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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:48:15 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:48:15 -0700 |
| commit | f50da1a08ecadd4a62f94c4cd8f59c8d98ba24c2 (patch) | |
| tree | 4b52f64d8c4795d994752896ec277aff1760d7d0 /29787-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '29787-h')
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diff --git a/29787-h/29787-h.htm b/29787-h/29787-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a58e85 --- /dev/null +++ b/29787-h/29787-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,25278 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of England Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.linenum { + position: absolute; + top: auto; + left: 4%; +} /* poetry number */ + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + +.bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + +.bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + +.bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + +.br {border-right: solid 2px;} + +.bbox {border: solid 2px;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 70%;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + margin-top: 3em; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: + 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.author {text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;} + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +div.backright { + background: top right no-repeat; + } + + div.backleft { + background: top left no-repeat; + } + + div.sandbag-left { + float:left; + clear:left; + padding-right: 10px; + } + + div.sandbag-right { + float:right; + clear:right; + padding-left: 10px; + } + + div.sandbag { + float:right; + clear:right; + padding-left:10px; +} + + + +ul.none {list-style-type: none;} + + + + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: England, Picturesque and Descriptive + A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel + +Author: Joel Cook + +Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29787] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND *** + + + + +Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="435" height="600" alt="ALTON TOWERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALTON TOWERS.</span> +</div> + + + + + + <h1>ENGLAND,<br /><br /> + + PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE.</h1> + + <h3>A</h3> + + <h2>REMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVEL.</h2> + + <h3>By JOEL COOK,</h3> + + <h4>AUTHOR OF "A HOLIDAY TOUR IN EUROPE," "BRIEF SUMMER RAMBLES," ETC.</h4> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;"> +<a name="title" id="title"></a> +<img src="images/title.jpg" width="326" height="450" alt="OLD MILL AT SELBORNE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD MILL AT SELBORNE.</span> +</div> + + <h4>WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.</h4> + + <p class="center">PHILADELPHIA; +<br /> +PORTER <span class="smcap">AND</span> COATES.<br /> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> + + Copyright<br /> + By PORTER & COATES,<br /> + 1882.<br /><br /> + +<span class="smcap">Press of Henry B. Ashmead, Philada.</span><br /> + +<span class="smcap">Electrotyped by Westcott & Thomson, Philada.</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <h4>TO</h4> + + <h3>JOHN WALTER, Esq.,<br /> + + MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR BERKSHIRE,</h3> + + <h4>AND</h4> + + <h3>PROPRIETOR OF THE LONDON TIMES,<br /> + + WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO WELCOME AMERICANS<br /> + + WITH TRUE ENGLISH HOSPITALITY,</h3> + + <h4>AND TO</h4> + + <h3>GIVE ENGLISHMEN A MORE ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF,<br /> + + AND MORE INTIMATE RELATIONS WITH,<br /> + + THE UNITED STATES,</h3> + + <h2>This Work on England,</h2> + + <h3>BY AN AMERICAN,<br /> + + IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED.</h3> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + +<p>No land possesses greater attractions for the American tourist than +England. It was the home of his forefathers; its history is to a great +extent the history of his own country; and he is bound to it by the +powerful ties of consanguinity, language, laws, and customs. When the +American treads the busy London streets, threads the intricacies of the +Liverpool docks and shipping, wanders along the green lanes of +Devonshire, climbs Alnwick's castellated walls, or floats upon the +placid bosom of the picturesque Wye, he seems almost as much at home as +in his native land. But, apart from these considerations of common +Anglo-Saxon paternity, no country in the world is more interesting to +the intelligent traveller than England. The British system of entail, +whatever may be our opinion of its political and economic merits, has +built up vast estates and preserved the stately homes, renowned castles, +and ivy-clad ruins of ancient and celebrated structures, to an extent +and variety that no other land can show. The remains of the abbeys, +castles, churches, and ancient fortresses in England and Wales that war +and time together have crumbled and scarred tell the history of +centuries, while countless legends of the olden time are revived as the +tourist passes them in review. England, too, has other charms than +these. British scenery, though not always equal in sublimity and +grandeur to that displayed in many parts of our own country, is +exceedingly beautiful, and has always been a fruitful theme of song and +story.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The splendor falls on castle-walls</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And snowy summits old in story:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The long light shakes across the lakes.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And the wild cataract leaps in glory."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Yet there are few satisfactory and comprehensive books about this land<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +that is so full of renowned memorials of the past and so generously +gifted by Nature. Such books as there are either cover a few counties or +are devoted only to local description, or else are merely guide-books. +The present work is believed to be the first attempt to give in +attractive form a book which will serve not only as a guide to those +about visiting England and Wales, but also as an agreeable reminiscence +to others, who will find that its pages treat of familiar scenes. It +would be impossible to describe everything within the brief compass of a +single book, but it is believed that nearly all the more prominent +places in England and Wales are included, with enough of their history +and legend to make the description interesting. The artist's pencil has +also been called into requisition, and the four hundred and eighty-seven +illustrations will give an idea, such as no words can convey, of the +attractions England presents to the tourist.</p> + +<p>The work has been arranged in eight tours, with Liverpool and London as +the two starting-points, and each route following the lines upon which +the sightseer generally advances in the respective directions taken. +Such is probably the most convenient form for the travelling reader, as +the author has found from experience, while a comprehensive index will +make reference easy to different localities and persons. Without further +introduction it is presented to the public, in the confident belief that +the interest developed in its subject will excuse any shortcomings that +may be found in its pages.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 2em;">Philadelphia</span>, July, 1882.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> + +<tr><th colspan="2">I</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;"> Liverpool—Birkenhead—Knowsley Hall—Chester—Cheshire—Eaton Hall—Hawarden Castle—Bidston—Congleton—Beeston + Castle—The river Dee—Llangollen—Valle-Crucis Abbey—Dinas Bran—Wynnstay—Pont + Cysylltau—Chirk Castle—Bangor-ys-Coed—Holt—Wrexham—The Sands o' Dee—North Wales—Flint Castle—Rhuddlan + Castle—Mold—Denbigh—St. Asaph—Holywell—Powys Castle—The Menai Strait—Anglesea—Beaumaris + Castle—Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Plas Newydd—Caernarvon Castle—Ancient Segontium—Conway + Castle—Bettws-y-Coed—Mount Snowdon—Port Madoc—Coast of Merioneth—Barmouth—St. + Patrick's Causeway—Mawddach Vale—Cader Idris—Dolgelly—Bala Lake—Aberystwith—Harlech Castle—Holyhead</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">II</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Lancashire—Warrington—Manchester—Furness Abbey—The Ribble—Stonyhurst—Lancaster Castle—Isle of + Man—Castletown—Rusben Castle—Peele Castle—The Lake Country—Windermere—Lodore Fall—Derwentwater—Keswick—Greta + Hall—Southey, Wordsworth, and Coleridge—Skiddaw—-The Border Castles—Kendal + Castle—Brougham Hall—The Solway—Carlisle Castle—Scaleby Castle—Naworth—Lord William + Howard</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">III</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Peak of Derbyshire—Castleton—Bess of Hardwicke—Hardwicke Hall—Bolsover Castle—The Wye and + the Derwent—Buxton—Bakewell—Haddon Hall—The King of the Peak—Dorothy Vernon—Rowsley—The + Peacock Inn—Chatsworth—The Victoria Regia—Matlock—Dovedale—Beauchief Abbey—Stafford + Castle—Trentham Hall—Tamworth—Tutbury Castle—Chartley Castle—Alton Towers—Shrewsbury Castle—Bridgenorth—Wenlock + Abbey—Ludlow Castle—The Feathers Inn—Lichfield Cathedral—Dr. Samuel + Johnson—Coventry—Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom—Belvoir Castle—Charnwood Forest—Groby and Bradgate—Elizabeth + Widvile and Lady Jane Grey—Ulverscroft Priory—Grace Dien Abbey—Ashby de la Zouche—Langley + Priory—Leicester Abbey and Castle—Bosworth Field—Edgehill—Naseby—The Land of Shakespeare—Stratford-on-Avon—Warwick—Kenilworth—Birmingham—Boulton + and Watt—Fotheringhay Castle—Holmby + House—Bedford Castle—John Bunyan—Woburn Abbey and the Russells—Stowe—Whaddon + Hall—Great Hampden—Creslow House</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_70'>70</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">IV</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Thames Head—Cotswold Hills—Seven Springs—Cirencester—Cheltenham—Sudeley Castle—Chavenage—Shifford—Lechlade—Stanton + Harcourt—Cumnor Hall—Fair Rosamond—Godstow Nunnery—Oxford—Oxford + Colleges—Christ Church—Corpus Christi—Merton—Oriel—All Souls—University—Queen's—Magdalen—Brasenose—New + College—Radcliffe Library—Bodleian Library—Lincoln—Exeter—Wadham—Keble—Trinity—Balliol—St. + John's—Pembroke—Oxford Churches—Oxford Castle—Carfax Conduit—Banbury—Broughton + Castle—Woodstock—Marlborough—Blenheim—Minster Lovel—Bicester—Eynsham—Abingdon—Radley—Bacon, + Rich, and Holt—Clifton-Hampden—Caversham—Reading—Maidenhead—Bisham Abbey—Vicar + of Bray—Eton College—Windsor Castle—Magna Charta Island—Cowey Stakes—Ditton—Twickenham—London—Fire + Monument—St. Paul's Cathedral—Westminster Abbey—The Tower—Lollards and + Lambeth—Bow Church—St. Bride's—Whitehall—Horse Guards—St. James Palace—Buckingham Palace—Kensington + Palace—Houses of Parliament—Hyde Park—Marble Arch—Albert Memorial—South Kensington + Museum—Royal Exchange—Bank of England—Mansion House—Inns of Court—British Museum—Some + London Scenes—The Underground Railway—Holland House—Greenwich—Tilbury Fort—The + Thames Mouth</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_137'>137</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">V</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Harrow—St. Albans—Verulam—Hatfield House—Lord Burleigh—Cassiobury—Knebworth—Great Bed of Ware—The + River Cam—Audley End—Saffron Walden—Newport—Nell Gwynne—Littlebury—Winstanley—Harwich—Cambridge—Trinity + and St. John's Colleges—Caius College—Trinity Hall—The Senate House—University + Library—Clare College—Great St. Mary's Church—King's College—Corpus Christi College—St. + Catharine's College—Queens' College—The Pitt Press—Pembroke College—Peterhouse—Fitzwilliam Museum—Hobson's + Conduit—Downing College—Emmanuel College—Christ's College—Sidney-Sussex College—The + Round Church—Magdalene College—Jesus College—Trumpington—The Fenland—Bury St. Edmunds—Hengrave + Hall—Ely—Peterborough—Crowland Abbey—Guthlac—Norwich Castle and Cathedral—Stamford—Burghley + House—George Inn—Grantham—Lincoln—Nottingham—Southwell—Sherwood Forest—Robin + Hood—The Dukeries—Thoresby Hall—Clumber Park—Welbeck Abbey—Newstead Abbey—Newark—Hull—Wilberforce—Beverley—Sheffield—Wakefield—Leeds—Bolton + Abbey—The Strid—Ripon Cathedral—Fountains + Abbey—Studley Royal—Fountains Hall—York—Eboracum—York Minster—Clifford's + Tower—Castle Howard—Kirkham Priory—Flamborough Head—Scarborough—Whitby Abbey—Durham + Cathedral and Castle—St. Cuthbert—The Venerable Bede—Battle of Neville's Cross—Chester-le-Street—Lumley + Castle—Newcastle-upon-Tyne—Hexham—Alnwick Castle—Hotspur and the Percies—St. Michael's + Church—Hulne Priory—Ford Castle—Flodden Field—The Tweed—Berwick—Holy Isle—Lindisfarne—Bamborough—Grace + Darling</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_224'>224</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">VI</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Cotswolds—The River Severn—Gloucester—Berkeley Castle—New Inn—Gloucester Cathedral—Lampreys—Tewkesbury; + its Mustard, Abbey, and Battle—Worcester; its Battle—Charles II.'s Escape—Worcester + Cathedral—The Malvern Hills—Worcestershire Beacon—Herefordshire Beacon—Great Malvern—St. Anne's + Well—The River Wye—Clifford Castle—Hereford—Old Butcher's Row—Nell Gwynne's Birthplace—Ross—The + Man of Ross—Ross Church and its Trees—Walton Castle—Goodrich Castle—Forest of Dean—Coldwell—Symond's + Vat—The Dowards—Monmouth—Kymin Hill—Raglan Castle—Redbrook—St. Briard Castle—Tintern + Abbey—The Wyncliff—Wyntour's Leap—Chepstow Castle—The River Monnow—The Golden + Valley—The Black Mountains—Pontrilas Court—Ewias Harold—Abbey Dore—The Scyrrid Vawr—Wormridge—Kilpeck—Oldcastle—Kentchurch—Grosmont—The + Vale of Usk—Abergavenny—Llanthony Priory—Walter + Savage Landor—Capel-y-Ffyn—Newport—Penarth Roads—Cardiff—The Rocking-Stone—Llandaff—Caerphilly + Castle and its Leaning Tower—Swansea—The Mumbles—Oystermouth Castle—Neath Abbey—Caermarthen—Tenby—Manorbeer + Castle—Golden Grove—Pembroke—Milford—Haverfordwest—Milford + Haven—Pictou Castle—Carew Castle</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_337'>337</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">VII</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">Virginia Water—Sunninghill—Ascot—Wokingham—Bearwood—The London Times—White Horse Hill—Box + Tunnel—Salisbury—Salisbury Plain—Old Sarum—Stonehenge—Amesbury—Wilton House—The Earls of + Pembroke—Carpet-making—Bath—William Beckford—Fonthill—Bristol—William Canynge—Chatterton—Clifton—Brandon + Hill—Well—The Mendips—Jocelyn—Beckington—Ralph of Shrewsbury—Thomas Ken—The + Cheddar Cliffs—The Wookey Hole—The Black Down—The Isle of Avelon—Glastonbury—Weary-all + Hill—Sedgemoor—The Isle of Athelney—Bridgewater—Oldmixon—Monmouth's Rebellion—Weston Zoyland—King + Alfred—Sherborne—Sir Walter Raleigh—The Coast of Dorset—Poole—Wareham—Isle of Purbeck—Corfe + Castle—The Foreland—Swanage—St. Aldhelm's Head—Weymouth—Portland Isle and Bill—The + Channel Islands—Jersey—Corbière Promontory—Mount Orgueil—Alderney—Guernsey—Castle Comet—The + Southern Coast of Devon—Abbotsbury—Lyme Regis—Axminster—Sidmouth—Exmouth—Exeter—William, + Prince of Orange—Exeter Cathedral—Bishop Trelawney—Dawlish—Teignmouth—Hope's Nose—Babbicombe + Bay—Anstis Cove—Torbay—Torquay—Brixham—Dartmoor—The River Dart—Totnes—Berry + Pomeroy Castle—Dartmouth—The River Plym—The Dewerstone—Plympton Priory—Sir Joshua Reynolds—Catwater + Haven—Plymouth—Stonehouse—Devonport—Eddystone Lighthouse—Tavistock Abbey—Buckland + Abbey—Lydford Castle—The Northern Coast of Devon—Exmoor—Minehead—Dunster—Dunkery + Beacon—Porlock Bay—The River Lyn—Oare—Lorna Doone—Jan Ridd—Lynton—Lynmouth—Castle + Rock—The Devil's Cheese-Ring—Combe Martin—Ilfracombe—Norte Point—Morthoe—Barnstable—Bideford—Clovelly—Lundy + Island—Cornwall—Tintagel—Launceston—Liskeard—Fowey—Lizard Peninsula—Falmouth—Pendennis + Castle—Helston—Mullyon Cove—Smuggling—Kynance Cove—The Post-Office—Old + Lizard Head—Polpeor—St. Michael's Mount—Penzance—Pilchard Fishery—Penwith—Land's End</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_384'>384</a></td></tr> + +<tr><th colspan="2">VIII</th></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align="left" colspan="2"><i>LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST.</i></th><td align="right"> </td></tr> + +<tr><td style="width: 85%;">The Surrey Side—The Chalk Downs—Guildford—The Hog's Back—Albury Down—Archbishop Abbot—St. + Catharine's Chapel—St. Martha's Chapel—Albury Park—John Evelyn—Henry Drummond—Aldershot + Camp—Leith Hill—Redland's Wood—Holmwood Park—Dorking—Weller and the Marquis of Granby Inn—Deepdene—Betchworth + Castle—The River Mole—Boxhill—The Fox and Hounds—The Denbies—Ranmore + Common—Battle of Dorking—Wotton Church—Epsom—Reigate—Pierrepoint House—Longfield—The + Weald of Kent—Goudhurst—Bedgebury Park—Kilndown—Cranbrook—Bloody Baker's Prison—Sissinghurst—Bayham + Abbey—Tunbridge Castle—Tunbridge Wells—Penshurst—Sir Philip Sidney—Hever + Castle—Anne Boleyn—Knole—Leeds Castle—Tenterden Steeple and the Goodwin Sands—Rochester—Gad's + Hill—Chatham—Canterbury Cathedral—St. Thomas à Becket—Falstaff Inn—Isle of Thanet—Ramsgate—Margate—North + Foreland—The Cinque Ports—Sandwich—Rutupiæ—Ebbsfleet—Goodwin Sands—Walmer + Castle—South Foreland—Dover—Shakespeare's Cliff—Folkestone—Hythe—Romney—Dungeness—Rye—Winchelsea—Hastings—Pevensey—Hailsham—Hurstmonceux + Castle—Beachy Head—Brighton—The + Aquarium—The South Downs—Dichling Beacon—Newhaven—Steyning—Wiston Manor—Chanctonbury + Ring—Arundel Castle—Chichester—Selsey Bill—Goodwood—Bignor—Midhurst—Cowdray—Dunford + House—Selborne—Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and church—Greatham Church—Winchester—The + New Forest—Lyndhurst—Minstead Manor—Castle Malwood—Death of William Rufus—Rufus's + Stone—Beaulieu Abbey—Brockenhurst—Ringwood—Lydington—Christchurch—Southampton—Netley + Abbey—Calshot Castle—The Solent—Portsea Island—Portsmouth—Gosport—Spithead—The Isle of + Wight—High Down—Alum Bay—Yarmouth—Cowes—Osborne House—Ryde—Bratling—Sandown—Shanklin + Chine—Bonchurch—The Undercliff—Ventnor—Niton—St. Lawrence Church—St. Catharine's Down—Blackgang + Chine—Carisbrooke Castle—Newport—Freshwater—Brixton—The Needles</td><td valign="bottom" align="right" style="width: 15%;" ><a href='#Page_463'>463</a></td></tr> + +</table></div> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 565px;"> +<img src="images/p010.jpg" width="565" height="600" alt="MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH.</span></div> + +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="80%" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS"> +<tr><td align='left'>Alton Towers</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><i>Frontispiece.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Old Mill, Selborne</td><td align='right'><a href='#title'><i>Title-Page.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Market-place, Peterborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'><i>After Contents.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Pottergate, Alnwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Perch Rock Light</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. George's Hall, Liverpool</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_19'>19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chester Cathedral, Exterior</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chester Cathedral, Interior</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ancient Front, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>God's Providence House, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-1'>23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-1'>23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Lamb Row, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p023-3'>23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stanley House, Front, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stanley House, Rear, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p024-2'>24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Phœnix Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p025-1'>25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Water Tower, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p025-1'>25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Abbey Gale, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of St. John's Chapel, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plas Newydd, Llangollen</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_28'>28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p029'>29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wynnstay</td><td align='right'><a href='#p030-1'>30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pont Cysylltau</td><td align='right'><a href='#p030-2'>30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wrexham Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p031'>31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Roodee, from the Railway-bridge, Chester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p032'>32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Sands o' Dee"</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Menai Strait</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_36'>36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beaumaris Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bangor Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Caernarvon Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p039'>39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Conway Castle, from the Road to Llanrwst</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Falls of the Conway</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'>41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Swallow Falls</td><td align='right'><a href='#p042'>42</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Llanrwst Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_43'>43</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Barmouth</td><td align='right'><a href='#p044'>44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Barmouth Estuary</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cader Idris, on the Taly-slyn Ascent</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'>46</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rhayadr-y-Mawddach</td><td align='right'><a href='#p046'>46</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_47'>47</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Owen Glendower's Parliament House, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#p047'>47</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lower Bridge, Torrent Walk, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bala Lake</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Aberystwith</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_49'>49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Harlech Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_50'>50</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Market, Warrington</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manchester Cathedral, from the South-east</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_53'>53</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Assize Courts, Manchester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Royal Exchange, Manchester</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Furness Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_56'>56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Square, Lancaster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p058'>58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bradda Head, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kirk Bradden, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rhenass Waterfall, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_60'>60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Rushen, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_61'>61</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Peele Castle, Isle of Man</td><td align='right'><a href='#p063'>63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Glimpse of Derwentwater, from Scafell</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Falls of Lodore, Derwentwater</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Road through the Cathedral Close, Carlisle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View on the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_69'>69</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Peveril Castle, Castleton</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_71'>71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hardwicke Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hardwicke Hall, Elizabethan Staircase</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bolsover Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_74'>74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Crescent, Buxton</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_75'>75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bakewell Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'>76</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, from the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_77'>77</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, Entrance to Banquet-hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'>78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Haddon Hall, the Terrace</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_79'>79</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Peacock Inn from the Road</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, from the South-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p081-2'>81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, Door to State Drawing-room</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_82'>82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, State Drawing-room</td><td align='right'><a href='#p082-2'>82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, State Bedroom</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, the Sculpture-gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_84'>84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chatsworth House, Gateway to Stable</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_85'>85</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>High Tor, Matlock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p085-2'>85</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Straits, Dovedale</td><td align='right'><a href='#p086-1'>86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Banks of the Dove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p086-2'>86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tissington Spires, Dovedale</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_87'>87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Trentham Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p089'>89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Trentham Hall—on the Terrace</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_90'>90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shrewsbury Castle, from the Railway-station</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_93'>93</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Head-quarters of Henry VII. on his Way to Bosworth Field, Shrewsbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_94'>94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p094-2'>94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, from near Oldbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, Keep of the Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_95'>95</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bridgenorth, House where Bishop Percy was born</td><td align='right'><a href='#p0961'>96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lodge of Much Wenlock Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p0961'>96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wenlock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p097'>97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ludlow Castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p098'>98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ludlow Castle, Entrance to the Council-chamber</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p101'>101</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, Interior, looking West</td><td align='right'><a href='#p102'>101</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lichfield Cathedral, Rear View</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1022'>102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dr. Johnson's Birthplace, Lichfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p103'>103</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coventry Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_105'>105</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coventry</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_106'>106</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Bradgate House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p108'>108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Ulverscroft Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_109'>109</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Grace Dieu Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_110'>110</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leicester Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p111'>111</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Newgate Street, Leicester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p112'>112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Edgehill</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_113'>113</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Edgehill, Mill at</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_115'>115</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Church and Market-hall, Market Harborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#p117'>117</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shakespeare's House, Stratford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_118'>118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p119'>119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Warwick Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_120'>120</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leicester's Hospital, Warwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1221'>122</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oblique Gables in Warwick</td><td align='right'><a href='#p1222'>122</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kenilworth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_123'>123</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Martin's Church, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p124'>124</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Aston Hall, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p125'>125</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Aston Hall, the "Gallery of the Presence"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p126'>126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Town-hall, Birmingham</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_127'>127</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Elstow, Bedford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p130'>130</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Elstow Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_130'>130</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Elstow Church, North Door</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_131'>131</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_132'>132</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, the Sculpture-gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_133'>133</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Woburn Abbey, Entrance to the Puzzle garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p134'>134</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Thames Head</td><td align='right'><a href='#p138'>138</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dovecote, Stanton Harcourt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p140'>140</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cumnor Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_141'>141</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Godstow Nunnery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p142'>142</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Oxford, from the Cherwell</td><td align='right'><a href='#p143'>143</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Stone Pulpit</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-1'>144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Bow Window</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-1'>144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gable at St. Aldate's College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-3'>144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dormer Window, Merton College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p144-3'>144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gateway of Christ Church College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_145'>145</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Merton College Chapel, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p146'>146</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Merton College Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p146-2'>146</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oriel College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p147'>147</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College Cloisters, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p148'>148</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College, Founders' Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p149'>149</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magdalen College</td><td align='right'><a href='#p150'>150</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New College, Oxford, from the Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_151'>151</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New College</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-1'>152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Radcliffe Library, from the Quadrangle of Brasenose, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-2'>152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dining-hall, Exeter College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p152-1'>153</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Trinity College Chapel, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p153-2'>153</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Window in St. John's College, Garden Front, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p154-1'>154</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tower St. John's College, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p154-1'>154</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Mary the Virgin, from High Street, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_155'>155</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>All Saints, from High Street, Oxford</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Carfax Conduit</td><td align='right'><a href='#p157-1'>157</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Iffley Mill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p157-2'>157</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Iffley Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p158'>158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cromwell's Parliament-house, Banbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_159'>159</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Berks and Wilts Canal</td><td align='right'><a href='#p160'>160</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chaucer's House, Woodstock</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_161'>161</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Remains at Woodstock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p162'>162</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Blenheim Palace, from the Lake</td><td align='right'><a href='#p163'>163</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bicester Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p165'>165</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bicester Market</td><td align='right'><a href='#p166-1'>166</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cross at Eynsham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p166'>166</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to Abingdon Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p167'>167</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Radley Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p168'>168</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Thames at Clifton-Hampden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p170'>170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bray Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p171'>171</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eton College, from the Playing Fields</td><td align='right'><a href='#p173'>173</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eton College, from the Cricket-ground</td><td align='right'><a href='#p173'>173</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, from the Brocas</td><td align='right'><a href='#p174-1'>174</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle Round Tower, West End</td><td align='right'><a href='#p175'>175</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, Queen's Rooms in South-east Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p176'>176</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windsor Castle, Interior of St. George's Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#p177'>177</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magna Charta Island</td><td align='right'><a href='#p178'>178</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Monument, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p180'>180</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p182'>182</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, South Side</td><td align='right'><a href='#p183-1'>183</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, the Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p183-1'>183</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul's Cathedral, Wellington Monument</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_184'>184</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p185'>185</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, Cloisters of</td><td align='right'><a href='#p186'>186</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, Interior of Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p187'>187</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Westminster Abbey, King Henry VII.'s Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_188'>188</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Tower of London, Views in</td><td align='right'><a href='#p191'>191</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Church of St. Peter, on Tower Green</td><td align='right'><a href='#p193'>193</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_194'>194</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Mary-le-Bow, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p195-1'>195</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Bride's, Fleet Street, London.</td><td align='right'><a href='#p195-1'>195</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chapel Royal, Whitehall, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_196'>196</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chapel Royal, Interior of (Banqueting-hall)</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_197'>197</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Horse Guards, from the Parade-ground, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p198'>198</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gateway of St. James Palace, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_199'>199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Buckingham Palace, Garden Front, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_200'>200</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kensington Palace, West Front, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p201'>201</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p203'>203</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of the House of Commons</td><td align='right'><a href='#p204'>204</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London Principal Entrance New Museum of Natural History,</td><td align='right'><a href='#p205'>205</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p206'>206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>South Kensington, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p207'>207</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Royal Exchange, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p208-1'>208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bank of England, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p208-2'>208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mansion House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p209'>209</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Law Courts, London<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p210'>210</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sir Paul Finder's House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p211'>211</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Waterloo Bridge, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p212'>212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Schomberg House, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p213-1'>213</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Statue of Sidney Herbert, Pall Mall, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p213-2'>213</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Doorway, Beaconsfield Club, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p214-1'>214</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cavendish Square, London</td><td align='right'><a href='#p214-2'>214</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Bell Inn" at Edmonton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p215'>215</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Old Tabard Inn," London.</td><td align='right'><a href='#p216'>216</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, South Side</td><td align='right'><a href='#p217'>217</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, Dining-Room</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_218'>218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, the Dutch Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p218-2'>218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, the Library</td><td align='right'><a href='#p219-1'>219</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Holland House, Rogers's Seat in the Dutch Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p219-2'>219</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Greenwich Hospital, from the River</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_221'>221</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>London, from Greenwich Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_222'>222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Albans, from Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p225'>225</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Wall at Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p226-1'>226</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Monastery Gate, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p226-2'>226</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Tower of the Abbey, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p227-1'>227</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Staircase to Watching Gallery, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p227-1'>227</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shrine and Watching Gallery, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p228'>228</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clock Tower, St. Albans</td><td align='right'><a href='#p229-1'>229</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Barnard's Heath</td><td align='right'><a href='#p229-2'>229</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Michael's, Verulam</td><td align='right'><a href='#p230'>230</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Queen Elizabeth's Oak, Hatfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p231'>231</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hatfield House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p232'>232</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hatfield House, the Corridor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p233'>233</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View through Old Gateway, Hatfield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p234'>234</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Audley End, Western Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p235'>235</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Views in Saffron Walden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p237'>237</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Town-hall.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Church.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Entrance to the Town.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jetties at Harwich</td><td align='right'><a href='#p238'>238</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bridge, St. John's College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p239'>239</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hall of Trinity College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p241'>241</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. John's Chapel, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p242'>242</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Back of Clare College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p244'>244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>King's College Chapel—Interior—Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p245'>245</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>King's College Chapel, Doorway of</td><td align='right'><a href='#p246'>246</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Scenes in Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p247'>247</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Senate House.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Pitt Press.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Great St. Mary's.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Fitzwilliam Museum.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Round Church.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Jesus College, Cambridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p249'>249</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hengrave Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p250-1'>250</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Road leading to Ely Close</td><td align='right'><a href='#p250-2'>250</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ely Cathedral, from the Railway Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p251'>251</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Bits in Ely</td><td align='right'><a href='#p252'>252</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Passage from Ely Street to Cathedral Ford.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Entrance to Prior Crawdon's Chapel.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Old Houses In High Street.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Peterborough Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p253'>253</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Peterborough Cathedral, Aisle and Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p254'>254</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>East End of Crowland Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p255'>255</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p257'>257</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p258'>258</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Cathedral—the Choir, looking East</td><td align='right'><a href='#p259'>259</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Norwich Market-place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p260'>260</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Burghley House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p261'>261</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lincoln Cathedral, from the South-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p264'>264</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>"Bits" from Lincoln</td><td align='right'><a href='#p265'>265</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Cloisters</span>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Angel Choir.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The High Bridge.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nottingham Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p267'>267</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Southwell Minster and Ruins of the Archbishop's Palace</td><td align='right'><a href='#p268'>268</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Southwell Minster, the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p269'>269</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clumber Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p271'>271</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Welbeck Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p272'>272</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Newark Castle, Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p274'>274</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Newark Castle and Dungeon</td><td align='right'><a href='#p275'>275</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Newark Market-square</td><td align='right'><a href='#p276-1'>276</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Newark Church, looking from the North</td><td align='right'><a href='#p276-2'>276</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Humber at Hull</td><td align='right'><a href='#p277'>277</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>House where Wilberforce was born, Hull</td><td align='right'><a href='#p278-1'>278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beverley, Entrance-Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p278-2'>278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beverley, Market-square</td><td align='right'><a href='#p279'>279</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manor House, Sheffield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p280'>280</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to the Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p281'>281</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p282'>282</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wakefield</td><td align='right'><a href='#p283'>283</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Briggate, Leeds, looking North</td><td align='right'><a href='#p283'>283</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. John's Church, Leeds</td><td align='right'><a href='#p284'>284</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bolton Abbey, Gateway in the Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p286-1'>286</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bolton Abbey, the Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p286-2'>286</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Strid</td><td align='right'><a href='#p287'>287</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ripon Minster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p288'>288</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Studley Royal Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p289'>289</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Abbey, the Transept</td><td align='right'><a href='#p290'>290</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Abbey, Tower and Crypt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p291'>291</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fountains Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p292'>292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Richmond Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p293'>293</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Multangular Tower and Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p294'>294</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Micklegate Bar and the Red Tower, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p297'>297</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>York Minster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p298'>298</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>York Minster, the Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p299'>299</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>York Minster, Tomb of Archbishop DeGrey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p300'>300</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clifford's Tower, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p301'>301</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Shambles, York</td><td align='right'><a href='#p302'>302</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, South Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p303'>303</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, the Obelisk</td><td align='right'><a href='#p304'>304</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Howard, the Temple, with the Mausoleum in the distance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p305'>305</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gateway, Kirkham Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p306'>306</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Scarborough Spa and Esplanade</td><td align='right'><a href='#p308'>308</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Scarborough, from the Sea</td><td align='right'><a href='#p309'>309</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Whitby Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p311'>311</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham, General View of the Cathedral and Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p312'>312</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham Castle, Norman Doorway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p313'>313</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, from an old Homestead on the Wear</td><td align='right'><a href='#p315'>315</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p316'>316</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Choir, looking West</td><td align='right'><a href='#p317'>317</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Durham Cathedral, the Galilee and Tomb of Bede</td><td align='right'><a href='#p318'>318</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lumley Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p320'>320</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lumley Castle, Gateway from the Walk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p321'>321</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hexham</td><td align='right'><a href='#p322'>322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, from the Lion bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p323-1'>323</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p323-2'>323</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican</td><td align='right'><a href='#p324'>324</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Barbican, Eastern Angle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p325'>325</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Percy Bedstead</td><td align='right'><a href='#p326-2'>326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, the Percy Cross</td><td align='right'><a href='#p326-2'>326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Constable's Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p327'>327</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Earl Hugh's Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p328'>328</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Draw-Well and Norman Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p329-1'>329</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Gravestone in the Churchyard of St. Michael's and All Angels</td><td align='right'><a href='#p329-2'>329</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alnwick Castle, Font Lectern, St. Michael's Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p330-1'>330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hulne Priory, Porter's Lodge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p330-2'>330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ford Tower, overlooking Flodden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p331'>331</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Cheviots, from Ford Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p332'>332</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Flodden, from the King's Bedchamber, Ford Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p333'>333</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ford Castle, the Crypt</td><td align='right'><a href='#p335'>335</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grace Darling's Monument, Bamborough</td><td align='right'><a href='#p336'>336</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester Cathedral, from the South-east</td><td align='right'><a href='#p338'>338</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester, the New Inn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p340'>340</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gloucester Cathedral, the Monks' Lavatory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p342'>342</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p343'>343</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury Abbey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p344'>344</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tewkesbury Abbey, Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p345'>345</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Worcester Cathedral, from the Severn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p346'>346</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Worcester Cathedral, Choir</td><td align='right'><a href='#p348'>348</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of the Guesten Hall, Worcester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p349'>349</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Close in Worcester</td><td align='right'><a href='#p350'>350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Anne's Well, Malvern</td><td align='right'><a href='#p352'>352</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Butchers' Row, Hereford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p353-1'>353</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Out-house where Nell Gwynne was born, Hereford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p353-2'>353</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hereford Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p354'>354</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hereford Cathedral, Old Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p355'>355</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='left'>Ross, House of the "Man of Ross"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p356'>356</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ross Market-place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p357'>357</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ross Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p358-1'>358</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ross Church, the Tree, in</td><td align='right'><a href='#p358-2'>358</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Goodrich Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p359'>359</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bend in the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#p360'>360</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Symond's Yat, the Wye</td><td align='right'><a href='#p361'>361</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Monmouth Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p363-1'>363</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Monmouth Bridge, Gate on</td><td align='right'><a href='#p363-2'>363</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Raglan Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p364'>364</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tintern Abbey, from the Highroad</td><td align='right'><a href='#p365'>365</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chepstow Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p368'>368</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pontrilas Court</td><td align='right'><a href='#p370'>370</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Scyrrid Vawr</td><td align='right'><a href='#p371'>371</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Llanthony Priory, looking down the Nave</td><td align='right'><a href='#p373'>373</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Llanthony Priory, the South Transept</td><td align='right'><a href='#p374'>374</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Swansea, North Dock</td><td align='right'><a href='#p377'>377</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Swansea Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p378'>378</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Mumbles</td><td align='right'><a href='#p379'>379</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oystermouth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p380'>380</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Neath Abbey, ruins</td><td align='right'><a href='#p381'>381</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bearwood, Berkshire, Residence of John Walter, Esq., proprietor of <i>London Times</i></td><td align='right'><a href='#p385'>385</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Salisbury Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p387'>387</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Salisbury Market</td><td align='right'><a href='#p388'>388</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stonehenge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p390'>390</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p392'>392</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, Fireplace in Double Cube Room</td><td align='right'><a href='#p393-1'>393</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, the Library</td><td align='right'><a href='#p393-2'>393</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wilton House, the Library Window</td><td align='right'><a href='#p394'>394</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bristol Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#p398'>398</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Norman Doorway, College Green, Bristol</td><td align='right'><a href='#p399'>399</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol</td><td align='right'><a href='#p400'>400</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, from the Bishop's Garden</td><td align='right'><a href='#p401'>401</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, from the Swan Pool</td><td align='right'><a href='#p402'>402</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wells Cathedral, View under Central Tower</td><td align='right'><a href='#p403'>403</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wells, Ruins of the Old Banquet-Hall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p404'>404</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Entrance to the Cheddar Cliffs, Wells</td><td align='right'><a href='#p405'>405</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>High Rocks at Cheddar, Wells</td><td align='right'><a href='#p406'>406</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Glastonbury Tribunal</td><td align='right'><a href='#p408'>408</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sedgemoor, from Cock Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p409'>409</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Weston Zoyland Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p410'>410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Isle of Athelney</td><td align='right'><a href='#p412'>412</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sherbourne</td><td align='right'><a href='#p413'>413</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Corfe Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p416'>416</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Studland Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p418'>418</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Old Cross in the Churchyard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p418'>418</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Aldhelm's Head</td><td align='right'><a href='#p419'>419</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Portland Isle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p420'>420</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Corbière Lighthouse, Jersey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p422'>422</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View from Devil's Hole, Jersey</td><td align='right'><a href='#p423'>423</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, West Front</td><td align='right'><a href='#p425'>425</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Ruins of Rougemont Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p426-1'>426</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Old Houses in Cathedral Close</td><td align='right'><a href='#p426-2'>426</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, from the North-west</td><td align='right'><a href='#p427'>427</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, Bishop's Throne</td><td align='right'><a href='#p428'>428</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter Cathedral, Minstrel Gallery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p429-1'>429</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter, Guildhall</td><td align='right'><a href='#p429-2'>429</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Babbicombe Bay</td><td align='right'><a href='#p430'>430</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Austis Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p431'>431</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Totnes, from the river</td><td align='right'><a href='#p432'>432</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Berry Pomeroy Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p433'>433</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Bend of the Dart</td><td align='right'><a href='#p434-1'>434</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dartmouth Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p434-2'>434</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Dewerstone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p435'>435</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vale of Bickleigh</td><td align='right'><a href='#p436'>436</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plympton Priory, Old Doorway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href='#p437'>437</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Minehead</td><td align='right'><a href='#p440'>440</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dunster</td><td align='right'><a href='#p441'>441</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>On Porlock Moor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p442'>442</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Doone Valley</td><td align='right'><a href='#p443'>443</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bagworthy Water</td><td align='right'><a href='#p444-1'>444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jan Ridd's Tree</td><td align='right'><a href='#p444-2'>444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View on the East Lyn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p445-1'>445</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castle Rock, Lynton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p445-2'>445</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p446-1'>446</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tower on Beach, Lynmouth</td><td align='right'><a href='#p446-2'>447</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ilfracombe</td><td align='right'><a href='#p447'>447</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Morte Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p449'>449</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bideford Bridge</td><td align='right'><a href='#p450-1'>450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clovelly, Main Street</td><td align='right'><a href='#p450-2'>450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Clovelly, Old Houses on Beach</td><td align='right'><a href='#p451'>451</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fowey Pier</td><td align='right'><a href='#p452'>452</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pendennis Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p454'>454</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mullyon Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p455'>455</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lion Rock, with Mullyon in the distance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p456-1'>456</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cave at Mullyon</td><td align='right'><a href='#p456-2'>456</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pradenack Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p457-1'>457</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kynance Cove</td><td align='right'><a href='#p457-2'>457</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Post-Office, Kynance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p458'>458</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Polpeor</td><td align='right'><a href='#p459-1'>459</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rocks near the Lizard</td><td align='right'><a href='#p459-2'>459</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Michael's Mount</td><td align='right'><a href='#p460'>460</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Market, Penzance</td><td align='right'><a href='#p461'>461</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Land's End</td><td align='right'><a href='#p462'>462</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>High Street, Guildford</td><td align='right'><a href='#p464'>464</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel</td><td align='right'><a href='#p466'>466</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leith Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p467'>467</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Dovecote, Holmwood Park</td><td align='right'><a href='#p468'>468</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White Horse Inn, Dorking</td><td align='right'><a href='#p469'>469</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pierrepoint House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p472'>472</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Longfield, East Sheen</td><td align='right'><a href='#p473'>473</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Sissinghurst</td><td align='right'><a href='#p475'>475</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tunbridge Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p476-1'>476</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Penshurst Place</td><td align='right'><a href='#p476-2'>476</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Penshurst Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p477'>477</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hever Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p478-1'>478</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Leeds Castle, Gateway</td><td align='right'><a href='#p478-2'>478</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rochester Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p480'>480</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Canterbury</td><td align='right'><a href='#p481'>481</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Canterbury, Falstaff Inn</td><td align='right'><a href='#p483'>483</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sandwich, the Barbican</td><td align='right'><a href='#p485'>485</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dover Castle, the Pharos</td><td align='right'><a href='#p487-1'>487</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dover Cattle, Saluting-Battery Gate</td><td align='right'><a href='#p487-2'>487</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rye, Old Houses</td><td align='right'><a href='#p488'>488</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hurstmonceux Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p490'>490</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arundel Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#p494-1'>494</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruins of Cowdray</td><td align='right'><a href='#p494-2'>494</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Gilbert White's House</td><td align='right'><a href='#p495'>495</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Gilbert White's Sun-Dial</td><td align='right'><a href='#p496-1'>496</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Selborne Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p496-2'>496</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Rocky Lane to Alton</td><td align='right'><a href='#p497'>497</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Selborne, Wishing-Stone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p498'>498</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Greatham Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p499'>499</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Winchester, Cardinal Beaufort's Gate and Brewery</td><td align='right'><a href='#p500'>500</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, from Bramble Hill</td><td align='right'><a href='#p502'>502</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, Rufus's Stone</td><td align='right'><a href='#p503'>503</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New Forest, Brockenhurst Church</td><td align='right'><a href='#p505'>505</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch, the Priory from the Quay and Place Mills</td><td align='right'><a href='#p506'>506</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch</td><td align='right'><a href='#p507'>507</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Christchurch, Old Norman House and View from Priory</td><td align='right'><a href='#p508'>508</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Portsmouth Point</td><td align='right'><a href='#p510'>510</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Portsmouth, H.M.S. "Victory"</td><td align='right'><a href='#p511'>511</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cowes Harbor, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p512'>512</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Needles, from Alum Bay, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p513-1'>513</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yarmouth, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p513-2'>513</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Osborne House, from the Sea, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p514'>514</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p516'>516</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Undercliff, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p517'>517</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Carisbrooke Castle, looking from Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p519'>519</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tennyson's House, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p521'>521</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Needles, Isle of Wight</td><td align='right'><a href='#p522'>522</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;"> +<img src="images/p016.jpg" width="381" height="600" alt="THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><br /><br /><a name="England_Picturesque_and_Descriptive" id="England_Picturesque_and_Descriptive"></a><span class="smcap">England, Picturesque and Descriptive.</span><br /><br /></h2> + +<h3>I.</h3> + +<h3>LIVERPOOL WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Liverpool—Birkenhead—Knowsley Hall—Chester—Cheshire—Eaton +Hall—Hawarden Castle—Bidston—Congleton—Beeston Castle—The +river Dee—Llangollen—Valle-Crucis Abbey—Dinas +Bran—Wynnstay—Pont Cysylltau—Chirk +Castle—Bangor-ys-Coed—Holt—Wrexham—The Sands o' Dee—North +Wales—Flint Castle—Rhuddlan Castle—Mold—Denbigh—St. +Asaph—Holywell—Powys Castle—The Menai +Strait—Anglesea—Beaumaris Castle—Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Plas +Newydd—Caernarvon Castle—Ancient Segontium—Conway +Castle—Bettws-y-Coed—Mount Snowdon—Port Madoc—Coast of +Merioneth—Barmouth—St. Patrick's Causeway—Mawddach Vale—Cader +Idris—Dolgelly—Bala Lake—Aberystwith—Harlech Castle—Holyhead.</p></div> + + +<h3>LIVERPOOL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p017.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT.</span> +</div> + +<p>The American transatlantic tourist, after a week or more spent upon the +ocean, is usually glad to again see the land. After skirting the bold +Irish coast, and peeping into the pretty cove of Cork, with Queenstown +in the background, and passing the rocky headlands of Wales, the steamer +that brings him from America carefully enters the Mersey River. The +shores are low but picturesque as the tourist moves along the estuary +between the coasts of Lancashire and Cheshire, and passes the great +beacon standing up solitary and alone amid the waste of waters, the +Perch Rock Light off New Brighton on the Cheshire side. Thus he comes to +the world's greatest seaport—Liverpool—and the steamer finally drops +her anchor between the miles of docks that front the two cities, +Liverpool on the left and Birkenhead on the right. Forests of masts loom +up behind the great dock-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>walls, stretching far away on either bank, +while a fleet of arriving or departing steamers is anchored in a long +line in mid-channel. Odd-looking, low, black tugs, pouring out thick +smoke from double funnels, move over the water, and one of them takes +the passengers alongside the capacious structure a half mile long, built +on pontoons, so it can rise and fall with the tides, and known as the +Prince's Landing-Stage, where the customs officers perform their brief +formalities and quickly let the visitor go ashore over the fine floating +bridge into the city.</p> + +<p>At Liverpool most American travellers begin their view of England. It is +the great city of ships and sailors and all that appertains to the sea, +and its 550,000 population are mainly employed in mercantile life and +the myriad trades that serve the ship or deal in its cargo, for fifteen +thousand to twenty thousand of the largest vessels of modern commerce +will enter the Liverpool docks in a year, and its merchants own +7,000,000 tonnage. Fronting these docks on the Liverpool side of the +Mersey is the great sea-wall, over five miles long, behind which are +enclosed 400 acres of water-surface in the various docks, that are +bordered by sixteen miles' length of quays. On the Birkenhead side of +the river there are ten miles of quays in the docks that extend for over +two miles along the bank. These docks, which are made necessary to +accommodate the enormous commerce, have cost over $50,000,000, and are +the crowning glory of Liverpool. They are filled with the ships of all +nations, and huge storehouses line the quays, containing products from +all parts of the globe, yet chiefly the grain and cotton, provisions, +tobacco, and lumber of America. Railways run along the inner border of +the docks on a street between them and the town, and along their tracks +horses draw the freight-cars, while double-decked passenger-cars also +run upon them with broad wheels fitting the rails, yet capable of being +run off whenever the driver wishes to get ahead of the slowly-moving +freight-cars. Ordinary wagons move upon Strand street alongside, with +horses of the largest size drawing them, the huge growth of the +Liverpool horses being commensurate with the immense trucks and vans to +which these magnificent animals are harnessed.</p> + +<p>Liverpool is of great antiquity, but in the time of William the +Conqueror was only a fishing-village. Liverpool Castle, long since +demolished, was a fortress eight hundred years ago, and afterward the +rival families of Molineux and Stanley contended for the mastery of the +place. It was a town of slow growth, however, and did not attain full +civic dignity till the time of Charles I. It was within two hundred +years that it became a seaport of any note. The first dock was opened in +1699, and strangely enough it was the African slave-trade that gave the +Liverpool merchants their original start. The port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> sent out its first +slave-ship in 1709, and in 1753 had eighty-eight ships engaged in the +slave-trade, which carried over twenty-five thousand slaves from Africa +to the New World that year. Slave-auctions were frequent in Liverpool, +and one of the streets where these sales were effected was nicknamed +"Negro street." The agitation for the abolition of the trade was carried +on a long time before Liverpool submitted, and then privateering came +prominently out as the lucrative business a hundred years ago during the +French wars, that brought Liverpool great wealth. Next followed the +development of trade with the East Indies, and finally the trade with +America has grown to such enormous proportions in the present century as +to eclipse all other special branches of Liverpool commerce, large as +some of them are. This has made many princely fortunes for the merchants +and shipowners, and their wealth has been liberally expended in +beautifying their city. It has in recent years had very rapid growth, +and has greatly increased its architectural adornments. Most amazing has +been this advancement since the time in the last century when the mayor +and corporation entertained Prince William of Gloucester at dinner, and, +pleased at the appetite he developed, one of them called out, "Eat away, +Your Royal Highness; there's plenty more in the kitchen!" The mayor was +Jonas Bold, and afterwards, taking the prince to church, they were +astonished to find that the preacher had taken for his text the words, +"Behold, a greater than Jonas is here."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p019.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="ST. GEORGE'S HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. GEORGE'S HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Liverpool has several fine buildings. Its Custom House is a large Ionic +structure of chaste design, with a tall dome that can be seen from afar, +and richly decorated within. The Town Hall and the Exchange buildings +make up the four sides of an enclosed quadrangle paved with broad +flagstones. Here, around the attractive Nelson monument in the centre, +the merchants meet and transact their business. The chief public +building is St. George's Hall, an imposing edifice, surrounded with +columns and raised high above one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> side of an open square, and costing +$2,000,000 to build. It is a Corinthian building, having at one end the +Great Hall, one hundred and sixty-nine feet long, where public meetings +are held, and court-rooms at the other end. Statues of Robert Peel, +Gladstone, and Stephenson, with other great men, adorn the Hall. Sir +William Brown, who amassed a princely fortune in Liverpool, has +presented the city with a splendid free library and museum, which stands +in a magnificent position on Shaw's Brow. Many of the streets are lined +with stately edifices, public and private, and most of these avenues +diverge from the square fronting St. George's Hall, opposite which is +the fine station of the London and North-western Railway, which, as is +the railroad custom in England, is also a large hotel. The suburbs of +Liverpool are filled for a wide circuit with elegant rural homes and +surrounding ornamental grounds, where the opulent merchants live. They +are generally bordered with high stone walls, interfering with the view, +and impressing the visitor strongly with the idea that an Englishman's +house is his castle. Several pretty parks with ornamental lakes among +their hills are also in the suburbs. Yet it is the vast trade that is +the glory of Liverpool, for it is but an epitome of England's commercial +greatness, and is of comparatively modern growth. "All this," not long +ago said Lord Erskine, speaking of the rapid advancement of Liverpool, +"has been created by the industry and well-disciplined management of a +handful of men since I was a boy."</p> + + +<h3>KNOWSLEY HALL.</h3> + +<p>A few miles out of Liverpool is the village of Prescot, where Kemble the +tragedian was born, and where the people at the present time are largely +engaged in watchmaking. Not far from Prescot is one of the famous homes +of England—Knowsley Hall, the seat of the Stanleys and of the Earls of +Derby for five hundred years. The park covers two thousand acres and is +almost ten miles in circumference. The greater portion of the famous +house was built in the time of George II. It is an extensive and +magnificent structure, and contains many art-treasures in its +picture-gallery by Rembrandt, Rubens, Correggio, Teniers, Vandyke, +Salvator Rosa, and others. The Stanleys are one of the governing +families of England, the last Earl of Derby having been premier in 1866, +and the present earl having also been a cabinet minister. The crest of +the Stanleys represents the Eagle and the Child, and is derived from the +story of a remote ancestor who, cherishing an ardent desire for a male +heir, and having only a daughter, contrived to have an infant conveyed +to the foot of a tree in the park frequented by an eagle. Here he and +his lady, taking a walk, found the child as if by accident, and the +lady, consider<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>ing it a gift from Heaven brought by the eagle and +miraculously preserved, adopted the boy as her heir. From this time the +crest was assumed, but we are told that the old knight's conscience +smote him at the trick, and on his deathbed he bequeathed the chief part +of his fortune to the daughter, from whom are descended the present +family.</p> + + +<h3>THE ANCIENT CITY OF CHESTER.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p021.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="EXTERIOR.—CHESTER CATHEDRAL.—INTERIOR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXTERIOR.—CHESTER CATHEDRAL.—INTERIOR.</span> +</div> + +<p>Not far from Liverpool, and in the heart of Cheshire, we come to the +small but famous river Dee and the old and very interesting city of +Chester. It is built in the form of a quadrant, its four walls enclosing +a plot about a half mile square. The walls, which form a promenade two +miles around, over which every visitor should tramp; the quaint gates +and towers; the "Rows," or arcades along the streets, which enable the +sidewalks to pass under the upper stories of the houses by cutting away +the first-floor front rooms; and the many ancient buildings,—are all +attractive. The Chester Cathedral is a venerable building of red +sandstone, which comes down to us from the twelfth century, though it +has recently been restored. It is constructed in the Perpendicular style +of architecture, with a square and turret-surmounted central tower. This +is the Cathedral of St. Werburgh, and besides other merits of the +attractive interior, the southern transept is most striking from its +exceeding length.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> The choir is richly ornamented with carvings and fine +woodwork, the Bishop's Throne having originally been a pedestal for the +shrine of St. Werburgh. The cathedral contains several ancient tombs of +much interest, and the elaborate Chapter Room, with its Early English +windows and pillars, is much admired. In this gorgeous structure the +word of God is preached from a Bible whose magnificently-bound cover is +inlaid with precious stones and its markers adorned with pearls. The +book is the Duke of Westminster's gift, that nobleman being the landlord +of much of Chester. In the nave of the cathedral are two English +battle-flags that were at Bunker Hill. Chester Castle, now used as a +barrack for troops, has only one part of the ancient edifice left, +called Julius Cæsar's Tower, near which the Dee is spanned by a fine +single-arch bridge.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/p022-1.jpg" width="349" height="450" alt="JULIUS CÆSAR'S TOWER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">JULIUS CÆSAR'S TOWER.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 231px;"> +<img src="images/p022-2.jpg" width="231" height="400" alt="ANCIENT FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANCIENT FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<p style="clear: both;"> </p> + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p023-1" id="p023-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 023/024"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p023-1.jpg" width="235" height="400" + alt="GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p023-2.jpg" width="230" height="400" + alt="BISHOP LLOYD'S PALACE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BISHOP LLOYD'S PALACE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p023-3" id="p023-3"></a> +<img src="images/p023-3.jpg" width="600" height="477" alt="OLD LAMB ROW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD LAMB ROW.</span> +</div> + +<p>The quaintest part of this curious old city of Chester is no doubt the +"Rows," above referred to. These arcades, which certainly form a capital +shelter from the hot sun or rain, were, according to one authority, +originally built as a refuge for the people in case of sudden attack by +the Welsh; but according to others they originated with the Romans, and +were used as the vestibules of the houses; and this seems to be the more +popular theory with the townsfolk. Under the "Rows" are shops of all +sizes, and some of the buildings are grotesquely attractive, especially +the curious one bearing the motto of safety from the plague, "God's +providence is mine inheritance," standing on Watergate street, and known +as "God's Providence House;" and "Bishop Lloyd's Palace," which is +ornamented with quaint wood-carvings. The "Old Lamb Row," where Randall +Holme,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> the Chester antiquary, lived, stood by itself, obeying no rule +of regularity, and was regarded as a nuisance two hundred years ago, +though later it was highly prized. The city corporation in 1670 ordered +that "the nuisance erected by Randall Holme in his new building in +Bridge street be taken down, as it annoys his neighbors, and hinders +their prospect from their houses." But this law seems to have been +enforced no more than many others are on either side of the ocean, for +the "nuisance" stood till 1821, when the greater part of it, the timbers +having rotted, fell of its own accord. The "Dark Row" is the only one of +these strange arcades that is closed from the light, for it forms a kind +of tunnel through which the footwalk goes. Not far from this is the +famous old "Stanley House," where one unfortunate Earl of Derby spent +the last day before his execution in 1657 at Bolton. The carvings on the +front of this house are very fine, and there is told in reference to the +mournful event that marks its history the following story: Lieutenant +Smith came from the governor of Chester to notify the condemned earl to +be ready for the journey to Bolton. The earl asked, "When would you have +me go?" "To-morrow, about six in the morning," said Smith. "Well," +replied the earl, "commend me to the governor, and tell him I shall<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> be +ready by that time." Then said Smith, "Doth your lordship know any +friend or servant that would do the thing your lordship knows of? It +would do well if you had a friend." The earl replied, "What do you mean? +to cut off my head?" Smith said, "Yes, my lord, if you could have a +friend." The earl answered, "Nay, sir, if those men that would have my +head will not find one to cut it off, let it stand where it is."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/p024-1.jpg" width="550" height="360" alt="THE STANLEY HOUSE, FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE STANLEY HOUSE, FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p024-2" id="p024-2"></a> +<img src="images/p024-2.jpg" width="500" height="365" alt="THE STANLEY HOUSE, REAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE STANLEY HOUSE, REAR.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is easy in this strange old city to carry back the imagination for +centuries, for it preserves its connection with the past better perhaps +than any other English town. The city holds the keys of the outlet of +the Dee, which winds around it on two sides, and is practically one of +the gates into Wales. Naturally, the Romans established a fortress here +more than a thousand years ago, and made it the head-quarters of their +twentieth legion, who impressed upon the town the formation of a Roman +camp, which it bears to this day. The very name of Chester is derived +from the Latin word for a camp. Many Roman fragments still remain, the +most notable being the Hyptocaust. This was found in Watergate street +about a century ago, together with a tessellated pavement. There have +also been exhumed Roman altars, tombs, mosaics, pottery and other +similar relics. The city is built upon a sandstone rock, and this +furnishes much of the building material, so that most of the edifices +have their exteriors disintegrated by the elements, particularly the +churches—a peculiarity that may have probably partly justified<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> Dean +Swift's epigram, written when his bile was stirred because a rainstorm +had prevented some of the Chester clergy from dining with him:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Churches and clergy of this city</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Are very much akin:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They're weather-beaten all without,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And empty all within."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p025-1" id="p025-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 025-1/025-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p025-1.jpg" width="317" height="500" + alt="THE PHŒNIX TOWER." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p025-2.jpg" width="329" height="500" + alt="THE WATER TOWER." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PHŒNIX TOWER.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE WATER TOWER.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>The modernized suburbs of Chester, filled with busy factories, are +extending beyond the walls over a larger surface than the ancient town +itself. At the angles of the old walls stand the famous towers—the +Phœnix Tower, Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, Morgan's Mount, the Goblin +Tower, and the Water Tower, while the gates in the walls are almost +equally famous—the Eastgate, Northgate, Watergate, Bridgegate, Newgate, +and Peppergate. The ancient Abbey of St. Mary had its site near the +castle, and not far away are the picturesque ruins of St. John's Chapel, +outside the walls. According to a local legend, its neighborhood had the +honor of sheltering an illustrious fugitive. Harold, the Saxon king, we +are told, did not fall at Hastings, but, escaping, spent the remainder +of his life as a hermit, dwelling in a cell near this chapel and on a +cliff alongside the Dee. The four streets leading from the gates at the +middle of each side of the town come together in the centre at a place +formerly known as the "Pentise," where was located the bull-ring at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +which was anciently carried on the refining sport of "bull-baiting" +while the mayor and corporation, clad in their gowns of office, looked +on approvingly. Prior to this sport beginning, we are told that solemn +proclamation was made for "the safety of the king and the mayor of +Chester"—that "if any man stands within twenty yards of the bull-ring, +let him take what comes." Here stood also the stocks and pillory. Amid +so much that is ancient and quaint, the new Town Hall, a beautiful +structure recently erected, is naturally most attractive, its dedication +to civic uses having been made by the present Prince of Wales, who bears +among many titles that of Earl of Chester. But this is about the only +modern attraction this interesting city possesses. At an angle of the +walls are the "Dee Mills," as old as the Norman Conquest, and famous in +song as the place where the "jolly miller once lived on the Dee." Full +of attractions within and without, it is difficult to tear one's self +away from this quaint city, and therefore we will agree, at least in one +sense, with Dr. Johnson's blunt remark to a lady friend: "I have come to +Chester, madam, I cannot tell how, and far less can I tell how to get +away from it."</p> + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p026-1" id="p026-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations 26-1 and 2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p026-1.jpg" width="304" height="450" + alt="ABBEY GATE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p026-2.jpg" width="230" height="400" + alt="RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ABBEY GATE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h3>CHESHIRE.</h3> + +<p>The county of Cheshire has other attractions. But a short distance from +Chester, in the valley of the Dee, is Eaton Hall, the elaborate palace +of the Duke of Westminster and one of the finest seats in England, +situated in a park of eight hundred acres that extends to the walls of +Chester. This palace has recently been almost entirely rebuilt and +modernized, and is now the most spacious and splendid example of Revived +Gothic architecture in England. The house contains many works of +art—statues by Gibson, paintings by Rubens and others—and is full of +the most costly and beautiful decorations and furniture, being +essentially one of the show-houses of Britain. In the extensive gardens +are a Roman altar found in Chester and a Greek altar brought from +Delphi.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> At Hawarden Castle, seven miles from Chester, is the home of +William E. Gladstone, and in its picturesque park are the ruins of the +ancient castle, dating from the time of the Tudors, and from the keep of +which there is a fine view of the Valley of the Dee. The ruins of Ewloe +Castle, six hundred years old, are not far away, but so buried in +foliage that they are difficult to find. Two miles from Chester is Hoole +House, formerly Lady Broughton's, famous for its rockwork, a lawn of +less than an acre exquisitely planted with clipped yews and other trees +being surrounded by a rockery over forty feet high. In the Wirral or +Western Cheshire are several attractive villages. At Bidston, west of +Birkenhead and on the sea-coast, is the ancient house that was once the +home of the unfortunate Earl of Derby, whose execution is mentioned +above. Congleton, in Eastern Cheshire, stands on the Dane, in a lovely +country, and is a good example of an old English country-town. Its Lion +Inn is a fine specimen of the ancient black-and-white gabled hostelrie +which novelists love so well to describe. At Nantwich is a curious old +house with a heavy octagonal bow-window in the upper story overhanging a +smaller lower one, telescope-fashion. The noble tower of Nantwich church +rises above, and the building is in excellent preservation.</p> + +<p>Nearly in the centre of Cheshire is the stately fortress of Beeston +Castle, standing on a sandstone rock rising some three hundred and sixty +feet from the flat country. It was built nearly seven hundred years ago +by an Earl of Cheshire, then just returned from the Crusades. Standing +in an irregular court covering about five acres, its thick walls and +deep ditch made it a place of much strength. It was ruined prior to the +time of Henry VIII., having been long contended for and finally +dismantled in the Wars of the Roses. Being then rebuilt, it became a +famous fortress in the Civil Wars, having been seized by the Roundheads, +then surprised and taken by the Royalists, alternately besieged and +defended afterward, and finally starved into surrender by the +Parliamentary troops in 1645. This was King Charles's final struggle, +though the castle did not succumb till after eighteen weeks' siege, and +its defenders were forced to eat cats and rats to satisfy hunger, and +were reduced to only sixty. Beeston Castle was then finally dismantled, +and its ruins are now an attraction to the tourist. Lea Hall, an ancient +and famous timbered mansion, surrounded by a moat, was situated about +six miles from Chester, but the moat alone remains to show where it +stood. Here lived Sir Hugh Calveley, one of Froissart's heroes, who was +governor of Calais when it was held by the English, and is buried under +a sumptuous tomb in the church of the neighboring college of Bunbury, +which he founded. His armed effigy surmounts the tomb, and the +inscription says he died on St. George's Day, 1394.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>THE RIVER DEE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p028.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="PLAS NEWYDD, LLANGOLLEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLAS NEWYDD, LLANGOLLEN.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p029" id="p029"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 273px;"> +<img src="images/p029.jpg" width="273" height="400" alt="RUINS OF VALLE-CRUCIS ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF VALLE-CRUCIS ABBEY.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br />Frequent reference has been made to the river Dee, the Deva of the +Welsh, which is unquestionably one of the finest streams of Britain. It +rises in the Arran Fowddwy, one of the chief Welsh mountains, nearly +three thousand feet high, and after a winding course of about seventy +miles falls into the Irish Sea. This renowned stream has been the theme +of many a poet, and after expanding near its source into the beautiful +Bala Lake, whose bewitching surroundings are nearly all described in +polysyllabic and unpronounceable Welsh names, and are popular among +artists and anglers, it flows through Edeirnim Vale, past Corwen. Here a +pathway ascends to the eminence known as Glendower's Seat, with which +tradition has closely knit the name of the Welsh hero, the close of +whose marvellous career marked the termination of Welsh independence. +Then the romantic Dee enters the far-famed Valley of Llangollen, where +tourists love to roam, and where lived the "Ladies of Llangollen." We +are told that these two high-born dames had many lovers, but, rejecting +all and enamored only of each other, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, the +latter sixteen years the junior of the former, determined on a life of +celibacy. They eloped together from Ireland, were overtaken and brought +back, and then a second time decamped—on this occasion in masquerade, +the elder dressed as a peasant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> and the younger as a smart groom in +top-boots. Escaping pursuit, they settled in Llangollen in 1778 at the +quaint little house called Plas Newydd, and lived there together for a +half century. Their costume was extraordinary, for they appeared in +public in blue riding-habits, men's neckcloths, and high hats, with +their hair cropped short. They had antiquarian tastes, which led to the +accumulation of a vast lot of old wood-carvings and stained glass, +gathered from all parts of the world and worked into the fittings and +adornment of their home. They were on excellent terms with all the +neighbors, and the elder died in 1829, aged ninety, and the younger two +years afterward, aged seventy-six. Their remains lie in Llangollen +churchyard.</p> + +<p style="clear: both;"> </p> + + +<p><a name="p030-1" id="p030-1"></a><span class="caption">WYNNSTAY.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p030-1.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:650px; height:330px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:330px; height:150px;"> </div> + +<p>Within this famous valley are the ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey, the most +picturesque abbey ruin in North Wales. An adjacent stone cross gave it +the name six hundred years ago, when it was built by the great Madoc for +the Cistercian monks. The ruins in some parts are now availed of for +farm-houses. Fine ash trees bend over the ruined arches, ivy climbs the +clustered columns, and the lancet windows with their delicate tracery +are much admired. The remains consist of the church, abbot's lodgings, +refectory, and dormitory. The church was cruciform, and is now nearly +roofless, though the east and west ends and the southern transept are +tolerably perfect, so that much of the abbey remains. It was occupied by +the Cistercians, and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The ancient +cross, of which the remains are still standing near by, is Eliseg's +Pillar, erected in the seventh century as a memorial of that Welsh +prince. It was one of the earliest lettered stones in Britain, standing +originally about twelve feet high. From this cross came the name of +Valle Crucis, which in the thirteenth century was given to the famous +abbey. The great Madoc, who lived in the neighboring castle of Dinas +Bran, built this abbey to atone for a life of violence. The ruins of his +castle stand on a hill elevated about one thousand feet above the Dee. +Bran in Welsh means <i>crow</i>, so that the English know it as Crow Castle. +From its ruins there is a beautiful view over the Valley of Llangollen. +Farther down the valley is the mansion of Wynnstay, in the midst of a +large and richly wooded park, a circle of eight miles enclosing the +superb domain, within which are herds of fallow-deer and many noble +trees. The old mansion was burnt in 1858, and an imposing struc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>ture in +Renaissance now occupies the site. Fine paintings adorn the walls by +renowned artists, and the Dee foams over its rocky bed in a sequestered +dell near the mansion. Memorial columns and tablets in the park mark +notable men and events in the Wynn family, the chief being the Waterloo +Tower, ninety feet high. Far away down the valley a noble aqueduct by +Telford carries the Ellesmere Canal over the Dee—the Pont +Cysylltau—supported on eighteen piers of masonry at an elevation of one +hundred and twenty-one feet, while a mile below is the still more +imposing viaduct carrying the Great Western Railway across.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p030-2" id="p030-2"></a> +<img src="images/p030-2.jpg" width="450" height="270" alt="Pont Cysylltau" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PONT CYSYLLTAU.</span> +</div> + +<p>Not far distant is Chirk Castle, now the home of Mr. R. Myddelton +Biddulph, a combination of a feudal fortress and a modern mansion. The +ancient portion, still preserved, was built by Roger Mortimer, to whom +Edward I. granted the lordship of Chirk. It was a bone of contention +during the Civil Wars, and when they were over, $150,000 were spent in +repairing the great quadrangular fortress. It stands in a noble +situation, and on a clear day portions of seventeen counties can be seen +from the summit. Still following down the picturesque river, we come to +Bangor-ys-Coed, or "Bangor-in-the-Wood," in Flintshire, once the seat of +a famous monastery that disappeared twelve hundred years ago. Here a +pretty bridge crosses the river, and a modern church is the most +prominent structure in the village. The old monastery is said to have +been the home of twenty-four hundred monks, one half of whom were slain +in a battle near Chester by the heathen king Ethelfrith, who afterwards +sacked the monastery, but the Welsh soon gathered their forces again and +took terrible vengeance. Many ancient coffins and Roman remains have +been found here. The Dee now runs with swift current past Overton to the +ancient town of Holt, whose charter is nearly five hundred years old, +but whose importance is now much less than of yore. Holt belongs to the +debatable Powisland, the strip of territory over which the English and +Welsh fought for centuries. Holt was formerly known as Lyons, and was a +Roman outpost of Chester. Edward<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> I. granted it to Earl Warren, who +built Holt Castle, of which only a few quaint pictures now exist, though +it was a renowned stronghold in its day. It was a five-sided structure +with a tower on each corner, enclosing an ample courtyard. After +standing several sieges in the Civil Wars of Cromwell's time, the +battered castle was dismantled.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;"> +<a name="p031" id="p031"></a> +<img src="images/p031.jpg" width="398" height="600" alt="WREXHAM TOWER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WREXHAM TOWER.</span> +</div> + +<p>The famous Wrexham Church, whose tower is regarded as one of the "seven +wonders of Wales," is three miles from Holt, and is four hundred years +old. Few churches built as early as the reign of Henry VIII. can compare +with this. It is dedicated to St. Giles, and statues of him and of +twenty-nine other saints embellish niches in the tower. Alongside of St. +Giles is the hind that nourished him in the desert. The bells of Wrexham +peal melodiously over the valley, and in the vicarage the good Bishop +Heber wrote the favorite hymn, "From Greenland's Icy Mountains." Then +the Dee flows on past the ducal palace of Eaton Hall, and encircles +Chester, which has its race-course, "The Roodee"—where they hold an +annual contest in May for the "Chester Cup"—enclosed by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> a beautiful +semicircle of the river. Then the Dee flows on through a straight +channel for six miles to its estuary, which broadens among treacherous +sands and flats between Flintshire and Cheshire, till it falls into the +Irish Sea. Many are the tales of woe that are told of the "Sands o' +Dee," along which the railway from Chester to Holyhead skirts the edge +in Flintshire. Many a poor girl, sent for the cattle wandering on these +sands, has been lost in the mist that rises from the sea, and drowned by +the quickly rushing waters. Kingsley has plaintively told the story in +his mournful poem:</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p032" id="p032"></a> +<img src="images/p032.jpg" width="500" height="456" alt="THE ROODEE, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROODEE, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p033.jpg" width="600" height="211" alt="THE "SANDS O' DEE."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "SANDS O' DEE."</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"They rowed her in across the rolling foam—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The cruel, crawling foam,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The cruel, hungry foam—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">To her grave beside the sea;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But still the boatmen hear her call her cattle home</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Across the Sands o' Dee."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<h3>FLINT AND DENBIGH.</h3> + +<p>Let us now journey westward from the Dee into Wales, coming first into +Flintshire. The town of Flint, it is conjectured, was originally a Roman +camp, from the design and the antiquities found there. Edward I., six +hundred years ago, built Flint Castle upon an isolated rock in a marsh +near the river, and after a checquered history it was dismantled in the +seventeenth century. From the railway between Chester and Holyhead the +ruins of this castle are visible on its low freestone rock; it is a +square, with round towers at three of the corners, and a massive keep at +the other, formed like a double tower and detached from the main castle. +This was the "dolorous castle" into which Richard II. was inveigled at +the beginning of his imprisonment, which ended with abdication, and +finally his death at Pomfret. The story is told that Richard<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> had a fine +greyhound at Flint Castle that often caressed him, but when the Duke of +Lancaster came there the greyhound suddenly left Richard and caressed +the duke, who, not knowing the dog, asked Richard what it meant. +"Cousin," replied the king, "it means a great deal for you and very +little for me. I understand by it that this greyhound pays his court to +you as King of England, which you will surely be, and I shall be +deposed, for the natural instinct of the dog shows it to him; keep him, +therefore, by your side." Lancaster treasured this, and paid attention +to the dog, which would nevermore follow Richard, but kept by the side +of the Duke of Lancaster, "as was witnessed," says the chronicler +Froissart, "by thirty thousand men."</p> + +<p>Rhuddlan Castle, also in Flintshire, is a red sandstone ruin of striking +appearance, standing on the Clwyd River. When it was founded no one +knows accurately, but it was rebuilt seven hundred years ago, and was +dismantled, like many other Welsh castles, in 1646. It was at Rhuddlan +that Edward I. promised the Welsh "a native prince who never spoke a +word of English, and whose life and conversation no man could impugn;" +and this promise he fulfilled to the letter by naming as the first +English Prince of Wales his infant son, then just born at Caernarvon +Castle. Six massive towers flank the walls of this famous castle, and +are in tolerably fair preservation. Not far to the southward is the +eminence known by the Welsh as "Yr-Wyddgrug," or "a lofty hill," and +which the English call Mold. On this hill was a castle of which little +remains now but tracings of the ditches, larches and other trees +peacefully growing on the site of the ancient stronghold. Off toward +Wrexham are the ruins of another castle, known as Caergwrle, or "the +camp of the giant legion." This was of Welsh origin, and commanded the +entrance to the Vale of Alen; the English called it Hope Castle.</p> + +<p>Adjoining Flintshire is Denbigh, with the quiet watering-place of +Abergele out on the Irish Sea. About two miles away is St. Asaph, with +its famous cathedral, having portions dating from the thirteenth +century. The great castle of Denbigh, when in its full glory, had +fortifications one and a half miles in circumference. It stood on a +steep hill at the county-town, where scanty ruins now remain, consisting +chiefly of an immense gateway with remains of flanking towers. Above the +entrance is a statue of the Earl of Lincoln, its founder in the +thirteenth century. His only son was drowned in the castle-well, which +so affected the father that he did not finish the castle. Edward II. +gave Denbigh to Despenser; Leicester owned it in Elizabeth's time; +Charles II. dismantled it. The ruins impress the visitor with the +stupendous strength of the immense walls of this stronghold, while +extensive passages and dungeons have been explored beneath the surface +for long dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>tances. In one chamber near the entrance-tower, which had +been walled up, a large amount of gunpowder was found. At Holywell, now +the second town in North Wales, is the shrine to which pilgrims have +been going for many centuries. At the foot of a steep hill, from an +aperture in the rock, there rushes forth a torrent of water at the rate +of eighty-four hogsheads a minute; whether the season be wet or be dry, +the sacred stream gushing forth from St. Winifrede's Well varies but +little, and around it grows the fragrant moss known as St. Winifrede's +Hair. The spring has valuable medicinal virtues, and an elegant dome +covering it supports a chapel. The little building is an exquisite +Gothic structure built by Henry VII. A second basin is provided, into +which bathers may descend. The pilgrims to this holy well have of late +years decreased in numbers; James II., who, we are told, "lost three +kingdoms for a mass," visited this well in 1686, and "received as a +reward the undergarment worn by his great-grandmother, Mary Queen of +Scots, on the day of her execution." This miraculous spring gets its +name from the pious virgin Winifrede. She having been seen by the Prince +of Wales, Caradoc, he was struck by her great beauty and attempted to +carry her off; she fled to the church, the prince pursuing, and, +overtaking her, he in rage drew his sword and struck off her head; the +severed head bounded through the church-door and rolled to the foot of +the altar. On the spot where it rested a spring of uncommon size burst +forth. The pious priest took up the head, and at his prayer it was +united to the body, and the virgin, restored to life, lived in sanctity +for fifteen years afterwards: miracles were wrought at her tomb; the +spring proved another Pool of Bethesda, and to this day we are told that +the votive crutches and chairs left by the cured remain hanging over St. +Winifrede's Well.</p> + +<p>South of Denbigh, in Montgomeryshire, are the ruins of Montgomery +Castle, long a frontier fortress of Wales, around which many hot +contests have raged: a fragment of a tower and portions of the walls are +all that remain. Powys Castle is at Welsh Pool, and is still +preserved—a red sandstone structure on a rocky elevation in a spacious +and well-wooded park; Sir Robert Smirke has restored it.</p> + + +<h3>THE MENAI STRAIT.</h3> + +<p>Still journeying westward, we come to Caernarvonshire, and reach the +remarkable estuary dividing the mainland from the island of Anglesea, +and known as the Menai Strait. This narrow stream, with its +steeply-sloping banks and winding shores, looks more like a river than a +strait, and it everywhere discloses evidence of the residence of an +almost pre-historic people in relics of nations that inhabited its banks +before the invasion of the Romans.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> There are hill-forts, sepulchral +mounds, pillars of stone, rude pottery, weapons of stone and bronze; and +in that early day Mona itself, as Anglesea was called, was a sacred +island. Here were fierce struggles between Roman and Briton, and Tacitus +tells of the invasion of Mona by the Romans and the desperate conflicts +that ensued as early as <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 60. The history of the strait is a story of +almost unending war for centuries, and renowned castles bearing the +scars of these conflicts keep watch and ward to this day. Beaumaris, +Bangor, Caernarvon, and Conway castles still remain in partial ruin to +remind us of the Welsh wars of centuries ago. On the Anglesea shore, at +the northern entrance to the strait, is the picturesque ruin of +Beaumaris Castle, built by Edward I. at a point where vessels could +conveniently land. It stands on the lowlands, and a canal connects its +ditch with the sea. It consists of a hexagonal line of outer defences +surrounding an inner square. Round towers flanked the outer walls, and +the chapel within is quite well preserved. It has not had much place in +history, and the neighboring town is now a peaceful watering-place.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p036.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="THE MENAI STRAIT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MENAI STRAIT.</span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p037-1.jpg" width="600" height="272" alt="BEAUMARIS CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BEAUMARIS CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p037-2.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="BANGOR CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BANGOR CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Across the strait is Bangor, a rather straggling town, with a cathedral +that is not very old. We are told that its bishop once sold its peal of +bells, and, going down to the shore to see them shipped away, was +stricken blind as a punishment for the sacrilege. Of Bangor Castle, as +it originally stood, but insignificant traces remain, but Lord Penrhyn +has recently erected in the neighborhood the imposing castle of Penryhn, +a massive pile of dark limestone, in which the endeavor is made to +combine a Norman feudal castle with a modern dwelling, though with only +indifferent success, excepting in the expenditure involved. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> roads +from the great suspension-bridge across the strait lead on either hand +to Bangor and Beaumaris, although the route is rather circuitous. This +bridge, crossing at the narrowest and most beautiful part of the strait, +was long regarded as the greatest triumph of bridge-engineering. It +carried the Holyhead high-road across the strait, and was built by +Telford. The bridge is five hundred and seventy-nine feet long, and +stands one hundred feet above high-water mark; it cost $600,000. Above +the bridge the strait widens, and here, amid the swift-flowing currents, +the famous whitebait are caught for the London epicures. Three-quarters +of a mile below, at another narrow place, the railway crosses the strait +through Stephenson's Britannia tubular bridge, which is more useful than +ornamental, the railway passing through two long rectangular iron tubes, +supported on plain massive pillars. From a rock in the strait the +central tower rises to a height of two hundred and thirty feet, and +other towers are built on each shore at a distance of four hundred and +sixty feet from the central one. Couchant lions carved in stone guard +the bridge-portals at each end, and this famous viaduct cost over +$2,500,000. A short distance below the Anglesea Column towers above a +dark rock on the northern shore of the strait. It was erected in honor +of the first Marquis of Anglesea, the gallant commander of the British +light cavalry at Waterloo, where his leg was carried away by one of the +last French cannon-shots. For many years after the great victory he +lived here, literally with "one foot in the grave." Plas Newydd, one and +a half miles below, the Anglesea family residence, where the marquis +lived, is a large and unattractive mansion, beautifully situated on the +sloping shore. It has in the park two ancient sepulchral monuments of +great interest to the antiquarian.</p> + + +<h3>CAERNARVON AND CONWAY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p039" id="p039"></a> +<img src="images/p039.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="CAERNARVON CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAERNARVON CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>As the famous strait widens below the bridges the shores are tamer, and +we come to the famous Caernarvon Castle, the scene of many stirring +military events, as it held the key to the valleys of Snowdon, and +behind it towers that famous peak, the highest mountain in Britain, +whose summit rises to a height of 3590 feet. This great castle also +commanded the south-western entrance to the strait, and near it the +rapid little Sciont River flows into the sea. The ancient Britons had a +fort here, and afterwards it was a Roman fortified camp, which gradually +developed into the city of Segontium. The British name, from which the +present one comes, was Caer-yn-Arvon—"the castle opposite to Mona." +Segontium had the honor of being the birthplace of the Emperor +Constantine, and many Roman remains still exist there. It was in 1284, +however, that Edward I. began building the present castle, and it took +thirty-nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> years to complete. The castle plan is an irregular oval, +with one side overlooking the strait. At the end nearest the sea, where +the works come to a blunt point, is the famous Eagle Tower, which has +eagles sculptured on the battlements. There are twelve towers +altogether, and these, with the light-and dark-hued stone in the walls, +give the castle a massive yet graceful aspect as it stands on the low +ground at the mouth of the Sciont. Externally, the castle is in good +preservation, but the inner buildings are partly destroyed, as is also +the Queen's Gate, where Queen Eleanor is said to have entered before the +first English Prince of Wales was born. A corridor, with loopholes +contrived in the thickness of the walls, runs entirely around the +castle, and from this archers could fight an approaching enemy. This +great fortress has been called the "boast of North Wales" from its size +and excellent position. It was last used for defence during the Civil +Wars, having been a military stronghold for nearly four centuries. +Although Charles II. issued a warrant for its demolition, this was to a +great extent disregarded. Prynne, the sturdy Puritan, was confined here +in Charles I.'s time, and the first English Prince of Wales, afterwards +the unfortunate Edward II., is said to have been born in a little dark +room, only twelve by eight feet, in the Eagle Tower: when seventeen +years of age the prince received the homage of the Welsh barons at +Chester. The town of Caernarvon, notwithstanding its famous history and +the possession of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> the greatest ruin in Wales, now derives its chief +satisfaction from the lucrative but prosaic occupation of trading in +slates.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p040.jpg" width="600" height="480" alt="CONWAY CASTLE, FROM THE ROAD TO LLANRWST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CONWAY CASTLE, FROM THE ROAD TO LLANRWST.</span> +</div> + +<p>At the northern extremity of Caernarvon county, and projecting into the +Irish Sea, is the promontory known as Great Orme's Head, and near it is +the mouth of the Conway River. The railway to Holyhead crosses this +river on a tubular bridge four hundred feet long, and runs almost under +the ruins of Conway Castle, another Welsh stronghold erected by Edward +I. We are told that this despotic king, when he had completed the +conquest of Wales, came to Conway, the shape of the town being something +like a Welsh harp, and he ordered all the native bards to be put to +death. Gray founded upon this his ode, "The Bard," beginning—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"On a rock whose lofty brow</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Robed in a sable garb of woe.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">With haggard eyes the poet stood."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> + +<p>This ode has so impressed the Conway folk that they have been at great +pains to discover the exact spot where the despairing bard plunged into +the river, and several enthusiastic persons have discovered the actual +site. The castle stands upon a high rock, and its builder soon after its +completion was besieged there by the Welsh, but before being starved +into submission was relieved by the timely arrival of a fleet with +provisions. It was in the hall of Conway Castle that Richard II. signed +his abdication. The castle was stormed and taken by Cromwell's troops in +the Civil Wars, and we are told that all the Irish found in the garrison +were tied in couples, back to back, and thrown into the river. The +castle was not dismantled, but the townsfolk in their industrious +quarrying of slates have undermined one of the towers, which, though +kept up by the solidity of the surrounding masonry, is known as the +"Broken Tower." There was none of the "bonus building" of modern times +attempted in these ponderous Welsh castles of the great King Edward. The +ruins are an oblong square, standing on the edge of a steep rock washed +on two sides by the river; the embattled walls, partly covered by ivy, +are twelve to fifteen feet thick, and are flanked by eight huge circular +towers, each forty feet in diameter; the interior is in partial ruin, +but shows traces of its former magnificence; the stately hall is one +hundred and thirty feet long. The same architect designed both +Caernarvon and Conway. A fine suspension-bridge now crosses the river +opposite the castle, its towers being built in harmony with the +architecture of the place, so that the structure looks much like a +drawbridge for the fortress. Although the Conway River was anciently a +celebrated pearl-fishery, slate-making, as at Caernarvon, is now the +chief industry of the town.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 594px;"> +<a name="p042" id="p042"></a> +<img src="images/p042.jpg" width="594" height="600" alt="THE SWALLOW FALLS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SWALLOW FALLS.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 393px;"> +<img src="images/p041.jpg" width="393" height="400" alt="FALLS OF THE CONWAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FALLS OF THE CONWAY.</span> +</div> +<p>There are many other historic places in Caernarvonshire, and also +splendid bits of rural and coast scenery, while the attractions for the +angler as well as the artist are almost limitless. One of the prettiest +places for sketching, as well as a spot where the fisherman's skill is +often rewarded, is Bettws-y-Coed. This pretty village, which derives its +name from a religious establishment—"Bede-house in the Wood"—that was +formerly there, but long ago disappear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>ed, is a favorite resort for +explorations of the ravines leading down from Mount Snowdon, which +towers among the clouds to the southward. Not far away are the +attractive Falls of the Conway, and from a rock above them is a good +view of the wonderful ravine of Fors Noddyn, through which the river +flows. Around it there is a noble assemblage of hills and headlands. +Here, joining with the Conway, comes through another ravine the pretty +Machno in a succession of sparkling cascades and rapids. Not far away is +the wild and lovely valley of the Lledr, another tributary of the +Conway, which comes tumbling down a romantic fissure cut into the +frowning sides of the mountain. At Dolwyddelan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> a solitary tower is all +that remains of the castle, once commanding from its bold perch on the +rocks the narrow pass in the valley. It is at present a little village +of slate-quarriers. The Llugwy is yet another attractive tributary of +the Conway, which boasts in its course the Rhavadr-y-Wenol, or the +Swallow Fall. This, after a spell of rainy weather, is considered the +finest cataract in Wales for the breadth and volume of the water that +descends, though not for its height. This entire region is full of +charming scenery, and of possibly what some may love even better, good +trout-fishing. Following the Conway Valley still farther up, and +crossing over the border into Denbigh, we come to the little market-town +of Llanrwst. It contains two attractive churches, the older one +containing many curious monuments and some good carvings, the latter +having been brought from Maenant Abbey. But the chief curiosity of this +little Welsh settlement is the bridge crossing the Conway. It was +constructed by Inigo Jones, and is a three-arched stone bridge, which +has the strange peculiarity that by pushing a particular portion of the +parapet it can be made to vibrate from one end to the other. Gwydyr +House, the seat of Lord Willoughby de Eresby, is in the neighborhood, a +small part of the original mansion built in 1555 remaining. Near Trefriw +lived Taliesin, the father of Welsh poetry, and a monument erected by +that nobleman on the river-bank perpetuates his memory.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 643px;"> + <img src="images/p043-top.jpg" style="margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: -1em;" alt="LLANRWST BRIDGE" height="317" width="643"/> + + </div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 236px;"> + <img src="images/p043-bottom.jpg" style="margin-top: -2.3em; margin-bottom: -2em; margin-left: -1.3em;" alt="LLANRWST BRIDGE" height="150" width="236"/> +<span class="caption"><br /><br /><br />LLANRWST BRIDGE.</span> + </div> + + + +<p style="margin-top: 25em;"> +The recollection among the Welsh of the life and exploits of the great +chieftain of former times, Madoc, is held very dear in Caernarvonshire, +and is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> preserved not only in many legends, but also in the thriving and +pleasant little seaport known as Port Madoc, which has grown up out of +the slate-trade. Its wharf is a wilderness of slates, and much of the +land in the neighborhood has been recovered from the sea. The geology as +well as the scenery here is an interesting study. In fact, the whole +Caernarvon coast, which stretches away to the south-west in the long +peninsula that forms Cardigan Bay, is full of pleasant and attractive +locations for student and tourist, and entwined around all are weird +legends of the heroes and doings of the mystical days of the dim past, +when Briton and Roman contended for the mastery of this historic region.</p> + + +<h3>THE COAST OF MERIONETH.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p044" id="p044"></a> +<img src="images/p044.jpg" width="600" height="419" alt="BARMOUTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BARMOUTH.</span> +</div> + +<p>Let us make a brief excursion south of Mount Snowdon, along the coast of +the pastoral county of Merioneth, where Nature has put many crags and +stones and a little gold and wheat, but where the people's best reliance +is their flocks. At the place where the Mawddach joins the sea is +Barmouth, where a fishing-village has of late years bloomed into a +fashionable watering-place. The houses are built on a strip of sand and +the precipitous hillside beyond, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> the cottages are perched wherever +they can conveniently hold on to the crags, the devious pathways and +flights of steps leading up to them presenting a quaint aspect. The +bends of the Mawddach, as it goes inland among the hills, present miles +of unique scenery, the great walls of Cader Idris closing the +background. Several hilltops in the neighborhood contain fortifications, +and are marked by the old tombs known as cromlechs and Druids' altars. +On the sea-coast curious reefs project, the chief of them being St. +Patrick's Causeway. The legend tells us that a Welsh chieftain fifteen +hundred years ago constructed these reefs to protect the lowlands from +the incursions of the sea, and on the lands thus reclaimed there stood +no less than twelve fortified Welsh cities. But, unfortunately, one +stormy night the guardian of the embankments got drunk, and, slumbering +at the critical moment, the waves rushed in, sweeping all before them. +In the morning, where had before been fortified cities and a vast +population, there was only a waste of waters. St. Patrick, we are told, +used his causeway to bear him dryshod as far as possible when he walked +the waters to Ireland.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p045.jpg" width="600" height="321" alt="BARMOUTH ESTUARY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BARMOUTH ESTUARY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Let us penetrate into the interior by going up the romantic valley of +the Mawddach and viewing the frowning sides of the chief Merioneth +mountain, Cader Idris, which towers on the right hand to the height of +3100 feet. It is a long ridge rather than a peak, and steep precipices +guard the upper portion. Two little lakes near the summit, enclosed by +cliffs, afford magnificent scenery. Here is "Idris's Chair," where the +grim magician, who used to make the moun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>tain his home, sat to perform +his incantations, whilst in a hollow at the summit he had his couch. +According to Welsh tradition, whoever passed the night there would +emerge in the morning either mad or a poet. This mountain, like Snowdon, +is said to have been formerly a volcano, and legends tell of the fiery +outbursts that came from its craters, now occupied by the two little +lakes. But the truth of these legends, though interwoven into Welsh +poetry, is denied by prosaic geologists. A rough and steep track, known +as the "Fox's Path," leads to the summit, and there is a fine view +northward across the valleys to the distant summits of Snowdon and its +attendant peaks, while spread at our feet to the westward is the broad +expanse of Cardigan Bay. Lakes abound in the lowlands, and, pursuing the +road up the Mawddach we pass the "Pool of the Three Pebbles." Once upon +a time three stones got into the shoe of the giant Idris as he was +walking about his domain, and he stopped here and threw them out. Here +they still remain—three ponderous boulders—in the lake.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p046-1.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="CADER IDRIS, ON THE TALY-SLYN ASCENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CADER IDRIS, ON THE TALY-SLYN ASCENT.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p046" id="p046"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 297px;"> +<img src="images/p046-2.jpg" width="297" height="450" alt="RHAYADR-Y-MAWDDACH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RHAYADR-Y-MAWDDACH.</span> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />We leave the Mawddach and follow its tributary, the little river Wnion, +as it ripples along over its pebbly bed guarded by strips of meadow. +Soon we come to the lovely "Village of the Hazels," Dolgelly, standing +in the narrow valley, and probably the prettiest spot in Wales. Steep +hills rise on either hand, with bare craggy summits and the lower slopes +richly wooded. Deep dells running into the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> hills vary the scenery, and +thus the town is set in an amphitheatre of hills, up whose flanks the +houses seem to climb. There is a little old church, and in a back court +the ruins of the "Parliament House," where Owen Glendower assembled the +Welsh Parliament in 1404. The Torrent Walk, where the stream from the +mountain is spanned by picturesque bridges, is a favorite resort of the +artist, and also one of the most charming bits of scenery in the +neighborhood of this beautiful town. Pursuing the valley farther up and +crossing the watershed, we come to the largest inland water of Wales, +the beautiful Bala Lake, heretofore referred to in describing the river +Dee, which drains it. It is at an elevation of six hundred feet, +surrounded by mountain-peaks, and the possibility of making it available +as a water-supply for London has been considered.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p047-1.jpg" width="600" height="306" alt="DOLGELLY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOLGELLY.</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +<img src="images/p048-1.jpg" width="600" height="296" alt="THE LOWER BRIDGE, TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LOWER BRIDGE, TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p048-2.jpg" width="600" height="328" alt="BALA LAKE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BALA LAKE.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p047" id="p047"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> + +<img src="images/p047-2.jpg" width="450" height="345" alt="OWEN GLENDOWER'S PARLIAMENT HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OWEN GLENDOWER'S PARLIAMENT HOUSE.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br /><br />There is an attractive place on the Merioneth coast to the southward of +Barmouth, at the mouth of the Rheidol, and near the estuary of the river +Dovey. A ruined tower on a low eminence guards the harbor, where now is +a fashionable watering-place, and is almost all that remains of the once +powerful Aberystwith Castle, another stronghold of King Edward I. +Portions of the entrance-gate and barbican can be traced, while the +modern houses of the town are spread to the northward along the +semicircular bay. The University College of Wales is located here, and +the town is popularly known as the "Welsh Brighton," while among its +antiquities in the suburbs is the ruined castellated mansion of Plas +Crug, said to have been Glendower's home. On the northern part of the +Merioneth coast is the entrance to the pleasant vale of Pfestiniog, +another attractive spot to tourists. Tan-y-bwlch and Maentwrog<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> are +romantic villages adjoining each other in this pretty valley full of +waterfalls, among these being the renowned Black Cataract and the Raven +Fall.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;"> +<img src="images/p049.jpg" width="306" height="500" alt="ABERYSTWITH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ABERYSTWITH.</span> +</div> + +<p>About twelve miles north of Barmouth the picturesque Harlech Castle +stands on a promontory guarding the entrance to the Traeth. The cliff is +precipitous, with just enough level surface on the top to accommodate +the castle. The place is a quadrangle, with massive round towers at the +corners connected by lofty curtain-walls. Circular towers, protected by +a barbican, guard the entrance on the land side. Deep ditches cut in the +rock surround the castle where that defence is necessary. From this +fortress on the Rock of Harlech the view is magnificent. This crag is +said to have supported a castle as early as the third century, when Lady +Bronwen built it, and, being of most sensitive honor, died afterwards of +grief because her husband had struck her. Unhappily, she was in advance +of her age in her demonstration of woman's rights. Another castle +replaced the first one in the sixth century, and some of its ruins were +worked into the present castle, which is another achievement of the +great Welsh fortress-builder, Edward I. It has stood several sieges. +Owen Glendower held it five years against the English. When Edward IV. +became king, Harlech still held out for the Lancastrian party, the +redoubtable Welshman, David ap Ifon, being the governor. Summoned to +surrender, the brave David replied, "I held a town in France till all +the old women in Wales heard of it, and now I will hold a castle in +Wales till all the old women in France hear of it." But David was +starved into surrender, and then Edward IV. tried to break the terms of +capit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>ulation made by Sir Richard Pembroke, the besieger. Sir Richard, +more generous, told the king, "Then, by Heaven, I will let David and his +garrison into Harlech again, and Your Highness may fetch him out by any +who can, and if you demand my life for his, take it." The song of "The +March of the Men of Harlech" is a memorial of this siege. Harlech was +the last Welsh fortress during the Civil Wars that held out for Charles +I., and since then it has been gradually falling to decay.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p050.jpg" width="450" height="458" alt="HARLECH CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HARLECH CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>We have now conducted the tourist to the chief objects in North Wales. +The railway runs on to Holyhead, built on the extreme point of Holy +Island on the western verge of Anglesea, where there is a fine harbor of +refuge, lighthouses, and an excellent port. Here comes the "Wild +Irishman," as the fast train is called that runs between London and +Ireland, and its passengers are quickly transferred to the swift +steamers that cross the Channel to Dublin harbor. Lighthouses dot the +cliffs on the coast, and at this romantic outpost we will close the +survey of North Wales.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"There ever-dimpling Ocean's cheek</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reflects the tints of many a peak,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caught by the laughing tides that lave</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Those Edens of the Western wave."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II.</h2> + +<h3>LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Lancashire—Warrington—Manchester—Furness Abbey—The +Ribble—Stonyhurst—Lancaster Castle—Isle of +Man—Castletown—Rushen Castle—Peele Castle—The Lake +Country—Windermere—Lodore Fall—Derwentwater—Keswick—Greta +Hall—Southey, Wordsworth and Coleridge—Skiddaw—The Border +Castles—Kendal Castle—Brougham Hall—The Solway—Carlisle +Castle—Scaleby Castle—Naworth—Lord William Howard.</p></div> + + +<h3>LANCASHIRE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +<img src="images/p051.jpg" width="550" height="444" alt="OLD MARKET, WARRINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD MARKET, WARRINGTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>The great manufacturing county of England for cotton and woollen +spinning and weaving is Lancashire. Liverpool is the seaport for the +vast aggregation of manufacturers who own the huge mills of Manchester, +Salford, Warrington, Wigan, Oldham, Rochdale, Bolton, Blackburn, +Preston, and a score of other towns, whose operatives work into yarns +and fabrics the millions of bales of cotton and wool that come into the +Mersey. The warehouse and factory, with the spinners' cottages and the +manufacturers' villas, make up these towns, almost all of modern growth, +and the busy machinery and smoking chimneys leave little chance for +romance in Southern Lancashire. It was in this section that trade first +compelled the use of modern improvements: here were used the earliest +steam-engines; here labored Arkwright to perfect the spinning machinery, +and Stephenson to build railways. To meet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> the necessities of +communication between Liverpool and Manchester, the first canal was dug +in England, and this was followed afterwards by the first experimental +railway; the canal was constructed by Brindley, and was called the +"Grand Trunk Canal," being twenty-eight miles long from Manchester to +the Mersey River, at Runcorn above Liverpool, and was opened in 1767. +The railway was opened in 1830; the odd little engine, the "Rocket," +then drew an excursion-train over it, and the opening was marred by an +accident which killed Joseph Huskisson, one of the members of Parliament +for Liverpool. Let us follow this railway, which now carries an enormous +traffic out of Liverpool, eastward along the valley of the Mersey past +Warrington, with its quaint old timbered market-house, and then up its +tributary, the Irwell, thirty-one miles to Manchester.</p> + + +<h3>MANCHESTER.</h3> + +<p>The chief manufacturing city of England has not a striking effect upon +the visitor as he approaches it. It is scattered over a broad surface +upon a gently undulating plain, and its suburbs straggle out into the +country villages, which it is steadily absorbing in its rapid growth; +the Irwell passes in a winding course through the city, receiving a +couple of tributaries; this river divides Manchester from Salford, but a +dozen bridges unite them. No city in England has had such rapid growth +as Manchester in this century; it has increased from about seventy +thousand people at the beginning of the century to over half a million +now; and this is all the effect of the development of manufacturing +industry. Yet Manchester is one of the oldest towns in England, for +there was a Roman camp at Mancunium, as the Cæsars called it, in the +first century of the Christian era; and we are also told that in the +days when giants lived in England it was the scene of a terrific combat +between Sir Launcelot of the Lake and the giant Tarquin. A ballad tells +the story, but it is easier read in prose: Sir Launcelot was travelling +near Manchester when he heard that this giant held in durance vile a +number of knights—"threescore and four" in all; a damsel conducts him +to the giant's castle-gate, "near Manchester, fair town," where a copper +basin hung to do duty as a bell; he strikes it so hard as to break it, +when out comes the giant ready for the fray; a terrific combat ensues, +and the giant, finding that he has met his match, offers to release the +captives, provided his adversary is not a certain knight that slew his +brother. Unfortunately, it happens that Sir Launcelot is the very same, +and the combat is renewed with such vigor that the giant is slain, "to +the great contentment of many persons."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p053.jpg" width="500" height="346" alt="MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL. FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL. FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span> +</div> + +<p>The ancient Mancunium was a little camp and city of about twelve acres, +partly bounded by a tributary of the Irwell known as the Medlock. A +ditch on the land-side was still visible in the last century, and +considerable portions of the old Roman walls also remained within two +hundred years. Many Roman relics have been discovered in the city, and +at Knott Mill, the site of the giant Tarquin's castle, a fragment of the +Roman wall is said to be still visible. The town in the early Tudor days +had a college, and then a cathedral, and it was besieged in the Civil +Wars, though it steadily grew, and in Charles II.'s time it was +described as a busy and opulent place; but it had barely six thousand +people. Cotton-spinning had then begun, the cotton coming from Cyprus +and Smyrna. In 1700 life in Manchester, as described in a local +guide-book, was noted by close application to business; the +manufacturers were in their warehouses by six in the morning, +breakfasted at seven on bowls of porridge and milk, into which masters +and apprentices dipped their spoons indiscriminately, and dined at +twelve; the ladies went out visiting at two in the afternoon, and +attended church at four. Manchester was conservative in the Jacobite +rebellion, and raised a regiment for the Pretender, but the royalist +forces defeated it, captured the officers, and beheaded them. Manchester +politics then were just the opposite of its present Liberal tendencies, +and it was Byrom, a Manchester man, who wrote the quaint epigram +regarding the Pretender and his friends which has been so often quoted:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"God bless the King—I mean our faith's defender!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">God bless (no harm in blessing) the Pretender!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But who Pretender is, or who is King—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">God bless us all!—that's quite another thing."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<p>It was the rapid growth of manufacturing industry in Manchester that +changed its politics, and it was here that was first conspicuously +advocated the free-trade agitation in England which triumphed in the +repeal of the Corn Laws, so as to admit food free of duty for the +operatives, and in the Reform bill that changed the representation in +Parliament. That fine building, the "Free-Trade Hall," is a monument of +this agitation in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> which Manchester took such prominent part. As the +city has grown in wealth, so has its architectural appearance improved; +its school-and college-buildings are very fine, particularly Owens +College, munificently endowed by a leading merchant. The Manchester +Cathedral is an ancient building overlooking the Irwell which has had to +be renewed in so many parts that it has a comparatively modern aspect. +Other English cathedrals are more imposing, but this, "the ould paroch +church" spoken of by the ancient chroniclers, is highly prized by the +townsfolk; the architecture is Perpendicular and of many dates. Until +recently this was the only parish church in Manchester, and consequently +all the marriages for the city had to be celebrated there; the number +was at times very large, especially at Easter, and not a few tales are +told of how, in the confusion, the wrong pairs were joined together, and +when the mistake was discovered respliced with little ceremony. It was +in this Manchester Cathedral that one rector is said to have generally +begun the marriage service by instructing the awaiting crowd to "sort +yourselves in the vestry."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p054.jpg" width="650" height="376" alt="THE ASSIZE COURTS, MANCHESTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ASSIZE COURTS, MANCHESTER.</span> +</div> + +<p>Some of the public buildings in Manchester are most sumptuous. The +Assize Courts are constructed in rich style, with lofty Pointed roofs +and a tall tower, and make one of the finest modern buildings in +England. The great hall is a grand apartment, and behind the courts is +the prison, near which the Fenians in 1867 made the celebrated rescue of +the prisoners from the van for which some of the assailants were hanged +and others transported. The Royal Exchange is a massive structure in the +Italian style, with a fine portico, dome, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> towers; the hall within +is said to be probably the largest room in England, having a width of +ceiling, without supports, of one hundred and twenty feet. Here on +cotton-market days assemble the buyers and sellers from all the towns in +Lancashire, and they do an enormous traffic. The new Town-Hall is also a +fine building, where the departments of the city government are +accommodated, and where they have an apartment dear to every +Englishman's heart—"a kitchen capable of preparing a banquet for eight +hundred persons." The warehouses of Manchester are famous for their size +and solidity, and could Arkwright come back and see what his +cotton-spinning machinery has produced, he would be amazed. It was in +Manchester that the famous Dr. Dalton, the founder of the atomic theory +in chemistry, lived; he was a devout Quaker, like so many of the +townspeople, but unfortunately was color-blind; he appeared on one +occasion in a scarlet waistcoat, and when taken to task declared it +seemed to him a very quiet, unobtrusive color, just like his own coat. +Several fine parks grace the suburbs of Manchester, and King Cotton has +made this thriving community the second city in England, while for miles +along the beautifully shaded roads that lead into the suburbs the +opulent merchants and manufacturers have built their ornamental villas.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p055.jpg" width="650" height="506" alt="THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, MANCHESTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, MANCHESTER.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>FURNESS AND STONYHURST</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 495px;"> +<img src="images/p056.jpg" width="495" height="500" alt="FURNESS ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FURNESS ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>The irregularly-shaped district of Lancashire partly cut off from the +remainder of the county by an arm of the Irish Sea is known as Furness. +It is a wild and rugged region, best known from the famous Furness Abbey +and its port of Barrow-in-Furness, one of the most remarkable examples +in England of quick city growth. Forty years ago this was an +insignificant fishing village; now Barrow has magnificent docks and a +fine harbor protected by the natural breakwater of Walney Island, great +iron-foundries and the largest jute-manufactory in the world; while it +has recently also became a favorite port for iron shipbuilding. About +two miles distant, and in a romantic glen called the Valley of Deadly +Nightshade, not far from the sea, is one of the finest examples of +mediæval church-architecture in England, the ruins of Furness Abbey, +founded in the twelfth century by King Stephen and Maud, his queen. It +was a splendid abbey, standing high in rank and power, its income in the +reign of Edward I. being $90,000 a year, an enormous sum for that early +day. The ruins are in fine preservation, and effigies of Stephen and +Maud are on each side of the great east window. For twelve reigns the +charters of sovereigns and bulls of popes confirmed the abbots of +Furness in their extraordinary powers, which extended over the district +of Furness, while the situation of the abbey made them military +chieftains, and they erected a watch-tower on a high hill, from which +signals alarmed the coast on the approach of an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> enemy. The church is +three hundred and four feet long, and from the centre rose a tower, +three of the massive supporting pillars of which remain, but the tower +has fallen and lies a mass of rubbish; the stained glass from the great +east window having been removed to Bowness Church, in Westmorelandshire. +The abbey enclosure, covering eighty-five acres, was surrounded by a +wall, the ruins of which are now covered with thick foliage. This +renowned abbey was surrendered and dismantled in Henry VIII.'s reign; +the present hotel near the ruins was formerly the abbot's residence.</p> + +<p>The river Ribble, which flows into the Irish Sea through a wide estuary, +drains the western slopes of the Pennine Hills, which divide Lancashire +from Yorkshire. Up in the north-western portion of Lancashire, near the +bases of these hills, is a moist region known as the parish of Mitton, +where, as the poet tells us,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The Hodder, the Calder, Ribble, and rain</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All meet together in Mitton domain."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>In Mitton parish, amid the woods along the Hodder and on the north side +of the valley of the Ribble, stands the splendid domed towers of the +baronial edifice of Stonyhurst, now the famous Jesuit College of +England, where the sons of the Catholic nobility and gentry are +educated. The present building is about three hundred years old, and +quaint gardens adjoin it, while quite an extensive park surrounds the +college. Not far away are Clytheroe Castle and the beautiful ruins of +Whalley Abbey. The Stonyhurst gardens are said to remain substantially +as their designer, Sir Nicholas Sherburne, left them. A capacious +water-basin is located in the centre, with the leaden statue of Regulus +in chains standing in the midst of the water. Summer-houses with tall +pointed roofs are at each lower extremity of the garden, while an +observatory is upon a commanding elevation. Tall screens of clipped +yews, cut square ten feet high and five feet thick, divide the beds upon +one side of the gardens, so that as you walk among them you are +enveloped in a green yet pleasant solitude. Arched doorways are cut +through the yews, and in one place, descending by broad and easy steps, +there is a solemn, cool, and twilight walk formed by the overarching +yews, the very place for religious meditation. Then, reascending, this +sombre walk opens into air and sunshine amid delicious flower-gardens. +On the opposite side of the gardens are walls hung with fruit, and +plantations of kitchen vegetables. This charming place was fixed upon by +the Jesuits for their college in 1794, when driven from Liège by the +proscriptions of the French Revolution. The old building and the +additions then erected enclose a large quadrangular court. In the front +of the college, at the southern angle, is a fine little Gothic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> church, +built fifty years ago. The college refectory is a splendid baronial +hall. In the Mitton village-church near by are the tombs of the +Sherburne family, the most singular monument being that to Sir Richard +and his lady, which the villagers point out as "old Fiddle o' God and +his wife"—Fiddle o' God being his customary exclamation when angry, +which tradition says was not seldom. The figures are kneeling—he in +ruff and jerkin, she in black gown and hood, with tan-leather gloves +extending up her arms. These figures, being highly colored, as was the +fashion in the olden time, have a ludicrous appearance. We are told that +when these monuments came from London they were the talk of the whole +country round. A stonemason bragged that he could cut out as good a +figure in common stone. Taken at his word, he was put to the test, and +carved the effigy of a knight in freestone which so pleased the +Sherburne family that they gave him one hundred dollars for it, and it +is now set in the wall outside the church, near the monuments.</p> + + +<h3>LANCASTER CASTLE.</h3> + +<p><a name="p058" id="p058"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> + +<img src="images/p058.jpg" width="360" height="450" alt="CASTLE SQUARE, LANCASTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CASTLE SQUARE, LANCASTER.</span> +</div> + +<p>John of Gaunt, "time-honored Lancaster," was granted the Duchy of +Lancaster by his father, King Edward III., but the place which stands +upon the river Lune is of much greater antiquity. It was a Roman camp, +and hence its name. The Picts destroyed it when the Romans left; the +Saxons afterwards restored it, and ultimately it gave the name to the +county. King John gave the town a charter, and John of Gaunt rebuilt the +fortress, which became indissolubly connected with the fortunes of the +House of Lancaster. Though sometimes besieged, it was maintained more +for purposes of state than of war, and two centuries ago it still +existed in all its ancient splendor, commanding the city and the sea. +Lancaster stands on the slope of an eminence rising from the river Lune, +and the castle-towers crown the summit, the fortress being spacious, +with a large courtyard and variously-shaped towers. The keep is square, +enormously strong, and defended by two semi-octagonal towers. This keep +is known as "John of Gaunt's Chair,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> and commands a fine view of the +surrounding country and far away across the sea to the distant outlines +of the Isle of Man. This famous castle, partly modernized, is now used +for the county jail and courts, the prison-chapel being in the keep. In +the town several large manufactories attest the presiding genius of +Lancashire, and the inn is the comfortable and old-fashioned King's Arms +described by Dickens.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<img src="images/p058-1.jpg" width="289" height="500" alt="BRADDA HEAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRADDA HEAD.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>ISLE OF MAN.</h3> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +<img src="images/p059-2.jpg" width="450" height="426" alt="KIRK BRADDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KIRK BRADDEN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 234px;"> +<img src="images/p060.jpg" width="234" height="450" alt="RHENASS WATERFALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RHENASS WATERFALL.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br /><br />Let us go off from the Lancashire coast to that strange island which +lies in the sea midway between England, Scotland, and Ireland, and whose +bold shores are visible from "John of Gaunt's Chair." It stretches for +thirty-three miles from its northern extremity at the point of Ayre to +the bold detached cliffs of the little islet at the southern end known +as the Calf of Man. Covering two hundred and twenty-seven square miles +area, its coasts are irregular, its shores in several places +precipitous, and a range of mountains traverses the entire island, the +highest peak being Snaefell, rising 2024 feet, with North Barrule at one +extremity and Cronk-ny-Jay Llaa, or "The Hill of the Rising Day," at the +other. Man is a miniature kingdom, with its reproduction, sometimes in +dwarf, of everything that other kingdoms have. It has four little +rivers, the Neb, Colby, Black and Gray Waters, with little gems of +cascades; has its own dialect, the Manx, and a parliament in miniature, +known as the Council, or Upper House, and the House of Keys. It is a +healthful resort, for all the winds that blow come from the sea, and its +sea-views are striking, the rugged masses of Bradda Head, the +mellow-coloring of the Calf, and the broad expanse of waters, dotted by +scores of fishing-boats, making many scenes of artistic merit. While the +want of trees makes the land-views harsh and cold, yet the glens and +coves opening into the sea are the charms of Manx scenery, the high +fuchsia-hedges surrounding many of the cottages giving bright coloring +to the landscape when the flowers are in bloom. It is a beautiful place +when once the tourist is able to land there, but the wharf arrangements +are not so good as they might be. Once landed, the visitor usually first +proceeds to solve the great zoological problem the island has long +presented to the outer world, and finds that the Isle of Man does really +possess a breed of tailless cats, whose caudal extremity is either +altogether wanting or at most is reduced to a merely rudimental +substitute.</p> + + + + +<h3>CASTLE RUSHEN.</h3> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p061.jpg" width="600" height="491" alt="CASTLE RUSHEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CASTLE RUSHEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>Landing at the capital, Castletown, it is found that it gets its name +from the ancient castle of Rushen, around which the town is built. +Guttred the Dane is said to have built this castle nine hundred years +ago, and to be buried beneath it, although Cardinal Wolsey constructed +the surrounding stone glacis. The keep—into which the prisoners had to +be lowered by ropes—and several parts of the interior buildings remain +almost entire, but repeated sieges so wrecked the other portions that +they have had to be restored. At the castle-entrance were stone chairs +for the governor and judges. It was here that the eminent men who have +ruled the Isle of Man presided, among them being Regulus, who was King +of Man, and the famous Percy, who was attainted of high treason in 1403. +Afterwards it was ruled by the Earls of Derby, who relinquished the +title of king and took that of Lord of Man, holding their sovereignty +until they sold it and the castles and patronage of the island to the +Crown in 1764 for $350,000. With such a history it is natural that +Castle Rushen should have a weird interest attached to it, and the +ancient chroniclers tell of a mysterious apartment within "which has +never been opened in the memory of man." Tradition says that this famous +castle was first inhabited by fairies, and afterwards by the giants, +until Merlin, by his magic power, dislodged most of the giants and bound +the others in spells. In proof of this it is said there are fine +apartments underneath the ground, to explore which several venturesome +persons have gone down, only one of whom ever returned. To save the +lives of the reckless would be explorers, therefore, this mysterious +apartment, which gives entrance underground, is kept shut. The one who +returned is described as an "explorer of uncommon courage," who managed +to get back by the help of a clue of packthread which he took with him, +and was thus able to retrace his steps. He had a wondrous tale to tell. +After passing a number of vaults, and through a long, narrow passage +which descended for more than a mile, he saw a little gleam of light, +and gladly sought it out. The light came from a magnificent house, +brilliantly illuminated. Having "well fortified himself with brandy +before beginning the exploration," he courageously knocked at the door, +and at the third knock a servant appeared, demanding what was wanted. He +asked for directions how to proceed farther, as the house seemed to +block the passage. The servant, after some parley, led him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> through the +house and out at the back door. He walked a long distance, and then +beheld another house, more magnificent than the first, where, the +windows being open, he saw innumerable lamps burning in all the rooms. +He was about to knock, but first had the curiosity to peep through a +window into the parlor. There was a large black marble table in the +middle of the room, and on it lay at full length a giant who, the +explorer says, was "at least fourteen feet long and ten feet round the +body." The giant lay with his head pillowed on a book, as if asleep, and +there was a prodigious sword alongside him, proportioned to the hand +that was to use it. This sight was so terrifying that the explorer made +the best of his way back to the first house, where the servant told him +that if he had knocked at the giant's door he would have had company +enough, but would have never returned. He desired to know what place it +was, but was told, "These things are not to be revealed." Then he made +his way back to daylight by the aid of the clue of packthread as quickly +as possible, and we are told that no one has ventured down there since. +This is but one of the many tales of mystery surrounding the venerable +Rushen Castle.</p> + + +<h3>PEELE CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p063" id="p063"></a> +<img src="images/p063.jpg" width="650" height="502" alt="PEELE CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PEELE CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Isle of Man derives its name from the ancient British word <i>mon</i>, +which means "isolated." Around this singular place there are many rocky +islets, also isolated, and upon one of the most picturesque of these, +where art and Nature have vied in adding strength to beauty, is built +the castle of Peele, off the western coast, overlooking the distant +shores of Ireland. This castle is perched upon a huge rock, rising for a +great height out of the sea, and completely inaccessible, except by the +approach which has been constructed on the side towards the Isle of Man, +where the little town of Peele is located. After crossing the arm of the +sea separating the castle from the town, the visitor, landing at the +foot of the rock, ascends about sixty steps, cut out of it, to the first +wall, which is massive and high, and built of the old red sandstone in +which the island abounds; the gates in this wall are of wood, curiously +arched and carved, and four little watch-towers on the wall overlook the +sea. Having entered, he mounts by another shorter stairway cut out of +the rock to the second wall, built like the other, and both of them full +of portholes for cannon. Passing through yet a third wall, there is +found a broad plain upon the top of the rock, where stands the castle, +surrounded by four churches, three almost entirely ruined; the other +church (St. Germain's) is kept in some repair because it has within the +bishop's chapel, while beneath is a horrible dungeon where the sea runs +in and out through hollows of the rock with a continual roar; a steep +and narrow stairway descends to the dungeon and burial-vaults,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> and +within are thirteen pillars supporting the chapel above. Beware, if +going down, of failing to count the pillars, for we are told that he who +neglects this is sure to do something that will occasion his confinement +in this dreadful dungeon. This famous castle of Peele even in its +partly-ruined state has several noble apartments, and here were located +some of the most interesting scenes of Scott's novel of <i>Peveril of the +Peak</i>. It was in former days a state-prison, and in it were at one time +confined Warwick the King-maker, and also Gloucester's haughty wife, +Eleanor; her discontented spectre was said to haunt the battlements in +former years, and stand motionless beside one of the watch-towers, only +disappearing when the cock crew or church-bell tolled: another +apparition, a shaggy spaniel known as the Manthe Doog, also haunted the +castle, particularly the guard-chamber, where the dog came and lay down +at candlelight; the soldiers lost much of their terror by the frequency +of the sight, but none of them liked to be left alone with him, though +he did not molest them. The dog came out by a passage through the church +where the soldiers had to go to deliver the keys to their captain, and +for moral support they never went that way alone. One of the soldiers, +we are told, on a certain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> night, "being much disguised in liquor" (for +spirits of various kinds appear in the Isle of Man, as most other +places), insisted upon going with the keys alone, and could not be +dissuaded; he said he was determined to discover whether the apparition +was dog or devil, and, snatching the keys, departed: soon there was a +great noise, but none ventured to ascertain the cause. When the soldier +returned he was speechless and horror-stricken, nor would he ever by +word or sign tell what had happened to him, but soon died in agony; then +the passage was walled up, and the Manthe Doog was never more seen at +Castle Peele.</p> + + +<h3>THE LAKE COUNTRY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/p064.jpg" width="550" height="542" alt="A GLIMPSE OF DERWENTWATER, FROM SCAFELL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A GLIMPSE OF DERWENTWATER, FROM SCAFELL.</span> +</div> + +<p>North of Lancashire, in the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, is +the famous "Lake Country" of England. It does not cover a large area—in +fact, a good pedestrian can walk from one extremity of the region to the +other in a day—but its compact beauties have a charm of rugged outline +and luxuriant detail that in a condensed form reproduce the Alpine lakes +of Northern Italy. Derwentwater is conceded to be the finest of these +English lakes, but there is also great beauty in Windermere and +Ulleswater, Buttermere and Wastwater. The Derwent runs like a thread +through the glassy bead of Derwentwater, a magnificent oval lake set +among the hills, about three miles long and half that breadth, alongside +which rises the frowning Mount Skiddaw with its pair of rounded heads. +In entering the Lake Region from the Lancashire side we first come to +the pretty Windermere Lake, the largest of these inland sheets of water, +about ten miles long and one mile broad in the widest part. From Orrest +Head, near the village of Windermere, there is a magnificent view of the +lake from end to end, though tourists prefer usually to go to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +village of Bowness on the bank, where steamers start at frequent +intervals and make the circuit of the pretty lake. From Bowness the +route is by Rydal Mount, where the poet Wordsworth lived, to Koswick, +about twenty-three miles distant, on Derwentwater.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 489px;"> +<img src="images/p065.jpg" width="489" height="650" alt="FALLS OF LODORE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FALLS OF LODORE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The attractive Derwent flows down through the Borrowdale Valley past +Seathwaite, where for many a year there has been worked a famous mine of +plumbago: we use it for lead-pencils, but our English ancestors, while +making it valuable for marking their sheep, prized it still more highly +as a remedy for colic and other human ills. There are several +pencil-mills in the village, which, in addition to other claims for +fame, is noted as one of the rainiest spots in England, the annual +rainfall at Seathwaite sometimes reaching one hundred and eighty-two +inches. The Derwent flows on through a gorge past the isolated pyramidal +rock known as Castle Crag, and the famous Bowder Stone, which has fallen +into the gorge from the crags above, to the hamlet of Grange, where a +picturesque bridge spans the little river. We are told that the +inhabitants once built a wall across the narrowest part of this valley: +having long noticed the coincident appearance of spring and the cuckoo, +they rashly concluded that the latter was the cause of the former, and +that if they could only retain the bird their pleasant valley would +enjoy perpetual spring; they built the wall as spring lengthened into +summer, and with the autumn came the crisis. The wall had risen to a +considerable height when the cuckoo with the approach of colder weather +was sounding its somewhat asthmatic notes as it moved from tree to tree +down the valley; it neared the wall, and as the population held their +breath it suddenly flew over, and carried the spring away with it down +the Derwent. Judge of the popular disgust when the sages of that region +complainingly remarked that, having crossed but a few inches above the +topmost stones of the wall, if the builders had only carried it a course +or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> two higher the cuckoo might have been kept at home, and their valley +thus have enjoyed a perennial spring.</p> + +<p>The Derwent flows on along its gorge, which has been slowly ground out +by a glacier in past ages, and enters the lake through the marshy, flat, +reedy delta that rather detracts from the appearance of its upper end. +Not far away a small waterfall comes tumbling over the crags among the +foliage; this miniature Niagara has a fame almost as great as the mighty +cataract of the New World, for it is the "Fall of Lodore," about which, +in answer to his little boy's question, "How does the water come down at +Lodore?" Southey wrote his well-known poem that is such a triumph of +versification, and from which this is a quotation:</p> + +<p style="clear: both;"> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Flying and flinging, writhing and wringing,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eddying and whisking, spouting and frisking,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Turning and twisting</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Around and around, with endless rebound,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smiting and fighting, a sight to delight in,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Confounding, astounding.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All at once, and all o'er, with mighty uproar—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And this way the water conies down at Lodore."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Thus we reach the border of Derwentwater, nestling beneath the fells and +crags, as its miniature surrounding mountains are called. Little wooded +islets dimple the surface of the lake, in the centre being the largest, +St. Herbert's Island, where once that saint lived in a solitary cell: he +was the bosom friend of St. Cuthbert, the missionary of Northumberland, +and made an annual pilgrimage over the Pennine Hills to visit him; +loving each other in life, in death they were not divided, for +Wordsworth tells us that</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"These holy men both died in the same hour."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Another islet is known as Lord's Island, where now the rooks are in full +possession, but where once was the home of the ill-fated Earl of +Derwentwater, who was beheaded in 1716 for espousing the Pretender's +cause. It is related that before his execution on Tower Hill he closely +viewed the block, and finding a rough place which might offend his neck, +he bade the headsman chip it off; this done, he cheerfully placed his +head upon it, gave the sign, and died: his estates were forfeited and +settled by the king on Greenwich Hospital. Castle Hill rises boldly on +the shore above Derwent Isle, where there is a pretty residence, and +every few years there is added to the other islets on the bosom of the +lake the "Floating Island," a mass of vegetable matter that becomes +detached from the marsh at the upper end. At Friar's Crag, beneath +Castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> Hill, the lake begins to narrow, and at Portinscale the Derwent +flows out, receives the waters of the Greta coming from Keswick, and, +after flowing a short distance through the meadow-land, expands again +into Bassenthwaite Lake, a region of somewhat tamer yet still beautiful +scenery.</p> + +<p>The town of Keswick stands some distance back from the border of +Derwentwater, and is noted as having been the residence of Southey. In +Greta Hall, an unpretentious house in the town, Southey lived for forty +years, dying there in 1843. He was laid to rest in the parish church of +Crosthwaite, just outside the town. At the pretty little church there is +a marble altar-tomb, the inscription on which to Southey's memory was +written by Wordsworth. Greta Hall was also for three years the home of +Coleridge, the two families dwelling under the same roof. Behind the +modest house rises Skiddaw, the bare crags of the rounded summits being +elevated over three thousand feet, and beyond it the hills and moors of +the Skiddaw Forest stretch northward to the Solway, with the Scruffel +Hill beyond. Upon a slope of the mountain, not far from Keswick, is a +Druids' circle, whose builders scores of centuries ago watched the mists +on Skiddaw's summit, as the people there do now, to foretell a change of +weather as the clouds might rise or fall, for they tell us that</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If Skiddaw hath a cap,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scruffel wots full well of that."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<h3>THE BORDER CASTLES.</h3> + +<p>At Kendal, in Westmorelandshire, are the ruins of Kendal Castle, a relic +of the Norman days, but long since gone to decay. Here lived the +ancestors of King Henry VIII.'s last wife, Queen Catharine Parr. +Opposite it are the ruins of Castle How, and not far away the quaint +appendage known as Castle Dairy, replete with heraldic carvings. It was +in the town of Kendal that was made the foresters' woollen cloth known +as "Kendal green," which was the uniform of Robin Hood's band.</p> + +<p>In the northern part of the county, on the military road to Carlisle, +are the ruins of Brougham Castle, built six hundred years ago. It was +here that the Earl of Cumberland magnificently entertained King James I. +for three days on one of his journeys out of Scotland. It is famous as +the home of the late Henry, Lord Brougham, whose ancestors held it for +many generations. The manor-house, known as Brougham Hall, has such +richness, variety, and extent of prospect from its terraces that it is +called the "Windsor of the North." Lord Brougham was much attached to +his magnificent home, and it was here in 1860 that he finished his +comprehensive work on the <i>British Constitution</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> and wrote its famous +dedication to the queen, beginning with the memorable words, "Madame, I +presume to lay at Your Majesty's feet a work the 'result of many years' +diligent study, much calm reflection, and a long life's experience." In +close proximity to the castle is the Roman station Brocavum, founded by +Agricola in <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 79. Its outline is clearly defined, the camp within the +inner ditch measuring almost one thousand feet square. Various Roman +roads lead from it, and much of the materials of the outworks were built +into the original Brougham Castle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p068.jpg" width="600" height="553" alt="ROAD THROUGH CATHEDRAL CLOSE, CARLISLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROAD THROUGH CATHEDRAL CLOSE, CARLISLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Solway and its firth divide England from Scotland, and this +borderland has been the scene of many deadly feuds, though happily only +in the days long agone. The castle of Carlisle was a noted border +stronghold, built of red sandstone by King William Rufus, who rebuilt +Carlisle, which had then lain in ruins two hundred years because of the +forays of the Danes. Richard III. enlarged the castle, and Henry VIII. +built the citadel. Here Mary Queen of Scots was once lodged, but in +Elizabeth's time the castle fell into decay. In the town is a fine +cathedral, which has been thoroughly restored. In a flat situation north +of Carlisle are the ruins of Scaleby Castle, once a fortress of great +strength, but almost battered to pieces when it resisted Cromwell's +forces. There are several acres enclosed within the moat, intended for +the cattle when driven in to escape the forays that came over the +border. This venerable castle is now a picturesque ruin. Twelve miles +north-east of Carlisle is Naworth Castle, near where the Roman Wall +crossed England. This is one of the finest feudal remains in Cumberland, +having been the stronghold of the Wardens of the Marches, who guarded +the border from Scottish incursions. It stands amid fine scenery, and +just to the southward is the Roman Wall, of which many remains are still +traced, while upon the high moorland in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> the neighborhood is the paved +Roman Road, twelve feet wide and laid with stone. At Naworth there was +always a strong garrison, for the border was rarely at peace, and</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p069.jpg" width="450" height="356" alt="VIEW ON TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW ON TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY.</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Stern on the angry confines Naworth rose,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In dark woods islanded; its towers looked forth</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And frowned defiance on the angry North."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Here lived, with a host of retainers, the famous "belted Will"—Lord +William Howard, son of the fourth Duke of Norfolk—who in the early part +of the seventeenth century finally brought peace to the border by his +judicious exercise for many years of the Warden's powers. It is of this +famous soldier and chivalrous knight, whose praises are even yet sung in +the borderland, that Scott has written—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Howard, than whom knight</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Was never dubbed more bold in fight,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor, when from war and armor free.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">More famed for stately courtesy."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III.</h2> + +<h3>LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Peak of Derbyshire—Castleton—Bess of Hardwicke—Hardwicke +Hall—Bolsover Castle—The Wye and the +Derwent—Buxton—Bakewell—Haddon Hall—The King of the +Peak—Dorothy Vernon—Rowsley—The Peacock Inn—Chatsworth—The +Victoria Regia—Matlock—Dovedale—Beauchief Abbey—Stafford +Castle—Trentham Hall—Tamworth—Tutbury Castle—Chartley +Castle—Alton Towers—Shrewsbury Castle—Bridgenorth—Wenlock +Abbey—Ludlow Castle—The Feathers Inn—Lichfield Cathedral—Dr. +Samuel Johnson—Coventry—Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom—Belvoir +Castle—Charnwood Forest—Groby and Bradgate—Elizabeth Widvile and +Lady Jane Grey—Ulverscroft Priory—Grace Dieu Abbey—Ashby de la +Zouche—Langley Priory—Leicester Abbey and Castle—Bosworth +Field—Edgehill—Naseby—The Land of +Shakespeare—Stratford-on-Avon—Warwick—Kenilworth—Birmingham—Boulton +and Watt—Fotheringhay Castle—Holmby House—Bedford Castle—John +Bunyan—Woburn Abbey and the Russells—Stowe—Whaddon Hall—Great +Hampden—Creslow House.</p></div> + + +<h3>THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE.</h3> + +<p>The river Mersey takes its sources—for it is formed by the union of +several smaller streams—in the ranges of high limestone hills east of +Liverpool, in North Derbyshire. These hills are an extension of the +Pennine range that makes the backbone of England, and in Derbyshire they +rise to a height of nearly two thousand feet, giving most picturesque +scenery. The broad top of the range at its highest part is called the +Kinderscout, or, more familiarly, "The Peak." The mountain-top is a vast +moor, abounding in deep holes and water-pools, uninhabited excepting by +the stray sportsman or tourist, and dangerous and difficult to cross. +Yet, once mounted to the top, there are good views of the wild scenery +of the Derbyshire hills, with the villages nestling in the glens, and of +the "Kinder Fall," where much of the water from the summit pours down a +cataract of some five hundred feet height, while not far away is the +"Mermaid's Pool," where, if you go at the midnight hour that ushers in +Easter Sunday, and look steadily into the water, you will see a mermaid. +The man who ventures upon that treacherous bogland by night certainly +deserves to see the best mermaid the Peak can produce. This limestone +region is a famous place. In the sheltered valley to the westward of the +Kinderscout is the village of Castleton, almost covered in by high hills +on all sides. It was here upon a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> bold cliff to the southward of the +village that "Peveril of the Peak" built his renowned castle at the time +of the Norman Conquest, of which only the ruins of the keep and part of +the outer walls remain. Almost inaccessible, it possessed the +extraordinary powers of defence that were necessary in those troublous +times, and here its founder gave a grand tournament, to which young +knights came from far and near, the successful knight of Lorraine being +rewarded by his daughter's hand. In the time of Edward III. this "Castle +of the Peak" reverted to the Crown, but now it is held by the Duke of +Devonshire. Under the hill on which the ruins stand is the "Cavern of +the Peak," with a fine entrance in a gloomy recess formed by a chasm in +the rocks. This entrance makes a Gothic arch over one thousand feet +wide, above which the rock towers nearly three hundred feet, and it is +chequered with colored stones. Within is a vast flat-roofed cavern, at +the farther side being a lake over which the visitors are ferried in a +boat. Other caverns are within, the entire cave extending nearly a half +mile, a little river traversing its full length. There are more and +similar caverns in the neighborhood.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/p071.jpg" width="550" height="558" alt="PEVERIL CASTLE, CASTLETON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PEVERIL CASTLE, CASTLETON.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>BESS OF HARDWICKE.</h3> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> + + +<p class="author"><a name="p072" id="p072"></a><span class="caption">HARDWICKE HALL.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p072.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:600px; height:400px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:220px; height:100px;"> </div> + + +<p>One of the great characters of the sixteenth century was Elizabeth, +Countess of Shrewsbury, familiarly known as "Bess of Hardwicke," where +she was born, and who managed to outlive four husbands, thus showing +what success is in store for a woman of tact and business talent. She +was a penniless bride at fourteen, when she married an opulent gentleman +of Derbyshire named Barley, who left her at fifteen a wealthy widow. At +the age of thirty she married another rich husband, Sir William +Cavendish, the ancestor of the Dukes of Devonshire, who died in 1557, +leaving her again a widow, but with large estates, for she had taken +good care to look after the proper marriage settlements; and in fact, +even in those early days, a pretty good fortune was necessary to provide +for the family of eight children Sir William left her. She next married +Sir William Loe, who also had large estates and was the captain of the +king's guard, the lady's business tact procuring in advance of the +wedding the settlement of these estates upon herself and her children—a +hard condition, with which, the historian tells us, "the gallant +captain, who had a family by a former marriage, felt himself constrained +to comply or forego his bride." But in time the captain died, and his +estates all went to the thrifty lady, to the exclusion of his own +family; and to the blooming widow, thus made for the third time, there +came a-courting the Earl of Shrewsbury; the earl had numerous offspring, +and therefore could hardly give Bess all his possessions, like her other +husbands, but she was clever enough to obtain her object in another way. +As a condition precedent to accepting the earl, she made him marry two +of his children to two of hers, and after seeing these two weddings +solemnized, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> earl led her to the altar for the fourth time at the +age of fifty; and we are told that all four of these weddings were +actual "love-matches." But she did not get on well with the earl, whose +correspondence shows she was a little shrewish, though in most quarrels +she managed to come off ahead, having by that time acquired experience. +When the earl died in 1590, and Bess concluded not again to attempt +matrimony, she was immensely rich and was seized with a mania for +building, which has left to the present day three memorable houses: +Hardwicke Hall, where she lived, Bolsover Castle, and the palace of +Chatsworth, which she began, and on which she lavished the enormous sum, +for that day, of $400,000. The legend runs that she was told that so +long as she kept building her life would be spared—an architect's ruse +possibly; and when finally she died it was during a period of hard +frost, when the masons could not work.</p> + + +<p>Hardwicke Hall, near Mansfield, which the renowned Bess has left as one +of her monuments, is about three hundred years old, and approached by a +noble avenue through a spacious park; it is still among the possessions +of the Cavendish family and in the Duke of Devonshire's estates. The old +hall where Bess was born almost touches the new one that she built, and +which bears the initials of the proud and determined woman in many +places outside and in. It was here that Mary Queen of Scots was held in +captivity part of the time that she was placed by Queen Elizabeth in the +custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and her statue stands in the hall. +There is an extensive picture-gallery containing many historical +portraits, and also fine state-apartments. The mansion is a lofty oblong +stone structure, with tall square towers at each corner, the +architecture being one of the best specimens of the Elizabethan Period; +on the side, as viewed from the park, the hall seems all windows, which +accounts for the saying of that neighborhood:</p></div> + +<p class="center"> +"Hardwicke Hall, more glass than wall." +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="p073" id="p073"></a> +<img src="images/p073.jpg" width="400" height="396" alt="ELIZABETHAN STAIRCASE, HARDWICKE HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ELIZABETHAN STAIRCASE, HARDWICKE HALL.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The ruins of the old hall, almost overgrown with ivy, are picturesque, +but from everywhere on the ancient or on the modern hall there peer out +the initials "E. S.," with which the prudent Bess was so careful to mark +all her possessions.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>BOLSOVER CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p074.jpg" width="500" height="463" alt="BOLSOVER CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BOLSOVER CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The noted Bolsover Castle, which Bess also built, though her son +finished it after her death, stands in a magnificent position on a high +plateau not far from Chesterfield, overlooking a wide expanse of +Derbyshire. The present castle replaced an ancient structure that had +fallen into ruin, and was supposed to have been built by "Peveril of the +Peak;" it was fortified during King John's time, and traces of the +fortifications still remain; it was repeatedly besieged and taken by +assault. The present building is a square and lofty mansion of +castellated appearance, with towers at the corners built of brown stone; +in it the Earl of Newcastle, who subsequently inherited it, spent on one +occasion $75,000 in entertaining King Charles I., the entire country +round being invited to come and attend the king: Ben Jonson performed a +play for his amusement. Lord Clarendon speaks of the occasion as "such +an excess of feasting as had scarce ever been known in England before." +It now belongs to the Duke of Portland, and has fallen into partial +decay, with trees growing in some of the deserted apartments and ivy +creeping along the walls. Visitors describe it as a ghostly house, with +long vaulted passages, subterranean chambers, dungeon-like holes in the +towers, and mysterious spaces beneath the vaults whence come weird +noises. When Mr. Jennings visited Bolsover recently he described it as +like a haunted house, and after examining the apartments, in which most +things seemed going to decay, he went down stairs, guided by an old +woman, to the cellars and passages that are said to be the remains of +the original Norman castle. A chamber with a high vaulted roof was used +as a kitchen, and an ancient stone passage connected it with a crypt; +beneath this, she told him, there was a church, never opened since the +days of Peveril. Their voices had a hollow sound, and their footsteps +awakened echoes as if from a large empty space beneath: the servants, +she said, were afraid to come down where they were, excepting by twos +and threes, and she added: "Many people have seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> things here besides +me: something bad has been done here, sir, and when they open that +church below they'll find it out. Just where you stand by that door I +have several times seen a lady and gentleman—only for a moment or two, +for they come like a flash; when I have been sitting in the kitchen, not +thinking of any such thing, they stood there—the gentleman with ruffles +on, the lady with a scarf round her waist; I never believed in ghosts, +but I have seen <i>them</i>. I am used to it now, and don't mind it, but we +do not like the noises, because they disturb us. Not long ago my +husband, who comes here at night, and I could not sleep at all, and we +thought at last that somebody had got shut up in the castle, for some +children had been here that day; so we lit a candle and went all over +it, but there was nothing, only the noises following us, and keeping on +worse than ever after we left the rooms, though they stopped while we +were in them." The old woman's tale shows the atmosphere there is about +this sombre and ghostly castle of Bolsover.</p> + + +<h3>THE WYE AND THE DERWENT.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p075.jpg" width="650" height="313" alt="THE CRESCENT, BUXTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CRESCENT, BUXTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>These two noted rivers take their rise in the Derbyshire hills, and, +coming together at Rowsley near the pretty Peacock Inn, flow down to the +sea through the valleys of the Wye, the Trent, and the Humber. Rising in +the limestone hills to the north of Buxton, the Wye flows past that +celebrated bath, where the Romans first set the example of seeking its +healing waters, both hot and cold springs gushing from the rocks in +close proximity. It stands nine hundred feet above the sea, its nucleus, +"The Crescent," having been built by the Duke of Devonshire; and the +miraculous cures wrought by St. Mary's Well are noted by Charles Cotton +among the <i>Wonders of the Peak</i>. From Buxton<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the Wye follows a romantic +glen to Bakewell, the winding valley being availed of, by frequent +tunnels, viaducts, and embankments, as a route for the Midland Railway. +In this romantic glen is the remarkable limestone crag known as Chee +Tor, where the curving valley contracts into a narrow gorge. The gray +limestone cliffs are in many places overgrown with ivy, while trees find +rooting-places in their fissures. Tributary brooks fall into the Wye, +all flowing through miniature dales that disclose successive beauties, +and then at a point where the limestone hills recede from the river, +expanding the valley, Bakewell is reached. Here are also mineral +springs, but the most important place in the town is the parish church, +parts of which are seven hundred years old. It is a picturesque +building, cruciform, with a spire, and is rich in sepulchral remains, +containing the ancestors of the Duke of Rutland—who owns the town—in +the tombs of a long line of Vernons and Manners. In the churchyard are +several curious epitaphs, among them that of John Dale and his two +wives, the inscription concluding,</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;"> +<img src="images/p076.jpg" width="339" height="450" alt="BAKEWELL CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BAKEWELL CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"A period's come to all their toylsome lives;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The good man's quiet—still are both his wives."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>In this churchyard is also the well-known epitaph often quoted:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Beneath a sleeping infant lies, to earth whose body lent,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">More glorious shall hereafter rise, tho' not more innocent.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When the archangels trump shall blow, and souls to bodies join,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Millions will wish their lives below had been as short as thine."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<h3>HADDON HALL.</h3> + +<p>Three miles below Bakewell, near the Wye, is one of the most famous old +mansions of England—Haddon Hall. This ancient baronial home, with its +series of houses, its courtyards, towers, embattled walls, and gardens, +stands on the side of a hill sloping down to the Wye, while the railway +has pierced a tunnel through the hill almost underneath the structure. +The buildings surround two courtyards paved with large stones, and cover +a space of nearly three hundred feet square. Outside the arched +entrance-gate to the first courtyard is a low thatched cottage used as a +porter's lodge. Haddon is maintained, not as a residence, but to give as +perfect an idea as possible of a baronial hall of the Middle Ages. To +get to the entrance the visitor toils up a rather steep hill, and on the +way passes two remarkable yew trees, cut to represent the crests of the +two families whose union by a romantic marriage is one of the traditions +of this famous place. One yew represents the peacock of Manners,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> the +present ducal house of Rutland, and the other the boar's head of Vernon. +Parts of this house, like so many structures in the neighborhood, were +built in the time of "Peveril of the Peak," and its great hall was the +"Martindale Hall" of Scott's novel, thus coming down to us through eight +centuries, and nearly all the buildings are at least four hundred years +old.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p077.jpg" width="600" height="317" alt="HADDON HALL, FROM THE WYE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HADDON HALL, FROM THE WYE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Entering the gateway, the porter's guard-room is seen on the right hand, +with the ancient "peephole" through which he scanned visitors before +admitting them. Mounting the steps to the first courtyard, which is on a +lower level than the other, the chapel and the hall are seen on either +hand, while in front are the steps leading to the state-apartments. The +buildings are not lofty, but there are second-floor rooms in almost all +parts, which were occupied by the household. There is an extensive +ball-room, while the Eagle Tower rises at one corner of the court. Many +relics of the olden time are preserved in these apartments. The ancient +chapel is entered by an arched doorway from the court, and consists of a +nave, chancel, and side aisle, with an antique Norman font and a large +high-back pew used by the family. After passing the court, the +banquet-hall is entered, thirty-five by twenty-five feet, and rising to +the full height of the building. In one of the doorways is a bracket to +which an iron ring is attached, which was used, as we are told, "to +enforce the laws of conviviality." When a guest failed to drink his +allowance of wine he was suspended by the wrist to this ring, and the +liquor he failed to pour down his throat was poured into his sleeve. A +tall screen at the end of the room formed the front of a gallery, where +on great occasions minstrels discoursed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> sweet music, while at the +opposite end the lord and his honored guests sat on a raised dais. Here +still stands the old table, while behind the dais a flight of stairs +leads up to the state-apartments. Stags' heads and antlers of great age +are on the walls. Another door opens out of the banquet-hall into the +dining-room, the end of which is entirely taken up with a fine Gothic +window displaying the Vernon arms and quarterings. This room is +elaborately wainscoted. The royal arms are inscribed over the fireplace, +and below them is the Vernon motto carved in Gothic letters:</p> + +<h2> +"Drede God and Honour the Kyng."<br /> +</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 373px;"> +<img src="images/p078.jpg" width="373" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE BANQUET-HALL, HADDON HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE BANQUET-HALL, HADDON HALL.</span> +</div> + + + +<p>An exquisite oriel window looks out from this room over the woods and +grounds of Haddon, the recess bearing on one of its panels the head of +Will Somers, who was Henry VIII.'s jester. The drawing-room, which is +over the dining-room, is hung with old tapestry, above which is a frieze +of ornamental mouldings. A pretty recessed window also gives from this +room a delightful view over the grounds.</p> + + +<p>The gem of Haddon is the long gallery or ball-room, which extends over +one hundred feet along one side of the inner court: the semicircular +wooden steps leading to this apartment are said to have been cut from a +single tree that grew in the park. The gallery is wainscoted in oak in +semicircular arched panels, alternately large and small, surmounted by a +frieze and a turreted and battlemented cornice. The ceiling is +elaborately carved in geometric patterns, and the tracery contains the +alternating arms and crests of Vernon and Manners: the remains are still +visible of the rich gilding and painting of this ceiling. In the +anteroom paintings are hung, and from it a strongly-barred door opens +upon a flight of stone steps leading down to the terrace and garden: +this is "Dorothy Vernon's Door;" and across the garden another flight of +steps leading to the terrace is known as "Dorothy Vernon's Steps." It +was the gentle maiden's flight through this door and up these steps to +elope with John Manners that carried the old house and all its broad +lands into the possession of the family now owning it. The state bedroom +is hung with Gobelin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> tapestry, illustrating Æsop's fables: the state +bed is fourteen feet high, and furnished in green silk velvet and white +satin, embroidered by needlework, and its last occupant was George IV. +The kitchen and range of domestic offices are extensive, and show the +marvellous amount of cooking that was carried on in the hospitable days +of Haddon; the kitchen has a ceiling supported by massive beams and a +solid oak column in the centre; there are two huge fireplaces, scores of +stoves, spits, pothooks, and hangers, large chopping-blocks, dressers, +and tables, with attendant bakehouses, ovens, pantries, and larders; +among the relics is an enormous salting-trough hollowed out of one +immense block of wood. Beyond the garden or lawn, one hundred and twenty +feet square, extends the terrace, planted with ancient yews, whose +gnarled roots intertwine with and displace the stones. This terrace +extends the full width of the outer or upper garden, and gives a +charming view of the southern front of the hall.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p079.jpg" width="650" height="221" alt="THE TERRACE, HADDON HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TERRACE, HADDON HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>More romance hangs about Haddon than probably any other old baronial +hall in England, and it has therefore been for years an endless source +of inspiration for poets, artists, and novelists. Mrs. Radcliffe here +laid some of the scenes of the <i>Mysteries of Udolpho</i>. Bennett's "King +of the Peak" was Sir George Vernon, the hospitable owner of Haddon. +Scott has written of it, a host of artists have painted its most +attractive features, and many a poet has sung of the</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Hall of wassail which has rung</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To the unquestioned baron's jest:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dim old chapel, where were hung</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Offerings of the o'erfraught breast;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moss-clad terrace, strangely still,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Broken shaft and crumbling frieze——</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Still as lips that used to fill</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">With bugle-blasts the morning breeze."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>But, unlike most baronial strongholds, the history of Haddon tells only +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> romance of peace, love, and hospitality. It came by marriage into +the possession of the Vernons soon after the Conquest; one of them, Sir +Henry Vernon of Haddon, was appointed governor of Prince Arthur by Henry +VII. His grandson, Sir George Vernon, lived in such princely +magnificence at Haddon that he was known as the "King of the Peak;" his +initials, "G. V.," are carved in the banquet-hall. Around his youngest +daughter, Dorothy, gathers the chief halo of romance. The story in brief +is, that her elder sister, being the affianced bride of the son of the +Earl of Derby, was petted and made much of, while Dorothy, at sweet +sixteen, was kept in the background. She formed an attachment for John +Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland, but this her family violently +opposed, keeping her almost a prisoner: her lover, disguised as a +forester, lurked for weeks in the woods around Haddon, obtaining +occasionally a stolen interview. At length on a festal night, when the +ball-room was filled with guests summoned to celebrate the approaching +nuptials of the elder sister, and every one was so wrapped up in +enjoyment that there was no time to watch Dorothy, the maiden, +unobserved, stole out of the ball-room into the anteroom, and through +the door, across the garden, and up the steps to the terrace, where her +lover had made a signal that he was waiting. In a moment she was in his +arms, and rode away with him in the moonlight all night, across the +hills of Derbyshire, and into Leicestershire, where they were married +next morning. It was the old story—an elopement, a grand row, and then +all was forgiven. Sir George Vernon had no sons, and his daughters +divided his estate, Haddon going to Dorothy, who thus by her elopement +carried the famous hall over to the family of Manners. Dorothy died in +1584, leaving four children, the oldest, Sir George Manners, living at +Haddon and maintaining its hospitable reputation. Dying in 1679, his son +John Manners, who was the ninth Earl of Rutland, became the master of +Haddon, and "kept up the good old mansion at a bountiful rate," as the +chronicler tells us. He kept one hundred and forty servants, and had so +many retainers and guests that every day the tables in the old +banquet-hall were spread as at a Christmas feast. The earl was raised to +the rank of duke, and his son John, Duke of Rutland, known as the "Old +Man of the Hill," died in 1779, since which time the family have not +used the hall as a place of residence, having gone to Belvoir in +Leicestershire. Its present owner is the sixth Duke of Rutland, Charles +Cecil Manners, and the descendant of the famous Dorothy. There are few +places, even in England, that have the fame of Haddon, and it is one of +the chief spots sought out by the tourist. The duke maintains it just as +it existed centuries ago, with the old furniture and utensils, so as to +reproduce as faithfully as possible the English baronial hall of his +ancestors.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>CHATSWORTH.</h3> + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p081-2" id="p081-2"></a> +<img src="images/p081-2.jpg" width="650" height="455" alt="CHATSWORTH HOUSE, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHATSWORTH HOUSE, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.</span> +</div> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="Fig 081-1/081-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p081-1.jpg" width="450" height="341" + alt="THE PEACOCK, FROM THE ROAD." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p082-1.jpg" width="234" height="400" + alt="MARBLE DOORWAY TO STATE DRAWING-ROOM." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE "PEACOCK," FROM THE ROAD.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">MARBLE DOORWAY TO STATE DRAWING-ROOM.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p082-2" id="p082-2"></a> +<img src="images/p082-2.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="STATE DRAWING-ROOM, CHATSWORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">STATE DRAWING-ROOM, CHATSWORTH.</span> +</div> + +<p>Below Haddon Hall the valley of the Wye broadens, with yet richer +scenery, as it approaches the confluence of the Wye and Derwent at +Rowsley, where the quaint old Peacock Inn, which was the manor-house of +Haddon, bears over the door the date 1653, and the crest of the ducal +House of Rutland, a peacock with tail displayed. Ascending for a short +distance the valley of the Derwent, which washes the bases of the steep +limestone hills, we come to Chatsworth. In sharp contrast with the +ancient glories of Haddon is this modern ducal palace, for whose +magnificence Bess of Hardwicke laid the foundation. This "Palace of the +Peak" stands in a park covering over two thousand acres; the Derwent +flows in front, over which the road to the palace<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> is carried by a fine +bridge. From the river a lawn gently slopes upward to the buildings, and +the wooded hill which rises sharply behind them is surmounted by a +hunting-tower, embosomed in trees. A herd of at least a thousand deer +roam at will over the park, and have become very tame. Chatsworth is a +brownish-yellow building, square and flat-topped, with a modern and more +ornamental wing. Its front extends fully six hundred feet, and in parts +it is of that depth. The estate was bought in the sixteenth century by +Sir William Cavendish, who built the original house, a quadrangular +building with turrets, which was greatly extended by his wife. It was +used as a fortress in the Civil Wars, and was considerably battered. The +first Duke of Devonshire about the year 1700 rebuilt the mansion, +employing the chief architects, artists, designers, and wood-carvers of +his time, among them Sir Christopher Wren. In the grounds, not far from +the bridge over the Derwent, is the "Bower of Mary Queen of Scots." +There is a small, clear lake almost concealed by foliage, in the centre +of which is a tower, and on the top a grass-grown garden, where are also +several fine trees. Here, under guard, the captive was permitted to take +the air. In those days she looked out upon a broad expanse of woods and +moorland: now all around has been converted into gardens and a park. +Entering the house through a magnificent gateway, the visitor is taken +into the entrance-hall, where the frescoes represent the life and death +of Julius Cæsar; then up the grand staircase of amethyst and variegated +alabaster guarded by richly-gilded balustrades. The +gorgeously-embellished chapel is wainscoted with cedar, and has a +sculptured altar made of Derbyshire marbles. The beautiful drawing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>-room +opens into a series of state-apartments lined with choice woods and hung +with Gobelin tapestries representing the cartoons of Raphael. +Magnificent carvings and rare paintings adorn the walls, while the +richest decorations are everywhere displayed. Over the door of the +antechamber is a quill pen so finely carved that it almost reproduces +the real feather. In the Scarlet Room are the bed on which George II. +died and the chairs and footstools used at the coronation of George III. +On the north side of the house is another stairway of oak, also richly +gilded. In the apartments replacing those where Mary Queen of Scots +lived are her bed-hangings and tapestries. There is an extensive library +with many rare books and manuscripts, and a sculpture-gallery, lined +with Devonshire marble, containing many statues and busts, and also two +recumbent lions, each nine feet long and four feet high and weighing +four tons, and carved out of a solid block of marble. The final +enlargement of Chatsworth was completed about forty years ago, when +Queen Victoria made a state visit and was given a magnificent reception +by the Duke of Devonshire.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p083.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="STATE BEDROOM, CHATSWORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">STATE BEDROOM, CHATSWORTH.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p084.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, CHATSWORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, CHATSWORTH.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 338px;"> +<img src="images/p085-1.jpg" width="338" height="450" alt="GATEWAY TO STABLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY TO STABLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The gardens at Chatsworth are as noted as the house, and are to many +minds the gem of the estate. They cover about one hundred and twenty-two +acres, and are so arranged as to make a beautiful view out of every +window of the palace. All things are provided that can add to rural +beauty—fountains, cascades, running streams, lakes, rockeries, +orange-groves, hothouses, woods, sylvan dells—and no labor or expense +is spared to enhance the attractions of trees, flowers, and shrubbery. +From a stone temple, which it completely covers, the great cascade flows +down among dolphins, sea-lions, and nymphs, until it disappears among +the rocks and seeks an underground outlet into the Derwent. Enormous +stones weighing several tons are nicely balanced, so as to rock at the +touch or swing open for gates. Others overhang the paths as if a gust of +wind might blow them down. In honor of the visit of the Czar Nicholas in +1844 the great "Emperor Fountain" was constructed, which throws a column +of water to an immense height. The grounds are filled with trees planted +by kings, queens, and great people on their visits to the palace. The +finest of all the trees is a noble Spanish chestnut of sixteen feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +girth. Weeping willows do not grow at Chatsworth, but they have provided +one in the form of a metal tree, contrived so as to discharge a deluge +of raindrops from its metallic leaves and boughs when a secret spring +is touched. The glory of the Chatsworth gardens, however, is the +conservatory, a beautiful structure of glass and iron covering nearly an +acre, the arched roof in the centre rising to a height of sixty-seven +feet. In this famous hot-house are the rarest palms and tropical plants. +It was designed by Joseph Paxton, the duke's head-gardener, and, +enlarging the design, Paxton constructed in the same way the London +Crystal Palace for the Exhibition of 1851, for which service he was +knighted. Besides this rare collection of hot-house plants, the famous +Victoria Regia is in a special house at Chatsworth, growing in a tank +thirty-four feet in diameter, the water being maintained at the proper +temperature and kept constantly in motion as a running stream. The seed +for this celebrated plant was brought from Guiana, and it first bloomed +here in 1849. Some fifty persons are employed in the gardens and +grounds, besides the servants in the buildings, showing the retinue +necessary to maintain this great show-palace, for that is its chief +present use, the Duke of Devonshire seldom using it as a residence, as +he prefers the less pretentious but more comfortable seat he possesses +at Bolton in Yorkshire. North of Chatsworth Park, near Baslow, on top of +a hill, is the strange mass of limestone which can be seen from afar, +and is known as the Eagle Rock.</p> + + + +<h3>MATLOCK AND DOVEDALE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 437px;"> +<a name="p085-2" id="p085-2"></a> +<img src="images/p085-2.jpg" width="437" height="600" alt="HIGH TOR, MATLOCK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HIGH TOR, MATLOCK.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p086-1" id="p086-1"></a><a name="p086-2" id="p086-2"></a></p> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p086-1/086-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p086-1.jpg" width="296" height="400" + alt="THE STRAITS, DOVEDALE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><br /><br /><img src="images/p086-2.jpg" width="500" height="259" + alt="BANKS OF THE DOVE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE STRAITS, DOVEDALE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BANKS OF THE DOVE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + + +<p>Retracing the Derwent to the Wye again, the valley of the latter is open +below for several miles, and then as Matlock is approached a mass of +limestone stretching across the valley seems to bar all egress, and the +river plunges through a narrow glen. The bold gray crags of the High Tor +rise steeply on the left hand, and the gorge not being wide enough for +both<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> river and railway, the latter pierces a tunnel through the High +Tor. The river bends sharply to the right, and the village makes a long +street along the bank and rises in terraces up the steep hill behind. +These are the "Heights of Abraham," while the pretty slope below the +High Tor is the "Lovers' Walk." Matlock is beautifully situated, and its +springs are in repute, while the caves in the neighborhood give plenty +of opportunity for that kind of exploration. The Derbyshire marbles are +quarried all about, and mosaic manufacture is carried on. It was near +Matlock that Arkwright first set up his cotton-spinning machine, and +when fortune and fame had made him Sir Richard Arkwright he built +Willersley Castle for his home, on the banks of the Derwent. The valley +of the little river Dove also presents some fine scenery, especially in +the fantastic shapes of its rocks. The river runs between steep hills +fringed with ash and oak and hawthorn, and Dovedale can be pursued for +miles with interest. One of its famous resorts is the old and +comfortable Izaak Walton<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Inn, sacred to anglers. In Dovedale are the +rocks called the Twelve Apostles, the Tissington Spires, the Pickering +Tor, the caverns known as the Dove Holes, and Reynard's Hall, while the +entire stream is full of memories of those celebrated fishermen of two +centuries ago, Walton and his friend Cotton.</p> + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p087.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="TISSINGTON SPIRES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TISSINGTON SPIRES.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>BEAUCHIEF ABBEY.</h3> + +<p>Before leaving Derbyshire the ruin of Beauchief Abbey, which gave the +name of Abbey Dale to one of the pleasant vales on the eastern border of +the county, must not be forgotten. It was built seven hundred years ago, +and there remains but a single fragment of this famous religious house, +the arch of the great east window. Singularly enough, under the same +roof with the abbey was built an inn, and at a short distance there is a +hermitage: the hermit's cave is scooped out of a rock elevated above the +valley and overhung with foliage. We are told that a pious baker lived +in the town of Derby who was noted for his exemplary life: the Virgin +Mary, as a proof of his faith, required him to relinquish all his +worldly goods and go to Deepdale and lead a solitary life in Christ's +service. He did as he was told, departed from Derby, but had no idea +where he was to go; directing his footsteps towards the east, he passed +through a village, and heard a woman instruct a girl to drive some +calves to Deepdale. Regarding this as an interposition of Providence, +the baker, encouraged, asked where was Deepdale; the woman told the girl +to show him. Arrived there, he found it marshy land, distant from any +human habitation; but, seeking a rising ground, he cut a small dwelling +in a rock under the side of a hill, built an altar, and there spent day +and night in the Divine service, with hunger and cold, thirst and want. +Now, it happened that a person<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> of great consequence owned this +land—Ralph, the son of Geremund—and coming to the woods to hunt, he +saw smoke rising from the hermit's cave, and was filled with +astonishment that any one should have dared to establish a dwelling +there without his permission. Going to the place, he found the hermit +clothed in old rags and skins, and, inquiring about his case, Ralph's +anger changed to pity. To show his compassion, he granted the hermit the +ground where the hermitage stood, and also for his support the tithe of +a mill not far away. The tradition further relates "that the old Enemy +of the human race" then endeavored to make the hermit dissatisfied with +his condition, but "he resolutely endured all its calamities," and +ultimately he built a cottage and oratory, and ended his days in the +service of God. After his death, Ralph's daughter prevailed upon her +husband to dedicate Deepdale to religious uses, and he inviting the +canons, they built the abbey. We are told in Howitt's <i>Forest Minstrel</i> +of the wonder caused by the construction of the abbey, and also how in +later years the monks became corrupted by prosperity. A place is shown +to visitors where the wall between the chapel and the inn gave way to +the thirsty zeal of the monks, and through an opening their favorite +liquor was handed. The <i>Forest Minstrel</i> tells us they</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Forsook missal and mass</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To chant o'er a bottle or shrive a lass;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">No matin's bell called them up in the morn,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But the yell of the hounds and sound of the horn;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">No penance the monk in his cell could stay</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But a broken leg or a rainy day:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pilgrim that came to the abbey-door,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With the feet of the fallow-deer found it nailed o'er;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pilgrim that into the kitchen was led.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On Sir Gilbert's venison there was fed.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And saw skins and antlers hang o'er his head."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<h3>STAFFORD AND TRENTHAM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p089" id="p089"></a> +<img src="images/p089.jpg" width="600" height="252" alt="TRENTHAM HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TRENTHAM HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The rivers which drain the limestone hills of Derbyshire unite to form +the Trent, and this stream, after a winding and picturesque course +through Midland England towards the eastward, flows into the Humber, and +ultimately into the North Sea. Its first course after leaving Derby is +through Staffordshire, one of the great manufacturing counties of +England, celebrated for its potteries, whose product Josiah Wedgewood so +greatly improved. The county-seat is Stafford, on the Sow River, not far +from the Trent Valley, and on a high hill south-west of the town are the +remains of the castle of the Barons, of Stafford, originally built a +thousand years ago by the Saxons to keep the Danes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> in check. This +castle was destroyed and rebuilt by William the Conqueror; again +destroyed and again rebuilt by Ralph de Stafford in Edward III.'s reign. +In the Civil Wars this castle was one of the last strongholds of King +Charles I., but it was ultimately taken by Cromwell's troops and +demolished, excepting the keep; a massive castellated building of modern +construction now occupies its place. The river Trent, in its winding +course, forms near Trentham a fine lake, and the beautiful neighborhood +has been availed of for the establishment of the splendid residence of +the Duke of Sutherland, about a mile west of the village, and known as +Trentham Hall. The park is extensive, the gardens are laid out around +the lake, and the noble Italian building, which is of recent +construction, has a fine campanile tower one hundred feet high, and +occupies a superb situation. The old church makes part of Trentham Hall, +and contains monuments of the duke's family and ancestors, the +Leveson-Gowers, whose extensive estates cover a wide domain in +Staffordshire. Trentham, which is in the pottery district and not far +from Newcastle-under-Lyme, was originally a monastery, founded by St. +Werburgh, niece of Æthelred. She was one of the most famous of the +Anglo-Saxon saints, and some venerable yews still mark the spot where +her original house stood, it being known as Tricengham. These yews, said +to have been planted about that time, form three sides of a square. The +religious house, rebuilt in William Rufus's reign, was given, at the +dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII., to his brother-in-law, +Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and it afterwards came into possession +of the Levesons. From the marriage of a daughter of Sir John Leveson +with Sir Thomas Gower sprang the family of the present ducal house of +Sutherland, the head of it being created Marquis of Stafford in 1786 and +Duke of Sutherland in 1833. The present duke is the third who has held +the title, his mother having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> been the daughter of the Earl of +Carlisle—the famous Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland. The old Trentham +Hall was built in 1633, being rebuilt and enlarged by Sir Charles Barry +about fifty years ago.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p090.jpg" width="650" height="530" alt="TRENTHAM HALL—ON THE TERRACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TRENTHAM HALL—ON THE TERRACE.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>TAMWORTH AND TUTBURY.</h3> + +<p>Staffordshire contains some famous places. In the eastern part of the +county, bordering Warwick, is the ancient town of Tamworth, standing +upon the little river Tame; this was originally a fortification built +for defence against the Danes, and its castle was founded by Marmion, of +whom Scott writes,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"They hailed Lord Marmion,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">They hailed him Lord of Fontenaye,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of Tamworth tower and town."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Tamworth is also Shakespearian ground, for here Richmond halted on his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +march to Bosworth Field, and made a stirring address to inspire his +forces for the coming combat. In later years Tamworth sent Sir Robert +Peel to Parliament, and his bronze statue adorns the market-square; the +ruins of the ancient castle are almost obliterated, and the present +castle is upon higher ground, its architecture being of various periods. +Tutbury Castle, of which little is left but a straggling mass of ruins, +stands on an eminence overlooking the Dove, and crowns a ridge of red +sandstone rock: it was a great stronghold, founded by John of Gaunt, +covering several acres, and was demolished after the Civil Wars. This +castle, like so many other famous places, was also one of the +prison-palaces of Mary Queen of Scots; although the castle is destroyed, +yet near by is its parish church of St. Mary, founded by Henry de +Ferrars in the reign of William Rufus, and known then as Ferrars Abbey: +its west end is one of the most perfect Norman fronts remaining in +England, and it has been carefully restored. Tutbury is known for some +of its ancient customs, among them the annual bull-running. A minstrel +band, after devotions and a long sermon in the abbey, had an excellent +dinner in the castle, and then repairing to the abbey-gate demanded the +bull; the prior let the bull out, with his horns and tail cut off, his +ears cropped, his body greased, and his nostrils filled with pepper to +make him furious. The bull being let loose, the steward proclaimed that +none were to come nearer than forty feet, nor to hinder the minstrels, +but all were to attend to their own safety. The minstrels were to +capture the bull before sunset, and on that side of the river, but if +they failed or he escaped across the stream, he remained the lord's +property. It was seldom possible to take him fairly, but if he was held +long enough to cut off some of his hair it was considered a capture, and +after a bull-baiting he was given to the minstrels. Thus originated the +Tutbury bull-running, which ultimately degenerated into a scene of wild +debauchery, often resulting in a terrible riot. The Duke of Devonshire, +when he came into possession of Tutbury, was compelled to abolish the +custom. About six miles from Stafford is Chartley Castle, dating from +the Conquest, and belonging to the Earls of Chester and Derby, and +subsequently to the famous Earl of Essex, who here entertained Queen +Elizabeth, and afterwards planned the plot for which she signed his +death-warrant. This castle has been many years in ruins: it had a +circular keep about fifty feet in diameter, and the present remains are +chiefly the fragments of two round towers and part of a wall twelve feet +thick, with loopholes constructed for shooting arrows at an attacking +force. Queen Mary was also imprisoned here, and a bed said to have been +wrought by her is shown in the village. This unfortunate queen seems to +have had more prisons and wrought more needlework than any other woman +in Britain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>ALTON TOWERS.</h3> + +<p>Alton Towers, the superb home of the Earl of Shrewsbury, is also in +Staffordshire, and is one of the famous seats of England. The estate +stands on the Churnet, and the house and grounds are on one side of its +deep valley. The present mansion, a modern Gothic structure, was built +about fifty years ago on a rocky plateau overlooking the valley. An +extensive park surrounds the mansion, and there are several entrances. +Of these Quicksall Lodge ushers the visitor to a magnificent approach +known as the "Earl's Drive," extending three miles along the valley of +the Churnet, and having its natural advantages increased by the profuse +distribution along the route of statues, busts, and ornamental vases. +Another entrance is from the railway-station, where is a lodge of great +beauty, from which the road, about a mile in length, gradually ascends +to the eminence where the mansion stands. The approach by both roads is +fine, and through the intervening foliage the Towers open upon the +view—rich in spire, dome, and gable, and with their fair proportions +enhanced by the arcades that adorn the house and the antique stone +setting that brings out the majesty of the Gothic architecture. The +gardens of this fine place are beautiful, their extent being made +apparently greater than in reality by the artificially-formed terraces +and other resources of the landscape artist. The grounds are most +lavishly ornamented with statuary, vases, temples, and fountains, while +gardening is carried to perfection. There is a grand conservatory, +containing a palm-house and orangery. From the top of an elaborate +Gothic temple four stories high there is a fine view, while the Flag +Tower, a massive building with four turrets, and six stories high, is +used as an observatory. There is a delightful retreat for the weary +sightseer called the Refuge, a fine imitation of Stonehenge, and Ina's +Rock, where Ina, king of Wessex, held a parliament after his battle with +the king of Mercia. The picturesque ruins of Alton Castle and convent +are in the grounds, also the ruins of Croxden Abbey and the charming +Alton Church, which was of Norman foundation. The castle existed at the +time of the Conquest, and the domain in 1408, through the marriage of +Maude Neville to John Talbot, was brought into the possession of the +present family. Talbot having been afterwards made the first Earl of +Shrewsbury. This was the famous English warrior who was so feared in +France, where he conducted brilliant campaigns, that "with his name the +mothers stilled their babes." He was killed at the siege of Chatillon in +his eightieth year. It was the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury who married Bess +of Hardwicke and made her fourth husband. It was the fifteenth Earl of +Shrewsbury who erected the present magnificent structure, with its +varied turrets and battlements, for his summer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> residence, where before +stood a plain house known as Alton Lodge. Upon his tomb, in memory of +the wonderful change he wrought in the place, is the significant motto: +"He made the desert smile." The nineteenth earl is now in possession.</p> + + +<h3>SHREWSBURY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p093.jpg" width="650" height="518" alt="SHREWSBURY CASTLE, FROM THE RAILWAY-STATION." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SHREWSBURY CASTLE, FROM THE RAILWAY-STATION.</span> +</div> + +<p>Westward of Stafford is the land of the "proud Salopians," Shropshire, +through which flows the Severn, on whose banks stands the ancient town +from which the Earls of Shrewsbury take their title. We are told that +the Britons founded this town, and that in Edward the Confessor's time +it had five churches and two hundred and thirty houses, fifty-one of +which were cleared away to make room for the castle erected by Roger de +Montgomery, a kinsman of William the Conqueror. The Norman king created +him Earl of Shrewsbury long before the present line of earls began with +John Talbot. Wars raged around the castle: it was besieged and battered, +for it stood an outpost in the borderland of Wales. It was here that +Henry IV. assembled an army to march against Glendower, and in the +following year fought the battle of Shrewsbury against Hotspur, then +marching to join Glendower. Hot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>spur's death decided the battle. The +Wars of the Roses were fought around the town, and here Henry VII., then +the Earl of Richmond, slept when going to Bosworth Field; and in the +Civil Wars King Charles had Shrewsbury's support, but Cromwell's forces +captured it. The town is on a fine peninsula almost encircled by the +Severn, and the castle stands at the entrance to the peninsula. Only the +square keep and part of the inner walls remain of the original castle, +but a fine turret has been added by modern hands. In the neighborhood of +Shrewsbury are the remains of the Roman city of Uriconium, said to have +been destroyed by the Saxons in the sixth century. Shrewsbury has always +been famous for pageants, its annual show being a grand display by the +trade societies. It is also famous for its cakes, of which Shenstone +says:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p094-1.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="HEAD-QUARTERS OF HENRY VII. ON HIS WAY TO BOSWORTH FIELD, +SHREWSBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HEAD-QUARTERS OF HENRY VII. ON HIS WAY TO BOSWORTH FIELD, +SHREWSBURY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p094-2" id="p094-2"></a> +<img src="images/p094-2.jpg" width="500" height="358" alt="ON BATTLEFIELD ROAD, SHREWSBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ON BATTLEFIELD ROAD, SHREWSBURY.</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"And here each season do those cakes abide,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose honored names the inventive city own,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The great Shrewsbury cake is the "simnel," made like a pie, the crust +colored with saffron and very thick. It is a confection said to be +unsafe when eaten to excess, for an old gentleman, writing from +melancholy experience in 1595, records that "sodden bread which bee +called simnels bee verie unwholesome." The Shropshire legend about its +origin is that a happy couple<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> got into a dispute whether they should +have for dinner a boiled pudding or a baked pie. While they disputed +they got hungry, and came to a compromise by first boiling and then +baking the dish that was prepared. To the grand result of the double +process—his name being Simon and her's Nell—the combined name of +simnel was given. And thus from their happily-settled contention has +come Shrewsbury's great cake, of which all England acknowledges the +merit.</p> + + +<h3>BRIDGENORTH AND WENLOCK ABBEY.</h3> + +<p><a name="p095" id="p095"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">BRIDGENORTH AND WENLOCK ABBEY.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p095sandbag.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:630px; height:400px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:120px;"> </div> + + +<p><br /><br /><br />Following down the Severn River from Shrewsbury, we come to Bridgenorth, +an ancient town planted on a steep hill, full of quaint houses, and +having an old covered market where the country-people gather on +Saturdays. The lower part is of brick, and the upper part is +black-and-white-timbered, but the human love for what is old and +familiar is shown by the way in which the people still fill up the old +market-house, though a fine new one has recently been built. The most +prized of the old houses of this venerable town is a foundry and +blacksmith shop standing by the river; it was in this house that Bishop +Percy, author of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> <i>Reliques</i>, was born. On the promontory of +sandstone, which steeply rises about one hundred and eighty feet above +the river, the upper part of the town is built, and here are the ruins +of Bridgenorth Castle, which stood in an exceptionally strong situation. +The red sandstone predominates here, but not much of it remains in the +castle, there being little left excepting a huge fragment of the massive +wall of the keep, which now inclines so much on one side from the +settlement of the foundation as to be almost unsafe. This castle was +built eight hundred years ago by the third and last of the Norman Earls +of Shrewsbury: it was held for King Charles in the Civil Wars, and +underwent a month's siege before it surrendered, when the conquerors +destroyed it. Bridgenorth is the most picturesque of all the towns on +the Severn, owing to the steep promontory up which the houses extend +from the lower to the upper town and the magnificent views from the +castle. The communication with the hill is by a series of +steeply-winding alleys, each being almost a continuous stairway: they +are known as the "Steps." A bridge with projecting bastions crosses the +river and connects the higher with the lower parts of the town, thus +giving the place its name.</p></div> + + +<p>About twelve miles south-east of Shrewsbury is the village of Much +Wenlock, where there are remains of a magnificent abbey founded by the +Black monks, and exhibiting several of the Early English and Gothic +styles of architecture, but, like most else in these parts, it has +fallen in ruin, and many of the materials have been carried off to build +other houses. Portions of the nave, transepts, chapter-house, and +abbot's house remain, the latter being restored and making a fine +spe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>cimen of ecclesiastical domestic architecture built around a court. +An open cloister extends the entire length of the house. There are +beautiful intersecting Norman arches in the chapter-house. There are +some quaint old houses in the town—timbered structures with bold +bow-windows—and not a few of them of great age. Roger de Montgomery is +credited with founding Wenlock Abbey at the time of the Norman Conquest. +The site was previously occupied by a nunnery, said to have been the +burial-place of St. Milburgh, who was the granddaughter of King Penda of +Mercia. This was a famous religious house in its day, and it makes a +picturesque ruin, while the beauty of the neighboring scenery shows how +careful the recluses and religious men of old were to cast their lots +and build their abbeys in pleasant places.</p> + +<p><a name="p0961" id="p0961"></a></p> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p096-1/096-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p096-1.jpg" width="303" height="450" + alt="HOUSE WHERE BISHOP PERCY WAS BORN, BRIDGENORTH." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p096-2.jpg" width="317" height="450" + alt="LODGE OF MUCH WENLOCK ABBEY." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">HOUSE WHERE BISHOP PERCY WAS BORN, BRIDGENORTH.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">LODGE OF MUCH WENLOCK ABBEY.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 392px;"> +<a name="p097" id="p097"></a> +<img src="images/p097.jpg" width="392" height="500" alt=" WENLOCK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WENLOCK.</span> +</div> + +<h3>LUDLOW CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p098" id="p098"></a> +<img src="images/p098.jpg" width="600" height="434" alt="LUDLOW CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LUDLOW CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The most important of all the castles in the middle marches of Wales was +Ludlow, whose grand ruins, mouldered into beauty, stand upon the river +Tame, near the western border of Shropshire. It was here that the lord +president of the Council of Wales held his court. Its ruins, though +abandoned, have not fallen into complete decay, so that it gives a fine +representation of the ancient feudal border stronghold: it is of great +size, with long stretches of walls and towers, interspersed with thick +masses of foliage and stately trees, while beneath is the dark rock on +which it is founded. It was built shortly after the Conquest by Roger de +Montgomery, and after being held by the Norman Earls of Shrewsbury it +was fortified by Henry I.: then Joyce de Dinan held it, and confined +Hugh de Mortimer as prisoner in one of the towers, still known as +Mortimer's Tower. Edward IV. established it as the place of residence +for the lord president of the Council that governed Wales: here the +youthful King Edward V. was proclaimed, soon to mysteriously disappear. +From Ludlow Castle, Wales was governed for more than three centuries, +and in Queen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> Elizabeth's time many important additions were made to it. +The young Philip Sidney lived here, his father being the lord president; +the stone bridge, replacing the drawbridge, and the great portal were +built at that time. In 1634, Milton's "Masque of Comus" was represented +here while Earl Bridgewater was lord president, one of the scenes being +the castle and town of Ludlow: this representation was part of the +festivities attending the earl's installation on Michaelmas Night. It +was in Ludlow Castle that Butler wrote part of <i>Hudibras</i>. The castle +was held for King Charles, but was delivered up to the Parliamentary +forces in 1646. The present exterior of the castle denotes its former +magnificence. The foundations are built into a dark gray rock, and the +castle rises from the point of a headland, the northern front consisting +of square towers with high, connecting embattled walls. In the last +century trees were planted on the rock and in the deep and wide ditch +that guarded the castle. The chief entrance is by a gateway under a low, +pointed arch which bears the arms of Queen Elizabeth and of Earl +Pembroke. There are several acres enclosed, and the keep is an immense +square tower of the Early Norman, one hundred and ten feet high and +ivy-mantled to the top. On its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> ground floor is the dungeon, half +underground, with square openings in the floor connecting with the +apartment above. The great hall is now without roof or floor, and a +tower at the west end is called Prince Arthur's Tower, while there are +also remains of the old chapel. The ruins have an imposing aspect, the +towers being richly clustered around the keep. This famous castle is now +the property of Earl Powis.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 297px;"> +<img src="images/p099.jpg" width="297" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE COUNCIL-CHAMBER, LUDLOW CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE COUNCIL-CHAMBER, LUDLOW CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The town of Ludlow adjoins the castle, and on approaching it the visitor +is struck by the fine appearance of the tower of the church of St. +Lawrence. The church is said to be the finest in Shropshire, and this +tower was built in the time of Edward IV. Its chantry is six hundred +years old, and belonged to the Palmers' guild. Their ordinances are +still preserved, one of which is to the effect that "if any man wishes, +as is the custom, to keep night-watches with the dead, this may be +allowed, provided that he does not call up ghosts." The town is filled +with timber-ribbed, pargetted houses, one of the most striking of these +being the old Feathers Inn. The exterior is rich in various devices, +including the feathers of the Prince of Wales, adopted as the sign +perhaps in the days of Prince Arthur, when the inn was built. Many of +the rooms are panelled with carved oak and have quaintly moulded +ceilings. It is not often that the modern tourist has a chance to rest +under such a venerable roof, for it is still a comfortable hostelrie. +The ancient priory of Austin Friars was at Ludlow, but is obliterated.</p> + +<p>In the neighborhood of Ludlow are many attractive spots. From the summit +of the Vignals, about four miles away, there is a superb view over the +hills of Wales to the south and west, and the land of Shropshire to the +northward. Looking towards Ludlow, immediately at the foot of the hill +is seen the wooded valley of Hay Park: it was here that the children of +the Earl of Bridgewater were lost, an event that gave Milton occasion to +write the "Masque of Comus,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> and locate its scenes at and in the +neighborhood of Ludlow. Richard's Castle is at the southern end of this +wood, but there is not much of the old ruin left in the deep dingle. At +Downton Castle the romantic walks in the gardens abound in an almost +endless variety of ferns. Staunton Lacey Church, containing Romanesque +work, and supposed to be older than the Conquest, is also near Ludlow. +But the grand old castle and its quaint and venerated Feathers Inn are +the great attractions before which all others pale. What an amazing tale +of revelry, pageant, and intrigue they could tell were only the old +walls endowed with voice!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 387px;"> +<img src="images/p100.jpg" width="387" height="550" alt="THE "FEATHERS" HOTEL, LUDLOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "FEATHERS" HOTEL, LUDLOW.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 508px;"> +<a name="p101" id="p101"></a> +<img src="images/p101.jpg" width="508" height="600" alt="LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT.</span> +</div> + + +<p>We are told that in Central Staffordshire churches with spires are rare. +The region of the Trent abounds in low and simple rather than lofty +church-towers, but to this rule the cathedral city of Lichfield is an +exception, having five steeples, of which three beautiful spires—often +called the "Ladies of the Vale"—adorn the cathedral itself. The town +stands in a fertile and gently undulating district without ambitious +scenery, and the cathedral, which is three hundred and seventy-five feet +long and its spires two hundred and fifty-eight feet high, is its great +and almost only glory. It is an ancient place, dating from the days of +the Romans and the Saxons, when the former slaughtered without mercy a +band of the early Christian martyrs near the present site of the town, +whence it derives its name, meaning the "Field of the Dead." This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +massacre took place in the fourth century, and in memory of it the city +bears as its arms "an escutcheon of landscape, with many martyrs in it +in several ways massacred." In the seventh century a church was built +there, and the hermit St. Chad became its bishop. His cell was near the +present site of Stowe, where there was a spring of clear water rising in +the heart of a forest, and out of the woods there daily came a +snow-white doe to supply him with milk. The legend tells that the +nightingales singing in the trees distracted the hermit's prayers, so he +besought that he might be relieved from this trial; and since that time +the nightingales in the woods of Stowe have remained mute. After death +the hermit-bishop was canonized and Lichfield flourished, at least one +of his successors being an archbishop. St. Chad's Well is still pointed +out at Stowe, but his Lichfield church long ago disappeared. A Norman +church succeeded it in the eleventh century, and has also been removed, +though some of its foundations remain under the present cathedral choir. +About the year 1200 the first parts of the present cathedral were built, +and it was over a hundred years in building. Its architecture is Early +English and Decorated, the distinguishing features being the three +spires, the beautiful western front, and the Lady Chapel. The latter +terminates in a polygonal apse of unique arrangement, and the red +sandstone of which the cathedral is built gives a warm and effective +coloring. Some of the ancient bishops of Lichfield were fighting men, +and at times their cathedral was made into a castle surrounded by walls +and a moat, and occasionally besieged. The Puritans grievously battered +it, and knocked down the central spire. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> cathedral was afterwards +rebuilt by Christopher Wren, and the work of restoration is at present +going on. As all the old stained glass was knocked out of the windows +during the Civil Wars, several of them have been refilled with fine +glass from the abbey at Liège. Most of the ancient monuments were also +destroyed during the sieges, but many fine tombs of more modern +construction replace them, among them being the famous tomb by Chantrey +of the "Sleeping Children." The ancient chroniclers tell bad stories of +the treatment this famous church received during the Civil Wars. When +the spire was knocked down, crushing the roof, a marksman in the church +shot Lord Brooke, the leader of the Parliamentary besiegers, through his +helmet, of which the visor was up, and he fell dead. The marksman was a +deaf and dumb man, and the event happened on St. Chad's Day, March 2d. +The loss of their leader redoubled the ardor of the besiegers; they set +a battery at work and forced a surrender in three days. Then we are told +that they demolished monuments, pulled down carvings, smashed the +windows, destroyed the records, set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> up guard-houses in the +cross-aisles, broke up the pavement, every day hunted a cat through the +church, so as to enjoy the echo from the vaulted roof, and baptized a +calf at the font. The Royalists, however, soon retook Lichfield, and +gave King Charles a reception after the battle of Naseby, but it finally +surrendered to Cromwell in 1646. Until the Restoration of Charles II. +the cathedral lay in ruins, even the lead having been removed from the +roof. In 1661, Bishop Hacket was consecrated, and for eight years he +steadily worked at rebuilding, having so far advanced in 1669 that the +cathedral was reconsecrated with great ceremony. His last work was to +order the bells, three of which were hung in time to toll at his +funeral; his tomb is in the south aisle of the choir.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;"> +<a name="p102" id="p102"></a> +<img src="images/p102-1.jpg" width="389" height="600" alt="INTERIOR LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, LOOKING WEST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, LOOKING WEST.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 323px;"> +<a name="p1022" id="p1022"></a> +<img src="images/p102-2.jpg" width="323" height="500" alt="LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, REAR VIEW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, REAR VIEW.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;"> +<a name="p103" id="p103"></a> +<img src="images/p103.jpg" width="359" height="500" alt="DR. JOHNSON'S BIRTHPLACE, LICHFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DR. JOHNSON'S BIRTHPLACE, LICHFIELD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Lichfield has five steeples grouped together in most views of the town +from the Vale of Trent, the other two steeples belonging to St. Mary's +and St. Michael's churches; the churchyard of the latter is probably the +largest in England, covering seven acres, through which an avenue of +stately elms leads up to the church. The town has not much else in the +way of buildings that is remarkable. In a plain house at a corner of the +market-place, where lived one Michael Johnson, a bookseller, Dr. Samuel +Johnson, his son, was born in 1709. and in the adjacent market-place is +Dr. Johnson's statue upon a pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs: one of +these represents the "infant Samuel" sitting on his father's shoulder to +imbibe Tory principles from Dr. Sacheverel's sermons: another, the boy +carried by his schoolfellows: and a third displays him undergoing a +penance for youthful disobedience by standing up for an hour bareheaded +in the rain. The "Three Crowns Inn" is also in the market-place, where +in 1776 Boswell and Johnson stayed, and, as Boswell writes, "had a +comfortable supper and got into high spirits," when Johnson "expatiated +in praise of Lichfield and its inhabitants, who, he said, were the most +sober, decent people in England, were the genteelest in proportion to +their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> wealth, and spoke the purest English." David Garrick went to +school to Dr. Johnson in the suburbs of Lichfield, at Edial; Addison +lived once at Lichfield; and Selwyn was its bishop a few years ago, and +is buried in the Cathedral close; but the chief memories of the ancient +town cluster around St. Chad, Johnson, and Garrick.</p> + + +<h3>LADY GODIVA OF COVENTRY.</h3> + +<p>The "three spires" which have so much to do with the fame of Lichfield +are reproduced in the less pretentious but equally famous town of +Coventry, not far away in Warwickshire, but they do not all belong to +the same church. The Coventry Cathedral was long ago swept away, but the +town still has three churches of much interest, and is rich in the old +brick-and-timbered architecture of two and three centuries ago. But the +boast of Coventry is Lady Godiva, wife of the Earl of Mercia, who died +in 1057. The townsfolk suffered under heavy taxes and services, and she +besought her lord to relieve them. After steady refusals he finally +consented, but under a condition which he was sure Lady Godiva would not +accept, which was none other than that she should ride naked from one +end of the town to the other. To his astonishment she consented, and, as +Dugdale informs us, "The noble lady upon an appointed day got on +horseback naked, with her hair loose, so that it covered all her body +but the legs, and then performing her journey, she returned with joy to +her husband, who thereupon granted the inhabitants a charter of +freedom." The inhabitants deserted the streets and barred all the +windows, so that no one could see her, but, as there are exceptions to +all rules, Tennyson writes that</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"One low churl, composed of thankless earth,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The fatal byword of all years to come,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boring a little auger-hole, in fear</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Peeped; but his eyes, before they had their will,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Were shrivelled into darkness in his head,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And drop: before him. So the Powers who wait</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On noble deeds cancelled a sense misused;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And she, that knew not, passed."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Thus has "Peeping Tom of Coventry" passed into a byword, and his statue +stands in a niche on the front of a house on the High Street, as if +leaning out of a window—an ancient and battered effigy for all the +world to see. Like all other things that come down to us by tradition, +this legend is doubted, but in Coventry there are sincere believers, and +"Lady Godiva's Procession" used to be an annual display, closing with a +fair: this ceremony was opened by religious services, after which the +procession started, the troops and city authorities,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> with music and +banners, escorting Lady Godiva, a woman made up for the occasion in +gauzy tights and riding a cream-colored horse; representatives of the +trades and civic societies followed her. This pageant has fallen into +disuse.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;"> +<img src="images/p105.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="COVENTRY GATEWAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">COVENTRY GATEWAY.</span> +</div> + +<p>In this ancient city of Coventry there are some interesting memorials of +the past—the venerable gateway, the old St. Mary's Hall, with its +protruding gable fronting on the street, coming down to us from the +fourteenth century, and many other quaint brick and half-timbered and +strongly-constructed houses that link the dim past with the active +present. Its three spires surmount St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ +churches, and while all are fine, the first is the best, being regarded +as one of the most beautiful spires in England. The ancient stone pulpit +of Trinity Church, constructed in the form of a balcony of open +stone-work, is also much admired. St. Michael's Church, which dates from +the fourteenth century, is large enough to be a cathedral, and its +steeple is said to have been the first constructed. This beautiful and +remarkably slender spire rises three hundred and three feet, its lowest +stage being an octagonal lantern supported by flying buttresses. The +supporting tower has been elaborately decorated, but much of the +sculpture has fallen into decay, being made of the rich but friable red +sandstone of this part of the country; the interior of the church has +recently been restored. The Coventry workhouse is located in an old +monastery, where a part of the cloisters remain, with the dormitory +above; in it is an oriel window where Queen Elizabeth on visiting the +town is reputed to have stood and answered a reception address in rhyme +from the "Men of Coventrie" with some doggerel of equal merit, and +concluding with the words, "Good Lord, what fools ye be!" The good Queen +Bess, we are told, liked to visit Coventry to see bull-baiting. As we +have said, Coventry formerly had a cathedral and a castle, but both have +been swept away; it was an important stronghold after the Norman +Conquest, when the Earls of Chester were lords of the place. In the +fourteenth century it was fortified with walls of great height and +thickness, three miles in circuit and strengthened by thirty-two towers, +each of the twelve gates being defended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> by a portcullis. A parliament +was held at Coventry by Henry VI., and Henry VII. was heartily welcomed +there after Bosworth Field; while the town was also a favorite residence +of Edward the Black Prince. Among the many places of captivity for Mary +Queen of Scots Coventry also figures; the walls were mostly knocked down +during the Civil Wars, and now only some fragments, with one of the old +gates, remain. In later years it has been chiefly celebrated in the +peaceful arts in the manufacture of silks and ribbons and the dyeing of +broad-cloth in "Coventry true blue;" at present it is the "Coventry +bicycle" that makes Lady Godiva's ancient city famous, and provides +amusement for youth who are able to balance their bodies possibly at the +expense of their minds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/p106.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="COVENTRY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">COVENTRY.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>BELVOIR CASTLE.</h3> + +<p>In describing the ancient baronial mansion, Haddon Hall, it was +mentioned that the Dukes of Rutland had abandoned it as their residence +about a hundred years ago and gone to Belvoir in Leicestershire. Belvoir +(pronounced Beever) Castle stands on the eastern border of +Leicestershire, in a magnificent situation on a high wooded hill, and +gets its name from the beautiful view its occupants enjoy over a wide +expanse of country. In ancient times it was a priory, and it has been a +castle since the Norman Conquest. Many of the large estates attached to +Belvoir have come down by uninterrupted succession from that time to the +present Duke of Rutland. The castle itself, however, after the Conquest +belonged to the Earl of Chester, and afterwards to the family of Lord +Ros. In the sixteenth century, by a fortunate marriage, the castle +passed into the Manners family. Thomas Manners was created by Henry +VIII. the first Earl of Rutland, and he restored the castle, which had +for some time been in ruins. His son enlarged it, making a noble +residence. The sixth Earl of Rutland had two sons, we are told, who were +murdered by witchcraft at Belvoir through the sorcery of three female +servants in revenge for their dismissal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> The three "witches" were tried +and committed to Lincoln jail. They were a mother and two daughters, and +the mother before going to the jail wished the bread and butter she ate +might choke her if guilty. Sure enough, the chronicler tells us, she +died on the way to jail, and the two daughters, afterwards confessing +their guilt, were executed March 11, 1618. The seventh Earl of Rutland +received Charles I. at Belvoir, and in the wars that followed the castle +was besieged and ruined. After the Restoration it was rebuilt, and in +finer style. The Dukes of Rutland began to adapt it more and more as a +family residence, and, after abandoning Haddon Hall, Belvoir was greatly +altered and made a princely mansion. It consists of a quadrangular +court, around which are castellated buildings, with towers surmounting +them, and occupying almost the entire summit of the hill. Here the duke +can look out over no less than twenty-two of his manors in the +neighboring valleys. The interior is sumptuously furnished, and has a +collection of valuable paintings. A large part of the ancient castle was +burnt in 1816. The Staunton Tower, however, still exists. It is the +stronghold of the castle, and was successfully defended by Lord Staunton +against William of Normandy. Upon every royal visit the key of this +tower is presented to the sovereign, the last occasion being a visit of +Queen Victoria. Belvoir, in the generous hands of the Dukes of Rutland, +still maintains the princely hospitality of the "King of the Peak." A +record kept of a recent period of thirteen weeks, from Christmas to +Easter, shows that two thousand persons dined at the duke's table, two +thousand four hundred and twenty-one in the steward's room, and eleven +thousand three hundred and twelve in the servants' hall. They were +blessed with good appetites too, for they devoured about $7000 worth of +provisions, including eight thousand three hundred and thirty-three +loaves of bread and twenty-two thousand nine hundred and sixty-three +pounds of meat, exclusive of game, besides drinking two thousand four +hundred bottles of wine and seventy hogsheads of ale. Thus does Belvoir +maintain the inheritance of hospitable obligation descended from Haddon +Hall.</p> + + +<h3>CHARNWOOD FOREST.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p108" id="p108"></a> +<img src="images/p108.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="RUINS OF BRADGATE HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF BRADGATE HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>We have now come into Leicestershire, and in that county, north of +Leicester City, is the outcropping of the earth's rocky backbone, which +has been thrust up into high wooded hills along the edge of the valley +of the Soar for several miles, and is known as Charnwood Forest. It +hardly deserves the name of a forest, however, for most of this strange +rocky region is bare of trees, and many of the patches of wood that are +there are of recent growth. Yet in ancient years there was plenty of +wood, and a tradition comes down to us that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> in Charnwood once upon a +time a squirrel could travel six miles on the trees without touching the +ground, and a traveller journey entirely across the forest without +seeing the sun. The district consists of two lines of irregular ridgy +hills, rising three hundred to four hundred feet above the neighboring +country. These ridges are separated by a sort of valley like a Norwegian +fjord, tilled with red marl. The rocks are generally volcanic products, +with much slate, which is extensively quarried. Granite and sienite are +also quarried, and at the chief granite-quarry—Mount Sorrel, an +eminence which projects into the valley of the Soar—was in former times +the castle of Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester. In King John's reign the +garrison of this castle so harassed the neighborhood that it was +described as the "nest of the devil and a den of thieves." In Henry +III.'s reign it was captured and demolished; the latter fate is +gradually befalling the hill on which it stood, under the operations of +the quarrymen. Near these quarries is the ancient village of Groby, +which was quite a flourishing place eight hundred years ago, and has not +grown much since. This village belonged to the Ferrars family, and an +heiress of that family was the unfortunate Queen Elizabeth Widvile. +About two miles away is Bradgate, a spot of rare beauty and interest, +the history of which is closely connected with Groby. On the end of one +of the ridges of Charnwood, just where it is sinking down to the level +of the surrounding country, stands Bradgate House. The surrounding park +is quite wild and bare, but there are fine old oaks in the lower +portions. From the ancient house a beautiful dell, called the Happy +Valley, leads to the neighboring village of Newtown Linford. Bradgate +House was destroyed in the early part of the last century by its +mistress. The Earl of Suffolk, who then owned it, brought his wife, who +had no taste for a rural life, from the metropolis to live there. Her +sister in London wrote to inquire how she was getting on. She answered, +"The house is tolerable, the country a forest, and the inhabitants all +brutes." In reply the sister advised, "Set the house on fire,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> and run +away by the light of it." The countess took the advice, and Bradgate +never was rebuilt.</p> + + +<h3>ULVERSCROFT AND GRACE DIEU ABBEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p109.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="RUINS OF ULVERSCROFT PRIORY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF ULVERSCROFT PRIORY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Charnwood Forest, like almost every other place in England, contains the +remains of religious houses. There was a priory at Ulverscroft, not far +from Bradgate, and some picturesque moss-grown remains still exist, said +to be the finest ruin in Leicestershire. Grace Dieu Abbey was also in +the forest, and on the dissolution of the monasteries was granted to the +Beaumonts; the ruins of this abbey were much frequented by Wordsworth, +who dedicated his poems to their owner. The Cistercians have in the +present century established the monastery of Mont St. Bernard in the +forest, and brought large tracts under cultivation as garden-land. +Bardon, the highest hill of Charnwood, which is near by, rises nine +hundred feet, an obtuse-angled triangular summit that can be seen for +miles away: not far from the forest are several famous places. The +abandoned castle of Ashby de la Zouche has been made the site of an +interesting town, deriving much prosperity from its neighboring +coal-mines: this castle was built by Lord Hastings, and here dwelt +Ivanhoe. The ruins of the tower, chapel, and great hall are objects of +much interest, and in the chapel is the "finger pillory" for the +punishment of those who were disorderly in church. Staunton Harold, the +seat of Earl Ferrars, is north of the town, while about nine miles to +the north-east of Ashby is Donington Hall,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> the palace of the Marquis of +Hastings: this estate is connected with Langley Priory, three miles +southward; the latter domain belonged to the Cheslyns fifty years ago, +and had an income of $40,000 a year. Between lavish hospitality and +ruinous lawsuits the entire property was eaten up, and Richard Cheslyn +became practically a pauper; but he bore ill-fortune with good grace, +and maintained his genial character to the last, being always well +received at all the noble houses where he formerly visited. Sir Bernard +Burke writes that Cheslyn "at dinner-parties, at which every portion of +his dress was the cast-off clothes of his grander friends, always looked +and was the gentleman; he made no secret of his poverty or of the +generous hands that had 'rigged him out.' 'This coat,' he has been heard +to say, 'was Radcliffe's; these pants, Granby's; this waistcoat, +Scarborough's.' His cheerfulness never forsook him; he was the victim of +others' mismanagement and profusion, not of his own." John Shakespear, +the famous linguist, whose talents were discovered by Lord Moira, who +had him educated, was a cowherd on the Langley estate. The poor cowherd +afterwards bought the estates for $700,000, and they were his home +through life.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p110.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="RUINS OF GRACE DIEU ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF GRACE DIEU ABBEY.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>ELIZABETH WIDVILE AND LADY JANE GREY.</h3> + +<p>Charnwood Forest is also associated in history with two unfortunate +women. Elizabeth Widvile was the wife of Sir John Grey of Groby, who +lost his life and estate in serving the House of Lancaster, leaving +Elizabeth with two sons; for their sake she sought an interview with +King Edward IV. to ask him to show them favor. Smitten by her charms, +Edward made her his queen, but he was soon driven into exile in France, +and afterwards died, while her father and brother perished in a popular +tumult. Her daughter married King Henry VII., a jealous son-in-law, who +confined Elizabeth in the monastery of Ber<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>mondsey, where she died. +Bradgate passed into the hands of her elder son by Sir John Grey of +Groby, and his grandson was the father of the second queen to which it +gave birth, whose name is better known than that of Elizabeth +Widvile—the unfortunate "ten-days' queen," Lady Jane Grey. She lived +the greater part of her short life at Bradgate, in the house whose ruins +still stand to preserve her memory. We are told by the quaint historian +Fuller that "she had the innocency of childhood, the beauty of youth, +the solidity of middle, the gravity of old age, and all at eighteen—the +birth of a princess, the learning of a clerk, the life of a saint, and +the death of a malefactor for her parents' offences." These parents +worried her into accepting the crown—they played for high stakes and +lost—and her father and father-in-law, her husband and herself, all +perished on the scaffold. We are told that this unfortunate lady still +haunts Bradgate House, and on the last night of the dying year a phantom +carriage, drawn by four gray horses, glides around the ruins with her +headless body. The old oaks have a gnarled and stunted appearance, +tradition ascribing it to the woodsmen having lopped off all the leading +shoots when their mistress perished. The remains of the house at present +are principally the broken shells of two towers, with portions of the +enclosing walls, partly covered with ivy.</p> + + +<h3>LEICESTER ABBEY AND CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p111" id="p111"></a> +<img src="images/p111.jpg" width="600" height="517" alt="LEICESTER ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEICESTER ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p112" id="p112"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 333px;"> +<img src="images/p112.jpg" width="333" height="450" alt="GATEWAY, NEWGATE STREET, LEICESTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY, NEWGATE STREET, LEICESTER.</span> +</div> +<p>The city of Leicester, which is now chiefly noted for the manufacture of +hosiery, was founded by the Britons, and was subsequently the Roman city +of Ratæ. Many Roman remains still exist here, notably the ancient Jewry +wall, which is seventy-five feet long and five feet high, and which +formed part of the town-wall. Many old houses are found in Leicester, +and just north of the city are the ruins of Leicester Abbey, This noted +religious house was founded in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> twelfth century, and stood on a +meadow watered by the river Soar. It was richly endowed, and was +dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but its chief fame comes from its being +the last residence of Cardinal Wolsey. This great man, once the primate +of England, has had his downfall pathetically described by Shakespeare. +The king summoned him to London to stand trial for treason, and on his +way Wolsey became so ill that he was obliged to rest at Leicester, where +he was met at the abbey-gate by the abbot and entire convent. Aware of +his approaching dissolution, the fallen cardinal said, "Father abbot, I +have come hither to lay my bones among you." The next day he died, and +to the surrounding monks, as the last sacrament was administered, he +said, "If I had served God as diligently as I have done the king, He +would not have given me over in my gray hairs." The remains were +interred by torchlight before daybreak on St. Andrew's Day, 1530, and to +show the vanity of all things earthly tradition says that after the +destruction of the abbey the stone coffin in which they were buried was +used as a horse-trough for a neighboring inn. Nothing remains of the +abbey as Wolsey saw it excepting the gate in the east wall through which +he entered. The present ruins are fragments of a house built afterwards. +The foundations that can still be traced show that it was a grand old +building. The gardens and park now raise vegetables for the Leicester +market.</p> + + +<p>Leicester Castle still exists only in a portion of the great hall, but +it has been enlarged and modernized, and is now used for the county +offices. The castle was built after the Norman Conquest to keep the +townspeople in check. It was afterwards a stronghold of Simon de +Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and it then became part of the Duchy of +Lancaster. The Dukes of Lancaster restored it, and lived there +frequently in great pomp, and they also built the adjoining Hospital of +the Newarke and a singular earthwork alongside, called the Mount. +Several parliaments were held here, but after the time of Edward IV. the +castle fell into decay. There are now few remains of the original +castle, excepting part of the great hall and the Mount or earthwork of +the keep, which is about thirty feet high and one hundred feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> in +diameter upon its flat, circular top. Not far from Leicester was fought +the last great battle of the "Wars of the Roses," Bosworth Field, upon +Redmoor Plain, about two miles from the village now known as Market +Bosworth. It was a moor at the time of the battle in 1485, overgrown +with thistles and scutch-grass. Shakespeare has been the most popular +historian of this battle, and the well where Richard slaked his thirst +is still pointed out, with other localities of the scenes of the famous +contest that decided the kingship of England, Richard III. giving place +to Richmond, who became Henry VII.</p> + +<h3>THE EDGEHILL BATTLEFIELD.</h3> + +<p><a name="p113" id="p113"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">EDGEHILL.</span></p> + +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p113sandbag.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:650px; height:400px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:160px;"> </div> + + +<p>While we are considering this locality two other famous battlefields not +far away, that together were decisive of the fate of England, must not +be overlooked. These were Edgehill and Naseby, the opening and closing +contests of the Civil War that overthrew Charles I., the scene of one +being visible from the other, though the intervening contest spread +almost all over the island. The high ground that borders Warwickshire +and Northamptonshire has various roads crossing it, and the opposing +forces meeting on these highlands made them the scenes of the +battles—practical repetitions of many hot contests there in earlier +years. The command of the Parliamentary army had been given to the Earl +of Essex, and he and all his officers were proclaimed traitors by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +king. Charles I. assembled an army at Nottingham in 1642 to chastise +them, and it was considered an evil omen that when the royal standard +was set up on the evening of the day of assemblage, a gale arose and it +was blown down. Charles moved west from Nottingham to Shrewsbury to meet +reinforcements from Wales, and then his army numbered eighteen thousand +men. Essex was at Northampton, and moved southward to Worcester. Charles +desired to march to London to break up the Parliament, but to do this +must either defeat or outflank Essex. He chose the latter plan, moved to +Kenilworth, but could not enter Coventry, because Lord Brooke, who was +afterwards killed at Lichfield, held it for the Parliament. Essex left +Worcester, and pressed the king by forced marches, but Charles turned +his flank and started for London with Essex in pursuit. In October he +reached Edgecot, near the field at Edgehill, and there in the open +country he was astonished to find a gentleman amusing himself with a +pack of hounds. He asked who it was who could hunt so merrily while his +sovereign was about to fight for his crown. Mr. Richard Shuckburgh was +accordingly introduced, and the king persuaded him to take home his +hounds and raise his tenantry. The next day he joined Charles with a +troop of horse, and was knighted on the field of Edgehill.</p></div> + +<p>Charles slept in the old house at Edgecot: the house has been superseded +by a newer one, in which is preserved the bed in which the king rested +on the night of October 22, 1642. At three o'clock next morning, Sunday, +he was aroused by a messenger from Prince Rupert, whose cavalry guarded +the rear, saying that Essex was at hand, and the king could fight at +once if he wished. He immediately ordered the march to Edgehill, a +magnificent situation for an army to occupy, for here the broken country +of the Border sinks suddenly down upon the level plain of Central +England. Essex's camp-fires on that plain the previous night had +betrayed his army to Prince Rupert, while Rupert's horsemen, appearing +upon the brow of the hill, told Essex next morning that the king was at +hand. Edgehill is a long ridge extending almost north and south, with +another ridge jutting out at right angles into the plain in front: thus +the Parliamentary troops were on low ground, bounded in front and on +their left by steep hills. On the southern side of Edgehill there had +been cut out of the red iron-stained rock of a projecting cliff a huge +red horse, as a memorial of the great Earl of Warwick, who before a +previous battle had killed his horse and vowed to share the perils of +the meanest of his soldiers. Both sides determined to give battle; the +Puritan ministers passed along the ranks exhorting the men to do their +duty, and they afterwards referred to the figure as the "Red Horse of +the wrath of the Lord which did ride about furiously to the ruin of the +enemy." Charles disposed his army along the brow of the hill, and could +overlook his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> foes, stretched out on the plain, as if on a map, with the +village of Kineton behind them. Essex had twelve thousand men on a +little piece of rising ground known afterwards as the "Two Battle +Farms," Battledon and Thistledon. The king was superior both in numbers +and position, with Prince Rupert and his cavalry on the right wing; Sir +Edmund Verney bore the king's standard in the centre, where his tent was +pitched, and Lord Lindsey commanded; under him was General Sir Jacob +Astley, whose prayer before the battle is famous: "O Lord, thou knowest +how busy I must be this day; if I forget thee, do not thou forget +me.—March on, boys!" The king rode along in front of his troops in the +stately figure that is familiar in Vandyke's paintings—full armor, with +the ribbon of the Garter across his breastplate and its star on his +black velvet mantle—and made a brief speech of exhortation. The young +princes Charles and James, his sons, both of them afterwards kings of +England, were present at Edgehill, while the philosopher Hervey, who +discovered the circulation of the blood, was also in attendance, and we +are told was found in the heat of the battle sitting snugly under a +hedge reading a copy of Virgil.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p115.jpg" width="500" height="231" alt="MILL AT EDGEHILL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MILL AT EDGEHILL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The battle did not begin till afternoon, and the mistake the king made +was in not waiting for the attack in his strong position on the brow of +the hill; but his men were impatient and in high spirits, and he +permitted them to push forward, meeting the attack halfway. Rupert's +cavalry upon encountering the Parliamentary left wing were aided by the +desertion of part of the latter's forces, which threw them into +confusion; the wing broke and fled before the troopers, who drove them +with great slaughter into the village of Kineton, and then fell to +plundering Essex's baggage-train. This caused a delay which enabled the +Parliamentary reserves to come up, and they drove Rupert back in +confusion; and when he reached the royal lines he found them in +disorder, with Sir Edmund Verney killed and the royal standard captured. +Lord Lindsey wounded and captured, and the king in personal danger: but +darkness came, and enabled the king to hold his ground, and each side +claimed a victory. The royal standard was brought back by a courageous +Cavalier, who put on a Parliamentary orange-colored scarf, rode into the +enemy's lines, and persuaded the man who had it to let him carry it. For +this bold act he was knighted by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> king on the spot and given a gold +medal. There were about fourteen hundred killed in the battle, and +buried between the two farm-houses of Battledon and Thistledon, at a +place now called the Graveyards. Lord Lindsey died on his way to Warwick +with his captors. Cromwell was not personally engaged at Edgehill, +although there as a captain of cavalry. Carlyle says that after watching +the fight he told Hampden they never would get on with a "set of poor +tapsters and town-apprentice people fighting against men of honor; to +cope with men of honor they must have men of religion." Hampden +answered, "It was a good notion if it could be executed;" and Cromwell +"set about executing a bit of it, his share of it, by and by."</p> + + +<h3>THE BATTLE OF NASEBY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 454px;"> +<a name="p117" id="p117"></a> +<img src="images/p117.jpg" width="454" height="600" alt="CHURCH AND MARKET-HALL, MARKET HARBOROUGH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHURCH AND MARKET-HALL, MARKET HARBOROUGH.</span> +</div> + +<p>The last great contest of the Civil War, at which the fate of King +Charles was really decided, was fought nearly three years afterwards, +June 14, 1645, and but a few miles north-east of Edgehill, at Naseby, +standing on a high plateau elevated nearly seven hundred feet. The +Parliamentary forces had during the interval become by far the stronger, +and were engaged in besieging Chester. The king and Prince Rupert in May +left Oxford with their forces, and marched northward, hoping to raise +this siege. The king had gone as far north as Leicester, when, hearing +that Lord Fairfax had come from the borders of Wales and besieged +Oxford, he turned about to relieve it. His army was about ten thousand +strong, and, having reached Daventry in June, halted, while Fairfax, +leaving Oxford, marched northward to meet the king, being five miles +east of him on June 12. Being weaker than Fairfax, the king determined +on retreat, and the movement was started towards Market Harborough, just +north of Naseby. The king, a local tradition says, while sleeping at +Daventry was warned, by the apparition of Lord Strafford in a dream, not +to measure his strength with the Parliamentary army. A second night the +apparition came, assuring him that "if he kept his resolution of +fighting he was undone;" and it is added that the king was often +afterwards heard to say he wished he had taken the warning and not +fought at Naseby. Fairfax, however, was resolved to force a battle, and +pursued the king's retreating army. On June 13th he sent Harrison and +Ireton with cavalry to attack its rear. That night the king's van and +main body were at Market Harborough, and his rear-guard of horse at +Naseby, three miles southward. Ireton about midnight surprised and +captured most of the rear-guard, but a few, escaping, reached the king, +and roused him at two in the morning. Fairfax was coming up, and reached +Naseby at five in the morning. The king held a council of war in the +"King's Head Inn" at Market Harborough, and determined to face about +and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> give battle. The forces met on Broad Moor, just north of Naseby +village. Prince Rupert had command of the royal troops, and Sir Jacob +Astley was in command of the infantry. The king rode along the lines, +inspiriting the men with a speech, to which they gave a response of +ringing cheers. Cromwell commanded the right wing of Fairfax's line, +while Ireton led the left, which was opposed by Rupert's cavalry. The +advance was made by Fairfax, and the sequel proved that the +Parliamentary forces had improved their tactics. Rupert's troopers, as +usual, broke down the wing opposing them, and then went to plundering +the baggage-wagons in the rear. But fortune inclined the other way +elsewhere. Cromwell on the right routed the royal left wing, and after +an hour's hot struggle the royal centre was completely broken up. +Fairfax captured the royal standard, and the king with his reserve of +horse made a gallant attempt to recover the day. But it was of no use. +Fairfax formed a second line of battle, and the king's wiser friends, +seizing his horse's bridle, turned him about, telling him his charge +would lead to certain destruction. Then a panic came, and the whole body +of Royalists fled, with Fairfax's cavalry in pursuit. Cromwell and his +"Ironsides" chased the fugitives almost to Leicester, and many were +slaughtered. The king never halted till he got to Ashby de la Zouche, +twenty-eight miles from the battlefield, and he then went on to +Lichfield. There were one thousand Royalists killed and four thousand +five hundred captured, with almost all the baggage, among it being the +king's correspondence, which by disclosing his plans did almost equal +harm with the defeat. The prisoners were sent to London. A monument has +since been erected on the battlefield, with an inscription describing +the contest as "a useful lesson to British kings never to exceed the +bounds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> of their just prerogative; and to British subjects, never to +swerve from the allegiance due to their legitimate monarch." This is +certainly an oracular utterance, and of its injunctions the reader can +take his choice.</p> + + +<h3>THE LAND OF SHAKESPEARE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/p118.jpg" width="500" height="430" alt="SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Close to the village of Naseby rises the Avon, some of its springs being +actually within the village, where their waters are caught in little +ponds for watering cattle. The slender stream of Shakespeare's river +flows downward from the plateau through green meadows, and thence to the +classic ground of Stratford and of Warwick. It was at Stratford-on-Avon +that Shakespeare was born and died;</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here his first infant lays sweet Shakespeare sung,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here the last accents faltered on his tongue."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p119" id="p119"></a> +<img src="images/p119.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="ANNE HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANNE HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The old house where he was born is on the main street of the town, and +has been taken possession of by a Trust which has restored it to its +original condition. Its walls are covered with the initials of visitors; +there is nothing to be seen in the house that has any proved connection +with Shakespeare excepting his portrait, painted when he was about +forty-five years old. The sign of the butcher who had the building +before the Trust bought it is also exhibited, and states that "The +immortal Shakespeare was born in this house." His birth took place in +this ancient but carefully preserved building on April 23, 1564, and +exactly fifty-two years later, on April 23, 1616, he died in another +house near by, known as the "New Place," on Chapel Street. Excepting the +garden and a portion of the ancient foundations nothing now remains of +the house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> where Shakespeare died; a green arbor in the yard, with the +initials of his name set in the front fence, being all that marks the +spot. Adjoining the remnants of this "New Place" is the "Nash House," +where the curator representing the Shakespeare Trust has his home. This +building is also indirectly connected with Shakespeare, having belonged +to and been occupied by Thomas Nash, who married Elizabeth Hall, the +poet's granddaughter, who subsequently became Lady Barnard. The church +of the Holy Trinity at Stratford contains Shakespeare's grave; five flat +stones lying in a row across the narrow chancel cover his family, the +grave of Anne Hathaway, his wife, being next to that of the poet; his +monument is on the wall, and near it is the American memorial window, +representing the Seven Ages of Man. In the chancel upon the western +side, within a Grecian niche, is the well-known half-figure monument of +Shakespeare that has been so widely copied, representing him in the act +of composition. The most imposing building in Stratford is the +"Shakespeare Memorial," a large and highly ornamental structure, +thoroughly emblematic, and containing a theatre. Stratford is full of +relics of Shakespeare and statues and portraits in his memory. There is +a life-size statue of the poet outside the Town-Hall which was presented +to the city by Garrick in the last century, while within the building is +his full-length portrait, also a present from Garrick, together with +Gainsborough's portrait of Garrick himself. At the modest hamlet of +Shottery, about a mile out of town, is the little cottage where Anne +Hathaway lived, and where the poet is said to have "won her to his +love;" a curious bedstead and other relics are shown at the cottage. +Charlecote House, the scene of Shakespeare's youthful deer-stealing +adventure that compelled him to go to London, is about four miles east +of Stratford, near the Avon: it is an ancient mansion of the Elizabethan +period. In the neighborhood are also a mineral spring known as the Royal +Victoria Spa and some ancient British intrenchments called the Dingles.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>WARWICK</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 549px;"> +<img src="images/p120.jpg" width="549" height="550" alt="WARWICK CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WARWICK CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The renowned castle of Warwick is upon the Avon, a short distance above +Stratford. Warwick was founded by the Britons at a very early period, +and is believed to be as old in some parts as the Christian era; it was +afterwards held as a Christian stronghold against the Danes. Lady +Ethelfleda, daughter of King Alfred, built the donjon-keep upon an +artificial mound of earth that can still be traced in the castle +grounds. The most ancient part of the present castle was erected in the +reign of Edward the Confessor, and in William the Conqueror's time it +received considerable additions, and he created the first Earl of +Warwick. It was a great stronghold in the subsequent wars, and an +heiress brought the castle to Richard Neville, who assumed the title in +right of his wife, and was the famous Warwick, "the King-maker." After +many changes it came to the Grevilles, who are now the Earls of Warwick. +This castle is one of the best specimens of the feudal stronghold +remaining in England, and occupies a lovely position on the river-bank, +being built on a rock about forty feet high; its modern apartments +contain a rich museum filled with almost priceless relics of the olden +time. Here are also valuable paintings and other works of art, among +them Vandyck's portrait of Charles I. and many masterpieces of +Rembrandt, Paul Veronese, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Holbein, and +Salvator Rosa. In December, 1871, the great hall and suite of private +apartments at Warwick were burnt, but the valuable contents were almost +all saved with little injury. The castle was restored by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> a public +subscription. It is built around a large oval-shaped court; the +gatehouse tower is flanked by embattled walls covered with ivy, and +having at either extremity Cæsar's Tower and Guy's Tower; the inner +court is bounded by ramparts and turrets, and has on one side an +artificial mound surmounted by an ancient tower. From the modernized +rooms of the castle, where the family live and the museum is located, +and which extend in a suite for three hundred and fifty feet, all the +windows look out upon beautiful views; many of these rooms are hung with +tapestry. Cæsar's Tower, believed to be the most ancient part of the +castle and as old as the Norman Conquest, is one hundred and +seventy-four feet high; Guy's Tower, which was built in 1394, has solid +walls ten feet thick and is one hundred and twenty-eight feet high, +disclosing fine views from the turrets. The grounds are extensive, and +the magnificent marble "Warwick Vase," brought from the Emperor Adrian's +villa at Tivoli in Italy, is kept in a special greenhouse, being one of +the most completely perfect and beautiful specimens of ancient sculpture +known. St. Mary's Church at Warwick is a fine building, which in the +early part of the last century replaced the original collegiate church +of St. Mary, an edifice that had unfortunately been burnt. Thomas +Beauchamp, one of the earlier Earls of Warwick, was the founder of this +church, and his monument with recumbent effigy is in the middle of the +choir. The Beauchamp Chapel, over four hundred years old, is a beautiful +relic of the original church still remaining, and stands on the southern +side of the new building. The whole of this portion of Warwickshire is +underlaid by medicinal waters, and the baths of Leamington are in the +valley of the little river Leam, a short distance north-east of the +castle, its Jephson Gardens, a lovely park, commemorating one of the +most benevolent patrons.</p> +<p><a name="p1222" id="p1222"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p122-2.jpg" width="450" height="447" alt="OBLIQUE GABLES IN WARWICK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OBLIQUE GABLES IN WARWICK.</span> +</div> +<p>Warwick Castle, like all the others, has its romance, and this centres +in the famous giant, Guy of Warwick, who lived nearly a thousand years +ago, and was nine feet high. His staff and club and sword and armor are +exhibited in a room adjoining Cæsar's Tower; and here also is Guy's +famous porridge-pot, a huge bronze caldron holding over a hundred +gallons, which is used as a punch-bowl whenever there are rejoicings in +the castle. There is nothing fabulous about the arms or the +porridge-pot, but there is a good deal that is doubtful about the giant +Guy himself and the huge dun cow that once upon a time he slew, one of +whose ribs, measuring over six feet long, is shown at Guy's Cliff. This +cliff is where the redoubtable Guy retired as a hermit after championing +the cause of England in single combat against a giant champion of the +Danes, and is about a mile from Warwick. It is a picturesque spot, and a +chantry has been founded there, while for many years a rude statue of +the giant Guy stood on the cliff, where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> chisel had cut it out of +the solid rock. The town of Warwick is full of old gabled houses and of +curious relics of the time of the "King-maker" and of the famous Earl of +Leicester, who in Elizabeth's time founded there the Leicester Hospital, +where especial preference is given to pensioners who have been wounded +in the wars. It is a fine old house, with its chapel, which has been +restored nearly in the old form, stretching over the pathway, and a +flight of steps leading up to the promenade around it. The hospital +buildings are constructed around an open quadrangle, and upon the quaint +black and white building are some fine antique carvings. The old +"Malt-Shovel Inn" is a rather decayed structure in Warwick, with its +ancient porch protruding over the street, while some of the buildings, +deranged in the lower stories by the acute angles at which the streets +cross, have oblique gables above stairs that enabled the builders to +construct the upper rooms square. This is a style of construction +peculiar to Warwick, and adds to the oddity of this somnolent old town, +that seems to have been practically asleep for centuries.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 543px;"> +<a name="p1221" id="p1221"></a> +<img src="images/p122-1.jpg" width="543" height="650" alt="LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL, WARWICK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL, WARWICK.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>KENILWORTH.</h3> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p123.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="KENILWORTH CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KENILWORTH CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>About five miles from Warwick are the ruins of Kenilworth Castle, the +magnificent home of the Earl of Leicester, which Scott has immortalized. +Geoffrey de Clinton in the reign of Henry I. built a strong castle and +founded a monastery here. It was afterwards the castle of Simon de +Montfort, and his son was besieged in it for several months, ultimately +surrendering, when the king bestowed it on his youngest son, Edward, +Earl of Lancaster and Leicester. Edward II., when taken prisoner in +Wales, was brought to Kenilworth, and signed his abdication in the +castle, being afterwards murdered in Berkeley Castle. Then it came to +John of Gaunt, and in the Wars of the Roses was alternately held by the +partisans of each side. Finally, Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her +ambitious favorite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who made splendid +additions to the buildings. It was here that Leicester gave the +magnificent entertainment to Queen Elizabeth which was a series of +pageants lasting seventeen days, and cost $5000 a day—a very large sum +for those times. The queen was attended by thirty-one barons and a host +of retainers, and four hundred servants, who were all lodged in the +fortress. The attendants were clothed in velvet, and the party drank +sixteen hogsheads of wine and forty hogsheads of beer every day, while +to feed them ten oxen were killed every morning. There was a succession +of plays and amusements provided, including the Coventry play of "Hock +Tuesday" and the "Country Bridal," with bull-and bear-baiting, of which +the queen was very fond. Scott has given a gorgeous description of these +fêtes and of the great castle, and upon these and the tragic fate of Amy +Robsart has founded his romance of <i>Kenilworth</i>. The display and +hospitality of the Earl of Leicester were intended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> to pave the way to +marriage, but the wily queen was not to be thus entrapped. The castle is +now part of the Earl of Clarendon's estate, and he has taken great pains +to preserve the famous ruins. The great hall, ninety feet long, still +retains several of its Gothic windows, and some of the towers rise +seventy feet high. These ivy-mantled ruins stand upon an elevated rocky +site commanding a fine prospect, and their chief present use is as a +picnic-ground for tourists. Not far away are the ruins of the priory, +which was founded at the same time as the castle. A dismantled +gate-house with some rather extensive foundations are all that remain. +In a little church near by the matins and the curfew are still tolled, +one of the bells used having belonged to the priory. Few English ruins +have more romance attached to them than those of Kenilworth, for the +graphic pen of the best story-teller of Britain has interwoven them into +one of his best romances, and has thus given an idea of the splendors as +well as the dark deeds of the Elizabethan era that will exist as long as +the language endures.</p> + + + +<h3>BIRMINGHAM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p124" id="p124"></a> +<img src="images/p124.jpg" width="600" height="551" alt="ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, BIRMINGHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, BIRMINGHAM.</span> +</div> + +<p>Thus far we have mainly written of the rural and historical attractions +of Warwickshire, but its great city must not be passed by without +notice. The "Homestead of the Sons of Beorm" the Saxon, while rising +from small begin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>nings, has had a prodigiously rapid growth since the +coal, iron, and railways have so greatly swollen the wealth and +population of manufacturing England. It was at the time of the Conquest +the manor of Bermingeham, or, as the Midland English prefer to pronounce +it, "Brummagem." It was held for many years by a family of the same +name, and had an uneventful history till the townsfolk ranged themselves +on the side of Parliament in the Civil War, in revenge for which Prince +Rupert captured and pillaged Birmingham: it was then a market-town, +built mostly along one street, and noted for its smiths and cutlers, who +were kept busy in forging pikes and swords for the king's opponents. The +great growth of the city has been in the present century, when the +population has trebled, and now approaches four hundred thousand. The +main features of its history relate to trade and manufactures, otherwise +its annals are comparatively commonplace. There is little remaining of +the old town, almost all the structures being modern. St. Martin's +Church, replacing the original parish church, or "Mother Church," as it +is called, is a fine modern structure, and contains some interesting +monuments of the Bermingeham family. There are several other attractive +churches, including the Unitarian church of the Messiah, which is +supported on massive arches, for it is built over a canal on which are +several locks: this has given cause for a favorite Birmingham witticism:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"St. Peters world-wide diocese</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rests on the power of the keys;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Our church, a trifle heterodox,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We'll rest on a 'power of locks.'"</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p125" id="p125"></a> +<img src="images/p125.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="ASTON HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ASTON HALL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p126" id="p126"></a> +<img src="images/p126.jpg" width="650" height="456" alt="THE "GALLERY OF THE PRESENCE," ASTON HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "GALLERY OF THE PRESENCE," ASTON HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Birmingham has many fine public and private buildings and some +attractive streets, though much of the town is made up of narrow lanes +and dingy houses, with huge factories in every direction. There are +several small parks, the gifts of opulent residents, notably Aston Hall. +This was formerly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> the residence of the Holte family, and the fine old +mansion which still stands in the grounds was built by Sir Thomas Holte +in the reign of James I. Charles I. is said to have slept here for two +nights before the battle of Edgehill, for which offence the house was +cannonaded by the Puritans and its owners fined. The grounds, covering +about forty-two acres, are now a park, and a picturesque little church +has been built near the mansion. Some of the factories of this +metropolis of hardware are fine structures, but when their product is +spoken of, "Brummagem" is sometimes quoted as synonymous for showy sham. +Here they are said to make gods for the heathen and antiquities of the +Pharaoh age for Egypt, with all sorts of relics for all kinds of +battlefields. But Birmingham nevertheless has a reputation for more +solid wares. Its people are the true descendants of Tubal Cain, for one +of its historians attractively says that the Arab eats with a Birmingham +spoon; the Egyptian takes his bowl of sherbet from a Birmingham tray; +the American Indian shoots a Birmingham rifle; the Hindoo dines on +Birmingham plate and sees by the light of a Birmingham lamp; the South +American horsemen wear Birmingham spurs and gaudily deck their jackets +with Birmingham buttons; the West Indian cuts down the sugar-cane with +Birmingham hatchets and presses the juice into Birmingham vats and +coolers; the German lights his pipe on a Birmingham tinder-box; the +emigrant cooks his dinner in a Birmingham saucepan over a Birmingham +stove; and so on <i>ad infinitum</i>. A century ago this famous town was +known as the "toy-shop of Europe." Its glass-workers stand at the head +of their profession, and here are made the great lighthouse lenses and +the finest stained glass to be found in English windows. The Messrs. +Elkington, whose reputation is worldwide, here invented the process of +electro-plating. It is a great place for jewelry and the champion +emporium for buttons. It is also the great English workshop for swords, +guns, and other small-arms, and here are turned out by the million +Gillott's steel pens. Over all these industries presides the magnificent +Town Hall, a Grecian temple standing upon an arcade basement, and built +of hard limestone<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> brought from the island of Anglesea. The interior is +chiefly a vast assembly-room, where concerts are given and political +meetings held, the latter usually being the more exciting, for we are +told that when party feeling runs high some of the Birmingham folk "are +a little too fond of preferring force to argument." But, although famed +for its Radical politics and the introduction of the "caucus" into +England, Birmingham will always be chiefly known by its manufactures, +and these will recall its illustrious inventors, Boulton and Watt. Their +factory was at Soho, just north of the town. Here Watt brought the +steam-engine to perfection, here gas was first used, plating was +perfected, and myriads of inventions were developed. "The labors of +Boulton and Watt at Soho," says the historian Langford, "changed the +commercial aspects of the world." Their history is, however, but an +epitome of the wonderful story of this great city of the glass and +metal-workers, whose products supply the entire globe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p127.jpg" width="650" height="400" alt="THE TOWN-HALL, BIRMINGHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TOWN-HALL, BIRMINGHAM.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>FOTHERINGHAY.</h3> + +<p>In our journey through Midland England we have paused at many of the +prison-houses of Mary Queen of Scots. In Northamptonshire, near Elton, +are the remains of the foundations of the castle of Fotheringhay, out in +a field, with the mound of the keep rising in front of them; this was +the unfortunate queen's last prison. It was a noted castle, dating from +the twelfth century, and had been a principal residence of the +Plantagenets. Here Mary was tried and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> beheaded, February 8, 1587. She +is said to have borne up under her great afflictions with marvellous +courage. Conducted to the scaffold after taking leave of all, she made a +short address, declaring that she had never sought the life of her +cousin Elizabeth—that she was queen-born, not subject to the laws, and +forgiving all. Her attendants in tears then assisted her to remove her +clothing, but she firmly said, "Instead of weeping, rejoice; I am very +happy to leave this world and in so good a cause." Then she knelt, and +after praying stretched out her neck to the executioner, imagining that +he would strike off her head while in an upright posture and with the +sword, as in France; they told her of her mistake, and without ceasing +to pray she laid her head on the block. There was a universal feeling of +compassion, even the headsman himself being so moved that he did his +work with unsteady hand, the axe falling on the back of her head and +wounding her; but she did not move nor utter a complaint, and, repeating +the blow, he struck off her head, which he held up, saying, "God save +Queen Elizabeth!" Her lips moved for some time after death, and few +recognized her features, they were so much changed.</p> + + +<h3>HOLMBY HOUSE.</h3> + +<p>Also in Northamptonshire is Holmby House, where King Charles I. was +captured by the army previous to his trial. It was built by Sir +Christopher Hatton in Queen Elizabeth's time, but only the gates and +some outbuildings remain. After the battle of Naseby the king +surrendered himself to the Scots, and they, through an arrangement with +the English Parliament, conducted him to Holmby House, where he +maintained something of sovereign state, though under the surveillance +of the Parliamentary commissioners. He devoted his time to receiving +visitors, the bowling-green, and the chess-table. This continued for +some months, when a struggle began between the army and the Parliament +to decide whose captive he was. The army subsequently, by a plot, got +possession of Holmby, and, practically making prisoners of the garrison +and the commissioners of Parliament, they abducted the king and took him +to a house near Huntingdon. Fairfax sent two regiments of troops thither +to escort him back to Holmby, but he had been treated with great +courtesy and declined to go back. Thus by his own practical consent the +king was taken possession of by Cromwell, Fairfax, and Ireton, who were +in command, although they denied it, and put the whole blame on one +Cornet Joyce who was in command of the detachment of troops that took +possession of Holmby. The king was ultimately taken to London, tried, +and executed in Whitehall. At Ashby St. Leger, near Daventry, in +Northamptonshire, is the gate-house of the ancient manor of the +Catesbys, of whom Robert Catesby was the contriver of the Gunpowder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +Plot. The thirteen conspirators who framed the plot met in a room over +the gateway which the villagers call the "Plot-room," and here Guy +Fawkes was equipped for his task, which so alarmed the kingdom that to +this day the cellars of the Parliament Houses are searched before the +session begins for fear a new plot may have been hatched, while the +anniversary is kept as a solemn holiday in London. The lantern used by +Guy Fawkes is still preserved in the Oxford Museum having been given to +the University in 1641.</p> + + +<h3>BEDFORD CASTLE.</h3> + +<p>One of the most ancient of the strongholds of Midland England was the +Bedicanford of the Saxons, where contests took place between them and +the Britons as early as the sixth century. It stood in a fertile valley +on the Ouse, and is also mentioned in the subsequent contests with the +Danes, having been destroyed by them in the eleventh century. Finally, +William Rufus built a castle there, and its name gradually changed to +Bedford. It was for years subject to every storm of civil war—was taken +and retaken, the most famous siege lasting sixty days, when Henry III. +personally conducted the operations, being attended by the Archbishop of +Canterbury and the chief peers of the realm: this was in 1224, and the +most ingenious engines of war were used to batter down the castle-walls, +which till then had been regarded as impregnable. The stronghold was +ultimately captured, chiefly through the agency of a lofty wooden castle +higher than the walls, which gave an opportunity of seeing all that +passed within. The governor of the castle, twenty-four knights, and +eighty soldiers, making most of the garrison, were hanged. King Henry +then dismantled it and filled up the ditches, so as to "uproot this +nursery of sedition." The ruins lasted some time afterward, but now only +the site is known, located alongside the river Ouse, which runs through +the city of Bedford. This town is of great interest, though, as Camden +wrote two centuries ago, it is more eminent for its "pleasant situation +and antiquity than for anything of beauty and stateliness." Its +neighborhood has been a noted mine for antiquities, disclosing remains +of ancient races of men and of almost pre-historic animals of the Bronze +and Iron Ages. The town lies rather low on the river, with a handsome +bridge connecting the two parts, and pretty gardens fringing each shore. +This bridge is a modern structure, having succeeded the "old bridge," +which stood there several centuries with a gate-house at either end, in +the larger of which was the old jail, that had for its most +distinguished occupant that sturdy townsman of Bedford, John Bunyan. The +castle-mound, which is all that is left, and on which once stood the +keep, is on the river-shore just below the bridge, and is now used for a +bowling-green in the garden of the chief hotel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> The memorials of the +author of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>, first a prisoner and then a minister +of the gospel in Bedford, are probably the most prized remains of +ancient days that Bedford has, though they are now becoming scarce.</p> + + +<h3>JOHN BUNYAN.</h3> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p130-2.jpg" width="600" height="312" alt="ELSTOW CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ELSTOW CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p130" id="p130"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p130-1.jpg" width="450" height="446" alt="ELSTOW, BEDFORD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ELSTOW, BEDFORD.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Elstow, a village about one mile south of Bedford, was Bunyan's +birthplace. The house is still pointed out, though a new front has been +put into it, and it is a very small building, suitable to the tinker's +humble estate. The village-green where he played is near by, alongside +the churchyard wall; the church, which has been little changed, stands +on the farther side of the yard, with a massive tower at the +north-western angle, looking more like a fortress than a religious +edifice. The bells are still there which Bunyan used to ring, and they +also point out "Bunyan's Pew" inside, though the regularity of his +attendance is not vouched for, as he says "absenting himself from +church" was one of his offences during the greater part of his life. He +married early and in poor circumstances, the young couple "not having so +much household stuff as a dish or spoon betwixt them both," though he +considered it among his mercies that he was led "to light upon a wife of +godly parentage." He says that a marked change in his mental condition +suddenly began while playing a game of "tip-cat" on Sunday afternoon on +the village-green, having listened in the morning to a sermon upon +Sabbath-breaking. His conscience smote him; he abandoned the game, +leaving his cat upon the ground, and then began his great spiritual +struggle. He joined the Baptists, and began preaching, for at length, +after many tribulations, he says, "the burden fell from off his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> back." +He was persecuted, and committed to Bedford jail, where he remained +(with short intervals of parole) for about twelve years. Here he wrote +what Macaulay declares to be incomparably the finest allegory in the +English language—the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>. He was a voluminous author, +having written some sixty tracts and books. Finally pardoned in 1672, he +became pastor of the Bedford meeting-house, and afterwards escaped +molestation; he preached in all parts of the kingdom, especially in +London, where he died at the age of sixty, having caught cold in a heavy +storm while going upon an errand of mercy in 1688. His great work will +live as long as the Anglo-Saxon race endures. "That wonderful book," +writes Macaulay, "while it obtains admiration from the most fastidious +critics, is loved by those who are too simple to admire it.... Every +reader knows the strait and narrow path as well as he knows a road in +which he has gone backward and forward a hundred times. This is the +highest miracle of genius, that things which are not should be as though +they were—that the imaginations of one mind should become the personal +recollections of another; and this miracle the tinker has wrought."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<img src="images/p131.jpg" width="365" height="450" alt="NORTH DOOR, ELSTOW CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORTH DOOR, ELSTOW CHURCH.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>WOBURN ABBEY.</h3> + +<p>The county of Bedford gives the title to the dukedom held by the head of +the great family of Russell, and Francis Charles Hastings Russell, the +ninth Duke of Bedford, has his residence at the magnificent estate of +Woburn Abbey. It is about forty miles from London, and on the +Buckinghamshire border. Here the Cistercians founded an abbey in the +twelfth century, which continued until the dissolution of the religious +houses by Henry VIII., and the last abbot, Robert Hobs, was executed for +denying the king's religious supremacy, the tree on which he was hanged +being still carefully preserved in Woburn Park. The abbey and its domain +were granted by the youthful king Edward VI. to John Russell, first Earl +of Bedford, under circumstances which show how fortune sometimes smiles +upon mortals. Russell, who had been abroad and was an accomplished +linguist, had in 1506 returned, and was living with his father in +Dorsetshire at Berwick, near the sea-coast. Soon afterwards in a tempest +three foreign vessels sought refuge in the neighboring port of Weymouth. +On one of them was the Austrian archduke Philip, son-in-law of Ferdinand +and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> Isabella, who was on his way to Spain. The governor took the +archduke to his castle, and invited young Mr. Russell to act as +interpreter. The archduke was so delighted with him that he subsequently +invited Russell to accompany him on a visit to King Henry VII. at +Windsor. The king was also impressed with Russell, and appointed him to +an office in the court, and three years afterwards, Henry VIII. becoming +king, Russell was entrusted with many important duties, and was raised +to the peerage as Baron Russell. He enjoyed the king's favor throughout +his long reign, and was made one of the councillors of his son, Edward +VI., besides holding other high offices, and when the youthful prince +ascended the throne he made Russell an earl and gave him the magnificent +domain of Woburn Abbey. He also enjoyed the favor of Queen Mary, and +escorted her husband Philip from Spain, this being his last public act. +Dying in 1555, he was buried in the little parish church of Chenies, +near Woburn, where all the Russells rest from his time until now. He +thus founded one of the greatest houses of England, which has furnished +political leaders from that day to this, for the Dukes of Bedford and +Devonshire are the heads of the Whig party, and Lord John Russell +(afterwards an earl) was the uncle of the present duke.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p132.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="WOBURN ABBEY, WEST FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WOBURN ABBEY, WEST FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"> +<img src="images/p133.jpg" width="368" height="450" alt="THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, WOBURN ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SCULPTURE-GALLERY, WOBURN ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p134" id="p134"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p134.jpg" width="450" height="264" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE PUZZLE-GARDEN, WOBURN ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE PUZZLE-GARDEN, WOBURN ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Woburn Abbey remained until the last century much in its original +condition, but in 1747 changes began which have since been continued, +and have resulted in the construction of the ducal palace now adorning +the spot. The mansion is a quadrangle enclosing a spacious court, the +chief front being towards the west and extending two hundred and thirty +feet. It is an Ionic building with a rustic basement, and within are +spacious state-apartments and ample accommodations for the family. The +rooms are filled with the best collection of portraits of great +historical characters in the kingdom, and most of them are by famous +artists. They include all the Earls and Dukes of Bedford, with their +wives and famous relatives, and also the Leicesters, Essexes, and +Sydneys of Queen Elizabeth's reign, with many others. The unfortunate +Lord William Russell and his wife Rachel are here, and over his portrait +is the walking-stick which supported him to the scaffold, while hanging +on the wall is a copy of his last address, printed within an hour after +his execution. Of another of these old portraits Horace Walpole writes: +"A pale Roman nose, a head of hair loaded with crowns and powdered with +diamonds, a vast ruff and still vaster fardingale, and a bushel of +pearls, are the features by which everybody knows at once the pictures +of Queen Elizabeth." There is a fine library, and passing out of it into +the flower-garden is seen on the lawn the stump of the yew tree which +Mr. Gladstone felled in October, 1878, as a memorial of his visit, he +being as proud of his ability as a forester as he is of his eminence as +a statesman. From the house a covered way leads to the statue-gallery, +which contains an admirable collection, and the green-house, one hundred +and fifty feet long, filled with valuable foreign plants, the family +being great horticulturists. Busts of the great Whig statesmen are in +the gallery, and it also contains the celebrated Lanti vase, brought +from Rome. The "Woburn Abbey Marbles" have long been a Mecca for +sculpture-loving pilgrims from both sides of the ocean. There are +extensive stables, and to them are attached a fine tennis-court and +riding-house, both constantly used by the younger Russells. Beyond is a +Chinese dairy kept for show, and in a distant part of the grounds a +curious puzzle-garden and rustic grotto. Woburn Park is one of the +largest private enclosures in England, covering thirty-five hundred +acres, and enclosed by a brick wall twelve miles long and eight feet +high.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> It is undulating in surface, containing several pretty lakes and +a large herd of deer. Its "Evergreen Drive" is noted, for in the +spring-time it attracts visitors from all quarters to see the +magnificence of the rhododendrons, which cover two hundred acres. The +state entrance to the park is through a large stone archway with +ornamental gates, called the "Golden Gates," on the road from London, +and having two drives of about a mile each leading up to the abbey. The +dukes are liberal patrons of agriculture, and their annual +"sheep-shearing" used to be one of the great festivals of this part of +England. They have also aided in the work of draining the Fen country, +which extends into Bedfordshire, and which has reclaimed a vast domain +of the best farm-land, stretching northward for fifty miles.</p> + + + +<h3>STOWE.</h3> + +<p>We are now approaching London, and, crossing over the border into +Buckinghamshire, come to another ducal palace. This is the fine estate, +near the town of Buckingham, of Stowe, also originally an abbey, which +came into possession of the Temple family in the sixteenth century, and +in 1749 merged into the estate of the Grenvilles, the ancestors of the +Duke of Buckingham, its present owner. Stowe gets its chief fame from +its pleasure-gardens, which Pope has commemorated. They appear at a +distance like a vast grove, from whose luxuriant foliage emerge +obelisks, columns, and towers. They are adorned with arches, pavilions, +temples, a rotunda, hermitage, grotto, lake, and bridge. The temples are +filled with statuary. The mansion, which has been greatly enlarged, has +a frontage of nine hundred and sixteen feet, and its windows look out +over the richest possible landscape, profuse with every adornment. In +the interior the rooms, opening one into another, form a superb suite. +There is a Rembrandt Room, hung with pictures by that painter, and there +were many curiosities from Italy: old tapestry and draperies; rich +Oriental stuffs, the spoils of Tippoo Saib; furniture from the Doge's +Palace in Venice; marble pavements from Rome; fine paintings and +magnificent plate. Formerly, Stowe contained the grandest collection in +England, and in this superb palace, thus gorgeously furnished, Richard +Grenville, the first Duke of Buckingham, entertained Louis XVIII. and +Charles X. of France and their suites during their residence in England. +His hospitality was too much for him, and, bur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>dened with debt, he was +compelled to shut up Stowe and go abroad. In 1845 his successor received +Queen Victoria at Stowe at enormous cost, and in 1848 there was a +financial crisis in the family. The sumptuous contents of the palace +were sold to pay the debts, and realized $375,000. A splendid avenue of +elms leads up from the town of Buckingham to Stowe, a distance of two +miles.</p> + +<p>Not far away from Buckingham is Whaddon Hall, formerly a seat of the +Dukes of Buckingham, but best known as the residence of Browne Willis, +an eccentric antiquary, whose person and dress were so singular that he +was often mistaken for a beggar, and who is said "to have written the +very worst hand of any man in England." He wore one pair of boots for +forty years, having them patched when they were worn out, and keeping +them till they had got all in wrinkles, so that he was known as "Old +Wrinkle-boots." He was great for building churches and quarrelling with +the clergy, and left behind him valuable collections of coins and +manuscripts, which he bequeathed to Oxford University. Great Hampden, +the home of the patriot, John Hampden, is also in Buckinghamshire. The +original house remains, much disfigured by stucco and whitewash, and +standing in a secluded spot in the Chiltern Hills; it is still the +property of his descendants in the seventh generation.</p> + + +<h3>CRESLOW HOUSE.</h3> + +<p>The manor of Creslow in Buckinghamshire, owned by Lord Clifford of +Chudleigh, is a pasture-farm of eight hundred and fifty acres, and is +said to raise some of the finest cattle in England; it was the home of +the regicide Holland. The mansion is an ancient one, spacious and +handsome, much of it, including the crypt and tower, coming down from +the time of Edward III., with enlargements in the fifteenth and +sixteenth centuries. It is a picturesque yet venerable building, with +many gables and curious chimneys, and surmounted by a square tower and +loopholed turret. But its chief interest attaches to the two ancient +cellars known as the crypt and the dungeon: the crypt is about twelve +feet square, excavated in the limestone rock, and having a Gothic +vaulted ceiling, with a single small window; the dungeon is eighteen +feet long, half as wide, and six feet high, without any windows, and +with a roof formed of massive stones. This is the "haunted chamber of +Creslow"—haunted by a lady, Rosamond Clifford, the "Fair Rosamond" of +Woodstock, often heard, but seldom seen, by those who stay at night in +the room, which she enters by a Gothic doorway leading from the crypt. +Few have ever ventured to sleep there, but not long ago a guest was +prevailed upon to do it, and next morning at breakfast he told his +story: "Having entered the room, I locked and bolted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> both doors, +carefully examined the whole room, and satisfied myself that there was +no living creature in it but myself, nor any entrances but those I had +secured. I got into bed, and, with the conviction that I should sleep as +usual till six in the morning, I was soon lost in a comfortable slumber. +Suddenly I was aroused, and on raising my head to listen I heard a sound +certainly resembling the light, soft tread of a lady's footstep, +accompanied with the rustling as of a silk gown. I sprang out of bed and +lighted a candle; there was nothing to be seen and nothing now to be +heard; I carefully examined the whole room, looked under the bed, into +the fireplace, up the chimney, and at both the doors, which were +fastened as I had left them; I looked at my watch, and it was a few +minutes past twelve. As all was now perfectly quiet, I extinguished the +candle and soon fell asleep. I was again aroused; the noise was now +louder than before; it appeared like the violent rustling of a stiff +silk dress. I sprang out of bed, darted to the spot where the noise was, +and tried to grasp the intruder in my arms: my arms met together, but +enclosed nothing. The noise passed to another part of the room, and I +followed it, groping near the floor to prevent anything passing under my +arms. It was in vain; I could feel nothing; the noise had passed away +through the Gothic door, and all was still as death. I lighted a candle +and examined the Gothic door, but it was shut and fastened just as I had +left it; I again examined the whole room, but could find nothing to +account for the noise. I now left the candle burning, though I never +sleep comfortably with a light in my room; I got into bed, but felt, it +must be acknowledged, not a little perplexed at not being able to detect +the cause of the noise, nor to account for its cessation when the candle +was lighted. While ruminating on these things I fell asleep, and began +to dream about murders and secret burials and all sorts of horrible +things; and just as I fancied myself knocked down by a knight templar, I +awoke and found the sun shining brightly."</p> + +<p>This ancient house was originally the home of a lodge of Knights +Templar, and the dungeon, which is now said to be appropriately +decorated with skulls and other human bones, was formerly their +stronghold. At this weird mansion, within a few minutes' ride of the +metropolis, we will close our descriptive journey through Midland +England, and its mystic tale will recall that passage from the <i>Book of +Days</i> which counsels—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Doubtless there are no ghosts;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet somehow it is better not to move,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lest cold hands seize upon us from behind."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV.</h2> + +<h3>THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Thames Head—Cotswold Hills—Seven +Springs—Cirencester—Cheltenham—Sudeley +Castle—Chavenage—Shifford—Lechlade—Stanton Harcourt—Cumnor +Hall—Fair Rosamond—Godstow Nunnery—Oxford—Oxford +Colleges—Christ Church—Corpus Christi—Merton—Oriel—All +Souls—University—Queen's—Magdalen—Brasenose—New +College—Radcliffe Library—Bodleian +Library—Lincoln—Exeter—Wadham—Keble—Trinity—Balliol—St. +John's—Pembroke—Oxford Churches—Oxford Castle—Carfax +Conduit—Banbury—Broughton +Castle—Woodstock—Marlborough—Blenheim—Minster +Lovel—Bicester—Eynsham—Abingdon—Radley—Bacon, Rich, and +Holt—Clifton Hampden—Caversham—Reading—Maidenhead—Bisham +Abbey—Vicar of Bray—Eton College—Windsor Castle—Magna Charta +Island—Cowey Stakes—Ditton—Twickenham—London—Fire +Monument—St. Paul's Cathedral—Westminster Abbey—The +Tower—Lollards and Lambeth—Bow Church—St. +Bride's—Whitehall—Horse Guards—St. James Palace—Buckingham +Palace—Kensington Palace—Houses of Parliament—Hyde Park—Marble +Arch—Albert Memorial—South Kensington Museum—Royal +Exchange—Bank of England—Mansion House—Inns of Court—British +Museum—Some London Scenes—The Underground Railway—Holland +House—Greenwich—Tilbury Fort—The Thames Mouth.</p></div> + + +<h3>THE THAMES HEAD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p138" id="p138"></a> +<img src="images/p138.jpg" width="600" height="259" alt="THAMES HEAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THAMES HEAD.</span> +</div> + +<p>The river Thames is the largest and most important river in England, and +carries the greatest commerce in the world. From the Cotswold Hills in +Gloucestershire it flows to the eastward past London, and after a course +of two hundred and twenty miles empties into the North Sea. The +confluence of many small streams draining the Cotswolds makes the +Thames, but its traditional source, or "The Thames Head," is in +Trewsbury Mead, about three miles from Cirencester, and at an elevation +of three hundred and seventy-six feet above the sea-level. The waters of +the infant stream are at once pressed into service for pumping into the +higher levels of a canal, which pierces the Cotswolds by a long tunnel, +and connects the Thames with the Severn River, flowing along their +western base. It receives many tiny rivulets that swell its current, +until at Cricklade the most ambitious of these affluents joins it, and +even lays claim to be the original stream. This is the Churn, rising at +the "Seven Springs," about three miles from Cheltenham, and also on the +slope of the Cotswolds. The Churn claims the honor because it is twenty +miles long, while the Thames down to Cricklade measures only ten miles. +But they come together affectionately, and journey on through rich +meadows much like other streams, until the clear waters have acquired +sufficient dignity to turn a mill.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> Cirencester (pronounced Cisseter), +which thus has the honor of being a near neighbor of the Thames Head, is +an ancient town, occupying the site of the Roman city of Corinium, and +is known as the "metropolis of the Cotswolds." Here four great Roman +roads met, and among the many Roman remains it has is part of the ruins +of an amphitheatre. It was a famous stronghold before the Saxons came to +England, and Polydorus tells how one Gormund, an African prince, in the +dim ages of the past, besieged it for seven long years. Then he +bethought him that if he could only set fire to the thatched roofs of +the houses he could in the commotion that would follow force an +entrance. So he set his troops at work catching sparrows, and when many +were caught fastened combustibles under their tails and let them loose. +The poor birds flew straight to their nests under the thatches, set them +in a blaze, and while the people were busy putting out the fires Gormund +got into the town. In memory of this it was afterwards called the "City +of Sparrows." The Normans built a strong castle here, and Stephen +destroyed it. The castle was rebuilt, and suffered the usual fate in the +successive civil wars, and in the Revolution of 1688 the first bloodshed +was at Cirencester. It had a magnificent abbey, built for the Black +Canons in the twelfth century, and ruled by a mitred abbot who had a +seat in Parliament. A fine gateway of this abbey remains, and also the +beautiful church with its pretty tower. It is known now as the parish +church of St. John, and has been thoroughly restored. Within are the +monuments of the Bathurst family, whose seat at Oakley Park, near the +town, has some charming scenery. Pope's Seat, a favorite resort of the +poet, is also in the park. Cheltenham, near which is the "Seven +Springs," the source of the Churn, is a popular watering-place, with the +Earl of Eldon's seat at Stowell Park not far<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> away. Here in 1864 a Roman +villa was discovered, which has been entirely excavated. It has twenty +chambers communicating with a long corridor, and there are several +elegant tessellated pavements, while the walls are still standing to a +height of four feet. Two temples have also been found in the immediate +neighborhood. Substantial buildings have been erected to protect these +precious remains from the weather.</p> + + +<h3>SUDELEY CASTLE AND CHAVENAGE.</h3> + +<p>In the Cotswolds is the castle of Sudeley, its ruins being in rather +good preservation. It was an extensive work, built in the reign of Henry +VI., and was destroyed in the Civil Wars; it was a famous place in the +olden time, and was regarded as one of the most magnificent castles in +England when Queen Elizabeth made her celebrated progress thither in +1592. After the death of Henry VIII., his queen, Catharine Parr, married +Lord Seymour of Sudeley, and she died and was buried in this castle: it +is related that her leaden coffin was exhumed in 1782, two hundred and +eighty years after her death, and the remains were found in excellent +preservation. Among the records of the castle is a manuscript stating +that Catharine Parr was told by an astrologer who calculated her +nativity that she was born to sit in the "highest state of imperial +majesty," and that she had all the eminent stars and planets in her +house: this worked such lofty conceit in the lady that "her mother could +never make her sew or do any small work, saying her hands were ordained +to touch crowns and sceptres, not needles and thimbles." Near Tatbury, +and also in the Cotswolds, is the source of the classic river Avon, and +north-west of the town is the fine Elizabethan mansion of Chavenage, +with its attractive hall and chapel. The original furniture, armor, and +weapons are still preserved. This was the old manor-house of the family +of Stephens, and Nathaniel represented Gloucestershire in Parliament at +the time of the conviction of Charles I.: it is related that he was only +persuaded to agree to the condemnation by the impetuous Ireton, who came +there and sat up all night in urgent argument "to whet his almost +blunted purpose." Stephens died in May, 1649, expressing regret for +having participated in the execution of his sovereign. We are further +told in the traditions of the house that when all the relatives were +assembled for the funeral, and the courtyard was crowded with equipages, +another coach, gorgeously ornamented and drawn by black horses, solemnly +approached the porch: when it halted, the door opened, and, clad in his +shroud, the shade of Stephens glided into the carriage; the door was +closed by an unseen hand, and the coach moved off, the driver being a +beheaded man, arrayed in royal vestments and wearing the insignia of the +Star and Garter. Passing the gateway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> of the courtyard, the equipage +vanished in flames. Tradition maintains also that every lord of +Chavenage dying in the manor-house since has departed in the same awful +manner.</p> + +<p>The Thames flows on after its junction with the Churn, and receives +other pretty streams, all coming out of the Cotswolds. The Coln and the +Leche, coming in near Lechlade, swell its waters sufficiently to make it +navigable for barges, and the river sets up a towing-path, for here the +canal from the Severn joins it. The river passes in solitude out of +Gloucestershire, and then for miles becomes the boundary between +Oxfordshire on the north and Berkshire on the south. The canal has been +almost superseded by the railway, so that passing barges are rare, but +the towing-path and the locks remain, with an occasional rustic dam +thrown across the gradually widening river. In this almost deserted +region is the isolated hamlet of Shifford, where King Alfred held a +parliament a thousand years ago. Near it is the New Bridge, a solid +structure, but the oldest bridge that crosses the Thames, for it was +"new" just six hundred years ago. The Thames then receives the Windrush +and the Evenlode, and it passes over frequent weirs that have become +miniature rapids, yet not too dangerous for an expert oarsman to guide +his boat through safely. Thus the famous river comes to Bablock Hythe +Ferry, and at once enters an historic region.</p> + + +<h3>STANTON HARCOURT AND CUMNOR HALL.</h3> + +<p><a name="p140" id="p140"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 341px;"> +<img src="images/p140.jpg" width="341" height="450" alt="DOVECOTE, STANTON HARCOURT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOVECOTE, STANTON HARCOURT.</span> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A short distance from the ferry in Oxfordshire is Stanton Harcourt, with +its three upright sandstones, "the Devil's Coits," supposed to have been +put there to commemorate a battle between the Saxons and the Britons +more than twelve centuries ago. The village gets its name from the large +and ancient mansion of the Harcourts, of which, however, but little +remains. Pope passed the greater part of two summers in the deserted +house in a tower that bears his name, and where he wrote the fifth +volume of his translation of Homer in the topmost room: he recorded the +fact on a pane of glass in the window in 1718, and this pane has been +carefully preserved. The kitchen of the strange old house still remains, +and is a remarkable one, being described as "either a kitchen within a +chimney or a kitchen without one." In the lower part this kitchen is a +large square room; above it is octangular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> and ascends like a tower, the +fires being made against the walls, and the smoke climbing up them until +it reaches the conical apex, where it goes out of loopholes on any side +according to the wind. The distance from the floor to the apex is about +sixty feet, and the interior is thickly coated with soot. The fireplaces +are large enough to roast an ox whole.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/p141.jpg" width="550" height="413" alt="CUMNOR CHURCHYARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CUMNOR CHURCHYARD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Not far from the ferry, in Berkshire, is the ancient manor-house of +Cumnor Hall, sacred to the melancholy memory of poor Amy Robsart. She +was the wife of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and when his ambition led him +to seek Queen Elizabeth's hand it was necessary to get her out of the +way. So he sent Amy to Cumnor, where his servant Anthony Forster lived. +At first poison was tried, but she suspected it, and would not take the +potion. Then, sending all the people away, Sir Richard Varney and +Forster, with another man, strangled her, and afterwards threw her down +stairs, breaking her neck. It was at first given out that poor Amy had +fallen by accident and killed herself, but people began to suspect +differently, and the third party to the murder, being arrested for a +felony and threatening to tell, was privately made away with in prison +by Leicester's orders. Both Varney and Forster became melancholy before +their deaths, and finally a kinswoman of the earl, on her dying bed, +told the whole story. The earl had Amy buried with great pomp at Oxford, +but it is recorded that the chaplain by accident "tripped once or twice +in his speech by recommending to their memories that virtuous lady so +pitifully <i>murdered</i>, instead of saying pitifully <i>slain</i>." Sir Walter +Scott has woven her sad yet romantic story into his tale of +<i>Kenilworth</i>; and to prove how ambition overleaps itself, we find Lord +Burghley, among other reasons which he urged upon the queen why she +should not marry Leicester, saying that "he is infamed by the murder of +his wife." The queen remained a virgin sovereign, and Leicester's crime +availed only to blacken his character.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>FAIR ROSAMOND.</h3> + +<p><a name="p142" id="p142"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 447px;"> +<img src="images/p142.jpg" width="447" height="450" alt="GODSTOW NUNNERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GODSTOW NUNNERY.</span> +</div> + +<p><br /><br />The Thames flows on past the wooded glades of Wytham Abbey, and then +revives the memory of Fair Rosamond as it skirts the scanty ruins of +Godstow Nunnery. This religious house upon the river-bank was founded in +the reign of Henry I., and the ruins are some remains of the walls and +of a small chapter-house in which Rosamond's corpse was deposited. It +was at Woodstock, in Oxfordshire, then a royal palace, that in the +twelfth century Henry II. built "Fair Rosamond's Bower" for his charmer, +who was the daughter of Lord Clifford. This bower was surrounded by a +labyrinth. Queen Eleanor, whom the king had married only from ambitious +motives, was much older than he, and he had two sons by Rosamond, whom +he is said to have first met at Godstow Nunnery. The bower consisted of +arched vaults underground. There are various legends of the discovery of +Rosamond by Eleanor, the most popular being that the queen discovered +the ball of silk the king used to thread the maze of the labyrinth, and +following it found the door and entered the bower. She is said to have +ill-treated and even poisoned Rosamond, but the belief now is that +Rosamond retired to the nunnery from sorrow at the ultimate defection of +her royal lover, and did not die for several years. The story has been +the favorite theme of the poets, and we are told that her body was +buried in the nunnery, and wax lights placed around the tomb and kept +continually burning. Subsequently, her remains were reinterred in the +chapter-house, with a Latin inscription, which is thus translated:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"This tomb doth here enclose the world's most beauteous rose—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rose passing sweet erewhile, now naught but odor vile."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<h3>OXFORD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p143" id="p143"></a> +<img src="images/p143.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE CHERWELL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE CHERWELL.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p144-1" id="p144-1"></a></p> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="p144-1/144-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-1.jpg" width="220" height="450" + alt="DORMER WINDOW, MERTON COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-2.jpg" width="304" height="450" + alt="STONE PULPIT, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">DORMER WINDOW, MERTON COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STONE PULPIT, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="p144-3" id="p144-3"></a></p> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" cellspacing="0" summary="p144-3/144-4"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-3.jpg" width="220" height="450" + alt="GABLE AT ST. ALDATE'S COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p144-4.jpg" width="304" height="450" + alt="BOW WINDOW, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">GABLE AT ST. ALDATE'S COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">BOW WINDOW, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>As we float along the quiet Thames the stately towers and domes of the +university city of Oxford come in sight, and appear to suddenly rise +from behind a green railway embankment. Here the Cherwell flows along +the Christ Church meadows to join the great river, and we pause at the +ancient Ousenford—or the ford over the Ouse or Water—a name which time +has changed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> to Oxford. The origin of the famous university is involved +in obscurity. The city is mentioned as the scene of important political +and military events from the time of King Alfred, but the first +undisputed evidence that it was a seat of learning dates from the +twelfth century. Religious houses existed there in earlier years, and to +these schools were attached for the education of the clergy. From these +schools sprang the secular institutions that finally developed into +colleges, and common interest led to the association from which +ultimately came the university. The first known application of the word +to this association occurs in a statute of King John. In the thirteenth +century there were three thousand students at Oxford, and Henry III. +granted the university its first charter. In those early times the +university grew in wealth and numbers, and intense hostility was +developed between the students and townspeople, leading to the quarrels +between "Town and Gown" that existed for centuries, and caused frequent +riots and bloodshed. A penance for one of these disturbances, which +occurred in 1355 and sacrificed several lives, continued to be kept +until 1825. The religious troubles in Henry VIII.'s time reduced the +students to barely one thousand, but a small part of whom attended the +colleges, so that in 1546 only thirteen degrees were conferred. In 1603 +the university was given representation in Parliament; it was loyal to +Charles I., and melted its plate to assist him, so that after his +downfall it was plundered, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> almost ceased to have an existence as an +institution of learning; it has since had a quiet and generally +prosperous history. The university comprises twenty-one colleges, the +oldest being University College, founded in 1249, and the youngest the +Keble Memorial College, founded in 1870. University College, according +to tradition, represents a school founded by King Alfred in 872, and it +celebrated its millennial anniversary in 1872. Balliol College, founded +between 1263 and 1268, admits no one who claims any privilege on account +of rank or wealth, and is regarded as having perhaps the highest +standard of scholarship at Oxford. Christ Church College is the most +extensive in buildings, numbers, and endowments, and is a cathedral +establishment as well as college. There are now about eighty-five +hundred members of the university and twenty-five hundred +undergraduates. The wealth of some of the colleges is enormous, and they +are said to own altogether nearly two hundred thousand acres of land in +different parts of the kingdom, and to have about $2,100,000 annual +revenues, of which they expend not over $1,500,000, the remainder +accumulating. They also have in their gift four hundred and forty-four +benefices, with an annual income of $950,000. It costs a student about +$1200 to $1500 a year<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to live at Oxford, and about $325 in university +and college fees from matriculation to graduation, when he gets his +degree of B.A., or, if inattentive, fails to pass the examination, and, +in Oxford parlance, is said to be "plucked."</p> + + +<h3>THE OXFORD COLLEGES.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"> +<img src="images/p145.jpg" width="271" height="550" alt="GATEWAY OF CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p146-2" id="p146-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/p146-2.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="GATEWAY, MERTON COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY, MERTON COLLEGE.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The enumeration of the colleges which make up the university will +naturally begin with the greatest, Christ Church, founded by Cardinal +Wolsey, of which the principal façade extends four hundred feet along +St. Aldate's Street, and has a noble gateway in the centre surmounted by +a six-sided tower with a dome-like roof. Here hangs the great bell of +Oxford, "Old Tom," weighing seventeen thousand pounds, which every +night, just after nine o'clock, strikes one hundred and one strokes, +said to be in remembrance of the number of members the college had at +its foundation. Wolsey's statue stands in the gateway which leads into +the great quadrangle,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> called by the students, for short, "Tom Quad." +Here are the lodgings of the dean and canons, and also the Great Hall, +the finest in Oxford, and the room where the sovereign is received +whenever visiting the city. The ancient kitchen adjoins the hall, and +near by is the entrance to the cathedral, which has been restored, and +the ancient cloisters. From the buildings a meadow extends down to the +rivers, the Cherwell on the left and the Thames (here called the Isis) +on the right, which join at the lower part of the meadow. Beautiful +walks are laid out upon it, including the famous Oxford promenade, the +Broad Walk, a stately avenue of elms bordering one side of the meadow. +Here, on the afternoon of Show Sunday, which comes immediately before +Commemoration Day, nearly all the members of the university and the +students, in academic costume, make a promenade, presenting an animated +scene.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> +<a name="p146" id="p146"></a> +<img src="images/p146-1.jpg" width="480" height="600" alt="MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span> +</div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 433px;"> +<a name="p147" id="p147"></a> +<img src="images/p147.jpg" width="433" height="550" alt="ORIEL COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ORIEL COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Corpus Christi College was founded by Bishop Fox of Winchester in 1516, +and its quadrangle, which remains much as at the foundation, contains +the founder's statue, and also a remarkable dial, in the centre of which +is a perpetual calendar. This college is not very marked in +architecture. It stands at the back of Christ Church, and adjoining it +is Merton College, founded in 1264 by Walter de Merton. His idea was to +forbid the students following in after life any other pursuit than that +of parish priest. The chapel of Merton is one of the finest in Oxford, +and its massive tower is a city landmark. The entrance-gateway, +surmounted by a sculptured representation of St. John the Baptist, is +attractive, and the two college quadrangles are picturesque, the "Mob +Quad," or library quadrangle, being five hundred years<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> old, with the +Treasury and its high-pitched ashlar roof and dormer windows above one +of the entrance-passages. St. Alban Hall, built about 1230, adjoins +Merton, and is a Gothic structure with a curious old bell-tower. Oriel +College stands opposite Corpus Christi, but the ancient buildings of the +foundation in 1324-26 have all been superseded by comparatively modern +structures of the seventeenth century: though without any striking +architectural merits, the hall and chapel of this college are extremely +picturesque. Its fame is not so much from its buildings as from some of +its fellows, Whately, Keble, Wilberforce, Newman, Pusey, and Arnold +having been among them. St. Mary's Hall, an offshoot founded in the +fourteenth century, stands near this college. All Souls College is on +the High Street, and was founded in 1437, its buildings being, however, +modern, excepting one quadrangle. In the chapel is a magnificent +reredos, presented by Lord Bathurst, who was a fellow of All Souls, and +containing figures representing most of the fellows of his time: in the +library are Wren's original designs for building St. Paul's. This +college was founded by Archbishop Chichele for "the hele of his soul" +and of the souls of all those who perished in the French wars of King +Henry V.; hence its name. We are told that the good archbishop was much +troubled where to locate his college, and there appeared to him in a +dream a "right godly personage," who advised him to build it on the High +Street, and at a certain spot where he would be sure in digging to find +a "mallard, imprisoned but well fattened, in the sewer." He hesitated, +but all whom he consulted advised him to make the trial, and +accordingly, on a fixed day after mass, with due solemnity the digging +began. They had not dug long, the story relates, before they heard "amid +the earth horrid strugglings and flutterings and violent quackings of +the distressed mallard." When he was brought out he was as big as an +ostrich, and "much wonder was thereat, for the lycke had not been seen +in this londe nor in onie odir." The Festival of the Mallard was long +held in commemoration of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> event, at which was sung the "Merry Song +of the All Souls Mallard," beginning—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Griffin, bustard, turkey, capon,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Let other hungry mortals gape on,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And on the bones their stomach fill hard;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But let All Souls men have their mallard.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Oh, by the blood of King Edward,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">It was a wopping, wopping mallard!"</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>While the festival has passed away, the song is still sung at Oxford, +and the tale has given rise to much literature, there having been +vigorous contests waged over the authenticity of the mallard.</p> + +<p>University College, also on the High Street, though the earliest +founded, now has no building older than the seventeenth century. It has +an imposing Gothic front with two tower-gateways, while the recently +constructed New Building is an elegant structure erected in 1850. +Queen's College, founded in 1341 by Queen Philippa's confessor, and +hence its name, is a modern building by Wren and his pupils. St. Edmund +Hall, opposite Queen's College, is a plain building, but with +magnificent ivy on its walls.</p> + + +<h3>MAGDALEN AND BRASENOSE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p148" id="p148"></a> +<img src="images/p148.jpg" width="500" height="372" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE CLOISTERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE CLOISTERS.</span> +</div> + +<p>Bishop Patten of Winchester, who was surnamed Waynflete, founded +Magdalen College in 1458. It stands by the side of the Cherwell, and its +graceful tower, nearly four hundred years old, rises one hundred and +forty-five feet—one of the most beautiful constructions in Oxford. Its +quadrangles are fine, especially the one known as the Cloisters, which +remains much as it was in the time of the founder, and is ornamented +with rude sandstone statues erected in honor of a visit from King James +I. In accordance with ancient custom, on the morning of the first of +May, just as five o'clock strikes, a solemn Te Deum is sung on the top +of Magdalen Tower, where the choristers assemble in surplices and with +uncovered heads. When it closes the crowd on the ground below give out +discordant blasts from myriads of tin horns, but the Magdalen chime of +bells, said to be "the most tunable and melodious ring of bells in all +these parts and beyond," soon drowns the discord, and gives a glad +welcome<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> to the opening of spring. This custom survives from the time of +Henry VII., and the produce of two acres of land given to the college by +that king is used to pay for a feast for the choristers, spread later in +the day in the college hall. The college has a meadow and small +deer-park attached, known as the Magdalen Walks, and encircled by the +arms of the Cherwell, while avenues of trees along raised dykes +intersect it. The avenue on the north side of this meadow is known as +"Addison's Walk," and was much frequented by him when at this college. +The little deer-park, a secluded spot, abounds with magnificent elms. It +was at Magdalen that Wolsey was educated, being known as the "Boy +Bachelor," as he got his B.A. degree at the early age of fifteen. The +Botanic Garden is opposite Magdalen College, having a fine gateway with +statues of Charles I. and II. Magdalen College School, a modern +building, but an organization coeval with the college, is a short +distance to the westward.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> +<a name="p149" id="p149"></a> +<img src="images/p149.jpg" width="275" height="500" alt="FOUNDER'S TOWER, MAGDALEN COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FOUNDER'S TOWER, MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 501px;"> +<a name="p150" id="p150"></a> +<img src="images/p150.jpg" width="501" height="600" alt="MAGDALEN COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAGDALEN COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The King's Hall, commonly known as Brasenose College, and over the +entrance of which is a prominent brazen nose, still retains its chief +buildings as originally founded by the Bishop of Lincoln and Sir Richard +Sutton in 1512. The entrance-tower was recently restored, and the rooms +occupied by Bishop Heber, who was a member of this college, are still +pointed out, with their windows looking upon a large horse-chestnut tree +in the adjoining Exeter Gardens. This famous college is said to occupy +the spot where King Alfred's palace stood,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> and hence its name of the +King's Hall, which the king in his laws styled his palace. The part of +the palace which was used for the brew-house, or the <i>brasinium</i>, +afterwards became the college, and as early as Edward I. this found +ocular demonstration by the fixing of a brazen nose upon the gate. This +is also a relic of Friar Bacon's brazen head. We are told that this +famous friar, who lived at Oxford in the thirteenth century, became +convinced, "after great study," that if he should succeed in making a +head of brass which could speak, "he might be able to surround all +England with a wall of brass." So, with the assistance of another friar +and the devil, he went to work and accomplished it, but with the +drawback that the brazen head when finished was "warranted to speak in +the course of one month," but it was uncertain just when it would speak, +and "if they heard it not before it had done speaking, all their labor +would be lost." They watched it three weeks, but fatigue overmastered +them, and Bacon set his servant on watch, with orders to awaken them if +the head should speak. At the end of one half hour the fellow heard the +head say, "Time is;" at the end of another, "Time was;" and at the end +of a third half hour, "Time's past," when down fell the head with a +tremendous crash. The blockhead thought his master would be angry if +disturbed by such trifles, and this ended the experiment with the brazen +head. Yet Friar Bacon was a much wiser man than would be supposed by +those who only know him from this tale. He was esteemed the most learned +man ever at the great university, and it is considered doubtful if any +there in later years surpassed him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>NEW COLLEGE AND RADCLIFFE LIBRARY.</h3> + +<p><a name="p151" id="p151"></a></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p151.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:560px; height:550px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:300px; height:160px;"> </div> + + + +<p>William of Wykeham founded the New College, or the College of St. Mary +Winton, in 1380. It has a noble entrance, and in a niche above the +gateway is the Virgin, to whom an angel and the founder are addressing +themselves in prayer. The chapel has a massive detached bell-tower, and +in its windows are some fine stained glass, while the silver staff of +William of Wykeham is still preserved there. The cloisters are extensive +and picturesque, the ribbed roof resembling the bottom of a boat, while +the restored hall has a fine oaken roof. The New College gardens are +enclosed on three sides by the ancient walls of the city, which are well +preserved, and the enclo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>sure is one of the most beautiful in Oxford. +Through a door in a corner of the gardens there is a passageway opening +out of one of the bastions of the old walls into a strip of ground +called the "Slype," where a fine view is had of the bastions, with the +college bell-tower and chapel behind them. In making a recent addition +to the buildings of this college on the edge of the "Slype," the workmen +in digging for the foundations discovered the remains of a mammoth.</p> + +<p>New College Lane leads to Radcliffe Square, in the centre of which is +located the handsome Radcliffe Library, with colleges, churches, and +schools all around the square. Dr. Radcliffe, who was the +court-physician of King William III. and Queen Anne, founded this +library, which is in a handsome rotunda surmounted by a dome on an +octagonal base. The structure, which is one hundred feet in diameter, +rises to a height of one hundred and forty feet, and from the top there +is a fine view of the city. To the northward, at a short distance, are +the Schools, a quadrangular building, now chiefly occupied by the famous +Bodleian Library. From Radcliffe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> Square the entrance is through a +vaulted passage, the central gate-tower being a remarkable example of +the combination of the five orders of architecture piled one above the +other. In this building, on the lower floor, the public examinations of +the candidates for degrees are held, while above is the library which +Sir Thomas Bodley founded in the sixteenth century, and which contains +three hundred thousand volumes, including many ancient and highly-prized +works in print and manuscript.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p152-2" id="p152-2"></a> +<img src="images/p152-2.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, FROM THE QUADRANGLE OF BRASENOSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, FROM THE QUADRANGLE OF BRASENOSE.</span> +</div> + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p152-1" id="p152-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p152-1/153-1"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p152-1.jpg" width="298" height="450" + alt="NEW COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p153-1.jpg" width="270" height="450" + alt="DINING-HALL, EXETER COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">NEW COLLEGE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">DINING-HALL, EXETER COLLEGE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>Lincoln College was founded by Richard Flemyng, Bishop of Lincoln, in +1427. Here John Wesley was a member, and the pulpit from which he +preached is still kept as a precious relic. Opposite to Lincoln is Jesus +College, founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1571, though others assisted; it +was intended to be exclusively for Welshmen, but this has since been +changed. The chapel has a double chancel. Alongside of Lincoln is Exeter +College, founded by Walter Stapleton of Exeter in 1314: this is one of +the largest colleges, the greater part of the buildings being modern; +they are among the finest in Oxford. The hall, restored in the present +century, has a high-pitched timber roof, while the chapel, which is one +of the most remarkable edifices in Oxford, has a thin, small spire that +is conspicuous from a great distance. The Ashmolean Museum adjoins +Exeter College, and next to this is the Sheldonian Theatre, built in +1669 by Archbishop Sheldon of Canterbury, where the annual commemoration +is held and the honorary degrees are conferred. Not far away is Wadham +College, founded in 1613 by Nicholas Wadham and Dorothy his wife. It +has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> excellent buildings and a most beautiful garden. There is a new +Museum of Natural History in the park near by, and also Keble College, +founded in 1868 as a memorial of Rev. John Keble, the author of the +<i>Christian Year</i>. Its buildings are of variegated brick, the chapel +being the loftiest, most costly, and finest of its style in Oxford. The +building is a perfect glare of coloring.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 208px;"> +<a name="p153-2" id="p153-2"></a> +<img src="images/p153-2.jpg" width="208" height="450" alt="TRINITY COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TRINITY COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span> +</div> + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p154-1" id="p154-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p154-1/154-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p154-1.jpg" width="238" height="450" + alt="WINDOW IN ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, GARDEN FRONT." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p154-2.jpg" width="302" height="450" + alt="TOWER ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">WINDOW IN ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, GARDEN FRONT.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">TOWER ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>Trinity College was founded in 1554 by Sir Thomas Pope. Its tower and +chapel are Grecian, and the chapel has a most beautiful carved screen +and altarpiece. The library contains a chalice that once belonged to St. +Alban's Abbey. Kettel Hall, now a private dwelling, is a picturesque +building in front of Trinity. On Broad Street, where Trinity stands, is +also Balliol College, founded in the thirteenth century by John Balliol. +None of the existing buildings are earlier than the fifteenth century, +while the south front, with its massive tower, has just been rebuilt. It +was here that the martyrs Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley were burned. A +little farther along the same street is St. John's College, which Sir +Thomas White founded in 1557. It is fronted by a terrace planted with +fine elms. Its quadrangles and cloisters are much admired, especially +the venerable oriel windows and quaint stone gables of the library. St. +John's gardens are regarded as among the most attractive in Oxford. +Opposite St. John's are the university galleries, with their display of +the Pomfret Marbles and Raphael and Michel Angelo's paintings and +drawings, and behind this building is Worcester College, founded in 1714 +by Sir Thomas Cookes. Its gardens contain a lake. Pembroke College is +opposite Christ Church, and was founded in 1624 in honor of the Earl of +Pembroke, then the chancellor of the university. While its +entrance-gateway and hall, recently built, are fine, the other buildings +are not attractive. The chief remembrance of Pembroke is of Dr. Samuel +Johnson, who occupied apartments over the original gateway, but was +compelled by poverty to leave the college before taking his degree. This +completes the description of the colleges, halls, and schools of the +great university, which presents an array of institutions of learning +unrivalled in any part of the world, and of which Englishmen are justly +proud.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>OXFORD CHURCHES AND CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 234px;"> +<img src="images/p155.jpg" width="234" height="550" alt="OXFORD CHURCHES AND CASTLE" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>There are some fine churches in Oxford, notably the university church of +St. Mary the Virgin, conspicuous from its Decorated spire rising one +hundred and eighty-eight feet, which is a memorial of Queen Eleanor of +Castile. A short distance to the westward is All Saints Church. Fronting +Christ Church is St. Aldate's Church, also with a lofty spire and +Decorated tower. Like most English towns, Oxford had a castle, but its +remains are now reduced to a solitary tower, a few fragments of wall, +and a high mound. This castle has long been the property of Christ +Church, and was used for a prison, whence Cranmer and his fellow-martyrs +went to the stake. The old tower was built in the days of William Rufus. +Beneath the ruins is a crypt known as Maud's Chapel. In the centre of +the mound is an octagonal vaulted chamber, approached by a long flight +of steps, and containing a well. It was in this castle that the empress +Maud was besieged by King Stephen in 1141, but escaped in the night, the +castle surrendering next morning. The ground was covered with snow at +the time, and the empress, with three attendants, clad in white, passed +unnoticed through the lines of the besiegers and crossed the Thames on +the ice. Just before this Maud escaped from the castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> of Devizes as a +dead body drawn on a hearse. The castle of Oxford has been in a +dilapidated condition since Edward III.'s time. As an evidence of the +change of opinion, the Martyrs' Memorial stands on St. Giles Street in +honor of the martyrs who found the old tower of the castle their +prison-house until the bigots of that day were ready to burn them at the +stake in front of Balliol College.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 236px;"> +<img src="images/p156.jpg" width="236" height="550" alt="ALL SAINTS, FROM HIGH STREET." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALL SAINTS, FROM HIGH STREET.</span> +</div> + +<p>The intersection of the four principal streets of old Oxford makes what +is called the Carfax (a word derived from <i>quatre voies</i>), and here in +the olden time stood a picturesque conduit. Conduits in former years +were ornaments in many English towns, and some of them still remain in +their original locations. This conduit, which stood in the way of +traffic, was presented as a nuisance as long ago as the time of Laud, +and Lord Harcourt in 1787 removed it to his park at Nuneham. One of the +curious changes that have come over some Oxford landmarks is related of +a group of statues in the entrance to the Schools, where the Bodleian +Library is located. This group represents Mater Academia giving a book +to King James I., sitting in his chair of state, while winged Fame +trumpets the gift throughout the world. When the king saw this, +embellished with appropriate mottoes, all of which were gloriously gilt, +the ancient historian says he exclaimed, "By my soul! this is too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +glorious for Jeamy," and caused the gilded mottoes to be "whited out." +Originally, the statue of the king held a sceptre in his right hand, and +a book, commonly taken for the Bible, in his left. Both have +disappeared. The sceptre is said to have fallen upon the passing of the +Reform Bill, and the book came down about the time of the abolition of +the University Tests. The eastern part of Oxford is meadow-and +garden-land, extending down to the two famous rivers which unite just +below the town, and along whose shores the racing-boats in which the +students take so much interest are moored. Pretty bridges span both +streams, and we follow down the Thames again, skirting along its +picturesque shores past Iffley, with its romantic old mill and the +ancient church with its square tower rising behind, well-known landmarks +that are so familiar to boating-men, till we come to Nuneham Park, with +the old Carfax Conduit set on an eminence, and Blenheim Woods looming up +in the background, as we look towards Oxford.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 532px;"> +<a name="p157-1" id="p157-1"></a> +<img src="images/p157-1.jpg" width="532" height="600" alt="CARFAX CONDUIT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CARFAX CONDUIT.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p157-2" id="p157-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 298px;"> +<img src="images/p157-2.jpg" width="298" height="450" alt="IFFLEY MILL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">IFFLEY MILL.</span> +</div> + +<p style="margin-top: 10em;">The church of Iffley is beautifully situated on the Thames, but little +is known of its origin or history. It was in existence in 1189, when +King Henry II. died, and its architecture indicates that it could +scarcely have been built much before that time. It is an unusually good +specimen of the Norman style, and is in wonderful preservation, +considering its age. This church is peculiarly rich in its doorways, +having three of great value, and each differ<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>ing from the other. The +southern doorway is enriched with sculptured flowers, a style that is +almost unique in Norman architecture; it also contains rudely carved +imitations of Roman centaurs. On the south side of the church is an +ancient cross and one of the most venerable yew trees in the kingdom, in +the trunk of which time has made a hollow where a man could easily +conceal himself. There is not on all the Thames a scene more loved by +artists than that at Iffley, with its old mill and church embosomed in +foliage, and having an occasional fisherman lazily angling in the smooth +waters before them, while the Oxford oarsmen, some in fancy costumes, +paddle by.</p> +<p style="clear: both;"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;"> +<a name="p158" id="p158"></a> +<img src="images/p158.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="IFFLEY CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">IFFLEY CHURCH.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>BANBURY AND BROUGHTON.</h3> + +<p>If we go up the Cherwell towards the northern part of Oxfordshire, a +brief visit can be paid to the famous town of Banbury, noted for its +"castle, cross, and cakes." This was an ancient Roman station, and the +amphitheatre still exists just out of town. The castle was built in the +twelfth century, and many conflicts raged around it. Queen Elizabeth +granted the castle to Lord Saye and Sele, and one of his successors +first organized the revolt against Charles I. at his neighboring mansion +of Broughton. Banbury was a great Puritan stronghold, and it is related +that when a book descriptive of Banbury was being printed in those days, +it contained a sentence describing Banbury as remarkable for its cheese, +cakes, and ale. One Camden, looking at the press while the sheet was +being printed, thought this too light an expression, and changed the +word <i>ale</i> into <i>zeal</i>, so that the town became noted for Banbury<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> zeal +as well as cheese and cakes. The old castle, after standing several +desperate sieges, was demolished by the Puritans, and nothing now +remains excepting the moat and a small remnant of wall on which a +cottage has been built. The Banbury cakes are mentioned as early as +1686, and they are still in high repute, being sent to all parts of the +world. The Banbury cheese of which Shakespeare wrote is no longer made. +The Banbury cross has been immortalized in nursery-rhymes, but it was +taken down by the Puritans. The rhyme tells the little folk.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;"> +<img src="images/p159.jpg" width="448" height="600" alt="CROMWELL'S PARLIAMENT-HOUSE, BANBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CROMWELL'S PARLIAMENT-HOUSE, BANBURY.</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Ride a cock-horse to Banbury Cross,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To see a fine lady ride on a white horse;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With rings on her fingers and bells on her toes,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">She shall have music wherever she goes."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<p>Diligent research has developed some important information about this +fine lady. It appears that in "the Second Edward's reign a knight of +much renown, yclept Lord Herbert, chanced to live near famous Banbury +town." Now, this knight had one son left, and "fearless and brave was +he; and it raised the pride in the father's heart his gallant son to +see." The poetic tale goes on to relate "that near Lord Herbert's +ancient hall proud Banbury Castle stood, within the noble walls of which +dwelt a maiden young and good;" with much more to the same effect. There +is the usual result: the knight loves the lady, has a mortal combat with +the rival, and nearly loses his life. The fair lady nurses him with +care, but as he gradually sinks she loses hope and pines away. A holy +monk lived in the castle, and, noticing her despondency, offers to +effect a cure. He prescribes: "To-morrow, at the midnight hour, go to +the cross alone: for Edward's rash and hasty deed perhaps thou mayst +atone." She goes there, walks around the cross, and Edward is cured. +Then all rejoice, and a festival is ordered, whereat,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Upon a milk-white steed, a lady doth appear:</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">By all she's welcomed lustily in one tremendous cheer:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With rings of brilliant lustre her fingers are bedecked,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And bells upon her palfrey hung to give the whole effect."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>A noble cavalier rode beside her, and the result has been</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"That even in the present time the custom's not forgot;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But few there are who know the tale connected with the spot,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Though to each baby in the land the nursery-rhymes are told</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">About the lady robed in white and Banbury Cross of old."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 459px;"> +<a name="p160" id="p160"></a> +<img src="images/p160.jpg" width="459" height="500" alt="BERKS AND WILTS CANAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BERKS AND WILTS CANAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Broughton Castle is a fine castellated mansion a short distance +south-west of Banbury. It dates from the Elizabethan era, and its owner, +Viscount Saye and Sele, in Charles I.'s reign, thinking that his +services were not sufficiently rewarded, took the side of Parliament, in +which his son represented Banbury. When the king dissolved Parliament, +it assembled clandestinely in Broughton Castle. Here the Parliamentary +leaders met in a room with thick walls, so that no sounds could escape. +Here also were raised the earliest troops for the Parliament, and the +"Blue-coats" of the Sayes were conspicuous at the battle of Edgehill, +which was fought only a few miles away. Immediately afterwards King +Charles besieged Broughton Castle, captured and plundered it. This +famous old building witnessed in this way the earliest steps that led to +the English Revolution, and it is kept in quite good preservation. +Subsequently, when Oliver Cromwell became the leader of the +Parliamentary party, he held his Parliament in Banbury at the Roebuck +Inn, a fine piece of architecture, with a great window that lights up +one of the best rooms in England of the earlier days of the Elizabethan +era. A low door leads from the courtyard to this noted council-chamber +where Cromwell held his Parliament, and it remains in much the same +condition as then.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> + +<p>Through Oxfordshire is laid out one of those picturesque water-ways of +the olden time—the Berks and Wilts Canal—which, though almost +superseded by the omnipresent railway, still exists to furnish pretty +scenery with its shady towing-paths and rustic swing-bridges. Almost the +only traffic that remains to this canal, which comes out upon the Thames +near Oxford, is carrying timber. The growth of English timber is slow, +but some is still produced by the process of thinning the woods so as to +make shapely trees, for otherwise the tall trunks would force themselves +up almost without spreading branches.</p> + + +<h3>WOODSTOCK AND BLENHEIM.</h3> + +<p><a name="p161" id="p161"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">CHAUCER'S HOUSE.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p161.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:100px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:340px; height:40px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:390px; height:420px;"> </div> + +<p>Not far away from Oxford is the manor of Woodstock, where "Fair +Rosamond's Bower" was built by King Henry II. This manor was an early +residence of the kings of England, and Henry I. built a palace there, +adding to it a vast park. Of this palace not a sign is now to be seen, +but two sycamores have been planted to mark the spot. The poet Chaucer +lived at Woodstock, and is supposed to have taken much of the +descriptive scenery of his <i>Dream</i> from the park. Edward the Black +Prince, son of Edward III., was born at Woodstock. Henry VII. enlarged +the palace, and put his name upon the principal gate; and this +gate-house was one of the prisons of the princess Elizabeth, where she +was detained by her sister, Queen Mary. Elizabeth is said to have +written with charcoal on a window-shutter of her apartment, in 1555, a +brief poem lamenting her imprisonment. Her room had an arched roof +formed of carved Irish oak and colored with blue and gold, and it was +preserved until taken down by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough. In the +Civil War the palace was besieged, and after surrender, unlike most +similar structures, escaped demo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>lition. Cromwell allotted it to three +persons, two of whom pulled down their portions for the sake of the +stone. Charles II. appointed the Earl of Rochester gentleman of the +bedchamber and comptroller of Woodstock Park, and it is said that he +here scribbled upon the door of the bedchamber of the king the +well-known mock epitaph:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here lies our sovereign lord, the king.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whose word no man relies on;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He never says a foolish thing,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Nor ever does a wise one."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>In Queen Anne's reign Woodstock was granted to John Churchill, Duke of +Marlborough, for his eminent military services. The condition of the +grant, which is still scrupulously performed, was that on August 2d in +every year he and his heirs should present to the reigning monarch at +Windsor Castle one stand of colors, with three fleurs-de-lis painted +thereon. The estate was named Blenheim, after the little village on the +Danube which was the scene of his greatest victory on August 2, 1704. +Ten years later, the duchess Sarah took down the remains of the old +palace of Woodstock, and Scott has woven its history into one of his +later novels. Hardly any trace remains of old Woodstock, and the only +ruin of interest is a curious chimney-shaft of the fourteenth century, +which a probably inaccurate tradition says was part of the residence of +the Black Prince.</p></div> + + +<p>Woodstock Park covers twenty-seven hundred acres, and is nearly twelve +miles in circuit, abounding with fine trees and having an undulating +surface, over which roam a large herd of deer and a number of kangaroos. +When the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> manor was granted to the Duke of Marlborough, Parliament voted +a sum of money to build him a palace "as a monument of his glorious +actions." The park is entered through a fine Corinthian gateway, built +by the duchess Sarah in memory of her husband the year after his death. +A pretty stream of water, the river Glyme, with a lake, winds through a +valley in front of the palace, and is crossed by a stately stone bridge +with a centre arch of one hundred feet span. Not far from this bridge +was Fair Rosamond's Bower, now marked by a wall; beyond the bridge, +standing on the lawn, is the Marlborough Column, a fluted Corinthian +pillar one hundred and thirty-four feet high, surmounted by the hero in +Roman dress and triumphal attitude. This monument to the great duke has +an account of his victories inscribed on one face of the pedestal, while +on the others are the acts of Parliament passed in his behalf, and an +abstract of the entail of his estates and honors upon the descendants of +his daughters. Parliament voted $2,500,000 to build Blenheim Palace, to +which the duke added $300,000 from his own resources. The duke died +seventeen years after the palace was begun, leaving it unfinished. We +are told that the trees in the park were planted according to the +position of the troops at Blenheim. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> architect of the palace was +John Vanbrugh, of whom the satirical epitaph was written:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Lie heavy on him, Earth, for he</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Laid many a heavy load on thee."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 486px;"> +<a name="p162" id="p162"></a> +<img src="images/p162.jpg" width="486" height="550" alt="OLD REMAINS AT WOODSTOCK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD REMAINS AT WOODSTOCK.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p163" id="p163"></a> +<img src="images/p163.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="BLENHEIM PALACE, FROM THE LAKE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BLENHEIM PALACE, FROM THE LAKE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The palace is a massive structure, with spacious portals and lofty +towers, and its principal front, which faces the north, extends three +hundred and forty-eight feet from wing to wing, with a portico and +flight of steps in the centre. The interior is very fine, with +magnificently-painted ceilings, tapestries, statuary, and a rare +collection of pictures. The tapestries represent Blenheim and other +battles, and there are one hundred and twenty copies of famous masters, +made by Teniers. A stately statue of Queen Anne stands in the library. +There are costly collections of enamels, plaques, and miniatures; on the +walls are huge paintings by Sir James Thornhill, one representing the +great duke, in a blue cuirass, kneeling before Britannia, clad in white +and holding a lance and wreath; Hercules and Mars stand by, and there +are emblem-bearing females and the usual paraphernalia. We are told that +Thornhill was paid for these at the rate of about six dollars per square +yard. The duchess Sarah also poses in the collection as Minerva, wearing +a yellow classic breastplate. Among other relics kept in the palace are +Oliver Cromwell's teapot, another teapot presented by the Duc de +Richelieu to Louis XIV., two bottles that belonged to Queen Anne, and +some Roman and Grecian pottery. The great hall, which has the battle of +Blenheim depicted on its ceiling, extends the entire height of the +building; the library is one hundred and eighty-three feet long; and in +the chapel, beneath a pompous marble monument, rest the great duke and +his proud duchess Sarah, and their two sons, who died in early years. +The pleasure-gardens extend over three hundred acres along the borders +of the lake and river, and are very attractive. They contain the Temple +of Health erected on the recovery of George III. from his illness, an +aviary, a cascade elaborately constructed of large masses of rock, a +fountain copied after one in Rome, and a temple of Diana. This great +estate was the reward of the soldier whose glories were sung by Addison +in his poem on the <i>Campaign</i>. Addison then lived in a garret up three +pair of stairs over a small shop in the Haymarket, London, whither went +the Chancellor of the Exchequer to get him to write the poem, and +afterwards gave him a place worth $1000 a year as a reward. The +Marlboroughs since have been almost too poor to keep up this magnificent +estate in its proper style, for the family of Spencer-Churchill, which +now holds the title, unlike most of the other great English houses, has +not been blessed with a princely private fortune. Not far from Woodstock +is Minster Lovel, near the village of Whitney. Some fragments of the +house remain, and it has its tale<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> of interest, like all these old +houses. Lord Lovel was one of the supporters of the impostor Simnel +against Henry VII., and his rebellion being defeated in the decisive +battle at Stoke in Nottinghamshire, Lord Lovel escaped by unfrequented +roads and arrived home at night. He was so disguised that he was only +known by a single servant, on whose fidelity he could rely. Before +daybreak he retired to a subterranean recess, of which this servant +retained the key, and here he remained several months in safe +concealment. The king confiscated the estate, however, and dispersed the +household, so that the voluntary prisoner perished from hunger. During +the last century, when this stately house was pulled down, the vault was +discovered, with Lord Lovel seated in a chair as he had died. So +completely had rubbish excluded the air that his dress, which was +described as superb, and a prayer-book lying before him on the table, +were entire, but soon after the admission of the air the body is said to +have fallen into dust.</p> + + +<h3>BICESTER AND EYNSHAM.</h3> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p166-1" id="p166-1"></a> +<img src="images/p166-1.jpg" width="600" height="458" alt="BICESTER MARKET." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BICESTER MARKET.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p165" id="p165"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 383px;"> +<img src="images/p165.jpg" width="383" height="450" alt="BICESTER PRIORY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BICESTER PRIORY.</span> +</div> +<p>A pleasant and old-fashioned town, not far away from Oxford, is +Bicester, whereof one part is known as the King's End and the other as +the Market End. Here is the famous Bicester Priory, founded in the +twelfth century through the influence of Thomas à Becket. It was +intended for a prior and eleven canons, in imitation of Christ and his +eleven disciples. The priory buildings remained for some time after the +dissolution of the religious houses, but they gradually disappeared, and +all that now exists is a small farm-house about forty feet long which +formed part of the boundary-wall of the priory, and is supposed to have +been a lodge for the accommodation of travellers. In the garden was a +well of never-failing water held in high repute by pilgrims, and which +now supplies a fish-pond. The priory and its estates have passed in +regular succession through females from its founder, Gilbert Basset, to +the Stanleys, and it is now one of the possessions of the Earl of Derby. +Bicester is an excellent specimen of an ancient English market-town, and +its curious block of market-buildings, occupied by at least twenty-five +tenements, stands alone and clear in the marketplace. There are +antique gables, one of the most youthful of which bears the date of +1698. On the top is a promenade used by the occupants in summer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> +weather. In the neighboring village of Eynsham is said to be the stone +coffin that once held Fair Rosamond's remains, but it has another +occupant, one Alderman Fletcher having also been buried in it in 1826. +Eynsham once had an abbey, of which still survives the shaft of a stone +cross quaintly carved with the figures of saints. It is a relic probably +of the thirteenth century, but nothing remains of the abbey beyond a few +stones that may have belonged to it. It was near Eynsham, not very long +ago, that a strange dark-green water-plant first made its appearance in +the Thames, and spread so rapidly that it soon quite choked the +navigation of the river, and from there soon extended almost all over +the kingdom. The meadows and the rivers became practically all alike, a +green expanse, in which from an eminence it was difficult to tell where +the water-courses lay. This plant was called the "American weed," the +allegation being that it came over in a cargo of timber from the St. +Lawrence. It caused great consternation, but just when matters looked +almost hopeless it gradually withered and died, bringing the navigation +welcome relief.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;"> +<a name="p166" id="p166"></a> +<img src="images/p166-2.jpg" width="374" height="500" alt="CROSS AT EYNSHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CROSS AT EYNSHAM.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>ABINGDON AND RADLEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;"> +<a name="p167" id="p167"></a> +<img src="images/p167.jpg" width="361" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO ABINGDON ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO ABINGDON ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Crossing over into Berkshire, we find, a short distance south of Oxford, +on the bank of the Thames, the ruins of the once extensive and +magnificent Abingdon Abbey, founded in the seventh century. It was here +that Henry, the son of William the Conqueror, was educated and gained +his appellation of Beauclerc. The gatehouse still remains, and is at +present devoted to the use of fire-engines, but there is not much else +remaining of the abbey save a remarkable chimney and fireplace and some +fragments of walls. We are told that the Saxons founded this abbey, and +that the Danes destroyed it, while King Alfred deprived the monks of +their possessions, but his grandson Ædred restored them. The abbey was +then built, and became afterwards richly endowed. For six centuries it +was one of the great religious houses of this part of England; and the +Benedictines, true to their creed, toiled every day in the fields as +well as prayed in the church. They began the day by religious services; +then assembled in the chapter-house, where each was allotted his task +and tools, and after a brief prayer they silently marched out in double +file to the fields. From Easter until October they were thus occupied +from six in the morning until ten o'clock, and sometimes until noon. +Thus they promoted thrift, and as their settlement extended it became +the centre of a rich agricultural colony, for they often, as their lands +expanded, let them out to farmers. A short distance from Abingdon is +Radley, which was formerly the manor of the abbey, and contains a +beautiful little church, wealthy in its stores of rich woodwork and +stained glass; it stands in the middle of the woods in a charming +situation, with picturesque elm trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> overhanging the old Tudor +building. Radley House is now a training-school for Oxford, and it has a +swimming-school attached, in which have been prepared several of the +most famous Oxford oarsmen, swimming being here regarded as a necessary +preliminary to boating. Near by is Bagley Wood, the delicious resort of +the Oxonians which Dr. Arnold loved so well. The village of Sunningwell, +not far from Radley, also has a church, and before its altar is the +grave of Dean Fell, once its rector, who died of grief on hearing of the +execution of Charles I. From the tower of this church Friar Bacon, the +hero of the story of the brazen head, is said to have made astronomical +observations: this renowned friar, Roger Bacon, has come down to us as +the most learned man that Oxford ever produced. Bacon's Study was near +the Folly Bridge, across the Thames on the road to Oxford, and it +survived until 1779, when it was taken down. Among the many legends told +of Bacon is one that he used such skill and magic in building the tower +containing this study that it would have fallen on the head of any one +more learned than himself who might pass under it. Hence, freshmen on +their arrival at Oxford are carefully warned not to walk too near the +Friar's Tower. Bacon overcame the greatest obstacles in the pursuit of +knowledge; he spent all his own money and all that he could borrow in +getting books and instruments, and then, renouncing the world, he became +a mendicant monk of the order of St. Francis. His <i>Opus Majus</i>—to +publish which he and his friends pawned their goods—was an epitome of +all the knowledge of his time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;"> +<a name="p168" id="p168"></a> +<img src="images/p168.jpg" width="377" height="500" alt="RADLEY CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RADLEY CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>Other famous men came also from Abingdon. Edmund Rich, who did so much +to raise the character of Oxford in its earlier days, was born there +about the year 1200; his parents were very poor, and his father sought +refuge in Eynsham Abbey. We are told that his mother was too poor to +furnish young Rich "with any other outfit than his horsehair shirt, +which she made him prom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>ise to wear every Wednesday, and which probably +had been the cause of his father's retirement from their humble abode." +Rich went from Eynsham to Oxford, and soon became its most conspicuous +scholar; then he steadily advanced until he died the Archbishop of +Canterbury. Chief-Justice Holt, who reformed the legal procedure of +England, was also a native of Abingdon; he admitted prisoners to some +rights, protected defendants in suits, and had the irons stricken off +the accused when brought into court, for in those days of the cruel rule +of Judge Jeffreys the defendant was always considered guilty until +adjudged innocent. Holt originated the aphorism that "slaves cannot +breathe in England:" this was in the famous Somerset case, where a slave +was sold and the vendor sued for his money, laying the issues at +Mary-le-Bow in London, and describing the negro as "there sold and +delivered." The chief-justice said that the action was not maintainable, +as the status of slavery did not exist in England. If, however, the +claim had been laid in Virginia, he said he would have been obliged to +allow it; so that the decision was practically on technical grounds. +Lord Campbell sums up Holt's merits as a judge by saying that he was not +a statesman like Clarendon, or a philosopher like Bacon, or an orator +like Mansfield, yet his name is held in equal veneration with theirs, +and some think him the most venerated judge that ever was chief-justice. +There is a really good story told of him by Lord Campbell. In his +younger days Holt was travelling in Oxfordshire, and stopped at an inn +where the landlady's daughter had an illness inducing fits. She appealed +to him, and he promised to work a cure: which he did by writing some +Greek words on a piece of parchment and telling her to let her daughter +wear the charm around her neck. Partly from the fact that the malady had +spent itself, and possibly also from the effect of her imagination, the +girl entirely recovered. Years rolled on and he became the lord +chief-justice, when one day a withered old woman was brought before the +assizes for being a witch, and it was proven that she pretended to cure +all manner of cattle diseases, and with a charm that she kept carefully +wrapped in a bundle of rags. The woman told how the charm many years +before had cured her daughter, and when it was unfolded and handed to +the judge he remembered the circumstance, recognized his talisman, and +ordered her release.</p> + + +<h3>CAVERSHAM AND READING ABBEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;"> +<a name="p170" id="p170"></a> +<img src="images/p170.jpg" width="408" height="600" alt="THE THAMES AT CLIFTON-HAMPDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE THAMES AT CLIFTON-HAMPDEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>As we continue the journey down the Thames the shores on either hand +seem cultivated like gardens, with trim hedgerows dividing them, pretty +villages, cottages gay with flowers and evergreens, spires rising among +the trees; and the bewitching scene reminds us of Ralph Waldo Emerson's +tribute to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> English landscape, that "it seems to be finished with +the pencil instead of the plough." The surface of the river is broken by +numerous little "aits" or islands. We pass the little old house and the +venerable church embosomed in the rural beauties of Clifton-Hampden. We +pass Wallingford and Goring, and come to Pangbourne and Whitchurch, +where the little river Pang flows in between green hills. Each village +has the virtue that Dr. Johnson extolled when he said that "the finest +landscape in the world is improved by a good inn in the foreground." +Then we come to Mapledurham and Purley, where Warren Hastings lived, and +finally halt at Caversham, known as the port of Reading. Here the Thames +widens, and here in the olden time was the little chapel with a statue +of the Virgin known as the "Lady of Caversham," which was reputed to +have wrought many miracles and was the shrine for troops of pilgrims. In +Cromwell's day the chapel was pulled down, and the statue, which was +plated over with silver, was boxed up and sent to the Lord Protector in +London. They also had here many famous relics, among them the +spear-head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> that pierced the Saviour's side, which had been brought +there by a "one-winged angel." The officer who destroyed the chapel, in +writing a report of the destruction to Cromwell, expressed his regret at +having missed among the relics "a piece of the holy halter Judas was +hanged withal." Lord Cadogan subsequently built Caversham House for his +residence. Reading, which is the county-town of Berkshire, is not far +away from Caversham, and is now a thriving manufacturing city, its most +interesting relic being the hall of the ancient Reading Abbey, built +seven hundred years ago. It was one of the wealthiest in the kingdom, +and several parliaments sat in the hall. The ruins, still carefully +preserved, show its extent and fine Norman architecture.</p> + +<p>The Thames flows on past Sonning, where the Kennet joins it, a stream +"for silver eels renowned," as Pope tells us. Then the Lodden comes in +from the south, and we enter the fine expanse of Henley Reach, famous +for boat-racing. It is a beautiful sheet of water, though the +university race is now rowed farther down the river and nearer London, +at Putney. Our boat now drifts with the stream through one of the most +beautiful portions of the famous river, past Medmenham Abbey and +Cliefden to Maidenhead. Here for about ten miles is a succession of +beauties of scenery over wood and cliff and water that for tranquil +loveliness cannot be surpassed anywhere. Who has not heard of the +charming rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden, with the Duke of +Westminster's mansion standing on their pinnacle?</p> + + +<h3>THE VICAR OF BRAY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p171" id="p171"></a> +<img src="images/p171.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="BRAY CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRAY CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>We come to Maidenhead and Taplow, with Brunel's masterpiece of +bridge-building connecting them, its elliptical brick arches being the +broadest of their kind in the kingdom. Below this, as beauties decrease, +we are compensated by scenes of greater historical interest. Near +Maidenhead is Bisham Abbey, the most interesting house in Berkshire. It +was originally a convent, and here lived Sir Thomas Russel, who at one +time was the custodian of the princess Elizabeth. He treated her so well +that she warmly welcomed him at court after becoming queen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> + +<p>Bisham is a favorite scene for artists to sketch. Bray Church, where +officiated the famous "Vicar of Bray," Symond Symonds, is below +Maidenhead. This lively and politic vicar lived in the troubled times of +King Henry VIII., Edward VI., Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth. Having +seen martyrs burnt at Windsor, but two miles off, he found the fires too +hot for his tender temper, and therefore changed his religion whenever +events changed his sovereign. When taxed with being a religious +changeling, his shrewd answer was, "Not so, for I always keep my +principle, which is this—to live and to die the Vicar of Bray." The old +church, nestling among the trees, is attractive, and we are told that an +ancient copy of <i>Fox's Book of Martyrs</i>, which was chained to the +reading-desk in Queen Elizabeth's time, is still preserved here for the +edification of the faithful.</p> + + +<h3>ETON COLLEGE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p173" id="p173"></a> +<img src="images/p173.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="1. ETON COLLEGE FROM THE PLAYING FIELDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">1. ETON COLLEGE FROM THE PLAYING FIELDS. +<br />2. THE CRICKET-GROUND.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Soon the famous Eton College comes into view on the northern bank of the +river—an institution dear to the memory of many English schoolboys. The +village consists of a long, narrow street which is extended across an +iron bridge to Windsor, on the southern bank of the Thames. Henry VI. +founded the "College of the Blessed Mary of Eton beside Windsor" as +early as 1440. The older parts of the buildings are of red brick, with +stone dressings and quaint, highly ornamental chimneys, and they are +clustered around two quadrangles. Here are the Lower and Upper Schools +and the Long Chamber. About thirty-five years ago fine new buildings +were erected in similar style to the old buildings, which provide a +beautiful chapel, schools, and library (though books are said to be +scarce there), and extensive dormitories. Adjoining them to the +north-east are the Playing Fields on the broad green meadows along the +river's edge, with noble elms shading them. In the Upper School of the +ancient structure high wooden panelling covers the lower part of the +walls, deeply scarred with the names of generations of Eton boys crowded +closely together. In earlier times all used to cut their names in the +wood, but now this sculpturing is only permitted to those who attain a +certain position and leave without dishonor. Thus the panelling has +become a great memorial tablet, and above it, upon brackets, are busts +of some of the more eminent Etonians, including the Duke of Wellington, +Pitt, Fox, Hallam, Fielding, and Gray. In the library are kept those +instruments of chastisement which are always considered a part of +schoolboy training, though a cupboard hides them from view—all but the +block whereon the victim kneels preliminary to punishment. More than +once have the uproarious boys made successful raids and destroyed this +block or carried it off as a trophy. But vigorous switching was more a +habit at Eton in former days than it is now. Of Head-master Keate,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> who +was a famous flogger a half century ago, and would frequently practise +on a score of boys at one <i>séance</i>, the scholars made a calculation to +prove that he spent twice as much time in chastisement as in church, and +it is recorded that he once flogged an entire division of eighty boys +without an intermission. On another occasion he flogged, by mistake, a +party who had been sent him for confirmation. Tall stories are also told +of Eton flogging and "rug-riding"—the latter being a process whereby a +heavy boy was dragged on a rug over the floors to polish them. Down to +1840 the Eton dinners consisted entirely of mutton, with cold mutton +served up for supper, but this regulation diet is now varied with an +occasional service of beef and other courses. Games are no +inconsiderable part of the English schoolboy's education, and the Duke +of Wellington said that in the "Playing Fields" of Eton the battle of +Waterloo was won. These fields, "where all unconscious of their doom the +little victims play," contain one of the finest cricket-grounds in +England. The boys divide themselves into "dry bobs" and "wet bobs," the +former devoted to cricket and the latter to boating. The procession of +the boats is the great feature of June 4th, the "Speech Day." Of late +years the Eton volunteer corps has attained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> great proficiency, being a +battalion of over three hundred of the larger boys. This famous college +is one of the preparatory schools for the universities. It is a world in +miniature, where the boy finds his own level, and is taught lessons of +endurance, patience, self-control, and independence which stand him in +good service throughout after-life.</p> + + +<h3>WINDSOR CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p174-1" id="p174-1"></a> +<img src="images/p174.jpg" width="650" height="482" alt="WINDSOR, FROM THE BROCAS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WINDSOR, FROM THE BROCAS.</span> +</div> + +<p>Across the Thames, on the southern bank, the antique and noble towers of +Windsor Castle now rise high above the horizon. This is the sovereign's +rural court, and is probably the best known by the world of all the +English castles. The name is given various derivations: some ascribe it +to the river's winding course; others to "Wind us over," in allusion to +a rope-ferry there in ancient times; others to "Wind is sore," as the +castle stands high and open to the weather. From the Saxon days Windsor +has been a fortress, but the present castle owes its beginning to Edward +III., who was born at Windsor and built its earliest parts, commencing +with the great Round Tower in 1315. The ransoms of two captive kings, +John of France and David of Scotland, paid for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> two higher wards. It +was at Windsor that King Edward instituted the Order of the Garter, +which is the highest British order of knighthood. Being impressed with +the charms of Alice, Countess of Salisbury, but she resisting his +advances, out of the gallantries of their coquetry came the circumstance +of the king's picking up her garter dropped at a ball and presenting it +to her. Some of the nobles smiled at this, which the king noticing, +said, "Honi soit qui mal y pense" ("Evil be to him who evil thinks"), +adding that shortly they would see that garter advanced to such high +renown as to be happy to wear it. Froissart, in giving the legend +telling of this institution of the Garter, says that it arose out of the +chivalrous self-denial that leads virtue to subdue passion. Henry VI. +was born at Windsor; Edward IV. added St. George's Chapel to the castle; +Henry VII. built the Tomb House, and Henry VIII. the gateway to the +Lower Ward; Queen Elizabeth added the gallery of the north terrace; and +in Charles II.'s reign the fortress, which it had been until that time, +was converted into a sort of French palace. Thus it remained until +George IV., in 1824, thoroughly restored it at a cost of $7,500,000. The +great gateways are known as Henry VIII.'s, St. George's, and King George +IV.'s, while within is the Norman or Queen Elizabeth's Gate. The Round +Tower or Keep was built for the assemblage of a fraternity of knights +which King Edward intended to model after King Arthur's "Knights of the +Round Table," but the project was abandoned after the institution of the +Order of the Garter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="p175" id="p175"></a> +<img src="images/p175.jpg" width="420" height="600" alt="ROUND TOWER, WEST END." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROUND TOWER, WEST END.<br /> + +(By permission of Messrs. Harper & Brothers.)</span> +</div> + +<p>The Round Tower stands upon an artificial mound, and what was formerly +its surrounding ditch is now a sunken garden. From its commanding +battlements twelve counties can be seen, and the Prince of Wales is +constable of this tower, as indeed of the whole castle. This fine old +keep was the castle-prison from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> the time of Edward III. to that of +Charles II. The poet-king, James I. of Scotland, captured when ten years +old by Henry IV., was the first prisoner of note. Here he fell in love +with Jane Beaufort, daughter of the Duke of Somerset, and he tells in a +quaint poem the romance which ended in her becoming his queen. Henry +Howard, Earl of Surrey, brought to the block by Henry VIII., was also +confined there, and he too lamented his captivity in poetry. From the +top of the keep the dome of St. Paul's in London can be seen. The castle +was mercilessly plundered in the Civil Wars, till Cromwell interfered +for its protection. In its present condition the castle has three grand +divisions in the palatial parts—the state apartments, looking north; +the queen's private apartments, looking east; and the visitors' +apartments, looking south. The south and east sides of the quadrangle +contain over three hundred and seventy rooms. Southward of the castle is +the Windsor Great Park, to which the "Long Walk," said to be the finest +avenue of the kind in Europe, runs in a straight line for three miles +from the principal entrance of the castle to the top of a commanding +eminence in the park called Snow Hill. Double rows of stately elms +border the "Long Walk" on either hand, and it terminates at the fine +bronze equestrian statue of George III., standing on the highest part of +Snow Hill.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p176" id="p176"></a> +<img src="images/p176.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="QUEEN'S ROOMS IN SOUTH-EAST TOWER, WINDSOR CASTLE. + +(By permission of Messrs. Harper & Brothers.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">QUEEN'S ROOMS IN SOUTH-EAST TOWER, WINDSOR CASTLE. + +<br />(By permission of Messrs. Harper & Brothers.)</span> +</div> + +<p>St. George's Chapel, a beautiful structure of the Perpendicular Gothic, +was begun four hundred years ago, and contains the tomb of Edward IV., +who built<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> it. In 1789, more than three hundred years after his +interment, the leaden coffin of the king was found in laying a new +pavement. The skeleton is said to have been seven feet long, and Horace +Walpole got a lock of the king's hair. Here also lie Henry VI., Henry +VIII., and Charles I. The latter's coffin was opened in 1813, and the +king's remains were found in fair preservation. The close companionship +of Henry VIII. and Charles in death is thus described by Byron:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By headless Charles see heartless Henry lies."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The tradition of "Herne the Hunter," which Shakespeare gives in the +<i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>, is said to be founded on the fact that Herne, +a keeper of Windsor Forest, having committed some offence, hanged +himself upon an oak tree. His ghost afterwards was to be seen, with +horns on its head, walking round about this oak in the neighborhood of +the castle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;"> +<a name="p177" id="p177"></a> +<img src="images/p177.jpg" width="298" height="500" alt="INTERIOR OF ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL. + +(By permission of Messrs. Harper & Brothers.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL.<br /> + +(By permission of Messrs. Harper & Brothers.)</span> +</div> + + +<h3>SOME RIVER SCENES.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p178" id="p178"></a> +<img src="images/p178.jpg" width="500" height="469" alt="MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND.</span> +</div> + +<p>Just below Windsor the Thames passes between Runnimede, the "Meadow of +Council," where the barons encamped, and Magna Charta Island, where King +John signed the great charter of English liberty. The river sweeps in a +tranquil bend around the wooded isle, where a pretty little cottage has +been built which is said to contain the very stone whereon the charter +was signed. The river Coln falls into the Thames, and "London Stone" +marks the entrance to Middlesex and the domain of the metropolis. We +pass Staines and Chertsey, where the poet Cowley lived, and then on the +right hand the river Wey comes in at Weymouth. Many villages are passed, +and at a bend in the Thames we come to the place where Cæsar with his +legions forded the river at Cowey Stakes, defeated Cassivelaunus, and +conquered Britain. In his <i>Com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>mentaries</i> Julius Cæsar writes that he +led his army to the Thames, which could be crossed on foot at one place +only, and there with difficulty. On arriving, he perceived great forces +of the enemy drawn up on the opposite bank, which was fortified by sharp +stakes set along the margin, a similar stockade being fixed in the bed +of the river and covered by the stream. These facts being ascertained +from prisoners and deserters, Cæsar sent the cavalry in front and +ordered the legions to follow immediately. The soldiers advanced with +such impetuosity, although up to their necks in the water, that the +Britons could not withstand the onset and fled. A couple of miles below, +at Hampton, Garrick lived in a mansion fronted by a rotunda with a +Grecian portico. We pass Hampton Court and Bushey Park, which revive +memories of Wolsey, Cromwell, and William III., and then on the opposite +bank see the two charming Dittons—"Thames" and "Long" Ditton—of which +Theodore Hook has written:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditton.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers some abler bard has writ on,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Despairing to transcend <i>his</i> powers, I'll <i>ditto</i> say for Ditton."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Then we pass Kingston, where several Saxon kings were crowned, and the +coronation-stone, marked with their names, it is said, still remains in +the market-place. Teddington Lock is the last upon the Thames, and a +mile below is Eel-Pie Island, lying off Twickenham, renowned for the +romance that surrounds its ancient ferry. Near here lived the eccentric +Horace Walpole, at Strawberry Hill, while in Twickenham Church is the +monument to the poet Pope, which states in its inscription that he would +not be buried in Westminster Abbey.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> Pope's villa no longer exists, and +only a relic of his famous grotto remains. The widening Thames, properly +named the Broadwater, now sweeps on to Richmond, and if that far-famed +hill is climbed, it discloses one of the finest river-views in the +world.</p> + + +<h3>LONDON.</h3> + +<p><a name="p180" id="p180"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 218px;"> +<img src="images/p180.jpg" width="218" height="650" alt="THE MONUMENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MONUMENT.</span> +</div> +<p>Here ends the romantic portion of the Thames. The beauty of Nature is no +longer present, being overtopped by the stir and roar of the great +Babel, for the metropolis has reached out and swallowed up the suburban +villages, although some of the picturesque scenes remain. Many bridges +span the river, which on either hand gradually transforms its +garden-bordered banks into the city buildings, and the Thames itself +bears on its bosom the valuable commerce that has chiefly made the great +capital. When King James I. threatened recalcitrant London with the +removal of his court to Oxford, the lord mayor sturdily yet +sarcastically replied, "May it please Your Majesty, of your grace, not +to take away the Thames too?" This river, so beautiful in its upper +loveliness, stands alone in the far-reaching influence of the commerce +that its lower waters bear. It has borne us from the Cotswolds to +London; while to properly describe the great city would take volumes in +itself. Without attempting such a task, we will only give a brief +summary of some of the more striking objects of interest that the great +British metropolis presents.</p> + + + +<p>The origin of the vast city whose population now approximates four +millions is obscure. It was a British settlement before the Romans came +to England, and its name of Llyn Dyn, the "City of the Lake," was +transformed by the conquerors into Londinium. When Cæsar crossed the +Thames he thought the settlement of too little importance for mention, +and it does not seem to have been occupied as a Roman station until a +century afterwards, and was not walled round until <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 306. The old +wall was about three miles in circumference, beginning near the present +site of the Tower, and some slight traces of it remain. The "London +Stone" on Cannon Street was the central stone or <i>milliarium</i> from which +distances were measured and the great Roman highways started. A worn +fragment of this stone, protected by iron bars, now stands against the +wall of St. Swithin's Church. When Jack Cade entered London, Shakespeare +tells us, he struck his sword on this stone and exclaimed, "Now is +Mortimer lord of this city." Wren caused it to be encased, for +protection, with a new stone hollowed for the purpose; it now stands +very near its original position. London in the sixth century became the +capital of the Saxon kingdom of Essex, and in the ninth century the +Danes destroyed it. King Alfred a few years afterwards rebuilt London, +but it stood barely seven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> years when it was burned. Finally, it was +again rebuilt, and again captured by the Danes, Canute setting himself +up as king there. Some relics of these Danes remain. St. Olaf was their +saint, and Tooley Street is but a corruption of his name. They had a +church and burial-place where now St. Clement-Danes stands awry on the +Strand—a church that is of interest not only on its own account, but +for the venerable antiquity it represents. The Saxons drove out the +Danes, and the Normans in turn conquered the Saxons, the Tower of London +coming down to us as a relic of William the Conqueror, who granted the +city the charter which is still extant. Henry I. gave it a new charter, +which is said to have been the model for <i>Magna Charta</i>. In the twelfth +century London attained the dignity of having a lord mayor. It sided +with the House of York in the Wars of the Roses, and in Elizabeth's +reign had about one hundred and fifty thousand population, being then +about two miles south of Westminster, with fields between, and having +the Tower standing apart from the city farther down the Thames. The +plague devastated it in 1665, carrying off sixty thousand persons, and +next year the Great Fire occurred, which destroyed five-sixths of the +city within the walls, and burned during four days. This fire began at +Pudding Lane, Monument Yard, and ended at Pie Corner, Giltspur Street. +To commemorate the calamity the Monument was erected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> on Fish Street +Hill, on the site of St. Margaret's Church, which was destroyed. It is a +fluted Doric column of Portland stone, erected by Wren at a cost of +$70,000, and is two hundred and two feet high. The inscriptions on the +pedestal record the destruction and restoration of the city; and down to +the year 1831 there was also an inscription untruthfully attributing the +fire to "the treachery and malice of the popish faction;" this has been +effaced, and to it Pope's couplet alluded:</p> + +<p><br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Where London's column, pointing to the skies,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Like a tall bully lifts its head and lies."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>A vase of flames forty two feet high, made of gilt bronze, crowns the +apex, up to which leads a winding staircase of three hundred and +forty-five steps. The structure has often been compared to a lighted +candle, and the balcony at the top, having been selected as a favorite +place for suicides to jump from, is now encaged with iron-work to +prevent this.</p> + +<p>London was rebuilt in four years after the Great Fire, and the first +stone of the new St. Paul's was laid in 1675, when the city had, with +the outlying parishes, a half million population. Its growth was slow +until after the American Revolution, and it began the present century +with about eight hundred thousand people. The past seventy years have +witnessed giant strides, and it has made astonishing progress in the +elegance of its parks and new streets and the growth of adornments and +improvements of all kinds. London has become, in fact, a world within +itself.</p> + + +<h3>ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p182" id="p182"></a> +<img src="images/p182.jpg" width="600" height="564" alt="ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Among a multitude of famous objects in London, three stand out boldly +prominent—St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower. St. +Paul's, the cathedral church of the bishops of London, is the finest +building in the Italian style in Great Britain; but, unfortunately, in +consequence of the nearness of the surrounding houses, no complete +general view is attainable. The first church was built there by King +Ethelbert in 610; it was destroyed by fire in the eleventh century, and +then old St. Paul's was built, suffering repeatedly from fire and +lightning, and being finally destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. It was +a large church, with a spire rising five hundred and twenty feet. The +money-lenders and small dealers plied their vocations in its middle +aisle, known as Paul's Walk, while tradespeople took possession of the +vaults and cloisters, a baker made a hole in a buttress for his +bakeoven, and several buildings were planted against the outer walls, +one being used as a theatre. The ruins were not disturbed for eight +years after the fire, when Wren began<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> rebuilding, the cathedral being +finished in thirty-five years. The architect, bishop, and master-mason +who laid the corner-stone were all living at the completion—a singular +circumstance. Wren got $1000 a year salary, and for this, said the +Duchess of Marlborough, he was content to be dragged up to the top in a +basket three or four times a week. The building cost $3,740,000, chiefly +raised by subscription. It is the fifth of the churches of Christendom +in size, being excelled by St. Peter's and the cathedrals at Florence, +Amiens, and Milan. In ground plan it is a Latin cross five hundred feet +long, with a transept of two hundred and fifty feet in length; the nave +and choir are one hundred and twenty-five feet wide and the sides one +hundred feet high. The majestic dome, which is the glory of the +cathedral, rises three hundred and sixty-five feet, and the surmounting +lantern carries a gilt copper ball and cross. The grand front towards +the west, facing Ludgate Hill, is approached by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> double flight of +steps from an area which contains a statue of Queen Anne. The portico is +in two divisions, with Corinthian columns supporting the pediment, which +bears a <i>bas-relief</i> of the conversion of St. Paul, and has a statue of +St. Paul at the apex, with statues of St. Peter at the sides. +Bell-towers rise from each side of the portico to a height of two +hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by domes. The large bell, "Great +Paul," which has just been placed in the tower, is the heaviest in +England, weighing nearly seventeen tons. Within the cathedral the cupola +has a diameter of one hundred and eight feet, and rises two hundred and +twenty-eight feet above the pavement; around it runs the famous +Whispering Gallery. Beneath the centre of the pavement lie the remains +of Lord Nelson in the crypt, for St. Paul's has been made the mausoleum +of British heroes on sea and land. Here, among others, are monuments to +Napier, Ponsonby, Cornwallis, Nelson, Howe, Collingwood, Pakenham, Sir +John Moore, Abercrombie, Rodney, St. Vincent, and also a noble porphyry +mausoleum for the Duke of Wellington. Some of the heroes of peace also +have monuments in St. Paul's, among them Dr. Johnson, Howard the +philanthropist, Sir Astley Cooper the surgeon, Bishop Middleton, Sir +Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Rennie the engineer, and also Wren. The memory +of the great architect is marked by a marble slab, with the inscription, +"Reader, do you ask his monument? Look around."</p> + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p183-1" id="p183-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p183-1/183-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p183-1.jpg" width="346" height="500" + alt="ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, SOUTH SIDE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p183-2.jpg" width="342" height="500" + alt="THE CHOIR—ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, SOUTH SIDE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE CHOIR—ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>The outside elevation of the cathedral is of two orders of +architecture—the lower, Corinthian, having windows with semicircular +headings, while the upper, Composite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> has niches corresponding to the +windows below. The entablature of each story is supported by coupled +pilasters, while the north and south walls are surmounted by +balustrades. Each arm of the transept is entered by an external +semicircular portico, reached by a lofty staircase. Above the dome is +the Golden Gallery, whence there is a grand view around London, if the +atmosphere permits, which it seldom does. Above the lantern is the ball, +weighing fifty-six hundred pounds; above this the cross, weighing +thirty-three hundred and sixty pounds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;"> +<img src="images/p184.jpg" width="449" height="600" alt="WELLINGTON MONUMENT, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WELLINGTON MONUMENT, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p185" id="p185"></a> +<img src="images/p185.jpg" width="600" height="564" alt="WESTMINSTER ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>This is the most renowned church in England, for in it her sovereigns +have been crowned, and many of them buried, from the days of Harold to +Victoria, and it contains the graves of her greatest men in +statesmanship, literature, science, and art. The abbey is the collegiate +church of St. Peter's, Westminster, and stands not far away from the +Thames, near Westminster Hall and the Parliament Houses. Twelve hundred +years ago its site was an island in the Thames known as Thorney Island, +and a church was commenced there by Sebert, king of Essex, but was not +completed until three centuries afterwards, in the reign of King Edgar, +when it was named the "minster west of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> St. Paul's," or Westminster. The +Danes destroyed it, and Edward the Confessor rebuilt it in the eleventh +century. Portions of this church remain, but the present abbey was begun +by Henry III. nearly seven hundred years ago, and it was not completed +until Edward III.'s time. Henry VII. removed the Lady Chapel, and built +the rich chapel at the east end which is named after him. Wren +ultimately made radical changes in it, and in 1714, after many changes, +the abbey finally assumed its present form and appearance. It has had a +great history, the coronations alone that it has witnessed being marked +events. They usually were followed by banquets in Westminster Hall, but +over $1,300,000 having been wasted on the display and banquet for George +IV., they were discontinued afterwards. At Queen Victoria's coronation +the crown was imposed in front of the altar before St. Edward's Chapel, +the entire nave, choir, and transepts being filled by spectators, and +the queen afterwards sitting upon a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> chair which, with the raised +platform bearing it, was covered with a cloth of gold. Here she received +the homage of her officers and the nobility. The ancient +coronation-chair, which is probably the greatest curiosity in the abbey, +is a most unpretentious and uncomfortable-looking old high-backed chair +with a hard wooden seat. Every sovereign of England has been crowned in +it since Edward I. There is a similar chair alongside it, the duplicate +having been made for the coronation of William and Mary, when two chairs +were necessary, as both king and queen were crowned and vested with +equal authority. Underneath the seat of the coronation-chair is fastened +the celebrated Stone of Scone, a dark-looking, old, rough, and +worn-edged rock about two feet square and six inches thick. All sorts of +legends are told of it, and it is said to have been a piece of Jacob's +Pillar. Edward I. brought it from Scotland, where many generations had +done it reverence, and the old chair was made to contain it in 1297. +These priceless accessories of the coronation ceremony, which will some +day do service for the Prince of Wales, are kept alongside the tomb of +Edward the Confessor, which for centuries has been the shrine of +pilgrims, and they are guarded by the graves of scores of England's +kings and queens and princes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> +<a name="p186" id="p186"></a> +<img src="images/p186.jpg" width="382" height="550" alt="CLOISTERS OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CLOISTERS OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;"> +<a name="p187" id="p187"></a> +<img src="images/p187.jpg" width="435" height="600" alt="WESTMINSTER ABBEY, INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WESTMINSTER ABBEY, INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR.</span> +</div> + +<p>The abbey's ground-plan has the form of a Latin cross, which is apsidal, +having radiating chapels. Henry VII.'s Chapel prolongs the building +eastward from the transept almost as much as the nave extends westward. +Cloisters adjoin the nave, and the western towers, built by Wren, rise +two hundred and twenty-five feet, with a grand window beneath them. The +church is five hundred and thirty feet long. The nave is one hundred and +sixty-six feet long and one hundred and two feet high; the choir, one +hundred and fifty-five long; the transept, two hundred and three feet +long, and on the south arm one hundred and sixty-five feet high. A great +rose-window, thirty feet in diameter, is in the north end of the +transept, with a fine portico, beneath which is the beautiful gateway of +the abbey. In the interior the height of the roof is remarkable, and +also the vast number of monuments, there being hundreds of them. +Magnificent woodwork<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> in carving and tracery adorns the choir, and its +mosaic pavement comes down to us from the thirteenth century, the stones +and workmen to construct it having been brought from Rome. The fine +stained-glass windows are chiefly modern. But the grand contemplation in +Westminster Abbey is the graves of the famous dead that have been +gathering there for nearly eight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> centuries. No temple in the world can +present anything like it. Wordsworth has written:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 7.5em;">——"Be mine in hours of fear</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or grovelling thought to find a refuge here,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or through the aisles of Westminster to roam,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where bubbles burst, and folly's dancing foam</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Melts if it cross the threshold—where the wreath</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of awestruck wisdom droops."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p188.jpg" width="650" height="621" alt="KING HENRY VII.'S CHAPEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KING HENRY VII.'S CHAPEL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Of the nine chapels surrounding the east end of the abbey, the most +interesting are those of Edward the Confessor, beyond the altar, and of +Henry VII., at the extreme eastern end. The shrine of King Edward above +referred to occupies the centre of his chapel, and was formerly richly +inlaid with mosaics and precious stones, which, however, have been +carried off. Henry VII.'s Chapel is a fine specimen of the architecture +of his time, and the monuments<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> of Queens Elizabeth and Mary of Scotland +are in the north and south aisles. In the south transept is the Poets' +Corner, with monuments to all the great poets, and here, as well as in +nave and choir and the north transept, are monuments of hundreds of +illustrious Englishmen. In making these burials there is a sort of +method observed. Chaucer's interment in the Poets' Corner in 1400 led +the south transept to be devoted to literary men. The north transept is +devoted to statesmen, the first distinguished burial there being the +elder Pitt in 1778. The organ is on the north side of the nave, and here +the eminent musicians repose. In the side chapels the chief nobles are +buried, and in the chancel and its adjoining chapels the sovereigns. +Isaac Newton in 1727 was the first scientist buried in the nave, and +that part has since been devoted to scientific men and philanthropists. +Probably the finest tomb in the abbey is that of the elder Pitt, which +bears the inscription, "Erected by the King and Parliament as a +testimony to the virtues and ability of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, +during whose administration, in the reigns of George II. and George +III., Divine Providence exalted Great Britain to a height of prosperity +and glory unknown to any former age." One of the finest of the +stained-glass windows in the nave is the double memorial window in +memory of the poets Herbert and Cowper, erected by an American, George +W. Childs. George III. and the British sovereigns since his reign have +their tombs at Windsor, preferring that noble castle for their last +resting-place.</p> + +<p>Upon the east side of the abbey is St. Margaret's, the special church of +the House of Commons. Its east window contains the celebrated +stained-glass representation of the Crucifixion, painted in Holland, +which General Monk buried to keep the Puritans from destroying. Sir +Walter Raleigh is entombed here, and an American subscription has placed +a stained-glass window in the church to his memory, inscribed with these +lines by James Russell Lowell:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The New World's sons, from England's breasts we drew</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Such milk as bids remember whence we came.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Proud of her past, wherefrom our present grew,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">This window we inscribe with Raleigh's name."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<h3>THE TOWER OF LONDON.</h3> + +<p>On the northern bank of the Thames, standing in a somewhat elevated +position a short distance east of the ancient city-walls, is the +collection of buildings known as the Tower. The enclosure covers about +twelve acres, encircled by a moat now drained, and a battlemented wall +from which towers rise at intervals. Within is another line of walls +with towers, called the Inner Ballium, having various buildings +interspersed. In the enclosed space, rising high above<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> all its +surroundings, is the great square White Tower, which was the keep of the +old fortress. Tradition assigns a very early date to this stronghold, +but the written records do not go back earlier than William the +Conqueror, who built the White Tower about 1078. It was enlarged and +strengthened by subsequent kings, and Stephen kept his court there in +the twelfth century. The moat was made about 1190. Edward II.'s daughter +was born there, and was known as Joan of the Tower. Edward III. +imprisoned Kings David of Scotland and John of France there. Richard II. +in Wat Tyler's rebellion took refuge in the Tower with his court and +nobles, numbering six hundred persons, and in 1399 was imprisoned there +and deposed. Edward IV. kept a splendid court in the Tower, and Henry +VI., after being twice a prisoner there, died in the Tower in 1471. +There also was the Duke of Clarence drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine, +and the two youthful princes, Edward V. and his brother, were murdered +at the instance of Richard III. Henry VII. made the Tower often his +residence. Henry VIII. received there in state all his wives before +their marriages, and two of them, Anne Boleyn and Catharine Howard, were +beheaded there. Here the Protector Somerset, and afterwards Lady Jane +Grey, were beheaded. The princess Elizabeth was imprisoned in the Tower, +and James I. was the last English sovereign who lived there. The palace, +having become ruinous, was ultimately taken down. The Tower during the +eight hundred years it has existed has contained a legion of famous +prisoners, and within its precincts Chaucer, who held an office there in +Richard II.'s reign, composed his poem <i>The Testament of Love</i>, and Sir +Walter Raleigh wrote his <i>History of the World</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;"> +<a name="p191" id="p191"></a> +<img src="images/p191.jpg" width="434" height="650" alt="" title="Tower of london Views" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>The "Yeomen of the Guard," a corps of forty-eight warders, who are +meritorious soldiers, dressed in the uniform of Henry VIII.'s reign on +state occasions, and at other times wearing black velvet hats and +dark-blue tunics, have charge of the exhibition of the Tower. The +entrance is in a small building on the western side, where years ago the +lions were kept, though they have since been all sent to the London +Zoological Garden. From this originated the phrase "going to see the +lions." At the centre of the river-front is the "Traitor's Gate," +through which persons charged with high treason were formerly taken into +the Tower. It is a square building erected over the moat, and now +contains a steam pumping-engine. Opposite it is the Bloody Tower, where +the young princes were smothered and where Raleigh was confined. +Adjoining is the Wakefield Tower, with walls thirteen feet thick. +Passing through the Bloody Tower gateway to the interior enclosure, a +large number of curious guns are seen, and the Horse Armory at the base +of the White Tower is filled with specimens of ancient armor +artistically arranged. In this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> collection the systems of armor can be +traced from the time of Edward I. to that of James II., and there are +suits that were worn by several famous kings and warriors. Above, in +Queen Elizabeth's Armory, is more armor, and also trophies of Waterloo +and other battles, and a collection of every kind of weapon in the +Tower. There are also specimens of instruments of torture and many other +curiosities on exhibition.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p193" id="p193"></a> +<img src="images/p193.jpg" width="600" height="373" alt="THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER, ON TOWER GREEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER, ON TOWER GREEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>The White Tower, which has walls fourteen feet thick in some parts, +covers a space one hundred and sixteen by ninety-six feet, and is +ninety-two feet high, with turrets at the angles. Each floor is divided +into three rooms, with stone partitions seven feet thick. On the second +floor is St. John's Chapel, and on the third the council-chamber of the +early kings, with a dark, massive timber roof; in this chamber Richard +II. resigned his crown; it is now filled with a vast collection of arms. +The Salt Tower, which is at an angle of the enclosure, was formerly a +prison; and in another part of the grounds is the Jewel House, where the +crown jewels are kept; they are in a glass case, protected by an iron +cage, and the house was built for them in 1842. Queen Victoria's state +crown, made in 1838, after her coronation, is the chief. It consists of +diamonds, pearls, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds set in silver and +gold, and has a crimson velvet cap with carmine border, lined with white +silk. It contains the famous ruby given to Edward the Black Prince by +the King of Castile, and which is surrounded by diamonds forming a +Maltese cross. The jewels in this crown are one large ruby, one large +sapphire, sixteen other sapphires, eleven emeralds, four rubies, one +thousand three hundred and sixty-three brilliant diamonds, one thousand +two hundred and seventy-three rose diamonds, one hundred and forty-seven +table diamonds, and two hundred and seventy-seven pearls. Among the +other crowns is St. Edward's crown, of gold embellished with diamonds, +used at all coronations, when it is placed upon the sovereign's head by +the Archbishop of Canterbury. This crown was stolen from the Tower by +Blood in 1761. There are also the Prince of Wales' crown, the queen's +crown, the queen's diadem, St. Edward's Staff, four feet seven inches +long, made of beaten gold and surmounted by an orb said to contain part +of the true cross, and carried before the sovereign at coronation; the +royal sceptre (surmounted by a cross), which the archbishop places in +the sovereign's right hand at coronation; the rod of equity (surmounted +by a dove), which he places in the left hand; several other sceptres; +the pointless sword of Mercy, the swords of Justice, and the sacred +vessels used at coronation. Here is also the famous Koh-i-noor diamond, +the "Mountain of Light," which was taken at Lahore in India. The ancient +Martin or Jewel Tower, where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned, is near by; the +barracks are on the north side of the Tower, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> behind them are the +Brick and Bowyer Towers, in the former of which Lady Jane Grey was +imprisoned, and in the latter the Duke of Clarence was drowned; but only +the basements of the old towers remain. The Tower Chapel, or church of +St. Peter's, was used for the cemetery of the distinguished prisoners +who were beheaded there, and in its little graveyard lie scores of +headless corpses, as well as the remains of several constables of the +Tower. In front of it was the place of execution, marked by an oval of +dark stones. The Beauchamp Tower stands at the middle of the west side +of the fortress, built in the thirteenth century and used as a prison; +there are numerous inscriptions and devices on the walls made by the +prisoners. Here Lady Jane Grey's husband carved in antique letters +"Iane." In the Bell Tower, at the south-western angle, the princess +Elizabeth was confined, and in the present century it was the prison of +Sir Francis Burdett, committed for commenting in print on the +proceedings of the House of Commons. The Tower Subway is a tunnel +constructed recently under the Thames from Tower Hill to Tooley Street +for passenger traffic. The Duke of Wellington was constable of the Tower +at one time, and its barracks are sometimes occupied by as many as eight +thousand troops. This ancient fortress always has a profound interest +for visitors, and no part of it more than the Water-Gate, leading from +the Thames, the noted "Traitor's Gate," through which have gone so many +victims of despotism and tyranny—heroes who have passed</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"On through that gate, through which before</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Went Sydney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>THE LOLLARDS AND LAMBETH.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p194.jpg" width="600" height="584" alt="THE LOLLARDS' TOWER, LAMBETH PALACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LOLLARDS' TOWER, LAMBETH PALACE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Archbishop of Canterbury, the primate of England, who crowns the +sovereigns, has his palace at Lambeth, on the south side of the Thames, +opposite Westminster, and its most noted portion is the Lollards' Tower. +The Lollards, named from their low tone of singing at interments, were a +numerous sect exerting great influence in the fourteenth century. The +Church persecuted them, and many suffered death, and their prison was +the Lollards' Tower, built in 1435, adjoining the archiepiscopal palace. +This prison is reached by a narrow stairway, and at the entrance is a +small doorway barely sufficient for one person to pass at a time. The +palace itself was built in the days of the Tudors, and the gatehouse of +red brick in 1499. The chapel is Early English, its oldest portion built +in the thirteenth century. All the Archbishops of Canterbury since that +time have been consecrated there. There is a great hall and library, and +the history of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> this famous religious palace is most interesting. At the +red brick gatehouse the dole is distributed by the archbishop, as from +time immemorial, to the indigent parishioners. Thirty poor widows on +three days of the week each get a loaf, meat, and two and a half pence, +while soup is also given them and to other poor persons. The archbishops +maintain this charity carefully, and their office is the head of the +Anglican Church.</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p195-1" id="p195-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p195-1/195-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p195-1.jpg" width="230" height="600" + alt="ST. MARY-LE-BOW." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p195-2.jpg" width="293" height="600" + alt="ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. MARY-LE-BOW.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + +<p>Bow Church, or St. Mary-le-Bow on Cheapside, is one of the best known +churches of London. It is surmounted by one of the most admired of +Wren's spires, which is two hundred and twenty-five feet high. There is +a dragon upon the spire nearly nine feet long. It is the sure criterion +of a London Cockney to have been born within sound of "Bow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> Bells." A +church stood here in very early times, said to have been built upon +arches, from which is derived the name of the Ecclesiastical Court of +Arches, the supreme court of the province of Canterbury, a tribunal +first held in Bow Church. Another of Wren's noted churches is St. +Bride's, on Fleet Street, remarkable for its beautiful steeple, +originally two hundred and thirty-four feet high. It has been much +damaged by lightning. The east window of St. Bride's is a copy on +stained glass of Rubens' painting of "The Descent from the Cross." This +church contains several famous tombs.</p> + + +<h3>WHITEHALL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p196.jpg" width="650" height="422" alt="THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>We will now take a brief view of Westminster, the region of palaces, and +first of all pause at the most ancient and famous of them, Whitehall, of +which only the Banqueting House remains. This was originally the +residence of the Archbishops of York, and here lived Cardinal Wolsey in +great splendor until his downfall, when Henry VIII. took Whitehall for +his palace and made large additions to the buildings, entering it as a +residence with his queen, Anne Boleyn. The sovereigns of England lived +in Whitehall for nearly two centuries, and in Charles I.'s reign it +contained the finest picture-gallery in the kingdom. This unhappy king +was beheaded in front of the Banqueting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> House, being led to the +scaffold out of one of the windows. James II. left Whitehall when he +abandoned the kingdom, and accidental fires in the closing years of the +seventeenth century consumed the greater part of the buildings. The +Banqueting House, which is one hundred and eleven feet long and a fine +structure of Portland stone, is all that remains, and it is now used as +a royal chapel, where one of the queen's chaplains preaches every +Sunday. Rubens' paintings commemorating King James I. are still on the +ceiling.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;"> +<img src="images/p197.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL (BANQUETING-HALL), +WHITEHALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL (BANQUETING-HALL), +WHITEHALL.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p198" id="p198"></a><span class="caption">THE HORSE GURADS FROM THE PARADE GROUND</span></p> + + +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p198.jpg); height: 100%;" title="HORSE GUARDS FROM THE PARADE GROUND" > +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:720px; height:150px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:820px; height:50px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:1000px; height:200px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:450px; height:25px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:270px; height:80px;"> </div> + +<p>In the district of Whitehall is also the army headquarters and office of +the commander-in-chief, the Duke of Cambridge—now known popularly as +the "Horse Guards," because in front of it two mounted horsemen stand on +duty all day in horse-boxes on either side of the entrance. The clock +surmounting the building in its central tower is said to be the standard +timekeeper of London for the West End. A carriage-way leads through the +centre of the building to St. James Park, a route which only the royal +family are permitted to use. Not far away are the other government +offices—the Admiralty Building and also "Downing Street," where resides +the premier and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> where the secretaries of state have their offices and +the Cabinet meets. Here are the Treasury Building and the Foreign +Office, and from this spot England may be said to be ruled. In this +neighborhood also is Scotland Yard, the headquarters of the London +Metropolitan Police, where the chief commissioner sits and where lost +articles are restored to their owners when found in cabs or +omnibuses—an important branch of police duty. It obtained its name from +being the residence of the Scottish kings when they visited London.</p></div> + + + + +<h3>ST. JAMES PALACE.</h3> + +<p>When the palace in Whitehall was destroyed the sovereigns made their +residence chiefly at St. James Palace, which stands on the north side of +St. James Park. This building is more remarkable for its historical +associations than for its architecture. It was originally a leper's +hospital, but Henry VIII., obtaining possession of it, pulled down the +old buildings and laid out an extensive park, using it as a semi-rural +residence called the Manor House. Its gatehouse and turrets were built +for him from plans by Holbein. Queen Mary died in it, and in its chapel +Charles I. attended service on the morning of his execution, and we are +told that he walked from the palace through the park, guarded by a +regiment of troops, to Whitehall to be beheaded. Here lived General Monk +when he planned the Restoration, and William III. first received the +allegiance of the English nobles here in 1688, but it was not used +regularly for state<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> ceremonies until Whitehall was burned. From this +official use of St. James Palace comes the title of "The Court of St. +James." Queen Anne, the four Georges, and William III. resided in the +palace, and in its chapel Queen Victoria was married, but she only holds +court drawing-rooms and levees there, using Buckingham Palace for her +residence. Passing through the gateway into the quadrangle, the visitor +enters the Color Court, so called from the colors of the household +regiment on duty being placed there. The state apartments are on the +south front. The great sight of St. James is the queen's drawing-room in +the height of the season, when presentations are made at court. On such +occasions the "Yeomen of the Guard," a body instituted by Henry VII., +line the chamber, and the "Gentlemen-at-Arms," instituted by Henry +VIII., are also on duty, wearing a uniform of scarlet and gold and +carrying small battle-axes covered with crimson velvet. Each body has a +captain, who is a nobleman, these offices being highly prized and +usually changed with the ministry.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;"> +<img src="images/p199.jpg" width="363" height="548" alt="GATEWAY OF ST. JAMES PALACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF ST. JAMES PALACE.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>BUCKINGHAM PALACE.</h3> + +<p>We have been to the queen's country-home at Windsor, and will now visit +her town-house, Buckingham Palace, which is also in St. James Park. Here +stood a plain brick mansion, built in 1703 by the Duke of Buckingham, +and in which was gathered the famous library of George III., which is +now in the British Museum. The house was described as "dull, dowdy, and +decent," but in 1825 it was greatly enlarged and improved, and Queen +Victoria took possession of the new palace in 1837, and has lived there +ever since. Her increasing family necessitated the construction of a +large addition in 1846, and a few years afterwards the Marble Arch, +which till then formed the entrance, was moved from Buckingham Palace to +Hyde Park, and a fine ball-room construct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>ed instead. This palace +contains a gorgeously-decorated throne-room and a fine picture-gallery, +the grand staircase leading up to the state-apartments being of marble. +The gardens of Buckingham Palace cover about forty acres: in them are a +pavilion and an attractive chapel, the latter having been formerly a +conservatory. At the rear of the palace, concealed from view by a high +mound, are the queen's stables or mews, so called because the royal +stables were formerly built in a place used for keeping falcons. In +these stables is the gaudily-decorated state coach, built in 1762 at a +cost of $38,000. Marlborough House, the town-residence of the Prince of +Wales, adjoins St. James Palace, but is not very attractive. It was +originally built for the first Duke of Marlborough, who died in it, and +is said to have been designed by Wren, having afterwards been enlarged +when it became a royal residence.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p200.jpg" width="650" height="449" alt="BUCKINGHAM PALACE, GARDEN FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BUCKINGHAM PALACE, GARDEN FRONT.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>KENSINGTON PALACE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p201" id="p201"></a> +<img src="images/p201.jpg" width="650" height="472" alt="KENSINGTON PALACE, WEST FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KENSINGTON PALACE, WEST FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<p>Standing on the west side of the Kensington Gardens is the plain, +irregular red brick structure known as Kensington Palace, which was +originally Lord Chancellor Finch's house. William III bought it from his +grandson, and greatly enlarged it. Here died William and Mary, Queen +Anne, and George<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> II., and here Victoria was born. Perhaps the most +interesting recent event that Kensington Palace has witnessed was the +notification to this princess of the death of William IV. He died on the +night of June 19, 1837, and at two o'clock the next morning the +Archbishop of Canterbury and the lord chamberlain set out to announce +the event to the young sovereign. They reached Kensington Palace about +five o'clock, early, but in broad daylight, and they knocked and rang +and made a commotion for a considerable time before they could arouse +the porter at the gate. Being admitted, they were kept waiting in the +courtyard, and then, seeming to be forgotten by everybody, they turned +into a lower room and again rang and pounded. Servants appearing, they +desired that an attendant might be sent to inform the princess that they +requested an audience on business of importance. Then there was more +delay, and another ringing to learn the cause, which ultimately brought +the attendant, who stated that the princess was in such a sweet sleep +she could not venture to disturb her. Thoroughly vexed, they said, "We +are come to the queen on business of state, and even her sleep must give +way to that."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> This produced a speedy result, for, to prove that it was +not she who kept them waiting, Victoria in a few minutes came into the +room in a loose white nightgown and shawl, with her hair falling upon +her shoulders and her feet in slippers, shedding tears, but perfectly +collected. She immediately summoned her council at Kensington Palace, +but most of the summonses were not received by those to whom they were +sent till after the early hour fixed for the meeting. She sat at the +head of the table, and, as a lady who was then at court writes, "she +received first the homage of the Duke of Cumberland, who was not King of +Hanover when he knelt to her; the Duke of Sussex rose to perform the +same ceremony, but the queen with admirable grace stood up, and, +preventing him from kneeling, kissed him on the forehead. The crowd was +so great, the arrangements were so ill made, that my brothers told me +the scene of swearing allegiance to their young sovereign was more like +that of the bidding at an auction than anything else."</p> + + +<h3>THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 482px;"> +<a name="p203" id="p203"></a> +<img src="images/p203.jpg" width="482" height="600" alt="THE VICTORIA TOWER, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE VICTORIA TOWER, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The finest of all the public buildings of the British government in +London, the Houses of Parliament, are on the bank of the Thames in +Westminster, and are of modern construction. The old Parliament Houses +were burnt nearly fifty years ago, and Sir Charles Barry designed the +present magnificent palace, which covers nearly eight acres and cost +$20,000,000. The architecture is in the Tudor style, and the grand +façade stretches nine hundred and forty feet along a terrace fronting on +the Thames. It is richly decorated with statues of kings and queens and +heraldic devices, and has two pinnacled towers at each end and two in +the centre. At the northern end one of the finest bridges across the +Thames—the Westminster Bridge—is built, and here rises the Clock +Tower, forty feet square and three hundred and twenty feet high, copied +in great measure from a similar tower at Bruges. A splendid clock and +bells are in the tower, the largest bell, which strikes the hours, +weighing eight tons and the clock-dials being thirty feet in diameter. +The grandest feature of this palace, however, is the Victoria Tower, at +the south-western angle, eighty feet square and three hundred and forty +feet high. Here is the sovereign's entrance to the House of Peers, +through a magnificent archway sixty-five feet high and having inside the +porch statues of the patron saints of the three kingdoms—St. George, +St. Andrew, and St. Patrick—and one of Queen Victoria, between the +figures of Justice and Mercy. From the centre of the palace rises a +spire over the dome of the Central Hall three hundred feet high. In +constructing the palace the old Westminster Hall has been retained, so +that it forms a grand public entrance, leading through St. Stephen's +Porch to St. Stephen's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> Hall, which is ninety-five feet long and +fifty-six feet high, where statues have been placed of many of the great +statesmen and judges of England. From this a passage leads to the +Central Hall, an octagonal chamber seventy feet across and seventy-five +feet high, with a beautiful groined roof. Corridors adorned with +frescoes stretch north and south from this Central Hall to the House of +Commons and the House of Peers. The former is sixty-two feet long, and +constructed with especial attention to acoustics, but it only has seats +for a little over two-thirds of the membership of the House, and the +others must manage as they can. The Speaker's chair is at the north end, +and the ministers sit on his right hand and the opposition on the left. +Outside the House are the lobbies, where the members go on a division. +The interior of the House is plain, excepting the ceiling, which is +richly decorated. The House of Peers is most gorgeously ornamented, +having on either side six lofty stained-glass windows with portraits of +sovereigns, these windows being lighted at night from the outside. The +room is ninety-one feet long, and at each end has three frescoed +archways representing religious and allegorical subjects. Niches in the +walls contain statues of the barons who compelled King John to sign +Magna Charta. There are heraldic devices on the ceilings and walls, and +the throne stands at the southern end. The "Woolsack," where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> sits the +lord chancellor, who presides over the House, is a seat near the middle +of the room, covered with crimson cloth. When the sovereign comes to the +palace and enters the gateway at the Victoria Tower, she is ushered into +the Norman Porch, containing statues and frescoes representing the +Norman sovereigns, and then enters the Robing Room, splendidly decorated +and having frescoes representing the legends of King Arthur. When the +ceremony of robing is completed, she proceeds to the House of Peers +through the longest room in the palace, the Victoria Gallery, one +hundred and ten feet long and forty-five feet wide and high. Historical +frescoes adorn the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> walls and the ceiling is richly gilded. This gallery +leads to the Prince's Chamber, also splendidly decorated, and having two +doorways opening into the House of Peers, one on each side of the +throne. In this palace for six months in every year the British +Parliament meets.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p204" id="p204"></a> +<img src="images/p204.jpg" width="600" height="598" alt="INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>HYDE PARK.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p205" id="p205"></a> +<img src="images/p205.jpg" width="600" height="442" alt="THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK.</span> +</div> +<p> </p> +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p206" id="p206"></a> +<a name="p207" id="p207"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p206/207"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p206.jpg" width="413" height="600" + alt="THE ALBERT MEMORIAL." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p207.jpg" width="469" height="600" + alt="ST. BRIDE'S, FLEET STREET." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE ALBERT MEMORIAL.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE, NEW MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, +SOUTH KENSINGTON.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>When the Marble Arch was taken from Buckingham Palace, it was removed to +Hyde Park, of which it forms one of the chief entrances at Cumberland +Gate. This magnificent gate, which cost $400,000, leads into probably +the best known of the London parks, the ancient manor of Hyde. It was an +early resort of fashion, for the Puritans in their time complained of it +as the resort of "most shameful powdered-hair men and painted women." It +covers about three hundred and ninety acres, and has a pretty sheet of +water called the Serpentine. The fashionable drive is on the southern +side, and here also is the famous road for equestrians known as Rotten +Row, which stretches nearly a mile and a half. On a fine afternoon in +the season the display on these roads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> is grand. In Hyde Park are held +the great military reviews and the mass-meetings of the populace, who +occasionally display their discontent by battering down the railings. At +Hyde Park Corner is a fine entrance-gate, with the Green Park Gate +opposite, surmounted by the Wellington bronze equestrian statue. The +most magnificent decoration of Hyde Park is the Albert Memorial, +situated near the Prince's Gate on the southern side. The upper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> portion +is a cross, supported by three successive tiers of emblematic gilt +figures, and at the four angles are noble groups representing the four +quarters of the globe. This was the masterpiece of Sir Gilbert Scott, +and is considered the most splendid monument of modern times. It marks +the site of the Crystal Palace Exhibition of 1851, in which Prince +Albert took great interest: there are upon it one hundred and sixty-nine +life-size portrait figures of illustrious artists, composers, and poets, +while under the grand canopy in the centre is the seated figure of the +prince. Opposite is the Royal Albert Hall, and behind this the +magnificent buildings of the South Kensington Museum, which grew out of +the Exhibition of 1851, and the site for which was bought with the +surplus fund of that great display. This is a national museum for art +and manufactures allied to art. Its collections are becoming enormous +and of priceless value, and include many fine paintings, among them +Raphael's cartoons, with galleries of sculpture and antiquities and +museums of patent models. There are art-schools and libraries, and the +buildings, which have been constructing for several years, are of rare +architectural merit. The Royal Albert Hall is a vast amphitheatre of +great magnificence devoted to exhibitions of industry, art, and music. +It is of oval form, and its external frieze and cornice are modelled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +after the Elgin Marbles. Opposite it are the gardens of the +Horticultural Society.</p> + + +<h3>A VIEW IN THE POULTRY.</h3> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p208-2" id="p208-2"></a> +<img src="images/p208-2.jpg" width="550" height="245" alt="BANK OF ENGLAND." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BANK OF ENGLAND.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p208-1" id="p208-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p208-1.jpg" width="450" height="361" alt="ROYAL EXCHANGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROYAL EXCHANGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Going down into the heart of the old city of London, and standing in the +street called the Poultry, the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange +are seen over on the other side, with Threadneedle Street between them, +and Lombard Street on the right hand, the region that controls the +monetary affairs of the world. Turning round, the Mansion House is +behind the observer, this being the lord mayor's residence and the +head-quarters of the city government. The Royal Exchange has been thrice +built and twice burned—first in the great fire of 1666, and afterwards +in 1838. The present Exchange, costing $900,000, was opened in 1844, and +is three hundred and eight feet long, with a fine portico on the western +front ninety-six feet wide, and supported by twelve columns, each +forty-one feet high. Within is an open area surrounded by an arcade, +while at the rear is Lloyds, the underwriters' offices, where the +business of insuring ships is transacted in a hall ninety-eight feet +long and forty feet wide. Wellington's statue stands in front of the +Exchange, and in the middle of the central area is a statue of Queen +Victoria. The Bank of England, otherwise known as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> "Old Lady of +Threadneedle Street," covers a quadrangular space of about four acres, +with a street on each side. It is but one story high, and has no windows +on the outside, the architecture being unattractive. The interior is +well adapted for the bank offices, which are constructed around nine +courts. The bank has been built in bits, and gradually assumed its +present size and appearance. It was founded in 1691 by William Paterson, +but it did not remove to its present site until 1734. Its affairs are +controlled by a governor, deputy governor, and twenty-four directors, +and the bank shares of $500 par, paying about ten per cent. dividends +per annum, sell at about $1400. It regulates the discount rate, gauging +it so as to maintain its gold reserves, and it also keeps the coinage in +good order by weighing every coin that passes through the bank, and +casting out the light ones by an ingenious machine that will test +thirty-five thousand in a day. It also prints its own notes upon paper +containing its own water-mark, which is the chief reliance against +forgery. The bank transacts the government business in connection with +the British public debt of about $3,850,000,000, all in registered +stock, and requiring two hundred and fifty thousand separate accounts to +be kept. Its deposits aggregate at least $130,000,000, and its capital +is $72,765,000. The bank is the great British storehouse for gold, +keeping on deposit the reserves of the joint-stock banks and the private +bankers of London, and it will have in its vaults at one time eighty to +one hundred millions of dollars in gold in ingots, bullion, or coin, +this being the basis on which the entire banking system of England is +conducted. It keeps an accurate history of every bank-note that is +issued, redeeming each note that comes back into the bank in the course +of business, and keeping all the redeemed and cancelled notes. The +earliest notes were written with a pen, and from this they have been +improved until they have become the almost square white pieces of paper +of to-day, printed in bold German text, that are so well known, yet are +unlike any other bank-notes in existence. Around the large elliptical +table in the bank parlor the directors meet every Thursday to regulate +its affairs, and—not forgetting they are true Englishmen—eat a savory +dinner, the windows of the parlor looking out upon a little gem of a +garden in the very heart of London. The Mansion House, built in 1740, is +fronted by a Corinthian portico, with six fluted col<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>umns and a pediment +of allegorical sculpture. Within is the Egyptian Hall, where the lord +mayor fulfils what is generally regarded as his chief duty, the giving +of grand banquets. He can invite four hundred persons to the tables in +this spacious hall, which is ornamented by several statues by British +sculptors, over $40,000 having been expended for its ornamentation. The +lord mayor also has a ball-room and other apartments, including his +Venetian parlor and the justice room where he sits as a magistrate. From +the open space in front of the Mansion House diverge streets running to +all parts of London and the great bridges over the Thames.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p209" id="p209"></a> +<img src="images/p209.jpg" width="450" height="362" alt="MANSION HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MANSION HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<h3>THE INNS OF COURT.</h3> + +<p>The four Inns of Court in London have been described as the palladiums +of English liberty—the Inner Temple, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and +Gray's Inn. There are over three thousand barristers members of these +Inns, and the best known is probably Lincoln's Inn, which is named after +De Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who died in 1312, and had his house on its +site, his device, the lion rampant, being adopted by the Inn. The +ancient gatehouse, which opens from Chancery Lane, is nearly four +hundred years old. The Inn has an old hall dating from 1506, and also a +fine modern hall, the Newcastle House, one hundred and twenty feet long, +built in Tudor style, with stained-glass windows and having life-size +figures of several eminent members in canopied niches. Here is Hogarth's +celebrated picture of "Paul before Felix." The Inn has a valuable +library, and among its members has counted More, Hale, Selden, +Mansfield, and Hardwicke.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;"> +<a name="p210" id="p210"></a> +<img src="images/p210.jpg" width="404" height="600" alt="THE LAW COURTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LAW COURTS.</span> +</div> + +<p>Across Fleet Street, and between it and the Thames, is the Temple, a +lane dividing it into the Inner and the Middle Temple, while obstructing +Fleet Street<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> there was the old Temple Bar, one of the ancient city +gates, which has recently been removed. The name is derived from the +Knights Templar, who existed here seven centuries ago; and they +afterwards gave the site to certain law-students who wished to live in +the suburbs away from the noise of the city. Here in seclusion, for the +gates were locked at night, the gentlemen of these societies in a bygone +age were famous for the masques and revels given in their halls. Kings +and judges attended them, and many were the plays and songs and dances +that then enlivened the dull routine of the law. The Inner Temple has +for its device a winged horse, and the Middle Temple a lamb. Some +satirist has written of these—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Their clients may infer from thence</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">How just is their profession:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The lamb sets forth their innocence,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The horse their expedition."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Here is the old Templar Church of St. Mary, built in 1185 and enlarged +in 1240. Formerly, the lawyers waited for their clients in this ancient +church. During recent years England has erected magnificent buildings +for her law courts. The new Palace of Justice fronts about five hundred +feet on the Strand, near the site of Temple Bar, which was taken away +because it impeded the erection of the new courts, and they cover six +acres, with ample gardens back from the street, the wings extending +about five hundred feet northward around them. A fine clock-tower +surmounts the new courts. In this part of the Strand are many ancient +structures, above which the Palace of Justice grandly towers, and some +of them have quaint balconies overlooking the street.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;"> +<a name="p211" id="p211"></a> +<img src="images/p211.jpg" width="393" height="550" alt="SIR PAUL PINDAR'S HOUSE IN BISHOPSGATE STREET." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIR PAUL PINDAR'S HOUSE IN BISHOPSGATE STREET.</span> +</div> + +<p>While in old London the feasting that has had so much to do with the +municipal corporation cannot be forgotten, and on Bishopsgate Street we +find the scene of many of the famous public dinners, savory with +turtle-soup and whitebait—the London Tavern. Not far distant, and on +the same street, is Sir Paul Pindar's House, a quaint structure, now +falling into decay, that gives an excellent idea of mediæval domestic +architecture.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>THE BRITISH MUSEUM.</h3> + +<p>Fronting upon Great Russell Street, to which various smaller streets +lead northward from Oxford Street, is that vast treasure-house of +knowledge whose renown is world-wide, the British Museum. The buildings +and their courtyards cover seven acres, and have cost nearly +$5,000,000 to construct. The front is three hundred and seventy feet +long, the entrance being under a grand portico supported by rows of +columns forty-five feet high. This vast museum originated from a +provision in the will of Sir Hans Sloane in the last century, who had +made a valuable collection and directed that it be sold to the +government for $100,000. Parliament, accepting the offer, in 1753 +created the museum to take charge of this and some other collections. +The present site, then Montagu House, was selected for the museum, but +it was not until 1828 that the present buildings were begun, and they +have only recently been finished. The reading-room, the latest addition, +is the finest structure of its kind in the world, being a circular hall +one hundred and forty feet in diameter and covered with a dome one +hundred and six feet high. It cost $750,000, and its library is believed +to be the largest in the world, containing seven hundred thousand +volumes, and increasing at the rate of twenty thousand volumes annually. +Its collection of prints is also of rare value and vast extent, and by +far the finest in the world.</p> + + +<h3>SOME LONDON SCENES.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p212" id="p212"></a> +<img src="images/p212.jpg" width="650" height="234" alt="WATERLOO BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WATERLOO BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p213-1" id="p213-1"></a> +<a name="p213-2" id="p213-2"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p213-1/213-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p213-1.jpg" width="348" height="550" + alt="SCHOMBERG HOUSE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p213-2.jpg" width="365" height="550" + alt="STATUE OF SIDNEY HERBERT." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">SCHOMBERG HOUSE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STATUE OF SIDNEY HERBERT.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>Let us now take a brief glance at some well-known London sights. The two +great heroes who are commemorated in modern London are Wellington and +Nelson. Trafalgar Square commemorates Nelson's death and greatest +victory, the Nelson Column standing in the centre, with Landseer's +colossal lions<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> reposing at its base. Passing eastward along the Strand, +beyond Charing Cross and Somerset House, we come to Wellington Street, +which leads to Waterloo Bridge across the Thames. This admirable +structure, the masterpiece of John Rennie, cost $5,000,000, and was +opened on the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo in 1817. It is of +granite, and with the approaches nearly a half mile long, crossing the +river upon nine arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet span. +Passing westward from Trafalgar Square, we enter Pall Mall, perhaps the +most striking of the London streets in point of architecture. Here are +club-houses and theatres, statues and columns, and the street swarms +with historical associations. On the south side are the Reform and +Carlton Clubs, the headquarters respectively of the Liberal and +Conservative parties, and a little beyond, on the same side, the row of +buildings of all sizes and shapes making up the War Office. Among them +is a quaint old Queen-Anne mansion of brick, with a curious pediment and +having many windows. This is Schomberg House, shorn of one wing, but +still retained among so much that is grand around it. Also in Pall Mall +is Foley's celebrated statue of Sidney Herbert, one of the most +impressive in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> London—the head drooped sadly and reflectively, +indicating that it is the image of a conscientious war-minister, who, +overweighted with the responsibility of his office, was cut off +prematurely. Although not one of the greatest men of England, Herbert's +fame will be better preserved by his finer statue than that of many men +who have filled a much larger space in her history. Marlborough House +has an entrance on Pall Mall, and adjoining its gate is the curious and +elaborately decorated building of the Beaconsfield Club. Over the +doorway the semicircular cornice does duty for a balcony for the +drawing-room windows above. The doorway itself is an imposing archway +strangely cut into segments, one forming a window and the other the +door.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> +<a name="p214-1" id="p214-1"></a> +<img src="images/p214-1.jpg" width="237" height="500" alt="DOORWAY BEACONSFIELD CLUB." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOORWAY BEACONSFIELD CLUB.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p214-2" id="p214-2"></a> +<img src="images/p214-2.jpg" width="550" height="427" alt="CAVENDISH SQUARE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAVENDISH SQUARE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p215" id="p215"></a> +<img src="images/p215.jpg" width="600" height="442" alt="THE "BELL" AT EDMONTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "BELL" AT EDMONTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>London contains in the West End many squares surrounded by handsome +residences, among them probably the best known being Belgrave, Russell, +Bedford, Grosvenor, Hanover, and Cavendish Squares. Eaton Square is said +to be the largest of these, Grosvenor Square the most fashionable, and +Cavendish Square the most salubrious and best cultivated. The line of +streets leading by Oxford Street to the Marble Arch entrance to Hyde +Park is London's most fashionable route of city travel, and on Tottenham +Court Road, which starts northward from Oxford Street, is the "Bell Inn" +at Edmonton. It is not a very attractive house, but is interesting +because it was here that Johnny Gilpin and his worthy spouse should have +dined when that day of sad disasters came which Cowper has chronicled in +John Gilpin's famous ride. The old house has been much changed since +then, and is shorn of its balcony, but it has capacious gardens, and is +the resort to this day<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> of London holiday-makers. It is commonly known +as "Gilpin's Bell," and a painting of the ride is proudly placed outside +the inn. Tottenham Court Road goes through Camden Town, and here at +Euston Square is the London terminus of the greatest railway in +England—the London and North-western Company. Large hotels adjoin the +station, and the Underground Railway comes into it alongside the +platform, thus giving easy access to all parts of the metropolis. This +railway is one of the wonders of the metropolis, and it has cost about +$3,250,000 per mile to construct. The original idea seems to have been +to connect the various stations of the railways leading out of town, and +to do this, and at the same time furnish means of rapid transit from the +heart of the city to the suburbs, the railway has been constructed in +the form of an irregular ellipse, running all around the city, yet kept +far within the built-up portions. It is a double track, with trains +running all around both ways, so that the passenger goes wherever he +wishes simply by following the circuit, while branch lines extend to the +West End beyond Paddington and Kensington. It is constructed not in a +continuous tunnel, for there are frequent open spaces, but on a general +level lower than that of the greater part of London, and the routes are +pursued without regard to the street-lines on the surface above, often +passing diagonally under blocks of houses. The construction has taxed +engineering skill to the utmost, for huge buildings have had to be +shored up, sewers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> diverted, and, at the stations, vast spaces burrowed +underground to get enough room. In this way London has solved its +rapid-transit problem, though it could be done only at enormous cost. +The metropolis, it will be seen, has no end of attractions, and for the +traveller's accommodation the ancient inns are rapidly giving place to +modern hotels. Among London's famous hostelries is the "Old Tabard Inn" +in the Borough, which will probably soon be swept away.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p216" id="p216"></a> +<img src="images/p216.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="THE "OLD TABARD INN."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "OLD TABARD INN."</span> +</div> + + +<h3>HOLLAND HOUSE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p217" id="p217"></a> +<img src="images/p217.jpg" width="650" height="438" alt="HOLLAND HOUSE, SOUTH SIDE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HOLLAND HOUSE, SOUTH SIDE.</span> +</div> + +<p>To describe London, as we said before, would fill a volume, but space +forbids lingering longer, and we will pass out of the metropolis, after +devoting brief attention to one of its historical mansions, the +well-known Holland House. This fine old building of the time of James I. +stands upon high ground in the western suburbs of London, and its +history is interwoven with several generations of arts, politics, and +literature. The house is of red brick, embellished with turrets, +gable-ends, and mullioned windows. As its park has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> already been partly +cut up for building-lots, the end of the celebrated mansion itself is +believed to be not far off. Built in 1607, it descended to the first +Earl of Holland, whence its name. Surviving the Civil Wars, when Fairfax +used it for his head-quarters, it is noted that plays were privately +performed here in Cromwell's time. In 1716, Addison married the dowager +Countess of Holland and Warwick, and the estate passed to him, and he +died at Holland House in 1719, having addressed to his stepson, the +dissolute Earl of Warwick, the solemn words, "I have sent for you that +you may see how a Christian can die." Two years later the young earl +himself died. In 1762 the estate was sold to Henry Vassall Fox, Baron +Holland, the famous Whig, who died there in 1774. It is related that +during his last illness George Selwyn called and left his card. Selwyn +had a fondness for seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord remarked, "If +Mr. Selwyn calls again, show him up: if I am alive I shall be delighted +to see him, and if I am dead he would like to see me." He composed his +own epitaph: "Here lies Henry Vassall Fox, Lord Holland, etc., who was +drowned while sitting in his elbow-chair." He died in his elbow-chair, +of water in the chest. Charles James Fox was his second son, and passed +his early years at Holland House. Near the mansion, on the Kensington +Road,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> was the Adam and Eve Inn, where it is said that Sheridan, on his +way to and from Holland House, regularly stopped for a dram, and thus +ran up a long bill, which Lord Holland ultimately paid.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 497px;"> + +<img src="images/p218-1.jpg" width="497" height="500" alt="DINING ROOM, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DINING ROOM, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p218-2" id="p218-2"></a> +<img src="images/p218-2.jpg" width="600" height="491" alt="THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The house, built like half the letter H, is of red brick with stone +finishings, and in the Elizabethan style, with Dutch gardens of a later +date. Much of the old-time decorations and furniture remains. The +library, a long gallery, forms the eastern wing, and contains a valuable +collection, including many manuscripts and autographs. There are fine +pictures and sculptures, with old clocks, vases, cabinets, and carvings, +and also a celebrated collection of miniatures. For over two centuries +it was the favorite resort of wits and beauties, painters and poets, +scholars, philosophers, and statesmen. Lord Brougham says that in the +time of Vassall, Lord Holland, it was the meeting-place of the Whig +party, his liberal hospitality being a great attract<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>ive force, and +Macaulay writes that it can boast a greater number of inmates +distinguished in political and literary history than any other private +dwelling in England. After Vassall's death his nephew maintained the +reputation of Holland House, dying in 1840, when the estates descended +to his only son, the late Lord Holland, who also kept up the character +of the mansion. But now, however, the glory of the famous old house is +slowly departing, and has chiefly become a fragrant memory.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 481px;"> +<a name="p219-1" id="p219-1"></a> +<img src="images/p219-1.jpg" width="481" height="600" alt="LIBRARY, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LIBRARY, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p219-2" id="p219-2"></a> +<img src="images/p219-2.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="ROGERS' SEAT IN THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROGERS' SEAT IN THE DUTCH GARDEN, HOLLAND HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Eastward from London is the great park which the queen in May opened +with much pomp as a breathing-ground for the masses of that +densely-populated region, the east end of the metropolis—Epping Forest. +This beautiful enclosure originally consisted of nine thousand acres, +but encroachments reduced it to about one-third that size. Reclamations +were made, however, and the park now opened covers five thousand six +hundred acres—a magnificent pleasure-ground.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>GREENWICH.</h3> + +<p>The river Thames, steadily gathering force after sweeping through London +past the docks, and receiving upon its capacious bosom the vast commerce +of all the world, encircles the Isle of Dogs (where Henry VIII. kept his +hounds) below the city, and at the southern extremity of the reach we +come to Greenwich. Here go many holiday-parties to the famous inns, +where they get the Greenwich fish-dinners and can look back at the great +city they have left. Here the ministry at the close of the session has +its annual whitebait dinner. Greenwich was the Roman Grenovicum and the +Saxon Green Town. Here encamped the Danes when they overran England in +the eleventh century, and their fleet was anchored in the Thames. It +became a royal residence in Edward I.'s time, and Henry IV. dated his +will at the manor of Greenwich. In 1437, Greenwich Castle was built +within a park, and its tower is now used for the Observatory. Humphrey, +Duke of Gloucester, then held Greenwich, and was the regent of England +during Henry VI.'s minority. He was assassinated by rivals in 1447, and +the manor reverted to the Crown. The palace was enlarged and +embellished, and Henry VIII. was born there in 1491. He greatly improved +the palace, and made it his favorite residence, Queen Elizabeth being +born there in 1533. King Edward VI. died at Greenwich in 1553, and +Elizabeth, enlarging the palace, kept a regular court there. It was her +favorite summer home, and the chronicler of the time, writing of a visit +to the place, says, in describing the ceremonial of Elizabeth's court, +that the presence-chamber was hung with rich tapestry, and the floor, +after the then fashion, was covered with rushes. At the door stood a +gentleman in velvet with a gold chain, who introduced persons of +distinction who came to wait upon the queen. A large number of high +officials waited for the queen to appear on her way to chapel. +Ultimately she came out, attended by a gorgeous escort. She is described +as sixty-five years old, very majestic, with an oblong face, fair but +wrinkled, small black, pleasant eyes, nose a little hooked, narrow lips, +and black teeth (caused by eating too much sugar). She wore false red +hair, and had a small crown on her head and rich pearl drops in her +ears, with a necklace of fine jewels falling upon her uncovered bosom. +Her air was stately, and her manner of speech mild and obliging. She +wore a white silk dress bordered with large pearls, and over it was a +black silk mantle embroidered with silver thread. Her long train was +borne by a marchioness. She spoke graciously to those whom she passed, +occasionally giving her right hand to a favored one to kiss. Whenever +she turned her face in going along everybody fell on their knees. The +ladies of the court following her were mostly dressed in white.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +Reaching the ante-chapel, petitions were presented her, she receiving +them graciously, which caused cries of "Long live Queen Elizabeth!" She +answered, "I thank you, my good people," and then went into the service.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p221.jpg" width="650" height="379" alt="GREENWICH HOSPITAL, FROM THE RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GREENWICH HOSPITAL, FROM THE RIVER.</span> +</div> + +<p>King James I. put a new front in the palace, and his queen laid the +foundation of the "House of Delight," which is now the central building +of the Naval Asylum. King Charles I. resided much at Greenwich, and +finished the "House of Delight," which was the most magnificently +furnished mansion then in England. King Charles II., finding the palace +decayed, for it had fallen into neglect during the Civil Wars, had it +taken down, and began the erection of a new palace, built of freestone. +In the time of William and Mary it became the Royal Naval Asylum, the +magnificent group of buildings now there being extensions of Charles +II.'s palace, while behind rises the Observatory, and beyond is the +foliage of the park. The asylum was opened in 1705, and consists of +quadrangular buildings enclosing a square. In the south-western building +is the Painted Hall, adorned with portraits of British naval heroes and +pictures of naval victories. The asylum supports about two thousand +seven hundred in-pensioners and six thousand out-pensioners, while it +has a school with eight hundred scholars. By a recent change the +in-pensioners are permitted to reside where they please, and it has +lately been converted into a medical hospital for wounded seamen. Its +income is about $750,000 yearly. The Greenwich Observatory, besides +being the centre whence longitude is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> reckoned, is also charged with the +regulation of time throughout the kingdom.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/p222.jpg" width="650" height="245" alt="LONDON, FROM GREENWICH PARK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LONDON, FROM GREENWICH PARK.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Thames, which at London Bridge is eight hundred feet wide, becomes +one thousand feet wide at Greenwich, and then it pursues its crooked +course between uninteresting shores past Woolwich dockyard, where it is +a quarter of a mile wide, and on to Gravesend, where the width is half a +mile; then it broadens into an estuary which is eighteen miles wide at +the mouth. Almost the only thing that relieves the dull prospect along +the lower Thames is Shooter's Hill, behind Woolwich, which rises four +hundred and twelve feet. Gravesend, twenty-six miles below London Bridge +by the river, is the outer boundary of the port of London, and is the +head-quarters of the Royal Thames Yacht Club. Its long piers are the +first landing-place of foreign vessels. Gravesend is the head-quarters +for shrimps, its fishermen taking them in vast numbers and London +consuming a prodigious quantity. This fishing and custom-house town, for +it is a combination of both, has its streets filled with "tea-and +shrimp-houses."</p> + + +<h3>TILBURY FORT.</h3> + +<p>On the opposite bank of the Thames is Tilbury Fort, the noted fortress +that commands the navigation of the river and protects the entrance to +London. It dates from Charles II.'s time, fright from De Ruyter's Dutch +incursion up the Thames in 1667 having led the government to convert +Henry VIII.'s blockhouse that stood there into a strong fortification. +It was to Tilbury that Queen Elizabeth went when she defied the Spanish +Armada. Leicester put a bridge of boats across the river to obstruct the +passage, and gathered an army of eighteen thousand men on shore. Here +the queen made her bold speech of defiance, in which she said she knew +she had the body of but a weak and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> feeble woman, but she also had the +heart and stomach of a king, and rather than her realm should be invaded +and dishonor grow by her, she herself would take up arms. She had then, +all told, one hundred and thirty thousand soldiers and one hundred and +eighty-one war-vessels, but the elements conquered the "Invincible +Armada," barely one-third of it getting back to Spain.</p> + +<p>Thus we have traced England's famous river from its source in the +Cotswolds until it falls into the North Sea at the mouth of the broad +estuary beyond Sheerness and the Nore. Knowing the tale of grandeur that +its banks unfold, Wordsworth's feelings can be understood as he halted +upon Westminster Bridge in the early morning and looked down the Thames +upon London: its mighty heart was still and its houses seemed asleep as +the tranquil scene inspired the great poet to write his sonnet:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Earth has not anything to show more fair;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Dull would he be of soul who could pass by</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A sight so touching in its majesty:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This city now doth like a garment wear</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Open unto the fields and to the sky;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Never did sun more beautifully steep</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">In his first splendor valley, rock, or hill;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The river glideth at his own sweet will;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dear God! the very houses seem asleep,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And all that mighty heart is lying still."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>V.</h2> + +<h3>LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Harrow—St. Albans—Verulam—Hatfield House—Lord +Burleigh—Cassiobury—Knebworth—Great Bed of Ware—The river +Cam—Audley End—Saffron Walden—Newport—Nell +Gwynn—Littlebury—Winstanley—Harwich—Cambridge—Trinity and St. +John's Colleges—Caius College—Trinity Hall—The Senate +House—University Library—Clare College—Great St. Mary's +Church—King's College—Corpus Christi College—St. Catharine's +College—Queen's College—The Pitt Press—Pembroke +College—Peterhouse—Fitzwilliam Museum—Hobson's Conduit—Downing +College—Emmanuel College—Christ's College—Sidney-Sussex +College—The Round Church—Magdalene College—Jesus +College—Trumpington—The Fenland—Bury St. Edmunds—Hengrave +Hall—Ely—Peterborough—Crowland Abbey—Guthlac—Norwich Castle +and Cathedral—Stamford—Burghley House—George +Inn—Grantham—Lincoln—Nottingham—Southwell—Sherwood +Forest—Robin Hood—The Dukeries—Thoresby Hall—Clumber +Park—Welbeck Abbey—Newstead Abbey—Newark—Hull—William +Wilberforce—Beverley—Sheffield—Wakefield—Leeds—Bolton +Abbey—The Strid—Ripon Cathedral—Fountains Abbey—Studley +Royal—Fountains Hall—York—Eboracum—York Minster—Clifford's +Tower—Castle Howard—Kirkham Priory—Flamborough +Head—Scarborough—Whitby Abbey—Durham Cathedral and Castle—St. +Cuthbert—The Venerable Bede—Battle of Neville's +Cross—Chester-le-Street—Lumley +Castle—Newcastle-upon-Tyne—Hexham—Alnwick Castle—Hotspur and +the Percies—St. Michael's Church—Hulne Priory—Ford +Castle—Flodden Field—The Tweed—Berwick—Holy +Isle—Lindisfarne—Bamborough—Grace Darling.</p></div> + + +<h3>ST. ALBANS.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p225" id="p225"></a> +<img src="images/p225.jpg" width="650" height="486" alt="ST. ALBANS, FROM VERULAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. ALBANS, FROM VERULAM.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p226-1" id="p226-1"></a><span class="caption">THE OLD WALL AT VERULAM.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p226-1.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:420px; height:310px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:350px;"> </div> + +<p><br />The railway running from London to Edinburgh, and on which the +celebrated fast train the "Flying Scotchman" travels between the two +capitals, is the longest in Britain. Its route northward from the +metropolis to the Scottish border, with occasional digressions, will +furnish many places of interest. On the outskirts of London, in the +north-western suburbs, is the well-known school founded three hundred +years ago by John Lyon at Harrow, standing on a hill two hundred feet +high. One of the most interesting towns north of London, for its +historical associations and antiquarian remains, is St. Albans in +Hertfordshire. Here, on the opposite slopes of a shelving valley, are +seen on the one hand the town that has clustered around the ancient +abbey of St. Albans, and on the other the ruins of the fortification of +Verulam, both relics of Roman power and magnificence. On this spot stood +the chief town of the Cassii, whose king, Cassivelaunus, vainly opposed +the inroads of Cæsar. Here the victorious Roman, after crossing the +Thames, besieged and finally overthrew the Britons. The traces of the +ancient earthworks are still plainly seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> on the banks of the little +river Ver, and when the Romans got possession there arose the +flourishing town of Verulam, which existed until the British +warrior-queen. Boadicea, stung by the oppressions of her race, stormed +and captured the place and ruthlessly massacred its people. But her +triumph was short lived, for the Romans, gaining reinforcements, +recaptured the city. This was in the earlier days of the Christian era, +and at a time when Christian persecutions raged. There then lived in +Verulam a prominent man named Alban, a young Roman of good family. In +the year 303 a persecuted priest named Amphibalus threw himself upon the +mercy of Alban, and sought refuge in his house. The protection was +granted, and in a few days the exhortations of Amphibalus had converted +his protector to Christianity. The officials, getting word of +Amphibalus' whereabouts, sent a guard to arrest him, whereupon Alban +dismissed his guest secretly, and, wrapping himself in the priest's robe +and hood, awaited the soldiers. They seized him, and took him before the +magistrates, when the trick was discovered. He was given the alternative +of dying or sacrificing to the gods of Rome, but, preferring the crown +of martyrdom, after cruel torments he was led to his doom. He was to be +taken across the Ver to be beheaded, but miracles appeared. The stream, +which had been a-flood, quickly dried up, so that the multitude could +pass, and this so touched the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> executioner that he refused to strike the +blow and declared himself also a convert. The executioner's head was +quickly stricken off, and another headsman obtained. Alban meanwhile was +athirst, and at his prayer a spring broke from the ground for his +refreshment. The new executioner struck off Alban's head, but in doing +so his eyes dropped from their sockets. On the spot where Alban died the +abbey was afterwards built. His martyrdom did not save Amphibalus, who +was soon captured and put to death at Redburn, a few miles away, where +his relics were afterwards discovered and enshrined, like those of his +pupil, in the abbey.</p></div> + +<p style="clear: both;"> </p> + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p227-1" id="p227-1"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p227-1/227-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p227-1.jpg" width="295" height="500" + alt="THE TOWER OF THE ABBEY." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p227-2.jpg" width="237" height="500" + alt="STAIRCASE TO WATCHING-GALLERY." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE TOWER OF THE ABBEY.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">STAIRCASE TO WATCHING-GALLERY.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="p226-2" id="p226-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 271px;"> +<img src="images/p226-2.jpg" width="271" height="450" alt="MONASTERY GATE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MONASTERY GATE.</span> +</div> +<p>The sacrifice of the protomartyr brought its fruits. Verulam became +Christian, and within a century was paying him the honors of a saint. In +the eighth century King Offa of Mercia, having treacherously murdered +King Ethelbert, became conscience-stricken, and to propitiate Heaven +founded the abbey. He built a Benedictine monastery, which was richly +endowed, and gradually attracted the town away from Verulam and over to +its present site. This monastery existed until the Norman Conquest, when +it was rebuilt, the ruins of Verulam serving as a quarry. Thus began the +great abbey of St. Albans, which still overlooks the Ver, although it +has been materially altered since. It prospered greatly, and the close +neighborhood to London brought many pilgrims as well as royal visits. +The abbots were invested with great powers and became dictatorial and +proud, having frequent contests with the townsfolk; and it is recorded +that one young man who applied for admission to the order, being refused +on account of his ignorance, went abroad and ultimately became Pope +Adrian IV. But he bore the abbot no ill-will, afterwards granting it +many favors. Cardinal Wolsey was once the abbot, but did not actively +govern it. In 1539 its downfall came, and it surrendered to King Henry +VIII. The deed of surrender, signed by thirty-nine monks, is still +preserved, and the seal is in the British Museum. The abbey is now in +ruins; the church and gateway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> remain, but the great group of buildings +that composed it has mostly disappeared, so that the old monastery is +almost as completely effaced as Verulam. But the church, by being bought +for $2000 for the St. Albans parish church, is still preserved, and is +one of the most interesting ecclesiastical structures in England; yet +its great length and massive central tower are rather unfavorable to its +picturesqueness, though the tower when seen from a distance impresses by +its grandeur and simplicity. In this tower, as well as in other parts of +the church, can be detected the ancient bricks from Verulam. The +ground-plan of St. Albans Church is a Latin cross, and it is five +hundred and forty-eight feet long. The western part was erected in the +twelfth, and the greater portion of the nave and choir in the thirteenth +century. The floor of the choir is almost paved with sepulchral slabs, +though of the two hundred monuments the church once contained barely a +dozen remain. At the back of the high altar was the great treasury of +the abbey, the shrine enclosing St. Alban's relics, but this was +destroyed at the Reformation: some fragments have been since discovered, +and the shrine thus reproduced with tolerable completeness. On the side +of the chapel is a wooden gallery, with cupboards beneath and a +staircase leading up to it. In the shrine and cupboards were the abbey +treasures, and in the gallery the monks kept<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> watch at night lest they +should be despoiled. This vigilance, we are told, was necessary, for +rival abbeys were by no means scrupulous about the means by which they +augmented their stores of relics. This quaint gallery, still preserved, +is five hundred years old. Near the shrine is the tomb of Duke Humphrey +of Gloucester, brother of King Henry V. and regent during the minority +of Henry VI., who was assassinated at Windsor. The tomb was opened in +1703, and the skeleton found buried among spices and enclosed in two +coffins, the outer of lead. The vault remained opened, and visitors +purloined good Humphrey's bones till nearly all had disappeared, when +the authorities concluded it was better to close up the vault and save +what remained. The massive gatehouse, which still exists, was built in +Richard II.'s reign, and was used for a jail until not long ago they +determined to put a school there. In front of it the martyr Tankerfield +was burnt, and buried in 1555 in a little triangular graveyard which +still exists. Fox, in his <i>Book of Martyrs</i>, relates that he endured the +pain with great constancy, and testified to the last against the errors +of his persecutors.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="p228" id="p228"></a> +<img src="images/p228.jpg" width="420" height="650" alt="THE SHRINE AND WATCHING-GALLERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SHRINE AND WATCHING-GALLERY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"> +<a name="p229-1" id="p229-1"></a> +<img src="images/p229-1.jpg" width="368" height="500" alt="CLOCK-TOWER, ST. ALBANS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CLOCK-TOWER, ST. ALBANS.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p229-2" id="p229-2"></a> +<img src="images/p229-2.jpg" width="550" height="290" alt="BARNARD'S HEATH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BARNARD'S HEATH.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the town of St. Albans, near the abbey and at the junction of two +streets, stands the ancient clock-tower, built in the early part of the +fifteenth century, and mainly of flint. It occupies the site of an +earlier one said to have been erected by two ladies of Verulam, who, +wandering alone in the woods and becoming lost, saw a light in a house, +sought refuge there, and erected the tower on the site as a memorial of +their deliverance. The bell in this tower was in former days used to +ring the curfew. The town itself has little to show. In the church of +St. Peter, among the monumental brasses, is the one to a priest often +quoted, that reads:</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Lo, all that here I spent, that some time had I;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All that I gave in good intent, that now have I;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That I neither gave nor lent, that now abie<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> I;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That I kept till I went, that lost I."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Edward Strong, the mason who built St. Paul's Cathedral in London under +the direction of Wren, is also buried in this church. Its chief tenants, +however, are the slain at the second battle of St. Albans in the Wars of +the Roses. At the first of these battles, fought in 1455 on the east +side of the town, Henry of Lancaster was wounded and captured by the +Duke of York. The second battle, a much more important contest, was +fought on Shrove Tuesday, February 17, 1461, at Barnard's Heath, north +of the town, and near St. Peter's Church. Queen Margaret of Lancaster +led her forces in person, and was victorious over the Yorkists under the +Earl of Warwick, liberating the captive king, who was in the enemy's +camp, and following the battle by a ruthless execution of prisoners. +King Henry, who had gone to St. Alban's shrine in tribulation when +captured in the earlier contest, also went there again in thanksgiving +when thus liberated six years later. The town of St. Albans, by the +growth of time, has stretched across the Ver, and one straggling suburb +reaches into the north-western angle of the ruins of ancient Verulam, +where it clusters around the little church of St. Michael within the +Roman city. This is a plain church, built in patches, parts of it nearly +a thousand years old, and is the burial place of Francis Bacon, who was +Baron of Verulam and Viscount St. Albans. Within a niche on the side of +the chancel is his familiar effigy in marble, where he sits in an +arm-chair and contemplatively gazes upward. From these ruins of Verulam +is obtained the best view of St. Alban's Abbey, with the town in the +background, overlooked by its clock-tower.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;"> +<a name="p230" id="p230"></a> +<img src="images/p230.jpg" width="371" height="550" alt="ST. MICHAEL'S, VERULAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. MICHAEL'S, VERULAM.</span> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> This word means <i>expiate</i>.</p></div> + + +<h3>HATFIELD HOUSE.</h3> + +<p>A short distance east of St. Albans is Hatfield, and in a fine park in +the suburbs stands the magnificent mansion of the Marquis of +Salisbury—Hatfield House. The place is ancient, though the house is +completely modern. The manor was given by King Edgar to the monastery at +Ely, and, as in course of time the abbot became a bishop, the manor +afterwards became known as Bishops Hatfield, a name that it still bears. +The oldest portion of the present buildings was erected in the reign of +Henry VII., and in the time of his successor it passed into possession +of the Crown. Here lived young Edward VI., and he was escorted by the +Earl of Hertford and a cavalcade of noblemen from Hatfield to London for +his coronation. The youthful king granted Hatfield to his sister +Elizabeth, and here she was kept in Queen Mary's reign after her release +from the Tower. She was under the guardianship of Sir Thomas Pope when, +in November, 1558, Queen Mary died, and Sir William Cecil sent +mes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>sengers from London to apprise Elizabeth that the crown awaited her. +We are told that when they arrived the princess was found in the park, +sitting under a spreading oak—a noble tree then, but time has since +made sad havoc with it, though the remains are carefully preserved as +one of the most precious memorials at Hatfield. The family of Cecil, +thus introduced to Hatfield, was destined to continue associated with +its fortunes. Sir William came to the manor on the next day, and then +peers and courtiers of all ilks flocked thither to worship the rising +sun. On the following day the queen gave her first reception in the hall +and received the fealty of the leading men of every party; but she did +not forget Cecil, for her earliest act was to appoint him her chief +secretary, lord treasurer, and adviser—a tie that continued for forty +years and was only sundered by death. Cecil was afterwards made Lord +Burghley, and the confidence thus first reposed in him within the hall +that was afterwards to become the home of his descendants was most +remarkable. "No arts," writes Lord Macaulay, "could shake the confidence +which she reposed in her old and trusty servant. The courtly graces of +Leicester, the brilliant talents and accomplishments of Essex, touched +the fancy, perhaps the heart, of the woman, but no rival could deprive +the treasurer of the place which he possessed in the favor of the queen. +She sometimes chid him sharply, but he was the man whom she delighted to +honor. For Burghley she forgot her usual parsimony, both of wealth and +dignities; for Burghley she relaxed that severe etiquette to which she +was unreasonably attached. Every other person to whom she addressed her +speech, or on whom the glance of her eagle eye fell, instantly sank on +his knee. For Burghley alone a chair was set in her presence, and there +the old minister, by birth only a plain Lincolnshire esquire, took his +ease, while the haughty heirs of the Fitzalans and De Veres humbled +themselves to the dust around him. At length, having survived all his +early coadjutors and rivals, he died, full of years and honors."</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p232" id="p232"></a> +<img src="images/p232.jpg" width="600" height="340" alt="HATFIELD HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HATFIELD HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p231" id="p231"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 292px;"> +<img src="images/p231.jpg" width="292" height="450" alt="QUEEN ELIZABETH'S OAK, HATFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">QUEEN ELIZABETH'S OAK, HATFIELD.</span> +</div> + +<p>But it was not until after his death that Hatfield came into possession +of his family. He built Burghley House near Stamford in Lincolnshire, +and left it to his younger son, Sir Robert Cecil. After Elizabeth's +death, King James I. expressed a preference for Burghley over Hatfield, +and an exchange was made by which Hatfield passed into possession of Sir +Robert, who had suc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>ceeded his father as chief minister, and, though in +weak health and of small stature, was a wise and faithful servant of the +queen and of her successor. In Elizabeth's last illness, when she +persisted in sitting propped up on a stool by pillows, he urged her to +rest herself, and inadvertently said she "must go to bed." The queen +fired up. "Must!" cried she. "Is <i>must</i> a word to be addressed to +princes? Little man, little man, thy father if he had been alive durst +not have used that word." Sir Robert did not survive the queen many +years, and to him King James's peaceful succession to the throne is said +to have been greatly due. The king made him the Earl of Salisbury, and +the title descended for several generations, until, in 1773, the seventh +earl was promoted to the rank of marquis, and now Robert Cecil, the +third Marquis of Salisbury and one of the leaders of the Conservative +party, presides over the estates at Hatfield. The chief entrance to +Hatfield House is on the northern side, and above it rises a cupola. The +buildings form three sides of an oblong, the longer line fronting the +north and the two wings pointing towards the south. They are of brick, +with stone dressings and facings, and are admired as a faithful example +of the excellent domestic architecture of the early part of the +seventeenth century. The approach through the park from the town is of +great beauty, the grand avenue, bordered by stately trees, conducting +the visitor to a court in front of the house enclosed by a balustrade +with handsome gates. Within the building the most remarkable features +are the galleries, extending along the entire southern front. The +gallery on the ground<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> floor was formerly a corridor, open on one side +to the air; but at a comparatively recent period this has been enclosed +with glass, and thus converted into a gallery paved with black and white +marble, and ornamented with arms and armor, some being trophies from the +Armada and others from the Crimea. Here is the rich saddle-cloth used on +the white steed that Queen Elizabeth rode at Tilbury. There are a fine +chapel and attractive state-apartments, but around the old house there +lingers a tale of sorrow. The western wing was burned in 1835, and the +dowager marchioness, the grandmother of the present marquis, then five +years old, perished in the flames, which originated in her chamber. This +wing has been finely restored, and the room in which she was burned +contains her portrait, an oval medallion let into the wall over the +fireplace. It is the sweet and sunny face of a young girl, and her +tragic fate in helpless age reminds of Solon's warning as we look at the +picture: "Count no one happy till he dies." In the gallery at Hatfield +are portraits of King Henry VIII. and all six of his wives. In the +library, which is rich in historical documents, is the pedigree of Queen +Elizabeth, emblazoned in 1559, and tracing her ancestry in a direct line +back to Adam! The state bedrooms have been occupied by King James, +Cromwell, and Queen Victoria. In the gardens, not far from the house, is +the site of the old episcopal palace of Bishops Hatfield, of which one +side remains standing, with the quaint gatehouse now used as an avenue +of approach up the hill from the town to the stables. There is a fine +view of the town through the ancient gateway. Here lived the princess +Elizabeth, and in the halls where kings have banqueted the marquis's +horses now munch their oats. Immediately below, in the town, is +Salisbury Chapel, in which repose the bones of his ancestors.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p233" id="p233"></a> +<img src="images/p233.jpg" width="600" height="372" alt="THE CORRIDOR, HATFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CORRIDOR, HATFIELD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Also in Hertfordshire are Cassiobury, the seat of the Earls of Essex, +whose ancestor, Lord Capel, who was beheaded in 1648 for his loyalty to +King Charles I., brought the estate into the family by his marriage with +Elizabeth Morison; and Knebworth, the home of Lord Lytton the novelist, +which has been the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> home of his ancestors since the time of Henry VII., +when it was bought by Sir Robert Lytton. The "Great Bed of Ware" is one +of the curiosities of the county—a vast bed twelve feet square, +originally at the Saracen's Head Inn. It was built for King Edward IV., +and was curiously carved, and has had a distinguished place in English +literary allusions. The bed still exists at Rye House in Hertfordshire, +where it was removed a few years ago. A dozen people have slept in it at +the same time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p234" id="p234"></a> +<img src="images/p234.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="VIEW THROUGH OLD GATEWAY, HATFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW THROUGH OLD GATEWAY, HATFIELD.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>AUDLEY END AND SAFFRON WALDEN.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p235" id="p235"></a> +<img src="images/p235.jpg" width="600" height="406" alt="AUDLEY END, WESTERN FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">AUDLEY END, WESTERN FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<p>Journeying farther from London, and into the county of Essex, we come to +the little river Cam, and on the side of its valley, among the gentle +undulations of the Essex uplands, is seen the palace of Audley End, and +beyond it the village of Saffron Walden. Here in earlier times was the +abbey of Walden, which, when dissolved by Henry VIII., was granted to +Sir Thomas Audley, who then stood high in royal favor. But almost all +remains of this abbey have disappeared, and Sir Thomas, who was Speaker +of the House, got the grant because of his industry in promoting the +king's wishes for the dissolution of the religious houses, and was also +made Lord Audley of Walden. This, as Fuller tells us, was "a dainty +morsel, an excellent receipt to clear the Speaker's voice, and make him +speak clear and well for his master." But he did not live long to enjoy +it, although giving the estate his name, and it passed ultimately to the +Duke of Norfolk, after whose execution it became the property of his +son, Lord Thomas Howard, whom Queen Elizabeth made Baron Walden, and +King James appointed lord treasurer and promoted to be Earl of Suffolk. +He built the great palace of Audley End, which was intended to eclipse +every palace then existing in England. It was begun in 1603, and was +finished in 1616, the date still remaining upon one of the gateways. +King James twice visited Aud<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>ley End while building, and is said to have +remarked, as he viewed its enormous proportions, that the house was too +large for a king, though it might do for a lord treasurer. It cost over +$1,000,000, but no accurate account was kept, and the earl was so +straitened by the outlay, that after being dismissed from office he was +compelled to sell out several other estates, and died nearly $200,000 in +debt. The second and third earls tried to maintain the white elephant, +but found it too heavy a burden, and the latter sold the house to King +Charles II. for $250,000, of which $100,000 remained on mortgage. It was +known as the New Palace, and became a royal residence. It consisted of a +large outer court and a smaller inner one. Around these the buildings +were constructed from one to three stories high, with towers at the +corners and centres of the fronts. The impression produced by the design +is said not to have been very favorable, it being insufficiently grand +for so vast a pile, and while it was a pleasant residence in summer, the +want of facilities for heating made it in winter little better than a +barn. When Pepys visited Audley End in 1660 and 1668, his chief +impression seems to have been of the cellars, for he writes: "Only the +gallery is good, and, above all things, the cellars, where we went down +and drank of much good liquor. And, indeed, the cellars are fine, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> +here my wife and I did sing, to my great content." It was in the +following year that the house was sold to the king. In 1701, however, it +passed back to the fifth Earl of Suffolk, and about twenty years later a +large part of the structure was taken down. Three sides of the great +court, including the gallery referred to by Pepys, were demolished, and +Audley End was reduced to the buildings around the smaller quadrangle; +this was further reduced in 1749, so that the house assumed its present +appearance of three sides of a square, open towards the east, and thus +remains an excellent type of an early Jacobean mansion, its best view +being from the garden front. Within it has fine apartments, and contains +the only authentic portrait of George II. that is known. This king would +never sit for his picture, and the artist by stealth sketched his +likeness from a closet near the staircase of Kensington Palace, where he +had an excellent view of the peculiar monarch. It is, as Thackeray says, +the picture of a "red-faced, staring princeling," but is believed true +to nature nevertheless. Lady Suffolk, it seems, was one of his few +favorites. Audley End has been for a long time in possession of the +Barons of Braybrooke, and is their principal seat. Lord Cornwallis, of +American Revolutionary remembrance, was a member of this family, and his +portrait is preserved here.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 635px;"> +<a name="p237" id="p237"></a> +<img src="images/p237.jpg" width="635" height="650" alt="VIEWS IN SAFFRON WALDEN. + +1. Town-Hall. 2. Church. 3. Entrance to the Town." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEWS IN SAFFRON WALDEN.<br /> + +1. Town-Hall. 2. Church. 3. Entrance to the Town.</span> +</div> + +<p>Over the undulating surface of the park, barely a mile away, can be seen +the pretty spire of Saffron Walden Church, with the village clustering +around it. Here on a hill stand the church and the castle, originally of +Walden, but from the extensive cultivation of saffron in the +neighborhood the town came to have that prefix given it; it was grown +there from the time of Edward III., and the ancient historian Fuller +quaintly tells us "it is a most admirable cordial, and under God I owe +my life, when sick with the small-pox, to the efficacy thereof." Fuller +goes on to tell us that "the sovereign power of genuine saffron is +plainly proved by the antipathy of the crocodile thereto; for the +crocodile's tears are never true save when he is forced where saffron +groweth, whence he hath his name of croco-deilos, or the saffron-fearer, +knowing himself to be all poison, and it all antidote." Saffron attained +its highest price at Walden in Charles II.'s time, when it was as high +as twenty dollars a pound, but its disuse in medicine caused its value +to diminish, and at the close of the last century its culture had +entirely disappeared from Walden, though the prefix still clings to the +name of the town. While saffron was declining, this neighborhood became +a great producer of truffles, and the dogs were trained here to hunt the +fungus that is so dear to the epicure's palate. The church of St. Mary, +which is a fine Perpendicular structure and the most conspicuous feature +of Saffron Walden, was built about four hundred years ago, though the +slender spire crowning its western tower is of later date, having been +built in the present century.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> In the church are buried the six Earls of +Suffolk who lived at Audley End, and all of whom died between 1709 and +1745. The ruins of the ancient castle, consisting chiefly of a portion +of the keep and some rough arches, are not far from the church, and +little is known of its origin. There is a museum near the ruins which +contains some interesting antiquities and a fine natural-history +collection. The newly-constructed town-hall, built in antique style, +overhanging the footway and supported on arches, is one of the most +interesting buildings in Saffron Walden: the mayor and corporation +meeting here date their charter from 1549. Not far away, at Newport, +lived Nell Gwynn in a modest cottage with a royal crown over the door. +She was one of the numerous mistresses of Charles II., and is said to +have been the only one who remained faithful to him. She bore him two +sons, one dying in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> childhood, and the other becoming the Duke of St. +Albans, a title created in 1684, and still continued in the persons of +his descendants of the family of Beauclerc. Nell was originally an +orange-girl who developed into a variety actress, and, fascinating the +king, he bought her from Lord Buckhurst, her lover, for an earldom and a +pension. Nell is said to have cost the king over $300,000 in four years. +She had her good qualities and was very popular in England, and she +persuaded the king to found Chelsea Hospital for disabled soldiers, and +he also bore her genuine affection, for his dying words were, "Let not +poor Nelly starve." She survived him about seven years. Also in the +neighborhood, at Littlebury, was the home of Winstanley, the builder of +the first Eddystone Lighthouse, who perished in it when it was destroyed +by a terrific storm in 1703.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p238" id="p238"></a> +<img src="images/p238.jpg" width="600" height="312" alt="JETTIES AT HARWICH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">JETTIES AT HARWICH.</span> +</div> + +<p>Digressing down to the coast of Essex, on the North Sea, we find at the +confluence of the Stour and Orwell the best harbor on that side of +England, bordered by the narrow and old-fashioned streets of the ancient +seaport of Harwich. Here vast fleets seek shelter in easterly gales +behind the breakwater that is run out from the Beacon Hill. From here +sail many steamers to Rotterdam and Antwerp in connection with the +railways from London, and the harbor-entrance is protected by the +ancient Languard Fort, built by James I. on a projecting spit of land +now joined to the Suffolk coast to the northward. One of the most +interesting scenes at Harwich is a group of old wrecks that has been +utilized for a series of jetties in connection with a shipbuilder's +yard. Weather-beaten and battered, they have been moored in a placid +haven, even though it be on the unpicturesque coast of Essex.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>CAMBRIDGE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p239" id="p239"></a> +<img src="images/p239.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="BRIDGE, ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRIDGE, ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Returning to the valley of the Cam, we will follow it down to the great +university city of Cambridge, fifty-eight miles north of London. It +stands in a wide and open valley, and is built on both banks of the +river, which is navigable up to this point, so that the town is +literally the "Bridge over the Cam." The situation is not so picturesque +or so favorable as that of the sister university city of Oxford, but it +is nevertheless an attractive city, the stately buildings being +admirably set off by groups and avenues of magnificent trees that +flourish nowhere to better advantage than in English scenery. The chief +colleges are ranged along the right bank of the Cam, with their fronts +away from the water, while behind each there is a sweep of deliciously +green meadowland known as the "Backs of the Colleges," surrounded by +trees, and with a leafy screen of foliage making the background beyond +the buildings. While the greater part of modern Cambridge is thus on the +right bank of the river, the oldest portion was located on a low plateau +forming the opposite shore. It is uncertain when the university was +first established there. Henry Beau<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>clerc, the youngest son of William +the Conqueror, studied the arts and sciences at Cambridge, and when he +became king he bestowed many privileges upon the town and fixed a +regular ferry over the Cam. By the thirteenth century scholars had +assembled there and become a recognized body, according to writs issued +by Henry III. In 1270 the title of a university was formally bestowed, +and the oldest known collegiate foundation—Peterhouse, or St. Peter's +College—had been established a few years before. Cambridge has in all +seventeen colleges, and the present act of incorporation was granted by +Queen Elizabeth. The Duke of Devonshire is the chancellor. The student +graduates either "in Honors" or "in the Poll." In the former case he can +obtain a distinction in mathematics, classics, the sciences, theology, +etc. The names of the successful students are arranged in three classes +in a list called the Tripos, a name derived from the three-legged stool +whereon sat in former days one of the bachelors, who recited a set of +satirical verses at the time the degrees were conferred. In the +Mathematical Tripos the first class are called Wranglers, and the others +Senior and Junior Optimes. Thus graduate the "Dons" of Cambridge.</p> + + +<h3>TRINITY AND ST. JOHN'S COLLEGES.</h3> + +<p>Let us now take a brief review of the seventeen colleges of Cambridge. +In Trinity Street is Trinity College, founded in 1546 by Henry VIII. It +consists of four quadrangular courts, the Great Court being the largest +quadrangle in the university, and entered from the street by the grand +entrance-tower known as the King's Gateway. On the northern side of the +quadrangle are the chapel and King Edward's Court, and in the centre of +the southern side the Queen's Tower, with a statue of Queen Mary. In the +centre of the quadrangle is a quaint conduit. The chapel is a plain +wainscoted room, with an ante-chapel filled with busts of former members +of the college—among them Bacon and Macaulay—and also a noble statue +of Newton. Trinity College Hall is one hundred feet long and the finest +in Cambridge, its walls being adorned with several portraits. It was in +Trinity that Byron, Dryden, Cowley, Herbert, and Tennyson were all +students. There are said to be few spectacles more impressive than the +choral service on Sunday evening in term-time, when Trinity Chapel is +crowded with surpliced students. In the Master's Lodge, on the western +side of the quadrangle, are the state-apartments where royalty is lodged +when visiting Cambridge, and here also in special apartments the judges +are housed when on circuit. Through screens or passages in the hall the +second quadrangle, Neville's Court, is entered, named for a master of +the college who died in 1615. Here is the library, an attractive +apartment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> supported on columns, which contains Newton's telescope and +some of his manuscripts, and also a statue of Byron. The King's (or New) +Court, is a modern addition, built in the present century at a cost of +$200,000. From this the College Walks open on the western side, the view +from the gateway looking down the long avenue of lime trees being +strikingly beautiful. The Master's Court is the fourth quadrangle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p241" id="p241"></a> +<img src="images/p241.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="HALL OF TRINITY COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HALL OF TRINITY COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Adjoining Trinity is its rival, St. John's College, also consisting of +four courts, though one of them is of modern construction and on the +opposite bank of the river. This college was founded by the countess +Margaret of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., and opened in 1516, having +been for three centuries previously a hospital. It is generally regarded +from this circumstance as being the oldest college at Cambridge. The +gateway is a tower of mingled brick and stone and one of the earliest +structures of the college. Entering it, on the opposite side of the +court is seen the New Chapel, but recently completed, a grand edifice +one hundred and seventy-two feet long and sixty-three feet high, with a +surmounting tower whose interior space is open and rises eighty-four +feet above the pavement. The roof and the windows are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> richly colored, +and variegated marbles have been employed in the interior decoration. +The eastern end is a five-sided apse; the ceiling is vaulted in oak, +while the chapel has a magnificent screen. Between the first and second +courts is the hall, recently enlarged and decorated, and the library is +on the northern side of the third court. It is a picturesque room of +James I.'s time, with a timbered roof, whitened walls, and carved oaken +bookcases black with age. The second court is of earlier date, and a +fine specimen of sixteenth-century brickwork. On the southern side is an +octagonal turret, at the top of which is the queer little room occupied +by Dr. Wood, whose statue is in the chapel. When he first came to +college from his humble home in the north of England he was so poor that +he studied by the light of the staircase candle, and wrapped his feet in +wisps of hay in winter to save the cost of a fire. He became the Senior +Wrangler, and in due course a Fellow, and ultimately master of the +college. To this was added the deanery of Ely. Dying, he bequeathed his +moderate fortune for the aid of poor students and the benefit of his +college. Of the third court the cloister on the western side fronts the +river. The New Court, across the Cam, is a handsome structure, faced +with stone and surmounted by a tower. A covered Gothic bridge leads to +it over the river from the older parts of the college. In the garden +along the river, known as the Wilderness, Prior the poet is said to have +laid out the walks. Here among the students who have taken recreation +have been Wordsworth and Herschel, Wilberforce and Stillingfleet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p242" id="p242"></a> +<img src="images/p242.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>CAIUS AND CLARE COLLEGES.</h3> + +<p>It took two founders to establish Gonville and Caius College, and both +their names are preserved in the title, though it is best known as Caius +(pronounced Keys) College. Its buildings were ancient, but have been +greatly changed in the present century, so that the chief entrance is +now beneath a lofty tower, part of the New Court and fronting the Senate +House. This New Court is a fine building, ornamented with busts of the +most conspicuous men of Caius. Beyond is the smaller or Caius Court of +this college, constructed in the sixteenth century. The "Gate of Virtue +and Wisdom" connects them, and is surmounted by an odd turret. On the +other side is the "Gate of Honor," a good specimen of the Renaissance. +The "Gate of Humility" was removed in rebuilding the New Court. Thus did +this college give its students veritable sermons in stones. The founders +of Caius were physicians, and among its most eminent members were Hervey +and Jeremy Taylor. Adjoining Caius is Trinity Hall, as noted for the law +as its neighbor is for medicine, and immediately to the south is a group +of university buildings. Among these is the Senate House, opened in +1730, where the university degrees are conferred. It has a fine +interior, especially the ceiling, and among the statues is an impressive +one of the younger Pitt. The most exciting scene in the Senate House is +when the result of the mathematical examination is announced. This for a +long time was almost the only path to distinction at Cambridge. When all +are assembled upon a certain Friday morning in January, one of the +examiners stands up in the centre of the western gallery and just as the +clock strikes nine proclaims to the crowd the name of the "Senior +Wrangler," or first student of the year, with a result of deafening +cheers; then the remainder of the list is read. On the following day the +recipients of degrees and visitors sit on the lower benches, and the +undergraduates cram the galleries. Then with much pomp the favored +student is conducted to the vice-chancellor to receive his first degree +alone. The University Library is near by, and, as it gets a copy of +every book entered for English copyright, it has become a large one. +Some of the manuscripts it contains are very valuable, particularly the +<i>Codex Beza</i>, a manuscript of the Gospels given in 1581 by Beza.</p> + +<p><a name="p244" id="p244"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 8em;">BACK OF CLARE COLLEGE.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p244.jpg); height: 100%;"> + +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:640px; height:350px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:220px; height:100px;"> </div> + +<p>Adjoining Trinity Hall is the beautiful court of Clare College, dating +from the time of the Civil Wars, when it replaced older structures. Its +exterior is most attractive to visitors, exhibiting the pleasing +architecture of the sixteenth century. The river-front is much admired, +while the gateway is marked by quaint lantern-like windows. In the +library is one of the rare Bibles of Sixtus V., and in the Master's +Lodge is kept the poison-cup of Clare, which is both<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> curious and +beautiful. The gentle lady's mournful fate has been told by Scott in +<i>Marmion</i>. Tillotson and other famous divines were students at Clare, +and the college also claims Chaucer, but this is doubtful, though the +college figures in his story of the "Miller of Trumpington," and also +adjuts upon Trumpington Street. Upon the opposite side of this street is +Great St. Mary's Church, the university church, an attractive building +of Perpendicular architecture and having fine chimes of bells. Here the +vice chancellor listens to a sermon every Sunday afternoon in term-time. +Formerly, on these occasions, the "heads and doctors" of the university +sat in an enclosed gallery built like a sort of gigantic opera-box, and +profanely called the "Golgotha." A huge pulpit faced them on the other +end of the church, and the centre formed a sort of pit. Modern +improvements have, however, swept this away, replacing it with ordinary +pews.</p></div> + + + + + +<h3>KING'S, CORPUS CHRISTI, AND QUEENS' COLLEGES.</h3> + +<p>Trumpington Street broadens into the King's Parade, and here, entered +through a modern buttressed screen pierced with openings filled with +tracery, is King's College. It was founded by Henry VI. in 1440, and in +immediate connection with the school at Eton, from which the more +advanced scholars were to be transferred. The great King's Chapel, which +gives an idea of the grand scale on which this college was to be +constructed, is the special boast of Cambridge. It is two hundred and +eighty feet long, forty-five feet wide, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> seventy-eight feet high, +with a marvellously fretted roof of stone, and large windows at the +sides and ends filled with beautiful stained glass. This is the most +imposing of all the buildings in Cambridge, and occupies the entire +northern side of the college court. Its fine doorway is regarded as the +most pleasing part of the exterior design. The stained-glass windows are +divided into an upper and lower series of pictures. The lower is a +continuous chain of gospel history, while the upper exhibits the +Old-Testament types of the subjects represented below. Although designed +on such a magnificent scale, the Wars of the Roses interfered with the +completion of King's College, and even the chapel was not finished until +Henry VIII.'s reign. The other college buildings are modern.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;"> +<a name="p245" id="p245"></a> +<img src="images/p245.jpg" width="354" height="600" alt="KING'S COLLEGE CHAPEL—INTERIOR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KING'S COLLEGE CHAPEL—INTERIOR.</span> +</div> + +<p>Adjoining King's is Corpus Christi College, the buildings being almost +entirely modern. Of the ancient structure one small court alone remains, +a picturesque steep-roofed building almost smothered in ivy. Corpus +Christi Hall is said to have been partly designed after the great hall +of Kenilworth. In its library are the famous manuscripts rescued from +the suppressed monasteries, there being four hundred interesting and +curious volumes of these precious documents, which are most jealously +guarded. Opposite Corpus is St. Catharine's College, with a +comparatively plain hall and chapel. Behind this is Queens' College, an +antique structure, though not a very ancient foundation. Its +entrance-tower is of brick, and a quaint low cloister runs around the +interior court. Within is Erasmus's Court, where are pointed out the +rooms once occupied by that great scholar. Across the river a wooden +bridge leads to a terrace by the water-side with an overhanging border +of elms, and known as Erasmus's Walk. This college was founded by the +rival queens, Margaret of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> Anjou and Elizabeth Widvile, and though it is +very proud of having had the great scholar of the Reformation within its +halls, he does not seem to have entirely reciprocated the pleasure; for +he complains in a letter to a friend that while there "he was blockaded +with the plague, beset with thieves, and drugged with bad wine." +Returning to Trumpington Street, we find on the western side the +University Printing Press, named from the younger statesman the Pitt +Press. He represented the university in Parliament, and the lofty square +and pinnacled tower of this printing-office is one of the most +conspicuous objects in Cambridge. Yet even this structure has its +contrasts, for the "Cantabs" consider that its architecture is as bad as +its typography is good.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;"> +<a name="p246" id="p246"></a> +<img src="images/p246.jpg" width="444" height="600" alt="DOORWAY OF KINGS COLLEGE CHAPEL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOORWAY OF KINGS COLLEGE CHAPEL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>OTHER CAMBRIDGE COLLEGES.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 471px;"> +<a name="p247" id="p247"></a> +<img src="images/p247.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="SCENES IN CAMBRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCENES IN CAMBRIDGE.<br /> + +1. The Senate House. 2. The Pitt Press.<br />3. The Round Church. 4. Great +St. Mary's.<br />5. Fitzwilliam Museum.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>Pembroke College, near the Pitt Press, has a chapel designed by +Christopher Wren and recently enlarged. This was the college of Spenser +and Gray, the latter having migrated from the neighboring Peterhouse +because of the practical jokes the students played upon him. It was also +Pitt's college. Opposite Pembroke is Peterhouse, or St. Peter's College, +the most ancient foundation in Cambridge, established by Hugh de +Balsham, Bishop of Ely, in 1284. Beyond Peterhouse is the Fitzwilliam +Museum, a most successful reproduction of classic architecture, built +and maintained by a legacy of $500,000 left by Viscount Fitzwilliam in +1816. It contains an excellent art and literary collection, which was +begun by the viscount. This is regarded as probably the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> finest +classical building constructed in the present century in England. A +short distance beyond, at the end of a water-course, is an attractive +hexagonal structure with niched recesses and ornamental capstones. This +is Hobson's Conduit, erected in 1614 by Thomas Hobson. This benefactor +of Cambridge was a carrier between London and the university, and is +said to have been the originator of "Hobson's Choice." The youngest +foundation at Cambridge is Downing College, erected in 1807, an +unobtrusive structure, and near by is Emmanuel College, built on the +site of a Dominican convent and designed by Wren. It was founded by Sir +Walter Mildmay, the Puritan, in 1584, who on going to court was taxed by +Queen Mary with having erected a Puritan college. "No, madam," he +replied, "far be it from me to countenance anything contrary to your +established laws, but I have set an acorn, which when it becomes an oak +God alone knows what will be the fruit thereof." Sir William Temple was +educated at Emmanuel. Christ's College is near by, chiefly interesting +from its associations with Milton, whose rooms are still pointed out, +while a mulberry tree that he planted is preserved in the garden. +Latimer and Paley, with a host of other divines, were students here. +This college was founded by Queen Margaret, mother of Henry VII., and +some beautiful silver plate, her gift to the Fellows, is still +preserved. At Sidney-Sussex College Cromwell was a Fellow in 1616, and +his crayon portrait hangs in the dining-hall. Owing to want of means, he +left without taking a degree. An oriel window projecting over the street +is said to mark his chamber. Upon Bridge Street is the Round Church, or +St. Sepulchre's Church, obtaining its name from its circular Norman +nave, this being one of the four "Temple churches" still remaining in +England. Across the Cam stands Magdalene College, founded in 1519 by +Baron Thomas Audley of Walden. Within the building behind it are the +literary collections of Samuel Pepys, who was secretary to the Admiralty +in the reigns of Charles II. and James II., together with the manuscript +of his famous diary, a book of marvellous gossip, recording the +peccadilloes of its author, the jealousy of his wife, and the +corruptions of the court. He was educated at Magdalene.</p> + +<p>Jesus Lane leads out of Bridge Street to Jesus College, remotely placed +on the river-bank, and of which the chief building of interest is the +chapel, a fine Gothic structure. This college is upon the site of a +Benedictine nunnery founded in 1133, and is entered by a lofty brick +gate-tower which is much admired, and was constructed soon after the +foundation of the college in 1497 by the Bishop of Ely, whose successors +until this day retain the gift of the mastership. From Jesus Lane a path +leads down to the boat-houses on the river bank, where each college has +a boat-club wearing a distinctive dress.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> The racecourse is at the Long +Reach, just below the town. Of the ancient Cambridge Castle, built by +the Conqueror in 1068, nothing remains but the mound upon Castle Hill, +where the county courts are now located. Cambridge, however, has little +besides its university buildings to attract attention. In the suburbs +are two colleges for the instruction of lady students, and two miles +away is Trumpington, near which is the site of the mill told of in +Chaucer's Canterbury tale of the <i>Miller of Trumpington</i>. The place is +now used for gates to admit the river-water into Byron's Pool, which is +so called because the poet frequently bathed in it when he was an +undergraduate of Trinity College.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;"> +<a name="p249" id="p249"></a> +<img src="images/p249.jpg" width="384" height="500" alt="GATEWAY JESUS COLLEGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY JESUS COLLEGE.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE FENLAND.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p250-1" id="p250-1"></a> +<img src="images/p250-1.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="HENGRAVE HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HENGRAVE HALL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p250-2" id="p250-2"></a> +<img src="images/p250-2.jpg" width="600" height="518" alt="ROAD LEADING TO ELY CLOSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROAD LEADING TO ELY CLOSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The river Cam below Cambridge flows through that country of reclaimed +marshland which ultimately ends in the Wash, between Norfolk and +Lincolnshire, and is known as the Fenland. This "Great Level of the +Fens" has been drained and reclaimed by the labors of successive +generations of engineers, and contains about six hundred and eighty +thousand acres of the richest lands in England, being as much the +product of engineering skill as Holland itself. Not many centuries ago +this vast surface, covering two thousand square miles, was entirely +abandoned to the waters, forming an immense estuary of the Wash, into +which various rivers discharge the rainfall of Central England. In +winter it was an inland sea and in summer a noxious swamp. The more +elevated parts were overgrown with tall reeds that in the distance +looked like fields of waving corn, and immense flocks of wild-fowl +haunted them. Into this dismal swamp the rivers brought down their +freshets, the waters mingling and winding by devious channels before +they reached the sea. The silt with which they were laden became +deposited in the basin of the Fens, and thus the river-beds were choked +up, compelling the intercepted waters to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> force new channels through the +ooze; hence there are numerous abandoned beds of old rivers still +traceable amid the level of the Fens. This region now is drained and +dyked, but in earlier times it was a wilderness of shallow waters and +reedy islets, with frequent "islands" of firmer and more elevated +ground. These were availed of for the monasteries of the Fenland—Ely, +Peterborough, Crowland, and others, all established by the Benedictines. +The abbey of Bury St. Edmunds, although situated some distance from the +marshland, may also be classed among the religious houses of the Fens. +This abbey, which is a short distance east of Cambridge, was built in +the eleventh century as the shrine of St. Edmund, King of East Anglia, +who was killed by the Danes about the year 870. It soon became one of +the wealthiest English monasteries, and was the chief religious centre +of that section. Only ruins remain, the chief being the abbey-gate, now +the property of the Marquis of Bristol, and the Norman tower and church, +which have recently been restored. In the suburbs of Bury is Hengrave +Hall, one of the most interesting Tudor mansions remaining in the +kingdom. Originally, it was three times its present size, and was built +by Sir Thomas Kytson about 1525. Its gate-house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> is rich in details, and +the many windows and projections of the southern front group +picturesquely.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p251" id="p251"></a> +<img src="images/p251.jpg" width="600" height="493" alt="ELY CATHEDRAL, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ELY CATHEDRAL, FROM THE RAILWAY-BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Following the Cam northward from Cambridge through the marshland, we +come to the Isle of Ely, the great "fortress of the Fens," and standing +upon its highest ground the cathedral of Ely. Here St. Etheldreda +founded a monastery in the seventh century, which ultimately became a +cathedral, Ely having been given a bishop in 1109. The present buildings +date all the way from the eleventh to the sixteenth century, so that +they give specimens of all Gothic styles. The cathedral is five hundred +and thirty-seven feet long, and from the summit of its western tower can +be gained a fine view of the spreading fens and lowlands of +Cambridgeshire, amid which stands the Isle of Ely. One of the finest +views of this tower is that obtained from the road leading to Ely Close. +Before drainage had improved the surrounding country this was one of the +strongest fortresses in England, and it was also one of the last to +yield<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> to the Norman Conquest, its reduction causing King William heavy +loss. Afterwards he regarded it as among his most loyal strongholds. The +lofty tower, and indeed the whole cathedral, are landmarks for the +entire country round, and from the rising ground at Cambridge, fully +twenty miles to the southward, can be seen standing out against the sky. +From the dykes and fields and meadows that have replaced the marshes +along the Cam and Ouse the huge tower can be seen looming up in stately +grandeur. It is almost the sole attraction of the sleepy little country +town. The great feature of this massive cathedral is the wonderful +central octagon, with its dome-like roof crowned by a lofty lantern, +which is said to be the only Gothic dome of its kind in existence in +England or France. We are told that the original cathedral had a central +tower, which for some time showed signs of instability, until on one +winter's morning in 1321 it came down with an earthquake crash and +severed the cathedral into four arms. In reconstructing it, to ensure +security, the entire breadth of the church was taken as a base for the +octagon, so that it was more than three times as large as the original +square tower. Magnificent windows are inserted in the exterior faces of +the octagon, and the entire cathedral has been recently restored. It was +to Bishop Cox, who then presided over the see of Ely, that Queen +Elizabeth, when he objected to the alienation of certain church +property, wrote her famous letter:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<span class="smcap">Proud Prelate</span>: You know what you were before I made you what you +are; if you do not immediately comply with my request, by God, I +will unfrock you."</p> + +<p class="author"> +"<span class="smcap">Elizabeth R.</span>"<br /> +</p> + +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="p252" id="p252"></a> +<img src="images/p252.jpg" width="320" height="650" alt="OLD BITS IN ELY. +" title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD BITS IN ELY.<br /> + + +1. Old passage from Ely street to Cathedral Ford.<br /> +2. Entrance to Prior Crawdon's Chapel.<br /> +3. Old houses in High Street. + + +</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p> + +<p>The bishop, it is almost unnecessary to say, surrendered. The town +contains little of interest beyond some quaint old houses.</p> + + + +<h3>PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p253" id="p253"></a> +<img src="images/p253.jpg" width="600" height="600" alt="PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p254" id="p254"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 339px;"> +<img src="images/p254.jpg" width="339" height="450" alt="AISLE AND CHOIR, PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">AISLE AND CHOIR, PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br /><br />North-westward of Ely, and just on the border of the Fenland, Saxulf, a +thane of Mercia who had acquired great wealth, founded the first and +most powerful of the great Benedictine abbeys of this region in the year +655. Around this celebrated religious house has grown the town of +Peterborough, now one of the chief railway-junctions in Midland England. +The remains of the monastic buildings, and especially of the cathedral, +are magnificent, the great feature of the latter being its western +front, which was completed in the thirteenth century,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> and has three +great open arches, making probably the finest church-portico in Europe. +On the left of the cathedral is the chancel of Becket's Chapel, now a +grammar-school, while on the right is the ancient gateway of the abbot's +lodgings, which has become the entrance to the bishop's palace. The main +part of the cathedral is Norman, though portions are Early English. It +is built in the form of a cross, with a smaller transept at the western +end, while the choir terminates in an apse, and a central tower rises +from four supporting arches. Within the cathedral, over the doorway, is +a picture of old Scarlet, Peterborough's noted sexton, who buried +Catharine of Arragon and Mary Queen of Scots. The nave has an ancient +wooden roof, carefully preserved and painted with various devices. The +transept arches are fine specimens of Norman work. Queen Catharine lies +under a slab in the aisle of St. John's Chapel, but the remains of Queen +Mary were removed to Westminster Abbey by James I., to the magnificent +tomb he prepared there for his mother.</p> + + + + +<h3>CROWLAND ABBEY.</h3> + +<p>Farther northward in the Fenland, and over the border in Lincolnshire, +was the Benedictine abbey of "courteous Crowland," though its remains +are now scanty. It derives its name from the "Land of Crows," which in +this part is drained by the Welland River and the great Bedford Level. +On one of the many islands of firmer soil abounding in this oozy region +the monks constructed their monastery, but had little space for +cultivation, and brought their food from remoter possessions. Now, +Crowland is no longer an island, for the drainage has made fast land all +about, and the ruins have attracted a straggling village. Here is the +famous "triangular bridge," a relic of the abbey. Three streams met, and +the bridge was made to accommodate the monks, who, from whatever +direction they approached, had to cross one of them. The streams now are +conveyed underground, but the bridge remains like a stranded monster +which the tide has abandoned, and gives the children a play-place. Its +steep half-arches, meeting in the centre, are climbed by rough steps. +The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> dissolved abbey served as a quarry for the village, and hence on +this strange bridge and on all the houses fragments of worked stone and +of sculpture everywhere appear. It was located at the eastern end of the +village, where its ruins still stand up as a guide across the fens, seen +from afar. Most of it is in complete ruin, but the north aisle of the +nave has been sufficiently preserved to serve as the parish church of +Crowland; round about the church and the ruins extends the village +graveyard. Set up in the porch beneath the tower is a memorial for +William Hill, the sexton, who died in 1792. When forty years old he was +blinded by exposure during a snowfall, yet he lived for twenty-five +years afterwards, able to find his way everywhere and to know every +grave in the churchyard.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p255" id="p255"></a> +<img src="images/p255.jpg" width="650" height="408" alt="EAST END OF CROWLAND ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EAST END OF CROWLAND ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the earlier days of Christianity the solitudes in this Fenland had +peculiar attractions for the hermits who fled from the world to embrace +an ascetic life. Thus the islands each gradually got its hermit, and the +great monasteries grew up by degrees, starting usually in the cell of +some recluse. Guthlac, who lived in the seventh century, was of the +royal House of Mercia, and voluntarily exiled himself in the Fens. This +region was then, according to popular belief, the haunt of myriads of +evil spirits, who delighted in attacking the hermits. They assaulted +Guthlac in hosts, disturbed him by strange noises, once carried him far +away to the icy regions of the North, and not seldom took the form of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +crows, the easier to torment him; but his steady prayers and penance +ultimately put them to flight, and the existence of his cell became +known to the world. Ethelbald fled to Guthlac for refuge, and the hermit +predicted he would become king, which in time came to pass. Guthlac died +at Crowland, and the grateful king built a stone church there. The +buildings increased, their great treasure being of course the tomb of +the hermit, which became a source of many miracles. The Northmen in the +ninth century plundered and destroyed Crowland, but it was restored, and +in Edward the Confessor's time was one of the five religious houses +ruled by the powerful abbot of Peterborough. It became the shrine of +Waltheof, the Earl of Northampton beheaded for opposing William the +Conqueror, and Crowland was thus made a stronghold of English feeling +against the Normans, like the other monasteries of the Fens. Its fame +declined somewhat after the Conquest, though its hospitality was fully +maintained. It had little subsequent history. The abbey was garrisoned +by the Royalists, and captured by Cromwell in 1643, after which it fell +into ruin. Such has been the fate of almost all the religious houses in +the Fens, the merits of which the people in the olden time judged +according to a local rhyme which yet survives:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Ramsay, the bounteous of gold and of fee;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crowland, as courteous as courteous may be;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spalding the rich, and Peterborough the proud;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sawtrey, by the way, that poor abbaye,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gave more alms in one day than all they."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<h3>NORWICH.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding eastward out of the Fenland and among the hills of Norfolk, +the little river Wensum is found to have cut a broad, deep, and +trench-like valley into the chalk and gravel plateau. Upon the elevated +bank of the river is the irregularly picturesque town of Norwich, with +the castle keep rising above the undulating mass of buildings, and the +cathedral and its noble spire overtopping the lower portion of the city +on the right hand. Norwich is an ancient town, but very little is known +with certainty about it anterior to the Danish invasions. We are told +that its original location was at the more southerly castle of Caister, +whence the inhabitants migrated to the present site, for—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Caister was a city when Norwich was none,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And Norwich was built of Caister stone."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Canute held possession of Norwich and had a castle there, but the +present castle seems to date from the Norman Conquest, when it was +granted to Ralph de Quader, who turned traitor to the king, causing +Norfolk to be besieged,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> captured, and greatly injured. Then the castle +was granted to Roger Bigod. The town grew, and became especially +prosperous from the settlement there of numerous Flemish weavers in the +fourteenth century and of Walloons in Elizabeth's reign. It managed to +keep pretty well out of the Civil Wars, but a local historian says, "The +inhabitants have been saved from stagnation by the exceeding bitterness +with which all party and local political questions are discussed and +contested, and by the hearty way in which all classes throw themselves +into all really patriotic movements, when their party feeling +occasionally sleeps for a month or two." Norwich is pre-eminently a town +of churches, into the construction of which flint enters largely, it +being dressed with great skill into small roughened cubical blocks.</p> + +<p><a name="p257" id="p257"><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">NORWICH CASTLE.</span></a></p> + + +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p257.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:300px; height:110px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:640px; height:300px;"> </div> + + +<p>The great attraction of Norwich is the cathedral, which stands upon a +low peninsula enclosed by a semicircular sweep of the river, much of the +ground in this region having been originally a swamp. The cathedral is +generally approached from its western side, where there is an open space +in front of the Close called Tombland, upon which two gates open from +it. These are St. Ethelbert's and the Erpingham gate. The latter, +opposite the western front of the cathedral, is named for its builder, +"old Sir Thomas Erpingham," whose "good white head," Shakespeare tells +us, was to be seen on the field of Agincourt. The cathedral is a Norman +structure, cruciform in plan, with an exceptionally long nave, an +apsidal choir, and attached chapels. The earliest parts of it were begun +in 1096, and when partially completed five years afterwards it was +handed over to the care of the Benedictine monks. Thirty years later<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +the nave was added, but the cathedral was not completed until about +1150. Twice it was seriously injured by fire, and it was not thoroughly +restored for a century, when in 1278 it was again consecrated with great +pomp, in the presence of Edward I. and his court, on Advent Sunday. The +spire, which is one of its most conspicuous features, was added by +Bishop Percy in the fourteenth century, though, having been seriously +injured by lightning, it had to be replaced afterwards. At the same time +the building was greatly altered, its roofs raised and vaulted, and +repairs went on until 1536. Yet, with all the changes that were made in +this famous cathedral, no other in England has managed to preserve its +original plan so nearly undisturbed.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 612px;"> +<a name="p258" id="p258"></a> +<img src="images/p258.jpg" width="612" height="650" alt="NORWICH CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORWICH CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;"> +<a name="p259" id="p259"></a> +<img src="images/p259.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="NORWICH CATHEDRAL—THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORWICH CATHEDRAL—THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST.</span> +</div> + +<p>Entering the nave from the westward, this grand apartment is found to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +extend two hundred and fifty feet, and to the intersection of the +transepts comprises fourteen bays, three of them being included in the +choir. The triforium is almost as lofty as the nave-arches, and the +solidity of these, surmounted by the grandeur of the upper arcade, gives +a magnificent aspect to the nave. Above is the fine vaulted roof, the +elaborately carved bosses giving a series of scenes from sacred history +extending from the Creation to the Last Judgment. Small chapels were +originally erected against the organ-screen, one of them being dedicated +to the young St. William, a Norfolk saint who in the twelfth century was +tortured and crucified by some Jews. His body, clandestinely buried in a +wood, was found, miracles were wrought, and it was translated to the +cathedral. The Jews of Norwich were then attacked and plundered, and +these outrages were renewed a century later. But times have fortunately +changed since then. The choir extends to the eastern apse, and at the +back of the altar recent alterations have exposed an interesting relic +in a fragment of the original bishop's throne, an elevated chair of +stone placed in the middle of the apse and looking westward. On either +side are apsidal chapels. Among the monuments is that to Sir William +Boleyn, grandfather to the unfortunate Anne Boleyn. He lived at +Blickling, about thirteen miles from Norwich, where Anne is believed to +have been born. Several bishops also lie in the cathedral, and among the +later tombs is that of Dr. Moore, who died in 1779, and whose periwigged +head is in grotesque juxta<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>position with a cherub making an ugly face +and appearing to be drying his eyes with his shirt. The spire of Norwich +Cathedral rises two hundred and eighty-seven feet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p260" id="p260"></a> +<img src="images/p260.jpg" width="650" height="423" alt="NORWICH MARKET-PLACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORWICH MARKET-PLACE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Norwich Castle is a massive block of masonry crowning the summit of a +mound. Who first built it is unknown, but he is said by popular +tradition to sit buried in his chair and full armed deep down in the +centre of this mound, and "ready for all contingencies." But the castle +has degenerated into a jail, and the great square tower or keep, +ninety-five feet square and seventy feet high, is the only part of the +original structure remaining. It has been refaced with new stone, and +the interior has also been completely changed. The moat is planted with +trees, and on the outside slope the cattle-market is held every +Saturday. Norwich has some historical structures. In its grammar school +Nelson was a scholar, and his statue stands on the green. On the edge of +Tombland stands the house of Sir John Falstaff, a brave soldier and +friend of literature, whose memory is greatly prized in Norfolk, but +whose name has been forgotten by many in the shadow of Shakespeare's +"Fat Jack." The chief centre of the town, however, is the market-place, +on the slope of a hill, where modernized buildings have replaced some of +the more antique structures. Here stands the ancient Guildhall, which in +1413 replaced the old Tolbooth where the market-dues were paid. Within +is the sword surrendered to Nelson by Admiral Winthuysen at the battle +of St. Vincent, and by him presented to the chief city of his native +county of Norfolk. In the olden time<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> the glory of Norwich was the Duke +of Norfolk's palace, but it was destroyed at the end of the seventeenth +century by the then duke in a fit of anger because the mayor would not +permit his troop of players to march through the town with trumpets +blowing. Not a brick of it now stands, the site being covered with small +houses. Norwich was formerly famous for its trade in woollens, the Dutch +introducing them at the neighboring village of Worsted, whence the name. +Now, the coal-mines have aided the spinning-jenny, but the worsteds are +overshadowed by other Norwich manufactures. Colman's mustard-factories +cover ten acres, and Barnard's ornamental iron-work from Norwich is +world-renowned. Norwich also contains an enormous brewery, but in this +the city is not singular, for what is a Briton without his beer?</p> + + + +<h3>BURGHLEY HOUSE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p261" id="p261"></a> +<img src="images/p261.jpg" width="650" height="377" alt="BURGHLEY HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BURGHLEY HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>On the banks of the Welland River, a short distance above Crowland, is +Stamford, in Lincolnshire, near which is located the well-known Burghley +House, the home of Lord Treasurer Cecil, whose history is referred to in +the notice of Hatfield House. This mansion, which is a short distance +south of Stamford, is now the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, William +Allayne Cecil. It is said to have furnished the text for Lord Bacon's +"Essay on Building," it having been completed but a short time +previously. The plans of this famous house are still preserved in +London. It is a parallelogram built around an open court, with a lofty +square tower projecting from the western front, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> having octangular +turrets at the angles. The northern (which is the main) front is divided +into three compartments, and bears on the parapet 1587 as the date when +the house was finished. Within the building a long corridor, commanding +a view of the inner court, leads to a stone staircase which rises to the +top of the structure and is peculiarly decorated. There is a fine +chapel, and in an adjoining room was Giordano's renowned painting of +"Seneca Dying in the Bath," which was eulogized in Prior's poems, he +having seen it there, though it is now removed. One of the most +interesting pictures in the gallery is that of Henry Cecil, the tenth +Earl and the first Marquis of Exeter, his wife, and daughter. Tennyson +has woven the romance of their marriage into a poem. Cecil, before +coming into his title, was living in seclusion in Shropshire, and fell +in love with a farmer's daughter. He married her under an assumed name, +and only disclosed his true rank when, succeeding to his uncle's title +and estates, he became the lord of Burghley and took her home to +Burghley House. Tennyson tells how she received the disclosure:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Thus her heart rejoices greatly, till a gateway she discerns</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With armorial bearings stately, and beneath the gate she turns;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sees a mansion more majestic than all those she saw before:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Many a gallant gay domestic bows before him at the door.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And they speak in gentle murmur, when they answer to his call.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">While he treads with footstep firmer, leading on from hall to hall.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, while now she wonders blindly, nor the meaning can divine,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Proudly turns he round and kindly, 'All of this is mine and thine.'</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here he lives in state and bounty, Lord of Burghley, fair and free,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not a lord in all the county is so great a lord as he.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">All at once the color flushes her sweet face from brow to chin:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As it were with shame she blushes, and her spirit changed within.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then her countenance all over pale again as death did prove;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But he clasp'd her like a lover, and he cheer'd her soul with love."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The building has many attractive apartments, including a ball-room and +Queen Elizabeth's chamber, but it is doubted whether the maiden queen +ever visited it, though she did stay at Burghley's house in Stamford, +and here made the celebrated speech to her old minister in which she +said that his head and her purse could do anything. Burghley's eldest +son, Thomas, was created Earl of Exeter, and his descendants are now in +possession of the house. His younger son, Robert, as previously related, +was made Earl of Salisbury, and his descendants hold Hatfield House. The +apartments at Burghley are filled with historical portraits. The grand +staircase on the southern side of the house is finer than the other, but +is not so full of character. The gardens of Burghley were planned by +"Capability Brown," the same who laid out Kew.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> He imperiously overruled +King George III. in the gardening at Kew, and when he died the king is +said to have exclaimed with a sigh of relief to the under-gardener, +"Brown is dead; now you and I can do what we please here." Within St. +Martin's Church in Stamford is the canopied tomb of the lord treasurer, +constructed of alabaster, and bearing his effigy clad in armor, with the +crimson robes of the Garter; it is surrounded with the tombs of his +descendants. It was into Stamford that Nicholas Nickleby rode through +the snowstorm, and the coach stopped at the George Inn, which was a +popular hostelrie in the days of Charles II., as it still remains.</p> + +<p>North of Stamford, on the river Witham, is the interesting town of +Grantham, containing the quaint grammar-school founded by Bishop Fox of +Winchester in 1528 where Sir Isaac Newton was educated. It is recorded +by tradition that his career here was not very brilliant as a scholar—a +circumstance which may be told, if for nothing else, at least for the +encouragement of some of the school-boys of a later generation.</p> + + + +<h3>LINCOLN.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p264" id="p264"></a> +<img src="images/p264.jpg" width="650" height="585" alt="LINCOLN CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LINCOLN CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 469px;"> +<a name="p265" id="p265"></a> +<img src="images/p265.jpg" width="469" height="650" alt=""BITS" FROM LINCOLN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">"BITS" FROM LINCOLN.</span> +</div> + +<p>Continuing northward down the river Witham, we come to a point where the +stream has carved in a limestone-capped plateau a magnificent valley, +which, changing its course to the eastward, ultimately broadens on its +route to the sea into a wide tract of fenland. Here, upon a grand site +overlooking the marshes and the valley, stands the city of Lincoln, with +its cathedral crowning the top of the hill, while the town-buildings +spread down the slope to the riverbank at Brayford Pool, from which +the Witham is navigable down to Boston, near the coast, and ultimately +discharges into the Wash. The Pool is crowded with vessels and bordered +by warehouses, and it receives the ancient Fosse Dyke Canal, which was +dug by the Romans to connect the Witham with the more inland river +Trent. This was the Roman colony of Lindum, from which the present name +of Lincoln is derived, and the noble cathedral crowns the highest +ground, known as Steep Hill. William the Conqueror conferred upon Bishop +Remigius of Fecamp the see of Dorchester, and he founded in 1075 this +celebrated cathedral, which, with its three noble towers and two +transepts, is one of the finest in England. Approaching it from the +town, at the foot of the hill is encountered the Stonebow, a Gothic +gateway of the Tudor age, which serves as the guild-hall. The centre of +the western front is the oldest part of Lincoln Cathedral, and the +gateway facing it, and forming the chief entrance to the Close, is the +Exchequer Gate, an impressive structure built in the reign of Edward +III. The cathedral arcade and the lower parts of the two western<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> towers +and the western doorway were built in the twelfth century. Subsequently +an earthquake shattered the cathedral, and in the thirteenth century it +was restored and extended by Bishop Hugh of Avelon, not being finished +until 1315. The massive central tower is supported on four grand piers +composed of twenty-four shafts, and here is hung the celebrated bell of +Lincoln, "Great Tom," which was recast about fifty years ago, and weighs +five and a half tons. The transepts have splendid rose windows, +retaining the original stained glass. Lincoln's shrine was that of St. +Hugh, and his choir is surmounted by remarkable vaulting, the eastern +end of the church being extended into the Angel Choir, a beautiful +specimen of Decorated Gothic, built in 1282 to accommodate the enormous +concourse of pilgrims attracted by St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> Hugh's shrine, which stood in +this part of the building. In the cathedral is the tomb of Katherine +Swynford, wife of John of Gaunt. Adjoining the south-eastern transept +are the cloisters and chapter-house. The most ingenious piece of work of +the whole structure is the "stone beam," a bridge with a nearly flat +arch, extending between the two western towers over the nave, composed +of twenty-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>two stones, each eleven inches thick, and vibrating sensibly +when stepped upon. There is a grand view from the towers over the +neighboring country and far away down the Witham towards the sea. The +exterior of the cathedral is one of the finest specimens of architecture +in the kingdom, its porches, side-chapels, decorated doorways, +sculptured capitals, windows, cloisters, and towers admirably +illustrating every portion of the history of English architecture. Its +interior length is four hundred and eighty-two feet, the great transept +two hundred and fifty feet, and the lesser transept one hundred and +seventy feet. The western towers are one hundred and eighty feet high, +and the central tower two hundred and sixty feet, while the width of the +cathedral's noble western front is one hundred and seventy-four feet. +Upon the southern side of the hill, just below it, are the stately ruins +of the Bishop's Palace, of which the tower has recently been restored. +Bishop Hugh's ruined Great Hall is now overgrown with ivy, but the walls +can be climbed to disclose a glorious view of the cathedral.</p> + +<p>The ancient Ermine Street of the Romans enters Lincoln through the best +preserved piece of Roman masonry in England, the Newport Gate of two +arches, where on either hand may be seen fragments of the old wall. Near +the south-east corner of this originally walled area William the +Conqueror built Lincoln Castle, with its gate facing the cathedral. The +ruins are well preserved, and parts of the site are now occupied by the +jail and court-house. Within this old castle King Stephen besieged the +empress Maud, but though he captured it she escaped. Her partisans +recaptured the place, and Stephen in the second siege was made a +prisoner. It suffered many sieges in the troubled times afterwards. In +the Civil War the townspeople supported the king, but being attacked +they retreated to the castle and cathedral, which were stormed and taken +by the Parliamentary army. Afterwards the castle was dismantled. One of +the interesting remains in Lincoln is the "Jew's House," the home in the +Hebrew quarter of a Jewess who was hanged for clipping coin in the reign +of Edward I. But the noble cathedral is the crowning glory of this +interesting old city, the massive structure, with its three surmounting +towers standing on high, being visible for many miles across the country +around.</p> + + + +<h3>NOTTINGHAM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p267" id="p267"></a> +<img src="images/p267.jpg" width="550" height="467" alt="NOTTINGHAM CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NOTTINGHAM CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>We will now cross over the border from Lincoln into Nottinghamshire, +and, seeking the valley of the Trent, find upon the steep brow of a +cliff by the river the ancient castle of Nottingham, which is now +surrounded by the busy machinery of the hosiery-weavers. When it was +founded no one accurately knows, but it is believed to antedate the +Roman occupation of the island. As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> long ago as the tenth century there +was a bridge across the Trent at Snodengahame—meaning the "dwelling +among the rocks"—as it was then called, and afterwards the town +suffered from the Danes. It is also suffered during the troubled reign +of King Stephen. The castle was built by one of the Peverils soon after +the Norman Conquest, and was frequently the abode of kings. It was here +that Roger Mortimer was seized prior to being tried and hanged in +London. King David of Scotland and Owen Glendower of Wales were held +prisoners in Nottingham Castle, and from it Richard III. advanced to +meet his fate on Bosworth Field, while Charles I. set up his standard +and gathered his army at Nottingham at the opening of the Civil Wars, +the blowing down of the standard by a gale on Castle Hill being taken as +ominous of the unfortunate termination of the conflict. The old castle, +which has fallen into ruins, subsequently passed into possession of the +Duke of Newcastle, who cleared away almost the whole of the ancient +structure and built a house upon the site. The city was noted for its +manufactures as early as the reign of King John, and the hand-knitting +of stockings was introduced in the sixteenth century. Previously to that +time hosiery had been cut out of cloth, with the seams sewed up the same +as outer clothing. As early as 1589 a machine for weaving was invented, +but failing to reap a profit from it, the inventor, a clergyman, took it +to Paris, where he afterwards died broken-hearted. Ultimately, his +apprentices brought the machines back to Nottingham, improved them, and +prospered. Many improvements followed. Jedediah Strutt produced the +"Derby ribbed hose;" then the warp-loom was invented in the last +century, and the bobbin-traverse net in 1809. The knitting-machines have +been steadily improved, and now hosiery-making is carried on in +extensive factories that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> give an individuality to the town. The +rapidity with which stockings are reeled off the machines is +astonishing. An ordinary stocking is made in four pieces, which are +afterwards sewed or knitted together by another machine. Some of the +looms, however, knit the legs in one piece, and may be seen working off +almost endless woollen tubes, which are afterwards divided into +convenient lengths. Fancy hosiery is knitted according to patterns, the +setting up of which requires great skill. Vast amounts of lace are +woven, and in the factories female labor preponderates. The upper town +of Nottingham, clustering around the castle on the river-crag, has a +picturesque aspect from the valley below. Among the features of the +lower town is the market-place, a triangular area of slightly over four +acres, where the market is held every Saturday, and where once a year is +also held that great event of Nottingham, the Michaelmas goose fair. +Here also disport themselves at election-times the rougher element, who, +from their propensity to bleat when expressing disapprobation, are known +as the "Nottingham lambs," and who claim to be lineal descendants from +that hero of the neighboring Sherwood Forest, Robin Hood.</p> + + + +<h3>SOUTHWELL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p268" id="p268"></a> +<img src="images/p268.jpg" width="600" height="388" alt="SOUTHWELL MINSTER AND RUINS OF THE ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTHWELL MINSTER AND RUINS OF THE ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;"> +<a name="p269" id="p269"></a> +<img src="images/p269.jpg" width="362" height="600" alt="THE NAVE, SOUTHWELL MINSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE, SOUTHWELL MINSTER.</span> +</div> + +<p>We will now go down the valley of the Trent below Nottingham, and, +mounting the gentle hills that border Sherwood Forest, come to the +Roman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> station, Ad Pontem, of which the Venerable Bede was the +historian. Here Paulinus was baptized, and it was early made the site of +an episcopal see. The name was Sudwell at the Norman Conquest, and then +it became Southwell, and the noted minster was one of the favorite +residences of the Archbishop of York. It is a quiet, old-fashioned +place, with plenty of comfortable residences, and in a large churchyard +on ground sloping away from the main street, with the ruins of the +archbishop's palace near by, is Southwell Minster. There are few finer +examples of a Norman building remaining in England, the three towers, +nave, transepts, and chapter-house forming a majestic group. An enormous +western window has been inserted by later architects, rather to the +detriment of the gable, and this produces a singular effect. The +interior of the minster is magnificent. The Norman nave is of eight bays +with semicircular arches, surmounted by a triforium of rows of arches +almost equal to those below, and rising from piers with clustered +side-columns. It is nearly three-fourths the height of the lower stage, +and this produces a grand effect. The flat roof is modern, it and the +bells having been replaced after the church was burned in the last +century. The ruins of the archiepiscopal palace, erected six hundred +years ago, have been availed of in one portion for a dwelling-house. +Wolsey built part of it, and beneath the battlemented wall enclosing the +garden there was not long ago found the skeleton of a soldier in armor, +a relic of the Civil Wars. The name of the town is derived from its +wells. The South Well is a short distance outside the limits in a little +park. The Holy Well, which was inside the minster, is now covered up. +Lady Well was just outside the church-walls, but a clergy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>man fell into +it one dark night and was drowned, and it too has been closed. St. +Catherine's Well was surmounted by a chapel, and is in repute as a cure +for rheumatism. The ancient inn of the Saracen's Head in Southwell, not +far from the minster on the main street, witnessed the closing scene of +the Civil War. After the battle of Naseby the Scotch had reached +Southwell, and Montreville, an agent of Cardinal Mazarin, came there to +negotiate on behalf of King Charles in 1646. The Scotch commissioners +had rooms in the archiepiscopal palace, and Montreville lodged at the +Saracen's Head. After the negotiations had proceeded for some time, the +king in disguise quitted Oxford in April, and after a devious journey by +way of Newark appeared at Montreville's lodgings on May 6th. On the +south side of the inn was an apartment divided into a dining-room and +bedroom, which the king occupied, and in the afternoon, after dining +with the Scotch commissioners, he placed himself in their hands, and was +sent a prisoner to their head-quarters. The canny Scots before leaving +stripped the lead from the roof of the palace, and it afterwards fell +into ruin, so that Cromwell, who arrived subsequently, found it +uninhabitable, and then occupied the king's room at the Saracen's Head, +his horses being stabled in Southwell Minster. Southwell since has had +an uneventful history.</p> + + + +<h3>THE DUKERIES.</h3> + +<p>Nor far away is the well-known Sherwood Forest, wherein in the olden +time lived the famous forester and bandit Robin Hood. Roaming among its +spreading oaks with his robber band, he was not infrequently a visitor +to the bordering towns, sometimes for pleasure, but oftener for +"business." Who Robin was, or exactly when he lived, no one seems to +know. He is associated alike with the unsettled times of Kings John and +Richard, with Henry V. and with Jack Cade, but so much mystery surrounds +all reports of him that some do not hesitate to declare Robin Hood a +myth. But whoever he was, his memory and exploits live in many a ballad +sung along the banks of the Trent and in the towns and villages of +Sherwood Forest. His abiding-place is now divided up into magnificent +estates, the most famous of them being known as "The Dukeries." One of +them, near Ollerton, is Thoresby Hall, the splendid home of the Earl of +Manvers, a park that is ten miles in circumference. North of this is the +stately seat of the Duke of Newcastle—Clumber Park—charmingly situated +between Ollerton and Worksop. From the entrance-lodge a carriage-drive +of over a mile through the well-wooded grounds leads up to the elegant +yet homelike mansion. It is of modern construction, having been built in +1770 and received important additions since. Before that time the park +was a tract of wild woodland, but the then Duke of Newcastle improved +it, and con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>structed an extensive lake, covering ninety acres, at a cost +of $35,000. It was originally intended for a shooting-box, but this was +elaborately extended. In the centre of the west front is a colonnade, +and between the mansion and the lake are fine gardens ornamented by a +large fountain. The owner of Clumber is the lineal representative of the +family of Pelham-Clinton—which first appeared prominently in the reign +of Edward I.—and is Henry Pelham Alexander Pelham-Clinton, sixth Duke +of Newcastle. Clumber is rich in ornaments, among them being four +ancient Roman altars, but the most striking feature is the full-rigged +ship which with a consort rests upon the placid bosom of the lake.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p271" id="p271"></a> +<img src="images/p271.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="CLUMBER HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CLUMBER HALL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p272" id="p272"></a> +<img src="images/p272.jpg" width="600" height="289" alt="WELBECK ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WELBECK ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Adjoining Clumber Park is the most celebrated of "The Dukeries," Welbeck +Abbey, which is one of the remarkable estates of England, a place +peculiar to itself. The mansion is about four miles from Worksop, and +the surrounding park contains a grand display of fine old trees, beneath +which roam extensive herds of deer. Welbeck Abbey of White Canons was +founded in the reign of Henry II., and dedicated to St. James. After the +dissolution it was granted to Richard Whalley, and subsequently passed +into possession of Sir Charles Cavendish, a son of the famous Bess of +Hardwicke, whose grandson converted the abbey into an elaborate mansion, +leaving little of the original religious building standing. The present +house was constructed in the seventeenth century, its old riding-house +being completed in 1623, and William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, who +built it, was noted as the most accomplished horseman of his time. For +several generations Welbeck remained in possession of the Dukes of +Newcastle, until in the last century an only daughter and the heiress of +the abbey married William Bentinck, the Duke of Portland, thus carrying +the estate over to that family, which now possesses it. The founder of +this ducal house came over from Holland as a page of honor with King +William III. The present owner, who has just succeeded to the title, is +the sixth Duke of Portland. The chief feature of the original Welbeck, +the old riding-house, remains, but is no longer used for that purpose. +It is a grand hall, one hundred and seventy-seven feet long, with a +massive open-work tim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>ber roof of admirable design. The mansion is full +of fine apartments, many of them elaborately decorated, but it is not +from these that the estate gets its present fame. The late Duke of +Portland, who was unmarried, was an eccentric man, and he developed a +talent for burrowing underground that made his house one of the most +remarkable in England and consumed enormous sums of money. The libraries +of Welbeck, five superb rooms opening into each other, a spacious hall +adjoining, one hundred and fifty-nine feet long, the stables, large +gardens, hothouses, lodges, and other apartments, are all underground. +They have glass roofs of magnificent design. They are approached from +and connected with the rest of the mansion by subterranean passages, +and, being lofty rooms, the cost of this deep digging and of the +necessary drainage and other adjuncts may be imagined. The new riding +house, the finest in existence, and also underground, but lighted by an +arched glass roof, is three hundred and seventy-nine by one hundred and +six feet, and fifty feet high. It is elaborately ornamented, and at +night is lighted by nearly eight thousand gas-jets. Near it are the +extensive hunting-stables, coach-houses, and that marked feature of +Welbeck, the covered "gallop," one thousand and seventy-two feet long, +with large "hanging rooms" at either end: these too are covered with +glass, so as to get their light from the top. The whole place abounds in +subterranean apartments and passages, while above ground are extensive +gardens and dairies. In the gardens are the peach-wall, one thousand +feet long, a similar range of pine-houses, a fruit-arcade of ornamental +iron arches stretching nearly a quarter of a mile, with apple trees +trained on one side and pear trees on the other, and extensive beds of +flowers and plants. To construct and maintain all this curious +magnificence there are workshops on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> grand scale. This eccentric duke, +who practically denied himself to the world, and for years devoted his +time to carrying on these remarkable works at an enormous cost, employed +over two thousand persons in burrowing out the bowels of the earth and +making these grand yet strange apartments. When finished he alone could +enjoy them, for Welbeck was for a long time a sealed book to the outer +world. But the eccentric duke died, as all men must, and his successor +opened Welbeck to view and to the astonishment of all who saw it. A few +months ago the Prince of Wales and a noble company visited the strange +yet magnificent structure, and then for the first time the amazed +assemblage explored this underground palace in Sherwood Forest, and when +their wonder was satisfied they turned on the myriads of gas-jets, and +amid a blaze of artificial light indulged in a ball—an unwonted scene +for the weird old abbey of the eccentric and solitary duke. Like the +fairies and mermaids of old in their underground palaces, the prince and +his friends at Welbeck right merrily</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Held their courtly revels down, down below."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Also in this neighborhood is Newstead Abbey, the ancient seat of the +Byrons. It is about eleven miles from Nottingham, and was founded by the +Augustinians in the time of Henry II. In 1540 it came into possession of +Sir John Byron, and a century later was held for King Charles. The poet +Byron's bedroom remains almost as he left it, and on the lawn is the +monument to his favorite dog, "Boatswain." The abbey also contains +several relics of Livingstone, the African explorer. Near it is Robin +Hood's Cave, and the neighborhood is full of remains of the famous +chieftain, such as his Hill and his Chair, and Fountain Dale where Robin +encountered Friar Tuck.</p> + + + +<h3>NEWARK.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p274" id="p274"></a> +<img src="images/p274.jpg" width="600" height="471" alt="FRONT OF NEWARK CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FRONT OF NEWARK CASTLE.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p275" id="p275"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">NEWARK CASTLE AND DUNGEON.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p275.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:500px; height:190px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:240px; height:60px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:320px; height:20px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:20px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:375px; height:20px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:400px; height:20px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:425px; height:140px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:420px; height:170px;"> </div> + +<p>Descending again to the banks of the Trent, we come to the causeway +which carries over the flat meadows the Great North Road, the Roman +military route to the north of England, which made it necessary to build +a castle to hold the keys to its passage across the river. We are told +that Egbert built the earliest fortress here, but the Danes destroyed +it. Leofric, Earl of Mercia, rebuilt it, and gave the castle the name of +the "New Work." But it too fell into decay, and in 1123 the present +castle was built, which though much altered and afterwards sadly ruined, +has come down to the present time. It was here that, after his army was +swamped in the Wash, King John died, some say by poison, but the prosaic +historian attributes the sad result to over-indulgence in "unripe +peaches and new beer." In the Civil War it was a royal stronghold and +sent King Charles large numbers of recruits. Then it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> besieged by +Cromwell, but stoutly resisted, and Prince Rupert by some brilliant +manœuvres relieved it. Finally, the king sought refuge within its +walls after the defeat at Naseby, and here he was besieged by the Scotch +until his voluntary surrender to them at Southwell, when two days +afterwards, by his order, Newark capitulated to his captors. The +Parliamentary forces afterwards dismantled the castle, and it fell into +decay, but it has recently been restored as well as possible, and the +site converted into a public garden. Within the town of Newark are +several objects of interest. At the Saracen's Head Inn, which has +existed from the time of Edward III., Sir Walter Scott tells us that +Jeanie Deans slept on her journey from Midlothian to London. The most +striking part of the town is the market-square, which is very large, and +is surrounded by old and interesting houses, several of them projecting +completely over the footwalks, and having the front walls supported upon +columns—a most picturesque arrangement. One of these old houses has +windows in continuous rows in the upper stories, having between them +wooden beams and figures moulded in plaster. Through the openings +between these old houses can be seen the church, which is one of the +finest parish churches in this district, so celebrated for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> the +magnificence of its religious houses. Surmounting its Early English +tower is a spire of later date. The plan is cruciform, but with very +short transepts, not extending beyond the aisles, which are wide and +stretch the entire length of the church. There is a fine roof of carved +oak, and some of the stained glass and interior paintings are highly +prized. It was at Newark that Thomas Magnus lived and founded the +grammar-school at which the antiquarian Dr. Stukeley was educated, and +afterwards the famous Warburton, who became Bishop of Gloucester.</p></div> + + +<p style="clear: both;"> </p> +<p class="author"><span class="caption">NEWARK CHURCH, LOOKING FROM THE NORTH.</span></p> +<p><a name="p276-2" id="p276-2"></a></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p276-2.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:320px; height:110px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:280px;"> </div> + +<p>In Newark, about three hundred years ago, there was a tavern called the +"Talbot Arms," named in honor of the Earl of Shrewsbury, whose countess +was Mary, daughter of the famous Bess of Hardwicke by her second +husband, Sir William Cavendish. Between the Talbots and the neighboring +family of Stanhopes at Shelford there was a feud, which resulted in the +Stanhopes defacing the tavern-sign. This was not taken notice of by the +Earl of Shrewsbury, but the quarrel was assumed by the imperious +countess and her brother, Sir Charles Cavendish. They despatched a +messenger to Sir Thomas Stanhope, accusing him and his son of the +insult, and declaring him a "reprobate and his son John a rascal." Then +a few days later they sent a formal defiance: the Stanhopes avoided a +duel as long as possible until they began to be posted as cowards, and +then, having gone to London, whither Cavendish followed them, a duel was +arranged with the younger Stanhope at Lambeth Bridge. They met after +several delays, when it was found that Stanhope had his doublet so +thickly quilted as to be almost impenetrable to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> sword-thrust. Then +there was a new dispute, and it was proposed they should fight in their +shirts, but this Stanhope declined, pleading a cold. Cavendish offered +to lend him a waistcoat, but this too was declined; then Cavendish +waived all objections to the doublet and proposed to fight anyhow, but +the seconds interposed, and the duel was put off. Stanhope was then +again posted as a coward, and he and his adherents were hustled in the +streets of London. A few days later Stanhope and his party were attacked +in Fleet Street by the Talbots, and one of the former faction mortally +wounded. The feud went on six years, when one day, Cavendish, riding +near his home in Nottinghamshire with three attendants, was attacked by +Stanhope and twenty horsemen. He fought bravely, and was badly wounded, +but killed four and wounded two others of his opponents, when, +reinforcements appearing, the Stanhope party fled, leaving six horses +and nearly all their hats and weapons behind them. But all feuds have an +end, and this one ultimately exhausted itself, the families within a +century being united in marriage.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;"> +<a name="p276-1" id="p276-1"></a> +<img src="images/p276-1.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="MARKET-SQUARE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MARKET-SQUARE.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>HULL AND BEVERLEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p277" id="p277"></a> +<img src="images/p277.jpg" width="600" height="336" alt="THE HUMBER AT HULL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE HUMBER AT HULL.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p278-2" id="p278-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p278-2.jpg" width="450" height="436" alt="ENTRANCE-GATE, BEVERLEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE-GATE, BEVERLEY.</span> +</div> +<p>Following the Trent down to the Humber, and turning towards the sea, we +come to the noted seaport of Hull, or, as it is best known in those +parts, Kingston-upon-Hull. While not possessing great attractions for +the ordinary tourist, yet Hull ranks as the third seaport of England, +being second only to London and Liverpool. It is the great +packet-station for the north of Europe, with steam lines leading to +Holland, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Russia, and the Baltic, most of the +English trade with those countries being centred at Hull. It is a town +of extreme activity, its docks being all the time crowded with shipping, +and its location, practically upon an island, with the river Humber on +the south, the river Hull upon the east, and docks upon the northern and +western sides, giving it every maritime convenience. The docks, though +inferior to those of Liverpool, are the chief feature of the town. The +Hull River itself forms a natural dock about a mile and a half long, and +from this a chain of other docks leads through the warehouses and the +town to the Humber. Hull possesses the Trinity House, one of the three +ancient establishments in England—the others being at London and +Newcastle—which were founded first as a religious fraternity in the +fourteenth century, and became afterwards establishments for the relief +of distressed and decayed seamen and their families. The present Trinity +House building was erected in the last century. The chief ornament of +Hull is the Wilberforce Monument, a pillar of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> sandstone seventy-two +feet high, erected about a half century ago, and surmounted by a statue +of the celebrated philanthropist. He was born on High Street August 24, +1759, this being the most important thoroughfare in ancient Hull, but +now a narrow and inconvenient lane following the right bank of the Hull +River. Here were in former days the houses of the great Hull merchants, +and the Wilberforce House is about halfway down the street. It is a +curious specimen of brickwork, of a style said to have been imported +from Flanders in the reign of William and Mary. It is a low, broad house +with a surmounting tower over the doorway. Hull has little else of +interest in the way of buildings. Its Holy Trinity Church, in the +market-place, is the largest parish church in England, having recently +been thoroughly restored, and the Town Hall, built in the Italian style, +with a clock-tower, is its finest edifice of modern construction.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p278-1" id="p278-1"></a> +<img src="images/p278-1.jpg" width="500" height="413" alt="HOUSE WHERE WILBERFORCE WAS BORN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HOUSE WHERE WILBERFORCE WAS BORN.</span> +</div> + + +<p>We have now come into Yorkshire, and a few minutes' ride northward by +railway along the valley of the Hull River brings the visitor to +Beverley, an old-fashioned Yorkshire town of considerable antiquity, +eight miles from the seaport. This was anciently a walled town, but of +the entrance-gates only one survives, the North Bar, of the time of +Edward III. It is a good specimen of brick architecture, with mouldings +and niches upon the surface and battlements at the top. This is a +favorite old town for the retired merchant and tradesman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> who wish to +pass the declining years of life in quiet, and it contains many ancient +buildings of interest. Several of these are clustered around the +picturesque market-square, which is an enclosure of about four acres, +and contains a quaint cross, a relic of the time when it was customary +to build market-crosses. These ancient crosses, which were practically +canopies erected over a raised platform, were generally used as pulpits +by the preachers when conducting religious services in the open air. +Sometimes they were memorials of the dead. We are told that there were +formerly five thousand of these crosses of various kinds in England, but +most of them were destroyed in the Civil Wars. At these old crosses +proclamations used to be read and tolls collected from the +market-people. The covered market-cross at Beverley was one of the last +that was erected. The name of this interesting town is said to be +derived from Beaver Lake, the site having at one time been surrounded by +lakes that were formed by the overflowing of the Humber, in which +beavers lived in great numbers. The Beverley Minster is an attractive +Gothic church, and from the tops of its towers there is an excellent +view over the rich and almost level valley through which the Hull River +flows. Leconfield Castle, in the suburbs, was an ancient residence of +the Percys, of which the moat alone remains.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p279" id="p279"></a> +<img src="images/p279.jpg" width="500" height="399" alt="MARKET-SQUARE, BEVERLEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MARKET-SQUARE, BEVERLEY.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>SHEFFIELD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p280" id="p280"></a> +<img src="images/p280.jpg" width="550" height="441" alt="MANOR-HOUSE, SHEFFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MANOR-HOUSE, SHEFFIELD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Let us now ascend the estuary of the Humber, and, proceeding up its +numerous tributaries, seek out various places of interest in the West +Riding of Yorkshire. And first, ascending the river Don, we come to that +great manufacturing centre of the "Black Country," sacred to coal and +iron, Sheffield. Murray's <i>Guide</i> tells us that while Sheffield is one +of the largest and most important towns in Yorkshire, it is "beyond all +question the blackest, dirtiest, and least<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> respectable." Horace Walpole +in the last century wrote that Sheffield is "one of the foulest towns in +England in the most charming situation." It is a crowded city, with +narrow and badly-arranged streets, having few handsome public buildings, +but bristling with countless tall chimneys belching forth clouds of +heavy smoke that hang like a pall over the place. The Don and its +tributaries have their beds defiled, and altogether the smoky city is in +unpleasant contrast with the beauty of the surrounding country. But, +unfortunately, an omelette cannot be made without breaking eggs, nor can +Sheffield make cutlery without smoke and bad odors, all of which have +amazingly multiplied within the present century, its population having +grown from forty-five thousand in 1801 to over three hundred thousand +now. It stands at the confluence of the rivers Don and Sheaf, its name +being connected with the latter. Three smaller streams join them within +the city and are utilized for water-power. The factories spread over the +lowlands of the Don valley, and mount up its western slopes towards the +moorlands that stretch away to Derbyshire; it is therefore as hilly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> as +it is grimy. Sheffield at the time of the Norman Conquest was the manor +of Hallam, which has passed through various families, until, in the +seventeenth century, it became by marriage the property of the Duke of +Norfolk. The present duke is lord of the manor of Sheffield, and derives +a large income from his vast estates there. Sheffield Castle once stood +at the confluence of the two rivers, but all traces of it have +disappeared. The manor-house, which has been restored, dates from the +time of Henry VIII. It is three stories high, and a turret staircase +leads from floor to floor, and finally out upon the flat roof.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p281" id="p281"></a> +<img src="images/p281.jpg" width="600" height="585" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE CUTLERS' HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE CUTLERS' HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>We are told that Sheffield manufactures of metals began in the days of +the Romans, and also that Sheffield-made arrows fell thickly at Crecy +and Agincourt. Richmond used them with effect at Bosworth Field, and in +the sixteenth century we read of Sheffield knives and whittles. Almost +the only ancient building of any note the city has is the parish church, +but it is so much patched and altered that there is difficulty in +distinguishing the newer from the older parts. The chief among the +modern buildings is the Cutlers' Hall, a Grecian structure erected for +the Cutlers Company in 1833, and enlarged a few years ago by the +addition of a handsome apartment. This company, the autocrats of +Sheffield, was founded in 1624 by act of Parliament with two express +objects—to keep a check upon the number of apprentices and to examine +into the quality of Sheffield wares, all of which were to be stamped +with the warranty of their excellence. But recently the restrictive +powers of this company have been swept away, and it is now little more +than a grantor of trade-marks and an excuse for an annual banquet. +Sheffield has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> extensive markets and parks, and the Duke of Norfolk is +conspicuous in his gifts of this character to the city; but overtopping +all else are the enormous works, which make everything into which iron +and steel can be converted, from armor-plating and railway-rails down to +the most delicate springs and highly-tempered cutlery. Their products go +to every part of the world, and are of enormous value and importance.</p> + + + +<h3>WAKEFIELD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p282" id="p282"></a> +<img src="images/p282.jpg" width="500" height="424" alt="EDWARD IV.'S CHAPEL, WAKEFIELD BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EDWARD IV.'S CHAPEL, WAKEFIELD BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p283" id="p283"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p283.jpg" width="450" height="379" alt="WAKEFIELD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WAKEFIELD.</span> +</div> +<p>Upon the Calder, another tributary of the Humber, northward of the Don, +is the town of Wakefield, which, until the recent great growth of Leeds, +was the head-quarters of the Yorkshire clothing-trade. It was here that +in the Wars of the Roses the battle of Wakefield was fought on the +closing day of the year 1460. The Duke of York wished to remain at +Wakefield on the defensive against Queen Margaret's Lancastrian army of +twenty thousand men, for his forces were barely one-fourth that number. +The Earl of Salisbury, however, prevailed on him to advance to meet the +queen, and he probably had no idea of the strength she had to oppose +him. The duke was soon cut off, and was among the first to fall, his +head having afterwards been put on the Micklegate bar at York. Scenes of +great barbarity followed: the Duke of York's son, the Earl of Rutland, +was murdered with shocking cruelty after the battle on Wakefield Bridge. +Young Rutland's brother, afterwards Edward IV., erected a chapel on the +bridge on the spot where he was slain, in order that prayer might be +constantly said in it for the repose of the souls of the followers of +the White Rose who were slain in the battle. It covers thirty by +twenty-four feet, and has recently been restored by a successor of +Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield." Near the bridge the spot is pointed +out where the Duke of York<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> was killed, now marked by two willows. There +is a fine old three-gabled house in Wakefield which was built about the +same date as the battle was fought, and is now divided into small shops. +It is a good specimen of the ancient black-and-white timbered house, +though the carved work on the front has been considerably defaced. It +stands in the Kirkgate, which runs down to the Calder, and is known +locally as the "Six Chimblies."</p> + + + + + +<h3>LEEDS.</h3> + +<p><a name="p283-1" id="p283-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p283-1.jpg" width="450" height="340" alt="BRIGGATE, LOOKING NORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRIGGATE, LOOKING NORTH.</span> +</div> + +<p>About nine miles north of Wakefield is the great commercial capital of +Yorkshire and centre of the cloth-trade. Leeds, built in the valley of +the river Aire. Twelve hundred years ago this region, embracing the +valleys of the Aire and the Calder, was the independent kingdom of +Loidis. It was soon overrun and conquered, however, by the Anglian +hosts, and ultimately the conquerors built here the monastery that in +Bede's time was presided over by the abbot Thrydwulf. This stood on the +site of the present parish church, and in the eighth century it was +called "the monastery at Leeta." It stood at the crossing of two +important Roman roads in the midst of a forest. This was the beginning +of the great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> city, for soon a hamlet gathered around the monastery, +though long since the woods, and indeed all green things, were driven +away from Leeds. The village was laid waste by William the Conqueror, +and at the time of the Domesday Book it was one of one hundred and fifty +manors held by Baron Ilbert de Lacy, whose possessions stretched halfway +across Yorkshire. He built a castle at Leeds, which was afterwards a +prison of Richard II., but has long since disappeared. In 1530, Leland +described Leeds as "a pretty market-town, as large as Bradford, but not +so quick as it." Charles I. incorporated it, and the cloth-market was +then of some importance. In the Civil War it was taken by the Royalists, +and afterwards retaken by Fairfax for the Parliament in a short, sharp +struggle, in which a clergyman named Scholfield distinguished himself by +his valor, and "by his triumphant psalm-singing" as work after work was +captured from the enemy. Flemish workmen brought cloth-making into this +part of Yorkshire as early as the reign of Edward III., and two +centuries ago the cloth-makers prospered so much that they held a market +twice a week at Leeds on a long, narrow bridge crossing the Aire. They +laid their cloth on the battlements of the bridge and on benches below, +and the country clothiers could buy for four cents from the innkeepers +"a pot of ale, a noggin of porridge, and a trencher of boiled or roast +beef." This substantial supply was known as the "brigg (bridge)-shot," +and from the bridge ran the street known as the Briggate, which has +since developed into one of the finest avenues of the city.</p> + +<p><a name="p284" id="p284"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> + +<img src="images/p284.jpg" width="450" height="340" alt="ST JOHN'S CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST JOHN'S CHURCH</span> +</div> + +<p>Leeds began to grow in the last century, when it became the chief mart +of the woollen clothiers, while the worsted-trade gathered about +Bradford. These still remain the centres of the two great divisions of +the woollen industry, which is the characteristic business of Yorkshire. +The factories began then to appear at Leeds, and in the present century +the city has made astonishing advances, growing from fifty-three +thousand population in 1801 until it exceeds three hundred thousand now. +The great cloth-mart to-day is for miles a region of tall chimneys and +barrack-like edifices, within<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> which steadily roars machinery that +represents some of the most ingenious skill of the human race. Within +this hive of busy industry there still linger some memorials of the past +among its hundreds of cloth-mills. Turning out of the broad Briggate +into the quiet street of St. John, we come to the church built there by +the piety of the wealthy clothier John Harrison, and consecrated in +1634. St. John's Church, which he built and presented to the town +because the older parish church could scarce hold half the inhabitants, +consists of a long nave and chancel, with a south aisle. It is of Gothic +architecture, and much of the ancient woodwork, including the pulpit, +remains. Arabesques moulded in white plaster fill the panels between the +main roof-beams. This interesting church has undergone little historical +change excepting the recent rebuilding of the tower. John Harrison is +entombed in the church. The old parish church in Kirkgate has been +within a few years entirely rebuilt. The other churches of Leeds, like +this one, are all modern, and it also has an imposing Town Hall, opened +by the queen in 1858, in which are held the annual musical festivals, +which have attained much importance. A statue of the Duke of Wellington +stands in the open square in front. The two Cloth Halls of Leeds, the +Mixed Cloth Hall and the White Cloth Hall, where the business of selling +was at first carried on, are now little used, the trade being conducted +directly between the manufacturer and the clothier. Some of the mills +are of enormous size, and they include every operation from the raw +material to the finished fabric. But, with all their ingenious +machinery, the cloth-weavers have not yet been able to supersede the use +of the teasel, by which the loose fibres of wool are raised to the +surface to form, when cut and sheared, the pile or nap. These teasels, +which are largely grown in Yorkshire, are fastened into a cylinder, and +at least three thousand of them will be consumed in "teasling" a piece +of cloth forty yards long.</p> + + + +<h3>BOLTON ABBEY.</h3> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p286-2" id="p286-2"></a> +<img src="images/p286-2.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="THE CHURCHYARD, BOLTON ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHURCHYARD, BOLTON ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p286-1" id="p286-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 333px;"> +<img src="images/p286-1.jpg" width="333" height="450" alt="GATEWAY IN THE PRIORY, BOLTON ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY IN THE PRIORY, BOLTON ABBEY.</span> +</div> +<p>North of the valley of the Aire is the valley of the Wharfe River, and, +following that pleasant stream a short distance up, we come to Rumbald's +Moor and the water-cure establishments of the town of Ilkley, which is +an array of villas and terraces spreading up the hillside from the +southern bank of the river. The neighborhood is full of attractive +rock-and river-scenery. In the suburbs is the palace of Ben Rhydding, +built in the Scottish baronial style, with the Cow and Calf Rocks +overhanging the adjacent park. The Panorama Rock also commands a wide +prospect, while Rumbald's Moor itself is elevated over thirteen hundred +feet. A few miles from Ilkley are the celebrated ruins of Bolton Abbey, +standing on a patch of open ground, around which the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> Wharfe curves, but +with much woods clustering near the ruins and on the river-bank. Bolton +stands in a deep valley, and on the opposite side of the river rises the +steep rock of Simon's Seat, sixteen hundred feet high. The architecture +of the abbey is of various styles, the west front coming down to us from +the reign of Henry VIII., while its gateway is much older. There is no +south aisle to the abbey, and at present the nave and north aisle are +roofed in and serve as the parish church. The east end of this aisle is +divided from the rest by an ancient wooden screen so as to form a +chapel, and beneath this is the vault where the former owners of +Bolton—the Claphams and Mauleverers—were buried. Some years ago, when +the floor was being repaired, their coffins were found standing upright, +whereof the poet tells us:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Through the chinks in the fractured floor</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Look down and see a grisly sight—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A vault where the bodies are buried upright</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There, face by face and hand by hand.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Claphams and Mauleverers stand."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The ruins of the north transept are in fair preservation, and the choir +has a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> beautiful arcade, while through the openings beneath there is a +charming view of the green-bordered river and of the hills beyond. +Bolton Hall, which was the ancient gateway of the abbey, is opposite its +western front, and is one of the favorite homes in the shooting season +of the Duke of Devonshire, its owner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p287" id="p287"></a> +<img src="images/p287.jpg" width="650" height="313" alt="THE STRID." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE STRID.</span> +</div> + +<p>A pleasant walk of two miles along the Wharfe brings us to the famous +Strid, where the river is hemmed in between ledges of rock, and the +scene of the rushing waters is very fine, especially after a rain. +Beautiful paths wind along the hillsides and through the woods, and +here, where the ruins of Bardon Tower rise high above the valley, is a +favorite resort of artists. At the most contracted part of the rocky +river-passage the water rushes through a narrow trench cut out for about +sixty yards length, within which distance it falls ten feet. The noise +here is almost deafening, and at the narrowest part the distance across +is barely five feet. It looks easy to jump over, but from the peculiar +position of the slippery rocks and the confusing noise of the rushing +water it is a dangerous leap.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"This striding-place is called 'the Strid.'</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A name which it took of yore.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A thousand years hath it borne that name,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And shall a thousand more."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>It was here that young Romilly, the "Boy of Egremont," was drowned +several centuries ago, the story of his death being told by Wordsworth +in his poem of "The Force of Prayer." He had been ranging through Bardon +Wood, holding a greyhound in a leash, and tried to leap across the +Strid:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"He sprang in glee; for what cared he,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That the river was strong and the rocks were steep?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But the greyhound in the leash hung back,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And checked him in his leap.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The boy is in the arms of Wharfe,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And strangled by a merciless force;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For nevermore was young Romilly seen</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Till he rose a lifeless corse."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>It is said that his disconsolate mother built Bolton Abbey to +commemorate the death of her only son, and placed it in one of the most +picturesque spots in England.</p> + + + +<h3>RIPON AND FOUNTAINS.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 387px;"> +<a name="p288" id="p288"></a> +<img src="images/p288.jpg" width="387" height="500" alt="RIPON MINSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RIPON MINSTER.</span> +</div> + + + +<p class="author"><span class="caption">STUDLEY ROYAL PARK.</span><a name="p289" id="p289"></a></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p289.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:220px; height:233px;"> </div> + +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:250px;"> </div> + +<p>Proceeding still farther northward from the charming vale of Wharfe, we +come to the valley of the Ure, which flows into the Ouse, a main +tributary of the Humber, and to the famous cathedral-town of Ripon. This +is a place of venerable antiquity, for it has been over twelve centuries +since a band of Scotch monks came from Melrose to establish a monastery +on the sloping headland above the Ure. A portion of the ancient church +then founded is incorporated in the present Ripon Minster, which was +built seven centuries ago. It was burned and partly injured by the +Scotch in the fourteenth century, and subsequently the central tower and +greater part of the nave were rebuilt. It has recently been entirely +restored. The cathedral consists of a nave, with aisles extending the +full width of the western front, and rather broad for its length; the +transepts are short. Parallel to the choir on the southern side is a +chapter-house. It is one of the smallest cathedrals in England, being +less than two hundred and ninety feet long, and other buildings so +encompass it as to prevent a good near view. There is an ample +churchyard, but the shrine of St. Wilfrid, the founder, whose relics +were the great treasure of the church, has long since disappeared.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> It +appears that in ancient times there was great quarrelling over the +possession of his bones, and that Archbishop Odo, declaring his grave to +be neglected, carried them off to Canterbury, but after much disputing a +small portion of the saint's remains were restored to Ripon. Beneath the +corner of the nave is the singular crypt known as Wilfrid's Needle. A +long passage leads to a cell from which a narrow window opens into +another passage. Through this window we are told that women whose virtue +was doubted were made to crawl, and if they stuck by the way were +adjudged guilty. This is the oldest part of the church, and is regarded +as the most perfect existing relic of the earliest age of Christianity +in Yorkshire. The cathedral contains some interesting monuments, one of +which demonstrates that epitaph-writing flourished in times agone at +Ripon. It commemorates, as "a faint emblem of his refined taste," +William Weddell of Newby, "in whom every virtue that ennobles the human +mind was united with every elegance that adorns it."</p></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 463px;"> +<a name="p290" id="p290"></a> +<img src="images/p290.jpg" width="463" height="600" alt="THE TRANSEPT, FOUNTAINS ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TRANSEPT, FOUNTAINS ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the neighborhood of Ripon is the world-renowned Fountains Abbey, of +which the remains are in excellent preservation, and stand in a +beautiful situation on the verge of the fine estate of the Marquis of +Ripon, Studley Royal. The gates of this park are about two miles from +Ripon, the road winding among the trees, beneath which herds of deer are +browsing, and leading up to the mansion, in front of which is an +attractive scene. The little river Skell, on its way to the Ure, emerges +from a glen, and is banked up to form a lake, from which it tumbles over +a pretty cascade. The steep bank opposite is covered with trees. John +Aislabie, who had been chancellor of the exchequer, laid out this park +in 1720,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> and such repute did his ornamental works attain that Studley +was regarded as the most embellished spot in the North of England. +Ultimately, through heiresses, it passed into the hands of the present +owner. The pleasure-grounds were laid out in the Dutch style then in +vogue, and the slopes of the valley were terraced, planted with +evergreens, and adorned with statues. Modern landscape-gardening has +somewhat varied the details, but the original design remains. In the +gardens are the Octagon Tower, perched upon a commanding knoll, the +Temple of Piety, near the water-side, and an arbor known as Anne +Boleyn's Seat, which commands a superb view over Fountains Dale. Let us +enter this pretty glen, which gradually narrows, becomes more abrupt and +rocky, and as we go along the Skell leads us from the woods out upon a +level grassy meadow, at the end of which stand the gray ruins of the +famous Cistercian abbey. The buildings spread completely across the glen +to its craggy sides on either hand. On the right there is only room for +a road to pass between the transept and the limestone rock which rears +on high the trees rooted in its crannies, whose branches almost brush +the abbey's stately tower. On the other side is the little river, with +the conventual buildings carried across it in more than one place, the +water flowing through a vaulted tunnel. These buildings extend to the +bases of the opposite crags. The ruins are of great size, and it does +not take much imagination to restore the glen to its aspect when the +abbey was in full glory seven or eight hundred years ago. Its founders +came hither almost as exiles from York, and began building the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> abbey in +the twelfth century, but it was barely completed when Henry VIII. forced +the dissolution of the monasteries. It was very rich, and furnished rare +plunder when the monks were compelled to leave it. The close or +immediate grounds of the abbey contained about eighty acres, entered by +a gate-house to the westward of the church, the ruins of which can still +be seen. Near by is an old mill alongside the Skell, and a picturesque +bridge crosses the stream, while on a neighboring knoll are some ancient +yews which are believed to have sheltered the earliest settlers, and are +called the "Seven Sisters." But, unfortunately, only two now remain, +gnarled and twisted, with decaying trunks and falling limbs—ruins in +fact that are as venerable as Fountains Abbey itself. Botanists say they +are twelve hundred years old, and that they were full-grown trees when +the exiles from York first encamped alongside the Skell.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 504px;"> +<a name="p291" id="p291"></a> +<img src="images/p291.jpg" width="504" height="650" alt="FOUNTAINS TOWER AND CRYPT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FOUNTAINS TOWER AND CRYPT.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p292" id="p292"></a> +<img src="images/p292.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="FOUNTAINS HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FOUNTAINS HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Entering the close, the ruins of the abbey church are seen in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> better +preservation than the other buildings. The roof is gone, for its +woodwork was used to melt down the lead by zealous Reformers in the +sixteenth century, and green grass has replaced the pavement. The ruins +disclose a noble temple, the tower rising one hundred and sixty-eight +feet. In the eastern transept is the beautiful "Chapel of the Nine +Altars" with its tall and slender columns, some of the clustering shafts +having fallen. For some distance southward and eastward from the church +extend the ruins of the other convent-buildings. In former times they +were used as a stone-quarry for the neighborhood, many of the walls +being levelled to the ground, but since the last century they have been +scrupulously preserved. The plan is readily traced, for excavations have +been made to better display the ruins. South of the nave of the church +was the cloister-court. On one side was the transept and chapter-house, +and on the other a long corridor supporting the dormitory. This was one +hundred yards long, extending across the river, and abutting against the +crags on the other side. South of the cloister-court was the refectory +and other apartments. To the eastward was a group of buildings +terminating in a grand house for the abbot, which also bridged the +river. All<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> these are now in picturesque ruin, the long corridor, with +its vaulted roof supported by a central row of columns with broad +arches, being considered one of the most impressive religious remains in +England. One of the chief uses to which the Fountains Abbey stone-quarry +was devoted was the building, in the reign of James I., of a fine +Jacobean mansion as the residence for its then owner, Sir Stephen +Proctor. This is Fountains Hall, an elaborate structure of that period +which stands near the abbey gateway, and to a great extent atones, by +its quaint attractiveness, for the vandalism that despoiled the abbey to +furnish materials for its construction. In fact, the mournful reflection +is always uppermost in viewing the remains of this famous place that it +would have been a grand old ruin could it have been preserved, but the +spoilers who plundered it for their own profit are said to have +discovered, in the fleeting character of the riches thus obtained, that +ill-gotten gains never prosper.</p> + + + +<h3>RICHMOND CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p293" id="p293"></a> +<img src="images/p293.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="RICHMOND CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RICHMOND CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Proceeding northward from Ripon, and crossing over into the valley of +the river Swale, we reach one of the most picturesquely located towns of +England—Richmond, whose great castle is among the best English remains +of the Norman era. The river flows over a broken and rocky bed around +the base of a cliff, and crowning the precipice above is the great +castle, magnificent even in decay. It was founded in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> reign of +William the Conqueror by Alan the Red, who was created Earl of Richmond, +and it covers a space of about five acres on a rock projecting over the +river, the prominent tower of the venerable keep being surrounded by +walls and buildings. A lane leads up from the market-place of the town +to the castle-gate, alongside of which are Robin Hood's Tower and the +Golden Tower, the latter named from a tradition of a treasure being once +found there. The Scolland's Hall, a fine specimen of Norman work, +adjoins this tower. The keep is one hundred feet high and furnished with +walls eleven feet thick, time having had little effect upon its noble +structure, one of the most perfect Norman keep-towers remaining in +England. There is a grand view from the battlements over the romantic +valley of the Swale. In the village is an old gray tower, the only +remains of a Franciscan monastery founded in the thirteenth century, and +the ruins of Easby Abbey, dating from the twelfth century, are not far +away; its granary is still in use. The valley of the Swale may be +pursued for a long distance, furnishing constant displays of romantic +scenery, or, if that is preferred, excellent trout-fishing.</p> + + + +<h3>YORK.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p294" id="p294"></a> +<img src="images/p294.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="THE MULTANGULAR TOWER AND ST. MARY'S ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MULTANGULAR TOWER AND ST. MARY'S ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>From the high hills in the neighborhood of Fountains Dale there is a +magnificent view over the plain of York, and we will now proceed down +the valley of the Ouse to the venerable city that the Romans called +Eboracum, and which is the capital of a county exceeding in extent many +kingdoms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> and principalities of Europe. This ancient British stronghold +has given its name to the metropolis of the New World, but the modern +Babylon on the Hudson has far outstripped the little city on the equally +diminutive Ouse. It was Ebrane, the king of the Brigantes, who is said +to have founded York, but so long ago that he is believed a myth. +Whatever its origin, a settlement was there before the Christian era, +but nothing certain is known of it beyond the fact that it existed when +the Romans invaded Britain and captured York, with other strongholds, in +the first century of the Christian era. Eboracum was made the +head-quarters of their fifth legion, and soon became the chief city of a +district now rich in the relics of the Roman occupation, their dead +being still found thickly buried around the town. Portions of the walls +of Eboracum remain, among them being that remarkable relic, the tower, +polygonal in plan, which is known as the Multangular Tower, and which +marks the south-western angle of the ancient Roman city. Not far away +are the dilapidated ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, once one of the +wealthiest and proudest religious houses in the North of England, but +with little now left but portions of the foundations, a gateway, and the +north and west walls of the nave. This abbey was founded in the eleventh +century, and it was from here that the exiled monks who built Fountains +Abbey were driven out. This ruin has been in its present condition for +nearly two hundred and fifty years.</p> + +<p>For over three centuries Eboracum was a great Roman city. Here came the +emperor Severus and died in 211, his body being cremated and the ashes +conveyed to Rome. When the empire was divided, Britain fell to the share +of Constantius Chlorus, and he made Eboracum his home, dying there in +305. Constantine the Great, his son, was first proclaimed emperor at +Eboracum. When the Romans departed evil days fell upon York; the +barbarians destroyed it, and it was not till 627 that it reappeared in +history, when Eadwine, King of Northumbria, was baptized there by St. +Paulinus on Easter Day, a little wooden church being built for the +purpose. Then began its ecclesiastical eminence, for Paulinus was the +first Archbishop of York, beginning a line of prelates that has +continued unbroken since. In the eighth century the Northmen began their +incursions, and from spoilers ultimately became settlers. York +prospered, being thronged with Danish merchants, and in the tenth +century had thirty thousand population. In King Harold's reign the +Northmen attacked and captured the town, when Harold surprised and +defeated them, killing their leader Tostig, but no sooner had he won the +victory than he had to hasten southward to meet William the Norman, and +be in turn vanquished and slain. York resisted William, but he +ultimately conquered the city and built a castle there, but being +rebellious the people attacked the castle. He returned and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> chastised +them and built a second castle on the Ouse; but the discontent deepened, +and a Danish fleet appearing in the Humber there was another rebellion, +and the Norman garrison firing the houses around the castle to clear the +ground for its better defence, the greater part of the city was +consumed. While this was going on the Danes arrived, attacked and +captured both castles, slaughtered their entire garrisons of three +thousand men, and were practically unopposed by the discontented people. +Then it was that the stalwart Norman William swore "by the splendor of +God" to avenge himself on Northumbria, and, keeping his pledge, he +devastated the entire country north of the Humber.</p> + +<p>York continued to exist without making much history for several +centuries, till the Wars of the Roses came between the rival houses of +York and Lancaster. In this York bore its full part, but it was at first +the Lancastrian king who was most frequently found at York, and not the +duke who bore the title. But after Towton Field, on Palm Sunday, March +29, 1461, the most sanguinary battle ever fought in England, one hundred +thousand men being engaged, the news of their defeat was brought to the +Lancastrian king Henry and Queen Margaret at York, and they soon became +fugitives, and their youthful adversary, the Duke of York, was crowned +Edward IV. in York Minster. In the Civil War it was in York that Charles +I. took refuge, and from that city issued his first declaration of war +against the Parliament. For two years York was loyal to the king, and +then the fierce siege took place in which the Parliamentary forces +ruined St. Mary's Abbey by undermining and destroying its tower. Prince +Rupert raised this siege, but the respite was not long. Marston Moor saw +the king defeated, Rupert's troopers being, as the historian tells us, +made as "stubble to the swords of Cromwell's Ironsides." The king's +shattered army retreated to York, was pursued, and in a fortnight York +surrendered to the Parliamentary forces. The city languished afterwards, +losing its trade, and developing vast pride, but equal poverty. Since +the days of railways, however, it has become a very important junction, +and has thus somewhat revived its activity.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p298" id="p298"></a> +<img src="images/p298.jpg" width="600" height="589" alt="YORK MINSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">YORK MINSTER.</span> +</div> + + +<p class="author"><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">MICKLEGATE BAR—THE RED TOWER</span><a name="p297" id="p297"></a></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p297.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:250px; height:180px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:100px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:600px; height:300px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:450px; height:100px;"> </div> + + +<p>The walls of York are almost as complete as those of Chester, while its +ancient gateways are in much better preservation. The gateways, called +"bars," are among the marked features of the city, and the streets +leading to them are called "gates." The chief of these is Micklegate, +the highroad leading to the south, the most important street in York, +and Micklegate Bar is the most graceful in design of all, coming down +from Tudor days, with turrets and battlements pierced with cross-shaped +loopholes and surmounted by small stone figures of warriors. It was on +this bar that the head of the Duke of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> York was exposed, and the ghastly +spectacle greeted his son, Edward IV., as he rode into the town after +Towton Field. It did not take long to strike off the heads of several +distinguished prisoners and put them in his place as an expiatory +offering. Here also whitened the heads of traitors down to as late as +the last Jacobite rebellion. One of the buttresses of the walls of York +is the Red Tower, so called from the red brick of which it is built. +These walls and gates are full of interesting relics of the olden time, +and they are still preserved to show the line of circumvallation of the +ancient walled city. But the chief glory of York is its famous minster, +on which the hand of time has been lightly laid. When King Eadwine was +baptized in the little wooden church hastily erected for the purpose, he +began building at the same place, at the suggestion of Paulinus, a large +and more noble basilica of stone, wherein the little church was to be +included. But before it was completed the king was slain, and his head +was brought to York and buried in the portico of the basilica. This +church fell into decay, and was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> burned in the eighth century. On its +site was built a much larger minster, which was consumed in William the +Conqueror's time, when the greater part of York was burned. From its +ashes rose the present magnificent minster, portions of which were +building from the eleventh to the fifteenth century, it being completed +as we now see it in 1470, and reconsecrated as the cathedral of St. +Peter with great pomp in 1472. Its chief treasure, was the shrine of St. +William, the nephew of King Stephen, a holy man of singularly gentle +character. When he came into York it is said the pressure of the crowd +was so great that it caused the fall of a bridge over the Ouse, but the +saint by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> miracle saved all their lives. The shrine was destroyed at +the Reformation, and the relics buried in the nave, where they were +found in the last century. York Minster remained almost unchanged until +1829, when a lunatic named Martin concealed himself one night in the +cathedral and set fire to the woodwork of the choir, afterwards escaping +through a transept-window. The fire destroyed the timber roofs of the +choir and nave and the great organ. Martin was arrested, and confined in +an asylum until he died. The restoration cost $350,000, and had not long +been completed when some workmen accidentally set fire to the +south-western tower, which gutted it, destroyed the bells, and burned +the roof of the nave. This mischief cost $125,000 to repair, and the +southern transept, which was considered unsafe, has since been partially +rebuilt.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="p299" id="p299"></a> +<img src="images/p299.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="CHOIR OF YORK MINSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHOIR OF YORK MINSTER.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p300" id="p300"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p300.jpg" width="450" height="443" alt="TOMB OF ARCHBISHOP WALTER DE GREY, YORK MINSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TOMB OF ARCHBISHOP WALTER DE GREY, YORK MINSTER.</span> +</div> +<p>Few English cathedrals exceed York Minster in dignity and massive +grandeur. It is the largest Gothic church in the kingdom, and contains +one of the biggest bells. "Old Peter," weighing ten and three-quarter +tons, and struck regularly every day at noon. The minster is five +hundred and twenty-four feet long, two hundred and twenty-two feet wide, +ninety-nine feet high in the nave, and its towers rise about two hundred +feet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> the central tower being two hundred and twelve feet high. Its +great charms are its windows, most of them containing the original +stained glass, some of it nearly six hundred years old. The east window +is the largest stained-glass window in the world, seventy-seven by +thirty-two feet, and of exquisite design, being made by John Thornton of +Coventry in 1408, who was paid one dollar per week wages and got a +present of fifty dollars when he finished it. At the end of one transept +is the Five Sisters Window, designed by five nuns, each planning a tall, +narrow sash; and a beautiful rose-window is at the end of the other +transept. High up in the nave the statue of St. George stands on one +side defying the dragon, who pokes out his head on the other. Its tombs +are among the minster's greatest curiosities. The effigy of Archbishop +Walter de Grey, nearly six hundred and fifty years old, is stretched out +in an open coffin lying under a superb canopy, and the corpse instead of +being in the ground is overhead in the canopy. All the walls are full of +memorial tablets—a few modern ones to English soldiers, but most of +them ancient. Strange tombs are also set in the walls, bearing effigies +of the dead. Sir William Gee stands up with his two wives, one on each +side, and his six children—all eight statues having their hands folded. +Others sit up like Punch and Judy, the women dressed in hoops, +farthingales, and ruffs, the highest fashions of their age. Here is +buried Wentworth, second Earl of Strafford, and scores of archbishops. +The body of the famous Hotspur is entombed in the wall beneath the great +east window. Burke's friend Saville is buried here, that statesman +having written his epitaph. The outside of the minster has all sorts of +grotesque protuberances, which, according to the ancient style of +church-building, represent the evil spirits that religion casts out. +Adjoining the north transept, and approached through a beautiful +vestibule, is the chapter-house, an octagonal building sixty-three feet +in diameter and surmounted by a pyramidal roof. Seven of its sides are +large stained-glass windows, and the ceiling is a magnificent work.</p> + + + + +<p class="author"><a name="p301" id="p301"></a><span class="caption">CLIFFORD'S TOWER.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p301.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:640px; height:290px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:380px; height:170px;"> </div> + + +<p>York Castle occupied a peninsula between the Ouse and a branch called +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> Foss. Of this Clifford's Tower is about all of the ancient work +that remains. It rises on its mound high above the surrounding +buildings, and was the keep of the ancient fortress, constructed +according to a remarkable and unique plan, consisting of parts of four +cylinders running into each other. It dates from Edward I., but the +entrance was built by Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, its governor under +Charles I. The interior of the tower was afterwards burned, and George +Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, who was imprisoned there, +planted a walnut tree within the tower which is still growing. It was in +the keep of the Norman castle, which this tower replaced, that the +massacre of the Jews, which grew out of race-jealousy at their great +wealth, occurred in 1190. On March 16th the house of Benet, the leading +Jew in York, was sacked by a mob and his wife and children murdered. +Five hundred of his countrymen then sought refuge in the castle, and +those who remained outside were killed. The mob besieged the castle, led +by a hermit from the neighborhood "famed for zeal and holiness," who was +clothed in white robes, and each morning celebrated mass and inflamed +the fury of the besiegers by his preaching. At last he ventured too near +the walls, and was brained by a stone. Battering-rams were then brought +up, and a night's carouse was indulged in before the work of knocking +down the castle began. Within was a different scene: the Jews were +without food or hope. An aged rabbi, who had come as a missionary from +the East, and was venerated almost as a prophet, exhorted his brethren +to render up freely their lives to God rather than await death at the +enemy's hands. Nearly all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> decided to follow his counsel; they fired the +castle, destroyed their property, killed their wives and children, and +then turned their swords upon themselves. Day broke, and the small +remnant who dared not die called from the walls of the blazing castle +that they were anxious for baptism and "the faith and peace of Christ." +They were promised everything, opened the gates, and were all massacred. +In later years York Castle has enclosed some well-known prisoners, among +them Eugene Aram, and Dick Turpin, who was hanged there. The York +elections and mass-meetings are held in the courtyard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span></p> +</div> + +<p class="author"><a name="p302" id="p302"></a><span class="caption">THE SHAMBLES.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p302.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:300px; height:290px;"> </div> + + +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here Wilberforce, who long represented York in Parliament, spoke in +1784, when Boswell wrote of him: "I saw what seemed a mere shrimp mount +upon the table, but as I listened he grew and grew until the shrimp +became a whale." The York streets are full of old houses, many with +porches and overhanging fronts. One of the most curious rows is the +Shambles, on a narrow street and dating from the fourteenth century. A +little way out of town is the village of Holgate, which was the +residence of Lindley Murray the grammarian. Guy Fawkes is said to have +been a native of York, and this strange and antique old city, we are +also credibly assured, was in 1632 the birthplace of Robinson Crusoe.</p> +<p style="clear: both;"> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p> +</div> + +<h3>CASTLE HOWARD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p303" id="p303"></a> +<img src="images/p303.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="CASTLE HOWARD, SOUTH FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CASTLE HOWARD, SOUTH FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<p>Starting north-east from York towards the coast, we go along the pretty +valley of the Derwent, and not far from the borders of the stream come +to that magnificent pile, the seat of the Earls of Carlisle—Castle +Howard. More than a century ago Walpole wrote of it: "Lord Strafford had +told me that I should see one of the finest places in Yorkshire, but +nobody had informed me that I should at one view see a palace, a town, a +fortified city: temples on high<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> places; woods worthy of being each a +metropolis of the Druids; vales connected to hills by other woods; the +noblest lawn in the world, fenced by half the horizon; and a mausoleum +that would tempt one to be buried alive. In short, I have seen gigantic +places before, but never a sublimer one." Castle Howard was the work of +Vanbrugh, the designer of Blenheim, and in plan is somewhat similar, but +much more sober and simple, with a central cupola that gives it dignity. +It avoids many of the faults of Blenheim: its wings are more subdued, so +that the central colonnade stands out to greater advantage, and there +are few more imposing country-houses in England than this palace of the +Howards. This family are scions of the ducal house of Norfolk, so that +"all the blood of all the Howards," esteemed the bluest blood in the +kingdom, runs in their veins. The Earls of Carlisle are descended from +"Belted Will"—Lord William Howard, the lord warden of the Marches in +the days of the first Stuart—whose stronghold was at Naworth Castle, +twelve miles north-east of Carlisle. His grandson took an active part in +the restoration of Charles II., and in recompense was created the first +Earl of Carlisle. His bones lie in York Minster. His grandson, the third +earl, who was deputy earl-marshal at the coronation of Queen Anne, built +Castle Howard. The seventh earl, George William Frederick, was for eight +years viceroy in Ireland, resigning in 1864 on account of ill-health; +and it is said that he was one of the few English rulers who really won +the affections of the people of that unhappy country. He died soon +afterwards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"> +<a name="p304" id="p304"></a> +<img src="images/p304.jpg" width="271" height="500" alt="THE OBELISK, CASTLE HOWARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE OBELISK, CASTLE HOWARD.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p305" id="p305"></a> +<img src="images/p305.jpg" width="600" height="313" alt="THE TEMPLE, WITH THE MAUSOLEUM IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TEMPLE, WITH THE MAUSOLEUM IN THE DISTANCE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Leaving the railway-station in the valley of the Derwent, and mounting +the hills to the westward, a little village is reached on the confines +of the park. Beyond the village the road to the park-gates passes +through meadow-land, and is bordered by beautiful beech trees arranged +in clusters of about a dozen trees in each, producing an unusual but +most happy effect. The gateway is entered, a plain building in a +castellated wall—this being Walpole's "fortified city"—and, proceeding +up a slope, the fine avenue of beeches crosses another avenue of lime +trees. Here is placed an obelisk erected in honor of John Churchill, +Duke of Marlborough, which also bears an inscription telling of the +erection of Castle Howard. It recites that the house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> was built on the +site of the old castle of Hinderskelf, and was begun in 1702 by Charles, +the third Earl of Carlisle, who set up this inscription in 1731. The +happy earl, pleased with the grand palace and park he had created, thus +addresses posterity on the obelisk:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If to perfection these plantations rise,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">If they agreeably my heirs surprise,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This faithful pillar will their age declare</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As long as time these characters shall spare.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Here, then, with kind remembrance read his name</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Who for posterity performed the same."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The avenue then leads on past the north front of the castle, standing in +a fine situation upon a ridge between two shallow valleys. The bed of +the northern valley has been converted into a lake, while on the +southern slopes are beautiful and extensive lawns and gardens. The house +forms three sides of a hollow square, and within, it is interesting in +pictures and ornaments. It is cut up, however, into small rooms and +long, chilly corridors, which detract from its good effect. The +entrance-hall is beneath the central dome and occupies the whole height +of the structure, but it is only about thirty-five feet square, giving a +sense of smallness. Frescoes decorate the walls and ceilings. The public +apartments, which are in several suites opening into each other and +flanked by long corridors, are like a museum, so full are they of rare +works of art, china, glass, and paintings. Much of the collection came +from the Orleans Gallery. There are also many portraits in black and red +chalk by Janet, a French artist who flourished in the sixteenth century. +Some of the paintings are of great value, and are by Rubens, Caracci, +Canaletti, Tintoretto, Titian, Hogarth, Bellini, Mabuse, Holbein, Lely, +Vandyke, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and others. The Castle Howard +collection is exceptionally valuable in historical portraits. The +windows of the drawing-room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> look out upon extensive flower-gardens, +laid out in rather formal style with antique vases and statues. Beyond +these gardens is seen a circular temple placed upon a knoll, the +"mausoleum" which so moved Walpole. Here the former owners of the castle +are buried, a constant <i>memento mori</i> to the tenants of the house, +though the taste certainly seems peculiar that has made the family tomb +the most prominent object in the view from the drawing-room windows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p306" id="p306"></a> +<img src="images/p306.jpg" width="450" height="425" alt="GATEWAY, KIRKHAM PRIORY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY, KIRKHAM PRIORY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Not far from Castle Howard are the ruins of Kirkham Priory. A charming +fragment of this noble church remains in a grassy valley on the margin +of the Derwent. Here, nearly eight hundred years ago, the Augustinians +established the priory, the founder being Sir Walter l'Espec, one of the +leaders of the English who drove back King David's Scottish invasion at +the battle of the Standard, near Durham. Sir Walter had an only son, who +was one day riding near the site of Kirkham when a wild boar suddenly +rushed across his path. The horse plunged and threw his rider, who, +striking head-foremost against a projecting stone, was killed. Sir +Walter, being childless, determined to devote his wealth to the service +of God, and founded three religious houses—one in Bedfordshire, another +at Rievaulx, where he sought refuge from his sorrows, and the third at +the place of his son's death at Kirkham. Legend says that the youth was +caught by his foot in the stirrup when thrown, and was dragged by his +runaway horse to the spot where the high altar was afterwards located. +Sir Walter's sister married into the family of De Ros, among the +ancestors of the Dukes of Rutland, and they were patrons of Kirkham +until the dissolution of the monasteries. Little remains of it: the +gate-house still stands, and in front is the base of a cross said to +have been made from the stone against which the boy was thrown. +Alongside this stone they hold a "bird-fair" every summer, where +jackdaws, starlings, and other birds are sold, with a few rabbits thrown +in; but the fair now is chiefly an excuse for a holiday. The church was +three hundred feet long, with the convent-buildings to the southward, +but only scant ruins remain. Beyond the ruins, at the edge of the +greensward, the river glides along under a gray stone bridge. At +Howsham, in the neighborhood, Hudson the railway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> king was born, and at +Foston-le-Clay Sydney Smith lived, having for his friends the Earl and +Countess of Carlisle of that day, who made their first call in a gold +coach and got stuck fast in the clay. Here the witty vicar resided, +having been presented to a living, and built himself a house, which he +described as "the ugliest in the county," but admitted by all critics to +be "one of the most comfortable," though located "twenty miles from a +lemon." Subsequently Smith left here for Somersetshire.</p> + + + +<h3>SCARBOROUGH AND WHITBY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p308" id="p308"></a> +<img src="images/p308.jpg" width="600" height="302" alt="SCARBOROUGH SPA AND ESPLANADE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCARBOROUGH SPA AND ESPLANADE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The coast of Yorkshire affords the boldest and grandest scenery on the +eastern shore of England. A great protruding backbone of chalk rocks +projects far into the North Sea at Flamborough Head, and makes one of +the most prominent landmarks on all that rugged, iron-bound coast. This +is the Ocellum Promontorium of Ptolemy, and its lighthouse is three +hundred and thirty feet above the sea, while far away over the waters +the view is superb. From Flamborough Head northward beyond Whitby the +coast-line is a succession of abrupt white cliffs and bold headlands, +presenting magnificent scenery. About twenty-three miles north of +Flamborough is the "Queen of Northern Watering-places," as Scarborough +is pleased to be called, where a bold headland three hundred feet high +juts out into the North Sea for a mile, having on each side semicircular +bays, each about a mile and a quarter wide. At the extreme point of the +lozenge-shaped promontory stands the ruined castle which named the town +Scar-burgh, with the sea washing the rocky base of its foundations on +three sides. Steep cliffs run precipitously down to the narrow beach +that fringes these bays around, and on the cliffs is the town of +Scarborough, while myriads of fishing-vessels cluster about the +breakwater-piers that have been constructed to make a harbor of refuge. +It would be difficult to find a finer situation, and art has improved it +to the utmost, especially as mineral springs add the attractions of a +spa to the sea air and bathing. The old castle, battered by war and the +elements, is a striking ruin, the precipitous rock on which it stands +being a natural fortress. The Northmen when they first invaded Britain +made its site their stronghold, but the present castle was not built +until the reign of King Stephen, when its builder, William le Gros, Earl +of Albemarle, was so powerful in this part of Yorkshire that it was said +he was "in Stephen's days the more real king." But Henry II. compelled +the proud earl to submit to his authority, though "with much searching +of heart and choler," and Scarborough afterwards became one of the royal +castles, Edward I. in his earlier years keeping court there. It was +there that Edward II. was besieged and his favorite Gaveston starved +into surrender, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> then beheaded on Blacklow Hill in violation of the +terms of his capitulation. Scarborough was repeatedly attacked by the +Scotch, but it subsequently enjoyed an interval of peace until the +Reformation. In Wyatt's rebellion his friends secured possession of the +castle by stratagem. A number of his men, disguised as peasants, on +market-day strolled one by one into the castle, and then at a given +signal overpowered the sentinels and admitted the rest of their band. +The castle, however, was soon recaptured from the rebels, and Thomas +Stafford, the leader in this enterprise, was beheaded. From this event +is derived the proverb of a "Scarborough warning"—a word and a blow, +but the blow first. In Elizabeth's reign Scarborough was little else but +a fishing-village, and so unfortunate that it appealed to the queen for +aid. In the Civil War the castle was held by the Royalists, and was +besieged for six months. While the guns could not reduce it, starvation +did, and the Parliamentary army took possession. Three years later the +governor declared for the king, and the castle again stood a five +months' siege, finally surrendering. Since then it has fallen into +decay, but it was a prison-house for George Fox the Quaker, who was +treated with severity there. A little way down the hill are the ruins of +the ancient church of St. Mary, which has been restored.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p309" id="p309"></a> +<img src="images/p309.jpg" width="650" height="447" alt="SCARBOROUGH FROM THE SEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCARBOROUGH FROM THE SEA.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>The cliffs on the bay to the south of Castle Hill have been converted +into a beautifully-terraced garden and promenade. Here, amid flowers and +summer houses and terraced walks, is the fashionable resort, the +footpaths winding up and down the face of the cliffs or broadening into +the gardens, where music is provided and there are nightly +illuminations. Millions of money have been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> expended in beautifying the +front of the cliffs adjoining the Spa, which is on the seashore, and to +which Scarborough owed its original fame as a watering-place. The +springs were discovered in 1620, and by the middle of the last century +had become fashionable, but the present ornamental Spa was erected only +about forty years ago. There is a broad esplanade in front. There are +two springs, one containing more salt, lime, and magnesia sulphates than +the other. In the season, this esplanade—in fact, the entire front of +the cliffs—is full of visitors, while before it are rows of little +boxes on wheels, the bathing-houses that are drawn into the water. The +surf is usually rather gentle, however, though the North Sea can knock +things about at a lively rate in a storm.</p> + +<p>North of Scarborough the coast extends, a grand escarpment of cliffs and +headlands, past Robin Hood's Bay, with its rocky barriers, the North +Cheek and the South Cheek, to the little harbor of another +watering-place, Whitby. The cliffs here are more precipitous and the +situation even more picturesque than at Scarborough. The river Esk has +carved a deep glen in the Yorkshire moorland, and in this the town +nestles, climbing the steep banks on either side of the river. The ruins +of Whitby Abbey are located high up on the side of the ravine opposite +to the main part of the town, and they still present a noble if +dilapidated pile. The nave fell after a storm in the last century, and a +similar cause threw down the central tower in 1830. The choir and +northern transept are still standing, extremely beautiful Early English +work: only fragments of other portions of the abbey remain. This was in +olden times the Westminster of Northumbria, containing the tombs of +Eadwine and of Oswy, with kings and nobles grouped around them. It has +been over twelve hundred years since a religious house was founded at +Whitby, at first known as the White Homestead, an outgrowth of the +abbey, which was founded by Oswy and presided over by the sainted Hilda, +who chose the spot upon the lonely crags by the sea. The fame of Whitby +as a place of learning soon spread, and here lived the cowherd Cædmon, +the first English poet. The Danes sacked and burned it but after the +Norman Conquest, under the patronage of the Percies, the abbey grew in +wealth and fame. Fragments of the monastery yet remain, and on the hill +a little lower down is the parish church, with a long flight of steps +leading up to it from the harbor along which the people go, and when +there is a funeral the coffin has to be slung in order to be carried up +the steps. Whitby is famous for its jet, which is worked into numerous +ornaments: this is a variety of fossil wood, capable of being cut and +taking a high polish. It is also celebrated for its production of +iron-ore, which indeed is a product of all this part of Yorkshire; while +at night, along the valley of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> Tees, not far north of Whitby, the +blaze of the myriads of furnaces light up the heavens like the fire of +Vesuvius in the Bay of Naples. Among the tales of the abbey is that +which</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"Whitby's nuns exulting told,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How to their house three barons bold</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Must menial service do."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p311" id="p311"></a> +<img src="images/p311.jpg" width="450" height="449" alt="WHITBY ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WHITBY ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>It appears that three gentlemen—De Bruce, De Percy, and Allaston—were +hunting boars on the abbey-lands in 1159, and roused a fine one, which +their dogs pressed hard and chased to the hermitage, where it ran into +the chapel and dropped dead. The hermit closed the door against the +hounds, and the hunters, coming up, were enraged to find the dogs +baulked of their prey, and on the hermit's opening the door they +attacked him with their boar-spears and mortally wounded him. It was not +long before they found that this was dangerous sport, and they took +sanctuary at Scarborough. The Church, however, did not protect those who +had insulted it, and they were given up to the abbot of Whitby, who was +about to make an example of them when the dying hermit summoned the +abbot and the prisoners to his bedside and granted them their lives and +lands. But it was done upon a peculiar tenure: upon Ascension Day at +sunrise they were to come to the wood on Eskdale-side, and the abbot's +officer was to deliver to each "ten stakes, eleven stout stowers, and +eleven yethers, to be cut by you, or some of you, with a knife of one +penny price;" these they were to take on their backs to Whitby before +nine o'clock in the morning. Then said the hermit, "If it be full sea +your labor and service shall cease; and if low water, each of you shall +set your stakes to the brim, each stake one yard from the other, and so +yether them on each side with your yethers, and so stake on each side +with your stout stowers, that they may stand three tides without +removing by the force thereof. You shall faithfully do this in +remembrance that you did most cruelly slay me, and that you may the +better call to God for mercy, repent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> unfeignedly of your sins, and do +good works. The officer of Eskdale-side shall blow, 'Out on you, out on +you, out on you for this heinous crime!'" Failure of this strange +service was to forfeit their lands to the abbot of Whitby.</p> + + + +<h3>DURHAM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p312" id="p312"></a> +<img src="images/p312.jpg" width="650" height="400" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL AND CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL AND CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 462px;"> +<a name="p313" id="p313"></a> +<img src="images/p313.jpg" width="462" height="600" alt="NORMAN DOORWAY IN DURHAM CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORMAN DOORWAY IN DURHAM CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>We have now come into a region of coal and iron, with mines and furnaces +in abundance, and tall chimneys in all the villages pouring out black +smoke. All the country is thoroughly cultivated, and the little streams +bubbling over the stones at the bottoms of the deep valleys, past +sloping green fields and occasional patches of woods where the land is +too steep for cultivation, give picturesqueness to the scene. We have +crossed over the boundary from Yorkshire into Durham, and upon the very +crooked little river Wear there rise upon the tops of the precipitous +cliffs bordering the stream, high elevated above the red-tiled roofs of +the town, the towers of Durham Cathedral and Castle. They stand in a +remarkable position. The Wear, swinging around a curve like an elongated +horseshoe, has excavated a precipitous valley out of the rocks. At the +narrower part of the neck there is a depression, so that the promontory +around which the river sweeps appears like the wrist with the hand +clenched. The town stands at the depression, descending the slopes on +either side to the river, and also spreading upon the opposite banks. +The castle bars the access to the promontory, upon which stands the +cathedral. Thus, almost impregnably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> fortified, the ancient bishops of +Durham were practically sovereigns, and they made war as quickly as they +would celebrate a mass if their powers were threatened, for they bore +alike the sword and the crozier. Durham was founded to guard the relics +of the famous St. Cuthbert of Lindisfarne, the great ascetic of the +early English Church, distinguished above all others for the severity of +his mortifications and his abhorrence of women. At his shrine, we are +told, none of the gentler sex might worship; they were admitted to the +church, but in the priory not even a queen could lodge. Queen Philippa +was once admitted there as a guest, but a tumult arose, and she had to +flee half dressed for safety to the castle. St. Cuthbert was a hermit to +whom the sight of human beings was a weariness and the solitude of the +desert a delight. He was born in Scotland about the middle of the +seventh century, of humble origin, and passed his early years as a +shepherd near Melrose. He adopted an austere life, found a friend in the +abbot of Melrose, and ultimately sickened of an epidemic, his recovery +being despaired of. In answer, however, to the prayers of the monks, he +was restored to health as by a miracle, and became the prior of Melrose. +Afterwards he was for twelve years prior of Lindisfarne, an island off +the Northumbrian coast, but the craving for solitude was too strong to +be resisted, and he became a hermit. He went to Farne, a lonely rocky +island in the neighboring sea, and, living in a hut, spent his life in +prayer and fasting, but having time, according to the legend, to work +abundant miracles. A spring issued from the rock to give him water, the +sea laid fagots at his feet, and the birds ministered to his wants. At +first other monks had free access to him, but gradually he secluded +himself in the hut, speaking to them through the window, and ultimately +closed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> even that against them except in cases of emergency. Such +sanctity naturally acquired wide fame, and after long urging he +consented to become a bishop, at first at Hexham, afterwards at +Lindisfarne, thus returning to familiar scenes and an island home. But +his life was ebbing, and after two years' service he longed again for +his hermit's hut on the rock of Farne. He resigned the bishopric, and, +returning to his hut, in a few weeks died. His brethren buried him +beside his altar, where he rested eleven years; then exhuming the body, +it was found thoroughly preserved, and was buried again in a new coffin +at Lindisfarne. Almost two hundred years passed, when the Danes made an +incursion, and to escape them the monks took the body, with other +precious relics, and left Lindisfarne. During four years they wandered +about with their sacred charge, and ultimately settled near +Chester-le-Street, where the body of St. Cuthbert rested for over a +century; but another Danish invasion in 995 sent the saint's bones once +more on their travels, and they were taken to Ripon. The danger past, +the monks started on their return, transporting the coffin on a +carriage. They had arrived at the Wear, when suddenly the carriage +stopped and was found to be immovable. This event no doubt had a +meaning, and the monks prayed and fasted for three days to learn what it +was. Then the saint appeared in a vision and said he had chosen this +spot for his abode. It was a wild place, known as Dunhelm: the monks +went to the Dun, or headland, and erected a tabernacle for their ark +from the boughs of trees while they built a stone church, within which, +in the year 999, the body was enshrined. This church stood until after +the Norman Conquest, when the king made its bishop the Earl of Durham, +and his palatinate jurisdiction began.</p> + +<p>The present Durham Cathedral was begun in 1093, with the castle +alongside. As we look at them from the railway-station, they stand a +monument of the days when the same hand grasped the pastoral staff and +the sword—"half house of God, half castle 'gainst the Scot." Upon the +top of the rocks, which are clad in foliage to the river's edge, on the +left hand, supported by massive outworks built up from halfway down the +slope, rises the western face of the castle. Beyond this, above a fringe +of trees, rises the lofty cathedral, its high central tower forming the +apex of the group and its two western towers looking down into the +ravine. The galilee in front appears built up from the depths of the +valley, and is supported by outworks scarcely less solid than those of +the castle. Durham, more than any other place in England, is a memorial +of the temporal authority of the Church, uniting the mitre and the +coronet. The plan of Durham Cathedral is peculiar in having the closed +galilee at the western end, instead of the open porch as is usual, while +the eastern end, which is wider than the choir, terminates abruptly, +having no Lady Chapel, but being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> in effect cut off, with a gable in the +centre and a great rose-window. As the galilee overhangs the ravine, the +principal entrance to the cathedral is from a fine northern porch. To +the portal is affixed a large knocker of quaint design, which in former +days was a Mecca for the fugitive, for the shrine of St. Cuthbert +enjoyed the right of sanctuary. When the suppliant grasped this knocker +he was safe, for over the door two monks kept perpetual watch to open at +the first stroke. As soon as admitted the suppliant was required to +confess his crime, whatever it might be. This was written down, and a +bell in the galilee tolled to announce the fact that some one had sought +"the peace of Cuthbert;" and he was then clothed in a black gown with a +yellow cross on the shoulder. After thirty-seven days, if no pardon +could be obtained, the malefactor solemnly abjured his native land for +ever, and was conveyed to the seacoast, bearing a white wooden cross in +his hand, and was sent out of the kingdom by the first ship that sailed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;"> +<a name="p315" id="p315"></a> +<img src="images/p315.jpg" width="393" height="600" alt="DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM AN OLD HOMESTEAD ON THE WEAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM AN OLD HOMESTEAD ON THE WEAR.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 462px;"> +<a name="p316" id="p316"></a> +<img src="images/p316.jpg" width="462" height="600" alt="THE NAVE, DURHAM CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The interior of Durham Cathedral is regarded as the noblest Norman +construction yet remaining in England. The arcade, triforium, and +clerestory are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> in fine proportion; the nave has a vaulted roof of +stone, and the alternate columns are clustered in plan, their middle +shafts extending from floor to roof. These columns are enriched with +zigzag, lattice, spiral, and vertical flutings. This cathedral, begun in +1093, was nearly two centuries building, and the Chapel of Nine Altars, +in honor of various saints, was erected at the eastern end in the +twelfth century. Some of these altars did duty for a pair of saints, St. +Cuthbert sharing the central one with St. Bede, a name only second to +his in the memories of Durham, so that the nine altars were availed of +to reverence sixteen saints. Behind the reredos a platform extends a +short distance into this chapel at a height of six feet above the floor. +A large blue flagstone is let into the platform, with shallow grooves on +either hand. Here stood St. Cuthbert's shrine, highly ornamented, and +having seats underneath for the pilgrims and cripples who came to pray +for relief. This being never wanting, we are told that the shrine came +to be so richly invested that it was esteemed one of the most sumptuous +monuments in England, so numerous were the offerings and jewels bestowed +upon it. Among the relics here accumulated was the famous Black Rood of +Scotland, the prize of the battle of Neville's Cross, fought near +Durham. There were also many relics of saints and martyrs, scraps of +clothing of the Saviour and the Virgin, pieces of the crown of thorns +and of the true cross, vials containing the milk of the Virgin Mother +and the blood of St. Thomas, besides elephants' tusks and griffins' +claws and eggs, with myriads of jewels. In 1104, St. Cuthbert's body was +deposited in this shrine with solemn ceremonies, and it rested there +undisturbed until the dissolution of the monasteries, reverentially +watched, day and night, by monks stationed in an adjoining chamber. Then +the shrine was destroyed and the treasures scattered, the coffin opened, +and St. Cuthbert buried beneath the slab, so that now the only remnants +visible are the furrows worn in the adjoining pavement by the feet of +the ancient worshippers. Tradition tells that the exact position of St. +Cuthbert's grave is known only to three Benedictine monks, of whom Scott +writes:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"There, deep in Durham's Gothic shade,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His relics are in secret laid,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">But none may know the place,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Save of his holiest servants three,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Who share that wondrous grace."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The corpse, however, rests beneath the blue slab. In 1827 it was raised, +and, while other human remains were found, there was disclosed beneath +them, in a coffin, a skeleton vested in mouldering robes, and with it +various treasures, which, with the robes, accord with the description of +those present in St. Cuthbert's coffin when opened in 1104. The skeleton +was reinterred in a new coffin, and the relics, particularly an ancient +golden cross and a comb, were placed in the cathedral library.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 473px;"> +<a name="p317" id="p317"></a> +<img src="images/p317.jpg" width="473" height="600" alt="THE CHOIR, LOOKING WEST, DURHAM CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHOIR, LOOKING WEST, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the galilee of Durham Cathedral, near the south-eastern angle, is a +plain, low altar-tomb that marks the resting-place of St. Bede, commonly +known as "the Venerable Bede"—a title which angelic hands are said to +have supplied to the line inscribed on his tomb. He was the first +English historian, a gentle, simple scholar, who spent his life from +childhood in a monastery at Jarrow, near the mouth of the Wear, and took +his pleasure in learning, teaching, or writing. His great work was the +<i>Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation</i>, which occupied many +years in compilation, and is still the most trusted history of the +period of which it treats. His literary activity was extraordinary, and +he produced many other works. He was born near Durham in 672, and died +in 735. His devotion to literary work was such that even during his last +illness he was dictating to an amanuensis a translation of the Gospel of +St. John into Anglo-Saxon, and upon completing the last sentence +requested the assistant to place him on the floor of his cell, where he +said a short prayer, and expired as the closing words passed his lips. +He was buried where he had lived, at Jarrow, and as the centuries passed +the fame of his sanctity and learning increased. Then a certain Ælfred +conceived the idea of stealing St. Bede's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> remains for the glorification +of Durham. Several times baffled, he at length succeeded, and carrying +the precious relics to Durham, they were for a time preserved in St. +Cuthbert's shrine, but were afterwards removed to a separate tomb, which +in 1370 was placed in the galilee, where it has since remained. At the +Reformation the shrine was destroyed, and St. Bede's bones, like St. +Cuthbert's, were buried beneath the spot on which the shrine had stood. +This tomb was opened in 1831, and many human bones were found beneath, +together with a gilt ring. The bones in all probability were St. Bede's +remains. Durham Cathedral contains few monuments, for reverence for the +solitude of St. Cuthbert whom it enshrined excluded memorials of other +men during several centuries.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;"> +<a name="p318" id="p318"></a> +<img src="images/p318.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="THE GALILEE AND TOMB OF BEDE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GALILEE AND TOMB OF BEDE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The remains of the Benedictine monastery to which the care of these +shrines was entrusted are south of the cathedral, forming three sides of +a square, of which the cathedral nave was the fourth. Beyond is an open +green, with the castle on the farther side and old buildings on either +hand. From this green the castle is entered by a gateway with massive +doors, but, while the structure is picturesque, it is not very ancient, +excepting this gateway. It has mostly been rebuilt since the twelfth +century. This was the palace of the bishops of Durham, of whom Antony +Bek raised the power of the see to its highest point. He was prelate, +soldier, and politician, equally at home in peace or war, at the head of +his troops, celebrating a mass, or surrounded by his great officers of +state. He was the first who intruded upon the solitude of St. Cuthbert +by being buried in the cathedral. Here lived also Richard of Bury, noted +as the most learned man of his generation north of the Alps, and the +first English bibliomaniac. Bishop Hatfield also ruled at Durham, famous +both as architect and warrior. Cardinal Wolsey lived here when +Archbishop of York and his quarrel with Henry VIII. resulted in the +Durham palatinate beginning to lose part of its power, so that in the +days of his successor, Tunstall, it came to be the "peace of the king," +and not of the bishop, that was broken within its borders. Here also +ruled the baron-bishop Crewe, who was both a temporal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> and a spiritual +peer, and Bishop Butler, the profound thinker. But the bishops live +there no longer, their palace being moved to Auckland, while the +university is located in the castle. It is the Northern University, +first projected in Cromwell's time. About a mile to the westward of +Durham was fought the battle of Neville's Cross in October, 1346. This +was a few months after Edward had won the battle of Crecy in France, and +the King of Scotland, taking advantage of the absence of the English +king and his army, swept over the Border with forty thousand men, +devastating the entire country. His chief nobles accompanied him, and to +encourage the troops the most sacred relic of Scotland, the "Black +Rood," a crucifix of blackened silver, was present on the battlefield. +This had been mysteriously delivered to David I. on the spot in +Edinburgh where to commemorate it Holyrood Abbey was afterwards founded. +But, though King Edward was in France, Queen Philippa was equal to the +emergency. An army was quickly gathered under Earl Neville, and Durham +sent its contingent headed by the warlike bishop. The invaders drew near +the walls of Durham, and the English army, inferior in numbers, awaited +them. To confront the "Black Rood," the bishop brought into camp an "ark +of God" in obedience to a vision: this was one of the cathedral's +choicest treasures, "the holy corporax cloth wherewith St. Cuthbert +covered the chalice when he used to say mass." This, attached to the +point of a spear, was displayed in sight of the army, while the monks +upon the cathedral towers, in full view of the battlefield, prayed for +victory for the defenders of St. Cuthbert's shrine. They fought three +hours in the morning, the Scotch with axes, the English with arrows; +but, as the watching monks turned from prayer to praise, the Scottish +line wavered and broke, for the banner of St. Cuthbert proved too much +for the Black Rood. The King of Scotland was wounded and captured, and +fifteen thousand of his men were slain, including many nobles. The Black +Rood was captured, and placed in the Nine Altars Chapel. Afterwards the +"corporax cloth" was attached to a velvet banner, and became one of the +great standards of England, being carried against Scotland by Richard +II. and Henry IV., and it waved over the English army at Flodden. When +not in use it was attached to St. Cuthbert's shrine. At the Reformation +the Black Rood was lost, and St. Cuthbert's banner fell into possession +of one Dean Whittingham, whose wife, the historian lamentingly says, +"being a Frenchwoman, did most despitefully burn the same in her fire, +to the open contempt and disgrace of all ancient relics." A narrow lane, +deeply fringed with ferns, leads out of Durham over the hills to the +westward of the town, where at a cross-road stand the mutilated remains +of Earl Neville's Cross, set up to mark the battlefield, now a wide +expanse of smoky country.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>LUMLEY CASTLE AND NEWCASTLE.</h3> + +<p>Following the Wear northward towards its mouth, at a short distance +below Durham it passes the site of the Roman city of Conderum, which had +been the resting-place of St. Cuthbert's bones until the Danish invasion +drove them away, and it is now known as Chester-le-Street. Here, in the +old church of St. Mary and St. Cuthbert, is the rude effigy of the saint +which once surmounted his tomb, and here also is the "Aisle of Tombs," a +chain of fourteen monumental effigies of the Lumleys, dating from Queen +Elizabeth's reign. Lumley Castle, now the Earl of Scarborough's seat +(for he too is a Lumley), is a short distance outside the town, on an +eminence overlooking the Wear. It dates from the time of Edward I., but +has been much modernized, the chief apartment in the interior being the +Great Hall, sixty by thirty feet, with the Minstrel Gallery at the +western end. Here on the wall is a life-size statue of the great +ancestor of the Lumleys, Liulph the Saxon, seated on a red horse. North +of this castle, across the Wear, is the Earl of Durham's seat, Lambton +Castle, a Gothic and Tudor structure recently restored.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p320" id="p320"></a> +<img src="images/p320.jpg" width="650" height="375" alt="SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF LUMLEY CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF LUMLEY CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 469px;"> +<a name="p321" id="p321"></a> +<img src="images/p321.jpg" width="469" height="600" alt="GATEWAY, LUMLEY CASTLE, FROM THE WALK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY, LUMLEY CASTLE, FROM THE WALK.</span> +</div> + +<p>Still journeying northward, we cross the hills between the Wear and the +Tyne, and come to the New Castle which gives its name to +Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the great coal shipping port. This is a +strange-looking town, with red-tiled roofs, narrow, dingy, crooked +streets, and myriads of chimneys belching<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> forth smoke from the many +iron-works. These mills and furnaces are numerous also in the +surrounding country, while the neighborhood is a network of railways +carrying coal from the various lines to the shipping-piers. But this +famous city is not all smoke and coal-dust: its New Castle is an ancient +structure, rather dilapidated now, coming down from the reign of Henry +II., approached by steep stairways up the rock on which the keep is +perched. It has a fine hall, which is used as a museum of Roman relics, +and from the roof is a grand view along the Tyne. This castle has a well +ninety-three feet deep bored in the rock. Newcastle in its newer parts +has some fine buildings. Grey Street, containing the theatre and +Exchange, for a space of about four hundred yards is claimed to be the +finest street in the kingdom. In Low Friars Street is the old chapel of +the Black Friars monastery, where Baliol did homage to Edward III. for +the Scottish throne. Sir William Armstrong lives at Jesmond, just +outside Newcastle, and at Elswick, west of the city, are the extensive +workshops where are made the Armstrong guns. The great High Level bridge +across the Tyne Valley, built by Stephenson, with a railway on top of a +roadway, and one thousand three hundred and thirty-seven feet long, is +one of the chief engineering works at Newcastle. George Stephenson was +born in 1781 at High Street House, Wylam, near Newcastle, while at +Frudhoe Castle is a seat of the Duke of Northumberland. At Wallsend, +three miles east of Newcastle, begins the celebrated Roman wall that +crossed Britain, and was defended by their legions against incursions by +the Scots. Its stone-and-turf walls, with the ditch on the north side, +can be distinctly traced across the island.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>HEXHAM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 497px;"> +<a name="p322" id="p322"></a> +<img src="images/p322.jpg" width="497" height="600" alt="HEXHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HEXHAM.</span> +</div> + +<p>Ascending the Tyne, we come to Hexham, an imposing town as approached by +the railway, with the Moat Hall and the abbey church occupying +commanding features in the landscape. The Moat Hall is a large and +ancient tower, notable for its narrow lights and cornice-like range of +corbels. The abbey church, formerly the cathedral of St. Andrew, is a +fine specimen of Early English architecture, of which only the transept +and some other ruins remain, surmounted by a tower rising about one +hundred feet and supported upon magnificent arches. Here is the shrine +of the ancient chronicler. Prior Richard, an attractive oratory: and the +town also produced another quaint historian of the Border troubles, John +of Hexham. It is an antique place, and almost all of its old buildings +bear testimony to the disturbed state of the Scottish frontier in the +olden time, for not far away are the Cheviot Hills that form the +boundary, and in which the Tyne takes its rise. Similar evidence is also +given in Haltwhistle, Hexham's suburb, across the narrow river.</p> + + + + + +<h3>ALNWICK CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p323-1" id="p323-1"></a> +<img src="images/p323-1.jpg" width="600" height="493" alt="ALNWICK CASTLE, FROM THE LION BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALNWICK CASTLE, FROM THE LION BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<a name="p324" id="p324"></a> +<img src="images/p324.jpg" width="414" height="600" alt="THE BARBICAN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p323-2" id="p323-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p323-2.jpg" width="450" height="422" alt="THE BARBICAN GATE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN GATE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Journeying northward through Northumberland, and following the +coastline—for here England narrows as the Scottish border is +approached—the road crosses the diminutive river Alne, running through +a deep valley, and standing in an imposing situation on its southern +bank is the renowned stronghold of the Percies and guardian of the +Border, Alnwick Castle. The great fortress, as we now see it, was built +as a defence against the Scots, and was protected on the northward by +the river-valley and a deep ravine, which formerly cut it off from the +village, which is as ancient as the fortress, as its quaint old +Pottergate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> Tower attests. Roman remains have been found on the site, +and it was also inhabited by the Saxons, the castle at the time of the +Norman Conquest being held by Gilbert Tysen, a powerful Northumbrian +chief. It was then a primitive timber fortress in a wild region, for the +earliest masonry works are Norman, and are attributed to Tysen's +descendants. Alnwick Castle is a cluster of semicircular and angular +bastions, surrounded by lofty walls, defended at intervals by towers, +and enclosing a space of about five acres. It has three courts or wards, +each defended formerly by massive gates, with portcullis, porters lodge, +and a strong guardhouse, beneath which was a dungeon. Trap-doors are the +only entrances to the latter, into which the prisoners were lowered by +ropes. From the village the entrance to the castle is through the +barbican, or outer gate, a work of gigantic strength and massive +grandeur, which has been the scene of many a brave encounter. Near by is +the Postern Tower, a sally-port adjacent to the "Bloody Gap" and +"Hotspur's Chair." The history of this famous stronghold is practically +the history of this portion of the realm, for in all the Border warfare +that continued for centuries it was conspicuous. In the reign of William +Rufus it was gallantly defended by Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, in +the memorable siege by the Scots under King Malcolm III. The garrison +were about surrendering, being almost starved, when a private soldier +undertook their deliverance. He rode out to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> besiegers' camp, +carrying the keys of the castle dangling from his lance, and presented +himself a suppliant before the Scottish king, as if to deliver up the +keys. Malcolm advanced to receive them, and the soldier pierced him +through the heart. Malcolm fell dead, and in the confusion the bold +trooper sprang upon his horse, dashed across the river, and was safe. +Malcolm's eldest son, Prince Edward, advanced rashly to avenge the +king's death, and fell mortally wounded from the castle. Hammond's Ford, +named for the bold trooper, marks the spot where he and his horse swam +across the Alne, which at the time was swollen. In memory of Malcolm, a +cross stands on the spot where he was slain, and near by is Malcolm's +Well and the ruins of St. Leonard's Chapel, built for the unfortunate +king's expiation. Upon the cross the inscription states that Malcolm +fell November 13, 1093, and that the original cross, decayed by time, +was restored by his descendant, Elizabeth, Duchess of Northumberland, in +1774. Eustace de Vesci, who built St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> Leonard's Chapel, lived in the +days of Henry I. and Stephen, and founded the abbey of Alnwick. King +David of Scotland captured the old timber castle there in 1135 on his +great invasion of England, and Eustace afterwards built the first +masonry work of Alnwick Castle, traces of his walls having since been +found.</p> + + + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p326-2" id="p326-2"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p326-1/326-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p326-1.jpg" width="403" height="600" + alt="THE PERCY BEDSTEAD." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p326-2.jpg" width="290" height="600" + alt="THE PERCY CROSS." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PERCY BEDSTEAD.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">THE PERCY CROSS.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p class="author"><a name="p325" id="p325"></a><span class="caption">THE EASTERN ANGLE OF THE BARBICAN.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p325.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:420px; height:350px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:340px; height:250px;"> </div> + +<p><br /><br />Alnwick descended to William, son of Eustace, and in 1174, William the +Lion, returning from an invasion of Cumberland, passed before the +castle, and was captured and sent a prisoner into England. Alnwick +descended to William's son Eustace, who was visited by King John in +1209, and the king there received the homage of Alexander of Scotland. +Eustace was one of the chief barons who wrested Magna Charta from John, +and in the closing year of that reign met his death from an arrow before +Barnard Castle. Henry III. visited Alnwick, and the great Edward I. was +there several times as the guest of John de Vesci near the close of the +thirteenth century. The Barons de Vesci soon afterwards became extinct, +and then the warlike bishop of Durham, Antony Bek, came in and grabbed +the castle. He sold it in 1309 to Henry de Percy, and from this dates +the rise of the great family of the northern Border, who have held +Alnwick for nearly six centuries, its present owner being his +descendant, Algernon George Percy, Duke of Northumberland, in whose +veins flows the blood of so many great families that he can use nine +hundred heraldic devices on his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> armorial bearings, including those of +many kings and princes. Henry de Percy became the leader of the Border +barons, and, although living at Alnwick only five years, seems to have +rebuilt most of the castle, his son completing it. The Percies became +the Earls of Northumberland, and such warlike lives did they lead (as, +for instance, young Henry Percy, "Hotspur") that it is noted that Henry +Algernon, the fifth earl, was the first of the race who died in bed. The +next of the line was executed for rebellion, and the next was beheaded +at York for conspiring against Queen Elizabeth. The eighth earl, +favoring Mary Queen of Scots, was imprisoned in the Tower, and was one +day found in his chamber shot through the heart. Henry, the ninth earl, +was implicated in the Gunpowder Plot, imprisoned in the Tower, and fined +$250,000. After his release he spent the remainder of his life at +Petworth; Alnwick was neglected; and the direct line of descent +ultimately ended with Elizabeth, daughter of the eleventh earl, who +married the Duke of Somerset in 1682. Her grandson, Algernon, became +Earl of Northumberland, and his daughter, Elizabeth Seymour, was the +ancestress of the present family, her husband being created the first +Duke of Northumberland. Alnwick was then a ruin, but he restored it, and +subsequently, under the direction of the architect Salvin, it was +completely rebuilt, everything worthy of preservation being kept, and +the new work being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> adapted to the days of the earlier Percies, whose +achievements gave the stronghold such world-wide renown.</p> +<p style="clear: both;"> </p></div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"> +<a name="p328" id="p328"></a> +<img src="images/p328.jpg" width="257" height="600" alt="EARL HUGH'S TOWER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EARL HUGH'S TOWER.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p327" id="p327"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">CONSTABLE'S TOWER.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p327.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:500px; height:480px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:380px; height:120px;"> </div> + + +<p>This famous castle is full of recollections of the great men who +formerly inhabited it. The Constable's Tower, remaining mostly in its +ancient condition, has in an upper apartment arms for fifteen hundred +men, the Percy tenantry, while in the rooms beneath is deposited the +ancient armor. "Hotspur's Chair" is the name given to a seated recess of +the Ravine Tower which was Hotspur's favorite resort, where he sat while +his troops exercised in the castle-yard beneath, and where he had an +admirable lookout to discover an approaching enemy. Through the +loopholes on either side of the seat in this commanding tower there is +an extensive prospect over the valley of the Alne and to the distant +seacoast. The "Bloody Gap," another noted site in the castle, is between +the Ravine and Round Towers. It was the name given to a breach in the +wall made by the Scots during the Border wars, although the exact time +is unknown. According to tradition, three hundred Scots fell within the +breach, and they were ultimately beaten off. Many arrows have been found +in the adjacent walls, so located as to indicate they were shot from the +battlements and windows of the keep when the assailants were making this +breach. Alnwick Castle was restored by Salvin with strict regard to the +rules of mediæval military architecture. When it was the great Border +stronghold its governor commanded a force of no less than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> two thousand +men, who were employed in a complicated system of day and night watching +to guard against forays by the Scots. The day watchers began at +daylight, and blew a horn on the approach of the foe, when all men were +bound on pain of death to respond for the general defence. The great +feature of the restored castle is the Prudhoe Tower, built about +twenty-five years ago. After entering the barbican, which admits to the +outer ward, the visitor passes between the Abbot's Tower on the left and +the Corner Tower and Auditor's Tower on the right. Earl Hugh's turreted +tower also rises boldly from the battlements. Passing through the middle +gatehouse, the keep, constructed in the form of a polygon around a +court, is seen on the right hand, and in the gateway-wall is Percy's +famous draw-well, with a statue of St. James above blessing the waters. +Opposite this draw-well is a covered drive which leads to the entrance +of Prudhoe Tower. This tower is a magnificent structure, containing the +family and state-apartments, built and decorated in the Italian style, +and approached by a staircase twelve feet wide. It was built at enormous +cost, and alongside is a vaulted kitchen of ample proportions, +constructed in the baronial style, where there are sufficient facilities +to prepare<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> dinner for six hundred persons at one time, while the +subterranean regions contain bins for three hundred tons of coal. Such +is this great baronial Border stronghold, replete with memories of the +warlike Percies. From here Hotspur sallied forth to encounter the +marauding Scottish force which under Douglas had laid waste England as +far as the gates of York, and almost within the sight of the castle is +the bloody field of Otterbourn, where Douglas fell by Hotspur's own +hand, though the English lost the day and Hotspur himself was captured. +Again, as war's fortunes change, just north of Alnwick is Humbleton +Hill, where the Scots had to fly before England's "deadly arrow-hail," +leaving their leader, Douglas, with five wounds and only one eye, a +prisoner in the hands of the Percies. It was from Alnwick's battlements +that the countess watched "the stout Earl of Northumberland" set forth, +"his pleasure in the Scottish woods three summer days to take"—an +expedition from which he never returned. Such was the history for +centuries of this renowned castle, which is regarded as presenting the +most perfect specimen now existing, perhaps in the world, of the feudal +stronghold of mediæval days.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p329-1" id="p329-1"></a> +<img src="images/p329-1.jpg" width="450" height="600" alt="THE DRAW-WELL AND NORMAN GATEWAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DRAW-WELL AND NORMAN GATEWAY.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p329-2" id="p329-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 399px;"> +<img src="images/p329-2.jpg" width="399" height="450" alt="Gravestone in the Churchyard of St. Michael & all +Angels." title="" /> + +</div> + +<p><br /><br />And now let us turn from the castle to the church. Almost alongside of +it is St. Michael's Church, built with battlements, as if prepared as +much for defence as for worship, and a watch-tower, made evidently for a +lookout and to hold a beacon to warn of the approach of forays. This was +one of the regular chain of Border beacons. Within the church an old +iron-work lectern still holds the "Book of the Homilies," while the +churchyard is full of ancient gravestones. Alnwick Abbey once existed +down alongside the river, under the protection of the castle, but it has +been long since ruined, and its remains have served as a quarry for the +village buildings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> until little of them remains. Its extensive domains +are now part of the Duke's Park, and another contributor to this park +was Hulne Priory, the earliest Carmelite monastery in England, founded +in 1240. It stood upon a projecting spur of rising land above the Alne, +backed by rich woods, but was neither large nor wealthy, as the +neighboring abbey eclipsed it. The discipline of the Carmelites was +rigorous. Each friar had a coffin for his cell and slept on straw, while +every morning he dug a shovelful of earth for his grave and crept on his +knees in prayer. Silence, solitude, and strict fasting were the +injunction upon all, and their buildings were sternly simple. The +porter's lodge and curtain-wall enclosing Hulne Priory still stand, and +its outline can be traced, though the ruins are scant. Yet this, like +all else at Alnwick, bears evidence of the troublous times on the +Border. The most important of its remaining buildings is an embattled +tower of refuge from the Scottish invader. Its inscription states that +it was built in 1448 by Sir Henry Percy, fourth Earl of Northumberland. +Opposite Hulne Priory is Brislee Hill, which presents the most renowned +view in Alnwick Park. A tower rises among the trees upon the crest of +the hill from which bonfires now blaze on occasions of festivity. Here, +over the park, can be seen the castle and town, and beyond, to the +eastward, the sea, with its coast-castles as far north as Bamborough. +The little Coquet Island in the distance breaks the expanse of blue +waters. To the westward beyond the moors rises the sharp outline of the +Scottish Border, the Cheviot Hills, running off towards the north-east, +and containing in their depressions the passes through which the Scots +used to pour when they harried Northern England and roused the Alnwick +warriors to defend their firesides.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 247px;"> +<a name="p330-1" id="p330-1"></a> +<img src="images/p330-1.jpg" width="247" height="450" alt="LECTERN, ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LECTERN, ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 430px;"> +<a name="p330-2" id="p330-2"></a> +<img src="images/p330-2.jpg" width="430" height="600" alt="PORTER'S LODGE, HULNE PRIORY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PORTER'S LODGE, HULNE PRIORY.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>FORD CASTLE AND FLODDEN FIELD.</h3> + +<p>Northward, past the extremity of the Cheviots, flows the Tweed, and one +of its tributaries on the English side is the Till, which drains the +bases of those sharp hills, that rise nearly twenty-seven hundred feet. +Here was Ford Castle, and here was fought the terrible Border battle of +Flodden in 1513. Ford Castle dated from the time of Edward I., and its +proximity to the Border made it the object of many assaults. In the +fifteenth century it was held by Sir William Heron, and a few days +before the battle of Flodden the Scots, under James IV., during Sir +William's captivity in Scotland, stormed and destroyed Ford, taking +captive Lady Heron, who had endeavored to defend it. In the last century +Ford was restored by the Marquis of Waterford, to whom it had descended, +so that it now appears as a fine baronial mansion, surmounted by towers +and battlements, and standing in a commanding situation overlooking the +valley of the Till, with the lofty Cheviots closing the view a few miles +to the south-west, their peaks affording ever-varying scenes as the +season changes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p331" id="p331"></a> +<img src="images/p331.jpg" width="600" height="436" alt="FORD TOWER, OVERLOOKING FLODDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FORD TOWER, OVERLOOKING FLODDEN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p332" id="p332"></a> +<img src="images/p332.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="THE CHEVIOTS, FROM FORD CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHEVIOTS, FROM FORD CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"> +<a name="p333" id="p333"></a> +<img src="images/p333.jpg" width="379" height="600" alt="FLODDEN, FROM THE KING'S BEDCHAMBER, FORD CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FLODDEN, FROM THE KING'S BEDCHAMBER, FORD CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The great attraction of the view, however, is the famous hill of +Flodden, about a mile to the westward, crowned by a plantation of dark +fir trees, and presenting, with the different aspects of the weather, +ever-changeful scenery,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> recalling now the "dark Flodden" and anon the +"red Flodden" of the balladists. Across the valley from Ford Castle, and +at the foot of this fir-crowned hill, was fought one of the bitterest +contests of the Border. Now, the famous battlefield is a +highly-cultivated farm and sheep-pasture. James IV. of Scotland had +unjustly determined to make war upon England, and he set out upon it in +opposition to the real desire of his countrymen, and even against the +omens of Heaven, as the people believed. A few days before he departed +for his army the king attended St. Michael's Church, adjacent to his +stately palace at Linlithgow, when a venerable stranger entered the +aisle where the king knelt. The hair from his uncovered head flowed down +over his shoulders, and his blue robe was confined by a linen girdle. +With an air of majesty he walked up to the kneeling king, and said, +"Sire, I am sent to warn thee not to proceed in thy present undertaking, +for if thou dost it shall not fare well either with thyself or those who +go with thee." He vanished then in the awe-stricken crowd. But this was +not the only warning. At midnight, prior to the departure of the troops +for the south, it is related that a voice not mortal proclaimed a +summons from the market cross, where proclamations were usually read, +calling upon all who should march against the English to appear within +the space of forty days before the court of the Evil One. Sir Walter +Scott says that this summons, like the apparition at Linlithgow, was +probably an attempt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> by those averse to the war to impose upon the +superstitious temper of James IV. But the king started at the head of +the finest army, and supported by the strongest artillery-train, that +had down to that time been brought into the field by any Scottish +monarch. He entered England August 22d. without having formed any +definite plan of action. He wasted two days on the Till, besieged Norham +for a week, when it surrendered, and then besieged Ford. These delays +gave the English time to assemble. King James, as above related, +captured Lady Heron at Ford. She was beautiful and deceitful, and soon +enthralled the gay king in her spells, while all the time she was in +communication with the English. Thus James wasted his time in dalliance, +and, as Scott tells us,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The monarch o'er the siren hung,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And beat the measure as she sung,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, pressing closer and more near,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He whispered praises in her ear."</span><br /> +</p> + + +<p><a name="p335" id="p335"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 310px;"> +<img src="images/p335.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="THE CRYPT, FORD CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CRYPT, FORD CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>All the time the energetic Earl of Surrey was marshalling the English +hosts, and, marching with twenty-six thousand men northward through +Durham, received there the sacred banner of St. Cuthbert. On September +4th. Surrey challenged James to battle, which the king accepted against +the advice of his best councillors. The Scots had become restive under +the king's do-nothing policy, and many of them left the camp and +returned home with the booty already acquired. James selected a strong +position on Flodden Hill, with both flanks protected and having the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> +deep and sluggish waters of the Till flowing in front. Surrey advanced +and reconnoitred, and then sent the king a herald requesting him to +descend into the plain, as he acted ungallantly in thus practically +shutting himself up in a fortress. The king would not admit the herald. +Surrey then attempted a stratagem. Crossing the Till on the 8th, he +encamped at Barmoor Wood, about two miles from the Scottish position, +concealing his movement from the enemy. On the 9th he marched down the +Till to near its confluence with the Tweed, and recrossed to the eastern +bank. This, too, was uninterrupted by the Scots, who remained strangely +inactive, though it is recorded that the chief Scottish nobles implored +the king to attack the English. The aged Earl Angus begged him either to +assault the English or retreat. "If you are afraid, Angus," replied the +king, "you can go home." The master of artillery implored the king to +allow him to bring his guns to bear upon the English, but James returned +the reply that he would meet his antagonist on equal terms in a fair +field, and scorned to take an advantage. Then Surrey drew up his line +between James and the Border, and advanced up the valley of the Till +towards the Scots. The king set fire to the temporary huts on the +hillside where he had been encamped, and descended to the valley, the +smoke concealing the movements of each army from the other; but Surrey's +stratagem was thus successful in drawing him from his strong position. +The English van was led by Lord Thomas Howard, Surrey commanding the +main body, Sir Edward Stanley the rear, and Lord Dacre the reserves. The +Scottish advance was led by the Earls of Home and Huntley, the king +leading the centre, the Earls of Lennox and Argyle the rear, and the +reserves, consisting of the flower of the Lothians, were under the Earl +of Bothwell. The battle began at four in the afternoon, when the +Scottish advance charged upon the right wing of the English advance and +routed it. Dacre promptly galloped forward with his reserves, and +restored the fortunes of the day for the English right. The main bodies +in the mean time became engaged in a desperate contest. The Scottish +king in his ardor forgot that the duties of a commander were distinct +from the indiscriminate valor of a knight, and placed himself in front +of his spearmen, surrounded by his nobles, who, while they deplored the +gallant weakness of such conduct, disdained to leave their sovereign +unprotected. Dacre and Howard, having defeated the Scottish wing in +front of them, at this time turned their full strength against the flank +of the Scottish centre. It was a terrific combat, the Scots fighting +desperately in an unbroken ring around their king. The battle lasted +till night, and almost annihilated the Scottish forces. Of all the +splendid host, embracing the flower of the nobility and chivalry of the +kingdom, only a few haggard and wounded stragglers returned to tell the +tale. The Eng<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>lish victors lost five thousand slain, and the Scots more +than twice that number, and among them the greatest men of the land. +They left on the field their king, two bishops, two mitred abbots, +twenty-seven peers and their sons, and there was scarcely a family of +any position in Scotland that did not lose a relative there. The young +Earl of Caithness and his entire band of three hundred followers +perished on the field. The body of the dead king, afterwards found by +Dacre, was taken to Berwick and presented to his commander, who had it +embalmed and conveyed to the monastery of Sheyne in Surrey. The poetic +instincts of the Scots were deeply moved by the woes of the fatal field +of Flodden, and innumerable poems and ballads record the sad story, the +crowning work of all being Scott's <i>Marmion</i>.</p> + + + + +<h3>BAMBOROUGH AND GRACE DARLING.</h3> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p336" id="p336"></a> +<img src="images/p336.jpg" width="450" height="364" alt="GRACE DARLING'S MONUMENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GRACE DARLING'S MONUMENT.</span> +</div> +<p>North of Flodden Field, and not far distant, is the Scottish Border, +which in this part is made by the river Tweed, with Berwick at its +mouth. The two kingdoms, so long in hot quarrel, are now united by a +magnificent railway-bridge, elevated one hundred and twenty-five feet +above the river and costing $600,000. For miles along the coast the +railway runs almost upon the edge of the ocean, elevated on the cliffs +high above the sea, while off the coast are Holy Isle and Lindisfarne. +Here St. Cuthbert was the bishop, and its abbey is a splendid ruin, +while on the rocky islet of Farne he lived a hermit, encompassing his +cell with a mound so high that he could see nothing but the heavens. Two +miles from Farne, on the mainland, was the royal city of Bebban Burgh, +now Bamborough, the castle standing upon an almost perpendicular rock +rising one hundred and fifty feet and overlooking the sea. This was King +Ida's castle, a Border stronghold in ancient times whose massive keep +yet stands. It is now a charity-school, a lighthouse, and a life-saving +station. Thirty beds are kept in the restored castle for shipwrecked +sailors, and Bamborough is to the mariner on that perilous coast what +the convent of St. Bernard is to the traveller in the Alps. Here, at +this Border haven, we will close this descriptive tour by recalling +Bamborough's most pleasant memory—that of Grace Darling. She was a +native of the place, and was lodged, clothed, and educated at the school +in Bamborough Castle. Her remains lie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> in Bamborough churchyard under an +altar-tomb bearing her recumbent figure and surmounted by a Gothic +canopy. She is represented lying on a plaited straw mattrass and holding +an oar. All this coast is beset with perils and wrecks have been +frequent. The islet of Farne and a cluster of other rocks off shore add +to the dangers, and on some of them there are lighthouses. One of these +rocks—Longstone Island—Grace Darling rendered memorable by her +intrepidity in perilling her life during the storm of September, 1838. +Her father was the keeper of Longstone Light, and on the night of +September 6 the Forfarshire steamer, proceeding from Hull to Dundee, was +wrecked there. Of fifty-three persons on board, thirty-eight perished, +and on the morning of the 7th, Grace, then about twenty-three years of +age, discovered the survivors clinging to the rocks and remnants of the +steamer, in imminent danger of being washed off by the returning tide. +With her parents' assistance, but against their remonstrance, Grace +launched a boat, and with her father succeeded in rescuing nine of them, +while six escaped by other means. Presents and demonstrations of +admiration were showered upon her from all parts of the kingdom, and a +public subscription of $3500 was raised for her benefit. Poor Grace died +four years later of consumption. A monument to her has been placed in +St. Cuthbert's Chapel on Longstone Island, and upon it is this +inscription, from Wordsworth:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Pious and pure, modest, and yet so brave,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Though young, so wise—though meek, so resolute.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Oh that winds and waves could speak</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of things which their united power called forth</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the pure depths of her humanity!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A maiden gentle, yet at duty's call</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Firm and unflinching as the lighthouse reared</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">On the island-rock, her lonely dwelling-place;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or, like the invincible rock itself, that braves,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Age after age, the hostile elements,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As when it guarded holy Cuthbert's cell.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"All night the storm had raged, nor ceased, nor paused,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When, as day broke, the maid, through misty air,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Espies far off a wreck amid the surf,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beating on one of those disastrous isles—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Half of a vessel, half—no more; the rest</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Had vanished!"</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI.</h2> + + +<h3>LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Cotswolds—The River Severn—Gloucester—Berkeley Castle—New +Inn—Gloucester Cathedral—Lampreys—Tewkesbury; its Mustard, +Abbey, and Battle—Wercester; its Battle—Charles II.'s +Escape—Worcester Cathedral—The Malvern Hills—Worcestershire +Beacon—Herefordshire Beacon—Great Malvern—St. Anne's Well—The +River Wye—Clifford Castle—Hereford—Old Butcher's Row—Nell +Gwynne's Birthplace—Ross—The Man of Ross—Ross Church and its +Trees—Walton Castle—Goodrich Castle—Forest of +Dean—Coldwell—Symond's Yat—The Dowards—Monmouth—Kymin +Hill—Raglan Castle—Redbrook—St. Briard Castle—Tintern +Abbey—The Wyncliff—Wyntour's Leap—Chepstow Castle—The River +Monnow—The Golden Valley—The Black Mountains—Pontrilas +Court—Ewias Harold—Abbey Dore—The Scyrrid +Vawr—Wormridge—Kilpeck—Oldcastle—Kentchurch—Grosmont—The Vale +of Usk—Abergavenny—Llanthony Priory—Walter Savage +Landor—Capel-y-Ffyn—Newport—Penarth Roads—Cardiff—The +Rocking-Stone—Llandaff—Caerphilly Castle and its Leaning +Tower—Swansea—The Mumbles—Oystermouth Castle—Neath +Abbey—Caermarthen—Tenby—Manorbeer Castle—Golden +Grove—Pembroke—Milford—Haverfordwest—Milford Haven—Pictou +Castle—Carew Castle.</p></div> + + + +<h3>GLOUCESTER.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p338" id="p338"></a> +<img src="images/p338.jpg" width="550" height="298" alt="GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span> +</div> + +<p>Journeying westward from the metropolis and beyond the sources of the +Thames, let us mount to the tops of the Cotswold Hills, in which they +take their rise, and look down upon the valley of the noble Severn River +beyond. We have already seen the Severn at Shrewsbury, Wenlock, and +Bridgenorth, and, uniting with the classic Avon, it drains the western +slopes of the Cotswolds, and, flowing through a deep valley between them +and the Malvern Hills, finally debouches through a broad estuary into +the British Channel. There is much of interest to the tourist along the +banks and in neighborhood of this well-known river. As we stand upon the +elevations of the Cotswolds and look over "Sabrina fair," the lower part +of its valley is seen as a broad and fertile plain, and the Severn's +"glassy, cool, translucent wave," as the poet has it, flows through a +land of meadows, orchards, and cornfields, with the hills of the Forest +of Dean rising on the western horizon. Alongside the river is the +cathedral city of Gloucester, the dépôt for a rich agricultural region +and for the mining wealth of Dean Forest, the Berkeley Canal leading +from its docks for sixteen miles down the Severn until the deep water of +the estuary is reached. The Romans early saw the importance of this +place as a military post, and founded Glevum here, upon their Ermine +Street<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> road, as an outpost fortress upon the border-land of the +Silures. Fragments of tessellated pavements, coins, and other relics +from time to time exhumed attest the extent of the Roman settlement. +When the Britons succeeded the Romans, this settlement became gradually +transformed into Gleawecesore, forming part of the kingdom of Mercia, +and in the seventh century Æthelred bestowed it upon Osric, who founded +a monastery here. Athelstan died here in 941, and a few years afterwards +the Danes, who overrun and devastated almost the whole of England, +burned the town and monastery. The history of Gloucester, however, was +without stirring incidents, excepting an occasional destructive fire, +until the siege took place in the Civil War, its people devoting +themselves more to commerce than to politics, and in the early part of +the seventeenth century engaging extensively in the manufacture of pins. +Gloucester, however, gave the title to several earls and dukes, +generally men not much envied; as, for instance, Richard Crookback, who +sent from Gloucester the order for the murder of his nephews, the young +princes, in the Tower. But the town never took kindly to him, and warmly +welcomed Richmond on his avenging march to Bosworth Field. The siege of +Gloucester was made by King Charles's troops, the citizens having warmly +espoused the cause of the Parliament and strongly fortified their city, +mounting guns for its defence which they got from London. A polygonal +line of fortifications surrounded Gloucester, which was then much +smaller than now, and the bastions came down to the river, with outlying +works to defend a small suburb on the opposite bank.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> The Cavaliers were +in great strength in Western England, and the malignity of the +Gloucester pin-makers seriously embarrassed them. On August 10, 1643, +the siege began with a summons to surrender, which the authorities +refused. Parts of the suburbs were then burned, and next morning a +bombardment began, red-hot balls and heavy stones being plentifully +thrown into the place, knocking the houses into sad havoc, but in no +wise damping the sturdy courage of the defenders. They replied bravely +with their cannon and made repeated sorties, which inflicted serious +damage upon the besiegers. After over three weeks of this sport, the +Royalists shot an arrow into the town, September 3, with a message in +these words: "These are to let you understand your god Waller hath +forsaken you and hath retired himself to the Tower of London; Essex is +beaten like a dog: yield to the king's mercy in time; otherwise, if we +enter perforce, no quarter for such obstinate traitorly rogues.—From a +Well-wisher." This conciliatory message was defiantly answered in a +prompt reply signed "Nicholas Cudgelyouwell;" and two days later, Prince +Rupert having suffered a defeat elsewhere, the Cavaliers abandoned the +siege. Charles II., upon his restoration, took care to have himself +proclaimed with great pomp at Gloucester, and also took the precaution +to destroy its fortifications. The castle, which had stood since the +days of the Norman Conquest, then disappeared. The west gate, the last +remains of the walls, was removed, with the old bridge across the +Severn, in 1809, to make room for a fine new bridge. This structure is +chiefly known through a humorous connection that Thackeray has given it +with King George III. That monarch made a royal visit to Gloucester, and +in his lectures on the "Four Georges" Thackeray says: "One morning, +before anybody else was up, the king walked about Gloucester town, +pushed over Molly the housemaid with her pail, who was scrubbing the +doorsteps, ran up stairs and woke all the equerries in their bedrooms, +and then trotted down to the bridge, where by this time a dozen of louts +were assembled. 'What! is this Gloucester new bridge?' asked our +gracious monarch; and the people answered him, 'Yes, Your +Majesty.'—'Why, then, my boys, let's have a hurray!' After giving them +which intellectual gratification he went home to breakfast."</p> + +<p>The town is quaint and picturesque, but the buildings generally are +modern, most of them dating from the days of good Queen Anne, but they +exhibit great variety in design. The most noted of the older Gloucester +houses is the "New Inn," on Northgate Street. After the murder of Edward +II. at Berkeley Castle, not far from Gloucester, where he had been +imprisoned in a dungeon in the keep, in 1327, his remains were brought +to the abbey church at Gloucester for interment, a shrine being raised +over them by the monks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span> The king was murdered with fiendish cruelty. +Lord Berkeley at the castle would willingly have protected him, but he +fell sick; and one dark September night Edward was given over to two +villains named Gurney and Ogle. The ancient chronicler says that the +"screams and shrieks of anguish were heard even so far as the town, so +that many, being awakened therewith from their sleep, as they themselves +confessed, prayed heartily to God to receive his soul, for they +understood by those cries what the matter meant." The king's shrine in +Gloucester naturally attracted many pilgrims, and the New Inn was built +about 1450 for their accommodation. It is a brick-and-timber house, with +corridors leading to the chambers running along the sides of the inner +court and reached by outside stairways, as was the common construction +of houses of public entertainment three or four centuries ago. The inn +remains almost as it was then, having been but slightly modernized. Most +of the pilgrims to the shrine brought offerings with them, and hence the +pains taken for their accommodation. The usual tale is told about a +subterranean passage connecting this inn with the cathedral. New Inn is +enormously strong and massive, and covers a broad surface, being +constructed around two courtyards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p340" id="p340"></a> +<img src="images/p340.jpg" width="600" height="532" alt="NEW INN, GLOUCESTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NEW INN, GLOUCESTER.</span> +</div> + +<p>Gloucester has many churches in proportion to its size—in fact, so many +that "as sure as God is in Gloucester" used to be a proverb. Oliver +Cromwell, though the city had stood sturdily by him, differed with this, +however, for a saying of his is still quoted, that "there be more +churches than godliness in Gloucester." In later days the first +Sunday-school in England was opened here, and just outside the city are +the fragmentary remains of the branch of Llanthony Priory to which the +monks migrated from the Welsh Border. The chief attraction of +Gloucester, however, is the cathedral, and the ruins of the Benedictine +monastery to which it was formerly attached. The cathedral is of +considerable size, being four hundred and twenty feet long, and is +surmounted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> by a much-admired central tower. The light and graceful +tracery of its parapets and pinnacles gives especial character to the +exterior of Gloucester Cathedral, and when the open-work tracery is +projected against the red glow of sunset an unrivalled effect is +produced. This tower is two hundred and twenty-five feet high, and forms +an admirable centre to the masses of buildings clustered around it. The +monastery, founded by Osric in the seventh century, stood on this site, +but after the Danes burned it a convent was built, which passed into the +hands of the Benedictines in 1022. One of these monks was the "Robert of +Gloucester" who in 1272 wrote in rhyme a chronicle of English history +from the siege of Troy to the death of Henry II. Their church was +repeatedly burned and rebuilt, but it was not until the shrine of Edward +II. was placed in it that the religious establishment throve. The rich +harvest brought by the pilgrims to this shrine led to the reconstruction +of the older church, by encasing the shell with Perpendicular work in +the lower part and completely rebuilding the upper portion. This was in +the fourteenth century, and by the close of the next century the +cathedral appeared as it is now seen. Entering the fine southern porch, +we are ushered into the splendid Norman nave bordered by exceptionally +high piers, rising thirty feet, and surmounted by a low triforium and +clerestory. The design is rather dwarfed by thus impoverishing the upper +stories. The choir has an enormous east window, made wider than the +choir itself by an ingenious arrangement of the walls; and this retains +most of the old stained glass. The choir has recently been restored, and +in the old woodwork the seat of the mayor is retained opposite the +throne of the bishop. On the floor an oblong setting of tiles marks the +grave of William the Conqueror's son Robert, who died at Cardiff, and +whose monument stands in an adjoining chapel. The Lady Chapel is east of +the choir, and has a "whispering gallery" over its entrance. Beneath the +choir is the crypt, antedating the Norman Conquest, and one of the +remains of the original church of the Benedictines. On the south side of +the choir is the monument to Edward II., standing in an archway. The +effigy is of alabaster, and is surmounted by a beautiful sculptured +canopy. The cloisters north of the nave are most attractive, the roof +being vaulted in fan-patterns of great richness. There can still be seen +along the north walk of these cloisters the lavatories for the monks, +with the troughs into which the water flowed and the recesses in the +wall above to contain the towels. Beyond the cloisters are the other +remains of the monastery, now generally incorporated into houses. +Gloucester has been a bishop's see since the reign of Henry VIII., and +one of its bishops was the zealous Reformer who was martyred in sight of +his own cathedral—John Hooper: his statue stands in St. Mary's Square, +where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> Queen Mary had him burned as a heretic. Gloucester also has its +Spa, a chalybeate spring recently discovered in the south-eastern +suburbs, but the town is chiefly known to fame abroad by its salmon and +lampreys. The lamprey is caught in the Severn and potted for export, +having been considered a dainty by the epicures of remote as well as +modern times. It was in great request in the time of King John, when we +are told "the men of Gloucester gave forty marks to that king to have +his good will, because they regarded him not as they ought in the matter +of their lampreys." This was the favorite dish of Henry I. (Beauclerc), +and over-indulgence in lampreys finally killed him. It was the custom +until 1836 for the corporation of Gloucester to send every Christmas to +the sovereign "a lamprey pie with a raised crust."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p342" id="p342"></a> +<img src="images/p342.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="MONKS' LAVATORY, GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MONKS' LAVATORY, GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>TEWKESBURY.</h3> + +<p><a name="p343" id="p343"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 397px;"> +<img src="images/p343.jpg" width="397" height="450" alt="TEWKESBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TEWKESBURY.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Let us ascend the valley of the Severn, and in the centre of its broad +plain, at the confluence of the Avon, find another great religious house +in the smaller but equally noted town of Tewkesbury. All around are rich +meadows, and here, away from the hills, was the ideal site for a +monastery according to the ancient notion, where the languor of the +gentle air prevented the blood flowing with too quick pulse. The Avon, +spanned by an old arched bridge, washes one side of the town; the +massive abbey-tower rises above a fringe of foliage and orchards, while +on the one hand the horizon is bounded by the steep Cotswolds, and on +the other by the broken masses of the Malverns. Close to the town, on +its western verge, flows the Severn, crossed by a fine modern iron +bridge. Tewkesbury is known to fame by its mustard, its abbey, and its +battle. The renown of the Tewkesbury mustard goes back for at least +three centuries: as "thick as Tewkesbury mustard" was a proverb of +Falstaff's. That old-time historian Fuller says of it, "The best in +England (to take no larger compass) is made at Tewkesbury. It is very +wholesome for the clearing of the head,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> moderately taken." But, +unfortunately, the reputation of Tewkesbury for this commodity has +declined in modern times.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p344" id="p344"></a> +<img src="images/p344.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="TEWKESBURY ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TEWKESBURY ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>The history of Tewkesbury Abbey comes from misty antiquity, and it is +thought by some to have been named "Dukes-borough" from two ancient +Britons, Dukes Odda and Dudda, but others say it commemorates a +missionary monk named Theoe, who founded a little church there in the +seventh century. Brictric, King of Wessex, was buried within its walls +in the ninth century, and, like Gloucester, it suffered afterwards from +the ravages of the Danes. But it flourished subsequently, and in the +days of William Rufus the manor was conferred upon Fitz-Hamon, an +influential nobleman, under whose auspices the present abbey was built. +Nothing remains of any prior building. The church was begun in 1100, but +the builder was killed in battle before it was completed. It is in the +form of a cross with short transepts, and a tower rising from the +centre. The choir was originally terminated by apses, which can still be +traced, and there were other apses on the eastern side of each transept. +While the outlines of most of the abbey are Norman, the choir is almost +all of later date. The western front has the singular feature of being +almost all occupied by an enormous and deeply-recessed Norman arch, into +which a doorway and tracery were inserted about two hundred years ago, +replacing one blown down by a storm in 1661. This abbey church was +dedicated in 1123, and the services were almost the last diocesan act of +Theulf, bishop of Worcester. One of the dedication ceremonies was +quaint. As the bishop came to the middle of the nave, we are told that +he found part of the pavement spread with white wood-ashes, upon which +he wrote the alphabet twice with his pastoral staff—first the Greek +alphabet from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span> north-east to south-west, and then the Latin, from +south-east to north-west, thus placing them in the form of a cross. He +signified by this ceremony that all divine revelation was conveyed by +the letters of the alphabet, and that the gospel comprehended under the +shadow of the cross men of all races and all languages. The time had +been when at such consecrations three alphabets were written—the +Hebrew, Greek, and Latin—as the title on the cross had been written in +these three tongues, but the Hebrew was early discontinued, "probably," +writes Blunt, the historian of Tewkesbury Abbey, "because even bishops +might not always be able to manage their Alpha Beta in that character." +The best views of the abbey are from the south-east, and the interior is +regarded as more remarkable than the exterior. The nave is of singular +grandeur, its round Norman columns being exceptionally lofty. The +triforium is stunted, and consists merely of two pairs of small arches, +above which the ribs of a noble fretted roof expand, so that it appears +as if the roof were immediately supported by the columns of the nave. +The choir is short and hexagonal, being only sixty-six feet from the +reredos, and is surrounded by a number of polygonal chapels, as at +Westminster Abbey, with which it appears quite similar in plan. The Lady +Chapel, originally at the east end, has been entirely destroyed. There +are several monuments of great interest in these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> chapels, some of them +in the form of chantries—being exquisite cages in stone-work—within +which are the tombs of the founders. Here lie some of the chief nobility +of England who in the days of the Plantagenets were the lords of +Tewkesbury—the Beauchamps, Nevilles, De Clares, and Despensers. +Fitz-Hamon's tomb was not erected until the fourteenth century. Here lie +Clarence and his wife, Isabel, the daughter of Warwick the "King-maker," +and also the murdered son of Henry VI., who was "stabbed in the field by +Tewkesbury," with other victims of that fatal battle. The remains of the +cloisters lie to the south of the abbey, and beyond is the ancient +gateway, of rather unusual plan.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;"> +<a name="p345" id="p345"></a> +<img src="images/p345.jpg" width="340" height="450" alt="THE CHOIR OF TEWKESBURY ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHOIR OF TEWKESBURY ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>The battle of Tewkesbury, which sealed the fate of the Lancastrian party +in England, was fought in 1471 upon the Bloody Meadow, then called the +Vineyard, just outside the town and to the southward of the abbey. The +Lancastrian line was soon broken, and the fight became practically a +slaughter, as the defeated party were forced back upon the town and into +the very abbey itself. Many of the fugitives sought refuge in the +church, and the Yorkists followed them, striking down their victims in +the graveyard, and even within the church-doors. The abbot, taking in +his hand the sacred Host, confronted King Edward himself in the porch +and forbade him to pollute the house of God with blood, and would not +allow him to enter until he had promised mercy to those who had sought +refuge inside. This clemency, however, was short-lived, for in the +afternoon the young Prince of Wales, Henry VI.'s son, was brought before +Edward and murdered by his attendants. Shakespeare represents Edward as +dealing the first blow with a dagger, but the truer story seems to be +that, enraged by a haughty answer from the young prince, he struck him +in the face with his gauntlet, which the bystanders accepted as a signal +for the murder. Two days afterwards a number of the chief captives were +executed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>WORCESTER.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p346" id="p346"></a> +<img src="images/p346.jpg" width="650" height="452" alt="WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SEVERN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SEVERN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 452px;"> +<a name="p348" id="p348"></a> +<img src="images/p348.jpg" width="452" height="600" alt="THE CHOIR OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHOIR OF WORCESTER CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Still ascending the valley of the Severn, we come to Worcester, another +of the military stations of the Romans, established to hold this rich, +fertile, and coveted region. Its cathedral, and, in fact, much of the +town, stand upon an elevated ridge, with the river flowing at the base. +To this day Worcester retains the plan of the original Roman camp, but +it does not seem to have made at that time much mark in history. The +Britons captured it, and named the place Wigoma Ceaster, and it was +afterwards incorporated into Mercia. In the eleventh century a castle +was built near the Severn, and the earlier kings of England were +frequently its residents. King John had great veneration for St. +Wulstan, the founder of Worcester Cathedral, and he was laid to rest +beside that saint's shrine. Worcester suffered the usual penalties of +the towns in the Severn Valley: it was destroyed by the Danes and burned +by Hardicanute, and in the twelfth century town, castle, and cathedral +were all consumed by a fire supposed to be caused by the Welsh. It was +partially burned three times subsequently in that century, and in Henry +III.'s reign Simon de Montfort and his son were defeated and slain on +the neighboring hills. The final conflagration was caused by Owen +Glendower in 1401, after which quieter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span> times came until the Civil War. +Worcester was zealous for King Charles, and suffered from two sieges, +being the last city that held out for the royal cause. It was the scene +of Charles II.'s first and unsuccessful effort to regain the English +crown. He had been acknowledged and crowned by the Scots, and attempted +the invasion of England. His army marched down through the western +counties, while Cromwell kept between him and London. He reached +Worcester, when Cromwell determined to attack him, and marched the +Parliamentary army to the outskirts of the city, encamping on Red Hill, +where he intrenched. Sending part of his troops across the Severn, on +September 3, 1651, Cromwell attacked Worcester on both sides, leading +the van of the main body in person. Young Charles held a council of war +in the cathedral-tower, and when he descended to personally lead the +defence, the fight had become hot; and it lasted several hours, Cromwell +describing the battle as being "as stiff a contest as I have ever seen." +The Scots were outnumbered and beaten, but would not surrender, and the +battle did not close till nightfall. Then it was found that, while +Cromwell had suffered inconsiderable loss, the royal forces had lost six +thousand men and all their artillery and baggage. Charles fought +bravely, and narrowly avoided capture. A handful of troops defended +Sidbury Gate, leading in from the suburb of the town where the battle +had been hottest. Charles had to dismount and creep under an overturned +hay-wagon, and, entering the gate, mounted a horse and rode to the +corn-market, where he escaped with Lord Wilmot through the back door of +a house, while some of his officers beat off Cobbett's troops who +attacked the front. Upon this house, built in 1557, is still read the +inscription, "Love God; honor the king." Then getting out of the city, +Charles escaped into the wood of Boscobel, and after a series of +romantic adventures managed to reach the seacoast in Sussex, and on +October 15th embarked at Shoreham for France. It was in this battle that +Worcester earned the motto it still bears of "Civitas fidelis."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p349" id="p349"></a> +<img src="images/p349.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="RUINS OF THE GUESTEN HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE GUESTEN HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Worcester's most conspicuous building is the cathedral, its tower being +prominently seen from miles around. Its western front overlooks the +Severn, and the ground-plan is an elongated rectangle with small double +transepts. The choir and portions of the nave are the original work, +most of the remainder being restored. St. Dunstan's successor, Bishop +Oswald, built the first cathedral here, and during the progress of the +work he met an unexpected check. The ancient chronicler tells us that a +large stone became immovable, and despite every exertion could not be +brought to its proper place. "St. Oswald," he continues, "after praying +earnestly, beheld 'Ethiopem quendam' sitting upon the stone and mocking +the builders: the sign of the cross removed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> him effectually." No +portion of this original building remains, the earliest parts of the +present cathedral dating from Bishop Wulstan's time, in the eleventh +century. Wulstan was a man of piety and simplicity who retained his see +after the Norman Conquest. The increasing number of monks in the +monastery compelled the removal of Oswald's church to make more room, +and Wulstan regretfully built the new cathedral, saying he was pulling +down the church of a far holier man than himself. Miracles were frequent +at Wulstan's tomb, and in 1203 he was canonized. His church was +unlucky—several times partly burned, and once the central tower fell, +and afterwards the two western towers during storms; but it was always +repaired, and in 1218, St. Wulstan's remains were removed to a shrine +near the high altar, and the cathedral rededicated in the presence of +Henry III. The interior view is striking, the arches of the nave, +triforium, and clerestory being in harmonious proportions. In the middle +of the choir is King John's monument, the effigy representing him +crowned and in royal robes, holding the sceptre and the sword, the point +of the latter inserted in the mouth of a lion on which his feet rest. We +are told that in 1797 the coffin was found beneath the tomb, with the +apparel partially mouldered, but the remains all gone. There are several +other monuments in the cathedral—one a mural slab commemorating Anne, +wife of Izaak Walton, "a woman of remarkable prudence and of the +primitive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> piety." The crypt beneath the choir is a remnant of Wulstan's +work, and the old doors of the cathedral, dating from the thirteenth +century, are preserved there: fragments of human skin are still seen +upon them, reputed to have been that of a man who was flayed for +stealing a holy bell. In the north walk of the cloisters is the +grave-slab famous for bearing the shortest and saddest inscription in +England, "Miserrimus:" it is said to cover one of the minor canons, +named Morris, who declined to take the oath of allegiance to William +III. and had to be supported by alms. Around the cloisters are the ruins +of the ancient monastery, the most prominent fragments being those of +the Guesten Hall, erected in 1320. Access to the cathedral close, on the +south-eastern side, is obtained through an ancient gateway called the +Edgar Tower, one of the earliest structures connected with the +cathedral, which is still fairly preserved: it was evidently intended +for defence. The bishops of Worcester present an unbroken line for +twelve centuries, including, in later days, Latimer the martyr, +Prideaux, and Stillingfleet. It was in Worcester Cathedral, on October +23, 1687, that James II. touched several persons to cure the scrofula<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> +or king's evil; and when William III. afterwards visited Worcester he +yielded to sundry entreaties to touch sufferers, but in doing so said, +"God give you better health and more sense!" These were about the last +"touchings" known in England. Upon James II.'s visit he attended mass at +the Catholic chapel, and was waited upon to the door by the mayor and +corporation officers, but they declined to enter a Roman Catholic place +of worship. A minute in the corporation proceedings explains that they +passed the time until the service was over in smoking and drinking at +the Green Dragon Inn, loyally charging the bill to the city. Worcester +in ancient times was famous for its cloth, but other places have since +eclipsed it. It is now noted mainly for gloves, fine porcelain, and +Worcester Sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 535px;"> +<a name="p350" id="p350"></a> +<img src="images/p350.jpg" width="535" height="600" alt="CLOSE IN WORCESTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CLOSE IN WORCESTER.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE MALVERN HILLS.</h3> + +<p>The broad valley of the Severn is bounded on its western side by the +boldly-rising Malvern range of hills, which are elevated so steeply and +so suddenly above the plain that they produce an impression of size and +height much greater than they really possess, and are more imposing than +many summits that far surpass them in magnitude. There is reason, +therefore, in Mrs. Browning's poetic expression:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Malvern Hills, for mountains counted</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not unduly, form a row."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The Malvern range is a ridge running nearly north and south, with a +series of smooth, steep summits, the breadth of the range being barely +half a mile. Their slopes are of turf and furze, often as steep as the +pitched roof of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span> house, with crags projecting here and there. The +chief summits are the North Hill, rising eleven hundred and fifty-one +feet above the Severn, the Worcestershire Beacon, fourteen hundred and +forty-four feet, and the Herefordshire Beacon, thirteen hundred and +seventy feet. Their highest parts are covered with verdure, and nearly +seventeen hundred different varieties of plants have been found on the +range. These hills stand as one of Nature's bulwarks, an outwork of the +mountain-region of Wales, dividing an upland from a lowland district, +each furnishing totally different characteristics. They were the +boundary between the Romans and the Britons, and their summits present +some remarkable remains of ancient fortifications. The Worcestershire +Beacon rises directly above the town of Great Malvern, and south of it a +fissure called the Wyche sinks down to about nine hundred feet +elevation, enabling a road to be carried across the ridge. Some distance +south of this there is an even lower depression, by which the high-road +crosses from Worcester to Hereford. Then to the southward is the +Herefordshire Beacon, and beyond it several lower summits. These two +gaps or gateways in this natural wall of defence are both guarded by +ancient camps of unusual strength and still in good preservation. One of +these camps on the Herefordshire Beacon, with ditches, ramparts, and a +keep, encloses forty-four acres. Also on top of the ridge are found +traces of the ditch that was dug to mark the dividing-lines between the +hunting-grounds of the bishops who ruled on either hand in Hereford and +in Worcester. The bishops in the olden time appear to have been as keen +sportsmen as the nobles.</p> + +<p>The town of Great Malvern, on the eastern slope of the hills, is +elevated five hundred and twenty feet, and is in high repute as a +watering-place. It had its origin in a priory, of which there still +remains the fine old church, with a surmounting gray tower and an +entrance-gateway which have escaped the general ruin of the monastery. +Within this ancient church the ornaments of some of the old stalls in +the choir are very quaint, representing a man leading a bear, a dying +miser handing his money-bags to the priest and doctor, and three rats +solemnly hanging a cat on a gallows. The priory was the nucleus about +which gathered the town, or, properly speaking, the towns, for there are +a series of them, all well-known watering-places. Great Malvern has +North Malvern alongside it and Malvern Link on the lower hills, while to +the southward are Malvern Wells and Little Malvern, with West Malvern +over on the Hereford side of the ridge. They are aggregations of pretty +villas, and the many invalids who seek their relief are drawn about in +Bath-chairs by little donkeys. The view from the Worcestershire Beacon +is grand, extending over a broad surface in all directions, for we are +told that when the beacon-fires<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span> that were lighted upon this elevated +ridge warned England of the approach of the Spanish Armada,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Twelve fair counties saw the blaze</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">From Malvern's lonely height."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The advantages the Malvern range offers as a sanitarium are pure air and +pure water. The towns are elevated above the fogs of the valleys, and +the rainfall is small, while both winter's cold and summer's heat are +tempered. St. Anne's Well and the Holy Well are the great sources of +pure water. The latter is at Malvern Wells, and the former on the side +of the Worcestershire Beacon, at an elevation of eight hundred and +twenty feet. Both are slightly alkaline, but St. Anne's Well is the most +famous, and is tastefully enclosed. Water-cure establishments abound +here, and with such air, such water, and such magnificent scenery it is +no wonder that the Malvern Hills are among the most popular resorts of +England.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p352" id="p352"></a> +<img src="images/p352.jpg" width="500" height="401" alt="ST. ANNE'S WELL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. ANNE'S WELL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE RIVER WYE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="p353-1" id="p353-1"></a> +<img src="images/p353-1.jpg" width="425" height="550" alt="BUTCHERS' ROW, HEREFORD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BUTCHERS' ROW, HEREFORD.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;"> +<a name="p353-2" id="p353-2"></a> +<img src="images/p353-2.jpg" width="363" height="550" alt="OUTHOUSE WHERE NELL GWYNNE WAS BORN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OUTHOUSE WHERE NELL GWYNNE WAS BORN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p354" id="p354"></a> +<img src="images/p354.jpg" width="600" height="569" alt="HEREFORD CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>From the top of the Malvern Hills the western view looks down upon the +attractive valley of the river Wye, a famous stream that takes its rise +in the mountains of Wales, and after flowing through Herefordshire and +Monmouthshire falls into the Severn. Rising on the south-eastern side of +Plynlimmon, a group of three mountains elevated nearly twenty-five +hundred feet, it is one of five rivers whose sources are almost in the +same spot, but which flow in opposite directions—the Llyffnant, +Rheidol, Dyfi, Severn, and Wye. For miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> it is a mountain torrent, +receiving other streams, and flowing eastward through Radnor and +Brecknock, where it is the resort of artists and anglers. It passes near +the burial-place of Llewellyn, the last native Prince of Wales, who died +in 1282, and then, bordered by railway and highway, comes down through +picturesque ravines past Hay and its ruined castle in a beautiful glen +at the base of the Black Mountains, which rise abruptly from its +southern bank. Near Hay, and overlooking the river, are the ruins of +Clifford Castle, which was the birthplace of "Fair Rosamond." Here the +Wye enters Herefordshire, the valley broadens, and the stream gradually +leads us to the ancient town of Hereford, standing chiefly on its +northern bank and in a delightful situation. This city does not lay +claim to Roman origin, but it was nevertheless one of the fortified +outposts of England on the border of Wales, and was often the scene of +warfare. It was walled and vigorously defended, while hostelries and +chapels were erected for the accommodation of pilgrims and other +visitors. Hereford contained the shrines of St. Ethelbert and St. Thomas +Cantelupe, but its chief relic of antiquity is the house that remains of +the "old Butchers' Row," which was originally a large and irregular +cluster of wooden buildings placed nearly in the middle of the locality<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span> +known as the High Town. All but one of these houses have been taken +down, and the one that remains shows window-frames, doors, stairs, and +floors all made of thick and solid masses of timber, apparently +constructed to last for ages. A shield over one of the doors bears a +boar's head and three bulls' heads, having two winged bulls for +supporters and another bull for a crest. On other parts are emblems of +the slaughter-house, such as ropes, rings, and axes. Thus did our +English ancestors caricature the imaginary dignity of heraldry. This +attractive old house is a relic of the days of James I. Nell Gwynne was +born in Hereford, and the small cottage in Pipe Lane which was her +birthplace has only recently been pulled down. It was a little +four-roomed house, and an outhouse opening on the Wye, which was +standing in poor Nelly's days, remains. Hereford Cathedral is a fine +Norman structure, begun in the eleventh century and recently restored. +The most imposing portion of the interior is the north transept, which +was built to receive the shrine of Cantelupe. The remains of the Black +Friars' monastery are in the Widemarsh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> suburb. They consist chiefly of +an interesting relic of that religious order, an hexagonal +preaching-cross standing on a flight of steps and open on each side. +Hereford Castle has disappeared, but its site is an attractive public +walk overlooking the Wye, called the Castle Green.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 321px;"> +<a name="p355" id="p355"></a> +<img src="images/p355.jpg" width="321" height="450" alt="OLD NAVE, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD NAVE, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE MAN OF ROSS.</h3> + + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p356" id="p356"></a> +<img src="images/p356.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="HOUSE OF THE MAN OF ROSS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HOUSE OF THE “MAN OF ROSS.”</span> +</div> + + + +<p>The Wye flows on through a fairly open valley, with broad meadows +extending from the bases of the wooded hills to the river. On +approaching Ross the meadows contract, the hills come nearer together, +and the new phase of scenery in the glen which here begins makes the Wye +the most beautiful among English rivers. Ross stands at the entrance to +the glen, built upon a sloping hill which descends steeply to the Wye. +It was the Ariconium of the Romans, and has been almost without stirring +history. It has grown in all these centuries to be a town of about four +thousand five hundred population, with considerable trade, being the +centre of a rich agricultural section, and is chiefly known to fame as +the home of Pope's "Man of Ross." This was John Kyrle, who was born at +the village of Dymock, not far away, May 22, 1637. He was educated at +Balliol College, Oxford, where they still preserve a piece of plate +which he presented as a parting gift. He afterwards settled at Ross, and +lived to an advanced age, dying November 11, 1724. He was described as +"nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> six feet high, strong and lusty made, jolly and ruddy in the +face, with a large nose." His claim to immortality, which has made his +name a household word in England, cannot better be described than by +quoting some of Pope's lines:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 533px;"> +<a name="p357" id="p357"></a> +<img src="images/p357.jpg" width="533" height="600" alt="MARKET PLACE ROSS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MARKET PLACE ROSS."</span> +</div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Who hung with woods yon mountain's sultry brow?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From the dry soil who bade the waters flow?...</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose causeway parts the vale with shady rows?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose seats the weary traveller repose?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Who taught that heaven-directed spire to rise?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'The Man of Ross,' each lisping babe replies.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Behold the market-place with poor o'erspread!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Man of Ross divides the weekly bread:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He feeds yon almshouse, neat, but void of state,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where age and want sit smiling at the gate:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Him portioned maids, apprenticed orphans blest,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The young who labor, and the old who rest.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Is any sick? The Man of Ross relieves.</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prescribes, attends, the med'cine makes and gives.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Is there a variance? Enter but his door.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Balked are the courts and contest is no more....</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thrice happy man! enabled to pursue</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What all so wish, but want the power to do!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh say what sums that generous hand supply,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What mines to swell that boundless charity?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of debts and taxes, wife and children, clear.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That man possessed—five hundred pounds a year!"</span><br /> +</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 545px;"> +<a name="p358-1" id="p358-1"></a> +<img src="images/p358-1.jpg" width="545" height="550" alt="ROSS CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROSS CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p358-2" id="p358-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 373px;"> + +<img src="images/p358-2.jpg" width="373" height="450" alt="THE TREE IN ROSS CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TREE IN ROSS CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is not often that a man can do so much to benefit his townsfolk out +of the modest income of $2500 a year; and not only Pope, but Coleridge +also, has found this a theme for verse. The house in which the "Man of +Ross" lived is on the left-hand side of the market-place, and still +stands, though much changed. It is now a drug-store and a dwelling. The +floors and panelling of several of the chambers are of oak, while a +quaint opening leads to a narrow corridor and into a small room, which +tradition says was his bedroom, where he endured his last and only +illness, and died. The bedroom looks out upon his garden, divided like +the house, one-half being converted into a bowling-green. The +surrounding walls are overrun with vines and bordered by pear trees. On +the other side of the market-place is the town-hall, standing on an +eminence and facing the principal street, which comes up from the +river-bank. This hall is somewhat dilapidated, though still in daily +use, and is supported on crumbling pillars of red sandstone. Ross is +chiefly built upon the slope of a hill, terminating in a plateau, one +side of which the Wye, flowing through a horseshoe bend, has scarped out +into a river-cliff. Upon this plateau stands the little Ross Church with +its tall spire, a striking building in a singularly fortunate situation. +The churchyard, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span> an adjoining public garden called the Prospect, +extends to the brow of the cliff. The church is cruciform, and its spire +the landmark for the surrounding country. It was built in the fourteenth +century, but is without architectural features. The "Man of Ross" rests +within its walls, buried near the altar under a blue slab. His memory is +the most cherished remembrance of Ross, and is mellowed as the ages +pass. His fireside chair stands in the chancel, and they also show a +book containing his autograph. A tablet to his memory is inserted in the +wall, erected by a distant relative, Lady Betty Dupplin, for it is said, +as is usually the case, that his good deeds excited more enthusiasm in +strangers than among the people whom he benefited. Within the church, in +front of a window, two trees are growing, another indirect and +posthumous memorial of the "Man of Ross." They appeared about fifty +years ago, and the story is that a rector of the parish had cut down a +tree on the outside of the wall which the "Man of Ross" had originally +planted, whereupon these suckers made their appearance within the +building and asserted the vitality of the parent tree. They shot up +against the seat which is said to have been his favorite one, and though +at first objected to, the church-wardens bowed to the inevita<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span>ble, and +they are now among the most prized relics within the church. The public +garden (the Prospect) adjoining the churchyard was another benefaction +of the "Man of Ross," and with some private houses and a hotel it crowns +the summit of the plateau. Here the hand of the "Man of Ross" again +appears in a row of noble elms around the churchyard which he is said to +have planted, some of them of great size. The view from the Prospect, +however, is the town's chief present glory. It stands on the brink of +the river-cliff, with the Wye sweeping at its feet around the apex of +the long horseshoe curve. Within the curve is the grassy Oak Meadow +dotted with old trees. On either hand are meadows and cornfields, with +bits of wood, and the Welsh hills rise in the distance.</p> + + + +<h3>GOODRICH CASTLE AND SYMOND'S YAT.</h3> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p359" id="p359"></a> +<img src="images/p359.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="RUINS OF GOODRICH CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF GOODRICH CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p360" id="p360"></a> +<img src="images/p360.jpg" width="600" height="265" alt="A BEND OF THE RIVER WYE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A BEND OF THE RIVER WYE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Wye flows on through its picturesque glen towards Monmouth, the +water bubbling with a strong current. A raised causeway carries the road +to Monmouth over the meadows. On the right hand are the ruins of Wilton +Castle, built in Stephen's reign, and burned in the Civil War. Tourists +go by small boats floated on the current down the Wye, and the boats are +hauled back on donkey-carts, little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span> trains of them being seen creeping +along the Monmouth road. From Ross to Monmouth the river flows through a +region of rolling hills, with abrupt declivities where the rapid stream +has scarped the margin into cliffs and ridges. The valley narrows, and +the very crooked river flows through bewitching scenery until by another +great horseshoe bend it winds around the ruins of Goodrich Castle, +reared upon a wooded cliff, with Goodrich Court near by. The latter is a +modern imitation of a mediæval dwelling, constructed according to the +erratic whims of a recent owner. This Court once contained the finest +collection of ancient armor in England, but most of it has been +transferred to the South Kensington Museum. Goodrich Castle was once a +formidable fortress, and it dates from the reign of Stephen. Here it was +that in the days of Edward the Confessor, "entrenched in a stockade of +wood, Goderic de Winchcomb held the ford" over the Wye, and gave the +place his name. It grew in strength until the Civil War, when Sir +Richard Lingen held it for the king. This was a memorable contest, +lasting six weeks, during which the besiegers belabored it with the best +battering-cannon they could procure, and used up eighty barrels of +gunpowder voted by Parliament for the purpose. Then the defenders +demanded a parley, but the assailants, angry at being so long baulked of +their prey, insisted upon unconditional surrender. Afterwards the castle +was demolished, but the fine old keep remains in good preservation, +commanding a grand view over the winding valley of the Wye and to the +Forest of Dean in one direction and the Malvern Hills in another. The +ruins are of a quadrangular fortress, and within the courtyard +Wordsworth once met the child whose prattle suggested his familiar poem, +"We are Seven." Little now remains of Goodrich Priory, but the parish +church of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span> village can be seen afar off, and contains a chalice +presented by Dean Swift, whose grandfather, Thomas Swift, was once its +rector.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p361" id="p361"></a> +<img src="images/p361.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="IN SYMOND'S YAT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">IN SYMOND'S YAT.</span> +</div> + +<p>Below Goodrich this wayward river makes an enormous loop, wherein it +goes wandering about for eight miles and accomplishes just one mile's +distance. Here it becomes a boundary between the two Bickner +villages—Welsh Bickner and English Bickner. To the eastward is the +Forest of Dean, covering over twenty-six thousand acres, and including +extensive coal-pits and iron-works, the smoke from the latter +overhanging the valley. The river-channel is dug deeply into the +limestone rocks, whose fissured and ivy-clad cliffs rise high above the +water, varied by occasional green meadows, where cattle are feeding. The +river bends sharply to the westward past the crags at Coldwell, and then +doubles back upon its former course. This second bend is around a high +limestone plateau which is the most singular feature of the beautiful +glen. The river sweeps in an elongated loop of about five miles, and +returns to within eighteen hundred feet of its former channel, and the +plateau rises six hundred feet to the apex of the headland that mounts +guard over the grand curve—the famous Symond's Yat. On the top are the +remains of an ancient British fort, and rocks, woods, fields, and +meadows slope down to the river on almost every side, making a +bewitching scene. It was here that the Northman Vikings in 911 fortified +themselves after they landed on the Severn and penetrated through the +Forest of Dean. They were led by Eric in quest of plunder, and captured +a bishop, who was afterwards ransomed for two hundred dollars. Their +foray roused the people, who besieged the Vikings, forming a square +encampment which commanded their fortification, and remains of which are +still visible. They drove the Vikings out with their hail of arrows, and +punished them so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span> terribly that the defile down which they fled is still +known as "The Slaughter." The remnant who escaped afterwards surrendered +on condition of being allowed to quit the country, and their experience +had such wholesome influence that no Vikings came that way afterwards.</p> + +<p>The Wye next bends around two bold limestone hills known as the Great +and the Little Doward, each surmounted by ancient encampments, where +arrowheads and other relics, not to forget the bones of a giant, have +been found. In fact, bones seem to be a prolific product of this region, +for the "bone-caves" of the Dowards produce the relics of many animals +long vanished from the kingdom, and also disclose rude weapons of flint, +showing that the primitive races of men were here with them. Beds of +stalagmites, sand, and gravel covered these relics, deposited by an +ancient stream which geologists say flowed three hundred feet above the +present bed of the Wye. Then we come to the richly-wooded deer-park of +the Leys with its exquisite views, and here the wildly romantic scenery +is gradually subdued into a more open valley and a straighter stream as +the Wye flows on towards Monmouth. The parts of the river just described +are not more renowned for their beauty, though considered the finest in +England, than for their salmon, and we are told that three men with a +net have been known to catch a ton of salmon in a day, while the +fishery-rights are let at over $100,000 annually.</p> + + + +<h3>MONMOUTH.</h3> + +<p>The beautiful valley, with its picturesque scenery, expands somewhat as +the Wye approaches its junction with the river Monnow and flows through +a succession of green meadows. Here, between the two rivers on a low +spur, a prolongation of their bordering hills, stands Monmouth, its +ancient suburbs spreading across the Monnow. From the market-place, the +chief street of the town leads down to these suburbs, crossing over an +old-time bridge. The town has its church and the ruins of a priory, +while perched on a cliff overlooking the Monnow is its castle, +displaying rather extensive but not very attractive remains. John of +Monmouth is said to have built this castle in the reign of Henry III. +Here also lived at one time John of Gaunt and his son, Harry Hereford, +who afterwards became Henry IV., and the latter's son, Harry Monmouth, +was born in this old castle, growing up to become the wild "Prince Hal," +and afterwards the victor at Agincourt. They still show a narrow window, +with remains of tracery, as marking the room in which he first saw the +light. Thus has "Prince Hal" become the patron of Monmouth, and his +statue stands in front of the town-hall, representing the king in full +armor, and inscribed, "Henry V., born at Monmouth August 9, 1387," but +it is not regarded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> as remarkable for its artistic finish. The remains +of the old priory are utilized for a school. It was founded by the +Benedictines in the reign of Henry I., and in it lived Geoffrey of +Monmouth, a familiar author in days when books were few. He was Bishop +of St. Asaph's in the year 1152, and wrote his <i>History of the Britons</i>, +wherein he combined all the fables of the time so ingeniously with the +truth that they became alike history. Out of his imagination grew the +tale of the "Round Table" and its knights.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p363-1" id="p363-1"></a> +<img src="images/p363-1.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="MONMOUTH BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MONMOUTH BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;"> +<a name="p363-2" id="p363-2"></a> +<img src="images/p363-2.jpg" width="489" height="550" alt="GATE ON MONMOUTH BRIDGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATE ON MONMOUTH BRIDGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Upon the old bridge crossing the Monnow stands an ancient gate-house, +constructed in the style that prevailed in the thirteenth century, but +it is doubtful if this was a military work, its probable use being the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> +collection of tolls on the produce brought into the town. It is pierced +with postern arches for the foot-passengers, and still retains the place +for its portcullis. All around the Monmouth market-place are the old +houses where the celebrated Monmouth caps were made that were so popular +in old times, and of which Fluellen spoke when he told Henry V., "If +Your Majesty is remembered of it, the Welshmen did good service in a +garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps." +Monmouth is not a large town, having but six thousand inhabitants, but +it takes a mayor, four aldermen, two bailiffs, and twelve councillors to +govern them, and its massive county-jail is a solid warning to all +evil-doers. From the summit of the lofty Kymin Hill, rising seven +hundred feet on the eastern side of the town, there is a grand panorama +over the valley of the Wye. This hill is surmounted by a pavilion and +temple, built in 1800 to record the naval victories of England in the +American wars. Farther down the valley was the home of the late Lord +Raglan, and here are the ruins of Raglan Castle, built in the fifteenth +century. For ten weeks in the Civil War the venerable Marquis of +Worcester held this castle against Fairfax's siege, but the redoubtable +old hero, who was aged eighty-four, ultimately had to surrender.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 402px;"> +<a name="p364" id="p364"></a> +<img src="images/p364.jpg" width="402" height="600" alt="RAGLAN CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RAGLAN CASTLE.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>TINTERN ABBEY AND CHEPSTOW CASTLE.</h3> + +<p>The Wye at Monmouth also receives the Trothy River, and the confluence +of the three valleys makes a comparatively open basin, which, however, +again<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> narrows into another romantic glen a short distance below the +town. Wild woods border the steep hills, and the Wye flows through the +western border of the Forest of Dean, an occasional village attesting +the mineral wealth by its blackened chimneys. Here, below Redbrook, was +the home of Admiral Rooke, who captured Gibraltar in 1704, and farther +down are the ruins of the castle of St. Briard, built in the days of +Henry I. to check Welsh forays. Here lived the lord warden of the Forest +of Dean, and for three centuries every Whit-Sunday they held the annual +"scramble" in the church. It appears that a tax of one penny was levied +on every person who pastured his cattle on the common, and the amount +thus raised was expended for bread and cheese. The church was crowded, +and the clerk standing in the gallery threw out the edibles to the +struggling congregation below. The railway closely hugs the +swiftly-flowing river in its steep and narrow glen as we pass Offa's +Dyke and Chair and the Moravian village of Brockweir. Here the line of +fortifications crossed the valley which the king of Mercia constructed +to protect his dominions. The valley then slightly expands, and the +green sward is dotted by the houses of the long and scattered village of +Tintern Parva. The river sharply bends, and in the glen on the western +side stand the ruins of the far-famed Tintern Abbey in the green meadows +at the brink of the Wye. The spot is well chosen, for nowhere along this +celebrated river has Nature indicated a better place for quiet, heavenly +meditation not un-mixed with earthly comforts.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p365" id="p365"></a> +<img src="images/p365.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="TINTERN ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TINTERN ABBEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Walter de Clare founded Tintern Abbey in 1131 for the Cistercian monks, +and dedicated it to St. Mary. It was built upon an ancient battlefield +where a Christian prince of Glamorgan had been slain by the heathen, but +of the buildings erected by De Clare none now exist, the present remains +being of later date, and the abbey church that is now in ruin was +erected by Roger Bigod, Duke of Norfolk. It is a magnificent relic of +the Decorated period. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> vaulted roof and central tower are gone, but +the arches which supported the latter remain. The row of columns on the +northern side of the nave have fallen, with the clerestory above them, +but the remainder of the structure has suffered little damage. The +western front, with its noble window and exquisite tracery, is very +fine. Ivy and ferns overrun the walls and form a coping, while green +sward has replaced the pavement, so that it would be difficult to +imagine a more enchanting ruin, and as such Tintern is renowned the +world over. Lord Houghton has written:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The men who called their passion piety,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And wrecked this noble argosy of faith,—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They little thought how beauteous could be death,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How fair the face of time's aye-deepening sea,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor arms that desolate, nor years that flee,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nor hearts that fail, can utterly deflower</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This grassy floor of sacramental power</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where we now stand communicants."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Tintern Abbey is two hundred and twenty-eight feet long. It had no +triforium, and the clerestory windows are rather large. The great east +window was even more elaborate than the western, but all of it has +fallen excepting the central mullion and the stronger portion of the +tracery which branches out on either side from it. There yet remain in +the building a few tiles with heraldic emblems, some broken monuments, +and some heaps of choice carvings, shattered as they fell, but +afterwards collected and piled against the walls. The Duke of Beaufort, +to whose estate it belongs, has done everything possible to arrest +decay, and all is kept in perfect order. A door leads out of the +southern transept to a few fragments of buildings in the fields on that +side, but most of the convent was on the northern side, where its ruins +surround a grass-grown quadrangle. A cloister once ran around it; on the +eastern side is the chapter-house, with the dormitory above, and on the +western side the remains of the abbot's lodgings and the guest-chambers +have been converted into cottages. The refectory and guest-hall are to +the northward, with ruins of the octagonal columns that supported the +roof. Such is this magnificent relic of the Cistercians, and yet it is +but one of seventy-six abbeys that they possessed before Henry VIII. +dissolved them. From the high-road down the valley of the Wye, which +skirts the green meadows along its southern face, is the best view of +the abbey, and the ruddy gray stone ruins, with the grassy fields and +the background of wooded hills beyond the broad river, make up a picture +that cannot easily be forgotten. Yet Tintern is most beautiful of all +when the full moon rising over the eastern hills pours a flood of light +through the broken east window to the place where once stood the high +altar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span></p> + +<p>The valley of the Wye again broadens, and the river flows in graceful +curves through the meadows, guarded on either hand by cliffs and woods. +The river is here a tidal-stream, having a rise of twelve feet, so that +it is now a strong current, flowing full and swift between grassy banks, +and anon is a shrunken creek, fringed by broad borders of mud. The +railway on the eastern bank runs over the meadows and through occasional +tunnels in the spurs of the cliffs. The high-road climbs the hill on the +western bank, known as the Wynecliff, from the top of which there is a +grand view over the valley and to the southward towards and beyond +Chepstow. This cliff rises nine hundred feet above the river, and is the +great monarch of a realm of crags that poke up their heads in all +directions. Across the Wye, on a tongue of land projecting into the +stream, Sir John Wyntour in the Civil War, with one hundred and eighty +Royalists, hastily built a fort to command the river. Before their +intrenchments were complete the enemy in superior force attacked and +completely routed them; but twenty escaped, and Wyntour, cutting his way +through the assailants' lines, took refuge in the beetling crags behind +known as the Tidenham Rocks. The cavalry pursued him, when he forced his +horse down a part somewhat less precipitous than the rest, reached the +bank in safety, and escaped by swimming his horse over the river. The +precipice is still known as Wyntour's Leap. Below, the Wye flows through +Chepstow, with iron bridges spanning it to carry the road and railway +across. The main part of the town on the western part is built upon a +slope that in places descends somewhat rapidly to the river. Parts of +the old walls are still preserved, strengthened at intervals by round +towers. Chepstow has its ruined church, once a priory, within which +Henry Marten the regicide was buried after twenty years' imprisonment in +the castle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p368" id="p368"></a> +<img src="images/p368.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="CHEPSTOW CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHEPSTOW CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The great point of interest is Chepstow Castle, built here to command +the Wye, and standing in a fine situation on the edge of the river in a +naturally fortified position. Upon the land-side deep trenches and +outworks protect it, while a grassy meadow intervenes between its +gateway and the Wye, that here makes a sharp curve. To get the castle in +between the crags and the river, it was constructed upon a long and +narrow plan, and is divided into four courts. The main entrance on the +eastern side is through a ponderous gateway flanked by solid towers and +with curiously-constructed ancient wooden doors. Entering the court, +there is a massive tower on the left hand with an exterior staircase +turret, while on the right the custodian lives in a group of +comparatively modern buildings, beneath which is a vaulted chamber +communicating with the river. Within this tower, whose walls are of +great thickness, Henry Marten was imprisoned. He was one of the court +that tried King Charles, and his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> signature is upon the king's +death-warrant. He was a spendthrift, and afterwards had a quarrel with +Cromwell, who denounced him as an unbeliever, and even as a buffoon. +When Charles II. made the proclamation of amnesty, Marten surrendered, +but he was tried and condemned to death. He plead that he came in under +the proffer of mercy, and the sentence was commuted to a life +imprisonment; and after a short confinement in the Tower of London he +was removed to Chepstow, where he died twenty years later, in 1680. +Passing into the smaller second court, for the rocks contract it, there +is a strong tower protecting its entrance, and at the upper end are the +ruins of the great hall, relics of the fourteenth century. Two or three +windows, a door, and part of an arcade remain, but roof and floor are +gone. A still smaller court lies beyond, at the upper end of which is a +gateway defended by a moat, beyond which is the western gate and court +of the castle, so that this last enclosure forms a kind of barbican. +Chepstow was elaborately defended, and its only vulnerable points were +from the meadows on the east and the higher ground to the west; but +before the days of artillery it was regarded as impregnable, and +excellently performed its duty as a check upon the Welsh. Fitzosbern, +Earl of Hereford, built the older parts in the eleventh century, but the +most of Chepstow dates from that great epoch of castle-building on the +Welsh border, the reign of Edward I. We are told that the second +Fitzosbern was attainted and his estates forfeited, but that the king +one Easter graciously sent to him in prison his royal robes. The earl so +disdained the favor that he burned them, which made the king so angry +that he said, "Certainly this is a very proud man who hath thus abused +me, but, by the brightness of God, he shall never come out of prison so +long as I live."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> Whereupon, says Dugdale, who tells the tale, he +remained a prisoner until he died. Chepstow was then bestowed upon the +De Clares, who founded Tintern Abbey, and it afterwards passed by +marriage to the Bigod family. Chepstow in the Civil War was held for the +king, and surrendered to the Parliamentary troops. Soon afterwards it +was surprised at the western gate and retaken. Cromwell then besieged +it, but, the siege proving protracted, he left Colonel Ewer in charge. +The Royalist garrison of about one hundred and sixty men were reduced to +great extremity and tried to escape by a boat, but in this they were +disappointed, as one of the besiegers, watching his opportunity, swam +across the Wye with a knife in his teeth and cut the boat adrift. Then +the castle was assaulted and taken, and the commander and most of the +garrison slain. Parliament gave it to Cromwell, but after the +Restoration it was returned to the heirs of the Marquis of Worcester, +its owner, and it still belongs to his descendant, the Duke of Beaufort. +The neighborhood of Chepstow has many pleasant villas in beautiful +sites, and the broadening Wye flows a short distance beyond through the +meadow-land, and then debouches into the estuary of the Severn.</p> + + + +<h3>THE GOLDEN VALLEY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<a name="p370" id="p370"></a> +<img src="images/p370.jpg" width="417" height="600" alt="PONTRILAS COURT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PONTRILAS COURT.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<a name="p371" id="p371"></a> +<img src="images/p371.jpg" width="414" height="600" alt="THE SCYRRID VAWR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SCYRRID VAWR.</span> +</div> + +<p>Still journeying westward beyond the beautiful valley of the Wye, we +will ascend its tributary, the Monnow, to its sources in the Black +Mountains on the borders of Wales. We skirted along the northern side of +these mountains with the Wye, while the Monnow takes us fairly into +them. The little river Dore is one of the head-waters of the Monnow, and +it flows through the picturesque region known as the Golden Valley, just +on the edge of Brecon, where the trout-fishing is as attractive as the +scenery. All its streams rise upon the flanks of the Black Mountains, +and the village of Pontrilas is its railway-station at the entrance to +the valley. This village is devoted to the manufacture of naphtha, for +which purpose mules bring wood from the neighboring forests, and it was +once honored with the presence of a hotel. This was its principal +mansion, Pontrilas Court, but it has long since been converted into a +private residence. This court is a characteristic Elizabethan mansion, +standing in a beautiful garden almost smothered in foliage and running +vines. About a mile up the valley is the pretty village of Ewias Harold, +with its church on one sloping bank of the little river and its castle +on the other. Within the church alongside the chancel there is a +recumbent female figure holding a casket in its hands. The tomb upon +which it is placed was some time ago opened, but nothing was found +within excepting a case containing a human heart. The monument probably +commemorates an unknown benefactress<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> whose corpse lies elsewhere, but +who ordered her heart sent to the spot she loved best. The castle, +standing on an eminence, was once a strong fortress, and tradition says +it was built by Harold before he was king, but it does not occupy a +prominent place in history. Ascending a hill to the northward, a view is +obtained over the valleys of the three picturesque streams—the Dore, +Dulas, and Monnow—that afterwards unite their waters; and, proceeding +up the Dore, we come to the village of Abbey Dore, with the roofless +ruins of its abbey, a part of which is utilized for the parish church, +though scarcely anything is now left beyond fragments of the conventual +buildings. This was a Cistercian monastery founded by Robert of Ewias in +the reign of Henry I. We are now in the heart of the Golden Valley, +which seems to be excavated out of a plateau with long, terrace-like +hills bounding it on either hand, their lower parts rich in verdure, +while their summits are dark and generally bare. Every available part of +the lower surface is thoroughly cultivated, its hedgerows and copses +giving variety to the scene. As we move up the valley the Scyrrid Vawr +raises its notched and pointed summit like a peak dropped down upon the +lowlands. This mountain, nearly fifteen hundred feet high, whose name +means the "Great Fissure," is severed into an upper and lower summit by +a deep cleft due to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> landslip. It is also known as the Holy Mountain, +and in its day has been the goal of many pilgrims. St. Michael, the +guardian of the hills, has a chapel there, where crowds resorted on the +eve of his festival. It used to be the custom for the Welsh farmers to +send for sackloads of earth out of the cleft in this Holy Mountain, +which they sprinkled over their houses and farm-buildings to avoid evil. +They were also especially careful to strew portions over the coffins and +graves of the dead. At the village of Wormridge, where some members of +the Clive family are buried, there is a grand old elm on the +village-green around which the people used to assemble for wrestling and +for the performance of other rural amusements. At the base of this tree +stood the stocks, that dungeon "all of wood" to which it is said there +was</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"——neither iron bar nor gate,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Portcullis, chain, nor bolt, nor grate,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And yet men durance there abide</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In dungeon scarce three inches wide."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>This famous valley also contains the pretty church and scanty ruins of +the castle of Kilpeck; also the church of St. Peter at Rowlstone, where +the ornamental representations of cocks and apostolic figures all have +their heads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> downward, in memory of the position in which St. Peter was +crucified. Here also, on the edge of the Black Mountains, is Oldcastle, +whose ruins recall its owner, Sir John "of that ilk," the martyr who was +sentenced in 1417 to be taken from the Tower of London to St. Giles' +gallows, there to be hanged, and burned while hanging, as "a most +pernicious, detestable heretic." At Longtown, the residence of the +Lacies, there are remains of the walls and circular keep of their strong +Border fortress. Kentchurch, on the slope of Garway Hill, is a seat of +the Earl of Scudamore, where anciently lived John of Kent, a poet and +mathematician, of whom Symonds tells us in his <i>Records of the Rocks</i> +that "he sold his soul to the devil, and constructed the bridge over the +Monnow in a single night." The ruined castle of Grosmont is about a mile +distant: it was often besieged by the Welsh, and we are told that on one +occasion "the king came with a great army to raise the siege, whereof, +as soon as the Welshmen had understanding, they saved their lives by +their legges." It was here that Henry of Monmouth defeated the Welsh, +capturing Glendower's son Griffith.</p> + + + +<h3>ABERGAVENNY AND LLANTHONY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="p373" id="p373"></a> +<img src="images/p373.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="LLANTHONY PRIORY, LOOKING DOWN THE NAVE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LLANTHONY PRIORY, LOOKING DOWN THE NAVE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Rounding the southern extremity of the Black Mountains, and proceeding +farther westward, we enter another beautiful region, the Vale of Usk, a +stream that flows southward into the estuary of the Severn. Here is +Abergavenny, with its ancient castle guarding the entrance to the upper +valley, and with mountains on every side. Here rises, just north of the +town, the Sugar Loaf, one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two feet +high, and on the left hand the mass of old red sandstone known as the +Blorenge, one thousand seven hundred and twenty feet high. A few miles +up the tributary vale of Ewias, which discloses glorious scenery, are +the ruins of Llanthony Priory. The valley is a deep winding glen cut out +by the Hodeni between the great cliffs of the Black Mountains on the one +side and the ranges around the Sugar Loaf on the other. In places the +cliffs are precipitous, but, generally, the lower slopes furnish +pasture-land and occasional woods, while the upper parts are covered +with bracken fern, with a few trees and copses. The priory stands on a +gentle slope at the base of the Black Mountains, elevated a short +distance above the stream. Its original name was Llanhodeni, or "the +Place by the Hodeni." It was founded by two hermits in the beginning of +the twelfth century—William de Lacy, a Norman knight, and Ernisius, +chaplain to Maud, wife of Henry I. They first built a small chapel +dedicated to St. David; gifts flowed in, and they were soon enabled to +construct a grand religious house, occupied by Augustinian monks, of +whom Ernisius became the first prior. Predatory raids<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> by the Welsh, +however, harassed the monks, and after submitting for some time to these +annoyances they migrated to Gloucester, and founded another priory +alongside the Severn. Later, however, they returned to the old place and +kept up both establishments, but in the reign of Edward IV. the older +was merged into the newer "because of the turbulence of the neighboring +people and the irregular lives of its inmates." The ruins of Llanthony +are supposed to date from about 1200, and are of a marked though simple +beauty. The convent buildings are almost all gone, excepting fragments +of the cellars and chapter-house. The prior's residence has become a +farm-house, and where the monks sat in solemn conclave is now its +outbuildings. The towers are used, one for chambers and the other for a +dairy. The main part of the church is, however, carefully preserved with +a green turf floor, and the western towers up to the level of the walls +of the nave are still quite perfect, though the west window is gone and +parts of the adjacent walls have perished. The north transept has +fallen, but the southern transept is still in fair condition, lighted at +the end by a pair of round-headed windows, with a circular one above; a +semicircular arch on its eastern side opens into a chapel. The choir is +also well preserved. These ruins exhibit semicircular with pointed +arches in indiscriminate combination, and during the present century +decay has caused much of them to fall. It was to Llanthony that Walter +Savage Landor removed in 1809, selling much of his family estates in +order to buy it. He projected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span> grand improvements, including the +restoration of the priory, the construction of roads and bridges, and +the cultivation of extensive tracts on the mountainside, so that it +became of note among literary men as the home of one of the most +original of their guild. His biographer tells us that he imported sheep +from Segovia, and applied to Southey and other friends to furnish him +tenants who would introduce improved agricultural methods. The +inhabitants of this remote region were morose and impoverished, and he +wished to reclaim them. To clothe the bare spots on the flanks of the +mountains, he bought two thousand cones of the cedars of Lebanon, each +calculated to produce a hundred seeds, and he often exulted "in the +thought of the million cedar trees which he would thus leave for shelter +and the delight of posterity." But he met the fate of many projectors. +After four years' struggle he became disgusted with Llanthony and its +people: he was in a quarrel with almost everybody, and his genius for +punctiliousness had turned nearly the whole neighborhood against him. He +had sunk his capital in the estate and its improvements, and becoming +embarrassed, it was taken out of his hands and vested in trustees. His +half-built house was pulled down, and the disgusted Landor left England +for the Continent. At Llanthony he composed Latin verses and English +tragedy, but his best literary labor was performed after he left there. +A few miles farther up the valley is Capel-y-Ffyn, where Father Ignatius +within a few years has erected his Anglican monastery. He was Rev. Mr. +Lyne, and came from Norwich, where he was in frequent collision with the +bishop. After much pother and notoriety he took his Protestant monastic +settlement to this nook in the heart of the Black Mountains, where he +and his monks perform their orisons in peace.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;"> +<a name="p374" id="p374"></a> +<img src="images/p374.jpg" width="369" height="600" alt="LLANTHONY—THE SOUTH TRANSEPT, FROM THE NAVE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LLANTHONY—THE SOUTH TRANSEPT, FROM THE NAVE.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>NEWPORT, CARDIFF, AND LLANDAFF.</h3> + +<p>We now follow down the Usk, and at its mouth upon the Severn estuary is +Newport, in Monmouthshire, where there are large docks and a +considerable trade. The ruins of Newport Castle stand on the western +bank of the river. In the suburbs is Caerleon, where the Romans long had +the garrison-post of the second Augustan legion. The museum here is +filled with Roman remains, and the amphitheatre, called "King Arthur's +Round Table," is alongside. Proceeding westward about twelve miles along +the shore of the Severn estuary, we come to Penarth Roads in +Glamorganshire, sheltered under a bold headland at the mouths of the Ely +and the Taff, and the flourishing Welsh seaport of Cardiff on the banks +of the latter stream. This is the outport of the Welsh coal and iron +region, and the Marquis of Bute, who is a large landowner here, has done +much to develop its enormous trade, which goes to all parts of the +world. Its name is derived from Caer Taff, the fortress on the river +Taff, and in early times the Welsh established a castle there, but the +present one was of later construction, having been built by Robert +Fitzhamon, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Glamorgan. It was afterwards +strongly fortified, and here the unfortunate Robert, son of William the +Conqueror, was imprisoned for twenty-eight years by his brother Henry +I., his eyes being put out for his greater security. The tower where he +was confined still stands alongside the entrance gateway, and during his +long captivity we are told that he soothed his weariness by becoming a +poet. The ancient keep remains standing on its circular mound, but the +castle has been restored and modernized by the Marquis of Bute, who +occasionally resides there, and has given it a fine western front +flanked by a massive octagonal tower. The moat is filled up, and, with +the acclivities of the ramparts, is made a public walk and garden. In +the valley of the Taff, a short distance from Cardiff, is the famous +"Rocking Stone," standing on the western brink of a hill called +Coed-pen-maen, or the "Wood of the Stone Summit." It was anciently a +Druids' altar, and with a surface of about one hundred square feet is +only two to three feet thick, so that it contains about two hundred and +fifty cubic feet of stone. It is the rough argillaceous sandstone that +accompanies the coal-measures in this part of Wales, and a moderate +force gives it quite a rocking motion, which can be easily continued +with one hand. It stands nearly in equilibrium upon a pivotal rock +beneath. Two miles from Cardiff is the ancient and straggling village of +Llandaff, which was the seat of the earliest Christian bishopric in +Wales, having been founded in the fourth century. Its cathedral, for a +long time dilapidated, has within a few years been thoroughly restored. +All the valleys<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> in the hilly region tributary to Cardiff are full of +coal and iron, the mining and smelting of which have made enormous +fortunes for their owners and developed a vast industry there within the +present century. About nine miles north of Cardiff is Caerphilly Castle, +which has the most remarkable leaning tower in Britain, it being more +inclined from the perpendicular than any other that is known. It is +about eighty feet high, and leans over a distance of eleven feet. It +rests only on a part of its southern side, and maintains its position +chiefly through the strength of the cement. This castle was built by the +De Clares in the reign of Henry III., and large additions were made to +it by Hugh Despenser, who garrisoned it for Edward II. in order to check +the Welsh. It is a large concentric castle, covering about thirty acres, +having three distinct wards, seven gate-houses, and thirty portcullises. +It was here that Edward II. and his favorites, the Despensers, were +besieged by the queen in 1326. The defence was well conducted, and the +besiegers were greatly annoyed by melted metal thrown down on them from +the walls, which was heated in furnaces still remaining at the foot of +the tower. They made a desperate assault, which was partially +successful, though it ultimately failed; and we are told that while in +the castle they let the red-hot metal run out of the furnaces, and, +throwing water on it from the moat, caused an explosion which tore the +tower from its foundations and left it in its present condition. The +fissures made by the explosion are still visible, and it has stood thus +for over five centuries. The castle ultimately surrendered, the king +having previously escaped. The Despensers were beheaded, and their +castle never regained its ancient splendor.</p> + + + +<h3>SWANSEA.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p377" id="p377"></a> +<img src="images/p377.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="NORTH DOCK, SWANSEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORTH DOCK, SWANSEA.</span> +</div> + +<p>Journeying westward from Cardiff along the coast of Glamorganshire, upon +the Bristol Channel, we come to the Welsh Bay of Naples, where the +chimneys replace the volcano of Vesuvius as smoke-producers. This is the +Bay of Swansea, a very fine one, extending for several miles in a grand +curve from Porthcawl headland on the eastern verge around to the +Mumbles, where a bold limestone cliff runs far out into the sea and +forms a natural breakwater. Within this magnificent bay, with its wooded +and villa-lined shores, there is a spot that discloses the bare brown +hills guarding the entrance to the valley of the river Tawe, up which +the houses of Swansea climb, with a dense cloud of smoke overhanging +them that is evolved from the smelting-furnaces and collieries behind +the town. Forests of masts appear where the smoke permits them to be +visible, and then to the right hand another gap and overhanging +smoke-cloud marks the valley of the Neath. The ancient Britons called +the place Aber-tawe, from the river, and there are various derivations +of the present<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> name. Some say it came from flocks of swans appearing in +the bay, and others from the porpoises or sea-swine, so that the reader +may take his choice of Swan-sea or Swine-sea. In the twelfth century it +was known as Sweynsey, and perhaps the best authority says the name came +from Sweyne, a Scandinavian who frequented that coast with his ships. +When the Normans invaded Glamorgan, Henry Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, +captured Swansea, and in the twelfth century built a castle there. King +John gave it a charter, and it became a town of some importance, as he +granted it extensive trading-privileges. In another charter, given by +the lord of the manor in 1305, the first allusion is made to Welsh coal, +for the people among other privileges are allowed to dig "pit-coal in +Ballywasta." Thus began the industry that has become the mainstay of +prosperity in South Wales. Warwick's Castle at Swansea has entirely +disappeared, the present ruins being those of a castle afterwards built +by Henry de Gower, who became Bishop of St. David's. What is left of it +is almost hidden by modern buildings. It has the remains of a +curtain-wall and two towers, the larger of which has an arcade beneath<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span> +the battlement—an unusual but pleasing feature. Lewellyn harassed the +town and castle, but it had not much history until the Civil War, when +there was a little fighting for its possession. A Parliamentary ship +appeared in the bay and demanded the surrender of the town, which was +refused; but in the following year the Parliamentary troops captured it. +Subsequently the castle changed hands several times—the guide-book +states "rather politically than gloriously." Cromwell ultimately took +possession in 1648, resided at Swansea for some time as lord of the +manor, and was very liberal to the town. The castle was dismantled and +partly destroyed, the keep being used as a jail. Swansea, like all the +cities in the Welsh coal and metal region, has grown greatly during the +present century. Walter Savage Landor lived here for a while, just when +the copper-works were beginning to appear in the valley of the Tawe. +Their smoke defiled the landscape, and he exclaimed, "Would to God there +was no trade upon earth!" He preferred Swansea Bay above the gulf of +Salerno or of Naples, and wrote, "Give me Swansea for scenery and +climate! If ever it should be my fortune to return to England, I would +pass the remainder of my days in the neighborhood of Swansea, between +that place and the Mumbles."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p378" id="p378"></a> +<img src="images/p378.jpg" width="600" height="521" alt="SWANSEA CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SWANSEA CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Swansea's earliest dock was made by walling a tidal inlet called Port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span> +Tennant, and is still used. Its former great dock was the North Dock, +constructed in the old bed of the Tawe, a newer and more direct channel +being made for the river. It has two recently-constructed and larger +docks. Up the valley of the Tawe the town spreads several miles, and +here are the enormous copper-works and smelting-furnaces which make a +reproduction of the infernal regions, defile the air, but fill the +purses of the townsfolk. Swansea is the greatest copper-smelting dépôt +in the world, drawing its ores from all parts of the globe. There had +been copper-works on the Neath three centuries ago, but the first upon +the Tawe were established in 1745. From them have grown the fame and +wealth of the Cornish family of the Vivians, who have been +copper-smelters for three generations at Swansea, and in front of the +town-hall stands the statue of the "Copper King," the late John Henry +Vivian, who represented Swansea in Parliament. There are also iron, +zinc, lead, and tin-plate works, making this a great metallurgical +centre, while within forty miles there are over five hundred collieries, +some existing at the very doors of the smelting-works. It is cheap fuel +that has made the fortune of Swansea.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p379" id="p379"></a> +<img src="images/p379.jpg" width="600" height="445" alt="THE MUMBLES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MUMBLES.</span> +</div> + +<p>The bold promontory of the Mumbles, which bounds Swansea Bay to the +westward, has become a popular watering-place, into which it has +gradually developed from the fishing-village nestling under Oystermouth +Castle. The bay was once a great producer of oysters, and dredging for +them was the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> chief industry of the inhabitants. The remains of the +castle stand upon a knoll overlooking the sea, and with higher hills +behind. The Duke of Beaufort, to whom it belongs, keeps the ruins +carefully protected, and they are in rather good preservation. The plan +is polygonal, approaching a triangle, with its apex towards the sea, +where was the only entrance, a gateway guarded by two round towers, of +which only the inner face now remains. The interior court is small, with +the keep at the north-eastern angle, having a chapel at the top. There +are some other apartments with vaulted chambers underground. Henry de +Bellamont is believed to have built this fortress at about the time of +the construction of Swansea Castle, but it has not contributed much to +history, though now a picturesque ruin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 539px;"> +<a name="p380" id="p380"></a> +<img src="images/p380.jpg" width="539" height="550" alt="OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>On the eastern side of Swansea Bay enters the Vale of Neath, where is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span> +also a manufacturing town of rapid growth, while within the Vale is +beautiful scenery. Neath is of great antiquity, having been the Nidum of +the days of Antoninus. At the Crumlyn Bog, where white lilies blossom on +the site of an ancient lake, legend says is entombed a primitive city, +in proof whereof strains of unearthly music may be occasionally heard +issuing from beneath the waters. In the valley on the western bank of +the river are the extensive ruins of Neath Abbey, said once to have been +the fairest in all Wales. This religious house was founded by Richard de +Granville in the twelfth century, but its present buildings are of later +date. Within its walls Edward II. took refuge when he escaped from +Caerphilly, for it had the privilege of sanctuary; but after leaving +Neath a faithless monk betrayed him, and he was put to death most +cruelly at Berkeley Castle. Only a ruined gateway remains of Neath +Castle, blackened by the smoke of smelting-works.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p381" id="p381"></a> +<img src="images/p381.jpg" width="600" height="392" alt="NEATH ABBEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NEATH ABBEY.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>CAERMARTHEN AND PEMBROKE.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding westward along the coast of the jutting peninsula formed by +South Wales, another grand bay indents the shore, and on the bold banks +of the Towy is Caermarthen, which gives the bay its name. Here there was +a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span> Roman station, on the site of which the castle was built, but by whom +is not accurately known. The Parliamentarians captured and dismantled +it, and it has since fallen into almost complete decay, though part was +occupied as a jail till the last century. In Caermarthen Church, Richard +Steele the essayist is buried, while from the parade is a beautiful view +up the Vale of Towy towards Merlin's Hill and Abergwili, which was the +home of that renowned sage. Around the sweeping shores of Caermarthen +Bay, about fifteen miles to the westward, is Tenby Castle, the town, now +a watering-place, being singularly situated on the eastern and southern +sides of a narrow rocky peninsula entirely surrounded by the sea, +excepting to the northward. This was the Welsh "Precipice of Fishes," +and its castle was strongly fortified. It stood a five days' siege from +Cromwell, and its shattered ruins, with the keep on the summit of the +hill, show a strong fortress. From the top there is a magnificent view +of the neighboring shores and far across the sea to the lofty coasts of +Devonshire. Manorbeer Castle, belonging to Lord Milford, is near Tenby, +and is considered the best structure of its class in Wales. It is the +carefully-preserved home of an old Norman baron, with its church, mill, +dove-house, pond, park, and grove, and "the houses of his vassals at +such distance as to be within call." The buildings have stone roofs, +most of which are perfect, and it has been tenantless, yet carefully +preserved, since the Middle Ages. Parts of it have stood for six +centuries. In the upper portion of the Vale of Towy is the Golden Grove, +a seat of the Earl of Cawdor, a modern Elizabethan structure. Here lived +Jeremy Taylor, having taken refuge there in the Civil War, and he here +wrote some of his greatest works.</p> + +<p>Beyond Caermarthenshire is Pembrokeshire, forming the western extremity +of the Welsh peninsula. The river Cleddan, flowing south-westward, +broadens at its mouth into the estuary known as Milford Haven. It +receives a western branch, on the side of which is the county-town, +Haverfordwest, placed on a hill where the De Clares founded a castle, of +which little now remains but the keep, used (as so many of them now are) +as the county-jail. Cromwell demolished this castle after it fell into +his hands. The great promontory of St. David's Head juts out into the +sea sixteen miles to the westward. The Cleddan flows down between the +towns of Pembroke and Milford. The ruins of Pembroke Castle upon a high +rock disclose an enormous circular keep, seventy-five feet high and one +hundred and sixty-three feet in circumference. It was begun in the +eleventh century, and was the birthplace of Henry VII. in 1456. Here +Cromwell was repulsed in 1648, but the fortress was secured for the +Parliament after six weeks' siege. The garrison were reduced to great +straits, but were only subdued by the skilful use of artillery in +battering down the stairway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span> leading to the well where they got their +water: the spring that supplied them is still there. Pembroke has +extensive trade, and its shipbuilding dockyard covers eighty acres. +Opposite this dockyard is Milford, the harbor being a mile and a half +wide. The railway from London runs down to the pier, and passengers are +transferred to steamers for Ireland, this being the terminus of the +Great Western Railway route, two hundred and eighty-five miles from the +metropolis. Milford Haven, at which we close this descriptive journey, +stretches for ten miles inland from the sea, varying from one to two +miles in breadth, affords ample anchorage, and is strongly fortified. +The ancient Pictou Castle guards the junction of the two branches of the +Cleddan above Milford, while Carew Castle stands on a creek entering +Milford Haven on the south-eastern shore, and is an august though ruined +relic of the baronial splendors of the Middle Ages. It well represents +the condition of most of the seacoast castles in this part of Wales, of +one of which Dyer has written.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"His sides are clothed with waving wood,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And ancient towers crown his brow.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That cast an awful look below;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whose rugged sides the ivy creeps,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And with her arms from falling keeps.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis now the raven's bleak abode;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis now th' apartment of the toad;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And there the fox securely feeds.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And there the poisonous adder breeds,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Concealed in ruins, moss, and weeds;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">While ever and anon there fall</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huge heaps of hoary, mouldered wall.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet time has seen, that lifts the low</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And level lays the lofty brow,—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Has seen this broken pile complete,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Big with the vanity of state;—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But transient is the smile of fate."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII.</h2> + +<h3>LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Virginia Water—Sunninghill—Ascot—Wokingham—Bearwood—The London +<i>Times</i>—White Horse Hill—Box Tunnel—Salisbury—Salisbury +Plain—Old Sarum—Stonehenge—Amesbury—Wilton House—The Earls of +Pembroke—Carpet-making—Bath—William +Beckford—Fonthill—Bristol—William +Canynge—Chatterton—Clifton—Brandon Hill—Wells—The +Mendips—Jocelyn—Beckington—Ralph of Shrewsbury—Thomas Ken—The +Cheddar Cliffs—The Wookey Hole—The Black Down—The Isle of +Avelon-Glastonbury—Weary-all Hill—Sedgemoor—The Isle of +Athelney—Bridgewater—Oldmixon—Monmouth's Rebellion—Weston +Zoyland—King Alfred—Sherborne—Sir Walter Raleigh—The Coast of +Dorset—Poole—Wareham—Isle of Purbeck—Corfe Castle—The +Foreland—Swanage—St. Aldhelm's Head—Weymouth—Portland Isle and +Bill—The Channel Islands—Jersey—Corbière Promontory—Mount +Orgueil—Alderney—Guernsey—Castle Cornet—The Southern Coast of +Devon—Abbotsbury—Lyme +Regis—Axminster—Sidmouth—Exmouth—Exeter—William, Prince of +Orange—Exeter Cathedral—Bishop +Trelawney—Dawlish—Teignmouth—Hope's Nose—Babbicombe Bay—Anstis +Cove—Torbay—Torquay—Brixham—Dartmoor—The River +Dart—Totnes—Berry Pomeroy Castle—Dartmouth—The River Plym—The +Dewerstone—Plympton Priory—Sir Joshua Reynolds—Catwater +Haven—Plymouth—Stonehouse—Devonport—Eddystone +Lighthouse—Tavistock Abbey—Buckland Abbey—Lydford Castle—The +Northern Coast of Devon—Exmoor—Minehead—Dunster—Dunkery +Beacon—Porlock Bay—The River Lyn—Oare—Lorna Doone—Jan +Ridd—Lynton—Lynmouth—Castle Rock—The Devil's Cheese-Ring—Combe +Martin—Ilfracombe—Morte +Point—Morthoe—Barnstaple—Bideford—Clovelly—Lundy +Island—Cornwall—Tintagel—Launceston—Liskeard—Fowey—Lizard +Peninsula—Falmouth—Pendennis Castle—Helston—Mullyon +Cove—Smuggling—Kynance Cove—The Post-Office—Old Lizard +Head—Polpeor—St. Michael's Mount—Penzance—Pilchard +Fishery—Penwith—Land's End.</p></div> + + + +<h3>ASCOT AND BEARWOOD.</h3> + +<p>Leaving London by the South-western Railway, and skirting along the edge +of Windsor Park, we pass Virginia Water, the largest artificial lake in +England. Upon its bosom float miniature frigates, and its banks are +bordered by a Chinese fishing temple, and a colonnade which was brought +from the African coast near Tunis. Here also are a hermitage overlooking +the lake, and the triangular turreted building known as the Belvedere, +where a battery of guns is kept that was used in the wars of the last +century. Not far beyond is Sunninghill, near which was Pope's early +home, and in the garden of the vicarage are three trees planted by +Burke, Chesterfield, and Bolingbroke. Farther westward is the famous +Ascot race-course on Ascot Heath, where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> races are run in June upon +a circular course of about two miles, the neighborhood containing many +handsome villas. Still journeying westward, the route passes Wokingham, +where Gay, Swift, Pope, and Arbuthnot were on one occasion detained at +the Rose Inn in wet weather, and whiled away the time by composing the +song of "Molly Mog."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p385" id="p385"></a> +<img src="images/p385.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="BEARWOOD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BEARWOOD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Just beyond Wokingham is the fine estate of Bearwood, the seat of John +Walter, Esq., the proprietor of the London <i>Times</i>, one of the stately +rural homes of England. Here, in a large and beautiful park which +retains much of its original forest character, and standing upon the +terraced bank of a lovely lake, Bearwood House has within a few years +been entirely rebuilt, its feature being the central picture-gallery +containing a fine collection of paintings, around which clusters a suite +of grand apartments. The estate includes several thousand acres, and in +the many pleasant cottages scattered over it and the homes at Bearwood +village many of the aged and infirm employés of the <i>Times</i> pass their +declining years. The <i>Times</i>, which was founded January 1, 1788, by the +grandfather of the present proprietor, has steadily grown in commanding +influence until it occupies the front rank in English journalism and is +the leading newspaper of the kingdom. Its proprietor has recently +entirely rebuilt its publication-offices in Printing-House Square and on +Queen Victoria Street in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span> London, adapting all the modern appliances of +improved machinery and methods to its publication. It is at Bearwood, +however, that his philanthropic ideas also find a broad field of +usefulness in caring for those who have grown gray in the service of the +<i>Times</i>, and thither every year go the entire corps of employés to enjoy +an annual picnic under the spreading foliage of the park, while no home +in England is more frequented by Americans or extends to kin from across +sea a more generous hospitality.</p> + + + +<h3>KING ALFRED'S WHITE HORSE.</h3> + +<p>In the chalk hills of Berkshire, beyond Reading and north of Hungerford, +there rises an eminence over nine hundred feet high, known as the White +Horse Hill. It is a famous place; upon the summit, covering a dozen +acres, and from which eleven counties can be seen, there is a +magnificent Roman camp, with gates, ditch, and mound as complete as when +the legions left it. To the westward of the hill, and under its shadow, +was the battlefield of Ashdown, where Alfred defeated the Danes and +broke their power in 871. He fought eight other battles against the +Danes that year, but they were mere skirmishes compared with the +decisive victory of Ashdown, and in memory of it he ordered his army to +carve the White Horse on the hillside as the emblem of the standard of +Hengist. It is cut out of the turf, and can be seen to a great distance, +being three hundred and seventy-four feet long. After a spell of bad +weather it gets out of condition, and can only be restored to proper +form by being scoured, this ceremony bringing a large concourse of +people from all the neighboring villages. The festival was held in 1857, +and the old White Horse was then brought back into proper form with much +pomp and great rejoicing. The ancient balladist thus quaintly describes +the festivity on these memorable occasions:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The owld White Harse wants zettin to rights, and the squire hev promised good cheer,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zo we'll gee un a scrape to kip un in zhape, and a'll last for many a year.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A was made a lang, lang time ago, wi a good dale o' labor and pains.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By King Alferd the Great, when he spwiled their consate and caddled<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> thay wosbirds<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a> the Danes.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Bleawin Stwun in days gone by wur King Alferd's bugle harn,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the tharnin tree you med plainly zee as is called King Alferd's tharn.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There'll be backsword play, and climmin the powl, and a race for a peg, and a cheese.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And us thenks as hisn's a dummell<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">[D]</a> zowl as dwont care for zich spwoorts as theze."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Leaving London by the Great Western Railway, and passing beyond +Berkshire, we cross the boundary into Wiltshire, and go through the +longest rail<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span>way-tunnel in England, the noted Box Tunnel, which is a +mile and three-quarters in length and cost over $2,500,000 to construct. +It goes through a ridge of great-oolite, from which the valuable +bath-stone is quarried, and the railway ultimately brings us to the +cathedral city that boasts the tallest church-spire in +England—Salisbury, the county-town of Wiltshire, standing in the valley +formed by the confluence of three rivers, the Avon, Bourne, and Wiley.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> caddled, worried.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> wosbirds, birds of evil omen.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> dummell, stupid.</p></div> + + + +<h3>SALISBURY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p387" id="p387"></a> +<img src="images/p387.jpg" width="500" height="344" alt="SALISBURY CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SALISBURY CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The celebrated cathedral, which in some respects may be considered the +earliest in England, is the chief object at Salisbury, and was founded +by Bishop Poore in 1220. It was the first great church built in the +Early English style, and its spire is among the most imposing Gothic +constructions in existence. The city of Salisbury is unique in having +nothing Roman, Saxon, or Norman in its origin, and in being even without +the remains of a baronial fortress. It is a purely English city, and, +though it was surrounded by walls, they were merely boundaries of the +dominions of the ecclesiastics. The see of Salisbury in 1215 was removed +from Old Sarum to its present location in consequence of the frequent +contests between the clergy and the castellans, and soon afterwards the +construction of the cathedral began. King Henry III. granted the church +a weekly market and an annual fair lasting eight days, and the +symmetrical arrangement of the streets is said to have been caused by +the original laying out of the city in spaces "seven perches each in +length and three in breadth," as the historian tells us. The cathedral +close, which is surrounded by a wall, has four gateways, and the best +view of the cathedral is from the north-eastern side of the close, but a +more distant view—say from a mile away—brings out the proportions of +the universally admired spire to much greater advantage. The chief +cathedral entrance is by the north porch, which is a fine and lofty +structure, lined with a double arcade and having an upper chamber. The +nave is beautiful, though it suffers somewhat in warmth of coloring from +lacking stained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> glass, and the cloisters, which are entered from the +south-western transept, are admirable, being of later date and +exhibiting a more developed style than the remainder of the cathedral. +Their graceful windows and long gray arcades contrast splendidly with +the greensward of the cloister-garth. They include an octagonal +chapter-house, fifty-eight feet in diameter and fifty-two feet high, +which has been restored in memory of a recent bishop at a cost of +$260,000. The restoration has enriched the house with magnificent +sculptures representing Old-Testament history, and the restoration of +the cathedral is also progressing. The adjoining episcopal palace is an +irregular but picturesque pile of buildings, with a gateway tower that +is a prominent feature.</p> + +<p>Salisbury has plenty of old houses, like most English towns, and it also +has a large square market-place, containing the Gothic Poultry Cross, a +most graceful stone structure, and also the council-house of modern +erection, in front of which is a statue of Sidney Herbert. Its ancient +banquet-hall, built four hundred years ago by John Halle, and having a +lofty timber roof and an elaborately-carved oak screen, is now used as +the show-room for a shop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p388" id="p388"></a> +<img src="images/p388.jpg" width="500" height="420" alt="SALISBURY MARKET." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SALISBURY MARKET.</span> +</div> + +<p>To the northward of Salisbury is that region filled with prehistoric +relics known as Salisbury Plain. Here are ancient fortresses, barrows, +and sepulchral mounds, earthworks, dykes, and trenches, roadways of the +Roman and the Briton, and the great British stronghold, guarding the +southern entrance to the plain, which became the Old Sarum of later +times. Until within a century this plain was a solitary and almost +abandoned region, but now there are good roads crossing it and much of +the land is cultivated. It is a great triangular chalk-measure, each +side roughly estimated at twenty miles long. The Bourne, Wiley, and Avon +flow through it to meet near Salisbury, and all the bolder heights +between their valleys are marked by ancient fortifications. Wiltshire is +thus said to be divided between chalk and cheese, for the northern +district<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> beyond the plain is a great dairy region. Let us journey +northward from Salisbury across the plain, and as we enter its southern +border there rises up almost at the edge the conical hill of Old Sarum, +crowned by intrenchments. When they were made is not known, but in 552 +they were a British defence against the Saxons, who captured them after +a bitter fight and overran the plain. Five centuries later William the +Norman reviewed his army here, and after the first Domesday survey +summoned all the landholders of England to the number of sixty thousand, +who here swore fealty to him. The Normans strengthened it with a castle, +and soon a cathedral also rose at Old Sarum, while a town grew around +them. But all have disappeared, though now there can be traced the +outlines of streets and houses and the foundations of the old cathedral. +When the clergy removed to Salisbury it is said they determined the new +site by an arrow shot from the ramparts of Old Sarum, and moving the +cathedral soon attracted the people. Old Sarum for some time remained a +strong fortress with many houses, but the cathedral was taken down in +1331 and its materials used for building the famous spire at Salisbury. +The castle decayed, the town was gradually deserted, and as long ago as +the sixteenth century we are told there was not a single house left +there. And such it is to this day. Climbing the steep face of the hill, +the summit is found fenced by a vast earthen rampart and ditch enclosing +twenty-seven acres with an irregular circle, the height from the bottom +of the ditch to the top of the rampart being over one hundred feet. A +smaller inner rampart as high as the outer one made the central citadel. +Nearly all the stone has long ago been carried off to build Salisbury, +and weeds and brushwood have overrun the remarkable fortress that has +come down to us from such venerable antiquity. Under the English +"rotten-borough" system Old Sarum enjoyed the privilege of sending two +members to Parliament for three centuries after it ceased to be +inhabited. The old tree under which the election was held still exists, +and the elder Pitt, who lived near by, was first sent to Parliament as a +representative of Old Sarum's vacant mounds.</p> + + + +<h3>STONEHENGE.</h3> + +<p>A few miles' farther journey to the northward over the hills and +valleys, and among the sheep that also wander on Salisbury Plain, brings +us to that remarkable relic of earlier ages which is probably the +greatest curiosity in England—Stonehenge. When the gigantic stones were +put there, and what for, no man knows. Many are the unanswered questions +asked about them, for the poet says:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span></p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Thou noblest monument of Albion's isle!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whether by Merlin's aid from Scythia's shore</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To Amber's fatal plain Pendragon bore,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huge frame of giant hands, the mighty pile,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To entomb his Britons slain by Hengist's guile:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Or Druid priests, sprinkled with human gore,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Taught 'mid thy massy maze their mystic lore;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or Danish chiefs, enriched by savage spoil,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To Victory's idol vast, an unhewn shrine,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reared the huge heap; or, in thy hallowed round,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Repose the kings of Brutus' genuine line;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or here those kings in solemn state were crowned;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Studious to trace thy wondrous origin,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We muse on many an ancient tale renowned."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p390" id="p390"></a> +<img src="images/p390.jpg" width="650" height="253" alt="STONEHENGE, FROM THE NORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">STONEHENGE, FROM THE NORTH.</span> +</div> + +<p>Stonehenge is about nine miles north of Salisbury, near the town of +Amesbury, where another ancient camp, known as "The Ramparts," crowns a +wooded hill, around which the Avon flows, the camp enclosing nearly +forty acres. Stonehenge stands in a bleak, bare situation on Salisbury +Plain, and in its original perfection, as nearly as can now be judged, +consisted of two concentric circles and two ellipses of upright stones, +surrounded by a bank and ditch, outside of which is a single upright +stone and traces of a hippodrome. The entrance to the cluster of circles +was from the north-east, and the avenue to it is still traceable by the +banks of earth. The outer circle at Stonehenge originally consisted of +thirty upright stones fixed in the ground at intervals of about three +and a half feet. On the top of them thirty other stones formed a +continuous ring about sixteen feet above the ground. Within this circle, +and leaving a space about nine feet wide between, was another circle of +thirty or forty unhewn stones about four to seven feet high. Within +this, again, was the grandest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> part of the structure—a great ellipse +formed of five triplets of stones or trilithons, each composed of two +uprights and one placed crosswise. Within these was the inner ellipse of +nineteen obelisks surrounding the altar-stone. Such was Stonehenge +originally, but its ruins now appear very differently, and are only a +confused pile of huge stones, for the most part such as are found on the +neighboring plain and known as sarsens (a siliceous sandstone), though +some of the smaller ones may be boulders brought from a distance. The +diameter of the enclosure is three hundred and thirty-six feet. On the +outer circle sixteen of the uprights and six of the surmounting stones +forming the ring remain in their original positions. Two of the inner +trilithons, the highest rising twenty-five feet, remain perfect, and +there are two single uprights, which lean considerably. The flat slab or +altar-stone is lying on the ground. The avenue of approach opens in +front of the inner ellipse and in a line with the altar-stone. In the +avenue, outside the enclosure, is a block sixteen feet high in a leaning +position, and known as the Friar's Heel. The legend tells us that when +the great Enemy of the human race was raising Stonehenge he muttered to +himself that no one would ever know how it was done. A passing friar, +hearing him, exclaimed, "That's more than thee can tell," and then fled. +The Enemy flung this great stone after him, but hit only the friar's +heel. The investigators of Stonehenge say that when standing on the +altar-stone the midsummer sun is seen to rise to the north-east directly +over the "Friar's Heel." The traces of the avenue in which it stands +are, however, soon found to divide into two smaller avenues, one running +south-east and the other north, and the latter is connected beyond with +a long enclosure called the Cursus, and marked by banks of earth +stretching east and west for about a mile and a half: there is nothing +known of its use. The whole country about Stonehenge is dotted with +groups of sepulchral barrows, and at the western end of the Cursus is a +cluster of them more prominent than the others, and known as the "Seven +Burrows." Stonehenge itself inspires with mystery and awe, the blocks +being gray with lichens and worn by centuries of storms. Reference to +them is found in the earliest chronicles of Britain, and countless +legends are told of their origin and history, they usually being traced +to mythical hands. In James I.'s reign Stonehenge was said to be a Roman +temple, dedicated to Cœlus; subsequently, it was attributed to the +Danes, the Phœnicians, the Britons, and the Druids by various +writers. Sir Richard Hoare, who has studied the mystery most closely, +declines all these theories, and says the monument is grand but +"voiceless." Horace Walpole shrewdly observes that whoever examines +Stonehenge attributes it to that class of antiquity of which he is +himself most fond; and thus it remains an insoluble problem to puzzle +the investigator and impress<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> the tourist. Michael Drayton plaintively +and quaintly confesses that no one has yet solved the mystery:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Dull heape, that thus thy head above the rest doest reare,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Precisely yet not know'st who first did place thee there.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ill did those mightie men to trust thee with their storie;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thou hast forgot their names who rear'd thee for their glorie;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For all their wondrous cost, thou that hast serv'd them so,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">What 'tis to trust to tombes by thee we easily know."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<h3>WILTON HOUSE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p392" id="p392"></a> +<img src="images/p392.jpg" width="650" height="240" alt="SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF WILTON HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF WILTON HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p393-1" id="p393-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 445px;"> +<img src="images/p393-1.jpg" width="445" height="450" alt="FIRE-PLACE IN DOUBLE-CUBE ROOM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FIRE-PLACE IN DOUBLE-CUBE ROOM.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Returning along the valley of the Avon past the almost lifeless town of +Amesbury, where there formerly was a grand Benedictine monastery long +since gone to decay, we cross over to the Wiley Vale, and at about three +miles distance from Salisbury come to the Earl of Pembroke's seat at +Wilton House. The ancient town of Wilton—or, as it was originally +called, Willytown—stands at the confluence of the rivers Nadder and +Wiley. The Britons established it, and it was one of the capitals of the +West Saxons. It was famous long before the Norman Conquest, and it +afterwards obtained renown from the number and importance of its +monastic establishments, having had no less than twelve parish churches, +though not a trace of its abbey now remains. Henry VIII. dissolved it, +and gave the site and buildings to Sir William Herbert, who was +afterwards created Earl of Pembroke, and from its relics Wilton House +was largely constructed. The town is now chiefly noted as the +manufactory of Axminster and Wilton carpets, dextrously woven by +operatives who use most primitive machinery. The Earl's Park adjoins the +town, and in it is Wilton House, one of the grandest palaces in England, +standing upon the site of the abbey. The buildings were designed by +Holbein, and the garden front being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span> burned in 1648, was rebuilt soon +afterwards, while the entire structure was enlarged and remodelled +during the present century, the cloisters being then added for the +display of the fine collection of sculptures. The plan of the house is a +quadrangle, with a glazed cloister occupying the central square. Within +this cloister and the hall leading to it are the well-known Pembroke +Marbles—statues, busts, urns, vases, bassi-relievi, and fragments of +great value from Grecian and Roman works. This collection was formed +during the last century, being gathered by the then earl from various +sources. In the hall are statues, but its chief interest comes from the +numerous suits of armor with which it is adorned, chiefly memorials of +the battle of St. Quentin, fought in 1557, when the Earl of Pembroke +commanded the British forces. One of the suits was worn by the earl +himself, and two others by the Constable of France and the Duc de +Montpensier, both being taken prisoner. On either side are entrances to +various apartments containing valuable paintings. The chief of these is +the "Family Picture," regarded as Vandyke's masterpiece—seventeen feet +long and eleven feet high, and filling one end of the drawing-room. It +contains ten full-length figures—Philip, Earl of Pembroke, and his +countess and their children. Above them, hovering in the clouds, are +three other children, who died in early life. In the Double Cube-room, +which is regarded as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> a gem in its way and has a most magnificent +fireplace, there are some thirteen other paintings by Vandyke. Other +paintings by Italian masters are also distributed on the walls of the +various apartments, but the Vandykes are regarded as the gems of the +collection. The library is a large and lofty apartment, with an +oak-panelled ceiling, and a fine collection of volumes with appropriate +furnishing. Out of the library window the western view over the terrace +discloses charming pleasure-grounds, laid out in the Italian style from +designs by a former Countess of Pembroke, while in the background is a +beautiful porch constructed by Holbein. To the gardens, summer-houses +and conservatories add their attractions, while beyond is the valley of +the Nadder, over which a picturesque bridge leads to the park. This +bridge has an Ionic colonnade, and in the park are some of the finest +cedars to be seen in the kingdom. Here, it is said, Sir Philip Sidney +wrote <i>Arcadia</i>, and the work shows that he drew much inspiration from +these gardens and grounds, for it abounds in lifelike descriptions of +Nature.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p393-2" id="p393-2"></a> +<img src="images/p393-2.jpg" width="500" height="387" alt="THE LIBRARY, WILTON HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LIBRARY, WILTON HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p394" id="p394"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 304px;"> +<img src="images/p394.jpg" width="304" height="450" alt="LIBRARY WINDOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LIBRARY WINDOW.</span> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />At Wilton also lived George Herbert the poet, and later Sidney Herbert, +who was afterwards made Lord Herbert of Lea, and whose son is now the +thirteenth Earl of Pembroke. A statue of Sidney Herbert has already been +referred to as standing in Pall Mall, London, and another is in +Salisbury. He was secretary of war, yet was the gentle and genial +advocate of peace and charity to all mankind, and his premature death +was regarded as a public calamity. He erected in 1844 the graceful New +Church at Wilton. It was the Earls of Pembroke in the last century who +were chiefly instrumental in bringing the manufacturers of fine carpets +over from France and Flanders and laying the foundation of that trade, +in which England now far surpasses those countries. The factory at +Axminster, on the southern coast, was also afterwards transferred to +Wilton. These carpets are all hand-made, and the higher class, which are +an inch or more in thickness and of the softness of down when trod upon, +are also of the most gorgeous design and brilliancy of colors.</p> + + + +<h3>BATH.</h3> + +<p>Crossing over the hills to the north-west of Salisbury Plain, we descend +to the attractive valley of another river Avon, and come to the "Queen +of all the Spas in the World," the city of Bath. It is the chief town of +Somersetshire, and is surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. The abbey +and principal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> streets are in the valley, while above, on its northern +slope, rise terraces and crescents, tier upon tier, to a height of +nearly eight hundred feet, the most conspicuous being the Royal and the +Lansdowne Crescents. Many of the buildings are handsome, and are +constructed of the white great-oolite, known as bath-stone. To its +waters this famous resort owes its importance, but from an insignificant +place Bath has risen to the highest point of popularity as a fashionable +watering-place and in architectural magnificence through the genius of +Architect Wood and Master-of-Ceremonies Beau Nash. The legendary king +Bladud is said to have first discovered the Bath waters twenty-seven +hundred years ago, and to have built a town there and dedicated the +medicinal springs to Minerva, so that "Bladud's Well" has passed into a +proverb of sparkling inexhaustibility. The Romans, passionately attached +to the luxury of the hot springs, made Bath one of their chief stations, +and here and in the neighborhood the foundations of their extensive +buildings have been traced, with the remains of altars, baths, +tessellated pavements, and ornaments, and few British towns can produce +such a collection of Roman relics. In the height of the Roman power in +the fifth century the city extended nearly three miles along the valley, +and was surrounded by a wall twenty feet high and nine feet thick. Such +a fascinating spot was naturally selected for the foundation of a +religious house at an early period, and we consequently find that the +abbey of Bath was built by King Offa in the eighth century, and +refounded by King Edgar in the tenth century. It existed until the +dissolution in 1539. The church fell into decay in the reign of Henry +VII., and the present abbey-church was then built, being for a long time +unfinished. It has recently been restored. It stands at the southern +extremity of High Street, and is a fine specimen of Perpendicular +Gothic, the plan being a cross, with a tower at the intersection rising +one hundred and sixty-two feet and flanked by octagonal turrets. The +church is two hundred and ten feet long, and has a fan-traced, +stone-vaulted roof seventy-eight feet high, while the western front +contains a magnificent window flanked by turrets carved with angels, who +are ascending and descending, but have, unfortunately, all lost their +heads. The Pump Room, which is one of the chief buildings, is a +classical structure with a Corinthian portico bearing the motto, "Water, +best of elements!" A band plays in the spacious saloon, which also +contains a statue of the genius of Bath, Beau Nash, whose monument is in +the abbey-church. Here the waters, which are the hottest in England, +reaching a temperature of 120°, tumble continually from a +drinking-fountain into a serpentine basin beneath. There are numerous +other baths replete with comforts for the invalid, for this is +essentially a hospital town, and the city also contains many stately +public and private buildings, and its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span> Victoria Park and Sydney Gardens +are beautiful and popular resorts. The wild scenery of the neighborhood +provides myriads of attractive drives and walks, while on top of +Lansdowne Hill, where Beckford is buried, is his tower, one hundred and +fifty feet high and commanding extensive views. The Bath waters, which +are alkaline-sulphurous with a slight proportion of iron, are considered +beneficial for palsy, rheumatism, gout, and scrofulous and cutaneous +affections. The chief spring discharges one hundred and twenty-eight +gallons a minute. While a hundred years ago Bath was at the height of +its celebrity, the German spas have since diverted part of the stream of +visitors.</p> + + + +<h3>FONTHILL AND BECKFORD.</h3> + +<p>It was at Bath that Pitt and Sheridan lived, but its most eccentric +resident was William Beckford, the author of <i>Vathek</i>, who came to Bath +from Fonthill, not far from Salisbury. His father, a London alderman, +owned Fonthill, and died in 1770, leaving his son William, aged ten, +with $5,000,000 ready money and $500,000 annual income. He wrote +<i>Vathek</i> in early life after extensive travels, but founded its scenes +and characters upon places and people at Fonthill. He then began +building Fonthill Abbey, shrouding his proceedings in the greatest +mystery and surrounding his estate with a wall twelve feet high and +seven miles long, guarded by <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> to keep out intruders. +The building of the abbey was to him a romance pursued with wild +enthusiasm. So anxious was he to get it finished that he employed relays +of men, working day and night and throughout Sunday, keeping them +liberally supplied with liquor. The first tower was built of wood, four +hundred feet high, to see its effect, and it was then taken down and the +same form put up in wood covered with cement. This fell down, and the +third tower was built of masonry. When the idea of the abbey occurred to +Beckford he was extending a small summer-house, but he was in such a +hurry that he would not remove the summer-house to make a proper +foundation for the tower, but carried it up on the walls already +standing, the work being done in wretched style and chiefly by +semi-drunken men. He employed five hundred men day and night at the +work, and once the torches used set fire to the tower at the top, a +sight that he greatly enjoyed. Beckford lived at the abbey, practically +a hermit, for nearly twenty years, but his fortunes being impaired he +removed to Bath in 1822. Preparatory to selling Fonthill, he opened the +long-sealed place to public exhibition at a guinea a ticket, and sold +seventy-two hundred tickets. Then for thirty-seven days he conducted an +auction-sale of the treasures at Fonthill, charging a half-guinea +admission. He ultimately sold the estate for $1,750,000. In 1825 the +tower, which had been insecurely built, fell with a great crash, and so +frightened the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span> new owner, who was an invalid, that, though unhurt by +the disaster, he died soon afterwards. The estate was again sold and the +abbey taken down, so that now only the foundations can be traced.</p> + + + +<h3>BRISTOL.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding about twelve miles down the beautiful valley of the Avon, we +come to its junction with the Frome, where is located the ancient city +and port of Bristol, the capital of the west of England. A magnificent +suspension-bridge spans the gorge of the Avon, connecting Bristol with +its suburb of Clifton, and it is believed that the earliest settlements +by the Romans were on the heights of Clifton and the adjoining Brandon +Hill. The Saxons called it Bright-stow, or the "Illustrious City;" from +this the name changed to Bristow, as it was known in the twelfth +century, and Bristold in the reign of Henry III. When the original +owners concluded that it was time to come down from the hills, they +founded the city in the valley at the junction of the two rivers. A +market-cross was erected where the main streets joined, and Bristow +Castle was built at the eastern extremity, where the Avon makes a +right-angled bend. The town was surrounded with walls, and in the +thirteenth century the course of the Frome was diverted in order to make +a longer quay and get more room for buildings. Few traces remain of the +old castle, but portions of the ancient walls can still be seen. In the +fifteenth century the city-walls were described as lofty and massive and +protected by twenty-five embattled towers, some round and some square. +The abbey of St. Augustine was also then flourishing, having been +founded in the twelfth century. Bristol was in the Middle Ages the +second port of England, enjoying lucrative trade with all parts of the +world, and in the fifteenth century a Bristol ship carrying nine hundred +tons was looked upon with awe as a leviathan of the ocean. Sebastian +Cabot, the great explorer, was a native of Bristol, and his expeditions +were fitted out there, and it was Bristol that in 1838 built and sent +out the first English steamer that crossed the Atlantic, the Great +Western. It still enjoys a lucrative trade, and has recently opened new +docks at the mouth of the Avon, seven miles below the city, so that this +venerable port may be considered as renewing its prosperous career. It +has over two hundred thousand population, and in past times had the +honor of being represented in Parliament by Edmund Burke. When ancient +Bristol was in its heyday, Macaulay says the streets were so narrow that +a coach or cart was in danger of getting wedged between the buildings or +falling into the cellars. Therefore, goods were conveyed about the town +almost exclusively in trucks drawn by dogs, and the wealthy inhabitants +exhibited their riches not by riding in gilded car<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span>riages, but by +walking about the streets followed by a train of servants in gorgeous +liveries and by keeping tables laden with good cheer. The pomp of +christenings and funerals then far exceeded anything seen in any other +part of England, and the hospitality of the city was widely renowned. +This was especially the case with the banquets given by the guild of +sugar-refiners, where the drink was a rich beverage made of Spanish wine +and known as "Bristol milk." In 1831 the opposition of the Recorder of +Bristol to the Reform Bill resulted in serious riots, causing a great +fire that burned the Mansion House and a large number of other prominent +buildings. The troops suppressed the riots after shooting several +rioters, and four were afterwards hanged and twenty-six transported. The +city has since enjoyed a tranquil history.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p398" id="p398"></a> +<img src="images/p398.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="BRISTOL CATHEDRAL, FROM COLLEGE GREEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRISTOL CATHEDRAL, FROM COLLEGE GREEN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;"> +<a name="p399" id="p399"></a> +<img src="images/p399.jpg" width="426" height="500" alt="NORMAN DOORWAY, COLLEGE GREEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NORMAN DOORWAY, COLLEGE GREEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>Bristol Cathedral was the convent-church of St. Augustine's Abbey, and +was begun in the twelfth century. It formerly consisted only of the +choir and transepts, the nave having been destroyed in the fifteenth +century, but the nave was rebuilt in uniform style with the remainder of +the church in 1876. The cathedral presents a mixture of architectural +styles, and in it are the tombs of the Earls of Berkeley, who were its +benefactors for generations. Among them was Maurice, Lord Berkeley, who +died in 1368 from wounds received at Poictiers. The abbot, John Newland, +or Nail-heart, was also a benefactor of the abbey, and is said to have +erected the magnificent Norman doorway to the west of it leading to the +college green. The most attractive portion of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span> interior of the +cathedral is the north aisle of the choir, known as the Berkeley Chapel, +a beautiful specimen of Early English style. The side-aisles of the +choir are of the same height as the central aisle, and in the transepts +are monuments to Bishop Butler, author of the <i>Analogy</i>, and to Robert +Southey, who was a native of Bristol. This cathedral is not yet +complete, the external ornamentation of the nave and the upper portions +of the western towers being unfinished. Forty-seven bishops have sat +upon the episcopal throne of Bristol. The old market-cross, which stood +for four centuries in Bristol, was removed in the last century, but in +1860 it was replaced by a modern one erected upon the college green. The +church of St. Mary Redcliffe, standing upon a red sandstone rock on the +south side of the Avon, is the finest church in Bristol, and Chatterton +calls it the "Pride of Bristowe and Western Londe." It is an Early +Perpendicular structure, two hundred and thirty-one feet long, with a +steeple rising over two hundred feet, founded in the twelfth century, +but enlarged and rebuilt in the fifteenth century by William Canynge, +who was then described as "the richest merchant of Bristow, and chosen +five times mayor of the said town." He and his wife Joan have their +monuments in the church, and upon his tomb is inscribed the list of his +ships. He entered holy orders in his declining years, and founded a +college at Westbury, whither he retired. It has for many years been the +custom for the mayor and corporation of Bristol to attend this church on +Whitsunday in state, when the pavement is strewn with rushes and the +building decorated with flowers. In the western entrance is suspended a +bone of a large whale, which, according to tradition, is the rib of the +dun cow that anciently supplied Bristol with her milk. Sebastian Cabot, +in all probability, presented the city with this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span> bone after his +discovery of Newfoundland. The chief popular interest in St. Mary +Redcliffe, however, is its connection with Thomas Chatterton, born in a +neighboring street in 1752, the son of a humble schoolmaster, who +ultimately went up to London to write for the booksellers, and there +committed suicide at the early age of seventeen. A monument to this +precocious genius, who claimed to have recovered ancient manuscripts +from the church-archives, stands in the churchyard. Bristol is full of +old and quaint churches and narrow yet picturesque streets, with lofty +gabled timber-houses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p400" id="p400"></a> +<img src="images/p400.jpg" width="600" height="320" alt="CLIFTON SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, BRISTOL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CLIFTON SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, BRISTOL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The great gorge of the Avon, five hundred feet deep, is, however, its +most attractive possession. The suspension-bridge, erected by the +munificence of a citizen, spans this gorge at the height of two hundred +and eighty-seven feet, and cost nearly $500,000. It is twelve hundred +and twenty feet long, and has a single span of seven hundred and three +feet crossing the ravine between St. Vincent's Rocks and the Leigh +Woods. Alongside this gorge rises Brandon Hill, which Queen Elizabeth +sold to two citizens of Bristol, who in turn sold it to the city, with a +proviso that the corporation should there "admit the drying of clothes +by the townswomen, as had been accustomed;" and to this day its western +slope is still used as a clothes-drying ground. From this the tradition +arose—which, however, Bristol denounces as a libel—"that the queen +gave the use of this hill to poor freemen's daughters as a dowry, +because she took compassion on the many plain faces which she saw in one +of her visits." Some hot springs issue out of St. Vincent's Rocks, and +these give Clifton fame<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span> as a watering-place. A fine pump-house has been +built there, and the waters are said to be useful in pulmonary +complaints. From this beginning large and ornamental suburbs have been +terraced on the rocks and hills above the springs, while on the summit +is an observatory. There is a hermitage cave of great antiquity carved +in the perpendicular face of the rock just above the river, and known as +the "Giant's Hole." The entire neighborhood is full of charming scenery, +and thus the ancient port presents varied attractions, combining +business profit with recreation, while from the hilltops there are +glorious views extending far down Bristol Channel to the dim hills of +South Wales.</p> + + + +<h3>WELLS.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 493px;"> +<a name="p401" id="p401"></a> +<img src="images/p401.jpg" width="493" height="600" alt="WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE BISHOP'S GARDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE BISHOP'S GARDEN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p402" id="p402"></a> +<img src="images/p402.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SWAN POOL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SWAN POOL.</span> +</div> + +<p>Proceeding southward into Somersetshire, we arrive at the cathedral city +of Wells, which is united with Bath in the well-known bishopric of Bath +and Wells, and is considered the most completely representative +ecclesiastical city in England. It gets its name from its numerous +springs, taking their rise from the wells in the Bishop's Garden, where +they form a lake of great beauty, while bright, clear water runs through +various streets of the town. After leaving the edge of the Bristol +Channel the plain of the Somersetshire lowlands is bordered by rocky +uplands, of which the most important is the elevated plateau known as +the Mendip Hills, carved on the outside with winding valleys having +precipitous sides. Wells nestles in a wide grassy basin at the foot of +the Mendips, its entire history being ecclesiastical, and that not very +eventful. It never had a castle, and no defensive works beyond the wall +and moat enclosing the bishop's palace. It seems to have had its origin +from the Romans, who worked lead-mines among the Mendips, but the first +fact actually known about it is that the Saxon king Ina established here +a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span> house of secular canons "near a spring dedicated to St. Andrew." It +grew in importance and privileges until it became a bishopric, there +having been fifteen bishops prior to the Norman Conquest. The double +title of Bishop of Bath and Wells was first assumed in the days of King +Stephen. In looking at the town from a distance two buildings rise +conspicuously—the belfry of St. Cuthbert's Church and the group of +triple towers crowning the cathedral. There are few aggregations of +ecclesiastical buildings in England that surpass those of Wells, with +the attractive gateways and antique houses of the close, the grand +façade of the cathedral, and the episcopal palace with its ruined +banquet-hall and surrounding moat. From the ancient market-square of the +city, stone gateways surmounted by gray towers give access, one to the +close and the other to the enclosure of the palace. Entering the close, +the western front of the cathedral is seen, the most beautiful façade of +its kind in Britain—an exquisite piece of Early English architecture, +with Perpendicular towers and unrivalled sculptures rising tier upon +tier, with architectural accompaniments such as are only to be found at +Chartres or Rheims. The old Saxon cathedral lasted until Bishop +Jocelyn's time in the thirteenth century, when he began a systematic +rebuilding, which was not finished until the days of Bishop Beckington +in the fifteenth century, who completed the gateways and cloisters. +Entering the cathedral, the strange spectacle is at once seen of +singular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span> inverted arches under the central tower, forming a cross of +St. Andrew, to whom the building is dedicated. These arches were +inserted subsequently to the erection of the tower to strengthen its +supports—an ingenious contrivance not without a certain beauty. The +choir is peculiar and beautiful, and produces a wonderful effect, due to +its groups of arches, the Lady Chapel and retro-choir, and the rich +splendors of the stained glass. The chapter-house, north-east of the +northern transept, is built over a crypt, and is octagonal in plan, the +roof supported by a central column, while the crypt beneath has an +additional ring of columns. The cloisters are south of the cathedral, +having three walks, with galleries above the eastern and western walks, +the former being the library. Through the eastern wall of the cloisters +a door leads to a private garden, in which and in the Bishop's Garden +adjoining are the wells that name the city. The most important of these +is St. Andrew's Well, whence a spring issues into a large pool. The +water from the wells falls by two cascades into the surrounding moat, +and a conduit also takes away some of it to supply the town. From the +edge of the pool is the most striking view of the cathedral.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;"> +<a name="p403" id="p403"></a> +<img src="images/p403.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="VIEW UNDER CENTRAL TOWER, WELLS CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW UNDER CENTRAL TOWER, WELLS CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p404" id="p404"></a> +<img src="images/p404.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="RUINS OF THE OLD BANQUET-HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE OLD BANQUET-HALL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The close is surrounded by various ancient houses, and the embattled +wall with its bastioned towers and moat encloses about fifteen acres. +Here is the gateway known as the "Bishop's Eye," and another called the +"Dean's Eye," the deanery where Henry VII. was entertained in 1497, the +archdeanery, coming down from the thirteenth century, and the beautiful +Chain Gate in the north-east corner that connects the cathedral with the +Vicar's Close. The latter, one of the most peculiar features of Wells, +is a long and narrow court entered through an archway, and having +ancient houses with modernized fittings on either hand. Bishop Ralph of +Shrewsbury erected this close in the fourteenth century, and his +monumental inscription in the cathedral tells us he was a great +sportsman, who "destroyed by hunting all the wild beasts of the great +forest of Cheddar." The moat and wall completely surround the bishop's +palace, and its northern front overhangs the moat, where an oriel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span> +window is pointed out as the room where Bishop Kidder and his wife were +killed by the falling of a stack of chimneys upon their bed, blown down +by the terrible gale of 1703 that swept away the Eddystone Lighthouse. +It was Bishop Ralph who made the walls and moat as a defence against the +monks of Bath, who had threatened to kill him; Bishop Jocelyn built the +palace. Adjoining it is the great banquet-hall, of which only the +northern and western walls remain, in ruins. It was a magnificent hall, +destroyed from mere greed. After the alienation of the monasteries it +fell into the hands of Sir John Gates, who tore it partly down to sell +the materials; but happily, as the antiquarian relates, Gates was +beheaded in 1553 for complicity in Lady Jane Grey's attempt to reach the +throne, and the desecration was stopped. Afterwards, Parliament sold +Wells for a nominal price to Dr. Burgess, and he renewed the spoliation, +but, fortunately again, the Restoration came; he had to give up his +spoils, and died in jail. Thus was the remnant of the ruin saved. It was +in this hall that Whiting, the last abbot of Glastonbury, was condemned, +and hanged on Tor Hill above his own abbey. The great bishops of Wells +were the episcopal Nimrod Ralph, and Beckington, who left his mark so +strongly on the cathedral and town. He was a weaver's son, born at the +village of Beckington, near the town of Frome, and from it got his name. +Hadrian de Castello, who had a romantic history, became Bishop of Wells +in 1504. Pope Alexander VI. made him a cardinal, and afterwards tried to +poison him with some others at a banquet; by mistake the pope himself +drank of the poisoned wine,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> and died. The bishop afterwards entered +into a conspiracy against Leo X., but, being detected, escaped from Rome +in disguise and disappeared. Wolsey was Bishop of Wells at one time, but +the most illustrious prelate who held the see after the Reformation was +Thomas Ken. He was educated at Winchester, and afterwards became a +prebend of the cathedral there. Charles II. paid a visit to Winchester, +and, bringing Nell Gwynne with him, Ken was asked to allow her to occupy +his house. He flatly refused, which had just the opposite effect upon +the king to that which would be supposed, for he actually respected Ken +for it, and when the see of Wells became vacant he offered it to "the +little fellow who would not give poor Nelly a lodging." Ken attended the +king's deathbed shortly afterwards. He was very popular in the diocese, +and after the Sedgemoor battle he succored the fugitives, and with the +Bishop of Ely gave spiritual consolation to the unfortunate Duke of +Monmouth on the scaffold. Ken was one of the six bishops committed by +James II. to the Tower, but, strangely enough, he declined to take the +oaths of allegiance to William III., and, being deprived of preferment, +retired to the home of his nephew, Izaak Walton. All reverence his +sanctity and courage, and admire his morning and evening hymns, written +in a summer-house in the Bishop's Garden.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p405" id="p405"></a> +<img src="images/p405.jpg" width="600" height="353" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE CHEDDAR CLIFFS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE CHEDDAR CLIFFS.</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"> +<a name="p406" id="p406"></a> +<img src="images/p406.jpg" width="376" height="600" alt="HIGH ROCKS AT CHEDDAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HIGH ROCKS AT CHEDDAR.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Mendip Hills, with their picturesque gorges and winding valleys, +were formerly a royal forest. It was here that King Edmund was hunting +the red deer when his horse took fright and galloped towards the brow of +the highest part of the Cheddar Cliffs. Shortly before, the king had +quarrelled with Dun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span>stan, and expelled the holy man from his court. As +the horse galloped with him to destruction, he vowed if preserved to +make amends. The horse halted on the brink as if checked by an unseen +hand, and the king immediately sought Dunstan and made him abbot of +Glastonbury. These hills were the haunt of the fiercest wild beasts in +England, and their caves still furnish relics of lions to a larger +extent than any other part of the kingdom. The most remarkable deposit +of these bones is in the Wookey Hole, on the southern edge of the +Mendips, about two miles from Wells. At the head of a short and +picturesque glen, beneath an ivy-festooned cliff, is a cavern whence the +river Axe issues and flows down the glen. The cave that disclosed the +animal bones is on the left bank of the glen, and was but recently +discovered in making a mill-race. It also contained about three hundred +old Roman coins, rude flint implements, and skeletons of a mammoth and +woolly rhinoceros. The larger cave, which is hung with fine stalactites, +can be explored for some distance. Near the entrance is a mass of rock +known as the Witch of Wookey, who was turned into stone there by a +timely prayer from a monk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span> who opportunely arrived from Glastonbury. The +underground course of the Axe in and beyond this cave is traced for at +least two miles. The Mendips contain other pretty glens and gorges, and +from the summit of their cliffs can be seen the valley of the Axe +winding away southward, while to the westward the scene broadens into +the level plains that border the Bristol Channel, guarded on either side +by the hills of Exmoor and of Wales. Little villages cluster around the +bases of the hills, the most noted being Cheddar, famous for its cheese, +straggling about the entrance to a gorge in which caves are numerous, +each closed by a door, where an admission-fee is charged. Some of them +are lighted with gas and entered upon paved paths. Lead-and zinc-mines +are worked in the glens, and above Cheddar rises the Black Down to a +height of eleven hundred feet, the most elevated summit of the Mendips.</p> + + + +<h3>GLASTONBURY.</h3> + +<p>About six miles south-west of Wells is the ancient Isle of Avelon, where +St. Patrick is said to have spent the closing years of his life, and +where are the ruins of one of the earliest and most extensive religious +houses in England—Glastonbury Abbey. A sixpence is charged to visit the +ruins, which adjoin the chief street, but the remnants of the vast +church, that was nearly six hundred feet long, are scanty. Of the +attendant buildings there only remain the abbot's kitchen and an +adjoining gateway, now converted into an inn. This kitchen is about +thirty-four feet square within the walls and seventy-two feet high. The +church ruins include some of the walls and tower-foundations, with a +well-preserved and exceedingly rich chapel dedicated to St. Joseph. On +the High Street is the old George Inn, which was the hostelrie for the +pilgrims, built in the reign of Edward IV. and still used. It is fronted +by a splendid mass of panelling, and the central gateway has a +bay-window alongside rising the entire height of the house. The church +of St. John the Baptist in Glastonbury has a fine tower, elevated one +hundred and forty feet and richly adorned with canopied niches, being +crowned by an open-work parapet and slender pinnacles. Almost the entire +town of Glastonbury is either constructed from spoils of the abbey or +else is made up of parts of its buildings. One of the most +characteristic of the preserved buildings is the Tribunal, now a suite +of lawyers' offices. Its deeply-recessed lower windows and the oriel +above have a venerable appearance, while beyond rises the tower of St. +John the Baptist. Behind the town is the "Weary-all Hill," from which +arose the foundation of the monastery. Tradition tells that Joseph of +Arimathea, toiling up the steep ascent, drove his thorn staff into the +ground and said to his followers that they would rest there. The thorn +budded, and still flowers, it is said, in winter. This was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span> regarded as +an omen, and they constructed the abbey there around the chapel of St. +Joseph. The ponderous abbot's kitchen, we are told, was built by the +last abbot, who boasted, when Henry VIII. threatened to burn the +monastery, that he would have a kitchen that all the wood in Mendip +Forest could not burn down. King Arthur was buried at Glastonbury, and a +veracious historian in the twelfth century wrote that he was present at +the disinterment of the remains of the king and his wife. "The shin-bone +of the king," he says, "when placed side by side with that of a tall +man, reached three fingers above his knee, and his skull was fearfully +wounded." The remains of King Arthur's wife, which were quite perfect, +fell into dust upon exposure to the air.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="p408" id="p408"></a> +<img src="images/p408.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="GLASTONBURY TRIBUNAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GLASTONBURY TRIBUNAL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>SEDGEMOOR BATTLEFIELD.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding westward towards the Bristol Channel, the low and marshy +plain of Sedgemoor is reached. Much of it is reclaimed from the sea, and +here and there the surface is broken by isolated knolls, there being +some two hundred square miles of this region, with the range of Polden +Hills extending through it and rising in some places three hundred feet +high. In earlier times this was an exact reproduction of the +Cambridgeshire fenland, and then, we are told,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"The flood of the Severn Sea flowed over half the plain,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And a hundred capes, with huts and trees, above the flood remain;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Tis water here and water there, and the lordly Parrett's way</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hath never a trace on its pathless face, as in the former day."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>It is changed now, being thoroughly drained, but in the days of the +Saxons the river Parrett was the frontier of Wessex, and one of its +districts sheltered Alfred from the first onset of the Danish invasion +when he retreated to the fastnesses of the Isle of Athelney. In the +epoch of the Normans and in the Civil War there was fighting all along +the Parrett. After the defeat at Naseby the Royalists, under Lord +Goring, on July 10, 1645, met their foes on the bank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</a></span> of the Parrett, +near Langport, were defeated and put to flight, losing fourteen thousand +prisoners, and the king's troops never made a stand afterwards. +Bridgwater is a quiet town of about twelve thousand people on the +Parrett, a half dozen miles from the sea, and in its churchyard reposes +Oldmixon, who was made collector of customs here as a reward for his +abusive writings, in the course of which he virulently attacked Pope. +The poet retorted by giving Oldmixon a prominent place in the <i>Dunciad</i>, +where at a diving-match in the putrid waters of Fleet Ditch, which +"rolls the large tribute of dead dogs to the Thames," the heroes are +bidden to "prove who best can dash through thick and thin, and who the +most in love of dirt excel." And thus the Bridgwater collector:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"In naked majesty Oldmixon stands,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And Milo-like surveys his arms and hands,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then sighing thus, 'And am I now threescore?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And why ye gods should two and two make four?'</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He said, and climbed a stranded lighter's height.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shot to the black abyss, and plunged downright."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>In the Market Inn at Bridgwater Admiral Blake was born, who never held a +naval command until past the age of fifty, and then triumphed over the +Dutch and the Spaniards, disputing Van Tromp's right to hoist a broom at +his masthead, and burned the Spanish fleet in the harbor of Santa Cruz. +He was buried in Westminster Abbey, but Charles II. ejected his bones. +Bridgwater is now chiefly noted for its bath bricks, made of a mixture +of clay and sand deposited near there by the tidal currents.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p409" id="p409"></a> +<img src="images/p409.jpg" width="550" height="333" alt="SEDGEMOOR, FROM COCK HILL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SEDGEMOOR, FROM COCK HILL.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[Pg 410]</a></span></p> + + +<p class="author"> <span class="caption"><a name="p410" id="p410"></a>WESTON ZOYLAND CHURCH.</span></p> + + +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p410.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:310px; height:90px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:330px; height:50px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:530px; height:260px;"> </div> + + + +<p>It was from the Bridgwater church tower that the unfortunate son of +Charles II. and Lucy Walters, who had been proclaimed "King Monmouth," +looked out upon the grassy plains towards the eastward before venturing +the last contest for the kingdom. This view is over Sedgemoor, the scene +of the last fight deserving the name of a battle that has been fought on +British ground. It is a long tract of morass lying between the foot of +the Polden Hills and the Parrett River, but with a fringe of somewhat +higher ground along the latter, where are Weston Zoyland, Chedzoy, and +Middlezoy, each a hamlet clustering around its old church, that at +Weston Zoyland being surmounted by an attractive square tower over one +hundred feet high. Monmouth had been proclaimed king by the mayor and +corporation of Bridgwater June 21, 1685, but had been checked at Bath, +and fell back again to Bridgwater, where his army was encamped on the +Castle Field. He had been three weeks in the kingdom without marked +success, and the royal army was closing in upon him. Four thousand +troops under Lord Feversham marched westward, and on the Sunday evening +of July 5th, when Monmouth looked out from the tower, had encamped upon +Sedgemoor about three miles from Bridgwater. Monmouth had seven thousand +men to oppose them, but his forces were mostly undisciplined and badly +armed, some having only scythes fastened on poles. The moor was then +partly reclaimed and intersected by trenches, and Feversham's +headquarters was at Weston Zoyland, where the royal cavalry were +encamped,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[Pg 411]</a></span> with the other troops at Middlezoy and Chedzoy beyond. +Monmouth saw that their divisions were somewhat separated, and that his +only hope was a night-attack. At midnight he started, marching his army +by a circuitous route to the royal camp, strict silence being observed +and not a drum beaten or a shot fired. Three ditches had to be crossed +to reach the camp, two of which Monmouth knew of, but he was +unfortunately ignorant of the third, called the Bussex Rhine, behind +which the camp had been made. A fog came down over the moor; the first +ditch was crossed successfully, but the guide missing his way caused +some confusion before the second was reached, during which a pistol was +discharged that aroused a sentinel, who rode off and gave the alarm. As +the royal drums beat to arms Monmouth rapidly advanced, when he suddenly +found himself checked by the Bussex Rhine, behind which the royal army +was forming in line of battle in the fog. "For whom are you?" demanded a +royal officer. "For the king," replied a voice from the rebel cavalry. +"For what king?" was demanded. The answer was a shout for "King +Monmouth," mingled with Cromwell's old war-cry of "God with us!" +Immediately the royal troops replied with a terrific volley of musketry +that sent the rebel cavalry flying in all directions. Monmouth, then +coming up with the infantry, was startled to find the broad ditch in +front of him. His troops halted on the edge, and for three quarters of +an hour the opposing forces fired volleys at each other across the +ditch. But the end was not far off. John Churchill was a subordinate in +the royal army and formed its line of battle, thus indicating the future +triumphs of the Duke of Marlborough. Then the royal cavalry came up, and +in a few minutes the rebels were routed, and Monmouth, seeing all was +lost, rode from the field. His foot-soldiers, with their scythes and +butt-ends of muskets, made a gallant stand, fighting like old soldiers, +though their ammunition was all gone. To conquer them the artillery were +brought up, for which service the Bishop of Winchester loaned his +coach-horses. The cannon were ill served, but routed the rebels, and +then the infantry poured over the ditch and put them to flight. The king +lost three hundred killed and wounded; the rebel loss was at least a +thousand slain, while there was little mercy for the survivors. The sun +rose over a field of carnage, with the king's cavalry hacking and hewing +among their fleeing foes. Monmouth, with one or two followers, was by +this time far away among the hills, but was afterwards captured in the +New Forest, and ended his life on the scaffold. The Sedgemoor carnage +went on all the morning; the fugitives poured into Bridgwater with the +pursuers at their heels; five hundred prisoners were crowded into Weston +Zoyland Church, and the next day a long row of gibbets appeared on the +road between the town and the church. Bridgwater suffered under a reign +of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[Pg 412]</a></span> terror from Colonel Kirke and his "Lambs," who put a hundred +prisoners to death during the week following the battle, and treated the +others with great cruelty. Then Judge Jeffreys came there to execute +judicial tortures, and by his harsh and terrible administration of the +law, and his horrible cruelties and injustice, gained the reputation +that has ever since been execrated.</p></div> + +<p>Six miles south-east of Bridgwater is the Isle of Athelney, a peninsula +in the marsh between the Parrett and the Tone. Here King Alfred sought +refuge from the Danes until he could get time to mature the plans that +ultimately drove them from his kingdom. It was while here that the +incident of the burned cakes occurred. The king was disguised as a +peasant, and, living in a swineherd's cottage, performed various menial +offices. The good wife left him in charge of some cakes that were +baking, with instructions to turn them at the proper time. His mind +wandered in thought and he forgot his trust. The good wife returned, +found the cakes burning, and the guest dreaming by the fireside; she +lost her temper, and expressed a decided opinion about the lazy lout who +was ready enough to eat, but less ready to work. In the seventeenth +century there was found in the marshes here a jewel that Alfred had +lost: it is of gold and enamel, bearing words signifying, "Alfred had me +wrought." The following spring (878) he sallied forth, defeated the +Danes in Wiltshire, and captured their king Guthram, who was afterwards +baptized near Athelney by the name of Æthelstan; they still show his +baptismal font in Aller Church, near by.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p412" id="p412"></a> +<img src="images/p412.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="THE ISLE OF ATHELNEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ISLE OF ATHELNEY.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[Pg 413]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>SHERBORNE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;"> +<a name="p413" id="p413"></a> +<img src="images/p413.jpg" width="362" height="550" alt="SHERBORNE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SHERBORNE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Crossing over from Somersetshire into Dorsetshire, we arrive in the +northern part of that county at Sherborne, which was one of the earliest +religious establishments in this part of England, having been founded by +King Ina in the eighth century. Here was the see that was removed to Old +Sarum in the eleventh century, and subsequently to Salisbury. After the +removal, Sherborne became an abbey, and its remains are to be seen in +the parish church, which still exists, of Norman architecture, and +having a low central tower supported by massive piers. The porch is +almost all that survives of the original structure, the remainder having +been burned in 1436, but afterwards restored. Within this church are +buried the Saxon kings, Æthelbald and Æthelbert, the brothers of King +Alfred. Such of the domestic buildings of the abbey as have been +preserved are now the well-known Sherborne Grammar-School. The great +bell of the abbey was given it by Cardinal Wolsey, and weighed sixty +thousand pounds. It bears this motto:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[Pg 414]</a></span></p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"By Wolsey's gift I measure time for all;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To mirth, to grief, to church, I serve to call."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>It was unfortunately cracked in 1858, but has been recast. The chief +fame of Sherborne, however, is as the home of Sir Walter Raleigh, of +whom Napier says that his "fortunes were alike remarkable for enviable +success and pitiable reverses. Raised to eminent station through the +favor of the greatest female sovereign of England, he perished on the +scaffold through the dislike and cowardly policy of the meanest of her +kings." The original castle of Sherborne was built in the reign of Henry +I., and its owner bestowed it upon the bishopric of Old Sarum with +certain lands, accompanying the gift with a perpetual curse "that +whosoever should take these lands from the bishopric, or diminish them +in great or small, should be accursed, not only in this world, but in +the world to come, unless in his lifetime he made restitution thereof." +Herein tradition says was the seed of Raleigh's misfortunes. King +Stephen dispossessed the lands, and gave them to the Montagues, who met +with grievous disasters, the estate ultimately reverting to the Church. +In Edward VI.'s reign Sherborne was conveyed to the Duke of Somerset, +but he was beheaded. Again they reverted to the Church, until one day +Raleigh, journeying from Plymouth to London, the ancient historian says, +"the castle being right in the way, he cast such an eye upon it as Ahab +did upon Naboth's vineyard, and once, above the rest, being talking of +it, of the commodiousness of the place, and of the great strength of the +seat, and how easily it might be got from the bishopric, suddenly over +and over came his horse, that his very face (which was then thought a +very good one) ploughed up the earth where he fell. This fall was +ominous, and no question he was apt to consider it so." But Raleigh did +not falter, notwithstanding the omen. He begged and obtained the grant +of the castle from Queen Elizabeth, and then married Elizabeth +Throgmorton and returned there, building himself a new house surrounded +by ornamental gardens and orchards. He settled the estate ultimately +upon his son, but his enemies got King James to take it away and give it +to a young Scotch favorite, Robert Carr, afterwards Earl of Somerset. +Lady Raleigh upon her knees, with her children, appealed to James not to +do this, but it was of no avail. The king only answered, "I mun have the +land; I mun have it for Carr." She was a woman of high spirit, and while +still on her knees she prayed God to punish those who had wrongfully +exposed her and her children to ruin. Carr met with constant +misfortunes, being ultimately implicated in a murder and imprisoned. +James's son Charles, afterwards king, aided to bring Raleigh to the +block, while the widow had the satisfaction of living long enough to be +assured that Charles would meet the same fate. The remains of the +castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[Pg 415]</a></span> are at the east end of Sherborne, covering about four acres on a +rocky eminence surrounded by a ditch. The gate-tower and portions of the +walls and buildings still exist. The house that Raleigh built is now +called the "Castle," and has since had extensive wings added to it, with +a fine lake between it and the old castle-ruins, surrounded by +attractive pleasure-grounds and a park. This famous estate fell into +possession of the Earl of Digby, and is now a home of G. D. Wingfield +Digby, Esq., being a popular resort in the hunting-season.</p> + + + +<h3>THE COAST OF DORSET.</h3> + +<p><a name="p416" id="p416"></a><span class="caption">CORFE CASTLE.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p416.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:560px; height:430px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:200px; height:100px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:150px; height:80px;"> </div> + + +<p>The river Avon upon which Salisbury stands—for there are several of +these Avon Rivers in England—flows southward between Dorsetshire and +Hampshire, and falls into the Channel. Westward from its mouth extends a +line of sandy cliffs, broken by occasional ravines or chines, past +Bournemouth to Poole Harbor, a broad estuary surrounded by low hills +which is protected by a high ridge of chalk rocks on its south-western +side running out into the sea. The sleepy town of Poole stands on the +shore, having dim recollections of its ships and commerce of centuries +ago. It was a nursery for privateersmen, and many are the exploits +recorded of them. It was also, from the intricacy of its creeks and the +roving character of its people, a notorious place for smuggling. Poole +is an old-fashioned, brick-built town, with a picturesque gateway yet +remaining as a specimen of its ancient defences. In the vale of the +Stour, which here debouches, is the ancient minster of Wimborne, founded +in the reign of King Ina by his sister, and containing the grave of the +Saxon king Æthelred. It is not remarkable excepting for its age, and for +having had for its dean Reginald Pole before he became a cardinal. The +ancient and shrunken town of Wareham is also near by, having had quite a +military history, but being almost destroyed by fire in 1762, from which +it never recovered. It has now but three churches out of the eight it +originally possessed, and of these only one is in regular use. But the +great memory of this part of the coast is connected with Corfe Castle.</p> + + + +<p>The so-called Isle of Purbeck is near Poole Harbor, and the ruined +castle of Corfe stands in a narrow gap in the hills, guarding the +entrance to the southern part of this island, its name being derived +from <i>ceorfan</i>, meaning "to cut," so that it refers to the cut or gap in +the hills. Queen Ælfrida in the tenth century had a hunting-lodge here. +According to the legend, her stepson, King Edward, was hunting in the +neighborhood and stopped at the door to ask for a drink. It was brought, +and as he raised the cup to his lips he was stabbed in the back—it is +said by the queen's own hand. He put spurs to his horse, galloped off, +fell, and was dragged along the road, the battered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[Pg 416]</a></span> corpse being buried +at Wareham. The queen had committed this murder for the benefit of her +youngest son, and hearing him bewail his brother's death, she flew into +a passion, and, no cudgel being at hand, belabored him so stoutly with a +large wax candle that he could never afterwards bear the sight of one. +The king's remains were then translated to Shaftesbury, miracles were +wrought, and the queen, finding affairs becoming serious, founded two +nunneries in expiation of the murder, to one of which she retired. This +began the fame of the Isle of Purbeck, although the present Corfe Castle +was not built till the twelfth century. It was attacked by, but baffled, +Stephen, and King John used it as a royal residence, prison, and +treasure-house. Here he starved to death twenty-two French knights who +had been partisans of his nephew Arthur; and he also hanged a hermit +named Peter who had made rash prophecies of his downfall, this being +intended as a wholesome warning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[Pg 417]</a></span> to other unwelcome prophets. Its +subsequent history was uneventful until the Civil War, when it was +greatly enlarged and strengthened, occupying the upper part of the hill +overlooking the village. Now it is ruined in every part: the +entrance-gateway leans over and is insecure, the walls are rent, and the +towers shattered, while the keep is but a broken shell, with one side +entirely gone. This destruction was done in the Civil War, when Corfe +was held for King Charles. In 1643, when the owner, Sir John Bankes, was +absent, the castle was attacked, and his lady hastily collected the +tenantry and some provisions and made the best defence she could. The +besiegers melted down the roof of the village church for bullets, and +approached the castle-walls under cover of two pent-houses called, +respectively, "the Boar" and "the Sow." So galling a fire, however, was +kept up by the defenders that they were driven off, and their commander +with difficulty rallied them for another attack, being well fortified +with "Dutch courage." This time the brave little garrison, even the +women and children taking part, hurled down upon them hot embers, +paving-stones, and whatever else came handiest, and again drove them off +when the effect of the liquor was spent; then, the king's forces coming +to the rescue, they decamped. But the fortunes of Charles waned: he was +defeated at Naseby, Sir John Bankes died, and Corfe was the only +stronghold left him between London and Exeter. Again it was attacked, +and, through treachery, captured. It was afterwards dismantled and blown +up by gunpowder, while its heroic defender, Lady Bankes, was deprived of +her dowry as penalty for her "malignity." She received it again, +however, and had the satisfaction of living until after the Restoration.</p></div> + + + + +<p class="author"><a name="p418" id="p418"></a><span class="caption">1. STUDLAND CHURCH. 2. RUINS OF OLD CROSS IN THE +CHURCHYARD.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p418.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:350px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:380px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:410px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:440px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:470px; height:30px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:490px; height:180px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:470px; height:60px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:80px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:280px; height:150px;"> </div> + +<p>Beyond the range of chalk-cliffs that here cross Dorsetshire the coast +runs several miles southward from Poole Harbor, the promontory of the +Foreland protruding into the sea and dividing the shore into two bays. +The northern one is Studland Bay, alongside which is the singular rock +of the Agglestone. The devil, we are told, was sitting one day upon one +of the Needles off the neighboring coast of the Isle of Wight, looking +about him to see what the world was doing, when he espied the towers of +Corfe Castle just rising towards completion; he seized a huge rock and +hurled it at the castle, but it fell short, and remains to this day upon +the moor. Nestling under the slopes of this moor, in a ravine leading +down to the shore, is Studland village, with its little Norman church +embosomed in foliage and surrounded by ancient gravestones and memorial +crosses. South of the Foreland, and protected by the chalk range from +the northern blasts, is Swanage Bay, bordered by its little town, which +in past times has been variously called Swanwich, Sandwich, and Swanage. +It is a quiet watering-place at the east end of Purbeck Isle, landlocked +from every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[Pg 418]</a></span> rough wind, a pleasant spot for summer sea-bathing, with +huge elms growing on its beach and garden-flowers basking in the +sunshine. The Purbeck marble, which was so extensively used for +church-building a few centuries ago, and which may be seen in +Westminster Abbey, Canterbury, Salisbury, Ely, and other cathedrals, was +quarried here, though other quarries of it exist in Britain. It is an +aggregate of freshwater shells, which polishes handsomely, but is liable +to crumble, and has in later years been generally superseded by other +building-stone. The coast southward is lined with quarries, and the +lofty promontory of St. Aldhelm's Head projects into the sea, a +conspicuous headland seen from afar. It was named for the first Bishop +of Sherborne, and its summit rises nearly five hundred feet, being +crowned by an ancient chapel, where in former days a priest trimmed the +beacon-light and prayed for the mariners' safety. This cliff exhibits +sections of Portland stone, and the view is unusually fine, the entire +coast displaying vast walls of cream-colored limestone. These rocks +extend westward past Encombe, where Chancellor Eldon closed his life, +and the Vale of Kimmeridge, where they dig a dark blue clay, and +Worbarrow Bay, with its amphitheatre of crags composed of Portland stone +and breached here and there to form the gateways into interior coves. +Here are the Barndoor Cove, entered through a natural archway; the +Man-of-War Cove, its guardian rock representing a vessel; and Lulworth +Cove, with its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[Pg 419]</a></span> castle-ruins, most of which have been worked into the +modern structure near by where the exiled French king, Charles X., once +lived.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p419" id="p419"></a> +<img src="images/p419.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="ST. ALDHELM'S HEAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. ALDHELM'S HEAD.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>WEYMOUTH AND PORTLAND.</h3> + +<p>The coast next sweeps around to the southward, forming the broad expanse +of Weymouth Bay, with the precipitous headland of the White Nore on the +one hand, and the crags of Portland Isle spreading on the other far out +to sea, with the breakwater extending to the northward enclosing the bay +and making a harbor under the lee of which vast fleets can anchor in +safety. Weymouth is a popular watering-place and the point of departure +for steamers for the Channel Islands, and it was George III.'s favorite +resort. He had a house there, and on the cliffs behind the town an +ingenious soldier, by cutting away the turf and exposing the white chalk +beneath, has made a gigantic figure of the king on horseback, of clever +execution and said to be a good likeness. Weymouth has a steamboat-pier +and an attractive esplanade, and on the cliffs west of the town and +overlooking the sea are the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle, erected for +coast-defence by Henry VIII. They are of little interest, however, and +south of them is the estuary of the Fleet, which divides Portland Isle +from the mainland, but these are linked together by the Chesil Bank, a +huge mound of pebbles forming a natural breakwater. At the lower end it +is an embankment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</a></span> forty feet high, composed of large pebbles, some +reaching a foot in diameter. As it stretches northward it decreases +gradually in height and in the size of its pebbles, till it becomes a +low shingly beach. To this great natural embankment the value of +Portland Harbor is chiefly due, and many are the theories to account for +its formation. Near the estuary of the Fleet is Abbotsbury, where are +the ruins of an ancient church and the Earl of Ilchester's famous +swannery, where he has twelve hundred swans.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p420" id="p420"></a> +<img src="images/p420.jpg" width="600" height="416" alt="PORTLAND ISLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PORTLAND ISLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Isle of Portland, thus strangely linked to the mainland, is an +elevated limestone plateau guarded on all sides by steep cliffs and +about nine miles in circumference. Not far from the end of the Chesil +Bank is Portland Castle, another coast-defence erected by Henry VIII. +Near by, on the western slope, is the village of Chesilton. The highest +part of the isle is Verne Hill, four hundred and ninety-five feet high, +where there is a strong fort with casemated barracks that can +accommodate three thousand men. Other works also defend the island, +which is regarded of great strategic importance, and in the neighborhood +are the famous quarries whence the Portland stone has been excavated for +two centuries. The most esteemed is the hard, pale, cream-colored +oolite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[Pg 421]</a></span> which was introduced to the notice of London by Inigo Jones, +and has been popular ever since. With it have been built St. Paul's +Cathedral, Somerset House, the towers of Westminster Abbey, and +Whitehall, with other London buildings. Here also was quarried the stone +for the great breakwater, of which the late Prince Consort deposited the +first stone in 1849, and the Prince of Wales the last one in 1872, +making the largest artificial harbor in the world. The first portion of +this breakwater runs east from the shore eighteen hundred feet. There is +an opening four hundred feet wide, and the outer breakwater thence +extends north-east six thousand feet, terminated by a strong circular +fort guarding the harbor entrance. It cost over $5,000,000, and about +one thousand convicts were employed in its construction, which took +nearly six million tons of stone. The materials, quarried and laden on +cars by the convicts, were sent down an inclined plane and out to the +appointed place, where they were emptied into the sea. The prison of the +convicts is on the east side of the island adjoining the quarries, and +is almost a town of itself, having twenty-five hundred inmates. The +prison-garb is blue and white stripes in summer, and a brownish-gray +jacket and oilskin cap in winter. The convicts have built their own +chapels and schools, and on the Cove of Church Hope near by are the +ruins of Bow and Arrow Castle, constructed by William Rufus on a cliff +overhanging the sea, and also a modern building known as Pennsylvania +Castle, built by William Penn's grandson in a sheltered nook. The views +here are of great beauty, while at the southern end of the promontory is +the castellated mass of rocks projecting far into the sea, and +supporting two lighthouses, known as the Portland Bill. Below is the +dangerous surf called the Race of Portland, where the tide flows with +unusual swiftness, and in the bordering cliffs are many romantic caves +where the restless waves make a constant plashing.</p> + + + +<h3>THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p422" id="p422"></a> +<img src="images/p422.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="CORBIÈRE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CORBIÈRE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>From the harbor of Portland we will make a steamer-excursion almost +across the English Channel, going about one hundred and fifteen miles to +the Channel Islands, off the north-western coast of France and within a +few miles of the shores of Normandy and Brittany. They are Jersey, +Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark, standing in a picturesque situation, with +a mild climate and fertile soil, and devoted mainly to dairying and to +fishing. These islands were known to the Romans, and their strategic +position is so valuable that England, while getting but $100,000 revenue +from them, has expended two or three millions annually in maintaining +their fortifications. It was upon the dangerous cluster of rocks west of +Alderney, and known as the Caskets, that Henry I.'s only son, Prince<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[Pg 422]</a></span> +William, perished in the twelfth century, and here the man-of-war +Victory was lost with eleven hundred men in 1744. Jersey is the most +remarkable of these islands for its castles and forts, and has seen many +fierce attacks. Both Henry VII. and Charles II. when in exile found +refuge in Jersey. In approaching this island the fantastic outline of +the Corbière Promontory on the western side is striking. When first seen +through the morning haze it resembles a huge elephant supporting an +embattled tower, but the apparition vanishes on closer approach. A +lighthouse crowns the rock, and the bay of St. Aubin spreads a grand +crescent of smiling shores, in the centre of which is Elizabeth Castle, +standing on a lofty insulated rock whose jagged pinnacles are reared in +grotesque array around the battlements. Within the bay is a safe harbor, +with the villages of St. Helier and St. Aubin on the shores. Here is the +hermitage once occupied by Jersey's patron saint Elericus, and an abbey +dedicated to him anciently occupied the site of the castle. The +impregnable works of the great Regent Fort are upon a precipitous hill +commanding the harbor and castle. Upon the eastern side of the island is +another huge fortress, called the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[Pg 423]</a></span> castle of Mont Orgueil, upon a lofty +conical rock forming the northern headland of Grouville Bay. The apex of +the mountain shoots up in the centre of the fortifications as high as +the flagstaff which is planted upon them. Here lived Charles II. when in +exile, and this is the most interesting part of Jersey, historically. A +part of the fortifications is said to date from Cæsar's incursion into +Gaul, and the Romans in honor of their leader called the island Cæsarea, +describing it at that time as a stronghold of the Druids, of whose +worship many monuments remain. It was first attached to the British +Crown at the Norman Conquest, and, though the French in the many wars +since then have sent frequent expeditions against the island, they have +never been able to hold it. The Channel Islands altogether cover about +seventy-five square miles. Alderney, which is within seven miles of the +French coast, now has an extensive harbor of refuge. Guernsey contains +the remains of two Norman castles—one almost entirely gone, and the +other called Ivy Castle, from its ruins being mantled with shrubbery. +Its great defensive work, Fort George, built in the last century, stands +in a commanding position and is of enormous strength. Upon a rocky islet +off St. Peter's Port is the chief defensive fort of that harbor, located +about a mile to seaward—Castle Cornet, a work of venerable antiquity, +parts of which were built by the Romans. In 1672, Viscount Christopher +Hatton was governor of Guernsey, and was blown up with his family in +Castle Cornet, the powder-magazine being struck by lightning at +midnight. He was in bed, was blown out of the window, and lay for some +time on the ramparts unhurt. Most of the family and attendants perished, +but his infant daughter Anne was found next day alive, and sleeping in +her cradle under a beam in the ruins, uninjured by the explosion. She +lived to marry the Earl of Winchelsea and have thirty children, of whom +thirteen survived her.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="p423" id="p423"></a> +<img src="images/p423.jpg" width="550" height="403" alt="VIEW FROM THE DEVIL'S HOLE, NEAR CORBIÈRE, JERSEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW FROM THE DEVIL'S HOLE, NEAR CORBIÈRE, JERSEY.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[Pg 424]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>THE SOUTHERN COAST OF DEVON.</h3> + +<p>Westward of Portland Isle, on the southern coast near Abbotsbury, are +the ruins of a monastery built by Canute, and St. Catharine's Chapel, +perched on a steep hill overlooking the sea, while in the neighborhood +is the Earl of Ilchester's castle, surrounded by attractive gardens. +Beyond this the little river Lym flows into the sea from among grand yet +broken crags mantled with woods, and in a deep valley at the foot of the +hills is the romantic town of Lyme Regis, with a pleasant beach and good +bathing, the force of the waves being broken by a pier called the Cobb, +frequently washed away and as often restored, sometimes at great cost. +This is a semicircular breakwater eleven hundred and seventy-nine feet +long, protecting the harbor. There are grand cliffs around this little +harbor, the Golden Cap and the Rhodehorn rearing their heads on high, +the summit of the latter being cut by a passage called the Devil's +Bellows. It was near Lyme Regis that on Christmas, 1839, the Dowlands +landslip took place, an area of forty acres sliding down the cliff to a +lower level, roughly removing two cottages and an orchard in the +descent. Five miles farther west the pretty river Axe, which flows down +from the Mendips, enters the sea, and on an eminence overlooking the +stream is the town of Axminster, formerly a Saxon stronghold, and +afterwards famous for the carpet manufacture, which some time ago was +removed to Wilton. Its minster was founded in the days of Æthelstan, but +the remains are Norman work. Still farther west the little river Sid +flows down past Sidbury and Sidford, and enters the sea through a valley +in which nestles the charming watering-place of Sidmouth, celebrated for +its pebbles found among the green sand. Salcombe Hill and High Peak, +towering five hundred feet, guard the valley-entrance on either hand, +and in the church of St. Nicholas is a memorial window erected by Queen +Victoria in memory of her father, the Duke of Kent, who died here in +1820. The esplanade in front of the town is protected by a sea-wall +seventeen hundred feet long. Near here, at Hayes Barton, now an +Elizabethan farm-house, Sir Walter Raleigh was born, the room in which +he first saw the light being still shown. Beyond this, to the westward, +the river Exe falls into the sea through a broad estuary at Exmouth, +also a favorite watering-place, over which the lofty Haldon Hills keep +guard at a height of eight hundred feet, the Beacon Walks being cut on +their sloping face and tastefully planted with trees, while a broad +esplanade protected by a sea-wall fronts the town. The shores all along +are dotted with villas, and this coast is a popular resort, the villages +gradually expanding into towns as their populations increase.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[Pg 425]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>EXETER.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p425" id="p425"></a> +<img src="images/p425.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="EXETER CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXETER CATHEDRAL, WEST FRONT.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> +<a name="p426-1" id="p426-1"></a> +<img src="images/p426-1.jpg" width="480" height="600" alt="RUINS OF ROUGEMONT CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF ROUGEMONT CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 391px;"> +<a name="p426-2" id="p426-2"></a> +<img src="images/p426-2.jpg" width="391" height="500" alt="OLD HOUSES IN THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES IN THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE.</span> +</div> + +<p>About eleven miles up the river Exe, before it has broadened out into +the estuary, but where it flows through a well-marked valley and washes +the bases of the cliffs, stands Exeter, a city set upon a hill. Here was +an ancient "dun," or British hill-fort, succeeded by a Roman, and then +by a Norman, castle, with the town descending upon the slope towards the +river and spreading into the suburb of St. Thomas on the other side. The +growing city now covers several neighboring hills and tributary valleys, +one of the flourishing new suburbs being named Pennsylvania. Upon the +ridge, where was located the old hill-fort, there still remain in a +grove of trees some scanty ruins of the Norman castle, while well up the +slope of the hill rise the bold and massive towers of Exeter Cathedral. +Unique among English municipalities, this is essentially a hill-city, +the ancient British name of Caerwise having been Latinized by the Romans +into Isca, and then changed to Exanceaster, which was afterwards +shortened into the modern Exeter. Nobody knows when it was founded: the +Romans almost at the beginning of the Christian era found a flourishing +British city alongside the Exe, and it is claimed to have been "a walled +city before the incarnation of Christ." Isca makes its appearance in the +Roman records without giving the date of its capture, while it is also +uncertain when the Saxons superseded the Romans and developed its name +into Exanceaster. They enclosed its hill of Rougemont, however, with a +wall of masonry, and encircled the city with ramparts built of square +stones and strengthened by towers. Here the Saxon king Æthelstan held a +meeting of the Witan of the whole realm and proclaimed his laws, and in +the first year of the eleventh century the Danes sailed up to the town +and attacked it, being, however, beaten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[Pg 426]</a></span> off after a desperate struggle. +Two years later they made another attack, captured and despoiled it; but +it rose from its ruins, and the townsmen afterwards defied the Norman as +they had the Dane. William attacked and breached the walls, the city +surrendered, and then he built Rougemont Castle, whose venerable ruins +remain, to curb the stout-hearted city. It was repeatedly besieged—in +the days of Stephen, Henry VII., and Henry VIII., the last siege during +the quarrels preceding the Reformation lasting thirty four days, the +defenders being reduced to eating horse-flesh. In the Civil War the +Royalists captured it from the Parliamentarians, who held it, and it +remained in the king's possession until after the defeat at Naseby, when +Cromwell recaptured it. Charles II. was proclaimed at Exeter with +special rejoicings. When William, Prince of Orange, first landed in +England, he came to the valley of the Teign, near Newton Abbot, where +the block of granite is still preserved from which his proclamation was +read to the people. Three days later he entered Exeter, escorted by a +great crowd of the townspeople. He went in military state to the +cathedral and mounted the bishop's throne, with its lofty spire-like +canopy, rich with the carving of the fifteenth century, while the choir +sang<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[Pg 427]</a></span> the Te Deum, after which Bishop Burnet read his proclamation. He +remained several days in Exeter, while events ripened elsewhere for his +reception. Here many Englishmen of rank and influence joined him, and +his quarters began to display the appearance of a court. The daily show +of rich liveries and of coaches drawn by six horses among the old houses +in the cathedral close, with their protruding bow-windows and balconies, +gave the usually quiet place a palatial appearance, the king's +audience-chamber being in the deanery. He remained here two weeks, and +then left for London, the entire kingdom having risen in his favor and +James having deserted the capital for Salisbury. This ended Exeter's +stirring history. It afterwards grew in fame as a manufactory of +woollens, but this has declined, and the chief industries now consist in +the making of gloves and agricultural implements.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/p427.jpg" width="600" height="414" alt="EXETER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH-WEST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXETER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p427" id="p427"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">1. STUDLAND CHURCH. 2. RUINS OF OLD CROSS IN THE +CHURCHYARD.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p427.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:260px; height:100px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:320px;"> </div> + + + + +<p>Exeter Cathedral is the most conspicuous feature in the view upon +approaching the city, rising well above the surrounding houses, its two +massive gray towers giving it something of the appearance of a fortress. +This feature makes it unique among English cathedrals, especially as the +towers form its transepts. The close is contracted, and around it are +business edifices instead of ecclesiastical buildings. The exterior is +plain and simple in outline, excepting the western front, which is a +very rich example of fourteenth-century Gothic. A church is said to have +been standing on its site and dedicated to the Benedictines as early as +the seventh century, and it lasted until after the Norman Conquest. The +Normans built a new church in the twelfth century, which con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[Pg 428]</a></span>tained the +present towers, but the remainder of the structure was afterwards +transformed as we now see it. The rich western façade consists of three +stages, receding one behind the other; the lower is the porch, +subdivided into three enriched arcades containing figures and pierced by +three doorways. The second stage is formed above this by the ends of the +nave and side-aisles, being terminated with a battlement flanked by +small pinnacles about halfway up the nave gable. A fine window pierces +this stage, and above it the remainder of the gable forms the third +stage, also pierced by a window which opens over the battlement. The +figures in the lower stage represent the kings of England, apostles, and +saints. The interior of the nave discloses stone vaulting and Decorated +architecture, with large clerestory windows, but a small triforium. The +bosses of the roof, which presents an unbroken line, are seventy feet +above the floor. One of the bays on the north side of the triforium is a +beautiful minstrels' gallery, communicating with a chamber above the +porch. The inner walls of the towers have been cut away, completely +adapting them for transepts, the towers being supported on great pointed +arches. In the large east window the stained glass commemorates St. +Sidwell, a lady murdered in the eighth century at a well near Exeter by +a blow from a scythe at the instigation of her stepmother, who coveted +her property. The cathedral is rich in monumental relics, and it has +recently been thoroughly restored. Little remains of the ancient +convent-buildings beyond the chapter-house, which adjoins the south +transept.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 269px;"> +<a name="p428" id="p428"></a> +<img src="images/p428.jpg" width="269" height="500" alt="THE THRONE, EXETER CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE THRONE, EXETER CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>The older parts of Exeter present a quaint and picturesque appearance, +especially along the High Street, where is located the old Guild Hall, a +pon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[Pg 429]</a></span>derous stone building, with a curious front projecting over the +footway and supported by columns; it was built in the sixteenth century. +Sir Thomas Bodley, who founded the Bodleian Library of Oxford, was born +in Exeter, and also Richard Hooker the theologian. Among its famous +bishops was Trelawney (then the Bishop of Bristol), who was one of the +seven bishops committed by King James to the Tower, and whose memory +still lives in the West-Country refrain, the singing of which had so +much to do with raising the English revolt in favor of the Prince of +Orange:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"And shall Trelawney die?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And shall Trelawney die?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There's twenty thousand Cornish lads</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Will know the reason why."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p429-1" id="p429-1"></a> +<img src="images/p429-1.jpg" width="450" height="330" alt="THE MINSTRELS' GALLERY, EXETER CATHEDRAL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MINSTRELS' GALLERY, EXETER CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 464px;"> +<a name="p429-2" id="p429-2"></a> +<img src="images/p429-2.jpg" width="464" height="600" alt="THE GUILD HALL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GUILD HALL.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>TEIGNMOUTH AND TORBAY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p430" id="p430"></a> +<img src="images/p430.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="BABBICOMBE BAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BABBICOMBE BAY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 436px;"> +<a name="p431" id="p431"></a> +<img src="images/p431.jpg" width="436" height="600" alt="ANSTIS COVE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANSTIS COVE.</span> +</div> + +<p>From the estuary of the Exe the Devonshire coast trends almost southward +towards the mouth of the Dart, being everywhere bordered by picturesque +cliffs. Nestling in a gap among the crags, under the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[Pg 430]</a></span> protecting shelter +of the headlands, is the little watering-place of Dawlish, fronted by +villas and flower-gardens, and having to the southward strange pinnacles +of red rock rising from the edge of the sea, two of them forming a +fanciful resemblance to the human figure, being named the Parson and the +Clerk. A storm recently knocked off a considerable part of the Parson's +head. Upon their sides, piercing through tunnel after tunnel, runs the +railway almost over the water's edge. Soon the cliffs are breached with +a wider opening, and here flows out the river Teign, where is the larger +watering-place of Teignmouth, which has frequently suffered from Danish +and French invasions, but is now best known by having the longest wooden +bridge in England spanning the river-estuary and extending seventeen +hundred feet, with a swing-draw to permit vessels to pass. The valley is +broad, with picturesque villas on either bank. Below Teignmouth the +shores project into the sea at the bold promontory of Hope's Nose, which +has Torbay on one side and Babbicombe Bay on the other. Here, around the +shores of the bay on the southern side of the projecting cape, is the +renowned watering-place of Torquay, which has grown enormously since it +has become such a fashionable resort in recent years. Its beautiful +scenery and sheltered position have made it a favorite home for +invalids. Its name is derived from the neighboring hill of Mohun's Tor, +where there are ruins of an abbey. To the north of the headland is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[Pg 431]</a></span> +fine sweep of Babbicombe Bay, with a border of smooth sand beach backed +by steep cliffs, above which is the plateau where most of its villas are +built. To the south of the headland Torquay spreads around a fine park, +with highlands protecting it on almost all sides, while farther to the +southward the limestone cliffs are bold and lofty, one of them +presenting the singular feature of a natural arch called London Bridge, +where the sea has pierced the extremity of a headland. Upon the eastern +face of the promontory of Hope's Nose, and just below Babbicombe Bay, +another pretty cove has been hollowed out by the action of the waves, +its sides being densely clothed with foliage, while a pebbly beach +fringes the shore. This is Anstis Cove, its northern border guarded by +limestone cliffs that have been broken at their outer verge into pointed +reefs. Compton Castle, about two miles from Torbay, is a specimen, +though in ruins, of the ancient fortified mansion of the reign of Edward +III. It is of massive construction, built of the native limestone, and +part of it is now used as a farm-house. Following around the +deeply-recessed curve of Torbay, its southern boundary is found to be +the bold promontory of Berry Head, and here on the northern side is the +old fishing-port of Brixham, having Church Brixham built up on the +cliffs and Brixham Quay down on the beach.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[Pg 432]</a></span> It was here that the Prince +of Orange landed in 1688, and a monument in the market-place +commemorates the event, the identical block of stone on which he first +stepped being preserved.</p> + + + +<h3>THE DART.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p432" id="p432"></a> +<img src="images/p432.jpg" width="650" height="265" alt="TOTNES, FROM THE RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TOTNES, FROM THE RIVER.</span> +</div> + +<p>Southward of this promontory is the estuary of the Dart, a river which, +like nearly all the streams of Devonshire, rises in that great "mother +of rivers," Dartmoor, whence come the Tawe and the Teign, of which we +have already spoken, and also the Torridge, the Yealm, the Erme, the +Plym, and the Avon (still another of them). This celebrated moor covers +an area of about one hundred and thirty thousand acres, stretching +thirty-three miles in length and twenty-two miles in breadth, and its +elevation averages seventeen hundred feet, though some of its tors, the +enormous rocks of granite crowning its hills, rise considerably higher, +the loftiest of these, the Yes Tor, near Okehampton, being two thousand +and fifty feet high. The moor is composed of vast stretches of bog and +stunted heather, with plenty of places where peat is cut, and having its +streams filled with trout. Legend tells us that all manner of hill-and +water-spirits frequent this desolate yet attractive region, and that in +Cranmore Pool and its surrounding bogs, whence the Dart takes its rise, +there dwelt the "pixies" and the "kelpies." The head-fountains of both +the Dart and the Plym are surrounded with romance, as the cities at +their mouths are famous in English history, and Spenser, in the <i>Faerie +Queene</i>, announces that both Dart and Plym were present at the great +feast of the rivers which celebrated the wedding of the Thames and +Medway. The courses of the Dartmoor rivers are short, but with rapid +changes. In the moorland they run through moss and over granite; then +among woods and cultivated fields, till, with constantly broadening +stream, the river joins the estuary or tidal inlet, and thus finds its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[Pg 433]</a></span> +vent in the ocean. Strangely enough, with these short streams there are +high points on the Dartmoor tors from which both source and mouth of a +river are visible at the same time. The Dart, with steadily-increasing +flow, thus runs out of the moorland, and not far from its edge passes +the antique town of Totnes, where the remains of an ivy-mantled wall +upon the hill is all that is left of Judhael's famous castle, which +dates from the Norman Conquest. The surrounding country is remarkably +picturesque, and is noted for its agricultural wealth. About two miles +to the eastward is the romantic ruin of Berry Pomeroy Castle, founded +upon a rock which rises almost perpendicularly from a narrow valley, +through which a winding brook bubbles. It is overhung with foliage and +shrubbery and mantled with moss and ivy, so that it is most attractive. +The great gate, the southern walls, part of a quadrangle, and a few +turrets are all that remain of the castle, which suffered severely in +the Civil War. Tradition states that the adjacent village was destroyed +by lightning. This castle also dates from the Norman Conquest, and +passed from its original possessors, the Pomeroys, to Protector +Somerset, the Duke of Somerset being the present owner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p433" id="p433"></a> +<img src="images/p433.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="BERRY POMEROY CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BERRY POMEROY CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p434-1" id="p434-1"></a> +<img src="images/p434-1.jpg" width="600" height="318" alt="A BEND OF THE DART." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A BEND OF THE DART.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p434-2" id="p434-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p434-2.jpg" width="450" height="386" alt="DARTMOUTH CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DARTMOUTH CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p><br />The Dart, which is a rocky stream above Totnes and a favorite resort of +the fisherman and sketcher, becomes navigable below the town, and has a +soft, peculiar beauty of its own that has made it often compared to the +Rhine; but there is little comparison between them: the Dart has no +precipitous cliffs or vine-clad hills, and no castle excepting at its +mouth. From Totnes to Dartmouth is about twelve miles, through +exquisitely beautiful scenery, especially where the river passes the +woods of Sharpham, the current narrowing to about one hundred and fifty +feet, and flowing through an amphitheatre of overarching trees rising in +masses of foliage to the height of several hundred feet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[Pg 434]</a></span> The stream +makes various sharp bends—a paradise for the artist—and finally it +broadens out into an estuary like an inland lake, with a view over the +intervening neck of land to Torbay, and beyond the coast-line at Exmouth +and towards Portland. Thus we come to Dartmouth, the old houses built +tier above tier on a steep hill running up from the harbor, while at the +extreme point of the promontory, guarding the entrance to the estuary, +is the little church of St. Petrox, with its armorial gallery and ruins +of an ancient manor house, and the castle, consisting of a square and a +round tower, coming down from Henry VII.'s reign, when it was built for +coast-defence. On the opposite point of the harbor-entrance are the +foundations of another castle, evidently built about the same time. +Dartmouth in early times was a port of great importance, and Edward III. +first gave it a charter under the name of Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardness. +Its merchants were then numerous and wealthy, and Cœur de Leon's +crusaders assembled their fleet in the harbor in 1190. The French +destroyed both it and Plymouth in 1377, and in 1403 the two towns, +combining, ravaged the French coasts and burned forty ships. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">[Pg 435]</a></span> French +retaliated the next year, but Dartmouth was too much for them, killing +Du Chastel, the commander, and defeating his expedition. It suffered +severely in the Civil War, and there are still traces of the +land-fastenings of the iron chain stretched across the harbor to keep +out the French.</p> + + + +<h3>THE PLYM.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;"> +<a name="p435" id="p435"></a> +<img src="images/p435.jpg" width="374" height="600" alt="THE DEWERSTONE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DEWERSTONE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"> +<a name="p437" id="p437"></a> +<img src="images/p437.jpg" width="254" height="500" alt="OLD DOORWAY, AUGUSTINIAN PRIORY. PLYMPTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD DOORWAY, AUGUSTINIAN PRIORY. PLYMPTON.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p436" id="p436"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p436.jpg" width="450" height="442" alt="IN BICKLEIGH VALE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">IN BICKLEIGH VALE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Westward of the valley of the Dart is the valley of the Plym, also +flowing out of Dartmoor. Two streams known as the Cad and the Mew join +to form this river, and though they are of about equal importance, the +source of the Cad is generally regarded as the true Plym head, while a +crossing upon it is known as the Plym Steps. Both are rocky, dashing +mountain-streams, and such are also the characteristics of the Plym +after the junction until it enters its estuary. The Plym Head is within +the royal forest of Dartmoor, about twelve hundred feet above the sea, +and in the wild and lonely moorland. The stream flows by the flat summit +of Sheeps Tor, one of the chief peaks on the southern border of the +moor. Here in a hollow formed by overhanging rocks one of the Royalist +Elfords, whose house was under the tor, sought refuge, and amused his +solitude by painting the walls of the cavern, which is known as the +"Pixies' House," and is regarded by the neighbors as a dangerous place +for children, to whom these little fairies sometimes take a fancy. It is +not safe, they say, to go near it without dropping a pin as an offering +between the chinks of the rock—not a very costly way of buying +immunity. In Sheeps Tor churchyard in the valley below lies Sir James +Brooke, Rajah of Sarawak, who died near there in 1868. As the streams +course down the hillside they disclose frequent traces of the rude stone +relics left there by an ancient people, the chief being the settlement +at Trowlesworthy, where there is a circular hut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[Pg 436]</a></span> enclosure about four +hundred feet in diameter, with stone avenues leading to it and the +entrances defended by portions of walls. The stones are nowhere large, +however, rarely exceeding five feet high. Then we come to Shaugh, where +the rivers struggle through rocky ravines and finally join their waters. +The little Shaugh church crowns the granite rocks on one side, while on +the other is the towering crag of the Dewerstone. This ivy-clad rock, +which lifts its furrowed and wrinkled battlements far above the Plym, +was the "Rock of Tiw," that powerful god of the Saxons from whom comes +the name of Tuesday. Once, we are told, in the deep snow traces of a +human foot and a cloven hoof were found ascending to the highest point +of the rock, which His Satanic Majesty seems to have claimed for his own +domain. From this lofty outpost of the moor, if he stayed there, our +all-time enemy certainly had a wide lookout. On the one hand is a grand +solitude, and on the other a hilly country stretches to the seaboard, +with the river-valley winding through woods and fields, and Plymouth +Sound and its breakwater in the distance. Here, below the junction of +the two streams, are the scant remains of the old house of Grenofen, +whose inmates lived in great state, and were the Slannings who so +ardently supported King Charles. A mossy barn with massive gables is the +prominent feature of the ruins. The river runs down through the very +beautiful vale of Bickleigh, and then under Plym Bridge, where it +becomes broader and more tranquil as it approaches the head of the +estuary. This region belonged to the priory of Plympton, and its +Augustinian owners raised at the end of the bridge a small chapel where +the traveller might pause for prayer before venturing into the solitudes +beyond. The remains of this structure, however, are now slight. At +Plympton St. Mary was the priory, and at Plympton Earl the castle of the +Earls of Devon, a brook flowing between them to the river. Both stand +near the head of the estuary, and are in ruins. The priory was the +wealthiest monastic house in Devon, but the castle was only important as +the head-quarters of Plymouth's Royalist besiegers in the Civil War. The +priory was the nurse of the noted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[Pg 437]</a></span> port of Plymouth, and its earlier +beginnings can be traced to the fostering care of the Augustinians, who +developed the fishing-town that subsequently became the powerful +seaport. Plympton, the old rhyme tells us, was "a borough-town" when +Plymouth was little else than a "a furzy down." The priory was founded +in the twelfth century, and was long patronized by the neighboring Earls +of Devon. The Augustinians, legend says, were the first to cultivate the +apple in Devonshire, and the ruins still disclose the moss-grown +"apple-garth." Little remains of the monastery beyond the old refectory +doorway and walls. The town of Plympton Maurice is in the valley near +by, famous as the birthplace of Sir Joshua Reynolds in 1723, but the +house has been swept away, though the grammar-school in which his father +taught remains. Reynolds is said to have made good use of the +recollections of the grand scenery around his birthplace in furnishing +landscape backgrounds for his pictures. The town afterwards elected him +mayor, though he rarely visited his birthplace, but in lieu sent the +corporation his portrait painted by himself. Here begins the broad +estuary known as the Laira, at the mouth of which stands Plymouth, the +town covering the land between the Laira and the Hamoaze, the estuary of +the Tamar, with its adjoining suburbs of Stonehouse and Devonport. Here +are now a population of two hundred thousand, while the station is of +vast importance as a government dockyard and barracks, with a chain of +strong protecting fortifications for defence from attacks both by sea +and land. Along the southern bank of the estuary extend the woods of +Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley. Then we come to Catwater Haven, +crowded with merchant-ships, and the older harbor of Sutton Pool. Mount +Batten on one side and Citadel Point on the other guard the entrance to +the haven. It was here that the English fleet awaited the Armada in +1588; that Essex gathered his expedition to conquer Cadiz in 1596; and +from here sailed the <i>Mayflower</i> with the Pilgrim Fathers in 1620. +Plymouth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[Pg 438]</a></span> harbor's maritime and naval history is, however, interwoven +with that of England.</p> + + + +<h3>PLYMOUTH.</h3> + +<p>The port of Plymouth comprises what are called the "Three +Towns"—Plymouth proper, covering about a square mile, Stonehouse, and +Devonport, where the great naval dockyard is located. Plymouth Sound is +an estuary of the English Channel, and receives the Plym at its +north-eastern border and the Tamar at its north-western, the sound being +about three miles square and protected by the great breakwater a mile +long, with a lighthouse, and defended by forts. The Plym broadens into +the Catwater, used as a haven for merchant-vessels and transports and +capable of furnishing anchorage to a thousand ships at one time. The +Tamar broadens into the Hamoaze, which is the naval harbor, and is four +miles long, with sufficient anchorage-ground for the entire British +navy. Sutton Pool is a tidal harbor now used by merchant-vessels. The +coasts of Plymouth Sound are rocky and abrupt, and strong fortresses +frown at every entrance. It is the naval dockyard that gives Plymouth +its chief importance: this is at Devonport, which is strongly fortified +by breastworks, ditches, embankments, and heavy batteries. The great +dockyard encloses an area of ninety-six acres and has thirty-five +hundred feet of water-frontage. There are here five docks and also +building-slips, where the great British war-ships are constructed. +Another enclosure of seventy-two acres at Point Keyham is used for +repairing ships, and a canal seventy feet wide runs through the yards to +facilitate the movement of materials. Immense roofs cover the docks. +East of Devonport, divided from it by a creek, and adjoining Plymouth, +is Stonehouse. Here are the great victualling yard, marine barracks, and +naval hospital. The Royal William Victualling Yard occupies fourteen +acres on a tongue of land at the mouth of the Tamar, and cost $7,500,000 +to build. Here the stores are kept and naval supplies furnished, its +great features being the vast government bakehouse, the cooperage, and +the storehouses. Its front is protected by a redoubt, and to the +eastward are the tasteful grounds of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe's winter +villa. The marine barracks, which have the finest mess-room in England, +will accommodate fifteen hundred men; the naval hospital, northward of +Stonehouse, will furnish beds for twelve hundred. There are three +thousand men employed about these great docks and stores, and they form +the most extensive naval establishment in the world. Near Mount Wise are +the Raglan Barracks, where there is a display of cannon taken from the +Turks.</p> + +<p>In Plymouth Sound is a bold pyramidal rock, the Isle of St. Nicholas, +which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[Pg 439]</a></span> is a formidable fortress. Mount Edgcumbe is on the western shore, +and on the eastern side is Plymouth's pretty park, known as the Hoe, +where the old Eddystone Lighthouse will be set up. Having come down the +Plym, we will now ascend the Tamar, past the huge docks and stores, and +about five miles above see the great Albert Bridge, which carries a +railway, at a height of one hundred feet, from the hills of Devon over +to those of Cornwall on the western shore. It is built on nineteen +arches, two broad ones of four hundred and fifty-five feet span each +bridging the river, the entire structure being two thousand two hundred +and forty feet long. Out in the English Channel, fourteen miles from +Plymouth, is its famous beacon—the Eddystone Lighthouse. Here +Winstanley perished in the earlier lighthouse that was swept away by the +terrible storm of 1703, and here Smeaton built his great lighthouse in +1759, one hundred feet high, which has recently been superseded by the +new lighthouse. The Eddystone Rocks consist of twenty-two gneiss reefs +extending about six hundred and fifty feet, in front of the entrance to +Plymouth Sound. Smeaton's lighthouse, modelled after the trunk of a +sturdy oak in Windsor Park, became the model for all subsequent +lighthouses. It is as firm to-day as when originally built, but the reef +on which it rests has been undermined and shattered by the joint action +of the waves and the leverage of the tall stone column, against which +the seas strike with prodigious force, causing it to vibrate like the +trunk of a tree in a storm. The foundation-stone of the new lighthouse +was laid on a reef one hundred and twenty-seven feet south of the old +one in 1878. It is built of granite and rises one hundred and +thirty-eight feet above the rock, its light being visible seventeen +miles: it was first lighted May 18, 1882.</p> + + + +<h3>TAVISTOCK.</h3> + +<p>A short distance up the Tamar it receives its little tributary the Tavy, +running through a deep ravine, and on its banks are the ruins of +Tavistock Abbey, founded in the tenth century and dedicated to St. Mary. +Orgarius, the Earl of Devonshire, was admonished in a dream to build it, +but his son Ordulph finished it. He was of great strength and gigantic +stature, could break down gates and stride across a stream ten feet +wide. They still preserve, we are told, some of Ordulph's huge bones in +Tavistock Church. The Danes plundered and burned the abbey, but it was +rebuilt in greater splendor, and its abbot sat in the House of Peers. +When it was disestablished, like Woburn it fell to Lord Russell, and it +is now owned by the Duke of Bedford. The remains of the grand +establishment, however, are but scanty, and its best memory is that of +the printing-press set up by the monks, which was the second press +established in England. The Duke of Bedford's attractive villa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[Pg 440]</a></span> of +Endsleigh is near Tavistock, and a short distance south of the town is +Buckland Abbey, built on the river-bank by the Countess of Devon in the +thirteenth century. This was the home of Sir Francis Drake, and is still +held by his descendants. Drake was born in a modest cottage on the banks +of the Tavy about the year 1539. North of Tavistock, on the little river +Lyd, are the ruins of Lydford Castle, surrounded by a village of rude +cottages. Here originated the "law of Lydford," a proverb expressive of +hasty judgment:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"First hang and draw,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then hear the cause by Lydford law."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>One chronicler accounts for this proverb by the wretched state of the +castle jail, in which imprisonment was worse than death. At Lydford is a +remarkable chasm where a rude arch is thrown across an abyss, at the +bottom of which, eighty feet below, the Lyd rattles along in its +contracted bed. This is a favorite place for suicides, and the tale is +still told of a benighted horseman, caught in a heavy storm, who spurred +his horse along the road at headlong speed to seek shelter in the +village. Next day it was found that the storm had swept the bridge away, +and the rider shuddered to think how his horse on that headlong ride +through the tempest had leaped over the abyss without his knowing it.</p> + + + +<h3>THE NORTHERN COAST OF DEVON.</h3> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p441" id="p441"></a> +<img src="images/p441.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF DUNSTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF DUNSTER.</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="p440" id="p440"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">MINEHEAD.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p440.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:300px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:380px; height:70px;"> </div> + +<p><br />Exmoor is a broad strip of almost mountainous moorland extending through +the northern borders of Somerset and Devon and down to the coast of +Bristol Channel. Its hills descend precipitously to the sea, so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">[Pg 441]</a></span> that +only small brooks flow northward from them, excepting the Lyn, which +manages to attain the dignity of a river by flowing for some distance +among the hills parallel to the coast. It was but recently that good +roads were constructed across this lonely moor, and on its northern +edge, where the craggy headland of Greenaleigh is thrust out into the +sea, is the harbor of Minehead, with a little fishing-village skirting +its shores. A short distance inland, and seated at the bases of the +steep Brendon Hills, which rise in sharp wooded slopes above its houses, +is the little market-town of Dunster. On an outlying hill, projecting +from the mass, the original lord of Dunster built his castle, perching +it upon a rocky crag that Nature herself designed for a fortress. The +Saxons called it their "Hill-tower." Its picturesque mass of buildings +is of various dates, but much more modern than their early day, most of +the present structure having been built in Queen Elizabeth's reign. The +castle was held for King Charles in the Civil War, and besieged by the +Parliamentary troops, whose commander sent this bloodthirsty message to +its governor: "If you will deliver up the castle, you shall have fair +quarter: if not, expect no mercy: your mother shall be in front to +receive the first fury of your cannon." The governor promptly and +bravely replied, "If you do what you threaten, you do the most barbarous +and villainous act that was ever done. My mother I honor, but the cause +I fight for and the masters I serve are God and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">[Pg 442]</a></span> king.—Mother, do +you forgive me, and give me your blessing, and let the rebels answer for +spilling that blood of yours, which I would save with the loss of mine +own if I had enough for both my master and yourself." The mother also +without hesitation answered him: "Son, I forgive thee, and pray God to +bless thee, for this brave resolution. If I live I shall love thee the +better for it: God's will be done!" Whether the atrocious threat would +have been put into execution was never decided, for a strong Royalist +force soon appeared, routing the besiegers, capturing a thousand of +them, and releasing the lady. But the castle was soon afterwards taken +for the Parliament by Colonel Blake, subsequently the admiral. It was +then demolished, and now the summit of the flat-topped hill, where +formerly was the keep, is devoted to the peaceful amusement of a +bowling-green, from which there are exquisite views of the Brendon Hills +and far away over the Bristol Channel to the distant coast of Wales. It +was at Dunster Castle that William Prynne was shut up a prisoner by +Cromwell. Prynne had been pilloried, shorn of his ears, and imprisoned +by King Charles I. for his denunciations of the court, and then +indulging in the same criticism of the Protector, he was confined at +Dunster. It is now the head-quarters for those who love the exciting +pleasures of stag-hunting on Exmoor.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p442" id="p442"></a> +<img src="images/p442.jpg" width="600" height="341" alt="ON PORLOCK MOOR—THE ROAD TO OARE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ON PORLOCK MOOR—THE ROAD TO OARE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p443" id="p443"></a> +<img src="images/p443.jpg" width="600" height="472" alt="THE DOONE VALLEY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DOONE VALLEY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Journeying westward over the hills from Minehead, which is just now +endeavoring, though with only partial success, to convert itself into a +fashionable watering-place, Dunkery Beacon is seen raising its head +inland—a brown, heathy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">[Pg 443]</a></span> moorland elevated seventeen hundred feet above +the sea. There is a grand panorama disclosed from its summit, though it +is a toilsome ascent to get up there and overlook the fifteen counties +it can display. Far below is the level shore of Porlock Bay, with the +little village set in at the base of the cliffs. Here Southey was +sheltered at its inn, and wrote a sonnet while he was "by the unwelcome +summer rain detained;" and here the village has slept ever since the +Danes harried and Harold burned it. Then the road climbs laboriously up +the hill again to Porlock Moor, and as the top is reached, far away is +seen a little grassy basin running like a streak off towards the +north-west, and enclosed by steep hills, in which it is ultimately lost. +This is the valley of the Lyn, and joining it is another little glen, +with a hamlet of white cottages at the junction: this is the Oare +valley, the centre of some of the most stirring traditions of Exmoor, +embodied in Blackmore's novel of <i>Lorna Doone</i>. Two centuries ago a +lawless clan established themselves in this lonely glen, from which +issues the Bagworthy Water not far away from the little village of Oare. +Here was Jan Ridd's farm, and near it the cataract of the Bagworthy +Water-slide, while above this cataract, in the recesses of Doone Glen, +was the robbers' home, whence they issued to plunder the neighboring +country. The novel tells how Jan Ridd, who was of herculean strength, +was standing with his bride Lorna at the altar of the little church in +Oare when a bullet wounded her. Out rushed Jan from the presence of his +wife, dead as he thought, to pursue<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">[Pg 444]</a></span> the murderer. He was unarmed, and +rode after him over the moorland, tearing from an oak a mighty bough as +he passed under it. To this day the rent in "Jan Ridd's tree" is shown. +Then came the struggle, and an Exmoor bog swallowed up the murderer, who +was the last of the robber chieftains; and afterwards the bride +recovered and the happy pair were united. Exmoor is the only place +remaining in the kingdom where the wild stag is still hunted with +hounds, the season being in the early autumn, when all the inns are +crowded, and on the day of a "meet" all the country seems alive.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p444-1" id="p444-1"></a> +<img src="images/p444-1.jpg" width="650" height="250" alt="BAGWORTHY WATER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BAGWORTHY WATER.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 461px;"> +<a name="p444-2" id="p444-2"></a> +<img src="images/p444-2.jpg" width="461" height="600" alt="JAN RIDD'S TREE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">JAN RIDD'S TREE.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p445-2" id="p445-2"></a> +<img src="images/p445-2.jpg" width="600" height="500" alt="CASTLE ROCK, LYNTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CASTLE ROCK, LYNTON.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p446-1" id="p446-1"></a> +<img src="images/p446-1.jpg" width="600" height="433" alt="THE DEVIL'S CHEESE-RING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DEVIL'S CHEESE-RING.</span> +</div> + + + +<p><a name="p446-2" id="p446-2"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 373px;"> +<img src="images/p446-2.jpg" width="373" height="450" alt="TOWER ON THE BEACH, LYNMOUTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TOWER ON THE BEACH, LYNMOUTH.</span> +</div> + + + +<p><a name="p445-1" id="p445-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p445-1.jpg" width="450" height="393" alt="VIEW ON THE EAST LYN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW ON THE EAST LYN.</span> +</div> + +<p>From Oare the valley of the Lyn can be followed down to the sea, flowing +through its wooded gorge and disclosing many pretty views. It runs +rapidly over the rocks, and, when at last seeking the sea, the little +stream manages to escape out of the hills that have so long encompassed +it, we again find coupled together an upper and a lower town—Lynton, +perched hundreds of feet above on the crags, and Lynmouth, down by the +water's edge, both in grandly picturesque locations. Crowded between the +bases of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">[Pg 445]</a></span> the crags and the pebbly beach is the irregular line of old +cottages beside the bubbling stream, with creeping vines climbing over +their walls and thatched roofs, while beyond is thrust out the ancient +pier that made the port of Lynmouth. Up on the crags, with houses +nestling here in nooks and perched there upon cliffs, Lynton mounts by +zigzag paths, until, on a rocky terrace above, it gets room to spread +into a straggling street. The two streams called the East and West Lyn +unite here before seeking the sea, and join their currents at the edge +of the town. Here they leap over the boulders:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">[Pg 446]</a></span></p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Cool and clear, cool and clear,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By shining shingle and foaming weir,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under the crag where the ouzel sings,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the ivied wall where the church-bell rings."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Southey rapturously described the East Lyn Vale as the "finest spot, +except Cintra and Arrabida, that I ever saw." It is like a miniature +glen in the Alps or the Pyrenees, and every turn in the road up to the +Waters-meet, where the Brendon joins the Lyn, discloses new beauties. It +is an exquisite combination of wood, rock, and stream that baffles all +description. Gentle flowers grow here to luxuriant perfection, protected +from all chilling blasts and with ample moisture to assist the sunshine +in their cultivation. But barely a mile east of Lynton on the coast +there is told a different story: there is a valley of rocks, where +between two ridges of hills the vale is covered with stones and almost +completely laid bare, a terrific mass of boulders, the very skeleton of +the earth. Overhanging the sea is the gigantic "Castle Rock," while +facing it from the inland<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">[Pg 447]</a></span> side, at an elbow of the valley, is a queer +pile of crags known as the "Devil's Cheese-Ring." From the castle is a +view over the sea and of the romantic towns, with the little river +flowing alongside and the tower on Lynmouth beach, while far westward +the moorland spreads away towards those other romantic spots, Ilfracombe +and Clovelly.</p> + + + +<h3>COMBE MARTIN AND ILFRACOMBE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p447" id="p447"></a> +<img src="images/p447.jpg" width="600" height="478" alt="ILFRACOMBE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ILFRACOMBE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Let us skirt along the precipitous Devonshire coast westward from the +Lyn, where the cliffs rise high and abruptly from the water, with +foliage on the hills above them and sheep browsing like little white +specks beyond. Thus Exmoor is prolonged westward in a broad and lofty +ridge of undulating hills, through which a stream occasionally carves +its devious course in a deep and sheltered valley that comes out to the +sea between bold, rocky headlands. Far out over the sea loom up the +coasts of Wales in purple clouds. Soon in a breach in the wall of crags +we find Combe Martin, its houses dotted among the gardens and orchards +clustering thickly around the red stone church. Here were silver-mines +long ago, and here lived Martin of Tours, to whom William the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">[Pg 448]</a></span> Conqueror +granted the manor which to this day bears his name. The neighboring +hills grow the best hemp in Devon, and the crags guarding the harbor are +known as the Great and Little Hangman, the former, which is the higher, +standing behind the other. The local tradition says that once a fellow +who had stolen a sheep was carrying the carcase home on his back, having +tied the hind legs together around his neck. He paused for breath at the +top of the hill, and, resting against a projecting slab, poised the +carcase on the top, when it suddenly slipped over and garroted him. He +was afterwards found dead, and thus named the hills. Near here was born, +in 1522, Bishop Jewel of Salisbury, of whom it is recorded by that +faithful biographer Fuller that he "wrote learnedly, preached painfully, +lived piously, died peacefully." To the westward are Watersmouth, with +its natural arch in the slaty rocks bordering the sea, and Hillsborough +rising boldly to guard a tiny cove. Upon this precipitous headland is an +ancient camp, and it overlooks Ilfracombe, the chief watering-place of +the northern Devonshire coast. Here a smart new town has rapidly +developed, with paths cut upon the cliffs and encroachments made along +the shore. High upon a pyramidal headland stands the ancient chapel +where in the olden time the forefathers of the village prayed to St. +Nicholas for deliverance from shipwreck. Now a lighthouse is relied on +for this service. The promontory is connected with a still bolder and +loftier headland, the Capstone Rock. The town is built on the slope of +the hills overlooking these huge round-topped crags, but its streets do +not run down to sand-beaches. There is little but rocks on the shore and +reefs in the water, worn into ridges of picturesque outline, over which +the surf breaks grandly in time of storm. We are told that in a cave +near by, Sir William Tracy, one of the murderers of St. Thomas à Becket +at Canterbury, concealed himself while waiting to escape from England. +He and his accomplices were ordered to purge themselves by a pilgrimage +to the Holy Land, but Tracy was not able to accomplish it. The winds of +heaven always drove him back whenever he tried to embark, for he had +struck the first blow at Becket. He was buried in Morthoe Church beyond +Ilfracombe.</p> + + + +<h3>MORTE POINT AND BIDEFORD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p449" id="p449"></a> +<img src="images/p449.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="MORTE POINT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MORTE POINT.</span> +</div> + +<p>A few miles westward the coast-line suddenly bends to the southward, the +angle being marked by a wild, rocky headland known as Morte Point, which +the Devonshire proverb describes as "the place on earth which Heaven +made last and the devil will take first." It is a chaos of rock-ridges, +the sea washing against it on three sides, and is a noted place for +wrecks. Far out at sea can be seen a half-submerged black rock which the +Normans christened the Morte<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">[Pg 449]</a></span> Stone, or "Death Rock." To the southward +sweeps a fringe of yellow sand around Morte Bay, and behind the headland +is the little village of Morthoe, where Tracy is buried. Beyond the +boundary of the bay, at Baggy Point, is another and broader bay, whose +shores make a grand sweep to the westward again. This is Barnstaple Bay, +into which flows a wide estuary forming the outlet of two rivers: the +northernmost is the Taw, and at the head of its estuary is Barnstaple. +The other is the Torridge, and upon it, at about nine miles distance +from Barnstaple, is the small but prettier town of Bideford. This is +described by Kingsley as a little white town, sloping upward from its +broad tidal river, paved with yellow sands, and having a many-arched old +bridge towards the uplands to the westward. The wooded hills close in +above the town, but in front, where the rivers join, they sink into a +hazy level of marsh and low undulations of sand. The town has stood +almost as it is now since Grenvil, the cousin of William the Conqueror, +founded it. It formerly enjoyed great commercial prosperity under the +patronage of the Grenvilles, reaching its height in the seventeenth +century. The old quay remains. The ancient bridge, which is a remarkable +one, was built five hundred years ago, and is constructed on twenty-four +piers, firmly founded, yet shaking under the footstep. The superstitious +say it is of miraculous origin, for when they began to build it some +distance farther up the river, each night invisible hands removed the +stones to their present position. It is also a wealthy bridge and of +noble rank, having its heraldic coat-of-arms (a ship and a bridge proper +on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">[Pg 450]</a></span> plain field) and owning broad estates, with the income of which +"the said miraculous bridge has from time to time founded chantries, +built schools, waged suits-at-law, and, finally, given yearly dinners, +and kept for that purpose the best-stocked cellar of wines in all +Devon."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p450-1" id="p450-1"></a> +<img src="images/p450-1.jpg" width="650" height="291" alt="BIDEFORD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BIDEFORD.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>CLOVELLY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p450-2" id="p450-2"></a> +<img src="images/p450-2.jpg" width="600" height="476" alt="THE MAIN STREET, CLOVELLY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MAIN STREET, CLOVELLY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p451" id="p451"></a> +<img src="images/p451.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="OLD HOUSES ON THE BEACH, CLOVELLY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES ON THE BEACH, CLOVELLY.</span> +</div> + +<p>The coast of Barnstaple Bay sweeps around to the westward again, and +here, under the precipitous crags, nestling in one of the most +picturesque nooks in all England, is Clovelly. From an inland plateau of +considerable elevation the land falls steeply to the sea, with a narrow +strip of sand or shingle sometimes interposed, whereon the surf dashes +before it reaches the rocks. Dense foliage, with here and there a +protruding crag, overhangs the cliffs. Ravines occasionally furrow the +rocky<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">[Pg 451]</a></span> wall, and in one of these Clovelly is situated, beginning with +some scattered houses on the margin of the plateau above, descending the +cliff in one steep street, and spreading out about a miniature harbor on +the edge of the sea. There are few such streets to be seen +elsewhere—not made for wheeled vehicles, but paved in a series of broad +steps, over which the donkeys and the population plod with the produce +of the fleet of fishing-boats the village owns. It is narrow, with +strangely-shaped houses jumbled together alongside, and balconies and +bay-windows, chimneys and gables—all mixed up together. Here Kingsley +spent most of his boyhood, and hither flock the artists to paint odd +pictures for almost every British art-exhibition. Its little pier was +built in Richard II.'s time, when as now it was a landing-place for the +mackerel-and herring-boats. This quay has recently been somewhat +enlarged. Clovelly Court, the home of the Careys, is near by, with its +beautiful park extending out to the tall cliffs overhanging the sea. On +one craggy point, known as Gallantry Bower, and five hundred feet above +the waves, was an old watch-tower of the Normans, now reduced to a mere +ring of stones; and to the westward a few miles the bold rocks of +Hartland Point mark another angle in the coast as it bends southward +towards Cornwall. Eleven miles out to sea, rising four hundred feet and +guarded all around by grim precipices, is Lundy Island. Here in a little +cove are some fishermen's huts, while up on the top is a lighthouse,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">[Pg 452]</a></span> +and near it the ruins of the old Moresco Castle. We have already +referred to Sir Walter Raleigh's judicial murder: it was accomplished +mainly through the treachery of his near kinsman, Sir Lewis Stukely, +then vice-admiral of Devon. This and other actions caused Stukely to be +almost universally despised, and he was finally insulted by Lord Howard +of Effingham, when he complained to the king. "What should I do with +him?" asked James. "Hang him? On my sawl, mon, if I hung all that spoke +ill of thee, all the trees in the island were too few." Being soon +afterwards detected in the royal palace debasing the coin, he fled to +Devon, a ruined man. But he found no friends, and, every door being +closed against him, he sailed out to Lundy Island, and died alone in a +chamber of the ruined castle.</p> + + + +<h3>CORNWALL.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p452" id="p452"></a> +<img src="images/p452.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="FOWEY PIER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FOWEY PIER.</span> +</div> + +<p>Pursuing the bold shores of Cornwall southward, we pass many crags and +headlands, notably the Duke of Cornwall Harbor, protected by high +projecting cliffs, and just below find the ruins of King Arthur's castle +of Tintagel, located amid some of the most romantic scenery of this +grand line of coast. Here King Arthur is supposed to have been born, and +the fortress, built on a high rock almost surrounded by the sea, was +evidently of great strength. Here on the shore are King Arthur's Cliffs, +and their attractions, with the little church of Tintagel and the +partly-ruined fishing-town of Bossiney, make the place a popular resort +for poets and painters. Not far away in the interior, and standing near +the Tamar River on the top of a steep hill, is Launceston Castle, with +the town built on the adjacent slopes. The ruins, which are of great +antiquity, cover considerable surface, the walls being ten or twelve +feet thick, and the keep rising high upon the top of the hill, nearly +one hundred feet in diameter. This keep is said to have been an ancient +British structure. Old Roman and also leather coins have been found in +it, and it was a renowned stronghold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">[Pg 453]</a></span> when William the Norman came to +England and gave it to Robert, Earl of Moreton. It now belongs to the +Duchy of Cornwall. It was garrisoned for King Charles in the Civil War, +and was one of his last supports. Westward in Cornwall is Camelford, +over which frown the two Cornish mountains, Rowtor and Brown Willy, a +short distance to the southward, rising respectively thirteen hundred +and thirteen hundred and eighty feet. The Cornish range forms the +backbone of the narrow peninsula which now juts out to the +south-westward, marking the extreme point of England, and down which we +will gradually journey. Crossing the mountains, we come to Liskeard, in +a beautiful country filled with ancient Roman remains. Going down to the +southern coast, we reach Fowey with its picturesque harbor and pier, +with the Sharpitor and Kilmarth Mountains beyond, twelve hundred and +twelve hundred and seventy-seven feet high respectively. Fowey harbor, +sheltered by high hills richly clothed with green, is the "haven under +the hill" of which the balladist sings, and near its quaint old pier, +almost covered with houses, is Fowey Church, recently effectually +restored.</p> + + + +<h3>THE LIZARD PENINSULA.</h3> + +<p>The Cornish peninsula upon approaching its termination divides into two, +with the semicircular sweep of Mount's Bay between them. To the +southward juts out the Lizard, and to the westward Land's End. While the +latter is the westernmost extremity of England, the Lizard is usually +the earliest headland that greets the mariner. The Lizard peninsula is +practically almost an island, the broad estuary of the Helford River on +one side and a strange inlet called Loo Pool on the other narrowing its +connecting isthmus to barely two miles width. To the northward of the +Helford River is the well-known port of Falmouth. Inland are the great +Cornwall tin-and copper-mines, the former having been worked for +centuries, while the latter are now probably of the greater importance. +Competition and the costlier working of the tin-mines have caused many +of them to be abandoned. These metals are mostly mined on the black +moorlands, which offer little attraction to the tourist, who gladly +avoids them for the picturesque shores of Falmouth harbor. A broad +estuary guarded by bold headlands forms Carrick Roads, and the western +one of these also guards the entrance to Falmouth harbor, which Leland +describes as being in his day "the principal haven of all Britain." +Though long frequented, however, no town stood on its shores until the +seventeenth century. When Raleigh came back from his voyage to Guiana +there was but a single house on the shore, where his crew were lodged, +and he, being impressed with the advantages of the location for a port, +laid before Queen Elizabeth a plan for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[Pg 454]</a></span> the foundation of a town. But it +was a long while before anything came of it, and the place was not named +Falmouth or incorporated until the reign of Charles II. It became a +post-office packet-station for the Atlantic ports in the last century, +and Byron in his day described it as containing "many Quakers and much +salt fish." Its Cornish name is Pen-combick, meaning "the village in the +hollow of the headland," which has been corrupted by the mariner into +"Penny-come-quick," because on one occasion the landlady of the solitary +inn sold the liquor engaged for a party of visitors to a parcel of +thirsty Dutch sailors who had just landed, and, being taken to task for +it explained that the "penny come so quick" she could not deny them. +Pendennis Castle guards the entrance to Carrick Roads, and was built by +Henry VIII., being enlarged by Elizabeth. It and Raglan were the last +castles holding out for King Charles. Lightning greatly injured +Pendennis in the last century. On the opposite portal of the harbor +stands St. Mawe's Castle. The ramparts of Pendennis afford a view of +extreme beauty.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p454" id="p454"></a> +<img src="images/p454.jpg" width="600" height="358" alt="PENDENNIS CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PENDENNIS CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p455" id="p455"></a> +<img src="images/p455.jpg" width="650" height="466" alt="MULLYON COVE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MULLYON COVE</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p456-1" id="p456-1"></a> +<img src="images/p456-1.jpg" width="600" height="388" alt="LION ROCK—MULLYON IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LION ROCK—MULLYON IN THE DISTANCE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p456-2" id="p456-2"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p456-2.jpg" width="450" height="381" alt="CAVE AT MULLYON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAVE AT MULLYON.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">[Pg 455]</a></span>On the narrow neck of land uniting the Lizard peninsula to the mainland +stands Helston, formerly guarded by a castle that has long since +disappeared, and named, we are told, from the great block of granite +that once formed the portal of the infernal regions. The master of those +dominions once, when he went abroad, carried his front door with him, +and was met in this neighborhood by St. Michael, whereupon there was a +"bit of a fight" between the two adversaries. His Satanic Majesty was +defeated, and, dropping his front door, fled.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">[Pg 456]</a></span> The great boulder, which +thus named the town, is built into a wall back of the Angel Inn, and +they hold an annual festival on May 8th to commemorate the event. Loo +Pool cuts deeply into the land to the westward of Helston, and the +district south of it is an elevated plateau, bare and treeless +generally, but containing many pretty glens, while the shore is lined +with sequestered coves. Here grow the Cornish heath-flowers, which are +most beautiful in the early autumn, while the serpentine rocks of its +grand sea-cliffs, relieved by sparkling golden crystals and veins of +green, red, and white, make fine ornaments. Upon the coast, southward +from Helston, is Mullyon Cove, a characteristic specimen of the Lizard +scenery. A glen winds down to the sea, displacing the crags to get an +outlet, and disclosing their beautiful serpentine veins. A pyramidal +rock rises on one hand, a range of serpentine cliffs on the other, and a +flat-topped island in front. In the serpentine cliffs is the portal of a +cave that can be penetrated for over two hundred feet, and was a haunt +of the smugglers in former days, the revenue officers generally winking +at them for a share of the spoils. We are told that in the last century +the smugglers here had six vessels, manned by two hundred and +thirty-four men and mounting fifty-six cannon—a formidable fleet—and +when Falmouth got a collector sufficiently resolute to try to break them +up, they actually posted handbills offering rewards for his +assassination. At one place on shore they had a battery of six-pounders, +which did not hesitate to fire on the king's ships when they became too +inquisitive. The coast is full of places about which tales are told of +the exploits of the smugglers, but the crime has long since become +extinct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">[Pg 457]</a></span> there because it no longer pays. South of Mullyon are the bold +headlands of Pradanack Point and Vellan Head, while beyond we come to +the most noted spot on the Lizard peninsular coast.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p457-1" id="p457-1"></a> +<img src="images/p457-1.jpg" width="600" height="317" alt="PRADANACK POINT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PRADANACK POINT.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>KYNANCE COVE AND LIZARD HEAD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p457-2" id="p457-2"></a> +<img src="images/p457-2.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="KYNANCE COVE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">KYNANCE COVE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p458" id="p458"></a> +<img src="images/p458.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="THE POST-OFFICE, LIZARD POINT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE POST-OFFICE, LIZARD POINT.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p459-1" id="p459-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 371px;"> +<img src="images/p459-1.jpg" width="371" height="450" alt="POLPEOR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">POLPEOR.</span> +</div> +<p>Kynance Cove is the opening of one of the many shallow valleys indenting +the inland plateau, with crags and skerries thrown over the sea, showing +that the cliffs on the shore have not, as usual, maintained an unbroken +front to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">[Pg 458]</a></span> waves, but have been knocked about in wild confusion. +Groups of islands dot the cove; Steeple Rock rears its solitary pinnacle +aloft; the Lion Rock crouches near the southern verge. It is as wild a +place as can well be imagined, and at low water strips of sand connect +these rocks with the mainland, though the quickly-rising waters often +compel the visitor to run for it. At the water's edge, when the tide is +low, little wave-worn caverns are disclosed in the cliffs which are +known as the "Drawing-Room," the "Parlor," etc. On the smooth face of +the landward slope of one of the larger islands there are two orifices +looking like the slit of a letter-box. The upper is called the +"Post-Office," and the lower one the "Bellows." If you hold a sheet of +paper in the former a gust of air will suddenly suck it into the +aperture. Then if you look into the "Post-Office" to investigate its +secrets, a column of spray will as suddenly deluge you with a +first-class shower-bath. This is on Asparagus Island, and by climbing to +the top of the rock the mystery is solved. The rock is almost severed by +a fissure opening towards the sea: a wave surges in and spurts from the +orifices on the landward side, then recedes and sucks the air back +through them. From the cove at Kynance down to the extremity of the +Lizard the scenery is everywhere fine. Here is the southernmost +extremity of England, there being three headlands jutting into the sea +near one another, the westernmost being the Old Lizard Head. Upon the +middle one are the lighthouses that warn the mariner. Black cliffs +above, and a sea studded with reefs below, give this place a forbidding +aspect. One of the reefs is known as "Man-of-War Rock," from the wreck +of a vessel there, and the weapons cast upon the neighboring shore gave +it the name of the "Pistol Meadow." The other headland supports a +telegraph-station, and a submarine cable goes down into the sea, to +reappear again upon the distant shores of Portugal. From<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">[Pg 459]</a></span> here the +signals are sent that give notice of arriving ships. Beneath the cliffs +rises out of the sea that strange black crag, looking like a projecting +pulpit, which is known as the Bumble Rock. In the green sward above the +cliffs a yawning gulf opens its rocky mouth, and is called the Lion's +Den. It terminates in a rocky tunnel which communicates with the sea +through a natural archway. This was a cavern, the rocky roof of which +fell in about thirty-five years ago. Nestling under the middle headland +is the tiny port of Polpeor, the little harbor of the Lizard, a +fishermen's paradise in a small way. Around on the eastern coast of the +peninsula the rocks are also fine, and here are the fishing-villages of +Lizard Town and Landewednack, the latter having a strange old church, +reputed to be the last in which a sermon was preached in the Cornish +tongue. The grave of one of the rectors tells that he lived to be one +hundred and twenty years old, for people live long in this delicious +climate. These villages are devoted to the pilchard-fishery, and during +the season the lookout-men can be seen perched on the cliffs watching +for the approach of a shoal, to warn the fishing-boats that are ready to +put to sea from the sheltered coves below. Great crags are tumbled into +the ocean, and the coast abounds in caves, with occasionally a quarry +for the serpentine. Beyond can be traced the dim outline of the +headlands guarding Falmouth entrance. This is a unique district, whose +rock-bound coast is a terror to the mariner, but a delight to the +geologist and artist, and whose recesses, where the Cornish dialect +still flourishes among the old folk, are about the only places in +England not yet penetrated by the railway, which has gridironed the +British kingdom everywhere else.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p459-2" id="p459-2"></a> +<img src="images/p459-2.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="ROCKS NEAR THE LIZARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROCKS NEAR THE LIZARD.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">[Pg 460]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 511px;"> +<a name="p460" id="p460"></a> +<img src="images/p460.jpg" width="511" height="550" alt="ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT.</span> +</div> + +<p>The western peninsula of Cornwall juts far out beyond Mount's Bay, which +acquires its name from what is probably the most remarkable crag in all +this wonderful region. This was the Iktis of the ancient geographers, an +object so conspicuous as to attract attention in all ages. It is a mass +of granite rising from the sands, covering about twenty-five acres, and +the top of the church which crowns it is elevated two hundred and +thirty-eight feet. It is impossible by either pen or pencil to give an +adequate idea of St. Michael's Mount—of the shattered masses of the +rock itself, its watch-turrets and batteries, the turf and sea-plants +niched in its recesses, and the gray, lichen-covered towers that rise +from the summit. Cornish tradition says that the giant Cormoran built +the first fortress here; and he is one of those unfortunate giants whose +fate is told under the name of Corincus in the veritable history of Jack +the Giant-killer. The archangel St. Michael afterwards appeared to some +hermits on its rocks, and this gave the mount its religious character +and name. Milton has written of it in <i>Lycidas</i>:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Or whether thou to our moist views denied,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sleep'st by the fable of Bellerus old,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where the great vision of the guarded mount</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Looks towards Namancos and Bayona's hold."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>It was always a strongly-defended place, and became a Benedictine +monastery—at first as an offshoot of the greater abbey of St. Michael +in Normandy, which in situation it resembles, and afterwards as an +independent establishment. It was a stronghold as well as a religious +house, however, and was notorious as the "back-door of rebellion," +frequently besieged. The crowning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">[Pg 461]</a></span> square tower is that of the monastic +church, and St. Michael's Chair is on the battlements—a stone beacon +which is of great importance to all newly-married couples in that +region, for it bestows the ascendency on the husband or wife who first +sits in it. It is of this chair Southey's ballad about the adventurous +Rebecca was written; and he tells that just as she was installed.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Merrily, merrily rang the bells,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And out Rebecca was thrown."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The family of St. Aubyn hold the mount, and they have recently +thoroughly restored the buildings, adding some fine apartments. It is +accessible only when the receding tide leaves bare the natural causeway +that connects the island with the shore.</p> + + + +<h3>PENZANCE AND THE LAND'S END.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p461" id="p461"></a> +<img src="images/p461.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="OLD MARKET, PENZANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD MARKET, PENZANCE.</span> +</div> + + + +<p><a name="p462" id="p462"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 2em;">THE LAND'S END.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p462.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:350px; height:100px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:520px; height:120px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:590px; height:230px;"> </div> + +<p>This whole peninsula is filled with hut-villages, cromlechs, and other +prehistoric remains of its ancient people, but we have not the space to +devote to their description, however agreeable it might be. Hill-castles +and caves are also frequent, each with its traditions. The chief town is +Penzance, or the "Holy Headland," jutting out into Mount's Bay, where +once was a chapel dedicated to St. Anthony, who with St. Michael kept +guard over this favored region. Here is another prosperous seat of the +pilchard-fishery, and among its people the favorite toast is to the +three Cornish products, "tin, fish, and copper." Once, they tell us, +seventy-five millions of these fish were caught in a single day. They +rise in small shoals from the depths of the sea, then unite into larger +ones, and finally, about the end of July, combine in a mighty host, led +by the "Pilchard King" and most powerful of the tribe. The lookouts on +the crags give warning, and then begins the extraordinary migration that +calls out all the Cornish fishermen. Pursued by hordes of sea-birds and +predatory fish, the pilchards advance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">[Pg 462]</a></span> towards the land in such vast +numbers as to discolor the water and almost to impede the passage of +vessels. The enormous fish-army passes the Land's End, a grand +spectacle, moving along parallel to the shore, and then comes the +harvest. On the southward of the granite mass that forms the extremity +of the peninsula rises the Logan Rock, the entire headland being +defended by remains of ancient intrenchments. The Logan itself is a +granite block weighing sixty tons, and so nicely balanced that it will +oscillate. Near here, as we go out towards the western extremity of the +peninsula, are several old churches, many ancient remains that have +yielded up their chief curiosities for museums, and remarkable cliffs +projecting into the sea, the strangest of them being the "holed headland +of Penwith," a mass of columnar granite which the waves have shattered +into deep fissures. Then beyond is the Land's End itself, the most +westerly point in England, with the rocks of the Longships out in the +water with their guardian lighthouse. The extreme point of the Land's +End is about sixty feet high and pierced by a natural tunnel, but the +cliffs on each side rise to a greater elevation. The faint outlines of +the Scilly Islands are seen on the distant horizon, but all else is a +view over the boundless sea. The Land's End is a vast aggregation of +granite, which Sir Humphrey Davy, the Cornish chemist and poet, who was +born at Penzance, has thus depicted:</p></div> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 11em;">"On the sea</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The sunbeams tremble, and the purple light</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Illumes the dark Bolerium: seat of storms;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">High are his granite rocks; his frowning brow</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hangs o'er the smiling ocean. In his caves</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There sleep the haggard spirits of the storm.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wild, dreary, are the schistine rocks around,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Encircled by the wave, where to the breeze</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The haggard cormorant shrieks; and far beyond,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where the great ocean mingles with the sky,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Are seen the cloud-like islands gray in mists."</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">[Pg 463]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII.</h2> + +<h3>LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Surrey Side—The Chalk Downs—Guildford—The Hog's Back—Albury +Down—Archbishop Abbot—St. Catharine's Chapel—St. Martha's +Chapel—Albury Park—John Evelyn—Henry Drummond—Aldershot +Camp—Leith Hill—Redland's Wood—Holmwood Park—Dorking—Weller +and the Marquis of Granby Inn—Deepdene—Betchworth Castle—The +River Mole—Boxhill—The Fox and Hounds—The Denbies—Ranmore +Common—Battle of Dorking—Wotton +Church—Epsom—Reigate—Pierrepoint House—Longfield—The Weald of +Kent—Goudhurst—Bedgebury Park—Kilndown—Cranbrook—Bloody +Baker's Prison—Sissinghurst—Bayham Abbey—Tunbridge +Castle—Tunbridge Wells—Penshurst—Sir Philip Sidney—Hever +Castle—Anne Boleyn—Knole—Leeds Castle—Tenterden Steeple and the +Goodwin Sands—Rochester—Gad's Hill—Chatham—Canterbury +Cathedral—St. Thomas à Becket—Falstaff Inn—Isle of +Thanet—Ramsgate—Margate—North Foreland—The Cinque +Ports—Sandwich—Rutupiæ—Ebbsfleet—Goodwin Sands—Walmer +Castle—South Foreland—Dover—Shakespeare's +Cliff—Folkestone—Hythe—Romney—Dungeness—Rye—Winchelsea—Hastings—Pevensey—Hailsham—Hurstmonceux +Castle—Beachy Head—Brighton—The Aquarium—The South +Downs—Dichling Beacon—Newhaven—Steyning—Wiston +Manor—Chanctonbury Ring—Arundel Castle—Chichester—Selsey +Bill—Goodwood—Bignor—Midhurst—Cowdray—Dunford +House—Selborne—Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and +church—Greatham Church—Winchester—The New +Forest—Lyndhurst—Minsted Manor—Castle Malwood—Death of William +Rufus—Rufus's Stone—Beaulieu +Abbey—Brockenhurst—Ringwood—Lydington—Christchurch—Southampton—Netley +Abbey—Calshot Castle—The Solent—Portsea +Island—Portsmouth—Gosport—Spithead—The Isle of Wight—High +Down—Alum Bay—Yarmouth—Cowes—Osborne +House—Ryde—Brading—Sandown—Shanklin Chine—Bonchurch—The +Undercliff—Ventnor—Niton—St. Lawrence Church—St. Catharine's +Down—Blackgang Chine—Carisbrooke +Castle—Newport—Freshwater—Brixton—The Needles.</p></div> + + + +<h3>GUILDFORD.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p464" id="p464"></a> +<img src="images/p464.jpg" width="600" height="356" alt="HIGH STREET, GUILDFORD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HIGH STREET, GUILDFORD.</span> +</div> + +<p>Crossing over the Thames to the Surrey side, we proceed southward to +that vast chalk-measure which, like a miniature mountain-wall, divides +the watershed draining into that river from the Weald of Sussex and of +Kent. This chalky hill is here and there breached by the valley of a +stream, and through it the Wey and the Mole, to which we have heretofore +referred, flow northward to join the current of the Thames. In the gap +formed by each there is a town, Guildford standing alongside the Wey, +and Dorking on the Mole. Both develop magnificent scenery on the flanks +of the chalk-ranges that surround them; and we will now go about thirty +miles south-west from London and visit Guildford, whose origin is +involved in the mystery that surrounds the early history of so many +English towns. It was a royal manor in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">[Pg 464]</a></span> the days of King Alfred, being +granted to his nephew, and it was here a few years before the Norman +Conquest that the ætheling Ælfred was captured. Harold, the son of +Canute, wished to destroy him to secure the succession to the throne. He +forged a letter purporting to be from his mother, Queen Emma, inviting +Ælfred to come to England, and sent his minister Godwine forward, who +met and swore allegiance to Ælfred, lodging him at Guildford, and most +of his comrades in separate houses there. In the night Harold's +emissaries suddenly appeared, slew his comrades, and carried Ælfred off +to Ely, where he was loaded with fetters, and, being tried by some sort +of tribunal, was blinded and then put to death. The monks of Ely +enshrined his body, and of course miracles were wrought by it. The +castle was built on the Wey after the Norman Conquest, and Henry II. +made it a park and royal residence, so that it was long called the +King's Manor. In Charles I.'s time it was granted to the Earl of +Annandale. The situation of Guildford is picturesque; the chalk-range is +narrowed to a line of steep, ridgy hills almost as straight as a wall +and severed by the valley of the Wey. This pretty stream escapes from +the Weald to the southward between the Hog's Back on the west and Albury +Down on the east, the valley narrowing so as to form a natural gateway +just where the river emerges. A bridge was built here, and this +determined the site of the town, which straggles up the Hog's Back and +the Down, and also spreads out in the broadening valley of the emerging +river. High up in the hills that make the eastern slope of the valley is +the old gray<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">[Pg 465]</a></span> castle-keep, with an ancient church-tower lower down and a +new church by the waterside. From the bridge runs straight up this hill +the chief thoroughfare of the town, High Street. The shapeless ruins of +the old castle, the keep alone being kept in good condition, are not far +away from the upper part of this street, crowning an artificial mound +encompassed by what once was a ditch, but now is chiefly a series of +gardens. The ancient church-tower, part way down the hill, is dedicated +to St. Mary, but has been shorn of its original proportions in order to +widen a street. This was done, we are told, for the convenience of +George IV., who used to pass in a coach along this street on his way +from London to Brighton. The tower is low and unassuming, and is +supposed to date from the time of King Stephen. The new church of St. +Nicholas stands by the river, and Guildford also possesses another +church built of brick. None of these churches have spires, and therefore +some local wit has written,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Poor Guildford, proud people;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three churches—no steeple."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The High Street climbs the hill past many quaint buildings, particularly +the old town-hall, where the hill is somewhat less steep. Its upper +stories project beyond the lower, being supported by carved beams, and +the town-clock hangs over the street. Abbot's Hospital, built by +Guildford's most noted townsman, George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury, +is also in this street. He was born in a humble cottage, and the legend +tells us that his mother, before the event, dreamed that if she could +eat a pike she would have a son who would be a great man. She was unable +to buy the fish anywhere, but, drawing a pailful of water from the +river, to her surprise found a pike in it. When George was born the tale +was told, and several distinguished people offered to become his +sponsors. They gave him a good education, and he graduated at Balliol +College, Oxford, and was made Dean of Westminster. He was one of the +revisers of the Scriptures who prepared the revision in the seventeenth +century, was made a bishop, and in 1611 Archbishop of Canterbury. His +brother was Bishop of Salisbury, and another brother Lord Mayor of +London. He was a great hunter, as were most ecclesiastics at that time, +and in 1621, when shooting at a buck, his arrow accidentally pierced the +arm of a gatekeeper, who soon bled to death. The archbishop was +horror-stricken, settled an annuity upon the widow, and to the close of +his life observed Tuesday, the day of the accident, as a weekly fast. +This occurrence raised a hot dispute in the Church as to whether the +archbishop, by having blood on his hands, had become incapable of +discharging the duties of his sacred office. He retired to his hospital +at Guildford while the inquiry was conducted, was ultimately +exon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">[Pg 466]</a></span>erated, and in 1625 died. This hospital is built around a small +quadrangle, and in its gateway-tower the unfortunate "King Monmouth" was +lodged on his last journey from Sedgemoor to London. Abbot, according to +the inscription on the walls, founded this charity for "a master, twelve +brethren, and eight sisters"—all to be unmarried and not less than +sixty years of age, and chosen from Guildford, preference to be given to +"such as have borne office or been good traders in the town, or such as +have been soldiers sent, and who have ventured their lives or lost their +blood for their prince and country." The number of inmates is now +increased, the endowment having accumulated. Guildford used to maintain +the piety of its people by requiring that all should attend church and +listen to a sermon, or else be fined a shilling. Over on the other side +of the valley, on a grassy spur protruding from the Hog's Back, are the +ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel, built in the fourteenth century. The +local tradition tells that this and St. Martha's Chapel, on an adjacent +hill, were built by two sister-giantesses, who worked with a single +hammer, which they flung from hill to hill to each other as required. +St. Catharine's Chapel long since fell in ruins, and not far away on the +slope, St. Catharine's Spring flows perennially. On Albury Down is a +residence of the Duke of Northumberland, Albury Park, laid out in the +seventeenth century by John Evelyn, famous for his devotion to rural +beauties, and the residence during the present century of Henry +Drummond, the banker, politician, and theologian, the most caustic +critic of his time in Parliament, and the great promoter of the Church +of the Second Advent.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p466" id="p466"></a> +<img src="images/p466.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="RUINS OF ST. CATHARINE'S CHAPEL, FROM THE RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF ST. CATHARINE'S CHAPEL, FROM THE RIVER.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467">[Pg 467]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>ALDERSHOT CAMP.</h3> + +<p>A few miles to the westward, near Farnborough, over the border in +Hampshire, is Aldershot Camp, permanently established there in 1854. The +Basingstoke Canal flows through a plateau elevated about three hundred +and twenty feet above the sea, and divides the location into a north and +south camp, the latter occupying much the larger surface and containing +most of the public buildings. On a central hillock covered by clumps of +fir trees are the headquarters of the general in command when the troops +are being exercised and going through their manœuvres. The Long +Valley stretches to the westward, terminating in a steep hill rising six +hundred feet, from which the best view of the military movements is had +on a field-day. The two camps cover about seven square miles, and they +commonly contain about twelve thousand troops during the season for the +manœuvres. There are long rows of wooden huts for the soldiers, and +there are also barracks, hospitals, and other necessary buildings, the +cost of the establishment of this military dépôt having exceeded +$7,000,000 already. The annual reviews take place from June to +September, the regiments of volunteers being detailed in turn to +co-operate with the regular troops, so as to gain a practical knowledge +of military duties.</p> + + + +<h3>DORKING.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p467" id="p467"></a> +<img src="images/p467.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="LEITH HILL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEITH HILL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p468" id="p468"></a> +<img src="images/p468.jpg" width="600" height="433" alt="THE OLD DOVECOTE, HOLMWOOD PARK, SURREY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE OLD DOVECOTE, HOLMWOOD PARK, SURREY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Proceeding eastward along the chalk-hills for about twelve miles, we +come<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468">[Pg 468]</a></span> to the breach made in them by the valley of the Mole for the +passage of that strange little river. Here, however, appears a second +and parallel range of hills, distant about four miles, the long and +generally flat-topped ridge culminating in the commanding summit of +Leith Hill. This is the highest ground in this part of England, rising +nearly one thousand feet, a broad summit sloping gradually down towards +the north, but presenting to the south a steep and, in places, a +precipitous ascent. At its foot is the residence known as Leith Hill +Place, where Mr. Hull lived in the last century, and built the tower for +an outlook that crowns its summit, leaving orders in his will that he +should be buried there. The tower was partially burned in 1877, but has +been restored. The view from the top of Leith Hill is grand, although it +takes some exertion to get there, and it discloses a panorama of typical +English scenery over the white chalk-downs, dappled with green and the +darker woodland, with the Thames lowlands far away to the north, while +to the southward the land falls abruptly to the great valley of the +Weald, a plain of rich red earth, with woods and grainfields and +hedgerows stretching away to the dim line of the South Downs at the +horizon. Pleasant little villas and old-time comfortable farm-houses are +dotted all about with their dovecotes and outbuildings. To the eastward +is the Redlands Wood, crowned by a tall silver<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">[Pg 469]</a></span> fir, and just beyond is +Holmwood Common, whereon donkeys graze and flocks of geese patiently +await the September plucking. Here, at Holmwood Park, is one of those +ancient yet still populous dovecotes that contribute so much to enhance +the beauties of English rural scenery.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p469" id="p469"></a> +<img src="images/p469.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="THE WHITE HORSE INN, DORKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE WHITE HORSE INN, DORKING.</span> +</div> + +<p>Dorking lies in the valley of the Mole, just south of the high +chalk-ranges, at the foot of wooded hills, and with its bordering +meadows stretching out to the river-bank. It is an ancient town, +appearing in the Domesday Book under the name of Dorchinges, and +standing on the route which Julius Cæsar took through these hills on his +invasion of Britain. After the Norman Conquest the manor became the +property of Earl Warrenne, and as a favorite halting-place on the road +between London and the south coast in the Middle Ages it throve greatly +and was noted for the number of its inns. Its chief street—High +Street—runs parallel with the chalk-hills, and presents a picturesque +variety of old-time houses, though none are of great pretensions. Among +them is the long, low structure, with a quaint entrance-gate in the +middle, suggestive of the days before railroads, and known as the "White +Horse Inn." The ancient "Cardinal's Cap" has been transformed into the +"Red Lion Inn," and the "Old King's Head," the most famous of these +hostelries, has been removed to make room for the post-office. This +latter inn was the original of "The Marquis of Granby, Dorking," where +that substantial person, Mr. Wel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">[Pg 470]</a></span>ler, Senior, lived, and under the sway +of Mrs. Weller the veteran coachman smoked his pipe and practised +patience, while the "shepherd" imbibed hot pineapple rum and water and +dispensed spiritual consolation to the flock. An old stage-coachman who +lived years ago at Dorking is said to have been Dickens's original for +this celebrated character, and the townsfolk still talk of the venerable +horse-trough that stood in front of the inn wherein the bereaved +landlord immersed Mr. Stiggins's head after kicking him out of the bar.</p> + +<p>The parish church is the only public building of any pretension in +Dorking, and it is quite new, replacing another structure whose +registers go back to the sixteenth century, containing, among other +curious entries, the christening in 1562 of a child whose fate is +recorded in these words: "Who, scoffing at thunder, standing under a +beech, was stroke to death, his clothes stinking with a sulphurous +stench, being about the age of twenty years or thereabouts, at Mereden +House." The Dorking fowls all have the peculiarity of an extra claw on +each foot, being white and speckled, and a Roman origin being claimed +for the breed, which is most delicate in flavor and commands a high +price. On the southern outskirts of the town is Deepdene, a mansion +surrounded by magnificent trees and standing on the slope of a hill. It +was the home of the Hopes, its late owner, H. T. Hope, having been the +author of the novel <i>Anastasius</i>. He was a zealous patron of art, and +first brought Thorwaldsen into public notice by commissioning him to +execute his "Jason" in marble. The house contains many rare gems of +sculpture, including Canova's "Venus Rising from the Bath," with +paintings by Raphael, Paul Veronese, and others. It was here that +Disraeli wrote the greater part of <i>Coningsby</i>. A <i>dene</i> or glade +opening near the house gives the place its name, the grounds being +extensive and displaying gardens and fine woods. The scenery of this +glade is beautiful, while from the terrace at the summit of the hill, +where there is a Doric temple, a magnificent view can be had far away +over the lowlands. Deepdene is attractive both within and without, for +its grand collection of art-treasures vies with Nature in affording +delight to the visitor. The ruins of Betchworth Castle, built four +hundred years ago, are alongside the Mole. "The soft windings of the +silent Mole" around Betchworth furnished a theme for Thomson, while +Milton calls it "the sullen Mole that runneth underneath," and Pope, +"the sullen Mole that hides his diving flood." Spenser has something to +say of the</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"——Mole, that like a nousling mole doth make</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His way still underground till Thames he overtake."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>This peculiarity comes from the river hiding itself under Box Hill, +where,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">[Pg 471]</a></span> after disappearing for about two miles, it comes bubbling up out +of the ground again. This disappearance of streams in hilly regions is +not unusual. Box Hill, beneath whose slopes the Mole passes, is part of +the great chalk-range rising steeply on the eastern side of the gap +where the river-valley breaks through. Its summit is elevated four +hundred feet, the hill being densely wooded and containing large +plantations of box, whence its name. One of these box-groves covers two +hundred and thirty acres. On the brow of Box Hill, Major Labillière, a +singular character, was buried in 1800. He lived in Dorking, and, +becoming convinced that the world had been turned topsy-turvy, selected +his grave, and gave instructions that he should be buried head downward, +so that at the final setting right of mundane affairs he would rise +correctly. In the Mole Valley, at the base of Box Hill, at a pretty +little house called the "Fox and Hounds," Keats finished his poem of +<i>Endymion</i>, and here Lord Nelson spent his last days in England before +leaving on the expedition that closed with his greatest victory and +death at Trafalgar.</p> + +<p>Upon the hill on the western side of the gap is the Denbies, from which +there is a view all the way to London. At the back of this high hill is +Ranmore Common. The Denbies are the scene of the "Battle of Dorking," +having been held by the English defensive army in that imaginary and +disastrous conflict wherein German invaders land upon the southern +coasts, destroy the British fleets by torpedoes, triumphantly march to +the base of the chalk-ranges, fight a terrific battle, force their way +through the gaps in the hills, capture London, and dethrone England from +her high place among the great powers of Europe. This was a summer-time +magazine article, written to call English attention to the necessity of +looking after the national defences; and it had a powerful effect. +Westward of Dorking there is fine scenery, amid which is the little +house known as the "Rookery," where Malthus the political economist was +born in 1766. Wotton Church stands alongside the road near by, almost +hid by aged trees—a building of various dates, with a porch and stunted +tower. Here John Evelyn was taught when a child, and the graves of his +family are in a chapel opening from the north aisle. Wotton House, where +Evelyn lived, is in the adjacent valley and at the foot of the famous +Leith Hill. His favorite pastime was climbing up the hill to see over +the dozen counties the view discloses, with the sea far away to the +southward on the Sussex coast. The house is an irregular brick building +of various dates, the earliest parts built in Elizabethan days, and it +contains many interesting relics of Evelyn, whose diary has contributed +so much to English history from the reign of Charles I. to Queen Anne. +He was a great botanist, and has left a prominent and valuable work in +<i>Sylva</i>, his treatise on trees. It was to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_472" id="Page_472">[Pg 472]</a></span> north-west of Wotton, on +a tract of common known as Evershed Rough, that Bishop Samuel +Wilberforce, while riding with Earl Granville in 1873, was thrown from +the saddle by his stumbling horse, and striking the ground with his head +was almost immediately killed. A cross marks the sad and lonely spot.</p> + + + +<h3>EPSOM AND REIGATE.</h3> + + +<p class="author"><a name="p472" id="p472"></a><span class="caption">PIERREPONT, SURREY.</span></p> +<div class="backright" style="background-image: url(images/p472.jpg); height: 100%;"> + +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:400px; height:130px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-right" style="width:650px; height:260px;"> </div> +<p>On the northern verge of the chalk-downs, and about fifteen miles south +of London, is the famous race-course at Epsom, whither much of London +goes for a holiday on the "Derby Day." Epsom is a large and rather +rambling town located in a depression in the hills, and two hundred +years ago was a fashionable resort for its medicinal waters, so that it +soon grew from a little village to a gay watering-place. Its water was +strongly impregnated with sulphate of magnesia, making the Epsom salts +of the druggist, and also with small quantities of the chlorides of +magnesium and calcium. None of these salts are now made at Epsom, they +being manufactured artificially in large amounts at a low price. The +Epsom well, however, that produced the celebrated waters, still remains +on the common near the town. From a watering-place Epsom became +transformed into a race-ground about a hundred years ago. There is a two +days' meeting in April, but the great festival comes in May, continuing +four days from Tuesday to Friday before Whitsuntide, unless Easter is in +March, when it occurs in the week after Whitsunday. Wednesday is the +grand day, when a vast crowd gathers to witness the Derby race, +established in 1780 and named from the Earl of Derby's seat at +Woodmansterne,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">[Pg 473]</a></span> near by. This is a race of a mile and a half for +three-year olds. The Oaks Stakes are run for on Friday over the same +course, but for three-year-old fillies only. This race is named from +Lambert's Oaks, near the neighboring village of Banstead. The race-hill +is elevated about five hundred feet above the sea, and the grand stand, +which is the most substantial in England, affords magnificent views, +stretching far away beyond Windsor Castle and the dome of St. Paul's in +London. Epsom Downs on the Derby Day show the great annual festival of +England, but at other times the town is rather quiet, though its Spread +Eagle Inn is usually a head-quarters for the racing fraternity.</p> + + +<p>The ruins of Reigate Castle are a short distance south of Epsom, the +pretty village of Reigate standing near the head of the lovely Holmsdale +on the southern verge of the chalk-ranges. Beautiful views and an +unending variation of scenery make this an attractive resort. Surrey is +full of pleasant places, disclosing quaint old houses that bring down to +us the architecture of the time of Elizabeth and the days of the "good +Queen Anne." Some of these buildings, which so thoroughly exemplify the +attractions of the rural homes of England, are picturesque and +noteworthy. As specimens of many we present Pierrepoint House and +Longfield, East Sheen. These are the old models now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_474" id="Page_474">[Pg 474]</a></span> being reproduced by +modern architects, combining novelty without and comfort within, and +they are just far enough from London to make them pleasant +country-houses, with all the advantage of city luxuries.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p473" id="p473"></a> +<img src="images/p473.jpg" width="600" height="437" alt="LONGFIELD, EAST SHEEN, SURREY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LONGFIELD, EAST SHEEN, SURREY.</span> +</div> + + +<h3>THE WEALD OF KENT.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding eastward along the chalk-downs and over the border into Kent, +we reach the Wealden formation, the "wooded land" of that county—so +named by the Saxons—which stretches between the North and South Downs, +the chalk-formations bordering this primeval forest, but now almost +entirely transformed into a rich agricultural country. The Weald is a +region of great fertility and high cultivation, still bearing numerous +copses of well-grown timber, the oak being the chief, and furnishing in +times past the material for many of its substantial oaken houses. The +little streams that meander among the undulating hills of this +attractive region are nearly all gathered together to form the Medway, +which flows past Maidstone to join the Thames. It was the portions of +the Weald around Goudhurst that were memorable for the exploits of +Radford and his band, the originals of G. P. R. James's <i>Smugglers</i>. +Goudhurst church-tower, finely located on one of the highest hills of +the Wealden region, gives a grand view on all sides, especially to the +southward over Mr. Beresford Hope's seat at Bedgebury Park. In this old +church of St. Mary are buried the Bedgeburys and the Colepeppers. Their +ancient house, surrounded by a moat, has been swept away, and the +present mansion was built in the seventeenth century out of the proceeds +of a sunken Spanish treasure-ship, Sir James Hayes, who built the house, +having gone into a speculation with Lord Falkland and others to recover +the treasure. This origin of Bedgebury House is recorded on its +foundation-stone: it has been greatly enlarged by successive owners, and +is surrounded by ornamental gardens and grounds, with a park of wood, +lake, and heather covering two thousand acres. In the neighboring church +of Kilndown, Field-marshal Beresford, the former owner of Bedgebury, +reposes in a canopied sepulchre. Just to the eastward is Cranbrook, the +chief market-town of the Weald, the ancient sanctuary of the Anabaptists +and the historical centre of the Flemish cloth-trade, which used to be +carried on by the "old gray-coats of Kent." Their descendants still live +in the old-time factories, which have been converted into handsome +modern houses. Edward III. first induced the Flemings to settle in Kent +and some other parts of England, and from his reign until the last +century the broadcloth manufacture concentrated at Cranbrook. When Queen +Elizabeth once visited the town she was entertained at a manor about a +mile from Cranbrook, and walked thence into the town upon a carpet, laid +down the whole way, made of the same cloth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">[Pg 475]</a></span> that her loyal men of Kent +wore on their backs. In Cranbrook Church were held the fierce +theological disputes of Queen Mary's reign which resulted in the +imprisonment of the Anabaptists and other dissenters by Chancellor +Baker. Over the south porch is the chamber with grated windows known as +"Bloody Baker's Prison." Among the old customs surviving at Cranbrook is +that which strews the path of the newly-wedded couple as they leave the +church with emblems of the bridegroom's trade. The blacksmith walks upon +scraps of iron, the shoemaker on leather parings, the carpenter on +shavings, and the butcher on sheepskins. In an adjacent glen almost +surrounded by woods are the ruins of Sissinghurst, where Chancellor +Baker lived and built the stately mansion of Saxenhurst, from which the +present name of its ruins is derived. The artists Horsley and Webster +lived at Sissinghurst and Cranbrook for many years, and found there +frequent subjects of rustic study. The Sissinghurst ruins are +fragmentary, excepting the grand entrance, which is well preserved. +Baker's Cross survives to mark the spot where the Anabaptists had a +skirmish with their great enemy; and the legend is that he was killed +there, though history asserts that this theological warrior died in his +bed peaceably some time afterwards in London.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 668px;"> +<a name="p475" id="p475"></a> +<img src="images/p475.jpg" width="668" height="450" alt="RUINS OF SISSINGHURST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF SISSINGHURST.</span> +</div> + +<p>Near Lamberhurst, on the Surrey border and on the margin of the Teise, +is the Marquis of Camden's seat at Bayham Abbey. Its ruins include a +church, a gateway, and some of the smaller buildings. It was once highly +attractive, though small, and its ruined beauty is now enhanced by the +care with which the ivy is trained over the walls and the greensward +floor is smoothed. Ralph de Dene founded this abbey about the year 1200, +and after the dissolution Queen Elizabeth granted it to Viscount +Montague. It was bought in the last century by Chief-Justice Pratt, +whose son, the chancellor, became Marquis of Camden. The modern mansion +is a fine one, and from it a five-mile walk through the woods leads to +Tunbridge on the Medway. Chief among the older remains of this +pleasantly-located and popular town is Tunbridge Castle, its keep having +stood upon a lofty mound above the river. This "Norman Mound," as it is +called, is now capped with ruined walls, and an arched passage leads +from it to the upper story of the elaborate gate-house, still in +excellent preservation. Richard Fitzgilbert built the keep, and ruled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476">[Pg 476]</a></span> +the "League of Tunbridge," but his castle, after a long siege by Henry +III., was taken away from his successor, who assumed the name of Gilbert +de Clare. From the De Clares the stronghold passed to the Audleys and +Staffords, and it is now held by Lord Stafford. The gate-house is a fine +structure, square in form, with round towers at each corner. The ruins +are richly adorned with mouldings and other decorations, and within is a +handsome state-apartment. Tunbridge is a quiet town, standing where five +of the tributaries of the Medway come together, over which it has as +many stone bridges. One of these streams, the Tun, gives the town its +name. In St. Stephen's Church, a badly mutilated building with a fine +spire, many of the De Clares are buried, and the quaint half-timbered +building of the "Chequers Inn" helps maintain the picturesque appearance +of the Tunbridge High Street. The spa of Tunbridge Wells, with its +chalybeate springs and baths, is a few miles southward, but the days of +its greatest glory have passed away, though fashion to a moderate extent +still haunts its pump-room and parade. This famous watering-place +stands in a contracted valley enclosed by the three hills known as Mount +Ephraim, Mount Zion, and Mount Pleasant.</p> + + + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p476-1" id="p476-1"></a><a name="p476-2" id="p476-2"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p476-1/476-2"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p476-1.jpg" width="450" height="386" + alt="TUNBRIDGE CASTLE." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p476-2.jpg" width="450" height="307" + alt="PENSHURST PLACE." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">TUNBRIDGE CASTLE.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">PENSHURST PLACE.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p477" id="p477"></a> +<img src="images/p477.jpg" width="450" height="307" alt="PENSHURST CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PENSHURST CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>To the westward of Tunbridge, and in the Medway Valley, is Penshurst,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477">[Pg 477]</a></span> +celebrated as the home of Sir Philip Sidney—a grand, gray old house, +built at many periods, begun in the fourteenth century and not completed +until a few years ago. It is a pretty English picture within a setting +of wooded hills and silver rivers, the pattern from which Sidney drew +his description of "Laconia" in <i>Arcadia</i>. The buildings, particularly +their window-heads, are ornamented with the tracery peculiar to Kent. +The great hall, the earliest of these buildings, has a characteristic +open-timber roof, while its minstrel-gallery, fronted by a wainscot +screen, is ornamented with the badge of the Dudleys, the "bear and +ragged staff." Within these halls are the family portraits of a noble +lineage. Of Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Sidney and heiress of Sir John +Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, Ben Jonson wrote this epitaph:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Underneath this sable hearse</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lies, the subject of all verse,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Death! ere thou hast slain another</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Learned and fair and good as she,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Time shall throw a dart at thee."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Sir Philip Sidney was her brother, born at Penshurst in 1554. The estate +came through various owners, until, in the reign of Henry II., it was +granted to Sir William Sidney, who commanded a wing of the victorious +English at Flodden. Sir Philip, we are told, would have been King of +Poland had not Queen Elizabeth interposed, "lest she should lose the +jewel of her times." Algernon Sidney, beheaded on Tower Hill, was his +descendant. Penshurst is now held by Baron de l'Isle, to whom it has +descended through marriage. On the estate stands the quaint old +Penshurst Church with its ivy-covered porch. The Eden River falls into +the Medway near Penshurst, and alongside its waters is the well-known +castellated residence which still survives from the Tudor days, Hever +Castle, where, it is said, Anne Boleyn was born. Sir Geoffrey Boleyn, +her great-grandfather, who was Lord Mayor of London in the reign of +Henry VI., began Hever Castle, which was completed by his grandson, +Anne's father. It was at Hever that King Henry wooed her. The house is a +quadrangle, with high pitched roofs and gables and surrounded by a +double<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_478" id="Page_478">[Pg 478]</a></span> moat, and is now a farm-house. Here they show the visitor Anne +Boleyn's rooms, and also the chamber where her successor, Anne of +Cleves, is said to have died, though this is doubted. King Henry, +however, seized the estate of Hever from his earlier wife's family, and +granted it to his subsequently discarded consort after he separated from +her. Northward of Tunbridge, and near Sevenoaks, is Knole, the home of +the family of Hon. L. S. Sackville-West, the present British minister at +Washington. It is one of the most interesting baronial mansions in +England, enclosed by a park five miles in circumference.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;"> +<a name="p478-1" id="p478-1"></a> +<img src="images/p478-1.jpg" width="449" height="450" alt="HEVER CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HEVER CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p478-2" id="p478-2"></a> +<img src="images/p478-2.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="GATEWAY OF LEEDS CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF LEEDS CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Proceeding eastward towards the outskirts of the Weald, we come to Leeds +Castle, once the great central fortress of Kent. Standing in a +commanding position, it held the road leading to Canterbury and the +coast, and it dates probably from the Norman Conquest. Its moat +surrounds three islands, from which, as if from the water, rise its +walls and towers. This castle is now the residence of Mr. Wykeham Martin +and contains many valuable antiquities. Also near the eastern border of +the Weald is Tenterden, famous for its church-steeple, which Bishop +Latimer has invested with a good story. The bishop in a sermon said that +Sir Thomas More was once sent into Kent to learn the cause of the +Goodwin Sands and the obstructions to Sandwich Haven. He sum<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_479" id="Page_479">[Pg 479]</a></span>moned +various persons of experience, and among others there "came in before +him an olde man with a white head, and one that was thought to be little +lesse than an hundereth yeares olde. When Maister More saw this aged man +he thought it expedient to hear him say his minde in this matter, for +being so olde a man, it was likely he knew most of any man in that +presence and company. So Maister More called this olde aged man unto +him, and sayd, 'Father, tell me if ye can what is the cause of this +great arising of the sande and shelfs here about this haven, the which +stop it up that no shippes can arrive here. Ye are the oldest man that I +can espie in all this companye, so that, if any man can tell any cause +of it, ye of likelihode can say most in it, or at leastwise more than +any man here assembled.'—'Yea, forsooth, good master,' quod this olde +man, 'for I am wellnigh an hundreth years olde, and no man here in this +companye anything neare unto mine age.'—'Well, then,' quod Maister +More, 'how say you in this matter? What think ye to be the cause of +these shelfs and flattes that stop up Sandwich Haven?'—'Forsooth, syr,' +quoth he, 'I am an olde man; I think that Tenterton Steeple is the cause +of Goodwin Sandes. For I am an olde man, syr,' quod he, 'and I may +remember the building of Tenterton Steeple, and I may remember when +there was no steeple at all there. And before that Tenterton Steeple was +a-building there was no manner of speaking of any flattes or sandes that +stopped the haven; and, therefore, I thinke that Tenterton Steeple is +the cause of the destroying and decaying of Sandwich Haven.' And even so +to my purpose," says Latimer in conclusion, "is preaching of God's worde +the cause of rebellion, as Tenterton Steeple is a cause that Sandwich +Haven is decayed." Now this "olde aged man" had some excuse for his +theory in the Kentish tradition, which says that the abbot of St. +Augustine, who built the steeple, used for it the stones collected to +strengthen the sea-wall of Goodwin Sands, then part of the main land. +The next storm submerged the district, of which the Goodwins are the +remains, and thus the steeple caused the quicksands, according to the +Kentish theory.</p> + + + +<h3>ROCHESTER AND CHATHAM.</h3> + +<p>Proceeding down the Medway, it flows past the city of Rochester, the +river being crowded with vessels and crossed here by a bridge with a +swinging draw. Rochester has a fine old cathedral, rather dilapidated, +and in part restored, but its chief attraction is the castle towering +above the river, its Norman keep forming a tower over seventy feet +square and rising one hundred feet high, its masonry disclosing vast +strength and impressive massiveness. Cobham Hall, the residence of Earl +Darnley, is near Rochester, standing in a nobly wooded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">[Pg 480]</a></span> park seven miles +in circumference. Just north of Cobham Park is Gad's Hill, where Charles +Dickens lived. Beyond Rochester the powerful modern defensive work of +Fort Pitt rises over Chatham to defend the Medway entrance and that +important dockyard. The town is chiefly a bustling street about two +miles long. The dockyard is one of the largest in England, and its +defensive works, as yet incomplete, will when finished make it a +powerful fortress, there being several outlying batteries and works +still to complete. The Gun Wharf contains a large park of artillery, and +there are barracks for three thousand men extending along the river. +There is also an extensive convict-prison with two thousand inmates, who +work upon the dock extension and at making bricks for its construction. +Chatham has several military and naval hospitals. Opposite the dockyard +is Upnor Castle, used as a powder-magazine and torpedo-school. This +castle, the original defensive work of Chatham, was bombarded by Van +Tromp when he came up the Medway in Charles II.'s reign—an audacity for +which he was afterwards punished. The suburb of Brompton is completely +enveloped by the forts and buildings of the post, contains barracks and +hospitals for five thousand men, and is also the head-quarters of the +Royal Engineers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 492px;"> +<a name="p480" id="p480"></a> +<img src="images/p480.jpg" width="492" height="600" alt="ROCHESTER CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROCHESTER CASTLE.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>CANTERBURY.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;"> +<a name="p481" id="p481"></a> +<img src="images/p481.jpg" width="396" height="600" alt="CANTERBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CANTERBURY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Leaving the estuary of the Medway, still farther east in Kent, in the +vale of the Stour, is the ancient cathedral city of Canterbury, whereof +Rimmer says it "is one of the most delightful cities in England for an +antiquary." Its cathedral is approached through the quaint narrow street +of Mercery Lane, where once stood the Checquers Inn that was the resort +of Chaucer's pilgrims. At the end of this lane is the principal entrance +to the cathedral close—Prior Gold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">[Pg 481]</a></span>smith's Gate, commonly called Christ +Church Gate, built in 1517: it was formerly surmounted by turrets, but +these have been partly taken down. The arms of Becket are carved upon +the gateway, and beyond it rise the gray towers of the venerable +cathedral. On the east side of the close is Broad Street, where part of +the old city-walls are still preserved. This was the site of St. +Augustine's monastery, and Lanfranc, the first archbishop after the +Conquest, rebuilt the cathedral church, which was continued by his +successor, Anselm. It was in this church that Becket was murdered in +1170, and "in the glorious choir of Conrad" his corpse was watched by +the monks on the following night. This choir was burned down four years +later, but afterwards rebuilt. The present cathedral consists of work +extending from Lanfranc's time until that of Prior Goldstone in the +fifteenth century, thus exhibiting specimens of all the schools of +Gothic architecture. Canterbury Cathedral is among the largest churches +in England, being five hundred and twenty-two feet long, and its +principal entrance is by the south porch. The nave is striking, and in +the choir the eye is immediately attracted by its great length, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_482" id="Page_482">[Pg 482]</a></span> +hundred and eighty feet—the longest in the kingdom—and by the singular +bend with which the walls at the eastern end approach each other. The +architecture is antique, and the interior produces an impression of +great solemnity. The north-western transept is known as the Transept of +the Martyrdom, where Becket was slain just after Christmas by four +knights in 1170. A small square piece cut out of one of the flagstones +marks the spot, and there still remain the door leading from the +cloisters by which Becket and the knights entered the cathedral, and the +part of the wall in front of which the assassinated archbishop fell. +There is an attractive window in this transept, the gift of Edward IV. +The cathedral is full of monuments, and in Trinity Chapel, behind the +choir, where Becket had sung his first mass when installed as +archbishop, was the location chosen for his shrine, but it long ago +disappeared. Here is also the monument of Edward the Black Prince, with +his effigy in brass, and suspended above it his helmet, shield, +sword-scabbard, and gauntlets. Henry IV. is also buried in Canterbury, +with his second wife, Joan of Navarre; Cardinal Pole is entombed here; +and in the south-western transept is the singular tomb of Langton, +archbishop in the days of Magna Charta, the stone coffin so placed that +the head alone appears through the wall. In the crypt was Becket's tomb, +which remained there until 1220, and at it occurred the penance and +scourging of Henry II. The cathedral has two fine western towers, the +northern one, however, not having been finished until recently. The +central tower, known as "Bell Harry," rises two hundred and thirty-five +feet, and is a magnificent example of Perpendicular Gothic. In the close +are interesting remains of St. Augustine's Monastery, including its fine +entrance-gate and guest-hall, now part of St. Augustine's College, one +of the most elaborate modern structures in Canterbury. The monastery had +been a brewery, but was bought in 1844 by Mr. Beresford Hope and devoted +to its present noble object. On the hill above St. Augustine, mounted by +the Longport road, is the "mother church of England," St. Martin's, +which had been a British Christian chapel before the Saxons came into +the island, and was made over to Augustine. The present building +occupies the site of the one he erected.</p> + +<p>Close to the old city-wall is Canterbury Castle, its venerable Norman +keep being now used as the town gasworks. There are many old houses in +Canterbury, and its history has been traced back twenty-eight hundred +years. It was the Roman colony of Durovernum. Among its quaint houses is +the Falstaff Inn, still a comfortable and popular hostelrie, having a +sign-board supported by iron framework projecting far over the street. +Adjoining is the West Gate—the only one remaining of the six ancient +barriers of the city built by Archbishop Sudbury, who was killed in 1381 +by Wat Tyler's rebels.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">[Pg 483]</a></span> This gate stands on the road from London to +Dover, and guards the bridge over a little branch of the Stour; the +foundations of the lofty flanking round towers are in the river-bed. The +gate-house was long used as a city prison. It was in this weird old city +that Chaucer located many of his Canterbury Tales, that give such an +insight into the customs of his time. The landlord of the Tabard Inn in +Southwark, whose guests were of all ranks, proposed a journey to +Canterbury after dinner, he to adjudge the best story any of them told +on the road. Chaucer's characters were all cleverly drawn and lifelike, +while his innkeeper was a man of evidently high "social status," and, as +he himself said, "wise and well taught." The Stour flows on to the sea, +whose generally low shores are not far away, with the Isle of Thanet to +the northward and London's watering-place of Ramsgate on its outer +verge. Here is Pegwell Bay, noted for its shrimps, and a short distance +westward from Ramsgate is Osengal Hill, from which there is a fine view, +the summit being covered by the graves of the first Saxon settlers of +Thanet. To the northward a short distance is the sister watering-place +of Margate, near the north-eastern extremity of Thanet and ninety miles +from London: its pier is nine hundred feet long. On the extremity of +Thanet, about three miles from Margate, is the great lighthouse of the +North Foreland.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;"> +<a name="p483" id="p483"></a> +<img src="images/p483.jpg" width="409" height="550" alt="FALSTAFF INN, CANTERBURY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FALSTAFF INN, CANTERBURY.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE CINQUE PORTS.</h3> + +<p>Off the mouth of the Stour and the Goodwin Sands, and thence down the +coast to Dover, is the narrowest part of the strait between England and +France. This is a coast, therefore, that needed defence from the +earliest times, and the cliff-castles and earthworks still remaining +show how well it was watched. The Romans carefully fortified the entire +line of cliffs from the Goodwin Sands to Beachy Head beyond Hastings. +There were nine fort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">[Pg 484]</a></span>resses along the coast, which in later times were +placed under control of a high official known as the "Count of the Saxon +Shore," whose duty was to protect this part of England against the +piratical attacks of the Northern sea-rovers. These fortresses commanded +the chief harbors and landing-places, and they marked the position of +the famous Cinque Ports, whose fleet was the germ of the British navy. +They were not thus named until after the Norman Conquest, when John de +Fiennes appeared as the first warden. The Cinque Ports of later English +history were Sandwich, Dover, Hythe, Romney, and Hastings, each of which +had its minor ports or "limbs," such as Deal, Walmer, Folkestone, Rye, +Winchelsea, and Pevensey, that paid tribute to the head port and enjoyed +part of its franchises. The duty of the Cinque Ports was to furnish +fifty-seven ships whenever the king needed them, and he supplied part of +the force to man them. In return the ports were given great freedom and +privileges; their people were known as "barons," were represented in +Parliament, and at every coronation bore the canopy over the sovereign, +carrying it on silver staves having small silver bells attached. The +canopy was usually afterwards presented to Becket's shrine at +Canterbury, and its bearers after the coronation dined in Westminster +Hall at the king's right hand. But the glory of these redoubtable Cinque +Ports has departed. Dover is the only one remaining in active service; +Sandwich, Hythe, and Romney are no longer ports at all; while Hastings +is in little better condition. The tides have gradually filled their +shallow harbors with silt. Of the "limbs," or lesser ports, two, +Winchelsea and Pevensey, are now actually inland towns, the sea having +completely retired from them. Such has also been the fate of Sandwich, +which in the time of Canute was described as the most famous harbor of +England. The coast has greatly changed, the shallow bays beyond the old +shore-line, which is still visible, being raised into green meadows. In +this way the water-course that made Thanet an island has been closed.</p> + + + +<h3>SANDWICH.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p485" id="p485"></a> +<img src="images/p485.jpg" width="600" height="324" alt="THE BARBICAN, SANDWICH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BARBICAN, SANDWICH.</span> +</div> + +<p>This silting up began at a remote era, closing one port after another, +and Sandwich rose upon their decline. It is the most ancient of the +Cinque Ports, and existed as a great harbor until about the year 1500, +when it too began to silt up. In a century it was quite closed, traffic +had passed away, and the town had assumed the fossilized appearance +which is now chiefly remarked about it. Sandwich lingers as it existed +in the Plantagenet days, time having mouldered it into quaint condition. +Trees grow from the tops of the old walls, and also intrude upon the +deep ditch with its round towers at the angles. Large open spaces, +gardens, and orchards lie between the houses within the walls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_485" id="Page_485">[Pg 485]</a></span> of the +city. Going through the old gateway leading to the bridge crossing the +Stour, a little church is found, with its roof tinted with yellowish +lichens, and a bunch of houses below it covered with red, time-worn +tiles, and the still and sleepy river near by. This was the very gate of +that busy harbor which four centuries ago was the greatest in England +and the resort of ships from all parts of the then known world. Its +customs dues yielded $100,000 annually at the small rates imposed, and +the great change that has been wrought can be imagined, as the visitor +looks out over the once famous harbor to find it a mass of green meadows +with venerable trees growing here and there. Sandwich has no main +street, its winding, narrow and irregular passage-ways being left +apparently to chance to seek out their routes, while a mass of houses is +crushed together within the ancient walls, with church-towers as the +only landmarks. These churches give the best testimony to the former +wealth and importance of the town, the oldest being that of St. Clement, +who was the patron of the seafarers. This church is rather large, with a +central tower, while the pavement contains many memorials of the rich +Sandwich merchants in times long agone. St. Peter's Church remains only +as a fragment; its tower has fallen and destroyed the south aisle. It +contains a beautiful tomb erected to one of the former wardens of the +Cinque Ports. The old code of laws of Sandwich, which still survives, +shows close pattern after the Baltic towns of the Hanseatic League. +Female criminals were drowned in the Guestling Brook, which falls into +the Stour; others were buried alive in the "thief duns" near that +stream. Close by the old water-gate of Sandwich is the Barbican, and +from it a short view across the marshes discloses the ancient Roman town +of Rutupiæ and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">[Pg 486]</a></span> closed-up port of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa +are said to have first landed. Here was the oyster-ground of the Romans, +who loved the bivalves as well as their successors of to-day. Of the +walls of the Roman town there still remain extensive traces, disclosing +solid masonry of great thickness, composed of layers of rough boulders +encased externally with regular courses of squared Portland stone. There +are square towers at intervals along these walls, with loopholed +apartments for the sentinels. Vast numbers of Roman coins have been +found in and around this ancient city, over one hundred and forty +thousand, it is said, having come to light, belonging to the decade +between 287 and 297, when Britain was an independent Roman island. +Passing southward along the coast, we skirt the natural harbor of the +Downs, a haven of refuge embracing about twenty square miles of safe +anchorage, and bounded on the east by the treacherous Goodwin Sands, +where Shakespeare tells us "the carcase of many a tall ship lies +buried." It is possible at low water to visit and walk over portions of +these shoals. They are quicksands of such character that if a ship +strikes upon them she will in a few days be completely swallowed up. +Modern precautions, however, have rendered them less formidable than +formerly. The great storm of 1703, that destroyed the Eddystone +Lighthouse, wrecked thirteen war-ships on the Goodwins, nearly all their +crews perishing. As we look out over them from the low shores at Deal +and Walmer below Sandwich, or the chalk-cliffs of Dover beyond, a fringe +of breakers marks their line, while nearer the coast merchant-ships at +anchor usually crowd the Downs. In Walmer Castle was the official +residence of the lord warden of the Cinque Ports, an office that is soon +to be abolished, and which many famous men have held. Here lived Pitt, +and here died the Duke of Wellington, closing his great career.</p> + + + +<h3>DOVER.</h3> + +<p>Beyond, the coast rises up from the low sandy level, and rounding the +South Foreland, on which is a fine electric lighthouse of modern +construction, we come to the chalk-cliffs, on top of which are the dark +towers of Dover Castle, from whose battlements the road descends to the +town along the water's edge and in the valley of the little stream that +gives the place its name—the Dour, which the Celts called the Dwr or +"water," and the Romans the Dubræ. The great keep of Dover dates from +William Rufus's reign, and is one of the many badges left in England of +the Norman Conquest. There are earthworks at Dover, however, of much +earlier origin, built for protection by the Celts and Romans, and +forming part of the chain that guarded this celebrated coast, of which +Dover, being at the narrowest part of the strait, was considered the +key. But no such Norman castle rises elsewhere on these shores. "It was +built by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">[Pg 487]</a></span> evil spirits," writes a Bohemian traveller in the fifteenth +century, "and is so strong that in no other part of Christendom can +anything be found like it." The northern turret on the keep rises four +hundred and sixty-eight feet above the sea at the base of the hill, and +from it can be had a complete observation of both the English and French +coasts for many miles. Within the castle is the ancient Pharos, or +watch-tower, a Roman work. Over upon the opposite side of the harbor is +Shakespeare's Cliff,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"——whose high and bending head</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Looks fearfully on the confined deep."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="p487-1" id="p487-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 334px;"> +<img src="images/p487-1.jpg" width="334" height="450" alt="THE PHAROS, DOVER CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PHAROS, DOVER CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>There is no more impressive view in England than that from the Castle +Hill of Dover, with the green fields and white chalk headlands +stretching far away on either hand fringed by the breakers, the hills +and harbors faintly seen across the strait in France, and the busy town +of Dover lying at the foot of the cliff. This is half watering-place and +half port of transit to the opposite coast. Its harbor is almost +entirely artificial, and there has been much difficulty in keeping it +open. That there is any port there now at all is due mainly to Raleigh's +advice, and there is at present a well-protected harbor of refuge, with +a fine pier extending nearly a half mile into the sea, with a fort at +the outer end. From the top of the hill there looks down upon this pier +the Saluting-Battery Gate of the castle, within which is kept that +curious specimen of ancient gunnery known as "Queen Elizabeth's Pocket +Pistol."</p> + +<p><a name="p487-2" id="p487-2"></a></p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/p487-2.jpg" width="450" height="299" alt="SALUTING BATTERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SALUTING BATTERY.</span> +</div> + +<p>Farther down the coast is the ancient "limb" of Dover, which has grown +into the rival port of Folkestone. This modern port, created to aid the +necessities of travel across the Channel, stands at the north-eastern +corner of the Romney Marsh, a district that has been raised out of the +sea and is steadily increasing in front of the older coast-line, shown +by a range of hills stretching westward from Folkestone. This marsh has +made the sea retreat fully three miles from Hythe, whose name signifies +"the harbor," though it is now an inland village, with a big church +dedicated to St. Leonard, the deliverer of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">[Pg 488]</a></span> captives, who was always +much reverenced in the Cinque Ports, their warlike sailors being +frequently taken prisoner. In a crypt under its chancel is a large +collection of skulls and bones, many of them bearing weapon scars and +cuts, showing them to be relics of the wars. Beyond Hythe the Rother +originally flowed into the Channel, but a great storm in the reign of +Edward I. silted up its outlet, and the river changed its course over +towards Rye, so as to avoid the Cinque port of Romney that was +established on the western edge of the marshes to which it gave the +name. Romney is now simply a village without any harbor, and of the five +churches it formerly had, only the church of St. Nicholas remains as a +landmark among the fens that have grown up around it, an almost treeless +plain intersected by dykes and ditches.</p> + + + +<h3>RYE AND WINCHELSEA.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;"> +<a name="p488" id="p488"></a> +<img src="images/p488.jpg" width="440" height="600" alt="OLD HOUSES, RYE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD HOUSES, RYE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The unpicturesque coast is thrust out into the sea to the point at +Dungeness where the lighthouse stands a beacon in a region full of peril +to the navigator; and then the coast again recedes to the cove wherein +is found the quaint old town of Rye, formerly an important "limb" of the +Cinque port of Hastings. It has about the narrowest and crookedest +streets in England, and the sea is two miles away from the line of steep +and broken rock along which "Old Rye" stretches. The ancient houses, +however, have a sort of harbor, formed by the junction of the three +rivers, the Rother, Brede, and Tillingham, and thus Rye supports quite a +fleet of fishing-craft. Thackeray has completely reproduced in <i>Denis +Duval</i> the ancient character of this place, with its smuggling +atmosphere varied with French touches given by the neighborhood of the +Continent. Rye stands on one side of a marshy lowland, and Winchelsea +about three miles distant on the other side. The original Winchelsea, we +are told, was on lower ground, and, after frequent floodings, was +finally destroyed by an inundation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489">[Pg 489]</a></span> in 1287. King Edward I. founded the +new town upon the hill above. It enjoyed a lucrative trade until the +fifteenth century, when, like most of the others, its prosperity was +blighted by the sea's retiring. The harbor then became useless, the +inhabitants left, the houses gradually disappeared, and, the historian +says, the more massive buildings remaining "have a strangely spectral +character, like owls seen by daylight." Three old gates remain, +including the Strand Gate, where King Edward nearly lost his life soon +after the town was built. It appears that the horse on which he was +riding, frightened by a windmill, leaped over the town-wall, and all +gave up the king for dead. Luckily, however, he kept his saddle, and the +horse, after slipping some distance down the incline, was checked, and +Edward rode safely back through the gate. There is a fine church in +Winchelsea—St. Thomas of Canterbury—within which are the tombs of +Gervase Alard and his grandson Stephen. They were the most noted sailors +of their time, and Gervase in 1300 was admiral of the fleet of the +Cinque Ports, his grandson Stephen appearing as admiral in 1324. These +were the earliest admirals known in England, the title, derived from the +Arabic <i>amir</i>, having been imported from Sicily. Gervase was paid two +shillings a day. At the house in Winchelsea called the "Friars" lived +the noted highwaymen George and Joseph Weston, who during the last +century plundered in all directions, and then atoned for it by the +exercise of extensive charity in that town: one of them actually became +a churchwarden.</p> + + + +<h3>HASTINGS AND PEVENSEY.</h3> + +<p>The cliffs come out to the edge of the sea at Winchelsea, and it is a +pleasant walk along them to Hastings, with its ruined castle, the last +of the Cinque Ports. This was never as important a port as the others, +but the neighboring Sussex forests made it a convenient place for +shipbuilding. The castle ruins are the only antiques at Hastings, which +has been gradually transformed into a modern watering-place in a pretty +situation. Its eastern end, however, has undergone little transition, +and is still filled with the old-fashioned black-timber houses of the +fishermen. The battle of Hastings, whereby William the Conqueror planted +his standard on English soil, was fought about seven miles inland. His +ships debarked their troops all along this coast, while St. Valéry +harbor in France, from which he sailed, is visible in clear weather +across the Channel. William himself landed at Pevensey, farther +westward, where there is an old fortress of Roman origin located in the +walls of the ancient British-Roman town that the heathen Saxons had +long before attacked, massacring the entire population. Pevensey still +presents within these walls the Norman castle of the Eagle Honour, named +from the powerful house of Aquila once possessing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">[Pg 490]</a></span> it. The Bayeux +Tapestry depicts the landing of William at Pevensey, which was a "limb" +of Hastings. Its Roman name was Anderida, the walls enclosing an +irregular oval, the castle within being a pentagon, with towers at the +angles. Beyond it the Sussex coast juts out at the bold white chalk +promontory of Beachy Head.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;"> +<a name="p490" id="p490"></a> +<img src="images/p490.jpg" width="409" height="600" alt="HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>A short distance inland from Pevensey is the great Sussex cattle-market +at Hailsham, where the old Michelham Priory is used as a farm-house and +its crypt as a dairy. Not far away is Hurstmonceux Castle, a relic of +the times of Henry VI., and built entirely of brick, being probably the +largest English structure of that material constructed since the Roman +epoch. Only the shell of the castle remains, an interesting and +picturesque specimen of the half fortress, half mansion of the latter +days of feudalism. The main gateway on the southern front has flanking +towers over eighty feet high, surmounted by watch-turrets from which the +sea is visible. The walls are magnificently overgrown with ivy, +contrasting beautifully with the red brick. Great trunks of ivy grow up +from the dining-room, and all the inner courts are carpeted with green +turf, with hazel-bushes appearing here and there among the ruined walls. +A fine row of old chestnuts stands beyond the moat, and from the towers +are distant views of Beachy Head, its white chalk-cliffs making one of +the most prominent landmarks of the southern coast.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_491" id="Page_491">[Pg 491]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3>BRIGHTON.</h3> + +<p>Westward of Beachy Head is the noted watering-place of this southern +coast, Brighton, the favorite resort of the Londoners, it being but +fifty-one miles south of the metropolis. This was scarcely known as a +fashionable resort until about 1780, when George IV., then the Prince of +Wales, became its patron. Taken altogether, its large size, fine +buildings, excellent situation, and elaborate decorations make Brighton +probably the greatest sea-coast watering-place in Europe. It stretches +for over three miles along the Channel upon a rather low shore, though +in some places the cliffs rise considerably above the beach. Almost the +entire sea-front, especially to the eastward, is protected by a strong +sea-wall of an average height of sixty feet and twenty-three feet thick +at the base. This wall cost $500,000 to build, and it supports a +succession of terraces available for promenade and roadway. In front the +surf rolls in upon a rather steep pebbly beach, upon which are the +bathing-machines and boats. Along the beach, and behind the sea-wall, +Brighton has a grand drive, the Marine Parade, sixty feet wide, +extending for three miles along the shore and in front of the buildings, +with broad promenades on the sea-side ornamented with lawns and gardens, +and on the other side a succession of houses of such grand construction +as to resemble rows of palaces, built of the cream-colored Portland +stone. The houses of the town extend far back on the hillsides and into +the valleys, and the permanent population of 130,000 is largely +augmented during the height of the season—October, November, and +December. Enormous sums have been expended upon the decoration of this +great resort, and its Marine Parade, when fashion goes there in the +autumn, presents a grand scene. From this parade two great piers extend +out into the water, and are used for promenades, being, like the entire +city front, brilliantly illuminated at night. The eastern one is the +Chain Pier, built in 1823 at a cost of $150,000, and extending eleven +hundred and thirty-six feet into the sea. The West Pier, constructed +about fifteen years ago, is somewhat broader, and stretches out eleven +hundred and fifteen feet. Each of the piers expands into a wide platform +at the outer end, that of the West Pier being one hundred and forty feet +wide, and here bands play and there are brilliant illuminations. Both +piers are of great strength, and only four cents admission is charged to +them. Prince George built at Brighton a royal pavilion in imitation of +the pagodas of the Indies, embosomed in trees and surrounded by gardens. +This was originally the royal residence, but in 1850 the city bought it +for $265,000 as a public assembly-room. The great attraction of +Brighton, however, is the aquarium, the largest in the world, opened in +1872. It is constructed in front of the Parade,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_492" id="Page_492">[Pg 492]</a></span> and, sunken below its +level, stretches some fourteen hundred feet along the shore, and is one +hundred feet wide, being surmounted by gardens and footwalks. It is +set at this low level to facilitate the movement of the sea-water, and +its design is to represent the fishes and marine animals as nearly as +possible in their native haunts and habits, to do which, and not startle +the fish, the visitors go through darkened passages, and are thus +concealed from them, all the light coming in by refraction through the +water. Their actions are thus natural, and they move about with perfect +freedom, some of the tanks being of enormous size. Here swim schools of +herring, mackerel, and porpoises as they do out at sea, the octopus +gyrates his arms, and almost every fish that is known to the waters of +that temperature is exhibited in thoroughly natural action. The tanks +have been prepared most elaborately. The porpoises and larger fish have +a range of at least one hundred feet, and rocks, savannahs, and +everything else they are accustomed to are reproduced. The visitors walk +through vaulted passages artistically decorated, and there is music to +gladden the ear. This aquarium also shows the processes of +fish-hatching, and has greatly increased the world's stock of knowledge +as to fish-habits. The tanks hold five hundred thousand gallons of fresh +and salt water.</p> + +<p>Back of Brighton are the famous South Downs, the chalk-hills of Sussex, +which stretch over fifty miles parallel to the coast, and have a breadth +of four or five miles, while they rise to an average height of five +hundred feet, their highest point being Ditchling Beacon, north of +Brighton, rising eight hundred and fifty-eight feet. They disclose +picturesque scenery, and the railways from London wind through their +valleys and dart into the tunnels under their hills, whose tops disclose +the gyrating sails of an army of windmills, while over their slopes roam +the flocks of well-tended sheep that ultimately become the the +much-prized South Down mutton. The chalk-cliffs bordering the Downs +slope to the sea, and in front are numerous little towns, for the whole +coast is dotted with watering-places. A few miles east of Brighton is +the port of New Haven on a much-travelled route across the Channel to +Dieppe.</p> + + + +<h3>WISTON PARK.</h3> + +<p>To the westward of Brighton and in the South Downs is the antique +village of Steyning, near which is Rev. John Goring's home at Wiston +Manor, an Elizabethan mansion of much historical interest and commanding +views of extreme beauty. This is one of the most attractive places in +the South Downs, a grand park with noble trees, herds of deer wandering +over the grass, and the great ring of trees on top of Chanctonbury Hill, +planted in 1760. Charles Goring, the father of the present owner, +planted these trees in his early life,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_493" id="Page_493">[Pg 493]</a></span> and sixty-eight years +afterwards, in 1828, he then being eighty-five years old, addressed +these lines to the hill:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"How oft around thy Ring, sweet Hill, a boy I used to play,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And form my plans to plant thy top on some auspicious day!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How oft among thy broken turf with what delight I trod!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With what delight I placed those twigs beneath thy maiden sod!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And then an almost hopeless wish would creep within my breast:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">'Oh, could I live to see thy top in all its beauty dressed!'</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That time's arrived; I've had my wish, and lived to eighty-five;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I'll thank my God, who gave such grace, as long as e'er I live;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Still when the morning sun in spring, whilst I enjoy my sight,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall gild thy new clothed Beech and sides, I'll view thee with delight."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The house originally belonged to Earl Godwine, and has had a strange +history. One of its lords was starved to death at Windsor by King John; +Llewellyn murdered another at a banquet; a third fell from his horse and +was killed. Later, it belonged to the Shirleys, one of whom married a +Persian princess; it has been held by the Gorings for a long period. +This interesting old mansion has a venerable church adjoining it, +surmounted by an ivy-clad tower. Chanctonbury Hill rises eight hundred +and fourteen feet, and its ring of trees, which can be seen for many +miles, is planted on a circular mound surrounded by a trench, an ancient +fortification. From it there is a grand view over Surrey and Sussex and +to the sea beyond—a view stretching from Windsor Castle to Portsmouth, +a panorama of rural beauty that cannot be excelled.</p> + + + +<h3>ARUNDEL CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p494-1" id="p494-1"></a> +<img src="images/p494-1.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="ARUNDEL CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ARUNDEL CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p494-2" id="p494-2"></a> +<img src="images/p494-2.jpg" width="500" height="388" alt="RUINS OF COWDRAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF COWDRAY.</span> +</div> + +<p>The little river Arun flows from the South Downs into the sea, and +standing upon its banks is Arundel Castle, which gives the title of earl +to the unfortunate infant son and heir of the Duke of Norfolk, whose +blindness shows that even the greatest wealth and highest rank do not +command all things in this world. A village of two steep streets mounts +up the hill from the river-bank to the castle, which has unusual +interest from its striking position and the long line of its noble +owners—the Fitzalans and Howards. The extensive ramparts surround a +ponderous keep and there are fine views in all directions. This is a +favorite home of the Duke of Norfolk, and is surrounded by an extensive +park. The tombs of his ancestors are in the old parish church of St. +Nicholas, built in the fourteenth century, alongside which the duke has +recently constructed a magnificent Roman Catholic church in Decorated +Gothic at a cost of $500,000. The architect of this church was Mr. +Hansom, who invented for the benefit of London the Hansom cab. Westward +of Arundel is Chiches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">[Pg 494]</a></span>ter, distinguished for its cathedral and cross, +the ancient Regnum of the Romans. The cathedral, recently restored, is +peculiar from having five aisles with a long and narrow choir. Here is +buried Richard Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel in the fourteenth century. This +cathedral has a consistory court over the southern porch, reached by a +spiral staircase, from which a sliding door opens into the Lollards' +Dungeon. It has a detached campanile or bell-tower rising on the +north-western side, the only example in England of such an attachment to +a cathedral. The Chichester market-cross, standing at the intersection +of four streets in the centre of the town, is four hundred years old. In +front of Chichester, but nine miles away,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_495" id="Page_495">[Pg 495]</a></span> the low peninsula of Selsey +Bill projects into the sea and is the resort of innumerable wild-fowl. +Three miles out of town is Goodwood, where the races are held. Goodwood +is the seat of the Duke of Richmond and Gordon, who has a fine park, and +a valuable picture-gallery particularly rich in historical portraits. At +Bigner, twelve miles from Chichester over the chalk-downs, are the +remains of an extensive Roman villa, the buildings and pavements having +been exhumed for a space of six hundred by three hundred and fifty feet. +The Rother, a tributary of the Arun, flows down from Midhurst, where are +the ruins of Cowdray, an ancient Tudor stronghold that was burned in +1793, its walls being now finely overgrown with ivy. Dunford House, near +Midhurst, was the estate presented to Richard Cobden by the "Anti-Corn +Law League."</p> + + + +<h3>SELBORNE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p495" id="p495"></a> +<img src="images/p495.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="GILBERT WHITE'S HOUSE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GILBERT WHITE'S HOUSE.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="p496-1" id="p496-1"></a></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 363px;"> +<img src="images/p496-1.jpg" width="363" height="450" alt="SUN-DIAL IN GILBERT WHITE'S GARDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SUN-DIAL IN GILBERT WHITE'S GARDEN.</span> +</div> +<p><br /><br />Crossing from Midhurst over the border into Hampshire, the village of +Selborne is reached, one of the smallest but best known places in +England from the care and minuteness with which Rev. Gilbert White has +described it in his <i>Natural History of Selborne</i>. It is a short +distance south-east of Alton and about fifty miles south-west of London, +while beyond the village the chalk-hills rise to a height of three +hundred feet, having a long hanging wood on the brow, known as the +Hanger, made up mainly of beech trees. The village is a single +straggling street three-quarters of a mile in length, in a sheltered +valley and running parallel with the Hanger. At each end of Selborne +there rises a small rivulet, the one to the south becoming a branch of +the Arun and flowing into the Channel, while the other is a branch of +the Wey, which falls into the Thames. This is the pleasant little place, +located in a broad parish, that Gilbert White has made famous, writing +of everything con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_496" id="Page_496">[Pg 496]</a></span>cerning it, but more especially of its natural history +and peculiarities of soil, its trees, fruits, and animal life. He was +born at Selborne in 1720, and died there in 1793, in his seventy-third +year. He was the father of English natural history, for much of what he +wrote was equally applicable to other parts of the kingdom. His modest +house, now overgrown with ivy, is one of the most interesting buildings +in the village, and in it they still keep his study about as he left it, +with the close-fronted bookcase protected by brass wire-netting, to +which hangs his thermometer just where he originally placed it. The +house has been little if any altered since he was carried to his last +resting-place. He is described by those who knew him as "a little thin, +prim, upright man," a quiet, unassuming, but very observing country +parson, who occupied his time in watching and recording the habits of +his parishioners, quadruped as well as feathered. At the end of the +garden is still kept his sun-dial, the lawn around which is one of the +softest and most perfect grass carpets in England.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p496-2" id="p496-2"></a> +<img src="images/p496-2.jpg" width="600" height="452" alt="SELBORNE CHURCH, FROM THE ALTON ROAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SELBORNE CHURCH, FROM THE ALTON ROAD.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The pleasant little church over which White presided is as modest and +almost as attractive as his house. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, +and measures fifty-four by forty-seven feet, being almost as broad as it +is long, consisting of three aisles, and making no pretensions, he says, +to antiquity. It was built in Henry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">[Pg 497]</a></span> VII.'s reign, is perfectly plain +and unadorned, and without painted glass, carved work, sculpture, or +tracery. Within it, however, are low, squat, thick pillars supporting +the roof, which he thinks are Saxon and upheld the roof of a former +church, which, falling into decay, was rebuilt on these massive props +because their strength had preserved them from the injuries of time. +They support blunt Gothic arches. He writes that he remembers when the +beams of the middle aisle were hung with garlands in honor of young +women of the parish who died virgins. Within the chancel is his memorial +on the wall, and he rests in an unassuming grave in the churchyard. The +belfry is a square embattled tower forty-five feet high, built at the +western end, and he tells pleasantly how the three old bells were cast +into four in 1735, and a parishioner added a fifth one at his own +expense, marking its arrival by a high festival in the village, +"rendered more joyous by an order from the donor that the treble bell +should be fixed bottom upward in the ground and filled with punch, of +which all present were permitted to partake." The porch of the church to +the southward is modern and shelters a fine Gothic doorway, whose +folding doors are evidently of ancient construction. The vicarage stands +alongside to the westward, an old Elizabethan house.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;"> +<a name="p497" id="p497"></a> +<img src="images/p497.jpg" width="435" height="550" alt="ROCKY LANE LEADING TO ALTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROCKY LANE LEADING TO ALTON.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<a name="p498" id="p498"></a> +<img src="images/p498.jpg" width="365" height="500" alt="THE WISHING STONE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE WISHING STONE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Among the singular things in Selborne to which White calls attention are +two rocky hollow lanes, one of which leads to Alton. These roads have, +by the traffic of ages and the running of water, been worn down through +the first stratum of freestone and partly through the second, so that +they look more like water-courses than roads. In many places they have +thus been sunken as much as eighteen feet beneath the level of the +fields alongside, so that torrents rush along them in rainy weather, +with miniature cascades on either hand that are frozen into icicles in +winter. These lanes, thus rugged and gloomy, affright the timid, but, +gladly writes our author, they "delight the naturalist with their +various botany." The old mill at Selborne, with its dilapidated +windsails, presents a picturesque appearance, and up on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_498" id="Page_498">[Pg 498]</a></span> the +chalk-hills, where there is a far-away view over the pleasant vale +beyond, is the Wishing Stone, erected on a little mound among the trees. +All these things attracted our author's close attention, and as his +parish was over thirty miles in circumference, as may be supposed his +investigations covered a good deal of ground. His work is chiefly +written in the form of a series of letters to friends, and he +occasionally digresses over the border into the neighboring parishes to +speak of their peculiarities or attractions. They all had in his day +little churches, and the parish church of Greatham, not far from +Selborne, is a specimen of the antique construction of the diminutive +chapels that his ancestors handed down to their children for places of +worship, each surrounded by its setting of ancient gravestones. The +<i>History of Selborne</i> shows how the country parson in the olden time, +whose flock was small, parish isolated, and visitors few, amused +himself; but he has left an enduring monument that grows the more +valuable as the years advance. In fact, it is a text-book of natural +history; and so complete have been his observations that he not only +describes all the plants and animals, birds, rocks, soils, and +buildings, but he also has space to devote to the cats of Selborne, and +to tell how they prowl in the roadway and mount the tiled roofs to +capture the chimney swallows. How he loved his home is shown in the poem +with which his work begins. We quote the opening stanza, and also some +other characteristic portions of this ode, which describes the +attractions of Selborne in the last century:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"See Selborne spreads her boldest beauties round,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The varied valley, and the mountain ground</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wildly majestic: what is all the pride</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_499" id="Page_499">[Pg 499]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of flats with loads of ornament supplied?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unpleasing, tasteless, impotent expense,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Compared with Nature's rude magnificence.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Oft on some evening, sunny, soft, and still,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Muse shall hand thee to the beech-grown hill,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To spend in tea the cool, refreshful hour,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where nods in air the pensile, nest-like bower;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Or where the Hermit hangs his straw-clad cell,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Emerging gently from the leafy dell:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Romantic spot! from whence in prospect lies</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whate'er of landscape charms our feasting eyes;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pointed spire, the hall, the pasture-plain,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The russet fallow, and the golden grain;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The breezy lake that sheds a gleaming light,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till all the fading picture fails the sight....</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Now climb the steep, drop now your eye below,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where round the verdurous village orchards blow;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There, like a picture, lies my lowly seat,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A rural, sheltered, unobserved retreat.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Me far above the rest, Selbornian scenes.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The pendant forest and the mountain-greens,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Strike with delight: ... There spreads the distant view</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That gradual fades, till sunk in misty blue."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;"> +<a name="p499" id="p499"></a> +<img src="images/p499.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="GREATHAM CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GREATHAM CHURCH.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>WINCHESTER.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 536px;"> +<a name="p500" id="p500"></a> +<img src="images/p500.jpg" width="536" height="600" alt="CARDINAL BEAUFORT'S GATE AND ANCIENT BREWERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CARDINAL BEAUFORT'S GATE AND ANCIENT BREWERY.</span> +</div> + +<p>About sixteen miles south-west of Selborne is the chief city of +Hampshire and one of the great historical cities of the +realm—Winchester—built on the side of a chalk-hill rising from the +valley of the Itchen, a stream that was Izaak Walton's favorite +fishing-ground. This was the Roman Venta Belgarum, and was made an +episcopal see in the seventh century. Nothing remains of the earlier +cathedral, which was replaced by the present structure, begun in the +eleventh century, but not finished until the fifteenth. Winchester +Cathedral is five hundred and sixty feet long, and its nave is in the +highest degree impressive, being the longest in England, extending two +hundred and sixty-five feet. The western front has recently been +restored. Within the cathedral are many noted tombs, including that of +William Rufus, and above the altar is West's painting of the "Raising of +Lazarus." In the presbytery are six mortuary chests containing the +remains of kings and bishops of the ancient Saxon kingdom of Wessex. St. +Swithin's shrine was the treasure of Winchester: he was bishop in the +ninth century and the especial patron of the city and cathedral. +Originally interred in the churchyard, his remains were removed to the +golden shrine given by King Edgar, though tradition says this was +delayed by forty days of rain, which is the foundation of the popular +belief<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_500" id="Page_500">[Pg 500]</a></span> in the continuance of wet weather after St. Swithin's Day, July +15. In the Lady Chapel, Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain in +1554, and the chair on which she sat is still preserved there. The +cathedral close is extremely picturesque, surrounded by houses of +considerable antiquity. Among the prelates of Winchester were William of +Wykeham and Cardinal Beaufort: the former founded St. Mary's College +there in the fourteenth century—a fine structure, with the picturesque +ruins of the old palace of the bishops, Wolvesey Castle, near by; the +latter, in the fifteenth century, built Cardinal Beaufort's Tower and +Gateway in the southern suburbs, on the Southampton road, when he +revived the foundation of St. Cross. This noble gateway, when approached +from the city, is seen through the foliage, with a background of quaint +high chimneys, church, and green leaves. The river Itchen flows +alongside the road, half hidden among the trees. The St. Cross Hospital, +with the thirteen brethren still living there in their black gowns and +silver crosses, gives a vivid picture of ancient England. Adjoining the +gateway on the left hand is the brewery, formerly known as the "Hundred +Men's Hall," because a hundred of the poorest men in Winchester were +daily entertained there at dinner, and, as the repast was provided on a +bountiful scale, the guests always had ample provisions to carry home to +their families. The tower and surrounding buildings are excellent +examples of the domestic architecture of the fifteenth century. In this +hospital the custom still prevails of giving the wayfarer a horn of ale +and dole of bread, the ale being brewed on the premises and of the same +kind made there centuries ago. The old West Gate of Winchester, the only +survivor of the city's four gates, is a well-preserved specimen of the +military architecture of the time of Henry III. Winchester Castle was +originally built by William the Norman, and continued a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_501" id="Page_501">[Pg 501]</a></span> residence of +the kings until Henry III., but of it little remains beyond the hall and +some subterranean fragments. Here hangs on the wall what is said to be +the top of King Arthur's round table. There is a beautiful cross in +Winchester, recently restored, and originally erected on the High Street +by Cardinal Beaufort, who seems to have spent much of his vast and +ill-gotten wealth in splendid architectural works. Shakespeare +introduces him in <i>Henry VI.</i>, and in the scene that closes his career +truthfully depicts him:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"If thou be'st death, I'll give thee England's treasure,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Enough to purchase such another island.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So thou wilt let me live and feel no pain."</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<h3>THE NEW FOREST.</h3> + +<p>The Itchen flows into the estuary of Southampton Water, and from its +western shores spreads far away the domain of the New Forest, stretching +down into the south-western part of Hampshire. This is a remnant of the +forests that once covered the greater part of the island, and is the +most extensive left in the English lowlands. It was made a royal forest +by William the Norman, and thus continues to the present time, the +largest tract of uncultivated land and one of the finest examples of +woodland scenery in the kingdom. It covers almost the whole surface +between Southampton Water and the Avon, which is the western border of +Hampshire, but in recent years its area has been gradually curtailed, +though its extent has never been accurately measured. Stretching about +fifteen miles from east to west and twenty miles from north-west to +south-east, it includes about ninety-one thousand acres, of which +twenty-six thousand belong to private landowners, two thousand are the +absolute property of the Crown, and the remaining sixty-three thousand +acres have common and other rights due to a large number of tenants, +though the title is in the Crown. About twenty-five thousand acres are +covered with timber, but only five thousand acres of this is old timber, +the remainder having been planted with trees within the last two hundred +years. The surface is gently undulating, becoming hilly in the northern +parts; the soil is usually arid, and the scenery discloses wide expanses +of heathery moor, often marshy in the lower grounds, with here and there +copses that gradually thicken into woodland as the true forest district +is approached. The chief trees are oak and beech, which attain to noble +proportions, while there are occasional tufts of holly and undergrowth.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p502" id="p502"></a> +<img src="images/p502.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="NEW FOREST, FROM BRAMBLE HILL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">NEW FOREST, FROM BRAMBLE HILL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p503" id="p503"></a> +<img src="images/p503.jpg" width="500" height="442" alt="RUFUS'S STONE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUFUS'S STONE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Almost in the centre of the forest is the village of Lyndhurst, regarded +as the best point of departure for its survey—a hamlet with one long +street and houses dotted about on the flanks of a hill, the summit of +which is adorned by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502">[Pg 502]</a></span> a newly-built church of red brick with bath-stone +dressings. Within this church is Sir Frederick Leighton's fresco of the +"Wise and Foolish Virgins." In the ponderous "Queen's House," near the +church, lives the chief official of the forest, and here are held the +courts. Formerly, this official was always a prince royal and known as +the lord warden, but now his powers are vested in the "First +Commissioner of Woods and Forests:" here the poacher was in former days +severely punished. The New Forest was originally not only a place for +the king's pleasure in the chase, but it also furnished timber for the +royal navy, though this fell into disuse in the Civil War. Subsequently +parts were replanted, and William III. planted by degrees six thousand +acres with trees. The great storm of 1703 uprooted four thousand fine +trees, and then again there was partial neglect, and it was not until +within a half century that a serious effort was made to fully restore +the timber. There have now been ten thousand acres planted: a nursery +for young trees has been established, and about seven hundred acres are +annually planted, the young oaks being set out between Scotch firs, +whose more rapid growth protects the saplings from the gales, and when +they are able to stand alone the firs are thinned out. About four miles +north of Lyndhurst and beyond Minstead is Rufus's Stone. Around Minstead +Manor the land has long been enclosed and cultivated, and looks as +little like a wild forest as can be imagined, while northward the ground +rises to the top of Stony Cross Hill, disclosing one of the finest views +in this region, looking down over a wide valley, with cultivated fields +on its opposite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">[Pg 503]</a></span> sides and woodland beyond, gently shelving to +Southampton Water, of which occasional glimpses may be had. There is an +abundance of woodland everywhere, checquered by green lawns. At our back +is the enclosed park, within which some intrenchments mark the site of +Castle Malwood, where tradition says that William Rufus passed the night +previous to his death. The king just before dawn aroused his attendants +by a sudden outcry, and rushing into the chamber they found him in such +agitation that they remained there until morning. He had dreamed he was +being bled, and that the stream from his veins was so copious that it +rose to the sky, obscuring the sun. The daylight also brought other +omens: a foreign monk at the court had been dreaming, and saw the king +enter a church, seize the rood, and rend it with his teeth; the holy +image at first submitted to the insult, then struck down the king, who, +while prostrate, vomited fire and smoke which masked the stars. The +king, whose courage had returned with daylight, made light of the monk's +tale, though he did not go to hunt as usual that morning, but after +dinner, having taken liberal drafts of wine, rode out with a small +party, including Walter Tyril, lord of Pontoise, lately arrived from +Normandy. They hunted throughout the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_504" id="Page_504">[Pg 504]</a></span> afternoon, and near sunset the +king and Tyril found themselves alone in a glade below the castle. A +stag bounded by, and the king unsuccessfully shot at him; then another +ran past, when Tyril shot his arrow, bidden, as tradition says, by the +king "in the devil's name." The arrow struck William Rufus full in the +chest, and he dropped lifeless. Tyril, putting spurs to his horse, +galloped westward to a ford across the Avon into Dorsetshire. Soon after +a charcoal-burner named Purkis, whose descendants still live in the New +Forest, came past, found the king's body, and, placing it on his cart, +bore it, still bleeding, to Winchester. Tyril's arrow had glanced from a +tree, which long existed, but, decaying centuries afterward, Rufus's +Stone was set up to mark the spot. This became mutilated, and has been +enclosed in an iron casing, with copies of the original inscriptions on +the outside. It is now a cast-iron pillar about five feet high, with a +grating at the top, through which may be seen the stone within. It +stands on a gentle slope, not quite at the bottom of the valley, with +pretty scenery around. Tyril got his horse shod at the Avon ford, for +which offence the blacksmith afterwards paid an annual fine to the +Crown. He was not very hotly pursued, however, and made his escape into +Normandy, where he sturdily denied that the arrow was shot by him at +all, laying the blame to a conspiracy of the king's enemies, of whom he +had many.</p> + +<p>Southward from Lyndhurst the road goes over undulating ground and +through magnificent oaks and beeches to Brockenhurst, past a heronry at +Vinney Ridge. This section contains some of the finest trees in the +forest, with plenty of dense holly and an occasional yew. The ground +discloses the bracken fern, and gray lichen clings thickly to the trunks +and branches of the trees. The woodland views along this road are +splendid, and only need the wild animals of a former era to bring back +the forest-life of mediæval times. Off to the eastward, standing on the +little river Exe, are the foliage-clad ruins of Beaulieu Abbey, founded +by King John, and now held by the Duke of Buccleuch, who has a mansion +near by. Here was buried John's mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and here +came the widow of Warwick the King-maker, after the battle of Barnet, +for sanctuary. Perkin Warbeck when defeated also took refuge at +Beaulieu, where he surrendered on promise of mercy. The abbey is a wreck +now, for after its dissolution we are told that its stones "went to +build Henry VIII.'s martello tower at Hurst, and its lead to repair +Calshot" on Southampton Water, while the gate-house serves as the +entrance to the modern ducal mansion, and the refectory is the parish +church. Here are the tombs of Mary Dore and Mary Do. The former was a +noted witch, "who could transform herself into a hare or cat, and +afflict or cure all the cattle in the neighborhood." The latter is +credited with more celestial attributes in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505">[Pg 505]</a></span> the obituary that survives +her than were allotted her unfortunate companion; and the acrostic +inscription on her tomb is often quoted:</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Merciless fate (to our greate griefe and woe)</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A prey hath here made of our deere Moll Do,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rapte up in duste and hid in earthe and claye,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet live her soule and virtues now and aye;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Death is a debt all owe which must be paide</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh that she knew, and of it was not afraide!"</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p505" id="p505"></a> +<img src="images/p505.jpg" width="500" height="498" alt="BROCKENHURST CHURCH, WITH THE FAMOUS YEW AND OAK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BROCKENHURST CHURCH, WITH THE FAMOUS YEW AND OAK.</span> +</div> + +<p>To the westward of Beaulieu is Brockenhurst, a pretty forest village, +along whose main street we are told the deer formerly galloped on a +winter's night, to the great excitement of all the dogs therein. The +forest almost blends with the village-green, and on a low artificial +mound stands its church, with traces of almost every style of +architecture since the Conquest, and guarded by a famous yew and oak. At +Boldre, near Brockenhurst, lived Rev. W. Gilpin, the vicar of the +parish, the author of several works on sylvan scenery, and reputed to be +the original of the noted <i>Dr. Syntax</i>, who made such a humorous "Tour +in Search of the Picturesque." He now lies at rest under a maple +alongside his church, in which Southey was married. Ringwood is the +chief town of the western forest-border upon the level plain that forms +the Avon Valley where Tyril escaped across the ford. It is not a very +interesting place. A little way up the river, near Horton, "King +Monmouth" was captured after Sedgemoor, and from Ringwood he wrote the +abject letters begging his life from King James, who turned a deaf ear +to all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_506" id="Page_506">[Pg 506]</a></span> entreaty. Alice Lisle, who was judicially murdered by Judge +Jeffreys for sheltering two refugees from that battle, also lived at +Moyle Court, near Ringwood. The chief inn is the "White Hart," named in +memory of Henry VII.'s hunt in the New Forest, where the game, a white +hart, showed fine running throughout the day, and ultimately stood at +bay in a meadow near the village, when, at the intercession of the +ladies, the hounds were called off, the hart secured, given a gold +collar, and taken to Windsor. The inn where the king partook of +refreshments that day had its sign changed to the White Hart. It was at +Bisterne, below Ringwood, that Madonie of Berkeley Castle slew the +dragon, for which feat King Edward IV. knighted him—a tale that the +incredulous will find confirmed by the deed still preserved in Berkeley +Castle which records the event, confers the knighthood, and gives him +permission to wear the dragon as his badge.</p> + + + +<h3>CHRISTCHURCH.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p506" id="p506"></a> +<img src="images/p506.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="THE PRIORY, FROM THE QUAY, AND PLACE MILLS, +CHRISTCHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PRIORY, FROM THE QUAY, AND PLACE MILLS, +CHRISTCHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<div class='centered'> +<a name="p507" id="p507"></a><a name="p508" id="p508"></a> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" summary="p507/508"> +<tr> +<td align='center'><img src="images/p507.jpg" width="500" height="540" + alt="CHRISTCHURCH." /><br /> + </td> + +<td align='center'><img src="images/p508.jpg" width="520" height="540" + alt="OLD NORMAN HOUSE AND VIEW FROM THE MINSTER, +CHRISTCHURCH." /><br /> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="caption">CHRISTCHURCH.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="caption">OLD NORMAN HOUSE AND VIEW FROM THE MINSTER, +CHRISTCHURCH.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + + +<p>From Brockenhurst the Lymington River flows southward out of the New +Forest into the Solent, across which is the Isle of Wight, steamers +connecting Lymington at the mouth of the river with Yarmouth on the +island. About twelve miles westward from Lymington is Christchurch, at +the confluence of the Avon and Stour Rivers, which here form the estuary +known as Christchurch Bay. The Avon flows down past Ringwood on the +western verge of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_507" id="Page_507">[Pg 507]</a></span> the New Forest, its lower valley being a wide grassy +trough in a rolling plateau of slight elevation. The moors, with many +parts too arid for cultivation, extend to the sea, having glens here and +there whose sandy slopes are often thickly wooded, and whose beds are +traversed by the "bournes" that give names to so many localities in this +region. Along all the sea-border fashionable watering-places are +springing up, which enjoy views over the water to the distant +chalk-downs of the Isle of Wight, one of the best being that from +Boscombe Chine. Through this land the Avon flows, and the Stour enters +it from the west, with the ancient town of Christchurch standing on the +broad angle between them. It is of Roman origin, and the remains of a +British castle crown the neighboring promontory of Hengistbury Head. The +chief attraction is the magnificent Priory Church, founded before the +Norman Conquest, but rebuilt afterwards and dedicated to the Holy +Trinity. The ancient town was known as Twynham from the two rivers, and +it then became Christchurch-at-Twynham, but the original name was +ultimately dropped. It was a royal demesne in Edward I.'s reign, and +Edward III. granted it to the Earl of Salisbury, whose countess was the +heroine of the institution of the Order of the Garter. It is a sleepy, +old-fashioned place, with little of interest excepting the Priory Church +and the castle. The square church-tower rises high above the Avon, a +landmark from afar, its mass of gray masonry catching the eye from away +over the sea. The church is of large dimensions, cruciform in plan, with +short transepts, and a Lady chapel having the unusual peculiarity of an +upper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508">[Pg 508]</a></span> story. It is about three hundred and ten feet long, with the +tower at the western end, and a large northern porch. The oldest part of +the church was built in the twelfth century by Flambard, Bishop of +Durham, who was granted this priory by William Rufus. Subsequently, he +fell into disfavor, and the priory became a college of the Augustinians. +Only the nave and transepts are left of his Norman church, the remainder +being of later construction. The north porch, which has an extremely +rich Decorated doorway, is of unusual size, having an upper chamber, and +dating from the thirteenth century. The nave is of great beauty, being +separated from the aisles by massive semicircular arches, rich in +general effect, with a triforium above consisting of a double arcade, +making it worthy to compete with the finest naves in England. The +clerestory is more modern, being of Pointed Gothic, and the aisles are +also of later construction: the northern aisle contains a beam to which +is attached the legend that the timber was drawn out as if an elastic +material "by the touch of a strange workman who wrought without wages +and never spoke a word with his fellows." The western tower is of +Perpendicular architecture, added by the later builders, and beneath it +is the handsome marble monument erected to the memory of the poet +Shelley, drowned at Spezzia in 1822: his family lived near Christchurch. +The tower contains a peal of eight bells, two of them ancient, and from +the belfry there is a noble view over the valleys of the two rivers, the +distant moorlands and woods of the New Forest, the estuary winding +seaward and glittering in the sun, while beneath are the houses and +gardens of the town spread out as on a map. Among the many monuments in +the church is that to Margaret, Countess of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_509" id="Page_509">[Pg 509]</a></span> Salisbury, the last of the +line who possessed the priory, and the closing heiress of the race of +Plantagenets. She was the mother of Cardinal Pole, who upheld the cause +of the pope against Henry VIII., and she was a prisoner in the Tower, +held as hostage for his good behavior. At seventy years of age she was +ordered out for execution, but refused to lay her head upon the block, +saying, "So should traitors do, and I am none." Then, the historian +says, "turning her gray head in every way, she bade the executioner, if +he would have her head, to get it as he could, so that he was +constrained to fetch it off slovenly." She was beheaded in May, 1541, +being too near in kinship to the throne to be allowed to live. Little is +left of the ancient priory buildings beyond the ruins of the old Norman +gateway. The castle of Christchurch has also almost disappeared, leaving +only massive fragments of the wall of the keep crowning a mound. It was +of slight historical importance; and a more perfect relic is the ruin of +the ancient Norman house standing near by on the bank of the Stour, an +ivy-clad shell of masonry still showing the staircase and interior +apartments. This crumbling memorial of the twelfth century was the home +of Baldwin de Redvers, then Earl of Devon.</p> + + + +<h3>SOUTHAMPTON.</h3> + +<p>Crossing over the New Forest back to the Southampton Water on its +eastern border, the river Itchen debouches on the farther shore near the +head of the estuary, making a peninsula; and here is the celebrated port +of Southampton, located between the river Itchen and the river Test, and +having an excellent harbor. The Southampton Water extends from the Red +Bridge, a short distance above the city, to Calshot Castle, about seven +miles below, and varies in breadth from a mile and a half to two miles, +the entrance being well protected by the Isle of Wight, which gives the +harbor the peculiarity of four tides in the twenty-four hours—double +the usual number, owing to the island intercepting a portion of the +tidal wave in its flow both ways along the Channel. Southampton comes +down from the Romans, and remains of their camp, Clausentum, now known +as Bittern Manor, are still to be seen in the suburbs, while parts of +the Saxon walls and two of the old gates of the town are yet preserved. +The Danes sacked it in the tenth century, and afterwards it was the +occasional residence of Canute, its shore being said to be the scene of +his rebuke to his courtiers when he commanded the tide to cease +advancing and it disobeyed. Southampton was destroyed by foreign +invaders in the fourteenth century, and rebuilt by Richard II. and +strongly fortified. For many years it was a watering-place, but within +half a century extensive docks have been built, and it has become a +great seaport, being the point of departure for steamship-lines to all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510">[Pg 510]</a></span> +parts of the world, especially the East Indies and America, as it is but +seventy miles south-west of London, and thus shortens the sea voyage for +trade from the metropolis. The harbor is a fine one, the channel being +deep and straight, and affording good anchorage. In exploring the +antiquities of Southampton the visitor will be attracted by an ancient +house of the Plantagenet period located on St. Michael's Square, said to +have been occupied by Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and the remains of +the town-walls. The old Bargate in these walls crosses the High Street, +dividing it into "Above Bar" and "Below Bar." In the ancient walls are +the antique towers known as Arundel Tower and Catch-Cold Tower, and also +a house (one of the oldest in England) built anterior to the twelfth +century, and known as King John's Palace. Southampton Park, called the +Common, is a pretty enclosure of three hundred and sixty acres just +north of the city. The picturesque ruins of Netley Abbey are about three +miles south of the city, and near them is the Royal Victoria Hospital, +established just after the Crimean War, both of them on the eastern bank +of Southampton Water.</p> + + + +<h3>PORTSMOUTH.</h3> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p510" id="p510"></a> +<img src="images/p510.jpg" width="500" height="376" alt="PORTSMOUTH POINT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PORTSMOUTH POINT.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="p511" id="p511"></a> +<img src="images/p511.jpg" width="500" height="498" alt="H.M.S. "VICTORY."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">H.M.S. "VICTORY."</span> +</div> + + + +<p>We will follow Southampton Water down to its entrance, where the two +broad channels dividing the Isle of Wight from the mainland—the Solent +and Spithead—join, and at the point jutting out on the western angle +pass Calshot Castle, founded for coast-defence by Henry VIII., and now +occupied by the coast-guard. Skirting along Spithead, which is a +prolongation of the Southampton Water, without change of direction, at +about twenty miles from Southampton we round Gillkicker Point, forming +the western boundary of Portsmouth harbor. Here is Gosport, and east of +it is Portsea Island, about four miles long and two and a half miles +broad, on which Portsmouth is located, with its suburbs known as +Portsea, Landport, and Southsea. Portsmouth is on the south-western part +of the island, separated from Portsea by a small stream to the +northward, both being united in a formidable fortress whose works would +require thirteen thousand men to man, though the ordinary garrison is +about twenty-five hundred. The royal dockyard, covering one hundred and +twenty acres, is at Portsea, and at Gosport,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_511" id="Page_511">[Pg 511]</a></span> opposite, are the +storehouses, the channel between them, which extends for several miles +between Portsea Island and the mainland, gradually widening until it +attains three miles' breadth at its northern extremity. This channel +affords anchorage for the largest vessels, and is defended by Southsea +Castle on the eastern side and Moncton Fort on the western side of the +entrance into Spithead, where the roadstead is sheltered by the Isle of +Wight. Portsmouth was a port in the days of the Saxons, who in the sixth +century called it Portsmuthe. It fitted out a fleet of nine ships to aid +King Alfred defeat the Danes, and its vessels ineffectually endeavored +to intercept the Normans when they landed near Hastings. In the +fourteenth century the French burned the town, but were afterwards +defeated with heavy loss. Ever since then the fortifications have been +gradually improved, until now it is one of the strongest British +fortresses. The Duke of Buckingham was murdered here in 1628, and part +of the house where he was killed still remains. In 1757, Admiral Byng +was executed here, and in 1782 the ship "Royal George" was sunk with +Admiral Kempenfelt and "twice four hundred men." The town of Portsmouth +contains little that is attractive beyond its ancient church of St. +Thomas à Becket, built in the reign of Henry II., and containing on its +register the record of the marriage of Charles II. with Catharine of +Braganza in 1662. This marriage took place in the garrison chapel, which +was originally the hospital of St. Nicholas, founded in the time of +Henry III. The chief place of interest is the dockyard at Portsea, the +entrance to which, by the Common Hard, or terrace fronting the harbor, +bears the date of 1711. Here they have many relics of famous ships, and +also vast numbers of boats, and all kinds of materials for building +war-vessels, especially iron and armor-plated ships, with the docks and +slips for their construction. Off the dockyard lies at anchor the most +famous of the "wooden walls of old England," the "Victory," the ship in +which Nelson died at Trafalgar, then the most powerful vessel of the +British navy. Near her is anchored another celebrated man-of-war, the +port-admiral's flag-ship, the "Duke of Wellington." The stores across +the harbor at Gosport<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512">[Pg 512]</a></span> are on a large scale, and are known as the Royal +Clarence Victualling Yard. In the southern part of Gosport is the Haslar +Hospital for sick and disabled sailors and soldiers. From Gillkicker +Point beyond, a sandbank stretches about three miles out from the shore +in a south-easterly direction, and is called the Spit. This gives the +name to the roadstead of Spithead, west of which is the quarantine +station of Motherbank. This is the great roadstead of the British navy, +and in the miles of docks, sheds, forges, basins, and shops of +Portsmouth harbor that weary the tourist, who thinks he ought to +dutifully go through them, are fashioned many of the monster iron-clads +that modern improvements have made necessary in naval architecture.</p> + + + + +<h3>THE ISLE OF WIGHT.</h3> + + +<p><a name="p512" id="p512"></a><span class="caption" style="margin-left: 4em;">HARBOR OF COWES.</span></p> +<div class="backleft" style="background-image: url(images/p512.jpg); height: 100%;"> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:600px; height:250px;"> </div> +<div class="sandbag-left" style="width:100px; height:70px;"> </div> + +<p>Crossing over the narrow strait—for there is ample opportunity by +several routes—we will complete this English tour by a journey beyond +the Solent and Spithead to the Isle of Wight. This island, formed like +an irregular lozenge about twenty-two miles long and thirteen broad, is +rich in scientific and historical associations, and a marvel of climate +and scenery. Its name of Wight is said to preserve the British word +"gwyth," the original name having been "Ynys-gwyth," or the "Channel +Island." The Roman name was "Vectis," Rome having conquered it in +Claudius' time. The English descended upon it in the early part of the +sixth century, and captured its chief stronghold, Whitgarasbyrg, now +Carisbrooke Castle. It afterwards became part of the Saxon kingdom of +Wessex, and St. Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, is said to have converted +its people to Christianity. Then the Danes devastated it, and after the +Norman Conquest it was subdued by Fitzosborne, Earl of Hereford, whose +descendants ruled it until Edward I.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_513" id="Page_513">[Pg 513]</a></span> recovered the wardenship for the +Crown. Richard II. granted it to the Earl of Salisbury, and Henry VI. +created the Earl of Warwick, Henry Beauchamp, "king of the Isle of +Wight," crowning him with his own hands. The title reverted to the Crown +in the time of Henry VII. The French several times invaded the island, +and it was the intention of the leaders of the Spanish Armada to capture +and use it as a base for operations against England, but the English +fleet harassed them so badly that they had to sail past without +effecting a landing. In the Civil War the Isle of Wight made a +considerable figure.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 578px;"> +<a name="p513-1" id="p513-1"></a> +<img src="images/p513-1.jpg" width="578" height="600" alt="THE NEEDLES, FROM ALUM BAY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NEEDLES, FROM ALUM BAY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="p513-2" id="p513-2"></a> +<img src="images/p513-2.jpg" width="650" height="280" alt="YARMOUTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">YARMOUTH.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p514" id="p514"></a> +<img src="images/p514.jpg" width="600" height="453" alt="OSBORNE HOUSE, FROM THE SEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">OSBORNE HOUSE, FROM THE SEA.</span> +</div> + +<p>Beginning at the western end of the lozenge-shaped island, beyond which +are the Needles, the entrance to the Solent is found defended by +successive batteries on every headland, with Hurst Castle on the +Hampshire shore. High Down, with its fine chalk-cliffs, rises six +hundred feet above the sea, being haunted by numerous sea-gulls, and +under it is Scratchell's Cave, a singular recess in the rock accessible +only by boat. Sheltered by the bold headland is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_514" id="Page_514">[Pg 514]</a></span> Alum Bay, with its +tinted sands, gray, buff, and red, and from Headon Hill, its eastern +boundary, the coast stretches away to Yarmouth, a little town on the +Solent, where are the remains of one of the defensive blockhouses built +by Henry VIII. The shores of the strait trend to the north-east, with +pleasant views across on the coast of Hampshire, until the northernmost +point of the Isle of Wight is reached, where its chief stream, the +Medina, flows into the strait through an estuary about five hundred +yards wide. Here is Cowes, divided by the river into the West Cow and +the East Cow, the plural form of the name being modern. It is a popular +bathing-place, but gets the most fame from being the headquarters of the +Royal Yacht Club; their house is the old castle at the Medina entrance, +built by Henry VIII., it is said, with portions of the masonry of +Beaulieu Abbey. The harbor, at the proper season, is usually dotted with +yachts. There is steam communication with the mainland, and a railway +runs inland to Newport, the chief town of the island. Near East Cowes is +Whippingham, which was the birthplace of Dr. Arnold, the famous +head-master of Rugby School. Ascending the Medina, the beautiful park +and gardens of Osborne House, the marine residence of Queen Victoria, +border<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_515" id="Page_515">[Pg 515]</a></span> its eastern margin. This was the ancient manor of Austerbourne, +and its owner in the Civil War buried all his money and plate in an +adjoining wood, called the Money Copse, so as to preserve it. When +peaceful days came back he went to get it, but found he had concealed it +so thoroughly that it could not be recovered. The queen bought the +estate in 1844, and the plain mansion was extended into an elegant +marine villa just back from the sea-coast. It was the queen's childhood +attachment to the locality that made her settle here, for when a young +princess she had passed many pleasant days in the neighboring Norris +Castle.</p> + +<p>East of the Medina the coast trends to the south-east, the shores being +lined by fine villas surrounded with highly-cultivated grounds; indeed, +the coast of the strait seems like an extended park. Here, opposite +Portsmouth, is the famous watering-place of Ryde, in a beautiful +situation, and with railways running across the island to Sandown and +Ventnor. The land steeply rises from the sea, with the town stretching +along its slope, a panorama of villas whose trees grow down to the +water's edge. It is an ancient town, having existed in the reign of +Richard II., when the French burned it, but none of the present +buildings are of much antiquity, it having in later years been gradually +converted into a fashionable watering-place. The pier is the popular +promenade, and the Spithead roadstead in front is closely connected with +English naval history. It was here that the "Royal George" went down on +a calm day and drowned her admiral and eight hundred men: she was +careened over, the better to make some repairs, and, a squall striking +her, it is said the heavy guns slid down to the lower side and tipped +the vessel over, when she quickly filled and sank. Here also, in 1797, +was the great mutiny in Lord Bridport's fleet, the sailors, when the +signal to weigh anchor was given, declining to do it until their just +demands were granted; the mutiny was suppressed and the leaders severely +punished. All the neighboring shores bristle with forts and batteries +protecting the entrance to Spithead. Inland are the Binstead quarries, +whose stone was in demand in the Middle Ages and built parts of +Winchester Cathedral, Beaulieu Abbey, and Christchurch; also, here are +the scanty remains of Quarr Abbey. Eastward of Ryde the coast is low and +bends more to the southward, reaching the estuary known as Brading +Harbor, a broad sheet of water at full tide, but a dismal expanse of mud +at low water, through which a small stream meanders. At Brading is the +old Norman church which St. Wilfrid founded, of which Rev. Legh +Richmond, author of the <i>Annals of the Poor</i>, was the curate. In the +churchyard is the grave of his heroine, little Jane, the "Dairyman's +Daughter." Extensive remains of a Roman villa have been discovered at +Morton, near Brading, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516">[Pg 516]</a></span> to the eastward of them a hyptocaust. +Rounding the Foreland, which is the easternmost point of the island, the +chalk-rocks rise again, and Whitecliff Bay nestles under the protection +of the lofty Culver Cliff as the coastline bends south-west and then +makes a grand semicircular sweep to the southward around Sandown Bay. +This wide expanse broadens between the two chalk-ridges that cross the +Isle of Wight from its western side. The railway from Ryde runs across +the chalk-downs to the growing watering place of Sandown, standing on +the lowest part of the shores of the bay. Here the coast is guarded by a +grim fort, and here in the last century came the noted John Wilkes to +recuperate after his contests with the House of Commons, which vainly +tried to keep him out of his seat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="p516" id="p516"></a> +<img src="images/p516.jpg" width="421" height="550" alt="SHANKLIN CHINE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SHANKLIN CHINE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 477px;"> +<a name="p517" id="p517"></a> +<img src="images/p517.jpg" width="477" height="600" alt="THE UNDERCLIFF." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE UNDERCLIFF.</span> +</div> + +<p>The chalk-ranges to the southward provide magnificent scenery, and two +miles from Sandown, but on higher ground, is Shanklin, from which its +celebrated chine descends to the sea. This little ravine is about four +hundred and fifty yards long and at its mouth about two hundred feet +deep. It has been gradually worn in the brown sandstone rock by the +action of a diminutive brook that bubbles over a little cascade at the +upper end. The rich colors of the crags, the luxuriant foliage of the +slopes, and the rhapsodies of guide books combine to give the Shanklin +Chine a world-wide fame. It was here that a party of French under the +Chevalier d'Eulx landed in 1545 to get some fresh water. The process was +tedious, the stream being so small, and the chevalier and some of his +party, wandering inland, were caught in an ambuscade. He and most of the +others were killed, though they defended themselves bravely. South of +Shanklin the chalk-cliffs are bold and lofty, and off these pretty +shores the "Eurydice" was lost in a squall, March 24, 1878, when +returning from her training-cruise in the West Indies. It was at four +o'clock on Sunday afternoon, and her ports being open when the squall +struck her, she capsized and almost immediately foundered, only two +survivors remaining out of the three hundred persons on board. Climbing +the cliffs south of Shanklin and crossing the summit, we reach Bonchurch +on the southern coast, described by Dr. Arnold as the most beauti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_517" id="Page_517">[Pg 517]</a></span>ful +thing on the sea-coast north of Genoa. Here villas are dotted and the +villages are spreading into towns, for the coast of the Undercliff is +becoming one of the most fashionable resorts the English have. Already +complaints are made that a too general extension of settlements is +interfering with the picturesque wildness of scenery and luxuriant +vegetation that are the great charm of this delightful region. The +Undercliff stretches along the southern coast for several miles to the +westward of Bonchurch—an irregular terrace formed by the sliding +forward of the chalk-downs, which dip gently towards the sea. This makes +a lofty natural terrace, backed by cliffs to the northward and open to +the full influence of the southern sun. It has the climate of Madeira, +and is fanned by the sea-breezes that invigorate but do not chill. The +mildness of the winter makes it a popular resort for invalids, and many +greenhouse plants live outdoors throughout the year, the almost +perpendicular rocks of the Undercliff absorbing during the day the heat +that they radiate throughout the night. Yet at Bonchurch many who had +sought health in this beautiful region ultimately found a grave, and of +its churchyard it has been written, "It might make one in love with +death to think one would be buried in so sweet a place." The ancient +little Norman church of St. Boniface is still here, but a new and larger +church was built not long ago. Here lies Rev. W. Adams, who wrote the +allegory <i>Under the Shadow of the Cross</i>, and it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_518" id="Page_518">[Pg 518]</a></span> is strictly true, for +the cross raised as his monument casts its shadow on the slab over his +grave. Admiral Hobson was born at Bonchurch, and ran away from the +tailor's shop in which he was apprenticed to come back knighted for his +victory over the Spaniards at Vigo Bay. Ventnor, known as the +"metropolis of the Undercliff," is beyond Bonchurch, and is also a +thriving wateringplace, above which rises the attractive spire of Holy +Trinity Church, built by the munificence of three sisters.</p> + +<p>From Ventnor the most beautiful part of the island coast stretches +westward to Niton. The bold chalk-downs rise from their craggy bases, +the guardians of the broken terrace intervening between them and the +sea. Foliage and ivy cling to them; flowers cluster on the turf and +banks and gleam in the crevices; and little streams come down the +ravines. Here was the smallest church of England—St. Lawrence—twenty +feet long, twelve wide, and six feet high to the eaves. A chancel has +lately been added, while below are the ivy-clad ruins of the ancient +Woolverton Chapel. Near Niton, at Puckaster Cove, Charles II. landed +after a terrific storm; and beyond is Roche End, the southern point of +the island. The coast, a dangerous one, then trends to the north-west, +and wrecks there are frequent, while inland St. Catharine's Down rises +steeply, there being a magnificent view of the island from its summit, +elevated seven hundred and fifty feet. Here in the fourteenth century +was founded, on the highest part of the Isle of Wight, a chantry chapel +where a priest prayed for the mariner and at night kept a beacon burning +to warn him off the reefs. An octagonal tower of the chapel remains, but +a lighthouse supersedes the pious labors of the priest; a column near by +commemorates a visit of the Russian Czar to the summit of the hill in +1814. The wild scenery of this region is varied by the great landslip +which in 1799 carried about one hundred acres down towards the sea, the +marks of its progress being still shown in the rended rocks and +wave-like undulations of the earth. About a mile to the westward is the +most noted and wildest of the ravines of the island, the Blackgang +Chine, now filled with paths and summer-houses, for the thrifty +hotel-keepers could not help domesticating such a prize. It is a more +open ravine than that at Shanklin, and like it cut out by a tiny stream, +while far away through the entrance is a distant view westward to +Portland Isle and St. Aldhelm's Head. The rocks are dark green, streaked +with gray and brown sandstone, looking like uncouth courses of masonry. +The adjoining coast is guarded by grim crags on which many ships have +been shattered. There are other chines to the westward—all of great +attractions, though of less size and celebrity. The coast is not of so +much interest beyond, but the cliffs, which are the outposts of the +chalk-measures, become more lofty at Freshwater Gate, and our sur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_519" id="Page_519">[Pg 519]</a></span>vey of +the island shores terminates at the Main Bench, whose prolonged point +goes out to the Needles.</p> + + + +<h3>CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<a name="p519" id="p519"></a> +<img src="images/p519.jpg" width="414" height="550" alt="LOOKING FROM CARISBROOKE CASTLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LOOKING FROM CARISBROOKE CASTLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Following up the Medina River a few miles, almost to the centre of the +island, it leads to the metropolis, the little town of Newport, and +here, upon an outer precipice of the chalk-downs overlooking the +river-valley and the town, and elevated two hundred feet above the sea, +is Carisbrooke Castle. The oldest part of the present remains come down +from Fitzosborne, but additions were afterwards made, and Queen +Elizabeth, in anticipation of the descent of the Armada, had an outer +line of defence constructed, pentagonal in shape and enclosing +considerable space. The loyalty of the people in that time of trial was +shown by their subscribing money and laboring without pay on these +works. The ruins are not striking, but are finely situated on the +elevated ridge. They are much decayed, but the entrance-gateway is well +preserved, with its flanking round towers, portcullis, and ancient +doors. Here lived Charles I. and two of his children. A small stone +building within the enclosure covers the famous well of Carisbrooke, +sunk in Stephen's days, two hundred and forty feet deep, of which ninety +feet are filled with water. A solemn donkey in a big wooden wheel works +the treadmill that winds the bucket up. Formerly, every visitor dropped +a pebble into the well to hear the queer sounds it made in falling—"His +head as he fell went knicketty-knock, like a pebble in Carisbrooke +Well," used to be a proverb—but as this amusement threatened to fill up +the well, it has been prohibited. The keep is at the north-eastern angle +of the castle, polygonal in plan and of Norman architecture. Carisbrooke +was held for the empress Maud against Stephen, but the failure of the +old well in the keep, now filled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_520" id="Page_520">[Pg 520]</a></span> up, caused its surrender. The new one, +which has never been known to give out, was then bored. In the reign of +Charles I. the castle was invested by militia on behalf of the +Parliament, and was surrendered to them by the wife of the governor, the +Countess of Portland. She obtained specially advantageous conditions +from the besiegers by appearing on the walls with a lighted match and +threatening to fire the first cannon unless the conditions were granted. +King Charles I. took refuge here in November, 1647, but soon found he +was practically a prisoner. He remained ten months, twice attempting to +escape. On the first occasion he tried to squeeze himself between the +bars of his window, but stuck fast; on the second his plan was divulged, +and on looking out the window he found a guard ready to entrap him +below. He was taken to Newport and surrendered himself to the +Parliamentary commissioners, but was ultimately returned to Carisbrooke. +Then some army officers removed him suddenly to Hurst Castle on the +mainland, and thence he was taken to Windsor and London for the trial +that ended on the block at Whitehall. Two of his children were +imprisoned in Carisbrooke with him—the young Duke of Gloucester, +afterwards sent to the Continent, and the princess Elizabeth, who died +here in childhood from a fever. She was found dead with her hands +clasped in the attitude of prayer and her face resting on an open Bible, +her father's last gift. She was buried in an unmarked grave in Newport +Church, but the coffin was discovered in 1793, and when the church was +rebuilt in 1856 Queen Victoria erected a handsome monument over the +little princess, the sculptor representing her lying on a mattrass with +her cheek resting on the open Bible, the attitude in which she had been +found. Newport has some ten thousand population.</p> + + + +<h3>TENNYSON'S HOME.</h3> + +<p>Tennyson's pretty home is at Farringford, near Freshwater, on the +western slope of the Isle of Wight, just where it begins to contract +into the long point of the chalk-cliffs that terminate with the Needles. +At Brixton, on the south-western coast, is Bishop Ken's parsonage, +where William Wilberforce spent the closing years of his life. The +little rectory here is honorably distinguished as having given to the +Church of England three of its famous prelates: Bishop Ken, one of the +martyrs whom James II. imprisoned in the Tower, and whose favorite walk +is still pointed out in the pretty garden; Bishop Samuel Wilberforce of +Winchester, whose unfortunate death occurred not long ago at Evershed +Rough; and the present Bishop Moberly of Salisbury. The western +extremity of the Isle of Wight is a peninsula, almost cut off from the +main island by the little river Yar, which flows into the Solent at +Yarmouth. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_521" id="Page_521">[Pg 521]</a></span> is known as the Freshwater Peninsula, and presents +almost unrivalled attractions for the tourist and the geologist. The +coast-walk around the peninsula from Freshwater Gate to Alum Bay extends +about twelve miles. The bold and picturesque chalk-cliffs tower far +above the sea, their dazzling whiteness relieved by the rich green +foliage. Some of these hills rise four hundred feet, forming the +chalk-downs that are the backbone of this most attractive island. Among +these hills are bewitching little vales and glens, and almost every +favored spot is availed of as a villa site. No part of England is more +sought as a place of rural residence than this richly-gifted isle, thus +set as a gem upon the southern shore of the kingdom.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="p521" id="p521"></a> +<img src="images/p521.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="FARRINGFORD, TENNYSON'S RESIDENCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FARRINGFORD, TENNYSON'S RESIDENCE.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3>THE NEEDLES.</h3> + +<p>With the terminating western cliffs of the chalk-hills of the Isle of +Wight beyond High Down we will close this pleasant journey. The +far-famed Needles are a row of wedge-like masses of hard chalk running +out to sea in the direction of the axis of the range of hills. They do +not now much resemble their name, but in earlier years there was among +them a conspicuous pinnacle, a veritable needle, one hundred and twenty +feet in height, that fell in 1764. At present the new lighthouse, built +at the seaward end of the outermost cliff, is the nearest approach to a +needle. The headland behind them is crowned by a fort several hundred +feet above the sea. There were originally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_522" id="Page_522">[Pg 522]</a></span> five of these pyramidal +rocks, but the waves are continually producing changes in their form, +and now but three of them stand prominently out of the water.</p> + + + +<p>And now our task is done. The American visitor landing at Liverpool has +been conducted through England, and has been shown many of its more +prominent attractions, but not by any means all of them, for that would +be an impossible task. But he has been shown enough to demonstrate the +claim of the mother-country to the continued interest of the Anglo-Saxon +race from beyond the sea; and to this pleasant panorama and description +there cannot be given a better termination than at the lovely Isle of +Wight, the perfection of English scenery and climate, whereof Drayton +has written,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Of all the southern isles, she holds the highest place,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And evermore hath been the great'st in Britain's grace;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Not one of all her nymphs her sovereign favoreth thus,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Embracèd in the arms of old Oceanus."</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<a name="p522" id="p522"></a> +<img src="images/p522.jpg" width="450" height="228" alt="THE NEEDLES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NEEDLES.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_523" id="Page_523">[Pg 523]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> + + +<ul class="none"> + + +<li>Abbey Dale, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Abbey Dore, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li>Abbot, George, Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li> + +<li>Abbot's Hospital, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li> + +<li>Abbot's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Abbotsbury, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Abergele, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Abergwili, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Aber-tawe, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Aberystwith Castle, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + +<li>Abingdon Abbey, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li> + +<li>Ad Pontem, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Adams, Rev. W., <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li> + +<li>Adam and Eve Inn, London, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li> + +<li>Addison, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + +<li>Addison's Walk, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Admirals, earliest, in England, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Admiralty Building, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + +<li>Adrian IV., Pope, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li> + +<li>Ælfred, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Ælfrida, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Æthelbald, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Æthelbert, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Æthelred, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Ælhelred's Tomb, Wimborne, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Æthelstan, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Agglestone, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Aire, River, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Aislabie, John, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Aisle of Tombs, Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Alan the Red, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Alard, Gervase, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Alard, Stephen, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Alban, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + +<li>Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + +<li>Albermarle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Albert Bridge, Tamar River, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Albury Down, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Albury Park, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>Alderney, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Aldershot Camp, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li> + +<li>Alexander, King of Scotland, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Alexander VI., Pope, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Alfred, King, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>All Saints' Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + +<li>All Souls' College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>Aller Church, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Alne River, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Alnwick Castle, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li> + +<li>Alnwick Abbey, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>Alton, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Alton Towers, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Alum Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>American Weed, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li> + +<li>Amesbury, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Amphibalus, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + +<li>Anabaptists, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Analogy</i>, Butler's, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Anastasius, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Anderida, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Angel Inn, Helston, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>Anglesea, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Anglesea Column, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Anglican Monastery, Capel-y-ffyn, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li> + +<li>Angus, Earl, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Annals of the Poor</i>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Annandale, Earl of, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Anne Boleyn's Seat, Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li> + +<li>Anne of Cleves, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Anselm, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Anstis Cove, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Anti-Corn Law League, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Antoninus, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Apples in Devonshire, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Aquarium, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Aquila, House of, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Aram, Eugene, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>.</li> + +<li>Arcadia, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Arches Court, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li> + +<li>Argyle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Ariconium, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Arkwright, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li> + +<li>Armada, Spanish, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Armada trophies, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Armstrong guns, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Armstrong, Sir William, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Arnold, Dr., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Arnold, Dr., birthplace, Whippingham, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Arran Fowddwy, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Arthur, King, birthplace, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Arthur, King, tomb, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li> + +<li>Arun River, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Arundel Castle, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Arundel, Earl of, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Arundel Tower, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Ascot, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Ashby de la Zouche, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Ashby, St. Leger, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li>Ashdown, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Asparagus Island, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Astley, Sir Jacob, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Aston Hall, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li> + +<li>Athelney, Isle of, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Athelstan, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Auckland, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Auditor's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Audley, Baron Thomas, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Audley End, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Austerbourne, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Austin Friars Priory, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Avelon, Isle of, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Avon ford, New Forest, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Avon gorge, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li> + +<li>Avon River, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Axe River, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Axminster, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Axminster carpets, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Ayre, Point of, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Babbicombe Bay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Bablock Hythe Ferry, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Backs of Colleges, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li> + +<li>Bacon, Francis, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Bacon, Francis, tomb, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Bacon, Roger, friar, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Baggy Point, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Bagley Wood, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Bagworthy Water, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Baker, Chancellor, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Baker's Cross, Sissinghurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Bakewell, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li> + +<li>Bala Lake, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + +<li>Balliol College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Balliol, King, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Ballywasta, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li> + +<li>Balsham, Hugh de, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Bamborough, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Bamborough Castle, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Banbury, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + +<li>Bangor, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li> + +<li>Bangor-ys-Coed, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + +<li>Bank of England, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + +<li>Bankes, Lady, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Bankes, Sir John, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Banstead, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Barbican, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li> + +<li>Barbican, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>Bard, the, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li> + +<li>Bardon Hill, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Bardon Tower, the Strid, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Bargate, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Barmoor Wood, Flodden, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Barmouth, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + +<li>Barnard Castle, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Barnard, Lady, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Barnard's Heath, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li> + +<li>Barndoor Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Barnstaple, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Barnstaple Bay, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Barrow-in-Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Barry, Sir Charles, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Basingstoke Canal, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li> + +<li>Baslow, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_524" id="Page_524">[Pg 524]</a></span>Bassenthwaite Lake, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Basset, Gilbert, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + +<li>Bath, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li>Bath bricks, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Bath stone, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Bathurst, Earl, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>Battle of Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Battle of Hastings, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Battledon, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Bayeux Tapestry, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Bayham Abbey, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Beachy Head, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Beacon Hill, Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Beacon Walks, Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaconsfield Club, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Bearwood, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Beauchamp Chapel, Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Beauchamp, Henry, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>Beauchamp, Thomas, Earl of Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Beauchamp Tower, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>Beauchief Abbey, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaufort, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaufort, Jane, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaufort, Duke of, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaumaris Castle, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaumonts, the, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Beaver Lake, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Bebbanburg, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Becket, St. Thomas à, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Becket, St. Thomas à, slain, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Becket's Chapel, Peterborough, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Becket's shrine, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Beckford, William, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li>Beckington, Bishop, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Bed of Ware, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Bede, Venerable, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li> + +<li>Bedford Castle, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li> + +<li>Bedford, Duke of, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Bedford Level, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Bedgebury Park, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Beeston Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Bek, Antony, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Bell Harry, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Bell Inn, Edmonton, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Bell Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>Bellamont, Henry de, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li> + +<li>Bellows, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Belted Will, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li> + +<li>Belvedere, Windsor Park, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Belvoir Castle, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Ben Rhydding Palace, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Bentinck, William, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Beorm, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li> + +<li>Beresford, Field-marshal, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Beresford Hope, A. J. B., <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Berkeley Canal, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li> + +<li>Berkeley Castle, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Berkeley Chapel, Bristol, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Berkeley, Earls of, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li> + +<li>Berks and Wilts Canal, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + +<li>Berkshire, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Bermondsey Monastery, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + +<li>Berry Head, Torbay, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Berry Pomeroy Castle, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li> + +<li>Berwick-on-Tweed, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Berwick, Dorset, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Bess of Hardwicke, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Betchworth Castle, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Bettws-y-Coed, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li> + +<li>Beverley, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li> + +<li>Beverley Minster, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Bicester, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + +<li>Bickleigh Vale, Plym River, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Bicycles, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Biddulph, R. Myddelton, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + +<li>Bideford, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Bideford Bridge, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a>.</li> + +<li>Bidston, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Bigner, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Bigod, Roger, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Binstead quarries, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Bird-fair, Kirkham, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Birkenhead, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + +<li>Birmingham, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li> + +<li>Bisham Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + +<li>Bishop's Eye, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li>Bishop's Garden, Wells, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li> + +<li>Bishops Hatfield, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Bisterne, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Bittern Manor, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Black Down, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Black Friars Monastery, Newcastle, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Black Mountains, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Black Rood, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Blackgang Chine, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Blacklow Hill, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Blackmore, novelist, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Bladud's Well, Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Blake, Admiral, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li> + +<li>Blenheim, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li> + +<li>Blenheim Woods, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + +<li>Blickling, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li> + +<li>Bloody Baker's Prison, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Bloody Gap, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Bloody Meadow, Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li> + +<li>Bloody Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + +<li>Blorenge, Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Boadicea, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + +<li>Boar and Sow, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Boatswain, dog, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Bodleian Library, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + +<li>Bold, Jonas, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li> + +<li>Bodley, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li> + +<li>Boldre, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Boleyn, Sir Geoffrey, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Boleyn, Sir William, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li> + +<li>Bolsover Castle, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li> + +<li>Bolton Abbey, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Bolton Hall, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Bonchurch, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li> + +<li>Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Borrowdale Valley, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Boscobel Wood, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Boscombe Chine, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li> + +<li>Bossiney, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Boston, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Boswell, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Bosworth Field, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li> + +<li>Botanic Garden, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Bothwell, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Boulton and Watt, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + +<li>Bourne River, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li> + +<li>Bournemouth, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Bow and Arrow Castle, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Bow bells, London, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li> + +<li>Bowder Stone, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Bowness, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Bowyer Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>Box Hill, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Box Tunnel, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li> + +<li>Boy of Egremont, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Bradda Head, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Bradford, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li> + +<li>Bradgate, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Brading Harbor, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Bramble Hill, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Brandon, Charles, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Brandon Hill, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li> + +<li>Brasenose College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Bray Church, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li> + +<li>Braybrooke, Baron, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>Brayford Pool, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Brazen head, the, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + +<li>Breakwater, Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Brecknock, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Brede River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Brendon River, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li> + +<li>Brendon Hills, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Brick Tower, London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>Brictric, King, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li> + +<li>Bridgenorth, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>.</li> + +<li>Bridgenorth, Castle, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li> + +<li>Bridgewater, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Bridgewater, Earl of, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Bridport, Lord, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Brigg-shot, Leeds, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li> + +<li>Brightstow, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li> + +<li>Brislee Hill, Alnwick Park, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristol Cathedral, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristol Channel, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristol, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristol milk, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li> + +<li>Bristow Castle, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Britannia Bridge, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>British Constitution, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>British Museum, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li> + +<li>Brixham, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Brixton, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Broad Moor, Naseby, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li> + +<li>Broad Walk, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Broadcloth manufacture, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Broad water, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>Brocavum, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + +<li>Brockenhurst, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Brockenhurst Church, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>Brockweir, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Brompton, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Bronwen, Lady, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li> + +<li>Brooke, Lord, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li> + +<li>Brooke, Sir James, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Brougham Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Brougham, Lord, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li> + +<li>Broughton Castle, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li> + +<li>Broughton, Lady, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Brown, Capability, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Brown, Sir William, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + +<li>Brown Willy, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Browning, Elizabeth B., <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li> + +<li>Brummagem, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li> + +<li>Buccleuch, Duke of, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckhurst, Lord, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckingham, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_525" id="Page_525">[Pg 525]</a></span>Buckingham, Duke of, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckingham, Duke of, murdered, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckingham Palace, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckinghamshire, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Buckland Abbey, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Bull-running, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Bumble Rock, Lizard, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li> + +<li>Bunbury College, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Bunyan, John, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li> + +<li>Burgess, Dr., <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Burghley House, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Burghley, Lord, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li> + +<li>Burke, Edmund, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Burke, Sir Bernard, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Burnet, Bishop, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a>.</li> + +<li>Bury St. Edmunds, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li> + +<li>Bushey Park, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Bussex Rhine, Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li> + +<li>Butchers' Row, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Bute, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Butler, Bishop, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Butler, Lady, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Buxton, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li> + +<li>Byng, Admiral, executed, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Byrom, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li> + +<li>Byron, Lord, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Byron, Sir John, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Byron's Pool, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Cable, Submarine, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Cabot, Sebastian, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Cad River, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Cade, Jack, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>Cader Idris, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li> + +<li>Cadogan, Lord, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Cædmon, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Caer Taff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Caergwrle Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Caerleon, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Caermarthen, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Caernarvon, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li> + +<li>Caernarvon Castle, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Caernarvonshire, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Caerphilly Castle, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Caerwise, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Cæsar, Julius, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Cæsarea, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Cæsar's Tower, Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Caister Castle, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li> + +<li>Caithness, Earl of, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Caius College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Cakes, Banbury, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + +<li>Calder River, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Calf of Man, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Calshot Castle, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Calveley, Sir Hugh, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Cam River, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Cambridge, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li> + +<li>Cambridge Castle, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Camden, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Camdentown, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li> + +<li>Camelford, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Campbell, Lord, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li> + +<li>Canova, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Canterbury, Archbishop of, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + +<li>Canterbury Castle, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Canterbury Cathedral, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Canterbury Tales</i>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Canute, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Canynge, William, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Capel, Lord, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Capel-y-ffyn, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li> + +<li>Capstone Rock, Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Cardiff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Cardigan Bay, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + +<li>Cardinal Beaufort's Tower and Gate, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Cardinal's Cap Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Carew Castle, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li> + +<li>Carfax Conduit, Oxford, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + +<li>Carisbrooke Castle, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Carisbrooke Well, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Carlisle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + +<li>Carlisle, Earls of, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Carlton Club, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Carmelite discipline, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li> + +<li>Carpets, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Carr, Robert, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Carrick Roads, Falmouth, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Caskets, the, Alderney, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Cassiobury, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Cassivelaunus, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>Castello, Hadrian de, Bishop, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Cornet, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Crag, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Field, Bridgwater, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Green, Hereford, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Hill, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Hill, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Hill, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Howard, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Malwood, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>.</li> + +<li>Castle Rock, Lynton, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li> + +<li>Castleton, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Castletown, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li> + +<li>Catch-Cold Tower, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Catesby, Robert, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li>Catharine of Braganza married, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Catharine, queen's tomb, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Catwater Haven, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Cavendish, Sir Charles, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Cavendish, Sir William, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Cavendish Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Cavern of the Peak, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li> + +<li>Caversham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Caversham House, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Cawdor, Earl of, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Cecil, Henry, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Cecil, Sir Robert, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li> + +<li>Cecil, Sir William, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Cecil, Thomas, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Cecil, William Allayne, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Chain Gate, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li>Chain Pier, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li> + +<li>Chalk Cliffs, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Chalk measures, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li> + +<li>Chanctonbury Hill, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Channel Islands, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Chapel Royal, Whitehall, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + +<li>Charlecote House, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles I., <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles I., death, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles I., tomb, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles II., <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles II., married, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Charles X., <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Charnwood Forest, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li> + +<li>Chartley Castle, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Chatsworth, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li> + +<li>Chatterton, Thomas, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li> + +<li>Chaucer, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Chaucer's tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Chavenage, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Checquers Inn, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Chequers Inn, Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheddar cheese, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheddar Cliffs, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheddar Forest, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li>Chedzoy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Chee Tor, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li> + +<li>Chelsea Hospital, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheltenham, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Chenies, Woburn, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li> + +<li>Chepstow Castle, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li> + +<li>Chertsey, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Cherwell River, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheshire, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + +<li>Chesil Bank, Portland, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Chesilton, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheslyn, Richard, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Chester, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + +<li>Chester, Earls of, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Chesterfield, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li> + +<li>Cheviot Hills, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>Chichele, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>Chichester, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Childs, George W., <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Chiltern Hills, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Chirk Castle, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + +<li>Christ Church College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + +<li>Christ Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> + +<li>Christ's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Christchurch, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Christchurch Castle, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Christchurch Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Church Brixham, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Church Hope Cove, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Churchill, John, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li> + +<li>Churn River, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Churnet River, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Cinque Ports, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Cirencester, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Citadel Point, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Clapham, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li> + +<li>Clare College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Clare, Gilbert de, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Clare, Walter de, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Clarendon, Earl of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</li> + +<li>Clarendon, Lord, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li> + +<li>Clausentum, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Cleddan River, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Cliefden, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifford Castle, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifford, Lord, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifford, Rosamond, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifford's Tower, York, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifton, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardness, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li> + +<li>Clifton-Hampden, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Clinton, Geoffrey de, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li> + +<li>Clock Tower, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li> + +<li>Clock Tower, Westminister, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Clovelly, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a>.</li> + +<li>Clovelly Court, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li> + +<li>Clumber Park, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">[Pg 526]</a></span>Clwyd River, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Clytheroe Castle, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Coal-mines, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li> + +<li>Cobb Pier, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Cobbett, Colonel, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Cobden, Richard, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Cobden Hall, Rochester, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Codex Beza, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Coed-pen-Maen, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Cœur de Leon, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li> + +<li>Coldwell, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Coleridge, S. T., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>College Walks, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>Colman's mustard, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Coln River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Color Court, St. James Palace, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Combe Martin, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li> + +<li>Commemoration Day, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Common Hard, Portsea Dockyard, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Compton Castle, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Comus, Masque of</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + +<li>Conderum, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Congleton, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Coningsby, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Conrad's Choir, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Constable's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Constantine the Great, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Constantius Chlorus, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Conway Castle, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li> + +<li>Conway River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + +<li>Cookes, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Copper King, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li> + +<li>Copper-mines, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Copper-works, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li> + +<li>Coquet Island, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li> + +<li>Corbière Promontory, Jersey, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>Corfe Castle, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Corincus, Giant, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>Corinium, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Cormoran, Giant, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>Corner Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Cornet Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Cornwall, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Cornwall, Duchy of, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Cornwallis, Lord, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>Coronation chairs, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + +<li>Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li> + +<li>Corpus Christi College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Corwen, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Cotswold Hills, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li> + +<li>Cotton, Charles, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Count of the Saxon Shore, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li> + +<li>"Country Bridal," the, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li> + +<li>Court of Arches, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li> + +<li>Court of St. James, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Coventry, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Cowdray Ruins, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Cowes, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Cowes Harbor, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Cowey Stakes, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Cowley, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Cox, Bishop of Ely, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>.</li> + +<li>Cranbrook, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Cranbrook Church, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Cranmore Pool, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Crescents, Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Creslow House, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Crewe, Baron Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li> + +<li>Cricklade, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Crimea trophies, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Crocodile's Tears, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>Cromlechs, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li> + +<li>Cronk-ny-Jay Llaa, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Cross, Banbury, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + +<li>Cross, Winchester, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>Crosses, Market, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Crowland Abbey, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Croxden Abbey, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Crumlyn Bog, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Crusoe, Robinson, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Crystal Palace, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li> + +<li>Cumberland, Clifford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li> + +<li>Cumberland, Earl of, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + +<li>Cumberlandshire, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Cumnor Hall, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Cursus, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li> + +<li>Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li> + +<li>Cutlery, Sheffield, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>.</li> + +<li>Culver Cliff, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Dacre, Lord, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Dairyman's Daughter, The</i>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Dale, John, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li> + +<li>Dalton, Dr., <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li> + +<li>Dane River, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Darling, Grace, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Darnley, Earl, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Dart River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Dartmouth, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li> + +<li>Daventry, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li> + +<li>David, King of Scotland, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Davy, Sir Humphry, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Dawlish, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>De Gray, Walter, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>De Lacy, Baron Ilbert, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li> + +<li>De Ros family, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Deadly Nightshade, Valley of, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Deal, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Dean Forest, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Dean's Eye, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li>Deans, Jeanie, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>.</li> + +<li>Death Rock, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Dee, Miller of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + +<li>Dee River, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Dee, Sands o', <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + +<li>Deepdale, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Deepdene, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Denbies, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Denbigh, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + +<li>Dene, Ralph de, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Dennis Duval, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Derby, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Derby Day, Epsom, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Derby, Earls of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Derbyshire, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Derbyshire marbles, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>.</li> + +<li>Derwent River, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Derwentwater, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Derwentwater, Earl of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>Despenser, Hugh, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>D'Eulx, Chevalier, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Devil's Bellows, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li> + +<li>Devil's Coits, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Devon, Countess of, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Devon, Earls of, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Devonport, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Devonshire, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Devonshire, Earl of, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Dewerstone, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Dickens, Charles, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Digby, Earl of, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Digby, G. D. Wingfield, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Dinan, Joyce de, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Dinas Bran Castle, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + +<li>Dingles, the, Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Disraeli, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Ditchling Beacon, Brighton, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Do, Mary, tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Dockyard, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li> + +<li>Dolwyddelan, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + +<li>Don River, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Donington Hall, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Doone Glen, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Dorchinges, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Dore, Mary, tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Dore River, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li>Dorking, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Dorking, Battle of, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Dorking fowls, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Dorsetshire, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Double Cube-room, Wilton, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li> + +<li>Douglas, death, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>Dour River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Dove Holes, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Dovecote, Holmwood Park, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Dovedale, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li> + +<li>Dover, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Dover Castle, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Dovey River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + +<li>Dowards, Great and Little, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Dowlands landslip, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Downing College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Downing Street, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + +<li>Downs, the, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Downton Castle, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li> + +<li>Drake, Sir Francis, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Drawing Room, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Drayton, Michael, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Drayton, poet, <a href='#Page_522'>522</a>.</li> + +<li>Drummond, Henry, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>Dubræ River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Dudley, Earl of Leicester, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Dugdale, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Duke of Cornwall Harbor, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Duke of Wellington Flagship, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Dukeries the, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Dukesborough, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li> + +<li>Dulas River, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Dunciad, The</i>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunford House, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Dungeness Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunhelm, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunkery Beacon, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunstan, Abbot of Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunster, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Dunster Castle, Siege, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Dupplin, Lady Betty, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_527" id="Page_527">[Pg 527]</a></span>Durham, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>.</li> + +<li>Durham, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li> + +<li>Durham Castle, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li> + +<li>Durham Cathedral, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li> + +<li>Durham, Earls of, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Durovernum, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Dwr River, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Dyer, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li> + +<li>Dyfi River, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Eadwine, King, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li> + +<li>Eadwine's Tomb, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Eagle and Child, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + +<li>Eagle Honour Castle, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Eagle Rock, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li>Eagle Tower, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>.</li> + +<li>Earl Hugh's Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Earl's Drive, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Earl's Park, Wilton, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Easby Abbey, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>East Cow, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>East Lyn River, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>.</li> + +<li>Eaton Hall, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + +<li>Eaton Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Ebbsfleet, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Eboracum, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Ebrane, King, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Eddystone Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Edeirnim Vale, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Eden River, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgar, King, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgar Tower, Worcester, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgecot, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgecumbe, Mount, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgehill Battle, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li> + +<li>Edgehill Battlefield, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li> + +<li>Edial, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Edmund, King, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward, King, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward I., <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward II., <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward II.'s murder, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward II.'s Shrine, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward III., <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward IV., <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward VI., <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward the Black Prince, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward, Black Prince, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Edward the Confessor's Chapel, Westminster, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + +<li>Eel-Pie Island, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Egbert, King, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Egyptian Hall, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Eldon, Chancellor, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Eldon, Earl of, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Eleanor of Aquitaine's Tomb, Beaulieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Eleanor, Queen, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + +<li>Elford the Royalist, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Eliseg's Pillar, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth Castle, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth, Princess, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth's Tomb, Newport, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth's Court, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth's Defiance, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + +<li>Elkington, Messrs., <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li> + +<li>Ellesmere Canal, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + +<li>Elstow, Bedford, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li> + +<li>Elswick, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Elton, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + +<li>Ely, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Ely Cathedral, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li> + +<li>Ely, Isle of, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li> + +<li>Ely River, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Emerson, Ralph Waldo, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li> + +<li>Emma, Queen, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Emmanuel College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Emperor Fountain, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li> + +<li>Encombe, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Endsleigh, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Endymion, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>English Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Epping Forest, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + +<li>Epsom Races, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Epsom Salts, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Erasmus' Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li> + +<li>Eric, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Erme River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Ermine Street, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Ermine Street Road, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li> + +<li>Ernisius, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Erpingham, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li> + +<li>Esk River, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Essex, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Essex, Earls of, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Ethelbald, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li> + +<li>Ethelbert, King, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li> + +<li>Ethelfleda, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Eton College, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li> + +<li>Eurydice wrecked, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Euston Square Station, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li> + +<li>Evelyn, John, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Evelyn's <i>Diary</i>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Evenlode River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Evergreen Drive, Woburn, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + +<li>Evershed Rough, Wolton, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Ewer, Colonel, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Ewias, Harold, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Ewiasvale, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Ewloe Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Exanceaster, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Exchequer Gate, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Exe River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter Cathedral, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter, Earl of, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter Gardens, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Exeter, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Exmoor, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li> + +<li>Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Eynsham, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Faerie Queene, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Fair Rosamond, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Fair Rosamond's birthplace, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Fair Rosamond's coffin, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li> + +<li>Fairfax, Lord, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li> + +<li>Falkland, Lord, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Falmouth, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Falmouth Harbor, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Falstaff Inn, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Falstaff, Sir John, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li> + +<li>Farnborough, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li> + +<li>Farne, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Farringford, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Fawkes, Guy, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Feathers Inn, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Fell, Dean, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Fenland, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Ferrars Abbey, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Ferrars, Earl, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Feversham, Lord, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Field of the Dead, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li> + +<li>Fiennes, John de, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li> + +<li>Finch, Lord Chancellor, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + +<li>Finger Pillory, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Fire Monument, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + +<li>Fish Street Hill, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + +<li>Fishes, Brighton Aquarium, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzalan, Richard, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzalans' tombs, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzgilbert, Richard, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzhanem, Robert, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzosborne, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Fitzwilliam, Viscount, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Five Sisters' Window, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Flambard, Bishop of Durham, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li> + +<li>Flamborough Head, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Fleet Ditch, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Fleet Estuary, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Flemings, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Flemyng, Richard, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Flint Castle, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + +<li>Flintshire, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + +<li>Floating Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>Flodden, Battle, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Fluellen, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li> + +<li>Folkestone, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Folly Bridge, Thames, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Fonthill Abbey, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li>Ford Castle, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>Foreign Office, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + +<li>Foreland, Dorset, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Foreland, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Forest Minstrel, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Forest of Dean, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Forfarshire wreck, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li> + +<li>Fors Noddyn, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + +<li>Forster, Anthony, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Fort George, Guernsey, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Fort Pitt, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Foss River, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li> + +<li>Fosse Dyke Canal, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Foston-le Clay, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Fotheringhay, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + +<li>Fountains Abbey, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Fountain Dale, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Fountains Dale, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li> + +<li>Fountains Hall, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li> + +<li>Fowey, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Fowey Pier, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Fowls, Dorking, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Fox and Hounds, Box Hill, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Fox, Bishop, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Fox, Charles James, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + +<li>Fox, George, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Fox, Henry Vassal, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + +<li>Freshwater, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Freshwater Gate, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Freshwater Peninsula, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Friar Tuck, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Friar's Crag, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>Friar's Heel, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li> + +<li>Friars, the, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_528" id="Page_528">[Pg 528]</a></span>Friar's Tower, the, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Frome River, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Furness Abbey, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Gad's Hill, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Gainsborough, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Galilee, Durham, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li> + +<li>Gallantry Bower, Clovelly, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li> + +<li>Garrick, David, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Garter, Order of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li> + +<li>Garway Hill, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Gates, Sir John, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Gaunt, John of, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li> + +<li>Gaveston, Piers, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Gee, Sir William, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Geoffrey of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>.</li> + +<li>George II., portrait, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>George III., <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>George IV., <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li> + +<li>George Inn, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>George Inn, Stamford, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Ghosts, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + +<li>Giant's Hole, Bristol, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li> + +<li>Gillkicker Point, Portsmouth Harbor, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Gillott's steel pens, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li> + +<li>Gilpin, John, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Gilpin, Rev. W., <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Gladstone, William E., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li> + +<li>Glamorganshire, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Glastonbury Abbey, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Gleawecesore, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Glendower, Owen, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li> + +<li>Glendower's Seat, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Glevum, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester, Duke of, tomb, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester Siege, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucester Spa, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li> + +<li>Gloucestershire, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Glyme River, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li> + +<li>Goblin Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Goderic de Winchcomb, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li> + +<li>Godiva, Lady, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>God's Providence House, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + +<li>Godstow Nunnery, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Godwine, Earl, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Cap, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Gallery, St. Paul's, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Gates, Woburn, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Grove, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Tower, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Golden Valley, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Goldstone, Prior, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Golgotha, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Goodrich Castle and Court, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li> + +<li>Goodrich Priory, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li> + +<li>Goodwin Sands, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Goodwood races, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Goose fair, Nottingham, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>.</li> + +<li>Gormund, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Goring, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Goring, Charles, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Goring, Lord, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li> + +<li>Goring, Rev. John, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Gosport, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Goudhurst, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Gower, Henry de, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li> + +<li>Grace Darling's Monument, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li> + +<li>Grace Dieu Abbey, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Grand Trunk Canal, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Grange, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Grantham, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Granville, Earl, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Granville, Richard de, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Gravesend, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + +<li>Graveyards, the, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li> + +<li>Gray's Inn, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Great and Little Hangman, Combe Martin, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Doward, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Fire, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Hall, Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Hampden, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Great North Road, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Orme's Head, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Park, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Paul, bell, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + +<li>Great St. Mary's Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Tom, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li> + +<li>Great Western Railway, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Greatham Church, <a href='#Page_498'>498</a>, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Green Dragon Inn, Worcester, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li> + +<li>Green Park, London, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + +<li>Greenaleigh Headland, Exmoor, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Greenwich, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li> + +<li>Grenofen, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Grenovicum, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li> + +<li>Grenville, Richard, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + +<li>Greta Hall, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Greta River, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Grevilles, Earls of Warwick, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Grey, Lady Jane, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + +<li>Grey, Sir John, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Groby, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Gros, William le, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Grosmont Castle, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Grosvenor Square, London, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Grouville Bay, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Guernsey, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Guesten Hall, Worcester, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li> + +<li>Guestling Brook, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>Guild Hall, Exeter, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>.</li> + +<li>Guildhall, Norwich, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li> + +<li>Guildford, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Guiordano, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Gun Wharf, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Gunpowder Plot, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li> + +<li>Guthlac, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>.</li> + +<li>Guthram, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Guttred the Dane, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li> + +<li>Guy of Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Guy's Cliff, Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Guy's Tower, Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Gwydyr House, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Gwynne, Nell, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>Gwynne, Nell, birthplace, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Hacket, Bishop, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + +<li>Haddon Hall, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.</li> + +<li>Hailsham, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Haldon Hills, Exmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Hall, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Hallam Manor, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li> + +<li>Halle, John, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li> + +<li>Haltwhistle, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Hammond's Ford, Alne River, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li> + +<li>Hamoaze, the, Tamar River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Hampden, John, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Hampshire, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Hampton Court, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Hanger, Selborne, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Hansom cabs, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Happy Valley, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Harcourt family, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Harcourt, Lord, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + +<li>Hardicanute, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li> + +<li>Hardwicke Hall, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li> + +<li>Harlech Castle, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li> + +<li>Harold, King, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + +<li>Harrison, John, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Harrow School, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>Harry Hereford, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Harry Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Hartland Point, Devon, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li> + +<li>Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Haslar Hospital, Gosport, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Hastings, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Hastings Castle, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Hastings, Lord, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Hastings, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Hastings, Warren, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Hatfield, Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li> + +<li>Hatfield House, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Hathaway, Anne, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Hathaway, Anne, Cottage, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Hatton, Anne, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Hatton, Sir Christopher, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Haverfordwest, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Hawarden Castle, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Hay Castle, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Hay Park, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Hayes Barton, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Hayes, Sir James, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Headon Hill, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Heath flowers, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>Heber, Bishop, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + +<li>Heights of Abraham, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li> + +<li>Helford River, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Helston, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Hemp, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Hengist, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Hengist and Horsa, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Hengistbury Head, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li> + +<li>Hengrave Hall, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li> + +<li>Henley Reach, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry II., <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry II.'s penance, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry III., <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry IV., tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry V., birthplace, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry VI., birthplace, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry VII., <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry VII.'s Chapel, Westminster, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry VIII., <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry VIII., tomb, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry Beauclerc, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry Beauclerc's death, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li> + +<li>Henry of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Herbert, George, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_529" id="Page_529">[Pg 529]</a></span>Herbert, Lord, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + +<li>Herbert, Lord of Lea, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li>Herbert, Sidney, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li>Herbert, Sir William, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Herbert's Statue, Pall Mall, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Hereford Cathedral, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li> + +<li>Hereford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Hereford, Harry, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Herefordshire Beacon, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Herne the Hunter, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Heron, Lady, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li> + +<li>Heron, Sir William, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>Heronry, Vinney Ridge, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Hertford, Earl of, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Hertfordshire, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>Hervey, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Hever Castle, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Hexham, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>High Down, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li> + +<li>High Level Bridge over Tyne, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>High Peak, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>High Tor, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li>High Town, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li> + +<li>Hill Tower, Dunster, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Hill, William, sexton, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>.</li> + +<li>Hilda, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Hillsborough, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Hinderskelf Cattle, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>.</li> + +<li>Hoare, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li> + +<li>Hobs, Robert, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Hobson, Admiral, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Hobson's Choice, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Hobson's Conduit, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Hock Tuesday, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.</li> + +<li>Hodder River, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Hodeni River, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Hoe, the, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Hog's Back, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Holbein, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Holgate, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Holland, Earl of, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + +<li>Holland House, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + +<li>Holland the regicide, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Holmby House, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li>Holme, Randall, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + +<li>Holmsdale, Surrey, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Holmwood, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Holt, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + +<li>Holt, Chief-Justice, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</li> + +<li>Holte, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Isle, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Headland, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Mountain, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Trinity Church, Hull, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Trinity Church, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Trinity Church, Ventnor, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Well, Malvern, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Holy Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Holyhead, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li> + +<li>Holywell, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Home, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Hood, Robin, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Hook, Theodore, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Hoole House, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Hooker, Richard, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li> + +<li>Hooper, John, Bishop, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Hope Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Hope, H. T., <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Hope's Nose, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>Horse Guards, Whitehall, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + +<li>Horsley, artist, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Horticultural Gardens, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + +<li>Horton, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Hosiery-making, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Hotspur, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>Hotspur's Chair, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Hotspur's Tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Houghton, Lord, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>.</li> + +<li>House of Commons, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + +<li>House of Delight, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + +<li>House of Peers, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + +<li>Houses of Parliament, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>How Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Howard Castle, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Howard, Henry, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>Howard, Lord of Effingham, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Howard, Lord Thomas, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Howard, Lord William, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li> + +<li>Howards' tombs, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Howitt's <i>Forest Minstrel</i>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Howsham, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Hudibras</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + +<li>Hudson, railway king, birthplace, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Hugh of Avelon, Bishop, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li> + +<li>Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li> + +<li>Hull, Mr., <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li> + +<li>Hull River, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li> + +<li>Hulne Priory, Alnwick Park, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li> + +<li>Humber River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li> + +<li>Humbleton Hill, battle, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>Hundred Men's Hall, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Huntingdon, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li>Huntley, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Hurst Castle, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Hurstmonceux Castle, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Huskisson, Joseph, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Hut-villages, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Hyde Park Corner, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + +<li>Hyde Park, London, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + +<li>Hyptocaust, Chester, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + +<li>Hythe, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Ida, King, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Idris's chair, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li> + +<li>Iffley, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + +<li>Ifon, David ap, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li> + +<li>Ignatius, Father, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li> + +<li>Iktis, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>Ilchester Castle. <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Ilchester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Ilkley, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Ina, King, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Ina's Rock, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Inner Temple, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Inns of Court, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Ireton, Colonel, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Iron-mills, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Iron ore, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Ironsides, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>Irwell River, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Isca, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Isis River, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Athelney, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Avelon, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Dogs, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Purbeck, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of St. Nicholas, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Thanet, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Itchen River, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Ivanhoe</i>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Ivy Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Jack the Giant-killer, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>James I., <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>James II., <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>James I. of Scotland. <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>James IV. of Scotland, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>James, G. P. R., <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Jan Ridd's tree, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li> + +<li>Jane, the Dairyman's Daughter, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Jarrow Monastery, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li> + +<li>Jason, Thorwaldsen's, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Jeffreys, Judge, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Jephson Gardens, Leamington, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Jersey, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>Jesmond, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Jesus College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Jesus College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Jet, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Jewel House, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + +<li>Jewry Wall, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + +<li>Jews' House, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Jews' Massacre, York, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>.</li> + +<li>Joan of Navarre, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Joan of the Tower, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + +<li>Jocelyn, Bishop, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>John, King, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li> + +<li>John, King, signs Magna Charta, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>John, King, tomb, Worcester, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li> + +<li>John of Gaunt, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>John of Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>John of Kent, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>John of Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Johnson, Dr. Samuel, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Jonson, Ben, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Jones, Inigo, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Joseph of Arimathea, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Joyce, Cornet, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li>Judhael's Castle, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li> + +<li>Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Keate, Head-master of Eton, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li> + +<li>Keats, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Keble College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Kempenfelt, Admiral, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Ken, Thomas, Bishop, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Ken, Bishop, parsonage, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Kendal Castle, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Kenilworth, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Kenilworth Castle, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li> + +<li>Kennet River, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Kensington Palace, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + +<li>Kent, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Kent, Duke of, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Kentchurch, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Keswick, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Kettel Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Keyham Point, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Kidder, Bishop, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Kilmarth Mountain, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Kilndown, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Kilpeck, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>Kimmeridge Vale, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Kinder Fall, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_530" id="Page_530">[Pg 530]</a></span>Kinderscout, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Kineton, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>King Alfred's White Horse, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>King Arthur's Cliffs, Tintagel, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>King Arthur's Round Table, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>King Arthur's Round Table, Newport, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>King Edward's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>King Monmouth, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>King of Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>King of the Peak, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Arms Inn, Lancaster, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>King's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Gateway, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Head Inn, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Manor, Guildford, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>King's Parade, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>Kingsley, Charles, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li> + +<li>Kingston, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Kingston-upon-Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirk Braddon, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirke, Colonel, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirke's Lambs, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirkgate Church, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirkgate, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Kirkham Priory, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Kitchen, Abbot's, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li> + +<li>Knebworth, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Knole, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Knott Mill, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li> + +<li>Knowsley Hall, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + +<li>Koh-i-noor Diamond, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + +<li>Kymin Hill, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li> + +<li>Kynance Cove, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li> + +<li>Kyrle, John, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Kytson, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Labillière, Major, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Laconia, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Lacy, William de, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Ladies of the Vale, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li> + +<li>Lady Chapel, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Lady of Caversham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Lady Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Laira Estuary, Plym River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Lake Country, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Lamb Row, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + +<li>Lamberhurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Lambert's Oaks, Banstead, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Lambeth Bridge, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Lambeth Palace, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + +<li>Lambton Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Lampreys, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li> + +<li>Lancashire, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</li> + +<li>Lancaster Castle, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li> + +<li>Lancaster, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>.</li> + +<li>Landor, Walter Savage, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li> + +<li>Landewednack, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li> + +<li>Landport, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Land's End, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Lansdowne Hill, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li>Landslip, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Lanfranc, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Langley Priory, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Langport, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Langton, Archbishop, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Languard Fort, Harwich, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Latimer, Bishop, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Launcelot of the Lake, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Launceston Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Law of Lydford, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Lazarus, Raising of, painting, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Lea Hall, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Lead-mines, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>League of Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Leam River, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Leamington, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Lebanon, cedars of, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>.</li> + +<li>Leche River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Lechlade, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Leconfield Castle, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Leeds, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Leeds Castle, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Leeta Monastery, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Leicester, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + +<li>Leicester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Leicester Hospital, Warwick, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li> + +<li>Leicestershire, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Leigh Woods, Bristol, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li> + +<li>Leighton, Sir Frederick, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Leith Hill, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li> + +<li>Leith Hill Place, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li> + +<li>Lennox, Earl of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Leo X., Pope, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>.</li> + +<li>Leofric, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>L'Espec, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Leveson, Sir John, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Leveson-Gowers, the, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Lewellyn, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li> + +<li>Leys Park, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Lichfield Cathedral, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + +<li>Liège Abbey, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln Castle, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln Cathedral, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln, Earl of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincoln's Inn, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Lincolnshire, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Lindisfarne, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Lindsay, Lord, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Lindum, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Lingen, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li> + +<li>Lion Rock, Kynance, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Lion's Den, Lizard, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li> + +<li>Liskeard, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Lisle, Alice, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>L'Isle, Baron de, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Little Doward, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Little Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Littlebury, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Liulph the Saxon, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Livingstone relics, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Liverpool, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + +<li>Lizard Peninsula, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Lizard Point, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Lizard Tower, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li> + +<li>Llandaff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Llangollen Valley, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Llanhodeni, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Llanrwst, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Llanthony Priory, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>.</li> + +<li>Llanthony Priory, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li> + +<li>Lledr River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + +<li>Llewellyn's tomb, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Lloyd's, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + +<li>Lloyd's Palace, Bishop, Chester, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + +<li>Llugwy River, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Llyffnant River, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Llyn Dyn, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>Lodden River, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Lodore Falls, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Loe, Sir William, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li> + +<li>Logan Rock, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Loidis, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Lollards' Dungeon, Chichester, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Lollards' Tower, Lambeth, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + +<li>Londinium, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>London, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>London Bridge, Torbay, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>London Stone, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>London Tavern, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + +<li><i>London Times</i>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Long Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Long Reach, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Long Valley, Aldershot, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>.</li> + +<li>Long Walk, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>Longfield, East Sheen, Surrey, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Longships, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Longstone Island, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li> + +<li>Longtown, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Loo Pool, Lizard, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>Lord's Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>Lorna Doone, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Lovel, Lord, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + +<li>Lovers' Walk, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li> + +<li>Lowell, James Russell, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Ludgate Hill, London, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + +<li>Ludlow Castle, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Lulworth Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Lundy Island, <a href='#Page_451'>451</a>.</li> + +<li>Lune River, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</li> + +<li>Lupus, Hugh, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Lycidas</i>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>Lyd River, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Lydford Castle, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>.</li> + +<li>Lym River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Lymington, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Lymington River, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Lyn River, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li> + +<li>Lynton, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li> + +<li>Lyndhurst, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>Lynmouth, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li> + +<li>Lyon, John, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>Lytton, Lord, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Macaulay, T. B., <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>Machno River, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + +<li>Madoc, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Madonie, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Maentwrog, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li> + +<li>Magdalen College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>Magdalen Walks, Oxford, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Magdalene College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Magna Charta, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Magna Charta Island, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Magnus, Thomas, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Maidenhead, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Maidstone, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Main Bench, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Malcolm III., <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li> + +<li>Malcolm's Well, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_531" id="Page_531">[Pg 531]</a></span>Mallard, the, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>Malt-Shovel Inn, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li> + +<li>Malthus, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Malvern Hills, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li> + +<li>Malvern Link, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Malvern Priory, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Malvern Wells, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Malwood Castle, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>.</li> + +<li>Man, Isle of, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Man of Ross, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Man-of-War Cove, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Man-of-War Rock, Lizard, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Manchester, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Manchester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li> + +<li>Mancunium, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Manners, John, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li> + +<li>Manners, Sir George, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li> + +<li>Manners, Thomas, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Manorbeer Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Mansfield, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li> + +<li>Mansion House, London, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>.</li> + +<li>Manthe Doog, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>.</li> + +<li>Manvers, Earl of, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Mapledurham, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Marble Arch, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Margate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Margaret, Countess of Richmond, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li> + +<li>Margaret of Anjou, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Margaret, Queen, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Marine Parade, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li> + +<li>Market Bosworth, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li> + +<li>Market crosses, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Market Harborough, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li> + +<li>Market Inn, Bridgwater, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Marlborough Column, Blenheim, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li> + +<li>Marlborough, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + +<li>Marlborough, Duke of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li> + +<li>Marlborough House, London, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + +<li>Marmion, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Marquis of Granby, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Marston Moor, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>Marten, Henry, regicide, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li> + +<li>Martin of Tours, <a href='#Page_447'>447</a>.</li> + +<li>Martin the lunatic, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>.</li> + +<li>Martin Tower, London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + +<li>Martin, Wykeham, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Martindale Hall, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>.</li> + +<li>Martyrs' Memorial, Oxford, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + +<li>Mary, Queen, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Mary, Queen, married, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, bower, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>.</li> + +<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, death, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Masque of Comus</i>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + +<li>Master's Court, Cambridge. <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>Master's Lodge, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Matlock, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li>Maud's Chapel, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + +<li>Maud, Empress, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Mauleverers, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li> + +<li>Mawddach River, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + +<li>Mayflower, the, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Medina River, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Medlock River, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>.</li> + +<li>Medmenham Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Medway River, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Memorial Window, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Menai Strait, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Mercery Lane, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Mereden House, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Merioneth, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + +<li>Merlin, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li> + +<li>Merlin's Hill, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Mermaid's Pool, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Mersey River, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Merton College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Messiah Church, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li> + +<li>Mew River, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Michelham Priory, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>Micklegate Bar, York, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>Middle Temple, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Middlesex, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Middlezoy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Midhurst, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Mildmay, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Milford, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Milford Haven, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li> + +<li>Milford, Lord, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Milton, John, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Minehead, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a>.</li> + +<li>Minstead, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Minster Lovel, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + +<li>Minstrels' Gallery, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li> + +<li>Minstrel Gallery, Lumley Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Miserrimus, tomb, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li> + +<li>Mitton parish, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Mixed Cloth Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Moat Hall, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Mob Quad, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Moberly, Bishop of Salisbury, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Mohan's Tor, Torbay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>Moira, Lord, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Mold, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Mole River, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Molly Mog, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Mona Isle, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + +<li>Moncton Fort, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Money Copse, Osborne House, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Monk, General, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth, Harry, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth caps, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth, Duke of, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth, John of, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth, King, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouth Road, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li> + +<li>Monmouthshire, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Monnow River, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li>Mont Orgueil Castle, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Montague House, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> + +<li>Montague, Viscount, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Montfort, Simon de, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li> + +<li>Montgomery Castle, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Montgomery, Roger de, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Montreville, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>More, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Moresco Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Moreton, Earl of, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Morgan's Mount, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Morley, Earl of, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Morte Bay, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Morte Point, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Morte Stone, Devonshire, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Morthoe, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Morthoe Church, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Morison, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Mortimer, Roger, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Mortimer's Tower, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Morton, Roman villa, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Mother Church of England, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Motherbank, Spithead, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount Batten, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount Edgecumbe, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount Edgecumbe, Earl of, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount Sorrel, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount Wise, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Mount's Bay, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li> + +<li>Moyle Court, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Much Wenlock, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li> + +<li>Mullyon Cove, <a href='#Page_455'>455</a>, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>Multangular Tower, York, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Mumbles, Swansea Bay, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li> + +<li>Murray, Lindley, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Murray's Guide</i>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Mustard, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li> + +<li>Mutton, South Down, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Mysteries of Udolpho</i>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Nadder River, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Nailheart, John, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li> + +<li>Nantwich, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Naphtha, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Napier, Lord, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Naseby, Battle of, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>.</li> + +<li>Nash, Beau, of Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Nash House, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Nash, Thomas, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Natural History of Selborne</i>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Naval Asylum, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + +<li>Naworth Castle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li> + +<li>Neath Abbey, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Neath River, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>.</li> + +<li>Needles, the, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li> + +<li>Nelson, Admiral, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Nelson's Column, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li> + +<li>Nelson's Tomb, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + +<li>Nelson's warship, Victory, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Netley Abbey, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville, Earl, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville, Maude, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville, Richard, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville's Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville's Cross, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Neville's Cross, battle, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>New Bridge, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>New Brighton, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + +<li>New Castle, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>New Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>New Church, Wilton, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li>New College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + +<li>New Court, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li> + +<li>New Forest, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>New Haven, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>New Inn, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li> + +<li>New Palace, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>.</li> + +<li>New Place, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>New Work, the, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Newark, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Newark Church, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>.</li> + +<li>Newarke Hospital, Leicester, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>.</li> + +<li>Newcastle, Duke of, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Newcastle, Earl of, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li> + +<li>Newcastle House, London, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + +<li>Newcastle-under-Lyme, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Newcastle-upon-Tyne, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_532" id="Page_532">[Pg 532]</a></span>Newland, John, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a>.</li> + +<li>Newport, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>. <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Newport Gate, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Newstead Abbey, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Newton, Abbot, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li> + +<li>Newton, Isaac, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Newton's Telescope, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>Newton's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Newtown Linford, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>Nicholas, Czar, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li> + +<li>Nickleby, Nicholas, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> + +<li>Nidum, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Nine Altars' Chapel, Durham, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> + +<li>Nine Altars' Chapel, Fountains Abbey, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>.</li> + +<li>Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Nore, the, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li> + +<li>Norfolk, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Norfolk, Duke of, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>Norham Siege, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li> + +<li>Norris Castle, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>North Bar, Beverley, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li> + +<li>North Barrule, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>North Foreland Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>North Hill, Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>North Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>North Sea, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Northamptonshire, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + +<li>Northern University, Durham, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Northumberland, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Northumberland, Earls of, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li> + +<li>Northumberland, Elizabeth, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li> + +<li>Northumbria, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Northumbria Westminster, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Norwich, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li> + +<li>Norwich Castle, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li> + +<li>Norwich Cathedral, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li> + +<li>Nottingham, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Nuneham Park, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Oak Meadow, Ross, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li> + +<li>Oak, Queen Elizabeth's, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>.</li> + +<li>Oakley Park, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Oaks Day, Epsom, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Oare, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Oare Valley, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Old King's Head Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Obelisk, Castle Howard, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li> + +<li>Observatory, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + +<li>Ocellum Promontorium, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Octagon Tower, Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</li> + +<li>Oslo, Archbishop, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Offa, King, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Offa's Dyke and Chair, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Okehampton, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Old Lizard Head, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Old Peter, bell, York, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>.</li> + +<li>Old Sarum, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Old Tabard Inn, London, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + +<li>Old Tom, Oxford, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + +<li>Oldcastle, Sir John, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Oldmixon, John, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>.</li> + +<li>Ollerton, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Order of the Garter, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li> + +<li>Ordulph, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Orgarius, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Oriel College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>Orrest Head, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Orwell River, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Osborne House, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Osengal Hill, Ramsgate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Osric, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Oswald, Bishop, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Oswy's tomb, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Otterbourn Battle, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>Ouse River, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li> + +<li>Ousenford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Overton, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + +<li>Owens College, Manchester, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>.</li> + +<li>Oxford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Oxfordshire, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Oystermouth Castle, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li> + +<li>Oysters, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Painted Hall, Greenwich, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + +<li>Palace of Justice, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + +<li>Palace of the Peak, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li> + +<li>Palmer's Guild, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Pang River, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Pangbourne, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Parliament House, Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + +<li>Parliament, Houses of, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Parlor, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Parr, Queen Catherine, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Parrett River, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Parson and Clerk, Dawlish, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>Paterson, William, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>.</li> + +<li>Paul, Great, bell, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + +<li>Paulinus, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Paul's Walk, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + +<li>Paxton, Sir Joseph, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li>Peace of Cuthbert, Durham, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>.</li> + +<li>Peacock Inn, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.</li> + +<li>Peak of Derbyshire, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + +<li>Peel, Sir Robert, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Peele Castle, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + +<li>Peeping Tom, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Pegwell Bay, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Pelham-Clinton family, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke College, Cambridge. <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke, Earls of, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke Marbles, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembroke, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li> + +<li>Pembrokeshire, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Penarth Roads, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Pen-Combick, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Penda, King, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Pendennis Castle, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Pennsylvania Castle, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Pennsylvania Suburb, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Pennine Hills, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Penny-come-quick, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Penrhyn Castle, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li> + +<li>Penshurst, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Penshurst Church, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Pentise, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Penwith Headland, Land's End, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Penzance, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Pepys' <i>Diary</i>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>.</li> + +<li>Pepys, Samuel, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Perch Rock Light, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + +<li>Percies, the, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Percy, Bishop, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>.</li> + +<li>Percy, Henry de, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>Percy, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</li> + +<li>Percy's Well, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Peter, Hermit, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li> + +<li>Peterborough Cathedral, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>.</li> + +<li>Peterhouse, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Petworth, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li> + +<li>Pevensey, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Peveril of the Peak, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>.</li> + +<li>Peverils, the, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Pfestiniog Vale, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li> + +<li>Pharos, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Philip, Archduke, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Philip of Spain, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Philippa, Queen, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Phœnix Tower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Pickering Tor, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Pictou Castle, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a>.</li> + +<li>Pierrepont House, Surrey, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Pilchard King, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Pilchards, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Pilgrim Fathers, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li> + +<li>Pindar's House, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + +<li>Pin-making, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Pistol Meadow, Lizard, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Pitt, Fort, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Pitt Press, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Pitt, William, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Pitt's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Pixies' House, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Plas Crug, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li> + +<li>Plas Newydd, Llangollen, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + +<li>Plas Newydd, Menai Strait, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Plumbago-mine, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Plym Bridge, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Plym River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Plym Steps, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Plymouth Sound, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Plympton Earl, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Plympton Maurice, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Plympton Priory, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Plympton St. Mary, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Plynlimmon, Mount, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Pocket Pistol, Queen Elizabeth's, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Poets' Corner, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Point Keyham, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Poison Cup of Clare, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Polden Hills, Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>. <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Pole, Reginald, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Pole, Reginald's, tomb, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Polpeor, <a href='#Page_459'>459</a>.</li> + +<li>Pomfret Marbles, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Ponsonby, Miss, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + +<li>Pont Cysylltau, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + +<li>Pontrilas Court, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Poole, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Poole Harbor, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Poore, Bishop, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>.</li> + +<li>Pope, Alexander, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Pope's Seat, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Pope's Tomb, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Pope, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>Porlock Bay, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Porlock Moor, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Port Madoc, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_533" id="Page_533">[Pg 533]</a></span>Port Tennant, Swansea, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li> + +<li>Porthcawl, Swansea Bay, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Portinscale, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland Bill, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland Castle, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland, Countess of, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland, Duke of. <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland Isle, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Portland Race, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a></li> + +<li>Portland stone, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Portsea, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Portsea Island, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Portsmuthe, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Post-office, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Pottergate Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Poultry Cross, Salisbury, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li> + +<li>Poultry, the, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + +<li>Powis, Earl, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Powisland, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + +<li>Powys Castle, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Pradanack Point, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li> + +<li>Pratt, Chief-Justice, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Precipice of Fishes, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Prescot, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + +<li>Prince Arthur's Tower, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Prince's Gate, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + +<li>Prince's Landing-Stage, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + +<li>Printing-House Square, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Prior, poet, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Prior Goldsmith's Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>Prior, Richard, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Priory Church, Christchurch, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li> + +<li>Prison, Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Proctor, Sir Stephen, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li> + +<li>Prospect, Ross, <a href='#Page_358'>358</a>.</li> + +<li>Prudhoe Castle, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Prudhoe Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>Prynne, William, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>.</li> + +<li>Ptolemy, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Puckaster Cove, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Purbeck, Isle of, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Purbeck marble, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Purkis, charcoal-burner, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Purley, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Putney, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Quarr Abbey, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Queens' College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li> + +<li>Queen's College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>Queen's House, Lyndhurst, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Queen's Tower, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Quicksall Lodge, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Race of Portland, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Radcliffe Library, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + +<li>Radcliffe, Mrs., <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li> + +<li>Radford, smuggler, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Radley, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li> + +<li>Radnor, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>Raglan Barracks, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Raglan Castle, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>Raising of Lazarus, painting, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Raleigh, Lady, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a>, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Raleigh's Tomb, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Ralph, Bishop of Shrewsbury, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Ralph, son of Geremund, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Ramparts, Amesbury, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>.</li> + +<li>Ramsgate, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Ranmore Common, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Ratæ, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + +<li>Ravine Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Reading, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Reading Abbey, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Rebecca, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Red Bridge, Southampton Water, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Red Hill, Worcester, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Red Horse, the, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li> + +<li>Red Lion Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Red Tower, York, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li> + +<li>Redbrook, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Redburn, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li> + +<li>Redlands Wood, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>.</li> + +<li>Redmoor Plain, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>.</li> + +<li>Redvers, Baldwin de, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Reform Club, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Regent Fort, Jersey, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>Regnum, <a href='#Page_494'>494</a>.</li> + +<li>Regulus, King of Man, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.</li> + +<li>Reigate Castle, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Remigius, Bishop, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Rennie, John, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Reynard's Hall, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Rheidol River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Rhenass Waterfall, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li> + +<li>Rhodehoin, Lyme Regis, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Rhuddlan Castle, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Ribble River, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Rich, Edmund, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Richard Crookback, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Richard's Castle, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li> + +<li>Richard's greyhound, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>Richard of Bury, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li> + +<li>Richard, Prior, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Richmond Castle, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li> + +<li>Richmond, Duke of, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Richmond, Earl of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Richmond Hill, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>Richmond, Rev. Legh, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Ridd, Jan, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>.</li> + +<li>Rievaulx Abbey, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Rimmer, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Ringwood, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Ripon, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>.</li> + +<li>Ripon, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Ripon Minster, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li> + +<li>Robert, Earl of Moreton, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Robert of Ewias, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li>Robert of Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Robert the Norman, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Robert the Norman's Tomb, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Robin Hood's Bay, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Robin Hood's Cave, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Robin Hood's Tower, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Robsart, Amy, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li>Roche End, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Rochester, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Rochester, Earl of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li> + +<li>Rock of Tiw, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Rocket, the, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Rocking Stone, Cardiff, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Roebuck Inn, Banbury, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</li> + +<li>Roman remains, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Roman villa, Morton, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Roman wall, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Romilly, Young, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Romney, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Romney Marsh, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Roodee, Chester, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + +<li>Rooke, Admiral, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Rookery, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Ros, Lord, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + +<li>Rosamond Clifford, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li> + +<li>Rosamond's Bower, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li> + +<li>Rose Inn, Wokingham, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Ross, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Ross Church, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a>.</li> + +<li>Ross, Man of, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a>.</li> + +<li>Rother River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Rotten Row, Hyde Park, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + +<li>Rougemont Castle, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li> + +<li>Roirgenront Hill, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Round Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Round Table, King Arthur's, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>Round Tower, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Round Tower, Windsor, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</li> + +<li>Rowlstone, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>Rows, Chester, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + +<li>Rowsley, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li> + +<li>Rowtor, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal Albert Hall, London, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal Clarence Victualling Yard, Gosport, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal Exchange, London, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal George wrecked, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal Victoria Hospital, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal William Victualling Yard, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Royal Yacht Club, Cowes, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Rufus's Stone, New Forest, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Rumbald's Moor, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Runcorn, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Runnimede, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Rupert, Prince, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</li> + +<li>Rushen Castle, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li> + +<li>Russell family, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Russell, John, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Russell, Lord, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Russell, Lord William, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li> + +<li>Russel, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Rutland, Dukes of, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Rutland, Earl of, killed, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Rutupiæ, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>Rydal Mount, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Ryde, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Rye, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Rye House, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Sacheverel, Dr., <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + +<li>Sackville-West, L. S., <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Saffron, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>Saffron Walden, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Saffron Walden Church, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Alban Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Albans, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Albans, battle, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Albans, Duke of, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Aldate's Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Aldhelm's Head, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Andrew's Cathedral, Hexham, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Andrew's Spring, Wells, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">[Pg 534]</a></span>St. Anne's Well, Malvern, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Anthony's Chapel, Penzance, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Asaph, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Aubin Bay, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Aubin Village, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Aubyn family, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Augustine's Abbey, Bristol, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Augustine's College, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Augustine's Monastery, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_481'>481</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Bede, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Bede's Shrine, Durham, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Bernard, Mont, Monastery, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Boniface Church, Bonchurch, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Briard Castle, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Bride's Church, London, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's Chapel, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's Chapel, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's Down, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's Spring, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Catharine's Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Chad, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Clement's Church, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Clement Danes Church, London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cross Hospital, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cuthbert, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cuthbert's Banner, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cuthbert's Chapel, Longstone, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cuthbert's Church, Wells, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Cuthbert's Shrine, Durham, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>.</li> + +<li>St. David's, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li> + +<li>St. David's Chapel, Llanthony, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>St. David's Head, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Dunstan, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Edmund Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Edmund's Shrine, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Elericus, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Ethelbert's Shrine, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Etheldreda, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>.</li> + +<li>St. George's Chapel, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>St. George's Statue, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Germain's Church, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Helier, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Herbert's Island, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Hilda, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Hugh's Shrine, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li> + +<li>St. James Palace, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + +<li>St. James Park, London, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + +<li>St. James's Statue, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's Chapel, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's Chapel, Peterborough, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's Chapel, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's Church, Cirencester, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's Church, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John's College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>St. John the Baptist Church, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Joseph's Chapel, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Lawrence Church, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Lawrence Church, Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Leonard's Chapel, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Leonard's Church, Hythe, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Margaret's Church, London, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Margaret's Church, Westminster, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Martha's Chapel, Guildford, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Martin's Church, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Martin's Church, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Martin's Church, Stamford, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary, Abbey, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Abbey, Tintern, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Abbey, York, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Bedgebury, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Chester-le-Street, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Oxford, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Saffron Walden, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Selborne, <a href='#Page_496'>496</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Tutbury, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Church, Warwick, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's College, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Hall, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary-le-Bow Church, London, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary Redcliffe Church, Bristol, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Square, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Templar Church, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary's Well, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mary Winton College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Mawe's Castle, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Chair, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Chapel, Scyrrid Vawr, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Church, Alnwick, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Church, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Church, Verulam, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Mount, <a href='#Page_460'>460</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Michael's Square, Southampton, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Milburgh, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Chapel, Ilfracombe, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Church, Arundel, <a href='#Page_493'>493</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Church, Guildford, <a href='#Page_465'>465</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Church, Romney, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Church, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Hospital, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Nicholas Isle, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Patrick, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Patrick's Causeway, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Paulinus, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Paul's Cathedral, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Cathedral, York, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Church, Rowlstone, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Church, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Church, Sandwich, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Church, Tower of London, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Church, Westminster, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Peter's Port, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Petrox Church, Dartmouth, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Sepulchre's Church, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Sidwell, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Stephen's Church, Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Stephen's Hall, Westminster, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Swithin's Church, London, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Swithin's Day, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Swithin's Shrine, Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Thomas à Becket, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Thomas à Becket Church, Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Thomas Cantelupe's Shrine, Hereford, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Thomas Church, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Thomas, Exeter, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Vincent's Rocks, Bristol, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Werburgh, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Werburgh Cathedral, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Wilfrid, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Wilfrid's Church, Brading, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Wilfrid's Shrine, Ripon, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li> + +<li>St. William, Norwich, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</li> + +<li>St. William's Shrine, York, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Winifrede, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Wulstan, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li> + +<li>St. Wulstan's Shrine, Worcester, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li> + +<li>Salcombe Hill, Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Salford, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury Cathedral, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury Chapel, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury, Countess of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury, Earl of, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>.</li> + +<li>Salisbury Plain, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>.</li> + +<li>Salt Tower, London, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + +<li>Saltram Woods, Plym River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>.</li> + +<li>Saluting Battery, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Salvin, architect, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a>.</li> + +<li>Sandown, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Sandown Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Sandsfoot Castle, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Sandwich, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>.</li> + +<li>Sandwich Haven, obstructions, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Newark, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>.</li> + +<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Southwell, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Saracen's Head Inn, Ware, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Sarawak, Rajah of, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Sark, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a>.</li> + +<li>Sarum, Old, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Saville's Tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Saxenhurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Saxon Shore, Count of, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>.</li> + +<li>Saxulf, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>.</li> + +<li>Saye and Sele, Lord, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + +<li>Scaleby Castle, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + +<li>Scarborough, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Scarborough, Earl of, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Scarborough warning, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Scar-burgh Castle, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Scarlet, sexton, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Scholfield, psalm singer, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>.</li> + +<li>Schomberg House, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Scilly Islands, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>.</li> + +<li>Sciont River, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Scolland's Hall, Richmond, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>Scotland Yard, London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + +<li>Scott, Sir Gilbert, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li> + +<li>Scott, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>.</li> + +<li>Scratchell's Cave, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>Scruffel Hill, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_535" id="Page_535">[Pg 535]</a></span>Scudamore, Earl of, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Scyrrid Vawr, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>.</li> + +<li>Seathewaite. <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + +<li>Sedgemoor, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Segontium, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Selborne, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Selsey Bill, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Selwyn, Bishop, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Selwyn, George, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + +<li>Senate House, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Seneca Dying in the Bath, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>.</li> + +<li>Senior Wrangler, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Serpentine rocks, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>"Seven Ages of Man," Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Seven Burrows, Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>.</li> + +<li>Sevenoaks, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Severn River, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Seven Sisters, Fountains Dale, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</li> + +<li>Seven Springs, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Severus, death, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Seymour, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>.</li> + +<li>Seymour, Lord of Sudeley, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Shaftesbury, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespear, John, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespeare, William, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespeare Memorial, Stratford, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespeare Trust, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespeare's Cliff, Dover, <a href='#Page_487'>487</a>.</li> + +<li>Shakespeare's House, Stratford, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li> + +<li>Shambles, York, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Shanklin, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Sharpham Woods, Dart River, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li> + +<li>Sharpitor, Mount, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Shaugh, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheaf River, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheep, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheeps Tor, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheerness, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheffield, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheffield Castle, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheldonian Theatre, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Shelley, Percy Bysshe, <a href='#Page_508'>508</a>.</li> + +<li>Shenstone, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherborne, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherborne Abbey, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherborne Bell, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherborne Castle, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherborne Grammar School, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherburne, Sir Nicholas, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheridan, Richard B., <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li> + +<li>Shifford, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Shooter's Hill, Woolwich, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + +<li>Shoreham, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Shottery, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Show Sunday, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Shrewsbury, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li> + +<li>Shrewsbury Castle, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li> + +<li>Shrewsbury, Countess of, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Shrewsbury, Earl of, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Shrimps, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Shropshire, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li> + +<li>Shuckburgh, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li> + +<li>Sherwood Forest, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Sheyne Monastery, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Sid River, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidbury, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidbury Gate, Worcester, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidford, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidmouth, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidney, Algernon, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidney, Mary, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidney, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidney, Sir Philip, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Sidney, Sir William, <a href='#Page_477'>477</a>.</li> + +<li>Silures' land, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</li> + +<li>Simnel, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + +<li>Simnel cakes, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li> + +<li>Simon's Seat, Bolton Abbey, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</li> + +<li>Sissinghurst, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Six Chimblies, Wakefield, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Sixtus V., Bible, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Skell River, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Skiddaw Forest, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + +<li>Skiddaw, Mount, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Slannings, the, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Slaughter, the, Wye River, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>.</li> + +<li>Slave-trade, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + +<li>Sleeping Children's Tomb, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li> + +<li>Sloane, Sir Hans, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li> + +<li>Slype, Oxford, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + +<li>Smeaton, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Smith, Sydney, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Smugglers, the, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Smuggling, <a href='#Page_456'>456</a>.</li> + +<li>Snaefell, Mount, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + +<li>Snodengahame, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Snow Hill, Windsor, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + +<li>Snowden, Mount, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Soar River, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li> + +<li>Soho, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + +<li>Solent, the, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>Solway Firth, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + +<li>Somers, Will, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li> + +<li>Somerset, Duke of, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li> + +<li>Somerset, Earl of, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Somerset House, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Somersetshire, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li> + +<li>Sonning, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Sorrel, Mount, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + +<li>South Downs, Sussex, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>South Foreland Lighthouse, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>South Kensington Museum, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.</li> + +<li>South Well, Southwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Southampton, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Southampton Water, <a href='#Page_501'>501</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Southey, Robert, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>.</li> + +<li>Southey, Robert, married, <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li> + +<li>Southsea, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>.</li> + +<li>Southsea Castle, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Southwell, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>.</li> + +<li>Southwell Minster, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>South-western Railway, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Sow River, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Sow and Boar, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Spa, Scarborough, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Spanish Armada, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_519'>519</a>.</li> + +<li>Spencer-Churchill family, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + +<li>Spenser, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Spit, the, Spithead, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Spithead, <a href='#Page_510'>510</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>.</li> + +<li>Spread Eagle Inn, Epsom, <a href='#Page_473'>473</a>.</li> + +<li>Stafford Castle, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Stafford, Lord, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Stafford, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Stafford, Thomas, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Staffordshire, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + +<li>Stag-hunting, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>.</li> + +<li>Staines, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + +<li>Stamford, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Standard, Battle of the, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanhope, John, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanhope, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanley House, Chester, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanley, Sir Edward, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanleys, the, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + +<li>Stanton Harcourt, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Stapleton, Walter, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Staunton Harold, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Staunton Lacey Church, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.</li> + +<li>Staunton Tower, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li> + +<li>Steele, Richaid. <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Steeple Rock, Kynance, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Stephen, King, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>.</li> + +<li>Stephens, Nathaniel, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Stephenson, George, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Steyning, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Stocking-knitting, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Stocks, the, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>Stoke, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + +<li>Stone Beam, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>.</li> + +<li>Stone of Scone, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + +<li>Stonebow, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Stonehenge, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>.</li> + +<li>Stonehouse, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Stony Cross Hill, Minstead, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Stonyhurst, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Stour River, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>, <a href='#Page_485'>485</a>, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>Stowe, Buckingham, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + +<li>Stowe, Lichfield, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.</li> + +<li>Stowell Park, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</li> + +<li>Strafford, Lord, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Strafford, Wentworth, Earl of, tomb, York, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Strand Gate, Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Stratford-on-Avon, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</li> + +<li>Strawberry Hill, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Strid, the, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</li> + +<li>Strong, Edward, tomb, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>.</li> + +<li>Strutt, Jedediah, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>.</li> + +<li>Studland Bay, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Studland Village, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Studley Royal, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Slukeley, Dr., <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Stukely, Sir Lewis, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Submarine Cable, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>.</li> + +<li>Sudbury, Archbishop, killed, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Sudeley Castle, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Sudwell, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>.</li> + +<li>Suffolk, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</li> + +<li>Suffolk, Duke of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Suffolk, Earl of, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Sugar Loaf, Abergavenny, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>.</li> + +<li>Sunday-school, first in England, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>.</li> + +<li>Sunninghill, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Sunningwell, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + +<li>Surrey, Earl of, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</li> + +<li>Surrey Side, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li> + +<li>Sussex South Downs, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Sutherland, Duke of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Sutherland, Harriet, Duchess of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Sutton Pool, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Sutton, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + +<li>Swale River, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>.</li> + +<li>Swallow Fall, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Swanage, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Swanage Bay, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Swannery, Abbotsbury, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">[Pg 536]</a></span>Swansea, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>.</li> + +<li>Swansea Castle, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>.</li> + +<li>Swanwich, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>.</li> + +<li>Sweyne, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>.</li> + +<li>Swift, Dean, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Swift, Father, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Swynford, Katharine, tomb, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>.</li> + +<li>Sydney Garden, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Sylva</i>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Symonds, Symond, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li> + +<li>Symond's Yat, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Syntax, Dr., <a href='#Page_505'>505</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Tabard Inn, Southwark, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Taff River, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li> + +<li>Talbot Arms, Newark, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Talbot, John, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.</li> + +<li>Taliesin, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Tamar River, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Tame River, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + +<li>Tamworth, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + +<li>Tankerfield, martyr, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</li> + +<li>Tan-y-hutch, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li> + +<li>Taplow, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Tarquin, giant, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Tatbury, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>.</li> + +<li>Tavistock Abbey, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Tavy River, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Tawe River, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Taylor, Jeremy, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Teasels. <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Teddington Lock, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Tees River. <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>.</li> + +<li>Teign River, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Teignmouth, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>Teise River, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Temple Bar, London, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + +<li>Temple, Sir William, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</li> + +<li>Tenby Castle, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>.</li> + +<li>Tennyson, Alfred, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>, <a href='#Page_521'>521</a>.</li> + +<li>Tenterden, <a href='#Page_478'>478</a>.</li> + +<li>Tenterden Steeple, <a href='#Page_479'>479</a>.</li> + +<li>Test River, <a href='#Page_509'>509</a>.</li> + +<li>Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</li> + +<li>Tewkesbury Abbey, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li> + +<li>Tewkesbury Battle, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li> + +<li>Thackeray, W. M., <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Thames Ditton, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Thames Head, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Thames River, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>.</li> + +<li>Thanet Isle, <a href='#Page_483'>483</a>.</li> + +<li>Theoe, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li> + +<li>Theulf, Bishop, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>.</li> + +<li>Thistledon, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Thomson, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Thoresby Hall, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Thorney Island, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + +<li>Thornhill, Sir James, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + +<li>Thornton, John, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>Thorwaldsen's Jason, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Three Crowns Inn, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + +<li>Throgmorton, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>.</li> + +<li>Thrydwulf, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>.</li> + +<li>Tidenham Rocks, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li> + +<li>Tilbury Fort, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + +<li>Till River, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>Tillingham River, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Times, London</i>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Tip cat, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li> + +<li>Tin-mines, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>.</li> + +<li>Tintagel Castle, <a href='#Page_452'>452</a>.</li> + +<li>Tintern Abbey, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Tintem Parva, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>.</li> + +<li>Tissington Spires, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Tiw, Rock of, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a>.</li> + +<li>Tom, Great, Lincoln, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>.</li> + +<li>Tom Quad, Oxford, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + +<li>Tombland, Norwich, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a>.</li> + +<li>Tone River, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>.</li> + +<li>Tor Hill, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Torbay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>.</li> + +<li>Torquay, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a>, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a>.</li> + +<li>Torrent Walk, Dolgelly, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</li> + +<li>Torridge River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>.</li> + +<li>Tostig, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>.</li> + +<li>Totnes, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>.</li> + +<li>Touching for King's Evil, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</li> + +<li>Tower of London, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>.</li> + +<li>Tower Subway, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + +<li>Town and Gown Quarrels, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li> + +<li>Town Hall, Birmingham, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li> + +<li>Town Hall, Hull, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li> + +<li>Town Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Towton Battlefield, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>Towy River, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>.</li> + +<li>Tracy, Sir William, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Trafalgar Square, London, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.</li> + +<li>Traitor's Gate, Tower, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + +<li>Treasury Building. London, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + +<li>Trefriw, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + +<li>Trelawney, Bishop, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a>.</li> + +<li>Trent River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Trentham Hall, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Trewsbury Mead, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + +<li>Triangular Bridge, Crowland, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</li> + +<li>Tribunal, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Tricengham, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity Chapel, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity Chapel, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity Church, Coventry, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity College, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity Hall, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Trinity House, Hull, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</li> + +<li>Tripos, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>.</li> + +<li>Trothy River, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</li> + +<li>Trowlesworthy, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a>.</li> + +<li>Trumpington, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>.</li> + +<li>Trumpington, Miller of, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>.</li> + +<li>Tuck, Friar, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Tun River, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Tunbridge, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Tunbridge Castle, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Tunbridge Wells, <a href='#Page_476'>476</a>.</li> + +<li>Tunstall, Bishop, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</li> + +<li>Turpin, Dick, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>.</li> + +<li>Tutbury Castle, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + +<li>Tweed River, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>.</li> + +<li>Twelve Apostles, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + +<li>Twickenham, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + +<li>Two-Battle Farms, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Twynham, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>.</li> + +<li>Tyler, Wat, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>Tyne River, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>.</li> + +<li>Tyril, Walter, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Tysen, Gilbert, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Ulverscroft, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</li> + +<li>Under the Shadow of the Cross, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li> + +<li>Undercliff, the, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_517'>517</a>.</li> + +<li>Underground Railway, London, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</li> + +<li>University College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>University Library, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>.</li> + +<li>Upnor Castle, Chatham, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Ure River, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>.</li> + +<li>Uriconium, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li> + +<li>Usk River, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Valle Crucis Abbey, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + +<li>Valley of Deadly Nightshade, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Van Tromp, Admiral, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a>, <a href='#Page_480'>480</a>.</li> + +<li>Vanbrugh, John, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</li> + +<li>Vandyck's Charles I., <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Vandyck's masterpiece, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>.</li> + +<li>Varney, Sir Richard, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + +<li><i>Vathek</i>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li>Vectis, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Vellan Head, Cornwall, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>.</li> + +<li>Venta Belgarum, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Ventnor, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Venus rising from the Bath, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Ver River, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + +<li>Verne Hill, Portland, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a>.</li> + +<li>Verney, Sir Edmund, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + +<li>Vernon, Dorothy, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</li> + +<li>Vernon, Sir George, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li> + +<li>Vernon, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</li> + +<li>Verulam, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + +<li>Vesci, Eustace de, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>.</li> + +<li>Vicar of Bray, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Vicar of Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Vicar's Close, Wells, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria Gallery, Westminster, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria Park, Bath, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria, Queen, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a>, <a href='#Page_515'>515</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria Regia, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria Spa, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria Tower, Westminster, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria's Birthplace, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria's Coronation, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria's First Court, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Victoria's Marriage, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + +<li>Victory man-of war, <a href='#Page_511'>511</a>.</li> + +<li>Victory, wreck, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>Vignals, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + +<li>Vikings' Invasion, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Vineyard, the, Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>.</li> + +<li>Vinney Ridge Heronry, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Virginia Water, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Virgins, Wise and Foolish, painting, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Vivian, John Henry, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Wadham College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Wakefield, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>Wakefield Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + +<li>Walden, Abbey, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Wales, Prince of, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>.</li> + +<li>Wallingford, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>Wallsend, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Walmer, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>-<a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Walmer Castle, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Walney Island, Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Walpole, Horace, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>.</li> + +<li>Walter, John, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Walters, Lucy, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Waltheof, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li> + +<li>Walton, Anne, tomb, Worcester, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</li> + +<li>Walton, Izaak, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>War Office, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_537" id="Page_537">[Pg 537]</a></span>Warbeck, Perkin, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>Warburton, Bishop, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a>.</li> + +<li>Ware, Great Bed of, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>.</li> + +<li>Wareham, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Warrenne, Earl, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>Warrington, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + +<li>Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Warwick, Earls of, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>.</li> + +<li>Warwick the King-maker, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.</li> + +<li>Warwick Vase, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + +<li>Warwickshire, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</li> + +<li>Wash, the, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Watch-Tower, Furness, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.</li> + +<li>Watching Gallery, St. Albans, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>.</li> + +<li>Water Tower, Chester, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + +<li>Waterford, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>.</li> + +<li>Waterloo Bridge, London, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + +<li>Watersmeet, Lyn River, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a>.</li> + +<li>Watersmouth, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>.</li> + +<li>Waynflete, William of, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + +<li>Weald of Kent, <a href='#Page_474'>474</a>.</li> + +<li>Weald of Sussex, <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>.</li> + +<li>Wear River, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>.</li> + +<li>Weary-all Hill, Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +<li>Webster, artist, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>.</li> + +<li>Weddell, William, of Newby, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Wedgewood, Josiah, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + +<li>Welbeck Abbey, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Welland River, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</li> + +<li>Weller, Samuel, <a href='#Page_470'>470</a>.</li> + +<li>Wellington, Duke of, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_486'>486</a>.</li> + +<li>Wellington Statue, London, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + +<li>Wellingtons Tomb, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + +<li>Wells, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>.</li> + +<li>Wells Cathedral, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a>.</li> + +<li>Welsh Bickner, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</li> + +<li>Welsh Pool, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + +<li>Wenlock Abbey, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.</li> + +<li>Wensum River, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>.</li> + +<li>West, Benjamin, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>West Cow, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>West Gate, Canterbury, <a href='#Page_482'>482</a>.</li> + +<li>West Gate, Winchester, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>West Lyn River, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a>.</li> + +<li>West Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>West Pier, Brighton, <a href='#Page_491'>491</a>.</li> + +<li>Westbury College, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a>.</li> + +<li>Westminster, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + +<li>Westminster Abbey, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + +<li>Westminster Bridge, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Westminster, Duke of, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + +<li>Westminster Hall, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.</li> + +<li>Westmorelandshire, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Wesley, John, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + +<li>Wessex, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a>.</li> + +<li>Weston, George and Joseph, <a href='#Page_489'>489</a>.</li> + +<li>Weston Zoyland Church, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>.</li> + +<li>Wey River, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_463'>463</a>. <a href='#Page_464'>464</a>, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>Weymouth, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Weymouth Bay, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>Whaddon Hall, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Whalley Abbey, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>.</li> + +<li>Whalley, Richard, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>.</li> + +<li>Wharfe River, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>Whippingham, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Whispering Gallery, Gloucester, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>.</li> + +<li>Whispering Gallery, St. Paul's, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitby, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitby Abbey, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitchurch, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + +<li>White Cloth Hall, Leeds, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>.</li> + +<li>White Hart Inn, Ringwood, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>.</li> + +<li>White Homestead, Whitby, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</li> + +<li>White Horse Hill, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>White Horse Inn, Dorking, <a href='#Page_469'>469</a>.</li> + +<li>White Nore, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>.</li> + +<li>White, Rev. Gilbert, <a href='#Page_495'>495</a>.</li> + +<li>White, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>White Tower, London, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitebait, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitecliff Bay, Isle of Wight, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitehall, Westminster, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitgarasbyrg, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Whiting, Abbot of Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>.</li> + +<li>Whitney, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + +<li>Whittingham, Dean, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</li> + +<li>Widemarsh, Hereford, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a>.</li> + +<li>Widvile, Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>.</li> + +<li>Wight, Isle of, <a href='#Page_507'>507</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>Wigoma Ceaster, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilberforce, Bishop Samuel, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilberforce, Bishop Samuel, death, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilberforce, William, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilderness, Cambridge, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li> + +<li>Wiley River, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilfrid's Needle, Ripon, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilkes, John, <a href='#Page_516'>516</a>.</li> + +<li>Willersley Castle, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</li> + +<li>Willis, Browne, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + +<li>Willytown, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilmot, Lord, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>William III., <a href='#Page_271'>271</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_426'>426</a>.</li> + +<li>William III.'s landing-place, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>William of Wykeham, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>William, Prince, drowned, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>.</li> + +<li>William Rufus killed, <a href='#Page_503'>503</a>, <a href='#Page_504'>504</a>.</li> + +<li>William Rufus tomb, Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>William the Conqueror, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a>.</li> + +<li>William the Conqueror's landing, <a href='#Page_490'>490</a>.</li> + +<li>William the Lion, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</li> + +<li>William the Norman, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilton carpet, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilton Castle, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>.</li> + +<li>Wilton House, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>.</li> + +<li>Wiltshire, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a>.</li> + +<li>Wimborne Minster, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchelsea, <a href='#Page_484'>484</a>, <a href='#Page_488'>488</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchelsea, Countess of, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchester, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchester, Bishop of, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchester Castle, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Winchester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_499'>499</a>.</li> + +<li>Windermere, Lake, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + +<li>Windmills, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>, <a href='#Page_497'>497</a>.</li> + +<li>Windrush River, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + +<li>Windsor Castle, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li> + +<li>Windsor Park, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>.</li> + +<li>Winstanley, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_439'>439</a>.</li> + +<li>Winthuysen, Admiral, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</li> + +<li>Wirral, the, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + +<li>Wise and Foolish Virgins, painting, <a href='#Page_502'>502</a>.</li> + +<li>Wise, Mount, Plymouth, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>.</li> + +<li>Wishing Stone, Selborne, <a href='#Page_498'>498</a>.</li> + +<li>Wiston Manor, <a href='#Page_492'>492</a>.</li> + +<li>Witan of the Saxons, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a>.</li> + +<li>Witch of Wookey, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li> + +<li>Witches, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.</li> + +<li>Witham River, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>.</li> + +<li>Wnion River, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li> + +<li>Woburn Abbey, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + +<li>Wokingham, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>.</li> + +<li>Wolsey, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>.</li> + +<li>Wolvesey Castle, <a href='#Page_500'>500</a>.</li> + +<li>Wood, architect of Bath, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>.</li> + +<li>Wood, Dr., Dean of Ely, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>.</li> + +<li>Woodmansterne, Epsom, <a href='#Page_472'>472</a>.</li> + +<li>Woodstock, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + +<li>Wookey Hole, Mendip Hills, <a href='#Page_406'>406</a>.</li> + +<li>Woolsack, the, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + +<li>Woolverton Chapel, Niton, <a href='#Page_518'>518</a>.</li> + +<li>Woolwich Dockyard, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + +<li>Worbarrow Bay, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester, battle. <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester Cathedral, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester College, Oxford, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester, Marquis of, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcester Sauce, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>.</li> + +<li>Worcestershire Beacon, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Wordsworth, William, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>.</li> + +<li>Worksop, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>.</li> + +<li>Wormridge, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</li> + +<li>Wotton Church, Dorking, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Wotton House, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>.</li> + +<li>Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + +<li>Wrexham Church, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + +<li>Wyatt's Rebellion, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>.</li> + +<li>Wyche, the, Malvern, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a>.</li> + +<li>Wye River, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>.</li> + +<li>Wykeham, William of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + +<li>Wylam, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</li> + +<li>Wyncliff, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li> + +<li>Wynnstay, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + +<li>Wyntour's Leap, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>.</li> + +<li>Wytham Abbey, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Yar River, <a href='#Page_520'>520</a>.</li> + +<li>Yarmouth, <a href='#Page_506'>506</a>, <a href='#Page_513'>513</a>, <a href='#Page_514'>514</a>.</li> + +<li>Yealm River, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Yes Tor, Dartmoor, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>.</li> + +<li>Ynys-gwyth, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>York, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>.</li> + +<li>York, Archbishop of, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>, <a href='#Page_512'>512</a>.</li> + +<li>York Castle, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>.</li> + +<li>York, Duke of, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>.</li> + +<li>York, Duke of, killed, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</li> + +<li>York Minster, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>.</li> + +<li>Yorkshire, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>.</li> + +<li>Yorkshire coast, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>.</li> + +<li>Yr Wyddgrug, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li><li> </li><li>Zinc-mines, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>.</li> + +</ul> + + + + +<p class="center">THE END.</p> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND *** + +***** This file should be named 29787-h.htm or 29787-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/7/8/29787/ + +Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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