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diff --git a/29728.txt b/29728.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6bd8d4f --- /dev/null +++ b/29728.txt @@ -0,0 +1,19382 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome + +Author: Apicius + +Commentator: Prof. Frederick Starr + +Translator: Joseph Dommers Vehling + +Release Date: August 19, 2009 [EBook #29728] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKING IN IMPERIAL ROME *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +The original text used a Prescription Take symbol (upper case R with a +line through the leg) to indicate recipe numbers. It is shown as {Rx} +in this version of the etext. + +Some letters have a macron (straight line) above them; these are +indicated as {=x}, with x being the particular letter. + +The book uses both upper and lower case oe ligatures. These are shown +as {OE} and {oe} respectively. + +The many inconsistencies in hyphenation and use of accents and +ligatures have been preserved as printed, with a few exceptions. +Variable and archaic spelling has also been preserved. A full +list of amendments and other notes follow the end of the book. + +A considerable number of the recipe and page numbers in the +index are incorrect; however, they have been preserved as +printed. + + + + + APICIUS + + COOKERY AND DINING IN IMPERIAL ROME + + A Bibliography, Critical Review and Translation of the + Ancient Book known as _Apicius de re Coquinaria_ + + NOW FOR THE FIRST TIME RENDERED INTO ENGLISH + + BY + JOSEPH DOMMERS VEHLING + + _With a Dictionary of Technical Terms, Many Notes, + Facsimiles of Originals, and Views and Sketches of + Ancient Culinary Objects Made by the Author_ + + INTRODUCTION BY PROF. FREDERICK STARR + _Formerly of the University of Chicago_ + + + + +{Transcription: + + APICII LIBRI X + + QVI DICVNTVR DE OBSONIIS + ET CONDIMENTIS SIUE ARTE + COQVINARIA QVAE EXTANT + + + NVNC PRIMVM ANGLICE REDDIVIT PRO{OE}MIO + BIBLIOGRAPHICO ATQVE INTERPRETATIONE + DEFENSIT UARIISQVE ANNOTATIONIBVS + INSTRVXIT ITA ET ANTIQVAE CVLINAE + VTENSILIARVM EFFIGIIS EXORNAUIT + INDICEM DENIQVE ETYMOLOGICVM ET + TECHNICVM ARTIS MAGIRICAE ADIECIT + + + IOSEPHVS DOMMERS UEHLING + + INTRODVCIT FRIDERICVS STARR + + {Illustration}} + + + + +SUBSCRIBERS + +HAND-MADE PAPER, LIMITED EDITION + + Mary Barber, Battle Creek, Mich. + Morton S. Brookes, Chicago, Ill. + Caxton Club, Chicago, Ill. + Gaylord Donnelley, Chicago, Ill. + F. H. Douthitt, Chicago, Ill. + Helen E. Gilson, Philadelphia, Pa. + John Herrmann, Chicago, Ill. + W. T. H. Howe, Cincinnati, O. + Dr. Samuel W. Lambert, New York, N. Y. + Tom L. Powell, Houston, Texas + Arnold Shircliffe, Chicago, Ill. + W. A. 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Tucker, Chicago, Ill. + University of Illinois Library, Urbana, Ill. + University of Illinois, College of Medicine, Chicago, Ill. + University of Maryland Library, College Park, Md. + University of Nebraska Library, Omaha, Neb. + University of Notre Dame Library, South Bend, Ind. + University of Texas Library, Austin, Texas + U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Library, Washington, D.C. + Harold Van Orman, Evansville, Ind. + T. Louise Viehoff, Chicago, Ill. + Annemarie L. Vietzke, Chicago, Ill. + George Wahr, Ann Arbor, Mich. + The Waldorf-Astoria, New York, N. Y. + Dr. Margaret B. Wilson, Washington, D.C. + John William Wohlers, Port Clinton, O. + Yale Co-Operative Corp., New Haven, Conn. + Jake Zeitlin, Los Angeles, Cal. + Charles Zuellig, Milwaukee, Wis. + + + + + TO + + ARNOLD SHIRCLIFFE + STEWARD, GASTRONOMER, AUTHOR AND BIBLIOPHILE + + AS THE ACTORS SHAKESPEARE AND MOLIERE CREATED + THE BEST DRAMA, SO THE BEST IN GASTRONOMIC + LITERATURE EMANATED FROM WITHIN THE RANKS + + THE AUTHOR + + + + +{Illustration: SYMPOSION. FROM AN ANCIENT VASE} + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + INTRODUCTION xi + + PREFACE xvii + + THE BOOK OF APICIUS + A critical review of its times, its authors, + and their sources, its authenticity and + practical usefulness in modern times 1 + + THE RECIPES OF APICIUS AND THE EXCERPTS FROM + APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS + Original translation from the most reliable + Latin texts, elucidated with notes and comments 41 + + APICIANA + A bibliography of Apician manuscript books and + printed editions 251 + + DICTIONARY OF CULINARY TERMS AND INDEX 275 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +A--FACSIMILES + +Made from originals and reproductions in the author's collection + + PAGE + 1 BREVIS PIMENTORUM, Excerpts of Vinidarius, 8th Century 234 + 2 INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM, Vatican MS, 9th Century 253 + 3 COLOPHON, Signerre Edition, Milan, 1498 260 + 4 TITLE PAGE, Tacuinus Edition, Venice, 1503 262 + 5 OPENING CHAPTER, same 232 + 6 TITLE PAGE, Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535 206 + 7 TITLE PAGE, Torinus Edition, Basel, 1541 220 + 8 TITLE PAGE, Torinus Edition, Lyons, 1541 263 + 9 TITLE PAGE, Humelbergius Edition, Zuerich, 1542 265 + 10 TITLE PAGE, Lister Edition, London, 1705 267 + 11 VERSO of Title Page, Lister Edition, London, 1705 268 + 12 TITLE PAGE, Lister Edition, Amsterdam, 1709 250 + 13 FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition, Amsterdam, 1709 156 + 14 BANQUET SCENE, from an ancient vase (opposite) + + +B--PEN AND INK DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR + +Sketched from scenes and objects at Pompeii, Naples, Berlin and +Chicago. Most of the ancient objects are in the National Museum of +Naples with many replicas in the Field Museum, Chicago. The treasure +found in 1868 near Hildesheim is in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum in +Berlin + + PAGE + + 15 APICII LIBRI X, Latin title of present edition, + hand-lettered (facing title) + + 16 DIAGRAM of Apicius manuscripts and printed editions 252 + + 17 GREAT CRATER, Hildesheim Treasure 140 + + 18 THERMOSPODIUM, plain, Naples 90 + + 19 THERMOSPODIUM, elaborate, Naples 72 + + 20 DESSERT or Fruit Dish, Shell, Naples 125 + + 21 DESSERT or Fruit Bowl, fluted 61 + + 22 TABLE, square, adjustable, Naples 138 + + 23 TABLE, round, Naples 122 + + 24 PAN, Frying, round, Naples 155 + + 25 PAN, Frying, oval, Naples 159 + + 26 PAN, Service Saucepan, with decorated handle, Hildesheim 73 + + 27 SERVICE DISH, oval, with two handles, Hildesheim Treasure 43 + + 28 PAN, Saucepan, with handle, Hercules motif, Naples 222 + + 29 PLATTER for Roast, Hildesheim Treasure 219 + + 30 PLATTER, The Great Pallas Athene Dish, Hildesheim 158 + + 31 TRIPOD for Crater, Hildesheim Treasure 40 + + 32 EGG SERVICE DISH, Hildesheim Treasure 93 + + 33 WINE DIPPER, Naples 3 + + 34 DIONYSOS CUP, Hildesheim Treasure 141 + + 35 CANTHARUS, Theatrical Decoration, Hildesheim Treasure 231 + + 36 CANTHARUS, Bacchic Decoration, Hildesheim Treasure 274 + + 37 COLANDER, Naples 58 + + 38 WINE PITCHER, Diana handle, Naples 208 + + 39 WINE PRESS, Reconstruction in Naples 92 + + 40 GONG for Slaves, Naples 42 + + 41 WINE STOCK ROOM, Pompeii 124 + + 42 CASA DI FORNO, Pompeii 2 + + 43 SLAVES operating hand mill, reconstruction in Naples 60 + + 44 STEW POT, No. 1, Caccabus, Naples 183 + + 45 STEW POT, No. 2, Caccabus, Naples 209 + + 46 STEW POT, No. 3, Caccabus, Naples 223 + + 47 STEW POT, No. 4, Caccabus, Naples 235 + + 48 CRATICULA, combination broiler and stove, Naples 182 + + 49 "LIBRO COMPLETO" (End of Book) + + + + +EXPLANATION OF TYPESETTING, ABBREVIATIONS, AND SYSTEM OF NUMBERING + + +TEXT AND HEADINGS + +The original ancient text as presented and rendered in the present +translation is printed in capital letters. + +Matter in parenthesis () is original. Matter in square brackets [] is +contributed by the translator. + +In most of the early originals the headings or titles of the formulae +are invariably part of the text. In the present translation they are +given both in English and in the Latin used by those originals which +the translator considered most characteristic titles. + +They have been set in prominent type as titles over each formula, +whereas in the originals the formulae of the various chapters run +together, in many instances without distinct separation. + + +NUMBERING OF RECIPES + +A system of numbering the recipes has therefore been adopted by the +translator, following the example of Schuch, which does not exist in +the other originals but the numbers in the present translation do not +correspond to those adopted by Schuch for reasons which hereafter +become evident. + + +NOTES AND COMMENTS BY THE TRANSLATOR + +The notes, comments and variants added to each recipe by the +translator are printed in upper and lower case and in the same type as +the other contributions by the translator, the Apiciana, the Critical +Review and the Vocabulary and Index. + +For the sake of convenience, to facilitate the study of each recipe +and for quick reference the notes follow in each and every case such +ancient recipe as they have reference to. + + +ABBREVIATIONS + + NY--The New York Codex (formerly Cheltenham), Apiciana, I + Vat.--The Vatican Codex, Apiciana, II. + Vin.--The Codex Salmasianus, Excerpta a Vinidario, Apiciana, III. + B. de V.--Edition by Bernardinus, Venice, n.d., Apiciana, No. 1. + Lan.--Edition by Lancilotus, Milan, 1498, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3. + Tac.--Edition by Tacuinus, Venice, 1503, Apiciana, No. 4. + Tor.--Edition by Torinus, Basel (and Lyons), 1541, Apiciana, + Nos. 5-6. + Hum.--Edition by Humelbergius, Zuerich, 1542, Apiciana, No. 7. + List.--Edition by Lister, London, 1705, Amst., 1709, Apiciana, + Nos. 8-9. + Bern.--Edition by Bernhold, Marktbreit, etc., Apiciana, + Nos. 10-11. + Bas.--Edition by Baseggio, Venice, 1852, Apiciana, No. 13. + Sch.--Edition by Schuch, Heidelberg, 1867/74, Apiciana, + Nos. 14-15. + Goll.--Edition by Gollmer, Leipzig, 1909, Apiciana, No. 16. + Dann.--Edition by Danneil, Leipzig, 1911, Apiciana, No. 17. + G.-V.--Edition by Giarratano-Vollmer, Leip. 1922, Apiciana, + No. 19. + V.--The present translation. + Giarr.--Giarratano; Voll.--F. Vollmer; Bran.--Edward Brandt. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + +BY + +FREDERICK STARR + +_Formerly Professor of Anthropology at the University of Chicago_ + + +No translation of Apicius into English has yet been published. The +book has been printed again and again in Latin and has been translated +into Italian and German. It is unnecessary to here give historic +details regarding the work as Mr. Vehling goes fully and admirably +into the subject. In 1705 the book was printed in Latin at London, +with notes by Dr. Martinus Lister. It caused some stir in the England +of that time. In a very curious book, The Art of Cookery, in Imitation +of Horace's Art of Poetry, with Some Letters to Dr. Lister and Others, +Dr. Wm. King says: + + "The other curiosity is the admirable piece of C{oe}lius + Apicius, '_De Opsoniis et condimentis sive arte + coquinaria, Libri decem_' being ten books of soups and + sauces, and the art of cookery, as it is excellently + printed for the doctor, who in this important affair, is + not sufficiently communicative.... + + "I some days ago met with an old acquaintance, of whom I + inquired if he has seen the book concerning soups and + sauces? He told me he had, but that he had but a very + slight view of it, the person who was master of it not + being willing to part with so valuable a rarity out of + his closet. I desired him to give me some account of it. + He says that it is a very handsome octavo, for, ever + since the days of Ogilvy, good paper and good print, and + fine cuts, make a book become ingenious and brighten up + an author strangely. That there is a copious index; and + at the end a catalogue of all the doctor's works, + concerning cockles, English beetles, snails, spiders, + that get up into the air and throw us down cobwebs; a + monster vomited up by a baker and such like; which if + carefully perused, would wonderfully improve us." + +More than two hundred years have passed and we now have an edition of +this curious work in English. And our edition has nothing to lose by +comparison with the old one. For this, too, is a handsome book, with +good paper and good print and fine cuts. And the man who produces it +can equally bear comparison with Dr. Lister and more earlier +commentators and editors whom he quotes--Humelbergius and Caspar +Barthius. + +The preparation of such a book is no simple task and requires a rare +combination of qualities. Mr. Vehling possesses this unusual +combination. He was born some forty-five years ago in the small town +of Duelken on the German-Dutch frontier--a town proverbial for the +dullness of its inhabitants. There was nothing of dullness about the +boy, however, for at the age of fourteen years, he had already four +years study of Latin and one of Greek to his credit. Such was his +record in Latin that his priest teachers attempted to influence him +toward the priesthood. His family, however, had other plans and +believing that he had enough schooling, decided that he should be a +cook. As he enjoyed good food, had a taste for travel and +independence, and was inclined to submit to family direction, he +rather willingly entered upon the career planned for him. He learned +the business thoroughly and for six years practiced his art in +Germany, Belgium, France, England and Scandinavia. Wherever he went, +he gave his hours of freedom to reading and study in libraries and +museums. + +During his first trip through Italy and on a visit to Pompeii he +conceived the idea of depicting some day the table of the Romans and +of making the present translation. He commenced to gather all the +necessary material for this work, which included intensive studies of +the ancient arts and languages. Meanwhile, he continued his hotel work +also, quite successfully. At the age of twenty-four he was assistant +manager of the fashionable Hotel Bristol, Vienna. + +However, the necessities of existence prevented his giving that time +and study to art, which is necessary if it was to become a real +career. In Vienna he found music, drama, languages, history, +literature and gastronomy, and met interesting people from all parts +of the globe. While the years at Vienna were the happiest of his life, +he had a distaste for the "superheated, aristocratic and military +atmosphere." It was at that city that he met the man who was +responsible for his coming to America. Were we writing Mr. Vehling's +biography, we would have ample material for a racy and startling +narrative. We desire only to indicate the remarkable preparation for +the work before us, which he has had. A Latin scholar of exceptional +promise, a professional cook of pronounced success, and an artist +competent to illustrate his own work! Could such a combination be +anticipated? It is the combination that has made this book possible. + +The book has claims even upon our busy and practical generation. Mr. +Vehling has himself stated them: + + "The important addition to our knowledge of the + ancients--for our popular notions about their table are + entirely erroneous and are in need of revision. + + "The practical value of many of the ancient formulae--for + 'In Olde Things There is Newnesse.' + + "The human interest--because of the amazing mentality + and the culinary ingenuity of the ancients revealed to + us from an altogether new angle. + + "The curious novelty and the linguistic difficulty, the + philological interest and the unique nature of the task, + requiring unique prerequisites--all these factors + prompted us to undertake this translation." + +One word as to Mr. Vehling's work in America. He was for five years +manager of catering at the Hotel Pfister in Milwaukee; for two and a +half years he was inspector and instructor of the Canadian Pacific +Railway; he was connected with some of the leading hotels in New York +City, and with the Eppley and the Van Orman Hotels chains, in +executive capacity. He not only has the practical side of food use and +preparation, he is an authority upon the science in his field. His +printed articles on food and cookery have been read with extraordinary +interest, and his lectures upon culinary matters have been well +received. It is to be hoped that both will eventually be published in +book form. + +There is no financial lure in getting out an English translation of +Apicius. It is a labor of love--but worth the doing. We have claimed +that Mr. Vehling has exceptional fitness for the task. This will be +evident to anyone who reads his book. An interesting feature of his +preparation is the fact that Mr. Vehling has subjected many of the +formulae to actual test. As Dr. Lister in the old edition of 1705 +increased the value and interest of the work by making additions from +various sources, so our editor of today adds much and interesting +matter in his supplements, notes and illustrations. + +It is hardly expected that many will follow Mr. Vehling in testing the +Apician formulae. Hazlitt in speaking of "The Young Cook's Monitor" +which was printed in 1683, says: + + "Some of the ingredients proposed for sauces seem to our + ears rather prodigious. In one place a contemporary + peruser has inserted an ironical calculation in MS. to + the effect that, whereas a cod's head could be bought + for fourpence, the condiments recommended for it were + not to be had for less than nine shillings." + +We shall close with a plagiarism oft repeated. It was a plagiarism as +long ago as 1736, when it was admitted such in the preface of Smith's +"The Compleat Housewife": + + "It being grown as fashionable for a book now to appear + in public without a preface, as for a lady to appear at + a ball without a hoop-petticoat, I shall conform to the + custom for fashion-sake and not through any necessity. + The subject being both common and universal, needs no + argument to introduce it, and being so necessary for the + gratification of the appetite, stands in need of no + encomiums to allure persons to the practice of it; since + there are but a few nowadays who love not good eating + and drinking...." + +Old Apicius and Joseph Dommers Vehling really need no introduction. + + FREDERICK STARR + Seattle, Washington, August 3, 1926. + + + + +PREFACE + + +The present first translation into English of the ancient cookery book +dating back to Imperial Roman times known as the Apicius book is +herewith presented to antiquarians, friends of the Antique as well as +to gastronomers, friends of good cheer. + +Three of the most ancient manuscript books that exist today bearing +the name of Apicius date back to the eighth and ninth century. Ever +since the invention of printing Apicius has been edited chiefly in the +Latin language. Details of the manuscript books and printed editions +will be found under the heading of Apiciana on the following pages. + +The present version has been based chiefly upon three principal Latin +editions, that of Albanus Torinus, 1541, who had for his authority a +codex he found on the island of Megalona, on the editions of Martinus +Lister, 1705-9, who based his work upon that of Humelbergius, 1542, +and the Giarratano-Vollmer edition, 1922. + +We have also scrutinized various other editions forming part of our +collection of Apiciana, and as shown by our "family tree of Apicius" +have drawn either directly or indirectly upon every known source for +our information. + +The reasons and raison d'etre for this undertaking become sufficiently +clear through Dr. Starr's introduction and through the following +critical review. + +It has been often said that the way to a man's heart is through his +stomach; so here is hoping that we may find a better way of knowing +old Rome and antique private life through the study of this cookery +book--Europe's oldest and Rome's only one in existence today. + + J. D. V. + Chicago, in the Spring of 1926. + + + + +THANKS + + +For many helpful hints, for access to works in their libraries and for +their kind and sympathetic interest in this work I am especially +grateful to Professor Dr. Edward Brandt, of Munich; to Professor Dr. +Margaret Barclay Wilson, of Washington, D.C., and New York City; to +Mr. Arnold Shircliffe, and Mr. Walter M. Hill, both of Chicago. + + J. D. V. + Chicago, in the Summer of 1936. + + + + +THE BOOK OF APICIUS + + + + +{Illustration: POMPEII: CASA DI FORNO--HOUSE OF THE OVEN + +Ancient bakery and flour mill of the year A.D. 79. Four grain grinders +to the right. The method of operating these mills is shown in the +sketch of the slaves operating a hand-mill. These mills were larger +and were driven by donkeys attached to beams stuck in the square +holes. The bake house is to the left, with running water to the right +of the entrance to the oven. The oven itself was constructed +ingeniously with a view of saving fuel and greatest efficiency.} + + + + +{Illustration: WINE DIPPER + +Found in Pompeii. Each end of the long handle takes the form of a +bird's head. The one close to the bowl holds in its bill a stout wire +which is loosely fastened around the neck of the bowl, the two ends +being interlocked. This allows the bowl to tilt sufficiently to hold +its full contents when retired from the narrow opening of the amphora. +The ancients also had dippers with extension handles to reach down to +the bottom of the deep amphora. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 73822; Field M. +24181.} + + + + +THE BOOK OF APICIUS + +A STUDY OF ITS TIMES, ITS AUTHORS AND THEIR SOURCES, ITS AUTHENTICITY +AND ITS PRACTICAL USEFULNESS IN MODERN TIMES + + +Anyone who would know something worth while about the private and +public lives of the ancients should be well acquainted with their +table. Then as now the oft quoted maxim stands that man is what he +eats. + +Much of the ancient life is still shrouded and will forever be hidden +by envious forces that have covered up bygone glory and grandeur. +Ground into mealy dust under the hoofs of barbarian armies! +Re-modeled, re-used a hundred times! Discarded as of no value by +clumsy hands! The "Crime of Ignorance" is a factor in league with the +forces of destruction. Much is destroyed by blind strokes of +fate--fate, eternally pounding this earth in its everlasting enigmatic +efforts to shape life into something, the purpose of which we do not +understand, the meaning of which we may not even venture to dream of +or hope to know. + +Whatever there has been preserved by "Providence," by freaks of chance, +by virtue of its own inherent strength--whatever has been buried by +misers, fondled, treasured by loving hands of collectors and +connoisseurs during all these centuries--every speck of ancient dust, +every scrap of parchment or papyrus, a corroded piece of metal, a +broken piece of stone or glass, so eagerly sought by the archaeologists +and historians of the last few generations--all these fragmentary +messages from out of the past emphasize the greatness of their time. +They show its modernity, its nearness to our own days. They are now +hazy reminiscences, as it were, by a middle-aged man of the hopes and +the joys of his own youth. These furtive fragments--whatever they +are--now tell us a story so full and so rich, they wield so marvelous a +power, no man laying claim to possessing any intelligence may pass them +without intensely feeling the eternal pathetic appeal to our hearts of +these bygone ages that hold us down in an envious manner, begrudging us +the warm life-blood of the present, weaving invisible ties around us to +make our hearts heavy. + +However, we are not here to be impeded by any sentimental +considerations. Thinking of the past, we are not so much concerned +with the picture that dead men have placed in our path like ever so +many bill boards and posters! We do not care for their "ideals" +expounded in contemporary histories and eulogies. We are hardly moved +by the "facts" such as they would have loved to see them happen, nor do +we cherish the figments of their human, very human, subconsciousness. + +To gain a correct picture of the Roman table we will therefore set +aside for a while the fragments culled from ancient literature and +history that have been misused so indiscriminately and so profusely +during the last two thousand years--for various reasons. They have +become fixed ideas, making reconstruction difficult for anyone who +would gain a picture along rational lines. Barring two exceptions, +there is no trustworthy detailed description of the ancient table by +an objective contemporary observer. To be sure, there are some +sporadic efforts, mere reiterations. The majority of the ancient word +pictures are distorted views on our subject by partisan writers, +contemporary moralists on the one side, satirists on the other. +Neither of them, we venture to say, knew the subject professionally. +They were not specialists in the sense of modern writers like +Reyniere, Rumohr, Vaerst; nor did they approach in technical knowledge +medieval writers like Martino, Platina, Torinus. + +True there were exceptions. Athenaeus, a most prolific and voluble +magiric commentator, quoting many writers and specialists whose names +but for him would have never reached posterity. Athenaeus tells about +these gastronomers, the greatest of them, Archestratos, men who might +have contributed so much to our knowledge of the ancient world, but to +us these names remain silent, for the works of these men have perished +with the rest of the great library at the disposal of this genial host +of Alexandria. + +Too, there are Anacharsis and Petronius. They and Athenaeus cannot be +overlooked. These three form the bulk of our evidence. + +Take on the other hand Plutarch, Seneca, Tertullian, even Pliny, +writers who have chiefly contributed to our defective knowledge of the +ancient table. They were no gourmets. They were biased, unreliable at +best, as regards culinary matters. They deserve our attention merely +because they are above the ever present mob of antique reformers and +politicians of whom there was legion in Rome alone, under the pagan +regime. Their state of mind and their intolerance towards civilized +dining did not improve with the advent of Christianity. + +The moralists' testimony is substantiated and supplemented rather than +refuted by their very antipodes, the satirists, a group headed by +Martial, Juvenal and the incomparable Petronius, who really is in a +class by himself. + +There is one more man worthy of mention in our particular study, +Horace, a true poet, the most objective of all writers, +man-about-town, pet of society, mundane genius, gifted to look calmly +into the innermost heart of his time. His eyes fastened a correct +picture on the sensitive diaphragm of a good memory, leaving an +impression neither distorted nor "out of focus." His eye did not "pick +up," for sundry reasons, the defects of the objects of observation, +nor did it work with the uncanny joy of subconscious exaggeration met +with so frequently in modern writing, nor did he indulge in that +predilection for ugly detail sported by modern art. + +So much for Horatius, poet. Still, he was not a specialist in our +line. We cannot enroll him among the gifted gourmets no matter how +many meals he enjoyed at the houses of his society friends. We are +rather inclined to place him among the host of writers, ancient and +modern, who have treated the subject of food with a sort of sovereign +contempt, or at least with indifference, because its study presented +unsurmountable difficulties, and the subject, _per se_, was a menial +one. With this attitude of our potential chief witnesses defined, we +have no occasion to further appeal to them here, and we might proceed +to real business, to the sifting of the trustworthy material at hand. +It is really a relief to know that we have no array of formidable +authorities to be considered in our study. We have virgin field before +us--i.e., the ruins of ancient greatness grown over by a jungle of two +thousand years of hostile posterity. + + +POMPEII + +Pompeii was destroyed in A.D. 79. From its ruins we have obtained in +the last half century more information about the intimate domestic and +public life of the ancients than from any other single source. What is +more important, this vast wealth of information is first hand, +unspoiled, undiluted, unabridged, unbiased, uncensored;--in short, +untouched by meddlesome human hands. + +Though only a provincial town, Pompeii was a prosperous mercantile +place, a representative market-place, a favorite resort for fashionable +people. The town had hardly recuperated from a preliminary attack by +that treacherous mountain, Vesuvius, when a second onslaught succeeded +in complete destruction. Suddenly, without warning, this lumbering +_force majeur_ visited the ill-fated towns in its vicinity with +merciless annihilation. The population, just then enjoying the games in +the amphitheatre outside of the "downtown" district, had had hardly +time to save their belongings. They escaped with their bare lives. Only +the aged, the infirm, the prisoners and some faithful dogs were left +behind. Today their bodies in plaster casts may be seen, mute witnesses +to a frightful disaster. The town was covered with an airtight blanket +of ashes, lava and fine pumice stone. There was no prolonged death +struggle, no perceivable decay extended over centuries as was the cruel +lot of Pompeii's mistress, Rome. There were no agonies to speak of. The +great event was consummated within a few hours. The peace of death +settled down to reign supreme after the dust had been driven away by +the gentle breezes coming in from the bay of Naples. Some courageous +citizens returned, searching in the hot ashes for the crashed-in roofs +of their villas, to recover this or that. Perhaps they hoped to salvage +the strong box in the atrium, or a heirloom from the triclinium. But +soon they gave up. Despairing, or hoping for better days to come, they +vanished in the mist of time. Pompeii, the fair, the hospitable, the +gay city, just like any individual out of luck, was and stayed +forgotten. The Pompeians, their joys, sorrows, their work and play, +their virtues and vices--everything was arrested with one single +stroke, stopped, even as a camera clicks, taking a snapshot. + +The city's destruction, it appears, was a formidable opening blow +dealt the Roman empire in the prime of its life, in a war of +extermination waged by hostile invisible forces. Pompeii makes one +believe in "Providence." A great disaster actually moulding, casting a +perfect image of the time for future generations! To be exact, it took +these generations eighteen centuries to discover and to appreciate the +heritage that was theirs, buried at the foot of Vesuvius. During these +long dark and dusky centuries charming goat herds had rested unctuous +shocks of hair upon mysterious columns that, like young giant +asparagus, stuck their magnificent heads out of the ground. Blinking +drowsily at yonder villainous mountain, the summit of which is +eternally crowned with a halo of thin white smoke, such as we are +accustomed to see arising from the stacks of chemical factories, the +confident shepherd would lazily implore his patron saint to enjoin +that unreliable devilish force within lest the _dolce far niente_ of +the afternoon be disturbed, for siestas are among the most important +functions in the life of that region. Occasionally the more +enterprising would arm themselves with pick-axe and shovel, made bold +by whispered stories of fabulous wealth, and, defying the evil spirits +protecting it, they would set out on an expedition of loot and +desecration of the tomb of ancient splendor. + +Only about a century and a half ago the archaeological conscience +awoke. Only seventy-five years ago energetic moves made possible a +fruitful pilgrimage to this shrine of humanity, while today not more +than two-thirds but perhaps the most important parts of the city have +been opened to our astonished eyes by men who know. + +And now: we may see that loaf of bread baked nineteen centuries ago, +as found in the bake shop. We may inspect the ingenious bake oven +where it was baked. We may see the mills that ground the flour for the +bread, and, indeed find unground wheat kernels. We see the oil still +preserved in the jugs, the residue of wine still in the amphorae, the +figs preserved in jars, the lentils, the barley, the spices in the +cupboard; everything awaits our pleasure: the taverns with their +"bars"; the ancient guests' opinion of Mine Host scribbled on the +wall, the kitchens with their implements, the boudoirs of milady's +with the cosmetics and perfumes in the compacts. There are the +advertisements on the walls, the foods praised with all the _eclat_ of +modern advertising, the election notices, the love missives, the bank +deposits, the theatre tickets, law records, bills of sale. + +Phantom-like yet real there are the good citizens of a good town, +parading, hustling, loafing--sturdy patricians, wretched plebeians, +stern centurios, boastful soldiers, scheming politicians, crafty +law-clerks, timid scribes, chattering barbers, bullying gladiators, +haughty actors, dusty travelers, making for Albinus', the famous host +at the _Via della Abbondanza_ or, would he give preference to Sarinus, +the son of Publius, who advertised so cleverly? Or, perhaps, could he +afford to stop at the "Fortunata" Hotel, centrally located? + +There are, too, the boorish hayseeds from out of town trying to sell +their produce, unaccustomed to the fashionable Latin-Greek speech of +the city folks, gaping with their mouths wide open, greedily at the +steaks of sacrificial meat displayed behind enlarging glasses in the +cheap cook shop windows. There they giggle and chuckle, those wily +landlords with their blase habitues and their underlings, the greasy +cooks, the roguish "good mixers" at the bar and the winsome if +resolute _copae_--waitresses--all ready to go, to do business. So +slippery are the cooks that Plautus calls one _Congrio_--sea eel--so +black that another deserves the title _Anthrax_--coal. + +There they are, one and all, the characters necessary to make up what +we call civilization, chattering agitatedly in a lingo of +Latin-Greek-Oscan--as if life were a continuous market day. + +It takes no particular scholarship, only a little imagination and +human sympathy to see and to hear the ghosts of Pompeii. + +There is no pose about this town, no _mise-en-scene_, no +stage-setting. No heroic gesture. No theatricals, in short, no lies. +There is to be found no shred of that vainglorious cloak which humans +will deftly drape about their shoulders whenever they happen to be +aware of the camera. There is no "registering" of any kind here. + +Pompeii's natural and pleasant disposition, therefore, is ever so much +more in evidence. Not a single one of this charming city's movements +was intended for posterity. Her life stands before our eyes in clear +reality, in naked, unadorned truth. Indeed, there were many things +that the good folks would have loved to point to with pride. You have +to search for these now. There are, alas and alack, a few things they +would have hidden, had they only known what was in store for them. But +all these things, good, indifferent and bad, remained in their places; +and here they are, unsuspecting, real, natural, charming like Diana +and her wood nymphs. + +Were it not quite superfluous, we would urgently recommend the study +of Pompeii to the students of life in general and to those of +Antiquity in particular. Those who would know something about the +ancient table cannot do without Pompeii. + + +THREE ANCIENT WRITERS: ANACHARSIS, APICIUS, PETRONIUS + +To those who lay stress upon documentary evidence or literary +testimony, to those trusting implicitly in the honesty and reliability +of writers of fiction, we would recommend Petronius Arbiter. + +His _cena Trimalchionis_, Trimalchio's dinner, is the sole surviving +piece from the pen of a Roman contemporary, giving detailed +information on our subject. It is, too, the work of a great writer +moving in the best circles, and, therefore, so much more desirable as +an expert. Petronius deserves to be quoted in full but his work is too +well-known, and our space too short. However, right here we wish to +warn the student to bear in mind in perusing Petronius that this +writer, in his _cena_, is not depicting a meal but that he is +satirizing a man--that makes all the difference in the world as far +as we are concerned. Petronius' _cena_ is plainly an exaggeration, but +even from its distorted contours the student may recognize the true +lines of an ancient meal. + +There is, not so well-known a beautiful picture of an Athenian dinner +party which must not be overlooked, for it contains a wealth of +information. Although Greek, we learn from it much of the Roman +conditions. Anacharsis' description of a banquet at Athens, dating +back to the fourth century B.C. about the time when the Periclean +regime flourished, is worth your perusal. A particularly good version +of this tale is rendered by Baron Vaerst in his book "Gastrosophie," +Leipzig, 1854, who has based his version on the original translation +from the Greek, entitled, _Voyage du jeune Anacharsis en Grece vers le +milieu du quatrieme siecle avant l'ere vulgaire par J. J. Barthelemy_, +Paris, 1824. Vaerst has amplified the excerpts from the young +traveler's observations by quotations from other ancient Greek writers +upon the subject, thus giving us a most beautiful and authentic ideal +description of Greek table manners and habits when Athens had reached +the height in culture, refinement and political greatness. + +Anacharsis was not a Hellene but a Scythian visitor. By his own +admission he is no authority on Grecian cookery, but as a reporter he +excels. + +This truly Hellenic discussion of the art of eating and living at the +table of the cultured Athenians is the most profound discourse we know +of, ancient or modern, on eating. The wisdom revealed in this tale is +lasting, and, like Greek marble, consummate in external beauty and +inner worth. + +We thus possess the testimony of two contemporary writers which +together with the book of Apicius and with what we learn from +Athenaeus should give a fair picture of ancient eating and cookery. + +Apicius is our most substantial witness. + +Unfortunately, this source has not been spared by meddlesome men, and +it has not reached us in its pristine condition. As a matter of fact, +Apicius has been badly mauled throughout the centuries. This book has +always attracted attention, never has it met with indifference. In the +middle ages it became the object of intensive study, interpretation, +controversy--in short it has attracted interest that has lasted into +modern times. + +When, with the advent of the dark ages, it ceased to be a practical +cookery book, it became a treasure cherished by the few who preserved +the classical literature, and after the invention of printing it +became the object of curiosity, even mystery. Some interpreters waxed +enthusiastic over it, others who failed to understand it, condemned it +as hopeless and worthless. + +The pages of our Apiciana plainly show the lasting interest in our +ancient book, particularly ever since its presence became a matter of +common knowledge during the first century of printing. + +The Apicius book is the most ancient of European cookery books. +However, Platina's work, _de honesta uolvptate_, is the first cookery +book to appear in print. Platina, in 1474, was more up-to-date. His +book had a larger circulation. But its vogue stopped after a century +while Apicius marched on through centuries to come, tantalizing the +scholars, amusing the curious gourmets if not educated cooks to the +present day. + + +APICIUS, THE MAN + +Who was Apicius? This is the surname of several renowned gastronomers +of old Rome. There are many references and anecdotes in ancient +literature to men bearing this name. Two Apicii have definitely been +accounted for. The older one, Marcus A. lived at the time of Sulla +about 100 B.C. The man we are most interested in, M. Gabius Apicius, +lived under Augustus and Tiberius, 80 B.C. to A.D. 40. However, both +these men had a reputation for their good table. + + +ATHENAEUS ON APICIUS + +It is worth noting that the well-read Athenaeus, conversant with most +authors of Antiquity makes no mention of the Apicius book. This +collection of recipes, then, was not in general circulation during +Athenaei time (beginning of the third century of our era), that, +maybe, it was kept a secret by some Roman cooks. On the other hand it +is possible that the Apicius book did not exist during the time of +Athenaeus in the form handed down to us and that the monographs on +various departments of cookery (most of them of Greek origin, works of +which indeed Athenaeus speaks) were collected after the first quarter +of the third century and were adorned with the name of Apicius merely +because his fame as a gourmet had endured. + +What Athenaeus knows about Apicius (one of three known famous eaters +bearing that name) is the following: + + "About the time of Tiberius [42 B.C.-37 A.D.] there + lived a man, named Apicius; very rich and luxurious, for + whom several kinds of cheesecake called Apician, are + named [not found in our present A.]. He spent myriads of + drachmas on his belly, living chiefly at Minturnae, a + city of Campania, eating very expensive crawfish, which + are found in that place superior in size to those of + Smyrna, or even to the crabs of Alexandria. Hearing, + too, that they were very large in Africa, he sailed + thither, without waiting a single day, and suffered + exceedingly on his voyage. But when he came near the + coast, before he disembarked (for his arrival made a + great stir among the Africans) the fishermen came + alongside in their boats and brought him some very fine + crawfish; and he, when he saw them, asked if they had + any finer; and when they said that there were none finer + than those which they had brought, he, recollecting + those at Minturnae ordered the master of the ship to sail + back the same way into Italy, without going near the + land.... + + "When the emperor Trajan [A.D. 52 or 53-117] was in + Parthia [a country in Asia, part of Persia?] at a + distance of many days from the sea, Apicius sent him + fresh oysters, which he had kept so by a clever + contrivance of his own; real oysters...." + +(The instructions given in our Apicius book, Recipe 14, for the +keeping of oysters would hardly guarantee their safe arrival on such +a journey as described above.) + +Athenaeus tells us further that many of the Apician recipes were +famous and that many dishes were named after him. This confirms the +theory that Apicius was not the author of the present book but that +the book was dedicated to him by an unknown author or compiler. +Athenaeus also mentions one Apion who wrote a book on luxurious +living. Whether this man is identical with the author or patron of our +book is problematic. Torinus, in his _epistola dedicatoria_ to the +1541 edition expresses the same doubt. + +Marcus Gabius (or Gavius) Apicius lived during Rome's most interesting +epoch, when the empire had reached its highest point, when the seeds +of decline, not yet apparent, were in the ground, when in the quiet +villages of that far-off province, Palestine, the Saviour's doctrines +fascinated humble audiences--teachings that later reaching the very +heart of the world's mistress were destined to tarnish the splendor of +that autocrat. + +According to the mention by various writers, this man, M. Gabius +Apicius, was one of the many ancient gastronomers who took the subject +of food seriously. Assuming a scientific attitude towards eating and +food they were criticised for paying too much attention to their +table. This was considered a superfluous and indeed wicked luxury when +frugality was a virtue. These men who knew by intuition the importance +of knowing something about nutrition are only now being vindicated by +the findings of modern science. + +M. Gabius Apicius, this most famous of the celebrated and much +maligned bon-vivants, quite naturally took great interest in the +preparation of food. He is said to have originated many dishes +himself; he collected much material on the subject and he endowed a +school for the teaching of cookery and for the promotion of culinary +ideas. This very statement by his critics places him high in our +esteem, as it shows him up as a scientist and educator. He spent his +vast fortune for food, as the stories go, and when he had only a +quarter million dollars left (a paltry sum today but a considerable +one in those days when gold was scarce and monetary standards in a +worse muddle than today) Apicius took his own life, fearing that he +might have to starve to death some day. + +This story seems absurd on the face of it, yet Seneca and Martial tell +it (both with different tendencies) and Suidas, Albino and other +writers repeat it without critical analysis. These writers who are +unreliable in culinary matters anyway, claim that Apicius spent one +hundred million _sestertii_ on his appetite--_in gulam_. Finally when +the hour of accounting came he found that there were only ten million +_sestertii_ left, so he concluded that life was not worth living if +his gastronomic ideas could no longer be carried out in the accustomed +and approved style, and he took poison at a banquet especially +arranged for the occasion. + +In the light of modern experience with psychology, with economics, +depressions, journalism, we focus on this and similar stories, and we +find them thoroughly unreliable. We cannot believe this one. It is too +melodramatic, too moralistic perhaps to suit our modern taste. The +underlying causes for the conduct, life and end of Apicius have not +been told. Of course, we have to accept the facts as reported. If only +a Petronius had written that story! What a story it might have been! +But there is only one Petronius in antiquity. His Trimalchio, former +slave, successful profiteer and food speculator, braggard and +drunkard, wife-beater--an upstart who arranged extravagant banquets +merely to show off, who, by the way, also arranged for his funeral at +his banquet (Apician fashion and, indeed, Petronian fashion! for +Petronius died in the same manner) and who peacefully "passed out" +soundly intoxicated--this man is a figure true to life as it was then, +as it is now and as it probably will continue to be. Last but not +least: Mrs. Trimalchio, the resolute lady who helped him "make his +pile"--these are human characters much more real, much more +trustworthy than anything and everything else ever depicted by any +ancient pen; they bring out so graphically the modernity of antiquity. +Without Petronius and Pompeii the antique world would forever remain +at an inexplicably remote distance to our modern conception of life. +With him, and with the dead city, the riddles of antiquity are cleared +up. + + +THE BOOK + +Many dishes listed in Apicius are named for various celebrities who +flourished at a later date than the second Apicius. It is noteworthy, +however, that neither such close contemporaries as Heliogabalus and +Nero, notorious gluttons, nor Petronius, the arbiter of fashion of the +period, are among the persons thus honored. Vitellius, a later +glutton, is well represented in the book. It is fair to assume, then, +that the author or collector of our present Apicius lived long after +the second Apicius, or, at least, that the book was augmented by +persons posterior to M. Gabius A. The book in its present state was +probably completed about the latter part of the third century. It is +almost certain that many recipes were added to a much earlier edition. + + +PROBABLY OF GREEK PARENTAGE + +We may as well add another to the many speculations by saying that it +is quite probable for our book to originate in a number of Greek +manuals or monographs on specialized subjects or departments of +cookery. Such special treatises are mentioned by Athenaeus (cf. +Humelbergius, quoted by Lister). The titles of each chapter (or book) +are in Greek, the text is full of Greek terminology. While +classification under the respective titles is not strictly adhered to +at all times, it is significant that certain subjects, that of fish +cookery, for instance, appear twice in the book, the same subject +showing treatment by widely different hands. Still more significant is +the absence in our book of such important departments as +desserts--_dulcia_--confections in which the ancients were experts. +Bakery, too, even the plainest kind, is conspicuously absent in the +Apician books. The latter two trades being particularly well +developed, were departmentalized to an astonishing degree in ancient +Greece and Rome. These indispensable books are simply wanting in our +book if it be but a collection of Greek monographs. Roman culture and +refinement of living, commencing about 200-250 years before our era +was under the complete rule of Hellas. Greek influence included +everybody from philosophers, artists, architects, actors, law-makers +to cooks. + +"The conquered thus conquered the conquerors." + +Humelbergius makes a significant reference to the origin of Apicius. +We confess, we have not checked up this worthy editor nor his +successor, Dr. Lister, whom he quotes in the preface as to the origin +of our book. With reference to Plato's work, Humelbergius says: + + "_Que res tota spectat medicinae partem, quae diaitetike + appelatur, et victu medetur: at in hac tes diaitetikes + parte totus est Apicius noster._" + +In our opinion, unfounded of course by positive proof, the Apicius +book is somewhat of a gastronomic bible, consisting of ten different +books by several authors, originating in Greece and taken over by the +Romans along with the rest of Greek culture as spoils of war. These +books, or chapters, or fragments thereof, must have been in vogue long +before they were collected and assembled in the present form. +Editions, or copies of the same must have been numerous, either singly +or collectively, at the beginning of our era. As a matter of fact, the +Excerpts by Vinidarius, found in the _codex Salmasianus_ prove this +theory and give rise to the assumption that the Apicius book was a +standard work for cookery that existed at one time or other in a far +more copious volume and that the present Apicius is but a fragment of +a formerly vaster and more complete collection of culinary and medical +formulae. + +Thus a fragmentary Apicius has been handed down to us in manuscript +form through the centuries, through the revolutionary era of Christian +ascendancy, through the dark ages down to the Renaissance. Unknown +agencies, mostly medical and monastic, stout custodians of antique +learning, reverent lovers of good cheer have preserved it for us until +printing made possible the book's wide distribution among the +scholars. Just prior to Gutenberg's epoch-making printing press there +was a spurt of interest in our book in Italy, as attested to by a +dozen of manuscripts, copied in the fourteenth and the fifteenth +centuries. + +Apicius may justly be called the world's oldest cookery book; the very +old Sanscrit book, Vasavarayeyam, unknown to us except by name, is +said to be a tract on vegetarian cookery. + +The men who have preserved this work for future generations, who have +made it accessible to the public (as was Lister's intention) have +performed a service to civilization that is not to be underestimated. +They have done better than the average archaeologist with one or +another find to his credit. The Apicius book is a living thing, +capable of creating happiness. Some gastronomic writers have pointed +out that the man who discovers a new dish does more for humanity than +the man who discovers a new star, because the discovery of a new dish +affects the happiness of mankind more pleasantly than the addition of +a new planet to an already overcrowded chart of the universe. Viewing +Apicius from such a materialistic point of view he should become very +popular in this age of ours so keen for utilities of every sort. + + +C{OE}LIUS-CAELIUS + +The name of another personality is introduced in connection with the +book, namely that of C{oe}lius or Caelius. This name is mentioned in +the title of the first undated edition (ca. 1483-6) as Celius. +Torinus, 1541, places "Caelius" before "Apicius"; Humelbergius, 1542, +places "C{oe}lius" after A. Lister approves of this, berating Torinus +for his willful methods of editing the book: "_En hominem in +conjecturis sane audacissimus!_" If any of them were correct about +"C{oe}lius," Torinus would be the man. (Cf. Schanz, Roem. Lit. Gesch., +Mueller's Handbuch d. klass. Altertums-Wissenschaft, V III, 112, p. +506.) However, there is no _raison d'etre_ for C{oe}lius. + +His presence and the unreality thereof has been cleared up by Vollmer, +as will be duly shown. The squabble of the medieval savants has also +given rise to the story that Apicius is but a joke perpetrated upon +the world by a medieval savant. This will be refuted also later on. +Our book is a genuine Roman. Medieval savants have made plenty of +Roman "fakes," for sundry reasons. A most ingenious hoax was the +"completion" of the Petronius fragment by a scholar able to hoodwink +his learned contemporaries by an exhibition of Petronian literary +style and a fertile imagination. Ever so many other "fakers" were +shown up in due time. When this version of Petronius was pronounced +genuine by the scientific world, the perpetrator of the "joke" +confessed, enjoying a good laugh at the expense of his colleagues. But +we shall presently understand how such a "joke" with Apicius would be +impossible. Meanwhile, we crave the indulgence of the modern reader +with our mention of C{oe}lius. We desire to do full justice to the +ancient work and complete the presentation of its history. The +controversies that have raged over it make this course necessary. + +Our predecessors have not had the benefit of modern communication, +and, therefore, could not know all that is to be known on the subject. +We sympathize with Lister yet do not condemn Torinus. If Torinus ever +dared making important changes in the old text, they are easily +ascertained by collation with other texts. This we have endeavored to +do. Explaining the discrepancies, it will be noted that we have not +given a full vote of confidence to Lister. + +Why should the mysterious C{oe}lius or Caelius, if such an author or +compiler of a tome on cookery existed affix the name of "Apicius" to +it? The reason would be commercial gain, prestige accruing from the +name of that cookery celebrity. Such business sense would not be +extraordinary. Modern cooks pursue the same method. Witness the +innumerable a la soandsos. Babies, apartment houses, streets, cities, +parks, dogs, race horses, soap, cheese, herring, cigars, hair +restorers are thus named today. "Apicius" on the front page of any +ancient cookery book would be perfectly consistent with the ancient +spirit of advertising. It has been stated, too, that C{oe}lius had +more than one collaborator. Neither can this be proven. + +The copyists have made many changes throughout the original text. +Misspelling of terms, ignorance of cookery have done much to obscure +the meaning. The scribes of the middle ages had much difficulty in +this respect since medieval Latin is different from Apician language. + +The very language of the original is proof for its authenticity. The +desire of Torinus to interpret to his medieval readers the ancient +text is pardonable. How much or how little he succeeded is attested to +by some of his contemporary readers, former owners of our copies. +Scholars plainly confess inability to decipher Apicius by groans +inscribed on the fly leaves and title pages in Latin, French and other +languages. One French scholar of the 16th century, apparently "kidded" +for studying an undecipherable cook book, stoically inscribes the +title page of our Lyon, 1541, copy with: "This amuses me. Why make fun +of me?" This sort of message, reaching us out of the dim past of +bygone centuries is among the most touching reading we have done, and +has urged us on with the good though laborious and unprofitable work. + +Notwithstanding its drawbacks, our book is a classic both as to form +and contents. It has served as a prototype of most ancient and modern +books. Its influence is felt to the present day. + +The book has often been cited by old writers as proof of the +debaucheries and the gluttony of ancient Rome. Nothing could be +further from the truth because these writers failed to understand the +book. + +The Apicius book reflects the true condition (partly so, because it is +incomplete) of the kitchen prevailing at the beginning of our era when +the mistress of the Old World was in her full regalia, when her ample +body had not yet succumbed to that fatty degeneration of the interior +so fatal to ever so many individuals, families, cities and nations. + +We repeat, our Apicius covers Rome's healthy epoch; hence the +importance of the book. The voluptuous concoctions, the fabulous +dishes, the proverbial excesses that have made decent people shudder +with disgust throughout the ages are not known to Apicius. If they +ever existed at all in their traditional ugliness they made their +appearance after Apicius' time. We recall, Petronius, describing some +of these "stunts" is a contemporary of Nero (whom he satirizes as +"Trimalchio"). So is Seneca, noble soul, another victim of Caesarean +insanity; he, too, describes Imperial excesses. These extremely few +foolish creations are really at the bottom of the cause for this +misunderstanding of true Roman life. Such stupidity has allowed the +joy of life which, as Epikuros and Platina believe, may be indulged in +with perfect virtue and honesty to become a byword among all good +people who are not gastronomers either by birth, by choice or by +training. + +With due justice to the Roman people may we be permitted to say that +proverbial excesses were exceedingly rare occurrences. The follies and +the vices of a Nero, a boy Heliogabalus, a Pollio, a Vitellius and a +few other notorious wasters are spread sporadically over a period of +at least eight hundred years. Between these cases of gastronomic +insanity lie wellnigh a thousand years of everyday grind and drudgery +of the Roman people. The bulk was miserably fed as compared with +modern standards of living. Only a few patricians could afford "high +living." Since a prosperous bourgeoisie (usually the economic and +gastronomic background of any nation) was practically unknown in Rome, +where the so-called middle classes were in reality poor, shiftless and +floating freedmen, it is evident that the bulk of the population +because of the empire's unsettled economic conditions, its extensive +system of slavery (precluding all successful practice of trades by +freemen), the continuous military operations, the haphazard financial +system, was forced to live niggardly. The contrast between the middle +classes and the upper classes seemed very cruel. This condition may +account for the many outcries against the "extravagances" of the few +privileged ones who could afford decent food and for the exaggerated +stories about their table found in the literature of the time. + +The seemingly outlandish methods of Apician food preparation become +plain and clear in the light of social evolution. "Evolution" is +perhaps not the right word to convey our idea of social perpetual +motion. + +Apicius used practically all the cooking utensils in use today. He +only lacked gas, electricity and artificial refrigeration, modern +achievements while useful in the kitchen and indispensable in +wholesale production and for labor saving, that have no bearing on +purely gastronomical problems. There is only one difference between +the cooking utensils of yore and the modern products: the old ones are +hand-made, more individualistic, more beautiful, more artistic than +our machine-made varieties. + +Despite his strangeness and remoteness, Apicius is not dead by any +means. We have but to inspect (as Gollmer has pointed out) the table +of the Southern Europeans to find Apician traditions alive. In the +Northern countries, too, are found his traces. To think that Apicius +should have survived in the North of Europe, far removed from his +native soil, is a rather audacious suggestion. But the keen observer +can find him in Great Britain, Scandinavia and the Baltic provinces +today. The conquerors and seafarers coming from the South have carried +the pollen of gastronomic flowers far into the North where they +adjusted themselves to soil and climate. Many a cook of the British +isles, of Southern Sweden, Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania +still observes Apicius rules though he may not be aware of the fact. + +We must realize that Apicius is only a book, a frail hand-made record +and that, while the record itself might have been forgotten, its +principles have become international property, long ago. Thus they +live on. Like a living thing--a language, a custom, they themselves +may have undergone changes, "improvements," alterations, augmentation, +corruption. But the character has been preserved; a couple of thousand +years are, after all, but a paltry matter. Our own age is but the +grandchild of antiquity. The words we utter, in their roots, are those +of our grandfathers. And so do many dishes we eat today resemble those +once enjoyed by Apicius and his friends. + +Is it necessary to point the tenacity of the spirit of the Antique, +reaching deep into the modern age? The latest Apicius edition in the +original Latin is dated 1922! + +The gastronomic life of Europe was under the complete rule of old Rome +until the middle of the seventeenth century. Then came a sudden change +for modernity, comparable to the rather abrupt change of languages +from the fashionable Latin to the national idioms and vernacular, in +England and Germany under the influence of literary giants like +Luther, Chaucer, Shakespeare. + +All medieval food literature of the continent and indeed the early +cookery books of England prior to La Varenne (Le Cuisinier Francois, +1654) are deeply influenced by Apicius. The great change in eating, +resulting in a new gastronomic order, attained its highest peak of +perfection just prior to the French revolution. Temporarily suspended +by this social upheaval, it continued to flourish until about the +latter part of last century. The last decades of this new order is +often referred to as the classical period of gastronomy, with France +claiming the laurels for its development. "Classic" for reasons we do +not know (Urbain Dubois, outstanding master of this period wrote "La +Cuisine classique") except that its precepts appeal as classical to +our notion of eating. This may not correspond to the views of +posterity, we had therefore better wait a century or two before +proclaiming our system of cookery "classical." + +Disposing of that old "classic," Apicius, as slowly as a conservative +cooking world could afford to do, the present nations set out to +cultivate a taste for things that a Roman would have pronounced unfit +for a slave. Still, the world moves on. Conquest, discovery of foreign +parts, the New World, contributed fine things to the modern +table,--old forgotten foods were rediscovered--endless lists of +materials and combinations, new daring, preposterous dishes that made +the younger generation rejoice while old folks looked on gasping with +dismay, despair, contempt. + +Be it sufficient to remark that the older practitioners of our own +days, educated in "classic" cuisine again are quite apprehensive of +their traditions endangered by the spirit of revolt of the young +against the old. Again and again we hear of a decline that has set in, +and even by the best authorities alarmist notes are spread to the +effect that "we have begun our journey back, step by step to our +primitive tree and our primitive nuts" (Pennell. Does Spengler +consider food in his "Decline of the West?"). + +It matters not whether we share this pessimism, nor what we may have +to say _pro_ or _con_ this question of "progress" or "retrogression" +in eating (or in anything else for that matter). In fact we are not +concerned with the question here more than to give it passing +attention. + +If "classic" cookery is dying nowadays, if it cannot reassert itself +that would be a loss to mankind. But this classic cookery system has +so far only been the sole and exclusive privilege of a dying +aristocracy. It seems quite in order that it should go under in the +great _Goetterdaemmerung_ that commenced with the German peasants wars +of the sixteenth century, flaring up (as the second act) in the French +revolution late in the eighteenth century, the Act III of which drama +has been experienced in our own days. + +The common people as yet have never had an active part in the +enjoyment of the classic art of eating. So far, they always provided +the wherewithal, and looked on, holding the bag. Modern hotels, +because of their commercial character, have done little to perpetuate +it. They merely have commercialized the art. Beyond exercising +ordinary salesmanship, our _maitres d'hotel_ have not educated our +_nouveaux riches_ in the mysteries and delights of gastronomy. +Hotelmen are not supposed to be educators, they merely cater to a +demand. And our new aristocracy has been too busy with limousines, +golf, divorces and electricity to bemourn the decline of classic +cookery. + +Most people "get by" without the benefit of classic cookery, +subsisting on a medley of edibles, tenaciously clinging to mother's +traditions, to things "as she used to make them," and mother's methods +still savor of Apicius. Surely, this is no sign of retrogression but +of tenacity. + +The only fundamental difference between Roman dining and that of our +own times may be found in these two indisputable facts-- + +(First) Devoid of the science of agriculture, without any advanced +mechanical means, food was not raised in a very systematic way; if it +happened to be abundant, Roma lacked storage and transportation +facilities to make good use of it. There never were any food supplies +on any large, extensive and scientific scale, hence raw materials, the +wherewithal of a "classic" meal, were expensive. + +(Second) Skilled labor, so vital for the success of any good dinner, +so imperative for the rational preparation of food was cheap to those +who held slaves. + +Hence, the culinary conditions of ancient Rome were exactly the +opposite of today's state of affairs. Then, good food was expensive +while good labor was cheap. Now, good food is cheap while skilled +labor is at a premium. Somehow, good, intelligent "labor" is reluctant +to devote itself to food. That is another story. The chances for a +good dinner seemed to be in favor of the Romans--but only for a +favored few. Those of us, although unable to command a staff of +experts, but able to prepare their own meals rationally and serve them +well are indeed fortunate. With a few dimes they may dine in royal +fashion. If our much maligned age has achieved anything at all it has +at least enabled the working "slave" of the "masses" to dine in a +manner that even princes could hardly match in former days, a manner +indeed that the princes of our own time could not improve upon. The +fly in the ointment is that most modern people do not know how to +handle and to appreciate food. This condition, however, may be +remedied by instruction and education. + +Slowly, the modern masses are learning to emulate their erstwhile +masters in the art of eating. They have the advantages of the great +improvements in provisioning as compared with former days, thanks +chiefly to the great lines of communication established by modern +commerce, thanks to scientific agriculture and to the spirit of +commercial enterprise and its resulting prosperity. + +There are two "Ifs" in the path to humanity's salvation, at least, +that of its table. If the commercialization of cookery, i.e., the +wholesale production of ready-made foods for the table does not +completely enthrall the housewife and if we can succeed to educate the +masses to make rational, craftsmanlike use of our wonderful stores of +edibles, employing or modifying to this end the rules of classic +cookery, there really should be no need for any serious talk about our +journey back to the primitive nuts. Even Spengler might be wrong then. +Adequate distribution of our foods and rational use thereof seem to be +one of the greatest problems today. + + +THE AUTHENTICITY OF APICIUS + +Age-old mysteries surrounding our book have not yet been cleared up. +Medieval savants have squabbled in vain. Mrs. Pennell's worries and +the fears of the learned Englishmen that Apicius might be a hoax have +proven groundless. Still, the mystery of this remarkable book is as +perplexing as ever. The authorship will perhaps never be established. +But let us forever dispel any doubt about its authenticity. + +Modern writers have never doubted the genuineness. To name but a few +who believe in Apicius: Thudichum, Vollmer, Brandt, Vicaire, Rumohr, +Schuch, Habs, Gollmer. + +What matters the identity of the author? Who wrote the Iliad, the +Odyssey, the Nibelungen-Lied? Let us be thankful for possessing them! + +Apicius is a genuine document of Roman imperial days. There can be no +doubt of that! + +The unquestionable age of the earliest known manuscripts alone +suffices to prove this. + +The philologist gives his testimony, too. A medieval scholar could +never have manufactured Apicius, imitating his strikingly original +terminology. "Faking" a technical treatise requires an intimate +knowledge of technical terms and familiarity with the ramifications of +an intricate trade. We recommend a comparison of Platina's text with +Apicius: the difference of ancient and medieval Latin is convincing. +Striking examples of this kind have been especially noted in our +dictionary of technical terms. + + +LATIN SLANG + +H. C. Coote, in his commentary on Apicius (cit. Apiciana) in speaking +of pan gravy, remarks: + + "Apicius calls this by the singular phrase of _jus de + suo sibi_! and sometimes though far less frequently, + _succus suus_. This phrase is curious enough in itself + to deserve illustration. It is true old fashioned + Plautian Latinity, and if other proof were wanting would + of itself demonstrate the genuineness of the Apician + text." + +This scholar goes on quoting from Plautus, _Captivi_, Act I, sc. 2, +vv. 12, 13; _Amphitruo_, Act I, sc. q.v. 116 and _ibid._ v. 174; and +from _Asinaria_, Act IV, sc. 2, vv. 16 and 17 to prove this, and he +further says: + + "The phrase is a rare remnant of the old familiar + language of Rome, such as slaves talked so long, that + their masters ultimately adopted it--a language of which + Plautus gives us glimpses and which the _graffiti_ may + perhaps help to restore. When Varius was emperor, this + phrase of the kitchen was as rife as when Plautus + wrote--a proof that occasionally slang has been long + lived." + +Coote is a very able commentator. He has translated in the article +quoted a number of Apician formulae; and betrays an unusual culinary +knowledge. + + +MODERN RESEARCH + +Modern means of communication and photography have enabled scientists +in widely different parts to study our book from all angles, to +scrutinize the earliest records, the Vatican and the New York +manuscripts and the codex Salmasianus in Paris. + +Friedrich Vollmer, of Munich, in his _Studien_ (cit. Apiciana) has +treated the manuscripts exhaustively, carrying to completion the +research begun by Schuch, Traube, Ihm, Studemund, Giarratano and +others with Brandt, his pupil, carrying on the work of Vollmer. More +modern scientists deeply interested in the origin of our book! None +doubting its genuineness. + +Vollmer is of the opinion that there reposed in the monastery of +Fulda, Germany, an _Archetypus_ which in the ninth century was copied +twice: once in a Turonian hand--the manuscript now kept in the +Vatican--the other copy written partly in insular, partly in +Carolingian minuscle--the Cheltenham _codex_, now in New York. The +common source at Fulda of these two manuscripts has been established +by Traube. There is another testimony pointing to Fulda as the oldest +known source. Pope Nicholas V commissioned Enoche of Ascoli to acquire +old manuscripts in Germany. Enoche used as a guide a list of works +based upon observations by Poggio in Germany in 1417, listing the +Apicius of Fulda. Enoche acquired the Fulda Apicius. He died in +October or November, 1457. On December 10th of that year, so we know, +Giovanni de'Medici requested Stefano de'Nardini, Governor of Ancona, +to procure for him from Enoche's estate either in copy or in the +original the book, entitled, _Appicius de re quoquinaria_ (cf. No. 3, +Apiciana). It is interesting to note that one of the Milanese editions +of 1498 bears a title in this particular spelling. Enoche during his +life time had lent the book to Giovanni Aurispa. + +It stands to reason that Poggio, in 1417, viewed at Fulda the +_Archetypus_ of our Apicius, father of the Vatican and the New York +manuscripts, then already mutilated and wanting books IX and X. Six +hundred years before the arrival of Poggio the Fulda book was no +longer complete. Already in the ninth century its title page had been +damaged which is proven by the title page of the Vatican copy which +reads: + + ___ + INCP + API + CAE + +That's all! The New York copy, it has been noted, has no title page. +This book commences in the middle of the list of chapters; the first +part of them and the title page are gone. We recall that the New York +manuscript was originally bound up with another manuscript, also in +the Phillipps library at Cheltenham. The missing page or pages were +probably lost in separating the two manuscripts. It is possible that +Enoche carried with him to Italy one of the ancient copies, very +likely the present New York copy, then already without a title. At any +rate, not more than twenty-five years after his book hunting +expedition we find both copies in Italy. It is strange, furthermore, +that neither of these two ancient copies were used by the fifteenth +century copyists to make the various copies distributed by them, but +that an inferior copy of the Vatican Ms. became the _vulgata_--the +progenitor of this series of medieval copies. One must bear in mind +how assiduously medieval scribes copied everything that appeared to be +of any importance to them, and how each new copy by virtue of human +fallibility or self-sufficiency must have suffered in the making, and +it is only by very careful comparison of the various manuscripts that +the original text may be rehabilitated. + +This, to a large extent, Vollmer and Giarratano have accomplished. +Vollmer, too, rejects the idea invented by the humanists, that Apicius +had a collaborator, editor or commentator in the person of C{oe}lius +or Caelius. This name, so Vollmer claims, has been added to the book by +medieval scholars without any reason except conjecture for such +action. They have been misled by the mutilated title: Api... Cae...; +Vollmer reconstructs this title as follows: + + API[cii artis magiri- (or) opsartyti-] + CAE[libri X] + +Remember, it is the title page only that is thus mutilated. The ten +books or chapters bear the full name of Apicius, never at any time +does the name of C{oe}lius appear in the text, or at the head of the +chapters. + +The _Archetypus_, with the book and the chapters carefully indexed and +numbered as they were, with each article neatly titled, the captions +and capital letters rubricated--heightened by red color, and with its +proper spacing of the articles and chapters must once have been a +representative example of the art of book making as it flourished +towards the end of the period that sealed the fate of the Roman +empire, when books of a technical nature, law books, almanacs, army +lists had been developed to a high point of perfection. Luxurious +finish, elaborate illumination point to the fact that our book (the +Vatican copy) was intended for the use in some aristocratic household. + + +THE EXCERPTS OF VINIDARIUS + +And now, from a source totally different than the two important +manuscripts so much discussed here, we receive additional proof of the +authenticity of Apicius. In the _codex Salmasianus_ (cf. III, +Apiciana) we find some thirty formulae attributed to Apicius, entitled: +_Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl._ They have been accepted as +genuine by Salmasius and other early scholars. Schuch incorporated the +_excerpta_ with his Apicius, placing the formulae in what he believed +to be the proper order. This course, for obvious reasons, is not to be +recommended. To be sure, the _excerpta_ are Apician enough in +character, though only a few correspond to, or are actual duplicates +of, the Apician precepts. They are additions to the stock of authentic +Apician recipes. As such, they may not be included but be appended to +the traditional text. The _excerpta_ encourage the belief that at the +time of Vinidarius (got. Vinithaharjis) about the fifth century there +must have been in circulation an Apicius (collection of recipes) much +more complete than the one handed down to us through Fulda. It is +furthermore interesting to note that the _excerpta_, too, are silent +about C{oe}lius. + +We may safely join Vollmer in his belief that M. Gabius Apicius, +celebrated gourmet living during the reign of Tiberius was the real +author, or collector, or sponsor of this collection of recipes, or at +least of the major part thereof--the formulae bearing the names of +posterior gourmets having been added from time to time. This theory +also applies to the two instances where the name of Varro is mentioned +in connection with the preparation of beets and onions (bulbs). It is +hardly possible that the author of the book made these references to +Varro. It is more probable that some well-versed posterior reader, +perusing the said articles, added to his copy: "And Varro prepared +beets this way, and onions that way...." (cf. Book III, [70]) Still, +there is no certainty in this theory either. There were many persons +by the names of Commodus, Trajanus, Frontinianus, such as are +appearing in our text, who were contemporaries of Apicius. + +With our mind at ease as regards the genuineness of our book we now +may view it at a closer range. + + +OBSCURE TERMINOLOGY + +Apicius contains technical terms that have been the subject of much +speculation and discussion. _Liquamen_, _laser_, _muria_, _garum_, +etc., belong to these. They will be found in our little dictionary. +But we cannot refrain from discussing some at present to make +intelligible the most essential part of the ancient text. + +Take _liquamen_ for instance. It may stand for broth, sauce, stock, +gravy, drippings, even for _court bouillon_--in fact for any liquid +appertaining to or derived from a certain dish or food material. Now, +if Apicius prescribes _liquamen_ for the preparation of a meat or a +vegetable, it is by no means clear to the uninitiated what he has in +mind. In fact, in each case the term _liquamen_ is subject to the +interpretation of the experienced practitioner. Others than he would +at once be confronted with an unsurmountable difficulty. Scientists +may not agree with us, but such is kitchen practice. Hence the many +fruitless controversies at the expense of the original, at the +disappointment of science. + +_Garum_ is another word, one upon which much contemptuous witticism +and serious energy has been spent. _Garum_ simply is a generic name +for fish essences. True, _garus_ is a certain and a distinct kind of +Mediterranean fish, originally used in the manufacture of _garum_; but +this product, in the course of time, has been altered, modified, +adulterated,--in short, has been changed and the term has naturally +been applied to all varieties and variations of fish essences, without +distinction, and it has thus become a collective term, covering all +varieties of fish sauces. Indeed, the corruption and degeneration of +this term, _garum_, had so advanced at the time of Vinidarius in the +fifth century as to lose even its association with any kind of fish. +Terms like _garatum_ (prepared with g.) have been derived from it. +Prepared with the addition of wine it becomes _{oe}nogarum_,--wine +sauce--and dishes prepared with such wine sauce receive the adjective +of _{oe}nogaratum_, and so forth. + +The original _garum_ was no doubt akin to our modern anchovy sauce, at +least the best quality of the ancient sauce. The principles of +manufacture surely are alike. _Garum_, like our anchovy sauce, is the +_puree_ of a small fish, named _garus_, as yet unidentified. The fish, +intestines and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, strained +and bottled for future use. The finest _garum_ was made of the livers +of the fish only, exposed to the sun, fermented, somehow preserved. It +was an expensive article in old Rome, famed for its medicinal +properties. Its mode of manufacture has given rise to much criticism +and scorn on the part of medieval and modern commentators and +interpreters who could not comprehend the "perverse taste" of the +ancients in placing any value on the "essence from putrified +intestines of fish." + +However, _garum_ has been vindicated, confirmed, endorsed, reiterated, +rediscovered, if you please, by modern science! What, pray, is the +difference in principle between _garum_ (the exact nature of which is +unknown) and the oil of the liver of cod (or less expensive fish) +exposed to the beneficial rays of ultraviolet light--artificial +sunlight--to imbue the oil with an extra large and uniform dose of +vitamin D? The ancients, it appears, knew "vitamin D" to exist. Maybe +they had a different name for "vitamins," maybe none at all. The name +does not matter. The thing which they knew, does. They knew the +nutritive value of liver, proven by many formulae. Pollio, one of the +vicious characters of antiquity, fed murenas (sea-eel) with slaves he +threw into the _piscina_, the fish pond, and later enjoyed the liver +of the fish. + +Some "modern" preparations are astonishingly ancient, and _vice +versa_. Our anchovy sauce is used freely to season fish, to mix with +butter, to be made into solid anchovy or fish paste. There are sardine +pastes, lobster pastes, fish forcemeats found in the larder of every +good kitchen--preparations of Apician character. A real platter of +_hors d'oeuvres_, an _antipasto_ is not complete unless made according +to certain Apician precepts. + +_Muria_ is salt water, brine, yet it may stand for a fluid in which +fish or meat, fruits or vegetables have been pickled. + +The difficulties of the translator of Apicius who takes him literally, +are unconsciously but neatly demonstrated by the work of Danneil. Even +he, seasoned practitioner, condemns _garum_, _muria_, _asa +f{oe}tida_, because professors before him have done so, because he +forgets that these very materials still form a vital part of some of +his own sauces only in a different shape, form or under a different +name. Danneil calls some Apician recipes "incredibly absurd," +"fabulous," "exaggerated," but he thinks nothing of the serving of +similar combinations in his own establishment every day in the year. + +Danneil would take pride in serving a Veal Cutlet a la Holstein. (What +have we learned of Apicius in the Northern countries?). The ancient +Holsteiner was not satisfied unless his piece of veal was covered with +a nice fat herring. That "barbarity" had to be modified by us moderns +into a veal cutlet, turned in milk and flour, eggs and bread crumbs, +fried, covered with fried eggs, garnished with anchovies or bits of +herring, red beets, capers, and lemon in order to qualify for a +restaurant favorite and "best seller." Apicius hardly has a dish more +characteristic and more bewildering. + +What of combinations of fish and meat? + +_De gustibus non est disputandum._ It all goes into the same stomach. +May it be a sturdy one, and let its owner beware. What of our turkey +and oyster dressing? Of our broiled fish and bacon? Of our clam +chowder, our divine _Bouillabaisse_? If the ingredients and component +parts of such dishes were enumerated in the laconic and careless +Apician style, if they were stated without explicit instructions and +details (supposed to be known to any good practitioner) we would have +recipes just as mysterious as any of the Apician formulae. + +Danneil, like ever so many interpreters, plainly shared the +traditional belief, the egregious errors of popular history. People +still are under the spell of the fantastic and fanciful descriptions +of Roman conviviality and gastronomic eccentricities. Indeed, we +rather believe in the insanity of these descriptions than in the +insane conduct of the average Roman gourmet. It is absurd of course to +assume and to make the world believe that a Roman patrician made a +meal of _garum_, _laserpitium_, and the like. They used these +condiments judiciously; any other use thereof is physically +impossible. They economized their spices which have caused so much +comment, too. As a matter of fact, they used condiments niggardly and +sparingly as is plainly described in some formulae, if only for the one +good and sufficient reason that spices and condiments which often came +from Asia and Africa were extremely expensive. This very reason, +perhaps, caused much of the popular outcry against their use, which, +by the way, is merely another form of political propaganda, in which, +as we shall see, the mob guided by the rabble of politicians excelled. + +We moderns are just as "extravagant" (if not more) in the use of +sauces and condiments--Apician sauces, too! Our Worcestershire, +catsup, chili, chutney, walnut catsup, A I, Harvey's, Punch, Soyer's, +Escoffier's, Oscar's (every culinary coryphee endeavors to create +one)--our mustards and condiments in their different forms, if not +actually dating back to Apicius, are, at least lineal descendants from +ancient prototypes. + +To readers little experienced in kitchen practice such phrases (often +repeated by Apicius) as, "crush pepper, lovage, marjoram," etc., +etc., may appear stereotyped and monotonous. They have not survived in +modern kitchen parlance, because the practice of using spices, flavors +and aromas has changed. There are now in the market compounds, +extracts, mixtures not used in the old days. Many modern spices come +to us ready ground or mixed, or compounded ready for kitchen use. This +has the disadvantage in that volatile properties deteriorate more +rapidly and that the goods may be easily adulterated. The Bavarians, +under Duke Albrecht, in 1553 prohibited the grinding of spices for +that very reason! Ground spices are time and labor savers, however. +Modern kitchen methods have put the old mortar practically out of +existence, at the expense of quality of the finished product. + + +THE "LABOR ITEM" + +The enviable Apicius cared naught for either time or labor. He gave +these two important factors in modern life not a single thought. His +culinary procedures required a prodigious amount of labor and effort +on the part of the cooks and their helpers. The labor item never +worried any ancient employer. It was either very cheap or entirely +free of charge. + +The selfish gourmet (which gourmet is not selfish?) almost wonders +whether the abolition of slavery was a well-advised measure in modern +social and economic life. Few people appreciate the labor cost in +excellent cookery and few have any conception of the cost of good food +service today. Yet all demand both, when "dining out," at least. Who, +on the other hand, but a brute would care to dine well, "taking it out +of the hide of others?" + +Hence we moderns with a craving for _gourmandise_ but minus +appropriations for skilled labor would do well to follow the example +of Alexandre Dumas who cheerfully and successfully attended to his own +cuisine. Despite an extensive fiction practice he found time to edit +"Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine" and was not above writing mustard +advertisements, either. + + +SUMPTUARY LAWS + +The appetite of the ancients was at times successfully curbed by +sumptuary laws, cropping out at fairly regular intervals. These laws, +usually given under the pretext of safeguarding the morals of the +people and accompanied by similar euphonious phrases were, like modern +prohibitions, vicious and virulent effusions of the predatory instinct +in mankind. We cannot give a chronological list of them here, and are +citing them merely to illustrate the difficulty confronting the +prospective ancient host. + +During the reign of Caesar and Augustus severe laws were passed, fixing +the sums to be spent for public and private dinners and specifying the +edibles to be consumed. These laws classified gastronomic functions +with an ingenious eye for system, professing all the time to protect +the public's morals and health; but they were primarily designed to +replenish the ever-vanishing contents of the Imperial exchequer and +to provide soft jobs for hordes of enforcers. The amounts allowed to +be spent for various social functions were so ridiculously small in +our own modern estimation that we may well wonder how a Roman host +could have ever made a decent showing at a banquet. However, he and +the cooks managed somehow. Imperial spies and informers were +omnipresent. The market places were policed, the purchases by +prospective hosts carefully noted, dealers selling supplies and cooks +(the more skillful kind usually) hired for the occasion were bribed to +reveal the "menu." Dining room windows had to be located conveniently +to allow free inspection from the street of the dainties served; the +passing Imperial food inspector did not like to intrude upon the +sanctity of the host's home. The pitiable host of those days, his +unenviable guests and the bewildered cooks, however, contrived and +conspired somehow to get up a banquet that was a trifle better than a +Chicago quick lunch. + +How did they do it? + +In the light of modern experience gained by modern governments +dillydallying with sumptuary legislation that has been discarded as a +bad job some two thousand years ago, the question seems superfluous. + +_Difficile est satyram non scribere!_ To make a long story short: The +Roman host just broke the law, that's all. Indeed, those who made the +laws were first to break them. The minions, appointed to uphold the +law, were easily accounted for. Any food inspector too arduous in the +pursuit of his duty was disposed of by dispatching him to the rear +entrance of the festive hall, and was delivered to the tender care of +the chief cook. + +Such was the case during the times of Apicius. Indeed, the Roman idea +of good cheer during earlier epochs was provincial enough. It was +simply barbaric before the Greeks showed the Romans a thing or two in +cookery. The methods of fattening fowl introduced from Greece was +something unheard-of! It was outrageous, sacrilegious! Senators, +orators and other self-appointed saviors of humanity thundered against +the vile methods of tickling the human palate, deftly employing all +the picturesque tam-tam and _elan_ still the stock in trade of ever so +many modern colleagues in any civilized parliament. The speeches, to +be sure, passed into oblivion, the fat capons, however, stayed in the +barnyards until they had acquired the saturation point of tender +luscious calories to be enjoyed by those who could afford them. How +the capon was "invented" is told in a note on the subject. + +Many other so-called luxuries, sausage from Epirus, cherries from the +Pontus, oysters from England, were greeted with a studied hostility by +those who profited from the business of making laws and public +opinion. + +Evidently, the time and the place was not very propitious for +gastronomic over-indulgence. Only when the ice was broken, when the +disregard for law and order had become general through the continuous +practice of contempt for an unpopular sumptuary law, when corruption +had become wellnigh universal chiefly thanks to the examples set by +the higher-ups, it was then that the torrent of human passion and +folly ran riot, exceeding natural bounds, tearing everything with +them, all that is beautiful and decent, thus swamping the great empire +beyond the hopes for any recovery. + + +APICIUS THE WRITER + +Most of the Apician directions are vague, hastily jotted down, +carelessly edited. One of the chief reasons for the eternal +misunderstandings! Often the author fails to state the quantities to +be used. He has a mania for giving undue prominence to expensive +spices and other (quite often irrelevant) ingredients. Plainly, +Apicius was no writer, no editor. He was a cook. He took it for +granted that spices be used within the bounds of reason, but he could +not afford to forget them in his formulae. + +Apicius surely pursues the correct culinary principle of incorporating +the flavoring agents during the process of cooking, contrary to many +moderns who, vigorously protesting against "highly seasoned" and +"rich" food, and who, craving for "something plain" proceed to +inundate perfectly good, plain roast or boiled dishes with a deluge of +any of the afore-mentioned commercial "sauces" that have absolutely no +relation to the dish and that have no mission other than to grant +relief from the deadening monotony of "plain" food. Chicken or mutton, +beef or venison, finnan haddie or brook trout, eggs or oysters thus +"sauced," taste all alike--sauce! To use such ready-made sauces with +dishes cooked _a l'anglaise_ is logical, excusable, almost advisable. +Even the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness of spicy +delights, nor can he for any length of time endure the insipidity of +plain food sans sauce. Hence the popularity of such sauces amongst +people who do not observe the correct culinary principle of seasoning +food judiciously, befitting its character, without spoiling but rather +in enhancing its characteristics and in bringing out its flavor at the +right time, namely during coction to give the kindred aromas a chance +to blend well. + +Continental nations, adhering to this important principle of cookery +(inherited from Apicius) would not dream of using ready-made (English) +sauces. + +We have witnessed real crimes being perpetrated upon perfectly +seasoned and delicately flavored _entrees_. We have watched +ill-advised people maltreat good things, cooked to perfection, even +before they tasted them, sprinkling them as a matter of habit, with +quantities of salt and pepper, paprika, cayenne, daubing them with +mustards of every variety or swamping them with one or several of the +commercial sauce preparations. "Temperamental" chefs, men who know +their art, usually explode at the sight of such wantonness. Which +painter would care to see his canvas varnished with all the hues in +the rainbow by a patron afflicted with such a taste? + +Perhaps the craving for excessive flavoring is an olfactory delirium, +a pathological case, as yet unfathomed like the excessive craving for +liquor, and, being a problem for the medical fraternity, it is only of +secondary importance to gastronomy. + +To say that the Romans were afflicted on a national scale with a +strange spice mania (as some interpreters want us to believe) would be +equivalent to the assertion that all wine-growing nations were nations +of drunkards. As a matter of fact, the reverse is the truth. + +Apicius surely would be surprised at some things we enjoy. _Voila_, a +recipe, "modern," not older than half a century, given by us in the +Apician style or writing: Take liquamen, pepper, cayenne, eggs, lemon, +olive oil, vinegar, white wine, anchovies, onions, tarragon, pickled +cucumbers, parsley, chervil, hard-boiled eggs, capers, green peppers, +mustard, chop, mix well, and serve. + +Do you recognize it? This formula sounds as phantastic, as "weird" and +as "vile" as any of the Apician concoctions, confusing even a +well-trained cook because we stated neither the title of this +preparation nor the mode of making it, nor did we name the ingredients +in their proper sequence. This mystery was conceived with an +illustrative purpose which will be explained later, which may and may +not have to do with the mystery of Apicius. Consider, for a moment, +this mysterious creation No. 2: Take bananas, oranges, cherries, +flavored with bitter almonds, fresh pineapple, lettuce, fresh peaches, +plums, figs, grapes, apples, nuts, cream cheese, olive oil, eggs, +white wine, vinegar, cayenne, lemon, salt, white pepper, dry mustard, +tarragon, rich sour cream, chop, mix, whip well. + +Worse yet! Instead of having our appetite aroused the very perusal of +this quasi-Apician _mixtum compositum_ repels every desire to partake +of it. We are justly tempted to condemn it as being utterly +impossible. Yet every day hundreds of thousand portions of it are sold +under the name of special fruit salad with _mayonnaise mousseuse_. The +above mystery No. 1 is the justly popular tartar sauce. + +Thus we could go on analyzing modern preparations and make them appear +as outlandish things. Yet we relish them every day. The ingredients, +obnoxious in great quantities, are employed with common sense. We are +not mystified seeing them in print; they are usually given in clear +logical order. This is not the style of Apicius, however. + + +LATIN CUNNING + +We can hardly judge Apicius by what he has revealed but we rather +should try to discover what he--purposely or otherwise--has concealed +if we would get a good idea of the ancient kitchen. This thought +occurred to us at the eleventh hour, after years of study of the text +and after almost despairing of a plausible solution of its mysteries. +And it seems surprising that Apicius has never been suspected before +of withholding information essential to the successful practice of his +rather hypothetical and empirical formulae. The more we scrutinize +them, the more we become convinced that the author has omitted vital +directions--same as we did purposely with the two modern examples +above. Many of the Apician recipes are dry enumerations of ingredients +supposed to belong to a given dish or sauce. It is well-known that in +chemistry (cookery is but applied chemistry) the knowledge of the +rules governing the quantities and the sequence of the ingredients, +their manipulation, either separately or jointly, either successively +or simultaneously, is a very important matter, and that violation or +ignorance of the process may spell failure at any stage of the +experiment. In the kitchen this is particularly true of baking and +soup and sauce making, the most intricate of culinary operations. + +There may have been two chief reasons for concealing necessary +information. Apicius, or more likely the professional collectors of +the recipes, may have considered technical elaboration of the formulae +quite superfluous on the assumption that the formulae were for +professional use only. Every good practitioner knows, with ingredients +or components given, what manipulations are required, what effects are +desired. Even in the absence of detailed specifications, the +experienced practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, +by intuition. As a matter of fact, in cookery the mention in the right +place of a single ingredient, like in poetry the right word, often +suffices to conjure up before the gourmet's mental eye vistas of +delight. Call it inspiration, association of ideas or what you please, +a single word may often prove a guide, a savior. + +Let us remember that in Apicii days paper (parchment, papyrus) and +writing materials were expensive and that, moreover, the ability of +correct logical and literary expression was necessarily limited in the +case of a practising cook who, after all, must have been the collector +of the Apician formulae. This is sufficiently proven by the _lingua +coquinaria_, the vulgar Latin of our old work. In our opinion, the +ancient author did not consider it worth his while to give anything +but the most indispensable information in the tersest form. This he +certainly did. A comparison of his literary performance with that of +the artistic and accomplished writer of the Renaissance, Platina, will +at once show up Apicius as a hard-working practical cook, a man who +knew his business but who could not tell what he knew. + +Like ever so many of his successors, he could not refrain from +beginning and concluding many of his articles with such superfluities +as "take this" and "And serve," etc., all of which shows him up as a +genuine cook. These articles, written in the most laconic language +possible--the language of a very busy, very harassed, very hurried +man, are the literary product of a cook, or several of them. + +The other chief motive for condensing or obscuring his text has a more +subtle foundation. Indeed, we are surprised that we should possess so +great a collection of recipes, representing to him who could use them +certain commercial and social value. The preservation of Apicius seems +entirely accidental. Experienced cooks were in demand in Apicii times; +the valuation of their ministrations increased proportionately to the +progress in gastronomy and to the prosperity of the nation. During +Rome's frugal era, up to 200 B.C. the primitive cooks were just slaves +and household chattels; but the development of their trade into an +art, stimulated by foreign precepts, imported principally from Greece, +Sicily and Asia Minor, opened up to the practitioners not only the +door to freedom from servitude but it offered even positions of wealth +with social and political standing, often arousing the envy, satire, +criticism of bona-fide politicians, journalists, moralists, satirists +and of the ever-present hordes of parasites and hangers-on. Some cooks +became confidants, even friends and advisors of men in high places, +emperors, (cf. life of Vitellius) and through their subtle influence +upon the mighty they may have contributed in no mean measure to the +fate of the nation. But such invisible string-pullers have not been +confined to those days alone. (Take Rasputin! Take the valet to +William I, reputed to have had more "say" than the mighty Bismarck, +who, as it developed, got "the air" while the valet died in his +berth.) + +Such being the case, what potential power reposed in a greasy cookery +manuscript! And, if so, why bare such wonderful secrets to Tom, Dick +and Harry? + +Weights and measures are given by Apicius in some instances. But just +such figures can be used artfully to conceal a trap. Any mediocre +cook, gaining possession of a choice collection of detailed and +itemized recipes would have been placed in an enviable position. +Experimenting for some time (at his master's expense) he would soon +reach that perfection when he could demand a handsome compensation for +his ministrations. Throughout antique times, throughout the middle +ages down to the present day (when patent laws no longer protect a +secret) strict secrecy was maintained around many useful and lucrative +formulae, not only by cooks, but also by physicians, alchemists and the +various scientists, artisans and craftsmen. Only the favorite +apprentice would be made heir to or shareholder in this important +stock in trade after his worthiness had been proven to his master's +satisfaction, usually by the payment of a goodly sum of +money--apprentice's pay. We remember reading in Lanciani (Rodolfo L.: +Ancient Rome in the Light of Recent Discoveries) how in the entire +history of Rome there is but one voice, that of a solitary, +noble-minded physician, complaining about the secrecy that was being +maintained by his colleagues as regards their science. To be sure, +those fellows had every reason in the world for keeping quiet: so +preposterous were their methods in most cases! This secrecy indeed +must have carried with it a blessing in disguise. Professional reserve +was not its object. The motive was purely commercial. + +Seeing where the information given by Apicius is out of reason and +unintelligible we are led to believe that such text is by no means to +be taken very literally. On the contrary, it is quite probable that +weights and measures are not correct: they are quite likely to be of +an artful and studied unreliability. A secret private code is often +employed, necessitating the elimination or transposition of certain +words, figures or letters before the whole will become intelligible +and useful. If by any chance an uninitiated hand should attempt to +grasp such veiled directions, failure would be certain. We confess to +have employed at an early stage of our own career this same strategy +and time-honored camouflage to protect a precious lot of recipes. +Promptly we lost this unctuous manuscript, as we feared we would; if +not deciphered today, the book has long since been discarded as being +a record of the ravings of a madman. + +The advent of the printing press changed the situation. With Platina, +ca. 1474, an avalanche of cookery literature started. The secrets of +Scappi, "_cuoco secreto_" to the pope, were "scooped" by an +enterprising Venetian printer in 1570. The guilds of French mustard +makers and sauce cooks (precursors of modern food firms and +manufacturers of ready-made condiments) were a powerful tribe of +secret mongers in the middle ages. English gastronomic literature of +the 16th, 17th and even the 18th century is crowded with "closets +opened," "secrets let out" and other alluring titles purporting to +regale the prospective reader with profitable and appetizing secrets +of all sorts. Kitchen secrets became commercial articles. + +These remarks should suffice to illustrate the assumption that the +Apicius book was not created for publication but that it is a +collection of abridged formulae for private use, a treasure chest as it +were, of some cook, which after the demise of its owner, collector, +originator, a curious world could not resist to play with, although +but a few experienced masters held the key, being able to make use of +the recipes. + + +MEAT DIET + +In perusing Apicius only one or two instances of cruelty to animals +have come to our attention (cf. recipes No. 140 and 259). Cruel +methods of slaughter were common. Some of the dumb beasts that were to +feed man and even had to contribute to his pleasures and enjoyment of +life by giving up their own lives often were tortured in cruel, +unspeakable ways. The belief existed that such methods might increase +the quality, palatability and flavor of the meat. Such beliefs and +methods may still be encountered on the highways and byways in Europe +and Asia today. Since the topic, strictly speaking does not belong +here, we cannot depict it in detail, and in passing make mention of it +to refer students interested in the psychology of the ancients to such +details as are found in the writings of Plutarch and other ancient +writers during the early Christian era. It must be remembered, +however, that such writers (including the irreproachable Plutarch) +were advocates of vegetarianism. Some passages are inspired by true +humane feeling, but much appears to be written in the interest of +vegetarianism. + +The ancients were not such confirmed meat eaters as the modern Western +nations, merely because the meat supply was not so ample. Beef was +scarce because of the shortage of large pastures. The cow was sacred, +the ox furnished motive power, and, after its usefulness was gone, the +muscular old brute had little attraction for the gourmet. Today lives +a race of beef eaters. Our beef diet, no doubt is bound to change +somewhat. Already the world's grazing grounds are steadily +diminishing. The North American prairies are being parcelled off into +small farms the working conditions of which make beef raising +expensive. The South American pampas and a strip of coastal land in +Australia now furnish the bulk of the world's beef supply. Perhaps +Northern Asia still holds in store a large future supply of meat but +this no doubt will be claimed by Asia. Already North America is +acclimating the Lapland reindeer to offset the waning beef, to utilize +its Northern wastes. + +With the increasing shortage of beef, with the increasing facilities +for raising chicken and pork, a reversion to Apician methods of +cookery and diet is not only probably but actually seems inevitable. +The ancient bill of fare and the ancient methods of cookery were +entirely guided by the supply of raw materials--precisely like ours. +They had no great food stores nor very efficient marketing and +transportation systems, food cold storage. They knew, however, to take +care of what there was. They were good managers. + +Such atrocities as the willful destruction of huge quantities of food +of every description on the one side and starving multitudes on the +other as seen today never occurred in antiquity. + +Many of the Apician dishes will not appeal to the beef eaters. It is +worthy of note that much criticism was heaped upon Apicius some 200 +years ago in England when beef eating became fashionable in that +country. The art of Apicius requires practitioners of superior +intellect. Indeed, it requires a superior clientele to appreciate +Apician dishes. But practitioners that would pass the requirements of +the Apician school are scarce in the kitchens of the beef eaters. We +cannot blame meat eaters for rejecting the average _chef d'{oe}uvre_ +set before them by a mediocre cook who has learned little besides the +roasting or broiling of meats. Once the average man has acquired a +taste for the refined compositions made by a talented and experienced +cook, say, a composition of meats, vegetables or cereals, properly +"balanced" by that intuition that never fails the real artist, the +fortunate diner will eventually curtail the preponderant meat diet. A +glance at some Chinese and Japanese methods of cookery may perhaps +convince us of the probability of these remarks. + +Nothing is more perplexing and more alarming than a new dish, but we +can see in a reversion to Apician cookery methods only a dietetic +benefit accruing to this so-called white race of beef eaters. + +Apicius certainly excels in the preparation of vegetable dishes (cf. +his cabbage and asparagus) and in the utilization of parts of food +materials that are today considered inferior, hardly worth preparing +for the table except by the very careful and economical housekeeper. +Properly prepared, many of these things are good, often more +nutritious than the dearer cuts, and sometimes they are really +delicious. + +One has but to study the methods of ancient and intelligent people who +have suffered for thousands of years under the perennial shortage of +food supplies in order to understand and to appreciate Apician +methods. Be it far from us to advocate their methods, or to wish upon +us the conditions that engendered such methods; for such practices +have been pounded into these people by dire necessity. They have +graduated from the merciless school of hunger. + +Food materials, we repeat, were never as cheap and as abundant as they +are today. But who can say that they always will be so in the future? + + +SCIENCE CONFIRMING ANCIENT METHODS + +We must not overlook the remarkable intuition displayed by the +ancients in giving preference to foods with body- and blood-building +properties. For instance, the use of liver, particularly fish liver +already referred to. The correctness of their choice is now being +confirmed by scientific re-discoveries. The young science of nutrition +is important enough to an individual who would stimulate or preserve +his health. But since constitutions are different, the most carefully +conceived dietary may apply to one particular individual only, +provided, however, that our present knowledge of nutrition be correct +and final. This knowledge, as a matter of fact, is being revised and +changed constantly. + +If dietetics, therefore, were important enough to have any bearing at +all upon the well-defined methods of cookery, we might go into detail +analyzing ancient methods from that point of view. To call attention +to the "economy," the stewardship, or craftsmanship, in ancient +methods and to the truly remarkable intuition that guided the ancient +cooks is more important. Without these qualities there can be no +higher gastronomy. Without high gastronomy no high civilization is +possible. The honest and experienced nutrition expert, though perhaps +personally opposed to elaborate dining, will discover through close +study of the ancient precepts interesting pre-scientific and +well-balanced combinations and methods designed to jealously guard the +vitamins and dietetic values in dishes that may appear curiously "new" +to the layman that would nevertheless receive the unqualified approval +of modern science. + +We respect the efforts of modern dietitians and food reformers; but we +are far removed from the so-called "simple" and "plain" foods +advocated by some well-meaning individuals. With the progress of +civilization we are farther and farther drifting away from it. Even +barbaric and beastly food is not "simple." + +This furtive "intuition" in cookery (in the absence of scientific +facts because of the inability of cooks to transform empirical +traditions into practical rules emanating from understood principles) +still prevails today. It guides great chefs, saves time spent in +scientific study. + +The much criticized "unnatural union of sugar and meats" of the +ancients still exists today in many popular examples of cookery: lamb +and mint sauce, steak and catsup, mutton and currant jelly, pork and +apples (in various forms), oyster cocktail, poultry and compote, goose +with apple and raisin dressing, venison and Cumberland sauce, mince +pie, plum pudding--typical survivals of ancient traditions. +"Intuition" is still preceding exact science, and "unnatural unions" +as in social, political and any other form of life, seem to be the +rule rather than the exception. + + +DISGUISING FOODS + +Apicius is often blamed for his endeavor to serve one thing under the +guise of another. The reasons for such deceptions are various ones. +Fashion dictated it. Cooks were not considered "clever" unless they +could surprise guests with a commonplace food material so skillfully +prepared that identification was difficult or impossible. Another +reason was the absence of good refrigeration, making "masking" +necessary. Also the ambition of hosts to serve a cheaper food for a +more expensive one--veal for chicken, pork for partridge, and so on. +But do we not indulge in the same "stunts" today? We either do it with +the intention of deceiving or to "show off." Have we not "Mock Turtle +Soup," _Mouton a la Chasseur_, mutton prepared to taste like venison, +"chicken" salad made of veal or of rabbit? In Europe even today much +of the traditional roast hare is caught in the alley, and it belongs +to a feline species. "Roof hare." + + +FOOD ADULTERATIONS + +There is positive evidence of downright frauds and vicious food +adulteration in the times of Apicius. The old rascal himself is not +above giving directions for rose wine without roses, or how to make a +spoiled honey marketable, and other similar adulterations. Those of +our readers with sensitive gastronomic instinct had better skip the +paragraphs discussing the treatment of "birds with a goatish smell." +But the old food adulterators are no match for their modern +successors. + +Too, some of our own shams are liable to misinterpretation. In +centuries to come our own modern recipes for "Scotch Woodcock" or +"Welsh rabbit" may be interpreted as attempts on our part to hoodwink +guests by making game birds and rabbits out of cheese and bread, like +Trimalchio's culinary artists are reputed to have made suckling pigs +out of dough, partridges of veal, chicken of tunny fish, and _vice +versa_. What indeed would a serious-minded research worker a thousand +years hence if unfamiliar with our culinary practice and traditions +make of such terms as _pette de nonne_ as found in many old French +cookery books, or of the famous _suttelties_ (subtleties)--the +confections once so popular at medieval weddings? + +The ramifications of the _lingua coquinaria_ in any country are +manifold, and the culinary wonderland is full of pitfalls even for the +experienced gourmet. + + +REACHING THE LIMIT + +Like in all other branches of ancient endeavor, cookery had reached a +state of perfection around the time of Apicius when the only chance +for successful continuation of the art lay in the conquest of new +fields, i.e., in expansion, generalization, elaboration and in +influence from foreign sources. We have witnessed this in French +cookery which for the last hundred years has successfully expanded and +has virtually captured the civilized parts of the globe, subject +however, always to regional and territorial modifications. + +This desirable expansion of antique cookery did not take place. It was +violently and rather suddenly checked principally by political and +economic events during the centuries following Apicius, perhaps +principally by the forces that caused the great migration (the very +quest of food!). Suspension ensued instead. The heirs to the ancient +culture were not yet ready for their marvelous heritage. Besides their +cultural unpreparedness, the cookery of the ancients, like their +humor, did not readily appeal to the "Nordic" heirs. Both are so +subtle and they depend so much upon the psychology and the economic +conditions of a people, and they thus presented almost unsurmountable +obstacles to the invaders. Still lo! already in the fifth century, the +Goth Vinithaharjis, started to collect the Apician precepts. + + +OUR PREDECESSORS + +The usefulness in our days of Apicius as a practical cookery book has +been questioned, but we leave this to our readers to decide after the +perusal of this translation. + +If not useful in the kitchen, if we cannot grasp its moral, what, +then, is Apicius? Merely a curio? + +The existing manuscripts cannot be bought; the old printed editions +are highly priced by collectors, and they are rare. Still, the few +persons able to read the messages therein cannot use them: they are +not practitioners in cookery. + +None of the Apician editors (except Danneil and the writer) were +experienced practising gastronomers. Humelbergius, Lister, Bernhold +were medical men. Two serious students, Schuch and Wuestemann, gave up +academic positions to devote a year to the study of modern cookery in +order to be able to interpret Apicius. These enthusiasts overlooked, +however, two facts: Apicius cannot be understood by inquiring into +modern average cookery methods, nor can complete mastery of cookery, +practical as well as theoretical, including the historical and +physiological aspects of gastronomy be acquired in one year. Richard +Gollmer, another Apicius editor, declares that the results of this +course in gastronomy were negative. We might add here that Schuch's +edition of Apicius, apart from the unwarranted inclusion of the +_excerpta_ of Vinidarius is the least reliable of all editions. + +Gollmer published a free version of Apicius in German in 1909. If he +did not render the original very faithfully and literally, it must +be said in all fairness that his methods of procedure were correct. +Gollmer attempted to interpret the ancient text for the modern +reader. Unfortunately he based his work upon that of Schuch and +Wuestemann and Lister. A year or so later Eduard Danneil published a +version of his own, also based on Schuch. This editor is a +practising _chef_,--_Hof-Traiteur_ or caterer to the court of one of +the then reigning princes of Germany. Danneil's preface is dated +1897, though the date of publication is 1911. In view of the fact +that Gollmer had covered the ground and that Danneil added nothing +new to Apician lore, his publication seems superfluous. Danneil's +translation differs in that the translator adhered literally to the +questionable Schuch version whereas Gollmer aspired to a free and +readable version for an educated public. + +A comparison reveals that the one author is not a cook while the other +is not a savant. + +Like the scholars who tried their hand at cookery, there are a number +of worthy and ambitious practitioners of cookery who have endeavored +to reach the heights of scholarship, among them Careme and Soyer, men +of great calibre. Unfortunately, the span of human life is short, the +capacity of the human mind is limited. Fruitful achievements in widely +different fields of endeavor by one man are rare. This is merely to +illustrate the extreme difficulty encountered by anyone bent on a +venturesome exploration of our subject and the very narrow chances of +success to extricate himself with grace from the two-thousand year old +labyrinth of philosophical, historical, linguistical and gastronomical +technicalities. + +This task will become comparatively easy, however, and surely +interesting and with a foreboding of many delights and surprises if we +penetrate the jungle aided by the experience of predecessors, +steadfastly relying on the "theory of evolution" as a guide, and armed +with the indispensable equipment for gastronomical research, i.e., the +practical and technical knowledge of cookery, mastery of languages, +augmented by practical experience gathered by observations and travel +in many lands, and last but not least, if we are obsessed with the +fixed idea that so menial a subject is worth all the bother. + +We have purposely refrained from presenting here a treatise in the +customary scientific style. We know, there are repetitions, +digressions, excursions into adjacent fields that may be open to +criticism. We really do not aim to make this critical review an +exhibition of scholarly attainments with all the necessary brevity, +clarity, scientific restraint and etiquette. Such style would be +entirely out of our line. Any bookish flavor attaching itself to our +work would soon replace a natural fragrance we aim to preserve, namely +our close contact with the subject. Those interested in the scholarly +work that has been contributed to this cause are referred to modern +men like Vollmer, Giarratano, Brandt and others named in the +bibliography. Of the older scientists there is Martinus Lister, a man +whose knowledge of the subject is very respectable and whose devotion +to it is unbounded, whose integrity as a scientist is above reproach. +His notes and commentaries together with those of Humelbergius, the +editor-physician of Zuerich, will be enjoyed and read with profit by +every antiquary. The labors of Bernhold and Schuch are meritorious +also, the work, time, and _esprit_ these men have devoted to the +subject is enormous. As for Torinus, the opinions are divided. +Humelbergius ignores him, Gryphius pirates him, Lister scorns him, we +like him. Lister praises his brother physician, Humelbergius: _Doctus +quidem vir et modestus!_ So he is! The notes by Humelbergius alone and +his word: _Nihil immutare ausi summus!_ entitles him to all the praise +Lister can bestow. Unfortunately, the sources of his information are +unknown. + +Lacking these, we have of course no means of ascertaining whether he +always lived up to his word that he is not privileged to change. +Humelbergius and Lister may have made contributions of value from a +philological point of view but their work appears to have less merit +gastronomically than that of Torinus. To us the Basel editor often +seems surprisingly correct in cases where the gastronomical character +of a formula is in doubt. + +In rendering the ancient text into English we, too, have endeavored to +follow Humelbergii example; hence the almost literal translation of +the originals before us, namely, Torinus, Humelbergius, Lister, +Bernhold, Schuch and the latest, Giarratano-Vollmer which reached us +in 1925 in time for collating. We have wavered often and long whether +or not to place alongside this English version the original Latin +text, but due to the divergencies we have finally abandoned the idea, +for practical reasons alone. + +In translating we have endeavored to clear up mysteries and errors; +this interpretation is a work quite apart and independent of that of +the translation. It is merely the sum and substance of our practical +experience in gastronomy. It is not to be taken as an attempt to +change the original but is presented in good faith, to be taken on its +face value. This interpretation appears in the form of notes directly +under each article, for quick reference and it is our wish that it be +of some practical service in contributing to the general understanding +and appreciation of our ancient book. + +For the sake of expediency we have numbered and placed a title (in +English) on each ancient recipe, following the example of Schuch. This +procedure may be counted against us as a liberty taken with the text. +The text has remained inviolate. We have merely aimed at a rational +and legible presentation--work within the province and the duty of an +editor-translator and technical expert. + +We do not claim credit for any other work connected with the task of +making this most unique book accessible to the English speaking public +and for the competition for scholastic laurels we wish to stay _hors +de combat_. We feel we are not privileged to pass final judgment upon +the excellent work done by sympathetic and erudite admirers of our +ancient book throughout the better part of four centuries, and we +cannot side with one or the other in questions philological, +historical, or of any other nature, except gastronomical. We are +deeply indebted to all of our predecessors and through conversations +and extensive correspondence with other modern researchers, Dr. Edward +Brandt and Dr. Margaret B. Wilson, we are enabled to predict new +developments in Apician research. The debates of the scientists, it +appears, are not yet closed. + +As a matter of fact, the various differences of opinion in minor +questions are of little import to us as compared with the delightful +fact that we here possess an Apicius, not only a genuine Roman, but an +"honest-to-goodness" human being besides. A jolly fellow is Apicius +with a basketful of happy messages for a hungry world. We therefore +want to make this work of ours the entertainment and instruction the +subject deserves to be. If we succeed in proving that Apicius is not a +mummified, bone-dry classic but that he has "the goods," namely some +real human merit we shall have accomplished more than the savants to +whom this popularization of our hero has been denied so far. + +After all, we live in a practical age, and it is the practical value, +the matter-of-fact contribution to our happiness and well-being by the +work of any man, ancient or modern, which counts in these days of +materialism. + +So let us tell the truth, and let us sum up in a few words: + +We do not know who Apicius is. We do not know who wrote the book +bearing his name. We do not know when it was written, or whether it +is of Greek or of Roman origin. Furthermore, we do not understand many +of its precepts! + +We do know, however, that it is the oldest work dealing with the food +and the cookery of the ancient world's greatest empire, and that, as +such, it is of the utmost interest and importance to us. + +In this sense we have endeavored to treat the book. + + +DINING IN APICIAN STYLE + +Past attempts to dine a l'Apicius invariably have ended disastrously. +Eager _gourmets_, ever on the look-out for something new, and curious +scholars have attempted to prepare dishes in the manner prescribed by +Apicius. Most of such experimenters have executed the old precepts +literally, instead of trying to enter into their spirit. + +"_Das Land der Griechen mit der Seele suchen!_" says Goethe. The +friends of Apicius who failed to heed this advice, also failed to +comprehend the precepts, they were cured of their curiosity, and +blamed the master for their own shortcomings. Christina, queen of +Sweden, was made ill by an attempt of this kind to regale her majesty +with a rare Apician morsel while in Italy as the guest of some noble. +But history is dark on this point. Here perhaps Apicius is blamed for +a dastardly attempt on the royal lady's life for this daughter of the +Protestant Gustavus Adolphus was in those days not the only crowned +head in danger of being dispatched by means of some tempting morsel +smilingly proffered by some titled rogue. A deadly dish under the +disguise of "Apicius" must have been particularly convenient in those +days for such sinister purposes. The sacred obligations imposed upon +"barbarians" by the virtue of hospitality had been often forgotten by +the super-refined hosts of the Renaissance. + +But Apicius continued to prove unhealthful to a number of later +amateurs. Lister, with his perfectly sincere endeavor to popularize +Apicius, achieved precisely the opposite. The publication of his work +in London, 1705, was the signal for a number of people, scholars and +others, to crack jokes, not at the expense of Apicius, as they +imagined, but to expose their own ignorance. Smollet, Dr. W. King +("Poor starving wit"--Swift), Dr. Hunter and others. More recently, a +party of English dandies, chaperoned, if we remember correctly, by the +ponderous George Augustus Sala, fared likewise badly in their attempt +to stage a Roman feast, being under the impression that the days of +Tiberius and the mid-Victorian era may be joined with impunity, _a la +minute_, as it were. + +Even later, in one of the (alas! not so many) good books on +gastronomy, "Kettner's Book of the Table," London, 1877, the excellent +author dismisses Roman cookery with a few lines of "warning." Kettner, +admirer of Sala, evidently was still under the baneful influence. +Twenty years later, Danneil, colleague of Kettner's, joined the chorus +of "irreverent critics." They all based their judgment on mere idle +conversation, resulting from disappointments in ill-fated attempts to +cook in the Apician style. Even the best experts, it appears, fall +victims to the mysterious spell surrounding, protecting things of +sacred antiquity, hovering like an avenging angel over them, to ward +off all "irreverent critics" and curious intruders. + + +THE PROOF OF THE PUDDING + +After all, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. This homely +solid wisdom is literally true of our good old Apicius. We have tested +many of his precepts, and have found them practical, good, even +delightful. A few, we will say, are of the rarest beauty and of +consummate perfection in the realm of gastronomy, while some others +again are totally unintelligible for reasons sufficiently explained. +Always remembering Humelbergius, we have "laid off" of these torsos, +recommending them to some more competent commentator. Many of the +ancient formula tried have our unqualified gastronomic approval. + +If our work has not differed from that of our predecessors, if it +shows the same human frailties and foibles, we have at least one mark +of distinction among the editors in that we have subjected the +original to severe practical tests as much as this is possible with +our modern food materials. We experienced difficulty in securing +certain spices long out of use. Nevertheless, the experience of +actually sampling Apician dishes and the sensation of dining in the +manners of the Caesars are worth the trouble we took with Apicius. This +is a feeling of partaking of an entirely new dish, met with both +expectancy and with suspicion, accentuated by the hallowed traditions +surrounding it which has rewarded us for the time and expense devoted +to the subject. Ever since we have often dined in the classical +fashion of the ancients who, after all, were but "folks" like +ourselves. + +If you care not for the carnal pleasures in Apician gastronomy--for +_gulam_,--if you don't give a fig for philology, there still is something +healthy, something infinitely soothing and comforting--"educational"--in +the perusal of the old book and in similar records. + +When we see Apicius, the famous "epicure" descending to the very level +of a common food "fakir," giving directions for making Liburnian oil +that has never seen that country.... + +When we note, with a gentle shudder, that the grafters of Naples, +defying even the mighty Augustus, leveled the "White Earth Hill" near +Puteoli because an admixture of plaster paris is exceedingly +profitable to the milling profession.... + +When Apicius--celebrated glutton--resorts to the comparatively +harmless "stunt" of keeping fresh vegetables green by boiling them in +a copper kettle with soda.... + +When we behold hordes of ancient legislators, posing as dervishes of +moderation, secretly and openly breaking the prohibition laws of their +own making.... + +When we turn away from such familiar sights and, in a more jovial +mood, heartily laugh at the jokes of that former mill slave, Plautus +(who could not pay his bills) and when we wonder why his wise cracks +sound so familiar we remember that we have heard their modern versions +only yesterday at the Tivoli on State Street.... + +When, finally, in the company of our respected Horatius we hear him +say in the slang of his day: _Ab ovo usque ad mala_, and compare this +bright saying with our own dear "From Soup to Nuts."... + +Then we arrive at the comforting conclusion that we moderns are either +very ancient and backward or that indeed the ancients are very modern +and progressive; and it is our only regret that we cannot decide this +perplexing situation to our lasting satisfaction. + +Very true, there may be nothing new under the sun, yet nature goes on +eternally fashioning new things from old materials. Eternally +demolishing old models in a manner of an economical sculptor, nature +uses the same old clay to create new specimens. Sometimes nature +slightly alters the patterns, discarding what is unfit for her +momentary enigmatic purposes, retaining and favoring that which +pleases her whimsical fancy for the time being. + +Cookery deals exclusively with nature's works. Books on cookery are +essentially books on nature's actions and reactions. + +In the perpetual search for perfection, life has accomplished one +remarkable thing: the development of man, the animal which cooks. +Gradually nature has revealed herself to man principally through the +food he takes, cooks and prepares for the enjoyment of himself and his +fellow men. + + +THE COOKING ANIMAL + +The gastronomer is the highest development of the cooking animal. + +He--artist, philosopher, metaphysician, religionist--stands with his +head bared before nature: overawed, contemplating her gifts, feasting +his eyes on beauteous forms and colors, inhaling intoxicating +fragrances, aromas, odors, matching them all artistically, partaking +only of what he needs for his own subsistence--eternally marveling at +nature's inexhaustible resources and inventiveness, at her everlasting +bounty born of everlasting fierce struggles. + +The gastronomer is grateful for the privilege of holding the +custodianship of such precious things, and he guards it like an office +of a sacred rite--ever gratefully, reverently adoring, cherishing the +things before him ... ever marveling ... ever alone, alone with +nature. + +As for the overwhelming majority of the cooking animals, they behave +much more "naturally." They are a merry crowd, ever anticipating a +good time, ever jolly, eager, greedy. Or, they are cranky, hungry, +starved, miserable, and they turn savage now and then. Some are +gluttonous. Many contract indigestion--nature's most subtle +punishment. + +If they were told that they must kill before they may cook--that might +spoil the appetite and dinner joy of many a tender-hearted devourer of +fellow-creatures. + +Heaven forbid! Being real children of nature, and behaving naturally, +nature likes them, and we, too, certainly are well pleased with the +majority. + +The only fly in the ointment of life is that we don't know what it is +all about, and probably never will know. + + +PRO{OE}MII FINIS + + + + +{Illustration: TRIPOD FOR THE GREAT CRATER + +Hildesheim Treasure} + + + + + THE RECIPES OF APICIUS + AND + THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS + BY VINIDARIUS + + ORIGINAL TRANSLATION FROM THE TEXTS + OF TORINUS, HUMELBERGIUS, LISTER + AND GIARRATANO-VOLLMER + WITH NOTES AND COMMENTS + + + + +{Illustration: "DINNER GONG" + +Heavy bronze disk and substantial "knocker" to signal slaves. Found in +Pompeii. "Hurry, fellows, the cakes are piping hot!"--Plautus. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 78622; Field M., 24133.} + + + + +{Illustration: OVAL SERVICE DISH + +With two decorated handles. Hildesheim Treas.} + + + + +THE TEN BOOKS OF APICIUS + + +I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK. II. MINCES. III. THE GARDENER. IV. +MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. V. LEGUMES. VI. POULTRY. VII. FANCY DISHES. +VIII. QUADRUPEDS. IX. SEA FOOD. X. FISH SAUCES. THE EXCERPTS OF +VINIDARIUS. + +[V. The Greek titles of the ten books point to a common Greek origin, +indicating that Apicius is a collection of Greek monographs on various +branches of cookery, specialization such as highly developed +civilizations would produce. Both the literary style and the contents +of the books point to different authors, as may be seen from the very +repetitions of and similarities in subjects as in VI and VIII, and in +IX and X. The absence of books on bread and cake baking, dessert +cookery indicates that the present Apicius is not complete.] + + + + +BOOK I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK + +_Lib. I. Epimeles_ + + + CHAP. I. FINE SPICED WINE. HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS. + CHAP. II. ROMAN VERMOUTH. + CHAP. III. ROSE WINE. VIOLET WINE. ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES. + CHAP. IV. LIBURNIAN OIL. + CHAP. V. TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE. + CHAP. VI. TO IMPROVE A BROTH WITH A BAD ODOR. + CHAP. VII. TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT. TO KEEP COOKED + SIDES OF PORK. + CHAP. VIII. TO MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET. + CHAP. IX. TO KEEP FRIED FISH. TO KEEP OYSTERS. + CHAP. X. TO MAKE LASER GO A LONG WAY. + CHAP. XI. TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST. TO MAKE SPOILED HONEY GOOD. + TO TEST SPOILED HONEY. + CHAP. XII. TO KEEP GRAPES. TO KEEP POMEGRANATES. TO KEEP QUINCES. + TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS. TO KEEP CITRON. TO KEEP + MULBERRIES. TO KEEP POT HERBS. TO PRESERVE SORREL. TO + KEEP TRUFFLES. TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES. + CHAP. XIII. SPICED SALTS FOR MANY ILLS. + CHAP. XIV. TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES. + CHAP. XV. CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH. ANOTHER. + CHAP. XVI. LASER FLAVOR. ANOTHER. + CHAP. XVII. WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES. ANOTHER. + CHAP. XVIII. OXYPORUM. + CHAP. XIX. HYPOTRIMA. + CHAP. XX. OXYGARUM, DIGESTIVE. ANOTHER. + CHAP. XXI. MORTARIA. + + + +I + + +[1] FINE SPICED WINE + _CONDITUM PARADOXUM_ + +THE COMPOSITION OF [this] EXCELLENT SPICED WINE [is as follows]. INTO +A COPPER BOWL PUT 6 SEXTARII [1] OF HONEY AND 2 SEXTARII OF WINE; HEAT +ON A SLOW FIRE, CONSTANTLY STIRRING THE MIXTURE WITH A WHIP. AT THE +BOILING POINT ADD A DASH OF COLD WINE, RETIRE FROM STOVE AND SKIM. +REPEAT THIS TWICE OR THREE TIMES, LET IT REST TILL THE NEXT DAY, AND +SKIM AGAIN. THEN ADD 4 OZS. OF CRUSHED PEPPER [2], 3 SCRUPLES OF +MASTICH, A DRACHM EACH OF [nard or laurel] LEAVES AND SAFFRON, 5 +DRACHMS OF ROASTED DATE STONES CRUSHED AND PREVIOUSLY SOAKED IN WINE +TO SOFTEN THEM. WHEN THIS IS PROPERLY DONE ADD 18 SEXTARII OF LIGHT +WINE. TO CLARIFY IT PERFECTLY, ADD [crushed] CHARCOAL [3] TWICE OR AS +OFTEN AS NECESSARY WHICH WILL DRAW [the residue] TOGETHER [and +carefully strain or filter through the charcoal]. + + [1] _Sextarii._ Tor. _partes XV_; G.-V. _pondo XV_; + List. _partes XV ... pondo lib.... qui continent + sextarios sex_. One sextarius (a "sixth") equals about + 1-1/2 pint English. + + [2] Pepper. _Piperis uncias IV_--ordinarily our black or + white pepper grains, but in connection with honey, + sweets, and so forth, the term "pepper" may just as well + stand for our allspice, or even for any spicing in + general. + + [3] Charcoal. Still a favorite filterer for liquors. + + List. Apicius is correct in starting his book with this + formula, as all meals were started with this sort of + mixed drink. + + Tor. deviates from the other texts in that he elaborates + on the cooking process. + + +[2] HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS + _CONDITUM MELIZOMUM _[1]_ VIATORIUM_ + +THE WAYFARER'S HONEY REFRESHER (SO CALLED BECAUSE IT GIVES ENDURANCE +AND STRENGTH TO PEDESTRIANS) [2] WITH WHICH TRAVELERS ARE REFRESHED BY +THE WAYSIDE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER: FLAVOR HONEY WITH GROUND PEPPER +AND SKIM. IN THE MOMENT OF SERVING PUT HONEY IN A CUP, AS MUCH AS IS +DESIRED TO OBTAIN THE RIGHT DEGREE OF SWEETNESS, AND MIX SPICED WINE +NOT MORE THAN A NEEDED QUANTITY; ALSO ADD SOME WINE TO THE SPICED +HONEY TO FACILITATE ITS FLOW AND THE MIXING. + + [1] Tor. _Melirhomum_; _non extat_. G.-V. M. + _perpetuum_, i.e., having good keeping qualities. + + [2] Tor. reads thus whereas others apply "endurance" to + the honey itself. The honey could not be preserved + (_perpetuum_) by the addition of pepper. Any addition, + as a matter of fact, would hasten its deterioration + unless the honey were boiled and sealed tight, which the + original takes for granted. + + + +II + + +[3] ROMAN VERMOUTH + _ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM_ [1] + +ROMAN VERMOUTH [or Absinth] IS MADE THUS: ACCORDING TO THE RECIPE OF +CAMERINUM [2] YOU NEED WORMWOOD FROM SANTO [3] FOR ROMAN VERMOUTH OR, +AS A SUBSTITUTE, WORMWOOD FROM THE PONTUS [4] CLEANED AND CRUSHED, 1 +THEBAN OUNCE [5] OF IT, 6 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, 3 EACH OF [nard] +LEAVES, COSTMARY [6] AND SAFFRON AND 18 QUARTS OF ANY KIND OF MILD +WINE. [Filter cold] CHARCOAL IS NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE OF THE +BITTERNESS. + + [1] G.-V. _Apsinthium_. + + [2] The mention of a name in a recipe is very + infrequent. Camerinum is a town in Umbria. + + [3] Now Saintonge, Southern France. + + [4] Black Sea Region. + + [5] Weight of indefinite volume, from Thebae, one of the + several ancient cities by that name. List. thinks it is + an Egyptian ounce, and that the author of the recipe + must be an African. + + [6] Wanting in Tor.; G.-V. _costi scripulos senos_. + + + +III + + +[4] ROSE WINE [1] + _ROSATUM_ + +MAKE ROSE WINE IN THIS MANNER: ROSE PETALS, THE LOWER WHITE PART +REMOVED, SEWED INTO A LINEN BAG AND IMMERSED IN WINE FOR SEVEN DAYS. +THEREUPON ADD A SACK OF NEW PETALS WHICH ALLOW TO DRAW FOR ANOTHER +SEVEN DAYS. AGAIN REMOVE THE OLD PETALS AND REPLACE THEM BY FRESH ONES +FOR ANOTHER WEEK; THEN STRAIN THE WINE THROUGH THE COLANDER. BEFORE +SERVING, ADD HONEY SWEETENING TO TASTE. TAKE CARE THAT ONLY THE BEST +PETALS FREE FROM DEW BE USED FOR SOAKING. + + [1] Used principally as a laxative medicine. List. These + wines compounded of roses and violets move the bowels + strongly. + + +[5] VIOLET WINE + _VIOLATIUM_ + +IN A SIMILAR WAY AS ABOVE LIKE THE ROSE WINE VIOLET WINE IS MADE OF +FRESH VIOLETS, AND TEMPERED WITH HONEY, AS DIRECTED. + + +[6] ROSE WINE WITHOUT [1] ROSES + _ROSATUM SINE ROSA_ + +ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES IS MADE IN THIS FASHION: A PALM LEAF BASKET +FULL OF FRESH CITRUS LEAVES IS IMMERSED IN THE VAT OF NEW WINE BEFORE +FERMENTATION HAS SET IN. AFTER FORTY DAYS RETIRE THE LEAVES, AND, AS +OCCASION ARISES, SWEETEN THE WINE WITH HONEY, AND PASS IT UP FOR ROSE +WINE. + + [1] A substitute. + + + +IV + + +[7] LIBURNIAN OIL + _OLEUM LIBURNICUM_ + +IN ORDER TO MAKE AN OIL SIMILAR TO THE LIBURNIAN OIL PROCEED AS +FOLLOWS: IN SPANISH OIL PUT [the following mixture of] ELECAMPANE, +CYPRIAN RUSH AND GREEN LAUREL LEAVES THAT ARE NOT TOO OLD, ALL OF IT +CRUSHED AND MACERATED AND REDUCED TO A FINE POWDER. SIFT THIS IN AND +ADD FINELY GROUND SALT AND STIR INDUSTRIOUSLY FOR THREE DAYS OR MORE. +THEN ALLOW TO SETTLE. EVERYBODY WILL TAKE THIS FOR LIBURNIAN OIL. [1] + + [1] Like the above a flagrant case of food adulteration. + + + +V + + +[8] TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE + _VINUM EX ATRO CANDIDUM FACIES_ + +PUT BEAN MEAL AND THE WHITES OF THREE EGGS IN A MIXING BOWL. MIX +THOROUGHLY WITH A WHIP AND ADD TO THE WINE, STIRRING FOR A LONG TIME. +THE NEXT DAY THE WINE WILL BE CLEAR [1]. ASHES OF VINES HAVE THE SAME +EFFECT. + + [1] Ex Lister whose version we prefer. He says, _Alias + die erit candidum_ while Tor. adds white salt, saying, + _sal si adieceris candidum_, same as Tac. This is + unusual, although the ancients have at times treated + wine with sea water. + + + +VI + + +[9] TO IMPROVE A BROTH [1] + _DE LIQUAMINE EMENDANDO_ [2] + +IF BROTH HAS CONTRACTED A BAD ODOR, PLACE A VESSEL UPSIDE DOWN AND +FUMIGATE IT WITH LAUREL AND CYPRESS AND BEFORE VENTILATING [3] IT, +POUR THE BROTH IN THIS VESSEL. IF THIS DOES NOT HELP MATTERS [4] AND +IF THE TASTE IS TOO PRONOUNCED, ADD HONEY AND FRESH SPIKENARD [5] TO +IT; THAT WILL IMPROVE IT. ALSO NEW MUST SHOULD BE LIKEWISE EFFECTIVE +[6]. + + [1] List. _Liquamen, id est, garum_. Goll. Fish sauce. + + [2] Tor. _Qui liquamen corruptum corrigatur_. + + [3] Dann. Ventilate it. Goll. Whip the sauce in fresh + air. + + [4] List., G.-V. _si salsum fuerit_--if this makes it + too salty--Tor. _si hoc nihil effecerit_. + + [5] Tor. _novem spicam immittas_; List. _Move spica_; + Goll.-Dann. stir with a whip. + + [6] A classic example of Apician confusion when one + interpreter reads "s" for "f" and "_novem_" for "_move_" + and another reads something else. Tor. is more correct + than the others, but this formula is beyond redemption. + Fate has decreed that ill-smelling broths shall be + discarded. + + + +VII + + +[10] TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME + _UT CARNES SINE SALE QUOVIS TEMPORE RECENTES SINT_ + +COVER FRESH MEAT WITH HONEY, SUSPEND IT IN A VESSEL. USE AS NEEDED; IN +WINTER IT WILL KEEP BUT IN SUMMER IT WILL LAST ONLY A FEW DAYS. COOKED +MEAT MAY BE TREATED LIKEWISE. + + +[11] TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK OR BEEF OR TENDERLOINS + _CALLUM PORCINUM VEL BUBULUM ET UNGUELLAE COCTAE UT DIU DURENT_ + +PLACE THEM IN A PICKLE OF MUSTARD, VINEGAR, SALT AND HONEY, COVERING +MEAT ENTIRELY, AND WHEN READY TO USE YOU'LL BE SURPRISED. + + V. Method still popular today for pickling raw meats. + The originals treat of cooked meats (Tor. _nucula + elixa_; G.-V. _unguellae coctae_; Tac. _nucella cocta_). + Dispensing with the honey, we use more spices, whole + pepper, cloves, bay leaves, also onions and root + vegetables. Sometimes a little sugar and wine is added + to this preparation which the French call _marinade_ and + the Germans _Sauerbraten-Einlage_. + + + +VIII + + +[12] TO MAKE SALT MEAT SWEET + _UT CARNEM SALSAM DULCEM FACIAS_ + +YOU CAN MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET BY FIRST BOILING THEM IN MILK AND THEN +FINISHING THEM IN WATER. + + V. Method still in practice today. Salt mackerel, finnan + haddie, etc., are parboiled in milk prior to being + boiled in water or broiled or fried. + + + +IX + + +[13] TO KEEP FRIED FISH + _UT PISCES FRICTI DIU DURENT_ + +IMMEDIATELY AFTER THEY ARE FRIED POUR HOT VINEGAR OVER THEM. + + Dann. Exactly as we today with fried herring and river + lamprey. + + +[14] TO KEEP OYSTERS + _OSTREA UT DIU DURENT_ + +FUMIGATE A VINEGAR BARREL WITH PITCH [1], WASH IT OUT WITH VINEGAR AND +STACK THE OYSTERS IN IT [2] + + [1] Tor. _vas ascernum_, corrected on margin, _ab + aceto_. List. _vas ab aceto_, which is correct. G.-V. + _lavas ab aceto_; V. the oysters? unthinkable! Besides + it would do no good. + + [2] Goll. Take oysters out of the shell, place in + vinegar barrel, sprinkle with laurel berries, fine salt, + close tight. V. Goll's authority for this version is + not found in our originals. + + V. There is no way to keep live oysters fresh except in + their natural habitat--salt water. Today we pack them in + barrels, feed them with oatmeal, put weights on them--of + no avail. The only way English oysters could have + arrived fresh in Imperial Rome was in specially + constructed bottoms of the galleys. + + + +X + + +[15] MAKING A LITTLE LASER GO A LONG WAY + _UT NUCIA _[1]_ LASERIS TOTO TEMPORE UTARIS_ + +PUT THE LASER [2] IN A SPACIOUS GLASS VESSEL; IMMERSE ABOUT 20 PINE +KERNELS [pignolia nuts] + +IF YOU NEED LASER FLAVOR, TAKE SOME NUTS, CRUSH THEM; THEY WILL IMPART +TO YOUR DISH AN ADMIRABLE FLAVOR. REPLACE THE USED NUTS WITH A LIKE +NUMBER OF FRESH ONES [3] + + [1] List. and G.-V. _uncia_--ounce. Making an ounce of + laser go a long way. Tor. _nucea_; Tac. _nucia_. Lister, + fond of hair-splitting, is irreconcilably opposed to + Tor., and berates Caspar Barthius for defending Tor. + List. _Quam futilis sit in multis labor C. Barthii ut + menda Torini passim sustineat, vel ex hoc loco + intelligere licet: Et enim lege modo uncia pro nucea cum + Humelbergio, & ista omnia glossemata vana sunt._ + + V. both readings, _uncia_ or _nucia_ are permissible, + and make very little difference. We side with Tor. and + Tac. because it takes more than an ounce of laser to + carry out this experiment. + + [2] _Laser_, _laserpitium_, cf. dictionary. + + [3] V. This article illustrates how sparingly the + ancients used the strong and pungent laser flavor [by + some believed to be _asa foetida_] because it was very + expensive, but principally because the Roman cooks + worked economically and knew how to treat spices and + flavors judiciously. This article alone should disperse + for all time all stories of ancient Rome's extravagance + in flavoring and seasoning dishes. It reminds of the + methods used by European cooks to get the utmost use out + of the expensive vanilla bean: they bury the bean in a + can of powdered sugar. They will use the sugar only + which has soon acquired a delicate vanilla perfume, and + will replace the used sugar by a fresh supply. This is + by far a superior method to using the often rank and + adulterated "vanilla extract" readily bottled. It is + more gastronomical and more economical. Most commercial + extracts are synthetic, some injurious. To believe that + any of them impart to the dishes the true flavor desired + is of course ridiculous. The enormous consumption of + such extracts however, is characteristic of our + industrialized barbarism which is so utterly indifferent + to the fine points in food. Today it is indeed hard for + the public to obtain a real vanilla bean. + + Cf. also notes regarding flavoring to Nos. 276-7, 345 + and 385. + + + +XI + + +[16] TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST + _UT DULCIA DE MELLE DIU DURENT_ + +TO MAKE HONEY CAKES THAT WILL KEEP TAKE WHAT THE GREEKS CALL YEAST [1] +AND MIX IT WITH THE FLOUR AND THE HONEY AT THE TIME WHEN MAKING THE +COOKY DOUGH. + + [1] Tor. and Tac. _nechon_; G.-V. _cnecon_; Dann. + _penion_. + + +[17] SPOILED HONEY MADE GOOD + _UT MEL MALUM BONUM FACIAS_ + +HOW BAD HONEY MAY BE TURNED INTO A SALEABLE ARTICLE IS TO MIX ONE PART +OF THE SPOILED HONEY WITH TWO PARTS OF GOOD HONEY. + + List. _indigna fraus_! V. We all agree with Lister that + this is contemptible business. This casts another light + on the ancients' methods of food adulteration. + + +[18] TO TEST SPOILED HONEY + _MEL CORRUPTUM UT PROBES_ + +IMMERSE ELENCAMPANE IN HONEY AND LIGHT IT; IF GOOD, IT WILL BURN +BRIGHTLY. + + + +XII + + +[19] TO KEEP GRAPES + _UVAE UT DIU SERVENTUR_ + +TAKE PERFECT GRAPES FROM THE VINES, PLACE THEM IN A VESSEL AND POUR +RAIN WATER OVER THEM THAT HAS BEEN BOILED DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS +VOLUME. THE VESSEL MUST BE PITCHED AND SEALED WITH PLASTER, AND MUST +BE KEPT IN A COOL PLACE TO WHICH THE SUN HAS NO ACCESS. TREATED IN +THIS MANNER, THE GRAPES WILL BE FRESH WHENEVER YOU NEED THEM. YOU CAN +ALSO SERVE THIS WATER AS HONEY MEAD TO THE SICK. + +ALSO, IF YOU COVER THE GRAPES WITH BARLEY [bran] YOU WILL FIND THEM +SOUND AND UNINJURED. + + V. We keep grapes in cork shavings, bran and saw dust. + + +[20] TO KEEP POMEGRANATES + _UT MALA GRANATA DIU DURENT_ [1] + +STEEP THEM INTO HOT [sea] WATER, TAKE THEM OUT IMMEDIATELY AND HANG +THEM UP. [Tor.] THEY WILL KEEP. + + [1] Tor. _conditura malorum Punicorum_; Tac. _mala + granata_; G.-V. _mala et mala granata_. + + +[21] TO KEEP QUINCES + _UT MALA CYDONIA DIU SERVENTUR_ + +PICK OUT PERFECT QUINCES WITH STEMS [1] AND LEAVES. PLACE THEM IN A +VESSEL, POUR OVER HONEY AND DEFRUTUM [2] AND YOU'LL PRESERVE THEM FOR +A LONG TIME [3]. + + [1] V. Excellent idea, for the stems, if removed, would + leave a wound in the fruit for the air to penetrate and + to start fermentation. Cf. also the next formula. + + [2] G.-V. _defritum_, from _defervitum_; _defrutum_ is + new wine, spiced, boiled down to one half of its volume. + + [3] This precept would not keep the fruit very long + unless protected by a closefitting cover and + sterilization. Cf. No. 24. + + +[22] TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS, APPLES, PLUMS, PEARS AND CHERRIES + _FICUM RECENTEM, MALA, PRUNA, PIRA, CERASIA UT DIU SERVES_ + +SELECT THEM ALL VERY CAREFULLY WITH THE STEMS ON [1] AND PLACE THEM IN +HONEY SO THEY DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER. + + [1] See the preceding formula. + + +[23] TO KEEP CITRON + _CITRIA UT DIU DURENT_ [1] + +PLACE THEM IN A GLASS [2] VESSEL WHICH IS SEALED WITH PLASTER AND +SUSPENDED. + + [1] Tor. _conditura malorum Medicorum quae et citria + dicuntur_. V. Not quite identified. Fruit coming from + Asia Minor, Media or Persia, one of the many varieties + of citrus fruit. Probably citron because of their size. + Goll. Lemon-apples; Dann. lemons (oranges). List. + _Scilicet mala, quae Dioscorides Persica quoque & Medica, + & citromala, Plinius item Assyria appellari dicit_. + + [2] G.-V. _vas vitreum_; Tac. and Tor. _vas citrum_; V. + a glass vessel could not be successfully sealed with + plaster paris, and the experiment would fail; cf. note 3 + to No. 21. + + +[24] TO KEEP MULBERRIES + _MORA UT DIU DURENT_ + +MULBERRIES, IN ORDER TO KEEP THEM, MUST BE LAID INTO THEIR OWN JUICE +MIXED WITH NEW WINE [boiled down to one half] IN A GLASS VESSEL AND +MUST BE WATCHED ALL THE TIME [so that they do not spoil]. + + V. This and the foregoing formulae illustrate the + ancients' attempts at preserving foods, and they betray + their ignorance of "processing" by heating them in + hermetically sealed vessels, the principle of which was + not discovered until 1810 by Appert which started the + now gigantic industry of canning. + + +[25] TO KEEP POT HERBS + [_H_]_OLERA UT DIU SERVENTUR_ + +PLACE SELECTED POT HERBS, NOT TOO MATURE, IN A PITCHED VESSEL. + + +[26] TO PRESERVE SORREL OR SOUR DOCK + _LAPAE _[1]_ UT DIU SERVENTUR_ + +TRIM AND CLEAN [the vegetable] PLACE THEM TOGETHER SPRINKLE MYRTLE +BERRIES BETWEEN, COVER WITH HONEY AND VINEGAR. + +ANOTHER WAY: PREPARE MUSTARD HONEY AND VINEGAR ALSO SALT AND COVER +THEM WITH THE SAME. + + [1] The kind of vegetable to be treated here has not + been sufficiently identified. List. and G.-V. + _rapae_--turnips--from _rapus_, seldom _rapa_,--a rape, + turnip, navew. Tac. and Tor. _Lapae_ (_lapathum_), kind + of sorrel, monk's rhubarb, dock. Tor. explaining at + length: _conditura Rumicis quod lapathon Graeci, Latini + Lapam quoque dicunt_. + + V. Tor. is correct, or nearly so. Turnips, in the first + place, are not in need of any special method of + preservation. They keep very well in a cool, + well-ventilated place; in fact they would hardly keep + very long if treated in the above manner. These + directions are better applied to vegetables like dock or + monk's rhubarb. Lister, taking Humelbergii word for it, + accepts "turnips" as the only truth; but he has little + occasion to assail Torinus as he does: _Torinus lapam + legit, & nullibi temeritatem suam atque inscientiam + magis ostendit._ + + Now, if Torinus, according to Lister, "nowhere displays + more nerve and ignorance" we can well afford to trust + Torinus in cases such as this. + + +[27] TO KEEP TRUFFLES + _TUBERA UT DIU SERVENTUR_ + +THE TRUFFLES WHICH MUST NOT BE TOUCHED BY WATER ARE PLACED ALTERNATELY +IN DRY SAWDUST; SEAL THE VESSEL WITH PLASTER AND DEPOSIT IT IN A COOL +PLACE. + + Dann. Clean [peel] the truffles ... in another vessel + place the peelings, seal the vessels.... V. this would + be the ruin of the truffles, unless they were + "processed" in the modern way. Our originals have + nothing that would warrant this interpretation. + + +[28] TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES + _DURACINA PERSICA UT DIU DURENT_ + +SELECT THE BEST AND PUT THEM IN BRINE. THE NEXT DAY REMOVE THEM AND +RINSING THEM CAREFULLY SET THEM IN PLACE IN A VESSEL, SPRINKLE WITH +SALT AND SATURY AND IMMERSE IN VINEGAR. + + + +XIII + + +[29] SALTS FOR MANY [ILLS] + _SALES CONDITOS AD MULTA_ + +THESE SPICED SALTS ARE USED AGAINST INDIGESTION, TO MOVE THE BOWELS, +AGAINST ALL ILLNESS, AGAINST PESTILENCE AS WELL AS FOR THE PREVENTION +OF COLDS. THEY ARE VERY GENTLE INDEED AND MORE HEALTHFUL THAN YOU +WOULD EXPECT. [Tor. MAKE THEM IN THIS MANNER]: 1 LB. OF COMMON SALT +GROUND, 2 LBS. OF AMMONIAC SALT, GROUND [List. AND G.-V. 3 OZS. WHITE +PEPPER, 2 OZS. GINGER] 1 OZ. [Tor. 1-1/2 OZ.] OF AMINEAN BRYONY, 1 OF +THYME SEED AND 1 OF CELERY SEED [Tor. 1-1/2 OZ.] IF YOU DON'T WANT TO +USE CELERY SEED TAKE INSTEAD 3 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] 3 OZS. OF +ORIGANY, 1 OZ. OF SAFFRON [List. and G.-V. ROCKET] 3 OZS. OF BLACK +PEPPER [1] 1-1/2 OZS. ROCKET SEED, 2 OZS. OF MARJORAM [List. and G.-V. +CRETAN HYSSOP] 2 OZS. OF NARD LEAVES, 2 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] AND 2 +OZS. OF ANISE SEED. + + [1] In view of the white pepper as directed above, this + seems superfluous. White pepper and ginger omitted by + Tor. + + This is one of the few medical formulae found in Apicius. + + Edward Brandt, _op. cit._, Apiciana No. 29, points out + the similarity of this formula with that of the + physician, Marcellus, who lived at Rome under Nero, + Marcell. med. 30, 51. + + + +XIV + + +[30] TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES + _OLIVAS VIRIDES SERVARE_ + +TO KEEP OLIVES, FRESH FROM THE TREE, IN A MANNER ENABLING YOU TO MAKE +OIL FROM THEM ANY TIME YOU DESIRE JUST PLACE THEM [in brine]. [1] +HAVING BEEN KEPT THUS FOR SOME TIME THE OLIVES MAY BE USED AS IF THEY +HAD JUST COME OFF THE TREE FRESH IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE GREEN OIL OF +THEM. + + [1] The original does not state the liquid in which the + olives are to be placed. + + Hum. _in illud, legendum puto, in muriam_. + + Hum. is correct. Olives are preserved in brine to this + day. + + Schuch's version of this formula (his No. 27) follows + our No. 28, together with his own No. 28, To Keep + Damascene Plums [etc.] which is wanting in List., G.-V., + and all the earlier editions because it is from the + codex Salmasianus and will be found among the Excerpts + of Vinidarius at the end of the Apician recipes. + + + +XV + + [CUMINATUM. Hum., List. and G.-V.--Tac. and Tor. at the + end of Book I.] + + + +XVI + + +[31] LASER FLAVOR + _LASERATUM_ + +[Tor.] LASER IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: LASER (WHICH IS ALSO CALLED +LASERPITIUM BY THE ROMANS, WHILE THE GREEKS CALL IT SILPHION) FROM +CYRENE [1] OR FROM PARTHIA [2] IS DISSOLVED IN LUKEWARM MODERATELY +ACID BROTH; OR PEPPER, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR +AND BROTH [are ground, compounded and dissolved together]. + + [1] Cyrene, a province in Africa, reputed for its fine + flavored laser. + + [2] Parthia, Asiatic country, still supplying _asa + f{oe}tida_. + + The African root furnishing laser was exterminated by + the demand for it. Cf. Laser in Index. + + +[32] ANOTHER [LASER] + _ALITER_ + +[ANOTHER LASER FLAVOR WHICH TAKES] PEPPER, CARAWAY, ANISE, PARSLEY, +DRY MINT, THE LEAVES [1] OF SILPHIUM, MALOBATHRUM [2] INDIAN +SPIKENARD, A LITTLE COSTMARY, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. + + [1] Tor. _Silphij folium_; List. _Sylphium, folium_; + G.-V. _Silfi, folium_, the latter two interpretations + meaning _silphium_ (laser) _and leaves_ (either nard or + bay leaves) while both Tor. and Tac. (_silfii folium_) + mean the leaves of _silphium_ plant. + + [2] _Malobathrum_, _malobatrum_, _malabathrum_--leaves + of an Indian tree, wild cinnamon. + + + +XVII + + +[33] WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES + _{OE}NOGARUM _[1]_ IN TUBERA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. + +ANOTHER WAY: THYME, SATURY, PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL. + + [1] Also _Elaeogarum_. + + V. Directions wanting whether the above ingredients are + to be added to the already prepared _garum_, which see + in dictionary. Gollmer gives the following direction for + _garum_: Boil a _sextarium_ of anchovies and 3 + _sextarii_ of good wine until it is thick _puree_. + Strain this through a hair sieve and keep it in glass + flask for future use. This formula, according to Goll. + should have followed our No. 9; but we find no authority + for it in the original. + + _Oenogarum_ proper would be a _garum_ prepared with + wine, but in this instance it is the broth in which the + truffles were cooked that is to be flavored with the + above ingredients. There is no need and no mention of + _garum_ proper. Thus prepared it might turn out to be a + sensible sauce for truffles in the hands of a good + practitioner. + + Note the etymology of the word "garum," now serving as a + generic name for "sauce" which originally stood for a + compound of the fish _garus_. + + Cf. _Garum_ in index. + + + +XVIII + + +[34] OXYPORUM + _OXYPORUM_ + +[Tor. OXYPORUM (WHICH SIGNIFIES "EASY PASSAGE") SO NAMED BECAUSE OF +ITS EFFECT, TAKES] 2 OZS. OF CUMIN, 1 OZ. OF GINGER [List. 1 OZ. OF +GREEN RUE] 6 SCRUPLES OF SALTPETER, A DOZEN SCRUPLES OF PLUMP DATES, 1 +OZ. OF PEPPER AND 11 [List. 9] OZS. OF HONEY. THE CUMIN MAY BE EITHER +AETHIOPIAN, SYRIAN OR LYBIAN, MUST BE FIRST SOAKED IN VINEGAR, BOILED +DOWN DRY AND POUNDED. AFTERWARDS ADD YOUR HONEY. THIS COMPOUND, AS +NEEDED, IS USED AS OXYPORUM. + + Cf. No. 111, A Harmless Salad. + + Bran. _op. cit._, p. 25-6, of Greek origin. + + + +XIX + + +[35] HYPOTRIMA [1] + _HYPOTRIMA_ + +[Tor. HYPOTRIMA, MEANING IN LATIN A PERFECT MESS OF POTAGE, REQUIRES +THIS]: PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT, PIGNOLIA NUTS, RAISINS, DATE WINE, +SWEET CHEESE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, MUST OR REDUCED MUST +[2] + + [1] List. and G.-V. _Hypotrimma_. + + V. This formula, lacking detailed instructions, is of + course perfectly obscure, and it would be useless to + debate over it. + + [2] Tor. and Tac. _cariotam_; Sch. _cariotum_; List. and + G.-V. _car{oe}num_. This (_carenum_) is new wine boiled + down one half of its volume. _Cariotum_ is a palm wine + or date wine. + + + +XX + + +[36] OXYGARUM, AN AID TO DIGESTION + _OXYGARUM DIGESTIBILE_ + +[Tor. OXYGARUM (WHICH IS SIMILAR TO GARUM OR RATHER AN ACID SAUCE) IS +DIGESTIBLE AND IS COMPOSED OF]: 1/2 OZ. OF PEPPER, 3 SCRUPLES OF +GALLIC SILPHIUM, 6 SCRUPLES OF CARDAMOM, 6 OF CUMIN, 1 SCRUPLE OF +LEAVES, 6 SCRUPLES OF DRY MINT. THESE [ingredients] ARE BROKEN SINGLY +AND CRUSHED AND [made into a paste] BOUND BY HONEY. WHEN THIS WORK IS +DONE [or whenever you desire] ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR [to taste]. + + Cf. Note to No. 33. + + +[37] ANOTHER [OXYGARUM] [1] + _ALITER_ + +1 OZ. EACH OF PEPPER, PARSLEY, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, MIX WITH HONEY. WHEN +DONE ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR. + + [1] Wanting in Torinus. + + + +XXI + + +[38] MORTARIA [1] + _MORTARIA_ + +MORTARIA ARE PREPARATIONS MADE IN THE MORTAR. PLACE IN THE MORTAR +[Tor.] MINT, RUE, CORIANDER AND FENNEL, ALL FRESH AND GREEN AND CRUSH +THEM FINE. LOVAGE, PEPPER, HONEY AND BROTH [2] AND VINEGAR [3] TO BE +ADDED WHEN THE WORK IS DONE. + + Ex Tor. first sentence wanting in other texts. + + [1] List. and G.-V. _moretaria_, from _moretum_. + + [2] Dann. calls this "_Kalte Schale_" which as a rule is + a drink or a cold refreshing soup, popular on the + Continent in hot weather. Not a bad interpretation if + instead of the broth the original called for wine or + fruit juices. + + V. _Mortaria_ are ingredients crushed in the mortar, + ready to be used in several combinations, similar to + the ground fine herbs, _remoulade_, in French cuisine + that may be used for various purposes, principally for + cold green sauces. + + [3] Wanting in Tor. + + + +[XV] + + +[39] CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH + _CUMINATUM IN OSTREA ET CONCHYLIA_ + +[Tor. CUMIN SAUCE (SO CALLED BECAUSE CUMIN IS ITS CHIEF INGREDIENT) +FOR OYSTERS AND CLAMS IS MADE OF] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, +MALABAR LEAVES, QUITE SOME CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, AND BROTH. + + +[40] ANOTHER [CUMIN SAUCE] [1] + _ALITER_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, PLENTY OF CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR AND +BROTH. + + [1] wanting in List. + + The cumin sauce formulae are under chap. XV in G.-V., + following our No. 30. + + +END OF BOOK I + +_EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: COLANDER FOR STRAINING WINE + +The intricate design of the perforation denotes that this strainer was +used for straining wine. Various other strainers of simpler design, +with and without handles, were used in the kitchen and bakery. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 77602; Field M., 24307.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book II + + + + +{Illustration: SLAVES OPERATING A HAND-MILL + +Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.} + + + + +{Illustration: FRUIT OR DESSERT BOWL + +Round bowl, fluted symmetrically, with three claw feet, resting on +molded bases. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74000; Field M., 24028.} + + + + +BOOK II. MINCES + +_Lib. II. Sarcoptes_ [1] + + + CHAP. I. FORCEMEATS, SAUSAGE, MEAT PUDDINGS, MEAT LOAVES. + CHAP. II. HYDROGARUM, SPELT PUDDING AND ROUX [2]. + CHAP. III. SOW'S MATRIX, BLOOD SAUSAGE. + CHAP. IV. LUCANIAN SAUSAGE. + CHAP. V. SAUSAGE. + + [1] Tor. _Artoptes_; Tac. _Artoptus_. This may have been + derived from _artopta_--a vessel in which bread and + pudding are baked. However, Sarcoptes is the better + word, which is Greek, meaning "chopped meats." + + [2] Tac. _Ambolatum_, and so in Tor. p. 15, _De + Ambolato_. Cap. IIII. cf. our note following No. 58. + + + +I + + +[41] MINCED DISHES + _ISICIA_ + +THERE ARE MANY KINDS OF MINCED DISHES [1] SEAFOOD MINCES [2] ARE MADE +OF SEA-ONION, OR SEA CRAB-FISH, LOBSTER, CUTTLE-FISH, INK FISH, SPINY +LOBSTER, SCALLOPS AND OYSTERS [3]. THE FORCEMEAT IS SEASONED WITH +LOVAGE [4], PEPPER, CUMIN AND LASER ROOT. + + [1] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. V. Forcemeats, + minced meats, sausage. Tor. _Hysitia_, from _Isicia_. + This term is derived from _insicium_, from _salsicium_, + from _salsum insicium_, cut salt meat; old French + _salcisse_, _saulcisse_, modern French _saucisse_, + meaning sausage. This is a confirmation of the meaning + of the word _salsum_--meaning primarily salt meat, bacon + in particular. It has survived in modern French + terminology in _sales_ more specially _petits + sales_--small rashers of bacon. _Salsum_ has caused much + confusion in some later formulae. Cf. notes to Nos. 148, + 150, 152. + + [2] V. fish forcemeats, fish balls, fish cakes and + similar preparations. + + [3] Scallops and oysters wanting in List. and G.-V. + + [4] Wanting in List. + + +[42] CUTTLE-FISH CROQUETTES + _ISICIA DE LOLLIGINE_ [1] + +THE MEAT IS SEPARATED FROM BONES, SKIN [and refuse] CHOPPED FINE AND +POUNDED IN THE MORTAR. SHAPE THE FORCEMEAT INTO NEAT CROQUETTES [2] +AND COOK THEM IN LIQUAMEN [3]. + +THEY ARE DISPLAYED NICELY ON A LARGE DISH. + + V. This formula plainly calls for fish balls braised or + stewed in broth. Ordinarily we would boil the fish first + and then separate the meat from the bones, shred or chop + it fine, bind with cream sauce, flour and eggs; some add + potatoes as a binder, and fry. + + [1] G.-V. _lolligine_; Tor. _loligine_, which is + correctly spelled. + + [2] Tac. and Tor. _in pulmento tundes_. G.-V. _fulmento_ + which is wrong. _Pulmentum_, abbreviated for + _pulpamentum_, from _pulpa_. It means a fleshy piece of + fish or meat, a tid-bit. + + [3] The original says _in liquamine fricatur_--fry in + l., which is impossible in the sense of the word, + frying. Either "frying" here stands for cooking, + stewing, braising, poaching, or else the so mysterious + _liquamen_ must here mean deep fat. Most likely these + fish forcemeat balls were fried in olive oil. Cf. {Rx} + No. 46. + + +[43] LOBSTER OR CRABMEAT CROQUETTES + _ISICIA DE SCILLIS VEL DE CAMMARIS AMPLIS_ [1] + +THE SHELLS OF THE LOBSTERS OR CRABS [which are cooked] ARE BROKEN, THE +MEAT EXTRACTED FROM THE HEAD AND POUNDED IN THE MORTAR WITH PEPPER AND +THE BEST KIND OF BROTH. THIS PULP [is shaped into neat little cakes +which are fried] AND SERVED UP NICELY [2]. + + [1] _Scilla_ or _squilla_, squill, sea-onion, also a + crab, _cammarus amplus_, large lobster, langouste, spiny + lobster. + + [2] The original omits the mode of cooking the fish. A + case where it is taken for granted that the shellfish is + boiled in water alive. The broth (_liquamen_) is a thick + fish sauce in this case, serving as a binder for the + meat, conforming to present methods. + + Dann. Fill this into sausage casing. There is no + authority for this. + + +[44] LIVER KROMESKIS + _OMENTATA_ [1] + +OMENTATA ARE MADE IN THIS MANNER: [lightly] FRY PORK LIVER, REMOVE +SKIN AND SINEWS FIRST [2]. CRUSH PEPPER AND RUE IN A MORTAR WITH [a +little] BROTH, THEN ADD THE LIVER, POUND AND MIX. THIS PULP SHAPE INTO +SMALL SAUSAGE, WRAP EACH IN CAUL AND LAUREL LEAVES AND HANG THEM UP TO +BE SMOKED. WHENEVER YOU WANT AND WHEN READY TO ENJOY THEM TAKE THEM +OUT OF THE SMOKE, FRY THEM AGAIN, AND ADD GRAVY [3]. + + [1] From _omentum_--caul, the membrane enclosing the + bowels. Hence "omen." Minced meats wrapped in caul and + fried are kromeskis in kitchen terminology. + + [2] First--an after thought so characteristic in + culinary literature, proof enough that this formula + originated in a kitchen. The _ante tamen_ of the + original belongs to this sentence, not to the next, as + the editors have it. + + [3] Wanting in G.-V. The original continues without + interruption to the next, an entirely new formula. + + +[45] [BRAIN SAUSAGE] + [_ISICIA DE CEREBELLIS_] [1] + +PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND +RUB; ADD COOKED BRAINS AND MIX DILIGENTLY SO THAT THERE BE NO LUMPS. +INCORPORATE FIVE EGGS AND CONTINUE MIXING WELL TO HAVE A GOOD +FORCEMEAT WHICH YOU MAY THIN WITH BROTH. SPREAD THIS OUT IN A METAL +PAN, COOK, AND WHEN COOKED [cold] UNMOULD IT ONTO A CLEAN TABLE. CUT +INTO HANDY SIZE. [Now prepare a sauce] PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, +LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, CRUSH, MIX WITH BROTH PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN, BOIL, +THICKEN AND STRAIN. HEAT THE PIECES OF BRAIN PUDDING IN THIS SAUCE +THOROUGHLY, DISH THEM UP, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER, IN A MUSHROOM DISH +[2]. + + [1] The Original has no title for this dish. + + [2] List. and G.-V. here start the next formula, but + Tor. continues without interruption. Cf. Note 2 to No. + 46. + + +[46] A DISH OF SCALLOPS + _ISICIA EX SPONDYLIS_ [1] + +[Lightly] COOK SCALLOPS [or the firm part of oysters] REMOVE THE HARD +AND OBJECTIONABLE PARTS, MINCE THE MEAT VERY FINE, MIX THIS WITH +COOKED SPELT AND EGGS, SEASON WITH PEPPER, [shape into croquettes and +wrap] IN CAUL, FRY, UNDERLAY A RICH FISH SAUCE AND SERVE AS A +DELICIOUS ENTREE [2]. + + [1] Sch. _sfondilis_; G.-V. _sphondylis_; List. + _spongiolis_. According to Lister, this is a dish of + mushrooms, but he is wrong. He directs to remove sinews + when mushrooms haven't any, but shellfish have. Torinus + is correct. Gollmer makes the same mistake, believing + _spondyli_ to be identical with _spongioli_. He and + Danneil take _elixata_ for "choice" when this plainly + means "cooked." If one were not sure of either word, the + nature of the subject would leave no room for any doubt. + Cf. note 1 to Nos. 115-121. + + [2] We may find a reason for the combination of these + last three distinctly different formulae into one article + in the following explanation. It is possible that these + dishes were served together as one course, even on one + platter, thus constituting a single dish, as it were. + Such a dish would strongly resemble platters of + "_fritures_" and "_fritto misto_" (mixed fried foods) + esteemed in France and Italy. We, too, have "Shore + Dinners" and other "Combination Platters" with lobster, + crabs, scallops, shrimps, mushrooms, tomatoes--each + article prepared separately, but when served together + will form an integral part of ONE dish. + + The above formulae, though somewhat incomplete, are good + and gastronomically correct. A combination of these + _isicia_ such as we here suggest would be entirely + feasible and would in fact make a dish of great + refinement, taxing the magiric artist's skill to the + utmost. We would class them among the _entremets chauds_ + which are often used on a buffet table or as hot _hors + d'{oe}uvres_. + + +[47] ANOTHER KIND OF KROMESKIS [1] + _ALITER ISICIA OMENTATA_ + +FINELY CUT PULP [of pork] IS GROUND WITH THE HEARTS [2] OF WINTER +WHEAT AND DILUTED WITH WINE. FLAVOR LIGHTLY WITH PEPPER AND BROTH AND +IF YOU LIKE ADD A MODERATE QUANTITY OF [myrtle] BERRIES ALSO CRUSHED, +AND AFTER YOU HAVE ADDED CRUSHED NUTS AND PEPPER [3] SHAPE THE +FORCEMEAT INTO SMALL ROLLS, WRAP THESE IN CAUL, FRY, AND SERVE WITH +WINE GRAVY. + + [1] Wanting in Lister. + + [2] Fine wheat flour, cream of wheat. + + [3] Either pepper corns or allspice. + + The original leaves us in doubt as to the kind of meat + to be used, if any. + + + +II + + +[48] DUMPLINGS OF PHEASANT + _ISICIA PLENA_ + +[Lightly roast choice] FRESH PHEASANTS [cut them into dice and mix +these with a] STIFF FORCEMEAT MADE OF THE FAT AND THE TRIMMINGS OF THE +PHEASANT, SEASON WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND REDUCED WINE, SHAPE INTO +CROQUETTES OR SPOON DUMPLINGS, AND POACH IN HYDROGARUM [water seasoned +with garum, or even plain salt water]. + + +[49] DUMPLINGS AND HYDROGARUM + _HYDROGARATA ISICIA_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND JUST A SUSPICION OF PELLITORY, MOISTEN WITH +STOCK AND WELL WATER, ALLOW IT TO DRAW, PLACE IT IN A SAUCE PAN, BOIL +IT DOWN, AND STRAIN. POACH YOUR LITTLE DUMPLINGS OF FORCEMEAT IN THIS +LIQUOR AND WHEN THEY ARE DONE SERVE IN A DISH FOR ISICIA, TO BE SIPPED +AT THE TABLE. + + +[50] CHICKEN FORCEMEAT + _ISICIA DE PULLO_ + +[Raw] CHICKEN MEAT, 1 LB. OF DARNEL [1] MEAL, ONE QUARTER PINT OF +STOCK AND ONE HALF OUNCE OF PEPPER. + + [1] Tor. _lolae floris_; Hum.-List. and G.-V. _olei + floris_--virgin olive oil?--first choice flour? Goll. + olive (violet?) flowers; Dann. Olive oil. + + The suggestion of oil is plausible because of the lack + of fat in chicken meat, but the quantity--1 lb.--is out + of question. Moreover, the binder would be lacking. This + is found in the Torinus rendering. + + His _lolae floris_ should read _lolii_--from + _lolium_--darnel rye grass or ray grass which was + supposed to have intoxicating qualities, injurious to + the eye sight.--Ovid and Plautus. The seeds of this + grass were supposed to possess narcotic properties but + recent researches have cast doubt upon this theory. + + A little butter, fresh cream and eggs are the proper + ingredients for chicken forcemeat. Any kind of flour for + binding the forcemeat would cheapen the dish. Yet some + modern forcemeats (sausage) contain as much as fifty + percent of some kind of meal. The most effective is that + of the soya bean which is not starchy. + + +[51] CHICKEN BROTH ANOTHER STYLE + _ALITER DE PULLO_ + +CHICKEN MEAT, 31 PEPPERCORNS CRUSHED, 1 CHOENIX [1] FULL OF THE VERY +BEST STOCK, A LIKE AMOUNT OF BOILED MUST AND ELEVEN MEASURES [2] OF +WATER. [Put this in a sauce pan] PLACE IT UPON THE FIRE TO SEETH AND +EVAPORATE SLOWLY. + + [1] V. 2 _sextarii_; Tor. _ch{oe}nicem, cenlicem_; List. + _calicem_. + + [2] _ch{oe}nices_?--left in doubt. + + This seems to be a chicken broth, or essence for a sauce + or perhaps a medicine. Torinus mentions the chicken + meat, the others do not. + + The original without interruption continues to describe + the _isicium simplex_ which has nothing to do with the + above. + + +[52] PLAIN DUMPLING WITH BROTH + _ISICIUM SIMPLEX_ + +TO 1 ACETABULUM [1] OF STOCK [2] ADD 7 OF WATER, A LITTLE GREEN +CELERY, A LITTLE SPOONFUL OF GROUND PEPPER, AND BOIL THIS WITH THE +SAUSAGE MEAT OR DUMPLINGS. IF YOU INTEND TAKING THIS TO MOVE THE +BOWELS THE SEDIMENT SALTS [3] OF HYDROGARUM HAVE TO BE ADDED [4]. + + [1] A measure, 15 Attic drachms. + + [2] _liquamen_. + + [3] Tor. _pectines, alias peces hydrogaro conditi_; + List. _sales_; G.-V. _faeces_. + + [4] V. The formula is unintelligible, like No. 52 and + others, perhaps just another example of medicinal + cookery, dishes not only intended to nourish the body + but to cure also certain ills. Authors like Hannah + Wolley (The Queen-like Closet, London, 1675) and as late + as the middle of the 18th century pride themselves in + giving such quasi-Apician formulae. + + +[53] [Rank of] DISHES + _ISICIA_ + +[Entrees of] PEACOCK OCCUPY THE FIRST RANK, PROVIDED THEY BE DRESSED +IN SUCH MANNER THAT THE HARD AND TOUGH PARTS BE TENDER. THE SECOND +PLACE [in the estimation of the Gourmets] HAVE DISHES MADE OF RABBIT +[1] THIRD SPINY LOBSTER [2] FOURTH COMES CHICKEN AND FIFTH YOUNG PIG. + + [1] List. and G.-V. Pheasant. + + [2] Wanting in the above. Dann. Crane fourth. + + _Isicia_, like in the foregoing formula, commences to + become a generic term for "dishes." + + +[54] POTTED ENTREES + _ISICIA AMULATA AB AHENO_ [1] + +GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, VERY LITTLE SILPHIUM, A PINCH OF +GINGER AND A TRIFLE OF HONEY AND A LITTLE STOCK. [Put on the fire, +and when boiling] ADD THE ISICIA [sausage, meat balls and so forth] TO +THIS BROTH AND COOK THOROUGHLY. FINALLY THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX +[2] BY SOWING IT IN SLOWLY AND STIRRING FROM THE BOTTOM UP [3]. + + [1] Tor. _multa ab alieno_; Brandt _[a]mul[a]ta ab + aheno_; List. _amylata_--French: _lies_. _Ab aheno_--out + of the pot. + + [2] French, for a mixture of wheat or rice flour with + fats or liquids to thicken fluids. _Amylum_, or _amulum_ + which hereafter will occur frequently in the original + does not cover the ground as well as the French term + _roux_. The quality of the "binder" depends upon the + material in hand. Sometimes the fat and flour are + parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the + flour is diluted with water and used in that form. + + [3] List. and G.-V. _sorbendum_; Tor. _subruendum_. + + +[55] ANOTHER [THICK ENTREE GRAVY] + _ALITER_ + +GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND +WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED +DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO +THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1] +CONCENTRATE WHICH THE ROMANS CALL "COLOR" [2]. NOW THICKEN THE GRAVY +WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE. + + [1] Tor. _cammarum_, which should read _caricarum_--wine + of Carica figs. + + [2] V. the Roman equivalent for "_singe_," "monkey," + "_Affe_,"--(the _vulgo_ French is literally translated + into and in actual use in other languages) caramel color + made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable + appearance. Cf. No. 73. + + The reference by the original to "which the Romans call + 'color'" indicates, according to Brandt, that this + formula is NOT of ROMAN origin but probably a + translation into Latin from a Greek cookery book. + + This is an interesting suggestion, and it could be + elaborated on to say that the entire Apicius is NOT of + Roman origin. But why should the Greeks who in their + balmy days were so far in advance of Rome in culinary + matters go there for such information? + + It is more likely that this reference to Rome comes from + the Italian provinces or the colonies, regions which + naturally would look to Rome for guidance in such + matters. + + +[56] ANOTHER AMULATUM + _AMULATUM ALITER_ + +DISJOINT A CHICKEN AND BONE IT. PLACE THE PIECES IN A STEW PAN WITH +LEEKS, DILL AND SALT [water or stock] WHEN WELL DONE ADD PEPPER AND +CELERY SEED, THICKEN WITH RICE [1] ADD STOCK, A DASH OF RAISIN WINE OR +MUST, STIR WELL, SERVE WITH THE ENTREES. + + [1] G.-V. _oryzam_; Tor. ditto (and on margin) _oridam_; + Hum. _oridiam legendum orindam_--a kind of bread. Dann. + and Goll. rice flour. + + In a general way the ancient formula corresponds exactly + to our present chicken fricassee. + + +[57] SPELT OR FARINA PUDDING + _APOTHERMUM_ + +BOIL SPELT WITH [Tor. PIGNOLIA] NUTS AND PEELED ALMONDS [1] [G.-V. +AND] IMMERSED IN [boiling] WATER AND WASHED WITH WHITE CLAY SO THAT +THEY APPEAR PERFECTLY WHITE, ADD RAISINS, [flavor with] CONDENSED WINE +OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH CRUSHED [2] [nuts, +fruit, bread or cake crumbs] SPRINKLED OVER IT [3]. + + [1] V. We peel almonds in the same manner; the white + clay treatment is new to us. + + G.-V. and--which is confusing. + + [2] The original: _confractum_--crushed, but what? G.-V. + pepper, for which there is neither authority nor reason. + A wine sauce would go well with it or crushed fruit. + List. and Goll. Breadcrumbs. + + [3] This is a perfectly good pudding--one of the very + few desserts in Apicius. With a little sweetening + (supplied probably by the condensed wine) and some + grated lemon for flavor it is quite acceptable as a + dessert. + + +[58] DE AMBOLATO CAP. IIII + + Ex Torinus, not mentioned by the other editors. The + sense of this word is not clear. It must be a recipe or + a chapter the existence of which was known to Torinus, + for he says: "This entire chapter is wanting in our + copy." + + + +III + + +[59] A DISH OF SOW'S MATRIX + _VULVULAE BOTELLI_ [1] + +ENTREES [2] OF SOW'S MATRIX [3] ARE MADE THUS: CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN +WITH TWO SMALL HEADS OF LEEK, PEELED, ADD TO THIS PULP RUE, BROTH [and +the sow's matrix or fresh pork] CHOP, [or crush in mortar very fine] +THEN ADD TO THIS [forcemeat] INCORPORATING WELL PEPPER GRAINS AND +[pine] NUTS [4] FILL THE CASING [5] AND BOIL IN WATER [with] OIL AND +BROTH [for seasoning] AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL. + + [1] G.-V. _Vulvulae Botelli_; Sch. _Vulvulae isiciata_; + Tor. _De Vulvulis et botellis_. See note No. 3. + + [2] V. "_Entrees_" out of respect for the ancients who + used them as such; today we would class such dishes + among the "_hors d'{oe}uvres chauds_." + + [3] V. _Vulvula_, dim. for _vulva_, sow's matrix. Cf. + _vulva_ in dictionary. Possible, also possible that + _volva_ is meant--a meat roll, a croquette. + + [4] V. Combinations of chopped nuts and pork still in + vogue today; we use the green pistachios. + + [5] V. The casings which were filled with this forcemeat + may have been the sow's matrices, also caul. The + original is vague on the point. + + +[60] LITTLE SAUSAGE + _BOTELLUM_ [1] + +BOTELLUM IS MADE OF [2] HARD BOILED YOLKS OF EGG [3] CHOPPED PIGNOLIA +NUTS, ONION AND LEEKS, RAW GROUND PINE [4] FINE PEPPER, STUFF IN +CASINGS AND COOK IN BROTH AND WINE [5]. + + [1] V. _Botelli_, or _botuli_, are sausage of various + kind; (French, Boudin, English, Pudding). Originally + made of raw blood, they are in fact, miniature blood + sausage. The absence of meat in the present formula + makes me believe that it is not complete, though hard + boiled yolk when properly seasoned and mixed with the + right amount of fat, make a tasty forcemeat for sausage. + + [2] Tor. _Botellum sic fades ex oui_; Sch. and G.-V. + _sex ovi_--the number of eggs is immaterial. + + [3] Dann. Calf's Sweetbreads. + + [4] Goll. _Thus crudum_--raw blood. _Thus_ or _tus_ is + either frankincense or the herb, ground-pine. Dann. + Rosemary. Hum. _Thus crudum lege jus crudum_--jus or + broth which would make the forcemeat soft. There is no + reason for changing "_thus_" into "_jus_!" + + [5] G.-V. _Adicies liquamen et vinum, et sic coques_. + Tor. & _vino decoquas_. + + + +IV + + +[61] LUCANIAN SAUSAGE + _LUCANICAE_ + +LUCANIAN SAUSAGE [or meat pudding] ARE MADE SIMILAR TO THE ABOVE: +CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, SAVORY, RUE, PARSLEY, CONDIMENT, LAUREL BERRIES +AND BROTH; MIX WITH FINELY CHOPPED [fresh Pork] AND POUND WELL WITH +BROTH. TO THIS MIXTURE, BEING RICH, ADD WHOLE PEPPER AND NUTS. WHEN +FILLING CASINGS CAREFULLY PUSH THE MEAT THROUGH. HANG SAUSAGE UP TO +SMOKE. + + V. Lister's interesting remarks about the makers of + these sausages are given in the dictionary. Cf. Longano. + + + +V + + +[62] SAUSAGE + _FARCIMINA_ + +POUND EGGS AND BRAINS [eggs raw, brains cooked] PINE NUTS [chopped +fine] PEPPER [whole] BROTH AND A LITTLE LASER WITH WHICH FILL THE +CASINGS. FIRST PARBOIL THE SAUSAGE THEN FRY THEM AND SERVE. + + V. The directions are vague enough, but one may + recognize in them our modern brain sausage. + + +[63] ANOTHER SAUSAGE + _ALITER_ + +WORK COOKED SPELT AND FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PORK TOGETHER, POUND IT +WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. FILL THE CASINGS, PARBOIL AND +FRY WITH SALT, SERVE WITH MUSTARD, OR YOU MAY CUT THE SAUSAGE IN +SLICES AND SERVE ON A ROUND DISH. + + +[64] ANOTHER SAUSAGE + _ALITER_ + +WASH SPELT AND COOK IT WITH STOCK. CUT THE FAT OF THE INTESTINES OR +BELLY VERY FINE WITH LEEKS. MIX THIS WITH CHOPPED BACON AND FINELY +CHOPPED FRESH PORK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND THREE EGGS AND MIX ALL IN +THE MORTAR WITH PIGNOLIA NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, ADD BROTH, FILL +CASINGS. PARBOIL SAUSAGE, FRY LIGHTLY, OR SERVE THEM BOILED. + + Tor. and Tac. Serve with pheasant gravy. In the early + editions the following formula which thus ends is + wanting. + + +[65] ROUND SAUSAGE + _CIRELLOS ISICIATOS_ + +FILL THE CASINGS WITH THE BEST MATERIAL [forcemeat] SHAPE THE SAUSAGE +INTO SMALL CIRCLES, SMOKE. WHEN THEY HAVE TAKEN ON (VERMILLION) COLOR +FRY THEM LIGHTLY. DRESS NICELY GARNISHED ON A PHEASANT WINE GRAVY, +FLAVORED, HOWEVER, WITH CUMIN. + + V. In Tor. and in the earliest edition this formula has + been contracted with the preceding and made one formula. + + +END OF BOOK II + +_EXPLICIT LIBER SECUNDUS APICII ARTOPTUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +APICIUS + +Book III + + + + +{Illustration: ELABORATE THERMOSPODIUM + +A heater for the service of hot foods and drinks in the dining room. +Hot drinks were mixed and foods were served from apparatus of this +kind. The fuel was charcoal. There were public places, specializing in +hot drinks, called Thermopolia. This specimen was found at Stabiae, one +of the ill-fated towns destroyed by eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 72986; Field M., 24307.} + + + + +{Illustration: SERVICE PAN + +Round, with decorated handle. This and the pan with the Hercules head +on handle used in connection with the plain Thermospodium to serve hot +foods in the dining room. Hildesheim Treas.} + + + + +BOOK III. THE GARDENER + +_Lib. III. Cepuros_ + + + CHAP. I. TO BOIL ALL VEGETABLES GREEN. + CHAP. II. VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED. + CHAP. III. ASPARAGUS. + CHAP. IV. PUMPKIN, SQUASH. + CHAP. V. CITRUS FRUIT, CITRON. + CHAP. VI. CUCUMBERS. + CHAP. VII. MELON GOURD, MELON. + CHAP. VIII. MALLOWS. + CHAP. IX. YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS, CAULIFLOWER. + CHAP. X. LEEKS. + CHAP. XI. BEETS. + CHAP. XII. POT HERBS. + CHAP. XIII. TURNIPS, NAVEWS. + CHAP. XIV. HORSERADISH AND RADISHES. + CHAP. XV. SOFT CABBAGE. + CHAP. XVI. FIELD HERBS. + CHAP. XVII. NETTLES. + CHAP. XVIII. ENDIVE AND LETTUCE. + CHAP. XIX. CARDOONS. + CHAP. XX. COW-PARSNIPS. + CHAP. XXI. CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. + + + +I + + +[66] VEGETABLES, POT HERBS + _DE HOLERIBUS_ + +TO KEEP ALL VEGETABLES GREEN. + _UT OMNE HOLUS SMARAGDINUM FIAT._ + +ALL VEGETABLES WILL REMAIN GREEN IF BOILED WITH COOKING SODA [1]. + + [1] _Nitrium._ Method still in use today, considered + injurious to health if copper vessel is used, but the + amount of copper actually absorbed by the vegetable is + infinitesimal, imperceptible even by the taste. Copper, + to be actually harmful would have to be present in such + quantity as to make enjoyment impossible. + + + +II + + +[67] VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED + _PULMENTARIUM AD VENTREM_ [1] + +ALL GREEN VEGETABLES ARE SUITED FOR THIS PURPOSE [2] VERY YOUNG [3] +BEETS AND WELL MATURED LEEKS ARE PARBOILED; ARRANGE THEM IN A BAKING +DISH, GRIND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ADD BROTH AND CONDENSED MUST, OR +ANYTHING ELSE TO SWEETEN THEM A LITTLE, HEAT AND FINISH THEM ON A SLOW +FIRE, AND SERVE. + + [1] V. _Ad ventrem_, "for the belly," simple home + laxative. + + [2] V. This sentence in Torinus only. Possibly a + contraction of the foregoing formula, No. 66. + + [3] V. _minutas_, "small," i.e., young. + + +[68] A SIMILAR DISH + _SIMILITER_ + +PARBOIL POLYPODY [1] ROOT SO AS TO SOFTEN THEM, CUT THEM INTO SMALL +PIECES, SEASON WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ARRANGE IN A BAKING DISH, +FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE [2]. + + [1] V. Roots of the fern herb. + + [2] V. Although these instructions for vegetable dinners + are rather vague, they resemble primitive + _chartreuses_--fancy vegetable dishes developed by the + Carthusian monks to whom flesh eating was forbidden. + Elsewhere in Apicius we shall find the _chartreuse_ + developed to a remarkable degree. + + +[69] ANOTHER LAXATIVE + _ALITER AD VENTREM_ [1] + +SCRUB AND WASH BUNDLES OF BEETS BY RUBBING THEM WITH A LITTLE SODA +[2]. TIE THEM IN INDIVIDUAL BUNDLES, PUT INTO WATER TO BE COOKED, WHEN +DONE, SEASON WITH REDUCED MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND CUMIN, SPRINKLE +WITH PEPPER, ADD A LITTLE OIL, AND WHEN HOT, CRUSH POLYPODY AND NUTS +WITH BROTH, ADD THIS TO THE RED-HOT PAN, INCORPORATING IT WITH THE +BEETS, TAKE OFF THE FIRE QUICKLY AND SERVE. + + [1] This formula wanting in Tor. + + [2] V. Ingenious method to skin tender root vegetables, + still in vogue today. We remove the skin of tender young + root vegetables, carrots, beets, etc., by placing them + in a towel, sprinkling them with rock salt and shaking + them energetically. The modern power vegetable peeler is + really built on the same principle, only instead of salt + (which soon melts) carborundum or rough concrete + surfaces are used, against which surfaces the vegetables + are hurled by the rotary motion; often enough, too much + of the skin is removed, however. + + +[70] BEETS A LA VARRO + _BETACEOS VARRONIS_ [1] + +VARRO BEETS, THAT IS, BLACK ONES [2] OF WHICH THE ROOTS MUST BE +CLEANED WELL, COOK THEM WITH MEAD AND A LITTLE SALT AND OIL; BOIL THEM +DOWN IN THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THE ROOTS ARE SATURATED THEREBY; THE +LIQUID ITSELF IS GOOD DRINKING. IT IS ALSO NICE TO COOK A CHICKEN IN +WITH THEM. + + [1] G.-V. _Betacios_; Tor. _B. Varrones_. Probably named + for Varro, the writer on agriculture. + + [2] Roots on the order of parsnips, salsify, + oysterplant. + + +[71] ANOTHER LAXATIVE + _ALITER AD VENTREM_ + +ANOTHER VEGETABLE DISH, PROMOTING GOOD HEALTH; WASH CELERY, GREENS AND +ROOTS, AND DRY IT IN THE SUN: THEN ALSO COOK THE TENDER PART AND HEAD +OF LEEKS IN A NEW [1] POT, ALLOWING THE WATER TO BOIL DOWN ONE THIRD +OF ITS VOLUME. THEREUPON GRIND PEPPER WITH BROTH AND HONEY IN EQUAL +AMOUNTS PROPERLY MEASURED, MIX IT IN THE MORTAR WITH THE WATER OF THE +COOKED CELERY, STRAIN, BOIL AGAIN AND USE IT TO MASK THE [cooked] +CELERY WITH. IF DESIRED, ADD [the sliced root of the] CELERY TO IT +[2]. + + [1] V. "new," i.e., cook leeks in a separate sauce pan; + NOT together with the celery, which, as the original + takes for granted, must be cooked also. + + [2] V. We would leave the honey out, make a cream sauce + from the stock, or, adding bouillon, tie same with a + little flour and butter, and would call the dish Stewed + Celery and Leeks. The ancient method is entirely + rational because the mineral salts of the vegetables are + preserved and utilized (invariably observed by Apicius) + which today are often wasted by inexperienced cooks who + discard these precious elements with the water in which + vegetables are boiled. + + + +III + + +[72] ASPARAGUS + _ASPARAGOS_ + +ASPARAGUS [Tor. IN ORDER TO HAVE IT MOST AGREEABLE TO THE PALATE] MUST +BE [peeled, washed and] DRIED [1] AND IMMERSED IN BOILING WATER +BACKWARDS [2] [3]. + + [1] V. Must be dried before boiling because the cold + water clinging to the stalks is likely to chill the + boiling water too much in which the asparagus is to be + cooked. Apicius here reveals himself as the consummate + cook who is familiar with the finest detail of physical + and chemical changes which food undergoes at varying + temperatures. + + The various editions all agree: _asparagos siccabis_; + Schuch, however, says: "For the insane _siccabis_ I + substitute _siciabis_, _isiciabis_, prepare with _sicio_ + [?] and cook." He even goes on to interpret it _cucabis_ + from the Greek _kouki_, cocoanut milk, and infers that + the asparagus was first cooked in cocoanut milk and then + put back into water, a method we are tempted to + pronounce insane. + + [2] V. Backwards! G.-V. _rursum in calidam_; Tac. + _rursus in aquam calidam_; Tor. _ac rursus ..._ + + This word has caused us some reflection, but the ensuing + discovery made it worth while. _Rursus_ has escaped the + attention of the other commentators. In this case + _rursus_ means backwards, being a contraction from + _revorsum_, h.e. _reversum_. The word is important + enough to be observed. + + Apicius evidently has the right way of cooking the fine + asparagus. The stalks, after being peeled and washed + must be bunched together and tied according to sizes, + and the bunches must be set into the boiling water + "backwards," that is, they must stand upright with the + heads protruding from the water. The heads will be made + tender above the water line by rising steam and will be + done simultaneously with the harder parts of the stalks. + We admit, we have never seen a modern cook observe this + method. They usually boil the tender heads to death + while the lower stalks are still hard. + + Though this formula is incomplete (it fails to state the + sauce to be served, also that the asparagus must be + peeled and bunched, that the water must contain salt, + etc.) it is one of the neatest formulae in Apicius. It is + amusing to note how the author herein unconsciously + reveals what a poor literateur but what a fine cook he + is. This is characteristic of most good practitioners. + One may perfectly master the vast subject of cookery, + yet one may not be able to give a definition of even a + single term, let alone the ability to exactly describe + one of the many processes of cookery. Real poets often + are in the same predicament; none of them ever explained + the art satisfactorily. + + [3] G.-V. add to the formula _callosiores reddes_--give + back [eliminate] the harder ones. This sentence belongs + to the next article. And Torinus, similar to + Humelbergius, renders this sentence _ut reddas ad gustum + calliores_--to render the harder ones palatable--the + squash and pumpkin namely--and we are inclined to agree + with him. + + + +IV + + +[73] PUMPKIN, SQUASH + _CUCURBITAS_ + +TO HAVE THE HARDER ONES PALATABLE, DO THIS: [1] [Cut the fruit into +pieces, boil and] SQUEEZE THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED FRUIT AND +ARRANGE [the pieces] IN A BAKING DISH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN +AND SILPHIUM, THAT IS, A VERY LITTLE OF THE LASER ROOT AND A LITTLE +RUE, SEASON THIS WITH STOCK, MEASURE A LITTLE VINEGAR AND MIX IN A +LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, SO THAT IT CAN BE STRAINED [2] AND POUR THIS +LIQUID OVER THE FRUIT IN THE BAKING DISH; LET IT BOIL THREE TIMES, +RETIRE FROM THE FIRE AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY LITTLE GROUND PEPPER. + + [1] Cf. note 3 to No. 72. + + [2] List. _Ut coloretur_--to give it color; Tor. _ut ius + coletur_--from _colo_--to strain, to filter. + + Cf. also note 2 to No. 55. + + +[74] PUMPKIN LIKE DASHEENS + _ALITER CUCURBITAS IURE COLOCASIORUM_ [1] + +BOIL THE PUMPKIN IN WATER LIKE COLOCASIA; GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN AND RUE, +ADD VINEGAR AND MEASURE OUT THE BROTH IN A SAUCEPAN. THE PUMPKIN +PIECES [nicely cut] WATER PRESSED OUT [are arranged] IN A SAUCEPAN +WITH THE BROTH AND ARE FINISHED ON THE FIRE WHILE THE JUICE IS BEING +TIED WITH A LITTLE ROUX. BEFORE SERVING SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2]. + + [1] V. _Colocasia Antiquorum_ belonging to the dasheen + or taro family, a valuable tuber, again mentioned in No. + 172, 216, 244 and 322. Cf. various notes, principally + that to No. 322. Also see U. S. Dept. of Agr. Farmer's + Bulletin No. 1396, p. 2. This is a "new" and + commercially and gastronomically important root + vegetable, the flavor reminding of a combination of + chestnuts and potatoes, popularly known as "Chinese + potatoes" which has been recently introduced by the + U. S. Government from the West Indies where it received + the name, Dasheen, derived from _de Chine_--from China. + + [2] Tor. continues without interruption into the next + formula. + + +[75] PUMPKIN, ALEXANDRINE STYLE + _ALITER CUCURBITAS MORE ALEXANDRINO_ + +PRESS THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED PUMPKIN, PLACE IN A BAKING DISH, +SPRINKLE WITH SALT, GROUND PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, GREEN MINT +AND A LITTLE LASER ROOT; SEASON WITH VINEGAR. NOW ADD DATE WINE AND +PIGNOLIA NUTS GROUND WITH HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH, MEASURE OUT +CONDENSED WINE AND OIL, POUR THIS OVER THE PUMPKIN AND FINISH IN THIS +LIQUOR AND SERVE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER BEFORE SERVING. + + +[76] BOILED PUMPKIN + _ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS_ + +[Boiled Pumpkin] STEWED IN BROTH WITH PURE OIL. + + +[77] FRIED PUMPKIN + _ALITER CUCURBITAS FRICTAS_ + +[Fried pumpkin served with] SIMPLE WINE SAUCE AND PEPPER. + + +[78] ANOTHER WAY, BOILED AND FRIED + _ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS ET FRICTAS_ + +BOILED PUMPKIN FRIED IS PLACED IN A BAKING PAN. SEASON WITH CUMIN +WINE, ADD A LITTLE OIL; FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE. + + +[79] ANOTHER WAY, MASHED + _CUCURBITAS FRICTAS TRITAS_ + +FRIED [1] PUMPKIN, SEASONED WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, +ONION, WINE BROTH AND OIL: STEW THE PUMPKIN [in this] IN A BAKING +DISH, TIE THE LIQUID WITH ROUX [mash] AND SERVE IN THE DISH. + + [1] V. Baking the fruit reduces the water contents, + renders the puree more substantial. G.-V. + _Tritas_--mashed. Tor. connects _tritas_ up with pepper, + hence it is doubtful whether this dish of pumpkin is + mashed pumpkin. + + +[80] PUMPKIN AND CHICKEN + _CUCURBITAS CUM GALLINA_ + +[Stew the pumpkin with a hen, garnish with] HARD-SKINNED PEACHES, +TRUFFLES; PEPPER, CARRAWAY, AND CUMIN, SILPHIUM AND GREEN HERBS, SUCH +AS MINT, CELERY, CORIANDER, PENNYROYAL, CRESS, WINE [1] OIL AND +VINEGAR. + + [1] Tor. _Vinum vel oleum_; List. _vinum_, _mel_, + _oleum_. + + + +V + + +[81] CITRON + _CITRIUM_ [1] + +FOR THE PREPARATION OF CITRON FRUIT WE TAKE SILER [2] FROM THE +MOUNTAINS, SILPHIUM, DRY MINT, VINEGAR AND BROTH. + + [1] List. _Citrini_--a lemon or cucumber squash. + + [2] Tor. _Silerem_; List. _sil_, which is hartwort, a + kind of cumin or mountain fennel. + + + +VI + + +[82] CUCUMBERS + _CUCUMERES_ + +[Stew the] PEELED CUCUMBERS EITHER IN BROTH [1] OR IN A WINE SAUCE; +[and] YOU WILL FIND THEM TO BE TENDER AND NOT CAUSING INDIGESTION. + + [1] Usually cucumbers are parboiled in water and then + finished in broth; most often after being parboiled they + are stuffed with forcemeat and then finished in broth. + + +[83] CUCUMBERS ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER CUCUMERES RASOS_ + +[Peeled cucumbers are] STEWED WITH BOILED BRAINS, CUMIN AND A LITTLE +HONEY. ADD SOME CELERY SEED, STOCK AND OIL, BIND THE GRAVY WITH EGGS +[1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. _bis obligabis_--tie twice--for which there is + no reason, except in case the sauce should curdle. List. + _oleo elixabis_--fry in oil--obviously wrong, as the + materials for this stew are already cooked. Sch. _ovis + obligabis_--bind with eggs--which is the thing to do in + this case. + + +[84] ANOTHER CUCUMBER RECIPE + _ALITER CUCUMERES_ + +CUCUMBERS, PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND +VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM. + + Sounds like a fancy dressing for raw sliced cucumbers, + though there are no directions to this effect. + + + +VII + + +[85] MELON-GOURD AND MELONS + _PEPONES ET MELONES_ + +PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE +IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM. + + Same as 84; which confirms above theory. It is quite + possible that melons were eaten raw with this fancy + dressing. Many people enjoy melons with pepper and salt, + or, in salad form with oil and vinegar. Gourds, however, + to be palatable, must be boiled and served either hot or + cold with this dressing. + + + +VIII + + +[86] MALLOWS + _MALVAS_ + +THE SMALLER MALLOWS [are prepared] WITH GARUM [1], STOCK [2] OIL AND +VINEGAR; THE LARGER MALLOWS [prepare] WITH A WINE SAUCE, PEPPER AND +STOCK, [adding] CONDENSED WINE OR RAISIN WINE. + + [1] Tor. _Garum_; List. _Oenogarum_. + + [2] _Liquamen_--depending upon the mode of serving the + mallows, hot or cold. + + + +IX + + +[87] YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS [1] + _CYMAS ET CAULICULOS_ [2] + +[Boil the] SPROUTS; [1] [season with] CUMIN [3], SALT, WINE AND OIL; +IF YOU LIKE [add] PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE, CORIANDER; THE TENDER +LEAVES OF THE STALKS [stew] IN BROTH; WINE AND OIL BE THE SEASONING. + + [1] Including, perhaps, cauliflower and broccoli. + + [2] List. _Cimae & Coliculi. Nunc crudi cum condimentis + nunc elixati inferentur._ Served sometimes raw with + dressing, sometimes boiled. + + [3] Cumin or carraway seed is still used today in the + preparation of the delicious "Bavarian" cabbage which + also includes wine and other spices. + + +[88] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +CUT THE STALKS IN HALF AND BOIL THEM. THE LEAVES ARE MASHED AND +SEASONED WITH CORIANDER, ONION, CUMIN, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, OR +CONDENSED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. + + Very sensible way of using cabbage stalks that are + usually thrown away. Note the almost scientific + procedure: the stalks are separated from the leaves, + split to facilitate cooking; they are cooked separately + because they require more time than the tender greens. + + Our present method appears barbarous in comparison. We + quarter the cabbage head, and either boil it or steam + it. As a result either the tender leaves are cooked to + death or the stems are still hard. The overcooked parts + are not palatable, the underdone ones indigestible. Such + being the case, our boiled cabbage is a complete loss, + unless prepared the Apician way. + + +[89] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE COOKED [1] STALKS ARE PLACED IN A [baking] DISH; MOISTEN WITH +STOCK AND PURE OIL, SEASON WITH CUMIN, SPRINKLE [2] WITH PEPPER, +LEEKS, CUMIN, AND GREEN CORIANDER [all] CHOPPED UP. + + [1] Tor. _Coliculi assati_--_saute_, fried; (Remember: + _Choux de Bruxelles saute_) List. _elixati_--boiled. + G.-V. _Cauliculi elixati_. + + [2] Tor. _Superasperges_; G.-V. _piper asperges_. + + Sounds like a salad of cooked cabbage. The original + leaves us in doubt as to the temperature of the dish. + + +[90] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE VEGETABLE, SEASONED AND PREPARED IN THE ABOVE WAY IS STEWED WITH +PARBOILED LEEKS. + + +[91] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +TO THE SPROUTS OR STALKS, SEASONED AND PREPARED AS ABOVE, ARE ADDED +GREEN OLIVES WHICH ARE HEATED LIKEWISE. + + +[92] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +PREPARE THE SPROUTS IN THE ABOVE WAY, COVER THEM WITH BOILED SPELT AND +PINE NUTS [1] AND SPRINKLE [2] WITH RAISINS. + + [1] The nuts should not astonish us. The French today + have a delicious dish, _Choux de Bruxelles aux + Marrons_--Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts. Sprouts and + chestnuts are, of course, cooked separately; the lightly + boiled sprouts are _saute_ in butter; the chestnuts + parboiled, peeled, and finished in stock with a little + sugar or syrup, tossed in butter and served in the + center of the sprouts. + + The Apician formula with cereal and raisins added is too + exotic to suit our modern taste, but without a question + is a nutritious dish and complete from a dietetic point + of view. + + [2] Tor. _Superasperges_; G.-V. _piper asperges_. + + + +X + + +[93] LEEKS + _PORROS_ + +WELL MATURED LEEKS [1] ARE BOILED WITH A PINCH OF SALT [2] IN +[combined] WATER AND OIL [3]. THEY ARE THEN STEWED IN OIL AND IN THE +BEST KIND OF BROTH, AND SERVED. + + [1] Tor. _Poros bene maturos_; G.-V. _maturos fieri_. + + [2] One of the rare instances where Apicius mentions + salt in cookery, i.e., salt in a dry form. _Pugnum + salis_--a fist of salt--he prescribes here. Usually it + is _liquamen_--broth, brine--he uses. + + [3] Tor. is correct in finishing the sentence here. + G.-V. continue _et eximes._, which is the opening of the + next sentence, and it makes a difference in the formula. + + +[94] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LEEKS + _ALITER PORROS_ + +WRAP THE LEEKS WELL IN CABBAGE LEAVES, HAVING FIRST COOKED THEM AS +DIRECTED ABOVE [1] AND THEN FINISH THEM IN THE ABOVE WAY. + + [1] Tor. _in primis_--first; List., G.-V. _in + prunis_--hot embers. + + +[95] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER PORROS_ + +COOK THE LEEKS WITH [laurel] BERRIES [1], [and otherwise treat them] +AND SERVE AS ABOVE. + + [1] Tor. _Porros in bacca coctos_; List. _in + cacabo_--cooked in a casserole; Sch. _bafa + embama_--steeped, marinated (in oil); G.-V. _in baca + coctos_. Another way to read this: _baca et fabae_--with + beans--is quite within reason. The following formula, + 96, is perhaps only a variant of the above. + + Brandt: with olives, referring to No. 91 as a precedent. + + +[96] LEEKS AND BEANS + _ALITER PORROS_ + +AFTER HAVING BOILED THE LEEKS IN WATER, [green string] BEANS WHICH +HAVE NOT YET BEEN PREPARED OTHERWISE, MAY BE BOILED [in the leek +water] [1] PRINCIPALLY ON ACCOUNT OF THE GOOD TASTE THEY WILL ACQUIRE; +AND MAY THEN BE SERVED WITH THE LEEKS. + + [1] Apicius needed no modern science of nutrition to + remind him of the value of the mineral salts in + vegetables. + + + +XI + + +[97] BEETS + _BETAS_ + +TO MAKE A DISH OF BEETS THAT WILL APPEAL TO YOUR TASTE [1] SLICE [the +beets, [2] with] LEEKS AND CRUSH CORIANDER AND CUMIN; ADD RAISIN WINE +[3], BOIL ALL DOWN TO PERFECTION: BIND IT, SERVE [the beets] SEPARATE +FROM THE BROTH, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR. + + [1] Sentence in Tor.; wanting in List. _et al._ + + [2] List. No mention of beets is made in this formula; + therefore, it may belong to the foregoing leek recipes. + V. This is not so. Here the noun is made subject to the + first verb, as is practiced frequently. Moreover, the + mode of preparation fits beets nicely, except for the + flour to which we object in note 3, below. To cook beets + with leeks, spices and wine and serve them (cold) with + oil and vinegar is indeed a method that cannot be + improved upon. + + [3] Tac., Tor., List., G.-V. _uvam passam_, + _Farinam_--raisins and flour--for which there is no + reason. Sch. _varianam_--raisin wine of the Varianian + variety; Bas. _Phariam_. V. inclined to agree with Sch. + and Bas. + + +[98] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER BETAS ELIXAS_ + +COOK THE BEETS WITH MUSTARD [seed] AND SERVE THEM WELL PICKLED IN A +LITTLE OIL AND VINEGAR. + + V. Add bay leaves, cloves, pepper grains, sliced onion + and a little sugar, and you have our modern pickled + beets. + + + +XII + + +[99] GREEN VEGETABLES, POT HERBS + _OLISERA_ [1] + +[The greens] TIED IN HANDY BUNDLES, COOKED AND SERVED WITH PURE OIL; +ALSO PROPER WITH FRIED FISH. + + [1] Tac. _Olisera_; Tor. _Olifera_ (_sev mauis olyra_) + Tor. is mistaken. Hum., List. _Olisatra_; (old Ms. note + in our Hum. copy: "_Alessandrina uulgo_") from + _olusatrum_--_olus_--pot herbs, cabbage, turnips. G.-V. + _Holisera_, from _holus_, i.e. _olus_ and from _olitor_ + one who raises pot herbs. + + + +XIII + + +[100] TURNIPS OR NAVEWS + _RAPAS SIVE NAPOS_ + +[Turnips are] COOKED [soft, the water is] SQUEEZED [out; then] CRUSH A +GOOD AMOUNT OF CUMIN AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD PARTHICAN [1] LASER OR [2] +VINEGAR, STOCK, CONDENSED WINE AND OIL [3] HEAT MODERATELY AND SERVE. + + [1] i.e. Persian laser; List. _laser, Parthicum_; (the + comma makes a difference!) Sch. _particum_--a part. + + [2] Tac., Tor. _vel acetum_; List. G.-V. _mel, acetum_. + Another comma; and "honey" instead of "or." V. We doubt + this: the vinegar is an alternative, for it takes the + place of the more expensive Persian _laser_ (which was + an essence of the _laser_ root, often diluted with + vinegar). + + [3] List., G.-V. _oleum modice_: _fervere_; Tor. _& + oleum, quae modice fervere facias_. Again note Lister's + punctuation here and in the foregoing notes. The + misplaced commas and colons raise havoc with the formulae + everywhere. Torinus, who in his preface complains that + his authority has no punctuation whatsoever and thereby + indicates that it must have been a very ancient copy, + (at least prior to the 1503 Tac. ed.) is generally not + far from the mark. It is also doubtful that the variants + are by him, as is claimed by List. In this instance, + indeed, Tor. is again correct. + + +[101] ANOTHER WAY [1] + _ALITER RAPAS SIVE NAPOS_ + +[The turnips are] BOILED, SERVED DRESSED WITH OIL, TO WHICH, IF +DESIRED, YOU MAY ADD VINEGAR [2]. + + [1] Tor. _ad delitias_--delightful. + + [2] V. Presumably served cold, as a salad; cf. No. 122. + + + +XIV + + +[102] RADISHES + _RAPHANOS_ + +PEPPER THE RADISHES WELL; OR, EQUALLY WELL: GRATE IT WITH PEPPER AND +BRINE. + + Sch., G.-V. _Rafanos_; _Raphanos agria_,--a kind of + horseradish; Plinius: h.e. _raphanus sylvestris_. + + + +XV + + +[103] SOFT CABBAGE + _OLUS MOLLE_ + +THE CABBAGE IS COOKED WITH POT HERBS IN SODA WATER; PRESS [the water +out] CHOP IT VERY FINE: [now] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY SATURY WITH +DRY ONIONS, ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE. + + +[104] ANOTHER MASHED GREEN VEGETABLE + _ALTER OLUS MOLLE_ [_EX APIO_] + +COOK CELERY IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [water out] CHOP FINE. IN THE +MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONION [and mix with] WINE AND +STOCK, ADDING SOME OIL. COOK THIS IN THE BOILER [1] AND MIX THE +CELERY WITH THIS PREPARATION. + + [1] _in pultario_. The _pultarius_ is a pot in which + cereals were boiled; from _puls_--porridge, pap. + + +[105] ANOTHER MASHED VEGETABLE + _ALITER OLUS MOLLE_ [_EX LACTUCIS_] + +COOK THE LETTUCE LEAVES WITH ONION IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [the water +out] CHOP VERY FINE; IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, +DRY MINT, ONION; ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE. + + +[106] TO PREVENT MASHED VEGETABLES FROM TURNING + _OLUS MOLLE NE ARESCAT_ [1] + +IT WILL BE REQUIRED ABOVE ALL TO CLEAN THE VEGETABLES WELL, TO CUT OFF +ALL DECAYED PARTS AND TO COVER [the cooked vegetables] WITH WORMWOOD +WATER. + + [1] Tor. _ne ... exarescat_, the difference in the + meaning is immaterial. + + + +XVI + + +[107] FIELD HERBS + _HERBAE RUSTICAE_ + +FIELD AND FOREST [1] HERBS ARE PREPARED [2] [either raw] WITH STOCK +[3] OIL AND VINEGAR [as a salad, [4]] OR AS A COOKED DISH [5] BY +ADDING PEPPER, CUMIN AND MASTICH BERRIES. + + [1] Tor. _ac sylvestres_; V. German, _Feldsalat_. + + [2] Tor. _parantur_; wanting in other editions. + + [3] _Liquamine_, here interpreted as brine. + + [4] Tac., Sch., _et al._ _a manu_; Tor. _vel + manu_--because eaten with the hand. + + [5] Tor. _vel in patina_. + + + +XVII + + +[108] NETTLES + _URTICAE_ + +THE FEMALE NETTLES, WHEN THE SUN IS IN THE POSITION OF THE ARIES, IS +SUPPOSED TO RENDER VALUABLE SERVICES AGAINST AILMENTS OF VARIOUS KINDS +[1]. + + [1] Tac., List., Sch., _et al._ _adversus aegritudinem_. + + Barthius: _Quam aegritudinem?_ etc., etc. + + Tor. _plurifarias_! + + Reinsenius: _ad arcendum morbum_, etc., etc. + + Hum. _scilicet quamcunque hoc est ..._ etc., etc., etc. + + G.-V. _si voles_. + + V. This innocent little superstition about the curative + qualities of the female nettle causes the savants to + engage in various speculations. + + Nettles are occasionally eaten as vegetables on the + Continent. + + + +XVIII + + +[109] ENDIVES AND LETTUCE + _INTUBA ET LACTUCAE_ + +ENDIVES [are dressed] WITH BRINE, A LITTLE OIL AND CHOPPED ONION, +INSTEAD OF THE REAL LETTUCE [1] IN WINTER TIME THE ENDIVES ARE TAKEN +OUT OF THE PICKLE [2] [and are dressed] WITH HONEY OR VINEGAR. + + [1] Hum. _pro lactucis uere_; Tor. _p. l. accipint_; + G.-V. _p. l. vero_ (separated by period)--all indicating + that endives are a substitute for lettuce when this is + not available. + + [2] Cf. {Rx} No. 27, also Nos. 22 and 23. + + +[110] LETTUCE SALAD, FIELD SALAD + _AGRESTES LACTUCAE_ [1] + +[Dress it] WITH VINEGAR DRESSING AND A LITTLE BRINE STOCK; WHICH HELPS +DIGESTION AND IS TAKEN TO COUNTERACT INFLATION [2]. + + [1] Tor. _sic_; Hum. _agri l._; Tac. _id._; Sch. and + G.-V. have _acri_ as an adjective to vinegar, the last + word in the preceding formula. + + [2] List. and Hum. continuing: "And this salad will not + hurt you"; but Tor., Sch. and G.-V. use this as a + heading for the following formula. + + +[111] A HARMLESS SALAD + _NE LACTUCAE LAEDANT_ + +[And in order that the lettuce may not hurt you take (with it or after +it) the following preparation] [1] 2 OUNCES OF GINGER, 1 OUNCE OF +GREEN RUE, 1 OUNCE OF MEATY DATES, 12 SCRUPLES OF GROUND PEPPER, 1 +OUNCE OF GOOD HONEY, AND 8 OUNCES OF EITHER AETHIOPIAN OR SYRIAN CUMIN. +MAKE AN INFUSION OF THIS IN VINEGAR, THE CUMIN CRUSHED, AND STRAIN. OF +THIS LIQUOR USE A SMALL SPOONFUL MIX IT WITH STOCK AND A LITTLE +VINEGAR: YOU MAY TAKE A SMALL SPOONFUL AFTER THE MEAL [2]. + + [1] Tac. and Tor. _Ne lactucae laedant_ [take it] _cum + zingiberis uncijs duabus_, etc. Hum., List., G.-V. + _cumini unc. II._ They and Sch. read the _cum_ of Tac. + and Tor. for _cumini_, overlooking the fact that the + recipe later calls for Aethopian or Syrian cumin as + well. This shifts the weights of the various ingredients + from the one to the other, completely upsetting the + sense of the formula. + + [2] Goll. ignores this passage completely. + + V. This is another of the medical formulae that have + suffered much by experimentation and interpretation + through the ages. It seems to be an aromatic vinegar for + a salad dressing, and, as such, a very interesting + article, reminding of our present tarragon, etc., + vinegars. To be used judiciously in salads. + + Again, as might be expected, the medicinal character of + the formula inspires the medieval doctors to profound + meditation and lively debate. + + Cf. {Rx} Nos. 34 and 108. + + + +XIX + + +[112] CARDOONS + _CARDUI_ + +CARDOONS [are eaten with a dressing of] BRINY BROTH, OIL, AND CHOPPED +[hard] EGGS. + + V. Precisely as we do today: French dressing and hard + boiled eggs. We do not forget pepper, of course. Perhaps + the ancient "briny broth" contained enough of this and + of other ingredients, such as fine condiments and spices + to make the dressing perfect. + + +[113] ANOTHER [Dressing for] CARDOONS + _ALITER CARDUOS_ + +RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL--ALL GREEN--FINELY CRUSHED; ADD PEPPER, +LOVAGE, AND [1] BRINE AND OIL [2]. + + [1] Tac. and Tor. _vel._; List., Sch., G.-V. + _mel_--honey--which would spoil this fine _vinaigrette_ + or cold _fines herbes dressing_. However, even nowadays, + sugar is quite frequently added to salad dressings. + + [2] Gollmer claims that this dressing is served with + cooked cardoons, the recipe for which follows below. + This is wanting in Tor. + + +[114] BOILED CARDOONS + _ALITER CARDUOS ELIXOS_ + +[Are served with] PEPPER, CUMIN, BROTH AND OIL. + + + +XX + + +[115] (COW-) PARSNIPS [?] + _SPONDYLI VEL FONDULI_ [1] + +COW-PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and eaten] WITH A SIMPLE WINE SAUCE. + + [1] Tac. _Spondili uel fonduli_ and _Sphon ..._; Tor. as + above; Hum. _Spongioli uel funguli_; List., _id._; Sch. + _Sfondili uel funguli_; G.-V. _Sphondyli uel funduli_. + + Cf. note to Nos. 46, 121, 122. + + +[116] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +BOIL THE PARSNIPS IN SALT WATER [and season them] WITH PURE OIL [1], +CHOPPED GREEN CORIANDER AND WHOLE PEPPER. + + [1] Tac. _Oleo mero_; Other editors: _Oleo, mero_. V. + The comma is misplaced. + + +[117] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +PREPARE THE BOILED PARSNIPS WITH THE FOLLOWING SAUCE: CELERY SEED, +RUE, HONEY, GROUND PEPPER, MIXED WITH RAISIN WINE, STOCK AND A LITTLE +OIL; BIND THIS WITH ROUX [bring to a boiling point, immerse parsnips] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + +[118] ANOTHER WAY [Puree of Parsnips] [1] + _ALITER_ + +MASH THE PARSNIPS, [add] CUMIN, RUE, STOCK, A LITTLE CONDENSED +WINE, OIL, GREEN CORIANDER [and] LEEKS AND SERVE; GOES WELL WITH +SALT PORK [2]. + + [1] Again faulty punctuation obscures the text. + Carefully compare the following: Tac. and Tor. + _Spondylos teres, cuminum_, etc. Hum., List. and G.-V. + _S. teres cuminum_, i.e. crush the cumin. Sch. _S. + tores_--dry, parch! + + [2] _Inferes pro salso_--serve with salt pork or bacon, + or, instead of--_Salsum_--salt pork. Dann. Well seasoned + with salt! Sch. _infares pro salsa_. For further + confirmation of _salsum_ cf. {Rx} Nos. 148-152. + + +[119] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +BOIL THE PARSNIPS [sufficiently, if] HARD [1] [then] PUT THEM IN A +SAUCE PAN AND STEW WITH OIL, STOCK, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, STRAIN [2] +AND BIND WITH ROUX. + + [1] Tor. _praeduratos_; List. _praedurabis_. How can they + be hardened? It may perhaps stand for "parboil." We + agree with Tor. that the hard ones (_praeduratos_) must + be cooked soft. + + [2] Tor. and Tac. _Colabis_--strain; List. and G.-V. + _Colorabis_--color. No necessity for coloring the gravy, + but straining after the binding with roux is important + which proves Tor. correct again. Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. + 73 and note 2 to {Rx} No. 55. + + +[120] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ [1] + +FINISH [marinate] THE PARSNIPS IN OIL AND BROTH, OR FRY THEM IN OIL, +SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PEPPER, AND SERVE. + + [1] Ex G.-V. wanting in Tor. and List. Found in Sch. + also. V. Procedure quite in accordance with modern + practice. We envelope the p. in flour or frying batter. + + +[121] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ [1] + +BRUISE THE BOILED PARSNIPS [scallops, muscular part of shellfish] +ELIMINATE THE HARD STRINGS; ADD BOILED SPELT AND CHOPPED HARD EGGS, +STOCK AND PEPPER. MAKE CROQUETTES OR SAUSAGE FROM THIS, ADDING +PIGNOLIA NUT AND PEPPER, WRAP IN CAUL [or fill in casings] FRY AND +SERVE THEM AS AN ENTREE DISH IN A WINE SAUCE. + + [1] V. This formula is virtually a repetition of {Rx} No. + 46, all the more bewildering because of the divergence + of the term (Cf. {Rx} No. 115), which stands for + "scallops" or the muscular part of any bivalve, at least + in the above formula. + + The Graeco-Latin word for cow-parsnip is _spondylium_, + _sphondylium_, _spondylion_. It is almost certain that + the preceding parsnips formulae are in the right place + here. They are in direct line with the other vegetables + here treated--the shellfish--_spondylus_--would be out + of place in this chapter, Book III, The Gardener. All + the recipes, with the exception of the above, fit a + vegetable like parsnips. Even Lister's and Humelberg's + interpretation of the term, who read + _spongioli_--mushrooms--could be questioned under this + heading, Book III. + + It is barely possible that this entire series of + formulae, _Spondyli uel fonduli_ ({Rx} Nos. 115-121) does + belong to Book II among the scallop _hysitia_, though we + are little inclined to accept this theory. + + Cf. {Rx} No. 122 which appears to be a confirmation of + the view expressed above. + + + +XXI + + +[122] CARROTS AND PARSNIPS + _CAROTAE ET PASTINACAE_ + +CARROTS OR PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and served] WITH A WINE SAUCE. + + V. Exactly like {Rx} No. 115, which may be a + confirmation that _spondyli_ stands for cow-parsnips. + + +[123] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE CARROTS [are cooked] SALTED [and served] WITH PURE OIL AND +VINEGAR. + + V. As a salad. "Italian Salad" consists of a variety of + such cooked vegetables, nicely dressed with oil and + vinegar, or with mayonnaise. Cf. {Rx} No. 102. + + +[124] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE CARROTS [are] BOILED [and] SLICED, STEWED WITH CUMIN AND A LITTLE +OIL AND ARE SERVED. AT THE SAME TIME [1] [here is your opportunity] +MAKE A CUMIN SAUCE [from the carrot juice] FOR THOSE WHO HAVE THE +COLIC [2]. + + [1] Ex Tor. wanting elsewhere. + + [2] Tac. _coliorum_; Tor. _cuminatum colicorum_; List. + _c. coloratum_--colored; G.-V. _c. colorium_. + + +END OF BOOK III + +_EXPLICIT APICII CEPURICA DE OLERIBUS LIBER TERTIUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: THERMOSPODIUM OF PLAIN DESIGN + +Water and food heater for everyday purposes. Charcoal fuel. Foods were +kept on top in pans, dishes or pots, and were thus carried from the +kitchen into the dining room. They were also used for food service in +hotel rooms, supplied from adjacent tavern kitchens, as some hotels +had no food preparation facilities. This handy apparatus was designed +for general utility, as it also served as a portable stove on chilly +days in living rooms that were not heated from the central heating +plant found in larger houses. Ntl. Mus. Naples, 73882; Field M. +24179.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book IV + + + + +{Illustration: ROMAN WINE PRESS + +Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.} + + + + +{Illustration: A DISH FOR THE SERVICE OF EGGS + +Hildesheim Treasure} + + + + +BOOK IV. MISCELLANEA + +_Lib. IV. Pandecter_ [1] + + + CHAP. I. BOILED DINNERS. + CHAP. II. DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND SO FORTH. + CHAP. III. FINELY MINCED DISHES, OR _ISICIA_. + CHAP. IV. PORRIDGE, GRUEL. + CHAP. V. APPETIZING DISHES. + + + +I + + +[125] BOILED DINNER + _SALACATTABIA_ [2] + +PEPPER, FRESH MINT, CELERY, DRY PENNYROYAL, CHEESE [3], PIGNOLIA NUTS, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF EGG, FRESH WATER, SOAKED BREAD AND THE +LIQUID PRESSED OUT, COW'S CHEESE AND CUCUMBERS ARE ARRANGED IN A DISH, +ALTERNATELY, WITH THE NUTS; [also add] FINELY CHOPPED CAPERS [4], +CHICKEN LIVERS [5]; COVER COMPLETELY WITH [a lukewarm, congealing] +BROTH, PLACE ON ICE [and when congealed unmould and] SERVE UP [6]. + + [1] Read: _Pandectes_--embracing the whole science. + + [2] Read: _Salacaccabia_--from _salsa_ and + _caccabus_--salt meat boiled in the pot. Sch. _Sala + cottabia_; G.-V. _cattabia_. + + [3] Sch. _casiam_ instead of _caseum_. + + [4] Sch. _Copadiis porcinis_--small bits of pork; List. + _cepas aridas puto_--"shallots, I believe"; Lan. + _capparis_; Vat., G.-V. _id._ + + [5] Dann. Chicken meat. + + [6] This dish if pork were added (cf. Sch. in note 4 + above) would resemble our modern "headcheese"; the + presence of cheese in this formula and in our word + "headcheese" is perhaps not accidental; the cheese has + been eliminated in the course of time from dishes of + this sort while the name has remained with us. "Cheese" + also appears in the German equivalent for + custard--_Eierkaese_. + + +[126] APICIAN JELLY + _SALACATTABIA APICIANA_ + +PUT IN THE MORTAR CELERY SEED, DRY PENNYROYAL, DRY MINT, GINGER, FRESH +CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL AND WINE; CRUSH IT +TOGETHER [in order to make a dressing of it]. [Now] PLACE 3 PIECES OF +PICENTIAN BREAD IN A MOULD, INTERLINED WITH PIECES OF [cooked] +CHICKEN, [cooked] SWEETBREADS OF CALF OR LAMB, CHEESE [1], PIGNOLIA +NUTS, CUCUMBERS [pickles] FINELY CHOPPED DRY ONIONS [shallots] +COVERING THE WHOLE WITH [jellified] BROTH. BURY THE MOULD IN SNOW UP +TO THE RIM; [unmould] SPRINKLE [with the above dressing] AND SERVE +[2]. + + [1] List. _caseum Vestinum_--a certain cheese from the + Adriatic coast. + + [2] The nature of the first passage of this formula + indicates a dressing for a cold dish. The dish was + probably unmoulded when firm, and the jelly covered with + this dressing, though the original does not state this + procedure. In that case it would resemble a highly + complicated chicken salad, such as we make + today--_mayonnaise de volaille en aspic_, for instance. + We recall the artistic molds for puddings and other + dishes which the ancients had which were nicely suited + for dishes such as the above. + + The Picentian bread--made of spelt--was a celebrated + product of the bakeries of Picentia, a town of lower + Italy, near the Tuscan sea, according to Pliny. + + Cf. {Rx} No. 141. + + +[127] OTHER SALACACCABIA + _ALITER_ + +HOLLOW OUT AN ALEXANDRINE LOAF OF BREAD, SOAK THE CRUMBS WITH POSCA [a +mixture of water, wine, vinegar or lemon juice] AND MAKE A PASTE OF +IT. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, HONEY [1] MINT, GARLIC, FRESH CORIANDER, +SALTED COW'S CHEESE, WATER AND OIL. WINE [2] POURED OVER BEFORE +SERVING [3]. + + [1] Wanting in Tor. + + [2] G.-V. _insuper nivem_--chilled on snow (like the + preceding formula). Tac. _insuper vinum_; Sch. _id._ + + [3] A panada as is found in every old cookery book. + Today it remains as a dressing for roast fowl, etc. + Quoting from "A Collection of Receipts in Cookery, + Physick and Surgery," London, 1724: + + "Panada for a Sick or Weak Stomach. Put the crumbs of a + Penny White-Loaf grated into a Quart of cold Water, set + both on the Fire together with a blade of Mace: When + 'tis boil'd smooth, take it off the fire and put in a + bit of Lemon-peel, the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Sack + [Spanish Wine] and Sugar to your Taste. This is very + Nourishing and never offends the Stomach. Some season + with butter and Sugar, adding Currants which on some + occasions are proper; but the first is the most grateful + and innocent." + + Mrs. Glasse, a quarter century later, in her famous book + [The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, London, 1747, + 1st ed.] omits the wine, but Mrs. Mason, at about the + same time, insists on having it with panada. + + The imaginary or real relation between the sciences of + cookery and medicine is illustrated here. + + + +II + +DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND SO FORTH + _PATINAE PISCIUM, HOLERUM & POMORUM_ + + +[128] EVERYDAY DISH + _PATINA QUOTIDIANA_ [1] + +MAKE A PASTE OF STEWED BRAINS [calf's, pig's, etc.] SEASON WITH +PEPPER, CUMIN, LASER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, MILK AND EGGS [2] POACH +IT OVER A WEAK FIRE OR IN A HOT WATER [BATH]. + + [1] Tac. _quottidiana_; List. _cottidiana_. + + [2] List. _ovis_--with eggs, which is correct. Tor. + _holus_; Lan. _olus_--herbs, cabbage. + + Cf. {Rx} No. 142. + + +[129] ANOTHER DISH, WHICH CAN BE TURNED OVER [A Nut Custard] + _ALITER PATINA VERSATILIS_ + +THE DISH, CALLED TURN-OVER, IS THUS MADE [1] CRUSH VERY FINE WALNUTS +AND HAZELNUTS [2] TOAST THEM AND CRUSH WITH HONEY, MIX IN PEPPER, +BROTH, MILK AND EGGS AND A LITTLE OIL [3]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] List. _torres eas_--toast them (wanting in Tor.) + which is the thing to do. Cf. No. 143, practically a + repetition of this. Cf. 301. + + [3] This laconic formula indicates a custard poached, + like in the preceding, in a mould, which, when cooled + off, is unmoulded in the usual way. This _patina + versatilis_ is in fact the modern _creme renversee_, + with nuts. + + It is characteristic of Apicius for incompleteness and + want of precise directions, without which the experiment + in the hands of an inexperienced operator would result + in failure. + + +[130] ANOTHER + _ALITER PATINA_ + +ANOTHER DISH IS MADE OF THE [1] STRUNKS OF LETTUCE CRUSHED WITH +PEPPER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, [add] WATER AND OIL, AND COOK THIS; +BIND WITH EGGS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [2]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] Very much like a modern soup, puree of lettuce. + + +[131] VEGETABLE AND BRAIN PUDDING + _PATINA FRISILIS_ [1] + +TAKE VEGETABLES, CLEAN AND WASH, SHRED [2] AND COOK THEM [3] COOL THEM +OFF AND DRAIN THEM. TAKE 4 [calf's] BRAINS, REMOVE [the skin and] +STRINGS AND COOK THEM [4] IN THE MORTAR PUT 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, +MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH FINE; THEN ADD THE BRAINS, RUB AGAIN AND +MEANWHILE ADD THE VEGETABLES, RUBBING ALL THE WHILE, AND MAKE A FINE +PASTE OF IT. THEREUPON BREAK AND ADD 8 EGGS. NOW ADD A GLASSFUL [5] OF +BROTH, A GLASSFUL OF WINE, A GLASSFUL OF RAISIN WINE, TASTE THIS +PREPARATION. OIL THE BAKING DISH THOROUGHLY [put the mixture in the +dish] AND PLACE IT IN THE HOT PLATE, (THAT IS ABOVE THE HOT ASHES) [6] +AND WHEN IT IS DONE [unmould it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [7]. + + [1] List. _frictilis_; Vat. Ms. _fusilis_; G.-V. _id._; + Lan. _frisilis_. + + _Patina frisilis_ remains unexplained. None of the + various readings can be satisfactorily rendered. If the + vegetables had remained whole the dish might be compared + to a _chartreuse_, those delightful creations by the + Carthusian monks who compelled by the strictest rules of + vegetarianism evolved a number of fine vegetable dishes. + On the other hand, the poached mixture of eggs and + brains is akin to our _farces_ and _quenelles_; but in + modern cookery we have nothing just like this _patina + frisilis_. + + [2] Wanting in List. + + [3] and [4] Wanting in Tor. + + [5] _Cyathum._ + + [6] Sentence in () ex Tor. + + [7] This and some of the following recipes are + remarkable for their preciseness and completeness. + + +[132] ANOTHER COLD ASPARAGUS [and Figpecker] DISH + _ALITER PATINA DE ASPARAGIS FRIGIDA_ + +COLD ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [1] TAKE WELL CLEANED +[cooked] ASPARAGUS, CRUSH IT IN THE MORTAR, DILUTE WITH WATER AND +PRESENTLY STRAIN IT THROUGH THE COLANDER. NOW TRIM, PREPARE [i.e. cook +or roast] FIGPECKERS [2] [and hold them in readiness]. 3 [3] SCRUPLES +OF PEPPER ARE CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR, ADD BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, PUT +THIS IN A SAUCEPAN WITH 3 OUNCES OF OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY. MEANWHILE +OIL YOUR PIE MOULD, AND WITH 6 EGGS, FLAVORED WITH {OE}NOGARUM, AND +THE ASPARAGUS PREPARATION AS DESCRIBED ABOVE; THICKEN THE MIXTURE ON +THE HOT ASHES. THEREUPON ARRANGE THE FIGPECKERS IN THE MOULD, COVER +THEM WITH THIS PUREE, BAKE THE DISH. [When cold, unmould it] SPRINKLE +WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] Lan. and Tac. _ficedulas curtas tres_; Tor. _curtas_ + f.--three figpeckers cut fine. G.-V. _F. curatas. Teres + in ..._ (etc.)--Prepared _F._ + + [3] List. six; G.-V. _id._ + + +[133] ANOTHER ASPARAGUS CUSTARD + _ALIA PATINA DE ASPARAGIS_ + +ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE LIKE THIS [1] PUT IN THE MORTAR ASPARAGUS TIPS +[2] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SAVORY AND ONIONS; CRUSH, +DILUTE WITH WINE, BROTH AND OIL. PUT THIS IN A WELL-GREASED PAN, AND, +IF YOU LIKE, ADD WHILE ON THE FIRE SOME BEATEN EGGS TO IT TO THICKEN +IT, COOK [without boiling the eggs] AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY FINE +PEPPER. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] Reference to wine wanting in Tor. We add that the + asparagus should be cooked before crushing. + + +[134] A DISH OF FIELD VEGETABLES + _PATINA EX RUSTICIS_ [1] + +BY FOLLOWING THE ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY MAKE [2] A PIE OF FIELD +VEGETABLES, OR OF THYME [3] OR OF GREEN PEPPERS [4] OR OF CUCUMBERS OR +OF SMALL TENDER SPROUTS [5] SAME AS ABOVE, OR, IF YOU LIKE, MAKE ONE +UNDERLAID WITH BONELESS PIECES OF FISH OR OF CHICKEN [combined with +any of the above vegetables] [6]. + + [1] Tor. _Patina ex oleribus agrestibus_. + + [2] Tor. wanting in other texts. + + [3] Sch., G.-V. _tamnis_--wild wine; List. _cymis + cuminis_; Lan., Tac. _tinis_; Vat. Ms. _tannis_. Thyme + is hardly likely to be the chief ingredient of such a + dish; the chances are it was used for flavoring and that + the above enumerated vegetables were combined in one + dish. + + [4] List., G.-V., Goll.--mustard; Dann. green mustard. + Tor. _sive pipere viridi_--green peppers, which we + accept as correct, gastronomically at least. + + [5] Goll., Dann. cabbage, the originals have + _coliculis_--small tender sprouts on the order of + Brussels sprouts or broccoli, all belonging to the + cabbage family. + + [6] _Pulpa_--boneless pieces of meat, also fruit puree; + _pulpamentum_--dainty bits of meat. + + +[135] ELDERBERRY CUSTARD OR PIE + _PATINA DE SAMBUCO_ [1] + +A DISH OF ELDERBERRIES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] +TAKE ELDERBERRIES [3] WASH THEM; COOK IN WATER, SKIM AND STRAIN. +PREPARE A DISH IN WHICH TO COOK THE CUSTARD [4] CRUSH 6 SCRUPLES OF +PEPPER WITH A LITTLE BROTH; ADD THIS TO THE ELDERBERRY PULP WITH +ANOTHER GLASS OF BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, A GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND AS +MUCH AS 4 OUNCES OF OIL. PUT THE DISH IN THE HOT BATH AND STIR THE +CONTENTS. AS SOON AS IT IS GETTING WARM, QUICKLY BREAK 6 EGGS AND +WHIPPING THEM, INCORPORATE THEM, IN ORDER TO THICKEN THE FLUID. WHEN +THICK ENOUGH SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP. + + [1] G.-V. _Sabuco_. + + [2] Tor. wanting in other texts. + + [3] Hum. _semen de sambuco_--E. seed. + + [4] List. Place the berries in a dish; to their juice + add pepper, (etc.). + + +[136] ROSE PIE, ROSE CUSTARD OR PUDDING + _PATINA DE ROSIS_ + +TAKE ROSES FRESH FROM THE FLOWER BED, STRIP OFF THE LEAVES, REMOVE THE +WHITE [from the petals and] PUT THEM IN THE MORTAR; POUR OVER SOME +BROTH [and] RUB FINE. ADD A GLASS OF BROTH AND STRAIN THE JUICE +THROUGH THE COLANDER. [This done] TAKE 4 [cooked calf's] BRAINS, SKIN +THEM AND REMOVE THE NERVES; CRUSH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER MOISTENED WITH +THE JUICE AND RUB [with the brains]; THEREUPON BREAK 8 EGGS, ADD 1 [1] +GLASS OF WINE, 1 GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. MEANWHILE +GREASE A PAN, PLACE IT ON THE HOT ASHES [or in the hot bath] IN WHICH +POUR THE ABOVE DESCRIBED MATERIAL; WHEN THE MIXTURE IS COOKED IN THE +_BAIN MARIS_ [2] SPRINKLE IT WITH PULVERIZED PEPPER AND SERVE [3]. + + [1] List., G.-V. 1-1/2 glass. + + [2] Hot water bath. + + [3] Tor. continues {Rx} No. 135 without interruption or + caption, and describes the above recipe. He reads: _De + thoris accipies rosas_, but List. insists that _de + thoris_ be read _de rosis_; Lan., Tac. _de toris_; V. + _de thoris_ may be read "fresh from the flower bed." + + Cf. {Rx} Nos. 167 and 171 in which case the "rose" may + stand for rosy apple, or "Roman Beauty" apple. "Rose + apple" also is a small pimento, size of a plum. + + +[137] PUMPKIN PIE + _PATINA DE CUCURBITIS_ [1] + +AND PUMPKIN PIE IS MADE THUS [2] STEWED AND MASHED PUMPKIN IS PLACED +IN THE PAN [or pie dish] SEASONED WITH A LITTLE CUMIN ESSENCE. ADD A +LITTLE OIL; HEAT [bake] AND SERVE [3]. + + [1] Dann. Cucumber Dish. + + [2] Tor. Wanting in other texts. + + [3] Modern English recipes for stewed pumpkin resemble + this Apician precept, but America has made a really + palatable dish from pumpkin by the addition of eggs, + cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger--spices which the insipid + pumpkin needs. The ancient original may have omitted the + eggs because Apicius probably expected his formula to be + carried out in accordance with the preceding formulae. + Perhaps this is proven by the fact that Tor. continues + the Rose Pie recipe with _et cucurbita patina sic fiet_. + + +[138] SPRATS OR SMELTS AU VIN BLANC + _PATINA DE APUA_ [1] + +CLEAN THE SMELTS [or other small fish, filets of sole, etc. of white +meat] MARINATE [i.e. impregnate with] IN OIL, PLACE IN A SHALLOW PAN, +ADD OIL, BROTH [2] AND WINE. BUNCH [3] [fresh] RUE AND MARJORAM AND +COOK WITH THE FISH. WHEN DONE REMOVE THE HERBS, SEASON THE FISH WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [4]. + + [1] Ex List. and G.-V. wanting in Tor. + + [2] _Liquamen_, which in this case corresponds to _court + bouillon_, a broth prepared from the trimmings of the + fish, herbs, and wine, well-seasoned and reduced. + + [3] Our very own _bouquet garni_, a bunch of various + aromatic herbs, inserted during coction and retired + before serving. + + [4] Excellent formula for fish in white wine, resembling + our ways of making this fine dish. + + This again illustrates the laconic style of the ancient + author. He omitted to say that the fish, when cooked, + was placed on the service platter and that the juices + remaining in the sauce pan were tied with one or two egg + yolks, diluted with cream, or wine, or _court bouillon_, + strained and poured over the fish at the moment of + serving. This is perhaps the best method of preparing + fish with white meat of a fine texture. Pink or darker + fish do not lend themselves to this method of + preparation. + + +[139] SMELT PIE, OR, SPRAT CUSTARD + _PATINA DE ABUA SIVE APUA_ [1] + +BONELESS PIECES OF ANCHOVIES OR [other small] FISH, EITHER ROAST +[fried] BOILED, CHOP VERY FINE. FILL A CASSEROLE GENEROUSLY WITH THE +SAME [season with] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD SUFFICIENT +BROTH AND SOME OIL, AND MIX IN, ALSO ADD ENOUGH RAW EGGS SO THAT THE +WHOLE FORMS ONE SOLID MASS. NOW CAREFULLY ADD SOME SEA-NETTLES BUT +TAKE PAIN THAT THEY ARE NOT MIXED WITH THE EGGS. NOW PUT THE DISH INTO +THE STEAM SO THAT IT MAY CONGEAL [but avoid boiling] [2]. WHEN DONE +SPRINKLE WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CARRY INTO THE DINING ROOM. NOBODY +WILL BE ABLE TO TELL WHAT HE IS ENJOYING [3]. + + [1] Tac., Tor. _sic_. List., G.-V. _p. de apua sine + apua_--a dish of anchovies (or smelts) without + anchovies. Tor. formula bears the title _patina de + apua_, and his article opens with the following + sentence: _patin de abua sive apua sic facies_. He is + therefore quite emphatic that the dish is to be made + with the _abua_ or _apua_ (an anchovy) and not without + _apua_, as List. has it. Lan. calls the dish: P. _de + apabadiade_, not identified. + + [2] Tor. _impones ad uaporem ut cum ouis meare + possint_--warning, get along with the eggs, i.e. beware + of boiling them for they will curdle, and the experiment + is hopelessly lost. List. however, reads _meare possint_ + thus: _bullire p._--boil (!) It is quite plain that Tor. + has the correct formula. + + [3] _et ex esu nemo agnoscet quid manducet._ Dann. + renders this sentence thus: "Nobody can value this dish + unless he has partaken of it himself." He is too + lenient. We would rather translate it literally as we + did above, or say broadly, "And nobody will be any the + wiser." List. dwells at length upon this sentence; his + erudite commentary upon the _cena dubia_, the doubtful + meal, will be found under the heading of _cena_ in our + vocabulary. List. pp. 126-7. List. undoubtedly made the + mistake of reading _sine_ for _sive_. He therefore + omitted the _apua_ from his formula. The above boastful + sentence may have induced him to do so. + + The above is a fish forcemeat, now seldom used as an + integral dish, but still popular as a dressing for fish + or as quenelles. The modern fish forcemeat is usually + made of raw fish, cream and eggs, with the necessary + seasoning. The material is poached or cooked much in the + same manner as prescribed by the ancient recipe. + + +[140] A RICH ENTREE OF FISH, POULTRY AND SAUSAGE IN CREAM + _PATINA EX LACTE_ + +SOAK [pignolia] NUTS, DRY THEM, AND ALSO HAVE FRESH SEA-URCHINS [1] +READY. TAKE A DEEP DISH [casserole] IN WHICH ARRANGE THE FOLLOWING +THINGS [in layers]: MEDIUM-SIZED MALLOWS AND BEETS, MATURE LEEKS, +CELERY, STEWED TENDER GREEN CABBAGE, AND OTHER BOILED GREEN VEGETABLES +[2], A DISJOINTED [3] CHICKEN STEWED IN ITS OWN GRAVY, COOKED [calf's +or pig's] BRAINS, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, HARD BOILED EGGS CUT INTO HALVES, +BIG TARENTINIAN SAUSAGE [4] SLICED AND BROILED IN THE ASHES, CHICKEN +GIBLETS OR PIECES OF CHICKEN MEAT. BITS OF FRIED FISH, SEA NETTLES, +PIECES OF [stewed] OYSTERS AND FRESH CHEESE ARE ALTERNATELY PUT +TOGETHER; SPRINKLE IN BETWEEN THE NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, AND THE JUICE +AS IS COOKED FROM PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED AND SILPHIUM. THIS +ESSENCE, WHEN DONE, MIX WITH MILK TO WHICH RAW EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED +[pour this over the pieces of food in the dish] SO THAT THE WHOLE IS +THOROUGHLY COMBINED, STIFFEN IT [in the hot water bath] AND WHEN DONE +[garnish with] FRESH MUSSELS [sea-urchins, poached and chopped fine] +SPRINKLE PEPPER OVER AND SERVE. + + [1] Sea-urchins, wanting in Tor. + + [2] Sentence wanting in G.-V. + + [3] _Pullum raptum_, in most texts; G.-V. _p. + carptum_--plucked. Of course! Should _raptum_ be + translated literally? A most atrocious way of killing + fowl, to be sure, but anyone familiar with the habits of + the ancients, particularly with those of the less + educated element, should not wonder at this most bestial + fashion, which was supposed to improve the flavor of the + meat, a fashion which, as a matter of fact still + survives in the Orient, particularly in China. + + [4] Vat. Ms. _Tarentino farsos_; Tor. cooks the sausage + in the ashes--_coctos in cinere_; List. _in cinere + legendum jecinora_--chicken giblets. Lister's + explanation of the Tarentinian sausage is found in the + vocabulary, _v. Longano_. + + +[141] APICIAN DISH + _PATINA APICIANA_ [1] + +THE APICIAN DISH IS MADE THUS: TAKE SMALL PIECES OF COOKED SOW'S BELLY +[with the paps on it] PIECES OF FISH, PIECES OF CHICKEN, THE BREASTS +OF FIGPECKERS OR OF THRUSHES [slightly] COOKED, [and] WHICHEVER IS +BEST. MINCE ALL THIS VERY CAREFULLY, PARTICULARLY THE FIGPECKERS [the +meat of which is very tender]. DISSOLVE IN OIL STRICTLY FRESH EGGS; +CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE, POUR OVER SOME BROTH AND RAISIN WINE, PUT IT +IN A SAUCEPAN TO HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. AFTER YOU HAVE CUT ALL IN +REGULAR PIECES, LET IT COME TO THE BOILING POINT. WHEN DONE, RETIRE +[from the fire] WITH ITS JUICE OF WHICH YOU PUT SOME IN ANOTHER DEEP +PAN WITH WHOLE PEPPER AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. SPREAD [the ragout] OUT IN +SINGLE LAYERS WITH THIN PANCAKES IN BETWEEN; PUT IN AS MANY PANCAKES +AND LAYERS OF MEAT AS IS REQUIRED TO FILL THE DISH; PUT A FINAL COVER +OF PANCAKE ON TOP AND SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AFTER THOSE EGGS HAVE BEEN +ADDED [which serve] TO TIE THE DISH. NOW PUT THIS [mould or dish] IN A +BOILER [steamer, hot water bath, allow to congeal] AND DISH IT OUT [by +unmoulding it]. AN EXPENSIVE SILVER PLATTER WOULD ENHANCE THE +APPEARANCE OF THIS DISH MATERIALLY. + + [1] Cf. {Rx} No. 126. + + +[142] AN EVERY-DAY DISH + _PATINA QUOTIDIANA_ [1] + +PIECES OF COOKED SOW'S UDDER, PIECES OF COOKED FISH, CHICKEN MEAT AND +SIMILAR BITS, MINCE UNIFORMLY, SEASON WELL AND CAREFULLY [2]. TAKE A +METAL DISH [for a mould]. BREAK EGGS [in another bowl] AND BEAT THEM. +IN A MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY [3], WHICH CRUSH; MOISTEN +[this] WITH BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; EMPTY IT INTO +THE BOWL [with the beaten eggs, mix] AND HEAT IT [in the hot water +bath]. THEREUPON WHEN [this is] THICKENED MIX IT WITH THE PIECES OF +MEAT. NOW PREPARE [alternately] LAYERS OF STEW AND PANCAKES, +INTERSPERSED WITH OIL [in the metal mould reserved for this purpose] +UNTIL FULL, COVER WITH ONE REAL GOOD PANCAKE [4], CUT INTO IT A VENT +HOLE FOR CHIMNEY ON THE SURFACE [bake in hot water bath and when done] +TURN OUT UPSIDE DOWN INTO ANOTHER DISH. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + [1] List. _cottidiana_; G.-V. _cotidiana_. Everyday + Dish, in contrast to the foregoing Apician dish which is + more sumptuous on account of the figpeckers or thrushes. + In the originals these two formulae are rolled into one. + Cf. {Rx} No. 128. + + [2] G.-V. _Haec omnia concides_; Tor. _condies_; List. + _condies lege concides_ which we dispute. + _Condies_--season, flavor--is more correct in this + place; _concides_--mince--is a repetition of what has + been said already. + + [3] Origany wanting in G.-V. + + [4] List. _superficie versas in discum insuper in + superficium pones_; Sch. _a superficie versas indusium + super focum pones_; G.-V. _in discum_; Tor. _unum uero + laganum fistula percuties a superficie uersas in discum + in superficiem praeterea pones_--which we have translated + literally above, as we believe Tor. to be correct in + this important matter of having a chimney on top of such + a pie. + + +[143] NUT CUSTARD TURN-OVER [1] + _PATINA VERSATILIS VICE DULCIS_ + +PIGNOLIA NUTS, CHOPPED OR BROKEN NUTS [other varieties] ARE CLEANED +AND ROASTED AND CRUSHED WITH HONEY. MIX IN [beat well] PEPPER, BROTH, +MILK, EGGS, A LITTLE HONEY [2] AND OIL. [Thicken slowly on fire +without boiling, fill in moulds, taking care that the nuts do not sink +to the bottom, bake in hot water bath, when cold unmould]. + + [1] Practically the only recipe in Apicius fairly + resembling a modern "dessert." This is practically a + repetition of {Rx} No. 129, which see. + + [2] Tor. _modico melle_; List. _m. mero_--pure wine and + also pure honey, i.e. thick honey for sweetening. Wine + would be out of place here. This is an excellent example + of nut custard, if the "pepper" and the "broth" + (_liquamen_), of the original, in other words spices and + brine, or salt, be used very sparingly. For "pepper" + nutmeg or allspice may be substituted, as is used today + in such preparations. The oil seems superfluous, but it + is taking the place of our butter. This very incomplete + formula is characteristic because of the absence of + weights and measures and other vital information as to + the manipulation of the materials. None but an + experienced practitioner could make use of this formula + in its original state. + + Goll. adds toasted raisins, for which there is no + authority. + + The text now proceeds without interruption to the next + formula. + + +[144] TYROTARICA [1] + _PATELLA THIROTARICA_ [2] + +TAKE ANY KIND OF SALT FISH [3] COOK [fry or broil it] IN OIL, TAKE THE +BONES OUT, SHRED IT [and add] PIECES OF COOKED BRAINS, PIECES OF +[other, fresh (?)] FISH, MINCED CHICKEN LIVERS [4] AND [cover with] +HOT SOFT [i.e. liquefied] CHEESE. HEAT ALL THIS IN A DISH; [meanwhile] +GRIND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDS OF RUE WITH WINE, HONEY WINE AND +OIL; COOK ALL ON A SLOW FIRE; BIND [this sauce] WITH RAW EGGS; ARRANGE +[the fish, etc.]. PROPERLY [incorporate with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH +CRUSHED CUMIN AND SERVE [5]. + + [1] G.-V., List., Vat. Ms. _Thyrotarnica_; cf. notes to + {Rx} Nos. 427, 428. + + [2] Tor. + + [3] Tor. Wanting in other texts. + + [4] List., G.-V. here add hard boiled eggs, which is + permissible, gastronomically. + + [5] Modern fish _au gratin_ is made in a similar way. + Instead of this wine sauce a spiced cream sauce and + grated cheese are mixed with the bits of cooked fish, + which is then baked in the dish. + + Brains, chicken, etc., too, are served _au gratin_, but + a combination of the three in one dish is no longer + practiced. However, the Italian method of baking fish, + etc., _au gratin a l'Italienne_ contains even more herbs + and wine reduction than the above formula. + + +[145] SALT FISH BALLS IN WINE SAUCE [1] + _PATELLA ARIDA_ [2] + +DRY PIECES OF SALT TURSIO [3] ARE BONED, CLEANED [soaked in water, +cooked] SHREDDED FINE AND SEASONED WITH GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, +ORIGANY, PARSLEY, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RUE SEEDS AND DRY MINT. MAKE FISH +BALLS OUT OF THIS MATERIAL AND POACH THE SAME IN WINE, BROTH AND OIL; +AND WHEN COOKED, ARRANGE THEM IN A DISH. THEN MAKE A SAUCE [utilizing +the broth, the _court bouillon_ in which the balls were cooked] SEASON +WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, ONIONS AND WINE AND VINEGAR, ALSO ADD +BROTH AND OIL AS NEEDED, BIND WITH ROUX [4] [pour over the balls] +SPRINKLE WITH THYME AND GROUND PEPPER [5]. + + [1] Reminding us of the Norwegian _fiske boller_ in wine + sauce, a popular commercial article found canned in + delicatessen stores. + + [2] List. _patella sicca_--dry, perhaps because made of + dried fish. + + [3] List. _isicia de Tursione_; G.-V. _Thursione_. + Probably a common sturgeon, or porpoise, or dolphin. + List. describes it as "a kind of salt fish from the + Black Sea; a malicious fish with a mouth similar to a + rabbit"; Dann. thinks it is a sturgeon, but in Goll. it + appears as tunny. The ancients called the sturgeon + _acipenser_; but this name was gradually changed into + _styrio_, _stirio_ and _sturio_, which is similar to + _tursio_ (cf. _styrio_ in the vocabulary). The fish in + question therefore may have been sturgeon for which the + Black Sea is famous. + + [4] List., G.-V. _ovis obligabis_--tie with + eggs--certainly preferable to the Tor. version. + + [5] Tor. thyme. + + The above is an excellent way of making fish balls, it + being taken for granted, of course, that the salt fish + be thoroughly soaked and cooked in milk before shaping + into balls. The many spices should be used very + moderately, some to be omitted entirely. We read between + the lines of the old formula that the _Tursio_ had a + long journey from Pontus to Rome; fish however dry + acquires a notorious flavor upon such journeys which + must be offset by herbs and spices. + + It is quite possible that the ancients made a + _reduction_ of the herbs and spices mentioned in this + formula; in fact, the presence of vinegar leads us to + believe this, in which case this formula would be + nothing but a very modern sauce. The herbs and spices in + a _reduction_ are crushed and boiled down in vinegar and + wine, and strained off, they leave their finest flavor + in the sauce. + + +[146] VEGETABLE DINNER + _PATELLA EX OLISATRO_ [1] + +[Any kind of vegetables or herbs] BLANCHED OFF IN WATER WITH [a +little] SODA; SQUEEZE [out the water] ARRANGE IN A SAUCEPAN. GRIND +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION WITH WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND +OIL; ADD [this] TO THE VEGETABLES, STEW [all until nearly done] AND +TIE WITH ROUX. SPRINKLE WITH THYME, FINELY GROUND PEPPER AND SERVE. +ANY KIND OF VEGETABLE [2] MAY BE PREPARED IN THE ABOVE MANNER, IF YOU +WISH. + + [1] Wanting in Tac. and Tor. G.-V. _patellam ex + holisatro_. + + [2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this + recipe entirely and that Tor. concludes the preceding + formula with the last sentence of the above formula, + except for the difference in one word. Tor. _et de + quacunque libra_ [List. _et al._ _herba_] _si volueris + facies ut demonstratum est supra_. This might mean that + it is optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the + fish into one pound loaves instead of the small fish + balls, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as + in veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie. + + We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for + the above way of preparing "any kind of vegetables or + herbs" is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, the + vegetable dish would more properly belong in Book III. + + Just another example of where readings by various + editors are different because of the interpretations of + one word. In this case one group reads _libra_ whereas + the other reads _herba_. + + +[147] A DISH OF SARDINES + _PATELLA DE APUA_ [1] + +SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE +SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half +of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH +[the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the +remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a +slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A +WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_, + fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies, + sardines, sprats. + + In experimenting with this formula we would advise to + use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no + knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our + making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as + quickly as possible after the fish has left the water, + for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our + modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, + and similar smoked and processed fish, contain + sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an + omelette. + + [2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Tor. _cum aqua_; List., G.-V. _cum apua_. Perhaps a + typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to + dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already + prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for + that purpose. + + [4] Tor. _et in calore {oe}nogarum perfundes_; List., + G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long + enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version + because an omelette should have no or very little color + from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible) + and because hot _{oe}nogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in + List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional + savour and a finishing touch. + + +[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON + _PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_ + +THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or +chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf's or +pig's] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK +CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID +MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND +PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT +STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX. + + [1] G.-V. _lagitis_; Tor. _laridis_ and _largitis_; Vat. + Ms. _lagatis_; List. _pro lagitis ... legendum + Lacertis_. The _lacertus_, according to List., is a much + esteemed salt fish; not identified. List. _et al._ seem + to be mistaken in their reading of _lacertis_ for + _laridis_. This work stands for salt pork, from + _laridum_ and _lardum_ (French, _lard_; the English + _lard_ is applied to the rendered fat of pork in + general). Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 41. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] _oua dura_; Sch. _o. dua_--two eggs. + + [4] This formula would be intelligible and even + gastronomically correct were it not for this word + "fish." However, we cannot accept Lister's reading + _lacertis_. We prefer the reading, _laridis_, bacon. The + French have another term for this--_petits sales_. Both + this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are + simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again + refers in the above formula, _salsum, coctum in media + pones_--put the bacon, when done, in the center (of the + dish). Regarding _salsum_ also see note to {Rx} No. 41. + + The above dish resembles _ragout fin en coquille_, a + popular Continental dish, although its principal + ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains. + + +[149] BROILED MULLET + _PATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS_ [1] + +A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET PLACED IN A CLEAN +PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a +dash of honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] List., G.-V. _mullorum loco salsi_--salt mullet. + + [2] Tor. wanting in other texts. + + [3] List. _liquamen_--broth, brine, which would be worse + than carrying owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the + mullet if it be what List. says, _loco salsi_--salted on + the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea shore, requires + soaking to extract the salt. + + +[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISH + _PATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET_ [1] + +ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF CURED [3] FISH, +CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH +SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or +bacon--_petits sales_] OVER THE CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT, +ADD A DASH OF HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5]. + + [1] Ex Tor.; G.-V. _P. piscium loco salsi_. + + [2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Tor. _duratos_--_hard_--no sense here, probably a + misprint of the d. List. _curatos_--carefully treated, + "cured," processed. + + [4] _Salsum coctum_, cf. notes to {Rx} No. 148; Goll., + Dann.--sprinkle [the fish] with salt.... Like Lister's + error in the preceding formula it would be a great + blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated + with salt to the utmost. Cf. also note 2 to {Rx} Nos. + 41, 148. + + [5] Virtually a repetition of {Rx} No. 149, except for + the addition of the pork. + + +[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONS + _ALIA PISCIUM PATINA_ + +ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY KIND OF FISH AND PLACE +IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS +[shallots] OR WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. ADD +STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED BACON IN THE CENTER, +GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR, SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND +GARNISH WITH [the] ONIONS. + + [1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[152] A LUCRETIAN DISH + _PATINA LUCRETIANA_ [1] + +CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A +SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED +[with the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions]. +WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] A LITTLE VINEGAR AND +REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO +SALTY, ADD MORE HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5]. + + [1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuraeus, a contemporary + of Cicero. List. _ab authore cui in usu fuit sic + appellata_. + + [2] G.-V. _concides_. Not necessary. + + [3] _salsum crudum_--salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured + bacon. Dann. raw salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of + course! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 41, 147, 149. + + [4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own + use of sugar to glaze ham or bacon, and of the molasses + added to pork (and beans). + + [5] G.-V. _coronam bubulam_. In experimenting with this + formula omit salt completely. Instead of honey we have + also added maple syrup once. To make this a perfect + luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore + added sliced raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to + make it a balanced meal, by way of improving upon + Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have, + on a different occasion, created another version by + added sliced dasheens (_colocasia_, cf. {Rx} Nos. 74, + 216, 244, 322). It is surprising that the ancients who + used the _colocasium_ extensively did not combine it + with the above dish. + + +[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISH + _PATINA DE LACERTIS_ [1] + +CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] BREAK AND BEAT +EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON +THE FIRE, WHEN COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO +IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4]. + + [1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V. _P. de lagitis_; cf. + note to {Rx} No. 148. + + [2] Remembering that List. reads _lagitis_ for + _lacertis_, this formula appears to be an antique + "Scrambled Eggs and Bacon." Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 42, + 148-150. + + [3] _Oenogarum_, cf. {Rx} No. 147, the Sardine Omelette. + + [4] To cook the eggs as described above would be + disastrous. The fish, if such was used, was probably + first poached in the broth, wine and oil, and when done, + removed from the pan. The _fond_, or remaining juice or + gravy, was subsequently tied with the egg yolks, and + this sauce was strained over the fish dressed on the + service platter, the _{oe}nogarum_ sparingly sprinkled + over the finished dish. This would closely resemble our + modern _au vin blanc_ fish dishes; the _{oe}nogarum_ + taking the place of our meat glace. + + Another interpretation of this vexatious formula is that + if fish was used, the cooked fish was incorporated with + the raw beaten eggs which were then scrambled in the + pan. In that event this formula resembles closely the + sardine omelette. + + +[154] A FISH STEW + _PATINA ZOMORE_ [1] + +THE ZOMORE FISH DISH IS MADE AS FOLLOWS [2] TAKE RAW GANONAS [3] AND +OTHER [fish] WHICHEVER YOU LIKE, PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING +OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A BUNCH [4] OF LEEKS AND [green] CORIANDER; +WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A BUNCH OF ORIGANY WHICH +CRUSH BY ITSELF AND DILUTE WITH THE JUICE [5] OF THE FISH. NOW +DISSOLVE [break and beat egg yolks for a _liaison_] PREPARE AND TASTE +THE DISH, BINDING [the sauce with the yolks] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + [1] List. _Zomoteganite_--"a dish of fish boiled in + their own liquor"; G.-V. _zomoteganon_; Lan. + _zomoreganonas_; Vat. Ms. _zomonam Ganas_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] _ganonas crudas_--an unidentified fish. + + [4] "Bouquet garni." + + [5] _ius de suo sibi_--old Plautian latinity. Cf. H. C. + Coote, cit. Apiciana; the proof of the antiquity and the + genuineness of Apicius. + + +[155] SOLE IN WHITE WINE + _PATINA EX SOLEIS_ [1] + +A DISH OF SOLE IS THUS MADE [2] BEAT THE SOLE [3] PREPARE [4] AND +PLACE THEM IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, AND +POACH THEM THUS; NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND ADD OF THE FISH +JUICE; THEN BIND THE SAUCE WITH RAW EGGS [yolks] TO MAKE A GOOD CREAMY +SAUCE OF IT; STRAIN THIS OVER THE SOLE, HEAT ALL ON A SLOW FIRE [to +fill it with live heat] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [5]. + + [1] G.-V. _P. solearum_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Beat, to make tender, to be able to remove the skin. + + [4] Tor. _curatos_--trim, skin, remove entrails, wash. + + [5] One of the best of Apician accomplishments. Exactly + like our modern _sole au vin blanc_, one of the most + aristocratic of dishes. Cf. {Rx} No. 487, Excerpta, XIX. + + +[155a] FISH LIQUOR + _PATINA EX PISCIBUS_ + +A LIQUOR [in which to cook fish] IS MADE BY TAKING [1] ONE OUNCE OF +PEPPER, ONE PINT OF REDUCED WINE, ONE PINT OF SPICED WINE AND TWO +OUNCES OF OIL. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[156] A DISH OF LITTLE FISH + _PATINA DE PISCICULIS_ [1] + +TAKE RAISINS, PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, WINE, BROTH AND OIL, +PLACE THIS IN A PAN; AFTER THIS HAS COOKED ADD TO IT THE COOKED SMALL +FISH, BIND WITH ROUX AND SERVE. + + [1] Smelts, anchovies, whitebait. + + +[157] A DISH OF TOOTH FISH, DORY OR SEA MULLET AND OYSTERS + _PATINA DE PISCIBUS DENTICE, AURATA ET MUGILE_ [1] + +TAKE THE FISH, PREPARE [clean, trim, wash] AND HALF BROIL OR FRY THEM; +THEREUPON SHRED THEM [in good-sized] PIECES: NEXT PREPARE OYSTERS; PUT +IN A MORTAR 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH. ADD A +SMALL GLASS OF BROTH, ONE OF WINE TO IT; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN 3 OUNCES +OF OIL AND THE [shelled] OYSTERS AND LET THEM POACH WITH WINE SAUCE. +WHEN THEY ARE DONE, OIL A DISH ON WHICH PLACE THE ABOVE MENTIONED FISH +PIECES AND STEWED OYSTERS, HEAT AGAIN, AND WHEN HOT, BREAK 40 [2] EGGS +[whip them] AND POUR THEM OVER THE OYSTERS, SO THAT THEY CONGEAL. +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [3]. + + [1] _dentex_--"tooth-fish"; _aurata_--"gilt"--dory, red + snapper; _mugilis_--Sea Mullet, according to some. + + [2] G.-V. _ova XI_--11 eggs. Tac. _ova Xl_, which may be + read XL--forty. + + [3] This dish may be allowed to congeal slowly; if done + quickly it may become a dish of scrambled eggs with fish + and oysters. + + +[158] SEA BASS, OR BARRACUDA + _PATINA DE LUPO_ [1] + +GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE +AND DROPS OF OIL [2]. + + [1] G.-V. _p. de pisce lupo_--wolf, because of its + voracity; a sea fish, sea pike, or sea bass; perhaps + akin to our barracuda, wolfish both in appearance and + character. Sch. _Perca labrax_ Lin. + + [2] The cleaned fish is cut into convenient portions or + fillets, placed in an oiled pan, the ingredients spread + over; it is either poached in the oven or cooked under + the open fire. + + Schuch here inserts his {Rx} Nos. 153 to 166 which more + properly belong among the Excerpta of Vinidarius and + which are found at the end Book X by Apicius. + + +[159] A DISH OF SORB-APPLE, HOT OR COLD + _PATINA DE SORBIS CALIDA ET FRIGIDA_ + +TAKE MEDLARS, CLEAN THEM; CRUSH THEM IN THE MORTAR AND STRAIN THROUGH +COLANDER. 4 COOKED [calf's or pork] BRAINS, SKINNED AND FREED FROM +STRINGY PARTS, PUT IN THE MORTAR WITH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, DILUTE +WITH STOCK AND CRUSH, ADDING THE MEDLAR PULP AND COMBINE ALL; NOW +BREAK 8 EGGS AND ADD A SMALL GLASS OF BROTH. OIL A CLEAN PAN AND PLACE +IT IN THE HOT BATH OR IN THE HOT ASHES; AFTER YOU HAVE FILLED IT WITH +THE PREPARATION, MAKE SURE THAT THE PAN GETS ENOUGH HEAT FROM BELOW; +LET IT CONGEAL, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE FINE PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + Sch. {Rx} No. 166. + + +[160] A DISH OF PEACHES [1] + _PATINA DE PERSICIS_ + +CLEAN HARD-SKINNED PEACHES AND SLICE, STEW THEM; ARRANGE IN A DISH, +SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE WITH CUMIN-FLAVORED WINE [2]. + + [1] Tor. is not sure whether this is a Persian fish or + peaches--_persica_. + + [2] Dann. Pepper, for which there is no authority. + + Sch. {Rx} No. 167. + + +[161] A DISH OF PEARS + _PATINA DE PIRIS_ + +A DISH OF PEARS IS MADE THIS WAY: [1] STEW THE PEARS, CLEAN OUT THE +CENTER [remove core and seeds] CRUSH THEM WITH PEPPER, CUMIN, HONEY, +RAISIN WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; MIX WITH EGGS, MAKE A PIE +[custard] OF THIS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + Sch. {Rx} No. 168. + + +[162] A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES + _PATINA DE URTICA_ [1] + +A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE THUS: [2] TAKE +SEA-NETTLES, WASH AND DRAIN THEM ON THE COLANDER, DRY ON THE TABLE AND +CHOP FINE. CRUSH 10 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD 2 +SMALL GLASSES OF BROTH AND 6 OUNCES OF OIL. HEAT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN +AND WHEN COOKED TAKE IT OUT AND ALLOW TO COOL OFF. NEXT OIL A CLEAN +PAN, BREAK 8 EGGS AND BEAT THEM; COMBINE THESE WITH THE ABOVE +PREPARATIONS, PLACE THE PAN ON HOT ASHES TO GIVE IT HEAT FROM BELOW, +WHEN DONE [congealed] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _p. urticarum calida et frigida_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[163] A DISH OF QUINCES + _PATINA DE CYDONIIS_ [1] + +A DISH OF QUINCES IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [2] QUINCES ARE COOKED WITH +LEEKS, HONEY AND BROTH, USING HOT OIL, OR THEY ARE STEWED IN HONEY +[3]. + + [1] G.-V. _p. de Cydoneis_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] This latter method would appeal to our modern notion + of preparing fruits of this sort; we use sugar syrup to + cook them in and flavor with various spices, adding + perhaps a little wine or brandy. + + + +III + +OF FINELY CHOPPED, MINCED MEATS + _DE MINUT ALIBUS_ [1] + + +[164] A MINCE OF SEA FOOD + _MINUTAL MARINUM_ + +PLACE THE FISH IN SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH OIL AND WINE [and poach it]. +ALSO FINELY CHOP LEEK HEADS [the white part only of leeks] AND [fresh] +CORIANDER. [When cool, mince the fish fine] FORM IT INTO SMALL CAKES +[2] ADDING CAPERS [3] AND SEA-NETTLES WELL CLEANED. THESE FISH CAKES +COOK IN A LIQUOR OF PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, CRUSHED, DILUTED WITH +BROTH AND THE ABOVE FISH LIQUOR WHICH SKIM WELL, BIND [with roux or +eggs] STIR [strain] OVER THE CAKES, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _minutal de piscibus vel Isiciis_. + + [2] Tac. G.-V. _isiciola ... minuta_--resembling our + modern _quenelles de poisson_--tiny fish dumplings. + + [3] Tac. _cum caparis_; Tor. _c. capparibus_; Vat. Ms. + _concarpis_; List. G.-V. _concerpis_. + + +[165] TARENTINE MINUTAL + _MINUTAL TARENTINUM_ [1] + +FINELY CHOP THE WHITE PART OF LEEKS AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL +[fry lightly] AND BROTH; NEXT ADD SMALL SAUSAGE TO BE COOKED LIKEWISE. +TO HAVE A GOOD TARENTINE DISH, THEY MUST BE TENDER. THE MAKING OF +THESE SAUSAGE WILL BE FOUND AMONG THE ISICIA [Nos. 60-66] [2]. ALSO +MAKE A SAUCE IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND +ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD OF THE ABOVE [sausage] GRAVY, WINE, +RAISIN WINE; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN TO BE HEATED, WHEN BOILING, SKIM +CAREFULLY, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Terentinum_, for which there is no reason. + Tarentum, town of lower Italy, now Taranto, celebrated + for its wine and luxurious living. + + [2] Such references to other parts of the book are very + infrequent. + + +[166] APICIAN MINUTAL + _MINUTAL APICIANUM_ + +THE APICIAN MINUTAL IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [1] OIL, BROTH WINE, LEEK +HEADS, MINT, SMALL FISH, SMALL TIDBITS [2] COCK'S FRIES OR CAPON'S +KIDNEYS [3] AND PORK SWEETBREADS; ALL OF THESE ARE COOKED TOGETHER [4] +NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, OR SEEDS, MOISTENED WITH +BROTH; ADD A LITTLE HONEY, AND OF THE OWN LIQUOR [5] OF THE ABOVE +MORSELS, WINE AND HONEY TO TASTE; BRING THIS TO A BOILING POINT SKIM, +BIND, STIR WELL [strain, pour over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE [6]. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [2] _isitia_--_quenelles_, dumplings of some kind, + mostly fine forcemeats. + + [3] _testiculi caponum_; the capon has no _testiculi_, + these organs having been removed by an operation when + the cock is young. This operation is said to have been + first performed by a Roman surgeon with the intention of + beating the _Lex Fannia_, or Fannian law, sponsored by a + fanatic named Fannius. It prohibited among other + restrictions the serving of any fowl at any time or + repast except a hen, and this hen was not to be + fattened. Note the cunning of the law: The useful hen + and her unlaid eggs could be sacrificed while the + unproductive rooster was allowed to thrive to no + purpose, immune from the butcher's block. This set the + shrewd surgeon to thinking; he transformed a rooster + into a capon by his surgical trick. The emasculated bird + grew fat without his owner committing any infraction of + the Roman law against fattening chickens. Of course the + capon, being neither hen nor rooster, was perfectly safe + to eat, for he was within the law. Thus he became a huge + success as an ancient "bootleg" chicken. + + [4] These integral parts must be prepared and poached + separately and merely heated together before the final + service. + + [5] Again the Plautian colloquialism _ius de suo sibi_. + + [6] This dish is worthy of Apicius. It is akin to our + _Ragout Financiere_, and could pass for _Vol-au-vent a + la Financiere_ if it were served in a large fluffy crust + of puff paste. + + +[167] MINUTAL A LA MATIUS [1] + _MINUTAL MATIANUM_ + +PUT IN A SAUCE PAN OIL, BROTH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS, CORIANDER, SMALL +TID-BITS, COOKED PORK SHOULDER, CUT INTO LONG STRIPS INCLUDING THE +SKIN, HAVE EVERYTHING EQUALLY HALF DONE. ADD MATIAN APPLES [2] +CLEANED, THE CORE REMOVED, SLICED LENGTHWISE AND COOK THEM TOGETHER: +MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, OR SEEDS, MINT, LASER +ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH AND A LITTLE REDUCED +MUST, ADD TO THIS THE BROTH OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, VINEGAR TO TASTE, +BOIL, SKIM, BIND [strain over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + [1] Named for Matius, ancient author, or because of the + Matian apples used in this dish, also named for the same + man. Plinius, Nat. Hist. lib. XV, Cap. 14-15, Columella, + De re Rustica, lib. XII, Cap. XLIIII. + + This is not the first instance where fruits or + vegetables were named for famous men. Beets, a certain + kind of them were named for Varro, writer on + agriculture. Matius, according to Varro, wrote a book on + waiters, cooks, cellar men and food service in general, + of which there is no trace today. It was already lost + during Varro's days. + + [2] Cf. note 1, above. This illustrates the age-old + connection of pork and apples. + + +[168] SWEET MINUTAL + _MINUTAL DULCE_ [1] + +IN A SAUCE PAN PUT TOGETHER OIL, BROTH, COCTURA [2] FINELY CUT LEEK +HEADS AND GREEN CORIANDER, COOKED PORK SHOULDER, SMALL TID-BITS. WHILE +THIS IS BEING COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER OR [its] SEEDS, +GREEN RUE, LASER ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND THE +GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS; ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE: WHEN THIS [sauce] IS +COOKED, HOLLOW OUT CITRON SQUASH [3] CUT IN DICE, BOIL AND PLACE THEM +TOGETHER WITH THE REST IN THE DISH, SKIM, BIND [strain] THE SAUCE +[pour it over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _m. ex citriis_. + + [2] At this late point Apicius commences to use the term + _coctura_ which does not designate any particular + ingredient but rather stands for a certain process of + cookery, depending upon the ingredients used in the + dish. We would here interpret it as the frying of the + leeks in oil, etc. In another instance _coctura_ may + mean our modern _reduction_. + + [3] The fruit to be used here has not been + satisfactorily identified. The texts have _citrium_ and + _citrum_--a sweet squash or cucumber--perhaps even a + melon, but not the citron, the _mala citrea_ as read by + List. This specimen is hard to identify because of the + many varieties in the cucumber, squash and the citrus + families. _Citrus_, as a matter of fact, is but a + corruption of _cedrus_, the cedar tree. + + We are not sure whether this fruit is to be stuffed with + the ragout and then baked, as is often the custom to do + with such shells; the texts prescribes distinctly to + hollow out the fruit. + + The title, implying a "sweet dish" is obviously wrong. + + It may be remarked here that Apicius makes no mention of + that marvelous citrus fruit, the lemon, nor of the + orange, both of which are indispensable to modern + cookery. + + +[169] MINUTAL OF FRUIT + _MINUTAL EX PRAECOQUIS_ + +IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY CUT SHALLOTS, DICED +COOKED PORK SHOULDER. WHEN THIS IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, DRY +MINT, DILL, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] A LITTLE +VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, ADD FRUITS THE SEEDS +OF WHICH HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT, LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, SKIM, +BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [1]. + + [1] This, rather than {Rx} No. 168, deserves the title, + Sweet Minutal, for it is practically the same, with the + addition of the fruit. + + +[170] MINUTAL OF HARE'S LIVERS + _MINUTAL LEPORINUM_ + +THE WAY TO MAKE A MINUTAL OF HARE'S GIBLETS MAY BE FOUND AMONG THE +HARE RECIPES [1]. + +[170a] IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY CUT SHALLOTS, +DICED COOKED PORK SHOULDER. WHEN THIS IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, +DRY MINT, DILL, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] A LITTLE +VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, ADD SEEDLESS FRUITS, +LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, SKIM, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + [1] {Rx} No. 386, Book VIII is one of these recipes. + This is one of the few instances where the ancient + original makes any reference to any other part of the + Apicius book.* After this bare reference, the original + proceeds to repeat the text of the preceding formula + verbatim. + + * Cf. {Rx} No. 165. + + Brandt suggests a new title for [170a] ANOTHER SWEET + MINUTAL. + + The G.-V. version differs but little from {Rx} No. 169. + + +[171] RED APPLE MINUTAL + _MINUTAL EX ROSIS_ [1] + +MAKE THIS THE SAME WAY AS DESCRIBED IN THE FOREGOING, ONLY ADD MORE +RAISIN WINE. + + [1] List. Roses; Tor. _Rosatium_; this term, medieval + Latin, does not exist in the ancient language. + + Sch. _mala rosea_--rosy or red apple, most likely to be + the correct interpretation. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 136 and 167. + + The above title has led to the belief that the ancients + made pies, etc., of roses, an idea that was much + ridiculed in England after the publication of Lister's + work in 1705. + + We concur with Schuch's interpretation that rosy apples + were used, remembering, however, that the fruit of the + rose tree, the hip, dog-briar, eglantine is also made + into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is + therefore entirely possible that this recipe calls for + the fruit of the rose tree. + + + +IV + +GRUELS + _TISANAM VEL SUCUM_ + + +[172] BARLEY BROTH, PAP, PORRIDGE, GRUEL + _TISANA SIVE CREMORE_ [1] + +CRUSH BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY BEFORE, WELL WASHED, PLACE ON THE FIRE +TO BE COOKED [in a double boiler] WHEN HOT ADD ENOUGH OIL, A BUNCH OF +DILL, DRY ONION, SATURY AND COLOCASIUM [2] TO BE COOKED TOGETHER +BECAUSE FOR THE BETTER JUICE, ADD GREEN CORIANDER AND A LITTLE SALT; +BRING IT TO A BOILING POINT. WHEN DONE TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [of dill] +AND TRANSFER THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER KETTLE TO AVOID STICKING TO THE +BOTTOM AND BURNING, MAKE IT LIQUID [by addition of water, broth, milk] +STRAIN INTO A POT, COVERING THE TOPS OF THE COLOCASIA. NEXT CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND SYLPHIUM [3] STIR IT +WELL AND ADD VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND BROTH; PUT IT BACK INTO THE +POT, THE REMAINING COLOCASIA FINISH ON A GENTLE FIRE [4]. + + [1] Tor. _ptisana siue Cremore_. + + [2] G.-V. _Col{oe}fium_; Tor. _col{oe}sium_ and + _colesium_ (the different readings perhaps on account of + the similarity of the "long" s with the f). Tor. spells + this word differently every time he is confronted with + it. Tac., Lan. _coledium_--unidentified. List. + _colocasium_, which see in notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 200, + 216, 244, and 322, also Sch. p. 95. + + [3] List. _sil frictum_; Tor. _silphium f._ + + [4] Tor. continuing without interruption. This formula + is reported in {Rx} No. 200. + + +[173] ANOTHER TISANA + _TISANA TARICHA_ [1] + +THE CEREAL [2] IS SOAKED; CHICKPEAS, LENTILS AND PEAS ARE CRUSHED AND +BOILED WITH IT; WHEN WELL COOKED, ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREEN +HERBS, LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE +STRUNKS, ALL SOFT AND GREEN AND FINELY CUT, AND PUT IN A POT. THE +CABBAGE COOK [separately. Also] CRUSH FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, SYLPHIUM +AND LOVAGE, AND WHEN CRUSHED, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER THE +PORRIDGE, STIR IT TOGETHER AND USE SOME FINELY CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS +TO SPRINKLE ON TOP [2]. + + [1] Variants: _barrica_, _farrica_; List. _legendum, + puto, Taricam; id. est Salsam_. Cf. {Rx} 144, 149, + 426-8. Lan., Tor., G.-V. _barricam_, not identified. + Sch. _farrica_--corn spelt; probably not far from the + mark. We would venture to suggest that our "farina" is + the thing here used, or any ordinary corn meal. + + [2] This formula is repeated in {Rx} No. 201. + + + +V + +HORS D'{OE}UVRES, APPETIZERS, RELISHES + _GUSTUM_ + + +[174] "MOVEABLE" APPETIZERS + _GUSTUM VERSATILE_ + +THE MOVEABLE [1] APPETIZERS ARE THUS MADE: [2] SMALL WHITE BEETS, +MATURE LEEKS, CELERY ROOTS [3] STEWED COCKLES [4] GINGER [5] CHICKEN +GIBLETS, SMALL FOWL [6] SMALL MORSELS COOKED IN THEIR OWN LIQUOR [7]. +OIL A PAN, LINE IT WITH MALLOW LEAVES AND A COMPOSITION OF DIFFERENT +VEGETABLES, AND, IF YOU HAVE ROOM ENOUGH, BULBS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, +SNAILS, TID-BITS [8] SHORT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE SLICED; ADD BROTH, OIL, +WINE, VINEGAR PUT ON THE FIRE TO HEAT AND SO COOK THEM. MEANWHILE +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, A LITTLE TARRAGON, MOISTEN IT AND LET IT +COOK. BREAK SEVERAL EGGS IN A DISH, USE THE REMAINING LIQUOR IN THE +MORTAR TO MIX IT WITH THE SAUCE IN THE DISH AND TO BIND IT. WHEN THIS +IS DONE, MAKE A WINE SAUCE FOR IT AS FOLLOWS: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +MOISTENED WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE TO TASTE; IN A SMALL SAUCE PAN PUT A +LITTLE OIL [with the other ingredients] HEAT, AND BIND WITH ROUX WHEN +HOT. NOW [unmould] UPSET THE DISH ON A PLATTER, REMOVE THE MALLOW +LEAVES, POUR OVER THE WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [9]. + + [1] Moveable, either because it is one show piece that + is carried from one guest to another, or, as here + indicated, a dish that is to be unmoulded or turned out + of its mould or pan before service. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Celery roots, i.e. the thick bulbs. G.-V. _apios, + bulbos_--celery, onions; note the comma after _apios_. + + [4] Periwinkles, also snails. + + [5] Tac., Lan. _gingibera_; Tor. _zinziber_; Vat. Ms. + _gibera_; G.-V. _Gigeria_; Hum. _id._--giblets. Wanting + in List. + + [6] List. _avicellas_; Vat. Ms. _aucellare_ and + _scellas_; Tac., Lan. _id._; Tor. _pullorum + axillas_--chicken wings (?); G.-V. _ascellas_. + + [7] _ex iure._ + + [8] _isitia_--quenelles of forcemeat, etc. + + [9] An extremely complicated composition of varied + morsels, definite instructions lacking, however. It is + not clear whether the dish was served hot (in which case + the dish would not stand up long) or whether served + cold, jellyfied. Moreover, the title _gustum_--_hors + d'{oe}uvres_--is not consistent either with similar + creations by Apicius or with our own notions of such + dishes. This title may merely suggest that such a dish + was to be served at the beginning of a repast. This + recipe presents an instance of the difficulty to render + the text and its variants in a manner acceptable to our + modern palates. + + We are of the opinion that the above recipe is a + contraction of two or more formulae, each of which, + separately, might make acceptable hot appetizers. + + +[175] VEGETABLE RELISH [1] + _GUSTUM DE OLERIBUS_ [2] + +FOR THIS VEGETABLE DISH BOIL BULBS [3] [in] BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; WHEN +DONE [add] LIVER OF SUCKLING PIG [4] CHICKEN LIVERS AND FEET AND SMALL +BIRDS [5] CUT IN HALVES, ALL TO BE COOKED WITH THE BULBS. WHEN DONE, +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE TO +SWEETEN IT. ADD OF THE OWN LIQUOR OF THE MORSELS, RETIRE THE ONIONS, +WHEN DONE [group the morsels together in the service dish] BIND [the +sauce] WITH ROUX IN THE LAST MOMENT [strain over the morsels] AND +SERVE. + + [1] An entremet of fowl and livers. + + [2] a misnomer, as vegetables play the least part in + this dish. + + [3] Onions, etc. + + [4] _jecinora porcelli_; Sch. _iscinera porcellum_. + + [5] Tor. _axillas_ and _scellas_; see note 6 to {Rx} + 174. + + +[176] STUFFED PUMPKIN FRITTERS + _GUSTUM DE CUCURBITIS FARSILIBUS_ + +A DISH OF STUFFED PUMPKIN [1] IS MADE THUS: [2] PEEL AND CUT THE +PUMPKIN LENGTHWISE INTO OBLONG PIECES WHICH HOLLOW OUT AND PUT IN A +COOL PLACE. THE DRESSING FOR THE SAME MAKE IN THIS WAY: CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; MINCE COOKED BRAINS AND BEAT +RAW EGGS AND MIX ALL TOGETHER TO FORM A PASTE; ADD BROTH AS TASTE +REQUIRES. STUFF THE ABOVE PREPARED PIECES OF PUMPKIN THAT HAVE NOT +BEEN FULLY COOKED WITH THE DRESSING; FIT TWO PIECES TOGETHER AND CLOSE +THEM TIGHT [holding them by means of strings or skewers]. [Now poach +them and] TAKE THE COOKED ONES OUT AND FRY THEM [3]. [The proper] WINE +SAUCE [for this dish] MAKE THUS: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE MOISTENED WITH +WINE, RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, A LITTLE OIL, PLACE IN PAN TO BE COOKED; +WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX. COVER THE FRIED PUMPKIN WITH THIS SAUCE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4]. + + [1] Dann. cucumbers, for which there is no authority. + Cucumbers lend themselves equally well for a dish of + this kind; they are often stuffed with a forcemeat of + finely minced meats, mushrooms, eggs, breadcrumbs, or + simply with raw sausage meat, cooked as above, and + served as a garnish with _entrees_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Presumably in deep fat or oil, a procedure which + would require previous breading in bread crumbs or + enveloping in frying batter. + + [4] Whether you like pumpkin and brains or not--Apicius + in this dish reveals himself as the consummate master of + his art that he really is--a cook for cooks; Moreover, + the lucidity of his diction in this instance is equally + remarkable. It stands out in striking contrast to his + many other formulae which are so obscured. Many of them + perhaps were precepts of likewise striking originality + as this one just cited. + + +[177] COMPOTE OF EARLY FRUIT + _GUSTUM DE PRAECOQUIS_ + +CLEAN HARD-SKINNED EARLY FRUITS [1] REMOVE THE SEEDS AND KEEP THEM +COLD IN A PAN. CRUSH PEPPER [2] DRY MINT, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, ADDING +HONEY, RAISIN WINE, WINE AND VINEGAR; POUR THIS OVER THE FRUIT IN THE +PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL. STEW SLOWLY ON A WEAK FIRE, THICKEN [the +juice] WITH ROUX [rice flour or other starch diluted with water] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE [3]. + + [1] Lister praises the early green fruit and the use + thereof, and, as a physician, recommends imitation of + the above as follows: _In aliis plurimis locis hujus + fructus mentio fit; ususque mirabilis fuit; & certe + propter salubritatem, nostram imitationem meretur._ + + [2] We do not like the "pepper" in this connection and + we venture to suggest that in this case the term + probably stands for some other kind of aromatic seed + less pungent than the grain known to us as "pepper" and + one more acceptable to the fine flavor of fruit, namely + pimiento, allspice for instance, or clove, or nutmeg, or + a mixture of these. "Pepper" formerly was a generic term + for all of these spices but was gradually confined to + the grain pepper of black and white varieties. + + [3] We concur with Lister's idea of the use of early + fruits. The use of early and unripe fruit for this and + similar purposes is excellent. The above formula is a + good example of our own "spiced" peaches, pears, etc., + usually taken as a relish. Of course, we use sugar + instead of honey for sweetening, and brandy instead of + wine; but the underlying principles are alike. + + This is a good illustration of and speaks well for the + economy and the ingenuity of the ancients. + + +END OF BOOK IV + +_EXPLICIT APICII PANDECTER, LIBER QUARTUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: ROUND TABLE + +Claw-footed bronze legs on triangular base, consisting of three molded +cylindrical supports, connected by cross-bars. Near the top the legs +take on a greyhound design, with a three-armed brace connecting them. +The round top is of marble. Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 78613; Field +M., 24281.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book V + + + + +{Illustration: POMPEII: WINE STOCK ROOM OF A TAVERN + +Wine was kept in these great jugs, tightly sealed with plaster and +pitch, properly dated and labeled, often remaining for many years. +Some writers mention wine thus kept for a hundred years; the porosity +of the earthen crocks, often holding fifty gallons or more, allowed +evaporation, so that the wine in time became as thick as oil or honey, +which necessitated diluting with water. + +Smaller amphorae, with various vintages readily mixed, were kept cool +in "bars" very similar to our present ice cream cabinets, ready for +service for the guests in tavern rooms. + +Elaborate dippers (see our illustration) were used to draw the wine +from the amphorae.} + + + + +{Illustration: FRUIT OR DESSERT DISH, SEA-SHELL SHAPE + +The curved handle ends in the head of a griffin. Ntl. Mus., Naples, +76303; Field M. 24298.} + + + + +BOOK V. LEGUMES + +_Lib. V. Osprion_ [1] + + + CHAP. I. PULSE, MEAL MUSH, PORRIDGE, ETC. + CHAP. II. LENTILS. + CHAP. III. PEAS. + CHAP. IV. BEANS OR PEAS IN THE POD. + CHAP. V. BARLEY BROTH. + CHAP. VI. GREEN BEANS, BAIAEAN BEANS. + CHAP. VII. FENUGREEK. + CHAP. VIII. GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS. + + + +I + +MEAL MUSH, MUSH, PULSE, PAP, PORRIDGE, POLENTA + _DE PULTIBUS_ [2] + + +[178] JULIAN MEAL MUSH + _PULTES JULIANAE_ [3] + +JULIAN PULSES ARE COOKED THUS: SOAK WELL-CLEANED SPELT, PUT IT ON THE +FIRE; WHEN COOKED, ADD OIL. IF IT THREATENS TO BECOME THICK, CAREFULLY +THIN IT DOWN. TAKE TWO COOKED BRAINS AND HALF A POUND OF MEAT GROUND +AS FOR FORCEMEAT, CRUSH THIS WITH THE BRAINS AND PUT IN A POT. CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE AND FENNEL SEED, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, A LITTLE WINE +AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BRAIN AND MEAT. WHEN THIS FORCEMEAT IS HEATED +SUFFICIENTLY, MIX IT WITH THE SPELT [finish boiling] TRANSFER INTO +SERVICE DISH, THINNED. THIS MUST HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF A HEAVY JUICE +[4]. + + [1] List. _Osprios_; G.-V. _Ospreon_--cookery of + leguminous plants. + + [2] _Puls_--formerly a simple porridge of various kinds + of cereals or legumes, eaten by the Romans before bread + came into use. _Puls_ remained in use after the + introduction of bread only as a food of the poor. It was + also used at sacrifices. The _pultes_ and _pulticulae_ + given by Apicius are illustrations of the ever-present + desire to improve--to glorify, as it were, a thing which + once was or still is of vital importance in the daily + life of humans. The _nouveaux-riches_ of the ancient and + the modern world cannot find it easy to separate + themselves from their traditions nor are they wont to + put up with their plainness, hence the fancy trimmings. + The development of the American pie is a curious analogy + in this respect. We see in this the intricate working of + human culture, its eternal strife for perfection. And + perfection is synonymous with decay. The fare of the + Carthusian monks, professed, stern vegetarians, + underwent the same tortuous evolution. + + [3] Named for Didius Julianus, the emperor who was a + vegetarian. Of course, his majesty could not live on a + plain porridge, hence the Apician artistry. The _pultes_ + were popular with the many professed vegetarians though + the obliging cooks mixed finely ground meat in this and + other porridges. + + Our various cream soups and legume purees--those most + salubrious creations of modern cookery are no doubt + lineal descendants from the Apician _pultes_. They are + so scarce comparatively because they require all the + ingenuity and resourcefulness of a gifted cook to be + perfect. + + [4] Dann. remarks that this formula is wanting in List. + Both Lister's first and second editions have it. + + +[179] GRUEL AND WINE + _PULTES {OE}NOCOCTI_ + +PORRIDGE AND WINE IS THUS MADE: [1] FLAVOR THE PULSE WELL WITH WINE +[2] AND IMMERSE IN THE JUICE DAINTY MORSELS [3]. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [2] Tor. _Oenogari_; G.-V. _Oenococti_. + + [3] Tor. _cupedias_; _copadia_. + + +[180] SIMILAR + _SIMILAM_ [1] + +OR FLAVOR COOKED SPELT WITH THE LIQUOR OF DAINTY PIECES OF PORK, OR +CAPON [2] COOKED IN WINE [3]. + + [1] Tac. _inulam_; Tor. _mulam_--misreading. + + [2] Tor.; List. _apponis_. + + [3] For practical reasons we have separated the text of + {Rx} Nos. 179 and 180 which appears as one in the texts. + + +[181] MILK TOAST + _PULTES TRACTOGALATAE_ [1] + +PUT A PINT OF MILK AND SOME WATER ON THE FIRE IN A NEW [clean] POT; +BREAK ROUND BREAD INTO IT [2] DRY, STIR WELL TO PREVENT BURNING; ADD +WATER AS NECESSARY [3]. + + [1] Tor. _pulticula tractogala_. + + [2] List. _tres orbiculos tractae_; Tor. _teres + sorbiculos tractae_. + + _Tractum_ is a piece of pastry, a round bread or roll in + this case, stale, best suited for this purpose. + + [3] The text continues without interruption. + + +[182] HONEY PAP + _SIMILITER_ + +HONEY AND MEAD ARE TREATED SIMILARLY, MIXED WITH MILK, WITH THE +ADDITION OF SALT AND A LITTLE OIL. + + +[178-183] PULSE + _PULTES_ [1] + + [1] Tor. _Alia pulticula_. + + This is a verbatim repetition of {Rx} No. 178. + + + +II + +LENTILS + _LENTICULA_ [1] + + +[183] LENTILS AND COW-PARSNIPS + _LENTICULA EX SPONDYLIS SIVE FONDYLIS_ [2] + +PUT THE LENTILS IN A CLEAN SAUCE PAN [and cook with salt]. IN THE +MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND FLEA-BANE, +MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, ADD HONEY AND BROTH AND REDUCED MUST, VINEGAR +TO TASTE AND PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN. THE COOKED COW-PARSNIPS CRUSH, +HEAT [mix with the lentils] WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, TIE, ADD GREEN +[fresh olive] OIL AND SERVE IN AN APPROPRIATE DISH [3]. + + [1] Tor. _De Lenticula et Castaneis_. + + [2] List. again: _ex spongiolis sive fungulis_. See + notes to {Rx} Nos. 115-120 and 431. + + [3] _Boletar_--a "mushroom" dish. G.-V. _in boletari_; + Tac. _insuper oleum uiridem mittis_; Tor. + _inuolutari_--unidentified. + + +[184] LENTILS [1] AND CHESTNUTS + _LENTICULAM DE CASTANEIS_ [2] + +TAKE A NEW SAUCE PAN, PLACE THEREIN THE CHESTNUTS CAREFULLY CLEANED +[3] ADD WATER AND A LITTLE SODA AND PLACE ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED. +THIS DONE, CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, +RUE, LASER ROOT AND FLEA-BANE MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH; +ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE AND POUR THIS OVER THE COOKED CHESTNUTS, ADD OIL +AND ALLOW TO BOIL. WHEN DONE CRUSH IT IN THE MORTAR [4]. TASTE TO SEE +IF SOMETHING IS MISSING AND IF SO, PUT IT IN, AND AT LAST ADD GREEN +[fresh virgin] OIL. + + [1] Lentils are omitted in this formula; therefore see + the following formula. + + [2] Thus G.-V.; Tor. Chestnuts. + + [3] i.e. peeled and skinned. To do this easily, boil the + chestnuts with the skin, whereupon the outer brown shell + and the inner membrane are easily removed. + + [4] To make a puree of the chestnuts which strain + through the colander. + + +[184a] ANOTHER WAY [1] + _ALITER LENTICULAM_ + +COOK THE LENTILS, SKIM THEM [strain] ADD LEEKS, GREEN CORIANDER; CRUSH +CORIANDER SEED, FLEA-BANE, LASER ROOT, MINT SEED AND RUE SEED +MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR; ADD HONEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST TO +TASTE, THEN OIL, STIRRING [the puree] UNTIL IT IS DONE, BIND WITH +ROUX, ADD GREEN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] It is evident that {Rx} No. 184 and the above are + really one formula, the former dealing with the cooking + of the maroons, the latter describing the lentils. + Presumably the two purees are to be mixed, or to be + served as integral parts of one dish. + + + +III + + +[185] PEAS + _DE PISIS_ + +COOK THE PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, LAY LEEKS, CORIANDER AND CUMIN ON TOP. +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL AND GREEN BASILICA, WINE AND BROTH +TO TASTE, MAKE IT BOIL; WHEN DONE STIR WELL, PUT IN WHAT PERCHANCE +SHOULD BE MISSING AND SERVE [1]. + + [1] This reminds us of _Petits Pois a la Francaise_, + namely green peas (often very young ones with the pods) + cooked in broth, or _bouillon_, with shredded bacon, + lettuce, parsley, onions (or leeks, as above) fresh + mint, pepper, salt and other fresh herbs such as + chervil. Which is a very delectable way of preparing the + tender pea. Some of its refreshing green color is + sacrificed by this process, but this loss is amply + offset by the savour of the dish. + + +[186] PEAS [supreme style] + _PISA FARSILIS_ [1] + +COOK THE PEAS WITH OIL AND A PIECE OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PUT IN A SAUCE +PAN BROTH, LEEK HEADS [the lower white part] GREEN CORIANDER AND PUT +ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED. OF TID-BITS [3] CUT LITTLE DICE. SIMILARLY +COOK THRUSHES OR OTHER SMALL [game] BIRDS, OR TAKE SLICED CHICKEN AND +DICED BRAIN, PROPERLY COOKED. FURTHER COOK, IN THE AVAILABLE LIQUOR OR +BROTH, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE AND BACON; COOK LEEKS IN WATER; CRUSH A PINT +OF TOASTED PIGNOLIA NUTS; ALSO CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND +GINGER, DILUTE WITH THE BROTH OF PORK, TIE [4] TAKE A SQUARE BAKING +DISH SUITABLE FOR TURNING OVER WHICH OIL WELL AND LINE WITH CAUL [5] +SPRINKLE [on the bottom] A LAYER OF CRUSHED NUTS UPON WHICH PUT SOME +PEAS, FULLY COVERING THE BOTTOM OF THE SQUASH DISH; ON TOP OF THIS +ARRANGE SLICES OF THE BACON [6] LEEKS AND SLICED LUCANIAN SAUSAGE; +AGAIN COVER WITH A LAYER OF PEAS AND ALTERNATE ALL THE REST OF THE +AVAILABLE EDIBLES IN THE MANNER DESCRIBED UNTIL THE DISH IS FILLED, +CONCLUDING AT LAST WITH A LAYER OF PEAS, UTILIZING EVERYTHING. BAKE +THIS DISH IN THE OVEN, OR PUT IT INTO A SLOW FIRE [covering it with +live coal] SO THAT IT MAY BE BAKED THOROUGHLY. [Next make a sauce of +the following] PUT YOLKS OF HARD BOILED EGGS IN THE MORTAR WITH WHITE +PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, WHITE WINE AND A LITTLE BROTH; MIX AND PUT IT +INTO A SAUCE PAN TO BE COOKED; WHEN [the sauce is] DONE, TURN OUT THE +PEAS INTO A LARGE [silver dish] AND MASK THEM WITH THIS SAUCE WHICH IS +CALLED WHITE SAUCE [7]. + + [1] List. _Pisa farsilis_; Tor. _p. farsilia_; Tac., + G.-V. _pisam farsilem_--same as _fartilis_, from + _farcio_--fattened, stuffed, or crammed, or as full as + it can hold, metaphorically perhaps "supreme style," + "most sumptuous," etc. + + [2] This meat being fat enough, the oil seems + superfluous. + + [3] _isicia_, formerly called Greek _hysitia_--any fine + forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings. + + [4] _Liaison_ wanting in Tor. + + [5] Tor. makes no mention of the square dish and its + caul lining. Caul is the abdominal membrane. + + [6] _petasonis pulpas_; Dann. ham, which is not quite + correct. The _petaso_ is the shoulder part of pork, + either cured or fresh, generally fresh. The cooked pork + shoulder here is cut into small pieces. Nothing is said + about the utilization of the sow's belly mentioned at + the opening of the formula. We assume that the _petaso_ + can take its place in the dish. + + [7] There is nothing just like this dish in the history + of gastronomy, considering both the comparatively cheap + materials and the refinement of the gastronomic idea + which it embodies. The _chartreuses_ of Careme are the + nearest thing to it. Lister waxes enthusiastic about it. + + +[187] INDIAN PEAS + _PISAM INDICAM_ [1] + +COOK PEAS; WHEN SKIMMED, PUT IN THE SAUCE PAN FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND +CORIANDER TO BE COOKED [with the peas]. TAKE SMALL CUTTLE FISH, MOST +DESIRABLE BECAUSE OF THE BLACK LIQUOR AND COOK THEM ALSO. ADD OIL, +BROTH AND WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEK AND [green] CORIANDER AND MAKE IT +BOIL. WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, A LITTLE WILD CUMIN +[2] MOISTEN WITH THE JUICE [of the peas] ADD WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO +TASTE; MINCE THE FISH VERY FINE, INCORPORATE IT WITH THE PEAS, AND +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3]. + + [1] Tor. _pisum Indicum_. + + [2] Tor., Tac. _casei modicum_; other texts, _carei_. + + [3] The texts continues without interruption to the next + formula. + + +[188] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +COOK THE PEAS, WORK WELL [to make a puree] PLACE IN THE COLD, STIRRING +UNTIL THEY HAVE COOLED OFF. FINELY CHOP ONIONS AND THE WHITES OF HARD +BOILED EGGS, SEASON WITH SALT AND A LITTLE VINEGAR; THE YOLKS PRESS +THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN ENTREE DISH, SEASON WITH FRESH OIL AND +SERVE [1]. + + [1] The texts fail to state that the whites, yolks, + onions, vinegar and oil must eventually be combined into + a dressing very similar to our own modern _vinaigrette_; + for decorative and other gastronomic reasons the + separate treatment of the whites and the yolks is both + ingenious and excellent, and is very often practised in + good kitchens today. + + +[189] PEAS OR BEANS A LA VITELLIUS + _PISAM VITELLIANAM SIVE FABAM_ [1] + +PEAS OR BEANS WITH YOLKS ARE MADE THUS: [2] COOK THE PEAS, SMOOTHEN +[3] THEM; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, AND ON THE CONDIMENTS PUT HARD +BOILED YOLKS, 3 OUNCES OF HONEY, ALSO BROTH, WINE AND VINEGAR; [mix +and] PLACE ALL IN A SAUCE PAN; THE FINELY CHOPPED CONDIMENTS WITH OIL +ADDED, PUT ON THE STOVE TO BE COOKED; WITH THIS FLAVOR THE PEAS WHICH +MUST BE SMOOTH; AND IF THEY BE TOO HARSH [in taste] ADD HONEY AND +SERVE [4]. + + [1] List. _Pisa Vitelliana_--named for Vitellius, ninth + Roman emperor, notorious glutton, according to Hum. who + says that V. invented this dish: _ab auctore Vitellio + Imperatore luxui deditissimo_. But Tor. differs; his + _pisum uitellinum_ stands for peas with + yolks--_vitellum_--yolk, (also calf) dim. _vitellinum_; + Tac. _v----am_. Cf. {Rx} No. 193. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] _lias_--to make a puree by crushing and straining. + Tor. _laevigabis_, from _levigo_--meaning the same. + + [4] If Vitellius never invented any other dish than this + one, his gluttony was overrated. As a gastronomer he may + be safely relegated to the vast multitude of ill-advised + people whose craving for carbohydrates (which is perhaps + pathological) causes them to accumulate a surplus of + fat. This was fatal to Vitellius and his faithful court + baker who is said to have stuck to his master to the + last. The poor emperor's _embonpoint_ proved cumbersome + when he fled the infuriated mob. Had he been leaner he + might have effected a "getaway." He was dragged through + the streets and murdered, Dec. 21 or 22, A.D. 69. + + +[190] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM_ + +WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED MIX BROTH, HONEY, MUST, CUMIN, +RUE, CELERY SEED, OIL AND WINE, STIR [1]. SERVE WITH CRUSHED PEPPER +AND SAUSAGE [2]. + + [1] G.-V. _tudiclabis_; Tor. _misceas_. + + [2] _cum isiciis_--bits of forcemeat. + + +[191] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM_ + +WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED FLAVOR THEM WITH CRUSHED PERSIAN +[1] LASER, BROTH AND MUST; POUR A LITTLE OIL OVER AND SERVE. + + [1] Parthian, from _Parthia_, a country of Asia. + + +[192] A TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS + _PISAM ADULTERAM _[1]_ VERSATILEM_ + +THIS ADROIT, TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: [2] +COOK PEAS; BRAINS OR SMALL BIRDS, OR BONED THRUSHES, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, +CHICKEN LIVERS AND GIBLETS--ALL OF WHICH ARE PUT IN A SAUCE PAN; +BROTH, OIL AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS, GREEN CORIANDER FINELY CHOPPED, COOK +WITH THE BRAINS; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND BROTH [3]. + + [1] Sch., Dann. crafty, i.e. not genuine. _Adulteram_ + cannot here be used in its most accepted sense, because + the peas are genuine, and no attempt is made to + adulterate or "fake" this dish in any way, shape or + form. Never before have we applied the term "seductive" + to any dish, but this is just what _adultera_ means. + "Tempting" of course is quite common. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] This formula is incomplete or mutilated, the last + sentence breaks off in the middle--very likely a + description of the sauce or condiments belonging to the + peas. + + Each and every component of this (really tempting) dish + must be cooked separately; they are then composed in a + dish, nicely arranged, with the peas in the center, + surrounded by the several morsels, with an appropriate + gravy made from the natural liquor or juices of the + component parts poured over the dish. + + +[193] PEAS A LA VITELLIUS + _PISAM SIVE FABAM VITELLIANAM_ [1] + +PEAS OR BEANS IN THE STYLE OF VITELLIUS PREPARE THUS: [2] [The peas or +beans] ARE COOKED, WHEN CAREFULLY SKIMMED, ADD LEEKS, CORIANDER AND +MALLOW FLOWERS [3]: WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, AND +FENNEL SEED MOISTENED WITH BROTH [and put it] INTO A SAUCE PAN WITH +WINE [4], ADDING OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY AND WHEN BOILING STIR WELL; PUT +GREEN OIL ON TOP AND SERVE. + + [1] Named for the inventor, Emperor Vitellius; cf. notes + to {Rx} No. 189. Tor. _Vitellianum_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Wanting in Dann. + + [4] Tor. + + + +IV + + +[194] BEANS IN THE POD + _CONCHICLA_ [1] + +COOK THE BEANS [2]; MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN +CORIANDER, MOISTENED WITH BROTH AND WINE, AND ADD [more] BROTH TO +TASTE, PUT INTO THE SAUCE PAN [with the beans] ADDING OIL; HEAT ON A +SLOW FIRE AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. _Concicla_--_conchis_--_conchicula_--young, + immature beans, string or wax, boiled in the shell or + pod. + + [2] _conchiclam cum faba_--young string beans and (dry, + white or kidney) beans, cooked separately of course and + mixed when done, ready for service. + + +[195] PEAS IN THE POD APICIAN STYLE + _CONCHICLAM APICIANAM_ + +FOR PEAS IN THE POD [1] APICIAN STYLE TAKE: [2] A CLEAN EARTHEN POT IN +WHICH TO COOK THE PEAS; TO THE PEAS ADD FINELY CUT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, +LITTLE PORK CAKES [3], PIECES OF MEAT [4] AND PORK SHOULDER [5]. CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, DILL, DRY ONIONS [6] GREEN CORIANDER +MOISTENED WITH BROTH, WINE, AND ADD [more] BROTH TO TASTE; UNITE THIS +WITH THE PEAS IN THE EARTHEN POT TO WHICH ADD OIL IN SUFFICIENT +QUANTITY TO BE ABSORBED BY THE PEAS; FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE TO GIVE IT +LIVE HEAT AND SERVE. + + [1] Peas in the pod are likewise called _conchicla_; + hence perhaps any legumes cooked in the shells. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] _isiciola porcina._ + + [4] _pulpas_--in this case no specific meat. + + [5] _petaso_; Dann. pieces of ham + + [6] _cepam siccam_--ordinary dry onions, not shallots. + + +[196] SIMPLE DISH OF PEAS IN THE POD + _CONCHICLA DE PISA SIMPLICI_ [1] + +COOK THE PEAS [in the pods] WHEN SKIMMED ADD A BUNCH [2] OF LEEKS AND +GREEN CORIANDER. WHILE BEING COOKED CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, AND +[the above] BUNCH [of herbs] [3] MOISTEN WITH ITS OWN JUICE, WINE [4] +ENOUGH TO SUIT YOUR TASTE, THEN ADD OIL AND FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [5]. + + [1] Thus G.-V.; Tor. _Concicla Pisorum_. + + [2] Sch. _feniculum_ instead of _fasciculum_. + + [3] G.-V. _de suo sibi fricabis_; Tor. _seorsim f._ + + [4] G.-V. wine wanting in Tor. + + [5] Brandt, referring to {Rx} No. 154, suggests that the + things crushed in a mortar be placed on top of the peas. + + +[197] PEAS IN THE POD A LA COMMODUS [1] + _CONCHICLA COMMODIANA_ + +MAKE PEAS COMMODIAN STYLE THUS: [2] COOK THE PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, SHALLOTS MOISTENED WITH BROTH; ADD WINE AND +BROTH TO TASTE: STIR IN A SAUCE PAN [with the peas] TO COMBINE; FOR +EACH SEXTARIUS OF PEAS BEAT 4 EGGS, AND COMBINE THEM WITH THE PEAS, +PLACE ON THE FIRE TO THICKEN [avoiding ebullition] AND SERVE. + + [1] Hum. Named for Commodus, the emperor; List. for + Commodus Antonius, son of the philosopher Marcus. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[198] ANOTHER STYLE + _ALITER CONCHICLAM SIC FACIES_ [1] + +CUT [raw] CHICKEN INTO SMALL PIECES, ADD BROTH, OIL AND WINE, AND STEW +IT. CHOP ONIONS AND CORIANDER FINE AND ADD BRAINS [calf's or pork, +parboiled] THE SKIN AND NERVES REMOVED, TO THE CHICKEN. WHEN THIS IS +COOKED TAKE [the chicken] OUT AND BONE IT. THE PEAS COOK SEPARATELY, +WITHOUT SEASONING, ONLY USING CHOPPED ONIONS AND CORIANDER AND THE +BROTH OF THE CHICKEN; STRAIN [part of] THE PEAS AND ARRANGE THEM +ALTERNATELY [in a dish with the pieces of chicken, brains and the +unstrained peas] THEN CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN, MOISTENED WITH CHICKEN +BROTH. IN THE MORTAR BEAT 2 EGGS WITH BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER +THE CHICKEN AND PEAS, FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [1], DISH OUT ON A HEAP OF +PEAS, GARNISH WITH PINE NUTS AND SERVE. + + [1] By congealing in a mould, which is unmoulded on a + heap of peas. Danneil directs to stuff the whole chicken + with the pea preparation, brains, etc., and to poach it + in a square pan. + + +[199] STUFFED CHICKEN OR SUCKLING PIG + _CONCHICLATUS PULLUS VEL PORCELLUS_ [1] + +BONE [either] CHICKEN [or suckling pig] FROM THE CHICKEN REMOVE THE +BREAST BONE AND THE [upper joint bones of the] LEGS; HOLD IT TOGETHER +BY MEANS OF WOODEN SKEWERS, AND MEANWHILE [2] PREPARE [the following +dressing in this manner]: ALTERNATE [inside of the chicken or pig] +PEAS WITH THE PODS [washed and cooked], BRAINS, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, ETC. +NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND GINGER, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, +RAISIN WINE AND WINE TO TASTE, MAKE IT BOIL, WHEN DONE, USE IT +MODERATELY FOR SEASONING AND ALTERNATELY WITH THE OTHER DRESSING; WRAP +[the chicken, or pig] IN CAUL, PLACE IT IN A BAKING DISH AND PUT IT IN +THE OVEN TO BE COOKED SLOWLY, AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V., Tor. _Concicla farsilis_. + + [2] Tor. here splits the formula, using the above title. + + + +V + +GRUELS + _TISANAM ET ALICAM_ [1] + + +[200] BARLEY BROTH + _ALICAM VEL SUCCUM TISANAE SIC FACIES_ [2] + +CRUSH WELL WASHED BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY BEFORE, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO +BE COOKED. WHEN HOT ADD PLENTY OIL, A SMALL BUNCH OF DILL, DRY ONION, +SATURY AND COLOCASIUM, TO BE COOKED TOGETHER BECAUSE THIS GIVES A +BETTER JUICE; ADD GREEN CORIANDER AND A LITTLE SALT; BRING IT TO A +BOILING POINT. WHEN WELL HEATED TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [dill] AND TRANSFER +THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER VESSEL TO AVOID BURNING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE +POT; THIN IT OUT [with water, broth, milk] AND STRAIN INTO A POT, +COVERING THE TIPS OF THE COLOCASIA [2]. NEXT CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, A +LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND SYLPHIUM, STIR WELL, ADD VINEGAR, +REDUCED MUST AND BROTH; PUT IT BACK IN THE POT; THE REMAINING +COLOCASIA FINISH ON A GENTLE FIRE. + + [1] A repetition of Book IV, Chap. IV, _Tisanam vel + sucum_, our {Rx} No. 172 + + [2] Tor. still has difficulties with the vegetable + called by Lister _colocasium_. He reads here _colonium_ + and _colosium_. G.-V. _col{oe}fium_. Cf. Note 1 to {Rx} + No. 172 and Note to Nos. 74, 216, 244 and 322. + + +[201] ANOTHER GRUEL + _ALITER TISANAM_ [1] + +SOAK CHICK-PEAS, LENTILS AND PEAS, CRUSH BARLEY AND COOK WITH THE +LEGUMES, WHEN WELL COOKED ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREENS, LEEKS, +CORIANDER, DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE STRUNKS, ALL SOFT AND +GREEN AND VERY FINELY CUT, AND PUT IN A POT. THE CABBAGE COOK +[separately; also] CRUSH FENNEL SEED, PLENTY OF IT, ORIGANY, SILPHIUM, +AND LOVAGE, AND WHEN GROUND, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER THE +PORRIDGE, STIR, AND USE SOME FINELY CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS TO SPRINKLE +ON TOP. + + [1] A repetition of {Rx} No. 173. + + + +VI + +GREEN BEANS + _FABACIAE VIRIDES ET BAIANAE_ [1] + + +[202] GREEN BEANS + _FABACIAE VIRIDES_ + +GREEN BEANS ARE COOKED IN BROTH, WITH OIL, GREEN CORIANDER, CUMIN AND +CHOPPED LEEKS, AND SERVED. + + [1] Beans grown in Baiae, also called _bajanas_ or + _bacanas_; beans without skin or pods. + + +[203] BEANS SAUTE + _ALITER: FABACIAE FRICTAE_ + +FRIED BEANS ARE SERVED IN BROTH. + + +[204] MUSTARD BEANS + _ALITER: FABACIAE EX SINAPI_ + +[The beans previously cooked are seasoned with] CRUSHED MUSTARD SEED, +HONEY, NUTS, RUE, CUMIN, AND SERVED WITH VINEGAR. + + +[205] BAIAEAN BEANS + _BAIANAS_ [1] + +COOKED BEANS FROM BAIAE ARE CUT FINE [and finished with] RUE, GREEN +CELERY, LEEKS, VINEGAR [2] A LITTLE MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVED +[3]. + + [1] Named for Baiae, a town of Campania, noted for its + warm baths; a favorite resort of the Romans. + + [2] Wanting in Tor. + + [3] These apparently outlandish ways of cooking beans + compel us to draw a modern parallel in a cookery book, + specializing in Jewish dishes. To prove that Apicius is + not dead "by a long shot," we shall quote from Wolf, + Rebekka: Kochbuch fuer Israelitische Frauen, Frankfurt, + 1896, 11th edition. As a matter of fact, Rebekka Wolf is + outdoing Apicius in strangeness--a case of _Apicium in + ipso Apicio_, as Lister sarcastically remarks of + Torinus. + + Rebekka Wolf: {Rx} No. 211--wash and boil the young + beans in fat _bouillon_ (Apicius: _oleum et liquamen_) + adding a handful of chopped pepperwort (A.: _piper, + ligusticum_) and later chopped parsley (A.: + _petroselinum_) some sugar (A.: _mel pavo_--little + honey) and pepper. Beans later in the season are cooked + with potatoes. The young beans are tied with flour + dissolved in water, or with roux. + + _Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 212, Beans Sweet-Sour. Boil in + water, fat, salt, add vinegar, sugar or syrup, "English + aromatics" and spices, lemon peel, and a little pepper; + bind with roux. + + _Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 213, Cut Pickled Beans + (_Schneidebohnen_) prepare as {Rx} No. 212, but if you + would have them more delicious, take instead of the roux + grated chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel and lemon + juice, and some claret. If not sour enough, add vinegar, + but right here you must add more fat; you may lay on top + of this dish a bouquet of sliced apples. + + _Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 214, Beans and Pears. Take cut and + pickled beans and prepare as above. To this add peeled + fresh pears, cut into quarters; then sugar, lemon peel + cut thin, cinnamon, "English" mixed spices, and at last + the roux, thinned with broth. This dish must be sweet + and very fat. + + As for exotic combinations, Apicius surely survives + here, is even surpassed by this Jewish cookery book + where, no doubt, very ancient traditions have been + stored away. + + + +VII + + +[206] THE HERB FENUGREEK + _F{OE}NUM GRAECUM_ [1] + +FENUGREEK [is prepared] IN BROTH, OIL AND WINE. + + [1] Tor. or _fenum_; G.-V. _Faenum_. + + + +VIII + + +[207] GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS + _PHASEOLI _[1]_ VIRIDES ET CICER_ + +ARE SERVED WITH SALT, CUMIN, OIL, AND A LITTLE PURE WINE. + + [1] Tor. _Faseolus_, the bean with a long, sabre-like + pod; a phasel, kidney bean, when ripened. + + +[208] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER FASEOLUS ET CICER_ + +[Beans or chick-peas] ARE COOKED IN A WINE SAUCE AND SEASONED WITH +PEPPER [1]. + + [1] Dann. and Goll.: "roasted" beans. + + +[209] BOILED, SUMPTUOUSLY + _ET ELIXATI, SUMPTO_ [1] + +AND COOK THE BEANS, IN A RICH MANNER, REMOVE THE SEEDS AND SERVE [as a +Salad [2]], WITH HARD EGGS, GREEN FENNEL, PEPPER, BROTH, A LITTLE +REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE SALT, OR SERVE THEM IN SIMPLER WAYS, AS YOU +MAY SEE FIT. + + [1] The original continues with the preceding formula. + + [2] For a salad we would add finely chopped onion, + pepper, and some lemon juice. + + The purpose of removing the seeds is obscure. G.-V. + reads _semine cum ovis_; Tac. _semie_; Hum. _s. cum + lobis_. The passage may mean to sprinkle (sow) with hard + boiled (and finely chopped) eggs, which is often done on + a salad and other dishes. + + +END OF BOOK V + +_EXPLICIT APICII OSPRION LIBER QUINTUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: ADJUSTABLE TABLE + +Polychrome marble in bronze frame. Four elaborately designed bronze +legs, braced and hinged, so that the table may be raised or lowered. +The legs end in claw feet resting on a molded base. Above they are +encircled with leaves, from which emerge young satyrs, each holding a +rabbit under the left arm. The legs below the acanthus leaves are +ornamented with elaborate floral patterns, inlaid, with other inlaid +patterns on the connecting braces and around the frame of the marble +top. Bronze and marble tables that could be folded and taken down +after banquets were used by the Babylonians centuries before this +table was designed in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72994; Field M. +24290.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book VI + + + + +{Illustration: THE GREAT CRATER + +Found at Hildesheim in 1868. This and a number of other pieces form +the collection known as The Hildesheim Treasure, now at the Kaiser +Friedrich Museum, Berlin. + +This wine crater is entirely of silver, a piece of supreme workmanship +of Roman origin. Very delicate decoration, anticipating the +Renaissance: Winged griffins and other monsters, half ox, half lion, +at the base; aquatic animals, genii angling and spearing fish. + +There is a second vessel inside, acting as a liner, to take the weight +of the fluid off the decorated bowl. The complete weight is 9451.8 +gr., but the inner liner is stamped CVM BASI PONDO XXXXI--41 pounds +with the base. The weight of silver pieces was inscribed as a check on +the slaves. + +The bowl is 0.36 meter (about 14-1/4 inches) in height and 0.353 meter +in diameter. It stands on the tripod which is depicted separately.} + + + + +{Illustration: THE DIONYSOS CUP + +The Dionysos head in the center and the two satyrs are modeled +realistically by a most able artist. Lion and lioness heads on the +other side. Hildesheim Treasure.} + + + + +BOOK VI. FOWL + +_Lib. VI. Aeropetes_ [1] + + + CHAP. I. OSTRICH. + CHAP. II. CRANE OR DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVES, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB + AND DIVERS BIRDS. + CHAP. III. THRUSH [2]. + CHAP. IV. FIGPECKER [2]. + CHAP. V. PEACOCK [2]. + CHAP. VI. PHEASANT [2]. + CHAP. VII. GOOSE. + CHAP. VIII. CHICKEN. + + [1] Tac., Tor. _Trophetes_; probably an error in their + rendering. List. _Aeroptes_, Greek for Fowl. + + [2] The titles of these chapters and the classification + is not adhered in the text of Book VI. The chapters are + actually inscribed as follows: + + Chap. I, Ostrich; II, Crane or Duck, Partridge, Turtle + Dove, Wood Pigeon, Squab and divers birds; III, + Partridge, Heathcock (Woodcock), Turtle Dove; IV, Wood + Pigeon, Squab [Domestic Fattened Fowl, Flamingo]; V, + Sauce for divers birds; VI, Flamingo; VII, In Order That + Birds May Not Be Spoiled; VIII, Goose; IX, Chicken. + + + +I + +OSTRICH + _IN STRUTHIONE_ + + +[210] BOILED OSTRICH + _IN STRUTHIONE ELIXO_ + +[A stock in which to cook ostrich] PEPPER, MINT, CUMIN, LEEKS [1], +CELERY SEED, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL. +BOIL THIS IN THE STOCK KETTLE [with the ostrich, remove the bird when +done, strain the liquid] THICKEN WITH ROUX. [To this sauce] ADD THE +OSTRICH MEAT CUT IN CONVENIENT PIECES, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER. IF YOU +WISH IT MORE SEASONED OR TASTY, ADD GARLIC [during coction]. + + [1] G.-V. _Cuminum_; Tor. _C., porrum_, which is more + likely. + + +[211] ANOTHER OSTRICH STEW + _ALITER [in] STRUTHIONE ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ALSO SATURY, HONEY, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND +OIL. + + + +II + +CRANE, DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVE, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB, AND DIVERS BIRDS + _IN GRUE VEL ANATE PERDICE TURTURE PALUMBO COLUMBO ET DIVERSIS AVIBUS_ + + +[212] CRANE OR DUCK + _GRUEM VEL ANATEM_ + +WASH [the fowl] AND DRESS IT NICELY [1] PUT IN A STEW POT, ADD WATER, +SALT AND DILL, PARBOIL [2] SO AS TO HAVE THEM HALF DONE, UNTIL THE +MEAT IS HARD, REMOVE THEM, PUT THEM IN A SAUCE PAN [to be finished by +braising] WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF ORIGANY AND CORIANDER; WHEN +NEARLY DONE, ADD A LITTLE REDUCED MUST, TO GIVE IT COLOR. MEANWHILE +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, RUE [moistened +with] REDUCED WINE AND SOME HONEY, ADD SOME OF THE FOWL BROTH [3] TO +IT AND VINEGAR TO TASTE; EMPTY [the sauce] INTO A SAUCE PAN, HEAT, +BIND WITH ROUX, AND [strain] THE SAUCE OVER THE FOWL IN AN ENTREE +DISH. + + [1] _Lavas et ornas_, i.e., singe, empty carcass of + intestines, truss or bind it to keep its shape during + coction, and, usually, lard it with either strips or + slices of fat pork and stuff the carcass with greens, + celery leaves, etc. + + [2] _Dimidia coctura decoques._ Apicius here pursues the + right course for the removable of any disagreeable taste + often adhering to aquatic fowl, feeding on fish or food + found in the water, by parboiling the meat. Cf. {Rx} No. + 214. + + [3] Again, as so often: _ius de suo sibi_; here the + liquor of the braising pan, for stock in which the fowl + is parboiled cannot be used for reasons set forth in + Note 2. + + +[213] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING CRANE, DUCK OR CHICKEN + _ALITER IN GRUE [VEL] IN ANATE VEL IN PULLO_ + +PEPPER, SHALLOTS, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, PRUNES OR DAMASCUS PLUMS +STONES REMOVED, FRESH MUST, VINEGAR [1] BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. +BOIL THE CRANE; WHILE COOKING IT TAKE CARE THAT ITS HEAD IS NOT +TOUCHED BY THE WATER BUT THAT IT REMAINS WITHOUT. WHEN THE CRANE IS +DONE, WRAP IT IN A HOT TOWEL, AND PULL THE HEAD OFF SO THAT THE SINEWS +FOLLOW IN A MANNER THAT THE MEAT AND THE BONES REMAIN; FOR ONE CANNOT +ENJOY THE HARD SINEWS [2]. + + [1] Dann. mead. + + [2] Remarkable ingenuity! Try this on your turkey legs. + Danneil is of the opinion that the head and its feathers + were to be saved for decorative purposes, in style + during the middle ages when game bird patties were + decorated with the fowl's plumage, a custom which + survived to Danneil's time (ca. 1900). But this is not + likely to be the case here, for it would be a simple + matter to skin the bird before cooking it in order to + save the plumage for the taxidermist. + + +[214] CRANE OR DUCK WITH TURNIPS + _GRUEM VEL ANATEM EX RAPIS_ [1] + +TAKE OUT [remove entrails, [2]] CLEAN WASH AND DRESS [the bird] AND +PARBOIL [2] IT IN WATER WITH SALT AND DILL. NEXT PREPARE TURNIPS AND +COOK THEM IN WATER WHICH IS TO BE SQUEEZED OUT [3]. TAKE THEM OUT OF +THE POT AND WASH THEM AGAIN [4]. AND PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN THE DUCK +WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; THE TURNIPS CUT INTO +SMALL PIECES; THESE PUT ON TOP OF THE [duck] IN ORDER TO FINISH +COOKING. WHEN HALF DONE, TO GIVE IT COLOR, ADD REDUCED MUST. THE SAUCE +IS PREPARED SEPARATELY: PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT MOISTENED +WITH VINEGAR AND DILUTED WITH ITS OWN BROTH [of the fowl]; BRING THIS +TO A BOILING POINT, THICKEN WITH ROUX. [In a deep dish arrange the +duck] ON TOP OF THE TURNIPS [strain the sauce over it] SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Duck and Turnips, a dish much esteemed on the + Continent today. Only few prepare it correctly as does + Old Apicius; hence it is not popular with the multitude. + + [2] Tac., Tor. _excipies_; Hum. _legendum: ex rapis_. + + [3] G.-V. _ut exbromari possint_; Tor. _expromi_; Hum. + _expromari_; all of which does not mean anything. To + cook the turnips so that they can be squeezed out + (_exprimo_, from _ex_ and _premo_) is the proper thing + to do from a culinary standpoint. + + [4] The turnips are cooked half, the water removed, and + finished with the duck, as prescribed by Apicius. It is + really admirable to see how he handles these food + materials in order to remove any disagreeable flavor, + which may be the case both with the turnips (the small + white variety) and the duck. Such careful treatment is + little known nowadays even in the best kitchens. Cf. + Note 2 to {Rx} No. 212. + + +[215] ANOTHER [SAUCE FOR] CRANE OR DUCK + _ALITER IN GRUEM VEL ANATEM ELIXAM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY CORIANDER, MINT, ORIGANY, PINE NUTS, DATES, +BROTH, OIL, HONEY, MUSTARD AND WINE [1]. + + [1] Supposedly the ingredients for a sauce in which the + parboiled fowl is braised and served. + + +[216] ROAST CRANE OR DUCK + _ALITER GRUEM VEL ANATEM ASSAM_ + +POUR OVER [the roast bird] THIS GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY +WITH BROTH, HONEY, A LITTLE VINEGAR AND OIL; BOIL IT WELL, THICKEN +WITH ROUX [strain] IN THIS SAUCE PLACE SMALL PIECES OF PARBOILED +PUMPKIN OR COLOCASIUM [1] SO THAT THEY ARE FINISHED IN THE SAUCE; ALSO +COOK WITH IT CHICKEN FEET AND GIBLETS (all of which) SERVE IN A +CHAFING DISH, SPRINKLE WITH FINE PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Cf. {Rx} Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322. + + +[217] BOILED CRANE OR DUCK IN ANOTHER MANNER + _ALITER IN GRUE VEL ANATE ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ROCKET, OR CORIANDER, MINT, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND MUSTARD. LIKEWISE USED FOR FOWL ROAST +[braised] IN THE POT. + + + +III + +WAYS TO PREPARE PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK OR WOODCOCK, AND BOILED TURTLE-DOVE + _IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE ELIXIS_ + + +[218] PARTRIDGE + _IN PERDICE_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, ALSO RAISINS, HONEY +[1] WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL. USE IT COLD [2] THE PARTRIDGE IS +SCALDED WITH ITS FEATHERS, AND WHILE WET THE FEATHERS ARE TAKEN OFF; +[the hair singed] IT IS THEN COOKED IN ITS OWN JUICE [braised] AND +WHEN DONE WILL NOT BE HARD IF CARE IS TAKEN [to baste it]. SHOULD IT +REMAIN HARD [if it is old] YOU MUST CONTINUE TO COOK IT UNTIL IT IS +TENDER. + + [1] Honey wanting in Tor. + + [2] G.-V. _Aliter_. This is one formula. + + +[219] [SAUCE] FOR PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK AND TURTLE-DOVE + _IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE SEED, BROTH, PURE WINE, AND OIL, HEATED. + + + +IV + +WOOD PIGEONS, SQUABS, FATTENED FOWL, FLAMINGO + _IN PALUMBIS COLUMBIS AVIBUS IN ALTILE ET IN FENICOPTERO_ + + +[220] FOR ROASTS: PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CARRAWAY, + SHALLOTS, MINT, YOLKS OF EGG, DATES, HONEY, + VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL AND WINE. + + +[221] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOILED [birds] + _ALITER IN ELIXIS_ + +TO THE BOILED FOWL ADD [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, PARSLEY, +CONDIMENTS, MORTARIA [2] DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, OIL AND MUSTARD. + + [1] Tor. wanting in other texts. + + [2] _Mortaria_: herbs, spices, things pounded in the + "mortar." Cf. {Rx} No. 38. + + +[222] ANOTHER [sauce] + _ALITER_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CELERY SEED, RUE, PINE NUTS, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD AND A LITTLE OIL. + + +[223] ANOTHER [sauce] + _ALITER_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER, WINE [1] MOISTENED WITH BROTH. ADD WINE AND +BROTH TO TASTE. MASK THE WOOD PIGEON OR SQUAB WITH IT. SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER [2] AND SERVE. + + [1] Tac., Tor. _laserum, vinum_; G.-V. _l. vivum_. + + [2] Wanting in Tor. + + + +V + + +[224] SAUCE FOR DIFFERENT BIRDS + _IUS IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS_ + +PEPPER, DRY CUMIN, CRUSHED. LOVAGE, MINT, SEEDLESS RAISINS OR DAMASCUS +PLUMS, LITTLE HONEY, MYRTLE WINE TO TASTE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL. +HEAT AND WHIP IT WELL WITH CELERY AND SATURY [1]. + + [1] For centuries sauce whips were made of dry and green + twigs, the bark of which was carefully peeled off. + + +[225] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR FOWL + _ALITER IUS IN AVIBUS_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, FENNEL BLOSSOMS [1] MOISTENED WITH +WINE; ADD ROASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS [2] OR ALMONDS, A LITTLE HONEY, +WINE, VINEGAR, AND BROTH TO TASTE. PUT OIL IN A POT, AND HEAT AND STIR +THE SAUCE, ADDING GREEN CELERY SEED, CAT-MINT; CARVE THE FOWL AND +COVER WITH THE SAUCE [3]. + + [1] Dann. _Cnecus_. + + [2] Turkish hazelnuts. + + [3] Tor. continuing without interruption. + + +[226] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL + _IUS CANDIDUM IN AVEM ELIXAM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, TOASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS, OR +ALMONDS, ALSO SHELLED PINE NUTS, HONEY [1] A LITTLE BROTH, VINEGAR AND +OIL. + + [1] Tor. _vel_; List. _mel_. + + +[227] GREEN SAUCE FOR FOWL + _IUS VIRIDE IN AVIBUS_ + +PEPPER, CARRAWAY, INDIAN SPIKENARD, CUMIN, BAY LEAVES, ALL KINDS OF +GREEN HERBS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, LITTLE BROTH, AND OIL. + + +[228] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE + _IUS CANDIDUM IN ANSERE ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, ONION, LASER ROOT, +TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL [1] + + [1] A "sweet-sour" white sauce with herbs and spices is + often served with goose in northern Germany. + + +[229] TREATMENT OF STRONG SMELLING BIRDS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION + _AD AVES HIRCOSAS _[1]_ OMNI GENERE_ + +FOR BIRDS OF ALL KINDS THAT HAVE A GOATISH [1] SMELL [2] PEPPER, +LOVAGE, THYME, DRY MINT, SAGE, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, +OIL, REDUCED MUST, MUSTARD. THE BIRDS WILL BE MORE LUSCIOUS AND +NUTRITIOUS, AND THE FAT PRESERVED, IF YOU ENVELOP THEM IN A DOUGH OF +FLOUR AND OIL AND BAKE THEM IN THE OVEN [3]. + + [1] Probably game birds in an advanced stage of "_haut + gout_" (as the Germans use the antiquated French term), + or "_mortification_" as the French cook says. Possibly + also such birds as crows, black birds, buzzards, etc., + and fish-feeding fowl. Moreover, it must be borne in + mind that the refrigeration facilities of the ancients + were not too good and that fresh goods spoiled quickly. + Hence, perhaps, excessive seasoning, at least, as + compared to our modern methods. + + List. _aves piscivoras_; Hum. thinks the birds to be + downright spoiled: _olidas, rancidas, & grave olentes_. + + [2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] For birds with a goatish smell Apicius should have + repeated his excellent formula in {Rx} No. 212, the + method of parboiling the birds before final coction, if, + indeed, one cannot dispense with such birds altogether. + The above recipe does not in the least indicate how to + treat smelly birds. Wrapping them in dough would vastly + increase the ill-savour. + + As for game birds, we agree with most connoisseurs that + they should have just a suspicion of "_haut gout_"--a + condition of advanced mellowness after the _rigor + mortis_ has disappeared. + + +[230] ANOTHER TREATMENT OF ODOR + _ALIUD CONTRA UIROSUM ODOREM_ [1] + +[IF THE BIRDS SMELL, [1]] STUFF THE INSIDE WITH CRUSHED FRESH OLIVES, +SEW UP [the aperture] AND THUS COOK, THEN RETIRE THE COOKED OLIVES. + + [1] Tor.; other texts _aliter avem_, i.e. that the olive + treatment is not necessarily confined to ill smelling + birds alone. + + + +VI + + +[231] FOR FLAMINGO [and Parrot] + _IN PH{OE}NICOPTERO_ + +SCALD [1] THE FLAMINGO, WASH AND DRESS IT, PUT IT IN A POT, ADD WATER, +SALT, DILL, AND A LITTLE VINEGAR, TO BE PARBOILED. FINISH COOKING WITH +A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER, AND ADD SOME REDUCED MUST TO GIVE IT +COLOR. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, +RUE, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD DATES, AND THE FOND OF THE BRAISED +BIRD, THICKEN, [strain] COVER THE BIRD WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVE. +PARROT IS PREPARED IN THE SAME MANNER. + + [1] Prior to removing the feathers; also singe the fine + feathers and hair. + + +[232] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +ROAST THE BIRD. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, SESAM [1] PARSLEY, +MINT, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST +TO TASTE. + + [1] Tor. _sesamum, defrutum_; G.-V. _s. frictum_. + + + +VII + + +[233] TO PREVENT BIRDS FROM SPOILING + _AVES OMNES NE LIQUESCANT_ + +SCALDED WITH THE FEATHERS BIRDS WILL NOT ALWAYS BE JUICY; IT IS BETTER +TO FIRST EMPTY THEM THROUGH THE NECK AND STEAM THEM SUSPENDED OVER A +KETTLE WITH WATER [1]. + + [1] Dry picking is of course the best method. Apicius is + trying to overcome the evils of scalding fowl with the + feathers. This formula is mutilated; the various texts + differ considerably. + + + +VIII + +[FOR GOOSE] + [_IN ANSERE_] + + +[234] BOILED GOOSE WITH COLD APICIAN SAUCE + _ANSEREM ELIXUM EX IURE APICIANO FRIGIDO_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED [1] MINT, RUE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH +AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF OIL. TAKE THE COOKED GOOSE OUT OF THE POT AND +WHILE HOT WIPE IT CLEAN WITH A TOWEL, POUR THE SAUCE OVER IT AND +SERVE. + + [1] G.-V.; Tor. (fresh) coriander, more suited for a + cold sauce. + + + +IX + +[FOR CHICKEN] + [_IN PULLO_] + + +[235] RAW SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKEN + _IN PULLO ELIXO IUS CRUDUM_ + +PUT IN THE MORTAR DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH +VINEGAR, FIG WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED MUST, AND +SERVE [1] [Known as] DILL CHICKEN [2]. + + [1] This and the preceding cold dressings are more or + less variations of our modern cold dressings that are + used for cold dishes of all kinds, especially salads. + + [2] Tor. heads the following formula _praeparatio pulli + anethi_--chicken in dill sauce, which is the correct + description of the above formula. Tac., G.-V. also + commence the next with _pullum anethatum_, which is not + correct, as the following recipe contains no dill. + + +[236] ANOTHER CHICKEN + _ALITER PULLUS_ [1] + +A LITTLE HONEY IS MIXED WITH BROTH; THE COOKED [parboiled] CHICKEN IS +CLEANED [skin taken off, sinews, etc., removed] THE CARCASS DRIED WITH +A TOWEL, QUARTERED, THE PIECES IMMERSED IN BROTH [2] SO THAT THE +SAVOUR PENETRATES THOROUGHLY. FRY THE PIECES [in the pan] POUR OVER +THEIR OWN GRAVY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE. + + [1] Hum., List. cf. Note 2 to {Rx} No. 235. + + [2] Marinated; but the nature of this marinade is not + quite clear; a spicy marinade of wine and herbs and + spices would be appropriate for certain game birds, but + chicken ordinarily requires no marinade except some oil + before frying. It is possible that Apicius left the + cooked chicken in the broth to prevent it from drying + out, which is good. + + +[237] CHICKEN PARTHIAN STYLE + _PULLUM PARTHICUM_ [1] + +DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [2] AND QUARTER IT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE +AND A LITTLE CARRAWAY [3] MOISTENED WITH BROTH, AND ADD WINE TO TASTE. +[After frying] PLACE THE CHICKEN IN AN EARTHEN DISH [4] POUR THE +SEASONING OVER IT, ADD LASER AND WINE [5] LET IT ASSIMILATE WITH THE +SEASONING AND BRAISE THE CHICKEN TO A POINT. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Lister is of the opinion that the _pullus Parthicus_ + is a kind of chicken that came originally from Asia, + Parthia being a country of Asia, the present Persia or + northern India, a chicken of small size with feathers on + its feet, i.e., a bantam. + + [2] Pluck, singe, empty, wash, trim. The texts: _a + navi_. Hum. _hoc est, a parte posteriore ventris, qui ut + navis cavus & figurae ejus non dissimile est_. Dann. + takes this literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here simply + means "to perform diligently." + + [3] Tor. _casei modicum_; List. _carei_--more likely + than cheese. + + [4] _Cumana_--an earthenware casserole, excellent for + that purpose. + + [5] G.-V. _laser [et] vivum_. + + +[238] CHICKEN SOUR + _PULLUM OXYZOMUM_ + +A GOOD-SIZED GLASS OF OIL, A SMALLER GLASS OF BROTH, AND THE SMALLEST +MEASURE OF VINEGAR, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, PARSLEY AND A BUNCH OF +LEEKS. + + G.-V. _[laseris] satis modice_. + + These directions are very vague. If the raw chicken is + quartered, fried in the oil, and then braised in the + broth with a dash of vinegar, the bunch of leeks and + parsley, seasoned with pepper and a little salt, we have + a dish gastronomically correct. The leeks may be served + as a garnish, the gravy, properly reduced and strained + over the chicken which like in the previous formula is + served in a casserole. + + +[239] GUINEA HEN + _PULLUM NUMIDICUM_ + +PREPARE [1] THE CHICKEN [as usual; par-] BOIL IT; CLEAN IT [2] +SEASONED WITH LASER AND PEPPER, AND FRY [in the pan; next] CRUSH +PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, RUE, FIG DATES AND NUTS, +MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE [3] WHEN BOILING +THICKEN WITH ROUX [strain] POUR OVER THE CHICKEN, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE. + + [1] _Curas._ + + [2] Remove skin, tissues, bones, etc., cut in pieces + and marinate in the pickle. + + [3] Immerse the chicken pieces in this sauce and braise + them to a point. + + +[240] CHICKEN WITH LASER + _PULLUM LASERATUM_ + +DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [1] CLEAN, GARNISH [2] AND PLACE IN AN +EARTHEN CASSEROLE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER MOISTENED WITH WINE [3] +ADD BROTH AND WINE TO TASTE, AND PUT THIS ON THE FIRE; WHEN DONE SERVE +WITH PEPPER SPRINKLED OVER. + + [1] _a navi._ cf. Note 2 to {Rx} No. 237. + + [2] G.-V. _lavabis_, _ornabis_, with vegetables, etc. + + [3] G.-V. _laser vivum_. + + +[241] ROAST CHICKEN + _PULLUM PAROPTUM_ + +A LITTLE LASER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, A GLASS OF OIL, A GLASS OF +BROTH, AND A LITTLE PARSLEY. + + [1] _Paropsis_, _parapsis_, from the Greek, a platter, + dish. + + A most incomplete formula. It does not state whether the + ingredients are to be added to the sauce or the + dressing. We have an idea that the chicken is pickled in + this solution before roasting and that the pickle is + used in making the gravy. + + +[242] BOILED CHICKEN IN ITS OWN BROTH + _PULLUM ELIXUM EX IURE SUO_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, A LITTLE THYME, FENNEL SEED, MINT, RUE, LASER +ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIG DATES [1] WORK WELL AND MAKE IT +SAVORY WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE: THE BOILED CHICKEN +PROPERLY CLEANED AND DRIED [with the towel] IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE +[2]. + + [1] Goll. cloves--_cariophyllus_; the originals have + _caryotam_ and _careotam_. + + [2] Apparently another cold sauce of the vinaigrette + type similar to {Rx} No. 235. + + +[243] CHICKEN AND PUMPKIN + _PULLUM ELIXUM CUM CUCURBITIS ELIXIS_ + +TO THE ABOVE DESCRIBED DRESSING ADD MUSTARD, POUR OVER [1] AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Perfundes_; Tor. _piper fundes_. + + The pumpkin, not mentioned here, is likewise served cold + boiled, seasoned with the same dressing. It is perhaps + used for stuffing the chicken and cooked simultaneously + with the same. + + +[244] CHICKEN AND DASHEENS [1] + _PULLUM ELIXUM CUM COLOCASIIS ELIXIS_ + +THE ABOVE SAUCE IS ALSO USED FOR THIS DISH. STUFF THE CHICKEN WITH +[peeled] DASHEENS AND [stoned] GREEN OLIVES, THOUGH NOT TOO MUCH SO +THAT THE DRESSING MAY HAVE ROOM FOR EXPANSION, TO PREVENT BURSTING +WHILE THE CHICKEN IS BEING COOKED IN THE POT. HOLD IT DOWN WITH A +SMALL BASKET, LIFT IT UP FREQUENTLY [2] AND HANDLE CAREFULLY SO THAT +THE CHICKEN DOES NOT BURST [3]. + + [1] Dasheens are the equivalent of the ancient + colocasium; at least they are very close relatives. Cf. + Notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322. + + [2] For inspection. G.-V. _levas_; Tor. _lavabis_, for + which there is no reason. + + [3] Dann. and Goll., not knowing the colocasium or + dasheen have entirely erroneous versions of this + formula. The dasheen is well adapted for the stuffing of + fowl. Ordinarily the dasheen is boiled or steamed, + mashed, seasoned and then stuffed inside of a raw + chicken which is then roasted. Being very starchy, the + dasheen readily absorbs the fats and juices of the + roast, making a delicious dressing, akin in taste to a + combined potato and chestnut puree. + + As the above chicken is cooked in _bouillon_ or water, + the dasheen may be used in a raw state for filling. We + have tried this method. Instead of confining the chicken + in a basket, we have tied it in a napkin and boiled + slowly until done. Serve cold, with the above dressing. + + +[245] CHICKEN A LA VARUS [1] + _PULLUS VARDANUS_ + +COOK THE CHICKEN IN THIS STOCK: BROTH, OIL, WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS, +CORIANDER, SATURY; WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS WITH 2 GLASSES OF +WATER [2] AND THE JUICE OF THE CHICKEN. RETIRE THE BUNCHES OF GREENS, +ADD MILK TO TASTE. THE THINGS CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR ADD TO THE CHICKEN +AND COOK IT TOGETHER: THICKEN THE SAUCE WITH BEATEN WHITES OF EGG [3] +AND POUR THE SAUCE OVER THE CHICKEN. THIS IS CALLED "WHITE SAUCE." + + [1] G.-V. _Vardanus_; Tor. _Vardamus_; Hum. _Vardanus + legendum, puto, Varianus, portentuosae luxuriae + Imperator_. Hum. thinks the dish is dedicated to emperor + Varianus (?) The word may also be the adjective of + Varus, Quintilius V., commander of colonial armies and + glutton, under Augustus. Varus committed suicide after + his defeat in the Teutoburg Forest by the Germans. + + [2] G.-V. broth, own stock--_ius de suo sibi_. + + [3] Strain, avoid ebullition after the eggs have been + added. Most unusual _liaison_; usually the yolks are + used for this purpose. The whites are consistent with + the name of the sauce. + + +[246] CHICKEN A LA FRONTO [1] + _PULLUM FRONTONIANUM_ + +A HALF-COOKED CHICKEN MARINADED IN A PICKLE OF BROTH, MIXED WITH OIL, +TO WHICH IS ADDED A BUNCH OF DILL, LEEKS, SATURY AND GREEN CORIANDER. +FINISH IT IN THIS BROTH. WHEN DONE, TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT [2] DRESS IT +NICELY ON A DISH, POUR OVER THE [sauce, colored with] REDUCED MUST, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Named for a Roman by the name of Fronto. There is a + sucking pig a la Fronto, too. Cf. {Rx} No. 374. M. + Cornelius Fronto was orator and author during the reign + of Emperor Hadrian. According to Dann. a certain + Frontone under Emperor Severus. + + [2] List., G.-V. _levabis_; Tor. _lavabis_, for which + there is little or no occasion. He may mean to clean, + i.e. remove skin, tissues, sinews, small bones, etc. + + +[247] CREAMED CHICKEN WITH PASTE [1] + _PULLUS TRACTOGALATUS_ [2] + +COOK THE CHICKEN [as follows, in] BROTH, OIL, WITH WINE ADDED, TO +WHICH ADD A BUNCH OF CORIANDER AND [green] ONIONS. WHEN DONE TAKE IT +OUT [3] [strain and save] THE BROTH, AND PUT IT IN A NEW SAUCE PAN, +ADD MILK AND A LITTLE SALT, HONEY AND A PINT [4] OF WATER, THAT IS, A +THIRD PART: PLACE IT BACK ON A SLOW FIRE TO SIMMER. FINALLY BREAK [the +paste, [1]] PUT IT LITTLE BY LITTLE INTO [the boiling broth] STIRRING +WELL SO IT WILL NOT BURN. PUT THE CHICKEN IN, EITHER WHOLE OR IN +PIECES [5] DISH IT OUT IN A DEEP DISH. THIS COVER WITH THE FOLLOWING +SAUCE [6] PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTENED WITH HONEY AND A LITTLE +REDUCED MUST. ADD SOME OF THE [chicken] BROTH, HEAT IN A SMALL SAUCE +PAN AND WHEN IT BOILS THICKEN WITH ROUX [7] AND SERVE. + + [1] Spaetzle, noodles, macaroni; this dish is the ancient + "Chicken Tetrazzini." Dann. Chicken pie or patty. + + [2] _tractum_ and _gala_, prepared with paste and milk. + Cf. _tractomelitus_, from _tractum_ and _meli_, paste + and honey. + + [3] Cf. Note 2 to {Rx} Nos. 244 and 246. + + [4] List. _minimum_; Tor. _heminam_; Sch. _eminam_. See + Measures. The noodle paste should be cooked separately + in the water. + + [5] List. _vel carptum_, which is correct. Tor. _vel + careotam_, out of place here. + + [6] This sauce seems to be superfluous. Very likely it + is a separate formula for a sauce of some kind. + + [7] Seems superfluous, too. The noodle paste in the + chicken gravy makes it sufficiently thick. + + +[248] STUFFED CHICKEN [OR PIG] + _PULLUS FARSILIS_ [1] + +EMPTY THE CHICKEN THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK SO THAT NONE OF THE +ENTRAILS REMAIN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, CUT MEAT [2] COOKED +SPELT, BESIDES CRUSH BRAINS COOKED IN THE [chicken] BROTH, BREAK EGGS +AND MIX ALL TOGETHER IN ORDER TO MAKE A SOLID DRESSING; ADD BROTH TO +TASTE AND A LITTLE OIL, WHOLE PEPPER, PLENTY OF NUTS. WITH THIS +DRESSING STUFF EITHER A CHICKEN OR A SUCKLING PIG, LEAVING ENOUGH ROOM +FOR EXPANSION [3]. + + [1] Tor. _fusilis_. + + [2] Preferably raw pork or veal. + + [3] A most sumptuous dressing; it compares favorably + with our popular stale bread pap usually called "chicken + dressing." + + +[249] STUFFED CAPON LIKEWISE + _SIMILITER IN CAPO FACIES_ [1] + +THE CAPON IS STUFFED IN A SIMILAR WAY BUT IS COOKED WITH ALL THE BONES +REMOVED [2]. + + [1] Sch. _in capso_. May be interpreted thus: Cooked in + an envelope of caul or linen, in which case it would + correspond to our modern galantine of chicken. + + [2] Tor. _ossibus eiectis_; Hum. _omnibus e._; i.e. all + the entrails, etc., which is not correct. The bones must + be removed from the capon in this case. + + +[250] CHICKEN AND CREAM SAUCE [1] + _PULLUS LEUCOZOMUS_ [2] + +TAKE A CHICKEN AND PREPARE IT AS ABOVE. EMPTY IT THROUGH THE APERTURE +OF THE NECK SO THAT NONE OF THE ENTRAILS REMAIN. TAKE [a little] WATER +[3] AND PLENTY OF SPANISH OIL, STIR, COOK TOGETHER UNTIL ALL MOISTURE +IS EVAPORATED [4] WHEN THIS IS DONE TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT, SO THAT THE +GREATEST POSSIBLE AMOUNT OF OIL REMAINS BEHIND [5] SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [6]. + + [1] The ancient version of Chicken a la Maryland, Wiener + Backhaehndl, etc. + + [2] Tor. _Leocozymus_; from the Greek _leucozomos_, + prepared with white sauce. The formula for the cream + sauce is lacking here. Cf. {Rx} No. 245. + + [3] The use of water to clarify the oil which is to + serve as a deep frying fat is an ingenious idea, little + practised today. It surely saves the fat or oil, + prevents premature burning or blackening by frequent + use, and gives a better tasting _friture_. The above + recipe is a mere fragment, but even this reveals the + extraordinary knowledge of culinary principles of + Apicius who reveals himself to us as a master of + well-understood principles of good cookery that are so + often ignored today. Cf. Note 5 to {Rx} No. 497. + + [4] The recipe fails to state that the chicken must be + breaded, or that the pieces of chicken be turned in + flour, etc., and fried in the oil. + + [5] Another vital rule of deep fat frying not stated, or + rather stated in the language of the kitchen, namely + that the chicken must be crisp, dry, that is, not + saturated with oil, which of course every good fry cook + knows. + + [6] With the cream sauce, prepared separately, spread on + the platter, with the fried chicken inside, or the sauce + in a separate dish, we have here a very close + resemblance to a very popular modern dish. + + (Schuch and Danneil insert here Excerpta XXIX, XXX and + XXXI.) + + +END OF BOOK VI + +[explicit] _TROPHETES APICII. LIBER SEXTUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: FRYING PAN, ROUND + +Provided with a lip to pour out fluids, a convenience which many +modern pans lack. The broad flat handle is of one piece with the pan +and has a hole for suspension. On some ancient pans these handles were +hinged so as to fold over the cavity of the pan, to save room in +storing it away, particularly in a soldier's knapsack. Ntl. Mus., +Naples, 76571; Field M. 24024.} + + + + +{Illustration: FRONTISPICE, SECOND LISTER EDITION + +purporting to represent the interior of an ancient kitchen. J. +G{oe}ree, the artist and engraver, has invented it. The general +tidiness differs from contemporary Dutch kitchens and the clothing of +the cooks reminds one of Henry VIII, who issued at Eltham in 1526 this +order: "... provide and sufficiently furnish the kitchens of such +scolyons as shall not goe naked or in garments of such vilenesse as +they doe ... nor lie in the nights and dayes in the kitchens ... by +the fire-side...."--MS. No. 642, Harleian Library.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book VII + + + + +{Illustration: THE GREAT PALLAS ATHENE DISH + +One of the finest show platters in existence. Of Hellenic make. The +object in the right hand of Athene has created considerable conjecture +but has never been identified. + +Hildesheim Treasure.} + + + + +{Illustration: FRYING PAN, OVAL + +This oblong pan was no doubt primarily used in fish cookery. An oblong +piece of food material fitted snugly into the pan, thus saving fats +and other liquids in preparation. Around the slender handle was no +doubt one of non-heat-conducting material. The shape and the lip of +the pan indicate that it was not used for "sauter." Ntl. Mus., Naples, +76602; Field M. 24038.} + + + + +BOOK VII. SUMPTUOUS DISHES + +_Lib. VII. Polyteles_ + + + CHAP. I. SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, BACON, TENDERLOIN, TAILS + AND FEET. + CHAP. II. SOW'S BELLY. + CHAP. III. FIG-FED PORK. + CHAP. IV. TID-BITS, CHOPS, STEAKS. + CHAP. V. ROASTS. + CHAP. VI. BOILED AND STEWED MEATS. + CHAP. VII. PAUNCH. + CHAP. VIII. LOINS AND KIDNEYS. + CHAP. IX. PORK SHOULDER. + CHAP. X. LIVERS AND LUNGS. + CHAP. XI. HOME-MADE SWEETS. + CHAP. XII. BULBS, TUBERS. + CHAP. XIII. MUSHROOMS. + CHAP. XIV. TRUFFLES. + CHAP. XV. TAROS, DASHEENS. + CHAP. XVI. SNAILS. + CHAP. XVII. EGGS. + + [In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted + in the text of Book VII, namely Chap. X, Fresh Ham and + Chap. XI, To Cook Salt Pork; these being inserted after + Chap. IX, Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX + Chapters.] + + + +I + +SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET + _VULVAE STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULAE ET UNGELLAE_ + + +[251] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB [1] + _VULVAE STERILES_ + +STERILE SOW'S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: +TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE OR PARTHIA, VINEGAR AND BROTH. + + [1] The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the + ancients, considered a great delicacy. Sows were + slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed for + the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[252] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +TAKE PEPPER, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND +BROTH. + + +[253] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB + _VULVAE STERILES_ + +WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PARTHIAN LASER. + + +[254] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1] AND BROTH AND A LITTLE CONDIMENT. + + [1] Wanting in Lister. + + +[255] CRACKLINGS, PORK SKIN, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET + _CALLUM, LUMBELLI _[1]_ COTICULAE, UNGELLAE_ + +SERVE WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND LASER (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL "SILPHION") +[2]. + + [1] Tor., G.-V. _libelli_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[256] GRILLED SOW'S WOMB + _VULVAM UT TOSTAM FACIAS_ + +ENVELOPE IN BRAN, AFTERWARDS [1] PUT IN BRINE AND THEN COOK IT. + + [1] We would reverse the process: first pickle the + vulva, then coat it with bran (or with bread crumbs) and + fry. + + + +II + + +[257] SOW'S BELLY + _SUMEN_ + +SOW'S UDDER OR BELLY WITH THE PAPS ON IT IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER +[1] THE BELLY BOIL, TIE IT TOGETHER WITH REEDS, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND +PLACE IT IN THE OVEN, OR, START ROASTING ON THE GRIDIRON. CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH BROTH, PURE WINE, ADDING RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, +THICKEN [the sauce] WITH ROUX AND POUR IT OVER THE ROAST. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[258] STUFFED SOW'S BELLY + _SUMEN PLENUM_ + +FULL [1] SOW'S BELLY IS STUFFED WITH [2] CRUSHED PEPPER, CARRAWAY, +SALT MUSSELS; SEW THE BELLY TIGHT AND ROAST. ENJOY THIS WITH A BRINE +SAUCE AND MUSTARD. + + [1] Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + + +III + +FIG-FED PORK + _FICATUM_ [1] + + [1] Tor. _De Sycoto, id est, Ficato_. + + +[259] WINE SAUCE FOR FIG-FED PORK + _IN FICATO {OE}NOGARUM_ [1] + +FIG-FED PORK LIVER (THAT IS, LIVER CRAMMED WITH FIGS) IS PREPARED IN A +WINE SAUCE WITH [2] PEPPER, THYME, LOVAGE, BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND +OIL [3]. + + [1] Tor. _Ficatum, iecur suillum_. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] Reinsenius, _ficatum_ [_or sicatum_] _projecore_. + + According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were + starved, and the hungry pigs were crammed with dry figs + and then suddenly given all the mead they wanted to + drink. The violent expansion of the figs in the + stomachs, or the fermentation caused acute indigestion + which killed the pigs. The livers were very much + enlarged, similar to the cramming of geese for the sake + of obtaining abnormally large livers. This latter method + prevailed in the Strassburg District until recently when + it was prohibited by law. + + +[260] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +TRIM [the liver] MARINATE IN BROTH, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, TWO LAUREL +BERRIES, WRAP IN CAUL, GRILL ON THE GRIDIRON AND SERVE. + + Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with + the knife or with a needle. + + It is by no means clear that the liver is meant. + + + +IV + +TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS + _OFFELLAE_ [1] + + +[261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT BALLS + _OFFELLAE OSTIENSES_ + +PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE MEAT [of bones, sinews, +etc.] SCRAPE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CUMIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH +BROTH; IN A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT BALLS AND THE SPICES WHERE THEY +REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH +TWIGS. THEN PLACE THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE THE +FINISHED MEAT BALLS OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH THE BROTH, ADD A +LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE +BALLS IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Ofellae_; apparently the old Roman "Hamburger + Steak." The term covers different small meat pieces, + chops, steaks, etc. + + [2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome's + harbour. + + [3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[262] APICIAN ROULADES + _OFFELLAS APICIANAS_ + +BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades--a pork loin, roll it, tie it] OVEN, +SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. [Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE, +ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT +HARDEN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], CUMIN, ADDING BROTH AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE +PAN [finish by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY THEM. +SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE +OUTER SKIN [2]. + + [1] _Cyperis_, _--os_, _--um_, _cypirus_, variants for a + sort of rush; probably "Cyprian Grass." + + [2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal + with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or "_filets + mignons_." + + +[263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLE + _OFFELLAE APRUGNEO _[1]_ MORE_ + +IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS +PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND +BROTH AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE [marinated] THE +PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO +THIS GRAVY AND ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH, +AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS WITHOUT THE BROTH AND +OIL, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. + + [1] G.-V. _Aprugineo_; List. _Offellae Aprugneae_, i.e. + wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat. Ms. _aprogneo more_; + Tor. _pro genuino more_; Tac. _aprogeneo_--from + _aprugnus_, wild boar. + + Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated + with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is called + _Mouton a la Chasseur_, hunter style. + + [2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding + formula, carried over by Torinus. + + [3] This sentence only in Torinus. + + +[264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER OFFELLAE_ + +THE BALLS OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE PAN, NEARLY DONE. +[Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE [2] GLASS BROTH, A GLASS OF +WATER, A GLASS OF VINEGAR AND A GLASS OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS +IN AN EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE FIRE AND +SERVE. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] Tor. _Summi_; List. _sumis_, i.e. broth of the pork. + + +[265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLE + _ALITER OFFELLAS_ + +ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS +PREVIOUSLY SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF CUMIN, ARE PROPERLY FRIED +[3]. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [2] The texts have two formulae; by the transposition of + the two sentences the formula appears as a whole and + one that is intelligible from a culinary point of view. + + [3] The texts have: _in aqua recte friguntur_; the + _acqua_ presumably belongs to the cumin pickle. To fry + in water is not possible. + + + +V + +CHOICE ROASTS [1] + _ASSATURAE_ + + +[266] ROASTING, PLAIN + _ASSATURAM SIMPLICEM_ [2] + +SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED +WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] WITH HONEY [3]. + + [1] Tor. _De assaturae exquisitae apparatu_. + + [2] Brandt adds "plain." + + [3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting; + fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar. + + Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on + the spit, universally practised during the middle ages. + The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. It is + seldom used today, although we have improved it by + turning it with electrical machinery. + + +[267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTS + _ALITER ASSATURAS_ + +TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5 +LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6 +OF ORIGANY, A LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory], +6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND BROTH AND OIL AS +MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2]. + + [1] G.-V. _asareos_ [?] _Asarum_, the herb foalbit, wild + spikenard. + + [2] No directions are given for the making of this + compound which are essential to insure success of this + formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial + sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, + etc.), which are served with every roast. + + +[268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROAST + _ALITER ASSATURAS_ + +CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH CUMIN AND PEPPER, ADDING HONEY ALSO +BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER +THE ROAST THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + +[269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce] + _ALITER ASSATURAS_ + +6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, 6 SCRUPLES +CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD +SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6 +SCRUPLES CUMIN, 6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL. + + [1] Tor. _assareos_; cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 267. + + +[270] ROAST NECK [1] + _ASSATURAS IN COLLARI_ + +PUT IN A BRAISIERE [2] AND BOIL PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH; AND HEAT +THIS WITH THE MEAT IN THE OVEN. THE NECK PIECE ITSELF, IF YOU LIKE, IS +ALSO ROASTED WITH SPICES AND THE HOT GRAVY IS SIMPLY POURED OVER AT +THE MOMENT OF SERVING [3]. + + [1] A piece of meat from the neck of a food animal, + beef, veal, pork; a muscular hard piece, requiring much + care to make it palatable, a "pot roast." + + [2] A roasting pan especially adapted for braising tough + meats, with closefitting cover to hold the vapors. + + [3] Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. G.-V. + _siccum calidum_, for hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical + error for _succum_. + + + +VI + +BOILED, STEWED MEATS, AND DAINTY FOOD + _IN ELIXAM ET COPADIA_ + + +[271] SAUCE FOR ALL BOILED DISHES + _JUS IN ELIXAM OMNEM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, RUE, SILPHIUM, DRY ONION, WINE, REDUCED WINE, +HONEY, VINEGAR, A LITTLE OIL, BOILED DOWN, STRAINED THROUGH A CLOTH +AND POURED UNDER THE HOT COOKED MEATS [1]. + + [1] A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Most of + the ingredients are found in the Worcestershire Sauce. + + +[272] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS + _JUS IN ELIXAM_ + +MAKE IT THUS: [Tor.] PEPPER, PARSLEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, FIG-DATES, +ONIONS, LITTLE OIL, POURED UNDER VERY HOT. + + +[273] ANOTHER + _JUS IN ELIXAM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, DRY RUE, FENNEL SEED, ONION, FIGDATES, WITH BROTH AND +OIL. + + +[274] WHITE [bread] [1] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS + _JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_ + +WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES IS MADE THUS: [2] PEPPER, BROTH, WINE, +RUE, ONIONS, NUTS, A LITTLE SPICE, BREAD SOAKED TO THE SATURATION +POINT, OIL, WHICH IS COOKED AND SPREAD UNDER [the meat]. + + [1] Our present bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but + essentially the same as the Apician sauce, is very + popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game in + England. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[275] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS + _ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_ + +ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES CONTAINS: [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, +LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND +OIL. + + +[276] WHITE SAUCE FOR DAINTY FOOD + _IN COPADIIS _[1]_ JUS ALBUM_ + +TAKE CUMIN, LOVAGE, RUE SEED, PLUMS FROM DAMASCUS [2] SOAK IN WINE, +ADD HONEY MEAD AND VINEGAR, THYME AND ORIGANY TO TASTE [3]. + + [1] Lacking definite description of the _copadia_ it is + hard to differentiate between them and the + _offelae_.--_Cupedia_ (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty + dishes, from _cupiditas_, appetite, desire for dainty + fare. Hence _cupedinarius_ (Terent.) and _cupediarius_ + (Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a + confectioner. + + [2] _Damascena_; they correspond apparently to our + present stewed (dried) prunes. It is inconceivable how + this sauce can be white in color, but, as a condiment + and if taken in small quantity, it has our full + approval. + + [3] G.-V. _agitabis_, i.e. stir the sauce with a whip of + thyme and origany twigs. Cf. note to following. + + +[277] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR APPETIZERS + _ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN COPADIIS_ + +IS MADE THUS [1] PEPPER, THYME, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, FENNEL, RUE, MINT +[2], MYRTLE BERRIES, RAISINS, RAISIN WINE, AND MEAD TO TASTE; STIR IT +WITH A TWIG OF SATURY [3]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] G.-V., rue wanting. + + [3] An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The + sporadic discoveries of such very subtle and refined + methods (cf. notes to {Rx} No. 15) should dispell once + and for all time the old theories that the ancients were + using spices to excess. They simply used a greater + variety of flavors and aromas than we do today, but + there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The + great variety of flavors at the disposal of the ancients + speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory sense + and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf. + {Rx} Nos. 345, 369 and 385. + + +[278] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS + _JUS IN COPADIIS_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, MINT, LEAVES OF SPIKENARD (WHICH THE GREEKS +CALL "NARDOSACHIOM") [_sic!_] [1] YOLKS, HONEY, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH +AND OIL. STIR WELL WITH SATURY AND LEEKS [2] AND TIE WITH ROUX. + + [1] Tor. [_sic!_] _spicam nardi_--sentence wanting in + other texts. G.-V. _nardostachyum_, spikenard. + + [2] A fagot of satury and leeks! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. + 276 and 277. + + +[279] WHITE SAUCE FOR TIDBITS + _JUS ALBUM IN COPADIIS_ + +IS MADE THUS: [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, NUTS, +WHICH SOAK AND CLEAN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO BE ADDED [2]. + + [1, 2] First three and last three words in Tor. + + +[280] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS + _JUS IN COPADIIS_ + +PEPPER, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, SATURY, SAFFRON, SHALLOTS, TOASTED +ALMONDS, FIGDATES, BROTH, OIL AND A LITTLE MUSTARD; COLOR WITH REDUCED +MUST. + + +[281] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS + _JUS IN COPADIIS_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. + + +[282] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS + _JUS IN COPADIIS_ + +CHOP HARD EGGS, PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, COOKED LEEKS, MYRTLE BERRIES, +SOMEWHAT MORE HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. + + +[283] RAW DILL SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH + _IN ELIXAM ANETHATUM CRUDUM_ + +PEPPER, DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, POUR UNDER: VINEGAR, DATE +WINE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST AND OIL TO +TASTE; AND SERVE IT WITH ROAST PORK SHOULDER. + + +[284] BRINY SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH + _JUS IN ELIXAM ALLECATUM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, THYME, SHALLOTS, DATES, FISH +BRINE [1] STRAINED HONEY, AND WINE TO TASTE; SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED +GREEN CELERY AND OIL AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _allecem_; Tor. _Halecem_. + + + +VII + +PAUNCH + _VENTRICULA_ + + +[285] PIG'S PAUNCH + _VENTREM PORCINUM_ + +CLEAN THE PAUNCH OF A SUCKLING PIG WELL WITH SALT AND VINEGAR AND +PRESENTLY WASH WITH WATER. THEN FILL IT WITH THE FOLLOWING DRESSING: +PIECES OF PORK POUNDED IN THE MORTAR, THREE BRAINS--THE NERVES +REMOVED--MIX WITH RAW EGGS, ADD NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SAUCE TO +TASTE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SILPHIUM, ANISE, GINGER, A LITTLE RUE; +FILL THE PAUNCH WITH IT, NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH, LEAVING PLENTY OF ROOM +FOR EXPANSION LEST IT BURSTS WHILE BEING COOKED. PUT IT IN A POT WITH +BOILING WATER, RETIRE AND PRICK WITH A NEEDLE SO THAT IT DOES NOT +BURST. WHEN HALF DONE, TAKE IT OUT AND HANG IT INTO THE SMOKE TO TAKE +ON COLOR; NOW BOIL IT OVER AGAIN AND FINISH IT LEISURELY. NEXT TAKE +THE BROTH, SOME PURE WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, OPEN THE PAUNCH WITH A +SMALL KNIFE. SPRINKLE WITH THE BROTH AND LOVAGE; PLACE THE PIG NEAR +THE FIRE TO HEAT IT, TURN IT AROUND IN BRAN [or bread crumbs] IMMERSE +IN [sprinkle with] BRINE AND FINISH [the outer crust to a golden +brown] [1]. + + [1] The good old English way of finishing a roast joint + called dredging. + + Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch + make three different formulas out of it. + + + +VIII + +LOINS AND KIDNEYS + _LUMBI ET RENES_ + + +[286] ROAST LOINS MADE THUS + _LUMBULI ASSI ITA FIUNT_ + +SPLIT THEM INTO TWO PARTS SO THAT THEY ARE SPREAD OUT [1] SPRINKLE THE +OPENING WITH CRUSHED PEPPER AND [ditto] NUTS, FINELY CHOPPED CORIANDER +AND CRUSHED FENNEL SEED. THE TENDERLOINS ARE THEN ROLLED UP TO BE +ROASTED; TIE TOGETHER, WRAP IN CAUL, PARBOIL IN OIL [2] AND BROTH, AND +THEN ROAST IN THE OVEN OR BROIL ON THE GRIDIRON. + + [1] "Frenched," the meat here being pork tenderloin. + + [2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more + acceptable. + + + +IX + +HAM + _PERNA_ + + +[287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured] + _PERNAM_ + +THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER OF FIGS AND SOME THREE +LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES; +THESE ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR +AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH +THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake +slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2]. + + [1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a + preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened. + + [2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to + the instructions as closely as possible, using regular + pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were + retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done + and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a + consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of + Olympus would have sneezed at. + + In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on + the wall of his establishment: _Ubi perna cocta est si + convivae apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut + caccabum._ + + When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper + for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are + convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his + guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were + cooked. + + +[288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER + _PERNAE _[1]_ COCTURAM_ + +HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER +[baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER, +WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel +containing red-hot embers]. + + [1] _Perna_ is usually applied to shoulder of pork, + fresh, also cured. + + _Coxa_ is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. + Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 289. + + + +X + + +[289] FRESH HAM + _MUSTEIS _[1]_ PETASONEM_ [2] + +A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE +SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS, +SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT'S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED +WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE, +PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS +DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK +SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF +IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4]. + + [1] _Musteus_, fresh, young, new; _vinum mustum_, new + wine, must. Properly perhaps, _Petasonem ex mustaceis_; + cf. note 3. + + [2] Hum. _verum petaso coxa cum crure_ [shank] _esse + dicitur...._ + + Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham. + + [3] A certain biscuit or cake made of must, spices and + pepper, perhaps baked on laurel leaves. _Mustaceus_ was + a kind of cake, the flour of which had been kneaded with + must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was baked upon + laurel leaves. + + [4] Tor. continues without interruption. He has the + three foregoing formulae thrown into one. + + + +XI + + +[290] BACON, SALT PORK + _LARIDI _[1]_ COCTURA_ + +COVER WITH WATER AND COOK WITH PLENTY OF DILL; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE +OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT. + + [1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation + of _laridum_, and now accepts the word in its proper + sense. This rather belated correction by Lister + confirms the correctness of our own earlier + observations. Cf. note to {Rx} Nos. 41 and 148. + + + +XII + +LIVERS AND LUNGS + _JECINORA SIVE PULMONES_ + + +[291] SHEEP LIVER + _JECINORA H{OE}DINA VEL AGNINA_ [1] + +COOK THUS: MAKE A MIXTURE OF WATER, MEAD, EGGS AND MILK IN WHICH +THOROUGHLY SOAK THE SLICED LIVER. STEW THE LIVER IN WINE SAUCE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Iecinera h{oe}dina_. + + +[292] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LUNG + _ALITER IN PULMONIBUS_ + +LIVER AND LUNG ARE ALSO COOKED THIS WAY: [1] SOAK WELL IN MILK, STRAIN +IT OFF IF OFFENSIVE IN TASTE [2] BREAK 2 EGGS AND ADD A LITTLE SALT, +MIX IN A SPOONFUL HONEY AND FILL THE LUNG WITH IT, BOIL AND SLICE [3]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used + nowadays. The soaking of livers in milk is quite common; + it removes the offensive taste of the gall. + + [3] G.-V. continue without interruption. + + +[293] A HASH OF LIVER + _ALITER_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE, PURE OIL, CHOP THE +LIGHTS [1] FINE AND ADD WINE SAUCE [2]. + + [1] Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are + thus named. + + [2] List., Tor., G.-V. have both recipes in one. Dann. + is in doubt whether to separate them or not. + + + +XIII + +HOME-MADE SWEET DISHES AND HONEY SWEET-MEATS + _DULCIA DOMESTICA _[1]_ ET MELCAE_ + + +[294] HOME-MADE SWEETS + _DULCIA DOMESTICA_ + +LITTLE HOME CONFECTIONS (WHICH ARE CALLED DULCIARIA) ARE MADE THUS: +[2] LITTLE PALMS OR (AS THEY ARE ORDINARILY CALLED) [3] DATES ARE +STUFFED--AFTER THE SEEDS HAVE BEEN REMOVED--WITH A NUT OR WITH NUTS +AND GROUND PEPPER, SPRINKLED WITH SALT ON THE OUTSIDE AND ARE CANDIED +IN HONEY AND SERVED [4]. + + [1] _Dulcia_, sweetmeats, cakes; hence _dulciarius_, a + pastry cook or confectioner. + + The fact that here attention is drawn to home-made sweet + dishes may clear up the absence of regular baking and + dessert formulae in Apicius. The trade of the + _dulciarius_ was so highly developed at that time that + the professional bakers and confectioners supplied the + entire home market with their wares, making it + convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook to + compete with their organized business, a condition which + largely exists in our modern highly civilized centers of + population today. Cf. "Cooks." + + [2 + 3] Tor. + + [4] Still being done today in the same manner. + + +[295] ANOTHER SWEETMEAT + _ALITER DULCIA_ + +GRATE [scrape, peel] SOME VERY BEST FRESH APHROS [1] AND IMMERSE IN +MILK. WHEN SATURATED PLACE IN THE OVEN TO HEAT BUT NOT TO DRY OUT; +WHEN THOROUGHLY HOT RETIRE FROM OVEN, POUR OVER SOME HONEY, STIPPLE +[the fruit] SO THAT THE HONEY MAY PENETRATE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] +AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor., Tac., Lan. _musteos aphros_; Vat. Ms., G.-V. + _afros_; List. _apios_, i.e. celery, which is farthest + from the mark. Goll. interprets this a "cider apple," + reminiscent, probably, of _musteos_, which is fresh, + new, young, and which has here nothing to do with cider. + + _Aphros_ is not identified. Perhaps the term stood for + Apricots (Old English: Aphricocks) or some other African + fruit or plant; Lister's celery is to be rejected on + gastronomical grounds. + + The above treatment would correspond to that which is + given apricots and peaches today. They are peeled, + immersed in cream and sweetened with sugar. Apicius' + heating of the fruit in milk is new to us; it sounds + good, for it has a tendency to parboil any hard fruit, + make it more digestible and reduce the fluid to a creamy + consistency. + + [2] The "pepper" again, as pointed out in several other + places, here is some spice of agreeable taste as are + used in desserts today. + + +[296] ANOTHER SWEET DISH + _ALITER DULCIA_ + +BREAK [slice] FINE WHITE BREAD, CRUST REMOVED, INTO RATHER LARGE +PIECES WHICH SOAK IN MILK [and beaten eggs] FRY IN OIL, COVER WITH +HONEY AND SERVE [1]. + + [1] "French" Toast, indeed!--_Sapienti sat!_ + + +[297] ANOTHER SWEET + _ALITER DULCIA_ + +IN A CHAFING-DISH PUT [1] HONEY, PURE WINE, RAISIN WINE, RUE, PINE +NUTS, NUTS, COOKED SPELT, ADD CRUSHED AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS [2] AND +SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Piperato mittis_. _Piperatum_ is a dish + prepared with pepper, any spicy dish; the term may here + be applied to the bowl in which the porridge is served. + Tac. _Dulcia piperata mittis_. + + [2] Dann. Almonds. + + +[298] ANOTHER SWEET + _ALITER DULCIA_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, RUE, AND RAISIN WINE WITH MILK, AND COOK +THE MIXTURE [1] WITH A FEW EGGS WELL WORKED IN, COVER WITH HONEY, +SPRINKLE WITH [crushed nuts, etc.] AND SERVE. + + [1] _Tractam_, probably with a starch added, or else it + is a nut custard, practically a repetition of {Rx} Nos. + 129 and 143. + + +[299] ANOTHER SWEET + _ALITER DULCIA_ + +TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN THE HOT WATER +[bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON +SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE +SMALL COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, DIP INTO +[hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE. + + [1] This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal + is used in {Rx} No. 298 also without which this present + preparation would not "stand up." + + [2] It is freely admitted that the word "pepper" not + always stands for the spice that we know by this name. + Cf. note 2 to {Rx} No. 295 _et al._ + + +[300] A STILL BETTER WAY + _ALITER_ + +IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER. + + +[301] CUSTARD + _TYROPATINAM_ + +ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT +WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A +PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE +THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON +A SLOW FIRE [in hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [3]. + + [1] _Sextarium._ + + [2] _ad heminam._ + + [3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a + far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries + say that the _tyropatina_ is a kind of cheese cake. It + must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient + definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably + because of the similarity in appearance and texture. + + Cf. {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143. + + +[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLEE [1] + _OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE_ + +FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO +MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD +THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in +the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A +SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3] +AND SERVE [4]. + + [1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as + "Floating Island"; he, the chef, has completely + misunderstood the ancient formula. + + [2] Tor. _sinas bullire_--which is correct. List. + _facies ut bulliat_--which is monstrous. + + [3] G.-V. + + [4] Tor. continues without interruption. + + +[303] CHEESE AND HONEY + _MEL ET CASEUM_ [1] + +PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH +SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2]. + + [1] G.-V. _Melca ... stum_; List. _mel castum_, refined + honey; Tac. _Mel caseum_; Tor. _mel, caseum_. Cf. {Rx} + No. 294. + + [2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use + salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; + sometimes a little sugar. + + + +XIV + + +[304] BULBS [1] + _BULBOS_ + +SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER. + + [1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw + sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to + {Rx} No. 307. + + +[305] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN +OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, +HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A +LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. _tundes_; probably a typographical error, as + this should read _fundis_, i.e. _infundis_. Wanting in + the other texts. + + +[306] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PUREE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY, +HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. + + [1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of + {Rx} No. 305, repeated by Tor. + + +[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1] + _VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_ + +COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO +SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH +THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER. + + [1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and + business-like recital of recipes is broken by some + interesting quotation or remark. + + Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a + posterior reader. + + [2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quaerunt_--"seek the + mouth of Venus." + + This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many + writers, as might be expected, into fanciful + speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram + mire stimulant, unde et salaces a Martiali vocantur._ 1. + XIII, Ep. 34: + + _Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra + Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._ + + We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works, + M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we + read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of + reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes," + and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable + vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to + include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds + the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84, + Diaeteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying: + _Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._ + + +[308] FRIED BULBS + _BULBOS FRICTOS_ + +ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum]. + + + +XV + +MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1] + _FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_ + + +[309] MORELS [2] + _FUNGI FARNEI_ + +MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO +DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the +mushrooms in]. + + [1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which + creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used + here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. {Rx} No. 115. + + [2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms." + + +[310] FOR MORELS + _IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_ + +PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL. + + +[311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS + _ALITER FUNGI FARNEI_ + +IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER. + + +[312] MUSHROOMS + _BOLETOS FUNGOS_ + +FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN +CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE BEFORE SERVING. + + [1] Tor. + + +[313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS + _BOLETOS ALITER_ [1] + +MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED IN BROTH. +SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT. + + [1] Tor. _Boletorum coliculi_; G.-V. _calyculos_. + + +[314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS + _BOLETOS ALITER_ + +SLICE THE MUSHROOM STEMS [1] [stew them as directed above] AND FINISH +BY COVERING THEM WITH EGGS [2] ADDING PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE HONEY, +BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE. + + [1] _Thyrsos._ + + [2] G.-V. _in patellam novam_; nothing said about eggs. + Tor. _concisos in patellam; ovaque perfundes_; Tac. _ova + perfundis_. + + A mushroom omelette. + + + +XVI + + +[315] TRUFFLES + _TUBERA_ + +SCRAPE [brush] THE TRUFFLES, PARBOIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PUT SEVERAL +OF THEM ON A SKEWER, HALF FRY THEM; THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN +WITH OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, WINE, PEPPER, AND HONEY. WHEN DONE +[retire the truffles] BIND [the liquor] WITH ROUX, DECORATE THE +TRUFFLES NICELY AND SERVE [1]. + + [1] This formula clearly shows up the master Apicius. + Truffles, among all earthly things, are the most + delicate and most subtle in flavor. Only a master cook + is privileged to handle them and to do them justice. + + Today, whenever we are fortunate enough to obtain the + best fresh truffles, we are pursuing almost the same + methods of preparation as described by Apicius. + + The commercially canned truffles bear not even a + resemblance of their former selves. + + +[316] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE TRUFFLES + _ALITER TUBERA_ + +[Par]BOIL THE TRUFFLES, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND FASTEN THEM ON SKEWERS, +HALF FRY THEM AND THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH BROTH, VIRGIN +OIL, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE PURE WINE [1] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE +HONEY; ALLOW THEM TO FINISH [gently and well covered] WHEN DONE, BIND +THE LIQUOR WITH ROUX, PRICK THE TRUFFLES SO THEY MAY BECOME SATURATED +WITH THE JUICE, DRESS THEM NICELY, AND WHEN REAL HOT, SERVE. + + [1] Preferably Sherry or Madeira. + + +[317] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +IF YOU WISH YOU MAY ALSO WRAP THE TRUFFLES IN CAUL OF PORK, BRAISE AND +SO SERVE THEM. + + +[318] ANOTHER TRUFFLE + _ALITER TUBERA_ + +STEW THE TRUFFLES IN WINE SAUCE, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, +BROTH, HONEY, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL. + + +[319] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES + _ALITER TUBERA_ + +BRAISE THE TRUFFLES WITH PEPPER, MINT, RUE, HONEY, OIL, AND A LITTLE +WINE. HEAT AND SERVE. + + +[320] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES + _ALITER TUBERA_ [1] + +PEPPER, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, MINT, CELERY, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, OR WINE, +SALT OR BROTH, A LITTLE OIL. + + [1] Wanting in G.-V. + + +[321] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES + _ALITER TUBERA_ [1] + +COOK THE TRUFFLES WITH LEEKS, SALT, PEPPER, CHOPPED CORIANDER, THE +VERY BEST WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. + + [1] Wanting in Tor. + + This, to our notion of eating truffles, is the best + formula, save {Rx} Nos. 315 and 316. + + + +XVII + +TARO, DASHEEN + _IN COLOCASIO_ + + +[322] COLOCASIUM [1] TARO, DASHEEN + _COLOCASIUM_ + +FOR THE COLOCASIUM (WHICH IS REALLY THE COLOCASIA PLANT, ALSO CALLED +"EGYPTIAN BEAN") USE [2] PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, OR BROTH, AND A +LITTLE OIL; WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX [3] COLOCASIUM IS THE ROOT OF THE +EGYPTIAN BEAN WHICH IS USED EXCLUSIVELY [4]. + + [1] Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 172, 216, 244; also the + copious explanations by Humelberg, fol. III. + + [2] Tor. who is trying hard to explain the _colocasium_. + His name, "Egyptian Bean" may be due to the mealiness + and bean-like texture of the _colocasium_ tuber; + otherwise there is no resemblance to a bean, except, + perhaps, the seed pod which is not used for food. This + simile has led other commentators to believe that the + _colocasium_ in reality was a bean. + + The U.S. Department of Agriculture has in recent years + imported various specimens of that taro species + (belonging to the _colocasia_), and the plants are now + successfully being farmed in the southern parts of the + United States, with fair prospects of becoming an + important article of daily diet. The Department has + favored us repeatedly with samples of the taro, or + dasheen, (_Colocasium Antiquorum_) and we have made many + different experiments with this agreeable, delightful + and important "new" vegetable. It can be prepared in + every way like a potato, and possesses advantages over + the potato as far as value of nutrition, flavor, culture + and keeping qualities are concerned. As a commercial + article, it is not any more expensive than any good kind + of potato. It grows where the potato will not thrive, + and vice versa. It thus saves much in freight to parts + where the potato does not grow. + + The ancient _colocasium_ is no doubt a close relative of + the modern dasheen or taro. The Apician _colocasium_ was + perhaps very similar to the ordinary Elephant-Ear, + _colocasium Antiquorum Schott_, often called _caladium + esculentum_, or _tanyah_, more recently called the + "Dasheen" which is a corruption of the French "de + Chine"--from China--indicating the supposed origin of + this variety of taro. The dasheen is a broad-leaved + member of the _arum_ family. The name dasheen originated + in the West Indies whence it was imported into the + United States around 1910, and the name is now + officially adopted. + + Mark Catesby, in his Natural History of Carolina, + Florida and the Bahama Islands, London, 1781, describes + briefly under the name of _arum maximum Aegypticum_ a + plant which was doubtless one of the tanyahs or taros. + He says: "This was a welcome improvement among the + negroes and was esteemed a blessing; they being + delighted with all their African food, particularly + this, which a great part of Africa subsists much on." + + Torinus, groping for the right name, calls it variously + _colosium_, _coledium_, _coloesium_, till he finally + gets it right, _colocasium_. + + [3] The root or tubers of this plant was used by the + ancients as a vegetable. They probably boiled and then + peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces with + the above ingredients, heated them in bouillon stock and + thickened the gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is + very starchy, little roux is required for binding. + + [4] Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the + margin of his book. + + + +XVIII + +SNAILS + _COCHLEAS_ + + +[323] MILK-FED SNAILS + _COCHLEAS LACTE PASTAS_ + +TAKE SNAILS AND SPONGE THEM; PULL THEM OUT OF THE SHELLS BY THE +MEMBRANE AND PLACE THEM FOR A DAY IN A VESSEL WITH MILK AND SALT [1] +RENEW THE MILK DAILY. HOURLY [2] CLEAN THE SNAILS OF ALL REFUSE, AND +WHEN THEY ARE SO FAT THAT THEY CAN NO LONGER RETIRE [to their shells] +FRY THEM IN OIL AND SERVE THEM WITH WINE SAUCE. IN A SIMILAR WAY THEY +MAY BE FED ON A MILK PORRIDGE [3]. + + [1] Just enough so they do not drown. + + [2] Wanting in Tor. + + [3] The Romans raised snails for the table in special + places called _cochlearia_. Fluvius Hirpinus is credited + with having popularized the snail in Rome a little + before the civil wars between Caesar and Pompey. If we + could believe Varro, snails grew to enormous + proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted of + a head of lettuce, three snails, two eggs, a barley + cake, sweet wine, refrigerated in snow. + + Snails as a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the + Germanic races who do not hesitate to eat similar + animals and are very fond of such food as oysters, + clams, mussels, cocles, etc., much of which they even + eat in the raw state. + + +[324] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL AND [a sauce of] LASER, +BROTH, PEPPER AND OIL IS UNDERLAID; OR THE FRIED SNAILS ARE FULLY +COVERED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND CUMIN. + + Tor. divides this into three articles. + + +[325] ANOTHER WAY FOR SNAILS + _ALITER COCHLEAS_ + +THE LIVE SNAILS ARE SPRINKLED WITH MILK MIXED WITH THE FINEST WHEAT +FLOUR, WHEN FAT AND NICE AND PLUMP THEY ARE COOKED. + + + +XIX + +EGGS + _OVA_ + + +[326] FRIED EGGS + _OVA FRIXA_ + +FRIED EGGS ARE FINISHED IN WINE SAUCE. + + +[327] BOILED EGGS + _OVA ELIXA_ + +ARE SEASONED WITH BROTH, OIL, PURE WINE, OR ARE SERVED WITH BROTH, +PEPPER AND LASER. + + +[328] WITH POACHED EGGS + _IN OVIS HAPALIS_ + +SERVE PEPPER, LOVAGE, SOAKED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. + + +END OF BOOK VII + +_EXPLICIT APICII POLYTELES: LIBER SEPTIMUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +APICIUS + +Book VIII + + + + +{Illustration: CRATICULA + +Combination broiler and stove; charcoal fuel. The sliding rods are +adjustable to the size of food to be cooked thereon. Pans of various +sizes would rest on these rods. In the rear two openings to hold the +caccabus, or stewpot, of which we have four different illustrations. +The craticula usually rested on top of a stationary brick oven or +range. The apparatus, being moveable, is very ingenious. The roughness +of the surface of this specimen is caused by corrosion and lava +adhering to its metal frame. Found in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, +121321; Field M., 26145.} + + + + +{Illustration: CACCABUS + +A stewpot, marmite, kettle. The cover, rising from the circumference +to the center in a succession of steps, fits inside the mouth of the +kettle. Ntl. Mus., Naples 72766; Field M., 24178.} + + + + +BOOK VIII. QUADRUPEDS + +_Lib. VIII. Tetrapus_ + + + CHAP. I. WILD BOAR. + CHAP. II. VENISON. + CHAP. III. CHAMOIS, GAZELLE. + CHAP. IV. WILD SHEEP. + CHAP. V. BEEF AND VEAL. + CHAP. VI. KID AND LAMB. + CHAP. VII. PIG. + CHAP. VIII. HARE. + CHAP. IX. DORMOUSE. + + + +I + + +[329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS + _APER ITA CONDITUR_ + +IT IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED CUMIN AND THUS LEFT. +THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED +PEPPER. A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE. + + [1] Lan., Tor. _vel_ instead of _mel_. + + +[330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR + _ALITER IN APRO_ + +YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE +AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR. + + +[331] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK [sauce for] BOAR + _ALITER IN APRO_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDLESS MYRTLE BERRIES, CORIANDER, +ONIONS; ADD HONEY, WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH +ROUX. THE BOAR ROASTED IN THE OVEN, IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE, WHICH +YOU MAY USE FOR ANY KIND OF ROAST GAME [1]. + + [1] Tor. continues without interruption. + + +[332] MAKE A HOT SAUCE FOR ROAST BOAR THUS + _JURA FERVENTIA IN APRUM ASSUM FACIES SIC_ [1] + +CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, SATURY, SAFFRON, +TOASTED NUTS, OR TOASTED ALMONDS, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND A +LITTLE OIL. + + [1] Tor. _In aprum uero assum_, indicating, perhaps, + that ordinary pork also was prepared "boar style." Cf. + {Rx} No. 362. + + +[333] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR BOAR + _ALITER IN APRUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, TOASTED NUTS, WINE, VINEGAR, +BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN THE SIMPLE BROTH [1] IS BOILING +INCORPORATE THE CRUSHED THINGS AND STIR WITH AN AROMATIC BOUQUET OF +ONIONS AND RUE. IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE THIS A RICHER SAUCE, TIE IT WITH +WHITES OF EGG, STIRRING THE LIQUID EGG IN GENTLY. SPRINKLE WITH A +LITTLE PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Presumably the broth or stock in which the meat was + roasted or braised. + + +[334] SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR + _IUS IN APRUM ELIXUM_ + +REAL SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR IS COMPOSED IN THIS MANNER [1] PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, +BROTH AND OIL. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + +[335] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR [1] + _IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_ + +PEPPER, CUMIN, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CORIANDER SEED, DILL SEED, CELERY +SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE ONION, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD, BROTH AND +OIL. + + [1] {Rx} No. 336 precedes this formula in Tor. + + +[336] ANOTHER COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR + _ALITER IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE SILPHIUM, +RATHER MORE MUSTARD SEED, ADD PURE WINE, SOME GREEN HERBS, A LITTLE +ONION, CRUSHED NUTS FROM THE PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, SOME MORE PURE WINE, COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST [and add] BROTH +AND OIL [1]. + + [1] Strongly resembling our _vinaigrette_. + + +[337] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOAR + _ALITER [ius] IN APRO_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, CUMIN, FENNEL +SEED, RUE, BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE; HEAT, WHEN DONE TIE WITH ROUX; +COVER THE MEAT WITH THIS SAUCE SO AS TO PENETRATE THE MEAT AND SERVE. + + +[338] SHOULDER OF BOAR IS STUFFED IN THIS MANNER + _PERNA APRUNA ITA IMPLETUR_ [1] + +LOOSEN THE MEAT FROM THE BONES BY MEANS OF A WOODEN STICK IN ORDER TO +FILL THE CAVITY LEFT BY THE BONES WITH DRESSING WHICH IS INTRODUCED +THROUGH A FUNNEL. [The dressing season with] CRUSHED PEPPER, LAUREL +BERRIES AND RUE; IF YOU LIKE, ADD LASER, THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, +REDUCED MUST AND SPRINKLE WITH FRESH OIL. WHEN THE FILLING IS DONE, +TIE THE PARTS THUS STUFFED IN LINEN, PLACE THEM IN THE STOCK POT IN +WHICH THEY ARE TO BE COOKED AND BOIL THEM IN SEA WATER, WITH A SPRIG +OF LAUREL AND DILL [2]. + + [1] G.-V. _Terentina_, referring to a place in the + Campus Martius, where the _ludi seculares_ were + celebrated. Tor. _recentia_, fresh. + + [2] The dressing consisted principally of pork or veal + pounded fine, seasoned as directed above, and tied with + eggs, as is often prescribed by Apicius. + + To verify how little high class cookery methods have + changed consult one of the foremost of modern + authorities, Auguste Escoffier, of the Carlton and Ritz + hotels, London and Paris, who in his "Guide Culinaire" + presents this dish under its ancient Italian name of + _Zampino_. + + + +II + +VENISON [Stag] + _IN CERVO_ + + +[339] SAUCE FOR STAG + _IUS IN CERVUM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY [1] ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, +FENNEL SEED, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE [2] RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE +OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE COOKED MEAT IMMERSE IN THIS +SAUCE [braise] TO PENETRATE AND TO SOFTEN, AND SERVE. FOR BROAD HORN +DEER AS WELL AS FOR OTHER VENISON FOLLOW SIMILAR METHODS AND USE THE +SAME CONDIMENTS. + + [1] Tor. _carenum_; Hum. _legendum: careum_. + + [2] Wanting in Tor. + + +[340] ANOTHER WAY [1] + _ALITER_ + +PARBOIL AND BRAISE THE VENISON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY +SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX +AND POUR OVER THE ROAST. + + [1] Tor. Another little sauce for venison. + + +[341] VENISON SAUCE + _IUS IN CERVO_ + +MIX PEPPER, LOVAGE, ONION, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, BROTH, +MUSTARD, VINEGAR, OIL [1]. + + [1] Resembling a _vinaigrette_, except for the nuts and + dates. + + +[342] PREPARATION OF VENISON + _CERVINAE CONDITURA_ + +PEPPER, CUMIN, CONDIMENTS, PARSLEY, ONION, RUE, HONEY, BROTH, MINT, +RAISIN WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX WHEN +BOILING. + + +[343] HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON + _IURA FERVENTIA IN CERVO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CUMIN, TOASTED NUTS OR ALMONDS, HONEY, +VINEGAR, WINE, A LITTLE OIL; ADD BROTH AND STIR WELL. + + +[344] MARINADE FOR ROAST VENISON + _EMBAMMA [1] IN CERVINAM ASSAM_ + +PEPPER, NARD LEAVES, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, GREEN RUE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, ADD DATES, RAISINS AND OIL. + + [1] Tor. _Intinctus_, same; a _marinade_, a pickle or + sauce in which to preserve or to flavor raw meat or + fish. + + +[345] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON + _ALITER IN CERVUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; STIR WITH A FAGOT OF LEEKS AND SATURY [1]. + + [1] A fagot of herbs; regarding this method of + flavoring. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 277 _seq._ + + A sauce resembling our Cumberland, very popular with + venison which is sweetened with currant jelly instead of + the above prunes. + + + +III + +CHAMOIS, GAZELLE + _IN CAPREA_ + + +[346] SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT + _IUS IN CAPREA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE SEED, HONEY, MUSTARD, +VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. + + +[347] SAUCE FOR ROAST WILD GOAT + _IUS IN CAPREA ASSA_ + +PEPPER, HERBS, RUE, ONION, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL, +BIND WITH ROUX. + + +[347a] STILL ANOTHER + _ALITER_ + +AS ABOVE IS MADE WITH PARSLEY AND MARJORAM [1]. + + [1] Wanting in G.-V. + + +[347b] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT + _ALITER IUS IN CAPREA_ + +PEPPER, SPICES, PARSLEY, A LITTLE ORIGANY, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, RAISIN +WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX [1]. + + [1] Wanting in Tor. + + + +IV + +WILD SHEEP + _IN OVIFERO (HOC EST OVIS SILVATICA)_ [1] + + +[348] SAUCE FOR MOUNTAIN SHEEP + _IUS IN OVIFERO FERVENS_ + +[THAT IS, (ROAST) THE MEAT, PREPARE A SAUCE OF] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CUMIN, DRY MINT [3], THYME, SILPHIUM, MOISTEN WITH WINE, ADD STEWED +DAMASCUS PRUNES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE,--ENOUGH TO +COLOR--AND STIR WITH A WHIP OF ORIGANY AND DRY MINT [3]. + + [1] G.-V., List. _in ovi fero_; Dann. "wild eggs," i.e., + the eggs of game birds, and he comes to the conclusion + that game birds themselves are meant to be used in this + formula, as no reference to "eggs" is made. + + There can be no doubt but what this formula deals with + the preparation of sheep; Torinus says expressly: + _oviferum, hoc est, carnem ovis sylvestris_--the meat of + sheep from the woods, mountain sheep. _Ferum_ is "wild," + "game," but it also means "pregnant." For this double + sense the formula may be interpreted as dealing with + either wild sheep, or with pregnant sheep, or, more + probably, with unborn baby lamb, which in antiquity as + today is often killed principally for its skin. + + [2] Tor. + + [3] Mint is still associated with lamb; the above sauce + appears to be merely an elaborate Roman ancestor of our + modern mint sauce, served with lamb, the chief + ingredients of which are mint, vinegar and sugar, served + both hot and cold. + + +[349] SAUCE FOR ALL KINDS OF GAME, BOILED OR ROAST + _IUS IN VENATIONIBUS OMNIBUS ELIXIS ET ASSIS_ [1] + +8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, RUE, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, JUNIPER, THYME, DRY +MINT, 6 SCRUPLES IN WEIGHT [each] 3 SCRUPLES OF FLEA-BANE; REDUCE ALL +THIS TO THE FINEST POWDER, PUT IT TOGETHER IN A VESSEL WITH SUFFICIENT +HONEY AND USE IT WITH VINEGAR AND GARUM. + + [1] Tor. _Jusculum omni venationi competens_. + + +[350] COLD SAUCE FOR WILD SHEEP + _IUS FRIGIDUM IN OVIFERO_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CUMIN, CRUSHED TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, AND OIL; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER. + + [1] List. _omni fero_; which Dann. interprets, "All kind + of game." Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 348. + + + +V + +BEEF OR VEAL + _BUBULA SIVE VITELLINA_ + + +[351] VEAL STEAK + _VITELLINA FRICTA_ [1] + +[FOR A SAUCE WITH FRIED BEEF OR VEAL TAKE] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY +SEED, CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONION, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, +OIL, AND REDUCED MUST. + + [1] Evidently a beef or veal steak _saute_. Beef did not + figure very heavily on the dietary of the ancients in + contrasts to present modes which make beef the most + important meat, culinarily speaking. The above sauce, + save for the raisins and the honey, resembles the modern + _Bordelaise_, often served with beef steaks _saute_, in + contrast to the grilled steaks which are served with + _maitre d'hotel_ butter. + + +[352] VEAL OR BEEF WITH LEEKS + _VITULINAM [1] SIVE BULULAM CUM PORRIS_ + +[or] WITH QUINCES [2] OR WITH ONIONS, OR WITH DASHEENS [3] [use] +BROTH, PEPPER, LASER AND A LITTLE OIL. + + [1] G.-V. same as _vitellinam_. + + [2] Tor. _cydoniis_; List. _succidaneis_. + + [3] Cf. {Rx} No. 332 _et al._ + + +[353] FRICASSEE OF VEAL + _IN VITULINAM ELIXAM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND COVER THE MEAT. + + +[354] ANOTHER VEAL FRICASSEE + _ALITER IN VITULINA EXLIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, MUSTARD AND OIL. + + + +VI + +KID OR LAMB + _IN HAEDO VEL AGNO_ + + +[355] DAINTY DISHES OF KID OR OF LAMB + _COPADIA HAEDINA SIVE AGNINA_ + +COOK WITH PEPPER AND BROTH, ALSO WITH VARIOUS ORDINARY BEANS [1] +BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER, CUMIN, DUMPLINGS [2] AND A LITTLE OIL [3]. + + [1] _cum faseolis_, green string beans. + + [2] Tor. _imbrato_; G.-V. _inbracto_, broken bread, + regular dumplings. + + [3] Lamb and beans is a favorite combination, as in the + French _haricot_, made with white beans, or boiled lamb + with fresh string beans, quite a modern dish. Torinus + omits the cumin, which is quite characteristic. + + +[356] ANOTHER LAMB STEW + _ALITER HAEDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_ + +PUT [pieces of] KID OR LAMB IN THE STEW POT WITH CHOPPED ONION AND +CORIANDER. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, AND COOK WITH BROTH OIL AND +WINE. PUT IN A DISH AND TIE WITH ROUX [1]. + + [1] It appears that the binding should be done before + the stew is dished out; but this sentence illustrates + the consummate art of Apicius. The good cook carefully + separates the meat (as it is cooked) from the sauce, + eliminates impurities, binds and strains it and puts the + meat back into the finished sauce. This is the ideal way + of making a stew which evidently was known to Apicius. + + +[357] ANOTHER LAMB STEW + _ALITER HAEDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_ + +ADD TO THE PARBOILED MEAT THE RAW HERBS THAT HAVE BEEN CRUSHED IN THE +MORTAR AND COOK IT. GOAT MEAT IS COOKED LIKEWISE. + + +[358] BROILED KID OR LAMB STEAK + _HAEDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_ + +KID AFTER BEING COOKED IN BROTH AND OIL IS SLICED AND MARINATED [1] +WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LASER, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. IT IS THEN GRILLED +ON THE BROILER AND SERVED WITH GRAVY. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE +UP. + + [1] The marinade is used to make the gravy. + + +[359] ROAST KID OR LAMB + _ALITER HAEDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_ + +[LET US ROAST THE KID OR LAMB, ADDING] [1] HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, 6 +SCRUPLES OF FOALBIT [2] A LITTLE GINGER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, A +LITTLE LASER, A PINT OF BEST BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL [3]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] _Asarum_; Tor. _aseros_; List. _asareos_--the herb + foalbit, foalfoot, wild spikenard. + + [3] Tor. continues without interruption. + + +[360] STUFFED BONED KID OR LAMB + _HAEDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ [1] + +MILK-FED [2] KID OR LAMB IS CAREFULLY BONED THROUGH THE THROAT SO AS +TO CREATE A PAUNCH OR BAG; THE INTESTINES ARE PRESERVED WHOLE IN A +MANNER THAT ONE CAN BLOW OR INFLATE THEM AT THE HEAD IN ORDER TO EXPEL +THE EXCREMENTS AT THE OTHER END; THE BODY IS WASHED CAREFULLY AND IS +FILLED WITH A LIQUID DRESSING. THEREUPON TIE IT CAREFULLY AT THE +SHOULDERS, PUT IT INTO THE ROASTING PAN, BASTE WELL. WHEN DONE, BOIL +THE GRAVY WITH MILK AND PEPPER, PREVIOUSLY CRUSHED, AND BROTH, REDUCED +WINE, A LITTLE REDUCED MUST AND ALSO OIL; AND TO THE BOILING GRAVY ADD +ROUX. TO PLAY SAFE PUT THE ROAST IN A NETTING, BAG OR LITTLE BASKET +AND CAREFULLY TIE TOGETHER, ADD A LITTLE SALT TO THE BOILING GRAVY. +AFTER THIS HAS BOILED WELL THREE TIMES, TAKE THE MEAT OUT, BOIL THE +BROTH OVER AGAIN [to reduce it] INCORPORATE WITH THE ABOVE DESCRIBED +LIQUOR, ADDING THE NECESSARY SEASONING. + + [1] "Hollowed out like a pipe." + + [2] G.-V. _syringiatus_ (_id est mammotestus_). Tor. + _mammocestis_. We are guessing. + + [3] We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a + dish were made of lamb today. + + This article, like the following appears to be a + contraction of two different formulae. + + +[361] STUFFED KID OR LAMB ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER HAEDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ + +KID OR LAMB IS THUS PREPARED AND SEASONED: TAKE [1] 1 PINT MILK, 4 +OUNCES HONEY, 1 OUNCE PEPPER, A LITTLE SALT, A LITTLE LASER, GRAVY [of +the lamb] 8 OUNCES CRUSHED DATES, A SPOONFUL OIL, A LITTLE BROTH, A +SPOONFUL HONEY [2] A PINT OF GOOD WINE AND A LITTLE ROUX. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] G.-V. + + +[362] THE RAW KID OR LAMB [1] + _HAEDUS SIVE AGNUS CRUDUS_ + +IS RUBBED WITH OIL AND PEPPER AND SPRINKLED WITH PLENTY OF CLEAN SALT +AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACED IN THE OVEN, SERVED ROAST. + + [1] It is quite evident that this sentence belongs to + the preceding formula; but all the texts make a distinct + separation. + + +[363] KID OR LAMB A LA TARPEIUS [1] + _HAEDUM SIVE AGNUM TARPEIANUM_ + +BEFORE COOKING THE LAMB TRUSS IT PROPERLY AND [marinate it in] PEPPER, +RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, AND A LITTLE THYME AND BROTH. PLACE THE ROAST IN +A PAN WITH OIL, BASTE WELL WHILE IN THE OVEN, WHEN COOKED THOROUGHLY, +FILL THE PAN WITH CRUSHED SATURY, ONIONS, RUE, DATES, BROTH, WINE, +REDUCED WINE, AND OIL; WHEN THIS GRAVY IS WELL COOKED [strain] PUT IT +UP IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. _Tatarpeianum_. Tarpeius, family name of + Romans. Humelberg thinks this dish is named for the + people who dwelled on Mount Tarpeius. This was the + Tarpeian Rock from which malefactors were thrown. + + +[364] KID OR LAMB PARTHIAN STYLE + _HAEDUM SIVE AGNUM PARTHICUM_ + +PUT [the roast] IN THE OVEN; CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONION, SATURY, STONED +DAMASCUS PLUMS, A LITTLE LASER, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. HOT WINE IS +SERVED ON THE SIDE AND TAKEN WITH VINEGAR. + + +[365] CREAMED KID FLAVORED WITH LAUREL [1] + _HAEDUM LAUREATUM EX LACTE_ + +[The kid] DRESS AND PREPARE, BONE, REMOVE THE INTESTINES WITH THE +RENNET AND WASH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER ROOT, 2 +LAUREL BERRIES, A LITTLE CHAMOMILE AND 2 OR 3 BRAINS, ALL OF WHICH +CRUSH. MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND SEASON WITH SALT. OVER THIS MIXTURE +STRAIN 2 PINTS [2] OF MILK, 2 LITTLE SPOONS OF HONEY. WITH THIS +FORCEMEAT STUFF THE INTESTINES AND WRAP THEM AROUND THE KID. COVER THE +ROAST WITH CAUL AND PARCHMENT PAPER TIGHTENED WITH SKEWERS, AND PLACE +IT IN THE ROASTING PAN, ADDING BROTH, OIL AND WINE. WHEN HALF DONE, +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH THE ROAST'S OWN GRAVY AND A LITTLE +REDUCED MUST; PUT THIS BACK INTO THE PAN AND WHEN THE ROAST IS DONE +COMPLETELY GARNISH IT AND BIND [the gravy] WITH ROUX AND SERVE. + + [1] Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, the + prize-winning meat, but the laurel may refer to the + flavor used. + + List. remarks that cow's milk was very scarce in Italy; + likewise was goat's and sheep's milk; hence it is + possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own + milk. + + [2] pints--_sextarii_. + + + +VII + +PIG + _IN PORCELLO_ + + +[366] SUCKLING PIG STUFFED TWO WAYS + _PORCELLUM FARSILEM DUOBUS GENERIBUS_ + +PREPARE, REMOVE THE ENTRAILS BY THE THROAT BEFORE THE CARCASS HARDENS +[immediately after killing]. MAKE AN OPENING UNDER THE EAR, FILL AN OX +BLADDER WITH TARENTINE [1] SAUSAGE MEAT AND ATTACH A TUBE SUCH AS THE +BIRD KEEPER USES TO THE NECK OF THE BLADDER AND SQUEEZE THE DRESSING +INTO THE EAR AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE TO FILL THE BODY. THEN SEAL THE +OPENING WITH PARCHMENT, CLOSE SECURELY [with skewers] AND PREPARE [the +roast for the oven]. + + [1] Tor. _impensam Tarentinam_; G.-V. _Terentinam_. + + The birdkeeper's tube may be an instrument for the + cramming of fowl. + +[366a] THE OTHER DRESSING IS MADE THUS: + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH A LITTLE +BROTH, ADD COOKED BRAINS, RAW EGGS, COOKED SPELT, GRAVY OF THE PIG, +SMALL BIRDS (IF ANY) NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SEASON WITH BROTH. STUFF +THE PIG, CLOSE THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT AND SKEWERS AND PUT IT IN +THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, DRESS AND GARNISH VERY NICELY, GLAZE THE BODY +AND SERVE. + + +[367] ANOTHER SUCKLING PIG + _ALITER PORCELLUM_ + +SALT, CUMIN, LASER; ADD SAUSAGE MEAT. DILUTE WITH BROTH [1] REMOVE THE +WOMB OF THE PIG SO THAT NO PART OF IT REMAINS INSIDE. CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD WINE [2] BRAINS, MIX IN 2 +EGGS, FILL THE [previously] PARBOILED PIG WITH THIS FORCEMEAT, CLOSE +TIGHT, PLACE IN A BASKET AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. WHEN +DONE REMOVE THE SKEWERS BUT IN A MANNER THAT THE GRAVY REMAINS INSIDE. +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. treats the following as a separate article + under the heading of _porcellum liquaminatum_. + + [2] G.-V. _unum_ (one brain) instead of _uinum_. + + +[368] STUFFED BOILED SUCKLING PIG + _PORCELLUM ELIXUM FARSILEM_ + +REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG. PARBOIL. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, +MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD COOKED BRAINS, AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED [1] +LIKEWISE DISSOLVE EGGS, [add] BROTH TO TASTE, MAKE A SAUSAGE [of this +forcemeat] FILL THE PIG WHICH HAS BEEN PARBOILED AND RINSED WITH +BROTH. TIE THE PIG SECURELY IN A BASKET, IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK +POT. REMOVE WHEN DONE, WIPE CLEAN CAREFULLY, SERVE WITHOUT PEPPER. + + [1] To have a forcemeat of the right consistency. + + +[369] ROAST SUCKLING PIG WITH HONEY + _PORCELLUM ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM_ [1] + +EMPTY THE PIG BY THE NECK, CLEAN AND DRY, CRUSH ONE OUNCE PEPPER, +HONEY AND WINE, PLACE [this in a sauce pan and] HEAT; NEXT BREAK DRY +TOAST [2] AND MIX WITH THE THINGS IN THE SAUCE PAN; STIR WITH A WHIP +OF FRESH LAUREL TWIGS [3] SO THAT THE PASTE IS NICE AND SMOOTH UNTIL +SUFFICIENTLY COOKED. THIS DRESSING FILL INTO THE PIG, WRAP IN +PARCHMENT, PLACE IN THE OVEN [roast slowly, when done, glaze with +honey] GARNISH NICELY AND SERVE. + + [1] treated with honey. + + [2] Tor. _tactam siccatam_ for _tractam_. + + [3] Again this very subtle method of flavoring, so often + referred to. This time it is a laurel whip. Cf. {Rx} + Nos. 277 _seq._, 345, 369, 385. + + +[370] MILK-FED PIG, COLD, APICIAN SAUCE + _PORCELLUM LACTE PASTUM ELIXUM CALIDUM IURE FRIGIDO CRUDO APICIANO_ + +SERVE BOILED MILK-FED PIG EITHER HOT OR COLD WITH THIS SAUCE [1] IN A +MORTAR, PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND CRUSH IT. +MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD HONEY, WINE AND BROTH. THE BOILED PIG IS WIPED +OFF HOT WITH A CLEAN TOWEL, [cooled off] COVERED WITH THE SAUCE AND +SERVED [2]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] This sentence wanting in Tor. + + +[371] SUCKLING PIG A LA VITELLIUS [1] + _PORCELLUM VITELLIANUM_ + +SUCKLING PIG CALLED VITELLIAN STYLE IS PREPARED THUS [2] GARNISH THE +PIG LIKE WILD BOAR [3] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, ROAST IN OVEN. IN THE +MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO +TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING VERY LITTLE OIL, HEAT; THE +ROASTING PIG BASTE WITH THIS IN A MANNER SO THAT [the aroma] WILL +PENETRATE THE SKIN. + + [1] Named for Vitellius, Roman emperor. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] i.e. marinated with raw vegetables, wine, spices, + etc. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 329-30. + + +[372] SUCKLING PIG A LA FLACCUS + _PORCELLUM FLACCIANUM_ [1] + +THE PIG IS GARNISHED LIKE WILD BOAR [2] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PLACE IN +THE OVEN. WHILE BEING DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, +CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, GREEN RUE, AND CRUSH IT, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, +WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING A +LITTLE OIL, HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX. THE ROAST PIG, FREE FROM BONES, +SPRINKLE WITH POWDERED CELERY SEED AND SERVE. + + [1] List. named for Flaccus Hordeonius, (_puto_). + Flaccus was a rather common Roman family name. + + [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 371, also {Rx} Nos. 329-30. + Lister is thoroughly puzzled by this procedure, but the + problem is very simple: just treat the pig like wild + boar. + + +[373] SUCKLING PIG, LAUREL FLAVOR + _PORCELLUM LAUREATUM_ + +THE PIG IS BONED AND GARNISHED WITH A LITTLE WINE SAUCE [1] PARBOIL +WITH GREEN LAUREL IN THE CENTER [2] AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO BE +ROASTED SUFFICIENTLY. MEANWHILE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, AND LAUREL BERRIES, CRUSH THEM, +MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [Put this in a +sauce pan and heat] BIND [with roux; untie the pig] REMOVE THE LAUREL +LEAVES; INCORPORATE THE JUICE OF THE BONES [from which a gravy has +been made in the meantime] AND SERVE. + + [1] marinate in the ordinary way with _{oe}nogarum_ as + the dominant flavor. + + [2] It is presumed that the boned pig is rolled and + tied, with the leaves in the center. + + +[374] SUCKLING PIG A LA FRONTO [1] + _PORCELLUM FRONTINIANUM_ + +BONE THE PIG, PARBOIL, GARNISH; IN A SAUCE PAN. ADD BROTH, WINE, BIND. +WHEN HALF DONE, ADD A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL, SOME REDUCED MUST. WHEN +COOKED WIPE THE PIG CLEAN, LET IT DRIP OFF; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, +SERVE. + + [1] List. Probably named for Julius Fronto, _praetor + urbanus_ under Vitellius. Cornelius Fronto was an orator + and author at the time of emperor Hadrian. Cf. {Rx} No. + 246. G.-V. Frontinianus. + + +[375] SUCKLING PIG STEWED IN WINE + _PORCELLUM {OE}NOCOCTUM_ [1] + +SCALD [parboil] THE PIG [and] MARINATE [2] PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN [with] +OIL, BROTH, WINE AND WATER, TIE A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; [cook +(in the oven)] WHEN HALF DONE COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST. IN THE MORTAR +PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT AND +CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD THE PIG'S OWN GRAVY AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE. ADD THIS [to the meat in the sauce pan] AND LET IT +BOIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. THE PIG, PLACED ON A PLATTER, MASK +[with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. _vino elixatus_; G.-V. _{oe}nococtum_. + + [2] It is presumed that the pig is prepared for coction + as in the foregoing, namely cleaned, washed, boned, etc. + This also applies to the succeeding recipes of pig. + + +[376] PIG A LA CELSINUS [1] + _PORCELLUM CELSINIANUM_ + +PREPARE [as above] INJECT [the following dressing made of] PEPPER, +RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, THE PIG'S OWN GRAVY [and] EGGS THROUGH THE EAR +[2] AND OF PEPPER, BROTH AND A LITTLE WINE [make a sauce which is +served] IN THE SAUCE BOAT [3]; AND ENJOY IT. + + [1] Tor. _Caesianus_; Tac. _cesinianum_; G.-V. + _Celsinianum_. Lister goes far out of his way to prove + that the man for whom this dish was named was Celsinus. + He cites a very amusing bit of ancient humor by Petrus + Lambecius, given below. + + [2] Really a dressing in a liquid state when raw, a + custard syringed into the carcass, which congeals during + coction. Eggs must be in proper proportion to the other + liquids. The pig thus filled is either steamed, roasted + or baked, well protected by buttered or oiled paper--all + of which the ancient author failed to state, as a matter + of course. + + [3] _acetabulum._ + + * * * * * + + "The Porker's Last Will and Testament" + by Petrus Lambecius + + (V. Barnab. Brissonium de Formulis lib. VII, p. 677) + [ex Lister, 1705, p. 196; Lister, 1709, p. 236]. + + "I, M. Grunter Corocotta Porker, do hereby make my last + will and testament. Incapable of writing in my own hand, + I have dictated what is to be set down: + + "The Chief Cook sayeth: 'Come here, you--who has upset + this house, you nuissance, you porker! I'll deprive you + of your life this day!' + + "Corocotta Porker sayeth: 'What, perchance, have I done? + In what way, please, have I sinned? Have I with my feet + perhaps smashed your crockery? I beg of you, Mr. Cook, I + entreat you, if such be the case, kindly grant the + supplicant a reprieve.' + + "The Chief Cook sayeth: 'Go over there, boy! Fetch me + from the kitchen that slaughtering-knife. I'm just + itching to give this porker a blood-bath!' + + "Mr. Porker, realizing that this is the season when + cabbage sprouts are abundant, and visualizing himself + potted and peppered, and furthermore seeing that death + is inevitable, asks for time and begs of the cook + whether it was possible to make a will. This granted, he + calls out with a loud voice to his parents to save for + them the food that was to have been his own in the + future, to wit: + + "To my father, Mr. Genuine Bacon-Fat, appointed by me + in my last will I give and bequeath: thirty measures of + acorns; and to my mother, Mrs. Old-Timer Sow, appointed + by me in my last will, I give and bequeath: forty + measures of Spartan wheat; and to my sister, Cry-Baby, + appointed by me in my last will, whose wedding, alas! I + cannot attend, I give and bequeath: thirty measures of + barley; and of my nobler parts and property I give and + bequeath, to the cobbler: my bristles; to the brawlers, + my jaw-bones; to the deaf, my ears; to the shyster + lawyers, my tongue; to the cow-herds, my intestines; to + the sausage makers, my thighs; to the ladies, my + tenderloins; to the boys, my bladder; to the girls, my + little pig's tail; to the dancers, my muscles; to the + runners and hunters, my knuckles; to the hired man, my + hoofs; and to the cook--though not to be named--I give + and bequeath and transmit my belly and appendage which I + have dragged with me from the rotten oak bottoms to the + pig's sty, for him to tie around his neck and to hang + himself with. + + "I wish to erect a monument to myself, inscribed with + golden letters: 'M. Grunter Corocotta Porker lived + nine-hundred-and-ninety-nine years, and had he lived + another half year, a thousand years would have been + nearly completed.' + + "I ask of you who love me best, you who live like me, I + ask you: will not my name remain to be eulogized in all + eternity? if you only will prepare my body properly and + flavor it well with good condiments, nuts, pepper and + honey! + + "My master and my relatives, all of you who have + witnessed this execution of my last will and testament, + you are requested to sign. + + "(Signed) Hard Sausage + Match Maker + Fat Bacon + Bacon Rind + Celsinus + Meat Ball + Sprout Cabbage." + + * * * * * + +Thus far the story by Petrus Lambecius. The fifth of the signatories of +the Porker's Testament is Celsinus; and since the other names are +fictitious it is quite possible that Lambecius had a special purpose in +pointing out the man for whom the dish, Porcellus Celsinianus,--Suckling +Pig a la Celsinus--was named. + +Celsinus was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor. + + +[377] ROAST PIG + _PORCELLUM ASSUM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, HARD YOLKS OF EGG, BROTH, WINE, +OIL, SPICES; BOIL THESE INGREDIENTS, POUR OVER THE [roast] PIG IN THE +SAUCE PAN AND SERVE. + + +[378] PIG A LA JARDINIERE + _PORCELLUM HORTOLANUM_ [1] + +THE PIG IS BONED THROUGH THE THROAT AND FILLED WITH QUENELLES OF +CHICKEN FORCEMEAT, FINELY CUT [roast] THRUSHES, FIG-PECKERS, LITTLE +SAUSAGE CAKES, MADE OF THE PIG'S MEAT, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, STONED DATES, +EDIBLE BULBS [glazed onions] SNAILS TAKEN OUT OF THE SHELL [and +poached] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, CELERY, COOKED SPROUTS, CORIANDER, +WHOLE PEPPER, NUTS, 15 EGGS POURED OVER, BROTH, WHICH IS SPICED WITH +PEPPER, AND DILUTED WITH 3 EGGS; THEREUPON SEW IT TIGHT, STIFFEN, AND +ROAST IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, OPEN THE BACK [of the pig] AND POUR OVER +THE FOLLOWING SAUCE: CRUSHED PEPPER, RUE, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, HONEY +AND A LITTLE OIL, WHICH WHEN BOILING IS TIED WITH ROUX [2]. + + [1] Tor. _Hortulanus_; Gardener's style, the French + equivalent _Jardiniere_, a very common name for all + dishes containing young vegetables. However, in the + above rich formula there is very little to remind us of + the gardener's style, excepting the last part of the + formula, enumerating a number of fresh vegetables. It is + unthinkable for any gourmet to incorporate these with + the rich dressing. The vegetables should be used as a + garnish for the finished roast. This leads us to believe + that the above is really two distinct formulae, or that + the vegetables were intended for garniture. + + [2] This extraordinary and rich dressing, perfectly + feasible and admirable when compared with our own + "Toulouse," "Financiere," "Chipolata," can be palatable + only when each component part is cooked separately + before being put into the pig. The eggs must be whipped + and diluted with broth and poured over the filling to + serve as binder. The pig must be parboiled before + filling, and the final cooking or roasting must be done + very slowly and carefully--procedure not stated by the + original which it takes for granted. + + +[379] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED SUCKLING PIG + _JUS PORRO _[1]_ FRIGIDUM IN PORCELLUM ELIXUM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, CARRAWAY, DILL, LITTLE ORIGANY, PINE NUTS, MOISTEN WITH +VINEGAR, BROTH [2], DATE WINE, HONEY, PREPARED MUSTARD; SPRINKLE WITH +A LITTLE OIL, PEPPER, AND SERVE. + + [1] Tor. only; _porro_ indicating that the sauce may + also be served with the foregoing. Wanting in List. _et + al._ + + [2] Wanting in Tor. + + +[380] SMOKED PIG A LA TRAJANUS + _PORCELLUM TRAIANUM_ [1] + +MAKE THUS: BONE THE PIG, TREAT IT AS FOR STEWING IN WINE [{Rx} No. +375, i.e. marinate for some time in spices, herbs and wine] THEREUPON +HANG IT IN THE SMOKE HOUSE [2] NEXT BOIL IT IN SALT WATER AND SERVE +THUS [3] ON A LARGE PLATTER [4]. + + [1] Tor. and Tac. _traganum_. + + [2] _ad fumum suspendes_; G.-V. _et adpendeas, et + quantum adpendeas, tantum salis in ollam + mittes_--passage wanting in other texts, meaning, + probably, that the more pigs are used for smoking the + more salt must be used for pickling which is a matter of + course, or, the heavier the pig, ... + + [3] Tor. _atque ita in lance efferes_; Tac. & _sic eum + ..._; G.-V. _et siccum in lance inferes_. + + [4] Hum. _salso recente_, with fresh salt pork. Tor. + _cum salsamento istoc recenti_ and Tor. continues + without interruption, indicating, perhaps, that the + following formula is to be served, or treated (boiled) + like the above. + + +[381] MILK-FED PIG + _IN PORCELLO LACTANTE_ [1] + +ONE OUNCE OF PEPPER, A PINT OF WINE, A RATHER LARGE GLASS OF THE BEST +OIL, A GLASS OF BROTH [2], AND RATHER LESS THAN A GLASS OF VINEGAR +[3]. + + [1] G.-V. _lactans_, suckling, milk-fed; other texts: + _lactente_: Dann. wild boar. + + [2] wanting in Tac. and Tor. + + [3] a variant of the foregoing, a mild pickling solution + for extremely young suckling pigs, prior to their + smoking or boiling, or both, which the original does not + state. + + Schuch and his disciple Danneil, have inserted here + seven more pork formulae (Sch. p. 179, {Rx} Nos. 388-394) + taken from the Excerpts of Vinidarius, found at the + conclusion of the Apicius formulae. + + + +VIII + +HARE + _LEPOREM_ + + +[382] BRAISED HARE + _LEPOREM MADIDUM_ + +IS PARBOILED A LITTLE IN WATER, THEREUPON PLACE IT ON A ROASTING PAN +WITH OIL, TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN. AND WHEN PROPERLY DONE, WITH A +CHANGE OF OIL, IMMERSE IT IN THE FOLLOWING GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, +SATURY, ONION, RUE, CELERY SEED; MOISTEN WITH BROTH, LASER, WINE, AND +A LITTLE OIL. WHILE THE ROASTING [of the hare] IS BEING COMPLETED IT +IS SEVERAL TIMES BASTED WITH THE GRAVY. + + Wanting in Goll. + + A difference in the literary style from the foregoing is + quite noticeable. + + +[383] THE SAME, WITH A DIFFERENT DRESSING + _ITEM ALIA AD EUM IMPENSAM_ + +[The hare] MUST BE PROPERLY KEPT [i.e. aged for a few days after +killing]. CRUSH PEPPER, DATES, LASER, RAISINS, REDUCED WINE, BROTH AND +OIL; DEPOSIT [the hare in this preparation to be cooked] WHEN DONE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + Wanting in Goll. Tor. continuing without interruption. + + +[384] STUFFED HARE + _LEPOREM FARSUM_ + +WHOLE [pine] NUTS, ALMONDS, CHOPPED NUTS OR BEECHNUTS, WHOLE PEPPER +ARE MIXED WITH THE [force] MEAT OF HARE THICKENED WITH EGGS AND +WRAPPED IN PIG'S CAUL TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN [1]. ANOTHER FORCEMEAT +IS MADE WITH RUE, PLENTY OF PEPPER, ONION, SATURY, DATES, BROTH, +REDUCED WINE, OR SPICED WINE. THIS IS REDUCED TO THE PROPER +CONSISTENCY AND IS LAID UNDER; BUT THE HARE REMAINS IN THE BROTH +FLAVORED WITH LASER. + + [1] Reminding of the popular meat loaf, made of + remnants: _Falscher Hase_, "Imitation Hare," as it is + known on the Continent. + + The ancients probably used the trimmings of hare and + other meat for this forcemeat, or meat loaf, either to + stuff the hare with, or to make a meal of the + preparation itself, as indicated above. + + We also recall that the ancients had ingenious baking + moulds of metal in the shape of hares and other animals. + These moulds, no doubt, were used for baking or the + serving of preparations of this sort. The absence of + table forks and cutlery as is used today made such + preparations very appropriate and convenient in + leisurely dining. + + +[385] WHITE SAUCE FOR HARE + _IUS ALBUM IN ASSUM LEPOREM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, HARD BOILED YOLKS, PROPERLY +POUNDED, MADE INTO A PASTE. IN A SAUCE PAN BOIL BROTH, WINE, OIL, A +LITTLE VINEGAR AND CHOPPED ONIONS. WHILE BOILING ADD THE PASTE OF +SPICES, STIRRING WITH A FAGOT OF ORIGANY OR SATURY [1] AND WHEN THE +WORK IS DONE, BIND IT WITH ROUX. + + [1] Fagots, or whips made of different herbs and brushes + are often employed by Apicius, a very subtle device to + impart faint flavors to sauces. The custom has been in + use for ages. With the return of mixed drinks in America + it was revived by the use of cinnamon sticks with which + to stir the drinks. + + The above hare formulae are wanting in Goll. + + +[386] LIGHTS OF HARE [1] + _ALITER IN LEPOREM_ [2] + +A FINE HASH OF HARE'S BLOOD, LIVER AND LUNGS. PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN +BROTH AND OIL, AND LET IT BOIL WITH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND +CORIANDER; NOW ADD THE LIVERS AND LUNGS, AND, WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, +CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, RUE, FLEA-BANE, MOISTENED WITH +VINEGAR [3]. + + [1] Wanting in Goll. + + [2] Tor. _Condimentum ex visceribus leporinis_. + + [3] The various texts combine the above and the + following formula; but we are of the opinion that they + are two distinct preparations. + + +[387] LIGHTS OF HARE, ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +TO THE HARE'S LIVER ADD THE BLOOD AND POUND IT WITH HONEY AND SOME OF +THE HARE'S OWN GRAVY; ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE AND PUT IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD +THE LUNGS CHOPPED FINE, MAKE IT BOIL: WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + This and the preceding formula resemble closely our + purees or forcemeats of livers of game and fowl, which + are spread on croutons to accompany the roast. + + +[388] HARE IN ITS OWN BROTH [1] + _ALITER LEPOREM EX SUO IURE_ + +PREPARE THE HARE, BONE IT, GARNISH [2] PUT IT IN A STEW POT [3] AND +WHEN HALF DONE ADD A SMALL BUNCH OF LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL; WHILE THIS +IS BEING DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER +SEED, LASER ROOT, DRY ONION, MINT, RUE, CELERY SEED; CRUSH, MOISTEN +WITH BROTH, ADD HONEY, THE HARE'S OWN GRAVY, REDUCED MUST AND VINEGAR +TO TASTE; LET IT BOIL, TIE WITH ROUX, DRESS, GARNISH THE ROAST ON A +PLATTER, UNDERLAY THE SAUCE, SPRINKLE AND SERVE. + + [1] Cf. Goll. {Rx} No. 381. + + [2] with vegetables for braising, possibly larding. + + [3] _braisiere_, for this is plainly a "potroast" of + hare. The boned carcass should be tied; this is perhaps + meant by or is included in _ornas_--garnish, i.e. + getting ready for braising. + + +[389] HARE A LA PASSENIANUS [1] + _LEPOREM PASSENIANUM_ + +THE HARE IS DRESSED, BONED, THE BODY SPREAD OUT [2] GARNISHED [with +pickling herbs and spices] AND HUNG INTO THE SMOKE STACK [3] WHEN IT +HAS TAKEN ON COLOR, COOK IT HALF DONE, WASH IT, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND +IMMERSE IT IN WINE SAUCE. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND CRUSH: +MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, HEAT; WHEN BOILING, BIND +WITH ROUX. NOW DETACH THE SADDLE OF THE ROAST HARE, SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] This personage, Passenius, or Passenianus, is not + identified. + + [2] To bone the carcass, it usually is opened in the + back, flattened out and all the bones are easily + removed. In that state it is easily pickled and + thoroughly smoked. + + [3] Lan., Tac., and Tor. _suspendes ad furnum_; Hum., + List., and G.-V. _... ad fumum_. We accept the latter + reading, "in the smoke," assuming that _furnum_ is a + typographical error in Lan. and his successors, Tac. and + Tor. Still, roasts have for ages been "hung on chains + close to or above the open fire"; Torinus may not be + wrong, after all, in this essential direction. However, + a boned and flattened-out hare would be better broiled + on the grill than hung up over the open fire. + + +[390] KROMESKIS OF HARE + _LEPOREM ISICIATUM_ + +THE HARE IS COOKED AND FLAVORED IN THE SAME [above] MANNER; SMALL BITS +OF MEAT ARE MIXED WITH SOAKED NUTS; THIS [salpicon] [1] IS WRAPPED IN +CAUL OR PARCHMENT, THE ENDS BEING CLOSED BY MEANS OF SKEWERS [and +fried]. + + [1] We call this preparation a salpicon because it + closely resembles to our modern salpicons--a fine mince + of meats, mushrooms, etc., although the ancient formula + fails to state the binder of this mince--either eggs or + a thickened sauce, or both. + + +[391] STUFFED HARE + _LEPOREM FARSILEM_ + +DRESS THE HARE [as usual] GARNISH [marinate] IT, PLACE IN A SQUARE PAN +[1]. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, +ADD CHICKEN LIVERS [saute] COOKED BRAINS, FINELY CUT MEAT [2] 3 RAW +EGGS, BROTH TO TASTE. WRAP IT IN CAUL OR PARCHMENT, FASTEN WITH +SKEWERS. HALF ROAST ON A SLOW FIRE. [Meanwhile] PUT IN THE MORTAR +PEPPER, LOVAGE: CRUSH AND MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE, SEASON, MAKE IT +HOT, WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE HALF-DONE HARE IMMERSE [finish +its cooking in this broth] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] _Quadratum imponis_, which is plain enough. The hare + is to be roast therein. Dann. Cut in dice; Goll. Spread + it out. Cf. illustration of square roast pan. + + [2] Presumably the trimmings of the hare or of pork. + This forcemeat is supposed to be used for the stuffing + of the hare; it, being boned, is rolled up, the + forcemeat inside, the outside covered with caul or + paper, fastened with skewers. Danneil's interpretation + suggests the thought that the raw hare's meat is cut + into squares which are filled with forcemeat, rolled, + wrapped, and roast--a roulade of hare in the regular + term. + + +[392] BOILED HARE + _ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM_ + +DRESS THE HARE; [boil it]. IN A FLAT SAUCE PAN POUR OIL, BROTH, +VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, SLICED ONION, GREEN RUE AND CHOPPED THYME [a +sauce which is served on the side] AND SO SERVE IT. + + Tor. continuing without interruption. + + +[393] SPICED SAUCE FOR HARE + _LEPORIS CONDITURA_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, THE HARE'S LIVER, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, +RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH RUE WHEN BOILING. + + Tor. _id._ + + +[394] SPRINKLED HARE + _LEPOREM (PIPERE) SICCO SPARSUM_ [1] + +DRESS THE HARE AS FOR KID A LA TARPEIUS [{Rx} No. 363]. BEFORE COOKING +DECORATE IT NICELY [2]. SEASON WITH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONION, LITTLE +THYME, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ROAST IN THE OVEN; AND ALL OVER SPRINKLE +HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, 4 DATES, AND RAISINS. +THE GRAVY IS GIVEN PLENTY OF COLOR OVER THE OPEN FIRE, AND IS SEASONED +WITH WINE, OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, FREQUENTLY STIRRING IT [basting +the hare] SO THAT IT MAY ABSORB ALL THE FLAVOR. AFTER THAT SERVE IT +IN A ROUND DISH WITH DRY PEPPER. + + [1] Tac., Tor. _succo sparsum_. + + [2] We have no proof that the ancients used the larding + needle as we do (or did) in our days. "Decorate" may, + therefore, also mean "garnish," i.e. marinate the meat + in a generous variety of spices, herbs, roots and wine. + It is noteworthy that this term, "garnish," used here + and in the preceding formulae has survived in the + terminology of the kitchen to this day, in that very + sense. + + +[395] SPICED HARE + _ALITER LEPOREM CONDITUM_ + +[The well-prepared hare] COOK IN WINE, BROTH, WATER, WITH A LITTLE +MUSTARD [seed], DILL AND LEEKS WITH THE ROOTS. WHEN ALL IS DONE, +SEASON WITH PEPPER, SATURY, ROUND ONIONS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, WINE, BROTH, +REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; TIE WITH ROUX, LET BOIL A LITTLE LONGER +[baste] SO THAT THE HARE IS PENETRATED BY THE FLAVOR, AND SERVE IT ON +A PLATTER MASKED WITH SAUCE. + + + +IX + +DORMICE + _GLIRES_ + + +[396] STUFFED DORMOUSE [1] + _GLIRES_ + +IS STUFFED WITH A FORCEMEAT OF PORK AND SMALL PIECES OF DORMOUSE MEAT +TRIMMINGS, ALL POUNDED WITH PEPPER, NUTS, LASER, BROTH. PUT THE +DORMOUSE THUS STUFFED IN AN EARTHEN CASSEROLE, ROAST IT IN THE OVEN, +OR BOIL IT IN THE STOCK POT. + + [1] _Glis_, dormouse, a special favorite of the + ancients, has nothing to do with mice. The fat dormouse + of the South of Europe is the size of a rat, arboreal + rodent, living in trees. + + Galen, III, de Alim.; Plinius, VIII, 57/82; Varro, III, + describing the _glirarium_, place where the dormouse was + raised for the table. + + Petronius, Cap. 31, describes another way of preparing + dormouse. Nonnus, Diaeteticon, p. 194/5, says that + Fluvius Hirpinus was the first man to raise dormouse in + the _glirarium_. + + Dormouse, as an article of diet, should not astonish + Americans who relish squirrel, opossum, muskrat, "coon," + etc. + + +END OF BOOK VIII + +_EXPLICIT APICII TETRAPUS LIBER OCTAUUS_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE + +Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535} + +{Transcription: + + SCHOLA APITIANA, EX OPTIMIS QVIBVSDAM authoribus diligenter ac nouiter + constructa, authore Polyonimo Syngrapheo. + + + ACGESSERE DIALOGI aliquot D. Erasmi Roterodami, & alia quaedam lectu + iucundissima. + + Vaeneunt Antuerpiae in aedibus Ioannis Steelsij. + + I. G. 1535.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book IX + + + + +{Illustration: WINE PITCHER, ELABORATELY DECORATED + +"Egg and bead" pattern on the rim. The upper end of handle takes the +form of a goddess--Scylla, or Diana with two hounds--ending in +acanthus leaves below the waist. On the curved back of handle is a +long leaf; the lower attachment is in the form of a mask, ivy-crowned +maenad (?). Ntl. Mus., Naples, 69171; Field M., 24048.} + + + + +{Illustration: CACCABUS + +Stewpot, marmite, without a base, to fit into a hole of stove. The +flat lid fits into the mouth of the pot. Found in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., +Naples, 74806; Field M., 24171.} + + + + +BOOK IX. SEAFOOD + +_Lib. IX. Thalassa_ + + + CHAP. I. SHELLFISH. + CHAP. II. RAY. + CHAP. III. CALAMARY. + CHAP. IV. CUTTLEFISH. + CHAP. V. POLYPUS. + CHAP. VI. OYSTERS. + CHAP. VII. ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES. + CHAP. VIII. SEA URCHIN. + CHAP. IX. MUSSELS. + CHAP. X. SARDINES. + CHAP. XI. FISH SAUCES. + CHAP. XII. BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW. + + + +I + +SHELLFISH + _IN LOCUSTA_ + + +[397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH + _IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI_ [1] + +CHOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, +CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE +BOILING ADD MUSTARD. + + [1] _locusta_, spiny lobster; Fr. _langouste_; G.-V. + _capparus_; not clear, (_cammarus_, a crab); List. + _carabus_--long-tailed lobster or crab, the _cancer + cursor_ of Linnaeus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by + Plinius. + + +[398] BROILED LOBSTER + _LOCUSTAS ASSAS_ + +MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN THEIR SHELL; [which is +opened by splitting the live lobster in two] SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE +AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL. +WHEN THEY ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE [with oil or +butter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2]. + + [1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed. + + [2] Same procedure as today. + + +[399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH CUMIN SAUCE [1] + _LOCUSTAM ELIXAM CUM CUMINATO_ + +REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH CUMIN SAUCE [essence] AND, BY +RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A +LITTLE MORE WHOLE CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD +SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3]. + + [1] Cumin, mustard and other spices similar to the above + are used for cooking crawfish today. + + [2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts. + + [3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree; + according to Plinius the _laurus cassia_--wild cinnamon. + + +[400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH--MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT + _ALITER LOCUSTAM--ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES_ + +HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] BOIL [the +lobster] TAKE THE CLUSTER OF SPAWN [from under the female's tail, and +the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE +TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and +fry]. + + It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the + mince. + + +[401] BOILED LOBSTER + _IN LOCUSTA ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. + + +[402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION + _ALITER IN LOCUSTA_ + +FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, MINT, +RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND WINE. + + [1] Tor. _recte adhibemus_, sentence not in the other + texts. + + + +II + +RAY, SKATE + _IN TORPEDINE_ [1] + + +[403] [A Sauce for] RAY + _IN TORPEDINE_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A +LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND +WITH ROUX. + + [1] _torpedo_; the _raia torpedo_ of Linnaeus; a ray or + skate. + + +[404] BOILED RAY + _IN TORPEDINE ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, BROTH, +RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR, +IF DESIRED RICHER, ADD RAISINS. + + This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled + ray. + + Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and + with similar ingredients. When done, the fish is allowed + to cool in this water; the edible parts are then + removed, the water drained from the meat, which is + tossed in sizzling brown butter with lemon juice, + vinegar and capers. This is _raie au beurre noir_, much + esteemed on the French seaboards. + + + +III + +CALAMARY + _IN LOLIGINE_ [1] + + +[405] CALAMARY IN THE PAN + _IN LOLIGINE IN PATINA_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL TO +TASTE. WHEN COMMENCING TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX. + + [1] Calamary, ink-fish, cuttlefish. Cf. Chap. IV. G.-V. + _Lolligine_. + + +[405a] STUFFED CALAMARY [1] + _IN LOLIGINE FARSILI_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CELERY SEED, YOLKS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +WINE, OIL, AND BIND [2]. + + [1] Ex List., Sch., and G.-V. Evidently a sauce or + dressing. The formula for the forcemeat of the fish is + not given here but is found in {Rx} No. 406--stuffed + Sepia, a fish akin to the calamary. + + + +IV + +SEPIA, CUTTLEFISH + _IN SEPIIS_ + + +[406] STUFFED SEPIA + _IN SEPIA FARSILI_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, BASIC +CONDIMENTS [1] HEAT [in water] THROW IN THE CUTTLEFISH; [when done] +SPLIT, THEN STUFF THE CUTTLEFISH [2] WITH [the following forcemeat] +BOILED BRAINS, THE STRINGS AND SKIN REMOVED, POUND WITH PEPPER, MIX IN +RAW EGGS UNTIL IT IS PLENTY. WHOLE PEPPER [to be added]. TIE [the +filled dish] INTO LITTLE BUNDLES [of linen] AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING +STOCK POT UNTIL THE FORCEMEAT IS PROPERLY COOKED. + + [1] _Condimenta coctiva_--salt, herbs, roots. + + [2] G.-V. treat this as a separate formula. + + +[407] BOILED CUTTLEFISH [1] + _SEPIAS ELIXAS AB AHENO_ [2] + +ARE PLACED IN A COPPER KETTLE WITH COLD [WATER] AND PEPPER, LASER, +BROTH, NUTS, EGGS, AND [any other] SEASONING YOU MAY WISH. + + [1] List. connects this article with the foregoing. + + [2] Tor. _aheno_ for copper kettle; List. _amylo_. + + +[408] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK CUTTLEFISH + _ALITER SEPIAS_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, DRY MINT, YOLKS, HONEY, BROTH, +WINE, VINEGAR, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. + + + +V + +POLYPUS [1] + _IN POLYPO_ + + +[409] POLYPUS + _IN POLYPO_ + +[cook with] PEPPER, LOVAGE, BROTH, LASER, GINGER [2] AND SERVE. + + [1] The polypus, or eight-armed sepia, has been + described by Plinius, Galen, Cicero, Diocles, Athenaeus + and other ancient writers. The ancients praise it as a + food and attribute to the polypus the power of restoring + lost vitality: _molli carne pisces, & suaves gustu sunt, + & ad venerem conferunt_--Diocles. + + Wanting in the Vat. Ms. + + [2] Wanting in List. and G.-V. Ex Tor. p. 100. + + + +VI + +OYSTERS + _IN OSTREIS_ + + +[410] OYSTERS [1] + _IN OSTREIS_ + +TO OYSTERS WHICH WANT TO BE WELL SEASONED ADD [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +YOLKS, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; IF YOU WISH ALSO ADD HONEY [3]. + + [1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in the other texts. + + [3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters. It is not + likely that the oysters brought from Great Britain to + Rome were in a condition to be enjoyed from the + shell--raw. + + The above formula appears to be a sort of oyster stew. + + + +VII + + +[411] ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES + _IN OMNE GENUS CONCHYLIORUM_ [1] + +FOR ALL KINDS OF SHELLFISH USE PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A +LITTLE MORE OF CUMIN, HONEY, AND BROTH; IF YOU WISH, ADD [bay] LEAVES +AND MALOBATHRON [2]. + + [1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms. + + [2] Cf. note to {Rx} No. 399. + + The shellfish is cooked or steamed with the above + ingredients. + + + +VIII + +SEA URCHINS + _IN ECHINO_ + + +[412] SEA URCHIN + _IN ECHINO_ + +TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A LITTLE OIL, BROTH, +SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE +URCHINS IN SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN DONE +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea + urchin are edible. + + +[413] ANOTHER METHOD + _ALITER [IN] ECHINO_ + +PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, INDIAN SPIKENARD, +AND [bay or nard] LEAVES. + + +[414] PLAIN BOILED + _ALITER_ + +PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE +ON A PLATTER. + + +[415] IN CHAFING DISH + _IN THERMOSPODIO_ [1] + +[To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay] +LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH EGGS IN THE HOT +WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the + original. + + [2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood a + la Newburgh. The thermospodium is an elaborate food and + drink heater, used both in the kitchen and in the dining + room. Our drawing illustrates an elaborate specimen + which was used to prepare dishes such as this one in + front of the guests. + + +[416] SALT SEA URCHIN + _IN ECHINO SALSO_ + +[The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH THE BEST [fish] +BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO TASTE. + + Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today. + The sea urchins were cooked at the fisheries, picked, + shells, refuse discarded, the meat salted and marketed. + The fish was also salted in the shell as seen in the + following: + + +[417] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND TREAT THEM IN A MANNER +AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER. + + + +IX + +MUSSELS + _IN MITULIS_ [1] + + +[418] MUSSELS + _IN MITULIS_ + +BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD +WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS. + + [1] Variously spelled _mytilus_, _mitylus_, _mutulus_, + an edible mussel. + + Tor. and List. _merula_, merling, whiting, Fr. _merlan_. + _Merula_ also is a blackbird, which is out of place here. + The Vat. Ms. reads _in metulis_. + + [2] Tor. + + [3] Tor. _vinum mustum_; List. _v. mixtum_. + + + +X + +SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET + _IN SARDA _[1]_ CORDULA _[2]_ MUGILE_ [3] + + +[419] STUFFED SARDINE + _SARDAM FARSILEM_ + +PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: THE SARDINE IS BONED AND +FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS, +DILUTED WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT AND PLACED IN +A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL, +REDUCED MUST AND ORIGANY [4]. + + [1] The freshly caught sardine. + + [2] _Cordyla_, _cordilla_, the young or the fry of + tunny. + + [3] _Mugil_, sea-mullet. + + [4] Tor. origany; List. _alece_, with brine. + + +[420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES + _SARDA ITA FIT_ + +COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, +ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH, +GARNISH WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, REDUCED +MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL. + + +[421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES + _IUS IN SARDA_ + +PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, AND OIL. + + Resembling our _vinaigrette_. + + +[422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1] + _IUS ALIUD IN SARDA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION [chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR, +DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS. + + [1] Another _Vinaigrette_. + + [2] Tac. and Tor. _mentam aridam coctam_, dry mint + cooked, which is reasonable, to soften it. Hum., G.-V. + dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity to cook + the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw + in this dressing. The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor. + + +[423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY + _IUS IN CORDULA ASSA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or its wine] HONEY, +VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES. + + +[424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET + _IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL. + + [1] Tor. _calva_; G.-V. _calvam_. Does not exist. Hum. + _calva legendum puto salvia_. + + +[425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET + _ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_ + +PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, OIL, +VINEGAR AND MUSTARD. + + [1] Same as above. + + + +XI [1] + + +[426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY + _IUS IN SILURO _[2]_ IN PELAMYDE _[3]_ ET IN THYNNO_ [4] + +TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONIONS, MINT, +RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL. + + [1] The twelve chapters of Book IX, as shown in the + beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by + G.-V., to wit, XII, _IUS IN MULLO TARICHO_ and XIII, + _SALSUM SINE SALSO_, but these are more properly + included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of + the above fish were salt, and probably were important + commercial articles. The _silurus_, for instance, is + best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red + mullet, as seen in {Rx} No. 427 came from the sea of + Galilee. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149. + + [2] _Silurus_, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, + in the U. S. called horn-pout--a large catfish. + + [3] _Pelamis_, a tunny before it is a year old. + + [4] Tunny, Tunafish. + + [5] Tor. wanting in the others. + + [6] Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 424. + + + +XII + + +[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET + _IUS IN MULLO _[1]_ TARICHO_ [2] + +IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND +MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, +AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT +[4]. + + [1] Tor. _mulo_, the red sur-mullet--a very esteemed + fish. + + [2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee. + Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as + _Tarichus_. This became finally a generic name for all + kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from + elsewhere. We have an interesting analogy in "Finnan + Haddie," smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted + into "Finnan," and now used for any kind of smoked + Haddock. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149. + + [3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of + condiments for salt fish. + + [4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the + next formula, implying that more salt be added to the + salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be + added which of course, is correct. + + + +XIII + +ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?] + _ALITER, SINE SALSO_ [1] + + +[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING + _SALSUM, SINE SALSO_ [2] + +COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH +OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, +IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking] +SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7]. + + [1] Tor. + + [2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning + may be, "Salt Fish, without salt pork" as salt fish is + frequently served with bacon. + + [3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A + paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made. + + [4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the + liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of + hare, etc., predominated. + + [5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor. + + [6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, + artistically finished, same as we possess them today; + such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf. + {Rx} No. 384. + + [7] This is an attempt to make a "fish" of livers, not + so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the + livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and + a most ingenious device, requiring much skill. + + This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from + being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is + economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the + utilization of good things which are often discarded as + worthless. + + +[429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE! + _ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI_ [1] + +CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE RAISIN WINE, OR +REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL, +INCORPORATE WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE. + + [1] G.-V. _Alter vice salsi_. + + [2] Tor. _& salibus imbue_; List. _& salsa redde_. There + is no sense to Lister's version, nor can we accept G.-V. + who have _et salari defundes_. + + +[430] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER SALSUM IN _[1]_ SALSO_ + +TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT +QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH +AND MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A SOUR STOMACH +AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2]. + + [1] Tor., G.-V. _sine_. + + [2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork; + but the formula obviously is of a medicinal character + and has no place here. + + + +XII [XIV] + + +[431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW + _EMBRACTUM _[1]_ BAIANUM_ [2] + +MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND SEA NETTLES +PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER, +CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL. + + [1] List. _emphractum_--a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews + of this sort are very popular in the South of Europe, + the most famous among them being the _Bouillabaisse_ of + Marseilles. + + [2] Baiae, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients + located in the bay of Naples. The stew was named after + the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca warned + against it. + + [3] Tor. _spondylos_; List. _sphondylos_--scallops. + Both terms, if used in connection with the shellfish are + correct. Lister in several places confuses this term + with _spongiolus_--mushroom. This instance is the final + vindication of Torinus, whose correctness was maintained + in {Rx} Nos. 41, 47, 115, _seq._; 120, 121, 183, 309, + _seq._ + + +END OF BOOK IX [1] + +_EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS_ [2] + + + [1] It appears to us that Book IX and the following, + Book X, judging from its recipes, phraseology and from + other appearances is by a different author than the + preceding books. (Long after having made this + observation, we learn from Vollmer, Studien, that Books + IX and X were missing in the Archetypus Fuldensis.) + + [2]. Tac. + + + + +{Illustration: ROAST PLATTER + +The indenture is corrugated to receive the juices of the roast. +Hildesheim Treas.} + + + + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, TORINUS EDITION, BASEL, 1541 + +Inscribed with comments by Lappius, contemporary scholar. The fly-leaf +bears the autograph of M. Tydeman, 1806, and references to the above +Lappius. There are further inscriptions by ancient hands in Latin and +French, referring to the Barnhold [_sic_] Apicius, to The Diaitetike, +to Aulus Cornelius, Celsus, Hippocrates and Galen. Also complaints +about the difficulties to decipher the Apician text.} + +{Transcription: + + CAELII APITII + SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDICINAE + artificis DE RE CVLINARIA Libri x. recens + e tenebris eruti, & a mendis uindicati, + typisque summa diligentia + excusi. + + PRAETEREA, + + P. PLATINAE CREMONENSIS + VIRI VNDECVNQVE DOCTISSIMI, + De tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinae + scientia Libri x. ad imitationem C. APITII + ad unguem facti. + + AD HAEC, + + PAVLI AEGINETAE DE + FACVLTATIBVS ALIMENTORVM TRACTATVS, + ALBANO TORINO + INTERPRETE. + + _Cum INDICE copiosissimo._ + + BASILEAE. + _________ + M. D. XLI.} + + + + +APICIUS + +Book X + + + + +{Illustration: SHALLOW SAUCE PAN + +The plain bowl is molded, the fluted handle ends in a head of the +young Hercules in a lion's skin, with the paws tied under the neck. +This corresponds somewhat to our modern chafing dish pan both in size +and in utility. This pan was used in connection with the plain +thermospodium for the service of hot foods in the dining room. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 73438; Field M., 24032.} + + + + +{Illustration: CACCABUS + +Stewpot, kettle, marmite. The cover fits over the mouth. The rings in +which the bail plays are attached by rivets to a sort of collar +encircling the neck of the pot. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74775; Field M., +24173.} + + + + +BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1] + +_Lib. X. Halieus_ + + + CHAP. I. DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. + CHAP. II. MURENAS. + CHAP. III. EEL. + + The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts. + + + +I + + +[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH + _IUS DIABOTANON _[2]_ PRO _[3]_ PISCE FRIXO_ + +USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] +AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, +AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, +REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN +SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces. + Apparently it is by a different author than Books + I-VIII, which have many formulae for fish. While we have + no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X + is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a + monograph, of which there existed many, according to + Athenaeus, which specialized on the various departments + of cookery. + + [2] Tor. _Diabotom_ (in Greek characters); Greek, + relating to herbs. + + [3] Tor. G.-V. _in_. + + [4] G.-V. _salsas_. + + +[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH + _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU +WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS. + + +[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH + _ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO_ [1] + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED +YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH. + + [1] Tor. _frixo_--fried fish, although his heading reads + _elixo_. + + +[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH + _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ + +PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED, +CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT +AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE +[the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE. + + [1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in + principle the North American Indian method of cooking + whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water + made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no + "pressure cooker" is available. + + This formula cannot be classified under "Sauce for + Boiled Fish." + + +[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH + _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ + +WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER +SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND +SERVE [1]. + + [1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the + one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on + the other hand, of words such as the initial and the + closing words, which characterizes so many of the + formulae. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary + authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training, + assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the + methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have + said: "Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned + with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with + vinegar before serving." He mentioned neither the salt + nor the oil which he undoubtedly used. + + +[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH + _IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ + +PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, +STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH +VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT. + + [1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river + Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity + excepting Carthage during Apicius' time a rival of Rome + and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a + Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was + (and still is) good. + + [2] G.-V. _mulsum_, mead. + + +[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH + _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, +BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER. + + +[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH + _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, +RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK. + + +[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER + _IUS IN CONGRO ASSO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE, +MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK. + + G.-V. _Gongo_. + + +[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1] + _IUS IN CORNUTAM_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2] + + [1] _Cornuta_, _cornutus_--"horned," "having horns"--an + unidentified sea fish. + + [2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulae for sauces + into one. + + +[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET + _IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; +HEAT AND POUR OVER [1]. + + [1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet, + while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulae. + + +[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET + _ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_ + +RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,--ALL OF THEM GREEN--PEPPER, LOVAGE, +HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. + + +[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY + _IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], +RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK. + + [1] Wanting in Tor. + + +[445] + +THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY. + + +[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH + _IUS IN PERCAM_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, +MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT. + + [1] _Perca_, perch--sea perch or sea bass. + + +[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER + _CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, +RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX. + + [1] _Rubellio_--a "reddish" fish; perhaps a species of + the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins + called the fish _rubelliones_, _rubellos_ and _rubros_; + the Greeks _erythrinos_ or _erythricos_, because of + their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenaeus + similar to the _pager_ or _pagrus_, _phager_ or + _phagrus_, also called _pagur_, which is not quite + identified. + + + +II + + +[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA + _IUS IN MURENA [ASSA]_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, +WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3]. + + [1] V. doubting that this is broiled. + + [2] Tor. _Crocomagma_; List. _crocum magnum_, still used + today in some fish preparations, particularly in the + Bouillabaisse. + + [3] The laconic style in which all these fish + preparations are given, is very confusing to the + uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients + were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or, + to make a _court-bouillon_, a fish-essence of the bones + and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the + sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in + the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks, + and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions + from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish + was broiled or fried. + + +[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA + _IUS IN MURENA ASSA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, +REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT. + + +[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA + _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT. + + [1] _Nepeta montana_--nep. + + +[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1] + _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, +RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH +ROUX. + + [1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V. + + [2] Tac.; wanting in Tor. + + +[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA + _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES, +MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE. + + [1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. + _rhus Syriacum_--Syrian Sumach. + + The originals are considerably confused on the above and + the following formulae. + + +[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA + _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2]. + + [1] See note to {Rx} No. 452. + + [2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction + of {Rx} No. 452, as this is wanting in the other + editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula. + + In Tac. the above formula follows the next. + + +[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH + _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL +SAUCE BOAT [1]. + + [1] _in lance_; _lanx_ may also mean a large oblong + platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration + Oval Dish with Handles. + + Horace II Sat. 8--_in patina porrecta_--a special dish + to hold the cooked _murena_ and to display it to + advantage. + + Such special dishes are found in any good table service, + to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks + and knives were used for fish service which have been + gradually discarded. + + +[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH + _IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS_ [1] + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A +LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2]. + + [1] _Lacertus_, an unidentified sea fish. + + [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448. + + In G.-V. this formula precedes the above. + + +[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH + _IUS IN PISCE ASSO_ + +A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, +GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT +AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX. + + [1] Tor. wanting in others. + + +[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY + _IUS IN THYNNO_ + +TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, +CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND +OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2]. + + [1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting + in others. + + +[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY + _IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig +wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2]. + + [1] _Condimenta mortaria_--herbs crushed in the + "mortar"; also pulverized spices. + + [2] "and tie" wanting in List. Leave it out, and you + have an acceptable _vinaigrette_--a cold sauce for cold + fish. + + +[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH + _IUS IN DENTICE ASSO_ [1] + +SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; +HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. + + [1] _Dentex_; Hum. _dentex forma auratae similis, verum + major_--the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape, + though larger. + + [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [3] _Malum Cydonicum._ + + +[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH + _IN DENTICE ELIXO_ [1] + +PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. + + [1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor. + + +[461] SAUCE FOR DORY + _IUS IN PISCE AURATA_ [1] + +A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, +ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, +VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO. + + [1] _Aurata_--the "golden" dory. Very esteemed fish. + Martial, III, Ep. 90: + + _Non omnis laudem preliumque aurate meretur: + Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus_ + + [2] Tor. wanting in other texts. + + +[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY. + _IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA_ + +A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1] +PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, +VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. + + +[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1] + _IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO_ + +PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE. + + [1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above + ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell + and is eaten with _vinaigrette_ sauce. + + +[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH + _IN PISCE {OE}NOGARUM_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE; +HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE. + + +[465] ANOTHER WAY + _ALITER_ + +THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX. + + + +III + +EEL + + +[466] SAUCE FOR EEL + _IUS IN ANGUILLAM_ + +EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER, +CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST. + + [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. + + [2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually + it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this + peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats + "pepper" and "lovage" as one spice, whereas we have kept + the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of + pepper--_piper Ligusticum_. _Piper_, as a matter of + fact, stands for pepper, and _Ligusticum_ is the herb, + Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called + _Levisticum_. The fact that the two words are here + separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the + dark about this matter almost to the end. + + One wonders why he did not change or correct this error + in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that + his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished + copy therefor--namely in installments. Since the + printer's type was limited, each sheet was printed in + the complete edition, and the type was then used over + again for the next sheet. + + [3] Tor. _thun_. + + [4] Wanting in Tor. + + +[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL + _ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM_ + +PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS, +MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT. + + +END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS + +_CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT_ [Tac.] + + + + +{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP + +With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a +theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers +and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical +instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.} + + + + +{Illustration: OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503 + +From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. +Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor +variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were +painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center +of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a +remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the +printing of books became commercialized.} + +{Transcription: + + Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile + Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria + + ¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis. + + Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum. + + Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv. + in aeneum uas mittuntur in praemissis inde sextariis + duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques. + quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum + comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere + c{oe}perit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni + in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio + fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum + piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci + dragmae singulae. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis + uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac + numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes + uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia. + + ¶ Conditum meliromum. + + Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur + per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam + mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum + tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil + uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem. + + ¶ Absynthium romanum. + + Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini praeceptis + utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi + ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis. + masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini + eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.} + + + + +THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS + + + + +{Illustration: BREVIS PIMENTORUM + +Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts +from Apicius by Vinidarius.} + +{Transcription: + + BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUAE IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT + UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT; + + crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murrae, + costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum, + spica nardi. De seminibus hoc. + dapaber, semen rudae, baca rutae, baca lauri, semen + aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici, + semen erucae, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum, + petro silenum, careum, sisama + + Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut + + De siccis hoc + lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum, + oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi, + coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia, + radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum + alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum. + + De liquoribus hoc. + mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum. + + De nucleis hoc. + nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana. + + De pomis siccis hoc. + damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. haec + omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem + perdant. Brevis cyborum. + caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas + garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas. + vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones} + + + + +{Illustration: CACCABUS + +Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the +mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.} + + + + + THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS + BY VINIDARIUS + THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN + +_Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri_ + +FIFTH CENTURY + + +Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. +Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is +known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made +certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial +codex of Salmasius, saec. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318. + +Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his +predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these +recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as +he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes +should form an integral part of any Apicius edition. + +M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. +Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: "These excerpts have nothing to do +with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each +other ..." and other researchers have expressed the same opinion. +Vollmer, however, does not share this view. + +If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the +excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill +certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly +vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of +Vinidarius. + +The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the +close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was +the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living +in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius. + + +SUMMARY OF SPICES + _BREVIS PIMENTORUM_ [1] + +WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING +WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, +LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], +INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD. + + [1] _Pigmentorum_--_specierum_--spices. The old + _pigmentum_ is really any coloring matter; the word, + corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet + red pepper and also for allspice. + + [2] _Cariofilu_--_caerefolium_--_Chaerephyllon_; Fr. + _Cerfeuille_; Ger. _Kerbel_. This should be among the + herbs. + + [3] Not identified. + + +OF SEEDS [to be on hand] + _DE SEMINIBUS HOC_ + +POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY +SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, +DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM. + + +OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand] + _DE SICCIS HOC_ + +LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, +BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, +ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, +GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM. + + [1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though + the word _bacas_ would be out of place there. + + [2] _Ospera_, i.e., _Osperios_. + + [3] _Samsucu_, i.e., _sampsuchum_ Elderberries? + + [4] Not identified; perhaps _laurus innubus_, dried + virgin laurel leaves. + + +OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand] + _DE LIQUORIBUS HOC_ + +HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE. + + [1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some + other honey preparation, maybe, _piperatum_, pepper + sauce. + + +OF NUTS [to be on hand] + _DE NUCLEIS HOC_ + +LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2]. + + [1] _Acmidula_, i.e., _amygdala_. + + [2] _Aballana_--_abellana_--_abellinae_--_avellana_; Fr. + _avelline_. + + +OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand] + _DE POMIS SICCIS HOC_ + +DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES. + +ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER +FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES. + + +SUMMARY OF DISHES [1] + _BREUIS CYBORV_ [1] + + I. CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN + _CACCABINA MINORE_ + II. STUFFED CHARTREUSE + _CACCABINA FUSILE_ + III. BRAISED CUTLETS + _OFELLAS GARATAS_ + IV. ROAST MEAT BALLS + _OFELLAS ASSAS_ + V. GLAZED CUTLETS + _ALITER OFELLAS_ + VI. MEAT BALLS WITH LASER + _OFELLAS GRATON_ + VII. SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS + _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS_ + VIII. ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED + _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_ + IX. FRIED FISH + _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_ + X. ROAST [Grilled] FISH + _PISCES ASSOS_ + XI. FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE + _PISCES INOTOGONON_ + XII. SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING + _SARDAS_ + XIII. FISH STEWED IN WINE + _ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON_ + XIV. STEWED MULLET WITH DILL + _MULLOS ANETATOS_ + XV. MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE + _ALITER MULLOS_ + XVI. MURENA AND EEL + _MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS_ + XVII. SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL + _LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS_ + XVIII. BOILED FISH + _PISCES ELIXOS_ + XIX. A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS + _PATINAS OBORUM_ + XX. SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE + _PORCELLO CORIANDRATU_ + XXI. SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE + _PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU_ + XXII. PORK, PAN GRAVY + _PORCELLO EO IURE_ + XXIII. PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME + _PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU_ + XXIV. PICKLED PORK + _PORCELLU EXOZOME_ + XXV. LASER [sauce for] PORK + _PORCELLU LASARATU_ + XXVI. SAUCE FOR PORK + _PORCELLU IUSCELLU_ + XXVII. PLAIN LAMB + _AGNU SIMPLICE_ + XXVIII. KID AND LASER + _HEDU LASARATU_ + XXIX. THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE + _TURDOS APONTOMENUS_ + XXX. TURTLEDOVES + _TURTURES_ + XXXI. SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE + _IUS IN PERDICES_ + + [1] _Brevis cyboru_ could be nicely and appropriately + rendered with "Menu,"--something minute, short,--but + this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an + enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes + contained in the excerpts. + + There is considerable variation in the spelling of the + names here and in the following. Syllables ending with + "u" are invariably abbreviations of "um." + + + +I + + +[468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN + _CACCABINAM MINOREM_ + +ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A CASSEROLE WITH +[cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, +SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN +WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the +casserole, eliminating the juice] [2]. + + [1] The dish resembles a chartreuse. + + [2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the + egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded. + + + +Ia + + +[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_ + _ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_ + +CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND +A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, +CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES, +BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE, +POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1]. + + [1] Either the vegetables and chicken of {Rx} No. 468 + are combined with this dressing or a puree of the above + cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral + dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room + for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we + have here a formula for a vegetable puree or a pudding, + a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the + fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse," + then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the + monastery by that name, the Carthusians. + + + +II + + +[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE + _CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_ + +[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots +or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS +OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT +MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould +or in a casserole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, +1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL +MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT +MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] +EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the +layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil] +AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully +unmould the dish on a service platter] [2]. + + [1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, + _salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In + these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to + the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a + pot." Such changes are very often observed in the + terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language. + They make the definition of terms and the classification + of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the + confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places + and create misunderstandings that only an expert can + explain. + + [2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative + scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and + meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the + various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one + would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a + design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is + served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in + unmoulding it without damaging the structure. + + + +III + + +[471] BRAISED CUTLETS + _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1] + +PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE +QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3]. + + [1] Derived from _garum_ or _{oe}nogarum_, the wine + sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets + prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in + the formula. This also illustrates the interesting + etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day + ancient language because it is a typical technical term, + the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find, + therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no + longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_, + but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain + kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with + _lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place. + + [2] In this instance, and in several others, and also + according to Sueton. Caes. fluids were weighed. What idea + could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than + this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence + have thus far made futile all efforts towards more + progressive methods in handling food stuffs, + particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them + by their weight. Present market methods are very + chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of + the buyer. + + [3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is + equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here + has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying" + process is clearly out of question here. It appears that + the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _asso_ in the + next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter + of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a + clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling, + roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to + various interpretations. + + + +IV + + +[472] ROAST MEAT BALLS + _OFELLAS ASSAS_ + +MEATBALLS [previously saute], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW +STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE +SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. + + + +V + + +[473] GLAZED CUTLETS + _ALITER OFELLAS_ + +THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT +HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED. + + [1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III. + + [2] _unguantur._ + + [3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite + common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle + meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to + melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust. + + + +VI + + +[474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER + _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1] + +LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX +WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2]. + + [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III. + + [2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading + of the sentence, _misces cum his omnibus tritis_, etc. + + + +VII + + +[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS + _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1] + +COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED +TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY +HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET +THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, +HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD +SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A +DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE. + + [1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped." + + + +VIII + + +[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS: + _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES, +MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS +PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN +THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + + +IX + + +[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS: + _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH +HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK +THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE. + + [1] Sch. _ligisticum_. + + [2] Wanting in Sch. + + + +X + + +[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1] + _PISCES ASSOS_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD +FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED +MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it]. + + [1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_ + (see our illustration). + + The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly + handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned + mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of + manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or + broiled fish. + + + +XI + + +[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE + _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1] + +FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD +OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE. + + [1] Ihm and G.-V. _{oe}noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in + the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_. + Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of + spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared + with wine, although wine is absent in the present + formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the + same name. + + Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation + "oil broth." + + + +XII + + +[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS: + _SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, +VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID. + + [1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used + to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A + "sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the + inhabitant of Sardinia. + + [2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the + manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is + regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or + uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern + mayonnaise. + + + +XIII + + +[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE + _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1] + +RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size] +ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND +[fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE +WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with +the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the +fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, +casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A +BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY +[Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] Cf. note to XI. This _{oe}noteganon_ resembles the + _Bouillabaisse_, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In + addition to the above manner it is flavored with + saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the + judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of + garlic and small sippets of toasted bread. + + + +XIV + + +[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS: + _MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_ + +PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A +SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] +CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER +IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON +THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. + + [1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula. + Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original + fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture + is not justified. + + + +XV + + +[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE + _ALITER MULLOS_ + +SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE +AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE +FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE +FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT +IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD +IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. + + [1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and + in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought + metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _cumana_, + an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used + for service at the table. + + It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has + a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices + of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and + economical. + + + +XVI + + +[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS: + _MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES_ + +CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL +GLASS OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE THIRD PART, AND +A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY +THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE +SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING. + + [1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest + of fish; the best were brought from the straits of + Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds, + often large and elaborate marble basins called, + _piscina_, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use. + Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave + on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into + the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such + murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on + record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated. + + [2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann. + Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook + in one of his comedies "Congrio," because the fellow was + "slippery." + + + +XVII + + +[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL) + _LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM)_ [1] + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF +[hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled +shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE. + + [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes. + + [2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulae. No + indication as to how to use the ingredients named. + According to our notion of eating, there is only one + way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed + to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells; + the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of + a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary + oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over + the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or + "cocktail" as we have today. + + + +XVIII + + +[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH + _IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS_ + +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; +ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH. + + [1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or + date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not + so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room + for any doubt. + + + +XIX + + +[487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS + _PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS_ + +SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD +BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON +FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH +LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT THEM AND MIX WITH +THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW +FIRE ALLOW TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT +CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1]. + + [1] Very similar to _Sole au vin blanc_. Cf. {Rx} No. + 155. + + + +XX + + +[488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE + _PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM_ + +ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER, +DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL, +VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER [the roast] +SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS OVER AND SO SERVE. + + + +XXI + + +[489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE + _PORCELLUM AENOCOCTUM_ [1] + +TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT +WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL +BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX +AND PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE [2] PLATTER +AND SERVE. + + [1] i.e. _{oe}nococtum_, cooked or prepared in wine + sauce. + + [2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a + copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it + _in patinam aheneam_. + + + +XXII + + +[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY + _PORCELLUM EO IURE_ + +ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY +WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE. + + + +XXIII + + +[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME + _PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM_ + +MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL; +TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO +PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the +following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD +BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING +[over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to +drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF +RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1]. + + [1] We would first mix the liquid components of this + dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread + the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no + doubt, had this very process in mind. + + + +XXIV + + +[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG + _PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1] + +GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A +LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS +MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY +CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all +this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisiere] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT +COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO +THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD +ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO +PERFECTION AND SERVE IT. + + [1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes, + _exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the + various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is + supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of + some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In + fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet + preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the + necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice, + wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle." + + [2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version. + + [3] _saepius_; Dann. confusing _saepe_ with _caepa_, + renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in + XXVII. + + + +XXV + + +[493] PIG WITH LASER + _PORCELLUM LASARATUM_ + +IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE +LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND +POUR OVER [the roast pig]. + + + +XXVI + + +[494] PIG IN SAUCE + _PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_ + +IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL +BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, +OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS +HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX. + + + +XXVII + + +[495] PLAIN LAMB [1] + _AGNUM SIMPLICEM_ + +OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND +ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT +WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2] +AND SERVE. + + [1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish + Stew." + + [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} 492, XXIV; the presence of onion, + however, would do no harm here. + + + +XXVIII + + +[496] KID WITH LASER + _HAEDUM LASARATUM_ + +THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER, +BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW +TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE +MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS +BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY. + + [1] There being only liquids for this filling of the + guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat, + eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable + filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, + for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked + before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as + not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during + the roasting to cook any raw dressing. + + + +XXIX + + +[497] THRUSH "A LA SANTE" + _TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1] + +CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF +THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING +THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE +COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS. + + [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived + from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills. + + [2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin. + + [3] Cf. note to {Rx} 496, XXVIII. + + [4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are + not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the + entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned, + saute, and are either put back into the carcasses, or + are served separately on bread croutons. In this + instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through + the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to + Apicius. + + [5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small + amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for + frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to + believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled" + but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil; + this would make the ancient process remarkably similar + to the present European way of preparing thrush or + fieldfare, or similar game birds. + + For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to {Rx} No. + 250. + + + +XXX + + +[498] TURTLEDOVES + _TURTURES_ + +OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE +BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE +ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM. + + + +XXXI + + +[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1] + _IUS IN PERDICES_ + +CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH +VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL +LIKEWISE AND SERVE. + + [1] This formula evidently is a fragment. + + +END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius] + +_EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM_ + +[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS] + + + + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709 + +Lister's second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able +printers, the Jansson-Waesbergs. It is a very worthy book in every +respect which, as M. Graesse says in Tresor des livres rares et +precieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.} + +{Transcription: + + APICII C{OE}LII + DE + OPSONIIS + ET + CONDIMENTIS, + Sive + ARTE COQUINARIA, + LIBRI DECEM. + Cum Annotationibus + MARTINI LISTER, + e Medicis domesticis Serenissimae Majestatis + Reginae Annae, + ET + Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, + HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, + A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, + ut & _Variarum Lectionum_ Libello. + EDITIO SECUNDA. + _Longe auctior atque emendatior._ + + {Decoration} + + AMSTELODAMI, + Apud JANSSONIO-WAESBERGIOS + + MDCCIX.} + + + + +APICIANA + + + + +{Illustration: DIAGRAM + +of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each +other and indicating the sources of the present translation.} + +{Transcription: + + +=============+ +=========================+ +===============+ + |MS | |MS | |MS | + |ROME | |The | | | + |Vatican Vrbin|-----|ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS |------|Now in | + |lat. 1146 | |* | |NEW YORK CITY | + |* | |Formerly in the Monastery| |* | + |9th Century | |of Fulda. Probably | |formerly | + +=============+ |written prior to the | |CHELTENHAM | + | \ \ |9th Century | |Bibl. Phillipps| + | \ \ |(now lost) | |275 | + | \ \ +=========================+ |9th Century | + | \ \ +===============+ + | \ \ / | | + +---------+ \ \ +====================+ / | | + |MS | | | |MS. PARIS lat. 10318| / | | + |PARIS | | | |Apici Excerpta a | / | | + |lat. 8209| | | |Vinidario v.i. 8th | / | | + |15th | | | |Cent. | / | | + |century | | | +====================+ / | | + +---------+ | \ \ / | | + | \ ------\ /--------------- | | + | --- \ / \ | | + +=================+ \ | \ | | + | | | | \ | | + | +-----------+ | | | \ | | + | |MS | | | | \ | | + | |FLORENCE | | | | \ / | + | |Laur. 73.20| | | | \ / | + | |15th | | | | | / | + | |century | | | +---------+ | / +---------+ + | +-----------+ | | |MS | | / |The | + | | | |MUNICH | | | |HUMELBERG| + | +------------+ | | |lat. 756 | | | |EDITION | + | |MS | | | |Critinus | | | |Zuerich | + | |ROME, Vat | | | |1469 A.D.| | | |1542 | + | |lat. 1145 | | | +---------+ | | +---------+ + | |15th century| | | | | | + | +------------+ | | | | | + | | | | | | + | | | | | | + | +----------+ | | +------------+ | | | + | |MS | | | |EDITIO | | | | + | |FLORENCE | | | |PRINCEPS | | | +------------+ + | |Laur. | |....|Venice, ca. | | | |The | + | |Strozz. 67| | | |1485-1490 | | | |LISTER | + | |15th cent | | | |from unknown| | | |EDITIONS | + | +----------+ | | |codex | | | |London, 1705| + | | | |(Honterus?) | | | |Amsterdam | + | | | +------------+ | | |1709 | + | | | | | +------------+ + | +---------+ | | | | | | + | |MS | | | | | | | + | |FLORENCE | | | | | | | + | |Ricc. 141| | | \ / | | + | |15th | | | \ / | | + | |century | | | \ / | | + | +---------+ | | \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | +---------+ | | +-----------+ / \ / | + | |MS | | | |The | / \ / | + | |FLORENCE | | | |LANCILOTUS-| / \ / | + | |Ricc. 622| |----|SIGNERRE |----------------- \ | + | |15th | | | |EDITIONS, | / \/ \ | + | |century | | | |Milan |\ / /\ \ | + | +---------+ | | |1490 (?) | \ / / \ \ | + | | | |1498 | \/ / \ \ | + | | | +-----------+ /\ / \ \ | + | | | | \ / \ \ | + | +----------+ | | | +---------+ | | | + | |MS | | | | |The | | | | + | |OXFORD | | | | |BERNHOLD | | | | + | |Bodl. Can.| | | | |Editions | | | | + | |lat. 163 | | | | |1787-1800| | | | + | |1490 | | | | +---------+ | | | + | +----------+ | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | | + | | | +-----------+ | | +----------+ + | | | |The | | | |The | + | +----------+ | | |TORINUS | | | |SCHUCH | + | |MS | | | |EDITIONS: | | | |EDITIONS | + | |OXFORD | |....|Basel-Lyons| | \ |Heidelberg| + | |Bodl. Ad | | | |1541 | | \ |1867-1874 | + | |B. 110 | | | |from codex | | \ +----------+ + | |15th cent.| | | |found by |------------ \ | + | +----------+ | | |Torinus | | \ \ | + | | | +-----------+ | \ \ | + | | | | \ \ | + | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ | + | |MS | | | |The | | \ \ | + | |CESENA | | | |BASEGGIO| | \ \ | + | |151. mun.| |----|Edition,| | \ \ | + | |14th | | | |Venice | | \ \ | + | |century | | | |1852 |------------------- \ \ | + | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ \ | + | | | / \ \ \ | + | +---------+ | \ +-----------+/ \ +-----------+ + | |MS | | \ |The | \|The | + | |ROME, Vat| | \|GIARRATANO-|--------------------|VEHLING | + | |lat. 6803| | |VOLMER | |TRANSLATION| + | |15th | | |Edition | |Chicago | + | |century | | |Leipzig | |1926 | + | +---------+ | |1922 | +-----------+ + | | +-----------+ + +=================+} + + + + +{Illustration: INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM + +Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th +century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.} + + + + +APICIANA + +A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions + + +A. MANUSCRIPTS + +SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS + + LOCATION NO. OF MS. BOOKS + New York, I 1 + Rome, II, IV and XVII 3 + Paris, III and V 2 + Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX 4 + Oxford, X and XI 2 + Cesena, XII 1 + Munich, XVIII 1 + Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI 4 + -- + Total of manuscript books 18 + +(Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI, +Oxford) + + +DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS + + +I, 9TH CENTURY + +New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in +Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of +Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 +pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come +from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the +7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but +mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the +Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda. + +Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6. + +The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the +opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index +is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in +an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America +by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M. +in 1931. + + +II, 9TH CENTURY + +Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 +sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 x 18.75 +cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 +R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit. +quadr.) IN{=C}{=P} || API || CAE ||--Nothing else. Sheet 1 V--3 R the +title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I, +illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the +foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple +similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN{=C}{=P} || CONDIT{=V} || +PARADOX{=V}. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum +Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The +captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words +usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle. +The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V +end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X. + +Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in +or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century. + + +III, 8TH CENTURY + +Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici +excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.) + +Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulae not found in the traditional Apicius +and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding +the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius. + + +IV, 15TH CENTURY + +Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th +century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius. + + +V, 15TH CENTURY + +Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the +page. + + +VI, 15TH CENTURY + +Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page. + + +VII, 15TH CENTURY + +Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the +page. Title, Apicius. + + +VIII, 15TH CENTURY + +Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular +number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century. + + +IX, 1462 + +Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, +79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by +Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462. + + +X, 1490 + +Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490. +(_In fine_) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die +xxviii Maii MCCCCLXXXX. + + +XI, 15TH CENTURY + +Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. +Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western +Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that +this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann. + + +XII, 14TH CENTURY + +Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century. + + +XIII + +A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which +burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La +Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l'Umbria, +III, 1886, 518, 790. + + +XIV + +A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. +Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204. + + +XV-XVI + +The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of +Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius "codex" on the +island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of +Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient +manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian +printed edition in his _epistola dedicatoria_ leaves even doubt as to +whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, +printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as +Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with +the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this +fact, his text, from a culinary point of view seems to be more +authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions. + +The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by +Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for +the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other +mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, +was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio +Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable. + + +XVII, 15TH CENTURY + +Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century. + + +XVIII, 15TH CENTURY + +Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex +is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the +Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 _seq._ + + +B. PRINTED EDITIONS + +SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS + + NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE + 1 ca. A.D. 1483(?) Venice, Italy Latin + 2 A.D. 1490(?) Milan, Italy (doubtful) Latin + 3 A.D. 1498 Milan, Italy Latin + 4 A.D. 1503 Venice, Italy Latin + 5 A.D. 1541 Basel, Switzerland Latin + 6 A.D. 1541 Lyons, France Latin + 7 A.D. 1542 Zuerich, Switzerland Latin + 8 A.D. 1705 London, England Latin + 9 A.D. 1709 Amsterdam, Holland Latin + 10 A.D. 1787 Marktbreit, Germany Latin + 11 A.D. 1791 Luebeck, Germany Latin + 12 A.D. 1800 Ansbach, Germany Latin + 13 A.D. 1852 Venice, Italy Italian + 14 A.D. 1867 Heidelberg, Germany Latin + 15 A.D. 1874 Heidelberg, Germany Latin + 16 A.D. 1909 Leipzig, Germany German + 17 A.D. 1911 Leipzig, Germany German + 18 A.D. 1922 Leipzig, Germany Latin + 19 A.D. 1933 Paris, France French + 20 A.D. 1936 Chicago, U. S. A. English + + +COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS + + NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE + 21 A.D. 1531* Frankfurt, Germany Latin + 22 A.D. 1534* Frankfurt, Germany Latin + 23 A.D. 1535* Antwerp, Belgium Latin + 24 A.D. 1831 Heidelberg, Germany German + 25 A.D. 1868 London, England English + 26 A.D. 1912 Naples, Italy Italian + 27 A.D. 1920 Munich, Germany German + 28 A.D. 1921 Rome, Italy Latin-Italian + 29 A.D. 1927 Leipzig, Germany German + +* Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius. + + Total of Printed Editions, in Latin 15 + Total of Printed Editions, in Italian 1 + Total of Printed Editions, in German 2 + Total of Printed Editions, in French 1 + Total of Printed Editions, in English 1 + Total of Commentaries in all Languages 9 + + Editions and Commentaries published in America 1 + Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium 1 + Editions and Commentaries published in England 2 + Editions and Commentaries published in France 2 + Editions and Commentaries published in Germany 13 + Editions and Commentaries published in Holland 1 + Editions and Commentaries published in Italy 7 + Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland 2 + + +BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS + +Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI. + +A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII. + +P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV. + +F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII. + +Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I. + +Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, +14, 15. + +Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, +13, 14, 15. + +Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9. + +Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12. + +Fabricius describes edition No. 2. + +Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21. + +In the author's collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, +16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29. + + +DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS + +These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and +printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the +students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate +the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our +ancient book. + +Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous +collectors pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the +well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps +is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine +different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of +a bibliography--Verzeichnis der Litteratur ueber Speise und Trank bis +zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing +some 1700 works. + +The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the +Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of +its kind. + +Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery +Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the +Apicii. + +The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being +stored away in a warehouse during the world war. + +The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the +Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire +mentions eleven Apicius editions. + +The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both +dispersed. + +Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been +unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1 +and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we +do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition +described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here +cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order +to present a complete survey of the Apician literature. + + +NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE + + APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM || SUETONIUS + TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS GR{=A}MATICIS. || SUETONIUS + TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS RHETORIBUS || COQUINARIAE CAPITA + GRAECA AB APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT || EPIMELES, (_Etc. In + fine_) IMPRESSUM VENETIIS PER BERNARDINUM VENETUM. + +No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition +by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not +numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29. + + +NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490 + + APICIUS CULINARIS (_sic_) (CURA BLASII LANCILOTI _In + fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILIERUM DE + SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM. ANNO DOMINI M CCCC LXXXX DIE + VIII MENSIS JANUARII. + +Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers. + +Ex Bernhold, _praefatio_, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin +text) says, "Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the +Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very +famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr. +Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course, +is above reproach; these are his own words--The book is made in the +size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are +indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. +Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under +this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into +eight leaves--sixteen printed pages--stitched together] and two +leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets +preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a +kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should +say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are +nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, +some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while +the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts, +are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next +sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with +the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows +sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise +the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris +[_sic_] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date +where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside +from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than +the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, +IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, 'Joannes de +Lagniano M.' At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are +inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the +title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending +to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the +poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius, +comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the +third page is finished off with the word, 'Finis,' while the fourth +page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, +as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by +letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last +page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, 'Antonius Mota to +the Public,' consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another +composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And +conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, 'Printed at +Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of +the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.' + +"From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest--with no other +known earlier edition--all the variants given herewith have been +collected by Goezius." Thus far Bernhold. + +The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to +Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of +Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be +the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however, +what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition. + +"Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition," says he; and +he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. +Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the +effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius +Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis. + +Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nuernberg has revealed the +fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the +library there. + + +NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN + + APICIUS CULINARIUS (_in fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER + MAGISTRUM GUILERUM SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM, ANNO DNI + MCCCCLXXXXVIII, DIE XX, MENSIS IANUARII. + +(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not +numbered. + +{Illustration: COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498 + +From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, +1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are +identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition. + +Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read +for "the 8th day of January, 1490" which date is attributed to our +Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although +several bibliographers speak about it.} + +{Transcription: + + Antonius mota Ad vulgus. + + Plaudite sartores: caetari: plaudite ventres + Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui + Pila sit albanis quaecunq; ornata lagaenis + Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet + Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum + Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas + Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto + Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem. + + Ioannes salandus lectori. + + Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati: + Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum: + Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas + Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat: + Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni + Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat: + Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi + Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor: + Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote: + Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm. + + + Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum + Signerre Rothomagensem Anno d{=n}i. Mcccclxxxx + viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.} + +This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M.D. +Francofurti ad M{oe}num" and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862. + +Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius +[_sic_] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold +Guilierum. + +Vicaire's description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold's +and his collaborator's account of the preceding edition. There are +certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius +de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29. + + +NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3 + +GESAMTKATALOG DER WIEGENDRUCKE, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as +the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [_sic_] printed by +William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The +second place is given APICIUS DE RE COQUINARIA printed by Bernardinus +de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This +classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the +Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful +1490 Milan edition (our No. 2). + +Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes +Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to +notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent +on the subject, same as the other bibliographers. + +Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius +(our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the +Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell. + +A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius--Bibliotheca +Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 +and the Bibliotheca Latina mediae et infimae [middle ages], ib. 1735, has +failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as +described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nuernberg Municipal +Library. + +Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be +mistaken for "the 8th day of January, 1490," Bernhold's very date! +Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and +Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent +searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion +that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and +our time or else that it never existed. + + +NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE + + APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || COQUINARIAE + CAPITA GRAECA AB APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT. || EPIMELES: + ARTOPTUS: CEPURICA: PANDECTER: OSPRION || TROPHETES: + POLYTELES: TETRAPUS: THALASSA: HALIEUS || HANC PLATO + ADULATRICEM MEDICINAE APPELLAT || [_in fine_] IMPRESSUM + UENETIIS P IOHANNEM DE CERETO DE TRIDINO ALIAS TACUINUM. + M.CCCCC.III. DIE TERTIO MENSIS AUGUSTI. + +4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, +by 4. + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503 + +From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de +Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition +of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the +Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. +Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a +book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title +pages.} + +{Transcription: + + Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem. + + Coquinariae capita Graeca ab Apitio posita haec sunt. + Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion + Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus. + Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinae appellat.} + +On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 +Milan edition (No. 2) "Antonius mota ad uulgus" (4 distichs) and +"Iohannes salandi Lectori" (5 distichs). The verso of this page is +blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by +Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to +No. 2. + +Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell. + +In the collection of the author. + + +NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL + + CAELII APITII || SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDI || CINAE ARTIFICIS + DE RE CVLINARIA LIBRI X. RE || CENS E TENEBRIS ERUTI & A + MENDIS UINDICATI, || TYPISQUE SVMMA DILIGENTIA || + EXCUSI. || PRAETEREA, || P. PLATINAE CREMO || NENSIS VIRI + UNDECVNQVE DO || CTISSIMI, DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA + RERUM, & POPINAE || SCIENTIA LIBRI X. AD IMITATIONEM C. + API || TII AD UNGUEM FACTI. || AD HAEC, || PAVLI AEGINETAE + DE || FACVLTATIBUS ALIMENTORVM TRA || CTATVS, ALBANO + TORINO || INTERPRETE. || CUM INDICE COPIOSISSIMO. || + BASILEAE || M.D.XLI. [_in fine_] BASILEAE, MENSE MARTIO, + ANNO M D X L I. + +4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not +numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences +with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small +Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, +likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso +of the title page, under the heading of "Katalogos et Epigraphe Decem +Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii" are both in Greek and Roman +characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black +letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or +Oporinus press, but bears no printer's name or device. + +The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by +"Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino +Paraphraste," not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from +p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for "condimenta" and +"conditvrae"; these are followed on the same page by "De Facvltatibvs +Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo AEgineta, Albano Torino Interprete" which book is +concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor with any +very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: +"P. [_sic_] Platinae Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda +ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinae scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. +Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I." The ten +books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering +down with the words: "P. [_sic_] Platinae libri decimi et vltimi +Finis" and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank. + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541 + +This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius +is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel +in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, +frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with +startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus' spelling of "P" +[Bartholomaeus] Platina, but note the spelling of "Lvg[v]dvni" (Lyons). +Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: "This [book] +amuses me! Why make fun of me?"} + +{Transcription: + + CAELII + APITII, SVMMI + ADVLATRICUS + MEDICINAE ARTIFICIS, + De re Culinaria libri + Decem. + + {Handwriting} + + B. PLATINAE CREMONENSIS + _De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinae + scientia Libri x._ + + PAVLI AEGINETAE DE FACULTATIBUS + _alimentorum Tractatus, + Albano Torino Interprete_. + + {Handwriting} + + {Decoration} + + APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM + LVGVDVNI, + 1541.} + +Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the +same editor's name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This +edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows: + + +NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS + + CAELII || APITII SVM || MI ADVLATRICIS || MEDICINAE + ARTIFICIS, || DE RE CULINARIA LIBRI || DECEM || B. + PLATINAE CREMONEN || SIS DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA + RERUM & POPINAE || SCIENTIA LIBRI X, || PAULI AEGINETAE DE + FACULTATIBUS ALIMENTORUM TRACTATUS, || ALBANO TORINO + INTER || PRETE. + +The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius +printer's device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported +by a winged globe. On the left of the device: "virtute duci," on the +right: "comite fortuna"; directly underneath: "Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, +Lvgvdvni [_sic_], 1541." Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with +verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on +verso of title "Katalogos" etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences +with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire +corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the +captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an +unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous +margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small +interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page +shows another printer's device, differing from that on the title, +another griffin. + +This edition, though bearing Platina's correct initial, B., has the +fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed +one of the earliest editions of Platina's De honesta Voluptate, +printed without a title page. + +Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and +we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel +edition. + +The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates +and asks his patron's protection, is concluded with the date, Basileae, +v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire +appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of +his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title "Lvgdvni, 1541" +which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. +Of these two editions Vicaire says: + +"Ces deux editions portent la meme date de 1541, mais celle qui a ete +publiee a Bale a paru avant celle donnee a Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette +derniere, en effet, contient la dedicace datee." The title page of our +copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic +remark: "Mulcens me, gannis?" This copy is bound in the original +vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12. + +The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as +will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be +found in Platina, maestro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di +Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabo, Cremona, 1935. + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZUeRICH, 1542 + +The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the +great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes +Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.} + +{Transcription: + + IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA + + APICII CAELII + + DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, + SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA + LIBRI X. + + ITEM, + + Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici + Isnensis in Apicij Caelij libros X. + Annotationes. + + TIGVRI IN OFFICINA + Froschouiana. Anno, + M. D. XLII. + + {Handwriting} + + {Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}} + + +NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZUeRICH + + IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA. || APICII CAELII || DE OPSONIIS ET + CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE ARTE COQVINA || RIA, LIBRI X. || + ITEM, || GABRIELIS HUMELBERGIJ MEDICI, PHYSICI || + ISNENSIS IN APICIJ CAELIJ LIBROS X. || ANNOTATIONES. || + TIGVRI IN OFFICINA || FROSCHOUIANA. ANNO, || M.D. XLII. + +4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On +verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 +the dedication, dated "Isnae Algoiae, mense Maio, Anno a Christo nato, +M.D.XLII." Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the +books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso +commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Caelii Epimeles Liber I. + +The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the +editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, +fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our +copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by +Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title. + +G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell. + + +NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON + + APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, + || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM + ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || E MEDICIS DOMESTICIS + SERENISSIMAE MA || JESTATIS REGINAE ANNAE || ET || NOTIS + SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || + HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI: + || TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV. + +The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies. + +8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + +231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by +Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our +copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. +Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 +tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old +hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. +Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius. +Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather +pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, +that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to +visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly +flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but +the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful +Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's +letters, etc. pag. 269. + + "'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on + cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: + edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365." + +On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to +the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the +expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them +"Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men. + +{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705 + +The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen +Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. +This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being +limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition +(Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence +to that effect.} + +{Transcription: + + APICIANA + + APICII C{OE}LII + DE + OPSONIIS + ET + CONDIMENTIS, + Sive + Arte Coquinaria, + LIBRI DECEM. + + Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, + e Medicis domesticis serenissimae Majestatis + Reginae Annae. + + ET + + Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, + HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, + & VARIORUM. + + LONDINI: + Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.} + +Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in +the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the +index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, +the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a +bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in +this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list +was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this +present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original +binding, and perfect in every respect. + +{Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE + +of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the +edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the +expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac +Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to +this day.} + +{Transcription: + + _Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_ + Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_. + + Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury. + Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland. + J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland. + J. _Lord_ Sommers. + Charles _Lord_ Hallifax. + J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich. + Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells. + Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_. + _Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_. + _Sir_ Christopher Wren. + Tho. Foley, _Esq_; + Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_. + William Gore, _Esq_; + Francis Ashton, _Esq_; + _Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg. + John Hutton, } + Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._ + Hans Sloane. }} + + +NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM + + APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, + || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM + ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || E MEDICIS + DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMAE MAJE || STATIS REGINAE ANNAE, || ET + || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, + || HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN, + & ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO + SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. || + AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WAESBERGIOS. || M D C C I + X. + +Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus +Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister +to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus +Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten +books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, +commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variae Lectiones, 9 +leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered. + +Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez +estimee. On peut l'annexer a la collection des Variorum d'apres M. +Graesse, Tresor des Livres rares et precieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is +in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of +James Maidment. + +The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very +esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but +there is no proof of this. + +Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done +justice the Elzevirs. + + +NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT + + CAELII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS || + SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS + VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHAEL + BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CAESAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED. + D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN || + DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULAE, + PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRAEFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS || + ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIAE IMPERIALI || NATURAE + SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS. + +The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for +the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. +81, where one reads: Marcobraitae, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, +M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, +with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped +on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of +Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as +above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectae ex +Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hae +Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Goezio +Scholae Sebaldinae Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib. +I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that +these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated +in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variae Lectiones Manuscripti +Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith +given in full. Bernhold states that these Variae Lectiones have been +taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found +following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these +Variae, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The +following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister +edition also: + + "Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere + iisdem, quibus Pandectae Florentinae, scripto; qui + seruatur hodie Romae in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter + libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris + temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quae Ducatum + istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino + Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca + Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus + [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca + Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, + ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; + qui illas suae, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatae; + Apicii editioni inseri curauit." + +On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianae, and +on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the +Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the +Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf. + +Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; +G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel +have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on +p. 81. + +Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the +autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791. + +Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by +Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from +the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, +unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own +observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the +English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable +because of the above mentioned variants. + + +NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LUeBECK + +[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor +Pennell. + + +NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH + +APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800. + +Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by +Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection. + + +NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE + +APITIUS CAELIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA +CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO. + +8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli. + +Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077. + + +NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG + +APICI CAELI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE +ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM || +LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT +|| CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGAE, 1867. + +8vo. pp. 202. + +Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell. + + +NO. 15, A.D. 1874 + +[The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGAE, 1874, [Winter]. + +Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees +with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. +Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher +Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, +worthless. + + +NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG + +DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTROeMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche +uebersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter +Kunstblaetter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstuecke. Breslau und Leipzig bei +Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154. + + +NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG + +APICIUS CAELIUS: ALTROeMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BUeCHERN. Bearbeitet und +ins Deutsche uebersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer +Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Daeweritz, +Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der +Koeche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127. + + +NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG + + APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA || + QVAE EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER + || LIPSIAE IN AEDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII. + + +NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS + +LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Premiere +fois et commentes par Bertrand Guegan. Paris Rene Bonnel Editeur rue +Blanche, No. 8. + +No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false +title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du meme auteur_"--a +full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past +and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a +lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of +Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les +Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On +p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the +_incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences +the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. +_Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered +sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_, +with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres. +The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is +No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch +Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper. + +Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had +gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the +French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason. + +However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here. + +A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has +been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the +adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of +his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text. + +The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The +material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory +notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. +The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the +classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. +Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the +age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars. + +The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, +disturbing. + +Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough +study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and +new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the +mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't +matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil +the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the +sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the +scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor +instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling +can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and +unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and +adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the +matter. + + +NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO + +Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition. + + +DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES + + +NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT + +DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natuerlichen und Kreuterwein, aller +Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Kuenst, insonders fleissig +gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera +cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to. + +Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is +related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little +bearing on Apicius. + + +NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT + +POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to. + +Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron +Pichon collection, No. 569. + + +NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP + + SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM + AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA, + AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA + || LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUAEDAM + || LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VAENEUNT ANTUERPIAE IN AEDI || + BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in + beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN. + GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV. + +Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, +with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In +Scholam Apitianam Praefatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiae Sacram esse, etc. +On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and +Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse +debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Praecepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De +Ciborvm Ratione by Michaele Savonarola [Grandfather of the great +Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndae Mensae, by Paulus Aegineta; +and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, +partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely +fictitious. + +In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in +detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same +as the above in text. + + +NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG + +FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur naeheren Kenntniss der +Nahrungsmittel der alten Roemer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo. + + +NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON + +H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archaeologia, vol. +XLI. + +Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe. + + +NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES + +CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO. +Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl. + + +NO. 27, AD. 1920 + +FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM ROeMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS. +Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen +Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und +historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. Muenchen, 1920. +Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des +G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth). + + +NO. 28, A.D. 1921 + +G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI. + + +NO. 29, AD. 1927 + +UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM ROeMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Loesung der +Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche +Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. +164 pp. + +Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the +Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not +conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he +has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and +the authors of our old Roman cookery book. + + +APICIANAE FINIS + + + + +{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES + +Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of +satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.} + + + + +INDEX and VOCABULARY + + + A + + Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana + + Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv + + ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. + Gluttony, intemperance + + ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most + Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa + + Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from + several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM + + ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3 + + ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth + or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3 + + ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 + + ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147 + + ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart + + ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 + Attic drachms; see Measures + + ACETUM, vinegar + ---- MULSUM, mead + + ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long + fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle + + ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER + + ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine + + ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones + + ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel + + ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO + + ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, + galangale + + ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste + + ACUS, same as ACICULA + + Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138 + + ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192 + + Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6, + 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive + + Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287 + + Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6 + + Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, + No. 5-6 + + AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, + a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service + platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, + stewed in wine + + AEROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141 + + Aethiopian Cumin {Rx} 35 + + "AFFE" (Ger.) Monkey; {Rx} 55; also see Caramel Coloring + + AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs) + + AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. {Rx} 291 seq., 355, + 364, 495 + ---- COPADIA AGNINA, {Rx} 355 seq. + ---- AGNI COCTURA, {Rx} 358 + ---- ASSUS, {Rx} 359 + ---- AGNUM SIMPLICEM, {Rx} 495 + ---- TARPEIANUS, {Rx} 363 + + AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the + victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after + predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the + carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. + These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with + cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best + quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind + magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer + + Albino, writer, p. 10 + + ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; ---- OVORUM, the "whites" of egg; ---- PIPER, + white pepper, etc. + + ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, + the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA + + Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important + Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, + famous for its luxury + + Alexandrine dishes {Rx} 75, 348, seq. + + ALICA, spelt. {Rx} 200 + + ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see + + ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a puree of pounded garlic + whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a + preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything + flavored with garlic or leeks + + ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE + + Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. {Rx} 57 + + AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew + + AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid + + AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; {Rx} 57, 59 + + Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV + + AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin + + AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil + + AMYGDALA (--UM) Almonds, {Rx} 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil + + AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that + which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil + usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present + roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for + the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the + present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, + which is also a sort of frumenty + + Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens + during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7 + + ANAS, a duck or drake; {Rx} 212-17. ANATEM, {Rx} 212; ANATEM EX + RAPIS, {Rx} 214 + + Anchovy, a small fish; {Rx} 147; cf. APUA. ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 138; + ---- sauce and GARUM (which see) {Rx} 37; ---- omelette {Rx} 147 + + ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise + + ANGUILLA, eel, {Rx} 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO + + ANGULARUS, a "square" dish or pan + + ANISUM, anise, pimpinella + + ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, {Rx} 234; ---- JUS CANDIDUM {Rx} 228 + + ANTIPASTO, "Before the Meal," modern Italian appetizer; the prepared + article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, + artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil + + APER, see APRUS + + APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO + + Aphricocks, {Rx} 295 + + APHROS, {Rx} 295 + + APHYA, see APUA + + Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9 + ---- cookery, influence, p. 16, 23 + ---- Archetypus, p. 19 + ---- manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq. + ---- Terminology, p. 22 + ---- dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23 + ---- sauces, p. 24 + ---- Style of writing, p. 26 + ---- research, p. 34 seq. + + Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252 + + Apicius, pp. 7, 9 + ---- The man, p. 9 + ---- Athenaeus on, p. 9 + ---- and Platina, p. 9 + ---- Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9 + ---- ships oysters, p. 10 + ---- school, p. 10 + ---- death, pp. 10, 11 + ---- reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15 + ---- authenticity of, pp. 18, 19 + ---- writer, p. 26, {Rx} 176, 436 + ---- confirmed by modern science, p. 33 + ---- editors as cooks, p. 34 seq. + + Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9 + + APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. {Rx} 104 + + APOTHERMA (--UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. {Rx} 57; + cf. TISANA + + APPARATUS, preparation; ---- MENSAE, getting dinner ready + + Appetizers. {Rx} 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the + first dishes served. The "moveable appetizer" of Apicius is very + elaborate, p. 210 + + Appert, Francois, {Rx} 24, father of the modern canning methods + + Apples, {Rx} 22, 171 + + APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. {Rx} 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, {Rx} 338, + also APER + + APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, + white bait, or minnow. {Rx} 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a + town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI + + AQUA, water; ---- CALIDA, hot w.; ---- CISTERNINA, well w.; ---- + MARINA, sea w.; ---- NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; + ---- RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; ---- PLUVIALE, rain w. + + AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw + + Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram + + ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks' names + + ARIDA (--US, --UM) dry; ---- MENTHA, dry mint + + ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon + + ARTOCREAS, meat pie + + ARTOPTES, Torinus' title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, + minced meats + + ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM + + Asa foetida, use of ---- {Rx} 15, p. 23 + + ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard + + ASCALONICA CEPA, "scallion," young onion + + Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, {Rx} 72, ---- and figpecker, {Rx} 132, + ---- custard pie, {Rx} 133 + + ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. {Rx} 266-270 + + ASSUS, roast + + ASTACUS, a crab or lobster + + Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq. + ---- on Apicius, p. 10 + + Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158 + + ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach + + ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen + purposes, hence the name, "black room," because of the smoky walls. + Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into + a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, + and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house + + ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. {Rx} 218, seq. + + AURATA, a fish, "golden" dory, red snapper. {Rx} 157, 461, 462 + + AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE + ---- NUX, ---- NUCLEUS, kernel of f. {Rx} 297 and in the list of + the Excerpta + + AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats + + AVIBUS, IN-- {Rx} 220, 21, 24, 27 + + AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer + + AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. ---- HIRCOSAE, + ill-smelling birds, {Rx} 229-30, ---- NE LIQUESCANT, {Rx} 233 + + + B + + BACCA, berry, seed. ---- MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; ---- RUTAE, rue + berry; ---- LAUREA, laurel berry, etc. + + Bacon, {Rx} 285-90; see also SALSUM + + BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes + are named. {Rx} 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM + ----, FABAE, etc. {Rx} 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, {Rx} 431 + + Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 + + Bantam Chicken, {Rx} 237 + + Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158 + + Barley Broth, {Rx} 172, 200, 247 + + BARRICA, {Rx} 173 + + Barthelemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8 + + Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270 + + BASILICUM, basil + + Bavarian Cabbage, {Rx} 87 + + Beans, {Rx} 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green ---- {Rx} 247; ---- saute, + {Rx} 203; ---- in mustard, {Rx} 204 + ---- Baian style, {Rx} 202 + ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM + + Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio + + Beef, p. 30; shortage of ---- diet, p. 30 + ---- "Beef Eaters," p. 30 + ---- dishes, {Rx} 351, seq. + + Beets, {Rx} 70, 97, 98, 183 + ---- named for Varro, {Rx} 70, 97, 98 + + Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258 + + Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq. + + BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, {Rx} 70 + + Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana + + Birds, Book VI, {Rx} 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling ---- {Rx} + 229, 230 + + BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to + some interpreters + + Boar, wild, {Rx} 329-38, p. 314 + + Boiled Dinners, {Rx} 125 + + BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, {Rx} 183 + + BOLETUS, mushroom, {Rx} 309-14 + + Bordelaise, {Rx} 351 + + Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268 + + BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, {Rx} 60. BOTULUS, a + sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, {Rx} 60, 61, 172 + + BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, {Rx} 431, 481 + + Bouquet garni, {Rx} 138 + + BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA + + Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater + ---- for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61 + + Brain Sausage, {Rx} 45 + ---- Custard, {Rx} 128 + ---- and bacon, {Rx} 148 + ---- and chicken with peas, {Rx} 198 + + Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, {Rx} 29, 170, p. 273 + + BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; ---- CAMPESTRA, turnip; ---- OLERACEA, + cabbage and kale; ---- MARINA, sea kale (?) + + Bread, Alexandrine, {Rx} 126; Picentian ----, {Rx} 125. The methods + of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations + of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which + see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that + was as highly developed in his days as was cookery + + BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234 + + Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, {Rx} 376 + + Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182 + + Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ----, {Rx} 172, 200, 201 + ---- How to redeem a spoiled, {Rx} 9 + + BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352 + + BUBULUS CASEUS, cow's cheese + + BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; + Fr. BOUCHEE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate + morsel; hence probably, Ger. "Buss'l" a little kiss and "busseln," + to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect + + BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier's bread, hard tack + + BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, {Rx} 285, 304-8 + + BULBI FRICTI, {Rx} 308 + + BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR + + BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for + cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions + interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum + is said to derive from the German Butter + + + C + + CABBAGE, {Rx} 87-92, 103; p. 188 + Bavarian, {Rx} 87 + Ingenious way of cooking, {Rx} 88 + Chartreuse, {Rx} 469 + + CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp. + 183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See + also SALACACCABIA, {Rx} 468. I Exc. 470 + + CAELIUS, see Coelius + + CAEPA, CEPA, onion; ---- ARIDA, fresh onion; ---- ROTUNDA, round + onion; ---- SICCA, dry o.; ---- ASCALONICA, young o. "scallion;" + ---- PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety + + Calamary, cuttlefish, {Rx} 405, p. 343 + + CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress + + CALLUM, CALLUS (---- PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. + {Rx} 9, 251, 255 + + CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, {Rx} 3, where Vermouth was made + + CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, {Rx} 43 + + CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen + + CANCER, crab + + Canning, {Rx} 23-24 + + CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274 + + CAPON, {Rx} 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, {Rx} 166 + + CAPPAR, caper + + CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca + + CAPPARUS, CARABUS, {Rx} 397 + + CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; {Rx} 346-8 + + Caramel coloring, {Rx} 55, 73, 119, 124, 146 + + CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed + + CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress + + Cardoons, {Rx} 112-4 + + CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, {Rx} 112-3 + + Careme, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution + period; his chartreuses compared, {Rx} 186, p. 35 + + CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume + to keep it. {Rx} 35 + + CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway + + CARICA (---- FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the + fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, + which see + + CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date + wine; {Rx} 35 + + CARO, flesh of animals, {Rx} 10; ---- SALSA, pickled meat + + CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; {Rx} 121-3 + + Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, see also + Careme + + CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage + + CARYOPHYLLUS, clove + + Casa di Forno, Pompeii, "House of the Oven," illustration, p. 2 + + CASEUS, cheese; {Rx} 125, 303; ---- BUBULUS, cow's cheese; ---- + VESTINUS, {Rx} 126 + + CASTANEA, chestnut, {Rx} 183 seq. + + Catesby, writer, {Rx} 322 + + Catfish, {Rx} 426 + + CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia + + Caul Sausage, Kromeski, {Rx} 45 + + CAULICULOS, {Rx} 87-92; also Col-- cul-- and coliclus + + Cauliflower, {Rx} 87 + + Caviare, see STYRIO + + Celery, {Rx} 104 + + Celsinus, a Roman, {Rx} 376-7 + + CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; ---- RECTA, + a "regular" meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, + appetizers and light ENTREES, the CENA proper which is the PIECE DE + RESISTANCE and the MENSAE SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was + the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE + POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace's + saying "AB OVO USQUE AD MALA" which freely translated and modernized + means, "Everything from soup to nuts." + + ---- AUGURALIS, ---- PONTIFICALIS, ---- CAPITOLINA, ---- PERSICA, + ----SYBARITICA, ---- CAMPANAE, ---- CEREALIS, ---- SALIARIS, + ----TRIUMPHALIS, ---- POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, + official banquets, refined private parties each with its special + significance which is hard to render properly into our language + except by making a long story of it + + ---- PHILOSOPHICA, ---- PLATONICA, ---- LACONICA, ---- RUSTICA, + ----CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the ---- ICCI + is that of a downright miser. ---- HECATES is a hectic meal, + ----TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, ---- DEUM, a home-cooked meal, + and a ---- SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a + national dinner + + ---- NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the + burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm + and fresh. ---- DUBIA, {Rx} 139, is the "doubtful meal" which + causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry + + The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day + meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an + early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the + meals for those who had "earned" a bite + + There are further CENAE, such as ---- DAPSILIS, ---- PELLOCIBILIS, + ---- UNCTA, ---- EPULARIS, ---- REGALIS, all more or less generous + affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by + no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best + proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how + much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements + + CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion + + CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca + + CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III + + CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) + whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome + + CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, {Rx} 46 + + CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE + + Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus + + CERVUS, stag, venison, {Rx} 339-45 + + Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII + + CHAMAE, cockles + + Chamois, {Rx} 346 seq. + + Charcoal used for filtering, {Rx} 1 + + CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian + monks and Careme + + "Chasseur," {Rx} 263 + + Cheese, cottage, {Rx} 303; also see CASEUS + + Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I + + Cherries, {Rx} 22, see CERASUS + + Chestnuts, {Rx} 183-84a + + Chicken, PULLUS + ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 50; ---- broth, 51; ---- fricasse, 56; ---- + boiled, 235, 236, 242; ---- and dasheens, 244; ---- creamed, with + paste, 247; ---- stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17, 235; ---- in cream, + 250; ---- disjointed, 139, note 1; ---- Bantam, 237; ---- cold, in + its own gravy, 237; ---- fried or saute, 236; ---- Guinea hen, + 239; ---- Fricasse Varius, 245; ---- a la Fronto, 246; ---- + Parthian style, 237; ---- and leeks, 238; ---- with laser, 240; + ---- roast, 241; ---- and pumpkin, 243; ---- galantine, 249; ---- + fried with cream sauce, 250; ---- Maryland, Wiener Backhaehndl, 250 + + Chick-peas, {Rx} 207-9; p. 247 + + Chimneys on pies, {Rx} 141 + + Chipolata garniture, {Rx} 378 + + CHOENIX, a measure,--2 SEXTARII, {Rx} 52 + + Chops, {Rx} 261 + + CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, {Rx} 92 + + Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38 + + CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince + + CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE + LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; + CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, + meal, repast + + CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC + MANGER, "white eating." A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe + for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is + ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern + cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of + "chocolate" blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of + his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; + the incomplete Apicius in Platina's and in our days has no desserts + worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in "Ein Buch + von guter Spise") calls C.A. "Blamansier," plainly a corruption of + the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin + of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French + kitchen terminology + + CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel + + CIBUS, food, victuals, provender + + CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, {Rx} 207-209 + + Cicero, famous Roman, {Rx} 409 + + CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an + article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, + flamingo and similar birds + + CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke + + CINNAMONUM, cinnamon + + CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, {Rx} 65 + + CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM + + CITREUS, citron tree + + CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, {Rx} 23, + 81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. "MALUS QUAE CITRIA + VOCANTUR"; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks + this is a cucumber + + CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that + Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable + fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. + These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a + number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very + name of which is a corruption of CITRUS + + Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17 + + CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a + dough trough + + CNECON, {Rx} 16 + + CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle + + CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting + + COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, "cockles," periwinkles, {Rx} + 323-25. ---- LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail + "farm," place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. + Also a "spoonful," a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more + properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, 1/4 cyathus, the + capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing + snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail + + COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica + + COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria + + COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling + + COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. + COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted + + COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS + + COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook + + COCULUM, a cooking vessel + + COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see + + Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; + also Caelius, p. 13 + + COLADIUM, --EDIUM, --ESIUM, --OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, + which see + + Colander, illustration of a, p. 58 + + COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, + {Rx} 87-92 + + COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. {Rx} 73 + + COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of + which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the + ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the {Rx} 74, + 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322 + + COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. + See illustration, p. 58 + + COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, --A, squab, + {Rx} 220. Also used as an endearing term + + Columella, writer on agriculture; ---- on bulbs, {Rx} 307; ---- + mentioning Matius, {Rx} 167 + + COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives "swimming" in the brine; from COLYMBUS, + swimming pool + + Combination of dishes, {Rx} 46 + + Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272 + + Commodus, a Roman, {Rx} 197 + + Compote of early fruit, {Rx} 177 + + CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the + pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling + a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a + salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked "in the shell" + or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean + in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and + CONCICLA; {Rx} 194-98, 411. ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 195; ---- DE PISA, + {Rx} 196; ---- COMMODIANA, {Rx} 197; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 199 + + CONCHICLATUS, {Rx} 199 + + CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also + curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM + + CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to + spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does + this very thing) to preserve + + CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or + preserved, same as CONDITUM + + CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker + + CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer + + CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything + used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling ---- VIRIDE green herbs, pot + herbs; cf. CONDITURA. ---- PRO PELAMIDE, {Rx} 445; ---- PRO THYNNO, + {Rx} 446; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 447; ---- IN RUBELLIONEM, {Rx} 448; + ---- RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, {Rx} 449; ---- LACERTOS, {Rx} 456; + ---- PRO LACERTO ASSO, {Rx} 457; ---- THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, {Rx} 458; + ---- DENTICIS, {Rx} 460; ---- IN DENTICE ELIXO, {Rx} 461; ---- + AURATA, {Rx} 462; ---- IN AURATAM ASSAM, {Rx} 463; ---- SCORPIONES, + {Rx} 464; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466; ---- ALIUD ---- ANGUILLAE, {Rx} + 467 + + CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; ---- MELIRHOMUM, {Rx} 2 + ---- ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ---- PARADOXUM, {Rx} 1 ---- + VIOLARUM, {Rx} 5 + ---- Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253 + + CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the + three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in + meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet + dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles + known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for + confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the + specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the + nature of the several preparations listed under these headings, + particularly as follows: ---- ROSATUM, {Rx} 4; (cf. No. 5) ---- + MELLIS, {Rx} 17; ---- UVARUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM PUNICORUM, {Rx} + 21; ---- COTONIORUM, {Rx} 19; ---- FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, {Rx} + 20; ---- MALORUM MEDICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- MORORUM, {Rx} 25; ---- + OLERUM, {Rx} 26; ---- RUMICIS, {Rx} 27; ---- LAPAE, {Rx} 27; ---- + DURACINORUM, {Rx} 29; ---- PRUNORUM, etc., {Rx} 30 + --in most of these instances corresponds to our modern + "preserving" + + CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES + BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,--Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish + name to characterize a very cunning person, a "slippery" fellow. A + cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays + + CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild + marjoram. See SATUREIA + + CONYZA, the viscous elecampane + + Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, + infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were + few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an + imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess + + The cook's work place (formerly ATRIUM, the "black" smoky room) was + the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues + CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, + COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIERE, and so forth + + The German and Swedish for "kitchen" are KUeCHE and KOeKET, but the + words "cook" and "KOCH" are directly related to COQUUS + + A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, + having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or + ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek--"MAGEIROS"--plainly shows the + high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF + would think of calling himself "chief cook," although CHEF means + just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old + Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek + equivalent of the verb "to knead," which leads us to the art of + baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient + bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of + labor + + The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, + using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, + "that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; + for it the frugal bee principally labors." The PANCHESTRARIUS, + mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still + another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a + cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively + + The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the + PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often + presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, + too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two + "ENTREMETIERS." The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, + perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; + maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA--what's + the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one + of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, "Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are + piping hot! Come hither, fellows!" Not all of them did eat, however, + all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, + PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, "What? Thou art + a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?" + + From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or + furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to + the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the + "maitre d'hotel" of the establishment we see an organization very + much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen + + The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, + rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of + civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. "The Role + of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks" by E. M. Rankin, + Chic., 1907, and "Roman Cooks" by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two + monographs on this subject + + Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical + review of the Apicius book + ---- examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 17, 229, + 230, 384, 429 + ---- of flavoring and spicing, {Rx} 15, 277, 281, 369 + ---- deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, {Rx} + 15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428 + ---- modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, {Rx} 204 seq. + ---- examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, {Rx} 212-14, + 229, 230, 292 + ---- removing sinews from fowl, {Rx} 213 + ---- utensils, p. 15 + + Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273 + + COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a + waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the + caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA + energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant + customer, p. 7 + + COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, {Rx} 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, + seq., 355 + + Copper in Vegetable Cookery, {Rx} 66 + + Copyists and their work, p. 14 + + COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, --IUS, relating to the kitchen. + COQUO, --IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function + in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook + + COR, heart + + CORDYLA, CORDILLA, {Rx} 419, 423 + + CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; + LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract + + Corn, green, {Rx} 99 + + CORNUM, cornel berry; "CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT"--Platina + + CORNUTUS, horn-fish, {Rx} 442 + + CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus + + CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. + Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven + (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS + + COTANA, see COCTANA + + COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, + or pig's tails + + COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black + bryony + + COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, {Rx} 163 + + COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, 1/2 sextarius + + COTURNIX, quail + + COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning + taste but excellent flavor + + Court-bouillon, {Rx} 37, 138 + + Cow-parsnips, p. 188, {Rx} 115-122, 183 + + COXA, {Rx} 288 + + Crabs, {Rx} 485; crabmeat croquettes, {Rx} 44 + + Cracklings, p. 285, {Rx} 255 + + Crane, {Rx} 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, {Rx} 214-17 + + CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a + mixing bowl and oil container--see illustrations, p. 140 + + CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182 + + Creme renversee, {Rx} 129, 143 + + CREMORE, DE--, {Rx} 172 + + CRETICUM HYSOPUM, {Rx} 29, Cretan hyssop + + CROCUS, --OS, --ON, --UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, + saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, + perhaps saffron + + Croquettes, {Rx} 42, seq. + + Cucumber, CUCUMIS, {Rx} 82-84 + + CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, {Rx} 73-80, 136 + + CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining + to the kitchen + + CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 + inches long + + CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, {Rx} 237 + + Cumberland sauce, {Rx} 345 + + CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, --US, sauce or dish seasoned + with cumin, {Rx} 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are + named, {Rx} 178 + + CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony + + CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica + + CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a + "cooper" is a man who makes them + + CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric + + Custard, brain, {Rx} 27; ---- nut, {Rx} 128, 142; ---- of vegetables + and brain, {Rx} 130; ---- of elderberries, {Rx} 134; ---- rose, {Rx} + 135; see also {Rx} 301 + + Cutlets, {Rx} 261, 471-3 + + Cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 406-8 + + CYAMUS, Egyptian bean + + CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which + according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to + Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one + twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, {Rx} 131 + + CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, {Rx} 163, see also Malus + + CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, + {Rx} 87-9-92 + + CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM + + CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best + kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene + + + D + + DACTYLIS, long, "finger-like" grape or raisin; --US, long date, fruit + of a date tree, {Rx} 30 + + DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places + the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA + + DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, {Rx} 30. Either fresh + or dried + + Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271 + + Dasheen, {Rx} 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322 + + Dates, stuffed, {Rx} 294 + + DAUCUM, --US, --ON, a carrot + + DE CHINE, see Dasheen + + "Decline of the West," p. 17 + + DECOQUO, to boil down + + DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where + this is done, or where such wine is kept + + DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of + its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to + flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color + + DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, "Tooth-Fish," {Rx} 157, 459-60 + + Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125 + + Desserts, absent, p. 43 + + Desserts, Apician, {Rx} 143, 294, seq. + + DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, {Rx} 432 + + Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252 + + Didius Julianus, {Rx} 178 + + Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273 + + Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37 + ---- in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18 + + Diocles, writer, {Rx} 409 + + Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141 + + Dipper, illustrated, p. 3 + + DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter + + Disguising foods, {Rx} 133, pp. 33-4 + + Distillation, see Vinum + + Dormouse, {Rx} 396 + + Dory, {Rx} 157, 462-5 + + Doves, p. 265 + + Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8 + + Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16 + + Duck, p. 265, {Rx} 212-3; ---- with turnips, {Rx} 214-7 + + DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, {Rx} 16, 216, 294-6 + --RIUS, pastry cook, {Rx} 294 + + Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24 + + Dumpling of pheasant, {Rx} 48; ---- and HYDROGARUM, {Rx} 49; ---- + with broth, plain, {Rx} 52, 181 + + DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; ---- PERSICA, the best + sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, {Rx} 28 + + + E + + Early fruit, stewed, {Rx} 177 + + ECHINUS, sea-urchin, {Rx} 412-17 + + Economical methods: flavoring, {Rx} 15 + + EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton + + EDULA, chitterlings + + Eel, {Rx} 466-7 + + Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93 + + Eggs, {Rx} 326-28; ---- fried, {Rx} 336; ---- boiled, {Rx} 327; ---- + poached, {Rx} 328; ---- scrambled with fish and oysters, {Rx} 159 + + Eglantine, {Rx} 171 + + Egyptian Bean, {Rx} 322; also see CYAMUS + + EIERKAeSE, {Rx} 125, 301 + + ELAEOGARUM, {Rx} 33 + + Elderberry custard, {Rx} 135 + + ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. --US, --UM, boiled down, sodden, + reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as + it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; + ELIXATURA, a reduction + + EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it + additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, {Rx} 344 + + EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish "covered over"; a casserole of some + kind. E. BAIANUM, {Rx} 431 + + Endives, {Rx} 109 + + Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana + + Entrees, potted, {Rx} 54, 55; ---- sauces, {Rx} 56; ---- of fish, + poultry and sausage, {Rx} 139; ---- of fowl and livers, {Rx} 175 + + EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I + + Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273 + + ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant + + ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares + + ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat + + Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, {Rx} 338 + + ESCULENTES, things good to eat + + ESTRIX, she-glutton + + ESUS, eating + + Every Day Dishes, {Rx} 128, 142 + + EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235 + + Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234 + + EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats) + + + F + + FABA, bean, pulse. ---- AEGYPTIACA, {Rx} 322; ---- IN FRIXORIO, + string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTES; ---- + VITELLIANA, {Rx} 189, 193 + + FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, {Rx} 202; ---- FRICTAE, {Rx} 203; ---- + EX SINAPI, {Rx} 204 + + Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268 + + "Fakers" of manuscripts, p. 13 + + FALSCHER HASE, {Rx} 384 + + FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal + + Farce, forcemeat, {Rx} 131 + + FARCIMEN, sausage, {Rx} 62-64 + + FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten + + FARINA, meal, flour, {Rx} 173; --OSUS, mealy + + FARNEI FUNGI, {Rx} 309 + + FARRICA, {Rx} 173 + + FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, {Rx} 207 + + FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, + {Rx} 131 + + FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, {Rx} 166, + 366 + + FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff + the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, {Rx} 166, 366 + + FATTENING FOWL, {Rx} 166, 366 + + FENICOPTERO, IN, {Rx} 220, 231 + + FENICULUM, FOENI--, fennel + + FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN--; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, {Rx} 206 + + FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at + once, hence a course of dishes + + FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; ---- ASA FOETIDA, same as + LASERPITIUM + + FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, {Rx} 259-60 + + FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, {Rx} 132 + + FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig + + Field herbs, {Rx} 107; Field salad, {Rx} 110; a dish of field + vegetables, {Rx} 134 + + Fieldfare, a bird, {Rx} 497 + + Fig-fed pork, p. 285, {Rx} 259 + + Figpecker, a bird, {Rx} 132 + + Figs, to preserve, {Rx} 22 + + Filets Mignons, {Rx} 262 + + Filtering liquors, {Rx} 1 + + Financiere garniture, {Rx} 166, 378 + + Fine ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147 + + Fine spiced wine, {Rx} 1 + + Fish cookery, "The Fisherman," title of Book X; ---- boiled, {Rx} + 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; ---- fried, herb sauce, {Rx} 433; ---- to + preserve fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- with cold dressing, {Rx} 486; + ---- baked, {Rx} 476-7; ---- balls in wine sauce, {Rx} 145, 164; + ---- fond, {Rx} 155; a dish of any kind of ----, {Rx} 149, 150, 156; + ---- au gratin, {Rx} 143; ---- loaf, {Rx} 429; ---- liver pudding, + {Rx} 429; ---- pickled, spiced, marinated, {Rx} 480; ---- oysters + and eggs, {Rx} 157; ---- salt, any style, {Rx} 430, 431; ---- + stew, {Rx} 153, 432; ---- sauce, acid, {Rx} 38-9 + + FISKE BOLLER, {Rx} 145, 41, seq. + + Flaccus, a Roman, {Rx} 372 + + Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2 + + Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances + of careful flavoring, {Rx} 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, {Rx} + 385, seq. + + Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX + + FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms + + Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396; a man interested in raising + snails, dormice, etc., for the table + + FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA + stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182 + + FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. ---- NARDI, + several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the + Italian lavender + + FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, {Rx} 114, 121 + + Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34 + + Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, {Rx} 6, 7, 134, 147; + ---- displayed in Pompeii, p. 7 + + Forcemeats, {Rx} 42, 172 + + Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, {Rx} 470; ---- and livers, {Rx} 174; + various dishes and sauce, {Rx} 218, seq. Picking ----, {Rx} 233; + Removing disagreeable odors from ----, {Rx} 229-30 + + French Dressing, {Rx} 112 + + French Toast, {Rx} 296 + + FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355, + 366; cf. SARTAGO + + FRICTELLA, fritter; "A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT"--Platina. + Ger. "Frikadellen" for meat balls fried in the pan. "De OFFELLIS, + QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE"--Platina + + FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan + + FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, {Rx} 131 + + FRITTO MISTO (It.), {Rx} 46 + + Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, {Rx} 42, seq. + + FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some + confusion in the several editions + + Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156 + + Fronto, a Roman, {Rx} 246, 374 + + FRUGES, farinaceous dishes + + Fruit dishes, {Rx} 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; ---- dried, Summary, p. 370 + ---- Bowl illustration, pp. 61, 125 + + FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley + + Frying, {Rx} 42, seq. + + Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO + + Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana + + FUNGUS, mushroom; --ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS ---- FARNEI, {Rx} + 309, seq. + + FURCA, a two-pronged fork; --ULA, --ILLA (dim.) a small fork. + FUSCINA, --ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. "Forks and Fingerbowls + as Milestones in Human Progress," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and + The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87 + + FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2 + + + G + + Galen, writer, {Rx} 396, 410 + + GALLINA, hen; --ULA, little hen; --ARIUS, poulterer + + GALLUS, cock + + Game of all kinds, sauce for, {Rx} 349 + ---- birds, {Rx} 218, seq. + + GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, {Rx} 153 + + GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see + + Gardener, The--Title of Book III, {Rx} 377 + + GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber + or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22, + {Rx} 10, 33, 471 + + Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for + the making of G. + + G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny + and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines + were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up + controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the "vile + concoctions," but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to + its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for + instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, + principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to + ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are + the most nutritious portions of fish + + G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is + not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject + to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to + adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of + much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became + entirely lost in the subsequent variations + + In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM + ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her + disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had + to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass + of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a + fish sauce, etc. + + ---- SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind + of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM G. + mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed + with vinegar + + GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made + + GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly + GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: "QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS"--Platina + + Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257 + + Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261 + + Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see + Schola Apitiana, p. 206 + + GETHYUM, --ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion + + Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273 + + GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the "G" by + medieval scribes + + GINGIDON, --IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French + carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: "BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION + APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE," hence a chervil root, or + parsnip, or oysterplant + + GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc. + + Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 127 + + GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as + food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, {Rx} + 396 + + Gluttons, p. 11 + + Goat, wild, {Rx} 346, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-3 + + Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270 + + GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151 + + Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, {Rx} 228 + + Grapes, to keep, {Rx} 19 + + Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq. + ---- Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8 + + Greek monographs, p. 43 + + Green beans, p. 247, {Rx} 202, 206 + + Greens, green vegetables, {Rx} 99 + + Grimod de la Reyniere, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa + + Gruel, p. 210; {Rx} 172, 200-1, seq. ---- and wine, {Rx} 179-80 + + GRUS, crane; GRUEM, {Rx} 212-3; ---- EX RAPIS, {Rx} 215-6 + + Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263 + + Guegan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq. + + Guinea Hen, {Rx} 239, cf. "Turkey Origin," by the author, Hotel + Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, for February and March, 1935, + Chicago + + GULA, gluttony + + GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrees of a + meal, Hors d'oeuvres. Cf. CENA, {Rx} 174-77 + + + H + + Habs, R., writer, p. 18 + + HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, {Rx} 291-3, 355, seq. + ---- SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360; ---- PARTHICUM, {Rx} 364; ---- + TARPEIANUM, {Rx} 363; ---- LAUREATUM EX LACTE, {Rx} 365; + ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 496 + + HALEC, see ALEC + + HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356 + + Ham, fresh, p. 285, {Rx} 287-9 + + HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60 + + HAPANTAMYNOS, {Rx} 497 + + Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS + + Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, {Rx} 28 + + Hare, B. VIII, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- imitation, {Rx} 384; ---- + braised, {Rx} 382-3; ---- different dressings, {Rx} 383; ---- + Stuffed, {Rx} 384, 91; ---- white sauce for, {Rx} 385; ---- lights + of, {Rx} 386-7; ---- liver, {Rx} 170; ---- in its own broth, {Rx} + 388; ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389; ---- tidbits, kromeskis, + {Rx} 390; ---- boiled, {Rx} 393; ---- spiced sauce, {Rx} 393; + ---- sumptuous style, {Rx} 394; ---- spiced, {Rx} 395 + + Haricot of lamb, {Rx} 355 + + HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with + five or more prongs; hence "harpoon." Cf. FURCA + + "Haut-gout" in birds, to overcome it, {Rx} 229-30 + + Headcheese, {Rx} 125 + + Heathcock, {Rx} 218, seq. + + HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort + + Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11 + + HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint + + Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156 + + HERBAE RUSTICAE, {Rx} 107 + + Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, {Rx} 25 + + Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman + silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our + illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43 + + Hip, dog-briar, {Rx} 171 + + HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, {Rx} 229-30 + + Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396, who raised animals for + the table + + HISPANUM, see Oleum + + HOEDUS, see HAEDUS + + HOLERA, pot herbs, {Rx} 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS + + HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, {Rx} 99 + + Home-made sweets, {Rx} 294 + + Honey cakes, {Rx} 16 + + Honey Refresher, {Rx} 2; ---- cake, {Rx} 16; ---- to renew spoiled, + {Rx} 17; testing quality of, {Rx} 18; ---- pap, {Rx} 181; see also + Chap. XIII, Book VII + + Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, {Rx} 455 + + HORDEUM, barley + + Horned fish, {Rx} 442 + + Hors d'oeuvres, {Rx} 174; cf. GUSTUS + + HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, {Rx} 378 + + Horseradish, {Rx} 102 + + House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 + + Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, {Rx} 307; title page of his 1542 + edition, p. 265 + + Hunter style, {Rx} 263 + + HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and + water, {Rx} 172 + + HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third + + HYPOTRIMA, --IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of + many spiced things, {Rx} 35 + + HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, + {Rx} 41-56. The term "croquette" used by Gollmer does not fully + cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very + closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives + (which were for the servants' use in carving) were fond of such + preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The + reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat + H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of + their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. + As "predigested" food, such dishes are decided preferable to the + "_grosses-pieces_," which besides energetic mastication require + skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome + on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring "_grosses-pieces_" + do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is + probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA + + HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum + creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, {Rx} 29 + + + I + + IECUR, JECUR, liver; {Rx} 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) + liver + + Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19 + + Ill-smelling fish sauce, {Rx} 9; ditto birds, {Rx} 229-30 + + Indian peas, {Rx} 187 + + Ink-fish, {Rx} 405 + + INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for + roasts, {Rx} 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; --ARIUS, sausage maker + + INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., + is dipped. See EMBAMMA, {Rx} 344 + + INTUBUS, INTYBUS, --UM, chicory, succory, endive, {Rx} 109 + + INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort + + ISICIA, see HYSITIA, {Rx} 41-54, 145 + ---- AMULATA AB AHENO, {Rx} 54; ---- DE CAMMARIS, {Rx} 43; ---- DE + CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 45; ---- DE LOLLIGINE, {Rx} 42; ---- DE SPONDYLIS, + {Rx} 46; ---- DE PULLO, {Rx} 50; ---- DE SCILLIS, {Rx} 43; ---- + HYDROGARATA, {Rx} 49; ---- PLENA, {Rx} 48; ---- SIMPLEX, {Rx} 52; + ---- DE TURSIONE, {Rx} 145 + + Italian Salad, {Rx} 123 + + IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, + soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, + the diminutive of I. + ---- DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the + genuineness of the Apicius text, {Rx} 153; ---- IN DIVERSIS + AVIBUS, {Rx} 210-228; ---- IN ELIXAM, {Rx} 271-7; ---- IN + VENATIONIBUS, {Rx} 349, seq. ---- DIABOTANON, {Rx} 432; ---- IN + PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433-6; ---- ALEXANDRINUM, {Rx} 437-9; ---- + CONGRO, {Rx} 440; ---- IN CORNUTAM, {Rx} 441; ---- IN MULLOS, + {Rx} 442-3; ---- PELAMYDE, {Rx} 444; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 446; + ---- IN MURENA, {Rx} 448, 449-52; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 454; + ---- IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, {Rx} 455; ---- PISCE ASSO, {Rx} 456; + ---- THYNNO, {Rx} 457; ---- ELIXO, {Rx} 458; ---- IN DENTICE + ASSO, {Rx} 459-60; ---- IN PISCE AURATA, {Rx} 461-2; ---- IN + SCORPIONE, {Rx} 463; ---- PISCE OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5; ---- + ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466-7 + + + J + + Jardiniere, {Rx} 378 + + JECINORA, {Rx} 291 + + Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, {Rx} 205 + + Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261 + + John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel + + Julian Meal Mush, {Rx} 178 + + + K + + Keeping meat and fish, {Rx} 10-14, seq. + + Kettner, writer, p. 38 + + Kid, p. 314, {Rx} 355, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-93; ---- stew, {Rx} + 355-8; ---- roast, {Rx} 359-62; ---- boned, {Rx} 360-1; ---- + Tarpeius, {Rx} 363-4; ---- Prize, {Rx} 365; ---- plain, {Rx} 366; + ---- laser, {Rx} 496 + + Kidney beans, {Rx} 207-8 + + King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267 + + Kromeskis, {Rx} 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA + + Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser + + + L + + Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24 + + LAC, milk; ---- FISSILE, cottage cheese + + LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, {Rx} 147, 152, 455-7 + + LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; --IUS, dairyman + + LACTES, small guts, chitterlings + + LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, {Rx} 105, 109-11 + + LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and + oil, a pan cake + + LAGENA, --ONA, --OENA, --UNA, flask, bottle + + Lamb, {Rx} 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see + + Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on "The Porker's Last Will," {Rx} 376 + + Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30 + + Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41 + --see also Tacuinus + --facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232 + + Langoust, {Rx} 485 + + LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, {Rx} 455 + + LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, {Rx} 26 + + Larding, {Rx} 394 + + LARIDUM, LARDUM, {Rx} 147, 290; cf. SALSUM + + LASER, LASERPITIUM, --ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by + that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some + agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities + deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the + best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center + picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. + Med. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how + King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away + in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It + was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for + that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was + probably exterminated + + There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed + without additional information + + {Rx} 15, 31, 32, 34, 100; p. 22 + + Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, {Rx} 15 + + LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM + + Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page + + LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in + quality, {Rx} 365, 373 + + LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; ---- NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf + + La Varenne, French cook, p. 16 + + Laws, sumptuary, p. 25, {Rx} 166 + + Laxatives, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34 + + Leeks, p. 188, {Rx} 93-6; ---- and beans, {Rx} 96 + + LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, + etc., Book V + + LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, {Rx} 183-4 + + LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress + + LEPOREM MADIDUM, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- FARSUM, {Rx} 384; ---- + PASSENIANUM, {Rx} 389; ---- ISICIATUM, {Rx} 390; ---- FARSILEM, {Rx} + 391; ---- ELIXIUM, {Rx} 392; ---- SICCO SPARSUM, {Rx} 394; ---- + LEPORIS CONDITURA, {Rx} 393-5 + + LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping + hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, {Rx} 382-395 + + Lettuce, B. V, {Rx} 105, 109-111; ---- and endives, {Rx} 109; ---- + puree of, {Rx} 130 + + LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile + + LEUCOZOMUS, "creamed," prepared with milk, {Rx} 250 + + Lex Fannia, {Rx} 166 + + Liaison, lie, {Rx} 54; cf. AMYLARE + + LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, {Rx} 251 + + LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. "lb." still in use); LIBRAE, balances, + scales + + LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum + + LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with + garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc. + + LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370 + + LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. + It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, + marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest + sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term + has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see {Rx} 9, 42 + + Liquids, Summary of, p. 370 + ---- thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, + cf. AMYLARE + + Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, + verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice + ---- quoted in many foot notes, {Rx} 8, seq. + ---- assailing Torinus, p. 13, {Rx} 15, 26, 100, 205 + ---- edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250 + + Liver kromeskis, {Rx} 44; fig-fed, of pig, {Rx} 259-60; ---- and + lungs, {Rx} 291-3; ---- hash, {Rx} 293; ---- of fish, see GARUM and + Pollio + + Lobster, {Rx} 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways + + LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; + {Rx} 397-402, 485; ---- ASSAE, {Rx} 398; ---- ELIXAE, {Rx} 399, 401-2 + + Loins, p. 285, {Rx} 286 + + LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 405 + + LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this + grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some + narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent + researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious + qualities. Apicius, {Rx} 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS + + LONGANO, a blood sausage, {Rx} 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE + TARENTINO in {Rx} 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork + sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says + they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage + called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the + Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they + were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a + stir, politically. Lister, {Rx} 50, p. 119, describes the sausage + and calls the inhabitants of Tarent "most voluptuous, soft and + delicate" because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent + + This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact + with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of + cookery than the North + + Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, + p. 172, {Rx} 61; see also LONGANO + + LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; + Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA + + Lucretian Dish, {Rx} 151 + + Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here + because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he + discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in + the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C. + + LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA + + LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), {Rx} 286; LUMBELLI, {Rx} 255 + + Lung, {Rx} 291-2 + + LUPINUS, lupine + + LUPUS, fish, {Rx} 158 + + + M + + MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher + + MACELLUM, market + + MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food + thus treated + + MACTRA, trough for kneading dough + + MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS + + MALABATHRUM --THRON, {Rx} 32, 399 + + Mallows, {Rx} 86 + + MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; ---- PUNICORUM, pomegranate; ---- + ASSYRIA, ---- CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; ---- + MEDICA, citron tree; ---- CYDONIA, quince tree + + MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, + lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. {Rx} + 18, 20. See also CITRUM + + It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons + and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that + are so indispensable to modern cookery + + MALUM PUNICUM, {Rx} 20, 21; ---- CYDONIUM, {Rx} 21; ---- GRANATUM, + {Rx} 20; ---- MEDICUM, {Rx} 24; ---- ROSEUM, {Rx} 178, 171. This name, + which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, + has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. + Today a certain red-colored apple is known as "Roman Beauty." We + concur in Schuch's opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of + the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into + dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite + possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose + + MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton + + MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to + Quintil. 1, 5, 57 + + Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin + or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and + hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of + infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. + Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to + give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius + attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own + slaves to wait on them at their Host's party. This custom and the + individual napkin habit have survived until after the French + revolution. Grimod de la Reyniere, in his Almanach des Gourmands, + Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins + and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited + + This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility + and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On + the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by + the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering + facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age + + Marcellus, a Roman physician, {Rx} 29 + + Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and + liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days + and to impart to it a special flavor, {Rx} 11, 236, 244, 394; cf. + EMBAMMA + + MARJORANA, marjoram + + Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342 + + MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound + + Martial, writer, p. 10, {Rx} 307, 461 (on bulbs) + + Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents + of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, + Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell'arte culinaria + Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935 + + Mason, Mrs., a writer, {Rx} 126 + + MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the + mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with + M. + + Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, + {Rx} 167; apples named after him, _ibid._ + + MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, {Rx} 126, 480 + + Meal mush, Book V, {Rx} 178 + + Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in + Apicius + PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS + CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1-1/2 pt. English) + SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX + SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS + HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA + ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms) + CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup) + COCHLEAR I equal 1/4 CYATHUS (a spoonful) + COTULA, COTYLA, same as HEMINA, same as 1/2 SEXTARIUS + QUARTARIUS I equal 1/4 pint + + Meat ball, {Rx} 261, seq. ---- with laser, {Rx} 472-3; meat, boiled, + stewed, {Rx} 271; keeping of, {Rx} 10, 13; how to make pickled meat + sweet, {Rx} 12; to decorate or garnish, {Rx} 394, (see marinade); meat + pudding, {Rx} 42; ---- loaf, {Rx} 384, 172 + + Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient ---- diet, p. 31; ancient + ---- supply, p. 31 + + Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31 + + Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31 + + Medicinal formulae in Apicius, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70, + 71, 108, 111, 307 + + MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with + honey, same as ginger, or fruit glace + + Medlar, {Rx} 159; see MESPILA + + Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266 + + MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey + ---- PRAVUM, {Rx} 15; ---- PROBANDUM, {Rx} 16; ---- ET CASEUM, + {Rx} 303 + + MELCAE, {Rx} 294, 303 + + MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: "Turkey Origin," Hotel Bulletin and + The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935 + + MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, {Rx} 2 + + MELO, small melon, B. III, {Rx} 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon + + Melon, {Rx} 85 + + MENSA, repast, see CENA + + MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; ---- PIPERITA, peppermint + + "Menu," cf. Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. 235 + + Merling, see MERULA + + MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. LUCIUS, a fish called merling, whiting, also + smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the + blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. "There is little food + value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia," says + he. Perhaps because the bird is "black," {Rx} 419 + + MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, "mere," "merely"; hence MERUM VINUM, + ---- OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc. + + MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL + + Milan edition, Colophon, p. 260 + + Milk Toast, {Rx} 171 + + Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. 60 + + Minced dishes, Book II + + Mineral salts in vegetables, {Rx} 71, 96 + + MINUTAL, a "small" dish, a "minutely" cut mince; ---- MARINUM, {Rx} + 164; ---- TARENTINUM, {Rx} 165; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 166; ---- + MATIANUM, {Rx} 167; ---- DULCE, {Rx} 168; ---- EX PRAECOQUIS, {Rx} + 169; ---- LEPORINUM, {Rx} 170; ---- EX ROSIS, {Rx} 171; ---- of + large fruits, {Rx} 169 + + MITULIS, IN, {Rx} 418 + + Mixing bowls, see Crater + + Monk's Rhubarb, {Rx} 26 + + "Monkey," {Rx} 55 + + Moralists, ancient, see Review + + MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, + etc., cf. {Rx} 38 + + Morsels, {Rx} 261, seq., 309, seq. + + MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, {Rx} 38, 221 + + MORUS, mulberry; ---- ALBA, white m. ---- NIGRA, black m. Platina, + DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of + ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the + Egyptian girl, {Rx} 24 + + Moulds, {Rx} 384, 126 + + MUGIL, sea-mullet, {Rx} 159, 419, 424, 425 + + Mulberries, {Rx} 24 + + Mullet, see MULLUS, {Rx} 148, 428, 443-4 + + MULLUS, the fish mullet, {Rx} 148, 427, 442, 443, 482-4 + + MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; ---- ACETUM, honey-vinegar + + Munich Ms. XVIII Apiciana + + MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. 356, {Rx} 448-53, 484 + + MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish + + MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. 22, {Rx} 30; cf. ALEC + + Mush, {Rx} 178 + + Mushrooms, B. III, {Rx} 121, 309-14; ---- Omelette, {Rx} 314 + + Muskrat, {Rx} 396 + + Mussels, {Rx} 418 + + MUSTEIS PETASONEM, {Rx} 289 + + MUSTEOS AFROS, {Rx} 295 + + MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; ---- VINUM, must, new wine; ---- OLEI, + new oil + + MYRISTICA, nutmeg + + MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine + + MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called "pepper" and so used instead of + pepper + + MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice + + + N + + NAPKINS, individual, see MAPPA + + NAPUS, p. 188, a turnip, navew, {Rx} 100-1 + + NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see FOLIUM + + NASTURTIUM, the herb cress + + NECHON, {Rx} 16 + + Neck, roast, {Rx} 270 + + NEPATA, cat-mint; ---- MONTANA, mountain mint; see MENTHA + + Nero, emperor, p. 11 + + Nettles, {Rx} 108 + + New York codex, No. I, Apiciana + + Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. 8, p. 268 + + NITRIUM, {Rx} 66 + + Nonnus, writer, {Rx} 307, 396 + + NOVENDIALES, see CENA + + NUCEA LASERIS, {Rx} 16; also see LASER + + NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, {Rx} 92 + + NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of + meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, + Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. + NOISETTE + + NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, guinea hen, which see + + Nut custard, turn-over, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- porridge, {Rx} 297-9; + ---- pudding, {Rx} 298, 299, 230; ---- meal mush, {Rx} 300 + + Nuts, Summary of, p. 236 + + NUX, p. 236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; ---- JUGLANDIS, + walnut; ---- PINEIS, ---- PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; ---- MUSCATA, + nutmeg + + + O + + OBLIGABIS, {Rx} 83; also see AMYLARE + + OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a + dinner; from the Greek, OPSON + + OBSONATOR, steward + + OBSONIUM, OP--, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread + + OCIMUM, --YMUM, --UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of + clover + + OENOGARUM, wine and GARUM (which see), a wine sauce, {Rx} 33, 146, + 465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O. + + OENOMELI, wine and honey + + OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer's place, who, however, did a + retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular + wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced + wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in + antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its + specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment + + OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81 + + OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a "Hamburger Steak," + a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, + collop, also various other "dainty" dishes, consisting principally + of meat + + "INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT"--Cato; the ancient equivalent + for our "'twixt cup and lip there is many a slip" + {Rx} 261; ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 262; ---- APRUGNEA MORE, {Rx} 263; + ---- ALIAE, {Rx} 264-5; ---- LASERATA, {Rx} 271; ---- GARATAS, + {Rx} 471-74; ---- ASSAS, {Rx} 472, 473 + + Oil substitute, {Rx} 9; ---- oil, to clarify for frying {Rx} 250 + ---- Liburnian, {Rx} 7 + + OLEUM, oil, olive oil; ---- LIBURNICUM, {Rx} 7; HISPANUM, Spanish + olive oil + OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, 103; ---- MOLLE, + vegetables strained, a puree, {Rx} 103-106; also HOLUS, etc. + + OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, {Rx} 99; see OLUS + + OLIVA, olive, {Rx} 30, 91; to keep olives green, {Rx} 30 + + OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also CACCABUS. OLLULA, a + small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, "rotten pot" + + OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, + OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage, + from OLITOR, the truck farmer, {Rx} 25, 67, 99, 103 + OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, {Rx} + + OLUSATRUM, see OLUS + + Omelette with sardines, {Rx} 146; ---- with mushrooms, {Rx} 314; + ---- Soufflee, {Rx} 302 + + OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to + wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, {Rx} 43, 47 + + Onions, {Rx} 304-8 + + OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover + + Opossum, {Rx} 396 + + ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; ---- origany; ---- VINUM, wine + flavored with O. + + ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see RISUM + + OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of Book V + + Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, {Rx} 261, are + the ancient "Hamburgers"; this seems to confirm the assumption that + the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls + + OSTREA, oyster, {Rx} 15, 410; --RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place + for keeping oysters + + Ostrich, {Rx} 210-11 + + Oval pan, illustration, p. 159 + + Oval service dish, p. 43 + + Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 + + OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, {Rx} 348-50 + + OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, {Rx} 302 + + OXALIS, sorrel + + OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine + + Oxford Mss., Apiciana X, XI + + OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive + + OXYGALA, curdled with curds + + OXYGARUM, vinegar and GARUM, which see, {Rx} 36, 37 + + OXYPORUS, easily digested, {Rx} 34 + + OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc. + + Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, {Rx} 41 + + Oysters, how to keep, {Rx} 14, 410, 411 + ---- shipped by Apicius, p. 10 + + + P + + PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf. CEPA + + Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. 158 + + PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots + + PALUMBA, wood pigeon, {Rx} 220 + + Pan with decorated handle, p. 73 + + Panada, {Rx} 127 + + PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice like + LASER and FERULA + + PANDECTES, --ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of Book IV + + PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, {Rx} 126 + + Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. 155, 159 + + Pap, {Rx} 172-3, 182 + + PAPAVER, poppy-seed; ---- FICI, fig-seed + + PARADOXON, CONDITUM, {Rx} 1 + + Parboiling, {Rx} 119 + + Paris Mss., Apiciana III, IV + + Parrot, {Rx} 231-2 + + Parsnips, {Rx} 121-3 + + PARTHIA, {Rx} 191, 237, 364; a country of Asia + + Partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499 + + Passenius, --anus, an unidentified Roman, {Rx} 389 + + PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which Platina does not + recommend for the table + + PASSUM, raisin wine + + PASTINACA, --CEA, parsnip, carrot, {Rx} 121-3; also a fish, the + sting-ray + + Pastry, absent, p. 43 + + PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, + corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense + it is often confused with PATINA, which see, so that it has become + difficult to distinguish between the two terms + ---- THIROTARICA, {Rx} 144; ---- ARIDA, {Rx} 145; ---- EX + OLISATRO, {Rx} 145a; ---- SICCA, {Rx} 145 + + PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells + dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf. PATINARIUS + + PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also food, eating, a dish, + or cookery in general in which sense it corresponds to our + "cuisine" + + PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also + the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as + the scullion who washes them + + PATINA APICIANA, {Rx} 141; ---- APUA, {Rx} 138-9, 146; ---- DE + ASPARAGIS, {Rx} 132-33; ---- DE CYDONIIS, {Rx} 163; ---- EX LACTE, + {Rx} 140; ---- EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 147; ---- FRISILIS, + {Rx} 131; ---- EX RUSTICIS, {Rx} 134; ---- DE ROSIS, {Rx} 136; + ---- DE LACERTIS, {Rx} 152; ---- DE LUPO, {Rx} 158; ---- DE + PERSICIS, {Rx} 160; ---- EX URTICA, {Rx} 162; ---- EX SOLEIS, + {Rx} 154; ---- EX PISCIBUS, {Rx} 155-7, 486; ---- MULLIS, {Rx} 148; + ---- QUIBUSLIBET, {Rx} 149; ---- ALIA PISCIUM, {Rx} 150; ---- + SOLEARUM EX OVIS, {Rx} 487; ---- QUOTIDIANA, {Rx} 122, 142; ---- + VERSATILIS, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- ZOMORE, {Rx} 153; ---- DE PIRIS, + {Rx} 161; ---- DE SORBIS, {Rx} 159; ---- DE SAMBUCO, {Rx} 135; + ---- DE CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 137 + + PAVO, peacock, {Rx} 54 + + Peaches, a dish of, {Rx} 160 + + Peacock, Book VI, {Rx} 54 + + Pears, {Rx} 22, 161 + + Peas, p. 247, {Rx} 185-6, 190-2; ---- a tempting dish of, {Rx} 192; + ---- Indian, {Rx} 187; ---- puree of peas, cold, {Rx} 188; ---- or + beans a la Vitellius, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- in the pod, Apician style, + {Rx} 194-6; ---- in the pod a la Commodus, {Rx} 197; puree of peas + with brains and chicken, {Rx} 198 + + PECTINE, scallop, {Rx} 52 + + Peeling young vegetables, {Rx} 69 + + PELAMIS, young tunny, {Rx} 426, 444 + + Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. 17, 18, 257-58 + + PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, {Rx} 85 + + Pepper, {Rx} 1; ---- for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq. + + PERCA, perch, {Rx} 446 + + Perch, {Rx} 446 + + PERDICE, IN, {Rx} 218 + + PERDRIX, partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499 + + PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, {Rx} 287, 288 + ---- APRUGNA, {Rx} 338 + + PERSICUM, peach, {Rx} 29, 160; --US, peach-tree + + Persons named in recipes, pp. 11, 21 + + PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, {Rx} 289 + + Petits pois a la francaise, {Rx} 185 + + Petits sales, {Rx} 41, 147, 149, 150, 151 + + Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. 3, 7, 11, 15 + + PETROSELINUM, parsley + + PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, {Rx} 197 + + PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and + pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, {Rx} + 207 + + PHASIANUS, pheasant; --ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises + pheasants, game-keeper, {Rx} 49, p. 265 + + Pheasant, dumplings of, {Rx} 48; -- plumage as decoration, {Rx} 213 + + Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana I + + PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2 + + Picentinian bread, {Rx} 126 + + Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. 257-8, Apiciana, Nos. 21-22, p. 272 + + Picking birds, {Rx} 233 + + Pie chimneys, {Rx} 141 + + Pig, see PORCELLUM + + PIPER, pepper; ---- NIGRUM, black p.; ---- VIRIDUM, green p., {Rx} + 134; "pepper" for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq. --ATUS, + prepared with p. + + PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum + + PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping or "peeping" sounds + made by them; ---- EXOSSATUS, boned squab + + PIRUM, pear, {Rx} 160-1 + + PISA, --UM, peas, pea, {Rx} 185, seq., 190-2, 195-8; ---- FARSILIS, + {Rx} 186; ---- INDICAM, {Rx} 187; ---- FRIGIDA, {Rx} 188; --M + VITELLIANAM, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- ADULTERAM, {Rx} 192 + + PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman + household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand + + PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, {Rx} 476-7; ---- SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, + {Rx} 475; ---- ASSOS, {Rx} 478; ---- OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81; ---- + IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, {Rx} 486; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433, 434, + 435, 436, 454; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 461; ---- ASSA, {Rx} 462; ---- + OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5 + + PISTACIUM, --EUM, pistache + + PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see COQUUS + + Pitch, for sealing of vessels, {Rx} 25 + + PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake + + Plaster in bread, p. 39 + ---- for sealing of pots, {Rx} 23 + + Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. 8, 9, 19, Apiciana No. 6, + and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery + book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by + J. D. Vehling. Cf. Cibarium, Cornum, Corvus, Frictella, Merula, + Morus, Passer, Ranae, Risum, Sturnus, Styrio, Thinca, Thymus, + Zanzerella + + Plato, writer, p. 12 + + Platters, Roast, p. 219; Athene, p. 158 + + Plautus, writer, p. 147; ---- naming cooks, {Rx} 484; Plautian + Latinity, {Rx} 153 + + Pliny, writer, p. 31, {Rx} 307, 396, 410 + + Plumage of birds as a decoration, {Rx} 213 + + Plums, {Rx} 22 + + Plutarch, writer, pp. 3, 66, 128 + + Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. 20 + + POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort + + POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, {Rx} 178 + + Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, {Rx} 484 + + POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody + + POLYPUS, the fish polypus, {Rx} 410 + + POLYTELES, POLI--, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; "Recherche" food; + Title of Book VII + + Pomegranates, to keep, {Rx} 20 + + Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. 2 + ---- destroyed, p. 3, seq. + ---- Wine Room, illustration, p. 124 + + Pompeii, city, description of, see Review. Innkeeper at ---- + advertising ham, {Rx} 287; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., + see list of illustrations + + POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, + dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf. MALUM, p. 370 + + PONTUS, Black Sea Region + + PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, PORCELLINUS, young + s., pig, {Rx} 336-81, 488-94; ---- PORCELLUM FARSILEM, {Rx} 366, + 367; ---- ASSUM, {Rx} 369; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 368; ---- APICIANUM, + {Rx} 370; ---- VITELLIANUM, {Rx} 371; ---- LAUREATUM, {Rx} 373; ---- + FRONTINIANUM, {Rx} 374; ---- CELSINIANUM, {Rx} 376, 377; ---- + HORTULANUM, {Rx} 378; ---- ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, {Rx} 379; ---- + TRAIANUM, {Rx} 380; ---- CORIANDRATUM, {Rx} 488; ---- FLACCIANUM, + {Rx} 372; ---- OENOCOCTUM, {Rx} 489; ---- EO IURE, {Rx} 490; ---- + THYMO SPARSUM, {Rx} 491; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 492; ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} + 493; ---- IUSCELLATUM, {Rx} 494; ---- ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, {Rx} 369; + ---- LACTE PASTUM, {Rx} 370; ---- IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, {Rx} 381 + + Pork, p. 285; ---- and onions a la Lucretius, {Rx} 151; ---- skin, + cracklings, {Rx} 251-55; ---- udder, {Rx} 251; ---- tenderloin, {Rx} + 251-255; ---- tails and feet, {Rx} 251; ---- fig-fed, {Rx} 259; ---- + cutlets, Hunter Style, {Rx} 263; ---- paunch, {Rx} 285; ---- loin + and kidneys, {Rx} 286; ---- shoulder, {Rx} 287-88; ---- fresh ham, + {Rx} 289; ---- bacon, {Rx} 290; ---- Salt ---- {Rx} 290; ---- + forcemeat, {Rx} 366 + + Porker, The ----'s Last Will and Testament, {Rx} 376 + + Porridge, Books IV, V, {Rx} 172, 178; ---- and wine sauce, {Rx} 179; + ---- another, {Rx} 180 + + PORRUM, --US, leek, {Rx} 93, 96; "SECTILE ----"--Martial + + PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane + + POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an + acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs + and water + + Pot Roast, {Rx} 270 + + Potherbs, to keep, {Rx} 25, 188, see OLUS + + Potted Entrees, {Rx} 54 + + POTUS, drink + + PRAECOQUO, --OCTUS, --OCIA, "cooked beforehand," also ripened too + early, but the present kitchen term is "blanching," or "parboiling." + Cf. PRAEDURO + + PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, {Rx} 119 + + Preserves, several in Book I + + Preserving (keeping of) meats, {Rx} 10-12; ---- fried fish, {Rx} 13; + ---- fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., {Rx} 19-24, 28, 29, 30; ---- + grapes, {Rx} 19; ---- honey cakes, {Rx} 16; ---- mulberries, {Rx} + 24; ---- oysters, {Rx} 14; ---- pomegranates, {Rx} 20; ---- pot + herbs, {Rx} 25; ---- quinces, {Rx} 21; ---- sorrel, sour dock, {Rx} + 26; ---- citron, {Rx} 23; ---- truffles, {Rx} 27; ---- vegetable + puree, {Rx} 106 + + Press, wine illustration, p. 92 + + Processing, {Rx} 19-24 + + PRUNA, live, burning coal + + PRUNUM, plum; ---- DAMASCENUM, p. from Damascus, {Rx} 22; this + variety came dried, resembling our large prunes. ---- SILVESTRIS, + sloe berry, which by culture and pruning has become the ancestor of + plums, etc. + + PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice broth, a gruel, {Rx} + 173-3, 200-1; ---- TARICHA, {Rx} 173 + + Pudding, {Rx} 60 + + PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, + chicken, {Rx} 51, 2-7, 213, 235-6, seq.; ---- RAPTUS, note 1, {Rx} + 140 + + PULLUM PARTHICUM, {Rx} 237; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 238; ---- NUMIDICUM, + {Rx} 239; ---- LASERATUM, {Rx} 240; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 242; ---- CUM + CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 243; ---- CUM COLOCASIIS, {Rx} 244; ---- VARDANUM, + {Rx} 245; ---- FRONTONIANUM, {Rx} 246; ---- TRACTOGALATUM, {Rx} 247; + ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 248; LEUCOZOMUM, {Rx} 250 + + PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a + dish composed of these ingredients, {Rx} 67-71 + + PULMO, lung, {Rx} 29 + + PULPA, --MENTUM, {Rx} 42, 134; also PULMENTUM + + PULS, --E, PULTICULUM, Books IV, V, a porridge, polenta, {Rx} 178, + seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, {Rx} 178; ---- OENOCOCTI, {Rx} 179; ---- + TRACTOGALATAE, {Rx} 181 + + PULTARIUS, a bowl, a "cereal" dish, {Rx} 104 + + Pumpkin, B. III, {Rx} 73-80; ---- pie, {Rx} 137; ---- fritters, {Rx} + 176; ---- like dasheens, {Rx} 74; ---- Alexandrine Style, {Rx} 75; + ---- boiled, {Rx} 76; ---- fried, {Rx} 77; ---- 78; ---- mashed, + {Rx} 79; ---- and chicken, {Rx} 80 + + Puree of lettuce, {Rx} 130 + + PYRETHRUM, --ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory + + + Q + + QUARTARIUS, a measure (which see), 1/4 pint + + Quenelles, {Rx} 131 + + Quinces, {Rx} 21, 162 + + + R + + Rabbit, {Rx} 54 + + Radishes, {Rx} 102 + + Ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147; ---- financiere, {Rx} 166 + + RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p. 343, {Rx} 403-4; + Raie au beurre noir, {Rx} 404 + + Raisins, {Rx} 30 + + RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for ages. Platina gives + fine directions for their preparation. He recommends only frogs + living in the water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, UT NOXIAS + REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR + + Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in + oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, + our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do + different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a + startling stroke of genius + + Rankin, E. M., writer, see COQUUS + + RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, {Rx} 26, 100-1 + + RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, {Rx} 102 + + Ray, fish, {Rx} 403-4 + + RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up + + Redsnapper, {Rx} 448 + + Reduction, {Rx} 145, 168 + + Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, {Rx} 170, 166 + + Relishes, {Rx} 174-5 + + RENES, {Rx} 286 + + Reyniere, Grimod de la ---- writer, p. 3, see MAPPA + + RHOMBUS, fish, turbot + + RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt + + RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is used by Platina who says: + "RISUM, QUOD EGO ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM PUTO." This is + one of the many philologically interesting instances found in + Platina and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from the antique to + the medieval Latin and finally emerging into modern Italian. What + better proof, if necessary, could be desired than this etymology for + the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its age could be proven by a + philologist if no other proof were at hand + + Roasts, Roasting, p. 285, {Rx} 266-70 + + Roman Beauty Apple, {Rx} 136 + ---- excesses, p. 15 + + Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. 182 + ---- economic conditions, p. 15 + + Roman Vermouth, {Rx} 3 + + ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; ---- VINUM, rose wine, {Rx} + 4-6; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6 + + Rose pie, see MALUM ROSEUM, also {Rx} 136, 171 + ---- custard, {Rx} 136; ---- pudding, {Rx} 136; ---- apple, {Rx} 136 + + Rose wine, {Rx} 4-6 + + ROSMARINUS, rosemary + + Round sausage, {Rx} 65 + + Roux, {Rx} 172, see AMYLARE + + RUBELLIO, fish, {Rx} 447 + + RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot + + RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk's rhubarb, {Rx} 24 + + Rumohr, B., writer, pp. 3, 18 + + Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. Styrio + + RUTA, rue; ---- HORTENSIS, garden r.; ---- SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; ---- + RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its + stimulating properties + + Rye, {Rx} 99 + + + S + + SABUCO, see SAMBUCO + + SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from the joints of the bamboo + or sugar cane, coming from India, hence called "Indian Salt." It was + very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally used in place of + sugar. Only occasionally a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome + from India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise cane and + beet sugar was unknown in ancient times. Any kind of sweets, + therefore, was considered a luxury + + SAL, salt. Laxative salt, {Rx} 29; "For many ills," _ibid._ + + Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. 38 + + SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, "salt" food boiled in the "caccabus," + {Rx} 125-7, 468-70 + + Salad, {Rx} 109-11; ---- dressing, {Rx} 112-3; Italian ---- {Rx} 122 + + Salcisse, {Rx} 41 + + SALINUM, salt cellar + + Salmasius, Codex of ----, see Apiciana, III + + SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish + + SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, {Rx} 381 + + Salsicium, {Rx} 41 + + SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; {Rx} 10, 41, 147, + 149, 150, 428, seq.; ---- CRUDUM, {Rx} 151, cf. petits sales + + Salt, laxative, {Rx} 29; "for many ills," _ibid._; ---- meat, to + make sweet, {Rx} 12; ---- fish, {Rx} 144, seq., 427, seq.; ---- + balls, {Rx} 145 + + SALVIA, SALVUS, sage + + SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; {Rx} 135 + + Sanitary measures, see MAPPA + + SAPA, new wine boiled down + + SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; ---- ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared + rose flavor + + SARCOPTES, title of Book II + + SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, {Rx} 146, 419, 420, + 480; ---- CONDITAE, {Rx} 480; SARDAM FARSILEM, {Rx} 419; ---- + Sardine omelette, {Rx} 146 + + Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. 7 + + SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, of bronze or of iron; + some were equipped with hinged handles, to facilitate packing or + storing away in small places, in soldiers' knapsack, or to save + space in the pantry. This, as well as the extension handle of some + ancient dippers are ingenious features of ancient kitchen utensils. + See also FRICTORIUM, and the illustrations of pans, pp. 155, 159 + + SATUREIA, savory, satury + + Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. 155, 159, 73, 231 + + Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. 22, 24, 26, 27; ---- for + roasts, {Rx} 267-70; ---- for partridge, {Rx} 499; ---- crane and + duck, {Rx} 215; ---- for fowl, {Rx} 218-28 + + Sauces. Bread Sauce, {Rx} 274; Brine, {Rx} 284; ---- for broiled + fish, Alexandrine style, {Rx} 437-39; ---- for boiled fish, {Rx} + 433-6, 454; ---- for broiled mullet, {Rx} 442-3; ---- boiled meats, + {Rx} 271-3; ---- for roasts, {Rx} 267, seq.; English ----, {Rx} 267; + ---- for broiled murenas, {Rx} 448-51; Dill ----, {Rx} 283; Herb + ---- for fried fish, {Rx} 432; ---- for Horned fish, {Rx} 441; ---- + for lacertus, {Rx} 455-7; ---- perch, {Rx} 446; ---- redsnapper, + {Rx} 447; ---- dory, {Rx} 461-2; ---- for suckling pig, {Rx} 379; + ---- young tunny, {Rx} 444-5, 459; ---- for tooth-fish, {Rx} 460-1, + 486; ---- shellfish, {Rx} 397; ---- for venison, {Rx} 339, 349; ---- + for wild sheep or lamb, {Rx} 350; White ----, {Rx} 276, 277; Wine + ---- for fish, {Rx} 464; Tasty ---- for conger, {Rx} 441; ---- for + tidbits, {Rx} 276-82; ---- for sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463; ---- for eel, + {Rx} 440, 466-7 + + Saucisse, {Rx} 41 + + Sauerbraten-Einlage, {Rx} 11 + + Sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 41, 45, 60-65, 139, 165 + + Savonarola, Michaele, p. 273 + + Scalding poultry, {Rx} 233 + + Scallops, {Rx} 46 + + SCANDIUS, chervil + + SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish + + SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos. 21, 22, 23, facsimile, p. 206 + + Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. 16-17, p. 34, 25, 270 seq. + + Science confirming ancient methods, p. 32 + + SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, {Rx} 43, 485 + + SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463, 475 + + SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. + Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. Coquus + + SCRUPULUM, SCRI--, a weight, which see + + Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, {Rx} 23, 25 + + Sea Barb, {Rx} 482-3; ---- Bass, {Rx} 158, 447; ---- Eel, {Rx} 484; + ---- food, p. 343; ---- stew, Baian style, {Rx} 432; ---- mullet, + {Rx} 157; ---- nettles, {Rx} 162; ---- perch, {Rx} 447; ---- pike, + {Rx} 158; ---- urchin, {Rx} 413-4; ---- scorpion, {Rx} 475 + + Sea-scorpion with turnips, {Rx} 475 + + Sea water, {Rx} 8 + + Seasoning, see flavoring + + Secrecy in recipes, pp. 29, 30 + + Seeds, Summary of, p. 236 + + SEL, see SIL + + SEMINIBUS, DE, p. 236 + + Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. 3, 11, 15 + + SEPIA, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 406-9 + + SERPYLLUM, wild thyme + + Service berry, {Rx} 159 + ---- pan with decorated handle, illustration, p. 73 + ---- dish for eggs, p. 93 + + SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn + + SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin + + SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb + + SEXTARIUS, a measure, which see, {Rx} 1 + + Sforza Ms. Apiciana XIII + + Shellfish, {Rx} 397, 412 + + Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. 125 + + Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. 273 + + Shore Dinner, {Rx} 46 + + Sicardus Ms. Apiciana XIV + + Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. 258, seq., also see Tacuinus + + Signerre, Colophon, p. 260 + + SIL, see SESELIS + + SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat + + SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk + + SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as LASERPITIUM, which see, {Rx} 32 + + SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, + also called the horn-pout, or catfish, {Rx} 426 + + SIMILA, --AGO, fine wheat flour + + SINAPIS, mustard + + "_Singe_," {Rx} 55 + + SION, --UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip + + SISYMBRIUM, water cress + + SITULA, hot water kettle + + Skate, {Rx} 403-4 + + Slang in ancient text, p. 19 + + Slaughter, cruel methods of, {Rx} 259, 260 + + Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. 60 + + Sloe, see PRUNUM + + Smelts, {Rx} 138-39 + + SMYRNION, --UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander + + Snails, {Rx} 323-5 + + Soda, use of ---- to keep vegetables green, {Rx} 66 + + Soft cabbage, {Rx} 103-6 + + SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, {Rx} 154, 487; SOLEARUM PATINA, _ibid._ + + SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any + liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a + sherbet, Fr. SORBET + + Sorrel, {Rx} 26 + + Sour Dock, {Rx} 26 + + Soups, {Rx} 178, seq. + + Sow's womb, matrix, udder, belly, {Rx} 59, 172, 251-8 + + Soyer, Alexis, chef, 35 + + Sparrow, see PASSER + + Spaetzli, {Rx} 247 + + Spelt, {Rx} 58-9 + + Spengler, O., writer, p. 17 + + SPICA, a "spike," ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, + SPICA NARDI + + Spiced Fruit, {Rx} 177 + + Spices, Summary of, pp. 234-5; spicing, ancient and modern, {Rx} 15, + 276-77, 385, seq. + + Spiny lobster, {Rx} 54, 485 + + Spoiling, to prevent food from--see Book I, and Preserving, to + prevent birds from spoiling, {Rx} 229-30, 233 + + SPONDYLIUM, --ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, or all-heal. Also + called SPHONDYLIUM and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this term + is very easily confused with the foregoing, a mistake, which was + made by Humelbergius and upheld by Lister and others. For comparison + see {Rx} 46, 115-21, 183, 309, 431 + + SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, + scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the + scallop, {Rx} 46 + + SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and + grown close together + + SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf. + SPONDYLIUM and notes pertaining thereto + + Sprats, {Rx} 138-9 + + Sprouts, cabbage ----, {Rx} 89-92 + + Squab, {Rx} 218-27, cf. Pipio + + Squash, {Rx} 73-80 + + Squill, {Rx} 485 + + Squirrel, {Rx} 396 + + Stag, {Rx} 339-45 + + Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., {Rx} 50 + + Starr, Frederick, see introduction + + STATERAE, steelyards for measuring + + Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273 + + Stewed Lacertus, {Rx} 152; ---- meats, p. 285, {Rx} 356, seq. + + Stewpots, illustrated, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235 + + String beans and chick-peas, {Rx} 209 + + STRUTHIO, ostrich, {Rx} 210-11 + + Studemund, W., writer, p. 19 + + Stuffed pumpkin fritters, {Rx} 176; ---- chicken or pig, {Rx} 199; + ---- boned kid or lamb, {Rx} 360 + + STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its meat as unfit, + likewise that of the blackbird (cf. MERULA); he pronounces their + flesh to be "devilish." "STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM CARNEM HABERE + DICIMUS." Yet three-hundred years later, French authorities + recommend this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle Maison Rustique, + Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. + "After a month [of forced feeding] they will be nice and fat and + good to eat and to sell; there are persons who live of this trade." + He praises the crow similarly + + These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of + the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day + but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the + following notes to STYRIO tend to show how far advanced was Platina + in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th + century in France + + STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, {Rx} 145, sturgeon; probably the same fish + as known to the ancients as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO + TEREDEQUE--Stephanus a Schonevelde, in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). + There can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is meant by this + term, for Platina calls the eggs of the fish "caviare." "OVA + STIRIONIS CONDITUM QUOD CAUARE UOCANT." Eloquently he describes his + struggle with the changing language. The efforts of this + conscientious man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no matter + how trivial they may appear, are highly praiseworthy + + He writes "DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS N{=U}C MIHI VIDEOR, + QUANDO HOR{=U}, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCI{=U}, NULLUS + CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM + & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUAM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS + NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS + INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE." + + As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own + modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: "SALEM + INDERE MEMENTO!--don't forget the salt!" + + Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. + Beauvilliers, in his L'Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this + "ragout" as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading + restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save Careme, the + best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls "Kavia." + Says he: "LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L'ACHETENT FORT CHER + [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE + RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU' AUX RUSSES--this stew, according + to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled + thereabouts." + + Shakespeare, in speaking about "Caviare to the General" apparently + was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian + authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the + famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la Reyniere, Paris, 1803, + seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare + + A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in "Ein + new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587" on + verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare + and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The + HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the + best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most + thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every + respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for + Hungarian gentlemen + + "... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FUeR EINEN + VNGERISCHEN HERRN." + + SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork + + SUCCUM, SUCUM, {Rx} 172, 200 + + Suckling Pig, see PORCELLUS + + Sugar and pork, {Rx} 151; use of ---- in ancient Rome, see SACCARUM + + Suidas, writer, p. 11 + + SUMEN, {Rx} 257; ---- PLENUM, {Rx} 258 + + Sumptuary laws, p. 25, {Rx} 166 + + Sumptuous dishes, {Rx} 285 + + Sweet dishes, home-made, {Rx} 294-6 + + Sweet MINUTAL, {Rx} 168 + + SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360 + + + T + + TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. 138; ---- round, _id._, p. 122 + + Tacuinus, editor-printer, p. 258; quoted in recipes 8 seq.; Facs. of + Title Page, 1503, p. 262; Facs. of opening chapter, p. 232 + + TAMNIS, --US, TAMINIUS, wild grape + + TANACETUM, tansy + + Taranto, Tarentum, city, {Rx} 165; --ian sausage, {Rx} 140; ---- + Minutal, {Rx} 165; see also LONGANO + + Taricho, Tarichea, town, {Rx} 427, seq. + + Taro, dasheen, {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244, 322; see COLOCASIA + + Tarpeius, a Roman, {Rx} 363 + + TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; + Ger. TIEGEL + + Tempting Dish of Peas, A ----, {Rx} 192 + + TERENTINA, {Rx} 338 + + Tertullian, writer, p. 3 + + TESTA, --U, --UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole + + TESTICULA CAPONUM, {Rx} 166 + + TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as + good eating + + TETRAPES, --US, four-footed animals; title of Book VIII + + TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, or a dish consisting of + four meats. In modern language, a "Mixed Grill," a "Fritto Misto," a + "Shore-Dinner" + + THALASSA, the sea; title of Book IX, treating of fish + + Theban ounce, {Rx} 3 + + THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks + + THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, + illustrations, pp. 72, 90 + + THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) "OLIM MENAM APPELLATAM + CREDIDERIM"--Platina + + Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. 18 + + THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary + (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, {Rx} 60 + + Thrush, p. 265, {Rx} 497 + + THYMBRIA, savory; see SISYMBRIUM, SATUREIA and CUNILA; also see + THYMUS + + THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS and THYMBRIA with such a + love and beauty that we cannot help but bestow upon him the laurels + worn by the more well-known poets who became justly famous for + extolling the fragrance of less useful plants such as roses and + violets + + THYNNUS, tunny-fish, {Rx} 426, 457-8 + + Tidbits, p. 285, {Rx} 261, seq.; ---- of lamb or kid, {Rx} 355 + + TISANA, see PTISANA, {Rx} 172-3, 200-1 + + Title pages, Venice, 1503, 262; Lyons, p. 263; Zuerich, p. 265; + London, p. 267 + + Toasting, {Rx} 129 + + Tooth-fish, {Rx} 157 + + Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of + 1541, text, p. 14 + ---- quoted, {Rx} 1, 2, 8, seq., assailed by Lister, see L. + ---- facsimile of Title page 1541, p. 220 + + TORPEDO, --IN, --INE, {Rx} 403-4 + + TORTA, cake, tart; ---- ALBA, cheese cake + + Toulouse garnish, compared, {Rx} 378 + + TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, + spaetzli, etc.); ---- PULLUS, a young chicken pie + + TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey paste; a gingerbread or + honeybread composition + + TRACTUM, {Rx} 181 + + Traianus, a Roman, {Rx} 380; also Traganus, Trajanus + + Traube, writer, p. 19 + + Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose "Banquet" is + the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately + exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp. 8, 11 + + Tripod, illustration, p. 40 + + TRITICUM, --EUS, --INUS, wheat, of wheat + + TROPHETES, erroneously for AEROPTES, Gr. for fowl, title of Book VI + + Truffles, {Rx} 27, 33, 315-321, 333; cf. TUBERA + + TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle + + TUBERA, "tubers"; TUBER CIBARIUM, ---- TERRAE, truffle, a fungus, + mushroom growing underground, {Rx} 27, 35, 315, seq., 321; T. + CYCLAMINOS, "sow-bread," because swine, being very fond of T. dig + them up. The truffle defies cultivation, grows wild and today is + still being "hunted" by the aid of swine and dogs that are guided by + its matchless aroma + + TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert made of prunes + + Tunny, fish, {Rx} 427, 458, 459; Baby, {Rx} 420, 424, 425, 426; + Salt, {Rx} 427 + + TURDUS, thrush, {Rx} 497 + + Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See Guinea Hen and Meleagris + + Turnips, {Rx} 100, 101 + + Turnover dish, {Rx} 129 + + TURTUR, "turtle" dove, {Rx} 218, seq., 498; ---- ILLA, young t., an + endearing term + + TURSIO, TH--, {Rx} 145 + + TYROPATINA, {Rx} 301 + + TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, eggs, + spices--ingredients resembling our "Long Island Rabbit," {Rx} 137, + 143, 180, 439; see TARICA, {Rx} 144, 428 + + + U + + UDDER, {Rx} 251 + + UNCIA, ounce, equals 1/12 lb.; also inch, -/12 + + UNGELLAE, {Rx} 251-5 foot + + Urbino, Duke of, p. 269 + + URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; --ULA, small vessel; also a liquid + measure, containing half of an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve + SEXTARII; see measures + + URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, {Rx} 108, 162 + + U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, {Rx} 322 + + UVA, grape, {Rx} 19; Uvam passam Phariam, {Rx} 97 + + + V + + Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. 3, 8 + + Vanilla, {Rx} 15 + + VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. 12 + + Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family name, {Rx} 245 + + Varro, a writer, {Rx} 70, 307, 396, p. 21 + + VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; --CULUM, a small v.; ---- + VITREUM, glass v., {Rx} 23 + + Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. 13 + + Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. 254, seq., Incipit facsimile, p. 253 + + Veal Steak, p. 314, {Rx} 351, 2; ---- Fricassee, {Rx} 353, 4 + + Vegetable Dinner, {Rx} 67-9, 71, 145, 188; ---- puree, {Rx} 103-6; + ---- peeling of young v., {Rx} 66; to keep v. green, {Rx} 67, 188; + ---- and brain pudding, {Rx} 131 + + Vehling, J. D., see Introduction; V. collection, p. 257 + + VENERIS OSTIUM, {Rx} 307 + + Venison, {Rx} 339-45 + + VENTREM, AD ----, {Rx} 68, 69, 70, 71; --ICULUM, {Rx} 285 + + VERMICULI, "little worms," noodles, vermicelli + + Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different kinds of, {Rx} 3, + seq. + + VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton + + VESTINUS, see Caseus, {Rx} 126 + + Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. 18 + + VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch + + VICTUS, way of life, diet; ---- TENUIS, reduced diet + + Vinaigrette, {Rx} 113, 336, 341 + + Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. 12, 21, 234 + + VINUM, wine; ---- CANDIDUM FACIES, {Rx} 8; many technical terms are + given to wines, according to their qualities, such as ALBUM, + CONDITUM, FUSCUM, NIGRUM, LIMPIDUM, ATRUM, DURUM, FULVUM, SANGUINEM, + RUBENS, FIERI, BONUM, DULCE SUAVUM, FIRMUM, SALUBRE, DILUTUM, + VAPIDUM, etc. These, as our modern terms, are employed to designate + the "bouquet," color and other characteristics of wine. Then there + are the names of the different brands coming from different parts, + too numerous to mention. Furthermore there are wines of grapes, old + and new, plain or distilled, raw or cooked, pure and diluted, + natural or flavored, and the many different drinks made of grape + wine with herbs and spices + + V. NIGRUM, "black wine," may be muddy wine in need of clarification; + there is some slight doubt about this point. It appears that the + vintner of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy stuff upon + his customers than his colleague of today who is very much + restricted by law and guided by his reputation + + VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling grape wine, any + home-made wine fermented or fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, ---- + PALMEUM, ---- EX CAROTIS, ---- EX MILII SEMINE, ---- EX LOTO, ---- + EX FICO, ---- EX PUNCICIS, ---- EX CORNIS, ---- EX MESPILIS, ---- EX + SORBIS, ---- EX MORIS, ---- EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, ---- EX PIRIS, ---- + EX MALIS, (cf. Pliny), resembling our cider, perry, berry wines and + other drink or liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds + + VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, {Rx} 5, are laxatives; ---- ORIGANUM is wine + flavored with origany; etc., etc. + + It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew the art of + distillation to the extent as perfected by the Arabs centuries later + and brought to higher perfection by the medical men and alchymists + of the middle ages + + Violet Wine, {Rx} 5 + + Virility, supposed stimulants for, {Rx} 307, 410 + + VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, {Rx} 351-4 + + Vitellius, emperor, p. 11, {Rx} 189, 193, 317 + + VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young calf. "Calf's + sweetbreads"--Danneil + + Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. 21, 23, 27, pp. 13, + 18, 19, 273 + + Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. 266 + + VULVA, sow's matrix, womb; --ULA, small v., {Rx} 59, 251-54, 256. + Was considered a delicacy. Pliny, Martial and Plutarch wrote at + length on the subject. The humane Plutarch tells of revolting detail + in connection with the slaughter of swine in order to obtain just + the kind of V. that was considered the best + + Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, 54; Plutarch's essay on + flesh eating, Martial, Ep. XII, 56 and VII, 19 + + + W + + WEIGHTS. LIBRAE, scale, balance. LIBRA--pound--lb--12 ounces, + equivalent to one AS + UNCIA, an ounce, properly the twelfth part of any unit, also any + small bit + SCRIPULUM, or SCRU--, 1 scruple, 288 to 1 lb. + SELIBRA for SEMILIBRA, half a pound + Theban ounce, cf. {Rx} 3 + + Weighing fluids, {Rx} 471 + + Welsh rabbit, see ZANZERELLA + + Whiting, {Rx} 419 + + Wild Boar, {Rx} 329, seq., 338; ---- sheep, {Rx} 348; ---- goat, + {Rx} 346, seq. + + Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. Preface, p. 37; cf. Apiciana + I, pp. 254, 257; cf. Garum + + Wine, fine spiced, {Rx} 1; Rose, {Rx} 4; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6; + ---- Violet, {Rx} 5; ---- To clarify muddy, {Rx} 8; ---- New--boiled + down, DEFRITUM, {Rx} 21; ---- sauce for truffles, {Rx} 33; ---- + Palm, {Rx} 35; ---- of Carica figs, {Rx} 55; ---- sauce for fig-fed + pork, {Rx} 259, 260; ---- fish, {Rx} 479; cf. VINUM + + Wine pitcher, illustration, p. 208; ---- press, illustration, p. 92; + ---- storage room in Pompeii, illustration, p. 124; ---- Dipper, p. 3; + ---- Crater, p. 140 + + Wolf, Rebekka, writer, {Rx} 205, seq. + + Woodcock, {Rx} 218, seq. + + Wood-pigeon, {Rx} 218, seq. + + Wooley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 52 + + Writers, ancient, on food, pp. 3, 4 + + + Y + + YEAST, {Rx} 16 + + Young cabbage, p. 188, {Rx} 87 + + + Z + + ZAMPINO, {Rx} 338 + + ZANZERELLA, a "Welsh rabbit." "CIBARIUM QUOD VULGO ZANZERELLAS + UOCANT"--Platina + + ZEMA, ZU--, ZY--, a cook pot for general use + + ZINZIGER, GINGIBER, ginger; the latter is the better spelling + + ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, ZOMOTEGANITE--a dish of fish + boiled in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, + {Rx} 153. The GANON, --A, --ITE, is the name of an unidentified + fish, the supposed principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. + Oenoteganon + + +[End of Index and Vocabulary] + +[_INDICIS FINIS_] + + + + +ADDENDA + + +Description of Commentaries + +APICIANA NOS. 30-31, A.D., 1935-36 + +J. SVENNUNG: UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZU PALLADIUS UND ZUR LATEINISCHEN FACH- +UND VOLKSSPRACHE. + +"Skrifter utgivna med understoed av Vilhelm Ekmans universitets-fond, +Uppsala," tom. 44, (Uppsala, 1935) + +and + +DE LOCIS NON NULLIS APICIANIS SCRIPSIT J. SVENNUNG. + +(Saertryck ur Eranos vol. XXXIV) Gotoburgi 1936. Typis descr. Elanders +Boktr. A.-B. + + [Through the good offices of Dr. Edwardt Brandt, of + Munich, the above two commentaries on Apicius were + received in the last moment, thanks to the courtesy of + the author, Lekto J. Svennung, of Uppsala, Sweden. The + first study is a critique of technical terms and + colloquialisms as found in Palladius, touching + frequently upon Apicius, published in 1935 at Uppsala by + the Vilhelm Ekman University Foundation and the other is + a reprint of an article on a number of Apician formulae + from Eranos, Vol. XXXIV, published at Gothenburg, 1936, + by Elander, Ltd. + + J. D. V., Chicago, November 30th, 1936.] + +{Illustration: (Squib on the margin of an ancient manuscript in the +Monastery of St. Gallen, Switzerland)} + +{Transcription: + + LIBRO COMPLETO... + SALTAT SCRIPTOR + PEDE LAETO......} + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Minor punctuation errors have been repaired. Amendments have been made +only where there was a clear error, where there was a definite +inconsistency within the text, or where it was impossible to find a +reliable source of the original spelling, as follows: + + Page vii--FRONTISPIECE amended to FRONTISPICE--"13 + FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition ..." + + Page 5--predeliction amended to predilection--"... nor + did he indulge in that predilection for ugly detail ..." + + Page 9--Minturae amended to Minturnae--"... living chiefly + at Minturnae, a city of Campania, ..." + + Page 11--departmentized amended to + departmentalized--"... were departmentalized to an + astonishing degree ..." + + Page 11--indispensible amended to indispensable--"These + indispensable books are simply wanting in our book ..." + + Page 15--Pommerania amended to Pomerania--"... Sweden, + Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania still observes + Apicius rules ..." + + Page 20--fallability amended to fallibility--"... how + each new copy by virtue of human fallibility or + self-sufficiency ..." + + Page 22--salt amended to salted--"The fish, intestines + and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, + strained and bottled ..." + + Page 23--an amended to a--"May it be a sturdy one, and + let its owner beware." + + Page 24--prodiguous amended to prodigious--"His culinary + procedures required a prodigious amount of labor ..." + + Page 26--insiduousness amended to insidiousness--"Even + the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness + of spicy delights ..." + + Page 27--appeite amended to appetite--"... having our + appetite aroused at the very perusal ..." + + Page 28--devine amended to divine--"... the experienced + practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, + ..." + + Page 32--compote amended to compote--"... oyster + cocktail, poultry and compote, goose with apple ..." + + Page 36--mummyfied amended to mummified--"... that + Apicius is not a mummified, bone-dry classic ..." + + Page 58--EPIMLES amended to EPIMELES--"_EXPLICIT APICII + EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS_" + + Page 64--feasable amended to feasible--"... such as we + here suggest would be entirely feasible ..." + + Page 70--CIRELLOS amended to CIRCELLOS--"[65] ROUND + SAUSAGE _CIRCELLOS ISICIATOS_" + + Page 77--popularily amended to popularly--"... chestnuts + and potatoes, popularly known as "Chinese potatoes" ..." + + Page 89--acccordance amended to accordance--"... + Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice." + + Page 89--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in + recipe 121. + + Page 89--114 amended to 115 (twice)--"... (Cf. {Rx} No. + 115) ..." and "... _Spondyli uel fonduli_ ({Rx} Nos. + 115-121) does belong to Book II ..." + + Page 96--Carthusians amended to Carthusian--"... those + delightful creations by the Carthusian monks ..." + + Page 102--act amended to fact--"... a fashion which, as + a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, ..." + + Page 110--glace amended to glace--"... the _{oe}nogarum_ + taking the place of our meat glace." + + Page 110--vexacious amended to vexatious--"Another + interpretation of this vexatious formula ..." + + Page 116--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... + both of which are indispensable to modern cookery." + + Page 117--166 amended to 165--"* Cf. {Rx} No. 165." + + Page 122--illustrations amended to illustration--"This + is a good illustration of and speaks well for ..." + + Page 129--forcements amended to forcemeats--"... any + fine forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings." + + Page 150--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. takes this + literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here ..." + + Page 151--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in + recipe 243. + + Page 154--APERATURE amended to APERTURE--"... EMPTY IT + THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK ..." + + Page 162--TID BITS amended to TID-BITS--"TID-BITS, + CHOPS, CUTLETS" + + Page 164--Worchestershire amended to Worcestershire--"... + some of the commercial sauces made principally in England + (Worcestershire, etc.), ..." + + Page 166--Gell. amended to Goll.--"... _Cupedia_ (Plaut. + and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, ..." + + Page 172--cates amended to cakes--"_Dulcia_, sweetmeats, + cakes; ..." + + Page 173--128 amended to 129 and 142 amended to 143--"... + or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of + {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143." + + Page 180--SNAIL amended to SNAILS--"THE SNAILS ARE FRIED + WITH PURE SALT AND OIL ..." + + Page 191--galatine amended to galantine--"We would call + this a galantine of lamb if such a dish ..." + + Page 193--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. thinks + _laureatus_ stands for the best, ..." + + Page 193--it's amended to its--"... it is possible that + the kid was cooked with its mother's own milk." + + Page 198--councellor amended to counsellor--"Celsinus + was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor." + + Page 204--EXLIXUM amended to ELIXUM--"ALITER LEPOREM + ELIXUM" + + Page 213--15 amended to 14--"[3] Cf. No. 14 for the + keeping of oysters." + + Page 228--2 amended to 3--"[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. + 448." + + Page 228--preceeds amended to precedes--"... this + formula precedes the above." + + Page 231--act amended to fact--"... as a matter of fact, + stands for pepper, ..." + + Page 236--CARDAMON amended to CARDAMOM--"... INDIAN + SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD." + + Page 236--FENNELL amended to FENNEL--"... CELERY SEED, + FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ..." + + Page 253--XVII amended to XVIII--"Munich, XVIII" + + Page 255--Cesna amended to Cesena--"Cesena, bibl. + municip., 14th century." + + Page 255--phases amended to phrases--"... and failed to + understand some phrases of it." + + Page 258--Pennel amended to Pennell--"The Pennell + collection was destroyed by a flood in London ..." + + Page 258--Epimelels amended to Epimeles--"... GRAECA AB + APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT || EPIMELES, ..." + + Page 277--Southerwood amended to + Southernwood--"ABROTANUM, ... or, according to most + Southernwood." + + Page 277--Attich amended to Attic--"... a small measure, + equivalent to 15 Attic drachms" + + Page 278--fewerfew amended to feverfew--"AMACARUS, + sweet-marjoram, feverfew" + + Page 279--Baracuda amended to Barracuda--"Barracuda, a + fish, {Rx} 158" + + Page 279--COLOSASIUM amended to COLOCASIUM--"Beans ... + ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM" + + Page 279--orrage amended to orage--"... the arrack or + orage, also spinach, according to ..." + + Page 279--omitted {Rx} added--"BUBULA, Beef, flesh of + oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352" + + Page 280--forno amended to Forno--"... with our + illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii ..." + + Page 280--Caviar amended to Caviare--"Caviare, see + STYRIO" + + Page 282--mussle amended to mussel--"... any hollow + vessel resembling a mussel shell ..." + + Page 283--maitre amended to maitre--"... to the PRINCEPS + COQUORUM, the "maitre d'hotel" of the establishment ..." + + Page 284--tumeric amended to turmeric--"CURCUMA + ZEODARIA, turmeric" + + Page 284--Destillation amended to Distillation and entry + moved to proper place in the Index--"Distillation, see + Vinum" + + Page 286--illustratios amended to illustrations--"... on + which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182" + + Page 287--Passianus amended to Passenianus--"Hare, ... + ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389 ..." + + Page 289--destillate amended to distillate--"... the + juice or distillate of the herb by that name, ..." + + Page 289--LIQORIBUS amended to LIQUORIBUS--"LIQUORIBUS, + DE, p. 370" + + Page 290--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... + grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable + ..." + + Page 290--dog-brier amended to dog-briar--"... namely + the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine is made into dainty + confections ..." + + Page 292--omitted page number added to entry for oval + pan--"Oval pan, illustration, p. 159" + + Page 294--forcement amended to forcemeat--"Pork ... ---- + forcemeat, {Rx} 366" + + Page 296--destillate amended to distillate--"... + distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, + ..." + + Page 297--SESESIL amended to SESELIS--"SESELIS, SEL, + SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin" + + Page 297--SISYMBRUM amended to SISYMBRIUM--"SISYMBRIUM, + water cress"--and entry moved from following entry for + SITULA to preceding it. + + Page 297--Sternajola amended to Sternajolo--"Sternajolo, + writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273" + + Page 299--omitted p. added--"Title pages, Venice, 1503, + p. 262; ..." + + Page 300--Rebecca amended to Rebekka--"Wolf, Rebekka, + writer, {Rx} 205, seq." + + Page 300--Wooley amended to Wolley, and entry moved to + correct place in index--"Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, + {Rx} 52" + +The following have also been noted: + + The author has consistently used minuscle rather than + minuscule when referring to manuscript. Since it appears + deliberate, it has been preserved as printed. + + Page 9 has a word obscured--"one of three known famous + ---- bearing that name". Another source of the text has + the word as 'eaters', so the same has been used here. + + Page 23 has a reference to a "modern" sauce, A I. There + were no obvious references to be found for a sauce of + that name, so it may be a typo for A1 sauce, which was + available at the time of writing. As there is no way to + be certain, however, it has been preserved as printed. + + Page 49--note to recipe 13 reads, "Exactly as we today + with fried herring and river lamprey". It is possible + that it should read "as we do today", but has been left + as printed. + + Page 151--recipe 241 has a note 1, but no marker in the + text. + + Page 166--recipe 275 has a marker for note 1, but no + note with that number. + + Page 172--Note 1 to recipe 294 reads "making it convenient + and unprofitable for the domestic cook"--this should + probably be read as "inconvenient and unprofitable", + but it has been left as printed. + + Page 175--recipe 305 has a marker for note 2, but no + note with that number. + + Page 189--recipe 351 has a marker for note 2, but no + note with that number. + + Page 211--recipe 405a has a marker for note 2, but no + note with that number. + + Page 226--there is no title for recipe 445. + + Page 230--there is no Latin translation provided for the + heading "EEL". + + Page 243--recipe 481 is titled "FISH STEWED IN WINE", + but does not mention wine anywhere in the recipe itself. + + Page 284--contained incorrectly placed index entries for + CLIBANUS, CNICOS and CNISSA (following COXA). These have + been moved to the correct place. + + Page 291--the index entry for Morsels also seems to have + had the recipe references (309, seq.) for Morels included; + this has been preserved as printed. + + Page 291--contained incorrectly placed index entry for + Mullet (following MUSTUM). This has been moved to the + correct place. + + Page 292--in the subentry for OLUS (OLUS AND CAULUS), + there is an {Rx} but no number. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKING IN IMPERIAL ROME *** + +***** This file should be named 29728.txt or 29728.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/7/2/29728/ + +Produced by David Starner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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