint appeared in a vision and said he had chosen this
+spot for his abode. It was a wild place, known as Dunhelm: the monks
+went to the Dun, or headland, and erected a tabernacle for their ark
+from the boughs of trees while they built a stone church, within which,
+in the year 999, the body was enshrined. This church stood until after
+the Norman Conquest, when the king made its bishop the Earl of Durham,
+and his palatinate jurisdiction began.</p>
+
+<p>The present Durham Cathedral was begun in 1093, with the castle
+alongside. As we look at them from the railway-station, they stand a
+monument of the days when the same hand grasped the pastoral staff and
+the sword&mdash;"half house of God, half castle 'gainst the Scot." Upon the
+top of the rocks, which are clad in foliage to the river's edge, on the
+left hand, supported by massive outworks built up from halfway down the
+slope, rises the western face of the castle. Beyond this, above a fringe
+of trees, rises the lofty cathedral, its high central tower forming the
+apex of the group and its two western towers looking down into the
+ravine. The galilee in front appears built up from the depths of the
+valley, and is supported by outworks scarcely less solid than those of
+the castle. Durham, more than any other place in England, is a memorial
+of the temporal authority of the Church, uniting the mitre and the
+coronet. The plan of Durham Cathedral is peculiar in having the closed
+galilee at the western end, instead of the open porch as is usual, while
+the eastern end, which is wider than the choir, terminates abruptly,
+having no Lady Chapel, but being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> in effect cut off, with a gable in the
+centre and a great rose-window. As the galilee overhangs the ravine, the
+principal entrance to the cathedral is from a fine northern porch. To
+the portal is affixed a large knocker of quaint design, which in former
+days was a Mecca for the fugitive, for the shrine of St. Cuthbert
+enjoyed the right of sanctuary. When the suppliant grasped this knocker
+he was safe, for over the door two monks kept perpetual watch to open at
+the first stroke. As soon as admitted the suppliant was required to
+confess his crime, whatever it might be. This was written down, and a
+bell in the galilee tolled to announce the fact that some one had sought
+"the peace of Cuthbert;" and he was then clothed in a black gown with a
+yellow cross on the shoulder. After thirty-seven days, if no pardon
+could be obtained, the malefactor solemnly abjured his native land for
+ever, and was conveyed to the seacoast, bearing a white wooden cross in
+his hand, and was sent out of the kingdom by the first ship that sailed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;">
+<a name="p315" id="p315"></a>
+<img src="images/p315.jpg" width="393" height="600" alt="DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM AN OLD HOMESTEAD ON THE WEAR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM AN OLD HOMESTEAD ON THE WEAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 462px;">
+<a name="p316" id="p316"></a>
+<img src="images/p316.jpg" width="462" height="600" alt="THE NAVE, DURHAM CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE NAVE, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The interior of Durham Cathedral is regarded as the noblest Norman
+construction yet remaining in England. The arcade, triforium, and
+clerestory are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> in fine proportion; the nave has a vaulted roof of
+stone, and the alternate columns are clustered in plan, their middle
+shafts extending from floor to roof. These columns are enriched with
+zigzag, lattice, spiral, and vertical flutings. This cathedral, begun in
+1093, was nearly two centuries building, and the Chapel of Nine Altars,
+in honor of various saints, was erected at the eastern end in the
+twelfth century. Some of these altars did duty for a pair of saints, St.
+Cuthbert sharing the central one with St. Bede, a name only second to
+his in the memories of Durham, so that the nine altars were availed of
+to reverence sixteen saints. Behind the reredos a platform extends a
+short distance into this chapel at a height of six feet above the floor.
+A large blue flagstone is let into the platform, with shallow grooves on
+either hand. Here stood St. Cuthbert's shrine, highly ornamented, and
+having seats underneath for the pilgrims and cripples who came to pray
+for relief. This being never wanting, we are told that the shrine came
+to be so richly invested that it was esteemed one of the most sumptuous
+monuments in England, so numerous were the offerings and jewels bestowed
+upon it. Among the relics here accumulated was the famous Black Rood of
+Scotland, the prize of the battle of Neville's Cross, fought near
+Durham. There were also many relics of saints and martyrs, scraps of
+clothing of the Saviour and the Virgin, pieces of the crown of thorns
+and of the true cross, vials containing the milk of the Virgin Mother
+and the blood of St. Thomas, besides elephants' tusks and griffins'
+claws and eggs, with myriads of jewels. In 1104, St. Cuthbert's body was
+deposited in this shrine with solemn ceremonies, and it rested there
+undisturbed until the dissolution of the monasteries, reverentially
+watched, day and night, by monks stationed in an adjoining chamber. Then
+the shrine was destroyed and the treasures scattered, the coffin opened,
+and St. Cuthbert buried beneath the slab, so that now the only remnants
+visible are the furrows worn in the adjoining pavement by the feet of
+the ancient worshippers. Tradition tells that the exact position of St.
+Cuthbert's grave is known only to three Benedictine monks, of whom Scott
+writes:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"There, deep in Durham's Gothic shade,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His relics are in secret laid,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">But none may know the place,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Save of his holiest servants three,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Who share that wondrous grace."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The corpse, however, rests beneath the blue slab. In 1827 it was raised,
+and, while other human remains were found, there was disclosed beneath
+them, in a coffin, a skeleton vested in mouldering robes, and with it
+various treasures, which, with the robes, accord with the description of
+those present in St. Cuthbert's coffin when opened in 1104. The skeleton
+was reinterred in a new coffin, and the relics, particularly an ancient
+golden cross and a comb, were placed in the cathedral library.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 473px;">
+<a name="p317" id="p317"></a>
+<img src="images/p317.jpg" width="473" height="600" alt="THE CHOIR, LOOKING WEST, DURHAM CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHOIR, LOOKING WEST, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the galilee of Durham Cathedral, near the south-eastern angle, is a
+plain, low altar-tomb that marks the resting-place of St. Bede, commonly
+known as "the Venerable Bede"&mdash;a title which angelic hands are said to
+have supplied to the line inscribed on his tomb. He was the first
+English historian, a gentle, simple scholar, who spent his life from
+childhood in a monastery at Jarrow, near the mouth of the Wear, and took
+his pleasure in learning, teaching, or writing. His great work was the
+<i>Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation</i>, which occupied many
+years in compilation, and is still the most trusted history of the
+period of which it treats. His literary activity was extraordinary, and
+he produced many other works. He was born near Durham in 672, and died
+in 735. His devotion to literary work was such that even during his last
+illness he was dictating to an amanuensis a translation of the Gospel of
+St. John into Anglo-Saxon, and upon completing the last sentence
+requested the assistant to place him on the floor of his cell, where he
+said a short prayer, and expired as the closing words passed his lips.
+He was buried where he had lived, at Jarrow, and as the centuries passed
+the fame of his sanctity and learning increased. Then a certain &AElig;lfred
+conceived the idea of stealing St. Bede's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> remains for the glorification
+of Durham. Several times baffled, he at length succeeded, and carrying
+the precious relics to Durham, they were for a time preserved in St.
+Cuthbert's shrine, but were afterwards removed to a separate tomb, which
+in 1370 was placed in the galilee, where it has since remained. At the
+Reformation the shrine was destroyed, and St. Bede's bones, like St.
+Cuthbert's, were buried beneath the spot on which the shrine had stood.
+This tomb was opened in 1831, and many human bones were found beneath,
+together with a gilt ring. The bones in all probability were St. Bede's
+remains. Durham Cathedral contains few monuments, for reverence for the
+solitude of St. Cuthbert whom it enshrined excluded memorials of other
+men during several centuries.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;">
+<a name="p318" id="p318"></a>
+<img src="images/p318.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="THE GALILEE AND TOMB OF BEDE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GALILEE AND TOMB OF BEDE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The remains of the Benedictine monastery to which the care of these
+shrines was entrusted are south of the cathedral, forming three sides of
+a square, of which the cathedral nave was the fourth. Beyond is an open
+green, with the castle on the farther side and old buildings on either
+hand. From this green the castle is entered by a gateway with massive
+doors, but, while the structure is picturesque, it is not very ancient,
+excepting this gateway. It has mostly been rebuilt since the twelfth
+century. This was the palace of the bishops of Durham, of whom Antony
+Bek raised the power of the see to its highest point. He was prelate,
+soldier, and politician, equally at home in peace or war, at the head of
+his troops, celebrating a mass, or surrounded by his great officers of
+state. He was the first who intruded upon the solitude of St. Cuthbert
+by being buried in the cathedral. Here lived also Richard of Bury, noted
+as the most learned man of his generation north of the Alps, and the
+first English bibliomaniac. Bishop Hatfield also ruled at Durham, famous
+both as architect and warrior. Cardinal Wolsey lived here when
+Archbishop of York and his quarrel with Henry VIII. resulted in the
+Durham palatinate beginning to lose part of its power, so that in the
+days of his successor, Tunstall, it came to be the "peace of the king,"
+and not of the bishop, that was broken within its borders. Here also
+ruled the baron-bishop Crewe, who was both a temporal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> and a spiritual
+peer, and Bishop Butler, the profound thinker. But the bishops live
+there no longer, their palace being moved to Auckland, while the
+university is located in the castle. It is the Northern University,
+first projected in Cromwell's time. About a mile to the westward of
+Durham was fought the battle of Neville's Cross in October, 1346. This
+was a few months after Edward had won the battle of Crecy in France, and
+the King of Scotland, taking advantage of the absence of the English
+king and his army, swept over the Border with forty thousand men,
+devastating the entire country. His chief nobles accompanied him, and to
+encourage the troops the most sacred relic of Scotland, the "Black
+Rood," a crucifix of blackened silver, was present on the battlefield.
+This had been mysteriously delivered to David I. on the spot in
+Edinburgh where to commemorate it Holyrood Abbey was afterwards founded.
+But, though King Edward was in France, Queen Philippa was equal to the
+emergency. An army was quickly gathered under Earl Neville, and Durham
+sent its contingent headed by the warlike bishop. The invaders drew near
+the walls of Durham, and the English army, inferior in numbers, awaited
+them. To confront the "Black Rood," the bishop brought into camp an "ark
+of God" in obedience to a vision: this was one of the cathedral's
+choicest treasures, "the holy corporax cloth wherewith St. Cuthbert
+covered the chalice when he used to say mass." This, attached to the
+point of a spear, was displayed in sight of the army, while the monks
+upon the cathedral towers, in full view of the battlefield, prayed for
+victory for the defenders of St. Cuthbert's shrine. They fought three
+hours in the morning, the Scotch with axes, the English with arrows;
+but, as the watching monks turned from prayer to praise, the Scottish
+line wavered and broke, for the banner of St. Cuthbert proved too much
+for the Black Rood. The King of Scotland was wounded and captured, and
+fifteen thousand of his men were slain, including many nobles. The Black
+Rood was captured, and placed in the Nine Altars Chapel. Afterwards the
+"corporax cloth" was attached to a velvet banner, and became one of the
+great standards of England, being carried against Scotland by Richard
+II. and Henry IV., and it waved over the English army at Flodden. When
+not in use it was attached to St. Cuthbert's shrine. At the Reformation
+the Black Rood was lost, and St. Cuthbert's banner fell into possession
+of one Dean Whittingham, whose wife, the historian lamentingly says,
+"being a Frenchwoman, did most despitefully burn the same in her fire,
+to the open contempt and disgrace of all ancient relics." A narrow lane,
+deeply fringed with ferns, leads out of Durham over the hills to the
+westward of the town, where at a cross-road stand the mutilated remains
+of Earl Neville's Cross, set up to mark the battlefield, now a wide
+expanse of smoky country.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>LUMLEY CASTLE AND NEWCASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p>Following the Wear northward towards its mouth, at a short distance
+below Durham it passes the site of the Roman city of Conderum, which had
+been the resting-place of St. Cuthbert's bones until the Danish invasion
+drove them away, and it is now known as Chester-le-Street. Here, in the
+old church of St. Mary and St. Cuthbert, is the rude effigy of the saint
+which once surmounted his tomb, and here also is the "Aisle of Tombs," a
+chain of fourteen monumental effigies of the Lumleys, dating from Queen
+Elizabeth's reign. Lumley Castle, now the Earl of Scarborough's seat
+(for he too is a Lumley), is a short distance outside the town, on an
+eminence overlooking the Wear. It dates from the time of Edward I., but
+has been much modernized, the chief apartment in the interior being the
+Great Hall, sixty by thirty feet, with the Minstrel Gallery at the
+western end. Here on the wall is a life-size statue of the great
+ancestor of the Lumleys, Liulph the Saxon, seated on a red horse. North
+of this castle, across the Wear, is the Earl of Durham's seat, Lambton
+Castle, a Gothic and Tudor structure recently restored.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p320" id="p320"></a>
+<img src="images/p320.jpg" width="650" height="375" alt="SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF LUMLEY CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF LUMLEY CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 469px;">
+<a name="p321" id="p321"></a>
+<img src="images/p321.jpg" width="469" height="600" alt="GATEWAY, LUMLEY CASTLE, FROM THE WALK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, LUMLEY CASTLE, FROM THE WALK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Still journeying northward, we cross the hills between the Wear and the
+Tyne, and come to the New Castle which gives its name to
+Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the great coal shipping port. This is a
+strange-looking town, with red-tiled roofs, narrow, dingy, crooked
+streets, and myriads of chimneys belching<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> forth smoke from the many
+iron-works. These mills and furnaces are numerous also in the
+surrounding country, while the neighborhood is a network of railways
+carrying coal from the various lines to the shipping-piers. But this
+famous city is not all smoke and coal-dust: its New Castle is an ancient
+structure, rather dilapidated now, coming down from the reign of Henry
+II., approached by steep stairways up the rock on which the keep is
+perched. It has a fine hall, which is used as a museum of Roman relics,
+and from the roof is a grand view along the Tyne. This castle has a well
+ninety-three feet deep bored in the rock. Newcastle in its newer parts
+has some fine buildings. Grey Street, containing the theatre and
+Exchange, for a space of about four hundred yards is claimed to be the
+finest street in the kingdom. In Low Friars Street is the old chapel of
+the Black Friars monastery, where Baliol did homage to Edward III. for
+the Scottish throne. Sir William Armstrong lives at Jesmond, just
+outside Newcastle, and at Elswick, west of the city, are the extensive
+workshops where are made the Armstrong guns. The great High Level bridge
+across the Tyne Valley, built by Stephenson, with a railway on top of a
+roadway, and one thousand three hundred and thirty-seven feet long, is
+one of the chief engineering works at Newcastle. George Stephenson was
+born in 1781 at High Street House, Wylam, near Newcastle, while at
+Frudhoe Castle is a seat of the Duke of Northumberland. At Wallsend,
+three miles east of Newcastle, begins the celebrated Roman wall that
+crossed Britain, and was defended by their legions against incursions by
+the Scots. Its stone-and-turf walls, with the ditch on the north side,
+can be distinctly traced across the island.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>HEXHAM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 497px;">
+<a name="p322" id="p322"></a>
+<img src="images/p322.jpg" width="497" height="600" alt="HEXHAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HEXHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Ascending the Tyne, we come to Hexham, an imposing town as approached by
+the railway, with the Moat Hall and the abbey church occupying
+commanding features in the landscape. The Moat Hall is a large and
+ancient tower, notable for its narrow lights and cornice-like range of
+corbels. The abbey church, formerly the cathedral of St. Andrew, is a
+fine specimen of Early English architecture, of which only the transept
+and some other ruins remain, surmounted by a tower rising about one
+hundred feet and supported upon magnificent arches. Here is the shrine
+of the ancient chronicler. Prior Richard, an attractive oratory: and the
+town also produced another quaint historian of the Border troubles, John
+of Hexham. It is an antique place, and almost all of its old buildings
+bear testimony to the disturbed state of the Scottish frontier in the
+olden time, for not far away are the Cheviot Hills that form the
+boundary, and in which the Tyne takes its rise. Similar evidence is also
+given in Haltwhistle, Hexham's suburb, across the narrow river.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h3>ALNWICK CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p323-1" id="p323-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p323-1.jpg" width="600" height="493" alt="ALNWICK CASTLE, FROM THE LION BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ALNWICK CASTLE, FROM THE LION BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;">
+<a name="p324" id="p324"></a>
+<img src="images/p324.jpg" width="414" height="600" alt="THE BARBICAN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p323-2" id="p323-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p323-2.jpg" width="450" height="422" alt="THE BARBICAN GATE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN GATE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Journeying northward through Northumberland, and following the
+coastline&mdash;for here England narrows as the Scottish border is
+approached&mdash;the road crosses the diminutive river Alne, running through
+a deep valley, and standing in an imposing situation on its southern
+bank is the renowned stronghold of the Percies and guardian of the
+Border, Alnwick Castle. The great fortress, as we now see it, was built
+as a defence against the Scots, and was protected on the northward by
+the river-valley and a deep ravine, which formerly cut it off from the
+village, which is as ancient as the fortress, as its quaint old
+Pottergate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> Tower attests. Roman remains have been found on the site,
+and it was also inhabited by the Saxons, the castle at the time of the
+Norman Conquest being held by Gilbert Tysen, a powerful Northumbrian
+chief. It was then a primitive timber fortress in a wild region, for the
+earliest masonry works are Norman, and are attributed to Tysen's
+descendants. Alnwick Castle is a cluster of semicircular and angular
+bastions, surrounded by lofty walls, defended at intervals by towers,
+and enclosing a space of about five acres. It has three courts or wards,
+each defended formerly by massive gates, with portcullis, porters lodge,
+and a strong guardhouse, beneath which was a dungeon. Trap-doors are the
+only entrances to the latter, into which the prisoners were lowered by
+ropes. From the village the entrance to the castle is through the
+barbican, or outer gate, a work of gigantic strength and massive
+grandeur, which has been the scene of many a brave encounter. Near by is
+the Postern Tower, a sally-port adjacent to the "Bloody Gap" and
+"Hotspur's Chair." The history of this famous stronghold is practically
+the history of this portion of the realm, for in all the Border warfare
+that continued for centuries it was conspicuous. In the reign of William
+Rufus it was gallantly defended by Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, in
+the memorable siege by the Scots under King Malcolm III. The garrison
+were about surrendering, being almost starved, when a private soldier
+undertook their deliverance. He rode out to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> besiegers' camp,
+carrying the keys of the castle dangling from his lance, and presented
+himself a suppliant before the Scottish king, as if to deliver up the
+keys. Malcolm advanced to receive them, and the soldier pierced him
+through the heart. Malcolm fell dead, and in the confusion the bold
+trooper sprang upon his horse, dashed across the river, and was safe.
+Malcolm's eldest son, Prince Edward, advanced rashly to avenge the
+king's death, and fell mortally wounded from the castle. Hammond's Ford,
+named for the bold trooper, marks the spot where he and his horse swam
+across the Alne, which at the time was swollen. In memory of Malcolm, a
+cross stands on the spot where he was slain, and near by is Malcolm's
+Well and the ruins of St. Leonard's Chapel, built for the unfortunate
+king's expiation. Upon the cross the inscription states that Malcolm
+fell November 13, 1093, and that the original cross, decayed by time,
+was restored by his descendant, Elizabeth, Duchess of Northumberland, in
+1774. Eustace de Vesci, who built St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> Leonard's Chapel, lived in the
+days of Henry I. and Stephen, and founded the abbey of Alnwick. King
+David of Scotland captured the old timber castle there in 1135 on his
+great invasion of England, and Eustace afterwards built the first
+masonry work of Alnwick Castle, traces of his walls having since been
+found.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p326-2" id="p326-2"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p326-1/326-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p326-1.jpg" width="403" height="600"
+ alt="THE PERCY BEDSTEAD." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p326-2.jpg" width="290" height="600"
+ alt="THE PERCY CROSS." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PERCY BEDSTEAD.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PERCY CROSS.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p325" id="p325"></a><span class="caption">THE EASTERN ANGLE OF THE BARBICAN.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p325.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:420px; height:350px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:340px; height:250px;"> </div>
+
+<p><br /><br />Alnwick descended to William, son of Eustace, and in 1174, William the
+Lion, returning from an invasion of Cumberland, passed before the
+castle, and was captured and sent a prisoner into England. Alnwick
+descended to William's son Eustace, who was visited by King John in
+1209, and the king there received the homage of Alexander of Scotland.
+Eustace was one of the chief barons who wrested Magna Charta from John,
+and in the closing year of that reign met his death from an arrow before
+Barnard Castle. Henry III. visited Alnwick, and the great Edward I. was
+there several times as the guest of John de Vesci near the close of the
+thirteenth century. The Barons de Vesci soon afterwards became extinct,
+and then the warlike bishop of Durham, Antony Bek, came in and grabbed
+the castle. He sold it in 1309 to Henry de Percy, and from this dates
+the rise of the great family of the northern Border, who have held
+Alnwick for nearly six centuries, its present owner being his
+descendant, Algernon George Percy, Duke of Northumberland, in whose
+veins flows the blood of so many great families that he can use nine
+hundred heraldic devices on his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> armorial bearings, including those of
+many kings and princes. Henry de Percy became the leader of the Border
+barons, and, although living at Alnwick only five years, seems to have
+rebuilt most of the castle, his son completing it. The Percies became
+the Earls of Northumberland, and such warlike lives did they lead (as,
+for instance, young Henry Percy, "Hotspur") that it is noted that Henry
+Algernon, the fifth earl, was the first of the race who died in bed. The
+next of the line was executed for rebellion, and the next was beheaded
+at York for conspiring against Queen Elizabeth. The eighth earl,
+favoring Mary Queen of Scots, was imprisoned in the Tower, and was one
+day found in his chamber shot through the heart. Henry, the ninth earl,
+was implicated in the Gunpowder Plot, imprisoned in the Tower, and fined
+$250,000. After his release he spent the remainder of his life at
+Petworth; Alnwick was neglected; and the direct line of descent
+ultimately ended with Elizabeth, daughter of the eleventh earl, who
+married the Duke of Somerset in 1682. Her grandson, Algernon, became
+Earl of Northumberland, and his daughter, Elizabeth Seymour, was the
+ancestress of the present family, her husband being created the first
+Duke of Northumberland. Alnwick was then a ruin, but he restored it, and
+subsequently, under the direction of the architect Salvin, it was
+completely rebuilt, everything worthy of preservation being kept, and
+the new work being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> adapted to the days of the earlier Percies, whose
+achievements gave the stronghold such world-wide renown.</p>
+<p style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</p></div>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;">
+<a name="p328" id="p328"></a>
+<img src="images/p328.jpg" width="257" height="600" alt="EARL HUGH&#39;S TOWER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EARL HUGH&#39;S TOWER.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p327" id="p327"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">CONSTABLE&#39;S TOWER.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p327.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:500px; height:480px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:380px; height:120px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>This famous castle is full of recollections of the great men who
+formerly inhabited it. The Constable's Tower, remaining mostly in its
+ancient condition, has in an upper apartment arms for fifteen hundred
+men, the Percy tenantry, while in the rooms beneath is deposited the
+ancient armor. "Hotspur's Chair" is the name given to a seated recess of
+the Ravine Tower which was Hotspur's favorite resort, where he sat while
+his troops exercised in the castle-yard beneath, and where he had an
+admirable lookout to discover an approaching enemy. Through the
+loopholes on either side of the seat in this commanding tower there is
+an extensive prospect over the valley of the Alne and to the distant
+seacoast. The "Bloody Gap," another noted site in the castle, is between
+the Ravine and Round Towers. It was the name given to a breach in the
+wall made by the Scots during the Border wars, although the exact time
+is unknown. According to tradition, three hundred Scots fell within the
+breach, and they were ultimately beaten off. Many arrows have been found
+in the adjacent walls, so located as to indicate they were shot from the
+battlements and windows of the keep when the assailants were making this
+breach. Alnwick Castle was restored by Salvin with strict regard to the
+rules of medi&aelig;val military architecture. When it was the great Border
+stronghold its governor commanded a force of no less than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> two thousand
+men, who were employed in a complicated system of day and night watching
+to guard against forays by the Scots. The day watchers began at
+daylight, and blew a horn on the approach of the foe, when all men were
+bound on pain of death to respond for the general defence. The great
+feature of the restored castle is the Prudhoe Tower, built about
+twenty-five years ago. After entering the barbican, which admits to the
+outer ward, the visitor passes between the Abbot's Tower on the left and
+the Corner Tower and Auditor's Tower on the right. Earl Hugh's turreted
+tower also rises boldly from the battlements. Passing through the middle
+gatehouse, the keep, constructed in the form of a polygon around a
+court, is seen on the right hand, and in the gateway-wall is Percy's
+famous draw-well, with a statue of St. James above blessing the waters.
+Opposite this draw-well is a covered drive which leads to the entrance
+of Prudhoe Tower. This tower is a magnificent structure, containing the
+family and state-apartments, built and decorated in the Italian style,
+and approached by a staircase twelve feet wide. It was built at enormous
+cost, and alongside is a vaulted kitchen of ample proportions,
+constructed in the baronial style, where there are sufficient facilities
+to prepare<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> dinner for six hundred persons at one time, while the
+subterranean regions contain bins for three hundred tons of coal. Such
+is this great baronial Border stronghold, replete with memories of the
+warlike Percies. From here Hotspur sallied forth to encounter the
+marauding Scottish force which under Douglas had laid waste England as
+far as the gates of York, and almost within the sight of the castle is
+the bloody field of Otterbourn, where Douglas fell by Hotspur's own
+hand, though the English lost the day and Hotspur himself was captured.
+Again, as war's fortunes change, just north of Alnwick is Humbleton
+Hill, where the Scots had to fly before England's "deadly arrow-hail,"
+leaving their leader, Douglas, with five wounds and only one eye, a
+prisoner in the hands of the Percies. It was from Alnwick's battlements
+that the countess watched "the stout Earl of Northumberland" set forth,
+"his pleasure in the Scottish woods three summer days to take"&mdash;an
+expedition from which he never returned. Such was the history for
+centuries of this renowned castle, which is regarded as presenting the
+most perfect specimen now existing, perhaps in the world, of the feudal
+stronghold of medi&aelig;val days.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p329-1" id="p329-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p329-1.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="THE DRAW-WELL AND NORMAN GATEWAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DRAW-WELL AND NORMAN GATEWAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p329-2" id="p329-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 399px;">
+<img src="images/p329-2.jpg" width="399" height="450" alt="Gravestone in the Churchyard of St. Michael &amp; all
+Angels." title="" />
+
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><br />And now let us turn from the castle to the church. Almost alongside of
+it is St. Michael's Church, built with battlements, as if prepared as
+much for defence as for worship, and a watch-tower, made evidently for a
+lookout and to hold a beacon to warn of the approach of forays. This was
+one of the regular chain of Border beacons. Within the church an old
+iron-work lectern still holds the "Book of the Homilies," while the
+churchyard is full of ancient gravestones. Alnwick Abbey once existed
+down alongside the river, under the protection of the castle, but it has
+been long since ruined, and its remains have served as a quarry for the
+village buildings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> until little of them remains. Its extensive domains
+are now part of the Duke's Park, and another contributor to this park
+was Hulne Priory, the earliest Carmelite monastery in England, founded
+in 1240. It stood upon a projecting spur of rising land above the Alne,
+backed by rich woods, but was neither large nor wealthy, as the
+neighboring abbey eclipsed it. The discipline of the Carmelites was
+rigorous. Each friar had a coffin for his cell and slept on straw, while
+every morning he dug a shovelful of earth for his grave and crept on his
+knees in prayer. Silence, solitude, and strict fasting were the
+injunction upon all, and their buildings were sternly simple. The
+porter's lodge and curtain-wall enclosing Hulne Priory still stand, and
+its outline can be traced, though the ruins are scant. Yet this, like
+all else at Alnwick, bears evidence of the troublous times on the
+Border. The most important of its remaining buildings is an embattled
+tower of refuge from the Scottish invader. Its inscription states that
+it was built in 1448 by Sir Henry Percy, fourth Earl of Northumberland.
+Opposite Hulne Priory is Brislee Hill, which presents the most renowned
+view in Alnwick Park. A tower rises among the trees upon the crest of
+the hill from which bonfires now blaze on occasions of festivity. Here,
+over the park, can be seen the castle and town, and beyond, to the
+eastward, the sea, with its coast-castles as far north as Bamborough.
+The little Coquet Island in the distance breaks the expanse of blue
+waters. To the westward beyond the moors rises the sharp outline of the
+Scottish Border, the Cheviot Hills, running off towards the north-east,
+and containing in their depressions the passes through which the Scots
+used to pour when they harried Northern England and roused the Alnwick
+warriors to defend their firesides.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 247px;">
+<a name="p330-1" id="p330-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p330-1.jpg" width="247" height="450" alt="LECTERN, ST. MICHAEL&#39;S CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LECTERN, ST. MICHAEL&#39;S CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 430px;">
+<a name="p330-2" id="p330-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p330-2.jpg" width="430" height="600" alt="PORTER&#39;S LODGE, HULNE PRIORY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTER&#39;S LODGE, HULNE PRIORY.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>FORD CASTLE AND FLODDEN FIELD.</h3>
+
+<p>Northward, past the extremity of the Cheviots, flows the Tweed, and one
+of its tributaries on the English side is the Till, which drains the
+bases of those sharp hills, that rise nearly twenty-seven hundred feet.
+Here was Ford Castle, and here was fought the terrible Border battle of
+Flodden in 1513. Ford Castle dated from the time of Edward I., and its
+proximity to the Border made it the object of many assaults. In the
+fifteenth century it was held by Sir William Heron, and a few days
+before the battle of Flodden the Scots, under James IV., during Sir
+William's captivity in Scotland, stormed and destroyed Ford, taking
+captive Lady Heron, who had endeavored to defend it. In the last century
+Ford was restored by the Marquis of Waterford, to whom it had descended,
+so that it now appears as a fine baronial mansion, surmounted by towers
+and battlements, and standing in a commanding situation overlooking the
+valley of the Till, with the lofty Cheviots closing the view a few miles
+to the south-west, their peaks affording ever-varying scenes as the
+season changes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p331" id="p331"></a>
+<img src="images/p331.jpg" width="600" height="436" alt="FORD TOWER, OVERLOOKING FLODDEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FORD TOWER, OVERLOOKING FLODDEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p332" id="p332"></a>
+<img src="images/p332.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="THE CHEVIOTS, FROM FORD CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHEVIOTS, FROM FORD CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;">
+<a name="p333" id="p333"></a>
+<img src="images/p333.jpg" width="379" height="600" alt="FLODDEN, FROM THE KING&#39;S BEDCHAMBER, FORD CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FLODDEN, FROM THE KING&#39;S BEDCHAMBER, FORD CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great attraction of the view, however, is the famous hill of
+Flodden, about a mile to the westward, crowned by a plantation of dark
+fir trees, and presenting, with the different aspects of the weather,
+ever-changeful scenery,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> recalling now the "dark Flodden" and anon the
+"red Flodden" of the balladists. Across the valley from Ford Castle, and
+at the foot of this fir-crowned hill, was fought one of the bitterest
+contests of the Border. Now, the famous battlefield is a
+highly-cultivated farm and sheep-pasture. James IV. of Scotland had
+unjustly determined to make war upon England, and he set out upon it in
+opposition to the real desire of his countrymen, and even against the
+omens of Heaven, as the people believed. A few days before he departed
+for his army the king attended St. Michael's Church, adjacent to his
+stately palace at Linlithgow, when a venerable stranger entered the
+aisle where the king knelt. The hair from his uncovered head flowed down
+over his shoulders, and his blue robe was confined by a linen girdle.
+With an air of majesty he walked up to the kneeling king, and said,
+"Sire, I am sent to warn thee not to proceed in thy present undertaking,
+for if thou dost it shall not fare well either with thyself or those who
+go with thee." He vanished then in the awe-stricken crowd. But this was
+not the only warning. At midnight, prior to the departure of the troops
+for the south, it is related that a voice not mortal proclaimed a
+summons from the market cross, where proclamations were usually read,
+calling upon all who should march against the English to appear within
+the space of forty days before the court of the Evil One. Sir Walter
+Scott says that this summons, like the apparition at Linlithgow, was
+probably an attempt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> by those averse to the war to impose upon the
+superstitious temper of James IV. But the king started at the head of
+the finest army, and supported by the strongest artillery-train, that
+had down to that time been brought into the field by any Scottish
+monarch. He entered England August 22d. without having formed any
+definite plan of action. He wasted two days on the Till, besieged Norham
+for a week, when it surrendered, and then besieged Ford. These delays
+gave the English time to assemble. King James, as above related,
+captured Lady Heron at Ford. She was beautiful and deceitful, and soon
+enthralled the gay king in her spells, while all the time she was in
+communication with the English. Thus James wasted his time in dalliance,
+and, as Scott tells us,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The monarch o'er the siren hung,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And beat the measure as she sung,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, pressing closer and more near,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He whispered praises in her ear."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="p335" id="p335"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 310px;">
+<img src="images/p335.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="THE CRYPT, FORD CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CRYPT, FORD CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>All the time the energetic Earl of Surrey was marshalling the English
+hosts, and, marching with twenty-six thousand men northward through
+Durham, received there the sacred banner of St. Cuthbert. On September
+4th. Surrey challenged James to battle, which the king accepted against
+the advice of his best councillors. The Scots had become restive under
+the king's do-nothing policy, and many of them left the camp and
+returned home with the booty already acquired. James selected a strong
+position on Flodden Hill, with both flanks protected and having the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span>
+deep and sluggish waters of the Till flowing in front. Surrey advanced
+and reconnoitred, and then sent the king a herald requesting him to
+descend into the plain, as he acted ungallantly in thus practically
+shutting himself up in a fortress. The king would not admit the herald.
+Surrey then attempted a stratagem. Crossing the Till on the 8th, he
+encamped at Barmoor Wood, about two miles from the Scottish position,
+concealing his movement from the enemy. On the 9th he marched down the
+Till to near its confluence with the Tweed, and recrossed to the eastern
+bank. This, too, was uninterrupted by the Scots, who remained strangely
+inactive, though it is recorded that the chief Scottish nobles implored
+the king to attack the English. The aged Earl Angus begged him either to
+assault the English or retreat. "If you are afraid, Angus," replied the
+king, "you can go home." The master of artillery implored the king to
+allow him to bring his guns to bear upon the English, but James returned
+the reply that he would meet his antagonist on equal terms in a fair
+field, and scorned to take an advantage. Then Surrey drew up his line
+between James and the Border, and advanced up the valley of the Till
+towards the Scots. The king set fire to the temporary huts on the
+hillside where he had been encamped, and descended to the valley, the
+smoke concealing the movements of each army from the other; but Surrey's
+stratagem was thus successful in drawing him from his strong position.
+The English van was led by Lord Thomas Howard, Surrey commanding the
+main body, Sir Edward Stanley the rear, and Lord Dacre the reserves. The
+Scottish advance was led by the Earls of Home and Huntley, the king
+leading the centre, the Earls of Lennox and Argyle the rear, and the
+reserves, consisting of the flower of the Lothians, were under the Earl
+of Bothwell. The battle began at four in the afternoon, when the
+Scottish advance charged upon the right wing of the English advance and
+routed it. Dacre promptly galloped forward with his reserves, and
+restored the fortunes of the day for the English right. The main bodies
+in the mean time became engaged in a desperate contest. The Scottish
+king in his ardor forgot that the duties of a commander were distinct
+from the indiscriminate valor of a knight, and placed himself in front
+of his spearmen, surrounded by his nobles, who, while they deplored the
+gallant weakness of such conduct, disdained to leave their sovereign
+unprotected. Dacre and Howard, having defeated the Scottish wing in
+front of them, at this time turned their full strength against the flank
+of the Scottish centre. It was a terrific combat, the Scots fighting
+desperately in an unbroken ring around their king. The battle lasted
+till night, and almost annihilated the Scottish forces. Of all the
+splendid host, embracing the flower of the nobility and chivalry of the
+kingdom, only a few haggard and wounded stragglers returned to tell the
+tale. The Eng<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>lish victors lost five thousand slain, and the Scots more
+than twice that number, and among them the greatest men of the land.
+They left on the field their king, two bishops, two mitred abbots,
+twenty-seven peers and their sons, and there was scarcely a family of
+any position in Scotland that did not lose a relative there. The young
+Earl of Caithness and his entire band of three hundred followers
+perished on the field. The body of the dead king, afterwards found by
+Dacre, was taken to Berwick and presented to his commander, who had it
+embalmed and conveyed to the monastery of Sheyne in Surrey. The poetic
+instincts of the Scots were deeply moved by the woes of the fatal field
+of Flodden, and innumerable poems and ballads record the sad story, the
+crowning work of all being Scott's <i>Marmion</i>.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>BAMBOROUGH AND GRACE DARLING.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p336" id="p336"></a>
+<img src="images/p336.jpg" width="450" height="364" alt="GRACE DARLING&#39;S MONUMENT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GRACE DARLING&#39;S MONUMENT.</span>
+</div>
+<p>North of Flodden Field, and not far distant, is the Scottish Border,
+which in this part is made by the river Tweed, with Berwick at its
+mouth. The two kingdoms, so long in hot quarrel, are now united by a
+magnificent railway-bridge, elevated one hundred and twenty-five feet
+above the river and costing $600,000. For miles along the coast the
+railway runs almost upon the edge of the ocean, elevated on the cliffs
+high above the sea, while off the coast are Holy Isle and Lindisfarne.
+Here St. Cuthbert was the bishop, and its abbey is a splendid ruin,
+while on the rocky islet of Farne he lived a hermit, encompassing his
+cell with a mound so high that he could see nothing but the heavens. Two
+miles from Farne, on the mainland, was the royal city of Bebban Burgh,
+now Bamborough, the castle standing upon an almost perpendicular rock
+rising one hundred and fifty feet and overlooking the sea. This was King
+Ida's castle, a Border stronghold in ancient times whose massive keep
+yet stands. It is now a charity-school, a lighthouse, and a life-saving
+station. Thirty beds are kept in the restored castle for shipwrecked
+sailors, and Bamborough is to the mariner on that perilous coast what
+the convent of St. Bernard is to the traveller in the Alps. Here, at
+this Border haven, we will close this descriptive tour by recalling
+Bamborough's most pleasant memory&mdash;that of Grace Darling. She was a
+native of the place, and was lodged, clothed, and educated at the school
+in Bamborough Castle. Her remains lie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> in Bamborough churchyard under an
+altar-tomb bearing her recumbent figure and surmounted by a Gothic
+canopy. She is represented lying on a plaited straw mattrass and holding
+an oar. All this coast is beset with perils and wrecks have been
+frequent. The islet of Farne and a cluster of other rocks off shore add
+to the dangers, and on some of them there are lighthouses. One of these
+rocks&mdash;Longstone Island&mdash;Grace Darling rendered memorable by her
+intrepidity in perilling her life during the storm of September, 1838.
+Her father was the keeper of Longstone Light, and on the night of
+September 6 the Forfarshire steamer, proceeding from Hull to Dundee, was
+wrecked there. Of fifty-three persons on board, thirty-eight perished,
+and on the morning of the 7th, Grace, then about twenty-three years of
+age, discovered the survivors clinging to the rocks and remnants of the
+steamer, in imminent danger of being washed off by the returning tide.
+With her parents' assistance, but against their remonstrance, Grace
+launched a boat, and with her father succeeded in rescuing nine of them,
+while six escaped by other means. Presents and demonstrations of
+admiration were showered upon her from all parts of the kingdom, and a
+public subscription of $3500 was raised for her benefit. Poor Grace died
+four years later of consumption. A monument to her has been placed in
+St. Cuthbert's Chapel on Longstone Island, and upon it is this
+inscription, from Wordsworth:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Pious and pure, modest, and yet so brave,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Though young, so wise&mdash;though meek, so resolute.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Oh that winds and waves could speak</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of things which their united power called forth</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the pure depths of her humanity!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A maiden gentle, yet at duty's call</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Firm and unflinching as the lighthouse reared</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On the island-rock, her lonely dwelling-place;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or, like the invincible rock itself, that braves,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Age after age, the hostile elements,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As when it guarded holy Cuthbert's cell.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"All night the storm had raged, nor ceased, nor paused,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When, as day broke, the maid, through misty air,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Espies far off a wreck amid the surf,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beating on one of those disastrous isles&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Half of a vessel, half&mdash;no more; the rest</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Had vanished!"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI.</h2>
+
+
+<h3>LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Cotswolds&mdash;The River Severn&mdash;Gloucester&mdash;Berkeley Castle&mdash;New
+Inn&mdash;Gloucester Cathedral&mdash;Lampreys&mdash;Tewkesbury; its Mustard,
+Abbey, and Battle&mdash;Wercester; its Battle&mdash;Charles II.'s
+Escape&mdash;Worcester Cathedral&mdash;The Malvern Hills&mdash;Worcestershire
+Beacon&mdash;Herefordshire Beacon&mdash;Great Malvern&mdash;St. Anne's Well&mdash;The
+River Wye&mdash;Clifford Castle&mdash;Hereford&mdash;Old Butcher's Row&mdash;Nell
+Gwynne's Birthplace&mdash;Ross&mdash;The Man of Ross&mdash;Ross Church and its
+Trees&mdash;Walton Castle&mdash;Goodrich Castle&mdash;Forest of
+Dean&mdash;Coldwell&mdash;Symond's Yat&mdash;The Dowards&mdash;Monmouth&mdash;Kymin
+Hill&mdash;Raglan Castle&mdash;Redbrook&mdash;St. Briard Castle&mdash;Tintern
+Abbey&mdash;The Wyncliff&mdash;Wyntour's Leap&mdash;Chepstow Castle&mdash;The River
+Monnow&mdash;The Golden Valley&mdash;The Black Mountains&mdash;Pontrilas
+Court&mdash;Ewias Harold&mdash;Abbey Dore&mdash;The Scyrrid
+Vawr&mdash;Wormridge&mdash;Kilpeck&mdash;Oldcastle&mdash;Kentchurch&mdash;Grosmont&mdash;The Vale
+of Usk&mdash;Abergavenny&mdash;Llanthony Priory&mdash;Walter Savage
+Landor&mdash;Capel-y-Ffyn&mdash;Newport&mdash;Penarth Roads&mdash;Cardiff&mdash;The
+Rocking-Stone&mdash;Llandaff&mdash;Caerphilly Castle and its Leaning
+Tower&mdash;Swansea&mdash;The Mumbles&mdash;Oystermouth Castle&mdash;Neath
+Abbey&mdash;Caermarthen&mdash;Tenby&mdash;Manorbeer Castle&mdash;Golden
+Grove&mdash;Pembroke&mdash;Milford&mdash;Haverfordwest&mdash;Milford Haven&mdash;Pictou
+Castle&mdash;Carew Castle.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<h3>GLOUCESTER.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p338" id="p338"></a>
+<img src="images/p338.jpg" width="550" height="298" alt="GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Journeying westward from the metropolis and beyond the sources of the
+Thames, let us mount to the tops of the Cotswold Hills, in which they
+take their rise, and look down upon the valley of the noble Severn River
+beyond. We have already seen the Severn at Shrewsbury, Wenlock, and
+Bridgenorth, and, uniting with the classic Avon, it drains the western
+slopes of the Cotswolds, and, flowing through a deep valley between them
+and the Malvern Hills, finally debouches through a broad estuary into
+the British Channel. There is much of interest to the tourist along the
+banks and in neighborhood of this well-known river. As we stand upon the
+elevations of the Cotswolds and look over "Sabrina fair," the lower part
+of its valley is seen as a broad and fertile plain, and the Severn's
+"glassy, cool, translucent wave," as the poet has it, flows through a
+land of meadows, orchards, and cornfields, with the hills of the Forest
+of Dean rising on the western horizon. Alongside the river is the
+cathedral city of Gloucester, the d&eacute;p&ocirc;t for a rich agricultural region
+and for the mining wealth of Dean Forest, the Berkeley Canal leading
+from its docks for sixteen miles down the Severn until the deep water of
+the estuary is reached. The Romans early saw the importance of this
+place as a military post, and founded Glevum here, upon their Ermine
+Street<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> road, as an outpost fortress upon the border-land of the
+Silures. Fragments of tessellated pavements, coins, and other relics
+from time to time exhumed attest the extent of the Roman settlement.
+When the Britons succeeded the Romans, this settlement became gradually
+transformed into Gleawecesore, forming part of the kingdom of Mercia,
+and in the seventh century &AElig;thelred bestowed it upon Osric, who founded
+a monastery here. Athelstan died here in 941, and a few years afterwards
+the Danes, who overrun and devastated almost the whole of England,
+burned the town and monastery. The history of Gloucester, however, was
+without stirring incidents, excepting an occasional destructive fire,
+until the siege took place in the Civil War, its people devoting
+themselves more to commerce than to politics, and in the early part of
+the seventeenth century engaging extensively in the manufacture of pins.
+Gloucester, however, gave the title to several earls and dukes,
+generally men not much envied; as, for instance, Richard Crookback, who
+sent from Gloucester the order for the murder of his nephews, the young
+princes, in the Tower. But the town never took kindly to him, and warmly
+welcomed Richmond on his avenging march to Bosworth Field. The siege of
+Gloucester was made by King Charles's troops, the citizens having warmly
+espoused the cause of the Parliament and strongly fortified their city,
+mounting guns for its defence which they got from London. A polygonal
+line of fortifications surrounded Gloucester, which was then much
+smaller than now, and the bastions came down to the river, with outlying
+works to defend a small suburb on the opposite bank.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> The Cavaliers were
+in great strength in Western England, and the malignity of the
+Gloucester pin-makers seriously embarrassed them. On August 10, 1643,
+the siege began with a summons to surrender, which the authorities
+refused. Parts of the suburbs were then burned, and next morning a
+bombardment began, red-hot balls and heavy stones being plentifully
+thrown into the place, knocking the houses into sad havoc, but in no
+wise damping the sturdy courage of the defenders. They replied bravely
+with their cannon and made repeated sorties, which inflicted serious
+damage upon the besiegers. After over three weeks of this sport, the
+Royalists shot an arrow into the town, September 3, with a message in
+these words: "These are to let you understand your god Waller hath
+forsaken you and hath retired himself to the Tower of London; Essex is
+beaten like a dog: yield to the king's mercy in time; otherwise, if we
+enter perforce, no quarter for such obstinate traitorly rogues.&mdash;From a
+Well-wisher." This conciliatory message was defiantly answered in a
+prompt reply signed "Nicholas Cudgelyouwell;" and two days later, Prince
+Rupert having suffered a defeat elsewhere, the Cavaliers abandoned the
+siege. Charles II., upon his restoration, took care to have himself
+proclaimed with great pomp at Gloucester, and also took the precaution
+to destroy its fortifications. The castle, which had stood since the
+days of the Norman Conquest, then disappeared. The west gate, the last
+remains of the walls, was removed, with the old bridge across the
+Severn, in 1809, to make room for a fine new bridge. This structure is
+chiefly known through a humorous connection that Thackeray has given it
+with King George III. That monarch made a royal visit to Gloucester, and
+in his lectures on the "Four Georges" Thackeray says: "One morning,
+before anybody else was up, the king walked about Gloucester town,
+pushed over Molly the housemaid with her pail, who was scrubbing the
+doorsteps, ran up stairs and woke all the equerries in their bedrooms,
+and then trotted down to the bridge, where by this time a dozen of louts
+were assembled. 'What! is this Gloucester new bridge?' asked our
+gracious monarch; and the people answered him, 'Yes, Your
+Majesty.'&mdash;'Why, then, my boys, let's have a hurray!' After giving them
+which intellectual gratification he went home to breakfast."</p>
+
+<p>The town is quaint and picturesque, but the buildings generally are
+modern, most of them dating from the days of good Queen Anne, but they
+exhibit great variety in design. The most noted of the older Gloucester
+houses is the "New Inn," on Northgate Street. After the murder of Edward
+II. at Berkeley Castle, not far from Gloucester, where he had been
+imprisoned in a dungeon in the keep, in 1327, his remains were brought
+to the abbey church at Gloucester for interment, a shrine being raised
+over them by the monks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span> The king was murdered with fiendish cruelty.
+Lord Berkeley at the castle would willingly have protected him, but he
+fell sick; and one dark September night Edward was given over to two
+villains named Gurney and Ogle. The ancient chronicler says that the
+"screams and shrieks of anguish were heard even so far as the town, so
+that many, being awakened therewith from their sleep, as they themselves
+confessed, prayed heartily to God to receive his soul, for they
+understood by those cries what the matter meant." The king's shrine in
+Gloucester naturally attracted many pilgrims, and the New Inn was built
+about 1450 for their accommodation. It is a brick-and-timber house, with
+corridors leading to the chambers running along the sides of the inner
+court and reached by outside stairways, as was the common construction
+of houses of public entertainment three or four centuries ago. The inn
+remains almost as it was then, having been but slightly modernized. Most
+of the pilgrims to the shrine brought offerings with them, and hence the
+pains taken for their accommodation. The usual tale is told about a
+subterranean passage connecting this inn with the cathedral. New Inn is
+enormously strong and massive, and covers a broad surface, being
+constructed around two courtyards.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p340" id="p340"></a>
+<img src="images/p340.jpg" width="600" height="532" alt="NEW INN, GLOUCESTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NEW INN, GLOUCESTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Gloucester has many churches in proportion to its size&mdash;in fact, so many
+that "as sure as God is in Gloucester" used to be a proverb. Oliver
+Cromwell, though the city had stood sturdily by him, differed with this,
+however, for a saying of his is still quoted, that "there be more
+churches than godliness in Gloucester." In later days the first
+Sunday-school in England was opened here, and just outside the city are
+the fragmentary remains of the branch of Llanthony Priory to which the
+monks migrated from the Welsh Border. The chief attraction of
+Gloucester, however, is the cathedral, and the ruins of the Benedictine
+monastery to which it was formerly attached. The cathedral is of
+considerable size, being four hundred and twenty feet long, and is
+surmounted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> by a much-admired central tower. The light and graceful
+tracery of its parapets and pinnacles gives especial character to the
+exterior of Gloucester Cathedral, and when the open-work tracery is
+projected against the red glow of sunset an unrivalled effect is
+produced. This tower is two hundred and twenty-five feet high, and forms
+an admirable centre to the masses of buildings clustered around it. The
+monastery, founded by Osric in the seventh century, stood on this site,
+but after the Danes burned it a convent was built, which passed into the
+hands of the Benedictines in 1022. One of these monks was the "Robert of
+Gloucester" who in 1272 wrote in rhyme a chronicle of English history
+from the siege of Troy to the death of Henry II. Their church was
+repeatedly burned and rebuilt, but it was not until the shrine of Edward
+II. was placed in it that the religious establishment throve. The rich
+harvest brought by the pilgrims to this shrine led to the reconstruction
+of the older church, by encasing the shell with Perpendicular work in
+the lower part and completely rebuilding the upper portion. This was in
+the fourteenth century, and by the close of the next century the
+cathedral appeared as it is now seen. Entering the fine southern porch,
+we are ushered into the splendid Norman nave bordered by exceptionally
+high piers, rising thirty feet, and surmounted by a low triforium and
+clerestory. The design is rather dwarfed by thus impoverishing the upper
+stories. The choir has an enormous east window, made wider than the
+choir itself by an ingenious arrangement of the walls; and this retains
+most of the old stained glass. The choir has recently been restored, and
+in the old woodwork the seat of the mayor is retained opposite the
+throne of the bishop. On the floor an oblong setting of tiles marks the
+grave of William the Conqueror's son Robert, who died at Cardiff, and
+whose monument stands in an adjoining chapel. The Lady Chapel is east of
+the choir, and has a "whispering gallery" over its entrance. Beneath the
+choir is the crypt, antedating the Norman Conquest, and one of the
+remains of the original church of the Benedictines. On the south side of
+the choir is the monument to Edward II., standing in an archway. The
+effigy is of alabaster, and is surmounted by a beautiful sculptured
+canopy. The cloisters north of the nave are most attractive, the roof
+being vaulted in fan-patterns of great richness. There can still be seen
+along the north walk of these cloisters the lavatories for the monks,
+with the troughs into which the water flowed and the recesses in the
+wall above to contain the towels. Beyond the cloisters are the other
+remains of the monastery, now generally incorporated into houses.
+Gloucester has been a bishop's see since the reign of Henry VIII., and
+one of its bishops was the zealous Reformer who was martyred in sight of
+his own cathedral&mdash;John Hooper: his statue stands in St. Mary's Square,
+where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> Queen Mary had him burned as a heretic. Gloucester also has its
+Spa, a chalybeate spring recently discovered in the south-eastern
+suburbs, but the town is chiefly known to fame abroad by its salmon and
+lampreys. The lamprey is caught in the Severn and potted for export,
+having been considered a dainty by the epicures of remote as well as
+modern times. It was in great request in the time of King John, when we
+are told "the men of Gloucester gave forty marks to that king to have
+his good will, because they regarded him not as they ought in the matter
+of their lampreys." This was the favorite dish of Henry I. (Beauclerc),
+and over-indulgence in lampreys finally killed him. It was the custom
+until 1836 for the corporation of Gloucester to send every Christmas to
+the sovereign "a lamprey pie with a raised crust."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p342" id="p342"></a>
+<img src="images/p342.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="MONKS&#39; LAVATORY, GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MONKS&#39; LAVATORY, GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>TEWKESBURY.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p343" id="p343"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 397px;">
+<img src="images/p343.jpg" width="397" height="450" alt="TEWKESBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEWKESBURY.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Let us ascend the valley of the Severn, and in the centre of its broad
+plain, at the confluence of the Avon, find another great religious house
+in the smaller but equally noted town of Tewkesbury. All around are rich
+meadows, and here, away from the hills, was the ideal site for a
+monastery according to the ancient notion, where the languor of the
+gentle air prevented the blood flowing with too quick pulse. The Avon,
+spanned by an old arched bridge, washes one side of the town; the
+massive abbey-tower rises above a fringe of foliage and orchards, while
+on the one hand the horizon is bounded by the steep Cotswolds, and on
+the other by the broken masses of the Malverns. Close to the town, on
+its western verge, flows the Severn, crossed by a fine modern iron
+bridge. Tewkesbury is known to fame by its mustard, its abbey, and its
+battle. The renown of the Tewkesbury mustard goes back for at least
+three centuries: as "thick as Tewkesbury mustard" was a proverb of
+Falstaff's. That old-time historian Fuller says of it, "The best in
+England (to take no larger compass) is made at Tewkesbury. It is very
+wholesome for the clearing of the head,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> moderately taken." But,
+unfortunately, the reputation of Tewkesbury for this commodity has
+declined in modern times.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p344" id="p344"></a>
+<img src="images/p344.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="TEWKESBURY ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEWKESBURY ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The history of Tewkesbury Abbey comes from misty antiquity, and it is
+thought by some to have been named "Dukes-borough" from two ancient
+Britons, Dukes Odda and Dudda, but others say it commemorates a
+missionary monk named Theoe, who founded a little church there in the
+seventh century. Brictric, King of Wessex, was buried within its walls
+in the ninth century, and, like Gloucester, it suffered afterwards from
+the ravages of the Danes. But it flourished subsequently, and in the
+days of William Rufus the manor was conferred upon Fitz-Hamon, an
+influential nobleman, under whose auspices the present abbey was built.
+Nothing remains of any prior building. The church was begun in 1100, but
+the builder was killed in battle before it was completed. It is in the
+form of a cross with short transepts, and a tower rising from the
+centre. The choir was originally terminated by apses, which can still be
+traced, and there were other apses on the eastern side of each transept.
+While the outlines of most of the abbey are Norman, the choir is almost
+all of later date. The western front has the singular feature of being
+almost all occupied by an enormous and deeply-recessed Norman arch, into
+which a doorway and tracery were inserted about two hundred years ago,
+replacing one blown down by a storm in 1661. This abbey church was
+dedicated in 1123, and the services were almost the last diocesan act of
+Theulf, bishop of Worcester. One of the dedication ceremonies was
+quaint. As the bishop came to the middle of the nave, we are told that
+he found part of the pavement spread with white wood-ashes, upon which
+he wrote the alphabet twice with his pastoral staff&mdash;first the Greek
+alphabet from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span> north-east to south-west, and then the Latin, from
+south-east to north-west, thus placing them in the form of a cross. He
+signified by this ceremony that all divine revelation was conveyed by
+the letters of the alphabet, and that the gospel comprehended under the
+shadow of the cross men of all races and all languages. The time had
+been when at such consecrations three alphabets were written&mdash;the
+Hebrew, Greek, and Latin&mdash;as the title on the cross had been written in
+these three tongues, but the Hebrew was early discontinued, "probably,"
+writes Blunt, the historian of Tewkesbury Abbey, "because even bishops
+might not always be able to manage their Alpha Beta in that character."
+The best views of the abbey are from the south-east, and the interior is
+regarded as more remarkable than the exterior. The nave is of singular
+grandeur, its round Norman columns being exceptionally lofty. The
+triforium is stunted, and consists merely of two pairs of small arches,
+above which the ribs of a noble fretted roof expand, so that it appears
+as if the roof were immediately supported by the columns of the nave.
+The choir is short and hexagonal, being only sixty-six feet from the
+reredos, and is surrounded by a number of polygonal chapels, as at
+Westminster Abbey, with which it appears quite similar in plan. The Lady
+Chapel, originally at the east end, has been entirely destroyed. There
+are several monuments of great interest in these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> chapels, some of them
+in the form of chantries&mdash;being exquisite cages in stone-work&mdash;within
+which are the tombs of the founders. Here lie some of the chief nobility
+of England who in the days of the Plantagenets were the lords of
+Tewkesbury&mdash;the Beauchamps, Nevilles, De Clares, and Despensers.
+Fitz-Hamon's tomb was not erected until the fourteenth century. Here lie
+Clarence and his wife, Isabel, the daughter of Warwick the "King-maker,"
+and also the murdered son of Henry VI., who was "stabbed in the field by
+Tewkesbury," with other victims of that fatal battle. The remains of the
+cloisters lie to the south of the abbey, and beyond is the ancient
+gateway, of rather unusual plan.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;">
+<a name="p345" id="p345"></a>
+<img src="images/p345.jpg" width="340" height="450" alt="THE CHOIR OF TEWKESBURY ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHOIR OF TEWKESBURY ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The battle of Tewkesbury, which sealed the fate of the Lancastrian party
+in England, was fought in 1471 upon the Bloody Meadow, then called the
+Vineyard, just outside the town and to the southward of the abbey. The
+Lancastrian line was soon broken, and the fight became practically a
+slaughter, as the defeated party were forced back upon the town and into
+the very abbey itself. Many of the fugitives sought refuge in the
+church, and the Yorkists followed them, striking down their victims in
+the graveyard, and even within the church-doors. The abbot, taking in
+his hand the sacred Host, confronted King Edward himself in the porch
+and forbade him to pollute the house of God with blood, and would not
+allow him to enter until he had promised mercy to those who had sought
+refuge inside. This clemency, however, was short-lived, for in the
+afternoon the young Prince of Wales, Henry VI.'s son, was brought before
+Edward and murdered by his attendants. Shakespeare represents Edward as
+dealing the first blow with a dagger, but the truer story seems to be
+that, enraged by a haughty answer from the young prince, he struck him
+in the face with his gauntlet, which the bystanders accepted as a signal
+for the murder. Two days afterwards a number of the chief captives were
+executed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>WORCESTER.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p346" id="p346"></a>
+<img src="images/p346.jpg" width="650" height="452" alt="WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SEVERN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SEVERN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 452px;">
+<a name="p348" id="p348"></a>
+<img src="images/p348.jpg" width="452" height="600" alt="THE CHOIR OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHOIR OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Still ascending the valley of the Severn, we come to Worcester, another
+of the military stations of the Romans, established to hold this rich,
+fertile, and coveted region. Its cathedral, and, in fact, much of the
+town, stand upon an elevated ridge, with the river flowing at the base.
+To this day Worcester retains the plan of the original Roman camp, but
+it does not seem to have made at that time much mark in history. The
+Britons captured it, and named the place Wigoma Ceaster, and it was
+afterwards incorporated into Mercia. In the eleventh century a castle
+was built near the Severn, and the earlier kings of England were
+frequently its residents. King John had great veneration for St.
+Wulstan, the founder of Worcester Cathedral, and he was laid to rest
+beside that saint's shrine. Worcester suffered the usual penalties of
+the towns in the Severn Valley: it was destroyed by the Danes and burned
+by Hardicanute, and in the twelfth century town, castle, and cathedral
+were all consumed by a fire supposed to be caused by the Welsh. It was
+partially burned three times subsequently in that century, and in Henry
+III.'s reign Simon de Montfort and his son were defeated and slain on
+the neighboring hills. The final conflagration was caused by Owen
+Glendower in 1401, after which quieter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span> times came until the Civil War.
+Worcester was zealous for King Charles, and suffered from two sieges,
+being the last city that held out for the royal cause. It was the scene
+of Charles II.'s first and unsuccessful effort to regain the English
+crown. He had been acknowledged and crowned by the Scots, and attempted
+the invasion of England. His army marched down through the western
+counties, while Cromwell kept between him and London. He reached
+Worcester, when Cromwell determined to attack him, and marched the
+Parliamentary army to the outskirts of the city, encamping on Red Hill,
+where he intrenched. Sending part of his troops across the Severn, on
+September 3, 1651, Cromwell attacked Worcester on both sides, leading
+the van of the main body in person. Young Charles held a council of war
+in the cathedral-tower, and when he descended to personally lead the
+defence, the fight had become hot; and it lasted several hours, Cromwell
+describing the battle as being "as stiff a contest as I have ever seen."
+The Scots were outnumbered and beaten, but would not surrender, and the
+battle did not close till nightfall. Then it was found that, while
+Cromwell had suffered inconsiderable loss, the royal forces had lost six
+thousand men and all their artillery and baggage. Charles fought
+bravely, and narrowly avoided capture. A handful of troops defended
+Sidbury Gate, leading in from the suburb of the town where the battle
+had been hottest. Charles had to dismount and creep under an overturned
+hay-wagon, and, entering the gate, mounted a horse and rode to the
+corn-market, where he escaped with Lord Wilmot through the back door of
+a house, while some of his officers beat off Cobbett's troops who
+attacked the front. Upon this house, built in 1557, is still read the
+inscription, "Love God; honor the king." Then getting out of the city,
+Charles escaped into the wood of Boscobel, and after a series of
+romantic adventures managed to reach the seacoast in Sussex, and on
+October 15th embarked at Shoreham for France. It was in this battle that
+Worcester earned the motto it still bears of "Civitas fidelis."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p349" id="p349"></a>
+<img src="images/p349.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="RUINS OF THE GUESTEN HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE GUESTEN HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Worcester's most conspicuous building is the cathedral, its tower being
+prominently seen from miles around. Its western front overlooks the
+Severn, and the ground-plan is an elongated rectangle with small double
+transepts. The choir and portions of the nave are the original work,
+most of the remainder being restored. St. Dunstan's successor, Bishop
+Oswald, built the first cathedral here, and during the progress of the
+work he met an unexpected check. The ancient chronicler tells us that a
+large stone became immovable, and despite every exertion could not be
+brought to its proper place. "St. Oswald," he continues, "after praying
+earnestly, beheld 'Ethiopem quendam' sitting upon the stone and mocking
+the builders: the sign of the cross removed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> him effectually." No
+portion of this original building remains, the earliest parts of the
+present cathedral dating from Bishop Wulstan's time, in the eleventh
+century. Wulstan was a man of piety and simplicity who retained his see
+after the Norman Conquest. The increasing number of monks in the
+monastery compelled the removal of Oswald's church to make more room,
+and Wulstan regretfully built the new cathedral, saying he was pulling
+down the church of a far holier man than himself. Miracles were frequent
+at Wulstan's tomb, and in 1203 he was canonized. His church was
+unlucky&mdash;several times partly burned, and once the central tower fell,
+and afterwards the two western towers during storms; but it was always
+repaired, and in 1218, St. Wulstan's remains were removed to a shrine
+near the high altar, and the cathedral rededicated in the presence of
+Henry III. The interior view is striking, the arches of the nave,
+triforium, and clerestory being in harmonious proportions. In the middle
+of the choir is King John's monument, the effigy representing him
+crowned and in royal robes, holding the sceptre and the sword, the point
+of the latter inserted in the mouth of a lion on which his feet rest. We
+are told that in 1797 the coffin was found beneath the tomb, with the
+apparel partially mouldered, but the remains all gone. There are several
+other monuments in the cathedral&mdash;one a mural slab commemorating Anne,
+wife of Izaak Walton, "a woman of remarkable prudence and of the
+primitive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> piety." The crypt beneath the choir is a remnant of Wulstan's
+work, and the old doors of the cathedral, dating from the thirteenth
+century, are preserved there: fragments of human skin are still seen
+upon them, reputed to have been that of a man who was flayed for
+stealing a holy bell. In the north walk of the cloisters is the
+grave-slab famous for bearing the shortest and saddest inscription in
+England, "Miserrimus:" it is said to cover one of the minor canons,
+named Morris, who declined to take the oath of allegiance to William
+III. and had to be supported by alms. Around the cloisters are the ruins
+of the ancient monastery, the most prominent fragments being those of
+the Guesten Hall, erected in 1320. Access to the cathedral close, on the
+south-eastern side, is obtained through an ancient gateway called the
+Edgar Tower, one of the earliest structures connected with the
+cathedral, which is still fairly preserved: it was evidently intended
+for defence. The bishops of Worcester present an unbroken line for
+twelve centuries, including, in later days, Latimer the martyr,
+Prideaux, and Stillingfleet. It was in Worcester Cathedral, on October
+23, 1687, that James II. touched several persons to cure the scrofula<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span>
+or king's evil; and when William III. afterwards visited Worcester he
+yielded to sundry entreaties to touch sufferers, but in doing so said,
+"God give you better health and more sense!" These were about the last
+"touchings" known in England. Upon James II.'s visit he attended mass at
+the Catholic chapel, and was waited upon to the door by the mayor and
+corporation officers, but they declined to enter a Roman Catholic place
+of worship. A minute in the corporation proceedings explains that they
+passed the time until the service was over in smoking and drinking at
+the Green Dragon Inn, loyally charging the bill to the city. Worcester
+in ancient times was famous for its cloth, but other places have since
+eclipsed it. It is now noted mainly for gloves, fine porcelain, and
+Worcester Sauce.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 535px;">
+<a name="p350" id="p350"></a>
+<img src="images/p350.jpg" width="535" height="600" alt="CLOSE IN WORCESTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLOSE IN WORCESTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE MALVERN HILLS.</h3>
+
+<p>The broad valley of the Severn is bounded on its western side by the
+boldly-rising Malvern range of hills, which are elevated so steeply and
+so suddenly above the plain that they produce an impression of size and
+height much greater than they really possess, and are more imposing than
+many summits that far surpass them in magnitude. There is reason,
+therefore, in Mrs. Browning's poetic expression:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Malvern Hills, for mountains counted</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not unduly, form a row."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The Malvern range is a ridge running nearly north and south, with a
+series of smooth, steep summits, the breadth of the range being barely
+half a mile. Their slopes are of turf and furze, often as steep as the
+pitched roof of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span> house, with crags projecting here and there. The
+chief summits are the North Hill, rising eleven hundred and fifty-one
+feet above the Severn, the Worcestershire Beacon, fourteen hundred and
+forty-four feet, and the Herefordshire Beacon, thirteen hundred and
+seventy feet. Their highest parts are covered with verdure, and nearly
+seventeen hundred different varieties of plants have been found on the
+range. These hills stand as one of Nature's bulwarks, an outwork of the
+mountain-region of Wales, dividing an upland from a lowland district,
+each furnishing totally different characteristics. They were the
+boundary between the Romans and the Britons, and their summits present
+some remarkable remains of ancient fortifications. The Worcestershire
+Beacon rises directly above the town of Great Malvern, and south of it a
+fissure called the Wyche sinks down to about nine hundred feet
+elevation, enabling a road to be carried across the ridge. Some distance
+south of this there is an even lower depression, by which the high-road
+crosses from Worcester to Hereford. Then to the southward is the
+Herefordshire Beacon, and beyond it several lower summits. These two
+gaps or gateways in this natural wall of defence are both guarded by
+ancient camps of unusual strength and still in good preservation. One of
+these camps on the Herefordshire Beacon, with ditches, ramparts, and a
+keep, encloses forty-four acres. Also on top of the ridge are found
+traces of the ditch that was dug to mark the dividing-lines between the
+hunting-grounds of the bishops who ruled on either hand in Hereford and
+in Worcester. The bishops in the olden time appear to have been as keen
+sportsmen as the nobles.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Great Malvern, on the eastern slope of the hills, is
+elevated five hundred and twenty feet, and is in high repute as a
+watering-place. It had its origin in a priory, of which there still
+remains the fine old church, with a surmounting gray tower and an
+entrance-gateway which have escaped the general ruin of the monastery.
+Within this ancient church the ornaments of some of the old stalls in
+the choir are very quaint, representing a man leading a bear, a dying
+miser handing his money-bags to the priest and doctor, and three rats
+solemnly hanging a cat on a gallows. The priory was the nucleus about
+which gathered the town, or, properly speaking, the towns, for there are
+a series of them, all well-known watering-places. Great Malvern has
+North Malvern alongside it and Malvern Link on the lower hills, while to
+the southward are Malvern Wells and Little Malvern, with West Malvern
+over on the Hereford side of the ridge. They are aggregations of pretty
+villas, and the many invalids who seek their relief are drawn about in
+Bath-chairs by little donkeys. The view from the Worcestershire Beacon
+is grand, extending over a broad surface in all directions, for we are
+told that when the beacon-fires<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span> that were lighted upon this elevated
+ridge warned England of the approach of the Spanish Armada,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Twelve fair counties saw the blaze</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">From Malvern's lonely height."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The advantages the Malvern range offers as a sanitarium are pure air and
+pure water. The towns are elevated above the fogs of the valleys, and
+the rainfall is small, while both winter's cold and summer's heat are
+tempered. St. Anne's Well and the Holy Well are the great sources of
+pure water. The latter is at Malvern Wells, and the former on the side
+of the Worcestershire Beacon, at an elevation of eight hundred and
+twenty feet. Both are slightly alkaline, but St. Anne's Well is the most
+famous, and is tastefully enclosed. Water-cure establishments abound
+here, and with such air, such water, and such magnificent scenery it is
+no wonder that the Malvern Hills are among the most popular resorts of
+England.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p352" id="p352"></a>
+<img src="images/p352.jpg" width="500" height="401" alt="ST. ANNE&#39;S WELL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. ANNE&#39;S WELL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE RIVER WYE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
+<a name="p353-1" id="p353-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p353-1.jpg" width="425" height="550" alt="BUTCHERS&#39; ROW, HEREFORD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUTCHERS&#39; ROW, HEREFORD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;">
+<a name="p353-2" id="p353-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p353-2.jpg" width="363" height="550" alt="OUTHOUSE WHERE NELL GWYNNE WAS BORN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OUTHOUSE WHERE NELL GWYNNE WAS BORN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p354" id="p354"></a>
+<img src="images/p354.jpg" width="600" height="569" alt="HEREFORD CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the top of the Malvern Hills the western view looks down upon the
+attractive valley of the river Wye, a famous stream that takes its rise
+in the mountains of Wales, and after flowing through Herefordshire and
+Monmouthshire falls into the Severn. Rising on the south-eastern side of
+Plynlimmon, a group of three mountains elevated nearly twenty-five
+hundred feet, it is one of five rivers whose sources are almost in the
+same spot, but which flow in opposite directions&mdash;the Llyffnant,
+Rheidol, Dyfi, Severn, and Wye. For miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> it is a mountain torrent,
+receiving other streams, and flowing eastward through Radnor and
+Brecknock, where it is the resort of artists and anglers. It passes near
+the burial-place of Llewellyn, the last native Prince of Wales, who died
+in 1282, and then, bordered by railway and highway, comes down through
+picturesque ravines past Hay and its ruined castle in a beautiful glen
+at the base of the Black Mountains, which rise abruptly from its
+southern bank. Near Hay, and overlooking the river, are the ruins of
+Clifford Castle, which was the birthplace of "Fair Rosamond." Here the
+Wye enters Herefordshire, the valley broadens, and the stream gradually
+leads us to the ancient town of Hereford, standing chiefly on its
+northern bank and in a delightful situation. This city does not lay
+claim to Roman origin, but it was nevertheless one of the fortified
+outposts of England on the border of Wales, and was often the scene of
+warfare. It was walled and vigorously defended, while hostelries and
+chapels were erected for the accommodation of pilgrims and other
+visitors. Hereford contained the shrines of St. Ethelbert and St. Thomas
+Cantelupe, but its chief relic of antiquity is the house that remains of
+the "old Butchers' Row," which was originally a large and irregular
+cluster of wooden buildings placed nearly in the middle of the locality<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span>
+known as the High Town. All but one of these houses have been taken
+down, and the one that remains shows window-frames, doors, stairs, and
+floors all made of thick and solid masses of timber, apparently
+constructed to last for ages. A shield over one of the doors bears a
+boar's head and three bulls' heads, having two winged bulls for
+supporters and another bull for a crest. On other parts are emblems of
+the slaughter-house, such as ropes, rings, and axes. Thus did our
+English ancestors caricature the imaginary dignity of heraldry. This
+attractive old house is a relic of the days of James I. Nell Gwynne was
+born in Hereford, and the small cottage in Pipe Lane which was her
+birthplace has only recently been pulled down. It was a little
+four-roomed house, and an outhouse opening on the Wye, which was
+standing in poor Nelly's days, remains. Hereford Cathedral is a fine
+Norman structure, begun in the eleventh century and recently restored.
+The most imposing portion of the interior is the north transept, which
+was built to receive the shrine of Cantelupe. The remains of the Black
+Friars' monastery are in the Widemarsh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> suburb. They consist chiefly of
+an interesting relic of that religious order, an hexagonal
+preaching-cross standing on a flight of steps and open on each side.
+Hereford Castle has disappeared, but its site is an attractive public
+walk overlooking the Wye, called the Castle Green.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 321px;">
+<a name="p355" id="p355"></a>
+<img src="images/p355.jpg" width="321" height="450" alt="OLD NAVE, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD NAVE, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE MAN OF ROSS.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p356" id="p356"></a>
+<img src="images/p356.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="HOUSE OF THE MAN OF ROSS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HOUSE OF THE &ldquo;MAN OF ROSS.&rdquo;</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>The Wye flows on through a fairly open valley, with broad meadows
+extending from the bases of the wooded hills to the river. On
+approaching Ross the meadows contract, the hills come nearer together,
+and the new phase of scenery in the glen which here begins makes the Wye
+the most beautiful among English rivers. Ross stands at the entrance to
+the glen, built upon a sloping hill which descends steeply to the Wye.
+It was the Ariconium of the Romans, and has been almost without stirring
+history. It has grown in all these centuries to be a town of about four
+thousand five hundred population, with considerable trade, being the
+centre of a rich agricultural section, and is chiefly known to fame as
+the home of Pope's "Man of Ross." This was John Kyrle, who was born at
+the village of Dymock, not far away, May 22, 1637. He was educated at
+Balliol College, Oxford, where they still preserve a piece of plate
+which he presented as a parting gift. He afterwards settled at Ross, and
+lived to an advanced age, dying November 11, 1724. He was described as
+"nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> six feet high, strong and lusty made, jolly and ruddy in the
+face, with a large nose." His claim to immortality, which has made his
+name a household word in England, cannot better be described than by
+quoting some of Pope's lines:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 533px;">
+<a name="p357" id="p357"></a>
+<img src="images/p357.jpg" width="533" height="600" alt="MARKET PLACE ROSS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET PLACE ROSS."</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Who hung with woods yon mountain's sultry brow?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the dry soil who bade the waters flow?...</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose causeway parts the vale with shady rows?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose seats the weary traveller repose?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Who taught that heaven-directed spire to rise?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'The Man of Ross,' each lisping babe replies.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Behold the market-place with poor o'erspread!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Man of Ross divides the weekly bread:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He feeds yon almshouse, neat, but void of state,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where age and want sit smiling at the gate:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Him portioned maids, apprenticed orphans blest,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The young who labor, and the old who rest.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Is any sick? The Man of Ross relieves.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prescribes, attends, the med'cine makes and gives.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Is there a variance? Enter but his door.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Balked are the courts and contest is no more....</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thrice happy man! enabled to pursue</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What all so wish, but want the power to do!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh say what sums that generous hand supply,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What mines to swell that boundless charity?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of debts and taxes, wife and children, clear.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That man possessed&mdash;five hundred pounds a year!"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 545px;">
+<a name="p358-1" id="p358-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p358-1.jpg" width="545" height="550" alt="ROSS CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROSS CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p358-2" id="p358-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 373px;">
+
+<img src="images/p358-2.jpg" width="373" height="450" alt="THE TREE IN ROSS CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TREE IN ROSS CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is not often that a man can do so much to benefit his townsfolk out
+of the modest income of $2500 a year; and not only Pope, but Coleridge
+also, has found this a theme for verse. The house in which the "Man of
+Ross" lived is on the left-hand side of the market-place, and still
+stands, though much changed. It is now a drug-store and a dwelling. The
+floors and panelling of several of the chambers are of oak, while a
+quaint opening leads to a narrow corridor and into a small room, which
+tradition says was his bedroom, where he endured his last and only
+illness, and died. The bedroom looks out upon his garden, divided like
+the house, one-half being converted into a bowling-green. The
+surrounding walls are overrun with vines and bordered by pear trees. On
+the other side of the market-place is the town-hall, standing on an
+eminence and facing the principal street, which comes up from the
+river-bank. This hall is somewhat dilapidated, though still in daily
+use, and is supported on crumbling pillars of red sandstone. Ross is
+chiefly built upon the slope of a hill, terminating in a plateau, one
+side of which the Wye, flowing through a horseshoe bend, has scarped out
+into a river-cliff. Upon this plateau stands the little Ross Church with
+its tall spire, a striking building in a singularly fortunate situation.
+The churchyard, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span> an adjoining public garden called the Prospect,
+extends to the brow of the cliff. The church is cruciform, and its spire
+the landmark for the surrounding country. It was built in the fourteenth
+century, but is without architectural features. The "Man of Ross" rests
+within its walls, buried near the altar under a blue slab. His memory is
+the most cherished remembrance of Ross, and is mellowed as the ages
+pass. His fireside chair stands in the chancel, and they also show a
+book containing his autograph. A tablet to his memory is inserted in the
+wall, erected by a distant relative, Lady Betty Dupplin, for it is said,
+as is usually the case, that his good deeds excited more enthusiasm in
+strangers than among the people whom he benefited. Within the church, in
+front of a window, two trees are growing, another indirect and
+posthumous memorial of the "Man of Ross." They appeared about fifty
+years ago, and the story is that a rector of the parish had cut down a
+tree on the outside of the wall which the "Man of Ross" had originally
+planted, whereupon these suckers made their appearance within the
+building and asserted the vitality of the parent tree. They shot up
+against the seat which is said to have been his favorite one, and though
+at first objected to, the church-wardens bowed to the inevita<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span>ble, and
+they are now among the most prized relics within the church. The public
+garden (the Prospect) adjoining the churchyard was another benefaction
+of the "Man of Ross," and with some private houses and a hotel it crowns
+the summit of the plateau. Here the hand of the "Man of Ross" again
+appears in a row of noble elms around the churchyard which he is said to
+have planted, some of them of great size. The view from the Prospect,
+however, is the town's chief present glory. It stands on the brink of
+the river-cliff, with the Wye sweeping at its feet around the apex of
+the long horseshoe curve. Within the curve is the grassy Oak Meadow
+dotted with old trees. On either hand are meadows and cornfields, with
+bits of wood, and the Welsh hills rise in the distance.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>GOODRICH CASTLE AND SYMOND'S YAT.</h3>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p359" id="p359"></a>
+<img src="images/p359.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="RUINS OF GOODRICH CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF GOODRICH CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p360" id="p360"></a>
+<img src="images/p360.jpg" width="600" height="265" alt="A BEND OF THE RIVER WYE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BEND OF THE RIVER WYE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Wye flows on through its picturesque glen towards Monmouth, the
+water bubbling with a strong current. A raised causeway carries the road
+to Monmouth over the meadows. On the right hand are the ruins of Wilton
+Castle, built in Stephen's reign, and burned in the Civil War. Tourists
+go by small boats floated on the current down the Wye, and the boats are
+hauled back on donkey-carts, little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span> trains of them being seen creeping
+along the Monmouth road. From Ross to Monmouth the river flows through a
+region of rolling hills, with abrupt declivities where the rapid stream
+has scarped the margin into cliffs and ridges. The valley narrows, and
+the very crooked river flows through bewitching scenery until by another
+great horseshoe bend it winds around the ruins of Goodrich Castle,
+reared upon a wooded cliff, with Goodrich Court near by. The latter is a
+modern imitation of a medi&aelig;val dwelling, constructed according to the
+erratic whims of a recent owner. This Court once contained the finest
+collection of ancient armor in England, but most of it has been
+transferred to the South Kensington Museum. Goodrich Castle was once a
+formidable fortress, and it dates from the reign of Stephen. Here it was
+that in the days of Edward the Confessor, "entrenched in a stockade of
+wood, Goderic de Winchcomb held the ford" over the Wye, and gave the
+place his name. It grew in strength until the Civil War, when Sir
+Richard Lingen held it for the king. This was a memorable contest,
+lasting six weeks, during which the besiegers belabored it with the best
+battering-cannon they could procure, and used up eighty barrels of
+gunpowder voted by Parliament for the purpose. Then the defenders
+demanded a parley, but the assailants, angry at being so long baulked of
+their prey, insisted upon unconditional surrender. Afterwards the castle
+was demolished, but the fine old keep remains in good preservation,
+commanding a grand view over the winding valley of the Wye and to the
+Forest of Dean in one direction and the Malvern Hills in another. The
+ruins are of a quadrangular fortress, and within the courtyard
+Wordsworth once met the child whose prattle suggested his familiar poem,
+"We are Seven." Little now remains of Goodrich Priory, but the parish
+church of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span> village can be seen afar off, and contains a chalice
+presented by Dean Swift, whose grandfather, Thomas Swift, was once its
+rector.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p361" id="p361"></a>
+<img src="images/p361.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="IN SYMOND&#39;S YAT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN SYMOND&#39;S YAT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Below Goodrich this wayward river makes an enormous loop, wherein it
+goes wandering about for eight miles and accomplishes just one mile's
+distance. Here it becomes a boundary between the two Bickner
+villages&mdash;Welsh Bickner and English Bickner. To the eastward is the
+Forest of Dean, covering over twenty-six thousand acres, and including
+extensive coal-pits and iron-works, the smoke from the latter
+overhanging the valley. The river-channel is dug deeply into the
+limestone rocks, whose fissured and ivy-clad cliffs rise high above the
+water, varied by occasional green meadows, where cattle are feeding. The
+river bends sharply to the westward past the crags at Coldwell, and then
+doubles back upon its former course. This second bend is around a high
+limestone plateau which is the most singular feature of the beautiful
+glen. The river sweeps in an elongated loop of about five miles, and
+returns to within eighteen hundred feet of its former channel, and the
+plateau rises six hundred feet to the apex of the headland that mounts
+guard over the grand curve&mdash;the famous Symond's Yat. On the top are the
+remains of an ancient British fort, and rocks, woods, fields, and
+meadows slope down to the river on almost every side, making a
+bewitching scene. It was here that the Northman Vikings in 911 fortified
+themselves after they landed on the Severn and penetrated through the
+Forest of Dean. They were led by Eric in quest of plunder, and captured
+a bishop, who was afterwards ransomed for two hundred dollars. Their
+foray roused the people, who besieged the Vikings, forming a square
+encampment which commanded their fortification, and remains of which are
+still visible. They drove the Vikings out with their hail of arrows, and
+punished them so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span> terribly that the defile down which they fled is still
+known as "The Slaughter." The remnant who escaped afterwards surrendered
+on condition of being allowed to quit the country, and their experience
+had such wholesome influence that no Vikings came that way afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>The Wye next bends around two bold limestone hills known as the Great
+and the Little Doward, each surmounted by ancient encampments, where
+arrowheads and other relics, not to forget the bones of a giant, have
+been found. In fact, bones seem to be a prolific product of this region,
+for the "bone-caves" of the Dowards produce the relics of many animals
+long vanished from the kingdom, and also disclose rude weapons of flint,
+showing that the primitive races of men were here with them. Beds of
+stalagmites, sand, and gravel covered these relics, deposited by an
+ancient stream which geologists say flowed three hundred feet above the
+present bed of the Wye. Then we come to the richly-wooded deer-park of
+the Leys with its exquisite views, and here the wildly romantic scenery
+is gradually subdued into a more open valley and a straighter stream as
+the Wye flows on towards Monmouth. The parts of the river just described
+are not more renowned for their beauty, though considered the finest in
+England, than for their salmon, and we are told that three men with a
+net have been known to catch a ton of salmon in a day, while the
+fishery-rights are let at over $100,000 annually.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>MONMOUTH.</h3>
+
+<p>The beautiful valley, with its picturesque scenery, expands somewhat as
+the Wye approaches its junction with the river Monnow and flows through
+a succession of green meadows. Here, between the two rivers on a low
+spur, a prolongation of their bordering hills, stands Monmouth, its
+ancient suburbs spreading across the Monnow. From the market-place, the
+chief street of the town leads down to these suburbs, crossing over an
+old-time bridge. The town has its church and the ruins of a priory,
+while perched on a cliff overlooking the Monnow is its castle,
+displaying rather extensive but not very attractive remains. John of
+Monmouth is said to have built this castle in the reign of Henry III.
+Here also lived at one time John of Gaunt and his son, Harry Hereford,
+who afterwards became Henry IV., and the latter's son, Harry Monmouth,
+was born in this old castle, growing up to become the wild "Prince Hal,"
+and afterwards the victor at Agincourt. They still show a narrow window,
+with remains of tracery, as marking the room in which he first saw the
+light. Thus has "Prince Hal" become the patron of Monmouth, and his
+statue stands in front of the town-hall, representing the king in full
+armor, and inscribed, "Henry V., born at Monmouth August 9, 1387," but
+it is not regarded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> as remarkable for its artistic finish. The remains
+of the old priory are utilized for a school. It was founded by the
+Benedictines in the reign of Henry I., and in it lived Geoffrey of
+Monmouth, a familiar author in days when books were few. He was Bishop
+of St. Asaph's in the year 1152, and wrote his <i>History of the Britons</i>,
+wherein he combined all the fables of the time so ingeniously with the
+truth that they became alike history. Out of his imagination grew the
+tale of the "Round Table" and its knights.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p363-1" id="p363-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p363-1.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="MONMOUTH BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MONMOUTH BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;">
+<a name="p363-2" id="p363-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p363-2.jpg" width="489" height="550" alt="GATE ON MONMOUTH BRIDGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATE ON MONMOUTH BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon the old bridge crossing the Monnow stands an ancient gate-house,
+constructed in the style that prevailed in the thirteenth century, but
+it is doubtful if this was a military work, its probable use being the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span>
+collection of tolls on the produce brought into the town. It is pierced
+with postern arches for the foot-passengers, and still retains the place
+for its portcullis. All around the Monmouth market-place are the old
+houses where the celebrated Monmouth caps were made that were so popular
+in old times, and of which Fluellen spoke when he told Henry V., "If
+Your Majesty is remembered of it, the Welshmen did good service in a
+garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps."
+Monmouth is not a large town, having but six thousand inhabitants, but
+it takes a mayor, four aldermen, two bailiffs, and twelve councillors to
+govern them, and its massive county-jail is a solid warning to all
+evil-doers. From the summit of the lofty Kymin Hill, rising seven
+hundred feet on the eastern side of the town, there is a grand panorama
+over the valley of the Wye. This hill is surmounted by a pavilion and
+temple, built in 1800 to record the naval victories of England in the
+American wars. Farther down the valley was the home of the late Lord
+Raglan, and here are the ruins of Raglan Castle, built in the fifteenth
+century. For ten weeks in the Civil War the venerable Marquis of
+Worcester held this castle against Fairfax's siege, but the redoubtable
+old hero, who was aged eighty-four, ultimately had to surrender.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 402px;">
+<a name="p364" id="p364"></a>
+<img src="images/p364.jpg" width="402" height="600" alt="RAGLAN CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RAGLAN CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>TINTERN ABBEY AND CHEPSTOW CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<p>The Wye at Monmouth also receives the Trothy River, and the confluence
+of the three valleys makes a comparatively open basin, which, however,
+again<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> narrows into another romantic glen a short distance below the
+town. Wild woods border the steep hills, and the Wye flows through the
+western border of the Forest of Dean, an occasional village attesting
+the mineral wealth by its blackened chimneys. Here, below Redbrook, was
+the home of Admiral Rooke, who captured Gibraltar in 1704, and farther
+down are the ruins of the castle of St. Briard, built in the days of
+Henry I. to check Welsh forays. Here lived the lord warden of the Forest
+of Dean, and for three centuries every Whit-Sunday they held the annual
+"scramble" in the church. It appears that a tax of one penny was levied
+on every person who pastured his cattle on the common, and the amount
+thus raised was expended for bread and cheese. The church was crowded,
+and the clerk standing in the gallery threw out the edibles to the
+struggling congregation below. The railway closely hugs the
+swiftly-flowing river in its steep and narrow glen as we pass Offa's
+Dyke and Chair and the Moravian village of Brockweir. Here the line of
+fortifications crossed the valley which the king of Mercia constructed
+to protect his dominions. The valley then slightly expands, and the
+green sward is dotted by the houses of the long and scattered village of
+Tintern Parva. The river sharply bends, and in the glen on the western
+side stand the ruins of the far-famed Tintern Abbey in the green meadows
+at the brink of the Wye. The spot is well chosen, for nowhere along this
+celebrated river has Nature indicated a better place for quiet, heavenly
+meditation not un-mixed with earthly comforts.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p365" id="p365"></a>
+<img src="images/p365.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="TINTERN ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TINTERN ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Walter de Clare founded Tintern Abbey in 1131 for the Cistercian monks,
+and dedicated it to St. Mary. It was built upon an ancient battlefield
+where a Christian prince of Glamorgan had been slain by the heathen, but
+of the buildings erected by De Clare none now exist, the present remains
+being of later date, and the abbey church that is now in ruin was
+erected by Roger Bigod, Duke of Norfolk. It is a magnificent relic of
+the Decorated period. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> vaulted roof and central tower are gone, but
+the arches which supported the latter remain. The row of columns on the
+northern side of the nave have fallen, with the clerestory above them,
+but the remainder of the structure has suffered little damage. The
+western front, with its noble window and exquisite tracery, is very
+fine. Ivy and ferns overrun the walls and form a coping, while green
+sward has replaced the pavement, so that it would be difficult to
+imagine a more enchanting ruin, and as such Tintern is renowned the
+world over. Lord Houghton has written:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The men who called their passion piety,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And wrecked this noble argosy of faith,&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They little thought how beauteous could be death,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How fair the face of time's aye-deepening sea,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor arms that desolate, nor years that flee,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor hearts that fail, can utterly deflower</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This grassy floor of sacramental power</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where we now stand communicants."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Tintern Abbey is two hundred and twenty-eight feet long. It had no
+triforium, and the clerestory windows are rather large. The great east
+window was even more elaborate than the western, but all of it has
+fallen excepting the central mullion and the stronger portion of the
+tracery which branches out on either side from it. There yet remain in
+the building a few tiles with heraldic emblems, some broken monuments,
+and some heaps of choice carvings, shattered as they fell, but
+afterwards collected and piled against the walls. The Duke of Beaufort,
+to whose estate it belongs, has done everything possible to arrest
+decay, and all is kept in perfect order. A door leads out of the
+southern transept to a few fragments of buildings in the fields on that
+side, but most of the convent was on the northern side, where its ruins
+surround a grass-grown quadrangle. A cloister once ran around it; on the
+eastern side is the chapter-house, with the dormitory above, and on the
+western side the remains of the abbot's lodgings and the guest-chambers
+have been converted into cottages. The refectory and guest-hall are to
+the northward, with ruins of the octagonal columns that supported the
+roof. Such is this magnificent relic of the Cistercians, and yet it is
+but one of seventy-six abbeys that they possessed before Henry VIII.
+dissolved them. From the high-road down the valley of the Wye, which
+skirts the green meadows along its southern face, is the best view of
+the abbey, and the ruddy gray stone ruins, with the grassy fields and
+the background of wooded hills beyond the broad river, make up a picture
+that cannot easily be forgotten. Yet Tintern is most beautiful of all
+when the full moon rising over the eastern hills pours a flood of light
+through the broken east window to the place where once stood the high
+altar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The valley of the Wye again broadens, and the river flows in graceful
+curves through the meadows, guarded on either hand by cliffs and woods.
+The river is here a tidal-stream, having a rise of twelve feet, so that
+it is now a strong current, flowing full and swift between grassy banks,
+and anon is a shrunken creek, fringed by broad borders of mud. The
+railway on the eastern bank runs over the meadows and through occasional
+tunnels in the spurs of the cliffs. The high-road climbs the hill on the
+western bank, known as the Wynecliff, from the top of which there is a
+grand view over the valley and to the southward towards and beyond
+Chepstow. This cliff rises nine hundred feet above the river, and is the
+great monarch of a realm of crags that poke up their heads in all
+directions. Across the Wye, on a tongue of land projecting into the
+stream, Sir John Wyntour in the Civil War, with one hundred and eighty
+Royalists, hastily built a fort to command the river. Before their
+intrenchments were complete the enemy in superior force attacked and
+completely routed them; but twenty escaped, and Wyntour, cutting his way
+through the assailants' lines, took refuge in the beetling crags behind
+known as the Tidenham Rocks. The cavalry pursued him, when he forced his
+horse down a part somewhat less precipitous than the rest, reached the
+bank in safety, and escaped by swimming his horse over the river. The
+precipice is still known as Wyntour's Leap. Below, the Wye flows through
+Chepstow, with iron bridges spanning it to carry the road and railway
+across. The main part of the town on the western part is built upon a
+slope that in places descends somewhat rapidly to the river. Parts of
+the old walls are still preserved, strengthened at intervals by round
+towers. Chepstow has its ruined church, once a priory, within which
+Henry Marten the regicide was buried after twenty years' imprisonment in
+the castle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p368" id="p368"></a>
+<img src="images/p368.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="CHEPSTOW CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHEPSTOW CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great point of interest is Chepstow Castle, built here to command
+the Wye, and standing in a fine situation on the edge of the river in a
+naturally fortified position. Upon the land-side deep trenches and
+outworks protect it, while a grassy meadow intervenes between its
+gateway and the Wye, that here makes a sharp curve. To get the castle in
+between the crags and the river, it was constructed upon a long and
+narrow plan, and is divided into four courts. The main entrance on the
+eastern side is through a ponderous gateway flanked by solid towers and
+with curiously-constructed ancient wooden doors. Entering the court,
+there is a massive tower on the left hand with an exterior staircase
+turret, while on the right the custodian lives in a group of
+comparatively modern buildings, beneath which is a vaulted chamber
+communicating with the river. Within this tower, whose walls are of
+great thickness, Henry Marten was imprisoned. He was one of the court
+that tried King Charles, and his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> signature is upon the king's
+death-warrant. He was a spendthrift, and afterwards had a quarrel with
+Cromwell, who denounced him as an unbeliever, and even as a buffoon.
+When Charles II. made the proclamation of amnesty, Marten surrendered,
+but he was tried and condemned to death. He plead that he came in under
+the proffer of mercy, and the sentence was commuted to a life
+imprisonment; and after a short confinement in the Tower of London he
+was removed to Chepstow, where he died twenty years later, in 1680.
+Passing into the smaller second court, for the rocks contract it, there
+is a strong tower protecting its entrance, and at the upper end are the
+ruins of the great hall, relics of the fourteenth century. Two or three
+windows, a door, and part of an arcade remain, but roof and floor are
+gone. A still smaller court lies beyond, at the upper end of which is a
+gateway defended by a moat, beyond which is the western gate and court
+of the castle, so that this last enclosure forms a kind of barbican.
+Chepstow was elaborately defended, and its only vulnerable points were
+from the meadows on the east and the higher ground to the west; but
+before the days of artillery it was regarded as impregnable, and
+excellently performed its duty as a check upon the Welsh. Fitzosbern,
+Earl of Hereford, built the older parts in the eleventh century, but the
+most of Chepstow dates from that great epoch of castle-building on the
+Welsh border, the reign of Edward I. We are told that the second
+Fitzosbern was attainted and his estates forfeited, but that the king
+one Easter graciously sent to him in prison his royal robes. The earl so
+disdained the favor that he burned them, which made the king so angry
+that he said, "Certainly this is a very proud man who hath thus abused
+me, but, by the brightness of God, he shall never come out of prison so
+long as I live."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> Whereupon, says Dugdale, who tells the tale, he
+remained a prisoner until he died. Chepstow was then bestowed upon the
+De Clares, who founded Tintern Abbey, and it afterwards passed by
+marriage to the Bigod family. Chepstow in the Civil War was held for the
+king, and surrendered to the Parliamentary troops. Soon afterwards it
+was surprised at the western gate and retaken. Cromwell then besieged
+it, but, the siege proving protracted, he left Colonel Ewer in charge.
+The Royalist garrison of about one hundred and sixty men were reduced to
+great extremity and tried to escape by a boat, but in this they were
+disappointed, as one of the besiegers, watching his opportunity, swam
+across the Wye with a knife in his teeth and cut the boat adrift. Then
+the castle was assaulted and taken, and the commander and most of the
+garrison slain. Parliament gave it to Cromwell, but after the
+Restoration it was returned to the heirs of the Marquis of Worcester,
+its owner, and it still belongs to his descendant, the Duke of Beaufort.
+The neighborhood of Chepstow has many pleasant villas in beautiful
+sites, and the broadening Wye flows a short distance beyond through the
+meadow-land, and then debouches into the estuary of the Severn.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE GOLDEN VALLEY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;">
+<a name="p370" id="p370"></a>
+<img src="images/p370.jpg" width="417" height="600" alt="PONTRILAS COURT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PONTRILAS COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;">
+<a name="p371" id="p371"></a>
+<img src="images/p371.jpg" width="414" height="600" alt="THE SCYRRID VAWR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SCYRRID VAWR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Still journeying westward beyond the beautiful valley of the Wye, we
+will ascend its tributary, the Monnow, to its sources in the Black
+Mountains on the borders of Wales. We skirted along the northern side of
+these mountains with the Wye, while the Monnow takes us fairly into
+them. The little river Dore is one of the head-waters of the Monnow, and
+it flows through the picturesque region known as the Golden Valley, just
+on the edge of Brecon, where the trout-fishing is as attractive as the
+scenery. All its streams rise upon the flanks of the Black Mountains,
+and the village of Pontrilas is its railway-station at the entrance to
+the valley. This village is devoted to the manufacture of naphtha, for
+which purpose mules bring wood from the neighboring forests, and it was
+once honored with the presence of a hotel. This was its principal
+mansion, Pontrilas Court, but it has long since been converted into a
+private residence. This court is a characteristic Elizabethan mansion,
+standing in a beautiful garden almost smothered in foliage and running
+vines. About a mile up the valley is the pretty village of Ewias Harold,
+with its church on one sloping bank of the little river and its castle
+on the other. Within the church alongside the chancel there is a
+recumbent female figure holding a casket in its hands. The tomb upon
+which it is placed was some time ago opened, but nothing was found
+within excepting a case containing a human heart. The monument probably
+commemorates an unknown benefactress<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> whose corpse lies elsewhere, but
+who ordered her heart sent to the spot she loved best. The castle,
+standing on an eminence, was once a strong fortress, and tradition says
+it was built by Harold before he was king, but it does not occupy a
+prominent place in history. Ascending a hill to the northward, a view is
+obtained over the valleys of the three picturesque streams&mdash;the Dore,
+Dulas, and Monnow&mdash;that afterwards unite their waters; and, proceeding
+up the Dore, we come to the village of Abbey Dore, with the roofless
+ruins of its abbey, a part of which is utilized for the parish church,
+though scarcely anything is now left beyond fragments of the conventual
+buildings. This was a Cistercian monastery founded by Robert of Ewias in
+the reign of Henry I. We are now in the heart of the Golden Valley,
+which seems to be excavated out of a plateau with long, terrace-like
+hills bounding it on either hand, their lower parts rich in verdure,
+while their summits are dark and generally bare. Every available part of
+the lower surface is thoroughly cultivated, its hedgerows and copses
+giving variety to the scene. As we move up the valley the Scyrrid Vawr
+raises its notched and pointed summit like a peak dropped down upon the
+lowlands. This mountain, nearly fifteen hundred feet high, whose name
+means the "Great Fissure," is severed into an upper and lower summit by
+a deep cleft due to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> landslip. It is also known as the Holy Mountain,
+and in its day has been the goal of many pilgrims. St. Michael, the
+guardian of the hills, has a chapel there, where crowds resorted on the
+eve of his festival. It used to be the custom for the Welsh farmers to
+send for sackloads of earth out of the cleft in this Holy Mountain,
+which they sprinkled over their houses and farm-buildings to avoid evil.
+They were also especially careful to strew portions over the coffins and
+graves of the dead. At the village of Wormridge, where some members of
+the Clive family are buried, there is a grand old elm on the
+village-green around which the people used to assemble for wrestling and
+for the performance of other rural amusements. At the base of this tree
+stood the stocks, that dungeon "all of wood" to which it is said there
+was</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"&mdash;&mdash;neither iron bar nor gate,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Portcullis, chain, nor bolt, nor grate,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And yet men durance there abide</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In dungeon scarce three inches wide."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>This famous valley also contains the pretty church and scanty ruins of
+the castle of Kilpeck; also the church of St. Peter at Rowlstone, where
+the ornamental representations of cocks and apostolic figures all have
+their heads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> downward, in memory of the position in which St. Peter was
+crucified. Here also, on the edge of the Black Mountains, is Oldcastle,
+whose ruins recall its owner, Sir John "of that ilk," the martyr who was
+sentenced in 1417 to be taken from the Tower of London to St. Giles'
+gallows, there to be hanged, and burned while hanging, as "a most
+pernicious, detestable heretic." At Longtown, the residence of the
+Lacies, there are remains of the walls and circular keep of their strong
+Border fortress. Kentchurch, on the slope of Garway Hill, is a seat of
+the Earl of Scudamore, where anciently lived John of Kent, a poet and
+mathematician, of whom Symonds tells us in his <i>Records of the Rocks</i>
+that "he sold his soul to the devil, and constructed the bridge over the
+Monnow in a single night." The ruined castle of Grosmont is about a mile
+distant: it was often besieged by the Welsh, and we are told that on one
+occasion "the king came with a great army to raise the siege, whereof,
+as soon as the Welshmen had understanding, they saved their lives by
+their legges." It was here that Henry of Monmouth defeated the Welsh,
+capturing Glendower's son Griffith.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>ABERGAVENNY AND LLANTHONY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;">
+<a name="p373" id="p373"></a>
+<img src="images/p373.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="LLANTHONY PRIORY, LOOKING DOWN THE NAVE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LLANTHONY PRIORY, LOOKING DOWN THE NAVE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rounding the southern extremity of the Black Mountains, and proceeding
+farther westward, we enter another beautiful region, the Vale of Usk, a
+stream that flows southward into the estuary of the Severn. Here is
+Abergavenny, with its ancient castle guarding the entrance to the upper
+valley, and with mountains on every side. Here rises, just north of the
+town, the Sugar Loaf, one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two feet
+high, and on the left hand the mass of old red sandstone known as the
+Blorenge, one thousand seven hundred and twenty feet high. A few miles
+up the tributary vale of Ewias, which discloses glorious scenery, are
+the ruins of Llanthony Priory. The valley is a deep winding glen cut out
+by the Hodeni between the great cliffs of the Black Mountains on the one
+side and the ranges around the Sugar Loaf on the other. In places the
+cliffs are precipitous, but, generally, the lower slopes furnish
+pasture-land and occasional woods, while the upper parts are covered
+with bracken fern, with a few trees and copses. The priory stands on a
+gentle slope at the base of the Black Mountains, elevated a short
+distance above the stream. Its original name was Llanhodeni, or "the
+Place by the Hodeni." It was founded by two hermits in the beginning of
+the twelfth century&mdash;William de Lacy, a Norman knight, and Ernisius,
+chaplain to Maud, wife of Henry I. They first built a small chapel
+dedicated to St. David; gifts flowed in, and they were soon enabled to
+construct a grand religious house, occupied by Augustinian monks, of
+whom Ernisius became the first prior. Predatory raids<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> by the Welsh,
+however, harassed the monks, and after submitting for some time to these
+annoyances they migrated to Gloucester, and founded another priory
+alongside the Severn. Later, however, they returned to the old place and
+kept up both establishments, but in the reign of Edward IV. the older
+was merged into the newer "because of the turbulence of the neighboring
+people and the irregular lives of its inmates." The ruins of Llanthony
+are supposed to date from about 1200, and are of a marked though simple
+beauty. The convent buildings are almost all gone, excepting fragments
+of the cellars and chapter-house. The prior's residence has become a
+farm-house, and where the monks sat in solemn conclave is now its
+outbuildings. The towers are used, one for chambers and the other for a
+dairy. The main part of the church is, however, carefully preserved with
+a green turf floor, and the western towers up to the level of the walls
+of the nave are still quite perfect, though the west window is gone and
+parts of the adjacent walls have perished. The north transept has
+fallen, but the southern transept is still in fair condition, lighted at
+the end by a pair of round-headed windows, with a circular one above; a
+semicircular arch on its eastern side opens into a chapel. The choir is
+also well preserved. These ruins exhibit semicircular with pointed
+arches in indiscriminate combination, and during the present century
+decay has caused much of them to fall. It was to Llanthony that Walter
+Savage Landor removed in 1809, selling much of his family estates in
+order to buy it. He projected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span> grand improvements, including the
+restoration of the priory, the construction of roads and bridges, and
+the cultivation of extensive tracts on the mountainside, so that it
+became of note among literary men as the home of one of the most
+original of their guild. His biographer tells us that he imported sheep
+from Segovia, and applied to Southey and other friends to furnish him
+tenants who would introduce improved agricultural methods. The
+inhabitants of this remote region were morose and impoverished, and he
+wished to reclaim them. To clothe the bare spots on the flanks of the
+mountains, he bought two thousand cones of the cedars of Lebanon, each
+calculated to produce a hundred seeds, and he often exulted "in the
+thought of the million cedar trees which he would thus leave for shelter
+and the delight of posterity." But he met the fate of many projectors.
+After four years' struggle he became disgusted with Llanthony and its
+people: he was in a quarrel with almost everybody, and his genius for
+punctiliousness had turned nearly the whole neighborhood against him. He
+had sunk his capital in the estate and its improvements, and becoming
+embarrassed, it was taken out of his hands and vested in trustees. His
+half-built house was pulled down, and the disgusted Landor left England
+for the Continent. At Llanthony he composed Latin verses and English
+tragedy, but his best literary labor was performed after he left there.
+A few miles farther up the valley is Capel-y-Ffyn, where Father Ignatius
+within a few years has erected his Anglican monastery. He was Rev. Mr.
+Lyne, and came from Norwich, where he was in frequent collision with the
+bishop. After much pother and notoriety he took his Protestant monastic
+settlement to this nook in the heart of the Black Mountains, where he
+and his monks perform their orisons in peace.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;">
+<a name="p374" id="p374"></a>
+<img src="images/p374.jpg" width="369" height="600" alt="LLANTHONY&mdash;THE SOUTH TRANSEPT, FROM THE NAVE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LLANTHONY&mdash;THE SOUTH TRANSEPT, FROM THE NAVE.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>NEWPORT, CARDIFF, AND LLANDAFF.</h3>
+
+<p>We now follow down the Usk, and at its mouth upon the Severn estuary is
+Newport, in Monmouthshire, where there are large docks and a
+considerable trade. The ruins of Newport Castle stand on the western
+bank of the river. In the suburbs is Caerleon, where the Romans long had
+the garrison-post of the second Augustan legion. The museum here is
+filled with Roman remains, and the amphitheatre, called "King Arthur's
+Round Table," is alongside. Proceeding westward about twelve miles along
+the shore of the Severn estuary, we come to Penarth Roads in
+Glamorganshire, sheltered under a bold headland at the mouths of the Ely
+and the Taff, and the flourishing Welsh seaport of Cardiff on the banks
+of the latter stream. This is the outport of the Welsh coal and iron
+region, and the Marquis of Bute, who is a large landowner here, has done
+much to develop its enormous trade, which goes to all parts of the
+world. Its name is derived from Caer Taff, the fortress on the river
+Taff, and in early times the Welsh established a castle there, but the
+present one was of later construction, having been built by Robert
+Fitzhamon, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Glamorgan. It was afterwards
+strongly fortified, and here the unfortunate Robert, son of William the
+Conqueror, was imprisoned for twenty-eight years by his brother Henry
+I., his eyes being put out for his greater security. The tower where he
+was confined still stands alongside the entrance gateway, and during his
+long captivity we are told that he soothed his weariness by becoming a
+poet. The ancient keep remains standing on its circular mound, but the
+castle has been restored and modernized by the Marquis of Bute, who
+occasionally resides there, and has given it a fine western front
+flanked by a massive octagonal tower. The moat is filled up, and, with
+the acclivities of the ramparts, is made a public walk and garden. In
+the valley of the Taff, a short distance from Cardiff, is the famous
+"Rocking Stone," standing on the western brink of a hill called
+Coed-pen-maen, or the "Wood of the Stone Summit." It was anciently a
+Druids' altar, and with a surface of about one hundred square feet is
+only two to three feet thick, so that it contains about two hundred and
+fifty cubic feet of stone. It is the rough argillaceous sandstone that
+accompanies the coal-measures in this part of Wales, and a moderate
+force gives it quite a rocking motion, which can be easily continued
+with one hand. It stands nearly in equilibrium upon a pivotal rock
+beneath. Two miles from Cardiff is the ancient and straggling village of
+Llandaff, which was the seat of the earliest Christian bishopric in
+Wales, having been founded in the fourth century. Its cathedral, for a
+long time dilapidated, has within a few years been thoroughly restored.
+All the valleys<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> in the hilly region tributary to Cardiff are full of
+coal and iron, the mining and smelting of which have made enormous
+fortunes for their owners and developed a vast industry there within the
+present century. About nine miles north of Cardiff is Caerphilly Castle,
+which has the most remarkable leaning tower in Britain, it being more
+inclined from the perpendicular than any other that is known. It is
+about eighty feet high, and leans over a distance of eleven feet. It
+rests only on a part of its southern side, and maintains its position
+chiefly through the strength of the cement. This castle was built by the
+De Clares in the reign of Henry III., and large additions were made to
+it by Hugh Despenser, who garrisoned it for Edward II. in order to check
+the Welsh. It is a large concentric castle, covering about thirty acres,
+having three distinct wards, seven gate-houses, and thirty portcullises.
+It was here that Edward II. and his favorites, the Despensers, were
+besieged by the queen in 1326. The defence was well conducted, and the
+besiegers were greatly annoyed by melted metal thrown down on them from
+the walls, which was heated in furnaces still remaining at the foot of
+the tower. They made a desperate assault, which was partially
+successful, though it ultimately failed; and we are told that while in
+the castle they let the red-hot metal run out of the furnaces, and,
+throwing water on it from the moat, caused an explosion which tore the
+tower from its foundations and left it in its present condition. The
+fissures made by the explosion are still visible, and it has stood thus
+for over five centuries. The castle ultimately surrendered, the king
+having previously escaped. The Despensers were beheaded, and their
+castle never regained its ancient splendor.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SWANSEA.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p377" id="p377"></a>
+<img src="images/p377.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="NORTH DOCK, SWANSEA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORTH DOCK, SWANSEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Journeying westward from Cardiff along the coast of Glamorganshire, upon
+the Bristol Channel, we come to the Welsh Bay of Naples, where the
+chimneys replace the volcano of Vesuvius as smoke-producers. This is the
+Bay of Swansea, a very fine one, extending for several miles in a grand
+curve from Porthcawl headland on the eastern verge around to the
+Mumbles, where a bold limestone cliff runs far out into the sea and
+forms a natural breakwater. Within this magnificent bay, with its wooded
+and villa-lined shores, there is a spot that discloses the bare brown
+hills guarding the entrance to the valley of the river Tawe, up which
+the houses of Swansea climb, with a dense cloud of smoke overhanging
+them that is evolved from the smelting-furnaces and collieries behind
+the town. Forests of masts appear where the smoke permits them to be
+visible, and then to the right hand another gap and overhanging
+smoke-cloud marks the valley of the Neath. The ancient Britons called
+the place Aber-tawe, from the river, and there are various derivations
+of the present<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> name. Some say it came from flocks of swans appearing in
+the bay, and others from the porpoises or sea-swine, so that the reader
+may take his choice of Swan-sea or Swine-sea. In the twelfth century it
+was known as Sweynsey, and perhaps the best authority says the name came
+from Sweyne, a Scandinavian who frequented that coast with his ships.
+When the Normans invaded Glamorgan, Henry Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick,
+captured Swansea, and in the twelfth century built a castle there. King
+John gave it a charter, and it became a town of some importance, as he
+granted it extensive trading-privileges. In another charter, given by
+the lord of the manor in 1305, the first allusion is made to Welsh coal,
+for the people among other privileges are allowed to dig "pit-coal in
+Ballywasta." Thus began the industry that has become the mainstay of
+prosperity in South Wales. Warwick's Castle at Swansea has entirely
+disappeared, the present ruins being those of a castle afterwards built
+by Henry de Gower, who became Bishop of St. David's. What is left of it
+is almost hidden by modern buildings. It has the remains of a
+curtain-wall and two towers, the larger of which has an arcade beneath<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span>
+the battlement&mdash;an unusual but pleasing feature. Lewellyn harassed the
+town and castle, but it had not much history until the Civil War, when
+there was a little fighting for its possession. A Parliamentary ship
+appeared in the bay and demanded the surrender of the town, which was
+refused; but in the following year the Parliamentary troops captured it.
+Subsequently the castle changed hands several times&mdash;the guide-book
+states "rather politically than gloriously." Cromwell ultimately took
+possession in 1648, resided at Swansea for some time as lord of the
+manor, and was very liberal to the town. The castle was dismantled and
+partly destroyed, the keep being used as a jail. Swansea, like all the
+cities in the Welsh coal and metal region, has grown greatly during the
+present century. Walter Savage Landor lived here for a while, just when
+the copper-works were beginning to appear in the valley of the Tawe.
+Their smoke defiled the landscape, and he exclaimed, "Would to God there
+was no trade upon earth!" He preferred Swansea Bay above the gulf of
+Salerno or of Naples, and wrote, "Give me Swansea for scenery and
+climate! If ever it should be my fortune to return to England, I would
+pass the remainder of my days in the neighborhood of Swansea, between
+that place and the Mumbles."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p378" id="p378"></a>
+<img src="images/p378.jpg" width="600" height="521" alt="SWANSEA CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SWANSEA CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Swansea's earliest dock was made by walling a tidal inlet called Port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span>
+Tennant, and is still used. Its former great dock was the North Dock,
+constructed in the old bed of the Tawe, a newer and more direct channel
+being made for the river. It has two recently-constructed and larger
+docks. Up the valley of the Tawe the town spreads several miles, and
+here are the enormous copper-works and smelting-furnaces which make a
+reproduction of the infernal regions, defile the air, but fill the
+purses of the townsfolk. Swansea is the greatest copper-smelting d&eacute;p&ocirc;t
+in the world, drawing its ores from all parts of the globe. There had
+been copper-works on the Neath three centuries ago, but the first upon
+the Tawe were established in 1745. From them have grown the fame and
+wealth of the Cornish family of the Vivians, who have been
+copper-smelters for three generations at Swansea, and in front of the
+town-hall stands the statue of the "Copper King," the late John Henry
+Vivian, who represented Swansea in Parliament. There are also iron,
+zinc, lead, and tin-plate works, making this a great metallurgical
+centre, while within forty miles there are over five hundred collieries,
+some existing at the very doors of the smelting-works. It is cheap fuel
+that has made the fortune of Swansea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p379" id="p379"></a>
+<img src="images/p379.jpg" width="600" height="445" alt="THE MUMBLES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MUMBLES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The bold promontory of the Mumbles, which bounds Swansea Bay to the
+westward, has become a popular watering-place, into which it has
+gradually developed from the fishing-village nestling under Oystermouth
+Castle. The bay was once a great producer of oysters, and dredging for
+them was the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> chief industry of the inhabitants. The remains of the
+castle stand upon a knoll overlooking the sea, and with higher hills
+behind. The Duke of Beaufort, to whom it belongs, keeps the ruins
+carefully protected, and they are in rather good preservation. The plan
+is polygonal, approaching a triangle, with its apex towards the sea,
+where was the only entrance, a gateway guarded by two round towers, of
+which only the inner face now remains. The interior court is small, with
+the keep at the north-eastern angle, having a chapel at the top. There
+are some other apartments with vaulted chambers underground. Henry de
+Bellamont is believed to have built this fortress at about the time of
+the construction of Swansea Castle, but it has not contributed much to
+history, though now a picturesque ruin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 539px;">
+<a name="p380" id="p380"></a>
+<img src="images/p380.jpg" width="539" height="550" alt="OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the eastern side of Swansea Bay enters the Vale of Neath, where is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span>
+also a manufacturing town of rapid growth, while within the Vale is
+beautiful scenery. Neath is of great antiquity, having been the Nidum of
+the days of Antoninus. At the Crumlyn Bog, where white lilies blossom on
+the site of an ancient lake, legend says is entombed a primitive city,
+in proof whereof strains of unearthly music may be occasionally heard
+issuing from beneath the waters. In the valley on the western bank of
+the river are the extensive ruins of Neath Abbey, said once to have been
+the fairest in all Wales. This religious house was founded by Richard de
+Granville in the twelfth century, but its present buildings are of later
+date. Within its walls Edward II. took refuge when he escaped from
+Caerphilly, for it had the privilege of sanctuary; but after leaving
+Neath a faithless monk betrayed him, and he was put to death most
+cruelly at Berkeley Castle. Only a ruined gateway remains of Neath
+Castle, blackened by the smoke of smelting-works.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p381" id="p381"></a>
+<img src="images/p381.jpg" width="600" height="392" alt="NEATH ABBEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NEATH ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>CAERMARTHEN AND PEMBROKE.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding westward along the coast of the jutting peninsula formed by
+South Wales, another grand bay indents the shore, and on the bold banks
+of the Towy is Caermarthen, which gives the bay its name. Here there was
+a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span> Roman station, on the site of which the castle was built, but by whom
+is not accurately known. The Parliamentarians captured and dismantled
+it, and it has since fallen into almost complete decay, though part was
+occupied as a jail till the last century. In Caermarthen Church, Richard
+Steele the essayist is buried, while from the parade is a beautiful view
+up the Vale of Towy towards Merlin's Hill and Abergwili, which was the
+home of that renowned sage. Around the sweeping shores of Caermarthen
+Bay, about fifteen miles to the westward, is Tenby Castle, the town, now
+a watering-place, being singularly situated on the eastern and southern
+sides of a narrow rocky peninsula entirely surrounded by the sea,
+excepting to the northward. This was the Welsh "Precipice of Fishes,"
+and its castle was strongly fortified. It stood a five days' siege from
+Cromwell, and its shattered ruins, with the keep on the summit of the
+hill, show a strong fortress. From the top there is a magnificent view
+of the neighboring shores and far across the sea to the lofty coasts of
+Devonshire. Manorbeer Castle, belonging to Lord Milford, is near Tenby,
+and is considered the best structure of its class in Wales. It is the
+carefully-preserved home of an old Norman baron, with its church, mill,
+dove-house, pond, park, and grove, and "the houses of his vassals at
+such distance as to be within call." The buildings have stone roofs,
+most of which are perfect, and it has been tenantless, yet carefully
+preserved, since the Middle Ages. Parts of it have stood for six
+centuries. In the upper portion of the Vale of Towy is the Golden Grove,
+a seat of the Earl of Cawdor, a modern Elizabethan structure. Here lived
+Jeremy Taylor, having taken refuge there in the Civil War, and he here
+wrote some of his greatest works.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Caermarthenshire is Pembrokeshire, forming the western extremity
+of the Welsh peninsula. The river Cleddan, flowing south-westward,
+broadens at its mouth into the estuary known as Milford Haven. It
+receives a western branch, on the side of which is the county-town,
+Haverfordwest, placed on a hill where the De Clares founded a castle, of
+which little now remains but the keep, used (as so many of them now are)
+as the county-jail. Cromwell demolished this castle after it fell into
+his hands. The great promontory of St. David's Head juts out into the
+sea sixteen miles to the westward. The Cleddan flows down between the
+towns of Pembroke and Milford. The ruins of Pembroke Castle upon a high
+rock disclose an enormous circular keep, seventy-five feet high and one
+hundred and sixty-three feet in circumference. It was begun in the
+eleventh century, and was the birthplace of Henry VII. in 1456. Here
+Cromwell was repulsed in 1648, but the fortress was secured for the
+Parliament after six weeks' siege. The garrison were reduced to great
+straits, but were only subdued by the skilful use of artillery in
+battering down the stairway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span> leading to the well where they got their
+water: the spring that supplied them is still there. Pembroke has
+extensive trade, and its shipbuilding dockyard covers eighty acres.
+Opposite this dockyard is Milford, the harbor being a mile and a half
+wide. The railway from London runs down to the pier, and passengers are
+transferred to steamers for Ireland, this being the terminus of the
+Great Western Railway route, two hundred and eighty-five miles from the
+metropolis. Milford Haven, at which we close this descriptive journey,
+stretches for ten miles inland from the sea, varying from one to two
+miles in breadth, affords ample anchorage, and is strongly fortified.
+The ancient Pictou Castle guards the junction of the two branches of the
+Cleddan above Milford, while Carew Castle stands on a creek entering
+Milford Haven on the south-eastern shore, and is an august though ruined
+relic of the baronial splendors of the Middle Ages. It well represents
+the condition of most of the seacoast castles in this part of Wales, of
+one of which Dyer has written.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"His sides are clothed with waving wood,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And ancient towers crown his brow.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That cast an awful look below;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose rugged sides the ivy creeps,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And with her arms from falling keeps.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis now the raven's bleak abode;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis now th' apartment of the toad;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And there the fox securely feeds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And there the poisonous adder breeds,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Concealed in ruins, moss, and weeds;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">While ever and anon there fall</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huge heaps of hoary, mouldered wall.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet time has seen, that lifts the low</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And level lays the lofty brow,&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Has seen this broken pile complete,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Big with the vanity of state;&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But transient is the smile of fate."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII.</h2>
+
+<h3>LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Virginia Water&mdash;Sunninghill&mdash;Ascot&mdash;Wokingham&mdash;Bearwood&mdash;The London
+<i>Times</i>&mdash;White Horse Hill&mdash;Box Tunnel&mdash;Salisbury&mdash;Salisbury
+Plain&mdash;Old Sarum&mdash;Stonehenge&mdash;Amesbury&mdash;Wilton House&mdash;The Earls of
+Pembroke&mdash;Carpet-making&mdash;Bath&mdash;William
+Beckford&mdash;Fonthill&mdash;Bristol&mdash;William
+Canynge&mdash;Chatterton&mdash;Clifton&mdash;Brandon Hill&mdash;Wells&mdash;The
+Mendips&mdash;Jocelyn&mdash;Beckington&mdash;Ralph of Shrewsbury&mdash;Thomas Ken&mdash;The
+Cheddar Cliffs&mdash;The Wookey Hole&mdash;The Black Down&mdash;The Isle of
+Avelon-Glastonbury&mdash;Weary-all Hill&mdash;Sedgemoor&mdash;The Isle of
+Athelney&mdash;Bridgewater&mdash;Oldmixon&mdash;Monmouth's Rebellion&mdash;Weston
+Zoyland&mdash;King Alfred&mdash;Sherborne&mdash;Sir Walter Raleigh&mdash;The Coast of
+Dorset&mdash;Poole&mdash;Wareham&mdash;Isle of Purbeck&mdash;Corfe Castle&mdash;The
+Foreland&mdash;Swanage&mdash;St. Aldhelm's Head&mdash;Weymouth&mdash;Portland Isle and
+Bill&mdash;The Channel Islands&mdash;Jersey&mdash;Corbi&egrave;re Promontory&mdash;Mount
+Orgueil&mdash;Alderney&mdash;Guernsey&mdash;Castle Cornet&mdash;The Southern Coast of
+Devon&mdash;Abbotsbury&mdash;Lyme
+Regis&mdash;Axminster&mdash;Sidmouth&mdash;Exmouth&mdash;Exeter&mdash;William, Prince of
+Orange&mdash;Exeter Cathedral&mdash;Bishop
+Trelawney&mdash;Dawlish&mdash;Teignmouth&mdash;Hope's Nose&mdash;Babbicombe Bay&mdash;Anstis
+Cove&mdash;Torbay&mdash;Torquay&mdash;Brixham&mdash;Dartmoor&mdash;The River
+Dart&mdash;Totnes&mdash;Berry Pomeroy Castle&mdash;Dartmouth&mdash;The River Plym&mdash;The
+Dewerstone&mdash;Plympton Priory&mdash;Sir Joshua Reynolds&mdash;Catwater
+Haven&mdash;Plymouth&mdash;Stonehouse&mdash;Devonport&mdash;Eddystone
+Lighthouse&mdash;Tavistock Abbey&mdash;Buckland Abbey&mdash;Lydford Castle&mdash;The
+Northern Coast of Devon&mdash;Exmoor&mdash;Minehead&mdash;Dunster&mdash;Dunkery
+Beacon&mdash;Porlock Bay&mdash;The River Lyn&mdash;Oare&mdash;Lorna Doone&mdash;Jan
+Ridd&mdash;Lynton&mdash;Lynmouth&mdash;Castle Rock&mdash;The Devil's Cheese-Ring&mdash;Combe
+Martin&mdash;Ilfracombe&mdash;Morte
+Point&mdash;Morthoe&mdash;Barnstaple&mdash;Bideford&mdash;Clovelly&mdash;Lundy
+Island&mdash;Cornwall&mdash;Tintagel&mdash;Launceston&mdash;Liskeard&mdash;Fowey&mdash;Lizard
+Peninsula&mdash;Falmouth&mdash;Pendennis Castle&mdash;Helston&mdash;Mullyon
+Cove&mdash;Smuggling&mdash;Kynance Cove&mdash;The Post-Office&mdash;Old Lizard
+Head&mdash;Polpeor&mdash;St. Michael's Mount&mdash;Penzance&mdash;Pilchard
+Fishery&mdash;Penwith&mdash;Land's End.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<h3>ASCOT AND BEARWOOD.</h3>
+
+<p>Leaving London by the South-western Railway, and skirting along the edge
+of Windsor Park, we pass Virginia Water, the largest artificial lake in
+England. Upon its bosom float miniature frigates, and its banks are
+bordered by a Chinese fishing temple, and a colonnade which was brought
+from the African coast near Tunis. Here also are a hermitage overlooking
+the lake, and the triangular turreted building known as the Belvedere,
+where a battery of guns is kept that was used in the wars of the last
+century. Not far beyond is Sunninghill, near which was Pope's early
+home, and in the garden of the vicarage are three trees planted by
+Burke, Chesterfield, and Bolingbroke. Farther westward is the famous
+Ascot race-course on Ascot Heath, where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> races are run in June upon
+a circular course of about two miles, the neighborhood containing many
+handsome villas. Still journeying westward, the route passes Wokingham,
+where Gay, Swift, Pope, and Arbuthnot were on one occasion detained at
+the Rose Inn in wet weather, and whiled away the time by composing the
+song of "Molly Mog."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p385" id="p385"></a>
+<img src="images/p385.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="BEARWOOD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BEARWOOD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Just beyond Wokingham is the fine estate of Bearwood, the seat of John
+Walter, Esq., the proprietor of the London <i>Times</i>, one of the stately
+rural homes of England. Here, in a large and beautiful park which
+retains much of its original forest character, and standing upon the
+terraced bank of a lovely lake, Bearwood House has within a few years
+been entirely rebuilt, its feature being the central picture-gallery
+containing a fine collection of paintings, around which clusters a suite
+of grand apartments. The estate includes several thousand acres, and in
+the many pleasant cottages scattered over it and the homes at Bearwood
+village many of the aged and infirm employ&eacute;s of the <i>Times</i> pass their
+declining years. The <i>Times</i>, which was founded January 1, 1788, by the
+grandfather of the present proprietor, has steadily grown in commanding
+influence until it occupies the front rank in English journalism and is
+the leading newspaper of the kingdom. Its proprietor has recently
+entirely rebuilt its publication-offices in Printing-House Square and on
+Queen Victoria Street in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span> London, adapting all the modern appliances of
+improved machinery and methods to its publication. It is at Bearwood,
+however, that his philanthropic ideas also find a broad field of
+usefulness in caring for those who have grown gray in the service of the
+<i>Times</i>, and thither every year go the entire corps of employ&eacute;s to enjoy
+an annual picnic under the spreading foliage of the park, while no home
+in England is more frequented by Americans or extends to kin from across
+sea a more generous hospitality.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>KING ALFRED'S WHITE HORSE.</h3>
+
+<p>In the chalk hills of Berkshire, beyond Reading and north of Hungerford,
+there rises an eminence over nine hundred feet high, known as the White
+Horse Hill. It is a famous place; upon the summit, covering a dozen
+acres, and from which eleven counties can be seen, there is a
+magnificent Roman camp, with gates, ditch, and mound as complete as when
+the legions left it. To the westward of the hill, and under its shadow,
+was the battlefield of Ashdown, where Alfred defeated the Danes and
+broke their power in 871. He fought eight other battles against the
+Danes that year, but they were mere skirmishes compared with the
+decisive victory of Ashdown, and in memory of it he ordered his army to
+carve the White Horse on the hillside as the emblem of the standard of
+Hengist. It is cut out of the turf, and can be seen to a great distance,
+being three hundred and seventy-four feet long. After a spell of bad
+weather it gets out of condition, and can only be restored to proper
+form by being scoured, this ceremony bringing a large concourse of
+people from all the neighboring villages. The festival was held in 1857,
+and the old White Horse was then brought back into proper form with much
+pomp and great rejoicing. The ancient balladist thus quaintly describes
+the festivity on these memorable occasions:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The owld White Harse wants zettin to rights, and the squire hev promised good cheer,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zo we'll gee un a scrape to kip un in zhape, and a'll last for many a year.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A was made a lang, lang time ago, wi a good dale o' labor and pains.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By King Alferd the Great, when he spwiled their consate and caddled<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> thay wosbirds<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a> the Danes.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Bleawin Stwun in days gone by wur King Alferd's bugle harn,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the tharnin tree you med plainly zee as is called King Alferd's tharn.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There'll be backsword play, and climmin the powl, and a race for a peg, and a cheese.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And us thenks as hisn's a dummell<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">[D]</a> zowl as dwont care for zich spwoorts as theze."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Leaving London by the Great Western Railway, and passing beyond
+Berkshire, we cross the boundary into Wiltshire, and go through the
+longest rail<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span>way-tunnel in England, the noted Box Tunnel, which is a
+mile and three-quarters in length and cost over $2,500,000 to construct.
+It goes through a ridge of great-oolite, from which the valuable
+bath-stone is quarried, and the railway ultimately brings us to the
+cathedral city that boasts the tallest church-spire in
+England&mdash;Salisbury, the county-town of Wiltshire, standing in the valley
+formed by the confluence of three rivers, the Avon, Bourne, and Wiley.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> caddled, worried.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> wosbirds, birds of evil omen.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> dummell, stupid.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<h3>SALISBURY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p387" id="p387"></a>
+<img src="images/p387.jpg" width="500" height="344" alt="SALISBURY CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SALISBURY CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The celebrated cathedral, which in some respects may be considered the
+earliest in England, is the chief object at Salisbury, and was founded
+by Bishop Poore in 1220. It was the first great church built in the
+Early English style, and its spire is among the most imposing Gothic
+constructions in existence. The city of Salisbury is unique in having
+nothing Roman, Saxon, or Norman in its origin, and in being even without
+the remains of a baronial fortress. It is a purely English city, and,
+though it was surrounded by walls, they were merely boundaries of the
+dominions of the ecclesiastics. The see of Salisbury in 1215 was removed
+from Old Sarum to its present location in consequence of the frequent
+contests between the clergy and the castellans, and soon afterwards the
+construction of the cathedral began. King Henry III. granted the church
+a weekly market and an annual fair lasting eight days, and the
+symmetrical arrangement of the streets is said to have been caused by
+the original laying out of the city in spaces "seven perches each in
+length and three in breadth," as the historian tells us. The cathedral
+close, which is surrounded by a wall, has four gateways, and the best
+view of the cathedral is from the north-eastern side of the close, but a
+more distant view&mdash;say from a mile away&mdash;brings out the proportions of
+the universally admired spire to much greater advantage. The chief
+cathedral entrance is by the north porch, which is a fine and lofty
+structure, lined with a double arcade and having an upper chamber. The
+nave is beautiful, though it suffers somewhat in warmth of coloring from
+lacking stained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> glass, and the cloisters, which are entered from the
+south-western transept, are admirable, being of later date and
+exhibiting a more developed style than the remainder of the cathedral.
+Their graceful windows and long gray arcades contrast splendidly with
+the greensward of the cloister-garth. They include an octagonal
+chapter-house, fifty-eight feet in diameter and fifty-two feet high,
+which has been restored in memory of a recent bishop at a cost of
+$260,000. The restoration has enriched the house with magnificent
+sculptures representing Old-Testament history, and the restoration of
+the cathedral is also progressing. The adjoining episcopal palace is an
+irregular but picturesque pile of buildings, with a gateway tower that
+is a prominent feature.</p>
+
+<p>Salisbury has plenty of old houses, like most English towns, and it also
+has a large square market-place, containing the Gothic Poultry Cross, a
+most graceful stone structure, and also the council-house of modern
+erection, in front of which is a statue of Sidney Herbert. Its ancient
+banquet-hall, built four hundred years ago by John Halle, and having a
+lofty timber roof and an elaborately-carved oak screen, is now used as
+the show-room for a shop.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p388" id="p388"></a>
+<img src="images/p388.jpg" width="500" height="420" alt="SALISBURY MARKET." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SALISBURY MARKET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the northward of Salisbury is that region filled with prehistoric
+relics known as Salisbury Plain. Here are ancient fortresses, barrows,
+and sepulchral mounds, earthworks, dykes, and trenches, roadways of the
+Roman and the Briton, and the great British stronghold, guarding the
+southern entrance to the plain, which became the Old Sarum of later
+times. Until within a century this plain was a solitary and almost
+abandoned region, but now there are good roads crossing it and much of
+the land is cultivated. It is a great triangular chalk-measure, each
+side roughly estimated at twenty miles long. The Bourne, Wiley, and Avon
+flow through it to meet near Salisbury, and all the bolder heights
+between their valleys are marked by ancient fortifications. Wiltshire is
+thus said to be divided between chalk and cheese, for the northern
+district<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> beyond the plain is a great dairy region. Let us journey
+northward from Salisbury across the plain, and as we enter its southern
+border there rises up almost at the edge the conical hill of Old Sarum,
+crowned by intrenchments. When they were made is not known, but in 552
+they were a British defence against the Saxons, who captured them after
+a bitter fight and overran the plain. Five centuries later William the
+Norman reviewed his army here, and after the first Domesday survey
+summoned all the landholders of England to the number of sixty thousand,
+who here swore fealty to him. The Normans strengthened it with a castle,
+and soon a cathedral also rose at Old Sarum, while a town grew around
+them. But all have disappeared, though now there can be traced the
+outlines of streets and houses and the foundations of the old cathedral.
+When the clergy removed to Salisbury it is said they determined the new
+site by an arrow shot from the ramparts of Old Sarum, and moving the
+cathedral soon attracted the people. Old Sarum for some time remained a
+strong fortress with many houses, but the cathedral was taken down in
+1331 and its materials used for building the famous spire at Salisbury.
+The castle decayed, the town was gradually deserted, and as long ago as
+the sixteenth century we are told there was not a single house left
+there. And such it is to this day. Climbing the steep face of the hill,
+the summit is found fenced by a vast earthen rampart and ditch enclosing
+twenty-seven acres with an irregular circle, the height from the bottom
+of the ditch to the top of the rampart being over one hundred feet. A
+smaller inner rampart as high as the outer one made the central citadel.
+Nearly all the stone has long ago been carried off to build Salisbury,
+and weeds and brushwood have overrun the remarkable fortress that has
+come down to us from such venerable antiquity. Under the English
+"rotten-borough" system Old Sarum enjoyed the privilege of sending two
+members to Parliament for three centuries after it ceased to be
+inhabited. The old tree under which the election was held still exists,
+and the elder Pitt, who lived near by, was first sent to Parliament as a
+representative of Old Sarum's vacant mounds.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>STONEHENGE.</h3>
+
+<p>A few miles' farther journey to the northward over the hills and
+valleys, and among the sheep that also wander on Salisbury Plain, brings
+us to that remarkable relic of earlier ages which is probably the
+greatest curiosity in England&mdash;Stonehenge. When the gigantic stones were
+put there, and what for, no man knows. Many are the unanswered questions
+asked about them, for the poet says:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Thou noblest monument of Albion's isle!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whether by Merlin's aid from Scythia's shore</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To Amber's fatal plain Pendragon bore,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huge frame of giant hands, the mighty pile,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To entomb his Britons slain by Hengist's guile:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Or Druid priests, sprinkled with human gore,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Taught 'mid thy massy maze their mystic lore;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or Danish chiefs, enriched by savage spoil,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To Victory's idol vast, an unhewn shrine,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reared the huge heap; or, in thy hallowed round,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Repose the kings of Brutus' genuine line;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or here those kings in solemn state were crowned;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Studious to trace thy wondrous origin,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We muse on many an ancient tale renowned."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p390" id="p390"></a>
+<img src="images/p390.jpg" width="650" height="253" alt="STONEHENGE, FROM THE NORTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">STONEHENGE, FROM THE NORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Stonehenge is about nine miles north of Salisbury, near the town of
+Amesbury, where another ancient camp, known as "The Ramparts," crowns a
+wooded hill, around which the Avon flows, the camp enclosing nearly
+forty acres. Stonehenge stands in a bleak, bare situation on Salisbury
+Plain, and in its original perfection, as nearly as can now be judged,
+consisted of two concentric circles and two ellipses of upright stones,
+surrounded by a bank and ditch, outside of which is a single upright
+stone and traces of a hippodrome. The entrance to the cluster of circles
+was from the north-east, and the avenue to it is still traceable by the
+banks of earth. The outer circle at Stonehenge originally consisted of
+thirty upright stones fixed in the ground at intervals of about three
+and a half feet. On the top of them thirty other stones formed a
+continuous ring about sixteen feet above the ground. Within this circle,
+and leaving a space about nine feet wide between, was another circle of
+thirty or forty unhewn stones about four to seven feet high. Within
+this, again, was the grandest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> part of the structure&mdash;a great ellipse
+formed of five triplets of stones or trilithons, each composed of two
+uprights and one placed crosswise. Within these was the inner ellipse of
+nineteen obelisks surrounding the altar-stone. Such was Stonehenge
+originally, but its ruins now appear very differently, and are only a
+confused pile of huge stones, for the most part such as are found on the
+neighboring plain and known as sarsens (a siliceous sandstone), though
+some of the smaller ones may be boulders brought from a distance. The
+diameter of the enclosure is three hundred and thirty-six feet. On the
+outer circle sixteen of the uprights and six of the surmounting stones
+forming the ring remain in their original positions. Two of the inner
+trilithons, the highest rising twenty-five feet, remain perfect, and
+there are two single uprights, which lean considerably. The flat slab or
+altar-stone is lying on the ground. The avenue of approach opens in
+front of the inner ellipse and in a line with the altar-stone. In the
+avenue, outside the enclosure, is a block sixteen feet high in a leaning
+position, and known as the Friar's Heel. The legend tells us that when
+the great Enemy of the human race was raising Stonehenge he muttered to
+himself that no one would ever know how it was done. A passing friar,
+hearing him, exclaimed, "That's more than thee can tell," and then fled.
+The Enemy flung this great stone after him, but hit only the friar's
+heel. The investigators of Stonehenge say that when standing on the
+altar-stone the midsummer sun is seen to rise to the north-east directly
+over the "Friar's Heel." The traces of the avenue in which it stands
+are, however, soon found to divide into two smaller avenues, one running
+south-east and the other north, and the latter is connected beyond with
+a long enclosure called the Cursus, and marked by banks of earth
+stretching east and west for about a mile and a half: there is nothing
+known of its use. The whole country about Stonehenge is dotted with
+groups of sepulchral barrows, and at the western end of the Cursus is a
+cluster of them more prominent than the others, and known as the "Seven
+Burrows." Stonehenge itself inspires with mystery and awe, the blocks
+being gray with lichens and worn by centuries of storms. Reference to
+them is found in the earliest chronicles of Britain, and countless
+legends are told of their origin and history, they usually being traced
+to mythical hands. In James I.'s reign Stonehenge was said to be a Roman
+temple, dedicated to C&oelig;lus; subsequently, it was attributed to the
+Danes, the Ph&oelig;nicians, the Britons, and the Druids by various
+writers. Sir Richard Hoare, who has studied the mystery most closely,
+declines all these theories, and says the monument is grand but
+"voiceless." Horace Walpole shrewdly observes that whoever examines
+Stonehenge attributes it to that class of antiquity of which he is
+himself most fond; and thus it remains an insoluble problem to puzzle
+the investigator and impress<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> the tourist. Michael Drayton plaintively
+and quaintly confesses that no one has yet solved the mystery:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Dull heape, that thus thy head above the rest doest reare,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Precisely yet not know'st who first did place thee there.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ill did those mightie men to trust thee with their storie;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thou hast forgot their names who rear'd thee for their glorie;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For all their wondrous cost, thou that hast serv'd them so,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What 'tis to trust to tombes by thee we easily know."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>WILTON HOUSE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p392" id="p392"></a>
+<img src="images/p392.jpg" width="650" height="240" alt="SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF WILTON HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF WILTON HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p393-1" id="p393-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 445px;">
+<img src="images/p393-1.jpg" width="445" height="450" alt="FIRE-PLACE IN DOUBLE-CUBE ROOM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FIRE-PLACE IN DOUBLE-CUBE ROOM.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Returning along the valley of the Avon past the almost lifeless town of
+Amesbury, where there formerly was a grand Benedictine monastery long
+since gone to decay, we cross over to the Wiley Vale, and at about three
+miles distance from Salisbury come to the Earl of Pembroke's seat at
+Wilton House. The ancient town of Wilton&mdash;or, as it was originally
+called, Willytown&mdash;stands at the confluence of the rivers Nadder and
+Wiley. The Britons established it, and it was one of the capitals of the
+West Saxons. It was famous long before the Norman Conquest, and it
+afterwards obtained renown from the number and importance of its
+monastic establishments, having had no less than twelve parish churches,
+though not a trace of its abbey now remains. Henry VIII. dissolved it,
+and gave the site and buildings to Sir William Herbert, who was
+afterwards created Earl of Pembroke, and from its relics Wilton House
+was largely constructed. The town is now chiefly noted as the
+manufactory of Axminster and Wilton carpets, dextrously woven by
+operatives who use most primitive machinery. The Earl's Park adjoins the
+town, and in it is Wilton House, one of the grandest palaces in England,
+standing upon the site of the abbey. The buildings were designed by
+Holbein, and the garden front being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span> burned in 1648, was rebuilt soon
+afterwards, while the entire structure was enlarged and remodelled
+during the present century, the cloisters being then added for the
+display of the fine collection of sculptures. The plan of the house is a
+quadrangle, with a glazed cloister occupying the central square. Within
+this cloister and the hall leading to it are the well-known Pembroke
+Marbles&mdash;statues, busts, urns, vases, bassi-relievi, and fragments of
+great value from Grecian and Roman works. This collection was formed
+during the last century, being gathered by the then earl from various
+sources. In the hall are statues, but its chief interest comes from the
+numerous suits of armor with which it is adorned, chiefly memorials of
+the battle of St. Quentin, fought in 1557, when the Earl of Pembroke
+commanded the British forces. One of the suits was worn by the earl
+himself, and two others by the Constable of France and the Duc de
+Montpensier, both being taken prisoner. On either side are entrances to
+various apartments containing valuable paintings. The chief of these is
+the "Family Picture," regarded as Vandyke's masterpiece&mdash;seventeen feet
+long and eleven feet high, and filling one end of the drawing-room. It
+contains ten full-length figures&mdash;Philip, Earl of Pembroke, and his
+countess and their children. Above them, hovering in the clouds, are
+three other children, who died in early life. In the Double Cube-room,
+which is regarded as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> a gem in its way and has a most magnificent
+fireplace, there are some thirteen other paintings by Vandyke. Other
+paintings by Italian masters are also distributed on the walls of the
+various apartments, but the Vandykes are regarded as the gems of the
+collection. The library is a large and lofty apartment, with an
+oak-panelled ceiling, and a fine collection of volumes with appropriate
+furnishing. Out of the library window the western view over the terrace
+discloses charming pleasure-grounds, laid out in the Italian style from
+designs by a former Countess of Pembroke, while in the background is a
+beautiful porch constructed by Holbein. To the gardens, summer-houses
+and conservatories add their attractions, while beyond is the valley of
+the Nadder, over which a picturesque bridge leads to the park. This
+bridge has an Ionic colonnade, and in the park are some of the finest
+cedars to be seen in the kingdom. Here, it is said, Sir Philip Sidney
+wrote <i>Arcadia</i>, and the work shows that he drew much inspiration from
+these gardens and grounds, for it abounds in lifelike descriptions of
+Nature.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p393-2" id="p393-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p393-2.jpg" width="500" height="387" alt="THE LIBRARY, WILTON HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LIBRARY, WILTON HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p394" id="p394"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 304px;">
+<img src="images/p394.jpg" width="304" height="450" alt="LIBRARY WINDOW." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIBRARY WINDOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />At Wilton also lived George Herbert the poet, and later Sidney Herbert,
+who was afterwards made Lord Herbert of Lea, and whose son is now the
+thirteenth Earl of Pembroke. A statue of Sidney Herbert has already been
+referred to as standing in Pall Mall, London, and another is in
+Salisbury. He was secretary of war, yet was the gentle and genial
+advocate of peace and charity to all mankind, and his premature death
+was regarded as a public calamity. He erected in 1844 the graceful New
+Church at Wilton. It was the Earls of Pembroke in the last century who
+were chiefly instrumental in bringing the manufacturers of fine carpets
+over from France and Flanders and laying the foundation of that trade,
+in which England now far surpasses those countries. The factory at
+Axminster, on the southern coast, was also afterwards transferred to
+Wilton. These carpets are all hand-made, and the higher class, which are
+an inch or more in thickness and of the softness of down when trod upon,
+are also of the most gorgeous design and brilliancy of colors.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BATH.</h3>
+
+<p>Crossing over the hills to the north-west of Salisbury Plain, we descend
+to the attractive valley of another river Avon, and come to the "Queen
+of all the Spas in the World," the city of Bath. It is the chief town of
+Somersetshire, and is surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. The abbey
+and principal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> streets are in the valley, while above, on its northern
+slope, rise terraces and crescents, tier upon tier, to a height of
+nearly eight hundred feet, the most conspicuous being the Royal and the
+Lansdowne Crescents. Many of the buildings are handsome, and are
+constructed of the white great-oolite, known as bath-stone. To its
+waters this famous resort owes its importance, but from an insignificant
+place Bath has risen to the highest point of popularity as a fashionable
+watering-place and in architectural magnificence through the genius of
+Architect Wood and Master-of-Ceremonies Beau Nash. The legendary king
+Bladud is said to have first discovered the Bath waters twenty-seven
+hundred years ago, and to have built a town there and dedicated the
+medicinal springs to Minerva, so that "Bladud's Well" has passed into a
+proverb of sparkling inexhaustibility. The Romans, passionately attached
+to the luxury of the hot springs, made Bath one of their chief stations,
+and here and in the neighborhood the foundations of their extensive
+buildings have been traced, with the remains of altars, baths,
+tessellated pavements, and ornaments, and few British towns can produce
+such a collection of Roman relics. In the height of the Roman power in
+the fifth century the city extended nearly three miles along the valley,
+and was surrounded by a wall twenty feet high and nine feet thick. Such
+a fascinating spot was naturally selected for the foundation of a
+religious house at an early period, and we consequently find that the
+abbey of Bath was built by King Offa in the eighth century, and
+refounded by King Edgar in the tenth century. It existed until the
+dissolution in 1539. The church fell into decay in the reign of Henry
+VII., and the present abbey-church was then built, being for a long time
+unfinished. It has recently been restored. It stands at the southern
+extremity of High Street, and is a fine specimen of Perpendicular
+Gothic, the plan being a cross, with a tower at the intersection rising
+one hundred and sixty-two feet and flanked by octagonal turrets. The
+church is two hundred and ten feet long, and has a fan-traced,
+stone-vaulted roof seventy-eight feet high, while the western front
+contains a magnificent window flanked by turrets carved with angels, who
+are ascending and descending, but have, unfortunately, all lost their
+heads. The Pump Room, which is one of the chief buildings, is a
+classical structure with a Corinthian portico bearing the motto, "Water,
+best of elements!" A band plays in the spacious saloon, which also
+contains a statue of the genius of Bath, Beau Nash, whose monument is in
+the abbey-church. Here the waters, which are the hottest in England,
+reaching a temperature of 120&deg;, tumble continually from a
+drinking-fountain into a serpentine basin beneath. There are numerous
+other baths replete with comforts for the invalid, for this is
+essentially a hospital town, and the city also contains many stately
+public and private buildings, and its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span> Victoria Park and Sydney Gardens
+are beautiful and popular resorts. The wild scenery of the neighborhood
+provides myriads of attractive drives and walks, while on top of
+Lansdowne Hill, where Beckford is buried, is his tower, one hundred and
+fifty feet high and commanding extensive views. The Bath waters, which
+are alkaline-sulphurous with a slight proportion of iron, are considered
+beneficial for palsy, rheumatism, gout, and scrofulous and cutaneous
+affections. The chief spring discharges one hundred and twenty-eight
+gallons a minute. While a hundred years ago Bath was at the height of
+its celebrity, the German spas have since diverted part of the stream of
+visitors.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>FONTHILL AND BECKFORD.</h3>
+
+<p>It was at Bath that Pitt and Sheridan lived, but its most eccentric
+resident was William Beckford, the author of <i>Vathek</i>, who came to Bath
+from Fonthill, not far from Salisbury. His father, a London alderman,
+owned Fonthill, and died in 1770, leaving his son William, aged ten,
+with $5,000,000 ready money and $500,000 annual income. He wrote
+<i>Vathek</i> in early life after extensive travels, but founded its scenes
+and characters upon places and people at Fonthill. He then began
+building Fonthill Abbey, shrouding his proceedings in the greatest
+mystery and surrounding his estate with a wall twelve feet high and
+seven miles long, guarded by <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> to keep out intruders.
+The building of the abbey was to him a romance pursued with wild
+enthusiasm. So anxious was he to get it finished that he employed relays
+of men, working day and night and throughout Sunday, keeping them
+liberally supplied with liquor. The first tower was built of wood, four
+hundred feet high, to see its effect, and it was then taken down and the
+same form put up in wood covered with cement. This fell down, and the
+third tower was built of masonry. When the idea of the abbey occurred to
+Beckford he was extending a small summer-house, but he was in such a
+hurry that he would not remove the summer-house to make a proper
+foundation for the tower, but carried it up on the walls already
+standing, the work being done in wretched style and chiefly by
+semi-drunken men. He employed five hundred men day and night at the
+work, and once the torches used set fire to the tower at the top, a
+sight that he greatly enjoyed. Beckford lived at the abbey, practically
+a hermit, for nearly twenty years, but his fortunes being impaired he
+removed to Bath in 1822. Preparatory to selling Fonthill, he opened the
+long-sealed place to public exhibition at a guinea a ticket, and sold
+seventy-two hundred tickets. Then for thirty-seven days he conducted an
+auction-sale of the treasures at Fonthill, charging a half-guinea
+admission. He ultimately sold the estate for $1,750,000. In 1825 the
+tower, which had been insecurely built, fell with a great crash, and so
+frightened the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span> new owner, who was an invalid, that, though unhurt by
+the disaster, he died soon afterwards. The estate was again sold and the
+abbey taken down, so that now only the foundations can be traced.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BRISTOL.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding about twelve miles down the beautiful valley of the Avon, we
+come to its junction with the Frome, where is located the ancient city
+and port of Bristol, the capital of the west of England. A magnificent
+suspension-bridge spans the gorge of the Avon, connecting Bristol with
+its suburb of Clifton, and it is believed that the earliest settlements
+by the Romans were on the heights of Clifton and the adjoining Brandon
+Hill. The Saxons called it Bright-stow, or the "Illustrious City;" from
+this the name changed to Bristow, as it was known in the twelfth
+century, and Bristold in the reign of Henry III. When the original
+owners concluded that it was time to come down from the hills, they
+founded the city in the valley at the junction of the two rivers. A
+market-cross was erected where the main streets joined, and Bristow
+Castle was built at the eastern extremity, where the Avon makes a
+right-angled bend. The town was surrounded with walls, and in the
+thirteenth century the course of the Frome was diverted in order to make
+a longer quay and get more room for buildings. Few traces remain of the
+old castle, but portions of the ancient walls can still be seen. In the
+fifteenth century the city-walls were described as lofty and massive and
+protected by twenty-five embattled towers, some round and some square.
+The abbey of St. Augustine was also then flourishing, having been
+founded in the twelfth century. Bristol was in the Middle Ages the
+second port of England, enjoying lucrative trade with all parts of the
+world, and in the fifteenth century a Bristol ship carrying nine hundred
+tons was looked upon with awe as a leviathan of the ocean. Sebastian
+Cabot, the great explorer, was a native of Bristol, and his expeditions
+were fitted out there, and it was Bristol that in 1838 built and sent
+out the first English steamer that crossed the Atlantic, the Great
+Western. It still enjoys a lucrative trade, and has recently opened new
+docks at the mouth of the Avon, seven miles below the city, so that this
+venerable port may be considered as renewing its prosperous career. It
+has over two hundred thousand population, and in past times had the
+honor of being represented in Parliament by Edmund Burke. When ancient
+Bristol was in its heyday, Macaulay says the streets were so narrow that
+a coach or cart was in danger of getting wedged between the buildings or
+falling into the cellars. Therefore, goods were conveyed about the town
+almost exclusively in trucks drawn by dogs, and the wealthy inhabitants
+exhibited their riches not by riding in gilded car<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span>riages, but by
+walking about the streets followed by a train of servants in gorgeous
+liveries and by keeping tables laden with good cheer. The pomp of
+christenings and funerals then far exceeded anything seen in any other
+part of England, and the hospitality of the city was widely renowned.
+This was especially the case with the banquets given by the guild of
+sugar-refiners, where the drink was a rich beverage made of Spanish wine
+and known as "Bristol milk." In 1831 the opposition of the Recorder of
+Bristol to the Reform Bill resulted in serious riots, causing a great
+fire that burned the Mansion House and a large number of other prominent
+buildings. The troops suppressed the riots after shooting several
+rioters, and four were afterwards hanged and twenty-six transported. The
+city has since enjoyed a tranquil history.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p398" id="p398"></a>
+<img src="images/p398.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="BRISTOL CATHEDRAL, FROM COLLEGE GREEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRISTOL CATHEDRAL, FROM COLLEGE GREEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;">
+<a name="p399" id="p399"></a>
+<img src="images/p399.jpg" width="426" height="500" alt="NORMAN DOORWAY, COLLEGE GREEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NORMAN DOORWAY, COLLEGE GREEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Bristol Cathedral was the convent-church of St. Augustine's Abbey, and
+was begun in the twelfth century. It formerly consisted only of the
+choir and transepts, the nave having been destroyed in the fifteenth
+century, but the nave was rebuilt in uniform style with the remainder of
+the church in 1876. The cathedral presents a mixture of architectural
+styles, and in it are the tombs of the Earls of Berkeley, who were its
+benefactors for generations. Among them was Maurice, Lord Berkeley, who
+died in 1368 from wounds received at Poictiers. The abbot, John Newland,
+or Nail-heart, was also a benefactor of the abbey, and is said to have
+erected the magnificent Norman doorway to the west of it leading to the
+college green. The most attractive portion of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span> interior of the
+cathedral is the north aisle of the choir, known as the Berkeley Chapel,
+a beautiful specimen of Early English style. The side-aisles of the
+choir are of the same height as the central aisle, and in the transepts
+are monuments to Bishop Butler, author of the <i>Analogy</i>, and to Robert
+Southey, who was a native of Bristol. This cathedral is not yet
+complete, the external ornamentation of the nave and the upper portions
+of the western towers being unfinished. Forty-seven bishops have sat
+upon the episcopal throne of Bristol. The old market-cross, which stood
+for four centuries in Bristol, was removed in the last century, but in
+1860 it was replaced by a modern one erected upon the college green. The
+church of St. Mary Redcliffe, standing upon a red sandstone rock on the
+south side of the Avon, is the finest church in Bristol, and Chatterton
+calls it the "Pride of Bristowe and Western Londe." It is an Early
+Perpendicular structure, two hundred and thirty-one feet long, with a
+steeple rising over two hundred feet, founded in the twelfth century,
+but enlarged and rebuilt in the fifteenth century by William Canynge,
+who was then described as "the richest merchant of Bristow, and chosen
+five times mayor of the said town." He and his wife Joan have their
+monuments in the church, and upon his tomb is inscribed the list of his
+ships. He entered holy orders in his declining years, and founded a
+college at Westbury, whither he retired. It has for many years been the
+custom for the mayor and corporation of Bristol to attend this church on
+Whitsunday in state, when the pavement is strewn with rushes and the
+building decorated with flowers. In the western entrance is suspended a
+bone of a large whale, which, according to tradition, is the rib of the
+dun cow that anciently supplied Bristol with her milk. Sebastian Cabot,
+in all probability, presented the city with this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span> bone after his
+discovery of Newfoundland. The chief popular interest in St. Mary
+Redcliffe, however, is its connection with Thomas Chatterton, born in a
+neighboring street in 1752, the son of a humble schoolmaster, who
+ultimately went up to London to write for the booksellers, and there
+committed suicide at the early age of seventeen. A monument to this
+precocious genius, who claimed to have recovered ancient manuscripts
+from the church-archives, stands in the churchyard. Bristol is full of
+old and quaint churches and narrow yet picturesque streets, with lofty
+gabled timber-houses.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p400" id="p400"></a>
+<img src="images/p400.jpg" width="600" height="320" alt="CLIFTON SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, BRISTOL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLIFTON SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, BRISTOL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great gorge of the Avon, five hundred feet deep, is, however, its
+most attractive possession. The suspension-bridge, erected by the
+munificence of a citizen, spans this gorge at the height of two hundred
+and eighty-seven feet, and cost nearly $500,000. It is twelve hundred
+and twenty feet long, and has a single span of seven hundred and three
+feet crossing the ravine between St. Vincent's Rocks and the Leigh
+Woods. Alongside this gorge rises Brandon Hill, which Queen Elizabeth
+sold to two citizens of Bristol, who in turn sold it to the city, with a
+proviso that the corporation should there "admit the drying of clothes
+by the townswomen, as had been accustomed;" and to this day its western
+slope is still used as a clothes-drying ground. From this the tradition
+arose&mdash;which, however, Bristol denounces as a libel&mdash;"that the queen
+gave the use of this hill to poor freemen's daughters as a dowry,
+because she took compassion on the many plain faces which she saw in one
+of her visits." Some hot springs issue out of St. Vincent's Rocks, and
+these give Clifton fame<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span> as a watering-place. A fine pump-house has been
+built there, and the waters are said to be useful in pulmonary
+complaints. From this beginning large and ornamental suburbs have been
+terraced on the rocks and hills above the springs, while on the summit
+is an observatory. There is a hermitage cave of great antiquity carved
+in the perpendicular face of the rock just above the river, and known as
+the "Giant's Hole." The entire neighborhood is full of charming scenery,
+and thus the ancient port presents varied attractions, combining
+business profit with recreation, while from the hilltops there are
+glorious views extending far down Bristol Channel to the dim hills of
+South Wales.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>WELLS.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 493px;">
+<a name="p401" id="p401"></a>
+<img src="images/p401.jpg" width="493" height="600" alt="WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE BISHOP&#39;S GARDEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE BISHOP&#39;S GARDEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p402" id="p402"></a>
+<img src="images/p402.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SWAN POOL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SWAN POOL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Proceeding southward into Somersetshire, we arrive at the cathedral city
+of Wells, which is united with Bath in the well-known bishopric of Bath
+and Wells, and is considered the most completely representative
+ecclesiastical city in England. It gets its name from its numerous
+springs, taking their rise from the wells in the Bishop's Garden, where
+they form a lake of great beauty, while bright, clear water runs through
+various streets of the town. After leaving the edge of the Bristol
+Channel the plain of the Somersetshire lowlands is bordered by rocky
+uplands, of which the most important is the elevated plateau known as
+the Mendip Hills, carved on the outside with winding valleys having
+precipitous sides. Wells nestles in a wide grassy basin at the foot of
+the Mendips, its entire history being ecclesiastical, and that not very
+eventful. It never had a castle, and no defensive works beyond the wall
+and moat enclosing the bishop's palace. It seems to have had its origin
+from the Romans, who worked lead-mines among the Mendips, but the first
+fact actually known about it is that the Saxon king Ina established here
+a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span> house of secular canons "near a spring dedicated to St. Andrew." It
+grew in importance and privileges until it became a bishopric, there
+having been fifteen bishops prior to the Norman Conquest. The double
+title of Bishop of Bath and Wells was first assumed in the days of King
+Stephen. In looking at the town from a distance two buildings rise
+conspicuously&mdash;the belfry of St. Cuthbert's Church and the group of
+triple towers crowning the cathedral. There are few aggregations of
+ecclesiastical buildings in England that surpass those of Wells, with
+the attractive gateways and antique houses of the close, the grand
+fa&ccedil;ade of the cathedral, and the episcopal palace with its ruined
+banquet-hall and surrounding moat. From the ancient market-square of the
+city, stone gateways surmounted by gray towers give access, one to the
+close and the other to the enclosure of the palace. Entering the close,
+the western front of the cathedral is seen, the most beautiful fa&ccedil;ade of
+its kind in Britain&mdash;an exquisite piece of Early English architecture,
+with Perpendicular towers and unrivalled sculptures rising tier upon
+tier, with architectural accompaniments such as are only to be found at
+Chartres or Rheims. The old Saxon cathedral lasted until Bishop
+Jocelyn's time in the thirteenth century, when he began a systematic
+rebuilding, which was not finished until the days of Bishop Beckington
+in the fifteenth century, who completed the gateways and cloisters.
+Entering the cathedral, the strange spectacle is at once seen of
+singular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span> inverted arches under the central tower, forming a cross of
+St. Andrew, to whom the building is dedicated. These arches were
+inserted subsequently to the erection of the tower to strengthen its
+supports&mdash;an ingenious contrivance not without a certain beauty. The
+choir is peculiar and beautiful, and produces a wonderful effect, due to
+its groups of arches, the Lady Chapel and retro-choir, and the rich
+splendors of the stained glass. The chapter-house, north-east of the
+northern transept, is built over a crypt, and is octagonal in plan, the
+roof supported by a central column, while the crypt beneath has an
+additional ring of columns. The cloisters are south of the cathedral,
+having three walks, with galleries above the eastern and western walks,
+the former being the library. Through the eastern wall of the cloisters
+a door leads to a private garden, in which and in the Bishop's Garden
+adjoining are the wells that name the city. The most important of these
+is St. Andrew's Well, whence a spring issues into a large pool. The
+water from the wells falls by two cascades into the surrounding moat,
+and a conduit also takes away some of it to supply the town. From the
+edge of the pool is the most striking view of the cathedral.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<a name="p403" id="p403"></a>
+<img src="images/p403.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="VIEW UNDER CENTRAL TOWER, WELLS CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEW UNDER CENTRAL TOWER, WELLS CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p404" id="p404"></a>
+<img src="images/p404.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="RUINS OF THE OLD BANQUET-HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE OLD BANQUET-HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The close is surrounded by various ancient houses, and the embattled
+wall with its bastioned towers and moat encloses about fifteen acres.
+Here is the gateway known as the "Bishop's Eye," and another called the
+"Dean's Eye," the deanery where Henry VII. was entertained in 1497, the
+archdeanery, coming down from the thirteenth century, and the beautiful
+Chain Gate in the north-east corner that connects the cathedral with the
+Vicar's Close. The latter, one of the most peculiar features of Wells,
+is a long and narrow court entered through an archway, and having
+ancient houses with modernized fittings on either hand. Bishop Ralph of
+Shrewsbury erected this close in the fourteenth century, and his
+monumental inscription in the cathedral tells us he was a great
+sportsman, who "destroyed by hunting all the wild beasts of the great
+forest of Cheddar." The moat and wall completely surround the bishop's
+palace, and its northern front overhangs the moat, where an oriel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span>
+window is pointed out as the room where Bishop Kidder and his wife were
+killed by the falling of a stack of chimneys upon their bed, blown down
+by the terrible gale of 1703 that swept away the Eddystone Lighthouse.
+It was Bishop Ralph who made the walls and moat as a defence against the
+monks of Bath, who had threatened to kill him; Bishop Jocelyn built the
+palace. Adjoining it is the great banquet-hall, of which only the
+northern and western walls remain, in ruins. It was a magnificent hall,
+destroyed from mere greed. After the alienation of the monasteries it
+fell into the hands of Sir John Gates, who tore it partly down to sell
+the materials; but happily, as the antiquarian relates, Gates was
+beheaded in 1553 for complicity in Lady Jane Grey's attempt to reach the
+throne, and the desecration was stopped. Afterwards, Parliament sold
+Wells for a nominal price to Dr. Burgess, and he renewed the spoliation,
+but, fortunately again, the Restoration came; he had to give up his
+spoils, and died in jail. Thus was the remnant of the ruin saved. It was
+in this hall that Whiting, the last abbot of Glastonbury, was condemned,
+and hanged on Tor Hill above his own abbey. The great bishops of Wells
+were the episcopal Nimrod Ralph, and Beckington, who left his mark so
+strongly on the cathedral and town. He was a weaver's son, born at the
+village of Beckington, near the town of Frome, and from it got his name.
+Hadrian de Castello, who had a romantic history, became Bishop of Wells
+in 1504. Pope Alexander VI. made him a cardinal, and afterwards tried to
+poison him with some others at a banquet; by mistake the pope himself
+drank of the poisoned wine,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> and died. The bishop afterwards entered
+into a conspiracy against Leo X., but, being detected, escaped from Rome
+in disguise and disappeared. Wolsey was Bishop of Wells at one time, but
+the most illustrious prelate who held the see after the Reformation was
+Thomas Ken. He was educated at Winchester, and afterwards became a
+prebend of the cathedral there. Charles II. paid a visit to Winchester,
+and, bringing Nell Gwynne with him, Ken was asked to allow her to occupy
+his house. He flatly refused, which had just the opposite effect upon
+the king to that which would be supposed, for he actually respected Ken
+for it, and when the see of Wells became vacant he offered it to "the
+little fellow who would not give poor Nelly a lodging." Ken attended the
+king's deathbed shortly afterwards. He was very popular in the diocese,
+and after the Sedgemoor battle he succored the fugitives, and with the
+Bishop of Ely gave spiritual consolation to the unfortunate Duke of
+Monmouth on the scaffold. Ken was one of the six bishops committed by
+James II. to the Tower, but, strangely enough, he declined to take the
+oaths of allegiance to William III., and, being deprived of preferment,
+retired to the home of his nephew, Izaak Walton. All reverence his
+sanctity and courage, and admire his morning and evening hymns, written
+in a summer-house in the Bishop's Garden.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p405" id="p405"></a>
+<img src="images/p405.jpg" width="600" height="353" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE CHEDDAR CLIFFS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE CHEDDAR CLIFFS.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;">
+<a name="p406" id="p406"></a>
+<img src="images/p406.jpg" width="376" height="600" alt="HIGH ROCKS AT CHEDDAR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HIGH ROCKS AT CHEDDAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Mendip Hills, with their picturesque gorges and winding valleys,
+were formerly a royal forest. It was here that King Edmund was hunting
+the red deer when his horse took fright and galloped towards the brow of
+the highest part of the Cheddar Cliffs. Shortly before, the king had
+quarrelled with Dun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span>stan, and expelled the holy man from his court. As
+the horse galloped with him to destruction, he vowed if preserved to
+make amends. The horse halted on the brink as if checked by an unseen
+hand, and the king immediately sought Dunstan and made him abbot of
+Glastonbury. These hills were the haunt of the fiercest wild beasts in
+England, and their caves still furnish relics of lions to a larger
+extent than any other part of the kingdom. The most remarkable deposit
+of these bones is in the Wookey Hole, on the southern edge of the
+Mendips, about two miles from Wells. At the head of a short and
+picturesque glen, beneath an ivy-festooned cliff, is a cavern whence the
+river Axe issues and flows down the glen. The cave that disclosed the
+animal bones is on the left bank of the glen, and was but recently
+discovered in making a mill-race. It also contained about three hundred
+old Roman coins, rude flint implements, and skeletons of a mammoth and
+woolly rhinoceros. The larger cave, which is hung with fine stalactites,
+can be explored for some distance. Near the entrance is a mass of rock
+known as the Witch of Wookey, who was turned into stone there by a
+timely prayer from a monk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span> who opportunely arrived from Glastonbury. The
+underground course of the Axe in and beyond this cave is traced for at
+least two miles. The Mendips contain other pretty glens and gorges, and
+from the summit of their cliffs can be seen the valley of the Axe
+winding away southward, while to the westward the scene broadens into
+the level plains that border the Bristol Channel, guarded on either side
+by the hills of Exmoor and of Wales. Little villages cluster around the
+bases of the hills, the most noted being Cheddar, famous for its cheese,
+straggling about the entrance to a gorge in which caves are numerous,
+each closed by a door, where an admission-fee is charged. Some of them
+are lighted with gas and entered upon paved paths. Lead-and zinc-mines
+are worked in the glens, and above Cheddar rises the Black Down to a
+height of eleven hundred feet, the most elevated summit of the Mendips.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>GLASTONBURY.</h3>
+
+<p>About six miles south-west of Wells is the ancient Isle of Avelon, where
+St. Patrick is said to have spent the closing years of his life, and
+where are the ruins of one of the earliest and most extensive religious
+houses in England&mdash;Glastonbury Abbey. A sixpence is charged to visit the
+ruins, which adjoin the chief street, but the remnants of the vast
+church, that was nearly six hundred feet long, are scanty. Of the
+attendant buildings there only remain the abbot's kitchen and an
+adjoining gateway, now converted into an inn. This kitchen is about
+thirty-four feet square within the walls and seventy-two feet high. The
+church ruins include some of the walls and tower-foundations, with a
+well-preserved and exceedingly rich chapel dedicated to St. Joseph. On
+the High Street is the old George Inn, which was the hostelrie for the
+pilgrims, built in the reign of Edward IV. and still used. It is fronted
+by a splendid mass of panelling, and the central gateway has a
+bay-window alongside rising the entire height of the house. The church
+of St. John the Baptist in Glastonbury has a fine tower, elevated one
+hundred and forty feet and richly adorned with canopied niches, being
+crowned by an open-work parapet and slender pinnacles. Almost the entire
+town of Glastonbury is either constructed from spoils of the abbey or
+else is made up of parts of its buildings. One of the most
+characteristic of the preserved buildings is the Tribunal, now a suite
+of lawyers' offices. Its deeply-recessed lower windows and the oriel
+above have a venerable appearance, while beyond rises the tower of St.
+John the Baptist. Behind the town is the "Weary-all Hill," from which
+arose the foundation of the monastery. Tradition tells that Joseph of
+Arimathea, toiling up the steep ascent, drove his thorn staff into the
+ground and said to his followers that they would rest there. The thorn
+budded, and still flowers, it is said, in winter. This was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span> regarded as
+an omen, and they constructed the abbey there around the chapel of St.
+Joseph. The ponderous abbot's kitchen, we are told, was built by the
+last abbot, who boasted, when Henry VIII. threatened to burn the
+monastery, that he would have a kitchen that all the wood in Mendip
+Forest could not burn down. King Arthur was buried at Glastonbury, and a
+veracious historian in the twelfth century wrote that he was present at
+the disinterment of the remains of the king and his wife. "The shin-bone
+of the king," he says, "when placed side by side with that of a tall
+man, reached three fingers above his knee, and his skull was fearfully
+wounded." The remains of King Arthur's wife, which were quite perfect,
+fell into dust upon exposure to the air.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;">
+<a name="p408" id="p408"></a>
+<img src="images/p408.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="GLASTONBURY TRIBUNAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GLASTONBURY TRIBUNAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>SEDGEMOOR BATTLEFIELD.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding westward towards the Bristol Channel, the low and marshy
+plain of Sedgemoor is reached. Much of it is reclaimed from the sea, and
+here and there the surface is broken by isolated knolls, there being
+some two hundred square miles of this region, with the range of Polden
+Hills extending through it and rising in some places three hundred feet
+high. In earlier times this was an exact reproduction of the
+Cambridgeshire fenland, and then, we are told,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The flood of the Severn Sea flowed over half the plain,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And a hundred capes, with huts and trees, above the flood remain;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis water here and water there, and the lordly Parrett's way</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hath never a trace on its pathless face, as in the former day."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is changed now, being thoroughly drained, but in the days of the
+Saxons the river Parrett was the frontier of Wessex, and one of its
+districts sheltered Alfred from the first onset of the Danish invasion
+when he retreated to the fastnesses of the Isle of Athelney. In the
+epoch of the Normans and in the Civil War there was fighting all along
+the Parrett. After the defeat at Naseby the Royalists, under Lord
+Goring, on July 10, 1645, met their foes on the bank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</a></span> of the Parrett,
+near Langport, were defeated and put to flight, losing fourteen thousand
+prisoners, and the king's troops never made a stand afterwards.
+Bridgwater is a quiet town of about twelve thousand people on the
+Parrett, a half dozen miles from the sea, and in its churchyard reposes
+Oldmixon, who was made collector of customs here as a reward for his
+abusive writings, in the course of which he virulently attacked Pope.
+The poet retorted by giving Oldmixon a prominent place in the <i>Dunciad</i>,
+where at a diving-match in the putrid waters of Fleet Ditch, which
+"rolls the large tribute of dead dogs to the Thames," the heroes are
+bidden to "prove who best can dash through thick and thin, and who the
+most in love of dirt excel." And thus the Bridgwater collector:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"In naked majesty Oldmixon stands,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And Milo-like surveys his arms and hands,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then sighing thus, 'And am I now threescore?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And why ye gods should two and two make four?'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He said, and climbed a stranded lighter's height.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shot to the black abyss, and plunged downright."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the Market Inn at Bridgwater Admiral Blake was born, who never held a
+naval command until past the age of fifty, and then triumphed over the
+Dutch and the Spaniards, disputing Van Tromp's right to hoist a broom at
+his masthead, and burned the Spanish fleet in the harbor of Santa Cruz.
+He was buried in Westminster Abbey, but Charles II. ejected his bones.
+Bridgwater is now chiefly noted for its bath bricks, made of a mixture
+of clay and sand deposited near there by the tidal currents.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p409" id="p409"></a>
+<img src="images/p409.jpg" width="550" height="333" alt="SEDGEMOOR, FROM COCK HILL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SEDGEMOOR, FROM COCK HILL.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[Pg 410]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="author"> <span class="caption"><a name="p410" id="p410"></a>WESTON ZOYLAND CHURCH.</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p410.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:310px; height:90px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:330px; height:50px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:530px; height:260px;"> </div>
+
+
+
+<p>It was from the Bridgwater church tower that the unfortunate son of
+Charles II. and Lucy Walters, who had been proclaimed "King Monmouth,"
+looked out upon the grassy plains towards the eastward before venturing
+the last contest for the kingdom. This view is over Sedgemoor, the scene
+of the last fight deserving the name of a battle that has been fought on
+British ground. It is a long tract of morass lying between the foot of
+the Polden Hills and the Parrett River, but with a fringe of somewhat
+higher ground along the latter, where are Weston Zoyland, Chedzoy, and
+Middlezoy, each a hamlet clustering around its old church, that at
+Weston Zoyland being surmounted by an attractive square tower over one
+hundred feet high. Monmouth had been proclaimed king by the mayor and
+corporation of Bridgwater June 21, 1685, but had been checked at Bath,
+and fell back again to Bridgwater, where his army was encamped on the
+Castle Field. He had been three weeks in the kingdom without marked
+success, and the royal army was closing in upon him. Four thousand
+troops under Lord Feversham marched westward, and on the Sunday evening
+of July 5th, when Monmouth looked out from the tower, had encamped upon
+Sedgemoor about three miles from Bridgwater. Monmouth had seven thousand
+men to oppose them, but his forces were mostly undisciplined and badly
+armed, some having only scythes fastened on poles. The moor was then
+partly reclaimed and intersected by trenches, and Feversham's
+headquarters was at Weston Zoyland, where the royal cavalry were
+encamped,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[Pg 411]</a></span> with the other troops at Middlezoy and Chedzoy beyond.
+Monmouth saw that their divisions were somewhat separated, and that his
+only hope was a night-attack. At midnight he started, marching his army
+by a circuitous route to the royal camp, strict silence being observed
+and not a drum beaten or a shot fired. Three ditches had to be crossed
+to reach the camp, two of which Monmouth knew of, but he was
+unfortunately ignorant of the third, called the Bussex Rhine, behind
+which the camp had been made. A fog came down over the moor; the first
+ditch was crossed successfully, but the guide missing his way caused
+some confusion before the second was reached, during which a pistol was
+discharged that aroused a sentinel, who rode off and gave the alarm. As
+the royal drums beat to arms Monmouth rapidly advanced, when he suddenly
+found himself checked by the Bussex Rhine, behind which the royal army
+was forming in line of battle in the fog. "For whom are you?" demanded a
+royal officer. "For the king," replied a voice from the rebel cavalry.
+"For what king?" was demanded. The answer was a shout for "King
+Monmouth," mingled with Cromwell's old war-cry of "God with us!"
+Immediately the royal troops replied with a terrific volley of musketry
+that sent the rebel cavalry flying in all directions. Monmouth, then
+coming up with the infantry, was startled to find the broad ditch in
+front of him. His troops halted on the edge, and for three quarters of
+an hour the opposing forces fired volleys at each other across the
+ditch. But the end was not far off. John Churchill was a subordinate in
+the royal army and formed its line of battle, thus indicating the future
+triumphs of the Duke of Marlborough. Then the royal cavalry came up, and
+in a few minutes the rebels were routed, and Monmouth, seeing all was
+lost, rode from the field. His foot-soldiers, with their scythes and
+butt-ends of muskets, made a gallant stand, fighting like old soldiers,
+though their ammunition was all gone. To conquer them the artillery were
+brought up, for which service the Bishop of Winchester loaned his
+coach-horses. The cannon were ill served, but routed the rebels, and
+then the infantry poured over the ditch and put them to flight. The king
+lost three hundred killed and wounded; the rebel loss was at least a
+thousand slain, while there was little mercy for the survivors. The sun
+rose over a field of carnage, with the king's cavalry hacking and hewing
+among their fleeing foes. Monmouth, with one or two followers, was by
+this time far away among the hills, but was afterwards captured in the
+New Forest, and ended his life on the scaffold. The Sedgemoor carnage
+went on all the morning; the fugitives poured into Bridgwater with the
+pursuers at their heels; five hundred prisoners were crowded into Weston
+Zoyland Church, and the next day a long row of gibbets appeared on the
+road between the town and the church. Bridgwater suffered under a reign
+of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[Pg 412]</a></span> terror from Colonel Kirke and his "Lambs," who put a hundred
+prisoners to death during the week following the battle, and treated the
+others with great cruelty. Then Judge Jeffreys came there to execute
+judicial tortures, and by his harsh and terrible administration of the
+law, and his horrible cruelties and injustice, gained the reputation
+that has ever since been execrated.</p></div>
+
+<p>Six miles south-east of Bridgwater is the Isle of Athelney, a peninsula
+in the marsh between the Parrett and the Tone. Here King Alfred sought
+refuge from the Danes until he could get time to mature the plans that
+ultimately drove them from his kingdom. It was while here that the
+incident of the burned cakes occurred. The king was disguised as a
+peasant, and, living in a swineherd's cottage, performed various menial
+offices. The good wife left him in charge of some cakes that were
+baking, with instructions to turn them at the proper time. His mind
+wandered in thought and he forgot his trust. The good wife returned,
+found the cakes burning, and the guest dreaming by the fireside; she
+lost her temper, and expressed a decided opinion about the lazy lout who
+was ready enough to eat, but less ready to work. In the seventeenth
+century there was found in the marshes here a jewel that Alfred had
+lost: it is of gold and enamel, bearing words signifying, "Alfred had me
+wrought." The following spring (878) he sallied forth, defeated the
+Danes in Wiltshire, and captured their king Guthram, who was afterwards
+baptized near Athelney by the name of &AElig;thelstan; they still show his
+baptismal font in Aller Church, near by.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p412" id="p412"></a>
+<img src="images/p412.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="THE ISLE OF ATHELNEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE ISLE OF ATHELNEY.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[Pg 413]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SHERBORNE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<a name="p413" id="p413"></a>
+<img src="images/p413.jpg" width="362" height="550" alt="SHERBORNE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHERBORNE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Crossing over from Somersetshire into Dorsetshire, we arrive in the
+northern part of that county at Sherborne, which was one of the earliest
+religious establishments in this part of England, having been founded by
+King Ina in the eighth century. Here was the see that was removed to Old
+Sarum in the eleventh century, and subsequently to Salisbury. After the
+removal, Sherborne became an abbey, and its remains are to be seen in
+the parish church, which still exists, of Norman architecture, and
+having a low central tower supported by massive piers. The porch is
+almost all that survives of the original structure, the remainder having
+been burned in 1436, but afterwards restored. Within this church are
+buried the Saxon kings, &AElig;thelbald and &AElig;thelbert, the brothers of King
+Alfred. Such of the domestic buildings of the abbey as have been
+preserved are now the well-known Sherborne Grammar-School. The great
+bell of the abbey was given it by Cardinal Wolsey, and weighed sixty
+thousand pounds. It bears this motto:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[Pg 414]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"By Wolsey's gift I measure time for all;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To mirth, to grief, to church, I serve to call."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was unfortunately cracked in 1858, but has been recast. The chief
+fame of Sherborne, however, is as the home of Sir Walter Raleigh, of
+whom Napier says that his "fortunes were alike remarkable for enviable
+success and pitiable reverses. Raised to eminent station through the
+favor of the greatest female sovereign of England, he perished on the
+scaffold through the dislike and cowardly policy of the meanest of her
+kings." The original castle of Sherborne was built in the reign of Henry
+I., and its owner bestowed it upon the bishopric of Old Sarum with
+certain lands, accompanying the gift with a perpetual curse "that
+whosoever should take these lands from the bishopric, or diminish them
+in great or small, should be accursed, not only in this world, but in
+the world to come, unless in his lifetime he made restitution thereof."
+Herein tradition says was the seed of Raleigh's misfortunes. King
+Stephen dispossessed the lands, and gave them to the Montagues, who met
+with grievous disasters, the estate ultimately reverting to the Church.
+In Edward VI.'s reign Sherborne was conveyed to the Duke of Somerset,
+but he was beheaded. Again they reverted to the Church, until one day
+Raleigh, journeying from Plymouth to London, the ancient historian says,
+"the castle being right in the way, he cast such an eye upon it as Ahab
+did upon Naboth's vineyard, and once, above the rest, being talking of
+it, of the commodiousness of the place, and of the great strength of the
+seat, and how easily it might be got from the bishopric, suddenly over
+and over came his horse, that his very face (which was then thought a
+very good one) ploughed up the earth where he fell. This fall was
+ominous, and no question he was apt to consider it so." But Raleigh did
+not falter, notwithstanding the omen. He begged and obtained the grant
+of the castle from Queen Elizabeth, and then married Elizabeth
+Throgmorton and returned there, building himself a new house surrounded
+by ornamental gardens and orchards. He settled the estate ultimately
+upon his son, but his enemies got King James to take it away and give it
+to a young Scotch favorite, Robert Carr, afterwards Earl of Somerset.
+Lady Raleigh upon her knees, with her children, appealed to James not to
+do this, but it was of no avail. The king only answered, "I mun have the
+land; I mun have it for Carr." She was a woman of high spirit, and while
+still on her knees she prayed God to punish those who had wrongfully
+exposed her and her children to ruin. Carr met with constant
+misfortunes, being ultimately implicated in a murder and imprisoned.
+James's son Charles, afterwards king, aided to bring Raleigh to the
+block, while the widow had the satisfaction of living long enough to be
+assured that Charles would meet the same fate. The remains of the
+castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[Pg 415]</a></span> are at the east end of Sherborne, covering about four acres on a
+rocky eminence surrounded by a ditch. The gate-tower and portions of the
+walls and buildings still exist. The house that Raleigh built is now
+called the "Castle," and has since had extensive wings added to it, with
+a fine lake between it and the old castle-ruins, surrounded by
+attractive pleasure-grounds and a park. This famous estate fell into
+possession of the Earl of Digby, and is now a home of G. D. Wingfield
+Digby, Esq., being a popular resort in the hunting-season.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE COAST OF DORSET.</h3>
+
+<p><a name="p416" id="p416"></a><span class="caption">CORFE CASTLE.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p416.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:560px; height:430px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:200px; height:100px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:150px; height:80px;"> </div>
+
+
+<p>The river Avon upon which Salisbury stands&mdash;for there are several of
+these Avon Rivers in England&mdash;flows southward between Dorsetshire and
+Hampshire, and falls into the Channel. Westward from its mouth extends a
+line of sandy cliffs, broken by occasional ravines or chines, past
+Bournemouth to Poole Harbor, a broad estuary surrounded by low hills
+which is protected by a high ridge of chalk rocks on its south-western
+side running out into the sea. The sleepy town of Poole stands on the
+shore, having dim recollections of its ships and commerce of centuries
+ago. It was a nursery for privateersmen, and many are the exploits
+recorded of them. It was also, from the intricacy of its creeks and the
+roving character of its people, a notorious place for smuggling. Poole
+is an old-fashioned, brick-built town, with a picturesque gateway yet
+remaining as a specimen of its ancient defences. In the vale of the
+Stour, which here debouches, is the ancient minster of Wimborne, founded
+in the reign of King Ina by his sister, and containing the grave of the
+Saxon king &AElig;thelred. It is not remarkable excepting for its age, and for
+having had for its dean Reginald Pole before he became a cardinal. The
+ancient and shrunken town of Wareham is also near by, having had quite a
+military history, but being almost destroyed by fire in 1762, from which
+it never recovered. It has now but three churches out of the eight it
+originally possessed, and of these only one is in regular use. But the
+great memory of this part of the coast is connected with Corfe Castle.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>The so-called Isle of Purbeck is near Poole Harbor, and the ruined
+castle of Corfe stands in a narrow gap in the hills, guarding the
+entrance to the southern part of this island, its name being derived
+from <i>ceorfan</i>, meaning "to cut," so that it refers to the cut or gap in
+the hills. Queen &AElig;lfrida in the tenth century had a hunting-lodge here.
+According to the legend, her stepson, King Edward, was hunting in the
+neighborhood and stopped at the door to ask for a drink. It was brought,
+and as he raised the cup to his lips he was stabbed in the back&mdash;it is
+said by the queen's own hand. He put spurs to his horse, galloped off,
+fell, and was dragged along the road, the battered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[Pg 416]</a></span> corpse being buried
+at Wareham. The queen had committed this murder for the benefit of her
+youngest son, and hearing him bewail his brother's death, she flew into
+a passion, and, no cudgel being at hand, belabored him so stoutly with a
+large wax candle that he could never afterwards bear the sight of one.
+The king's remains were then translated to Shaftesbury, miracles were
+wrought, and the queen, finding affairs becoming serious, founded two
+nunneries in expiation of the murder, to one of which she retired. This
+began the fame of the Isle of Purbeck, although the present Corfe Castle
+was not built till the twelfth century. It was attacked by, but baffled,
+Stephen, and King John used it as a royal residence, prison, and
+treasure-house. Here he starved to death twenty-two French knights who
+had been partisans of his nephew Arthur; and he also hanged a hermit
+named Peter who had made rash prophecies of his downfall, this being
+intended as a wholesome warning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[Pg 417]</a></span> to other unwelcome prophets. Its
+subsequent history was uneventful until the Civil War, when it was
+greatly enlarged and strengthened, occupying the upper part of the hill
+overlooking the village. Now it is ruined in every part: the
+entrance-gateway leans over and is insecure, the walls are rent, and the
+towers shattered, while the keep is but a broken shell, with one side
+entirely gone. This destruction was done in the Civil War, when Corfe
+was held for King Charles. In 1643, when the owner, Sir John Bankes, was
+absent, the castle was attacked, and his lady hastily collected the
+tenantry and some provisions and made the best defence she could. The
+besiegers melted down the roof of the village church for bullets, and
+approached the castle-walls under cover of two pent-houses called,
+respectively, "the Boar" and "the Sow." So galling a fire, however, was
+kept up by the defenders that they were driven off, and their commander
+with difficulty rallied them for another attack, being well fortified
+with "Dutch courage." This time the brave little garrison, even the
+women and children taking part, hurled down upon them hot embers,
+paving-stones, and whatever else came handiest, and again drove them off
+when the effect of the liquor was spent; then, the king's forces coming
+to the rescue, they decamped. But the fortunes of Charles waned: he was
+defeated at Naseby, Sir John Bankes died, and Corfe was the only
+stronghold left him between London and Exeter. Again it was attacked,
+and, through treachery, captured. It was afterwards dismantled and blown
+up by gunpowder, while its heroic defender, Lady Bankes, was deprived of
+her dowry as penalty for her "malignity." She received it again,
+however, and had the satisfaction of living until after the Restoration.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p418" id="p418"></a><span class="caption">1. STUDLAND CHURCH. 2. RUINS OF OLD CROSS IN THE
+CHURCHYARD.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p418.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:350px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:380px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:410px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:440px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:470px; height:30px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:490px; height:180px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:470px; height:60px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:80px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:280px; height:150px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Beyond the range of chalk-cliffs that here cross Dorsetshire the coast
+runs several miles southward from Poole Harbor, the promontory of the
+Foreland protruding into the sea and dividing the shore into two bays.
+The northern one is Studland Bay, alongside which is the singular rock
+of the Agglestone. The devil, we are told, was sitting one day upon one
+of the Needles off the neighboring coast of the Isle of Wight, looking
+about him to see what the world was doing, when he espied the towers of
+Corfe Castle just rising towards completion; he seized a huge rock and
+hurled it at the castle, but it fell short, and remains to this day upon
+the moor. Nestling under the slopes of this moor, in a ravine leading
+down to the shore, is Studland village, with its little Norman church
+embosomed in foliage and surrounded by ancient gravestones and memorial
+crosses. South of the Foreland, and protected by the chalk range from
+the northern blasts, is Swanage Bay, bordered by its little town, which
+in past times has been variously called Swanwich, Sandwich, and Swanage.
+It is a quiet watering-place at the east end of Purbeck Isle, landlocked
+from every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[Pg 418]</a></span> rough wind, a pleasant spot for summer sea-bathing, with
+huge elms growing on its beach and garden-flowers basking in the
+sunshine. The Purbeck marble, which was so extensively used for
+church-building a few centuries ago, and which may be seen in
+Westminster Abbey, Canterbury, Salisbury, Ely, and other cathedrals, was
+quarried here, though other quarries of it exist in Britain. It is an
+aggregate of freshwater shells, which polishes handsomely, but is liable
+to crumble, and has in later years been generally superseded by other
+building-stone. The coast southward is lined with quarries, and the
+lofty promontory of St. Aldhelm's Head projects into the sea, a
+conspicuous headland seen from afar. It was named for the first Bishop
+of Sherborne, and its summit rises nearly five hundred feet, being
+crowned by an ancient chapel, where in former days a priest trimmed the
+beacon-light and prayed for the mariners' safety. This cliff exhibits
+sections of Portland stone, and the view is unusually fine, the entire
+coast displaying vast walls of cream-colored limestone. These rocks
+extend westward past Encombe, where Chancellor Eldon closed his life,
+and the Vale of Kimmeridge, where they dig a dark blue clay, and
+Worbarrow Bay, with its amphitheatre of crags composed of Portland stone
+and breached here and there to form the gateways into interior coves.
+Here are the Barndoor Cove, entered through a natural archway; the
+Man-of-War Cove, its guardian rock representing a vessel; and Lulworth
+Cove, with its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[Pg 419]</a></span> castle-ruins, most of which have been worked into the
+modern structure near by where the exiled French king, Charles X., once
+lived.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p419" id="p419"></a>
+<img src="images/p419.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="ST. ALDHELM&#39;S HEAD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. ALDHELM&#39;S HEAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>WEYMOUTH AND PORTLAND.</h3>
+
+<p>The coast next sweeps around to the southward, forming the broad expanse
+of Weymouth Bay, with the precipitous headland of the White Nore on the
+one hand, and the crags of Portland Isle spreading on the other far out
+to sea, with the breakwater extending to the northward enclosing the bay
+and making a harbor under the lee of which vast fleets can anchor in
+safety. Weymouth is a popular watering-place and the point of departure
+for steamers for the Channel Islands, and it was George III.'s favorite
+resort. He had a house there, and on the cliffs behind the town an
+ingenious soldier, by cutting away the turf and exposing the white chalk
+beneath, has made a gigantic figure of the king on horseback, of clever
+execution and said to be a good likeness. Weymouth has a steamboat-pier
+and an attractive esplanade, and on the cliffs west of the town and
+overlooking the sea are the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle, erected for
+coast-defence by Henry VIII. They are of little interest, however, and
+south of them is the estuary of the Fleet, which divides Portland Isle
+from the mainland, but these are linked together by the Chesil Bank, a
+huge mound of pebbles forming a natural breakwater. At the lower end it
+is an embankment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</a></span> forty feet high, composed of large pebbles, some
+reaching a foot in diameter. As it stretches northward it decreases
+gradually in height and in the size of its pebbles, till it becomes a
+low shingly beach. To this great natural embankment the value of
+Portland Harbor is chiefly due, and many are the theories to account for
+its formation. Near the estuary of the Fleet is Abbotsbury, where are
+the ruins of an ancient church and the Earl of Ilchester's famous
+swannery, where he has twelve hundred swans.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p420" id="p420"></a>
+<img src="images/p420.jpg" width="600" height="416" alt="PORTLAND ISLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTLAND ISLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Isle of Portland, thus strangely linked to the mainland, is an
+elevated limestone plateau guarded on all sides by steep cliffs and
+about nine miles in circumference. Not far from the end of the Chesil
+Bank is Portland Castle, another coast-defence erected by Henry VIII.
+Near by, on the western slope, is the village of Chesilton. The highest
+part of the isle is Verne Hill, four hundred and ninety-five feet high,
+where there is a strong fort with casemated barracks that can
+accommodate three thousand men. Other works also defend the island,
+which is regarded of great strategic importance, and in the neighborhood
+are the famous quarries whence the Portland stone has been excavated for
+two centuries. The most esteemed is the hard, pale, cream-colored
+oolite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[Pg 421]</a></span> which was introduced to the notice of London by Inigo Jones,
+and has been popular ever since. With it have been built St. Paul's
+Cathedral, Somerset House, the towers of Westminster Abbey, and
+Whitehall, with other London buildings. Here also was quarried the stone
+for the great breakwater, of which the late Prince Consort deposited the
+first stone in 1849, and the Prince of Wales the last one in 1872,
+making the largest artificial harbor in the world. The first portion of
+this breakwater runs east from the shore eighteen hundred feet. There is
+an opening four hundred feet wide, and the outer breakwater thence
+extends north-east six thousand feet, terminated by a strong circular
+fort guarding the harbor entrance. It cost over $5,000,000, and about
+one thousand convicts were employed in its construction, which took
+nearly six million tons of stone. The materials, quarried and laden on
+cars by the convicts, were sent down an inclined plane and out to the
+appointed place, where they were emptied into the sea. The prison of the
+convicts is on the east side of the island adjoining the quarries, and
+is almost a town of itself, having twenty-five hundred inmates. The
+prison-garb is blue and white stripes in summer, and a brownish-gray
+jacket and oilskin cap in winter. The convicts have built their own
+chapels and schools, and on the Cove of Church Hope near by are the
+ruins of Bow and Arrow Castle, constructed by William Rufus on a cliff
+overhanging the sea, and also a modern building known as Pennsylvania
+Castle, built by William Penn's grandson in a sheltered nook. The views
+here are of great beauty, while at the southern end of the promontory is
+the castellated mass of rocks projecting far into the sea, and
+supporting two lighthouses, known as the Portland Bill. Below is the
+dangerous surf called the Race of Portland, where the tide flows with
+unusual swiftness, and in the bordering cliffs are many romantic caves
+where the restless waves make a constant plashing.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p422" id="p422"></a>
+<img src="images/p422.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="CORBI&Egrave;RE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CORBI&Egrave;RE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the harbor of Portland we will make a steamer-excursion almost
+across the English Channel, going about one hundred and fifteen miles to
+the Channel Islands, off the north-western coast of France and within a
+few miles of the shores of Normandy and Brittany. They are Jersey,
+Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark, standing in a picturesque situation, with
+a mild climate and fertile soil, and devoted mainly to dairying and to
+fishing. These islands were known to the Romans, and their strategic
+position is so valuable that England, while getting but $100,000 revenue
+from them, has expended two or three millions annually in maintaining
+their fortifications. It was upon the dangerous cluster of rocks west of
+Alderney, and known as the Caskets, that Henry I.'s only son, Prince<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[Pg 422]</a></span>
+William, perished in the twelfth century, and here the man-of-war
+Victory was lost with eleven hundred men in 1744. Jersey is the most
+remarkable of these islands for its castles and forts, and has seen many
+fierce attacks. Both Henry VII. and Charles II. when in exile found
+refuge in Jersey. In approaching this island the fantastic outline of
+the Corbi&egrave;re Promontory on the western side is striking. When first seen
+through the morning haze it resembles a huge elephant supporting an
+embattled tower, but the apparition vanishes on closer approach. A
+lighthouse crowns the rock, and the bay of St. Aubin spreads a grand
+crescent of smiling shores, in the centre of which is Elizabeth Castle,
+standing on a lofty insulated rock whose jagged pinnacles are reared in
+grotesque array around the battlements. Within the bay is a safe harbor,
+with the villages of St. Helier and St. Aubin on the shores. Here is the
+hermitage once occupied by Jersey's patron saint Elericus, and an abbey
+dedicated to him anciently occupied the site of the castle. The
+impregnable works of the great Regent Fort are upon a precipitous hill
+commanding the harbor and castle. Upon the eastern side of the island is
+another huge fortress, called the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[Pg 423]</a></span> castle of Mont Orgueil, upon a lofty
+conical rock forming the northern headland of Grouville Bay. The apex of
+the mountain shoots up in the centre of the fortifications as high as
+the flagstaff which is planted upon them. Here lived Charles II. when in
+exile, and this is the most interesting part of Jersey, historically. A
+part of the fortifications is said to date from C&aelig;sar's incursion into
+Gaul, and the Romans in honor of their leader called the island C&aelig;sarea,
+describing it at that time as a stronghold of the Druids, of whose
+worship many monuments remain. It was first attached to the British
+Crown at the Norman Conquest, and, though the French in the many wars
+since then have sent frequent expeditions against the island, they have
+never been able to hold it. The Channel Islands altogether cover about
+seventy-five square miles. Alderney, which is within seven miles of the
+French coast, now has an extensive harbor of refuge. Guernsey contains
+the remains of two Norman castles&mdash;one almost entirely gone, and the
+other called Ivy Castle, from its ruins being mantled with shrubbery.
+Its great defensive work, Fort George, built in the last century, stands
+in a commanding position and is of enormous strength. Upon a rocky islet
+off St. Peter's Port is the chief defensive fort of that harbor, located
+about a mile to seaward&mdash;Castle Cornet, a work of venerable antiquity,
+parts of which were built by the Romans. In 1672, Viscount Christopher
+Hatton was governor of Guernsey, and was blown up with his family in
+Castle Cornet, the powder-magazine being struck by lightning at
+midnight. He was in bed, was blown out of the window, and lay for some
+time on the ramparts unhurt. Most of the family and attendants perished,
+but his infant daughter Anne was found next day alive, and sleeping in
+her cradle under a beam in the ruins, uninjured by the explosion. She
+lived to marry the Earl of Winchelsea and have thirty children, of whom
+thirteen survived her.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
+<a name="p423" id="p423"></a>
+<img src="images/p423.jpg" width="550" height="403" alt="VIEW FROM THE DEVIL&#39;S HOLE, NEAR CORBI&Egrave;RE, JERSEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEW FROM THE DEVIL&#39;S HOLE, NEAR CORBI&Egrave;RE, JERSEY.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[Pg 424]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE SOUTHERN COAST OF DEVON.</h3>
+
+<p>Westward of Portland Isle, on the southern coast near Abbotsbury, are
+the ruins of a monastery built by Canute, and St. Catharine's Chapel,
+perched on a steep hill overlooking the sea, while in the neighborhood
+is the Earl of Ilchester's castle, surrounded by attractive gardens.
+Beyond this the little river Lym flows into the sea from among grand yet
+broken crags mantled with woods, and in a deep valley at the foot of the
+hills is the romantic town of Lyme Regis, with a pleasant beach and good
+bathing, the force of the waves being broken by a pier called the Cobb,
+frequently washed away and as often restored, sometimes at great cost.
+This is a semicircular breakwater eleven hundred and seventy-nine feet
+long, protecting the harbor. There are grand cliffs around this little
+harbor, the Golden Cap and the Rhodehorn rearing their heads on high,
+the summit of the latter being cut by a passage called the Devil's
+Bellows. It was near Lyme Regis that on Christmas, 1839, the Dowlands
+landslip took place, an area of forty acres sliding down the cliff to a
+lower level, roughly removing two cottages and an orchard in the
+descent. Five miles farther west the pretty river Axe, which flows down
+from the Mendips, enters the sea, and on an eminence overlooking the
+stream is the town of Axminster, formerly a Saxon stronghold, and
+afterwards famous for the carpet manufacture, which some time ago was
+removed to Wilton. Its minster was founded in the days of &AElig;thelstan, but
+the remains are Norman work. Still farther west the little river Sid
+flows down past Sidbury and Sidford, and enters the sea through a valley
+in which nestles the charming watering-place of Sidmouth, celebrated for
+its pebbles found among the green sand. Salcombe Hill and High Peak,
+towering five hundred feet, guard the valley-entrance on either hand,
+and in the church of St. Nicholas is a memorial window erected by Queen
+Victoria in memory of her father, the Duke of Kent, who died here in
+1820. The esplanade in front of the town is protected by a sea-wall
+seventeen hundred feet long. Near here, at Hayes Barton, now an
+Elizabethan farm-house, Sir Walter Raleigh was born, the room in which
+he first saw the light being still shown. Beyond this, to the westward,
+the river Exe falls into the sea through a broad estuary at Exmouth,
+also a favorite watering-place, over which the lofty Haldon Hills keep
+guard at a height of eight hundred feet, the Beacon Walks being cut on
+their sloping face and tastefully planted with trees, while a broad
+esplanade protected by a sea-wall fronts the town. The shores all along
+are dotted with villas, and this coast is a popular resort, the villages
+gradually expanding into towns as their populations increase.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[Pg 425]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>EXETER.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p425" id="p425"></a>
+<img src="images/p425.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="EXETER CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EXETER CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;">
+<a name="p426-1" id="p426-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p426-1.jpg" width="480" height="600" alt="RUINS OF ROUGEMONT CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF ROUGEMONT CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 391px;">
+<a name="p426-2" id="p426-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p426-2.jpg" width="391" height="500" alt="OLD HOUSES IN THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES IN THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About eleven miles up the river Exe, before it has broadened out into
+the estuary, but where it flows through a well-marked valley and washes
+the bases of the cliffs, stands Exeter, a city set upon a hill. Here was
+an ancient "dun," or British hill-fort, succeeded by a Roman, and then
+by a Norman, castle, with the town descending upon the slope towards the
+river and spreading into the suburb of St. Thomas on the other side. The
+growing city now covers several neighboring hills and tributary valleys,
+one of the flourishing new suburbs being named Pennsylvania. Upon the
+ridge, where was located the old hill-fort, there still remain in a
+grove of trees some scanty ruins of the Norman castle, while well up the
+slope of the hill rise the bold and massive towers of Exeter Cathedral.
+Unique among English municipalities, this is essentially a hill-city,
+the ancient British name of Caerwise having been Latinized by the Romans
+into Isca, and then changed to Exanceaster, which was afterwards
+shortened into the modern Exeter. Nobody knows when it was founded: the
+Romans almost at the beginning of the Christian era found a flourishing
+British city alongside the Exe, and it is claimed to have been "a walled
+city before the incarnation of Christ." Isca makes its appearance in the
+Roman records without giving the date of its capture, while it is also
+uncertain when the Saxons superseded the Romans and developed its name
+into Exanceaster. They enclosed its hill of Rougemont, however, with a
+wall of masonry, and encircled the city with ramparts built of square
+stones and strengthened by towers. Here the Saxon king &AElig;thelstan held a
+meeting of the Witan of the whole realm and proclaimed his laws, and in
+the first year of the eleventh century the Danes sailed up to the town
+and attacked it, being, however, beaten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[Pg 426]</a></span> off after a desperate struggle.
+Two years later they made another attack, captured and despoiled it; but
+it rose from its ruins, and the townsmen afterwards defied the Norman as
+they had the Dane. William attacked and breached the walls, the city
+surrendered, and then he built Rougemont Castle, whose venerable ruins
+remain, to curb the stout-hearted city. It was repeatedly besieged&mdash;in
+the days of Stephen, Henry VII., and Henry VIII., the last siege during
+the quarrels preceding the Reformation lasting thirty four days, the
+defenders being reduced to eating horse-flesh. In the Civil War the
+Royalists captured it from the Parliamentarians, who held it, and it
+remained in the king's possession until after the defeat at Naseby, when
+Cromwell recaptured it. Charles II. was proclaimed at Exeter with
+special rejoicings. When William, Prince of Orange, first landed in
+England, he came to the valley of the Teign, near Newton Abbot, where
+the block of granite is still preserved from which his proclamation was
+read to the people. Three days later he entered Exeter, escorted by a
+great crowd of the townspeople. He went in military state to the
+cathedral and mounted the bishop's throne, with its lofty spire-like
+canopy, rich with the carving of the fifteenth century, while the choir
+sang<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[Pg 427]</a></span> the Te Deum, after which Bishop Burnet read his proclamation. He
+remained several days in Exeter, while events ripened elsewhere for his
+reception. Here many Englishmen of rank and influence joined him, and
+his quarters began to display the appearance of a court. The daily show
+of rich liveries and of coaches drawn by six horses among the old houses
+in the cathedral close, with their protruding bow-windows and balconies,
+gave the usually quiet place a palatial appearance, the king's
+audience-chamber being in the deanery. He remained here two weeks, and
+then left for London, the entire kingdom having risen in his favor and
+James having deserted the capital for Salisbury. This ended Exeter's
+stirring history. It afterwards grew in fame as a manufactory of
+woollens, but this has declined, and the chief industries now consist in
+the making of gloves and agricultural implements.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/p427.jpg" width="600" height="414" alt="EXETER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH-WEST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EXETER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p427" id="p427"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">1. STUDLAND CHURCH. 2. RUINS OF OLD CROSS IN THE
+CHURCHYARD.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p427.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:260px; height:100px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:320px;"> </div>
+
+
+
+
+<p>Exeter Cathedral is the most conspicuous feature in the view upon
+approaching the city, rising well above the surrounding houses, its two
+massive gray towers giving it something of the appearance of a fortress.
+This feature makes it unique among English cathedrals, especially as the
+towers form its transepts. The close is contracted, and around it are
+business edifices instead of ecclesiastical buildings. The exterior is
+plain and simple in outline, excepting the western front, which is a
+very rich example of fourteenth-century Gothic. A church is said to have
+been standing on its site and dedicated to the Benedictines as early as
+the seventh century, and it lasted until after the Norman Conquest. The
+Normans built a new church in the twelfth century, which con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[Pg 428]</a></span>tained the
+present towers, but the remainder of the structure was afterwards
+transformed as we now see it. The rich western fa&ccedil;ade consists of three
+stages, receding one behind the other; the lower is the porch,
+subdivided into three enriched arcades containing figures and pierced by
+three doorways. The second stage is formed above this by the ends of the
+nave and side-aisles, being terminated with a battlement flanked by
+small pinnacles about halfway up the nave gable. A fine window pierces
+this stage, and above it the remainder of the gable forms the third
+stage, also pierced by a window which opens over the battlement. The
+figures in the lower stage represent the kings of England, apostles, and
+saints. The interior of the nave discloses stone vaulting and Decorated
+architecture, with large clerestory windows, but a small triforium. The
+bosses of the roof, which presents an unbroken line, are seventy feet
+above the floor. One of the bays on the north side of the triforium is a
+beautiful minstrels' gallery, communicating with a chamber above the
+porch. The inner walls of the towers have been cut away, completely
+adapting them for transepts, the towers being supported on great pointed
+arches. In the large east window the stained glass commemorates St.
+Sidwell, a lady murdered in the eighth century at a well near Exeter by
+a blow from a scythe at the instigation of her stepmother, who coveted
+her property. The cathedral is rich in monumental relics, and it has
+recently been thoroughly restored. Little remains of the ancient
+convent-buildings beyond the chapter-house, which adjoins the south
+transept.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 269px;">
+<a name="p428" id="p428"></a>
+<img src="images/p428.jpg" width="269" height="500" alt="THE THRONE, EXETER CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE THRONE, EXETER CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The older parts of Exeter present a quaint and picturesque appearance,
+especially along the High Street, where is located the old Guild Hall, a
+pon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[Pg 429]</a></span>derous stone building, with a curious front projecting over the
+footway and supported by columns; it was built in the sixteenth century.
+Sir Thomas Bodley, who founded the Bodleian Library of Oxford, was born
+in Exeter, and also Richard Hooker the theologian. Among its famous
+bishops was Trelawney (then the Bishop of Bristol), who was one of the
+seven bishops committed by King James to the Tower, and whose memory
+still lives in the West-Country refrain, the singing of which had so
+much to do with raising the English revolt in favor of the Prince of
+Orange:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"And shall Trelawney die?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And shall Trelawney die?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There's twenty thousand Cornish lads</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Will know the reason why."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p429-1" id="p429-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p429-1.jpg" width="450" height="330" alt="THE MINSTRELS&#39; GALLERY, EXETER CATHEDRAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MINSTRELS&#39; GALLERY, EXETER CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 464px;">
+<a name="p429-2" id="p429-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p429-2.jpg" width="464" height="600" alt="THE GUILD HALL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GUILD HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>TEIGNMOUTH AND TORBAY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p430" id="p430"></a>
+<img src="images/p430.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="BABBICOMBE BAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BABBICOMBE BAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 436px;">
+<a name="p431" id="p431"></a>
+<img src="images/p431.jpg" width="436" height="600" alt="ANSTIS COVE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANSTIS COVE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the estuary of the Exe the Devonshire coast trends almost southward
+towards the mouth of the Dart, being everywhere bordered by picturesque
+cliffs. Nestling in a gap among the crags, under the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[Pg 430]</a></span> protecting shelter
+of the headlands, is the little watering-place of Dawlish, fronted by
+villas and flower-gardens, and having to the southward strange pinnacles
+of red rock rising from the edge of the sea, two of them forming a
+fanciful resemblance to the human figure, being named the Parson and the
+Clerk. A storm recently knocked off a considerable part of the Parson's
+head. Upon their sides, piercing through tunnel after tunnel, runs the
+railway almost over the water's edge. Soon the cliffs are breached with
+a wider opening, and here flows out the river Teign, where is the larger
+watering-place of Teignmouth, which has frequently suffered from Danish
+and French invasions, but is now best known by having the longest wooden
+bridge in England spanning the river-estuary and extending seventeen
+hundred feet, with a swing-draw to permit vessels to pass. The valley is
+broad, with picturesque villas on either bank. Below Teignmouth the
+shores project into the sea at the bold promontory of Hope's Nose, which
+has Torbay on one side and Babbicombe Bay on the other. Here, around the
+shores of the bay on the southern side of the projecting cape, is the
+renowned watering-place of Torquay, which has grown enormously since it
+has become such a fashionable resort in recent years. Its beautiful
+scenery and sheltered position have made it a favorite home for
+invalids. Its name is derived from the neighboring hill of Mohun's Tor,
+where there are ruins of an abbey. To the north of the headland is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[Pg 431]</a></span>
+fine sweep of Babbicombe Bay, with a border of smooth sand beach backed
+by steep cliffs, above which is the plateau where most of its villas are
+built. To the south of the headland Torquay spreads around a fine park,
+with highlands protecting it on almost all sides, while farther to the
+southward the limestone cliffs are bold and lofty, one of them
+presenting the singular feature of a natural arch called London Bridge,
+where the sea has pierced the extremity of a headland. Upon the eastern
+face of the promontory of Hope's Nose, and just below Babbicombe Bay,
+another pretty cove has been hollowed out by the action of the waves,
+its sides being densely clothed with foliage, while a pebbly beach
+fringes the shore. This is Anstis Cove, its northern border guarded by
+limestone cliffs that have been broken at their outer verge into pointed
+reefs. Compton Castle, about two miles from Torbay, is a specimen,
+though in ruins, of the ancient fortified mansion of the reign of Edward
+III. It is of massive construction, built of the native limestone, and
+part of it is now used as a farm-house. Following around the
+deeply-recessed curve of Torbay, its southern boundary is found to be
+the bold promontory of Berry Head, and here on the northern side is the
+old fishing-port of Brixham, having Church Brixham built up on the
+cliffs and Brixham Quay down on the beach.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[Pg 432]</a></span> It was here that the Prince
+of Orange landed in 1688, and a monument in the market-place
+commemorates the event, the identical block of stone on which he first
+stepped being preserved.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE DART.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p432" id="p432"></a>
+<img src="images/p432.jpg" width="650" height="265" alt="TOTNES, FROM THE RIVER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TOTNES, FROM THE RIVER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Southward of this promontory is the estuary of the Dart, a river which,
+like nearly all the streams of Devonshire, rises in that great "mother
+of rivers," Dartmoor, whence come the Tawe and the Teign, of which we
+have already spoken, and also the Torridge, the Yealm, the Erme, the
+Plym, and the Avon (still another of them). This celebrated moor covers
+an area of about one hundred and thirty thousand acres, stretching
+thirty-three miles in length and twenty-two miles in breadth, and its
+elevation averages seventeen hundred feet, though some of its tors, the
+enormous rocks of granite crowning its hills, rise considerably higher,
+the loftiest of these, the Yes Tor, near Okehampton, being two thousand
+and fifty feet high. The moor is composed of vast stretches of bog and
+stunted heather, with plenty of places where peat is cut, and having its
+streams filled with trout. Legend tells us that all manner of hill-and
+water-spirits frequent this desolate yet attractive region, and that in
+Cranmore Pool and its surrounding bogs, whence the Dart takes its rise,
+there dwelt the "pixies" and the "kelpies." The head-fountains of both
+the Dart and the Plym are surrounded with romance, as the cities at
+their mouths are famous in English history, and Spenser, in the <i>Faerie
+Queene</i>, announces that both Dart and Plym were present at the great
+feast of the rivers which celebrated the wedding of the Thames and
+Medway. The courses of the Dartmoor rivers are short, but with rapid
+changes. In the moorland they run through moss and over granite; then
+among woods and cultivated fields, till, with constantly broadening
+stream, the river joins the estuary or tidal inlet, and thus finds its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[Pg 433]</a></span>
+vent in the ocean. Strangely enough, with these short streams there are
+high points on the Dartmoor tors from which both source and mouth of a
+river are visible at the same time. The Dart, with steadily-increasing
+flow, thus runs out of the moorland, and not far from its edge passes
+the antique town of Totnes, where the remains of an ivy-mantled wall
+upon the hill is all that is left of Judhael's famous castle, which
+dates from the Norman Conquest. The surrounding country is remarkably
+picturesque, and is noted for its agricultural wealth. About two miles
+to the eastward is the romantic ruin of Berry Pomeroy Castle, founded
+upon a rock which rises almost perpendicularly from a narrow valley,
+through which a winding brook bubbles. It is overhung with foliage and
+shrubbery and mantled with moss and ivy, so that it is most attractive.
+The great gate, the southern walls, part of a quadrangle, and a few
+turrets are all that remain of the castle, which suffered severely in
+the Civil War. Tradition states that the adjacent village was destroyed
+by lightning. This castle also dates from the Norman Conquest, and
+passed from its original possessors, the Pomeroys, to Protector
+Somerset, the Duke of Somerset being the present owner.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p433" id="p433"></a>
+<img src="images/p433.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="BERRY POMEROY CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BERRY POMEROY CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p434-1" id="p434-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p434-1.jpg" width="600" height="318" alt="A BEND OF THE DART." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BEND OF THE DART.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p434-2" id="p434-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p434-2.jpg" width="450" height="386" alt="DARTMOUTH CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DARTMOUTH CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><br />The Dart, which is a rocky stream above Totnes and a favorite resort of
+the fisherman and sketcher, becomes navigable below the town, and has a
+soft, peculiar beauty of its own that has made it often compared to the
+Rhine; but there is little comparison between them: the Dart has no
+precipitous cliffs or vine-clad hills, and no castle excepting at its
+mouth. From Totnes to Dartmouth is about twelve miles, through
+exquisitely beautiful scenery, especially where the river passes the
+woods of Sharpham, the current narrowing to about one hundred and fifty
+feet, and flowing through an amphitheatre of overarching trees rising in
+masses of foliage to the height of several hundred feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[Pg 434]</a></span> The stream
+makes various sharp bends&mdash;a paradise for the artist&mdash;and finally it
+broadens out into an estuary like an inland lake, with a view over the
+intervening neck of land to Torbay, and beyond the coast-line at Exmouth
+and towards Portland. Thus we come to Dartmouth, the old houses built
+tier above tier on a steep hill running up from the harbor, while at the
+extreme point of the promontory, guarding the entrance to the estuary,
+is the little church of St. Petrox, with its armorial gallery and ruins
+of an ancient manor house, and the castle, consisting of a square and a
+round tower, coming down from Henry VII.'s reign, when it was built for
+coast-defence. On the opposite point of the harbor-entrance are the
+foundations of another castle, evidently built about the same time.
+Dartmouth in early times was a port of great importance, and Edward III.
+first gave it a charter under the name of Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardness.
+Its merchants were then numerous and wealthy, and C&oelig;ur de Leon's
+crusaders assembled their fleet in the harbor in 1190. The French
+destroyed both it and Plymouth in 1377, and in 1403 the two towns,
+combining, ravaged the French coasts and burned forty ships. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">[Pg 435]</a></span> French
+retaliated the next year, but Dartmouth was too much for them, killing
+Du Chastel, the commander, and defeating his expedition. It suffered
+severely in the Civil War, and there are still traces of the
+land-fastenings of the iron chain stretched across the harbor to keep
+out the French.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE PLYM.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;">
+<a name="p435" id="p435"></a>
+<img src="images/p435.jpg" width="374" height="600" alt="THE DEWERSTONE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DEWERSTONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;">
+<a name="p437" id="p437"></a>
+<img src="images/p437.jpg" width="254" height="500" alt="OLD DOORWAY, AUGUSTINIAN PRIORY. PLYMPTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD DOORWAY, AUGUSTINIAN PRIORY. PLYMPTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p436" id="p436"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p436.jpg" width="450" height="442" alt="IN BICKLEIGH VALE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN BICKLEIGH VALE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Westward of the valley of the Dart is the valley of the Plym, also
+flowing out of Dartmoor. Two streams known as the Cad and the Mew join
+to form this river, and though they are of about equal importance, the
+source of the Cad is generally regarded as the true Plym head, while a
+crossing upon it is known as the Plym Steps. Both are rocky, dashing
+mountain-streams, and such are also the characteristics of the Plym
+after the junction until it enters its estuary. The Plym Head is within
+the royal forest of Dartmoor, about twelve hundred feet above the sea,
+and in the wild and lonely moorland. The stream flows by the flat summit
+of Sheeps Tor, one of the chief peaks on the southern border of the
+moor. Here in a hollow formed by overhanging rocks one of the Royalist
+Elfords, whose house was under the tor, sought refuge, and amused his
+solitude by painting the walls of the cavern, which is known as the
+"Pixies' House," and is regarded by the neighbors as a dangerous place
+for children, to whom these little fairies sometimes take a fancy. It is
+not safe, they say, to go near it without dropping a pin as an offering
+between the chinks of the rock&mdash;not a very costly way of buying
+immunity. In Sheeps Tor churchyard in the valley below lies Sir James
+Brooke, Rajah of Sarawak, who died near there in 1868. As the streams
+course down the hillside they disclose frequent traces of the rude stone
+relics left there by an ancient people, the chief being the settlement
+at Trowlesworthy, where there is a circular hut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[Pg 436]</a></span> enclosure about four
+hundred feet in diameter, with stone avenues leading to it and the
+entrances defended by portions of walls. The stones are nowhere large,
+however, rarely exceeding five feet high. Then we come to Shaugh, where
+the rivers struggle through rocky ravines and finally join their waters.
+The little Shaugh church crowns the granite rocks on one side, while on
+the other is the towering crag of the Dewerstone. This ivy-clad rock,
+which lifts its furrowed and wrinkled battlements far above the Plym,
+was the "Rock of Tiw," that powerful god of the Saxons from whom comes
+the name of Tuesday. Once, we are told, in the deep snow traces of a
+human foot and a cloven hoof were found ascending to the highest point
+of the rock, which His Satanic Majesty seems to have claimed for his own
+domain. From this lofty outpost of the moor, if he stayed there, our
+all-time enemy certainly had a wide lookout. On the one hand is a grand
+solitude, and on the other a hilly country stretches to the seaboard,
+with the river-valley winding through woods and fields, and Plymouth
+Sound and its breakwater in the distance. Here, below the junction of
+the two streams, are the scant remains of the old house of Grenofen,
+whose inmates lived in great state, and were the Slannings who so
+ardently supported King Charles. A mossy barn with massive gables is the
+prominent feature of the ruins. The river runs down through the very
+beautiful vale of Bickleigh, and then under Plym Bridge, where it
+becomes broader and more tranquil as it approaches the head of the
+estuary. This region belonged to the priory of Plympton, and its
+Augustinian owners raised at the end of the bridge a small chapel where
+the traveller might pause for prayer before venturing into the solitudes
+beyond. The remains of this structure, however, are now slight. At
+Plympton St. Mary was the priory, and at Plympton Earl the castle of the
+Earls of Devon, a brook flowing between them to the river. Both stand
+near the head of the estuary, and are in ruins. The priory was the
+wealthiest monastic house in Devon, but the castle was only important as
+the head-quarters of Plymouth's Royalist besiegers in the Civil War. The
+priory was the nurse of the noted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[Pg 437]</a></span> port of Plymouth, and its earlier
+beginnings can be traced to the fostering care of the Augustinians, who
+developed the fishing-town that subsequently became the powerful
+seaport. Plympton, the old rhyme tells us, was "a borough-town" when
+Plymouth was little else than a "a furzy down." The priory was founded
+in the twelfth century, and was long patronized by the neighboring Earls
+of Devon. The Augustinians, legend says, were the first to cultivate the
+apple in Devonshire, and the ruins still disclose the moss-grown
+"apple-garth." Little remains of the monastery beyond the old refectory
+doorway and walls. The town of Plympton Maurice is in the valley near
+by, famous as the birthplace of Sir Joshua Reynolds in 1723, but the
+house has been swept away, though the grammar-school in which his father
+taught remains. Reynolds is said to have made good use of the
+recollections of the grand scenery around his birthplace in furnishing
+landscape backgrounds for his pictures. The town afterwards elected him
+mayor, though he rarely visited his birthplace, but in lieu sent the
+corporation his portrait painted by himself. Here begins the broad
+estuary known as the Laira, at the mouth of which stands Plymouth, the
+town covering the land between the Laira and the Hamoaze, the estuary of
+the Tamar, with its adjoining suburbs of Stonehouse and Devonport. Here
+are now a population of two hundred thousand, while the station is of
+vast importance as a government dockyard and barracks, with a chain of
+strong protecting fortifications for defence from attacks both by sea
+and land. Along the southern bank of the estuary extend the woods of
+Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley. Then we come to Catwater Haven,
+crowded with merchant-ships, and the older harbor of Sutton Pool. Mount
+Batten on one side and Citadel Point on the other guard the entrance to
+the haven. It was here that the English fleet awaited the Armada in
+1588; that Essex gathered his expedition to conquer Cadiz in 1596; and
+from here sailed the <i>Mayflower</i> with the Pilgrim Fathers in 1620.
+Plymouth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[Pg 438]</a></span> harbor's maritime and naval history is, however, interwoven
+with that of England.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>PLYMOUTH.</h3>
+
+<p>The port of Plymouth comprises what are called the "Three
+Towns"&mdash;Plymouth proper, covering about a square mile, Stonehouse, and
+Devonport, where the great naval dockyard is located. Plymouth Sound is
+an estuary of the English Channel, and receives the Plym at its
+north-eastern border and the Tamar at its north-western, the sound being
+about three miles square and protected by the great breakwater a mile
+long, with a lighthouse, and defended by forts. The Plym broadens into
+the Catwater, used as a haven for merchant-vessels and transports and
+capable of furnishing anchorage to a thousand ships at one time. The
+Tamar broadens into the Hamoaze, which is the naval harbor, and is four
+miles long, with sufficient anchorage-ground for the entire British
+navy. Sutton Pool is a tidal harbor now used by merchant-vessels. The
+coasts of Plymouth Sound are rocky and abrupt, and strong fortresses
+frown at every entrance. It is the naval dockyard that gives Plymouth
+its chief importance: this is at Devonport, which is strongly fortified
+by breastworks, ditches, embankments, and heavy batteries. The great
+dockyard encloses an area of ninety-six acres and has thirty-five
+hundred feet of water-frontage. There are here five docks and also
+building-slips, where the great British war-ships are constructed.
+Another enclosure of seventy-two acres at Point Keyham is used for
+repairing ships, and a canal seventy feet wide runs through the yards to
+facilitate the movement of materials. Immense roofs cover the docks.
+East of Devonport, divided from it by a creek, and adjoining Plymouth,
+is Stonehouse. Here are the great victualling yard, marine barracks, and
+naval hospital. The Royal William Victualling Yard occupies fourteen
+acres on a tongue of land at the mouth of the Tamar, and cost $7,500,000
+to build. Here the stores are kept and naval supplies furnished, its
+great features being the vast government bakehouse, the cooperage, and
+the storehouses. Its front is protected by a redoubt, and to the
+eastward are the tasteful grounds of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe's winter
+villa. The marine barracks, which have the finest mess-room in England,
+will accommodate fifteen hundred men; the naval hospital, northward of
+Stonehouse, will furnish beds for twelve hundred. There are three
+thousand men employed about these great docks and stores, and they form
+the most extensive naval establishment in the world. Near Mount Wise are
+the Raglan Barracks, where there is a display of cannon taken from the
+Turks.</p>
+
+<p>In Plymouth Sound is a bold pyramidal rock, the Isle of St. Nicholas,
+which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[Pg 439]</a></span> is a formidable fortress. Mount Edgcumbe is on the western shore,
+and on the eastern side is Plymouth's pretty park, known as the Hoe,
+where the old Eddystone Lighthouse will be set up. Having come down the
+Plym, we will now ascend the Tamar, past the huge docks and stores, and
+about five miles above see the great Albert Bridge, which carries a
+railway, at a height of one hundred feet, from the hills of Devon over
+to those of Cornwall on the western shore. It is built on nineteen
+arches, two broad ones of four hundred and fifty-five feet span each
+bridging the river, the entire structure being two thousand two hundred
+and forty feet long. Out in the English Channel, fourteen miles from
+Plymouth, is its famous beacon&mdash;the Eddystone Lighthouse. Here
+Winstanley perished in the earlier lighthouse that was swept away by the
+terrible storm of 1703, and here Smeaton built his great lighthouse in
+1759, one hundred feet high, which has recently been superseded by the
+new lighthouse. The Eddystone Rocks consist of twenty-two gneiss reefs
+extending about six hundred and fifty feet, in front of the entrance to
+Plymouth Sound. Smeaton's lighthouse, modelled after the trunk of a
+sturdy oak in Windsor Park, became the model for all subsequent
+lighthouses. It is as firm to-day as when originally built, but the reef
+on which it rests has been undermined and shattered by the joint action
+of the waves and the leverage of the tall stone column, against which
+the seas strike with prodigious force, causing it to vibrate like the
+trunk of a tree in a storm. The foundation-stone of the new lighthouse
+was laid on a reef one hundred and twenty-seven feet south of the old
+one in 1878. It is built of granite and rises one hundred and
+thirty-eight feet above the rock, its light being visible seventeen
+miles: it was first lighted May 18, 1882.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>TAVISTOCK.</h3>
+
+<p>A short distance up the Tamar it receives its little tributary the Tavy,
+running through a deep ravine, and on its banks are the ruins of
+Tavistock Abbey, founded in the tenth century and dedicated to St. Mary.
+Orgarius, the Earl of Devonshire, was admonished in a dream to build it,
+but his son Ordulph finished it. He was of great strength and gigantic
+stature, could break down gates and stride across a stream ten feet
+wide. They still preserve, we are told, some of Ordulph's huge bones in
+Tavistock Church. The Danes plundered and burned the abbey, but it was
+rebuilt in greater splendor, and its abbot sat in the House of Peers.
+When it was disestablished, like Woburn it fell to Lord Russell, and it
+is now owned by the Duke of Bedford. The remains of the grand
+establishment, however, are but scanty, and its best memory is that of
+the printing-press set up by the monks, which was the second press
+established in England. The Duke of Bedford's attractive villa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[Pg 440]</a></span> of
+Endsleigh is near Tavistock, and a short distance south of the town is
+Buckland Abbey, built on the river-bank by the Countess of Devon in the
+thirteenth century. This was the home of Sir Francis Drake, and is still
+held by his descendants. Drake was born in a modest cottage on the banks
+of the Tavy about the year 1539. North of Tavistock, on the little river
+Lyd, are the ruins of Lydford Castle, surrounded by a village of rude
+cottages. Here originated the "law of Lydford," a proverb expressive of
+hasty judgment:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"First hang and draw,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then hear the cause by Lydford law."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>One chronicler accounts for this proverb by the wretched state of the
+castle jail, in which imprisonment was worse than death. At Lydford is a
+remarkable chasm where a rude arch is thrown across an abyss, at the
+bottom of which, eighty feet below, the Lyd rattles along in its
+contracted bed. This is a favorite place for suicides, and the tale is
+still told of a benighted horseman, caught in a heavy storm, who spurred
+his horse along the road at headlong speed to seek shelter in the
+village. Next day it was found that the storm had swept the bridge away,
+and the rider shuddered to think how his horse on that headlong ride
+through the tempest had leaped over the abyss without his knowing it.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE NORTHERN COAST OF DEVON.</h3>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p441" id="p441"></a>
+<img src="images/p441.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF DUNSTER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF DUNSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="p440" id="p440"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">MINEHEAD.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p440.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:300px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:380px; height:70px;"> </div>
+
+<p><br />Exmoor is a broad strip of almost mountainous moorland extending through
+the northern borders of Somerset and Devon and down to the coast of
+Bristol Channel. Its hills descend precipitously to the sea, so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">[Pg 441]</a></span> that
+only small brooks flow northward from them, excepting the Lyn, which
+manages to attain the dignity of a river by flowing for some distance
+among the hills parallel to the coast. It was but recently that good
+roads were constructed across this lonely moor, and on its northern
+edge, where the craggy headland of Greenaleigh is thrust out into the
+sea, is the harbor of Minehead, with a little fishing-village skirting
+its shores. A short distance inland, and seated at the bases of the
+steep Brendon Hills, which rise in sharp wooded slopes above its houses,
+is the little market-town of Dunster. On an outlying hill, projecting
+from the mass, the original lord of Dunster built his castle, perching
+it upon a rocky crag that Nature herself designed for a fortress. The
+Saxons called it their "Hill-tower." Its picturesque mass of buildings
+is of various dates, but much more modern than their early day, most of
+the present structure having been built in Queen Elizabeth's reign. The
+castle was held for King Charles in the Civil War, and besieged by the
+Parliamentary troops, whose commander sent this bloodthirsty message to
+its governor: "If you will deliver up the castle, you shall have fair
+quarter: if not, expect no mercy: your mother shall be in front to
+receive the first fury of your cannon." The governor promptly and
+bravely replied, "If you do what you threaten, you do the most barbarous
+and villainous act that was ever done. My mother I honor, but the cause
+I fight for and the masters I serve are God and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">[Pg 442]</a></span> king.&mdash;Mother, do
+you forgive me, and give me your blessing, and let the rebels answer for
+spilling that blood of yours, which I would save with the loss of mine
+own if I had enough for both my master and yourself." The mother also
+without hesitation answered him: "Son, I forgive thee, and pray God to
+bless thee, for this brave resolution. If I live I shall love thee the
+better for it: God's will be done!" Whether the atrocious threat would
+have been put into execution was never decided, for a strong Royalist
+force soon appeared, routing the besiegers, capturing a thousand of
+them, and releasing the lady. But the castle was soon afterwards taken
+for the Parliament by Colonel Blake, subsequently the admiral. It was
+then demolished, and now the summit of the flat-topped hill, where
+formerly was the keep, is devoted to the peaceful amusement of a
+bowling-green, from which there are exquisite views of the Brendon Hills
+and far away over the Bristol Channel to the distant coast of Wales. It
+was at Dunster Castle that William Prynne was shut up a prisoner by
+Cromwell. Prynne had been pilloried, shorn of his ears, and imprisoned
+by King Charles I. for his denunciations of the court, and then
+indulging in the same criticism of the Protector, he was confined at
+Dunster. It is now the head-quarters for those who love the exciting
+pleasures of stag-hunting on Exmoor.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p442" id="p442"></a>
+<img src="images/p442.jpg" width="600" height="341" alt="ON PORLOCK MOOR&mdash;THE ROAD TO OARE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ON PORLOCK MOOR&mdash;THE ROAD TO OARE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p443" id="p443"></a>
+<img src="images/p443.jpg" width="600" height="472" alt="THE DOONE VALLEY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DOONE VALLEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Journeying westward over the hills from Minehead, which is just now
+endeavoring, though with only partial success, to convert itself into a
+fashionable watering-place, Dunkery Beacon is seen raising its head
+inland&mdash;a brown, heathy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">[Pg 443]</a></span> moorland elevated seventeen hundred feet above
+the sea. There is a grand panorama disclosed from its summit, though it
+is a toilsome ascent to get up there and overlook the fifteen counties
+it can display. Far below is the level shore of Porlock Bay, with the
+little village set in at the base of the cliffs. Here Southey was
+sheltered at its inn, and wrote a sonnet while he was "by the unwelcome
+summer rain detained;" and here the village has slept ever since the
+Danes harried and Harold burned it. Then the road climbs laboriously up
+the hill again to Porlock Moor, and as the top is reached, far away is
+seen a little grassy basin running like a streak off towards the
+north-west, and enclosed by steep hills, in which it is ultimately lost.
+This is the valley of the Lyn, and joining it is another little glen,
+with a hamlet of white cottages at the junction: this is the Oare
+valley, the centre of some of the most stirring traditions of Exmoor,
+embodied in Blackmore's novel of <i>Lorna Doone</i>. Two centuries ago a
+lawless clan established themselves in this lonely glen, from which
+issues the Bagworthy Water not far away from the little village of Oare.
+Here was Jan Ridd's farm, and near it the cataract of the Bagworthy
+Water-slide, while above this cataract, in the recesses of Doone Glen,
+was the robbers' home, whence they issued to plunder the neighboring
+country. The novel tells how Jan Ridd, who was of herculean strength,
+was standing with his bride Lorna at the altar of the little church in
+Oare when a bullet wounded her. Out rushed Jan from the presence of his
+wife, dead as he thought, to pursue<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">[Pg 444]</a></span> the murderer. He was unarmed, and
+rode after him over the moorland, tearing from an oak a mighty bough as
+he passed under it. To this day the rent in "Jan Ridd's tree" is shown.
+Then came the struggle, and an Exmoor bog swallowed up the murderer, who
+was the last of the robber chieftains; and afterwards the bride
+recovered and the happy pair were united. Exmoor is the only place
+remaining in the kingdom where the wild stag is still hunted with
+hounds, the season being in the early autumn, when all the inns are
+crowded, and on the day of a "meet" all the country seems alive.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p444-1" id="p444-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p444-1.jpg" width="650" height="250" alt="BAGWORTHY WATER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BAGWORTHY WATER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 461px;">
+<a name="p444-2" id="p444-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p444-2.jpg" width="461" height="600" alt="JAN RIDD&#39;S TREE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JAN RIDD&#39;S TREE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p445-2" id="p445-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p445-2.jpg" width="600" height="500" alt="CASTLE ROCK, LYNTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CASTLE ROCK, LYNTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p446-1" id="p446-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p446-1.jpg" width="600" height="433" alt="THE DEVIL&#39;S CHEESE-RING." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DEVIL&#39;S CHEESE-RING.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><a name="p446-2" id="p446-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 373px;">
+<img src="images/p446-2.jpg" width="373" height="450" alt="TOWER ON THE BEACH, LYNMOUTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TOWER ON THE BEACH, LYNMOUTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><a name="p445-1" id="p445-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p445-1.jpg" width="450" height="393" alt="VIEW ON THE EAST LYN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">VIEW ON THE EAST LYN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From Oare the valley of the Lyn can be followed down to the sea, flowing
+through its wooded gorge and disclosing many pretty views. It runs
+rapidly over the rocks, and, when at last seeking the sea, the little
+stream manages to escape out of the hills that have so long encompassed
+it, we again find coupled together an upper and a lower town&mdash;Lynton,
+perched hundreds of feet above on the crags, and Lynmouth, down by the
+water's edge, both in grandly picturesque locations. Crowded between the
+bases of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">[Pg 445]</a></span> the crags and the pebbly beach is the irregular line of old
+cottages beside the bubbling stream, with creeping vines climbing over
+their walls and thatched roofs, while beyond is thrust out the ancient
+pier that made the port of Lynmouth. Up on the crags, with houses
+nestling here in nooks and perched there upon cliffs, Lynton mounts by
+zigzag paths, until, on a rocky terrace above, it gets room to spread
+into a straggling street. The two streams called the East and West Lyn
+unite here before seeking the sea, and join their currents at the edge
+of the town. Here they leap over the boulders:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">[Pg 446]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Cool and clear, cool and clear,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By shining shingle and foaming weir,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under the crag where the ouzel sings,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the ivied wall where the church-bell rings."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Southey rapturously described the East Lyn Vale as the "finest spot,
+except Cintra and Arrabida, that I ever saw." It is like a miniature
+glen in the Alps or the Pyrenees, and every turn in the road up to the
+Waters-meet, where the Brendon joins the Lyn, discloses new beauties. It
+is an exquisite combination of wood, rock, and stream that baffles all
+description. Gentle flowers grow here to luxuriant perfection, protected
+from all chilling blasts and with ample moisture to assist the sunshine
+in their cultivation. But barely a mile east of Lynton on the coast
+there is told a different story: there is a valley of rocks, where
+between two ridges of hills the vale is covered with stones and almost
+completely laid bare, a terrific mass of boulders, the very skeleton of
+the earth. Overhanging the sea is the gigantic "Castle Rock," while
+facing it from the inland<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">[Pg 447]</a></span> side, at an elbow of the valley, is a queer
+pile of crags known as the "Devil's Cheese-Ring." From the castle is a
+view over the sea and of the romantic towns, with the little river
+flowing alongside and the tower on Lynmouth beach, while far westward
+the moorland spreads away towards those other romantic spots, Ilfracombe
+and Clovelly.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>COMBE MARTIN AND ILFRACOMBE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p447" id="p447"></a>
+<img src="images/p447.jpg" width="600" height="478" alt="ILFRACOMBE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ILFRACOMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us skirt along the precipitous Devonshire coast westward from the
+Lyn, where the cliffs rise high and abruptly from the water, with
+foliage on the hills above them and sheep browsing like little white
+specks beyond. Thus Exmoor is prolonged westward in a broad and lofty
+ridge of undulating hills, through which a stream occasionally carves
+its devious course in a deep and sheltered valley that comes out to the
+sea between bold, rocky headlands. Far out over the sea loom up the
+coasts of Wales in purple clouds. Soon in a breach in the wall of crags
+we find Combe Martin, its houses dotted among the gardens and orchards
+clustering thickly around the red stone church. Here were silver-mines
+long ago, and here lived Martin of Tours, to whom William the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">[Pg 448]</a></span> Conqueror
+granted the manor which to this day bears his name. The neighboring
+hills grow the best hemp in Devon, and the crags guarding the harbor are
+known as the Great and Little Hangman, the former, which is the higher,
+standing behind the other. The local tradition says that once a fellow
+who had stolen a sheep was carrying the carcase home on his back, having
+tied the hind legs together around his neck. He paused for breath at the
+top of the hill, and, resting against a projecting slab, poised the
+carcase on the top, when it suddenly slipped over and garroted him. He
+was afterwards found dead, and thus named the hills. Near here was born,
+in 1522, Bishop Jewel of Salisbury, of whom it is recorded by that
+faithful biographer Fuller that he "wrote learnedly, preached painfully,
+lived piously, died peacefully." To the westward are Watersmouth, with
+its natural arch in the slaty rocks bordering the sea, and Hillsborough
+rising boldly to guard a tiny cove. Upon this precipitous headland is an
+ancient camp, and it overlooks Ilfracombe, the chief watering-place of
+the northern Devonshire coast. Here a smart new town has rapidly
+developed, with paths cut upon the cliffs and encroachments made along
+the shore. High upon a pyramidal headland stands the ancient chapel
+where in the olden time the forefathers of the village prayed to St.
+Nicholas for deliverance from shipwreck. Now a lighthouse is relied on
+for this service. The promontory is connected with a still bolder and
+loftier headland, the Capstone Rock. The town is built on the slope of
+the hills overlooking these huge round-topped crags, but its streets do
+not run down to sand-beaches. There is little but rocks on the shore and
+reefs in the water, worn into ridges of picturesque outline, over which
+the surf breaks grandly in time of storm. We are told that in a cave
+near by, Sir William Tracy, one of the murderers of St. Thomas &agrave; Becket
+at Canterbury, concealed himself while waiting to escape from England.
+He and his accomplices were ordered to purge themselves by a pilgrimage
+to the Holy Land, but Tracy was not able to accomplish it. The winds of
+heaven always drove him back whenever he tried to embark, for he had
+struck the first blow at Becket. He was buried in Morthoe Church beyond
+Ilfracombe.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>MORTE POINT AND BIDEFORD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p449" id="p449"></a>
+<img src="images/p449.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="MORTE POINT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MORTE POINT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A few miles westward the coast-line suddenly bends to the southward, the
+angle being marked by a wild, rocky headland known as Morte Point, which
+the Devonshire proverb describes as "the place on earth which Heaven
+made last and the devil will take first." It is a chaos of rock-ridges,
+the sea washing against it on three sides, and is a noted place for
+wrecks. Far out at sea can be seen a half-submerged black rock which the
+Normans christened the Morte<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">[Pg 449]</a></span> Stone, or "Death Rock." To the southward
+sweeps a fringe of yellow sand around Morte Bay, and behind the headland
+is the little village of Morthoe, where Tracy is buried. Beyond the
+boundary of the bay, at Baggy Point, is another and broader bay, whose
+shores make a grand sweep to the westward again. This is Barnstaple Bay,
+into which flows a wide estuary forming the outlet of two rivers: the
+northernmost is the Taw, and at the head of its estuary is Barnstaple.
+The other is the Torridge, and upon it, at about nine miles distance
+from Barnstaple, is the small but prettier town of Bideford. This is
+described by Kingsley as a little white town, sloping upward from its
+broad tidal river, paved with yellow sands, and having a many-arched old
+bridge towards the uplands to the westward. The wooded hills close in
+above the town, but in front, where the rivers join, they sink into a
+hazy level of marsh and low undulations of sand. The town has stood
+almost as it is now since Grenvil, the cousin of William the Conqueror,
+founded it. It formerly enjoyed great commercial prosperity under the
+patronage of the Grenvilles, reaching its height in the seventeenth
+century. The old quay remains. The ancient bridge, which is a remarkable
+one, was built five hundred years ago, and is constructed on twenty-four
+piers, firmly founded, yet shaking under the footstep. The superstitious
+say it is of miraculous origin, for when they began to build it some
+distance farther up the river, each night invisible hands removed the
+stones to their present position. It is also a wealthy bridge and of
+noble rank, having its heraldic coat-of-arms (a ship and a bridge proper
+on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">[Pg 450]</a></span> plain field) and owning broad estates, with the income of which
+"the said miraculous bridge has from time to time founded chantries,
+built schools, waged suits-at-law, and, finally, given yearly dinners,
+and kept for that purpose the best-stocked cellar of wines in all
+Devon."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p450-1" id="p450-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p450-1.jpg" width="650" height="291" alt="BIDEFORD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BIDEFORD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>CLOVELLY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p450-2" id="p450-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p450-2.jpg" width="600" height="476" alt="THE MAIN STREET, CLOVELLY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MAIN STREET, CLOVELLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p451" id="p451"></a>
+<img src="images/p451.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="OLD HOUSES ON THE BEACH, CLOVELLY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES ON THE BEACH, CLOVELLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The coast of Barnstaple Bay sweeps around to the westward again, and
+here, under the precipitous crags, nestling in one of the most
+picturesque nooks in all England, is Clovelly. From an inland plateau of
+considerable elevation the land falls steeply to the sea, with a narrow
+strip of sand or shingle sometimes interposed, whereon the surf dashes
+before it reaches the rocks. Dense foliage, with here and there a
+protruding crag, overhangs the cliffs. Ravines occasionally furrow the
+rocky<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">[Pg 451]</a></span> wall, and in one of these Clovelly is situated, beginning with
+some scattered houses on the margin of the plateau above, descending the
+cliff in one steep street, and spreading out about a miniature harbor on
+the edge of the sea. There are few such streets to be seen
+elsewhere&mdash;not made for wheeled vehicles, but paved in a series of broad
+steps, over which the donkeys and the population plod with the produce
+of the fleet of fishing-boats the village owns. It is narrow, with
+strangely-shaped houses jumbled together alongside, and balconies and
+bay-windows, chimneys and gables&mdash;all mixed up together. Here Kingsley
+spent most of his boyhood, and hither flock the artists to paint odd
+pictures for almost every British art-exhibition. Its little pier was
+built in Richard II.'s time, when as now it was a landing-place for the
+mackerel-and herring-boats. This quay has recently been somewhat
+enlarged. Clovelly Court, the home of the Careys, is near by, with its
+beautiful park extending out to the tall cliffs overhanging the sea. On
+one craggy point, known as Gallantry Bower, and five hundred feet above
+the waves, was an old watch-tower of the Normans, now reduced to a mere
+ring of stones; and to the westward a few miles the bold rocks of
+Hartland Point mark another angle in the coast as it bends southward
+towards Cornwall. Eleven miles out to sea, rising four hundred feet and
+guarded all around by grim precipices, is Lundy Island. Here in a little
+cove are some fishermen's huts, while up on the top is a lighthouse,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">[Pg 452]</a></span>
+and near it the ruins of the old Moresco Castle. We have already
+referred to Sir Walter Raleigh's judicial murder: it was accomplished
+mainly through the treachery of his near kinsman, Sir Lewis Stukely,
+then vice-admiral of Devon. This and other actions caused Stukely to be
+almost universally despised, and he was finally insulted by Lord Howard
+of Effingham, when he complained to the king. "What should I do with
+him?" asked James. "Hang him? On my sawl, mon, if I hung all that spoke
+ill of thee, all the trees in the island were too few." Being soon
+afterwards detected in the royal palace debasing the coin, he fled to
+Devon, a ruined man. But he found no friends, and, every door being
+closed against him, he sailed out to Lundy Island, and died alone in a
+chamber of the ruined castle.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>CORNWALL.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p452" id="p452"></a>
+<img src="images/p452.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="FOWEY PIER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FOWEY PIER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Pursuing the bold shores of Cornwall southward, we pass many crags and
+headlands, notably the Duke of Cornwall Harbor, protected by high
+projecting cliffs, and just below find the ruins of King Arthur's castle
+of Tintagel, located amid some of the most romantic scenery of this
+grand line of coast. Here King Arthur is supposed to have been born, and
+the fortress, built on a high rock almost surrounded by the sea, was
+evidently of great strength. Here on the shore are King Arthur's Cliffs,
+and their attractions, with the little church of Tintagel and the
+partly-ruined fishing-town of Bossiney, make the place a popular resort
+for poets and painters. Not far away in the interior, and standing near
+the Tamar River on the top of a steep hill, is Launceston Castle, with
+the town built on the adjacent slopes. The ruins, which are of great
+antiquity, cover considerable surface, the walls being ten or twelve
+feet thick, and the keep rising high upon the top of the hill, nearly
+one hundred feet in diameter. This keep is said to have been an ancient
+British structure. Old Roman and also leather coins have been found in
+it, and it was a renowned stronghold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">[Pg 453]</a></span> when William the Norman came to
+England and gave it to Robert, Earl of Moreton. It now belongs to the
+Duchy of Cornwall. It was garrisoned for King Charles in the Civil War,
+and was one of his last supports. Westward in Cornwall is Camelford,
+over which frown the two Cornish mountains, Rowtor and Brown Willy, a
+short distance to the southward, rising respectively thirteen hundred
+and thirteen hundred and eighty feet. The Cornish range forms the
+backbone of the narrow peninsula which now juts out to the
+south-westward, marking the extreme point of England, and down which we
+will gradually journey. Crossing the mountains, we come to Liskeard, in
+a beautiful country filled with ancient Roman remains. Going down to the
+southern coast, we reach Fowey with its picturesque harbor and pier,
+with the Sharpitor and Kilmarth Mountains beyond, twelve hundred and
+twelve hundred and seventy-seven feet high respectively. Fowey harbor,
+sheltered by high hills richly clothed with green, is the "haven under
+the hill" of which the balladist sings, and near its quaint old pier,
+almost covered with houses, is Fowey Church, recently effectually
+restored.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE LIZARD PENINSULA.</h3>
+
+<p>The Cornish peninsula upon approaching its termination divides into two,
+with the semicircular sweep of Mount's Bay between them. To the
+southward juts out the Lizard, and to the westward Land's End. While the
+latter is the westernmost extremity of England, the Lizard is usually
+the earliest headland that greets the mariner. The Lizard peninsula is
+practically almost an island, the broad estuary of the Helford River on
+one side and a strange inlet called Loo Pool on the other narrowing its
+connecting isthmus to barely two miles width. To the northward of the
+Helford River is the well-known port of Falmouth. Inland are the great
+Cornwall tin-and copper-mines, the former having been worked for
+centuries, while the latter are now probably of the greater importance.
+Competition and the costlier working of the tin-mines have caused many
+of them to be abandoned. These metals are mostly mined on the black
+moorlands, which offer little attraction to the tourist, who gladly
+avoids them for the picturesque shores of Falmouth harbor. A broad
+estuary guarded by bold headlands forms Carrick Roads, and the western
+one of these also guards the entrance to Falmouth harbor, which Leland
+describes as being in his day "the principal haven of all Britain."
+Though long frequented, however, no town stood on its shores until the
+seventeenth century. When Raleigh came back from his voyage to Guiana
+there was but a single house on the shore, where his crew were lodged,
+and he, being impressed with the advantages of the location for a port,
+laid before Queen Elizabeth a plan for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[Pg 454]</a></span> the foundation of a town. But it
+was a long while before anything came of it, and the place was not named
+Falmouth or incorporated until the reign of Charles II. It became a
+post-office packet-station for the Atlantic ports in the last century,
+and Byron in his day described it as containing "many Quakers and much
+salt fish." Its Cornish name is Pen-combick, meaning "the village in the
+hollow of the headland," which has been corrupted by the mariner into
+"Penny-come-quick," because on one occasion the landlady of the solitary
+inn sold the liquor engaged for a party of visitors to a parcel of
+thirsty Dutch sailors who had just landed, and, being taken to task for
+it explained that the "penny come so quick" she could not deny them.
+Pendennis Castle guards the entrance to Carrick Roads, and was built by
+Henry VIII., being enlarged by Elizabeth. It and Raglan were the last
+castles holding out for King Charles. Lightning greatly injured
+Pendennis in the last century. On the opposite portal of the harbor
+stands St. Mawe's Castle. The ramparts of Pendennis afford a view of
+extreme beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p454" id="p454"></a>
+<img src="images/p454.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="PENDENNIS CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PENDENNIS CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p455" id="p455"></a>
+<img src="images/p455.jpg" width="650" height="466" alt="MULLYON COVE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MULLYON COVE</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p456-1" id="p456-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p456-1.jpg" width="600" height="388" alt="LION ROCK&mdash;MULLYON IN THE DISTANCE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LION ROCK&mdash;MULLYON IN THE DISTANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p456-2" id="p456-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p456-2.jpg" width="450" height="381" alt="CAVE AT MULLYON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAVE AT MULLYON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">[Pg 455]</a></span>On the narrow neck of land uniting the Lizard peninsula to the mainland
+stands Helston, formerly guarded by a castle that has long since
+disappeared, and named, we are told, from the great block of granite
+that once formed the portal of the infernal regions. The master of those
+dominions once, when he went abroad, carried his front door with him,
+and was met in this neighborhood by St. Michael, whereupon there was a
+"bit of a fight" between the two adversaries. His Satanic Majesty was
+defeated, and, dropping his front door, fled.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">[Pg 456]</a></span> The great boulder, which
+thus named the town, is built into a wall back of the Angel Inn, and
+they hold an annual festival on May 8th to commemorate the event. Loo
+Pool cuts deeply into the land to the westward of Helston, and the
+district south of it is an elevated plateau, bare and treeless
+generally, but containing many pretty glens, while the shore is lined
+with sequestered coves. Here grow the Cornish heath-flowers, which are
+most beautiful in the early autumn, while the serpentine rocks of its
+grand sea-cliffs, relieved by sparkling golden crystals and veins of
+green, red, and white, make fine ornaments. Upon the coast, southward
+from Helston, is Mullyon Cove, a characteristic specimen of the Lizard
+scenery. A glen winds down to the sea, displacing the crags to get an
+outlet, and disclosing their beautiful serpentine veins. A pyramidal
+rock rises on one hand, a range of serpentine cliffs on the other, and a
+flat-topped island in front. In the serpentine cliffs is the portal of a
+cave that can be penetrated for over two hundred feet, and was a haunt
+of the smugglers in former days, the revenue officers generally winking
+at them for a share of the spoils. We are told that in the last century
+the smugglers here had six vessels, manned by two hundred and
+thirty-four men and mounting fifty-six cannon&mdash;a formidable fleet&mdash;and
+when Falmouth got a collector sufficiently resolute to try to break them
+up, they actually posted handbills offering rewards for his
+assassination. At one place on shore they had a battery of six-pounders,
+which did not hesitate to fire on the king's ships when they became too
+inquisitive. The coast is full of places about which tales are told of
+the exploits of the smugglers, but the crime has long since become
+extinct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">[Pg 457]</a></span> there because it no longer pays. South of Mullyon are the bold
+headlands of Pradanack Point and Vellan Head, while beyond we come to
+the most noted spot on the Lizard peninsular coast.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p457-1" id="p457-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p457-1.jpg" width="600" height="317" alt="PRADANACK POINT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PRADANACK POINT.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>KYNANCE COVE AND LIZARD HEAD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p457-2" id="p457-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p457-2.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="KYNANCE COVE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KYNANCE COVE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p458" id="p458"></a>
+<img src="images/p458.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="THE POST-OFFICE, LIZARD POINT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE POST-OFFICE, LIZARD POINT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p459-1" id="p459-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 371px;">
+<img src="images/p459-1.jpg" width="371" height="450" alt="POLPEOR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">POLPEOR.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Kynance Cove is the opening of one of the many shallow valleys indenting
+the inland plateau, with crags and skerries thrown over the sea, showing
+that the cliffs on the shore have not, as usual, maintained an unbroken
+front to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">[Pg 458]</a></span> waves, but have been knocked about in wild confusion.
+Groups of islands dot the cove; Steeple Rock rears its solitary pinnacle
+aloft; the Lion Rock crouches near the southern verge. It is as wild a
+place as can well be imagined, and at low water strips of sand connect
+these rocks with the mainland, though the quickly-rising waters often
+compel the visitor to run for it. At the water's edge, when the tide is
+low, little wave-worn caverns are disclosed in the cliffs which are
+known as the "Drawing-Room," the "Parlor," etc. On the smooth face of
+the landward slope of one of the larger islands there are two orifices
+looking like the slit of a letter-box. The upper is called the
+"Post-Office," and the lower one the "Bellows." If you hold a sheet of
+paper in the former a gust of air will suddenly suck it into the
+aperture. Then if you look into the "Post-Office" to investigate its
+secrets, a column of spray will as suddenly deluge you with a
+first-class shower-bath. This is on Asparagus Island, and by climbing to
+the top of the rock the mystery is solved. The rock is almost severed by
+a fissure opening towards the sea: a wave surges in and spurts from the
+orifices on the landward side, then recedes and sucks the air back
+through them. From the cove at Kynance down to the extremity of the
+Lizard the scenery is everywhere fine. Here is the southernmost
+extremity of England, there being three headlands jutting into the sea
+near one another, the westernmost being the Old Lizard Head. Upon the
+middle one are the lighthouses that warn the mariner. Black cliffs
+above, and a sea studded with reefs below, give this place a forbidding
+aspect. One of the reefs is known as "Man-of-War Rock," from the wreck
+of a vessel there, and the weapons cast upon the neighboring shore gave
+it the name of the "Pistol Meadow." The other headland supports a
+telegraph-station, and a submarine cable goes down into the sea, to
+reappear again upon the distant shores of Portugal. From<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">[Pg 459]</a></span> here the
+signals are sent that give notice of arriving ships. Beneath the cliffs
+rises out of the sea that strange black crag, looking like a projecting
+pulpit, which is known as the Bumble Rock. In the green sward above the
+cliffs a yawning gulf opens its rocky mouth, and is called the Lion's
+Den. It terminates in a rocky tunnel which communicates with the sea
+through a natural archway. This was a cavern, the rocky roof of which
+fell in about thirty-five years ago. Nestling under the middle headland
+is the tiny port of Polpeor, the little harbor of the Lizard, a
+fishermen's paradise in a small way. Around on the eastern coast of the
+peninsula the rocks are also fine, and here are the fishing-villages of
+Lizard Town and Landewednack, the latter having a strange old church,
+reputed to be the last in which a sermon was preached in the Cornish
+tongue. The grave of one of the rectors tells that he lived to be one
+hundred and twenty years old, for people live long in this delicious
+climate. These villages are devoted to the pilchard-fishery, and during
+the season the lookout-men can be seen perched on the cliffs watching
+for the approach of a shoal, to warn the fishing-boats that are ready to
+put to sea from the sheltered coves below. Great crags are tumbled into
+the ocean, and the coast abounds in caves, with occasionally a quarry
+for the serpentine. Beyond can be traced the dim outline of the
+headlands guarding Falmouth entrance. This is a unique district, whose
+rock-bound coast is a terror to the mariner, but a delight to the
+geologist and artist, and whose recesses, where the Cornish dialect
+still flourishes among the old folk, are about the only places in
+England not yet penetrated by the railway, which has gridironed the
+British kingdom everywhere else.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p459-2" id="p459-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p459-2.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="ROCKS NEAR THE LIZARD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROCKS NEAR THE LIZARD.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">[Pg 460]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 511px;">
+<a name="p460" id="p460"></a>
+<img src="images/p460.jpg" width="511" height="550" alt="ST. MICHAEL&#39;S MOUNT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. MICHAEL&#39;S MOUNT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The western peninsula of Cornwall juts far out beyond Mount's Bay, which
+acquires its name from what is probably the most remarkable crag in all
+this wonderful region. This was the Iktis of the ancient geographers, an
+object so conspicuous as to attract attention in all ages. It is a mass
+of granite rising from the sands, covering about twenty-five acres, and
+the top of the church which crowns it is elevated two hundred and
+thirty-eight feet. It is impossible by either pen or pencil to give an
+adequate idea of St. Michael's Mount&mdash;of the shattered masses of the
+rock itself, its watch-turrets and batteries, the turf and sea-plants
+niched in its recesses, and the gray, lichen-covered towers that rise
+from the summit. Cornish tradition says that the giant Cormoran built
+the first fortress here; and he is one of those unfortunate giants whose
+fate is told under the name of Corincus in the veritable history of Jack
+the Giant-killer. The archangel St. Michael afterwards appeared to some
+hermits on its rocks, and this gave the mount its religious character
+and name. Milton has written of it in <i>Lycidas</i>:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Or whether thou to our moist views denied,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sleep'st by the fable of Bellerus old,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where the great vision of the guarded mount</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Looks towards Namancos and Bayona's hold."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was always a strongly-defended place, and became a Benedictine
+monastery&mdash;at first as an offshoot of the greater abbey of St. Michael
+in Normandy, which in situation it resembles, and afterwards as an
+independent establishment. It was a stronghold as well as a religious
+house, however, and was notorious as the "back-door of rebellion,"
+frequently besieged. The crowning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">[Pg 461]</a></span> square tower is that of the monastic
+church, and St. Michael's Chair is on the battlements&mdash;a stone beacon
+which is of great importance to all newly-married couples in that
+region, for it bestows the ascendency on the husband or wife who first
+sits in it. It is of this chair Southey's ballad about the adventurous
+Rebecca was written; and he tells that just as she was installed.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Merrily, merrily rang the bells,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And out Rebecca was thrown."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The family of St. Aubyn hold the mount, and they have recently
+thoroughly restored the buildings, adding some fine apartments. It is
+accessible only when the receding tide leaves bare the natural causeway
+that connects the island with the shore.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>PENZANCE AND THE LAND'S END.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p461" id="p461"></a>
+<img src="images/p461.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="OLD MARKET, PENZANCE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD MARKET, PENZANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><a name="p462" id="p462"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">THE LAND&#39;S END.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p462.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:100px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:520px; height:120px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:590px; height:230px;"> </div>
+
+<p>This whole peninsula is filled with hut-villages, cromlechs, and other
+prehistoric remains of its ancient people, but we have not the space to
+devote to their description, however agreeable it might be. Hill-castles
+and caves are also frequent, each with its traditions. The chief town is
+Penzance, or the "Holy Headland," jutting out into Mount's Bay, where
+once was a chapel dedicated to St. Anthony, who with St. Michael kept
+guard over this favored region. Here is another prosperous seat of the
+pilchard-fishery, and among its people the favorite toast is to the
+three Cornish products, "tin, fish, and copper." Once, they tell us,
+seventy-five millions of these fish were caught in a single day. They
+rise in small shoals from the depths of the sea, then unite into larger
+ones, and finally, about the end of July, combine in a mighty host, led
+by the "Pilchard King" and most powerful of the tribe. The lookouts on
+the crags give warning, and then begins the extraordinary migration that
+calls out all the Cornish fishermen. Pursued by hordes of sea-birds and
+predatory fish, the pilchards advance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">[Pg 462]</a></span> towards the land in such vast
+numbers as to discolor the water and almost to impede the passage of
+vessels. The enormous fish-army passes the Land's End, a grand
+spectacle, moving along parallel to the shore, and then comes the
+harvest. On the southward of the granite mass that forms the extremity
+of the peninsula rises the Logan Rock, the entire headland being
+defended by remains of ancient intrenchments. The Logan itself is a
+granite block weighing sixty tons, and so nicely balanced that it will
+oscillate. Near here, as we go out towards the western extremity of the
+peninsula, are several old churches, many ancient remains that have
+yielded up their chief curiosities for museums, and remarkable cliffs
+projecting into the sea, the strangest of them being the "holed headland
+of Penwith," a mass of columnar granite which the waves have shattered
+into deep fissures. Then beyond is the Land's End itself, the most
+westerly point in England, with the rocks of the Longships out in the
+water with their guardian lighthouse. The extreme point of the Land's
+End is about sixty feet high and pierced by a natural tunnel, but the
+cliffs on each side rise to a greater elevation. The faint outlines of
+the Scilly Islands are seen on the distant horizon, but all else is a
+view over the boundless sea. The Land's End is a vast aggregation of
+granite, which Sir Humphrey Davy, the Cornish chemist and poet, who was
+born at Penzance, has thus depicted:</p></div>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 11em;">"On the sea</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The sunbeams tremble, and the purple light</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Illumes the dark Bolerium: seat of storms;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">High are his granite rocks; his frowning brow</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hangs o'er the smiling ocean. In his caves</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There sleep the haggard spirits of the storm.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wild, dreary, are the schistine rocks around,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Encircled by the wave, where to the breeze</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The haggard cormorant shrieks; and far beyond,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where the great ocean mingles with the sky,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Are seen the cloud-like islands gray in mists."</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">[Pg 463]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Surrey Side&mdash;The Chalk Downs&mdash;Guildford&mdash;The Hog's Back&mdash;Albury
+Down&mdash;Archbishop Abbot&mdash;St. Catharine's Chapel&mdash;St. Martha's
+Chapel&mdash;Albury Park&mdash;John Evelyn&mdash;Henry Drummond&mdash;Aldershot
+Camp&mdash;Leith Hill&mdash;Redland's Wood&mdash;Holmwood Park&mdash;Dorking&mdash;Weller
+and the Marquis of Granby Inn&mdash;Deepdene&mdash;Betchworth Castle&mdash;The
+River Mole&mdash;Boxhill&mdash;The Fox and Hounds&mdash;The Denbies&mdash;Ranmore
+Common&mdash;Battle of Dorking&mdash;Wotton
+Church&mdash;Epsom&mdash;Reigate&mdash;Pierrepoint House&mdash;Longfield&mdash;The Weald of
+Kent&mdash;Goudhurst&mdash;Bedgebury Park&mdash;Kilndown&mdash;Cranbrook&mdash;Bloody
+Baker's Prison&mdash;Sissinghurst&mdash;Bayham Abbey&mdash;Tunbridge
+Castle&mdash;Tunbridge Wells&mdash;Penshurst&mdash;Sir Philip Sidney&mdash;Hever
+Castle&mdash;Anne Boleyn&mdash;Knole&mdash;Leeds Castle&mdash;Tenterden Steeple and the
+Goodwin Sands&mdash;Rochester&mdash;Gad's Hill&mdash;Chatham&mdash;Canterbury
+Cathedral&mdash;St. Thomas &agrave; Becket&mdash;Falstaff Inn&mdash;Isle of
+Thanet&mdash;Ramsgate&mdash;Margate&mdash;North Foreland&mdash;The Cinque
+Ports&mdash;Sandwich&mdash;Rutupi&aelig;&mdash;Ebbsfleet&mdash;Goodwin Sands&mdash;Walmer
+Castle&mdash;South Foreland&mdash;Dover&mdash;Shakespeare's
+Cliff&mdash;Folkestone&mdash;Hythe&mdash;Romney&mdash;Dungeness&mdash;Rye&mdash;Winchelsea&mdash;Hastings&mdash;Pevensey&mdash;Hailsham&mdash;Hurstmonceux
+Castle&mdash;Beachy Head&mdash;Brighton&mdash;The Aquarium&mdash;The South
+Downs&mdash;Dichling Beacon&mdash;Newhaven&mdash;Steyning&mdash;Wiston
+Manor&mdash;Chanctonbury Ring&mdash;Arundel Castle&mdash;Chichester&mdash;Selsey
+Bill&mdash;Goodwood&mdash;Bignor&mdash;Midhurst&mdash;Cowdray&mdash;Dunford
+House&mdash;Selborne&mdash;Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and
+church&mdash;Greatham Church&mdash;Winchester&mdash;The New
+Forest&mdash;Lyndhurst&mdash;Minsted Manor&mdash;Castle Malwood&mdash;Death of William
+Rufus&mdash;Rufus's Stone&mdash;Beaulieu
+Abbey&mdash;Brockenhurst&mdash;Ringwood&mdash;Lydington&mdash;Christchurch&mdash;Southampton&mdash;Netley
+Abbey&mdash;Calshot Castle&mdash;The Solent&mdash;Portsea
+Island&mdash;Portsmouth&mdash;Gosport&mdash;Spithead&mdash;The Isle of Wight&mdash;High
+Down&mdash;Alum Bay&mdash;Yarmouth&mdash;Cowes&mdash;Osborne
+House&mdash;Ryde&mdash;Brading&mdash;Sandown&mdash;Shanklin Chine&mdash;Bonchurch&mdash;The
+Undercliff&mdash;Ventnor&mdash;Niton&mdash;St. Lawrence Church&mdash;St. Catharine's
+Down&mdash;Blackgang Chine&mdash;Carisbrooke
+Castle&mdash;Newport&mdash;Freshwater&mdash;Brixton&mdash;The Needles.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<h3>GUILDFORD.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p464" id="p464"></a>
+<img src="images/p464.jpg" width="600" height="356" alt="HIGH STREET, GUILDFORD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HIGH STREET, GUILDFORD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Crossing over the Thames to the Surrey side, we proceed southward to
+that vast chalk-measure which, like a miniature mountain-wall, divides
+the watershed draining into that river from the Weald of Sussex and of
+Kent. This chalky hill is here and there breached by the valley of a
+stream, and through it the Wey and the Mole, to which we have heretofore
+referred, flow northward to join the current of the Thames. In the gap
+formed by each there is a town, Guildford standing alongside the Wey,
+and Dorking on the Mole. Both develop magnificent scenery on the flanks
+of the chalk-ranges that surround them; and we will now go about thirty
+miles south-west from London and visit Guildford, whose origin is
+involved in the mystery that surrounds the early history of so many
+English towns. It was a royal manor in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">[Pg 464]</a></span> the days of King Alfred, being
+granted to his nephew, and it was here a few years before the Norman
+Conquest that the &aelig;theling &AElig;lfred was captured. Harold, the son of
+Canute, wished to destroy him to secure the succession to the throne. He
+forged a letter purporting to be from his mother, Queen Emma, inviting
+&AElig;lfred to come to England, and sent his minister Godwine forward, who
+met and swore allegiance to &AElig;lfred, lodging him at Guildford, and most
+of his comrades in separate houses there. In the night Harold's
+emissaries suddenly appeared, slew his comrades, and carried &AElig;lfred off
+to Ely, where he was loaded with fetters, and, being tried by some sort
+of tribunal, was blinded and then put to death. The monks of Ely
+enshrined his body, and of course miracles were wrought by it. The
+castle was built on the Wey after the Norman Conquest, and Henry II.
+made it a park and royal residence, so that it was long called the
+King's Manor. In Charles I.'s time it was granted to the Earl of
+Annandale. The situation of Guildford is picturesque; the chalk-range is
+narrowed to a line of steep, ridgy hills almost as straight as a wall
+and severed by the valley of the Wey. This pretty stream escapes from
+the Weald to the southward between the Hog's Back on the west and Albury
+Down on the east, the valley narrowing so as to form a natural gateway
+just where the river emerges. A bridge was built here, and this
+determined the site of the town, which straggles up the Hog's Back and
+the Down, and also spreads out in the broadening valley of the emerging
+river. High up in the hills that make the eastern slope of the valley is
+the old gray<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">[Pg 465]</a></span> castle-keep, with an ancient church-tower lower down and a
+new church by the waterside. From the bridge runs straight up this hill
+the chief thoroughfare of the town, High Street. The shapeless ruins of
+the old castle, the keep alone being kept in good condition, are not far
+away from the upper part of this street, crowning an artificial mound
+encompassed by what once was a ditch, but now is chiefly a series of
+gardens. The ancient church-tower, part way down the hill, is dedicated
+to St. Mary, but has been shorn of its original proportions in order to
+widen a street. This was done, we are told, for the convenience of
+George IV., who used to pass in a coach along this street on his way
+from London to Brighton. The tower is low and unassuming, and is
+supposed to date from the time of King Stephen. The new church of St.
+Nicholas stands by the river, and Guildford also possesses another
+church built of brick. None of these churches have spires, and therefore
+some local wit has written,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Poor Guildford, proud people;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three churches&mdash;no steeple."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The High Street climbs the hill past many quaint buildings, particularly
+the old town-hall, where the hill is somewhat less steep. Its upper
+stories project beyond the lower, being supported by carved beams, and
+the town-clock hangs over the street. Abbot's Hospital, built by
+Guildford's most noted townsman, George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury,
+is also in this street. He was born in a humble cottage, and the legend
+tells us that his mother, before the event, dreamed that if she could
+eat a pike she would have a son who would be a great man. She was unable
+to buy the fish anywhere, but, drawing a pailful of water from the
+river, to her surprise found a pike in it. When George was born the tale
+was told, and several distinguished people offered to become his
+sponsors. They gave him a good education, and he graduated at Balliol
+College, Oxford, and was made Dean of Westminster. He was one of the
+revisers of the Scriptures who prepared the revision in the seventeenth
+century, was made a bishop, and in 1611 Archbishop of Canterbury. His
+brother was Bishop of Salisbury, and another brother Lord Mayor of
+London. He was a great hunter, as were most ecclesiastics at that time,
+and in 1621, when shooting at a buck, his arrow accidentally pierced the
+arm of a gatekeeper, who soon bled to death. The archbishop was
+horror-stricken, settled an annuity upon the widow, and to the close of
+his life observed Tuesday, the day of the accident, as a weekly fast.
+This occurrence raised a hot dispute in the Church as to whether the
+archbishop, by having blood on his hands, had become incapable of
+discharging the duties of his sacred office. He retired to his hospital
+at Guildford while the inquiry was conducted, was ultimately
+exon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">[Pg 466]</a></span>erated, and in 1625 died. This hospital is built around a small
+quadrangle, and in its gateway-tower the unfortunate "King Monmouth" was
+lodged on his last journey from Sedgemoor to London. Abbot, according to
+the inscription on the walls, founded this charity for "a master, twelve
+brethren, and eight sisters"&mdash;all to be unmarried and not less than
+sixty years of age, and chosen from Guildford, preference to be given to
+"such as have borne office or been good traders in the town, or such as
+have been soldiers sent, and who have ventured their lives or lost their
+blood for their prince and country." The number of inmates is now
+increased, the endowment having accumulated. Guildford used to maintain
+the piety of its people by requiring that all should attend church and
+listen to a sermon, or else be fined a shilling. Over on the other side
+of the valley, on a grassy spur protruding from the Hog's Back, are the
+ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel, built in the fourteenth century. The
+local tradition tells that this and St. Martha's Chapel, on an adjacent
+hill, were built by two sister-giantesses, who worked with a single
+hammer, which they flung from hill to hill to each other as required.
+St. Catharine's Chapel long since fell in ruins, and not far away on the
+slope, St. Catharine's Spring flows perennially. On Albury Down is a
+residence of the Duke of Northumberland, Albury Park, laid out in the
+seventeenth century by John Evelyn, famous for his devotion to rural
+beauties, and the residence during the present century of Henry
+Drummond, the banker, politician, and theologian, the most caustic
+critic of his time in Parliament, and the great promoter of the Church
+of the Second Advent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p466" id="p466"></a>
+<img src="images/p466.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="RUINS OF ST. CATHARINE&#39;S CHAPEL, FROM THE RIVER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF ST. CATHARINE&#39;S CHAPEL, FROM THE RIVER.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467">[Pg 467]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>ALDERSHOT CAMP.</h3>
+
+<p>A few miles to the westward, near Farnborough, over the border in
+Hampshire, is Aldershot Camp, permanently established there in 1854. The
+Basingstoke Canal flows through a plateau elevated about three hundred
+and twenty feet above the sea, and divides the location into a north and
+south camp, the latter occupying much the larger surface and containing
+most of the public buildings. On a central hillock covered by clumps of
+fir trees are the headquarters of the general in command when the troops
+are being exercised and going through their man&oelig;uvres. The Long
+Valley stretches to the westward, terminating in a steep hill rising six
+hundred feet, from which the best view of the military movements is had
+on a field-day. The two camps cover about seven square miles, and they
+commonly contain about twelve thousand troops during the season for the
+man&oelig;uvres. There are long rows of wooden huts for the soldiers, and
+there are also barracks, hospitals, and other necessary buildings, the
+cost of the establishment of this military d&eacute;p&ocirc;t having exceeded
+$7,000,000 already. The annual reviews take place from June to
+September, the regiments of volunteers being detailed in turn to
+co-operate with the regular troops, so as to gain a practical knowledge
+of military duties.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>DORKING.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p467" id="p467"></a>
+<img src="images/p467.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="LEITH HILL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEITH HILL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p468" id="p468"></a>
+<img src="images/p468.jpg" width="600" height="433" alt="THE OLD DOVECOTE, HOLMWOOD PARK, SURREY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE OLD DOVECOTE, HOLMWOOD PARK, SURREY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Proceeding eastward along the chalk-hills for about twelve miles, we
+come<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468">[Pg 468]</a></span> to the breach made in them by the valley of the Mole for the
+passage of that strange little river. Here, however, appears a second
+and parallel range of hills, distant about four miles, the long and
+generally flat-topped ridge culminating in the commanding summit of
+Leith Hill. This is the highest ground in this part of England, rising
+nearly one thousand feet, a broad summit sloping gradually down towards
+the north, but presenting to the south a steep and, in places, a
+precipitous ascent. At its foot is the residence known as Leith Hill
+Place, where Mr. Hull lived in the last century, and built the tower for
+an outlook that crowns its summit, leaving orders in his will that he
+should be buried there. The tower was partially burned in 1877, but has
+been restored. The view from the top of Leith Hill is grand, although it
+takes some exertion to get there, and it discloses a panorama of typical
+English scenery over the white chalk-downs, dappled with green and the
+darker woodland, with the Thames lowlands far away to the north, while
+to the southward the land falls abruptly to the great valley of the
+Weald, a plain of rich red earth, with woods and grainfields and
+hedgerows stretching away to the dim line of the South Downs at the
+horizon. Pleasant little villas and old-time comfortable farm-houses are
+dotted all about with their dovecotes and outbuildings. To the eastward
+is the Redlands Wood, crowned by a tall silver<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">[Pg 469]</a></span> fir, and just beyond is
+Holmwood Common, whereon donkeys graze and flocks of geese patiently
+await the September plucking. Here, at Holmwood Park, is one of those
+ancient yet still populous dovecotes that contribute so much to enhance
+the beauties of English rural scenery.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p469" id="p469"></a>
+<img src="images/p469.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="THE WHITE HORSE INN, DORKING." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE WHITE HORSE INN, DORKING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Dorking lies in the valley of the Mole, just south of the high
+chalk-ranges, at the foot of wooded hills, and with its bordering
+meadows stretching out to the river-bank. It is an ancient town,
+appearing in the Domesday Book under the name of Dorchinges, and
+standing on the route which Julius C&aelig;sar took through these hills on his
+invasion of Britain. After the Norman Conquest the manor became the
+property of Earl Warrenne, and as a favorite halting-place on the road
+between London and the south coast in the Middle Ages it throve greatly
+and was noted for the number of its inns. Its chief street&mdash;High
+Street&mdash;runs parallel with the chalk-hills, and presents a picturesque
+variety of old-time houses, though none are of great pretensions. Among
+them is the long, low structure, with a quaint entrance-gate in the
+middle, suggestive of the days before railroads, and known as the "White
+Horse Inn." The ancient "Cardinal's Cap" has been transformed into the
+"Red Lion Inn," and the "Old King's Head," the most famous of these
+hostelries, has been removed to make room for the post-office. This
+latter inn was the original of "The Marquis of Granby, Dorking," where
+that substantial person, Mr. Wel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">[Pg 470]</a></span>ler, Senior, lived, and under the sway
+of Mrs. Weller the veteran coachman smoked his pipe and practised
+patience, while the "shepherd" imbibed hot pineapple rum and water and
+dispensed spiritual consolation to the flock. An old stage-coachman who
+lived years ago at Dorking is said to have been Dickens's original for
+this celebrated character, and the townsfolk still talk of the venerable
+horse-trough that stood in front of the inn wherein the bereaved
+landlord immersed Mr. Stiggins's head after kicking him out of the bar.</p>
+
+<p>The parish church is the only public building of any pretension in
+Dorking, and it is quite new, replacing another structure whose
+registers go back to the sixteenth century, containing, among other
+curious entries, the christening in 1562 of a child whose fate is
+recorded in these words: "Who, scoffing at thunder, standing under a
+beech, was stroke to death, his clothes stinking with a sulphurous
+stench, being about the age of twenty years or thereabouts, at Mereden
+House." The Dorking fowls all have the peculiarity of an extra claw on
+each foot, being white and speckled, and a Roman origin being claimed
+for the breed, which is most delicate in flavor and commands a high
+price. On the southern outskirts of the town is Deepdene, a mansion
+surrounded by magnificent trees and standing on the slope of a hill. It
+was the home of the Hopes, its late owner, H. T. Hope, having been the
+author of the novel <i>Anastasius</i>. He was a zealous patron of art, and
+first brought Thorwaldsen into public notice by commissioning him to
+execute his "Jason" in marble. The house contains many rare gems of
+sculpture, including Canova's "Venus Rising from the Bath," with
+paintings by Raphael, Paul Veronese, and others. It was here that
+Disraeli wrote the greater part of <i>Coningsby</i>. A <i>dene</i> or glade
+opening near the house gives the place its name, the grounds being
+extensive and displaying gardens and fine woods. The scenery of this
+glade is beautiful, while from the terrace at the summit of the hill,
+where there is a Doric temple, a magnificent view can be had far away
+over the lowlands. Deepdene is attractive both within and without, for
+its grand collection of art-treasures vies with Nature in affording
+delight to the visitor. The ruins of Betchworth Castle, built four
+hundred years ago, are alongside the Mole. "The soft windings of the
+silent Mole" around Betchworth furnished a theme for Thomson, while
+Milton calls it "the sullen Mole that runneth underneath," and Pope,
+"the sullen Mole that hides his diving flood." Spenser has something to
+say of the</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"&mdash;&mdash;Mole, that like a nousling mole doth make</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His way still underground till Thames he overtake."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>This peculiarity comes from the river hiding itself under Box Hill,
+where,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">[Pg 471]</a></span> after disappearing for about two miles, it comes bubbling up out
+of the ground again. This disappearance of streams in hilly regions is
+not unusual. Box Hill, beneath whose slopes the Mole passes, is part of
+the great chalk-range rising steeply on the eastern side of the gap
+where the river-valley breaks through. Its summit is elevated four
+hundred feet, the hill being densely wooded and containing large
+plantations of box, whence its name. One of these box-groves covers two
+hundred and thirty acres. On the brow of Box Hill, Major Labilli&egrave;re, a
+singular character, was buried in 1800. He lived in Dorking, and,
+becoming convinced that the world had been turned topsy-turvy, selected
+his grave, and gave instructions that he should be buried head downward,
+so that at the final setting right of mundane affairs he would rise
+correctly. In the Mole Valley, at the base of Box Hill, at a pretty
+little house called the "Fox and Hounds," Keats finished his poem of
+<i>Endymion</i>, and here Lord Nelson spent his last days in England before
+leaving on the expedition that closed with his greatest victory and
+death at Trafalgar.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the hill on the western side of the gap is the Denbies, from which
+there is a view all the way to London. At the back of this high hill is
+Ranmore Common. The Denbies are the scene of the "Battle of Dorking,"
+having been held by the English defensive army in that imaginary and
+disastrous conflict wherein German invaders land upon the southern
+coasts, destroy the British fleets by torpedoes, triumphantly march to
+the base of the chalk-ranges, fight a terrific battle, force their way
+through the gaps in the hills, capture London, and dethrone England from
+her high place among the great powers of Europe. This was a summer-time
+magazine article, written to call English attention to the necessity of
+looking after the national defences; and it had a powerful effect.
+Westward of Dorking there is fine scenery, amid which is the little
+house known as the "Rookery," where Malthus the political economist was
+born in 1766. Wotton Church stands alongside the road near by, almost
+hid by aged trees&mdash;a building of various dates, with a porch and stunted
+tower. Here John Evelyn was taught when a child, and the graves of his
+family are in a chapel opening from the north aisle. Wotton House, where
+Evelyn lived, is in the adjacent valley and at the foot of the famous
+Leith Hill. His favorite pastime was climbing up the hill to see over
+the dozen counties the view discloses, with the sea far away to the
+southward on the Sussex coast. The house is an irregular brick building
+of various dates, the earliest parts built in Elizabethan days, and it
+contains many interesting relics of Evelyn, whose diary has contributed
+so much to English history from the reign of Charles I. to Queen Anne.
+He was a great botanist, and has left a prominent and valuable work in
+<i>Sylva</i>, his treatise on trees. It was to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_472" id="Page_472">[Pg 472]</a></span> north-west of Wotton, on
+a tract of common known as Evershed Rough, that Bishop Samuel
+Wilberforce, while riding with Earl Granville in 1873, was thrown from
+the saddle by his stumbling horse, and striking the ground with his head
+was almost immediately killed. A cross marks the sad and lonely spot.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>EPSOM AND REIGATE.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="author"><a name="p472" id="p472"></a><span class="caption">PIERREPONT, SURREY.</span></p>
+<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p472.jpg); height: 100%;">
+
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:130px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:650px; height:260px;"> </div>
+<p>On the northern verge of the chalk-downs, and about fifteen miles south
+of London, is the famous race-course at Epsom, whither much of London
+goes for a holiday on the "Derby Day." Epsom is a large and rather
+rambling town located in a depression in the hills, and two hundred
+years ago was a fashionable resort for its medicinal waters, so that it
+soon grew from a little village to a gay watering-place. Its water was
+strongly impregnated with sulphate of magnesia, making the Epsom salts
+of the druggist, and also with small quantities of the chlorides of
+magnesium and calcium. None of these salts are now made at Epsom, they
+being manufactured artificially in large amounts at a low price. The
+Epsom well, however, that produced the celebrated waters, still remains
+on the common near the town. From a watering-place Epsom became
+transformed into a race-ground about a hundred years ago. There is a two
+days' meeting in April, but the great festival comes in May, continuing
+four days from Tuesday to Friday before Whitsuntide, unless Easter is in
+March, when it occurs in the week after Whitsunday. Wednesday is the
+grand day, when a vast crowd gathers to witness the Derby race,
+established in 1780 and named from the Earl of Derby's seat at
+Woodmansterne,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">[Pg 473]</a></span> near by. This is a race of a mile and a half for
+three-year olds. The Oaks Stakes are run for on Friday over the same
+course, but for three-year-old fillies only. This race is named from
+Lambert's Oaks, near the neighboring village of Banstead. The race-hill
+is elevated about five hundred feet above the sea, and the grand stand,
+which is the most substantial in England, affords magnificent views,
+stretching far away beyond Windsor Castle and the dome of St. Paul's in
+London. Epsom Downs on the Derby Day show the great annual festival of
+England, but at other times the town is rather quiet, though its Spread
+Eagle Inn is usually a head-quarters for the racing fraternity.</p>
+
+
+<p>The ruins of Reigate Castle are a short distance south of Epsom, the
+pretty village of Reigate standing near the head of the lovely Holmsdale
+on the southern verge of the chalk-ranges. Beautiful views and an
+unending variation of scenery make this an attractive resort. Surrey is
+full of pleasant places, disclosing quaint old houses that bring down to
+us the architecture of the time of Elizabeth and the days of the "good
+Queen Anne." Some of these buildings, which so thoroughly exemplify the
+attractions of the rural homes of England, are picturesque and
+noteworthy. As specimens of many we present Pierrepoint House and
+Longfield, East Sheen. These are the old models now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_474" id="Page_474">[Pg 474]</a></span> being reproduced by
+modern architects, combining novelty without and comfort within, and
+they are just far enough from London to make them pleasant
+country-houses, with all the advantage of city luxuries.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p473" id="p473"></a>
+<img src="images/p473.jpg" width="600" height="437" alt="LONGFIELD, EAST SHEEN, SURREY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LONGFIELD, EAST SHEEN, SURREY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>THE WEALD OF KENT.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding eastward along the chalk-downs and over the border into Kent,
+we reach the Wealden formation, the "wooded land" of that county&mdash;so
+named by the Saxons&mdash;which stretches between the North and South Downs,
+the chalk-formations bordering this primeval forest, but now almost
+entirely transformed into a rich agricultural country. The Weald is a
+region of great fertility and high cultivation, still bearing numerous
+copses of well-grown timber, the oak being the chief, and furnishing in
+times past the material for many of its substantial oaken houses. The
+little streams that meander among the undulating hills of this
+attractive region are nearly all gathered together to form the Medway,
+which flows past Maidstone to join the Thames. It was the portions of
+the Weald around Goudhurst that were memorable for the exploits of
+Radford and his band, the originals of G. P. R. James's <i>Smugglers</i>.
+Goudhurst church-tower, finely located on one of the highest hills of
+the Wealden region, gives a grand view on all sides, especially to the
+southward over Mr. Beresford Hope's seat at Bedgebury Park. In this old
+church of St. Mary are buried the Bedgeburys and the Colepeppers. Their
+ancient house, surrounded by a moat, has been swept away, and the
+present mansion was built in the seventeenth century out of the proceeds
+of a sunken Spanish treasure-ship, Sir James Hayes, who built the house,
+having gone into a speculation with Lord Falkland and others to recover
+the treasure. This origin of Bedgebury House is recorded on its
+foundation-stone: it has been greatly enlarged by successive owners, and
+is surrounded by ornamental gardens and grounds, with a park of wood,
+lake, and heather covering two thousand acres. In the neighboring church
+of Kilndown, Field-marshal Beresford, the former owner of Bedgebury,
+reposes in a canopied sepulchre. Just to the eastward is Cranbrook, the
+chief market-town of the Weald, the ancient sanctuary of the Anabaptists
+and the historical centre of the Flemish cloth-trade, which used to be
+carried on by the "old gray-coats of Kent." Their descendants still live
+in the old-time factories, which have been converted into handsome
+modern houses. Edward III. first induced the Flemings to settle in Kent
+and some other parts of England, and from his reign until the last
+century the broadcloth manufacture concentrated at Cranbrook. When Queen
+Elizabeth once visited the town she was entertained at a manor about a
+mile from Cranbrook, and walked thence into the town upon a carpet, laid
+down the whole way, made of the same cloth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">[Pg 475]</a></span> that her loyal men of Kent
+wore on their backs. In Cranbrook Church were held the fierce
+theological disputes of Queen Mary's reign which resulted in the
+imprisonment of the Anabaptists and other dissenters by Chancellor
+Baker. Over the south porch is the chamber with grated windows known as
+"Bloody Baker's Prison." Among the old customs surviving at Cranbrook is
+that which strews the path of the newly-wedded couple as they leave the
+church with emblems of the bridegroom's trade. The blacksmith walks upon
+scraps of iron, the shoemaker on leather parings, the carpenter on
+shavings, and the butcher on sheepskins. In an adjacent glen almost
+surrounded by woods are the ruins of Sissinghurst, where Chancellor
+Baker lived and built the stately mansion of Saxenhurst, from which the
+present name of its ruins is derived. The artists Horsley and Webster
+lived at Sissinghurst and Cranbrook for many years, and found there
+frequent subjects of rustic study. The Sissinghurst ruins are
+fragmentary, excepting the grand entrance, which is well preserved.
+Baker's Cross survives to mark the spot where the Anabaptists had a
+skirmish with their great enemy; and the legend is that he was killed
+there, though history asserts that this theological warrior died in his
+bed peaceably some time afterwards in London.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 668px;">
+<a name="p475" id="p475"></a>
+<img src="images/p475.jpg" width="668" height="450" alt="RUINS OF SISSINGHURST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF SISSINGHURST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near Lamberhurst, on the Surrey border and on the margin of the Teise,
+is the Marquis of Camden's seat at Bayham Abbey. Its ruins include a
+church, a gateway, and some of the smaller buildings. It was once highly
+attractive, though small, and its ruined beauty is now enhanced by the
+care with which the ivy is trained over the walls and the greensward
+floor is smoothed. Ralph de Dene founded this abbey about the year 1200,
+and after the dissolution Queen Elizabeth granted it to Viscount
+Montague. It was bought in the last century by Chief-Justice Pratt,
+whose son, the chancellor, became Marquis of Camden. The modern mansion
+is a fine one, and from it a five-mile walk through the woods leads to
+Tunbridge on the Medway. Chief among the older remains of this
+pleasantly-located and popular town is Tunbridge Castle, its keep having
+stood upon a lofty mound above the river. This "Norman Mound," as it is
+called, is now capped with ruined walls, and an arched passage leads
+from it to the upper story of the elaborate gate-house, still in
+excellent preservation. Richard Fitzgilbert built the keep, and ruled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476">[Pg 476]</a></span>
+the "League of Tunbridge," but his castle, after a long siege by Henry
+III., was taken away from his successor, who assumed the name of Gilbert
+de Clare. From the De Clares the stronghold passed to the Audleys and
+Staffords, and it is now held by Lord Stafford. The gate-house is a fine
+structure, square in form, with round towers at each corner. The ruins
+are richly adorned with mouldings and other decorations, and within is a
+handsome state-apartment. Tunbridge is a quiet town, standing where five
+of the tributaries of the Medway come together, over which it has as
+many stone bridges. One of these streams, the Tun, gives the town its
+name. In St. Stephen's Church, a badly mutilated building with a fine
+spire, many of the De Clares are buried, and the quaint half-timbered
+building of the "Chequers Inn" helps maintain the picturesque appearance
+of the Tunbridge High Street. The spa of Tunbridge Wells, with its
+chalybeate springs and baths, is a few miles southward, but the days of
+its greatest glory have passed away, though fashion to a moderate extent
+still haunts its pump-room and parade. This famous watering-place
+stands in a contracted valley enclosed by the three hills known as Mount
+Ephraim, Mount Zion, and Mount Pleasant.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p476-1" id="p476-1"></a><a name="p476-2" id="p476-2"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p476-1/476-2">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p476-1.jpg" width="450" height="386"
+ alt="TUNBRIDGE CASTLE." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p476-2.jpg" width="450" height="307"
+ alt="PENSHURST PLACE." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">TUNBRIDGE CASTLE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">PENSHURST PLACE.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p477" id="p477"></a>
+<img src="images/p477.jpg" width="450" height="307" alt="PENSHURST CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PENSHURST CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the westward of Tunbridge, and in the Medway Valley, is Penshurst,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477">[Pg 477]</a></span>
+celebrated as the home of Sir Philip Sidney&mdash;a grand, gray old house,
+built at many periods, begun in the fourteenth century and not completed
+until a few years ago. It is a pretty English picture within a setting
+of wooded hills and silver rivers, the pattern from which Sidney drew
+his description of "Laconia" in <i>Arcadia</i>. The buildings, particularly
+their window-heads, are ornamented with the tracery peculiar to Kent.
+The great hall, the earliest of these buildings, has a characteristic
+open-timber roof, while its minstrel-gallery, fronted by a wainscot
+screen, is ornamented with the badge of the Dudleys, the "bear and
+ragged staff." Within these halls are the family portraits of a noble
+lineage. Of Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Sidney and heiress of Sir John
+Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, Ben Jonson wrote this epitaph:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Underneath this sable hearse</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lies, the subject of all verse,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Death! ere thou hast slain another</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Learned and fair and good as she,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Time shall throw a dart at thee."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Sir Philip Sidney was her brother, born at Penshurst in 1554. The estate
+came through various owners, until, in the reign of Henry II., it was
+granted to Sir William Sidney, who commanded a wing of the victorious
+English at Flodden. Sir Philip, we are told, would have been King of
+Poland had not Queen Elizabeth interposed, "lest she should lose the
+jewel of her times." Algernon Sidney, beheaded on Tower Hill, was his
+descendant. Penshurst is now held by Baron de l'Isle, to whom it has
+descended through marriage. On the estate stands the quaint old
+Penshurst Church with its ivy-covered porch. The Eden River falls into
+the Medway near Penshurst, and alongside its waters is the well-known
+castellated residence which still survives from the Tudor days, Hever
+Castle, where, it is said, Anne Boleyn was born. Sir Geoffrey Boleyn,
+her great-grandfather, who was Lord Mayor of London in the reign of
+Henry VI., began Hever Castle, which was completed by his grandson,
+Anne's father. It was at Hever that King Henry wooed her. The house is a
+quadrangle, with high pitched roofs and gables and surrounded by a
+double<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_478" id="Page_478">[Pg 478]</a></span> moat, and is now a farm-house. Here they show the visitor Anne
+Boleyn's rooms, and also the chamber where her successor, Anne of
+Cleves, is said to have died, though this is doubted. King Henry,
+however, seized the estate of Hever from his earlier wife's family, and
+granted it to his subsequently discarded consort after he separated from
+her. Northward of Tunbridge, and near Sevenoaks, is Knole, the home of
+the family of Hon. L. S. Sackville-West, the present British minister at
+Washington. It is one of the most interesting baronial mansions in
+England, enclosed by a park five miles in circumference.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;">
+<a name="p478-1" id="p478-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p478-1.jpg" width="449" height="450" alt="HEVER CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HEVER CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p478-2" id="p478-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p478-2.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="GATEWAY OF LEEDS CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF LEEDS CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Proceeding eastward towards the outskirts of the Weald, we come to Leeds
+Castle, once the great central fortress of Kent. Standing in a
+commanding position, it held the road leading to Canterbury and the
+coast, and it dates probably from the Norman Conquest. Its moat
+surrounds three islands, from which, as if from the water, rise its
+walls and towers. This castle is now the residence of Mr. Wykeham Martin
+and contains many valuable antiquities. Also near the eastern border of
+the Weald is Tenterden, famous for its church-steeple, which Bishop
+Latimer has invested with a good story. The bishop in a sermon said that
+Sir Thomas More was once sent into Kent to learn the cause of the
+Goodwin Sands and the obstructions to Sandwich Haven. He sum<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_479" id="Page_479">[Pg 479]</a></span>moned
+various persons of experience, and among others there "came in before
+him an olde man with a white head, and one that was thought to be little
+lesse than an hundereth yeares olde. When Maister More saw this aged man
+he thought it expedient to hear him say his minde in this matter, for
+being so olde a man, it was likely he knew most of any man in that
+presence and company. So Maister More called this olde aged man unto
+him, and sayd, 'Father, tell me if ye can what is the cause of this
+great arising of the sande and shelfs here about this haven, the which
+stop it up that no shippes can arrive here. Ye are the oldest man that I
+can espie in all this companye, so that, if any man can tell any cause
+of it, ye of likelihode can say most in it, or at leastwise more than
+any man here assembled.'&mdash;'Yea, forsooth, good master,' quod this olde
+man, 'for I am wellnigh an hundreth years olde, and no man here in this
+companye anything neare unto mine age.'&mdash;'Well, then,' quod Maister
+More, 'how say you in this matter? What think ye to be the cause of
+these shelfs and flattes that stop up Sandwich Haven?'&mdash;'Forsooth, syr,'
+quoth he, 'I am an olde man; I think that Tenterton Steeple is the cause
+of Goodwin Sandes. For I am an olde man, syr,' quod he, 'and I may
+remember the building of Tenterton Steeple, and I may remember when
+there was no steeple at all there. And before that Tenterton Steeple was
+a-building there was no manner of speaking of any flattes or sandes that
+stopped the haven; and, therefore, I thinke that Tenterton Steeple is
+the cause of the destroying and decaying of Sandwich Haven.' And even so
+to my purpose," says Latimer in conclusion, "is preaching of God's worde
+the cause of rebellion, as Tenterton Steeple is a cause that Sandwich
+Haven is decayed." Now this "olde aged man" had some excuse for his
+theory in the Kentish tradition, which says that the abbot of St.
+Augustine, who built the steeple, used for it the stones collected to
+strengthen the sea-wall of Goodwin Sands, then part of the main land.
+The next storm submerged the district, of which the Goodwins are the
+remains, and thus the steeple caused the quicksands, according to the
+Kentish theory.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>ROCHESTER AND CHATHAM.</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeding down the Medway, it flows past the city of Rochester, the
+river being crowded with vessels and crossed here by a bridge with a
+swinging draw. Rochester has a fine old cathedral, rather dilapidated,
+and in part restored, but its chief attraction is the castle towering
+above the river, its Norman keep forming a tower over seventy feet
+square and rising one hundred feet high, its masonry disclosing vast
+strength and impressive massiveness. Cobham Hall, the residence of Earl
+Darnley, is near Rochester, standing in a nobly wooded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">[Pg 480]</a></span> park seven miles
+in circumference. Just north of Cobham Park is Gad's Hill, where Charles
+Dickens lived. Beyond Rochester the powerful modern defensive work of
+Fort Pitt rises over Chatham to defend the Medway entrance and that
+important dockyard. The town is chiefly a bustling street about two
+miles long. The dockyard is one of the largest in England, and its
+defensive works, as yet incomplete, will when finished make it a
+powerful fortress, there being several outlying batteries and works
+still to complete. The Gun Wharf contains a large park of artillery, and
+there are barracks for three thousand men extending along the river.
+There is also an extensive convict-prison with two thousand inmates, who
+work upon the dock extension and at making bricks for its construction.
+Chatham has several military and naval hospitals. Opposite the dockyard
+is Upnor Castle, used as a powder-magazine and torpedo-school. This
+castle, the original defensive work of Chatham, was bombarded by Van
+Tromp when he came up the Medway in Charles II.'s reign&mdash;an audacity for
+which he was afterwards punished. The suburb of Brompton is completely
+enveloped by the forts and buildings of the post, contains barracks and
+hospitals for five thousand men, and is also the head-quarters of the
+Royal Engineers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 492px;">
+<a name="p480" id="p480"></a>
+<img src="images/p480.jpg" width="492" height="600" alt="ROCHESTER CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROCHESTER CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>CANTERBURY.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;">
+<a name="p481" id="p481"></a>
+<img src="images/p481.jpg" width="396" height="600" alt="CANTERBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CANTERBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving the estuary of the Medway, still farther east in Kent, in the
+vale of the Stour, is the ancient cathedral city of Canterbury, whereof
+Rimmer says it "is one of the most delightful cities in England for an
+antiquary." Its cathedral is approached through the quaint narrow street
+of Mercery Lane, where once stood the Checquers Inn that was the resort
+of Chaucer's pilgrims. At the end of this lane is the principal entrance
+to the cathedral close&mdash;Prior Gold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">[Pg 481]</a></span>smith's Gate, commonly called Christ
+Church Gate, built in 1517: it was formerly surmounted by turrets, but
+these have been partly taken down. The arms of Becket are carved upon
+the gateway, and beyond it rise the gray towers of the venerable
+cathedral. On the east side of the close is Broad Street, where part of
+the old city-walls are still preserved. This was the site of St.
+Augustine's monastery, and Lanfranc, the first archbishop after the
+Conquest, rebuilt the cathedral church, which was continued by his
+successor, Anselm. It was in this church that Becket was murdered in
+1170, and "in the glorious choir of Conrad" his corpse was watched by
+the monks on the following night. This choir was burned down four years
+later, but afterwards rebuilt. The present cathedral consists of work
+extending from Lanfranc's time until that of Prior Goldstone in the
+fifteenth century, thus exhibiting specimens of all the schools of
+Gothic architecture. Canterbury Cathedral is among the largest churches
+in England, being five hundred and twenty-two feet long, and its
+principal entrance is by the south porch. The nave is striking, and in
+the choir the eye is immediately attracted by its great length, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_482" id="Page_482">[Pg 482]</a></span>
+hundred and eighty feet&mdash;the longest in the kingdom&mdash;and by the singular
+bend with which the walls at the eastern end approach each other. The
+architecture is antique, and the interior produces an impression of
+great solemnity. The north-western transept is known as the Transept of
+the Martyrdom, where Becket was slain just after Christmas by four
+knights in 1170. A small square piece cut out of one of the flagstones
+marks the spot, and there still remain the door leading from the
+cloisters by which Becket and the knights entered the cathedral, and the
+part of the wall in front of which the assassinated archbishop fell.
+There is an attractive window in this transept, the gift of Edward IV.
+The cathedral is full of monuments, and in Trinity Chapel, behind the
+choir, where Becket had sung his first mass when installed as
+archbishop, was the location chosen for his shrine, but it long ago
+disappeared. Here is also the monument of Edward the Black Prince, with
+his effigy in brass, and suspended above it his helmet, shield,
+sword-scabbard, and gauntlets. Henry IV. is also buried in Canterbury,
+with his second wife, Joan of Navarre; Cardinal Pole is entombed here;
+and in the south-western transept is the singular tomb of Langton,
+archbishop in the days of Magna Charta, the stone coffin so placed that
+the head alone appears through the wall. In the crypt was Becket's tomb,
+which remained there until 1220, and at it occurred the penance and
+scourging of Henry II. The cathedral has two fine western towers, the
+northern one, however, not having been finished until recently. The
+central tower, known as "Bell Harry," rises two hundred and thirty-five
+feet, and is a magnificent example of Perpendicular Gothic. In the close
+are interesting remains of St. Augustine's Monastery, including its fine
+entrance-gate and guest-hall, now part of St. Augustine's College, one
+of the most elaborate modern structures in Canterbury. The monastery had
+been a brewery, but was bought in 1844 by Mr. Beresford Hope and devoted
+to its present noble object. On the hill above St. Augustine, mounted by
+the Longport road, is the "mother church of England," St. Martin's,
+which had been a British Christian chapel before the Saxons came into
+the island, and was made over to Augustine. The present building
+occupies the site of the one he erected.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the old city-wall is Canterbury Castle, its venerable Norman
+keep being now used as the town gasworks. There are many old houses in
+Canterbury, and its history has been traced back twenty-eight hundred
+years. It was the Roman colony of Durovernum. Among its quaint houses is
+the Falstaff Inn, still a comfortable and popular hostelrie, having a
+sign-board supported by iron framework projecting far over the street.
+Adjoining is the West Gate&mdash;the only one remaining of the six ancient
+barriers of the city built by Archbishop Sudbury, who was killed in 1381
+by Wat Tyler's rebels.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">[Pg 483]</a></span> This gate stands on the road from London to
+Dover, and guards the bridge over a little branch of the Stour; the
+foundations of the lofty flanking round towers are in the river-bed. The
+gate-house was long used as a city prison. It was in this weird old city
+that Chaucer located many of his Canterbury Tales, that give such an
+insight into the customs of his time. The landlord of the Tabard Inn in
+Southwark, whose guests were of all ranks, proposed a journey to
+Canterbury after dinner, he to adjudge the best story any of them told
+on the road. Chaucer's characters were all cleverly drawn and lifelike,
+while his innkeeper was a man of evidently high "social status," and, as
+he himself said, "wise and well taught." The Stour flows on to the sea,
+whose generally low shores are not far away, with the Isle of Thanet to
+the northward and London's watering-place of Ramsgate on its outer
+verge. Here is Pegwell Bay, noted for its shrimps, and a short distance
+westward from Ramsgate is Osengal Hill, from which there is a fine view,
+the summit being covered by the graves of the first Saxon settlers of
+Thanet. To the northward a short distance is the sister watering-place
+of Margate, near the north-eastern extremity of Thanet and ninety miles
+from London: its pier is nine hundred feet long. On the extremity of
+Thanet, about three miles from Margate, is the great lighthouse of the
+North Foreland.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;">
+<a name="p483" id="p483"></a>
+<img src="images/p483.jpg" width="409" height="550" alt="FALSTAFF INN, CANTERBURY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FALSTAFF INN, CANTERBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE CINQUE PORTS.</h3>
+
+<p>Off the mouth of the Stour and the Goodwin Sands, and thence down the
+coast to Dover, is the narrowest part of the strait between England and
+France. This is a coast, therefore, that needed defence from the
+earliest times, and the cliff-castles and earthworks still remaining
+show how well it was watched. The Romans carefully fortified the entire
+line of cliffs from the Goodwin Sands to Beachy Head beyond Hastings.
+There were nine fort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">[Pg 484]</a></span>resses along the coast, which in later times were
+placed under control of a high official known as the "Count of the Saxon
+Shore," whose duty was to protect this part of England against the
+piratical attacks of the Northern sea-rovers. These fortresses commanded
+the chief harbors and landing-places, and they marked the position of
+the famous Cinque Ports, whose fleet was the germ of the British navy.
+They were not thus named until after the Norman Conquest, when John de
+Fiennes appeared as the first warden. The Cinque Ports of later English
+history were Sandwich, Dover, Hythe, Romney, and Hastings, each of which
+had its minor ports or "limbs," such as Deal, Walmer, Folkestone, Rye,
+Winchelsea, and Pevensey, that paid tribute to the head port and enjoyed
+part of its franchises. The duty of the Cinque Ports was to furnish
+fifty-seven ships whenever the king needed them, and he supplied part of
+the force to man them. In return the ports were given great freedom and
+privileges; their people were known as "barons," were represented in
+Parliament, and at every coronation bore the canopy over the sovereign,
+carrying it on silver staves having small silver bells attached. The
+canopy was usually afterwards presented to Becket's shrine at
+Canterbury, and its bearers after the coronation dined in Westminster
+Hall at the king's right hand. But the glory of these redoubtable Cinque
+Ports has departed. Dover is the only one remaining in active service;
+Sandwich, Hythe, and Romney are no longer ports at all; while Hastings
+is in little better condition. The tides have gradually filled their
+shallow harbors with silt. Of the "limbs," or lesser ports, two,
+Winchelsea and Pevensey, are now actually inland towns, the sea having
+completely retired from them. Such has also been the fate of Sandwich,
+which in the time of Canute was described as the most famous harbor of
+England. The coast has greatly changed, the shallow bays beyond the old
+shore-line, which is still visible, being raised into green meadows. In
+this way the water-course that made Thanet an island has been closed.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SANDWICH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p485" id="p485"></a>
+<img src="images/p485.jpg" width="600" height="324" alt="THE BARBICAN, SANDWICH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN, SANDWICH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This silting up began at a remote era, closing one port after another,
+and Sandwich rose upon their decline. It is the most ancient of the
+Cinque Ports, and existed as a great harbor until about the year 1500,
+when it too began to silt up. In a century it was quite closed, traffic
+had passed away, and the town had assumed the fossilized appearance
+which is now chiefly remarked about it. Sandwich lingers as it existed
+in the Plantagenet days, time having mouldered it into quaint condition.
+Trees grow from the tops of the old walls, and also intrude upon the
+deep ditch with its round towers at the angles. Large open spaces,
+gardens, and orchards lie between the houses within the walls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_485" id="Page_485">[Pg 485]</a></span> of the
+city. Going through the old gateway leading to the bridge crossing the
+Stour, a little church is found, with its roof tinted with yellowish
+lichens, and a bunch of houses below it covered with red, time-worn
+tiles, and the still and sleepy river near by. This was the very gate of
+that busy harbor which four centuries ago was the greatest in England
+and the resort of ships from all parts of the then known world. Its
+customs dues yielded $100,000 annually at the small rates imposed, and
+the great change that has been wrought can be imagined, as the visitor
+looks out over the once famous harbor to find it a mass of green meadows
+with venerable trees growing here and there. Sandwich has no main
+street, its winding, narrow and irregular passage-ways being left
+apparently to chance to seek out their routes, while a mass of houses is
+crushed together within the ancient walls, with church-towers as the
+only landmarks. These churches give the best testimony to the former
+wealth and importance of the town, the oldest being that of St. Clement,
+who was the patron of the seafarers. This church is rather large, with a
+central tower, while the pavement contains many memorials of the rich
+Sandwich merchants in times long agone. St. Peter's Church remains only
+as a fragment; its tower has fallen and destroyed the south aisle. It
+contains a beautiful tomb erected to one of the former wardens of the
+Cinque Ports. The old code of laws of Sandwich, which still survives,
+shows close pattern after the Baltic towns of the Hanseatic League.
+Female criminals were drowned in the Guestling Brook, which falls into
+the Stour; others were buried alive in the "thief duns" near that
+stream. Close by the old water-gate of Sandwich is the Barbican, and
+from it a short view across the marshes discloses the ancient Roman town
+of Rutupi&aelig; and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">[Pg 486]</a></span> closed-up port of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa
+are said to have first landed. Here was the oyster-ground of the Romans,
+who loved the bivalves as well as their successors of to-day. Of the
+walls of the Roman town there still remain extensive traces, disclosing
+solid masonry of great thickness, composed of layers of rough boulders
+encased externally with regular courses of squared Portland stone. There
+are square towers at intervals along these walls, with loopholed
+apartments for the sentinels. Vast numbers of Roman coins have been
+found in and around this ancient city, over one hundred and forty
+thousand, it is said, having come to light, belonging to the decade
+between 287 and 297, when Britain was an independent Roman island.
+Passing southward along the coast, we skirt the natural harbor of the
+Downs, a haven of refuge embracing about twenty square miles of safe
+anchorage, and bounded on the east by the treacherous Goodwin Sands,
+where Shakespeare tells us "the carcase of many a tall ship lies
+buried." It is possible at low water to visit and walk over portions of
+these shoals. They are quicksands of such character that if a ship
+strikes upon them she will in a few days be completely swallowed up.
+Modern precautions, however, have rendered them less formidable than
+formerly. The great storm of 1703, that destroyed the Eddystone
+Lighthouse, wrecked thirteen war-ships on the Goodwins, nearly all their
+crews perishing. As we look out over them from the low shores at Deal
+and Walmer below Sandwich, or the chalk-cliffs of Dover beyond, a fringe
+of breakers marks their line, while nearer the coast merchant-ships at
+anchor usually crowd the Downs. In Walmer Castle was the official
+residence of the lord warden of the Cinque Ports, an office that is soon
+to be abolished, and which many famous men have held. Here lived Pitt,
+and here died the Duke of Wellington, closing his great career.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>DOVER.</h3>
+
+<p>Beyond, the coast rises up from the low sandy level, and rounding the
+South Foreland, on which is a fine electric lighthouse of modern
+construction, we come to the chalk-cliffs, on top of which are the dark
+towers of Dover Castle, from whose battlements the road descends to the
+town along the water's edge and in the valley of the little stream that
+gives the place its name&mdash;the Dour, which the Celts called the Dwr or
+"water," and the Romans the Dubr&aelig;. The great keep of Dover dates from
+William Rufus's reign, and is one of the many badges left in England of
+the Norman Conquest. There are earthworks at Dover, however, of much
+earlier origin, built for protection by the Celts and Romans, and
+forming part of the chain that guarded this celebrated coast, of which
+Dover, being at the narrowest part of the strait, was considered the
+key. But no such Norman castle rises elsewhere on these shores. "It was
+built by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">[Pg 487]</a></span> evil spirits," writes a Bohemian traveller in the fifteenth
+century, "and is so strong that in no other part of Christendom can
+anything be found like it." The northern turret on the keep rises four
+hundred and sixty-eight feet above the sea at the base of the hill, and
+from it can be had a complete observation of both the English and French
+coasts for many miles. Within the castle is the ancient Pharos, or
+watch-tower, a Roman work. Over upon the opposite side of the harbor is
+Shakespeare's Cliff,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"&mdash;&mdash;whose high and bending head</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Looks fearfully on the confined deep."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="p487-1" id="p487-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 334px;">
+<img src="images/p487-1.jpg" width="334" height="450" alt="THE PHAROS, DOVER CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE PHAROS, DOVER CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is no more impressive view in England than that from the Castle
+Hill of Dover, with the green fields and white chalk headlands
+stretching far away on either hand fringed by the breakers, the hills
+and harbors faintly seen across the strait in France, and the busy town
+of Dover lying at the foot of the cliff. This is half watering-place and
+half port of transit to the opposite coast. Its harbor is almost
+entirely artificial, and there has been much difficulty in keeping it
+open. That there is any port there now at all is due mainly to Raleigh's
+advice, and there is at present a well-protected harbor of refuge, with
+a fine pier extending nearly a half mile into the sea, with a fort at
+the outer end. From the top of the hill there looks down upon this pier
+the Saluting-Battery Gate of the castle, within which is kept that
+curious specimen of ancient gunnery known as "Queen Elizabeth's Pocket
+Pistol."</p>
+
+<p><a name="p487-2" id="p487-2"></a></p>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/p487-2.jpg" width="450" height="299" alt="SALUTING BATTERY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SALUTING BATTERY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Farther down the coast is the ancient "limb" of Dover, which has grown
+into the rival port of Folkestone. This modern port, created to aid the
+necessities of travel across the Channel, stands at the north-eastern
+corner of the Romney Marsh, a district that has been raised out of the
+sea and is steadily increasing in front of the older coast-line, shown
+by a range of hills stretching westward from Folkestone. This marsh has
+made the sea retreat fully three miles from Hythe, whose name signifies
+"the harbor," though it is now an inland village, with a big church
+dedicated to St. Leonard, the deliverer of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">[Pg 488]</a></span> captives, who was always
+much reverenced in the Cinque Ports, their warlike sailors being
+frequently taken prisoner. In a crypt under its chancel is a large
+collection of skulls and bones, many of them bearing weapon scars and
+cuts, showing them to be relics of the wars. Beyond Hythe the Rother
+originally flowed into the Channel, but a great storm in the reign of
+Edward I. silted up its outlet, and the river changed its course over
+towards Rye, so as to avoid the Cinque port of Romney that was
+established on the western edge of the marshes to which it gave the
+name. Romney is now simply a village without any harbor, and of the five
+churches it formerly had, only the church of St. Nicholas remains as a
+landmark among the fens that have grown up around it, an almost treeless
+plain intersected by dykes and ditches.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>RYE AND WINCHELSEA.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;">
+<a name="p488" id="p488"></a>
+<img src="images/p488.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="OLD HOUSES, RYE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES, RYE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The unpicturesque coast is thrust out into the sea to the point at
+Dungeness where the lighthouse stands a beacon in a region full of peril
+to the navigator; and then the coast again recedes to the cove wherein
+is found the quaint old town of Rye, formerly an important "limb" of the
+Cinque port of Hastings. It has about the narrowest and crookedest
+streets in England, and the sea is two miles away from the line of steep
+and broken rock along which "Old Rye" stretches. The ancient houses,
+however, have a sort of harbor, formed by the junction of the three
+rivers, the Rother, Brede, and Tillingham, and thus Rye supports quite a
+fleet of fishing-craft. Thackeray has completely reproduced in <i>Denis
+Duval</i> the ancient character of this place, with its smuggling
+atmosphere varied with French touches given by the neighborhood of the
+Continent. Rye stands on one side of a marshy lowland, and Winchelsea
+about three miles distant on the other side. The original Winchelsea, we
+are told, was on lower ground, and, after frequent floodings, was
+finally destroyed by an inundation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489">[Pg 489]</a></span> in 1287. King Edward I. founded the
+new town upon the hill above. It enjoyed a lucrative trade until the
+fifteenth century, when, like most of the others, its prosperity was
+blighted by the sea's retiring. The harbor then became useless, the
+inhabitants left, the houses gradually disappeared, and, the historian
+says, the more massive buildings remaining "have a strangely spectral
+character, like owls seen by daylight." Three old gates remain,
+including the Strand Gate, where King Edward nearly lost his life soon
+after the town was built. It appears that the horse on which he was
+riding, frightened by a windmill, leaped over the town-wall, and all
+gave up the king for dead. Luckily, however, he kept his saddle, and the
+horse, after slipping some distance down the incline, was checked, and
+Edward rode safely back through the gate. There is a fine church in
+Winchelsea&mdash;St. Thomas of Canterbury&mdash;within which are the tombs of
+Gervase Alard and his grandson Stephen. They were the most noted sailors
+of their time, and Gervase in 1300 was admiral of the fleet of the
+Cinque Ports, his grandson Stephen appearing as admiral in 1324. These
+were the earliest admirals known in England, the title, derived from the
+Arabic <i>amir</i>, having been imported from Sicily. Gervase was paid two
+shillings a day. At the house in Winchelsea called the "Friars" lived
+the noted highwaymen George and Joseph Weston, who during the last
+century plundered in all directions, and then atoned for it by the
+exercise of extensive charity in that town: one of them actually became
+a churchwarden.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>HASTINGS AND PEVENSEY.</h3>
+
+<p>The cliffs come out to the edge of the sea at Winchelsea, and it is a
+pleasant walk along them to Hastings, with its ruined castle, the last
+of the Cinque Ports. This was never as important a port as the others,
+but the neighboring Sussex forests made it a convenient place for
+shipbuilding. The castle ruins are the only antiques at Hastings, which
+has been gradually transformed into a modern watering-place in a pretty
+situation. Its eastern end, however, has undergone little transition,
+and is still filled with the old-fashioned black-timber houses of the
+fishermen. The battle of Hastings, whereby William the Conqueror planted
+his standard on English soil, was fought about seven miles inland. His
+ships debarked their troops all along this coast, while St. Val&eacute;ry
+harbor in France, from which he sailed, is visible in clear weather
+across the Channel. William himself landed at Pevensey, farther
+westward, where there is an old fortress of Roman origin located in the
+walls of the ancient British-Roman town that the heathen Saxons had
+long before attacked, massacring the entire population. Pevensey still
+presents within these walls the Norman castle of the Eagle Honour, named
+from the powerful house of Aquila once possessing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">[Pg 490]</a></span> it. The Bayeux
+Tapestry depicts the landing of William at Pevensey, which was a "limb"
+of Hastings. Its Roman name was Anderida, the walls enclosing an
+irregular oval, the castle within being a pentagon, with towers at the
+angles. Beyond it the Sussex coast juts out at the bold white chalk
+promontory of Beachy Head.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;">
+<a name="p490" id="p490"></a>
+<img src="images/p490.jpg" width="409" height="600" alt="HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A short distance inland from Pevensey is the great Sussex cattle-market
+at Hailsham, where the old Michelham Priory is used as a farm-house and
+its crypt as a dairy. Not far away is Hurstmonceux Castle, a relic of
+the times of Henry VI., and built entirely of brick, being probably the
+largest English structure of that material constructed since the Roman
+epoch. Only the shell of the castle remains, an interesting and
+picturesque specimen of the half fortress, half mansion of the latter
+days of feudalism. The main gateway on the southern front has flanking
+towers over eighty feet high, surmounted by watch-turrets from which the
+sea is visible. The walls are magnificently overgrown with ivy,
+contrasting beautifully with the red brick. Great trunks of ivy grow up
+from the dining-room, and all the inner courts are carpeted with green
+turf, with hazel-bushes appearing here and there among the ruined walls.
+A fine row of old chestnuts stands beyond the moat, and from the towers
+are distant views of Beachy Head, its white chalk-cliffs making one of
+the most prominent landmarks of the southern coast.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_491" id="Page_491">[Pg 491]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>BRIGHTON.</h3>
+
+<p>Westward of Beachy Head is the noted watering-place of this southern
+coast, Brighton, the favorite resort of the Londoners, it being but
+fifty-one miles south of the metropolis. This was scarcely known as a
+fashionable resort until about 1780, when George IV., then the Prince of
+Wales, became its patron. Taken altogether, its large size, fine
+buildings, excellent situation, and elaborate decorations make Brighton
+probably the greatest sea-coast watering-place in Europe. It stretches
+for over three miles along the Channel upon a rather low shore, though
+in some places the cliffs rise considerably above the beach. Almost the
+entire sea-front, especially to the eastward, is protected by a strong
+sea-wall of an average height of sixty feet and twenty-three feet thick
+at the base. This wall cost $500,000 to build, and it supports a
+succession of terraces available for promenade and roadway. In front the
+surf rolls in upon a rather steep pebbly beach, upon which are the
+bathing-machines and boats. Along the beach, and behind the sea-wall,
+Brighton has a grand drive, the Marine Parade, sixty feet wide,
+extending for three miles along the shore and in front of the buildings,
+with broad promenades on the sea-side ornamented with lawns and gardens,
+and on the other side a succession of houses of such grand construction
+as to resemble rows of palaces, built of the cream-colored Portland
+stone. The houses of the town extend far back on the hillsides and into
+the valleys, and the permanent population of 130,000 is largely
+augmented during the height of the season&mdash;October, November, and
+December. Enormous sums have been expended upon the decoration of this
+great resort, and its Marine Parade, when fashion goes there in the
+autumn, presents a grand scene. From this parade two great piers extend
+out into the water, and are used for promenades, being, like the entire
+city front, brilliantly illuminated at night. The eastern one is the
+Chain Pier, built in 1823 at a cost of $150,000, and extending eleven
+hundred and thirty-six feet into the sea. The West Pier, constructed
+about fifteen years ago, is somewhat broader, and stretches out eleven
+hundred and fifteen feet. Each of the piers expands into a wide platform
+at the outer end, that of the West Pier being one hundred and forty feet
+wide, and here bands play and there are brilliant illuminations. Both
+piers are of great strength, and only four cents admission is charged to
+them. Prince George built at Brighton a royal pavilion in imitation of
+the pagodas of the Indies, embosomed in trees and surrounded by gardens.
+This was originally the royal residence, but in 1850 the city bought it
+for $265,000 as a public assembly-room. The great attraction of
+Brighton, however, is the aquarium, the largest in the world, opened in
+1872. It is constructed in front of the Parade,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_492" id="Page_492">[Pg 492]</a></span> and, sunken below its
+level, stretches some fourteen hundred feet along the shore, and is one
+hundred feet wide, being surmounted by gardens and footwalks. It is
+set at this low level to facilitate the movement of the sea-water, and
+its design is to represent the fishes and marine animals as nearly as
+possible in their native haunts and habits, to do which, and not startle
+the fish, the visitors go through darkened passages, and are thus
+concealed from them, all the light coming in by refraction through the
+water. Their actions are thus natural, and they move about with perfect
+freedom, some of the tanks being of enormous size. Here swim schools of
+herring, mackerel, and porpoises as they do out at sea, the octopus
+gyrates his arms, and almost every fish that is known to the waters of
+that temperature is exhibited in thoroughly natural action. The tanks
+have been prepared most elaborately. The porpoises and larger fish have
+a range of at least one hundred feet, and rocks, savannahs, and
+everything else they are accustomed to are reproduced. The visitors walk
+through vaulted passages artistically decorated, and there is music to
+gladden the ear. This aquarium also shows the processes of
+fish-hatching, and has greatly increased the world's stock of knowledge
+as to fish-habits. The tanks hold five hundred thousand gallons of fresh
+and salt water.</p>
+
+<p>Back of Brighton are the famous South Downs, the chalk-hills of Sussex,
+which stretch over fifty miles parallel to the coast, and have a breadth
+of four or five miles, while they rise to an average height of five
+hundred feet, their highest point being Ditchling Beacon, north of
+Brighton, rising eight hundred and fifty-eight feet. They disclose
+picturesque scenery, and the railways from London wind through their
+valleys and dart into the tunnels under their hills, whose tops disclose
+the gyrating sails of an army of windmills, while over their slopes roam
+the flocks of well-tended sheep that ultimately become the the
+much-prized South Down mutton. The chalk-cliffs bordering the Downs
+slope to the sea, and in front are numerous little towns, for the whole
+coast is dotted with watering-places. A few miles east of Brighton is
+the port of New Haven on a much-travelled route across the Channel to
+Dieppe.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>WISTON PARK.</h3>
+
+<p>To the westward of Brighton and in the South Downs is the antique
+village of Steyning, near which is Rev. John Goring's home at Wiston
+Manor, an Elizabethan mansion of much historical interest and commanding
+views of extreme beauty. This is one of the most attractive places in
+the South Downs, a grand park with noble trees, herds of deer wandering
+over the grass, and the great ring of trees on top of Chanctonbury Hill,
+planted in 1760. Charles Goring, the father of the present owner,
+planted these trees in his early life,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_493" id="Page_493">[Pg 493]</a></span> and sixty-eight years
+afterwards, in 1828, he then being eighty-five years old, addressed
+these lines to the hill:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"How oft around thy Ring, sweet Hill, a boy I used to play,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And form my plans to plant thy top on some auspicious day!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How oft among thy broken turf with what delight I trod!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With what delight I placed those twigs beneath thy maiden sod!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And then an almost hopeless wish would creep within my breast:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Oh, could I live to see thy top in all its beauty dressed!'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That time's arrived; I've had my wish, and lived to eighty-five;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I'll thank my God, who gave such grace, as long as e'er I live;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Still when the morning sun in spring, whilst I enjoy my sight,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall gild thy new clothed Beech and sides, I'll view thee with delight."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The house originally belonged to Earl Godwine, and has had a strange
+history. One of its lords was starved to death at Windsor by King John;
+Llewellyn murdered another at a banquet; a third fell from his horse and
+was killed. Later, it belonged to the Shirleys, one of whom married a
+Persian princess; it has been held by the Gorings for a long period.
+This interesting old mansion has a venerable church adjoining it,
+surmounted by an ivy-clad tower. Chanctonbury Hill rises eight hundred
+and fourteen feet, and its ring of trees, which can be seen for many
+miles, is planted on a circular mound surrounded by a trench, an ancient
+fortification. From it there is a grand view over Surrey and Sussex and
+to the sea beyond&mdash;a view stretching from Windsor Castle to Portsmouth,
+a panorama of rural beauty that cannot be excelled.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>ARUNDEL CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p494-1" id="p494-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p494-1.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="ARUNDEL CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ARUNDEL CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p494-2" id="p494-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p494-2.jpg" width="500" height="388" alt="RUINS OF COWDRAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUINS OF COWDRAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little river Arun flows from the South Downs into the sea, and
+standing upon its banks is Arundel Castle, which gives the title of earl
+to the unfortunate infant son and heir of the Duke of Norfolk, whose
+blindness shows that even the greatest wealth and highest rank do not
+command all things in this world. A village of two steep streets mounts
+up the hill from the river-bank to the castle, which has unusual
+interest from its striking position and the long line of its noble
+owners&mdash;the Fitzalans and Howards. The extensive ramparts surround a
+ponderous keep and there are fine views in all directions. This is a
+favorite home of the Duke of Norfolk, and is surrounded by an extensive
+park. The tombs of his ancestors are in the old parish church of St.
+Nicholas, built in the fourteenth century, alongside which the duke has
+recently constructed a magnificent Roman Catholic church in Decorated
+Gothic at a cost of $500,000. The architect of this church was Mr.
+Hansom, who invented for the benefit of London the Hansom cab. Westward
+of Arundel is Chiches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">[Pg 494]</a></span>ter, distinguished for its cathedral and cross,
+the ancient Regnum of the Romans. The cathedral, recently restored, is
+peculiar from having five aisles with a long and narrow choir. Here is
+buried Richard Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel in the fourteenth century. This
+cathedral has a consistory court over the southern porch, reached by a
+spiral staircase, from which a sliding door opens into the Lollards'
+Dungeon. It has a detached campanile or bell-tower rising on the
+north-western side, the only example in England of such an attachment to
+a cathedral. The Chichester market-cross, standing at the intersection
+of four streets in the centre of the town, is four hundred years old. In
+front of Chichester, but nine miles away,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_495" id="Page_495">[Pg 495]</a></span> the low peninsula of Selsey
+Bill projects into the sea and is the resort of innumerable wild-fowl.
+Three miles out of town is Goodwood, where the races are held. Goodwood
+is the seat of the Duke of Richmond and Gordon, who has a fine park, and
+a valuable picture-gallery particularly rich in historical portraits. At
+Bigner, twelve miles from Chichester over the chalk-downs, are the
+remains of an extensive Roman villa, the buildings and pavements having
+been exhumed for a space of six hundred by three hundred and fifty feet.
+The Rother, a tributary of the Arun, flows down from Midhurst, where are
+the ruins of Cowdray, an ancient Tudor stronghold that was burned in
+1793, its walls being now finely overgrown with ivy. Dunford House, near
+Midhurst, was the estate presented to Richard Cobden by the "Anti-Corn
+Law League."</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SELBORNE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p495" id="p495"></a>
+<img src="images/p495.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="GILBERT WHITE&#39;S HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GILBERT WHITE&#39;S HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p496-1" id="p496-1"></a></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 363px;">
+<img src="images/p496-1.jpg" width="363" height="450" alt="SUN-DIAL IN GILBERT WHITE&#39;S GARDEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SUN-DIAL IN GILBERT WHITE&#39;S GARDEN.</span>
+</div>
+<p><br /><br />Crossing from Midhurst over the border into Hampshire, the village of
+Selborne is reached, one of the smallest but best known places in
+England from the care and minuteness with which Rev. Gilbert White has
+described it in his <i>Natural History of Selborne</i>. It is a short
+distance south-east of Alton and about fifty miles south-west of London,
+while beyond the village the chalk-hills rise to a height of three
+hundred feet, having a long hanging wood on the brow, known as the
+Hanger, made up mainly of beech trees. The village is a single
+straggling street three-quarters of a mile in length, in a sheltered
+valley and running parallel with the Hanger. At each end of Selborne
+there rises a small rivulet, the one to the south becoming a branch of
+the Arun and flowing into the Channel, while the other is a branch of
+the Wey, which falls into the Thames. This is the pleasant little place,
+located in a broad parish, that Gilbert White has made famous, writing
+of everything con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_496" id="Page_496">[Pg 496]</a></span>cerning it, but more especially of its natural history
+and peculiarities of soil, its trees, fruits, and animal life. He was
+born at Selborne in 1720, and died there in 1793, in his seventy-third
+year. He was the father of English natural history, for much of what he
+wrote was equally applicable to other parts of the kingdom. His modest
+house, now overgrown with ivy, is one of the most interesting buildings
+in the village, and in it they still keep his study about as he left it,
+with the close-fronted bookcase protected by brass wire-netting, to
+which hangs his thermometer just where he originally placed it. The
+house has been little if any altered since he was carried to his last
+resting-place. He is described by those who knew him as "a little thin,
+prim, upright man," a quiet, unassuming, but very observing country
+parson, who occupied his time in watching and recording the habits of
+his parishioners, quadruped as well as feathered. At the end of the
+garden is still kept his sun-dial, the lawn around which is one of the
+softest and most perfect grass carpets in England.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p496-2" id="p496-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p496-2.jpg" width="600" height="452" alt="SELBORNE CHURCH, FROM THE ALTON ROAD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SELBORNE CHURCH, FROM THE ALTON ROAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The pleasant little church over which White presided is as modest and
+almost as attractive as his house. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
+and measures fifty-four by forty-seven feet, being almost as broad as it
+is long, consisting of three aisles, and making no pretensions, he says,
+to antiquity. It was built in Henry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">[Pg 497]</a></span> VII.'s reign, is perfectly plain
+and unadorned, and without painted glass, carved work, sculpture, or
+tracery. Within it, however, are low, squat, thick pillars supporting
+the roof, which he thinks are Saxon and upheld the roof of a former
+church, which, falling into decay, was rebuilt on these massive props
+because their strength had preserved them from the injuries of time.
+They support blunt Gothic arches. He writes that he remembers when the
+beams of the middle aisle were hung with garlands in honor of young
+women of the parish who died virgins. Within the chancel is his memorial
+on the wall, and he rests in an unassuming grave in the churchyard. The
+belfry is a square embattled tower forty-five feet high, built at the
+western end, and he tells pleasantly how the three old bells were cast
+into four in 1735, and a parishioner added a fifth one at his own
+expense, marking its arrival by a high festival in the village,
+"rendered more joyous by an order from the donor that the treble bell
+should be fixed bottom upward in the ground and filled with punch, of
+which all present were permitted to partake." The porch of the church to
+the southward is modern and shelters a fine Gothic doorway, whose
+folding doors are evidently of ancient construction. The vicarage stands
+alongside to the westward, an old Elizabethan house.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;">
+<a name="p497" id="p497"></a>
+<img src="images/p497.jpg" width="435" height="550" alt="ROCKY LANE LEADING TO ALTON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROCKY LANE LEADING TO ALTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;">
+<a name="p498" id="p498"></a>
+<img src="images/p498.jpg" width="365" height="500" alt="THE WISHING STONE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE WISHING STONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the singular things in Selborne to which White calls attention are
+two rocky hollow lanes, one of which leads to Alton. These roads have,
+by the traffic of ages and the running of water, been worn down through
+the first stratum of freestone and partly through the second, so that
+they look more like water-courses than roads. In many places they have
+thus been sunken as much as eighteen feet beneath the level of the
+fields alongside, so that torrents rush along them in rainy weather,
+with miniature cascades on either hand that are frozen into icicles in
+winter. These lanes, thus rugged and gloomy, affright the timid, but,
+gladly writes our author, they "delight the naturalist with their
+various botany." The old mill at Selborne, with its dilapidated
+windsails, presents a picturesque appearance, and up on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_498" id="Page_498">[Pg 498]</a></span> the
+chalk-hills, where there is a far-away view over the pleasant vale
+beyond, is the Wishing Stone, erected on a little mound among the trees.
+All these things attracted our author's close attention, and as his
+parish was over thirty miles in circumference, as may be supposed his
+investigations covered a good deal of ground. His work is chiefly
+written in the form of a series of letters to friends, and he
+occasionally digresses over the border into the neighboring parishes to
+speak of their peculiarities or attractions. They all had in his day
+little churches, and the parish church of Greatham, not far from
+Selborne, is a specimen of the antique construction of the diminutive
+chapels that his ancestors handed down to their children for places of
+worship, each surrounded by its setting of ancient gravestones. The
+<i>History of Selborne</i> shows how the country parson in the olden time,
+whose flock was small, parish isolated, and visitors few, amused
+himself; but he has left an enduring monument that grows the more
+valuable as the years advance. In fact, it is a text-book of natural
+history; and so complete have been his observations that he not only
+describes all the plants and animals, birds, rocks, soils, and
+buildings, but he also has space to devote to the cats of Selborne, and
+to tell how they prowl in the roadway and mount the tiled roofs to
+capture the chimney swallows. How he loved his home is shown in the poem
+with which his work begins. We quote the opening stanza, and also some
+other characteristic portions of this ode, which describes the
+attractions of Selborne in the last century:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"See Selborne spreads her boldest beauties round,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The varied valley, and the mountain ground</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wildly majestic: what is all the pride</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_499" id="Page_499">[Pg 499]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of flats with loads of ornament supplied?</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unpleasing, tasteless, impotent expense,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Compared with Nature's rude magnificence.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Oft on some evening, sunny, soft, and still,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Muse shall hand thee to the beech-grown hill,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To spend in tea the cool, refreshful hour,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where nods in air the pensile, nest-like bower;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or where the Hermit hangs his straw-clad cell,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emerging gently from the leafy dell:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Romantic spot! from whence in prospect lies</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whate'er of landscape charms our feasting eyes;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pointed spire, the hall, the pasture-plain,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The russet fallow, and the golden grain;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The breezy lake that sheds a gleaming light,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till all the fading picture fails the sight....</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Now climb the steep, drop now your eye below,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where round the verdurous village orchards blow;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There, like a picture, lies my lowly seat,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A rural, sheltered, unobserved retreat.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Me far above the rest, Selbornian scenes.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pendant forest and the mountain-greens,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Strike with delight: ... There spreads the distant view</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That gradual fades, till sunk in misty blue."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;">
+<a name="p499" id="p499"></a>
+<img src="images/p499.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="GREATHAM CHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GREATHAM CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>WINCHESTER.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 536px;">
+<a name="p500" id="p500"></a>
+<img src="images/p500.jpg" width="536" height="600" alt="CARDINAL BEAUFORT&#39;S GATE AND ANCIENT BREWERY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CARDINAL BEAUFORT&#39;S GATE AND ANCIENT BREWERY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About sixteen miles south-west of Selborne is the chief city of
+Hampshire and one of the great historical cities of the
+realm&mdash;Winchester&mdash;built on the side of a chalk-hill rising from the
+valley of the Itchen, a stream that was Izaak Walton's favorite
+fishing-ground. This was the Roman Venta Belgarum, and was made an
+episcopal see in the seventh century. Nothing remains of the earlier
+cathedral, which was replaced by the present structure, begun in the
+eleventh century, but not finished until the fifteenth. Winchester
+Cathedral is five hundred and sixty feet long, and its nave is in the
+highest degree impressive, being the longest in England, extending two
+hundred and sixty-five feet. The western front has recently been
+restored. Within the cathedral are many noted tombs, including that of
+William Rufus, and above the altar is West's painting of the "Raising of
+Lazarus." In the presbytery are six mortuary chests containing the
+remains of kings and bishops of the ancient Saxon kingdom of Wessex. St.
+Swithin's shrine was the treasure of Winchester: he was bishop in the
+ninth century and the especial patron of the city and cathedral.
+Originally interred in the churchyard, his remains were removed to the
+golden shrine given by King Edgar, though tradition says this was
+delayed by forty days of rain, which is the foundation of the popular
+belief<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_500" id="Page_500">[Pg 500]</a></span> in the continuance of wet weather after St. Swithin's Day, July
+15. In the Lady Chapel, Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain in
+1554, and the chair on which she sat is still preserved there. The
+cathedral close is extremely picturesque, surrounded by houses of
+considerable antiquity. Among the prelates of Winchester were William of
+Wykeham and Cardinal Beaufort: the former founded St. Mary's College
+there in the fourteenth century&mdash;a fine structure, with the picturesque
+ruins of the old palace of the bishops, Wolvesey Castle, near by; the
+latter, in the fifteenth century, built Cardinal Beaufort's Tower and
+Gateway in the southern suburbs, on the Southampton road, when he
+revived the foundation of St. Cross. This noble gateway, when approached
+from the city, is seen through the foliage, with a background of quaint
+high chimneys, church, and green leaves. The river Itchen flows
+alongside the road, half hidden among the trees. The St. Cross Hospital,
+with the thirteen brethren still living there in their black gowns and
+silver crosses, gives a vivid picture of ancient England. Adjoining the
+gateway on the left hand is the brewery, formerly known as the "Hundred
+Men's Hall," because a hundred of the poorest men in Winchester were
+daily entertained there at dinner, and, as the repast was provided on a
+bountiful scale, the guests always had ample provisions to carry home to
+their families. The tower and surrounding buildings are excellent
+examples of the domestic architecture of the fifteenth century. In this
+hospital the custom still prevails of giving the wayfarer a horn of ale
+and dole of bread, the ale being brewed on the premises and of the same
+kind made there centuries ago. The old West Gate of Winchester, the only
+survivor of the city's four gates, is a well-preserved specimen of the
+military architecture of the time of Henry III. Winchester Castle was
+originally built by William the Norman, and continued a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_501" id="Page_501">[Pg 501]</a></span> residence of
+the kings until Henry III., but of it little remains beyond the hall and
+some subterranean fragments. Here hangs on the wall what is said to be
+the top of King Arthur's round table. There is a beautiful cross in
+Winchester, recently restored, and originally erected on the High Street
+by Cardinal Beaufort, who seems to have spent much of his vast and
+ill-gotten wealth in splendid architectural works. Shakespeare
+introduces him in <i>Henry VI.</i>, and in the scene that closes his career
+truthfully depicts him:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If thou be'st death, I'll give thee England's treasure,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Enough to purchase such another island.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So thou wilt let me live and feel no pain."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE NEW FOREST.</h3>
+
+<p>The Itchen flows into the estuary of Southampton Water, and from its
+western shores spreads far away the domain of the New Forest, stretching
+down into the south-western part of Hampshire. This is a remnant of the
+forests that once covered the greater part of the island, and is the
+most extensive left in the English lowlands. It was made a royal forest
+by William the Norman, and thus continues to the present time, the
+largest tract of uncultivated land and one of the finest examples of
+woodland scenery in the kingdom. It covers almost the whole surface
+between Southampton Water and the Avon, which is the western border of
+Hampshire, but in recent years its area has been gradually curtailed,
+though its extent has never been accurately measured. Stretching about
+fifteen miles from east to west and twenty miles from north-west to
+south-east, it includes about ninety-one thousand acres, of which
+twenty-six thousand belong to private landowners, two thousand are the
+absolute property of the Crown, and the remaining sixty-three thousand
+acres have common and other rights due to a large number of tenants,
+though the title is in the Crown. About twenty-five thousand acres are
+covered with timber, but only five thousand acres of this is old timber,
+the remainder having been planted with trees within the last two hundred
+years. The surface is gently undulating, becoming hilly in the northern
+parts; the soil is usually arid, and the scenery discloses wide expanses
+of heathery moor, often marshy in the lower grounds, with here and there
+copses that gradually thicken into woodland as the true forest district
+is approached. The chief trees are oak and beech, which attain to noble
+proportions, while there are occasional tufts of holly and undergrowth.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p502" id="p502"></a>
+<img src="images/p502.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="NEW FOREST, FROM BRAMBLE HILL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NEW FOREST, FROM BRAMBLE HILL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p503" id="p503"></a>
+<img src="images/p503.jpg" width="500" height="442" alt="RUFUS&#39;S STONE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUFUS&#39;S STONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Almost in the centre of the forest is the village of Lyndhurst, regarded
+as the best point of departure for its survey&mdash;a hamlet with one long
+street and houses dotted about on the flanks of a hill, the summit of
+which is adorned by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502">[Pg 502]</a></span> a newly-built church of red brick with bath-stone
+dressings. Within this church is Sir Frederick Leighton's fresco of the
+"Wise and Foolish Virgins." In the ponderous "Queen's House," near the
+church, lives the chief official of the forest, and here are held the
+courts. Formerly, this official was always a prince royal and known as
+the lord warden, but now his powers are vested in the "First
+Commissioner of Woods and Forests:" here the poacher was in former days
+severely punished. The New Forest was originally not only a place for
+the king's pleasure in the chase, but it also furnished timber for the
+royal navy, though this fell into disuse in the Civil War. Subsequently
+parts were replanted, and William III. planted by degrees six thousand
+acres with trees. The great storm of 1703 uprooted four thousand fine
+trees, and then again there was partial neglect, and it was not until
+within a half century that a serious effort was made to fully restore
+the timber. There have now been ten thousand acres planted: a nursery
+for young trees has been established, and about seven hundred acres are
+annually planted, the young oaks being set out between Scotch firs,
+whose more rapid growth protects the saplings from the gales, and when
+they are able to stand alone the firs are thinned out. About four miles
+north of Lyndhurst and beyond Minstead is Rufus's Stone. Around Minstead
+Manor the land has long been enclosed and cultivated, and looks as
+little like a wild forest as can be imagined, while northward the ground
+rises to the top of Stony Cross Hill, disclosing one of the finest views
+in this region, looking down over a wide valley, with cultivated fields
+on its opposite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">[Pg 503]</a></span> sides and woodland beyond, gently shelving to
+Southampton Water, of which occasional glimpses may be had. There is an
+abundance of woodland everywhere, checquered by green lawns. At our back
+is the enclosed park, within which some intrenchments mark the site of
+Castle Malwood, where tradition says that William Rufus passed the night
+previous to his death. The king just before dawn aroused his attendants
+by a sudden outcry, and rushing into the chamber they found him in such
+agitation that they remained there until morning. He had dreamed he was
+being bled, and that the stream from his veins was so copious that it
+rose to the sky, obscuring the sun. The daylight also brought other
+omens: a foreign monk at the court had been dreaming, and saw the king
+enter a church, seize the rood, and rend it with his teeth; the holy
+image at first submitted to the insult, then struck down the king, who,
+while prostrate, vomited fire and smoke which masked the stars. The
+king, whose courage had returned with daylight, made light of the monk's
+tale, though he did not go to hunt as usual that morning, but after
+dinner, having taken liberal drafts of wine, rode out with a small
+party, including Walter Tyril, lord of Pontoise, lately arrived from
+Normandy. They hunted throughout the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_504" id="Page_504">[Pg 504]</a></span> afternoon, and near sunset the
+king and Tyril found themselves alone in a glade below the castle. A
+stag bounded by, and the king unsuccessfully shot at him; then another
+ran past, when Tyril shot his arrow, bidden, as tradition says, by the
+king "in the devil's name." The arrow struck William Rufus full in the
+chest, and he dropped lifeless. Tyril, putting spurs to his horse,
+galloped westward to a ford across the Avon into Dorsetshire. Soon after
+a charcoal-burner named Purkis, whose descendants still live in the New
+Forest, came past, found the king's body, and, placing it on his cart,
+bore it, still bleeding, to Winchester. Tyril's arrow had glanced from a
+tree, which long existed, but, decaying centuries afterward, Rufus's
+Stone was set up to mark the spot. This became mutilated, and has been
+enclosed in an iron casing, with copies of the original inscriptions on
+the outside. It is now a cast-iron pillar about five feet high, with a
+grating at the top, through which may be seen the stone within. It
+stands on a gentle slope, not quite at the bottom of the valley, with
+pretty scenery around. Tyril got his horse shod at the Avon ford, for
+which offence the blacksmith afterwards paid an annual fine to the
+Crown. He was not very hotly pursued, however, and made his escape into
+Normandy, where he sturdily denied that the arrow was shot by him at
+all, laying the blame to a conspiracy of the king's enemies, of whom he
+had many.</p>
+
+<p>Southward from Lyndhurst the road goes over undulating ground and
+through magnificent oaks and beeches to Brockenhurst, past a heronry at
+Vinney Ridge. This section contains some of the finest trees in the
+forest, with plenty of dense holly and an occasional yew. The ground
+discloses the bracken fern, and gray lichen clings thickly to the trunks
+and branches of the trees. The woodland views along this road are
+splendid, and only need the wild animals of a former era to bring back
+the forest-life of medi&aelig;val times. Off to the eastward, standing on the
+little river Exe, are the foliage-clad ruins of Beaulieu Abbey, founded
+by King John, and now held by the Duke of Buccleuch, who has a mansion
+near by. Here was buried John's mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and here
+came the widow of Warwick the King-maker, after the battle of Barnet,
+for sanctuary. Perkin Warbeck when defeated also took refuge at
+Beaulieu, where he surrendered on promise of mercy. The abbey is a wreck
+now, for after its dissolution we are told that its stones "went to
+build Henry VIII.'s martello tower at Hurst, and its lead to repair
+Calshot" on Southampton Water, while the gate-house serves as the
+entrance to the modern ducal mansion, and the refectory is the parish
+church. Here are the tombs of Mary Dore and Mary Do. The former was a
+noted witch, "who could transform herself into a hare or cat, and
+afflict or cure all the cattle in the neighborhood." The latter is
+credited with more celestial attributes in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505">[Pg 505]</a></span> the obituary that survives
+her than were allotted her unfortunate companion; and the acrostic
+inscription on her tomb is often quoted:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Merciless fate (to our greate griefe and woe)</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A prey hath here made of our deere Moll Do,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rapte up in duste and hid in earthe and claye,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet live her soule and virtues now and aye;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Death is a debt all owe which must be paide</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh that she knew, and of it was not afraide!"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p505" id="p505"></a>
+<img src="images/p505.jpg" width="500" height="498" alt="BROCKENHURST CHURCH, WITH THE FAMOUS YEW AND OAK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BROCKENHURST CHURCH, WITH THE FAMOUS YEW AND OAK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the westward of Beaulieu is Brockenhurst, a pretty forest village,
+along whose main street we are told the deer formerly galloped on a
+winter's night, to the great excitement of all the dogs therein. The
+forest almost blends with the village-green, and on a low artificial
+mound stands its church, with traces of almost every style of
+architecture since the Conquest, and guarded by a famous yew and oak. At
+Boldre, near Brockenhurst, lived Rev. W. Gilpin, the vicar of the
+parish, the author of several works on sylvan scenery, and reputed to be
+the original of the noted <i>Dr. Syntax</i>, who made such a humorous "Tour
+in Search of the Picturesque." He now lies at rest under a maple
+alongside his church, in which Southey was married. Ringwood is the
+chief town of the western forest-border upon the level plain that forms
+the Avon Valley where Tyril escaped across the ford. It is not a very
+interesting place. A little way up the river, near Horton, "King
+Monmouth" was captured after Sedgemoor, and from Ringwood he wrote the
+abject letters begging his life from King James, who turned a deaf ear
+to all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_506" id="Page_506">[Pg 506]</a></span> entreaty. Alice Lisle, who was judicially murdered by Judge
+Jeffreys for sheltering two refugees from that battle, also lived at
+Moyle Court, near Ringwood. The chief inn is the "White Hart," named in
+memory of Henry VII.'s hunt in the New Forest, where the game, a white
+hart, showed fine running throughout the day, and ultimately stood at
+bay in a meadow near the village, when, at the intercession of the
+ladies, the hounds were called off, the hart secured, given a gold
+collar, and taken to Windsor. The inn where the king partook of
+refreshments that day had its sign changed to the White Hart. It was at
+Bisterne, below Ringwood, that Madonie of Berkeley Castle slew the
+dragon, for which feat King Edward IV. knighted him&mdash;a tale that the
+incredulous will find confirmed by the deed still preserved in Berkeley
+Castle which records the event, confers the knighthood, and gives him
+permission to wear the dragon as his badge.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>CHRISTCHURCH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p506" id="p506"></a>
+<img src="images/p506.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="THE PRIORY, FROM THE QUAY, AND PLACE MILLS,
+CHRISTCHURCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE PRIORY, FROM THE QUAY, AND PLACE MILLS,
+CHRISTCHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<a name="p507" id="p507"></a><a name="p508" id="p508"></a>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p507/508">
+<tr>
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p507.jpg" width="500" height="540"
+ alt="CHRISTCHURCH." /><br />
+ </td>
+
+<td align='center'><img src="images/p508.jpg" width="520" height="540"
+ alt="OLD NORMAN HOUSE AND VIEW FROM THE MINSTER,
+CHRISTCHURCH." /><br />
+ </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">CHRISTCHURCH.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">OLD NORMAN HOUSE AND VIEW FROM THE MINSTER,
+CHRISTCHURCH.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p>From Brockenhurst the Lymington River flows southward out of the New
+Forest into the Solent, across which is the Isle of Wight, steamers
+connecting Lymington at the mouth of the river with Yarmouth on the
+island. About twelve miles westward from Lymington is Christchurch, at
+the confluence of the Avon and Stour Rivers, which here form the estuary
+known as Christchurch Bay. The Avon flows down past Ringwood on the
+western verge of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_507" id="Page_507">[Pg 507]</a></span> the New Forest, its lower valley being a wide grassy
+trough in a rolling plateau of slight elevation. The moors, with many
+parts too arid for cultivation, extend to the sea, having glens here and
+there whose sandy slopes are often thickly wooded, and whose beds are
+traversed by the "bournes" that give names to so many localities in this
+region. Along all the sea-border fashionable watering-places are
+springing up, which enjoy views over the water to the distant
+chalk-downs of the Isle of Wight, one of the best being that from
+Boscombe Chine. Through this land the Avon flows, and the Stour enters
+it from the west, with the ancient town of Christchurch standing on the
+broad angle between them. It is of Roman origin, and the remains of a
+British castle crown the neighboring promontory of Hengistbury Head. The
+chief attraction is the magnificent Priory Church, founded before the
+Norman Conquest, but rebuilt afterwards and dedicated to the Holy
+Trinity. The ancient town was known as Twynham from the two rivers, and
+it then became Christchurch-at-Twynham, but the original name was
+ultimately dropped. It was a royal demesne in Edward I.'s reign, and
+Edward III. granted it to the Earl of Salisbury, whose countess was the
+heroine of the institution of the Order of the Garter. It is a sleepy,
+old-fashioned place, with little of interest excepting the Priory Church
+and the castle. The square church-tower rises high above the Avon, a
+landmark from afar, its mass of gray masonry catching the eye from away
+over the sea. The church is of large dimensions, cruciform in plan, with
+short transepts, and a Lady chapel having the unusual peculiarity of an
+upper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508">[Pg 508]</a></span> story. It is about three hundred and ten feet long, with the
+tower at the western end, and a large northern porch. The oldest part of
+the church was built in the twelfth century by Flambard, Bishop of
+Durham, who was granted this priory by William Rufus. Subsequently, he
+fell into disfavor, and the priory became a college of the Augustinians.
+Only the nave and transepts are left of his Norman church, the remainder
+being of later construction. The north porch, which has an extremely
+rich Decorated doorway, is of unusual size, having an upper chamber, and
+dating from the thirteenth century. The nave is of great beauty, being
+separated from the aisles by massive semicircular arches, rich in
+general effect, with a triforium above consisting of a double arcade,
+making it worthy to compete with the finest naves in England. The
+clerestory is more modern, being of Pointed Gothic, and the aisles are
+also of later construction: the northern aisle contains a beam to which
+is attached the legend that the timber was drawn out as if an elastic
+material "by the touch of a strange workman who wrought without wages
+and never spoke a word with his fellows." The western tower is of
+Perpendicular architecture, added by the later builders, and beneath it
+is the handsome marble monument erected to the memory of the poet
+Shelley, drowned at Spezzia in 1822: his family lived near Christchurch.
+The tower contains a peal of eight bells, two of them ancient, and from
+the belfry there is a noble view over the valleys of the two rivers, the
+distant moorlands and woods of the New Forest, the estuary winding
+seaward and glittering in the sun, while beneath are the houses and
+gardens of the town spread out as on a map. Among the many monuments in
+the church is that to Margaret, Countess of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_509" id="Page_509">[Pg 509]</a></span> Salisbury, the last of the
+line who possessed the priory, and the closing heiress of the race of
+Plantagenets. She was the mother of Cardinal Pole, who upheld the cause
+of the pope against Henry VIII., and she was a prisoner in the Tower,
+held as hostage for his good behavior. At seventy years of age she was
+ordered out for execution, but refused to lay her head upon the block,
+saying, "So should traitors do, and I am none." Then, the historian
+says, "turning her gray head in every way, she bade the executioner, if
+he would have her head, to get it as he could, so that he was
+constrained to fetch it off slovenly." She was beheaded in May, 1541,
+being too near in kinship to the throne to be allowed to live. Little is
+left of the ancient priory buildings beyond the ruins of the old Norman
+gateway. The castle of Christchurch has also almost disappeared, leaving
+only massive fragments of the wall of the keep crowning a mound. It was
+of slight historical importance; and a more perfect relic is the ruin of
+the ancient Norman house standing near by on the bank of the Stour, an
+ivy-clad shell of masonry still showing the staircase and interior
+apartments. This crumbling memorial of the twelfth century was the home
+of Baldwin de Redvers, then Earl of Devon.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>SOUTHAMPTON.</h3>
+
+<p>Crossing over the New Forest back to the Southampton Water on its
+eastern border, the river Itchen debouches on the farther shore near the
+head of the estuary, making a peninsula; and here is the celebrated port
+of Southampton, located between the river Itchen and the river Test, and
+having an excellent harbor. The Southampton Water extends from the Red
+Bridge, a short distance above the city, to Calshot Castle, about seven
+miles below, and varies in breadth from a mile and a half to two miles,
+the entrance being well protected by the Isle of Wight, which gives the
+harbor the peculiarity of four tides in the twenty-four hours&mdash;double
+the usual number, owing to the island intercepting a portion of the
+tidal wave in its flow both ways along the Channel. Southampton comes
+down from the Romans, and remains of their camp, Clausentum, now known
+as Bittern Manor, are still to be seen in the suburbs, while parts of
+the Saxon walls and two of the old gates of the town are yet preserved.
+The Danes sacked it in the tenth century, and afterwards it was the
+occasional residence of Canute, its shore being said to be the scene of
+his rebuke to his courtiers when he commanded the tide to cease
+advancing and it disobeyed. Southampton was destroyed by foreign
+invaders in the fourteenth century, and rebuilt by Richard II. and
+strongly fortified. For many years it was a watering-place, but within
+half a century extensive docks have been built, and it has become a
+great seaport, being the point of departure for steamship-lines to all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510">[Pg 510]</a></span>
+parts of the world, especially the East Indies and America, as it is but
+seventy miles south-west of London, and thus shortens the sea voyage for
+trade from the metropolis. The harbor is a fine one, the channel being
+deep and straight, and affording good anchorage. In exploring the
+antiquities of Southampton the visitor will be attracted by an ancient
+house of the Plantagenet period located on St. Michael's Square, said to
+have been occupied by Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and the remains of
+the town-walls. The old Bargate in these walls crosses the High Street,
+dividing it into "Above Bar" and "Below Bar." In the ancient walls are
+the antique towers known as Arundel Tower and Catch-Cold Tower, and also
+a house (one of the oldest in England) built anterior to the twelfth
+century, and known as King John's Palace. Southampton Park, called the
+Common, is a pretty enclosure of three hundred and sixty acres just
+north of the city. The picturesque ruins of Netley Abbey are about three
+miles south of the city, and near them is the Royal Victoria Hospital,
+established just after the Crimean War, both of them on the eastern bank
+of Southampton Water.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>PORTSMOUTH.</h3>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p510" id="p510"></a>
+<img src="images/p510.jpg" width="500" height="376" alt="PORTSMOUTH POINT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTSMOUTH POINT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="p511" id="p511"></a>
+<img src="images/p511.jpg" width="500" height="498" alt="H.M.S. &quot;VICTORY.&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">H.M.S. &quot;VICTORY.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>We will follow Southampton Water down to its entrance, where the two
+broad channels dividing the Isle of Wight from the mainland&mdash;the Solent
+and Spithead&mdash;join, and at the point jutting out on the western angle
+pass Calshot Castle, founded for coast-defence by Henry VIII., and now
+occupied by the coast-guard. Skirting along Spithead, which is a
+prolongation of the Southampton Water, without change of direction, at
+about twenty miles from Southampton we round Gillkicker Point, forming
+the western boundary of Portsmouth harbor. Here is Gosport, and east of
+it is Portsea Island, about four miles long and two and a half miles
+broad, on which Portsmouth is located, with its suburbs known as
+Portsea, Landport, and Southsea. Portsmouth is on the south-western part
+of the island, separated from Portsea by a small stream to the
+northward, both being united in a formidable fortress whose works would
+require thirteen thousand men to man, though the ordinary garrison is
+about twenty-five hundred. The royal dockyard, covering one hundred and
+twenty acres, is at Portsea, and at Gosport,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_511" id="Page_511">[Pg 511]</a></span> opposite, are the
+storehouses, the channel between them, which extends for several miles
+between Portsea Island and the mainland, gradually widening until it
+attains three miles' breadth at its northern extremity. This channel
+affords anchorage for the largest vessels, and is defended by Southsea
+Castle on the eastern side and Moncton Fort on the western side of the
+entrance into Spithead, where the roadstead is sheltered by the Isle of
+Wight. Portsmouth was a port in the days of the Saxons, who in the sixth
+century called it Portsmuthe. It fitted out a fleet of nine ships to aid
+King Alfred defeat the Danes, and its vessels ineffectually endeavored
+to intercept the Normans when they landed near Hastings. In the
+fourteenth century the French burned the town, but were afterwards
+defeated with heavy loss. Ever since then the fortifications have been
+gradually improved, until now it is one of the strongest British
+fortresses. The Duke of Buckingham was murdered here in 1628, and part
+of the house where he was killed still remains. In 1757, Admiral Byng
+was executed here, and in 1782 the ship "Royal George" was sunk with
+Admiral Kempenfelt and "twice four hundred men." The town of Portsmouth
+contains little that is attractive beyond its ancient church of St.
+Thomas &agrave; Becket, built in the reign of Henry II., and containing on its
+register the record of the marriage of Charles II. with Catharine of
+Braganza in 1662. This marriage took place in the garrison chapel, which
+was originally the hospital of St. Nicholas, founded in the time of
+Henry III. The chief place of interest is the dockyard at Portsea, the
+entrance to which, by the Common Hard, or terrace fronting the harbor,
+bears the date of 1711. Here they have many relics of famous ships, and
+also vast numbers of boats, and all kinds of materials for building
+war-vessels, especially iron and armor-plated ships, with the docks and
+slips for their construction. Off the dockyard lies at anchor the most
+famous of the "wooden walls of old England," the "Victory," the ship in
+which Nelson died at Trafalgar, then the most powerful vessel of the
+British navy. Near her is anchored another celebrated man-of-war, the
+port-admiral's flag-ship, the "Duke of Wellington." The stores across
+the harbor at Gosport<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512">[Pg 512]</a></span> are on a large scale, and are known as the Royal
+Clarence Victualling Yard. In the southern part of Gosport is the Haslar
+Hospital for sick and disabled sailors and soldiers. From Gillkicker
+Point beyond, a sandbank stretches about three miles out from the shore
+in a south-easterly direction, and is called the Spit. This gives the
+name to the roadstead of Spithead, west of which is the quarantine
+station of Motherbank. This is the great roadstead of the British navy,
+and in the miles of docks, sheds, forges, basins, and shops of
+Portsmouth harbor that weary the tourist, who thinks he ought to
+dutifully go through them, are fashioned many of the monster iron-clads
+that modern improvements have made necessary in naval architecture.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>THE ISLE OF WIGHT.</h3>
+
+
+<p><a name="p512" id="p512"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 4em;">HARBOR OF COWES.</span></p>
+<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p512.jpg); height: 100%;">
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:250px;"> </div>
+<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:100px; height:70px;"> </div>
+
+<p>Crossing over the narrow strait&mdash;for there is ample opportunity by
+several routes&mdash;we will complete this English tour by a journey beyond
+the Solent and Spithead to the Isle of Wight. This island, formed like
+an irregular lozenge about twenty-two miles long and thirteen broad, is
+rich in scientific and historical associations, and a marvel of climate
+and scenery. Its name of Wight is said to preserve the British word
+"gwyth," the original name having been "Ynys-gwyth," or the "Channel
+Island." The Roman name was "Vectis," Rome having conquered it in
+Claudius' time. The English descended upon it in the early part of the
+sixth century, and captured its chief stronghold, Whitgarasbyrg, now
+Carisbrooke Castle. It afterwards became part of the Saxon kingdom of
+Wessex, and St. Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, is said to have converted
+its people to Christianity. Then the Danes devastated it, and after the
+Norman Conquest it was subdued by Fitzosborne, Earl of Hereford, whose
+descendants ruled it until Edward I.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_513" id="Page_513">[Pg 513]</a></span> recovered the wardenship for the
+Crown. Richard II. granted it to the Earl of Salisbury, and Henry VI.
+created the Earl of Warwick, Henry Beauchamp, "king of the Isle of
+Wight," crowning him with his own hands. The title reverted to the Crown
+in the time of Henry VII. The French several times invaded the island,
+and it was the intention of the leaders of the Spanish Armada to capture
+and use it as a base for operations against England, but the English
+fleet harassed them so badly that they had to sail past without
+effecting a landing. In the Civil War the Isle of Wight made a
+considerable figure.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 578px;">
+<a name="p513-1" id="p513-1"></a>
+<img src="images/p513-1.jpg" width="578" height="600" alt="THE NEEDLES, FROM ALUM BAY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE NEEDLES, FROM ALUM BAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="p513-2" id="p513-2"></a>
+<img src="images/p513-2.jpg" width="650" height="280" alt="YARMOUTH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">YARMOUTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p514" id="p514"></a>
+<img src="images/p514.jpg" width="600" height="453" alt="OSBORNE HOUSE, FROM THE SEA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OSBORNE HOUSE, FROM THE SEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beginning at the western end of the lozenge-shaped island, beyond which
+are the Needles, the entrance to the Solent is found defended by
+successive batteries on every headland, with Hurst Castle on the
+Hampshire shore. High Down, with its fine chalk-cliffs, rises six
+hundred feet above the sea, being haunted by numerous sea-gulls, and
+under it is Scratchell's Cave, a singular recess in the rock accessible
+only by boat. Sheltered by the bold headland is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_514" id="Page_514">[Pg 514]</a></span> Alum Bay, with its
+tinted sands, gray, buff, and red, and from Headon Hill, its eastern
+boundary, the coast stretches away to Yarmouth, a little town on the
+Solent, where are the remains of one of the defensive blockhouses built
+by Henry VIII. The shores of the strait trend to the north-east, with
+pleasant views across on the coast of Hampshire, until the northernmost
+point of the Isle of Wight is reached, where its chief stream, the
+Medina, flows into the strait through an estuary about five hundred
+yards wide. Here is Cowes, divided by the river into the West Cow and
+the East Cow, the plural form of the name being modern. It is a popular
+bathing-place, but gets the most fame from being the headquarters of the
+Royal Yacht Club; their house is the old castle at the Medina entrance,
+built by Henry VIII., it is said, with portions of the masonry of
+Beaulieu Abbey. The harbor, at the proper season, is usually dotted with
+yachts. There is steam communication with the mainland, and a railway
+runs inland to Newport, the chief town of the island. Near East Cowes is
+Whippingham, which was the birthplace of Dr. Arnold, the famous
+head-master of Rugby School. Ascending the Medina, the beautiful park
+and gardens of Osborne House, the marine residence of Queen Victoria,
+border<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_515" id="Page_515">[Pg 515]</a></span> its eastern margin. This was the ancient manor of Austerbourne,
+and its owner in the Civil War buried all his money and plate in an
+adjoining wood, called the Money Copse, so as to preserve it. When
+peaceful days came back he went to get it, but found he had concealed it
+so thoroughly that it could not be recovered. The queen bought the
+estate in 1844, and the plain mansion was extended into an elegant
+marine villa just back from the sea-coast. It was the queen's childhood
+attachment to the locality that made her settle here, for when a young
+princess she had passed many pleasant days in the neighboring Norris
+Castle.</p>
+
+<p>East of the Medina the coast trends to the south-east, the shores being
+lined by fine villas surrounded with highly-cultivated grounds; indeed,
+the coast of the strait seems like an extended park. Here, opposite
+Portsmouth, is the famous watering-place of Ryde, in a beautiful
+situation, and with railways running across the island to Sandown and
+Ventnor. The land steeply rises from the sea, with the town stretching
+along its slope, a panorama of villas whose trees grow down to the
+water's edge. It is an ancient town, having existed in the reign of
+Richard II., when the French burned it, but none of the present
+buildings are of much antiquity, it having in later years been gradually
+converted into a fashionable watering-place. The pier is the popular
+promenade, and the Spithead roadstead in front is closely connected with
+English naval history. It was here that the "Royal George" went down on
+a calm day and drowned her admiral and eight hundred men: she was
+careened over, the better to make some repairs, and, a squall striking
+her, it is said the heavy guns slid down to the lower side and tipped
+the vessel over, when she quickly filled and sank. Here also, in 1797,
+was the great mutiny in Lord Bridport's fleet, the sailors, when the
+signal to weigh anchor was given, declining to do it until their just
+demands were granted; the mutiny was suppressed and the leaders severely
+punished. All the neighboring shores bristle with forts and batteries
+protecting the entrance to Spithead. Inland are the Binstead quarries,
+whose stone was in demand in the Middle Ages and built parts of
+Winchester Cathedral, Beaulieu Abbey, and Christchurch; also, here are
+the scanty remains of Quarr Abbey. Eastward of Ryde the coast is low and
+bends more to the southward, reaching the estuary known as Brading
+Harbor, a broad sheet of water at full tide, but a dismal expanse of mud
+at low water, through which a small stream meanders. At Brading is the
+old Norman church which St. Wilfrid founded, of which Rev. Legh
+Richmond, author of the <i>Annals of the Poor</i>, was the curate. In the
+churchyard is the grave of his heroine, little Jane, the "Dairyman's
+Daughter." Extensive remains of a Roman villa have been discovered at
+Morton, near Brading, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516">[Pg 516]</a></span> to the eastward of them a hyptocaust.
+Rounding the Foreland, which is the easternmost point of the island, the
+chalk-rocks rise again, and Whitecliff Bay nestles under the protection
+of the lofty Culver Cliff as the coastline bends south-west and then
+makes a grand semicircular sweep to the southward around Sandown Bay.
+This wide expanse broadens between the two chalk-ridges that cross the
+Isle of Wight from its western side. The railway from Ryde runs across
+the chalk-downs to the growing watering place of Sandown, standing on
+the lowest part of the shores of the bay. Here the coast is guarded by a
+grim fort, and here in the last century came the noted John Wilkes to
+recuperate after his contests with the House of Commons, which vainly
+tried to keep him out of his seat.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;">
+<a name="p516" id="p516"></a>
+<img src="images/p516.jpg" width="421" height="550" alt="SHANKLIN CHINE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHANKLIN CHINE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 477px;">
+<a name="p517" id="p517"></a>
+<img src="images/p517.jpg" width="477" height="600" alt="THE UNDERCLIFF." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE UNDERCLIFF.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The chalk-ranges to the southward provide magnificent scenery, and two
+miles from Sandown, but on higher ground, is Shanklin, from which its
+celebrated chine descends to the sea. This little ravine is about four
+hundred and fifty yards long and at its mouth about two hundred feet
+deep. It has been gradually worn in the brown sandstone rock by the
+action of a diminutive brook that bubbles over a little cascade at the
+upper end. The rich colors of the crags, the luxuriant foliage of the
+slopes, and the rhapsodies of guide books combine to give the Shanklin
+Chine a world-wide fame. It was here that a party of French under the
+Chevalier d'Eulx landed in 1545 to get some fresh water. The process was
+tedious, the stream being so small, and the chevalier and some of his
+party, wandering inland, were caught in an ambuscade. He and most of the
+others were killed, though they defended themselves bravely. South of
+Shanklin the chalk-cliffs are bold and lofty, and off these pretty
+shores the "Eurydice" was lost in a squall, March 24, 1878, when
+returning from her training-cruise in the West Indies. It was at four
+o'clock on Sunday afternoon, and her ports being open when the squall
+struck her, she capsized and almost immediately foundered, only two
+survivors remaining out of the three hundred persons on board. Climbing
+the cliffs south of Shanklin and crossing the summit, we reach Bonchurch
+on the southern coast, described by Dr. Arnold as the most beauti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_517" id="Page_517">[Pg 517]</a></span>ful
+thing on the sea-coast north of Genoa. Here villas are dotted and the
+villages are spreading into towns, for the coast of the Undercliff is
+becoming one of the most fashionable resorts the English have. Already
+complaints are made that a too general extension of settlements is
+interfering with the picturesque wildness of scenery and luxuriant
+vegetation that are the great charm of this delightful region. The
+Undercliff stretches along the southern coast for several miles to the
+westward of Bonchurch&mdash;an irregular terrace formed by the sliding
+forward of the chalk-downs, which dip gently towards the sea. This makes
+a lofty natural terrace, backed by cliffs to the northward and open to
+the full influence of the southern sun. It has the climate of Madeira,
+and is fanned by the sea-breezes that invigorate but do not chill. The
+mildness of the winter makes it a popular resort for invalids, and many
+greenhouse plants live outdoors throughout the year, the almost
+perpendicular rocks of the Undercliff absorbing during the day the heat
+that they radiate throughout the night. Yet at Bonchurch many who had
+sought health in this beautiful region ultimately found a grave, and of
+its churchyard it has been written, "It might make one in love with
+death to think one would be buried in so sweet a place." The ancient
+little Norman church of St. Boniface is still here, but a new and larger
+church was built not long ago. Here lies Rev. W. Adams, who wrote the
+allegory <i>Under the Shadow of the Cross</i>, and it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_518" id="Page_518">[Pg 518]</a></span> is strictly true, for
+the cross raised as his monument casts its shadow on the slab over his
+grave. Admiral Hobson was born at Bonchurch, and ran away from the
+tailor's shop in which he was apprenticed to come back knighted for his
+victory over the Spaniards at Vigo Bay. Ventnor, known as the
+"metropolis of the Undercliff," is beyond Bonchurch, and is also a
+thriving wateringplace, above which rises the attractive spire of Holy
+Trinity Church, built by the munificence of three sisters.</p>
+
+<p>From Ventnor the most beautiful part of the island coast stretches
+westward to Niton. The bold chalk-downs rise from their craggy bases,
+the guardians of the broken terrace intervening between them and the
+sea. Foliage and ivy cling to them; flowers cluster on the turf and
+banks and gleam in the crevices; and little streams come down the
+ravines. Here was the smallest church of England&mdash;St. Lawrence&mdash;twenty
+feet long, twelve wide, and six feet high to the eaves. A chancel has
+lately been added, while below are the ivy-clad ruins of the ancient
+Woolverton Chapel. Near Niton, at Puckaster Cove, Charles II. landed
+after a terrific storm; and beyond is Roche End, the southern point of
+the island. The coast, a dangerous one, then trends to the north-west,
+and wrecks there are frequent, while inland St. Catharine's Down rises
+steeply, there being a magnificent view of the island from its summit,
+elevated seven hundred and fifty feet. Here in the fourteenth century
+was founded, on the highest part of the Isle of Wight, a chantry chapel
+where a priest prayed for the mariner and at night kept a beacon burning
+to warn him off the reefs. An octagonal tower of the chapel remains, but
+a lighthouse supersedes the pious labors of the priest; a column near by
+commemorates a visit of the Russian Czar to the summit of the hill in
+1814. The wild scenery of this region is varied by the great landslip
+which in 1799 carried about one hundred acres down towards the sea, the
+marks of its progress being still shown in the rended rocks and
+wave-like undulations of the earth. About a mile to the westward is the
+most noted and wildest of the ravines of the island, the Blackgang
+Chine, now filled with paths and summer-houses, for the thrifty
+hotel-keepers could not help domesticating such a prize. It is a more
+open ravine than that at Shanklin, and like it cut out by a tiny stream,
+while far away through the entrance is a distant view westward to
+Portland Isle and St. Aldhelm's Head. The rocks are dark green, streaked
+with gray and brown sandstone, looking like uncouth courses of masonry.
+The adjoining coast is guarded by grim crags on which many ships have
+been shattered. There are other chines to the westward&mdash;all of great
+attractions, though of less size and celebrity. The coast is not of so
+much interest beyond, but the cliffs, which are the outposts of the
+chalk-measures, become more lofty at Freshwater Gate, and our sur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_519" id="Page_519">[Pg 519]</a></span>vey of
+the island shores terminates at the Main Bench, whose prolonged point
+goes out to the Needles.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;">
+<a name="p519" id="p519"></a>
+<img src="images/p519.jpg" width="414" height="550" alt="LOOKING FROM CARISBROOKE CASTLE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LOOKING FROM CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Following up the Medina River a few miles, almost to the centre of the
+island, it leads to the metropolis, the little town of Newport, and
+here, upon an outer precipice of the chalk-downs overlooking the
+river-valley and the town, and elevated two hundred feet above the sea,
+is Carisbrooke Castle. The oldest part of the present remains come down
+from Fitzosborne, but additions were afterwards made, and Queen
+Elizabeth, in anticipation of the descent of the Armada, had an outer
+line of defence constructed, pentagonal in shape and enclosing
+considerable space. The loyalty of the people in that time of trial was
+shown by their subscribing money and laboring without pay on these
+works. The ruins are not striking, but are finely situated on the
+elevated ridge. They are much decayed, but the entrance-gateway is well
+preserved, with its flanking round towers, portcullis, and ancient
+doors. Here lived Charles I. and two of his children. A small stone
+building within the enclosure covers the famous well of Carisbrooke,
+sunk in Stephen's days, two hundred and forty feet deep, of which ninety
+feet are filled with water. A solemn donkey in a big wooden wheel works
+the treadmill that winds the bucket up. Formerly, every visitor dropped
+a pebble into the well to hear the queer sounds it made in falling&mdash;"His
+head as he fell went knicketty-knock, like a pebble in Carisbrooke
+Well," used to be a proverb&mdash;but as this amusement threatened to fill up
+the well, it has been prohibited. The keep is at the north-eastern angle
+of the castle, polygonal in plan and of Norman architecture. Carisbrooke
+was held for the empress Maud against Stephen, but the failure of the
+old well in the keep, now filled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_520" id="Page_520">[Pg 520]</a></span> up, caused its surrender. The new one,
+which has never been known to give out, was then bored. In the reign of
+Charles I. the castle was invested by militia on behalf of the
+Parliament, and was surrendered to them by the wife of the governor, the
+Countess of Portland. She obtained specially advantageous conditions
+from the besiegers by appearing on the walls with a lighted match and
+threatening to fire the first cannon unless the conditions were granted.
+King Charles I. took refuge here in November, 1647, but soon found he
+was practically a prisoner. He remained ten months, twice attempting to
+escape. On the first occasion he tried to squeeze himself between the
+bars of his window, but stuck fast; on the second his plan was divulged,
+and on looking out the window he found a guard ready to entrap him
+below. He was taken to Newport and surrendered himself to the
+Parliamentary commissioners, but was ultimately returned to Carisbrooke.
+Then some army officers removed him suddenly to Hurst Castle on the
+mainland, and thence he was taken to Windsor and London for the trial
+that ended on the block at Whitehall. Two of his children were
+imprisoned in Carisbrooke with him&mdash;the young Duke of Gloucester,
+afterwards sent to the Continent, and the princess Elizabeth, who died
+here in childhood from a fever. She was found dead with her hands
+clasped in the attitude of prayer and her face resting on an open Bible,
+her father's last gift. She was buried in an unmarked grave in Newport
+Church, but the coffin was discovered in 1793, and when the church was
+rebuilt in 1856 Queen Victoria erected a handsome monument over the
+little princess, the sculptor representing her lying on a mattrass with
+her cheek resting on the open Bible, the attitude in which she had been
+found. Newport has some ten thousand population.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>TENNYSON'S HOME.</h3>
+
+<p>Tennyson's pretty home is at Farringford, near Freshwater, on the
+western slope of the Isle of Wight, just where it begins to contract
+into the long point of the chalk-cliffs that terminate with the Needles.
+At Brixton, on the south-western coast, is Bishop Ken's parsonage,
+where William Wilberforce spent the closing years of his life. The
+little rectory here is honorably distinguished as having given to the
+Church of England three of its famous prelates: Bishop Ken, one of the
+martyrs whom James II. imprisoned in the Tower, and whose favorite walk
+is still pointed out in the pretty garden; Bishop Samuel Wilberforce of
+Winchester, whose unfortunate death occurred not long ago at Evershed
+Rough; and the present Bishop Moberly of Salisbury. The western
+extremity of the Isle of Wight is a peninsula, almost cut off from the
+main island by the little river Yar, which flows into the Solent at
+Yarmouth. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_521" id="Page_521">[Pg 521]</a></span> is known as the Freshwater Peninsula, and presents
+almost unrivalled attractions for the tourist and the geologist. The
+coast-walk around the peninsula from Freshwater Gate to Alum Bay extends
+about twelve miles. The bold and picturesque chalk-cliffs tower far
+above the sea, their dazzling whiteness relieved by the rich green
+foliage. Some of these hills rise four hundred feet, forming the
+chalk-downs that are the backbone of this most attractive island. Among
+these hills are bewitching little vales and glens, and almost every
+favored spot is availed of as a villa site. No part of England is more
+sought as a place of rural residence than this richly-gifted isle, thus
+set as a gem upon the southern shore of the kingdom.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="p521" id="p521"></a>
+<img src="images/p521.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="FARRINGFORD, TENNYSON&#39;S RESIDENCE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FARRINGFORD, TENNYSON&#39;S RESIDENCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3>THE NEEDLES.</h3>
+
+<p>With the terminating western cliffs of the chalk-hills of the Isle of
+Wight beyond High Down we will close this pleasant journey. The
+far-famed Needles are a row of wedge-like masses of hard chalk running
+out to sea in the direction of the axis of the range of hills. They do
+not now much resemble their name, but in earlier years there was among
+them a conspicuous pinnacle, a veritable needle, one hundred and twenty
+feet in height, that fell in 1764. At present the new lighthouse, built
+at the seaward end of the outermost cliff, is the nearest approach to a
+needle. The headland behind them is crowned by a fort several hundred
+feet above the sea. There were originally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_522" id="Page_522">[Pg 522]</a></span> five of these pyramidal
+rocks, but the waves are continually producing changes in their form,
+and now but three of them stand prominently out of the water.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>And now our task is done. The American visitor landing at Liverpool has
+been conducted through England, and has been shown many of its more
+prominent attractions, but not by any means all of them, for that would
+be an impossible task. But he has been shown enough to demonstrate the
+claim of the mother-country to the continued interest of the Anglo-Saxon
+race from beyond the sea; and to this pleasant panorama and description
+there cannot be given a better termination than at the lovely Isle of
+Wight, the perfection of English scenery and climate, whereof Drayton
+has written,</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Of all the southern isles, she holds the highest place,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And evermore hath been the great'st in Britain's grace;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not one of all her nymphs her sovereign favoreth thus,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Embrac&egrave;d in the arms of old Oceanus."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<a name="p522" id="p522"></a>
+<img src="images/p522.jpg" width="450" height="228" alt="THE NEEDLES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE NEEDLES.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_523" id="Page_523">[Pg 523]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="none">
+
+
+<li>Abbey Dale, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abbey Dore, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abbot, George, Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abbot's Hospital, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abbot's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abbotsbury, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abergele, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abergwili, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aber-tawe, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aberystwith Castle, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Abingdon Abbey, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ad Pontem, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Adams, Rev. W., <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Adam and Eve Inn, London, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Addison, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Addison's Walk, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Admirals, earliest, in England, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Admiralty Building, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Adrian IV., Pope, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;lfred, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;lfrida, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;thelbald, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;thelbert, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;thelred, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;lhelred's Tomb, Wimborne, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&AElig;thelstan, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Agglestone, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aire, River, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aislabie, John, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aisle of Tombs, Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alan the Red, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alard, Gervase, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alard, Stephen, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alban, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Albermarle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Albert Bridge, Tamar River, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Albury Down, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Albury Park, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alderney, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aldershot Camp, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alexander, King of Scotland, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alexander VI., Pope, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alfred, King, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>All Saints' Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+
+<li>All Souls' College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aller Church, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alne River, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alnwick Castle, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alnwick Abbey, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alton, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alton Towers, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Alum Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>American Weed, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Amesbury, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Amphibalus, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anabaptists, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Analogy</i>, Butler's, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anastasius, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anderida, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Angel Inn, Helston, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anglesea, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anglesea Column, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anglican Monastery, Capel-y-ffyn, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Angus, Earl, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Annals of the Poor</i>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Annandale, Earl of, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anne Boleyn's Seat, Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anne of Cleves, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anselm, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anstis Cove, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Anti-Corn Law League, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antoninus, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Apples in Devonshire, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aquarium, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aquila, House of, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aram, Eugene, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arcadia, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arches Court, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Argyle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ariconium, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arkwright, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Armada, Spanish, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Armada trophies, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Armstrong guns, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Armstrong, Sir William, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arnold, Dr., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arnold, Dr., birthplace, Whippingham, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arran Fowddwy, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arthur, King, birthplace, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arthur, King, tomb, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arun River, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arundel Castle, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arundel, Earl of, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arundel Tower, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ascot, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ashby de la Zouche, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ashby, St. Leger, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ashdown, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Asparagus Island, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Astley, Sir Jacob, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Aston Hall, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Athelney, Isle of, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Athelstan, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Auckland, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Auditor's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Audley, Baron Thomas, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Audley End, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Austerbourne, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Austin Friars Priory, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Avelon, Isle of, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Avon ford, New Forest, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Avon gorge, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Avon River, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Axe River, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Axminster, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Axminster carpets, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ayre, Point of, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Babbicombe Bay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bablock Hythe Ferry, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Backs of Colleges, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bacon, Francis, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bacon, Francis, tomb, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bacon, Roger, friar, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Baggy Point, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bagley Wood, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bagworthy Water, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Baker, Chancellor, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Baker's Cross, Sissinghurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bakewell, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bala Lake, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Balliol College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Balliol, King, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ballywasta, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Balsham, Hugh de, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bamborough, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bamborough Castle, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Banbury, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bangor, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bangor-ys-Coed, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bank of England, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bankes, Lady, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bankes, Sir John, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Banstead, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barbican, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barbican, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bard, the, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bardon Hill, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bardon Tower, the Strid, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bargate, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barmoor Wood, Flodden, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barmouth, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barnard Castle, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barnard, Lady, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barnard's Heath, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barndoor Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barnstaple, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barnstaple Bay, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barrow-in-Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Barry, Sir Charles, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Basingstoke Canal, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Baslow, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_524" id="Page_524">[Pg 524]</a></span>Bassenthwaite Lake, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Basset, Gilbert, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bath, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bath bricks, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bath stone, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bathurst, Earl, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Battle of Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Battle of Hastings, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Battledon, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bayeux Tapestry, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bayham Abbey, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beachy Head, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beacon Hill, Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beacon Walks, Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaconsfield Club, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bearwood, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beauchamp Chapel, Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beauchamp, Henry, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beauchamp, Thomas, Earl of Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beauchamp Tower, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beauchief Abbey, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaufort, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaufort, Jane, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaufort, Duke of, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaumaris Castle, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaumonts, the, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beaver Lake, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bebbanburg, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Becket, St. Thomas &agrave;, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Becket, St. Thomas &agrave;, slain, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Becket's Chapel, Peterborough, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Becket's shrine, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beckford, William, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beckington, Bishop, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bed of Ware, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bede, Venerable, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bedford Castle, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bedford, Duke of, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bedford Level, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bedgebury Park, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beeston Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bek, Antony, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bell Harry, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bell Inn, Edmonton, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bell Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bellamont, Henry de, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bellows, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Belted Will, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Belvedere, Windsor Park, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Belvoir Castle, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ben Rhydding Palace, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bentinck, William, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beorm, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beresford, Field-marshal, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beresford Hope, A. J. B., <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berkeley Canal, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berkeley Castle, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berkeley Chapel, Bristol, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berkeley, Earls of, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berks and Wilts Canal, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berkshire, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bermondsey Monastery, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berry Head, Torbay, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berry Pomeroy Castle, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berwick-on-Tweed, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berwick, Dorset, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bess of Hardwicke, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Betchworth Castle, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bettws-y-Coed, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beverley, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Beverley Minster, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bicester, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bickleigh Vale, Plym River, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bicycles, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Biddulph, R. Myddelton, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bideford, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bideford Bridge, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bidston, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bigner, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bigod, Roger, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Binstead quarries, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bird-fair, Kirkham, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Birkenhead, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Birmingham, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bisham Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bishop's Eye, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bishop's Garden, Wells, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bishops Hatfield, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bisterne, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bittern Manor, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Black Down, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Black Friars Monastery, Newcastle, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Black Mountains, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Black Rood, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blackgang Chine, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blacklow Hill, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blackmore, novelist, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bladud's Well, Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blake, Admiral, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blenheim, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blenheim Woods, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blickling, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bloody Baker's Prison, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bloody Gap, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bloody Meadow, Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bloody Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Blorenge, Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boadicea, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boar and Sow, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boatswain, dog, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bodleian Library, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bold, Jonas, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bodley, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boldre, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boleyn, Sir Geoffrey, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boleyn, Sir William, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bolsover Castle, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bolton Abbey, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bolton Hall, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bonchurch, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Borrowdale Valley, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boscobel Wood, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boscombe Chine, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bossiney, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boston, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boswell, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bosworth Field, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Botanic Garden, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bothwell, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boulton and Watt, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bourne River, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bournemouth, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bow and Arrow Castle, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bow bells, London, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bowder Stone, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bowness, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bowyer Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Box Hill, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Box Tunnel, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Boy of Egremont, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bradda Head, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bradford, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bradgate, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brading Harbor, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bramble Hill, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brandon, Charles, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brandon Hill, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brasenose College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bray Church, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Braybrooke, Baron, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brayford Pool, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brazen head, the, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Breakwater, Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brecknock, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brede River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brendon River, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brendon Hills, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brick Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brictric, King, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bridgenorth, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bridgenorth, Castle, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bridgewater, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bridgewater, Earl of, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bridport, Lord, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brigg-shot, Leeds, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brightstow, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brislee Hill, Alnwick Park, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristol Cathedral, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristol Channel, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristol, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristol milk, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bristow Castle, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Britannia Bridge, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>British Constitution, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>British Museum, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brixham, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brixton, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broad Moor, Naseby, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broad Walk, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broadcloth manufacture, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broad water, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brocavum, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brockenhurst, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brockenhurst Church, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brockweir, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brompton, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bronwen, Lady, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brooke, Lord, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brooke, Sir James, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brougham Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brougham, Lord, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broughton Castle, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Broughton, Lady, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brown, Capability, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brown, Sir William, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brown Willy, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Browning, Elizabeth B., <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brummagem, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buccleuch, Duke of, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckhurst, Lord, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckingham, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_525" id="Page_525">[Pg 525]</a></span>Buckingham, Duke of, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckingham, Duke of, murdered, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckingham Palace, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckinghamshire, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buckland Abbey, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bull-running, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bumble Rock, Lizard, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bunbury College, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bunyan, John, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burgess, Dr., <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burghley House, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burghley, Lord, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burke, Edmund, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burke, Sir Bernard, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Burnet, Bishop, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bury St. Edmunds, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bushey Park, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bussex Rhine, Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Butchers' Row, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bute, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Butler, Bishop, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Butler, Lady, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Buxton, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Byng, Admiral, executed, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Byrom, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Byron, Lord, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Byron, Sir John, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Byron's Pool, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Cable, Submarine, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cabot, Sebastian, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cad River, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cade, Jack, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cader Idris, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cadogan, Lord, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&aelig;dmon, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caer Taff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caergwrle Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caerleon, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caermarthen, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caernarvon, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caernarvon Castle, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caernarvonshire, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caerphilly Castle, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caerwise, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&aelig;sar, Julius, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&aelig;sarea, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&aelig;sar's Tower, Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caister Castle, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caithness, Earl of, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caius College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cakes, Banbury, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Calder River, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Calf of Man, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Calshot Castle, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Calveley, Sir Hugh, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cam River, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cambridge, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cambridge Castle, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Camden, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Camdentown, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Camelford, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Campbell, Lord, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canova, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canterbury, Archbishop of, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canterbury Castle, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canterbury Cathedral, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Canterbury Tales</i>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canute, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Canynge, William, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Capel, Lord, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Capel-y-ffyn, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Capstone Rock, Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cardiff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cardigan Bay, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cardinal Beaufort's Tower and Gate, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cardinal's Cap Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carew Castle, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carfax Conduit, Oxford, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carisbrooke Castle, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carisbrooke Well, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carlisle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carlisle, Earls of, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carlton Club, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carmelite discipline, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carpets, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carr, Robert, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Carrick Roads, Falmouth, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caskets, the, Alderney, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cassiobury, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cassivelaunus, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castello, Hadrian de, Bishop, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Cornet, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Crag, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Field, Bridgwater, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Green, Hereford, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Hill, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Hill, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Hill, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Howard, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Malwood, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castle Rock, Lynton, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castleton, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Castletown, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Catch-Cold Tower, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Catesby, Robert, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Catharine of Braganza married, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Catharine, queen's tomb, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Catwater Haven, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cavendish, Sir Charles, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cavendish, Sir William, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cavendish Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cavern of the Peak, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caversham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Caversham House, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cawdor, Earl of, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Henry, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Sir Robert, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Sir William, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Thomas, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cecil, William Allayne, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chain Gate, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chain Pier, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chalk Cliffs, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chalk measures, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chanctonbury Hill, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Channel Islands, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chapel Royal, Whitehall, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charlecote House, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles I., <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles I., death, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles I., tomb, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles II., <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles II., married, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charles X., <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Charnwood Forest, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chartley Castle, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chatsworth, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chatterton, Thomas, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chaucer, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chaucer's tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chavenage, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Checquers Inn, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chequers Inn, Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheddar cheese, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheddar Cliffs, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheddar Forest, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chedzoy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chee Tor, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chelsea Hospital, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheltenham, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chenies, Woburn, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chepstow Castle, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chertsey, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cherwell River, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheshire, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chesil Bank, Portland, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chesilton, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheslyn, Richard, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chester, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chester, Earls of, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chesterfield, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cheviot Hills, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chichele, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chichester, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Childs, George W., <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chiltern Hills, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Chirk Castle, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christ Church College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christ Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christ's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christchurch, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christchurch Castle, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christchurch Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Church Brixham, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Church Hope Cove, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Churchill, John, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Churn River, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Churnet River, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cinque Ports, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cirencester, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Citadel Point, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clapham, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clare College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clare, Gilbert de, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clare, Walter de, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clarendon, Earl of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clarendon, Lord, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clausentum, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cleddan River, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cliefden, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifford Castle, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifford, Lord, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifford, Rosamond, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifford's Tower, York, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifton, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardness, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clifton-Hampden, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clinton, Geoffrey de, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clock Tower, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clock Tower, Westminister, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clovelly, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clovelly Court, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clumber Park, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">[Pg 526]</a></span>Clwyd River, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Clytheroe Castle, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coal-mines, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cobb Pier, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cobbett, Colonel, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cobden, Richard, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cobden Hall, Rochester, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Codex Beza, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coed-pen-Maen, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&oelig;ur de Leon, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coldwell, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coleridge, S. T., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>College Walks, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Colman's mustard, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coln River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Color Court, St. James Palace, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Combe Martin, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Commemoration Day, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Common Hard, Portsea Dockyard, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Compton Castle, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Comus, Masque of</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Conderum, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Congleton, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coningsby, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Conrad's Choir, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Constable's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Constantine the Great, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Constantius Chlorus, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Conway Castle, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Conway River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cookes, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Copper King, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Copper-mines, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Copper-works, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coquet Island, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corbi&egrave;re Promontory, Jersey, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corfe Castle, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corincus, Giant, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corinium, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cormoran, Giant, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corner Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cornet Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cornwall, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cornwall, Duchy of, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cornwallis, Lord, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coronation chairs, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corpus Christi College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Corwen, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cotswold Hills, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cotton, Charles, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Count of the Saxon Shore, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li>
+
+<li>"Country Bridal," the, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Court of Arches, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Court of St. James, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Coventry, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cowdray Ruins, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cowes, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cowes Harbor, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cowey Stakes, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cowley, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cox, Bishop of Ely, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cranbrook, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cranbrook Church, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cranmore Pool, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crescents, Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Creslow House, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crewe, Baron Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cricklade, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crimea trophies, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crocodile's Tears, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cromlechs, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cronk-ny-Jay Llaa, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cross, Banbury, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cross, Winchester, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crosses, Market, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crowland Abbey, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Croxden Abbey, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crumlyn Bog, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crusoe, Robinson, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crystal Palace, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cumberland, Clifford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cumberland, Earl of, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cumberlandshire, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cumnor Hall, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cursus, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cutlery, Sheffield, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Culver Cliff, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Dacre, Lord, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Dairyman's Daughter, The</i>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dale, John, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dalton, Dr., <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dane River, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Darling, Grace, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Darnley, Earl, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dart River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dartmouth, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Daventry, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li>
+
+<li>David, King of Scotland, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Davy, Sir Humphry, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dawlish, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>De Gray, Walter, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>De Lacy, Baron Ilbert, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li>
+
+<li>De Ros family, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Deadly Nightshade, Valley of, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Deal, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dean Forest, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dean's Eye, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Deans, Jeanie, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Death Rock, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dee, Miller of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dee River, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dee, Sands o', <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Deepdale, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Deepdene, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Denbies, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Denbigh, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dene, Ralph de, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dennis Duval, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derby, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derby Day, Epsom, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derby, Earls of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derbyshire, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derbyshire marbles, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derwent River, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derwentwater, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Derwentwater, Earl of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Despenser, Hugh, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>D'Eulx, Chevalier, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devil's Bellows, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devil's Coits, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devon, Countess of, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devon, Earls of, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devonport, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devonshire, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Devonshire, Earl of, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dewerstone, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dickens, Charles, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Digby, Earl of, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Digby, G. D. Wingfield, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dinan, Joyce de, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dinas Bran Castle, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dingles, the, Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Disraeli, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ditchling Beacon, Brighton, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Do, Mary, tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dockyard, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dolwyddelan, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Don River, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Donington Hall, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Doone Glen, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dorchinges, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dore, Mary, tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dore River, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dorking, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dorking, Battle of, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dorking fowls, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dorsetshire, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Double Cube-room, Wilton, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Douglas, death, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dour River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dove Holes, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dovecote, Holmwood Park, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dovedale, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dover, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dover Castle, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dovey River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dowards, Great and Little, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dowlands landslip, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Downing College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Downing Street, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Downs, the, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Downton Castle, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Drake, Sir Francis, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Drawing Room, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Drayton, Michael, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Drayton, poet, <a href='#Page_522'>522</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Drummond, Henry, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dubr&aelig; River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dudley, Earl of Leicester, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dugdale, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Duke of Cornwall Harbor, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Duke of Wellington Flagship, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dukeries the, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dukesborough, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dulas River, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Dunciad, The</i>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunford House, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dungeness Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunhelm, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunkery Beacon, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunstan, Abbot of Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunster, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dunster Castle, Siege, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dupplin, Lady Betty, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_527" id="Page_527">[Pg 527]</a></span>Durham, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Durham, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Durham Castle, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Durham Cathedral, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Durham, Earls of, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Durovernum, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dwr River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dyer, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dyfi River, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Eadwine, King, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eadwine's Tomb, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eagle and Child, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eagle Honour Castle, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eagle Rock, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eagle Tower, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Earl Hugh's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Earl's Drive, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Earl's Park, Wilton, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Easby Abbey, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>East Cow, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>East Lyn River, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eaton Hall, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eaton Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ebbsfleet, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eboracum, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ebrane, King, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eddystone Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edeirnim Vale, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eden River, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgar, King, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgar Tower, Worcester, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgecot, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgecumbe, Mount, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgehill Battle, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edgehill Battlefield, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edial, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edmund, King, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward, King, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward I., <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward II., <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward II.'s murder, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward II.'s Shrine, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward III., <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward IV., <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward VI., <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward the Black Prince, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward, Black Prince, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Edward the Confessor's Chapel, Westminster, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eel-Pie Island, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Egbert, King, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Egyptian Hall, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eldon, Chancellor, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eldon, Earl of, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eleanor of Aquitaine's Tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eleanor, Queen, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elford the Royalist, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eliseg's Pillar, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth Castle, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth, Princess, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth's Tomb, Newport, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth's Court, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth's Defiance, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elkington, Messrs., <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ellesmere Canal, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elstow, Bedford, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elswick, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elton, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ely, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ely Cathedral, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ely, Isle of, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ely River, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Emerson, Ralph Waldo, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Emma, Queen, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Emmanuel College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Emperor Fountain, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Encombe, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Endsleigh, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Endymion, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>English Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Epping Forest, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Epsom Races, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Epsom Salts, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Erasmus' Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eric, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Erme River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ermine Street, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ermine Street Road, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ernisius, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Erpingham, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Esk River, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Essex, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Essex, Earls of, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ethelbald, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ethelbert, King, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ethelfleda, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eton College, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eurydice wrecked, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Euston Square Station, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Evelyn, John, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Evelyn's <i>Diary</i>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Evenlode River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Evergreen Drive, Woburn, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Evershed Rough, Wolton, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ewer, Colonel, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ewias, Harold, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ewiasvale, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ewloe Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exanceaster, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exchequer Gate, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exe River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter Cathedral, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter, Earl of, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter Gardens, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exeter, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exmoor, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eynsham, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Faerie Queene, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fair Rosamond, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fair Rosamond's birthplace, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fair Rosamond's coffin, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fairfax, Lord, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Falkland, Lord, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Falmouth, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Falmouth Harbor, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Falstaff Inn, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Falstaff, Sir John, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Farnborough, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Farne, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Farringford, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fawkes, Guy, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Feathers Inn, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fell, Dean, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fenland, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ferrars Abbey, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ferrars, Earl, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Feversham, Lord, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Field of the Dead, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fiennes, John de, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Finch, Lord Chancellor, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Finger Pillory, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fire Monument, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fish Street Hill, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fishes, Brighton Aquarium, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzalan, Richard, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzalans' tombs, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzgilbert, Richard, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzhanem, Robert, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzosborne, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fitzwilliam, Viscount, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Five Sisters' Window, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flambard, Bishop of Durham, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flamborough Head, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fleet Ditch, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fleet Estuary, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flemings, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flemyng, Richard, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flint Castle, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flintshire, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Floating Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Flodden, Battle, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fluellen, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Folkestone, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Folly Bridge, Thames, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fonthill Abbey, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ford Castle, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Foreign Office, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Foreland, Dorset, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Foreland, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Forest Minstrel, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Forest of Dean, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Forfarshire wreck, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fors Noddyn, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Forster, Anthony, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fort George, Guernsey, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fort Pitt, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Foss River, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fosse Dyke Canal, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Foston-le Clay, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fotheringhay, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fountains Abbey, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fountain Dale, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fountains Dale, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fountains Hall, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fowey, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fowey Pier, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fowls, Dorking, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fox and Hounds, Box Hill, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fox, Bishop, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fox, Charles James, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fox, George, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fox, Henry Vassal, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Freshwater, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Freshwater Gate, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Freshwater Peninsula, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Friar Tuck, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Friar's Crag, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Friar's Heel, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Friars, the, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_528" id="Page_528">[Pg 528]</a></span>Friar's Tower, the, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frome River, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Furness Abbey, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Gad's Hill, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gainsborough, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Galilee, Durham, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gallantry Bower, Clovelly, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Garrick, David, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Garter, Order of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Garway Hill, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gates, Sir John, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gaunt, John of, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gaveston, Piers, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gee, Sir William, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Geoffrey of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>.</li>
+
+<li>George II., portrait, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>George III., <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>George IV., <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li>
+
+<li>George Inn, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>George Inn, Stamford, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ghosts, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Giant's Hole, Bristol, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gillkicker Point, Portsmouth Harbor, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gillott's steel pens, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gilpin, John, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gilpin, Rev. W., <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gladstone, William E., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glamorganshire, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glastonbury Abbey, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gleawecesore, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glendower, Owen, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glendower's Seat, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glevum, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester, Duke of, tomb, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester Siege, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucester Spa, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gloucestershire, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Glyme River, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goblin Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goderic de Winchcomb, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Godiva, Lady, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>God's Providence House, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Godstow Nunnery, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Godwine, Earl, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Cap, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Gallery, St. Paul's, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Gates, Woburn, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Grove, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Tower, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golden Valley, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goldstone, Prior, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Golgotha, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goodrich Castle and Court, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goodrich Priory, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goodwin Sands, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goodwood races, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goose fair, Nottingham, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gormund, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goring, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goring, Charles, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goring, Lord, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goring, Rev. John, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gosport, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Goudhurst, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gower, Henry de, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grace Darling's Monument, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grace Dieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grand Trunk Canal, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grange, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grantham, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Granville, Earl, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Granville, Richard de, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gravesend, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Graveyards, the, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gray's Inn, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great and Little Hangman, Combe Martin, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Doward, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Fire, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Hall, Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Hampden, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great North Road, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Orme's Head, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Park, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Paul, bell, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great St. Mary's Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Tom, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Western Railway, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Greatham Church, <a href='#Page_498'>498</a>, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Green Dragon Inn, Worcester, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Green Park, London, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Greenaleigh Headland, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Greenwich, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grenofen, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grenovicum, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grenville, Richard, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Greta Hall, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Greta River, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grevilles, Earls of Warwick, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grey, Lady Jane, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grey, Sir John, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Groby, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gros, William le, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grosmont Castle, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grosvenor Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grouville Bay, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guernsey, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guesten Hall, Worcester, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guestling Brook, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guild Hall, Exeter, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guildhall, Norwich, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guildford, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guiordano, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gun Wharf, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gunpowder Plot, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guthlac, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guthram, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guttred the Dane, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guy of Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guy's Cliff, Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guy's Tower, Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gwydyr House, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gwynne, Nell, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gwynne, Nell, birthplace, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Hacket, Bishop, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Haddon Hall, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hailsham, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Haldon Hills, Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hall, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hallam Manor, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Halle, John, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Haltwhistle, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hammond's Ford, Alne River, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hamoaze, the, Tamar River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hampden, John, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hampshire, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hampton Court, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hanger, Selborne, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hansom cabs, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Happy Valley, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harcourt family, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harcourt, Lord, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hardicanute, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hardwicke Hall, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harlech Castle, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harold, King, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harrison, John, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harrow School, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harry Hereford, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harry Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hartland Point, Devon, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Haslar Hospital, Gosport, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hastings, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hastings Castle, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hastings, Lord, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hastings, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hastings, Warren, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hatfield, Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hatfield House, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hathaway, Anne, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hathaway, Anne, Cottage, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hatton, Anne, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hatton, Sir Christopher, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Haverfordwest, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hawarden Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hay Castle, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hay Park, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hayes Barton, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hayes, Sir James, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Headon Hill, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heath flowers, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heber, Bishop, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heights of Abraham, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Helford River, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Helston, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hemp, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hengist, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hengist and Horsa, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hengistbury Head, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hengrave Hall, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henley Reach, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry II., <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry II.'s penance, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry III., <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry IV., tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry V., birthplace, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry VI., birthplace, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry VII., <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry VII.'s Chapel, Westminster, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry VIII., <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry VIII., tomb, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry Beauclerc, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry Beauclerc's death, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Henry of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herbert, George, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_529" id="Page_529">[Pg 529]</a></span>Herbert, Lord, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herbert, Lord of Lea, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herbert, Sidney, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herbert, Sir William, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herbert's Statue, Pall Mall, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hereford Cathedral, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hereford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hereford, Harry, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herefordshire Beacon, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Herne the Hunter, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heron, Lady, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heron, Sir William, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Heronry, Vinney Ridge, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hertford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hertfordshire, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hervey, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hever Castle, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hexham, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>High Down, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li>
+
+<li>High Level Bridge over Tyne, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>High Peak, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>High Tor, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li>High Town, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hill Tower, Dunster, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hill, William, sexton, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hilda, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hillsborough, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hinderskelf Cattle, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hoare, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hobs, Robert, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hobson, Admiral, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hobson's Choice, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hobson's Conduit, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hock Tuesday, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hodder River, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hodeni River, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hoe, the, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hog's Back, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holbein, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holgate, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holland, Earl of, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holland House, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holland the regicide, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holmby House, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holme, Randall, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holmsdale, Surrey, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holmwood, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holt, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holt, Chief-Justice, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holte, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Isle, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Headland, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Mountain, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Trinity Church, Hull, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Trinity Church, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Trinity Church, Ventnor, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Well, Malvern, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holy Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holyhead, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Holywell, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Home, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hood, Robin, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hook, Theodore, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hoole House, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hooker, Richard, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hooper, John, Bishop, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hope Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hope, H. T., <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hope's Nose, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Horse Guards, Whitehall, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Horsley, artist, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Horticultural Gardens, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Horton, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hosiery-making, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hotspur, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hotspur's Chair, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hotspur's Tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Houghton, Lord, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>.</li>
+
+<li>House of Commons, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>House of Delight, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+
+<li>House of Peers, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Houses of Parliament, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>How Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howard Castle, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howard, Henry, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howard, Lord of Effingham, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howard, Lord Thomas, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howard, Lord William, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howards' tombs, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howitt's <i>Forest Minstrel</i>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Howsham, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Hudibras</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hudson, railway king, birthplace, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hugh of Avelon, Bishop, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hull, Mr., <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hull River, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hulne Priory, Alnwick Park, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Humber River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Humbleton Hill, battle, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hundred Men's Hall, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Huntingdon, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Huntley, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hurst Castle, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hurstmonceux Castle, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Huskisson, Joseph, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hut-villages, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hyde Park Corner, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hyde Park, London, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hyptocaust, Chester, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hythe, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Ida, King, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Idris's chair, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Iffley, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ifon, David ap, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ignatius, Father, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Iktis, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ilchester Castle. <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ilchester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ilkley, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ina, King, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ina's Rock, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Inner Temple, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Inns of Court, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ireton, Colonel, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Iron-mills, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Iron ore, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ironsides, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Irwell River, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isca, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isis River, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Athelney, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Avelon, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Dogs, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Purbeck, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of St. Nicholas, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Thanet, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Itchen River, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Ivanhoe</i>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ivy Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Jack the Giant-killer, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>James I., <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>James II., <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>James I. of Scotland. <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>James IV. of Scotland, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>James, G. P. R., <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jan Ridd's tree, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jane, the Dairyman's Daughter, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jarrow Monastery, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jason, Thorwaldsen's, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jeffreys, Judge, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jephson Gardens, Leamington, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jersey, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jesmond, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jesus College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jesus College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jet, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jewel House, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jewry Wall, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jews' House, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jews' Massacre, York, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Joan of Navarre, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Joan of the Tower, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jocelyn, Bishop, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John, King, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John, King, signs Magna Charta, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John, King, tomb, Worcester, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John of Gaunt, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John of Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John of Kent, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>John of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Johnson, Dr. Samuel, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jonson, Ben, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Jones, Inigo, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Joseph of Arimathea, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Joyce, Cornet, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Judhael's Castle, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Julius C&aelig;sar's Tower, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Keate, Head-master of Eton, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Keats, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Keble College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kempenfelt, Admiral, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ken, Thomas, Bishop, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ken, Bishop, parsonage, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kendal Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kenilworth, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kenilworth Castle, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kennet River, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kensington Palace, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kent, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kent, Duke of, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kentchurch, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Keswick, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kettel Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Keyham Point, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kidder, Bishop, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kilmarth Mountain, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kilndown, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kilpeck, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kimmeridge Vale, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kinder Fall, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_530" id="Page_530">[Pg 530]</a></span>Kinderscout, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kineton, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Alfred's White Horse, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Arthur's Cliffs, Tintagel, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Arthur's Round Table, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Arthur's Round Table, Newport, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Edward's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King Monmouth, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King of Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King of the Peak, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Arms Inn, Lancaster, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Gateway, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Head Inn, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Manor, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>King's Parade, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kingsley, Charles, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kingston, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kingston-upon-Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirk Braddon, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirke, Colonel, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirke's Lambs, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirkgate Church, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirkgate, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kirkham Priory, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kitchen, Abbot's, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Knebworth, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Knole, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Knott Mill, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Knowsley Hall, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Koh-i-noor Diamond, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kymin Hill, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kynance Cove, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kyrle, John, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kytson, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Labilli&egrave;re, Major, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Laconia, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lacy, William de, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ladies of the Vale, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lady Chapel, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lady of Caversham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lady Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Laira Estuary, Plym River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lake Country, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lamb Row, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lamberhurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lambert's Oaks, Banstead, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lambeth Bridge, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lambeth Palace, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lambton Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lampreys, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lancashire, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lancaster Castle, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lancaster, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Landor, Walter Savage, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Landewednack, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Landport, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Land's End, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lansdowne Hill, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Landslip, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lanfranc, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Langley Priory, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Langport, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Langton, Archbishop, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Languard Fort, Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Latimer, Bishop, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Launcelot of the Lake, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Launceston Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Law of Lydford, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lazarus, Raising of, painting, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lea Hall, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lead-mines, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>League of Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leam River, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leamington, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lebanon, cedars of, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leche River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lechlade, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leconfield Castle, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leeds, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leeds Castle, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leeta Monastery, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leicester, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leicester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leicester Hospital, Warwick, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leicestershire, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leigh Woods, Bristol, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leighton, Sir Frederick, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leith Hill, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leith Hill Place, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lennox, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leo X., Pope, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leofric, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>L'Espec, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leveson, Sir John, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leveson-Gowers, the, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lewellyn, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Leys Park, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lichfield Cathedral, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Li&egrave;ge Abbey, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln Castle, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln Cathedral, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln, Earl of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincoln's Inn, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lincolnshire, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lindisfarne, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lindsay, Lord, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lindum, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lingen, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lion Rock, Kynance, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lion's Den, Lizard, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Liskeard, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lisle, Alice, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>L'Isle, Baron de, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Little Doward, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Little Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Littlebury, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Liulph the Saxon, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Livingstone relics, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Liverpool, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lizard Peninsula, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lizard Point, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lizard Tower, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llandaff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llangollen Valley, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llanhodeni, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llanrwst, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llanthony Priory, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llanthony Priory, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lledr River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llewellyn's tomb, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lloyd's, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lloyd's Palace, Bishop, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llugwy River, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llyffnant River, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Llyn Dyn, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lodden River, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lodore Falls, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Loe, Sir William, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Logan Rock, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Loidis, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lollards' Dungeon, Chichester, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lollards' Tower, Lambeth, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Londinium, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>London, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>London Bridge, Torbay, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>London Stone, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>London Tavern, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>London Times</i>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Long Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Long Reach, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Long Valley, Aldershot, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Long Walk, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Longfield, East Sheen, Surrey, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Longships, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Longstone Island, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Longtown, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Loo Pool, Lizard, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lord's Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lorna Doone, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lovel, Lord, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lovers' Walk, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lowell, James Russell, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ludgate Hill, London, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ludlow Castle, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lulworth Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lundy Island, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lune River, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lupus, Hugh, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Lycidas</i>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lyd River, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lydford Castle, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lym River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lymington, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lymington River, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lyn River, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lynton, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lyndhurst, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lynmouth, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lyon, John, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lytton, Lord, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Macaulay, T. B., <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Machno River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Madoc, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Madonie, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Maentwrog, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magdalen College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magdalen Walks, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magdalene College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magna Charta, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magna Charta Island, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Magnus, Thomas, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Maidenhead, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Maidstone, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Main Bench, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malcolm III., <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malcolm's Well, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_531" id="Page_531">[Pg 531]</a></span>Mallard, the, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malt-Shovel Inn, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malthus, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malvern Hills, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malvern Link, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malvern Priory, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malvern Wells, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Malwood Castle, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Man, Isle of, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Man of Ross, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Man-of-War Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Man-of-War Rock, Lizard, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manchester, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manchester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mancunium, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manners, John, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manners, Sir George, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manners, Thomas, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manorbeer Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mansfield, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mansion House, London, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manthe Doog, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Manvers, Earl of, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mapledurham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marble Arch, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Margate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Margaret, Countess of Richmond, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Margaret of Anjou, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Margaret, Queen, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marine Parade, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Market Bosworth, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Market crosses, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Market Harborough, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Market Inn, Bridgwater, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marlborough Column, Blenheim, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marlborough, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marlborough, Duke of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marlborough House, London, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marmion, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marquis of Granby, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marston Moor, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Marten, Henry, regicide, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martin of Tours, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martin the lunatic, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martin Tower, London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martin, Wykeham, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martindale Hall, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Martyrs' Memorial, Oxford, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen, married, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, bower, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, death, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Masque of Comus</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Master's Court, Cambridge. <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Master's Lodge, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Matlock, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Maud's Chapel, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Maud, Empress, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mauleverers, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mawddach River, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mayflower, the, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Medina River, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Medlock River, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Medmenham Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Medway River, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Memorial Window, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Menai Strait, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mercery Lane, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mereden House, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Merioneth, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Merlin, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Merlin's Hill, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mermaid's Pool, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mersey River, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Merton College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Messiah Church, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mew River, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Michelham Priory, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Micklegate Bar, York, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Middle Temple, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Middlesex, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Middlezoy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Midhurst, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mildmay, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Milford, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Milford Haven, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Milford, Lord, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Milton, John, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Minehead, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Minstead, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Minster Lovel, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Minstrels' Gallery, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Minstrel Gallery, Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Miserrimus, tomb, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mitton parish, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mixed Cloth Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moat Hall, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mob Quad, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moberly, Bishop of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mohan's Tor, Torbay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moira, Lord, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mold, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mole River, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Molly Mog, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mona Isle, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moncton Fort, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Money Copse, Osborne House, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monk, General, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth, Harry, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth caps, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth, Duke of, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth, John of, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth, King, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouth Road, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monmouthshire, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Monnow River, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mont Orgueil Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Montague House, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li>
+
+<li>Montague, Viscount, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Montfort, Simon de, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Montgomery Castle, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Montgomery, Roger de, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Montreville, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>More, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moresco Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moreton, Earl of, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morgan's Mount, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morley, Earl of, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morte Bay, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morte Point, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morte Stone, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morthoe, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morthoe Church, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morison, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mortimer, Roger, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mortimer's Tower, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Morton, Roman villa, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mother Church of England, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Motherbank, Spithead, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount Batten, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount Edgecumbe, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount Edgecumbe, Earl of, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount Sorrel, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount Wise, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mount's Bay, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moyle Court, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Much Wenlock, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mullyon Cove, <a href='#Page_455'>455</a>, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Multangular Tower, York, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mumbles, Swansea Bay, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Murray, Lindley, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Murray's Guide</i>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mustard, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mutton, South Down, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Mysteries of Udolpho</i>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Nadder River, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nailheart, John, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nantwich, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Naphtha, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Napier, Lord, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Naseby, Battle of, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nash, Beau, of Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nash House, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nash, Thomas, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Natural History of Selborne</i>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Naval Asylum, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Naworth Castle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neath Abbey, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neath River, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Needles, the, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nelson, Admiral, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nelson's Column, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nelson's Tomb, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nelson's warship, Victory, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Netley Abbey, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville, Earl, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville, Maude, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville, Richard, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville's Cross, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neville's Cross, battle, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Bridge, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Brighton, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Church, Wilton, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Forest, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Haven, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Inn, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Palace, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Place, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>New Work, the, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newark, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newark Church, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newarke Hospital, Leicester, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newcastle, Duke of, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newcastle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newcastle House, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newcastle-under-Lyme, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newcastle-upon-Tyne, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_532" id="Page_532">[Pg 532]</a></span>Newland, John, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newport, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>. <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newport Gate, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newstead Abbey, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newton, Abbot, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newton, Isaac, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newton's Telescope, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newton's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Newtown Linford, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nicholas, Czar, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nickleby, Nicholas, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li>
+
+<li>Nidum, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nine Altars' Chapel, Durham, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li>
+
+<li>Nine Altars' Chapel, Fountains Abbey, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nore, the, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norfolk, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norfolk, Duke of, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norham Siege, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norris Castle, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Bar, Beverley, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Barrule, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Foreland Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Hill, Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>North Sea, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northamptonshire, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northern University, Durham, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northumberland, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northumberland, Earls of, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northumberland, Elizabeth, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northumbria, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Northumbria Westminster, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norwich, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norwich Castle, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Norwich Cathedral, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nottingham, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Nuneham Park, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Oak Meadow, Ross, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oak, Queen Elizabeth's, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oakley Park, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oaks Day, Epsom, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oare, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oare Valley, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old King's Head Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Obelisk, Castle Howard, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Observatory, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ocellum Promontorium, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Octagon Tower, Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oslo, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Offa, King, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Offa's Dyke and Chair, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Okehampton, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old Lizard Head, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old Peter, bell, York, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old Sarum, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old Tabard Inn, London, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Old Tom, Oxford, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oldcastle, Sir John, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oldmixon, John, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ollerton, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Order of the Garter, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ordulph, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Orgarius, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oriel College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Orrest Head, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Orwell River, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Osborne House, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Osengal Hill, Ramsgate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Osric, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oswald, Bishop, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oswy's tomb, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Otterbourn Battle, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ouse River, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ousenford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Overton, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Owens College, Manchester, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oxford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oxfordshire, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oystermouth Castle, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Oysters, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Painted Hall, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Palace of Justice, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Palace of the Peak, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Palmer's Guild, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pang River, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pangbourne, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parliament House, Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parliament, Houses of, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parlor, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parr, Queen Catherine, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parrett River, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parson and Clerk, Dawlish, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Paterson, William, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Paul, Great, bell, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Paulinus, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Paul's Walk, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Paxton, Sir Joseph, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peace of Cuthbert, Durham, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peacock Inn, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peak of Derbyshire, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peel, Sir Robert, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peele Castle, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peeping Tom, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pegwell Bay, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pelham-Clinton family, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke College, Cambridge. <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke, Earls of, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke Marbles, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembroke, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pembrokeshire, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penarth Roads, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pen-Combick, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penda, King, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pendennis Castle, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pennsylvania Castle, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pennsylvania Suburb, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pennine Hills, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penny-come-quick, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penrhyn Castle, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penshurst, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penshurst Church, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pentise, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penwith Headland, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Penzance, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pepys' <i>Diary</i>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pepys, Samuel, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Perch Rock Light, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Percies, the, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Percy, Bishop, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Percy, Henry de, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Percy, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Percy's Well, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peter, Hermit, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peterborough Cathedral, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peterhouse, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Petworth, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pevensey, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peveril of the Peak, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Peverils, the, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pfestiniog Vale, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pharos, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Philip, Archduke, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Philip of Spain, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Philippa, Queen, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ph&oelig;nix Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pickering Tor, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pictou Castle, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pierrepont House, Surrey, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pilchard King, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pilchards, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pilgrim Fathers, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pindar's House, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pin-making, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pistol Meadow, Lizard, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pitt, Fort, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pitt Press, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pitt, William, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pitt's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pixies' House, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plas Crug, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plas Newydd, Llangollen, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plas Newydd, Menai Strait, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plumbago-mine, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plym Bridge, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plym River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plym Steps, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plymouth Sound, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plympton Earl, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plympton Maurice, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plympton Priory, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plympton St. Mary, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Plynlimmon, Mount, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pocket Pistol, Queen Elizabeth's, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poets' Corner, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Point Keyham, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poison Cup of Clare, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Polden Hills, Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>. <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pole, Reginald, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pole, Reginald's, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Polpeor, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pomfret Marbles, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ponsonby, Miss, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pont Cysylltau, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pontrilas Court, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poole, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poole Harbor, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poore, Bishop, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pope, Alexander, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pope's Seat, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pope's Tomb, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pope, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Porlock Bay, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Porlock Moor, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Port Madoc, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_533" id="Page_533">[Pg 533]</a></span>Port Tennant, Swansea, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Porthcawl, Swansea Bay, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portinscale, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland Bill, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland Castle, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland, Countess of, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland, Duke of. <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland Isle, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portland Race, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a></li>
+
+<li>Portland stone, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portsea, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portsea Island, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Portsmuthe, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Post-office, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pottergate Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poultry Cross, Salisbury, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Poultry, the, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Powis, Earl, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Powisland, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Powys Castle, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pradanack Point, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pratt, Chief-Justice, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Precipice of Fishes, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prescot, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prince Arthur's Tower, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prince's Gate, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prince's Landing-Stage, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Printing-House Square, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prior, poet, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prior Goldsmith's Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prior, Richard, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Priory Church, Christchurch, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prison, Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Proctor, Sir Stephen, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prospect, Ross, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prudhoe Castle, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prudhoe Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prynne, William, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ptolemy, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Puckaster Cove, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Purbeck, Isle of, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Purbeck marble, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Purkis, charcoal-burner, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Purley, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Putney, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Quarr Abbey, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Queens' College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Queen's College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Queen's House, Lyndhurst, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Queen's Tower, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Quicksall Lodge, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Race of Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Radcliffe Library, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Radcliffe, Mrs., <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Radford, smuggler, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Radley, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Radnor, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raglan Barracks, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raglan Castle, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raising of Lazarus, painting, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raleigh, Lady, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raleigh's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ralph, Bishop of Shrewsbury, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ralph, son of Geremund, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ramparts, Amesbury, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ramsgate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ranmore Common, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rat&aelig;, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ravine Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reading, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reading Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rebecca, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Red Bridge, Southampton Water, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Red Hill, Worcester, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Red Horse, the, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Red Lion Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Red Tower, York, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Redbrook, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Redburn, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Redlands Wood, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Redmoor Plain, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Redvers, Baldwin de, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reform Club, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Regent Fort, Jersey, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Regnum, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Regulus, King of Man, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reigate Castle, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Remigius, Bishop, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rennie, John, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reynard's Hall, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rheidol River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rhenass Waterfall, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rhodehoin, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rhuddlan Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ribble River, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rich, Edmund, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richard Crookback, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richard's Castle, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richard's greyhound, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richard of Bury, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richard, Prior, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richmond Castle, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richmond, Duke of, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richmond, Earl of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richmond Hill, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richmond, Rev. Legh, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ridd, Jan, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rievaulx Abbey, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rimmer, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ringwood, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ripon, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ripon, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ripon Minster, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robert, Earl of Moreton, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robert of Ewias, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robert of Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robert the Norman, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robert the Norman's Tomb, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robin Hood's Bay, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robin Hood's Cave, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robin Hood's Tower, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Robsart, Amy, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roche End, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rochester, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rochester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rock of Tiw, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rocket, the, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rocking Stone, Cardiff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roebuck Inn, Banbury, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roman remains, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roman villa, Morton, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roman wall, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Romilly, Young, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Romney, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Romney Marsh, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roodee, Chester, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rooke, Admiral, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rookery, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ros, Lord, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rosamond Clifford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rosamond's Bower, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rose Inn, Wokingham, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ross, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ross Church, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ross, Man of, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rother River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rotten Row, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rougemont Castle, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Roirgenront Hill, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Round Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Round Table, King Arthur's, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Round Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Round Tower, Windsor, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rowlstone, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rows, Chester, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rowsley, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rowtor, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal Albert Hall, London, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal Clarence Victualling Yard, Gosport, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal Exchange, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal George wrecked, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal Victoria Hospital, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal William Victualling Yard, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Royal Yacht Club, Cowes, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rufus's Stone, New Forest, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rumbald's Moor, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Runcorn, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Runnimede, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rupert, Prince, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rushen Castle, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Russell family, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Russell, John, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Russell, Lord, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Russell, Lord William, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Russel, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rutland, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rutland, Earl of, killed, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rutupi&aelig;, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rydal Mount, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ryde, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rye, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rye House, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Sacheverel, Dr., <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sackville-West, L. S., <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saffron, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saffron Walden, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saffron Walden Church, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Alban Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Albans, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Albans, battle, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Albans, Duke of, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Aldate's Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Aldhelm's Head, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Andrew's Cathedral, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Andrew's Spring, Wells, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">[Pg 534]</a></span>St. Anne's Well, Malvern, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Anthony's Chapel, Penzance, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Asaph, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Aubin Bay, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Aubin Village, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Aubyn family, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Augustine's Abbey, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Augustine's College, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Augustine's Monastery, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Bede, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Bede's Shrine, Durham, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Bernard, Mont, Monastery, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Boniface Church, Bonchurch, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Briard Castle, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Bride's Church, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's Chapel, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's Chapel, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's Down, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's Spring, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Catharine's Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Chad, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Clement's Church, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Clement Danes Church, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cross Hospital, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cuthbert, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cuthbert's Banner, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cuthbert's Chapel, Longstone, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cuthbert's Church, Wells, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Cuthbert's Shrine, Durham, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. David's, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. David's Chapel, Llanthony, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. David's Head, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Dunstan, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Edmund Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Edmund's Shrine, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Elericus, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Ethelbert's Shrine, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Etheldreda, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. George's Chapel, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. George's Statue, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Germain's Church, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Helier, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Herbert's Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Hilda, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Hugh's Shrine, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. James Palace, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. James Park, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. James's Statue, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's Chapel, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's Chapel, Peterborough, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's Chapel, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's Church, Cirencester, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's Church, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John's College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. John the Baptist Church, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Joseph's Chapel, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Lawrence Church, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Lawrence Church, Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Leonard's Chapel, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Leonard's Church, Hythe, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Margaret's Church, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Margaret's Church, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Martha's Chapel, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Martin's Church, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Martin's Church, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Martin's Church, Stamford, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary, Abbey, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Abbey, Tintern, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Abbey, York, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Bedgebury, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Saffron Walden, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Selborne, <a href='#Page_496'>496</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Tutbury, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church, Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's College, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Hall, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary-le-Bow Church, London, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary Redcliffe Church, Bristol, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Square, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Templar Church, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Well, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mary Winton College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Mawe's Castle, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Chair, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Chapel, Scyrrid Vawr, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Church, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Church, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Church, Verulam, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Mount, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Michael's Square, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Milburgh, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Chapel, Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Church, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Church, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Church, Romney, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Church, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Hospital, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Nicholas Isle, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Patrick, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Patrick's Causeway, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Paulinus, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Paul's Cathedral, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Cathedral, York, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Church, Rowlstone, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Church, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Church, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Church, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Church, Westminster, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Peter's Port, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Petrox Church, Dartmouth, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Sepulchre's Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Sidwell, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Stephen's Church, Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Stephen's Hall, Westminster, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Swithin's Church, London, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Swithin's Day, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Swithin's Shrine, Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas &agrave; Becket, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas &agrave; Becket Church, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas Cantelupe's Shrine, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas Church, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Vincent's Rocks, Bristol, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Werburgh, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Werburgh Cathedral, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Wilfrid, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Wilfrid's Church, Brading, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Wilfrid's Shrine, Ripon, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. William, Norwich, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. William's Shrine, York, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Winifrede, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Wulstan, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li>
+
+<li>St. Wulstan's Shrine, Worcester, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salcombe Hill, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salford, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury Cathedral, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury Chapel, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, Countess of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, Earl of, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salisbury Plain, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salt Tower, London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saltram Woods, Plym River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saluting Battery, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Salvin, architect, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sandown, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sandown Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sandsfoot Castle, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sandwich, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sandwich Haven, obstructions, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Newark, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Southwell, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Ware, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sarawak, Rajah of, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sark, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sarum, Old, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saville's Tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saxenhurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saxon Shore, Count of, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saxulf, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Saye and Sele, Lord, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scaleby Castle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scarborough, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scarborough, Earl of, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scarborough warning, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scar-burgh Castle, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scarlet, sexton, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scholfield, psalm singer, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Schomberg House, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scilly Islands, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sciont River, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scolland's Hall, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scotland Yard, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scott, Sir Gilbert, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scott, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scratchell's Cave, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scruffel Hill, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_535" id="Page_535">[Pg 535]</a></span>Scudamore, Earl of, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Scyrrid Vawr, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seathewaite. <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Segontium, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Selborne, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Selsey Bill, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Selwyn, Bishop, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Selwyn, George, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Senate House, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seneca Dying in the Bath, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Senior Wrangler, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Serpentine rocks, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>"Seven Ages of Man," Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seven Burrows, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sevenoaks, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Severn River, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seven Sisters, Fountains Dale, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seven Springs, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Severus, death, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seymour, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Seymour, Lord of Sudeley, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shaftesbury, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespear, John, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare, William, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare Memorial, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare Trust, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare's Cliff, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare's House, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shambles, York, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shanklin, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sharpham Woods, Dart River, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sharpitor, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shaugh, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheaf River, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheep, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheeps Tor, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheerness, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheffield, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheffield Castle, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheldonian Theatre, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shelley, Percy Bysshe, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shenstone, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherborne, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherborne Abbey, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherborne Bell, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherborne Castle, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherborne Grammar School, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherburne, Sir Nicholas, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheridan, Richard B., <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shifford, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shooter's Hill, Woolwich, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shoreham, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shottery, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Show Sunday, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shrewsbury, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shrewsbury Castle, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shrewsbury, Countess of, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shrewsbury, Earl of, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shrimps, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shropshire, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shuckburgh, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sherwood Forest, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sheyne Monastery, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sid River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidbury, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidbury Gate, Worcester, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidford, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Algernon, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Mary, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Sir Philip, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Sir William, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Silures' land, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Simnel, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Simnel cakes, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Simon's Seat, Bolton Abbey, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sissinghurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Six Chimblies, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sixtus V., Bible, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Skell River, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Skiddaw Forest, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Skiddaw, Mount, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Slannings, the, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Slaughter, the, Wye River, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Slave-trade, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sleeping Children's Tomb, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sloane, Sir Hans, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Slype, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Smeaton, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Smith, Sydney, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Smugglers, the, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Smuggling, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Snaefell, Mount, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Snodengahame, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Snow Hill, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Snowden, Mount, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Soar River, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Soho, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Solent, the, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Solway Firth, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Somers, Will, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Somerset, Duke of, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Somerset, Earl of, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Somerset House, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Somersetshire, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sonning, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sorrel, Mount, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+
+<li>South Downs, Sussex, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>South Foreland Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>South Kensington Museum, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li>
+
+<li>South Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southampton, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southampton Water, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southey, Robert, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southey, Robert, married, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southsea, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southsea Castle, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southwell, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Southwell Minster, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>South-western Railway, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sow River, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sow and Boar, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spa, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spanish Armada, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spencer-Churchill family, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spenser, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spit, the, Spithead, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spithead, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spread Eagle Inn, Epsom, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stafford Castle, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stafford, Lord, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stafford, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stafford, Thomas, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Staffordshire, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stag-hunting, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Staines, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stamford, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Standard, Battle of the, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, John, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanley House, Chester, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Sir Edward, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanleys, the, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stanton Harcourt, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stapleton, Walter, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Staunton Harold, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Staunton Lacey Church, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Staunton Tower, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Steele, Richaid. <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Steeple Rock, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stephen, King, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stephens, Nathaniel, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stephenson, George, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Steyning, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stocking-knitting, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stocks, the, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stoke, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stone Beam, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stone of Scone, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stonebow, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stonehouse, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stony Cross Hill, Minstead, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stonyhurst, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stour River, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stowe, Buckingham, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stowe, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stowell Park, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strafford, Lord, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strafford, Wentworth, Earl of, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strand Gate, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stratford-on-Avon, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strawberry Hill, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strid, the, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strong, Edward, tomb, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Strutt, Jedediah, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Studland Bay, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Studland Village, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Slukeley, Dr., <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stukely, Sir Lewis, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Submarine Cable, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sudbury, Archbishop, killed, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sudeley Castle, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sudwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Suffolk, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Suffolk, Duke of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Suffolk, Earl of, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sugar Loaf, Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sunday-school, first in England, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sunninghill, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sunningwell, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Surrey, Earl of, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Surrey Side, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sussex South Downs, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sutherland, Duke of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sutherland, Harriet, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sutton Pool, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sutton, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swale River, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swallow Fall, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swanage, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swanage Bay, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swannery, Abbotsbury, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">[Pg 536]</a></span>Swansea, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swansea Castle, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swanwich, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sweyne, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swift, Dean, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swift, Father, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Swynford, Katharine, tomb, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sydney Garden, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Sylva</i>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Symonds, Symond, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Symond's Yat, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Syntax, Dr., <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Tabard Inn, Southwark, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Taff River, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Talbot Arms, Newark, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Talbot, John, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Taliesin, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tamar River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tame River, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tamworth, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tankerfield, martyr, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tan-y-hutch, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Taplow, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tarquin, giant, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tatbury, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tavistock Abbey, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tavy River, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tawe River, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Taylor, Jeremy, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Teasels. <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Teddington Lock, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tees River. <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Teign River, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Teignmouth, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Teise River, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Temple Bar, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Temple, Sir William, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tenby Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tennyson, Alfred, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tenterden, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tenterden Steeple, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Test River, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tewkesbury Abbey, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tewkesbury Battle, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thackeray, W. M., <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thames Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thames Head, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thames River, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thanet Isle, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Theoe, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Theulf, Bishop, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thistledon, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thomson, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thoresby Hall, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thorney Island, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thornhill, Sir James, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thornton, John, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thorwaldsen's Jason, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Three Crowns Inn, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Throgmorton, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thrydwulf, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tidenham Rocks, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tilbury Fort, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Till River, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tillingham River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Times, London</i>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tip cat, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tin-mines, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tintagel Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tintern Abbey, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tintem Parva, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tissington Spires, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tiw, Rock of, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tom, Great, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tom Quad, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tombland, Norwich, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tone River, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tor Hill, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Torbay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Torquay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Torrent Walk, Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Torridge River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tostig, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Totnes, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Touching for King's Evil, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tower of London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tower Subway, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Town and Gown Quarrels, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Town Hall, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Town Hall, Hull, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Town Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Towton Battlefield, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Towy River, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tracy, Sir William, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trafalgar Square, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Traitor's Gate, Tower, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Treasury Building. London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trefriw, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trelawney, Bishop, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trent River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trentham Hall, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trewsbury Mead, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Triangular Bridge, Crowland, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tribunal, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tricengham, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity Chapel, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity Hall, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trinity House, Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tripos, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trothy River, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trowlesworthy, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trumpington, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Trumpington, Miller of, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tuck, Friar, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tun River, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tunbridge Castle, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tunbridge Wells, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tunstall, Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Turpin, Dick, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tutbury Castle, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tweed River, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Twelve Apostles, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Twickenham, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Two-Battle Farms, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Twynham, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tyler, Wat, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tyne River, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tyril, Walter, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tysen, Gilbert, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Ulverscroft, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Under the Shadow of the Cross, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Undercliff, the, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Underground Railway, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li>
+
+<li>University College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>University Library, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Upnor Castle, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ure River, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Uriconium, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Usk River, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Valle Crucis Abbey, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Valley of Deadly Nightshade, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Van Tromp, Admiral, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vanbrugh, John, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vandyck's Charles I., <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vandyck's masterpiece, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Varney, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+
+<li><i>Vathek</i>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vectis, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vellan Head, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Venta Belgarum, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ventnor, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Venus rising from the Bath, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ver River, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Verne Hill, Portland, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Verney, Sir Edmund, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vernon, Dorothy, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vernon, Sir George, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vernon, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Verulam, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vesci, Eustace de, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vicar of Bray, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vicar of Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vicar's Close, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria Gallery, Westminster, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria Park, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria, Queen, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria Regia, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria Spa, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria Tower, Westminster, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria's Birthplace, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria's Coronation, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria's First Court, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria's Marriage, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victory man-of war, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Victory, wreck, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vignals, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vikings' Invasion, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vineyard, the, Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vinney Ridge Heronry, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Virginia Water, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Virgins, Wise and Foolish, painting, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Vivian, John Henry, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Wadham College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wakefield Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walden, Abbey, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wales, Prince of, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wallingford, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wallsend, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walmer, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>-<a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walmer Castle, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walney Island, Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walpole, Horace, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walter, John, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walters, Lucy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Waltheof, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walton, Anne, tomb, Worcester, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Walton, Izaak, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>War Office, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_537" id="Page_537">[Pg 537]</a></span>Warbeck, Perkin, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warburton, Bishop, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ware, Great Bed of, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wareham, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warrenne, Earl, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warrington, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warwick, Earls of, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warwick the King-maker, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warwick Vase, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wash, the, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Watch-Tower, Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Watching Gallery, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Water Tower, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Waterford, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Waterloo Bridge, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Watersmeet, Lyn River, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Watersmouth, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Waynflete, William of, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weald of Kent, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weald of Sussex, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wear River, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weary-all Hill, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Webster, artist, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weddell, William, of Newby, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wedgewood, Josiah, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Welbeck Abbey, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Welland River, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weller, Samuel, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wellington, Duke of, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wellington Statue, London, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wellingtons Tomb, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wells, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wells Cathedral, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Welsh Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Welsh Pool, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wenlock Abbey, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wensum River, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West, Benjamin, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Cow, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Gate, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Lyn River, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West Pier, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westbury College, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westminster, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westminster Abbey, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westminster Bridge, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westminster, Duke of, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westminster Hall, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Westmorelandshire, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wesley, John, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wessex, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weston, George and Joseph, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weston Zoyland Church, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wey River, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>. <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weymouth, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weymouth Bay, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whaddon Hall, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whalley Abbey, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whalley, Richard, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wharfe River, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whippingham, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whispering Gallery, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whispering Gallery, St. Paul's, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitby, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitby Abbey, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitchurch, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Cloth Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Hart Inn, Ringwood, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Homestead, Whitby, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Horse Hill, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Horse Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Nore, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White, Rev. Gilbert, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>White Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitebait, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitecliff Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitehall, Westminster, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitgarasbyrg, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whiting, Abbot of Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whitney, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Whittingham, Dean, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Widemarsh, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Widvile, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wight, Isle of, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wigoma Ceaster, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilberforce, Bishop Samuel, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilberforce, Bishop Samuel, death, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilberforce, William, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilderness, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wiley River, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilfrid's Needle, Ripon, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilkes, John, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Willersley Castle, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Willis, Browne, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Willytown, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilmot, Lord, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William III., <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William III.'s landing-place, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William of Wykeham, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William, Prince, drowned, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William Rufus killed, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William Rufus tomb, Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William the Conqueror, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William the Conqueror's landing, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William the Lion, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li>
+
+<li>William the Norman, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilton carpet, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilton Castle, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilton House, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wiltshire, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wimborne Minster, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchelsea, Countess of, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchester, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchester Castle, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winchester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windermere, Lake, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windmills, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>, <a href='#Page_497'>497</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windrush River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windsor Castle, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windsor Park, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winstanley, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Winthuysen, Admiral, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wirral, the, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wise and Foolish Virgins, painting, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wise, Mount, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wishing Stone, Selborne, <a href='#Page_498'>498</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wiston Manor, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Witan of the Saxons, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Witch of Wookey, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Witches, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Witham River, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wnion River, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woburn Abbey, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wokingham, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wolsey, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wolvesey Castle, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wood, architect of Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wood, Dr., Dean of Ely, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woodmansterne, Epsom, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woodstock, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wookey Hole, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woolsack, the, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woolverton Chapel, Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Woolwich Dockyard, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worbarrow Bay, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester, battle. <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcester Sauce, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worcestershire Beacon, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wordsworth, William, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Worksop, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wormridge, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wotton Church, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wotton House, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wrexham Church, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wyatt's Rebellion, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wyche, the, Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wye River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wykeham, William of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wylam, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wyncliff, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wynnstay, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wyntour's Leap, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wytham Abbey, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Yar River, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yarmouth, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yealm River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yes Tor, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ynys-gwyth, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York, Archbishop of, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York Castle, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York, Duke of, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York, Duke of, killed, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>York Minster, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yorkshire, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yorkshire coast, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Yr Wyddgrug, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li><li>&nbsp;</li><li>Zinc-mines, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li>
+
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center">THE END.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND ***
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