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diff --git a/29064-h/29064-h.htm b/29064-h/29064-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11ec4be --- /dev/null +++ b/29064-h/29064-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6017 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Boys' Book of Model Boats, by Raymond Francis Yates. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + img {border: 0;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + .frac {text-align: center; font-size: 70%;} + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + .copyright {text-align: center; font-size: 70%;} + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: justify;} + + .bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 70%;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .unindent {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + .right {text-align: right;} + .poem {margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .poem2 {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .sig {margin-right: 10%; text-align: right;} + .hang1 {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} + .cap:first-letter {float: left; clear: left; margin: -0.2em 0.1em 0; margin-top: 0%; + padding: 0; line-height: .75em; font-size: 300%; text-align: justify;} + .cap {text-align: justify;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Boys' Book of Model Boats, by Raymond Francis Yates + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Boys' Book of Model Boats + +Author: Raymond Francis Yates + +Release Date: June 7, 2009 [EBook #29064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' BOOK OF MODEL BOATS *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<h1>BOYS' BOOK</h1> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>MODEL BOATS</h1> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="front" id="front"></a> +<img src="images/i_005.jpg" width="500" height="286" alt="A TWO-FOOT STEAMBOAT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A TWO-FOOT STEAMBOAT<br />Making her way across the park pond. Ten miles an hour is a common speed for a boat of this type</span> +</div> + + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h1>BOYS' BOOK</h1> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>MODEL BOATS</h1> + +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>RAYMOND FRANCIS YATES</h2> + +<div class='center'> +WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> +FROM DRAWINGS AND<br /> +PHOTOGRAPHS<br /><br /><br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/i_006.png" width="150" height="146" alt="Emblem" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br /><br /><br /> +NEW YORK<br /> +THE CENTURY CO.<br /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class='copyright'> +Copyright, 1920, by<br /> +<span class="smcap">The Century Co.</span><br /> +<br /><br /><br /> +<span class="smcap">Printed in U. S. A.</span><br /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='center'> +TO<br /> +LAVERNE YATES<br /> +A BUILDER OF MODEL BOATS<br /> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<div class='unindent'><span class="smcap">Every</span> boy likes to build boats. The interest +in boats seems to be born in the race. The +little three-year-old chap is instinctively attracted +by a puddle of water in which to sail +his "boat," which may take the form of a +piece of shingle or common board. Few +men have passed through their boyhood +days without having built boats at some time.</div> + +<p>The author was an ardent boat-builder, +and he well remembers how he combed the +Children's Department of the local library +in search of a book that would tell him something +about boats, and especially for information +regarding the construction of +models. He found books on model airplanes, +toys, electricity, radio, and chemistry, +but alas! nothing about model boats. He +vowed then that when he became a man he +would write a book on model boats—a book +that would contain all the treasured information +he had accumulated during his boat-building +years.</p> + +<p>This book is the result of that vow, and +the author earnestly hopes that it will gladden +the heart of every boy who builds and +sails a boat. There are probably few happier +moments in a boy's life than when he +sees his little model steamer proudly make +her way across the park pond, or his little +sail-boat respond to the summer breeze.</p> + +<p>The author takes this opportunity to thank +his wife, who acted as his amanuensis in the +preparation of this manuscript.</p> + +<div class='sig'> +<span class="smcap">Raymond Francis Yates.</span><br /> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'><small>CHAPTER</small></td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>I</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Why a Boat Floats</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>II</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">The Hull</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>III</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">How to Make Simple Boats, with and without Power Drive</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IV</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Steam and Electric Propulsion</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>V</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">An Electric Launch</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VI</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">A Steam Launch</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VII</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">An Electrically Driven Lake Freighter</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VIII</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">An Electric Submarine-Chaser</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IX</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Boat Fittings</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>X</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">The Design of Model Steam-Engines</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XI</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">A Model Floating Dry-Dock</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XII</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Operation of Flash Steam Power Plants for Model Boats</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XIII</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Sailing Yachts</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XIV</td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Two-Foot Sailing Yacht</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'> <span class="smcap">Appendix</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_207">207</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'>A two-foot steam boat</td><td align='right'><a href="#front"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='right'><small>FACING<br />PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Getting ready for a trip</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>All ready to go</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A powerful gasolene blow-torch</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Just after the race</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A twin-cylinder steam engine for model marine use </td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A cup-winning model sail boat</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<h2>BOYS' BOOK<br /> +OF MODEL BOATS</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>WHY A BOAT FLOATS</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>BEFORE taking up the construction of +any of the model power boats described +in this book, it will be well for the +young boat-builder to become acquainted +with such terms as buoyancy, displacement, +center of gravity, etc. Knowledge of these +subjects is more or less necessary if successful +boats are to be made. Aside from this, +they are terms that every boy who claims an +interest in boats should understand.</div> + +<p>"How does a steel boat float?" is a question +that many boys ask. The reason they +usually designate a steel boat is probably because +steel is so much heavier than water. +But many things heavier than water can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +made to float if they are in the form of a +boat. Concrete, for instance, is now being +used in ship construction, and this substance, +when reinforced with steel rods, is +very much heavier than water.</p> + +<p>Before learning how a boat floats, what is +known as "specific gravity" must be thoroughly +understood. Gravity is a force that +is continuously "pulling" everything toward +the center of the earth. It is gravity that +gives a body "weight." Some substances +are heavier than others; or, to be more correct, +it is said that the specific gravity of one +substance is greater than that of another. +It will be well to keep in mind that specific +gravity merely refers to weight. It is +simply a scientific term. The specific gravity +of a substance is always expressed by a +figure that tells how much heavier any substance +is than water, because water has been +chosen as a standard.</p> + +<p>The specific gravity of water is 1. The +specific gravity of gold is 19.26, meaning that +it is about 19<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> times heavier than water. +The specific gravity of a piece of oak is 0.86, +which shows that it is not quite so heavy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +as water. One cubic foot of water weighs +62.42 pounds. It will be understood that a +cubic foot of gold would weight 19.26 x +62.42, because it is 19.26 times heavier than +water. A cubic foot of oak, however, would +weigh only 54 pounds, because it has been +found that it has a specific gravity of only +0.86 which is less than water.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;"><a name="fig_1" id="fig_1"></a> +<img src="images/i_020.png" width="350" height="303" alt="Fig. 1" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A cubic foot of oak (see <a href="#fig_1">Fig. 1</a>), with a +weight of 54 pounds, will float when placed +in water. The cubic foot of brass (<i>B</i>), however, +will not float, because it weights 8.1 +times as much as water. For the present, +then, it can be said that a substance lighter +than water will float in water, but that substances +heavier than water, such as iron, +lead, gold, silver, etc., will not float. If the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +cubic foot of oak (<i>A</i>) were placed in water, +it would sink to the depth shown at <i>C</i>. +When the block sinks into the water, a certain +amount of water will be forced away or +"displaced"; that is, the block in sinking occupies +a space that was previously occupied +or filled with water. The oak block sinks to +within a short distance of the top because the +oak is really just a trifle lighter than water. +If a pine block were placed in the water it +would sink only to the distance shown at <i>D</i>, +since the weight of pine is less than oak, or +only 34.6 pounds per cubic foot. A pine +block will, then, displace only about 34.6 +pounds of water, which leaves nearly half of +the block out of the water. Thus, it will be +seen that for a given volume (size) a cubic +foot of wood will sink to a depth corresponding +to its weight. Different kinds of wood +have different weights.</p> + +<p>If a cubic foot of brass is placed in water, +it will sink rapidly to the bottom, because the +brass is much heavier than water. How is +it, then, that an iron or concrete ship will +float? If the cubic foot of brass is rolled +or flattened out in a sheet, and formed or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +pressed into the shape of a boat hull, as +shown in <a href="#fig_2">Fig. 2</a>, it will float when placed +upon the surface of the water. Why is it +that brass is caused to float in this way, when +it sank so rapidly in the form of a solid +square?</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_2" id="fig_2"></a> +<img src="images/i_022.png" width="400" height="256" alt="Fig. 2" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>It will be remembered that the pine and +oak block were caused to float because they +displaced a greater weight of water than +their own weight. This is just what causes +the brass boat-hull to float. If the amount +of water actually displaced by the hull could +be weighed, it would be found that the weight +of the water would be greater than the +weight of the hull. It will be understood +that the space occupied by the brass boat-hull +is far greater than the space occupied by +the block of brass before it was rolled out +and formed into a hull. What is true of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +brass holds true of iron, steel, etc. A block +of steel will not float, because the water it +displaces does not weigh nearly as much as +the block. If this block, however, were +rolled out into a sheet and the sheet formed +into a hollow hull, the hull would float, because +it would displace a volume of water +that would more than total the weight of the +steel in the hull.</p> + +<p>In the case of the brass boat-hull, it would +be found that a greater portion of the hull +would remain out of the water. The hull, +then, could be loaded until the top of it came +within a safe distance from the water. As +the load is increased, the hull sinks deeper +and deeper. The capacity of big boats is +reckoned in tons. If a boat had a carrying +capacity of ten tons it would sink to what +is called its "load water-line" (L.W.L.) +when carrying ten tons. As a load or cargo +is removed from a vessel it rises out of the +water.</p> + +<p>What if the hull of a boat has a hole in +it? If the hole is below the water-line, +water will leak in and in time completely +fill the inside of the hull, causing the boat to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +sink. Also, if too great a load or cargo +were placed in a boat, it would sink. It +must be understood that water leaking into a +boat increases its load, and if it is not stopped +it will cause the boat to sink.</p> + +<p>The center of gravity of a boat is a very +important matter. First, attention will be +directed to the meaning of "center of gravity." +If a one-foot ruler is made to balance +(as shown in <a href="#fig_3">Fig. 3</a>) at the six-inch mark, +the point at which it balances will be very +close to the center of gravity. The real center, +however, will be in the middle of the +wood of which the rule is composed. It +should constantly be kept in mind that this +"center of gravity" is a purely imaginary +point.</p> + +<p>Look at <a href="#fig_4">Fig. 4</a>. If wires are arranged +in a wooden frame, as shown, the point +where the wires cross will be the center of +gravity if the square formed by the wooden +strips is solid. Every body, no matter what +its shape, has a center of gravity. The center +of gravity is really an imaginary point +in a body, at the center of its mass. Oftentimes +engineers are heard saying that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +center of gravity of a certain object is too +high or too low. <a href="#fig_5">Fig. 5</a> shows the center of +gravity in a boat. If the center of gravity +in a boat is too high (as illustrated in <a href="#fig_6">Fig. 6</a>) +the boat is said to be topheavy and unsafe. +When a boat is topheavy or its center +of gravity is too high, the boat is liable to +capsize. In fact, some very serious marine +accidents have been caused by this fault.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_3" id="fig_3"></a><a name="fig_4" id="fig_4"></a><a name="fig_5" id="fig_5"></a><a name="fig_6" id="fig_6"></a> +<img src="images/i_025.png" width="550" height="418" alt="Fig. 4" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>The center of gravity (or center of +weight) in a boat should be as low as possible. +A boat with a low center of gravity +will be very stable in the water and difficult<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +to capsize. This is true of model boats just +as much as it is true of large boats. The +model boat builder must keep the weight of +his boat as near the bottom as possible. For +instance, if a heavy cabin were built on a +frail little hull, the boat would be very unstable +and would probably capsize easily.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>THE HULL</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>MODEL boat-hulls are generally made +by one of two methods. One method +is that of cutting the hull from a solid piece +of wood. The other method is commonly +known as the "bread-and-butter" system. +The hull is built up of planks laid on top one +of another with marine glue spread between +them. The last-mentioned method +(which shall hereafter be called the built-up +method) possesses many advantages over the +first.</div> + +<p>Cutting a model boat-hull from a solid +piece of wood is by no means a simple or easy +task, especially for beginners. Of course, +after several hulls have been produced in +this fashion, the worker becomes practised in +cutting them out.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a><a name="fig_8" id="fig_8"></a> +<img src="images/i_028.png" width="550" height="569" alt="Fig. 7" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>The construction of hulls on the built-up +principle will be described first. For the sake<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +of convenience, the drawings of the boat-hull +shown in <a href="#fig_7">Figs. 7</a> and <a href="#fig_8">8</a> will be followed out. +Before going further it will be well to understand +drawings of boat-hulls; that is, how to +know the lines of a boat from a drawing. +By the "lines" is meant its shape. Marine +architects employ a regular method in drawing +boat-hulls. <a href="#fig_7">Fig. 7</a> shows the side of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +boat and half of the deck plan. It will be +seen that this drawing does not tell much +about the real shape of the boat, and if a hull +were to be produced according to the shape +given, the builder would have to use his own +judgment as to the outline of the hull at different +places. For convenience, the boat is +divided into ten sections, represented by the +lines 0 to 10. It will be seen that the shape +of the hull at section 2 will be different from +the shape of the hull at section 8. Again, +section 0 will be much narrower than section +5.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 143px;"><a name="fig_9" id="fig_9"></a> +<img src="images/i_030a.png" width="143" height="300" alt="Fig. 9" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Now look at <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a>. Note the shape of the +cross-section of the hull at the different sections. +For instance, the line at section 1 +in <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> represents the shape of the hull at +section 1 in <a href="#fig_7">Fig. 7</a>. It must be remembered, +however, that this is only half of the section, +and that the line 1 in <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> would have to +be duplicated by another line to show the +true shape. The cross-section of the boat at +section 0 is shown in <a href="#fig_9">Fig. 9</a>. One half of +the drawing in <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> represents the forward +half of the hull, and the other half +represents the stern half of the hull. If the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +shape of the boat at section 10 is desired, the +line 10 in <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> could be traced on a piece +of tissue paper. The paper could +then be folded in half and the line +first made traced on the second +half. This would then produce +the section of the boat at point 10. +Thus, by closely examining <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> + the shape of the entire hull can +be seen.</p> + + +<p>If pieces of wire could be used to form +the lines of the hull at the various sections, +it would appear as shown in <a href="#fig_10">Fig. 10</a> when assembled.</p> + +<p>Notice that in <a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a> there is a load water-line,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +which the vessel sinks to when loaded, +and the second and first load water-line, +which the vessel sinks to when only partially +loaded or when carrying no load aside from +its regular necessary equipment. The keel +line of the boat is the line that runs along the +bottom from bow to stern. (The bow of the +boat is the front and the stern the back.)</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_10" id="fig_10"></a> +<img src="images/i_030b.png" width="400" height="252" alt="Fig. 10" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Motor-boating and marine magazines +often publish the lines of different boats, and +if the young boat-builder understands how to +read boat drawings he will be able to make +a model of any boat that is so described.</p> + +<p>Directions will now be given regarding +the method of producing a boat-hull similar +to the lines shown in <a href="#fig_7">Figs. 7</a> and <a href="#fig_8">8</a>, by the +built-up method of construction.</p> + +<p>First, it will be necessary to procure the +lumber. Several clean white pine boards +will be very suitable to work with, and will +not require much skill in handling. Let us +assume that the boat-hull is to measure 22 +inches in length, with a depth of 4 inches. +The beam, which is the width of the boat at +its widest point, will be 5 inches. (It will be +well to remember what the term "beam"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +means, since the term will be used constantly +throughout the book.)</p> + +<p>On a piece of heavy wrapping-paper +draw the deck plan full size, that is, 22 inches +long by 5 inches at its widest point. Next +cut out along the pencil line with a pair of +shears. Now lay the paper outline on a +plank and mark out the pattern on the wood. +Repeat this process with three more planks. +When this is done, cut out the boards with +a keyhole saw.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;"><a name="fig_11" id="fig_11"></a> +<img src="images/i_032.png" width="380" height="94" alt="Fig. 11" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>After the boards are cut out mark them +as shown in <a href="#fig_11">Fig. 11</a>. The space marked +out on the board must be sawed out in two +of the boards, to form the inside of the hull, +if the boat is to carry some form of power, +such as a battery-motor, or steam-engine. +After the lines are marked out, make a hole +with a <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch bit, as shown in <a href="#fig_12">Fig. 12</a>. Insert +the point of the keyhole saw in one of +these holes to start it and cut out the piece.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +Treat the second board in the same way. +The third board must have a smaller portion +cut out of the center, owing to the fact that +this board is nearer the bottom of the hull, +where the width of the boat is narrower. +The width of the piece cut out in the third +board should not be more than 2 inches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;"><a name="fig_12" id="fig_12"></a> +<img src="images/i_033.png" width="375" height="125" alt="Fig. 12" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>When this work is done, a very thin layer +of glue is placed over the boards, and they +are then laid one on top of another. The +boards are then placed in a vise or clamp +and allowed to remain there over night. In +applying the glue, the builder should be careful +not to put too much on the boards. Too +much glue is worse than not enough. It +should be merely a thin film.</p> + +<p>After the boards have been glued together +the crude hull will appear, as shown in <a href="#fig_13">Fig. 13</a> +.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="fig_13" id="fig_13"></a> +<img src="images/i_034.png" width="350" height="161" alt="Fig. 13" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>At this point the hull sections from 0 to 10<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +must be marked off. By referring again to +<a href="#fig_7">Fig. 7</a> it will be seen that the sections 0 to +1 and 9 to 10 are not so far apart as the +other sections. Section 0 is 1 inch from the +bow of the boat and section 1 is 1 inch from +section 0. Sections 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 are +all 1 inch apart. Section 9 is 1 inch from 10 +and 10 is 1 inch from the stern. Lines +should be drawn across the deck to correspond +with these sections, which can be +measured off with a ruler. It will now be +necessary to cut some templates, or forms, +from cardboard to guide the builder in bringing +the hull to shape. It will be an easy matter +to make these templates by following +<a href="#fig_8">Fig. 8</a>. A template of section 9 is shown in +<a href="#fig_14">Fig. 14</a>. It will be necessary to make eleven +templates, corresponding to the sections 0 to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +10. The templates should be cut from heavy +cardboard so they will hold their shapes.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_14" id="fig_14"></a> +<img src="images/i_035.png" width="300" height="219" alt="Fig. 14" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The hull of the boat is now placed in a vise +and roughly brought to shape with a draw-knife. +After it has been brought to shape +by this means a spoke-shave is used. This +little tool has an adjustable blade by means +of which it is possible to regulate the cut. +When the builder starts to use the spoke-shave +he should also start to use his templates +or forms, applying them sectionally to +determine how much more wood he will have +to remove to bring the hull to shape. For +instance, when he is working in the vicinity +of sections 5, 6, and 7 he will apply these +forms at the proper points occasionally to +determine when enough wood has been removed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +This procedure is followed out the +entire length of the boat, care being taken +to see that both sides are the same and that +too much wood is not removed, since there +is no remedy for this mistake. The builder +who proceeds carefully and is not in too great +a hurry to finish the work need not make this +mistake.</p> + +<p>Of course, it will not be possible to bring +the hull to a perfect finish with a spoke-shave. +This can be done, however, by the +use of a coarse file and sandpaper. The +coarse file is used to take the rough marks of +the spoke-shave away, and the marks left by +the file are in turn removed by the sandpaper. +The sandpaper must be applied unsparingly +and always with the grain. It will be necessary +to use considerable "elbow grease" to +obtain a good finish.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 375px;"><a name="fig_15" id="fig_15"></a> +<img src="images/i_037.png" width="375" height="315" alt="Fig. 15" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Boat-hulls can also be hewn to shape from +a solid block, but it will be understood that +this method involves more work than the one +just described. Of course, the procedure of +bringing the hull to shape by the aid of the +draw-knife, spoke-shave, and templates is +the same, but the hollowing out of the inside<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +of the hull will be a much more difficult +job. However, with a couple of good sharp +chisels and a gouge the work will not be so +difficult as at first appears. The use of an +auger and bit will greatly aid in the work. +After the outside of the hull is brought to +shape the wooden form is drilled with holes, +as shown in <a href="#fig_15">Fig. 15</a>. This will make it much +easier to chip the wood away. After the +major portion of the wood has been taken out +with the chisel, the gouge is brought into use. +The gouge should be used very carefully, +since it will easily go through the entire hull +if it is not handled properly. For the beginner +it is not safe to make a hull less than +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch in thickness. Of course, it is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +necessary to carefully finish the inside of the +hull, since it is covered up with the deck and +cabin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"><a name="fig_16" id="fig_16"></a> +<img src="images/i_038.png" width="325" height="116" alt="Fig. 16" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The solid hull has one advantage over the +built-up hull. It is not affected by moisture +and it is therefore not so liable to warp and +lose its shape. It will also stand more rough +usage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a><a name="fig_18" id="fig_18"></a><a name="fig_19" id="fig_19"></a> +<img src="images/i_039.png" width="450" height="453" alt="Fig. 17" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>There is still another method of producing +a boat-hull. This hull is known as the +Sharpie type. A Sharpie hull is shown in +<a href="#fig_16">Fig. 16</a>. The method of producing a hull of +this type will be seen quite clearly by reference +to <a href="#fig_17">Fig. 17</a>, which shows the boards and +parts cut out ready to assemble. The boards +are made from <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch mahogany, which can +be obtained at any lumber-yard. First, the +bow piece is cut to shape and carefully +finished. Then the two side pieces are +fastened to it, as shown in <a href="#fig_18">Fig. 18</a>. The +screws used should be brass, since iron<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +screws will rust and cause trouble. Three +screws should be used for each side board, +and they should be driven into the bow piece +so that the screws on one side will not interfere +with those on the other. The first +cross-piece is then screwed in place, as shown +in <a href="#fig_19">Fig. 19</a>. The second and third cross-pieces +are then screwed in place and the +back or stern piece attached. The bottom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +of the boat is then carefully put in place with +small screws. It will be noticed that the +bottom board of the boat is cut to fit the inside +of the bottom. It is held in place with +small brass brads. The crevices or seams +along the bottom of the boat should be carefully +covered with pitch or marine glue to +prevent leakage when the boat is in the +water. The bow of the boat should be finished +off nicely to a point with a heavy file or +a wood-rasp.</p> + +<p>This type of hull is extremely easy to produce +and it is capable of carrying a considerable +load. However, it is not a good type to +use for all kinds of boats. It makes a splendid +little pleasure yacht or submarine-chaser, +but for a torpedo-boat destroyer or a freighter +it would not be suitable.</p> + +<p>The young model boat builder is advised +not to try to construct hulls from metal. +This is a very difficult task even for the +thoroughly experienced mechanic. Wood +is much easier to work with and will produce +the same results.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>HOW TO MAKE SIMPLE BOATS, WITH AND WITHOUT POWER DRIVE</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THIS Chapter will be devoted to the construction +of very simple types of boats. +The boats described will be constructed +largely with blocks of wood cut into various +shapes and sizes. The results obtainable by +this method of construction are surprising, +and there are few types of boats that cannot +be modeled by following the method. +After the model-builder has constructed a +few boats along this principle he will be +able to duplicate the general appearance of +almost any craft he sees by carefully planning +and cutting the blocks he uses.</div> + +<p>The first boat described is a submarine. +This is shown in <a href="#fig_20">Fig. 20</a>. Four blocks of +wood form the basis of its construction, and +these are cut from 1-inch stock, as shown in +the drawing. Such a submarine can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +made practically any size up to 12 inches in +length. Beyond this size they begin to look +out of proportion and they are more difficult +to propel. After nailing the blocks together +as shown in the drawing, a small +piece of sheet brass is bent at right angles +and tacked to the stern piece. This is to act +as a bearing for the propeller.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_20" id="fig_20"></a><a name="fig_21" id="fig_21"></a> +<img src="images/i_042.png" width="550" height="547" alt="Fig. 20" title="" /> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + +<p>The propeller-shaft is bent into a hook +over which rubber bands are placed. The +opposite end of the rubber bands are fastened +to a screw-eye driven into the under side of +the bow. A heavy piece of copper wire is +fastened to the stern of the boat by staples, +and bent as shown. A rudder is then cut +from thin sheet brass, and the end of it is +bent around a piece of wire larger in diameter +than the wire used for the rudder-post. +It is then taken from this wire and slipped +over the wire on the boat. It should be +pinched in place by a pair of pliers, so that +it will stay in any position in which it is put. +The end of the wire is bent over so that the +rudder will not slip off. The boat can be +steered in a circle or it can be made to go +straight, depending upon the position of the +propeller.</p> + +<p>The horizontal rudders are mounted forward, +as shown. They are made from thin +sheet brass bent as indicated in the little insertion. +A hole is drilled in them as shown, +and a screw is placed through these to hold +the rudders to the side of the craft. The +screws should be tightened so that the rudders<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +will stay at any angle at which they +are put. If the boat is to be submerged +the rudders are pointed as shown. If the +boat is to travel on the surface of the water +the rudders are brought up into a horizontal +position or parallel with the deck. A little +gray paint placed on this model will greatly +improve its appearance.</p> + +<p>Another submarine, more complicated +than the one just described, is shown in <a href="#fig_21">Fig. 21</a> +. The body of this submarine is formed +by a part of a broomstick or shovel-handle. +This submarine is truer to type and can be +made with very little trouble. The piece of +broomstick or shovel-handle is cut 22 inches +in length. It is pointed at each end, and +part of it is planed off to form the upper +deck. When this is done, a small flat piece +is cut as shown, and nailed or screwed to the +flat portion. The conning-tower and periscope +are placed on the upper deck, as shown. +The rudder on this craft is not made adjustable, +so that it always travels in a perfectly +straight line. The horizontal rudders however, +are made adjustable, and the boat is +therefore able to travel upon the surface or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +submerge, depending upon the position of the +rudder.</p> + +<p>The power plant of this boat is made up of +rubber bands. The power transmission to +the propeller is a little different than the +one previously described. A gear and a +pinion are salvaged from the works of an +old alarm-clock, and mounted on a piece of +brass, as shown. A little soldering will be +necessary here to make a good job. By +using the gear meshing with the pinion a +considerable increase in the speed of the propeller +is obtained, and therefore the speed +of the boat is considerably increased. The +method of holding the power plant to the bottom +of the boat is made very clear. In order +to bring the boat down to the proper level in +the water, a strip of sheet lead can be tacked +to the bottom. The builder should take care +to get a piece of lead just the correct weight +to leave the surface of the deck awash. A +coat of gray paint will also greatly improve +the appearance of this craft.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_22" id="fig_22"></a><a name="fig_23" id="fig_23"></a><a name="fig_24" id="fig_24"></a> +<img src="images/i_046.png" width="500" height="708" alt="Fig. 22" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Attention is directed to the construction +of boats of different types made without +power plants. Many interesting little crafts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +can be produced in this way, and the energetic +model-builder can produce a whole +model harbor or dock-yard by constructing a +number of boats of different types according +to the following instructions.</p> + +<p>The first boat described will be the tug +<i>Mary Ann</i> shown in <a href="#fig_22">Fig. 22</a> and <a href="#fig_23">Fig. 23</a>. +The blocks necessary to construct this boat +are shown in <a href="#fig_24">Fig. 24</a>. The hull of the boat +is produced by three pieces of wood sawed +out to the same shape with a keyhole saw +and glued together. After the glue is dry +the blocks are placed in a vise and the top +one or deck block is planed down as shown. +It will be seen that the deck inclines slightly +toward the stern of the boat. When this is +done the hull is turned upside down and the +bottom of the stern planed off as illustrated. +The outside of the hull can be finished up +with a sharp knife and a jack-plane.</p> + +<p>The little bow piece can also then be tacked +in place. After this the pieces that form the +hull can be nailed together from the bottom +and from the top. This is quite necessary, +for glue will not hold them in place after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +the boat has become thoroughly soaked with +water.</p> + +<p>The cabin and engine-room are shown +very clearly in the illustration and little need +be said about erecting this part of the craft. +The two doors and window on the side of the +cabin are made by cutting out small pieces of +cigar-box wood and gluing them to the cabin +and engine-room. A good substitute for the +wood can be found in tin, but of course this +would have to be tacked on. The little skylight +on the back of the tug is made by a +single block covered by two pieces of cigar-box +wood.</p> + +<p>In order to stabilize the craft and to bring +her down to the proper water-line, a lead +keel must be nailed to the bottom. The +weight of this keel will have to be adjusted +until the boat rests properly in the water. +The reader will notice that no dimensions +have been given for this boat. This is because +most boys will wish to build different +sized boats, and therefore it has not been +deemed advisable to dimension the boats described +in this Chapter. What the author<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +desires to do is to impart the principles of +construction, so that every boy may use his +own ingenuity in regard to size and proportion +of length to beam.</p> + +<p>If tugs are constructed according to the +design outlined above, the model boat builder +will also desire to have something that the +tug can haul. A very simple barge for this +purpose is outlined in <a href="#fig_25">Figs. 25</a> and <a href="#fig_26">26</a>. This +is formed of a single slab with the ends cut +at an angle as illustrated. A square flat +piece is then tacked to the upper deck, which +acts as a cover. Four posts are then put in +place in the same way as those on the tug. +One is placed in each corner. A boat or a +scow like this is generally painted red, and +the model described can be made to look +much more realistic by painting it this color.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_25" id="fig_25"></a><a name="fig_26" id="fig_26"></a><a name="fig_27" id="fig_27"></a><a name="fig_28" id="fig_28"></a> +<img src="images/i_050.png" width="450" height="555" alt="Fig. 25" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>These barges are so easy to construct that +the model-builder should make three or four +of them at a time. If the pieces for several +are cut out at the same time, the construction +will be just that much easier. If the +boat does not sink far enough into the water, +a piece of lead should be placed on the bottom +to bring it down. This piece of lead should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +be placed as near the center as it is possible +to get it. Otherwise the boat will list or tip +at one end or the other. With a little +patience and care the weight can be so adjusted +on the bottom as to bring the scow to +a perfectly level position. The reader will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +understand that the water-line of a scow or +any boat made according to the directions in +this book will depend largely upon the nature +of the wood. In the first Chapter of +the book it was pointed out that the specific +gravity of different woods varies, and therefore +the buoyancy will vary.</p> + +<p>A model freighter is shown in <a href="#fig_27">Fig. 27</a>. +The hull of this boat can be formed by two +1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span>-inch planks. These will require a little +hard work to cut out; but, on the other hand, +the effort will be entirely justified by the +pleasing appearance of the little craft that +can be produced in this way. A bow and +stern block to raise the deck are cut out and +nailed in place, as shown. A cabin is also +placed on the stern of the craft, and this is +formed by a block with a piece of cigar-box +wood placed on the top. The cigar-box +wood should project a little over the edges to +form a canopy. The center of the deck can +be raised by a third block; and three independent +blocks, two large ones and a small +one, form the main cabin. Sandwiched in +between these blocks are three pieces of +cigar-box wood. The remaining details of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +the craft are so simple that they may easily +be made by following the diagram.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_29" id="fig_29"></a> +<img src="images/i_052.png" width="450" height="195" alt="Fig. 29" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Let us turn our attention to model war-ships. +A torpedo-boat destroyer is clearly +illustrated in <a href="#fig_28">Figs. 28</a> and <a href="#fig_29">29</a>. This is very +simple to construct and makes a pleasing +craft when finished. The hull is formed by +two blocks. One of these forms the raised +deck on the bow of the boat. The cabin is +built up on this raised deck. It will be seen +that the part of the hull that rests in the +water is formed by one block. In building +boats of this nature the constructor should +be careful to keep them long and slender, +since torpedo-boat destroyers are always of +this type. They are high-speed craft, and +their displacement must therefore be as small +as possible. Some of these boats carry four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +stacks and some two. The author prefers +four stacks as giving the boat a better appearance +than two. The two little cabins +near the stern of the boat are placed there +merely to take away the plainness of construction. +The guns mounted forward and +aft are merely round pieces of wood with a +piece of wire bent around them and forced +into a hole in the deck.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_30" id="fig_30"></a> +<img src="images/i_053.png" width="550" height="407" alt="Fig. 30" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The boat-builder should not be satisfied +with one or two of these craft; he should +make a whole fleet. This will afford the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +average boy a great amount of pleasure, +since he can add to his fleet from time to +time and have official launchings. Each +boat can also be given a name and a number. +A little gray paint on the hull of these +boats and black on the stacks gives them +a very presentable appearance.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_31" id="fig_31"></a><a name="fig_32" id="fig_32"></a> +<img src="images/i_054.png" width="450" height="338" alt="Fig. 31" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>A battleship is shown in <a href="#fig_30">Fig. 30</a>. A battleship +should be at least twice as long as a +torpedo-boat destroyer. A view of the battleship +as it will look in the water is shown +in <a href="#fig_31">Fig. 31</a>. By carefully examining this +drawing the builder will be able to see just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +the number and shape of the blocks that +enter into the construction of the craft. The +battleship is provided with four main batteries +mounted in turrets, one forward and +three aft. A mast is also built, and strings +run from it to the top of the main cabin and +to the end of one of the turrets mounted aft. +A screw is placed through the centers of the +fore and aft turrets, so they can be turned to +any position. Battleships should be painted +gray. It will be necessary to place rather +a heavy keel on the boat just described in +order to bring it down to the proper depth +in the water. Otherwise it will be topheavy +and will capsize very easily. A fleet of battleships +and battle-cruisers can easily be +made according to the foregoing instructions, +and the builder should not be satisfied +with producing only one.</p> + +<p>A pleasure yacht is illustrated in <a href="#fig_32">Fig. 32</a>. +The hull of this craft is formed by two +boards nailed together. The cabins are very +simple, being formed by a solid block of +wood with a piece of cigar-box wood tacked +to the top. The windows and doors are +marked in place with a soft lead-pencil, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +the stack is mounted midway between the +two cabins. A wireless antenna should be +placed on the boat, with a few guy-wires +from the masts run to various parts of the +deck. A lead-in wire also runs down into +one of the cabins. The hull of this boat +should be painted pure white. The deck can +be left its natural color, while the stack +should be painted black and the cabins white +with green trimmings.</p> + +<p>Almost any type of boat can be produced +by the use of simple blocks of wood and other +miscellaneous pieces easily brought to shape +from ordinary materials. This method of +construction offers a wonderful opportunity +for the boy to exercise his creative faculties.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>STEAM AND ELECTRIC PROPULSION</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>BOATS are propelled by two different +systems. Some inland-water boats +still employ side paddle-wheels, while ocean-going +vessels use the more modern propeller +or screw.</div> + +<p>The paddle-wheel really acts as a continuous +oar. Such a wheel is shown in <a href="#fig_33">Fig. 33</a> +. As the wheel goes around the paddle +dips into the water and pushes the boat forward. +If the direction of the boat is to be +reversed, the rotation of the paddle-wheels is +reversed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_34" id="fig_34"></a><a name="fig_33" id="fig_33"></a><a name="fig_35" id="fig_35"></a><a name="fig_36" id="fig_36"></a><a name="fig_37" id="fig_37"></a><a name="fig_38" id="fig_38"></a> +<img src="images/i_058.png" width="500" height="564" alt="Fig. 33" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Before passing onto the screw, it may be +well to explain just how a paddle-wheel +causes a boat to move. When a man gets +into a rowboat, he generally pushes himself +off by placing his oar against the dock or +shore and pushing on it. That is just what +the paddle does in the water. It dips into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +the water and pushes against it. It must be +remembered, however, that water is unlike +a solid substance and it "gives." When a +man places his oar against the bank and +pushes it, the bank does not move, and all +of the man's energy is used in starting the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +boat. Water, however, does not remain stationary +when the paddles push against it, +and therefore all of the power it not utilized +in moving the boat—part is used in moving +the water.</p> + +<p>The paddle-wheel is not so efficient in moving +a boat as the more modern propeller—or +screw, as it is more often called. The screw +receives its name from the ordinary metal +screw, because its theory of operation is exactly +the same. A wood screw, when +turned, forces itself into wood. A propeller, +when turned, forces itself (and thereby the +boat) through the water. A small propeller +is illustrated in <a href="#fig_34">Fig. 34</a>. This is an ordinary +three-blade propeller. (The writer prefers +the word propeller instead of screw.)</p> + +<p>From the drawing, it will be seen that the +propeller-blades are mounted at an angle. +This angle of the blades causes them to force +water back as they cut through it when the +propeller is revolving. This forcing of the +water back tends to produce a forward motion +of the propeller, and in this way the +boat on which the propeller is mounted +moves through the water. The propeller is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +caused to revolve by a steam-engine, steam-turbine, +or gasolene-engine, as shown in <a href="#fig_35">Fig. 35</a> +. Longer boats have more than one propeller. +A boat that has two propellers is +called a twin-screw boat. A boat driven +with four propellers is called a quadruple-screw +boat.</p> + +<p>When a machine screw is turned around +just once, it moves forward a certain distance, +as a glance at <a href="#fig_36">Fig. 36</a> will show. The +distance the screw moves forward will depend +entirely upon the distance between the +threads. The distance between the threads +is called the pitch of the thread. If the +threads are <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch apart, then the screw +will move <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch every time it revolves.</p> + +<p>If a propeller acts in the same way as a +screw, then it too must have a pitch. The +pitch, or the distance that a propeller will +advance in one revolution, is measured in +inches. A propeller with a pitch of ten +inches should move ten inches through the +water at each revolution. However, there +is a certain amount of "slip," and a propeller +does not actually advance the distance that +it should theoretically. The pitch of a propeller<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +is really the distance it would advance +in one revolution if it were revolving in an +unyielding or solid substance.</p> + +<p>To make a simple propeller, first cut out +of thin sheet brass three blades as shown at +<i>A</i>, <a href="#fig_37">Fig. 37</a>. Sheet brass with a thickness of +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch is very suitable for this purpose. +Next, a block, as shown at <i>B</i>, is carefully +carved out so that the propeller can be hammered +down into the depression. The same +block is used for the three blades, so that +each will have the same curvature. The +block should be cut from oak, since this wood +will not split or lose its shape when the forming +is done.</p> + +<p>The hub is made next. This is shown at +<i>C</i>, <a href="#fig_37">Fig. 37</a>. The hub, of brass, is made according +to the stream-line method. It is +filed to shape from a piece of round brass +stock. A hole runs lengthwise in the brass, +as shown, and a set-screw is used to hold the +hub of the propeller-shaft. The method of +cutting the slots in the hub is shown at <i>D</i>, +<a href="#fig_37">Fig. 37</a>. The hub is clamped between two +boards placed in the vise, and a hacksaw is +used to cut a slot in the hub. The hub is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +then turned around one third of a revolution, +and another slot cut, using the same saw-marks +in the boards, so that the angle of the +second slot will be the same as the first one. +The third slot is cut in the same manner. +The three blades that were cut out are now +fastened in these slots and held there by solder. +This completes the propeller and it is +now ready to be fastened upon the propeller-shaft.</p> + +<p>Let us consider the general method of +putting the propeller-shaft in place. The +young boat-builder will readily understand +that it would be very impractical merely to +bore a hole in the hull of the boat to put the +propeller-shaft through. In this way water +would surely leak into the hull and the boat +would sink in a short time. Some method +must be evolved to keep the water out of the +hull, and yet allow the propeller-shaft to revolve +freely.</p> + +<p>The propeller-shaft is arranged within a +brass tube, as shown at <a href="#fig_38">Fig. 38</a>. The brass +tube should be about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch larger in diameter +than the propeller-shaft. A little brass +bushing must also be arranged at each end,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +as shown. When the propeller-shaft is +mounted in place in the tube, there will be a +space between it and the tube. Before the +propeller-shaft is put in place it is well +smeared with vaseline, and when it is placed +in the tube the space between the shaft and +the tube will be completely filled with it. +This will prevent water from entering. +Owing to the fact that vaseline is a soft, +greasy substance, it will not prevent the rotation +of the propeller-shaft. The brass +tube is placed through a hole bored in the +hull of the boat. The hole should be a +trifle smaller than the diameter of the +brass tube, so that the tube can be forced +into the hole.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_39" id="fig_39"></a><a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a><a name="fig_42" id="fig_42"></a> +<img src="images/i_064.png" width="500" height="354" alt="Fig. 39" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>One of the simplest methods of propelling +a boat is by means of rubber bands. Such +a boat is shown in <a href="#fig_39">Fig. 39</a>. This is a small +wooden hull fitted with a two-blade propeller. +The propeller is shown at <a href="#fig_40">Fig. 40</a>. It is cut +in a single piece and held to the propeller-shaft +merely by a drop of solder since there +will not be much strain upon it owing to the +low power of the rubber-band motor. The +opposite end of the propeller-shaft is bent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +into a hook, and the rubber bands run from +this to another hook placed at the bow of the +boat. The rubber bands may be similar to +those employed by model airplane builders. +The motor, of course, must be wound up by +turning the propeller around until the bands +become twisted into little knots, as shown at +<a href="#fig_39">Fig. 39</a>. Boats driven by rubber bands cannot +be very large unless a great number of +rubber bands are used. Even then the +power is short-lived. However, building a +few small boats driven by rubber-band motors<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +will do much to teach the young boat-builder +some valuable lessons in boat construction.</p> + +<p>Probably the best method of propelling +model boats is the electric method. By +building a boat large enough to accommodate +two dry batteries or a small storage +battery and a little power motor, a very reliable +method of propulsion is made possible. +The boat must have sufficient displacement +to accommodate the weight of the dry-cells +and storage battery. A boat two feet long, +with a beam of 4<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches, is large enough to +accommodate one dry-cell and a small motor, +providing the fittings of the boat are not too +heavy.</p> + +<p>A suitable power motor for small boats, +which will run with either one or two dry-cells, +is shown in <a href="#fig_41">Fig. 41</a>. The connections +for the motor are given clearly in <a href="#fig_42">Fig. 42</a>, +and a suitable switch to control the motor +is shown at <a href="#fig_43">Fig. 43</a>.</p> + +<p>Owing to its greater power, the storage +battery is to be preferred. Dry-cells are extremely +heavy and occupy considerable +space. They are also costly, since they do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +not last long and cannot be worked too hard +unless they polarize.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a><a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a><a name="fig_44" id="fig_44"></a><a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a> +<img src="images/i_066.png" width="550" height="440" alt="Fig. 41" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>A very suitable method of mounting an +electric motor is illustrated in <a href="#fig_44">Figs. 44</a> and +<a href="#fig_45">45</a>. It will be noticed that the motor is inverted. +A small pinion or gear is mounted +upon the armature-shaft of the motor. A +larger gear (about three times the diameter +of the small one) is placed upon the propeller-shaft. +This gives a speed reduction<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +of three to one. It will be seen that the propeller-tube +is strapped within a strip of brass +to a small cross-piece nailed to the bottom +board of the hull. The hull is of the built-up +type, and the other three boards that go +to make it up are not shown. When the +three boards are glued in place, a brass strip +is run across the top board and the base of +the motor is screwed to this. This holds the +motor rigidly in place so that it will not move +when the power is turned on. The brass +strip used should have sufficient thickness to +hold the motor rigid. It will also be seen +that the motor is tipped slightly so that it +will come in line with the propeller-shaft.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a><a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a><a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a> +<img src="images/i_068.png" width="550" height="397" alt="Fig. 46" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>It is not always possible to obtain small +gears. For this reason the model boat +builder may find it necessary to use a different +method of fastening the propeller-shaft +to the motor. A very good method of doing +this is shown in <a href="#fig_46">Fig. 46</a>. Here a coiled wire +spring is used. This is wound to shape on +a rod, and a drop of solder holds it to the +propeller and motor shafts. In the method +of propulsion shown in <a href="#fig_44">Fig. 44</a> the armature-shaft +of the motor must be perfectly in line<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +with the propeller-shaft, or the gears will +bind and unsatisfactory operation of the +motor will result. With the little spring the +motor will not have to be mounted exactly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +in line with the shaft, and it will also be possible +to mount the motor standing up. Of +course, if the motor is mounted in this way +it will be necessary to make the propeller-shaft +longer, as is shown in <a href="#fig_47">Fig. 47</a>.</p> + +<p>Still another method of driving the propeller +is illustrated in <a href="#fig_48">Fig. 48</a>. This method +is so simple that the author feels explanation +to be unnecessary.</p> + +<p>Clockwork can often be employed for propulsion +purposes, but this method is not very +satisfactory. It is also very difficult to obtain +suitable clockworks to install in a boat. +Oftentimes it will be possible to salvage the +works of an old alarm-clock, providing the +main-spring is intact. It is a very easy +matter to mount the clock-spring and connect +it to the propeller. Any one of the +aforementioned methods can be employed.</p> + +<p>Steam propulsion has its advantages; but, +on the other hand, the writer is not inclined +to recommend it as strongly as the electric +method for reliability. Of course, steam is +a more powerful agency in the propulsion of +small boats and thereby greater speed is attainable +by its use.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a><a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a><a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a> +<img src="images/i_070.png" width="550" height="452" alt="Fig. 49" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Here is a very simple small power plant +suitable for driving boats up to 3<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> feet in +length. The boiler is shown in <a href="#fig_49">Figs. 49</a> and +<a href="#fig_50">50</a>. The method of assembling the boiler is +pictured clearly in <a href="#fig_49">Fig. 49</a>. A brass or +copper tube about 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches in diameter is +used. Two end pieces are cut to shape and +forced into the boiler ends. A hole is drilled +in the center of these pieces before they are +put in place. After the end pieces are forced<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +in place solder is carefully flowed around +their edges. The brass rod is then threaded +at each end and placed concentrically within +the boiler, as shown in <a href="#fig_49">Fig. 49</a>. A nut is +placed on each end of this rod and tightened. +The nut is then soldered in place. This +brass rod, called a stay-rod, prevents the end +of the boiler from blowing out when the +steam pressure has reached its maximum +value. Three holes are drilled in the brass +tube, as shown. One is to accommodate the +steam feed-pipe that goes to the engine; another +is for the safety-valve, and still another +for the filling plug. The safety-valve +and filling plug are both shown in <a href="#fig_51">Fig. 51</a>. +The little spring on the safety-valve is adjustable, +so that the valve can be regulated +in order to prevent it from blowing off at +pressures lower than that at which the engine +operates.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a> +<img src="images/i_072.png" width="500" height="255" alt="Fig. 52" title="" /> +</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 164px;"><a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a> +<img src="images/i_073a.png" width="164" height="300" alt="Fig. 53" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A suitable firebox for the boiler is shown +clearly in <a href="#fig_52">Fig. 52</a>. This is cut to shape from +stovepipe iron and held together with small +rivets. Holes should be punched or drilled +in the side of the firebox to give the burner +a sufficient supply of air. The burner is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +illustrated clearly in <a href="#fig_52">Fig. 52</a>. The fuel-tank +can be made from an ordinary tin can with +the cover soldered on, and a hole made for a +cork by means of which it is filled with denatured +alcohol. A little pipe runs from +the fuel-tank to the burner. It is advisable, +if possible, to place a small valve in this pipe +to cut off the fuel supply when necessary. +The only other method of putting the burner +out would be to stand it on its end. The +burner consists of a rectangular tin box with +a top cut out as illustrated. A piece of brass +or copper gauze is placed in the top. Asbestos +wool is used to fill the can, and the alcohol +is drawn into the wool by capillary attraction, +where it burns with a steady hot +flame at the surface of the copper gauze. In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +the corner of the can near the feed-pipe another +small piece of copper gauze is soldered +as shown. This covers up +the feed-pipe entrance so +that the asbestos will not +plug up the pipe.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a> +<img src="images/i_073b.png" width="400" height="225" alt="Fig. 54" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The engine to be used in +connection with the boiler +just described is shown in +<a href="#fig_53">Fig. 53</a>. This is a very +simple engine of the oscillation +type, and there should +be little trouble in making it. +A more mechanical drawing of the engine +is shown in <a href="#fig_54">Fig. 54</a>. The details of the engine +are shown in <a href="#fig_55">Fig. 55</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_55" id="fig_55"></a> +<a href="images/i_074-big.png"><img src="images/i_074.png" width="550" height="407" alt="Fig. 55" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p>The cylinder of the engine should be made +first. This is made from a piece of brass +tubing with an internal diameter of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch. +Two end pieces, or a cylinder-end cover and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +cylinder head, must be cut to fit inside the +cylinder. These should be cut to shape +from <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch brass, and a hole drilled in the +cylinder head <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter to accommodate +the piston-rod. The cylinder head +is then soldered in place. The cylinder-end +cover should be left until the piston-rod and +piston are made.</p> + +<p>The piston head is cut to shape from a +piece of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span>-inch sheet brass, or it can be cut +from a piece of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch round brass with a +hacksaw. The piston-rod is soldered into a +hole in the piston-head. A small square +piece of brass is placed on the opposite end +of the piston-rod to act as a bearing. This +little piece is cut and drilled as shown in the +drawing. Before it is soldered in place on +the piston-rod the cylinder-end cover should +be placed on the rod. Both the piston and +the cylinder-end cover can then be placed inside +the cylinder, and the piston-end cover is +soldered in place. Before final assembling +the piston should be made to fit nicely into +the cylinder. This can be brought about by +applying emery cloth to the piston-head until +it slips nicely into the cylinder with little or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +no play. Thus a steam-tight fit is made, and +this contributes greatly to the efficiency and +power of the engine.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="fig_56" id="fig_56"></a><a name="fig_57" id="fig_57"></a> +<img src="images/i_076.png" width="350" height="256" alt="Fig. 56" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The cylinder blocks are shown in <a href="#fig_55">Fig. 55</a>. +These are cut and brought to shape with a +hacksaw and file. With a half-round file +one side of one of the blocks is filed slightly +concave, so that it will fit on the outside of +the cylinder. Two <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch holes are drilled +in this piece as shown in the drawing. The +hole at the top is the steam entrance and exhaust +for the engine; that is, when the cylinder +is at one side steam enters this hole, and +when the crank throws the cylinder over to +the other side steam leaves through the same +hole after having expanded in the cylinder.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +This cylinder block is soldered to the piston +as shown in <a href="#fig_56">Fig. 56</a>. The pivot upon which +the cylinder swings is then put in place in the +hole at the bottom of the block. Solder is +flowed around the pivot to hold it securely in +place.</p> + +<p>The second cylinder block is now finished +according to the drawing. This has two +holes <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter bored in it. One +of these holes is the steam inlet and the other +the exhaust. When the cylinder is at one +side of its stroke the hole that was bored in +the top of the steam block which was soldered +on the cylinder is in line with the inlet hole +in the block under consideration. Steam +then enters the cylinder and forces the piston +down. This turns the crank around, and +the crank in turn pulls the piston over to the +opposite side, so that the hole in the first piston +block of the cylinder now comes in line +with the exhaust hole on the second cylinder +block. The steam in the cylinder escapes +and the same operation is repeated over +again. Of course, it must be understood +that this steam admission and exhaust takes +place very rapidly. The hole in the second<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> +cylinder block, which goes over the pivot, +must be made a trifle more than <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in +diameter, so that it will slide freely over the +pivot.</p> + +<p>The engine is mounted on a very simple +frame, which is a piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span>-inch brass cut +and bent as illustrated. After it is cut and +bent to shape the second cylinder block is +soldered in place. The cylinder can then be +mounted. It will be seen that the pivot goes +through both the second cylinder block and +the engine standard. A small spring is +placed over the protruding end of the pivot +and a nut put in place. By turning this nut +the pressure on the face of the two cylinder +blocks can be adjusted, and the model engineer +must always remember that the pressure +on these springs must be greater than +the steam pressure in the feed-pipe. Otherwise +the steam pressure will force the cylinder-block +faces apart and steam leakage will +result. On the other hand, the pressure of +the spring should not be too great, since that +would interfere with the free movement of +the engine cylinder.</p> + +<p>Nothing now remains to be made except<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +the crank and the flywheel. The crank revolves +in a small brass bearing which is soldered +in place on the engine standard. It +will be seen that the sheet brass that makes +up the engine standard is not thick enough +to offer a good bearing for the crank. The +crank is bent to shape from a piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch +brass rod, and the author advises the builder +to heat the brass rod red-hot while the bending +is done. This will prevent it from fracturing, +and will also permit a sharp bend to +be made.</p> + +<p>The flywheel is a circular piece of brass 1 +inch in diameter. Its center is drilled out +and it is soldered to the crank as illustrated +in <a href="#fig_54">Fig. 54</a>. Two other holes <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter +are drilled in the flywheel as illustrated, +and two small brass pins are cut out from +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch brass rod and forced into these holes +and then soldered. These provide a method +of driving the propeller-shaft that is shown +very clearly at <a href="#fig_57">Fig. 57</a>.</p> + +<p>The steam feed-pipe that runs from the +boiler to the engine can be of small copper +tubing. It may be necessary to mount the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +engine on a small block, as shown in <a href="#fig_53">Fig. 53</a>. +After the steam in the boiler has reached a +sufficient pressure the engine crank should +be given a couple of twists in order to start +it. Before operating the engine a little lubricating +oil should be run into the cylinder +through the inlet or exhaust ports. The cylinder +should always be kept well lubricated. +The contacting faces of the cylinder blocks +should also be kept lubricated.</p> + +<p><i>Caution.</i> Always keep water in the boiler. +Never permit it to run dry, as this would +cause a boiler explosion. When the engine +is started and cannot be made to run, take +the burner from under the boiler so that +steam will cease to be generated. With the +safety-valve the model boat builder need have +little fear of an explosion. Nevertheless the +foregoing directions should be carefully adhered +to.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>AN ELECTRIC LAUNCH</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE little electric launch to be described +is of very simple construction, and +when finished it will provide the builder with +a very shipshape little model from which he +will be able to derive a good deal of pleasure. +It has a speed of from 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> to 3 miles an hour +when equipped with dry batteries or storage +batteries. The hull is of the Sharpie type, +and this offers very little trouble in cutting +out and assembling.</div> + +<p>The general appearance of the boat and +hull will be gathered from the drawings. +The pieces necessary to assemble the hull are +shown in <a href="#fig_58">Fig. 58</a>. Only five pieces are necessary: +two side pieces, a stern piece, a bow +piece, and a bottom piece. The length of the +boat over all is 40 inches with a 7-inch beam. +The widest part of the boat is 1 foot 10 inches +from the bow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p> + +<p>After the pieces that form the hull are cut +they are thoroughly sandpapered to produce +a smooth surface. The heavy imperfections +in the wood can be taken out with coarse +paper, and the finishing can be done with a +finer paper. It is understood that sandpapering +should always be done with the +grain, never across the grain. The sides of +the boat are cut about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch thick, but they +are planed thinner in places where the bend +is most pronounced. The side pieces are 2<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> +inches deep at the stern and 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches at the +stern. There is a gradual curve from the +bow to the stern, which is more marked toward +the head.</p> + +<p>The stern piece is thicker than the side +pieces, being made of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span>-inch wood. It is +cut to the shape shown at <a href="#fig_58">Fig. 58</a>, and beveled +along the bottom edge to enable it to be +fixed on the slant. The bow piece is a triangle +2<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches in length.</p> + +<p>After the parts are thoroughly finished +with sandpaper the stern piece is fixed in +position. In making all the joints on the +boat the builder should see that plenty of +fairly thick paint is run in while the joint is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +being screwed up. This will help greatly in +making the boat water-tight. Plenty of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch +brass wood-screws are used in assembling +the hull. All the holes for the wood-screws +should be countersunk so that the +heads will come flush with the surface of the +hull. Now one of the sides should be +screwed to the stern piece, at the same time +bending the bottom and side to meet. This +is done gradually, inch by inch, and screws +are put in place at equal distances. When +the bow is reached, the side piece is beveled +to fit the bow piece, which should already +have been screwed into place. The other +side of the boat is treated in a similar +manner, and the young worker should take +care to keep the side and bow piece perfectly +square and upright. This may sound easy +on paper, but it will be found that a good +deal of care must be exercised to produce +this result.</p> + +<p>After the hull has been assembled it is +given a good coat of paint inside and out. +When the first coat is dry the holes left by +the screw-heads are carefully puttied over, +and the hull is given a second coat of paint.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +This procedure will produce a perfectly +water-tight hull.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_58" id="fig_58"></a><a name="fig_59" id="fig_59"></a><a name="fig_63" id="fig_63"></a> +<img src="images/i_084.png" width="400" height="413" alt="Fig. 58" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The stern tube is <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch, outside diameter. +A hole is bored in the bottom of the boat to +receive the stern tube. This job must be +done cautiously; otherwise the bottom of +the boat may be ruined. It is best to screw +a substantial block to the inside of the boat. +This block should be cut to fit the bottom +and will act as a support for drilling. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +will also help greatly to make a water-tight +joint around the tube. The distance from +the point where the stern tube passes through +the bottom to the stern should be about 12<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> +inches. The stern tube should be mounted +as nearly parallel with the bottom as possible, +since on this depends the speed of the +boat. As the angle of the propeller-shaft +increases, the speed of the boat will decrease. +In drilling the hole the boat-builder should +be careful to keep the drill running along +the central line of the boat.</p> + +<p>As before mentioned, the stern tube is a +piece of brass tubing <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter and +8 inches long. It is filed square at both ends, +and a brass plug is fastened with solder in +each end. The tube is then filled with +melted vaseline, which is allowed to cool. +The hole in the hull around the tube is then +well smeared with thick paint. When this +is done, a layer of red lead or putty is placed +around the joint both on the inside and the +outside of the boat.</p> + +<p>While the putty is drying the spray-hood +or turtle-deck can be made. This is bent to +shape from a piece of tinplate and extends<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +half way down the boat. When the turtle-deck +is finished, it is best to lay it aside, before +finally fastening it in place, until the entire +boat is completed.</p> + +<p>The wooden part of the deck is made of +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch wood and scribed with a sharp knife +to represent planking. This method of producing +planking was described in detail in +Chapter II.</p> + +<p>Toward the stern of the boat and just behind +the motor a hatchway is fitted to give +access to the batteries and starting switch.</p> + +<p>The finished Sharpie hull without its driving +batteries or motor should weigh about +1 pound 3 ounces. The hull being finished, +let us consider the electric propelling equipment.</p> + +<p>A <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch cold-rolled steel driving or propeller-shaft +is used. The shaft is 13 inches +long and a gear-wheel 1 inch in diameter is +fixed to one end of this shaft. This gear-wheel +meshes with a brass pinion on the +motor-shaft. This forms a 3<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> to 1 reduction +gear, which produces a greatly increased +speed of the boat. The other end of the propeller-shaft +rests in the skeg bearing. In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> +this present case this consists of a tube about +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch long, which is made for a revolving +fit on the propeller-shaft and supported by a +sheet-metal bracket. This is shown in <a href="#fig_63">Fig. 63</a> +. The end of the propeller also revolves +adjacent to the bearing in the skeg.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="getting" id="getting"></a> +<img src="images/i_088.jpg" width="550" height="385" alt="GETTING READY FOR A TRIP" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GETTING READY FOR A TRIP<br />Heating the blow-torch to a point where it will burn automatically</span> +</div> + + +<p>The propeller is a three-blade affair with +a diameter of 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches. It is attached to +the propeller-shaft with a set-screw. The +motor is a very simple type obtainable in the +open market. It is similar to one shown in +<a href="#fig_41">Fig. 41</a>. As before mentioned, either dry +or storage batteries may be used as a source +of current. The writer strongly advises the +use of storage batteries if possible. The initial +cost of these batteries is greater than that +for dry batteries; but, on the other hand, the +small storage battery can be charged repeatedly +and will outlast many dry batteries. If +the boat is used much the storage battery +will probably be the more economical of the +two.</p> + +<p>The steering gear of the boat is very +simple. The rudder works in a bearing that +is screwed to the stern piece. The end of the +rudder-shaft is tapped, and a brass screw is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +used to clamp it in position after setting it +with the fingers. The rudder-shaft is a <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch +brass rod. The lower end of this rod +is slit with a hacksaw and the rudder is +placed in this. Solder is then flowed along +the joint.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="all" id="all"></a> +<img src="images/i_089.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="ALL READY TO GO!" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALL READY TO GO!<br />A little boat with steam up, ready for a trip when her owner releases her</span> +</div> + + + +<p>Of course, the builder may paint his boat +whatever color he may select; but +a maroon hull with a white-enameled +spray-hood or turtle-deck +makes a very pleasing combination. +<a href="#fig_60">Fig. 60</a> shows a rough +plan of the general arrangement +of the power machinery. <a href="#fig_61">Figs. 61</a>, +<a href="#fig_62">62</a> and <a href="#fig_63">63</a> will do much to give +the reader a clear idea of the +method of construction which could not be +gained by reading a description.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_60" id="fig_60"></a> +<img src="images/i_090a.png" width="400" height="170" alt="Fig. 60" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 105px;"><a name="fig_61" id="fig_61"></a> +<img src="images/i_090b.png" width="105" height="250" alt="Fig. 61" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The general appearance of the boat can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> +improved materially in many ways. For instance, +a little stack or ventilator may be +added to the turtle-deck, +and a little flag-stick carrying +a tiny flag may be +placed on the bow and on +the stern.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"><a name="fig_62" id="fig_62"></a> +<img src="images/i_091.png" width="200" height="139" alt="Fig. 62" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The motor current should be turned on +only when necessary, for dry-cells deteriorate +rapidly when in use, and small storage +batteries quickly lose their charge, although +they will last much longer than dry-cells and +give much better service.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>A STEAM LAUNCH</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE steam launch <i>Nancy Lee</i> is an attractive +little craft when finished and it +is capable of attaining considerable speed. +It is really designed after the cruising type +of motor-boats. This type of boat is particularly +adaptable for simple model-making, +owing to the elimination of awkward fittings. +The power machinery is of very simple construction +and presents no real difficulty.</div> + +<p>The following materials are necessary to +construct the <i>Nancy Lee</i>:</p> + +<div class='poem2'> +Large wood block for hull.<br /> +Thin white pine for deck, etc.<br /> +Sheet-metal tube, rod and wire for the boiler, engine, etc.<br /> +Lamp-wick, paint, screws, and brads<br /> +Miscellaneous fittings<br /> +</div> + +<p>The actual expense necessary to construct +the boat is very small.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + +<p>Having obtained the block for the hull, +you are ready to start work. The hull, when +planed on all sides, should be 30 inches long, +6<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches wide, and 3<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches deep. A +center line is drawn down the length of the +hull, and five cross-section lines are drawn at +right angles to the center line 5 inches apart. +On these lines the builder should mark off the +greatest lengths of the boat, taking the dimensions +from the half-breadth drawing +shown in <a href="#fig_64">Fig. 64</a>. It will be noted that the +deck is wider than the L. W. L. forward and +narrower than the L. W. L. at the stern. +The block should be cut to the widest line +on the half-breadth part.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"><a name="fig_65" id="fig_65"></a><a name="fig_64" id="fig_64"></a><a name="fig_67" id="fig_67"></a> +<img src="images/i_093.png" width="425" height="191" alt="Fig. 65" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The half-widths in <a href="#fig_64">Fig. 64</a> are drawn +each side of the center line on the block. +The block will be cut out to this line and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +planed up as true as possible. The builder +should then project the section lines with a +set square on each side of the boat, mark +off the profile from the sheer plan, <a href="#fig_65">Fig. 65</a>, +and cut the block to this line, afterward +planing it up true.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"><a name="fig_66" id="fig_66"></a> +<img src="images/i_094.png" width="250" height="182" alt="Fig. 66" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The blocks should now appear as sketched +in <a href="#fig_66">Fig. 66</a>. It is now ready for the shaping +of its exterior. A plane, a chisel, and a +draw-knife are the only tools necessary to +bring the hull to the correct shape. The +cardboard templates must be cut, one for +each half-section, as shown in the body plan, +<a href="#fig_67">Fig. 67</a>. These templates serve to show the +proper outside shape of the hull. The block +for the hull must be cut away until each one +of these templates fits properly into place. +The various stages are indicated in <a href="#fig_68">Figs. 68</a> +and <a href="#fig_69">69</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_68" id="fig_68"></a> +<img src="images/i_095a.png" width="300" height="173" alt="Fig. 68" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The interior of the board is gouged out +with a gouging chisel, and if the builder desires +a uniform result he should make inside +templates. In gouging out the interior of +the hull the chisel or gouge should be handled +very carefully; otherwise it is liable to slip +and spoil the entire hull.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_69" id="fig_69"></a> +<img src="images/i_095b.png" width="300" height="145" alt="Fig. 69" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The next job is to cut and properly fit the +raised portion or forecastle. A piece of +wood 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches thick, 15 inches long, and +6<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches wide must be prepared and laid in +place on the hull. The shape of the hull is +marked off with a pencil and the wood sawed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +along this line. The inner portion is also +cut out, thus making a V-shaped piece which +must be glued and screwed in place, as shown +in <a href="#fig_70">Fig. 70</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_70" id="fig_70"></a><a name="fig_71" id="fig_71"></a> +<img src="images/i_096.png" width="450" height="327" alt="Fig. 71" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The oval air-vents shown in the drawing +can be cut at this time. The hull is neatly +finished by cutting in the sheer or curvature +of the hull and sandpapering it all over. A +cross-beam or support, <i>C</i>, <a href="#fig_70">Fig. 70</a>, is cut and +fitted as illustrated. This particular piece +supports the fore-deck, and also carries the +main-deck, as well as bracing the boat together. +This piece should be <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch thick +and cut from solid oak.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<p>The decks can be made of a good quality +of white pine. The builder should select +clean pieces, free from knots and blemishes. +It only requires to be cut to shape and then +fixed to the hull with a few brads. The edge +should be cleaned up flush with the hull by +the aid of a plane. The opening for the +cock-pit, shown in the drawing in <a href="#fig_71">Fig. 71</a>, +is to be cut in the deck. The coamings and +seats are cut to the sizes indicated in the +drawings. They are then glued and pinned +together. When fitted to the deck the result +will be somewhat as shown in <a href="#fig_71">Fig. 71</a>.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"><a name="fig_72" id="fig_72"></a> +<img src="images/i_097.png" width="150" height="81" alt="Fig. 72" title="" /> +</div> +<p>The fore-deck is prepared in a similar +manner; but, since this is to be removable, +two battens must be fitted to the under side +to keep it in place. The openings for the +hatchways can be cut and the hatch-covers +made by cutting another piece of wood <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> +inch thick to form an edging. A cover piece +to go over the small pieces, removed +from cutting out the +hatch opening, is shown at <a href="#fig_72">Fig. 72</a> +. A coping-saw will be found very useful +for this work. The covers are neatly +rounded on the edge and nicely finished.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_74" id="fig_74"></a><a name="fig_76" id="fig_76"></a> +<img src="images/i_098b.png" width="400" height="162" alt="Fig. 74" title="" /> +</div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"><a name="fig_73" id="fig_73"></a> +<img src="images/i_098a.png" width="250" height="253" alt="Fig. 73" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Fig. 73 will give the reader a very good +idea of the appearance of the boat at this +stage. It will be seen that the sketch shows +the deck broken away +so as to render the cross-batten +visible, which +also shows the fair-lead +at <i>F</i>, <a href="#fig_73">Fig. 73</a>. This is +cut from two small +pieces of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span>-inch stuff, +glued and pinned in +place. The forward deck is completed +by the addition of cowl-ventilators, cut +from hard wood and screwed in place. +The flag-mast is made from a short piece of +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span>-inch wire. The details of the mooring-cleats +are shown in <a href="#fig_74">Fig. 74</a>. They are +fashioned by using a small screw-eye and +soldering a short piece of brass wire through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +the eye. An oblong metal plate is then cut +and a central hole drilled. This plate is +soldered to the shank of the screw-eye and +the cleat is complete. One of these devices +is to be fitted to the fore-deck and two on +the main-deck and stern.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_75" id="fig_75"></a> +<img src="images/i_099.png" width="400" height="208" alt="Fig. 75" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The rudder and steering gear will be considered +next. <a href="#fig_75">Fig. 75</a> shows the stern of the +boat with the rudder gear mounted in place. +It will be noted that the rudder-blade is +merely a piece of sheet brass cut to shape +and soldered into the rudder-post <i>M</i>, which +is slit to accommodate it. The rudder-post +is hung in two screw-eyes on the stern of +the boat. A small wheel about 1 inch in +diameter, with an edge filed in it, is soldered +to the top of the rudder-post. A fine cord +or string, well stretched and oiled, is attached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +to the wheel and led through two screw-eyes +on the deck. From this it is led through an +opening in the coaming to a drum on the +steering column, which is turned by another +small wheel similar to that used on the +rudder-post, but with a round edge. The +steering column is merely a piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch +wire, held in place by two small screw-eyes +fixed in the coaming and with a tube-brush +soldered on to keep the wire in position. +The drum is simply a hard-wood bushing +driven tightly in place.</p> + +<p>The power machinery for the <i>Nancy Lee</i> +must be considered at this time. This is +really one of the most interesting parts of the +construction. The general appearance of +the power plant can be seen by referring to +<a href="#fig_77">Fig. 77</a>, which is a view of the complete +boiler and engine mounted together on the +same base. The boiler is shown at <i>A</i> and +the safety-valve and filler at <i>L</i>. The base or +firebox <i>B</i> protects the burner from stray +drafts of air, and also supports the boiler.</p> + +<p>The lamp or burner consists of a receptacle +<i>C</i> for containing the denatured alcohol. +The denatured alcohol is inserted through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +the filler-tube <i>E</i>, which is kept closed with a +cork. The upright tube <i>D</i> is fitted so that +air can go into the receptacle containing the +alcohol. Three burners are necessary to fire +the boiler. These are fitted as shown in <i>F</i>, +and they give sufficient heat to produce +steam enough to drive the cylinder <i>G</i>. The +steam is conducted to the cylinder through +the short pipe <i>K</i>. The steam-cylinder has +the usual piston and rod, which drives the +circular crank <i>H</i>. This crank is mounted on +a crankshaft carried on the metal tube <i>M</i>. +As will be noticed, the cylinder is of the +simple oscillating type mounted on a standard, +formed as part of the boiler casing, +and stiffened by two angle-plates <i>L</i>.</p> + +<p>A heavy flywheel, <i>J</i>, is now fitted to the inside +end of the crankshaft. This wheel +should be a lead casting, and as heavy as +possible. A heavy flywheel contributes +much to the operating efficiency of the engine. +The propeller-shaft and crank are +shown at <i>N</i> in the insert.</p> + +<p>The boiler is made from a strong tin can +about 1<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches in diameter and 4<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches +long. It is cleaned inside and out, and all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +the seams are double-soldered. The lid is +also soldered on the can. This little boiler, +although not elaborately made, will be found +capable of standing up under considerable +steam-pressure, and so no fear need be had +of accidents by explosion.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_77" id="fig_77"></a><a name="fig_78" id="fig_78"></a><a name="fig_79" id="fig_79"></a><a name="fig_80" id="fig_80"></a><a name="fig_81" id="fig_81"></a><a name="fig_82" id="fig_82"></a><a name="fig_83" id="fig_83"></a> +<a href="images/i_102-big.png"><img src="images/i_102.png" width="400" height="472" alt="Fig. 83" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p>A little safety-valve and filler-plug suitable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +for use on the boiler are shown clearly in +<a href="#fig_78">Fig. 78</a>. A piece of sheet tin is cut out to +the size and shape illustrated in <a href="#fig_79">Fig. 79</a> at <i>A</i>. +The piece is bent up at the dotted lines and +the seams are soldered. Two angle-plates, +<i>B</i>, are then cut and fitted and soldered in +place. Next a piece of brass tube with a +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch bore and 1 inch long is cut and soldered +in place for the bearing of the crankshaft. +A lead flywheel 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches in diameter +and <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch thick is then mounted firmly +on a piece of straight steel wire 1<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches +long, which acts as a shaft.</p> + +<p>The shaft is made to run freely in the +crankshaft bearing that was previously +soldered in place. The cylinder is shown in +section in <a href="#fig_80">Fig. 80</a>. If the reader will refer +back to the construction of the engine described +in Chapter 4 he will readily understand +the operation and construction of this +particular engine.</p> + +<p>A little crank must be cut from <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span>-inch +brass, and soldered to the crankshaft after +fitting a wire crank-pin to the outer edge. +This crank-pin should be of such a size that +the joint on the end of the piston-rod shown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +at <i>A</i>, <a href="#fig_80">Fig. 80</a>, turns on it easily. The throw +should be only half the stroke of the engine, +which is <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> of an inch.</p> + +<p>The boiler is now fixed in place by bending +the lugs <i>B</i>, <a href="#fig_79">Fig. 79</a>, so that they just support +the boiler nicely. They are then +soldered in place. Next fit the short steam-pipe +<i>K</i> between the boiler and the steam +block on the cylinder. The builder should +take care to keep the steam-pipe well up to +the top of the boiler.</p> + +<p>The lamp should be built at this time. +The container for the denatured alcohol is +made from a well soldered tin box of suitable +size. It can also be made by cutting +a sheet of tin to the size and shape shown +in <a href="#fig_81">Fig. 81</a>. The corner joints are soldered +and then a tin lid is soldered in place. The +builder should not forget to make the filler-tube +<i>E</i> and air-tube <i>D</i>, as shown in <a href="#fig_77">Fig. 77</a>, +before soldering the top piece in place. The +burners should be made as high as the container, +and these should be made from little +pieces of tin bent to shape and soldered on +to a bottom pipe, as shown in <a href="#fig_77">Fig. 77</a>. The +builder should also remember to cut the holes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +through this pipe so that the alcohol can get +into the burner-tubes, and also to solder the +open end of the bottom or feed tube. Before +the wicks are put into the lamps, the +container should be tested by filling it with +alcohol to see that it is perfectly tight at all +joints. If it is not the container should be +gone over again with solder to assure its +being leak-proof.</p> + +<p>Before operating the engine with steam, +it can be tested with a small bicycle pump +through the opening for the safety-valve. +The engine should turn over briskly at every +stroke of the pump, providing it does not +come to rest at "dead center." If it does +come to rest at "dead center," where no air +can enter the piston, the crankshaft should +be given a little twist and the engine will +then start. Before steam is applied it will +be well to experiment until the engine runs +with the air-pump.</p> + +<p>Having made the engine run smoothly +with air, steam can be generated in the +boiler. The wicks should not be placed too +tightly in the burners. After they are in +place the container may be filled with denatured<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +alcohol, and the burners lighted and +placed under the boiler. In a very few minutes +steam will be up. At the first indication +of pressure in the boiler the engine +should be given a twist with the fingers until +it starts and goes of its own accord. The +constructor should remember to keep his +engine well lubricated.</p> + +<p>The propeller-shaft is merely a piece of +steel wire, perfectly straight and fitted with +a crank <i>A</i>, <a href="#fig_82">Fig. 82</a>. This crank is similar +to the one fitted to the engine, but with a +small slot cut out for the crank-pin to fit +into. This is done so that, as the crank-pin +on the engine turns around, it also turns a +slotted crank on the propeller-shaft.</p> + +<p>A short piece of tube, <i>C</i>, is now fitted to +a flat brass plate, <i>D</i>. The plate is mounted +at an angle to the tube, so that when it is +in place on the stern of the boat the propeller-shaft +will be in line with the crankshaft +of the engine.</p> + +<p>A clearance hole is now drilled through +the hull, so that the propeller-shaft can be +put in place. Solder the tube to the plate, +and punch four small holes in the plate, so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +that it can be screwed firmly to the hull. +Solder a short piece of tube, as shown at <i>B</i>, +<a href="#fig_82">Fig. 82</a>, to keep the propeller-shaft in position.</p> + +<p>The propeller must now be made. This is +easily done by cutting out a disk of brass 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> +inches in diameter, as shown in <a href="#fig_83">Fig. 83</a>. The +shaded portions of the brass disk are cut +away. The blades are bent to shape, care +being taken to see that they are all alike. +This done, the propeller is soldered to the +propeller-shaft.</p> + +<p>The only part of the job that remains is +to screw the boiler in place under the fore-deck +of the boat. This done, the <i>Nancy Lee</i> +is ready for her trial. The fore-deck should +be made removable by fitting it with pins or +screws with the heads cut off, so that the +deck only needs pushing into place. This +little boat should be capable of attaining a +speed of from four to five miles an hour if +it is made carefully and according to the +directions outlined in this Chapter.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>AN ELECTRICALLY DRIVEN LAKE FREIGHTER</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>A PROTOTYPE of the model lake +freighter described in this Chapter +will probably be familiar to many readers. +It is a type of boat used on the Great Lakes, +and, owing to its peculiarity of design, it +lends itself very well to construction in model +form.</div> + +<p>The lines of the boat may be seen very +clearly in <a href="#fig_84">Fig. 84</a>.</p> + +<p>The hull of the model freighter measures +four feet over all, and the beam at the water-line +is 8 inches. The extreme draft will be +in the neighborhood of 5 inches. This +model, when completed, will be capable of +carrying considerable weight; in fact, it is +able to accommodate thirty-five pounds in +weight when used in fresh water. This will +give the builder an opportunity to install a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +very substantial power equipment with little +regard for weight.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_84" id="fig_84"></a><a name="fig_85" id="fig_85"></a> +<img src="images/i_109.png" width="550" height="437" alt="Fig. 84" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The hull is made according to the built-up +principle, and the constructor will have to +cut his templates before attempting the shaping +of the hull. Owing to the depth of the +model, it will be necessary to use about ten +planks. The plank that is used to form the +bottom of the boat is not gouged out. +Every other plank is gouged out with a saw +and chisel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p> + +<p>The bottom plank is shaped with a knife +to conform to the lines of the boat. In building +up the hull with the planks, they should +first be smeared with glue, and when put in +place a few brass brads should be driven in. +As mentioned in an earlier part of this book, +iron nails should not be used in work of this +nature, owing to the fact that they will rust +and cause trouble. The brass brads are +placed about one inch apart the entire length +of the boards. The hull is finished with a +plane and sandpaper, and after it has been +brought to shape in this way and finished, a +coat of paint is applied. Black with dark +red trimmings makes a very good combination +for a boat of this type.</p> + +<p>The deck is made from a piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch +pine board. Seven hatches are added to the +deck. Six of these hatches can be made by +merely gluing a square piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch wood +to the deck. The seventh hatch should be +made with a hole cut in the deck, so that +access can be had to the power motor.</p> + +<p>The deck-house, wheel-house, and chart-house, +as well as the bridge, should be constructed +of tin, which may be salvaged from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +clean tin cans. The bridge is provided with +spray-cloths made from white adhesive tape, +as outlined in Chapter 9. The port-holes in +the deck-house and hull are made by little +pieces of brass forced in place over a small +piece of mica. The life-boats, which are +carried on top of the engine-house, are +whittled out of a solid piece of wood and +painted white. Life-boats are always +painted white, regardless of the color of the +boat upon which they are used. The life-boats +are held by means of string and small +dummy pulleys to davits made of heavy +stovepipe wire. A rub-streak made of a +piece of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch square pine is tacked to each +side of the hull just below the sheer-line. +The rub-streak should be tacked in place with +nails such as those used on cigar-boxes.</p> + +<p>The funnel measures 1 inch in diameter by +4 inches long. A small exhaust steam pipe, +which can be made from a piece of brass +tubing, is mounted directly aft of the funnel. +The forward deck fittings consist mainly of +a steering-boom, two bollards, two fair-heads, +and four life-buoys mounted on the +bridge. The main-deck is equipped with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +six bollards and two covered ventilators, +each <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch in diameter. The foremast is +properly stayed in the deck, and should be +fitted with rat-lines. The rat-lines can be +made with black thread and finished with +varnish, which when dry will tend to hold +the threads in shape.</p> + +<p>The rudder is cut from a piece of sheet +brass to the shape shown, and fitted with a +quadrant. The engine cabin can be made +from cigar-box wood. The windows and +doors can either be painted in place, or the +windows can be cut and backed up with sheet +celluloid. A good substitute for painted +doors will be found in small pieces of tin +painted a different color from the cabin. +The same procedure may be followed in fitting +the windows and doors to the forward +cabin.</p> + +<p>We are now ready to consider the power +plant. Owing to the large displacement of +the boat, it will carry a fairly heavy storage +battery. The electric motor and storage +battery are mounted in the manner shown +in <a href="#fig_85">Fig. 85</a>, which will also give the reader +an idea of the appearance of the finished<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +model. As the drawing indicates, it will not +be necessary to tilt the motor to any great +degree in order to bring the propeller to the +proper depth. This is because of the depth +of the boat. Instead of a string or belt to +connect the motor with the propeller, the +shaft of the motor is taken out and replaced +by a longer steel rod that will serve both +as a motor-shaft and a propeller-shaft. +The propeller-shaft extends from the motor +through the stern-tube. The propeller used +for this model is a three-blade affair, 3 inches +in diameter. It must be of this size in order +to propel a boat of these dimensions at a +consistent speed.</p> + +<p>Care must be taken in mounting the motor +in this way. If it is not mounted directly in +line with the stern-tube the propeller-shaft +will have a tendency to bind. However, +with a little care no trouble should be experienced +from this source. The storage +battery used should be of the four-volt forty-ampere +hour variety. This boat will be capable +of carrying such a battery and this +weight should just bring the craft down to +her load water-line. The whole deck is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> +made removable, so that the storage battery +can be taken in and out at times when it is +necessary to recharge it. A battery of this +capacity, however, will drive a small motor +similar to the type used on the boat for some +time.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>AN ELECTRIC SUBMARINE-CHASER</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE submarine chaser design given in +the drawings and described in the text +of this Chapter is a presentable little boat +with pleasing lines and deck fittings. There +is nothing difficult about its construction, +and, considering the amount of work necessary +to produce it, it is probably one of the +most pleasing boats described in the book. +If made correctly it will look "speedy" and +shipshape.</div> + +<p>The general outline of the boat can be +gathered from <a href="#fig_86">Figs. 86</a>, <a href="#fig_87">87</a>, and <a href="#fig_88">88</a>. <a href="#fig_86">Fig. 86</a> +gives a side view of the craft; <a href="#fig_87">Fig. 87</a> shows +the bow, while <a href="#fig_88">Fig. 88</a> gives the deck-plan.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_86" id="fig_86"></a><a name="fig_87" id="fig_87"></a><a name="fig_88" id="fig_88"></a> +<img src="images/i_116.png" width="450" height="377" alt="Fig. 86" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Notice first the construction of the hull. +This is made according to the Sharpie type, +but the lines are changed to give the boat a +more graceful appearance. This is done by +changing the shape of the deck and the bottom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +pieces. <a href="#fig_89">Fig. 89</a> shows the various pieces +necessary to construct the hull. It will be +seen that the forward portion of the bottom +piece is narrower than the deck piece, and +broadens out so that it is wider at the stern +than the deck piece. The deck piece has a +maximum width of 5 inches, while the bottom +piece has a width of 4 inches at the forward +section. The deck measures 3<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches +at the stern, while the bottom piece measures +4<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches at the stern. This produces a +half-inch taper on each side of the stern. A<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> +half-inch taper is also produced on the bow +portion.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_89" id="fig_89"></a><a name="fig_90" id="fig_90"></a><a name="fig_91" id="fig_91"></a> +<img src="images/i_117.png" width="500" height="434" alt="Fig. 90" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The hull of the boat can be made from +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch mahogany. If this is not available, +choose some other close-grained wood, free +from knots and blemishes. Paper patterns +are made to correspond with the general +shape of the pieces that form the hull as +given in <a href="#fig_89">Fig. 89</a>. The pieces, after being +marked, are cut to shape with a keyhole-saw.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +After this is done their edges should be +trimmed neatly with a jack-plane.</p> + +<p>The two sides pieces are now screwed to +the bow piece by small brass screws. After +this is done the bottom piece is fastened to +the side pieces the entire length of the boat. +Next the first cross-piece, as shown in <a href="#fig_90">Fig. 90</a> +, is screwed in place. This cross-piece +should be 4<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches in length, so that the +width of the hull at this point is just 5 inches. +The next cross-piece should correspond to +the width of the deck piece at the section of +the hull where it is placed. The same holds +true for the third cross-piece. When the +third cross-piece has been screwed in place, +the stern piece is put in position.</p> + +<p>The joints of the hull should then be +smeared with either pitch or bath-tub +enamel or a thick mixture of white lead may +be used.</p> + +<p>After having made sure that the hull is +perfectly water-tight the worker can proceed +to install the power equipment. This +consists of a small battery motor driven with +two dry cells. The design and installation +of such things as stern-tubes and propeller-shafts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +have been taken up in detail in an +earlier part of this book. The strut that +holds the propeller-shaft is shown in <a href="#fig_91">Fig. 91</a> +. This consists merely of a brass bushing +held in a bracket made of a strip of brass +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch wide. The brass strip is wound +around the bushing and soldered. It is held +to the bottom of the hull by means of two +8-32 brass machine screws. These screws +should be tightened to prevent leakage. It +would be inadvisable to use wood-screws for +this purpose, owing to the fact that the bottom +piece of the boat is thin.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;"><a name="fig_92" id="fig_92"></a><a name="fig_93" id="fig_93"></a> +<img src="images/i_119.png" width="350" height="338" alt="Fig. 93" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The two dry batteries for the motor are +held in two tin troughs, as illustrated in <a href="#fig_92">Fig. 92</a> +. These troughs are fastened to the side +of the boat by means of small bolts. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +will prevent the boat from shifting its cargo; +in other words, they hold the batteries in +place and thereby prevent the boat from listing.</p> + +<p>The deck and deck fittings should now be +furnished. The construction of the forward +cabin is shown in <a href="#fig_93">Fig. 93</a>. The sides and +back are formed with cigar-box wood, while +the curved front can best be made with a +piece of tin. The top is also cut to shape +from cigar-box wood, and should overlap +about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch. The pilot-house is simplicity +itself, being made of a piece of curved tin +with three windows cut in it. Four little +lugs cut in the tin are bent on the inside and +each provided with a hole. These lugs are +used to tack the pilot-house to the deck. A +small skylight is produced from a solid piece +of wood and tacked in place as illustrated in +the drawing.</p> + +<p>The builder is cautioned not to destroy +the appearance of his boat by making the +mast too large. After the mast has been +nicely sandpapered, a little wire frame is +bent to shape and fastened to the top, as +shown in <a href="#fig_87">Fig. 87</a>. The little wire railing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +that is placed in front of the mast is then +bent to shape, and this and the mast are put +in their permanent position. The mast can +be held to the deck by boring a hole a little +under size and smearing the bottom of the +mast with a little glue before it is forced in. +Pieces of black thread are run from the top +of the mast to the railing at the bottom, as +shown. These threads are used to hoist signal +flags. Two little angle-pieces are placed +on the forward deck, one on each side of the +pilot-house. These are for the harbor +lights. One should be painted green and +one red.</p> + +<p>This finishes the forward cabin. It +should be placed in the center of the deck +and the position it occupies should be marked +out with a pencil. This portion of the deck +should be carefully cut out with a coping-saw. +The cabin is then forced into the opening. +The fit should be fairly tight, so that +it will not be necessary to employ nails or +glue, as this is the only way in which the +interior of the hull is made accessible.</p> + +<p>Two ventilators are placed just back of +the forward cabin. Between the forward<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> +cabin and the cabin aft there is placed a +rapid-fire gun. The details of this gun are +given in <a href="#fig_94">Fig. 94</a>. The barrel of the gun is +made of a piece of brass rod. A hole is +drilled through this rod +with a small drill and a +piece of copper wire is inserted. +A square piece of +brass for the breech is then +drilled out to receive the +barrel. One end of the +barrel is placed in this hole +and held with a drop of solder. A drop of +solder should also be used on the copper wire +that runs through the barrel. The bearing +and shield of the gun are made from thin +sheet brass, as illustrated. Three holes are +drilled in the bearing bracket, two through +which the wire passes and one through which +the small nail is placed to hold the bearing to +the wooden standard. The shield is forced +over the barrel and held in place with a drop +of solder. When the barrel is mounted in +the bearing, a drop of solder should be put +in place to prevent the barrel of the gun +from tipping.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 228px;"><a name="fig_94" id="fig_94"></a> +<img src="images/i_122.png" width="228" height="250" alt="Fig. 94" title="" /> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p> + +<p>The cabin which is placed aft on the boat, +is of very simple construction. It is made +up entirely of cigar-box wood tacked together, +and the top should overlap <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch. +The cabin is then tacked to the deck of the +boat. The mast should be only three-fourths +as high as the forward mast, and a +tiny hole is drilled near the top. Into this +hole a small piece of soft wire is placed, and +from this wire a thread runs to the cabin. +A small flag can then be placed on the thread, +as illustrated in <a href="#fig_86">Fig. 86</a>.</p> + +<p>Six port-holes are now bored in each side +of the hull with a <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span>-inch bit. These can be +backed up with mica or celluloid. Five +smaller port-holes made with a <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch drill +are then bored in each side of the forward +cabin. Three are placed in the aft cabin.</p> + +<p>With the exception of painting, the hull +is now ready to be launched. Before finally +applying the paint the hull should be given +a thorough rubbing with sandpaper. A battleship +gray with maroon trimmings makes +a pleasing color combination for this boat.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>BOAT FITTINGS</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE model boat builder generally has +some trouble in producing the necessary +fittings for his boats. It is practically +impossible to buy such things in this country, +and so it is necessary to make them.</div> + +<p>Using a little care, it is possible to make +presentable fittings by utilizing odds and +ends found about the household and shop. +In this Chapter the author will describe the +construction of the more important fittings +necessary to model boats, such as stacks, +searchlights, bollards, cowl-ventilators, davits, +and binnacles.</p> + +<p>The smokestack is probably one of the +easiest things to produce. A very suitable +method of producing a smokestack is shown +in <a href="#fig_95">Fig. 95</a>. The stack itself is cut from a +piece of thin brass tubing. It is also possible +to use a small tin can of the proper diameter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +In both cases, of course, paint must +be applied to improve the appearance of the +brass or tin. If the stack is painted either +gray or white a red band near the top of +the stack produces a good finish and makes +it look more shipshape.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 303px;"><a name="fig_95" id="fig_95"></a><a name="fig_97" id="fig_97"></a> +<img src="images/i_125.png" width="303" height="350" alt="Fig. 95" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>The method of anchoring the stack to the +deck of the boat is shown very clearly. First +a block of wood is cut about the same diameter +as the internal diameter of the stack. +This block of wood is then forced up into the +stack. A small square base is then cut, and +fastened to the block on the inside of the +stack with a wood-screw. It might be mentioned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +here that it is often necessary to drill +a hole with a small hand drill before driving +the screw in, to prevent splitting the wood.</p> + +<p>After the base piece is fastened to the +stack, the base in turn is held to the deck +of the boat by two small screws driven up +from beneath. The guy-wires can then be +fastened on. The guy-wires should be made +of very fine wire, since heavy wire would be +entirely out of proportion. The wire can +be fastened on the stack by drilling a tiny +hole through the stack. A knot is then tied +in one end of the wire, and the opposite end +threaded through the hole. Small screw-eyes +driven into the base piece are used to +anchor the guy-wires.</p> + +<p>Ventilators are a very important part of +the boat. The model-builder will encounter +considerable trouble if he attempts to make +his cowl-ventilator from metal, unless he is +very experienced in drawing copper out by +hand. The writer has found a method of +producing cowl-ventilators by the use of clay +pipes. Clay pipes can be purchased for a +few cents each, and when cut down as shown +in <a href="#fig_96">Fig. 96</a> they form very suitable ventilators.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +The pipe can be cut as shown by the +use of a file. The ventilator is held to the +deck of the boat by being forced into a hole +in the deck that is just a trifle under size. +Of course, the forcing will have to be done +carefully to prevent the stem from cracking. +The inside of the ventilator should always +be painted red, and the outside should be the +same color as the boat. Ventilators made in +this way absolutely defy detection and do +much toward bettering the general appearance +of the craft upon which they are used.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 280px;"><a name="fig_96" id="fig_96"></a><a name="fig_98" id="fig_98"></a> +<img src="images/i_127.png" width="280" height="350" alt="Fig. 98" title="" /> + +</div> + + + +<p>A simple searchlight, easily made by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +model boat builder, is shown in <a href="#fig_97">Fig. 97</a>. +This is an electric light, and the batteries +used to propel the boat can be used for the +light. First a small circular piece of wood +is cut out, as shown at <i>A</i>, <a href="#fig_97">Fig. 97</a>. The +center of this is drilled out to accommodate +a small flashlight bulb. A tiny brass screw +is then driven into the piece of wood, so that +it will come in contact with the center of the +base of the flashlight bulb. This little screw +forms one of the electrical contacts, and one +of the wires from the battery is attached to +it.</p> + +<p>A little strip of brass is then cut as shown +in <i>B</i>, <a href="#fig_97">Fig. 97</a>, and provided with three holes, +one hole at each end and one in the middle. +The brass is bent into a semicircular shape, +so that it will be just a little larger in diameter +than the outside of the wooden piece in +which the flashlight bulb is mounted. This +little piece is then fastened to a wooden post +with a small brass pin, as shown in <a href="#fig_97">Fig. 97</a>. +Two more pins are used to hold the wooden +piece to the searchlight proper. One of +these pins is driven through the wooden piece +until it comes in contact with the base of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +flashlight bulb. This forms the other electrical +connection, and the second feed wire +from the battery can be attached to the little +brass piece that holds the searchlight. Both +the feed wires from the battery can come +up through a hole in the deck close to the +wooden post upon which the searchlight is +mounted.</p> + +<p>Bollards are very easily made. Reference +to <a href="#fig_98">Fig. 98</a> will make this clear. First a little +strip of brass is cut, and this is drilled as +shown with two holes, one at each end and +two smaller holes in the center. Two little +circular pieces of wood are then cut, with a +hole through the center. A brass screw +passes through these and into the deck of the +boat. The brass screw should not be +driven in too far, since the bollards should +be free to revolve. It is also possible to use +brass tubing instead of wood if the proper +size is in the model-builder's shop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="powerful" id="powerful"></a> +<img src="images/i_130.jpg" width="550" height="287" alt="A POWERFUL GASOLENE BLOW-TORCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A POWERFUL GASOLENE BLOW-TORCH<br />For a metre racing boat. Such a torch will deliver a steady, hot flame forfifteen minutes</span> +</div> + +<p>A word will be said here about finishing +the deck of a model boat. It is a very tedious +job to cut separate planks to form the +deck. In fact, this job is quite beyond the +ability, to say nothing of the patience, of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +average young model-builder. A very +simple method of producing imitation planking +is shown in <a href="#fig_99">Fig. 99</a>. A sharp knife and +a straight-edge are the only tools for this +work. The straight-edge is merely used to +guide the knife. The cuts should not be +made too deep, and they should be made a +uniform distance apart. When the deck is +finished in this manner and varnished over, +a very pleasing effect is produced. In fact, +if the work is done carefully, the deck looks +very much as if it were planked.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="just" id="just"></a> +<img src="images/i_131.jpg" width="550" height="301" alt="JUST AFTER THE RACE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">JUST AFTER THE RACE<br />A line-up of the entries in one of the power boat races held at Central Park, New York City. +The author presented the cup to the owner of Elmara III, the winning boat, which attained a speed +of nearly thirty miles an hour</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"><a name="fig_99" id="fig_99"></a> +<img src="images/i_132.jpg" width="425" height="286" alt="Fig. 99" title="" /> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_101" id="fig_101"></a><a name="fig_104" id="fig_104"></a> +<img src="images/i_133b.png" width="400" height="266" alt="Fig. 104" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"><a name="fig_100" id="fig_100"></a> +<img src="images/i_133a.png" width="250" height="168" alt="Fig. 100" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A small life-boat is shown in <a href="#fig_100">Fig. 100</a>. +This can easily be carved to shape from a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> +small piece of soft white pine. The center +is gouged out, and tiny little seats made of +thin strips of wood are glued in place. Two +small screw-eyes are placed in the boat, for +fastening it to the davits. The davits are +shown in <a href="#fig_101">Fig. 101</a>, at <i>A</i> and <i>B</i>. They are +made by bending a piece of small brass rod, +as shown. One end of the rod is hammered +flat, and a hole is made in it with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +very small drill. Holes a little under size +are drilled in the deck, and the davits are +forced into these. The method of suspending +the life-boat from the davits is shown at +<i>B</i>, <a href="#fig_101">Fig. 101</a>. The little blocks of wood are +glued on to a thread to represent pulleys, and +they are, of course, only imitation or dummy +pulleys.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_102" id="fig_102"></a> +<img src="images/i_134.png" width="300" height="189" alt="Fig. 102" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The method of producing port-holes is +shown in <a href="#fig_102">Fig. 102</a>. A hole is first bored +through the wood with a bit of the proper +size. The size of the port-holes depends entirely +upon the size of the boat. A piece of +brass tubing is then cut off with a hacksaw +to form a brass bushing. The outside diameter +of this tubing should be the same as +the size of the bit used. For instance, if a +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span>-inch bit is used, brass tubing <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +diameter should be purchased. Such tubing +can be obtained from any hardware store. +Celluloid, such as that used for windows in +automobile curtains, is glued to the inside of +the port-holes. This makes a splendid substitute +for glass. It can be obtained at +garages and automobile supply stores for a +few cents a square foot. The model boat +builder can also use either mica or glass for +this purpose, although thick glass looks +somewhat out of place.</p> + +<p>A binnacle is shown in <a href="#fig_103">Fig. 103</a>. This is +made from a solid piece of +wood cut with a semi-spherical +top. The steering-wheel +is made of a wheel +from an old alarm clock. +The teeth of the wheel +should be filed off. Tiny pieces of wire are +then soldered in place on the wheel, as +shown. A pin driven through the center of +the steering-wheel is used to fasten it to the +binnacle. The binnacle itself can be held to +the deck either by glue or by a small screw.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 177px;"><a name="fig_103" id="fig_103"></a> +<img src="images/i_135.png" width="177" height="175" alt="Fig. 103" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A torpedo-tube for use on model destroyers +and battleships is shown in <a href="#fig_104">Fig. 104</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +First two disks of wood are cut. Then a circular +piece is cut, as shown. Two brass +nails are then driven through this piece into +one of the disks. An upholstering tack is +driven into the end of the circular piece, as +pictured. The method of attaching the +torpedo-tube to the deck is clearly illustrated +in <a href="#fig_104">Fig. 104</a> and no further directions need +be given. If the model-builder has a small +piece of brass tube on hand suitable for use +in this case, it will make a much better appearing +tube than the piece of wood illustrated.</p> + +<p>A wireless antenna is shown at <a href="#fig_105">Fig. 105</a>. +This is a fitting that will do much toward +improving the appearance of any craft. +Very fine copper wire is used for the aërial. +The little spreaders are cut to shape from +wood, and a tiny hole is punched through +them through which the wire is placed. +Black beads slipped on the wire serve very +well as insulators. The lead-in wire which +drops to the wireless cabin is attached to the +aërial by winding it around each one of the +aërial waves. The aërial should be suspended +between the masts of the vessel. A<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> +few words should be said about masts in general. +If there is one way in which a model-builder +can destroy the appearance of a +model boat, it is by using badly proportioned +masts. The average boy seems inclined +to use a mast of too great a diameter, +which makes it out of proportion with the +rest of the boat. It is better to have a mast +too small rather than too large.</p> + +<p>The method of producing railing is shown +in <a href="#fig_106">Fig. 106</a>. The same small brass rod that +was used for the davits can be used for the +rail stanchions. One end of the stanchions +is hammered flat and drilled out. The +stanchions are fastened to the deck by first +drilling small holes and forcing them into +it. Thread or very fine wire is used for the +railing. Fine wire is preferred owing to the +fact that it will not break so easily under +strain.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"><a name="fig_105" id="fig_105"></a><a name="fig_106" id="fig_106"></a><a name="fig_107" id="fig_107"></a><a name="fig_108" id="fig_108"></a><a name="fig_109" id="fig_109"></a><a name="fig_110" id="fig_110"></a> +<img src="images/i_138.png" width="475" height="563" alt="Fig. 105" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Fig. 107 shows a good method of producing +stairs. It must be remembered that +stairs are often used in model-boat construction. +First a strip of tin is bent as shown. +Then two more strips, which act as side +pieces, are cut. One of these strips is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> +soldered to each side of the stairs. Then +six stanchions, which can be made from +heavy copper wire, are soldered to the side +pieces, as shown. The railing can be made +from copper wire or black thread.</p> + +<p>Fig. 108 shows a small skylight placed on +the deck. This is easily made from cigar-box-wood +glued together. The holes in the +top pieces for the windows are cut with a +very sharp knife. It will be necessary to +use a little patience in this, to prevent the +piece from splitting and to prevent cracks. +A piece of celluloid is glued underneath the +top pieces before they are finally glued in +place.</p> + +<p>A small quick-firing deck-gun is shown in +<a href="#fig_109">Fig. 109</a>. This is a very simple fitting and +can be made with very little difficulty. The +base of the gun is formed by cutting a +thread-spool in half. A piece of small brass +tubing is used to form the barrel. A little +piece of sheet tin is looped over the back of +the gun to represent the breech. A tiny +piece of wire is held to the side of the breech +with a drop of solder, to represent a handle. +The shield of the gun is cut from a piece of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> +tin, as shown. A hole is made in the bottom +of this, so that the nail that passes +through the barrel of the gun will also pass +through this hole and into the spool. The +center of the spool should be plugged to hold +the nail. After the gun is painted gray or +black it will appear very businesslike, considering +the small amount of labor spent in +producing it.</p> + +<p>Anchors are more or less difficult to make +(Fig. 110), and unless the builder is endowed +with a great amount of patience he +will not be able to file them out of solid metal. +A dummy anchor can be easily cut out of +wood, however, and when painted black it +will answer instead of a metal one. The +anchor shown at <i>A</i> is a very simple type +made out of a solid piece of wood. The one +at <i>B</i>, however, is made out of two pieces of +wood fastened together with a pin, as shown. +The bottom piece of the anchor shown at <i>B</i> +should be rather thick to get the proper effect, +and the two points should be tapered +nicely. The center of the bottom piece +should be hollowed out to accommodate the +vertical piece.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p> + +<p>A common hatch is shown at <a href="#fig_111">Fig. 111</a>. +This can be made in the form of an open box +from cigar-box wood, and glued to the deck. +It is not necessary to cut a hole in the deck +for this purpose.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"><a name="fig_111" id="fig_111"></a><a name="fig_113" id="fig_113"></a><a name="fig_115" id="fig_115"></a><a name="fig_116" id="fig_116"></a> +<img src="images/i_141.png" width="475" height="354" alt="Fig. 115" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>A cargo-hoist for use on model freight-boats +is shown in <a href="#fig_112">Fig. 112</a>. This is a +very simple piece of work and will need +little description. Several stay-wires should +be fastened to the main-mast and held to the +deck with small screw-eyes. The boom +should be made a trifle smaller in diameter +than the mast. The pulleys are dummy, like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> +those on the life-boat. A little hook bent to +shape from copper wire is placed on the end +of the thread, as shown.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 185px;"><a name="fig_112" id="fig_112"></a> +<img src="images/i_142a.png" width="185" height="250" alt="Fig. 112" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Fig. 113 shows a method of making a +whistle and an engine exhaust. The engine +exhaust is made of a piece of wood, and the +furled top is produced by an eyelet such as +those used in shoes. The engine exhaust is +always placed immediately back of the last<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> +smokestack. The whistle is a simple device +made almost entirely of wood. The whistle-cord +is of thread attached to the small piece +of wire, as shown.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_114" id="fig_114"></a> +<img src="images/i_142b.png" width="300" height="212" alt="Fig. 114" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Fig. 114 shows the method of making +spray-cloths for the top of the pilot-house. +Small brass brads are driven into the top of +the pilot-house, and white adhesive tape is +placed on the brads, as pictured. Advantage +can be taken of the adhesive substance +on the tape which holds it in place on the +brads.</p> + +<p>A rudder is shown in <a href="#fig_115">Fig. 115</a>. The +rudder-post should be a piece of brass rod +so thick that it can be split with a hacksaw. +The sheet brass that forms the rudder +proper is placed in this split and soldered. +In the case of an ornamental boat the rudder +can be fixed as shown in <a href="#fig_115">Fig. 115</a>. It +will be seen that it is quite impossible to keep +the rudder in adjustment in this way.</p> + +<p>If the rudder is to be kept in a certain adjustment +a quadrant is necessary. This is +made by using a semicircular piece of heavy +sheet brass and filing little notches in it. +The lever of the rudder rests in these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> +notches, and by this means the rudder can +be held in any one position, so that the boat +will either turn in a circle or go straight. +<a href="#fig_116">Fig. 116</a> illustrates such an arrangement.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>THE DESIGN OF MODEL STEAM-ENGINES</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>INSTEAD of describing the construction +of several model engines of different design, +the author thinks it advisable to put +the reader in possession of the fundamentals +of model steam-engine design and construction. +In this way the model engineer will be +able to design and construct model steam-engines +according to his own ideas and in +accordance with the raw materials and miscellaneous +parts he may find in his workshop. +Unless the young mechanic is in possession +of a very well equipped workshop, it is quite +impossible to construct a steam-engine according +to certain specifications. However, +if he has in mind the fundamental principles +of steam-engine design, he can go ahead and +design his engine, for which he will have +no trouble in machining or producing the +parts that enter into its construction. By<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> +this the author means that the workman can +design his engine to meet the materials he +has on hand.</div> + +<p>Notice <a href="#fig_117">Fig. 117</a>. This is a cylinder into +which is fitted a piston. If steam is forced +into the cylinder the piston +will be forced to the opposite +end of the cylinder. If some +means is then provided so that +the steam can escape and the +piston come back, another impulse +can be given it by admitting +more steam, and thus a continuous motion +may be produced. This is how the +steam-engine works.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 220px;"><a name="fig_117" id="fig_117"></a> +<img src="images/i_146.png" width="220" height="300" alt="Fig. 117" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Having learned how motion is imparted +to the piston by the expansion of steam under +pressure, attention is directed to what is +known as the "D" slide-valve. This slide-valve +permits steam to enter the cylinder and +to exhaust at proper intervals. See <a href="#fig_118">Fig. 118</a>. +Steam enters the steam-chest through the +pipe <i>A</i>. The slide-valve is shown at <i>D</i>. +When the slide-valve is in the position +shown, steam enters the cylinder, and by the +time the cylinder has arrived in the position<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> +shown by the dotted line <i>C</i>, the slide-valve +moves over, closing the passage <i>B</i>. The +steam under pressure forces the piston to +the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'oppositite'">opposite</ins> end of the cylinder. When +the piston reaches the opposite end of the +cylinder, steam that has entered through the +passage <i>F</i> again forces the piston back to +its original position. This is caused by the +slide-valve shifting its position, because of +the impulse it received at the opposite end +of the cylinder. Thus it will be seen that +when the piston is at one end of the cylinder +the opposite end is exhausting. By carefully +studying <a href="#fig_118">Fig. 118</a> the action of the <i>D</i> valve +will be understood. The connecting-rod <i>E</i> +is connected to the crankshaft and in this +way the engine is caused to revolve.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_118" id="fig_118"></a> +<img src="images/i_147.png" width="300" height="191" alt="Fig. 118" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A cylinder similar to that shown in <a href="#fig_118">Fig. 118</a> + is called a double-acting cylinder. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> +is because the steam acts on both sides of the +piston. Single-acting cylinders are cylinders +in which the steam expands on only +one side of the piston. In the single-acting +engines the <i>D</i> valve is modified.</p> + +<p>The "stroke" of a steam-engine depends +upon the length of the cylinder; really, the +stroke is the distance travelled by the piston. +In model engines it ranges from <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> of +an inch to 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches. The bore of a cylinder +is its internal diameter. The bore is usually +a trifle smaller than the stroke. Thus it is +common to have a stroke of <span class='frac'><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch and a +cylinder-bore of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch.</p> + +<p>At this juncture the author would caution +the more inexperienced young mechanics not +to build double-acting engines. The valve +mechanism is somewhat intricate and very +difficult to regulate. The construction is +also much more complicated, and this also +holds true of the designing. On the other +hand, single-acting engines, while not so +powerful for a given size, will do very +nicely in driving model boats, and will deliver +sufficient power for all ordinary purposes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"><a name="fig_119" id="fig_119"></a> +<img src="images/i_149.png" width="475" height="357" alt="Fig. 119" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Your attention is directed to <a href="#fig_119">Fig. 119</a>. +This shows a design for a model single-cylinder, +single-acting steam-engine. The +reader should carefully study each drawing +before continuing to digest the following +matter. The cylinder <i>L</i> can be made from +a piece of tubing. This can be either brass +or copper. Aluminum should not be used, +owing to the fact that it is difficult to solder +and difficult to work with. The piston is +made so that it will fit nicely into the cylinder +and move up and down without binding. +It will be seen that a groove, <i>M</i>, is cut around<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> +the piston near the top. String soaked in oil +is placed in this groove. This is called packing, +and the presence of this packing prevents +steam leakage between the piston and +the cylinder walls and thereby materially increases +the efficiency of the engine.</p> + +<p>In this case the connecting-rod <i>R</i> is made +in a circular piece. It is attached to the piston +by a pin, <i>F</i>. The connecting-rod must +be free to revolve upon this pin. The engine +shown has a stroke of <span class='frac'><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch. Therefore, +the crank-pin <i>K</i> on the crank-disk <i>N</i> must +be placed <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> of <span class='frac'><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> or <span class='frac'><sup>7</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch from the +center of the disk <ins title="Transcriber's Note: not italicized in the original text"><i>N</i></ins>, so that when this disk +makes one revolution, the piston will move +<span class='frac'><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in the cycle. Thus it will be seen that +the distance of the crank-pin <i>K</i> from the +center of the crank disk <i>N</i> will depend entirely +upon the stroke of the engine. It may +be well to mention here that the worker +should always start designing his engine by +first determining the bore and stroke. +Everything depends upon these two factors. +It is also well to mention here that the piston +should never travel completely to the top +of the cylinder—a small space must always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> +be left for the steam to expand. One eighth +of an inch is plenty of space to leave.</p> + +<p>It will be noticed that the valve mechanisms +on the particular engine shown bear no +resemblance to the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: not italicized in the original text"><i>D</i></ins> valve previously described. +The holes <i>G</i> which are bored +around the cylinder are the exhaust ports. +It will be seen that when the piston is at +the end of its downward stroke it uncovers +these exhaust ports and permits the steam +to escape. The momentum of the flywheel +<i>A</i> pushes the piston upward, closing these +holes. As these holes are closed the valve +<i>H</i> uncovers the entrance <i>I</i> and permits steam +to enter from the boiler through <i>J</i>. By the +time the piston has reached the upward limit +of its stroke a considerable steam pressure +has developed on top of the cylinder, and this +again forces the piston downward. Thus +the same cycle of movement is gone through +repeatedly.</p> + +<p>The valve on this little engine is extremely +simple. It consists of a circular piece of +brass drilled out, as shown. A hole (<i>I</i> and +<i>J</i>) is drilled transversely through this. The +little cylinder shown in the insert at <i>O</i> slides<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +in the larger hole, and when it is at its upper +limit it cuts off the steam. At the proper +intervals the valve is pulled down by the +eccentric <i>C</i>. It will be seen that the moving +parts, i.e., the valve and the piston, must +be properly timed. That is, the eccentric <i>C</i> +must be mounted on the crank-shaft <i>B</i> so +that the valve will close and open at proper +intervals. When the engine is made, the eccentric +can be shifted about by means of a +set-screw, <i>Q</i>, until the engine operates satisfactorily. +This set-screw is used to hold the +eccentric to the crank-shaft. The word eccentric +merely means "off center." Thus +the eccentric in this case is formed by a little +disk of brass with the hole drilled off center. +The distances these holes are placed off center +will depend entirely upon the motion of +the valve. It will be seen that the valve is +connected to the eccentric by means of the +valve-rod <i>E</i>. The valve-rod, in turn, is held +to a circular strap which is placed around +the eccentric. A groove should be cut in +the surface of the eccentric, so that this +strap will not slip off. If the strap is not +put on too tightly and the eccentric is free<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> +to revolve within it, the valve will be forced +up and down as the eccentric revolves.</p> + +<p>The crank-shaft <i>B</i> revolves in two bearings, +<i>D D</i>. The flywheel is held to the +crank-shaft by means of a set-screw <i>S</i>.</p> + +<p>Most small engines with a bore under one +inch will operate nicely on from 20 to 30 +pounds of steam, and this pressure can easily +be generated in the boiler that was described +in the chapter on model-boat power plants.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>A MODEL FLOATING DRY-DOCK</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>AS many of the readers probably know, +a dry-dock is used in assisting disabled +vessels. Some dry-docks are permanent, +while others are built so that they +can be floated or towed to a disabled vessel +that is not able to get to a land dry-dock. +The land dry-dock operates as follows. It +is first filled with water, and the disabled +boat is towed in by tugs. After the tugs +leave, the gates are closed, and the water in +the dry-dock is pumped out, leaving the boat +high and dry. Large props are put in place +to prevent the boat from tipping.</div> + +<p>The dry-dock here described is a model +that is towed to a disabled vessel. It is then +sunk until it passes under the boat. The +sinking is brought about by filling the dry-dock +with water. After it has sunk to the +proper depth it is passed under the boat to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +be repaired, the water is pumped out, and +the dry-dock rises, lifting the disabled boat +with it. Repairs can then be made very +easily.</p> + +<p>The model here described does not possess +all the fittings and additions of the original. +However, it is able to rise or sink as required, +carrying the machinery necessary to +bring about these functions.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_120" id="fig_120"></a><a name="fig_121" id="fig_121"></a> +<img src="images/i_155.png" width="450" height="269" alt="Fig. 120" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>A general view of the completed model is +shown in <a href="#fig_120">Fig. 120</a>. The first part to construct +is the framework for the hull. Four +pieces of wood will be required for this, +and they should be cut to the shape and size +shown in <a href="#fig_121">Fig. 121</a>. To make this it is best<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +to cut the two side parts first, as indicated +by the dotted lines. This done, the bottom +piece can be clamped on from behind by +means of pieces of lath. These are for the +two end pieces. The other two pieces are +made in the same way, except that they contain +holes for the water to pass through, as +shown at <i>B</i>. The wood for these frames, +or ribs, should be not less than <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch thick +in order to accommodate the pieces used in +the construction of the remainder of the +hull.</p> + +<p>When the builder has made the four ribs, +he should proceed to construct the lower +deck, which consists of a single piece of wood +nicely planed and finished, measuring 14<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> +inches long by 8 inches wide and <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch +thick. This piece must be nailed to the bottom +of each of the ribs, one at each end, and +the other two containing the holes at equal +distances apart. Tiny nails, similar to those +used on cigar-boxes, will be found very suitable +for this work. Some old cigar-boxes +may be broken apart to obtain the nails for +this purpose. Before nailing on the board it +should be marked out to present ordinary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +deck-boards. The reader is referred back +to Chapter 9 which describes this process, +using a straight-edge and knife.</p> + +<p>When this board is nailed in place, the +next requirement will be two pieces for the +sides the bottom edges, of which must rest +on the top of the deck-board. These boards +are the same length as the deck. They +should reach to the top of the ribs, and be +fastened in the same way as the bottom deck. +It is good practice, when doing this, to place +a little white lead on the bottom edge before +finally driving the nails in place. This will +tend to produce a water-tight joint. This +done, three pieces of wood <span class='frac'><sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch square +must be screwed in place, flush with the bottom +ends of the ribs, to form a flat keel. +They should be firmly fixed since a lead keel +is afterward screwed on the bottom of the +boat. Attention should now be directed to +fitting the two middle decks. These are +placed 4 inches from the top and are 4 inches +wide. In this space the engine and pumps +are placed. Therefore, the top deck is made +in the form of a lid, and the outside plate +made to draw out. In this way the mechanism<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> +below the deck can be made very accessible.</p> + +<p>The framework of the dry-dock is now +completed, and the builder can proceed to fix +on the side plates. These are made from +sheet tin with a width of 14<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches. The +length must be sufficient to reach from the +top of one side, around the bottom of the +hull, to the top of the other side. Having +cut the tin to the required size, one side is +put in place with small nails, spacing them +an equal distance apart.</p> + +<p>Before securing the opposite side, the +builder must first arrange the inlet-valve. +This particular member is constructed as follows. +First, obtain an old gas-pipe union +which measures about <span class='frac'><sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter +and <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch long. With a hacksaw this is cut +off in a sloping direction with an angle to +correspond with the slope in the bottom of +the dry-dock. When this is done, a lid must +be fitted to the top by means of a long rod, +as clearly shown in <a href="#fig_122">Fig. 122</a>. On the under +side of this lid a small piece of sheet rubber +should be glued, so that when the lid is +screwed down the valve will be made water-tight.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +The valve must now be soldered to +the inside of the hull. It is placed in such a +position that it will rest just under +the center of one of the upper +decks when the controlling +rod is upright.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 120px;"><a name="fig_122" id="fig_122"></a> +<img src="images/i_159.png" width="120" height="300" alt="Fig. 122" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The top end of the rod must +contain a thread for about 1 inch, +and a round plate made to screw +on. This plate should be about +<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in diameter, and contain +three small holes around the +edge. These holes are used in fastening +the plate to the deck. The top of the rod +is fitted with a small crank-handle, which is +used in turning the rod in either direction. +In this way the valve can be either opened +or closed. At the bottom of the rod a small +swivel should be provided, as indicated in +<a href="#fig_122">Fig. 122</a>.</p> + +<p>The plate or sheet of tin on this side of +the hull can now be permanently fixed in +place. When this is done a light hammer +should be used around the edges to turn the +tin into the wood.</p> + +<p>With the plates secured in place, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> +builder must next fix a flat wood keel along +the bottom of the dry-dock. This should +be screwed to the inside keel, screws passing +through the tin plate. A lead keel is then +screwed to the wooden keel, and when this +is done the dry-dock can be launched. If +the foregoing instructions have been carried +out carefully the dry-dock should ride lightly +on the water.</p> + +<p>As a trial the inlet-valve is now unscrewed +and water is permitted to enter the hull. +When the water rushes in, the hull will begin +to sink. The water should be allowed +to enter until the hull sinks to within an inch +of the lower or inside deck. The valve +should then be closed. The exact position +of the water should now be found, and a line +drawn all around the hull, which can afterward +be painted in.</p> + +<p>The engine and boilers must now be constructed +and placed on the dry-dock, so that +the water that was permitted to enter may be +pumped out. As a temporary arrangement, +a thin rubber tubing is inserted through a +hole in the lower deck and allowed to hang +outside the water-level. The siphon can<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> +then be formed by simply drawing the water +up by suction with the lips. A continuous +flow will result, emptying the hull within a +short time.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 325px;"><a name="fig_123" id="fig_123"></a> +<img src="images/i_161.png" width="325" height="255" alt="Fig. 123" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Attention is now directed to the construction +of the boiler and pumps. The boiler, +which is rectangular in shape, is made of +thin sheet copper, and measures 4 inches +long by 3 inches wide by 2 inches deep. A +hole is made in the top, and a brass or copper +tube 6 inches long and about <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in diameter +is soldered in position, as depicted in +<a href="#fig_123">Fig. 123</a>. This tube acts as a chimney on +the dry-dock, but it is really used for filling +the boiler, and the top is supplied with a +tightly fitting cork.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ends of the boiler also act as supports, +and they are made 4 inches long. The +bottom edge is turned up for about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch +to enable the boiler to be screwed firmly to +the lower deck. The boiler occupies a position +at one end of the hull, and should fit +easily in between decks. A small spirit-lamp +is used to furnish heat, and no description +need be given of this particular part of +the equipment. Before the boiler is firmly +fixed in place a small hole should be made +near the top at one end. The feed steam-pipe +is inserted in this, and soldered in place.</p> + +<p>Two small oscillating cylinders, similar to +those made for the engine on the <i>Nancy Lee</i> +(Chapter 6), should be made. They should +not be more than <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in length, with a <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch +bore. If the builder has any old model +steam-engines in the shop, he may take the +cylinders from them instead of constructing +new ones for the dry-dock.</p> + +<p>The engine is set up as shown in <a href="#fig_124">Fig. 124</a>. +The first job is to make the frame or standards, +and this is in one piece. Two pieces +of brass (<i>A</i>), measuring 5<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches long by +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch wide and <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch in thickness, are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> +cut. Next the builder should mark off 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> +inches from either end, and carefully bend +at right angles, after which holes are drilled +to accommodate the crank-axle <i>B</i>. Two +holes must also be made for screws to enable +the machine to be screwed to the deck.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 325px;"><a name="fig_124" id="fig_124"></a><a name="fig_125" id="fig_125"></a> +<img src="images/i_163.png" width="325" height="173" alt="Fig. 124" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The flywheel should be 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches in diameter, +while the bent crank has a throw of +<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch. The steam-cylinder is fixed on the +outside of one of the uprights, and the steam-pipe +must, of course, be fitted from the inside.</p> + +<p>The pump-cylinder is composed of a small +piece of brass tube 1 inch long and <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in +diameter. The plunger is <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch long, and +the diameter is just sufficient to enable it to +work freely up and down inside the brass +tube. One end is shaped as shown in <a href="#fig_125">Fig. 125</a> +. This contains a saw cut that enables<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +the pump-rod to be placed between and connected +with a pin. The bottom end of the +cylinder is now fitted with a brass disk in +which a hole is made and a <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span>-inch tube +soldered in place. The inside surface of +this piece of brass should be countersunk, +and the piece is then soldered into the end of +the cylinder. Before the plunger is inserted +a small lead shot is dropped in, which should +be larger than the hole at the bottom of the +cylinder, thereby covering it. A hole is +drilled in at the side of the cylinder, and a +small bent pipe fixed in it. At the top of +this pipe a short piece of <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch brass tube +is fixed in place, as indicated. This piece +of tubing is closed at both ends. The bottom +end is treated like that of the pump-barrel +and supplied with a large shot. An outlet-pipe +is soldered into the side of the delivery-valve +chamber and leads to the side of the +hull.</p> + +<p>The pump <i>E</i> is fixed at the bottom midway +between the engine uprights as indicated +in <a href="#fig_124">Fig. 124</a>. The suction-pipe passes +through a hole and down through the deck +nearly to the bottom of the hull. After the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +engine and boiler are connected, a trial can +be made. If the foregoing instructions +have been carried out, the engine will run +at a good speed and a continuous flow of +water will be pumped out of the hull. All +parts of the engine and pump should be carefully +oiled and water should be poured into +the pump in order to prime it before its +start.</p> + +<p>It is understood that two complete boilers +and pump units are made for the model, and +one is mounted on each side. If the builder +desires to increase the capacity of the pumps +and install a more powerful boiler and engine, +only one pump will be necessary. +Otherwise the water will not be pumped +from the hull very rapidly.</p> + +<p>When the builder has finished the pump +units, he should turn his attention to the remainder +of the fittings. Two small cranes +are made, and one is placed at each side of +the hull. They are made of tin. The cab +of each crane measures 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches high by +2 inches long by 1<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches wide. A small +roof is fitted on, and a piece of wood fitted +to the bottom to serve as a floor. The jib<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +measures 6 inches long by <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch at the base, +and tapers to <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch. It has <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch turned +down at each side, thus adding considerable +strength. The jib is fitted to the cab by +means of a wire passed through the sides, +and two guy-ropes are arranged as shown. +A small piece is now cut out at the top, and +a pulley wheel fixed in position by means of +a pin passed through the sides.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 275px;"><a name="fig_126" id="fig_126"></a> +<img src="images/i_166.png" width="275" height="189" alt="Fig. 126" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The winding-drum can be made of either +tin or wood. The axle passes through both +sides of the cab, the crank being attached +to the outside. <a href="#fig_126">Fig. 126</a> shows the completed +crane, which is held to the deck by +means of a small bolt and nut. A washer +should be placed between the bottom of the +crane and the deck, to allow the crane to +turn freely with little friction.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> + +<p>A hand-rail, made of fine brass wire, is +placed around the deck.</p> + +<p>Dummy port-holes are fixed to the sides +of the dry-dock for the purpose of lighting +up the interior of the engine-room. These +are furnished from top rings taken from +gas-mantles. Anchor-chains are fixed at +each end of the dry-dock. The whole dry-dock +is painted with two coats of gray paint +and the water-line painted in bright red.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"><a name="fig_127" id="fig_127"></a> +<img src="images/i_167.png" width="200" height="237" alt="Fig. 127" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Fig. 127 shows the dry-dock with a model +boat in position.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>OPERATION OF FLASH STEAM POWER PLANTS FOR MODEL BOATS</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE flash steam method of propelling +model power boats of the racing type +produces a far greater speed than would +otherwise be possible. Flash steam plants +are far more complicated than ordinary +steam-propelled power plants, and for this +reason the author devotes a chapter to their +description.</div> + +<p>A considerable equipment of tools and not +a little mechanical ingenuity are required to +produce and assemble a workable flash steam +plant. However, such plants have gained +great popularity in the past few years, and +all of the hydroplane racing craft are propelled +with such outfits. These power +plants are capable of delivering such a tremendous +power that speeds as high as thirty-five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> +miles an hour have been reached by boats +measuring 40 inches long.</p> + +<p>The illustration, <a href="#fig_128">Fig. 128</a>, shows a flash +steam plant and its various parts. Each +part and its function will be described in +this Chapter in detail. The gasolene tank <i>A</i> +is used to hold the fuel, which is fed to the +gasolene burner <i>C</i>. The gasolene burner +operates on the principle of the ordinary +gasolene torch. First the tank is filled about +three-quarters full with gasolene. An air-pressure +is then produced in the tank with a +bicycle pump. The pipe leading from the +gasolene-tank at the top is coiled around the +burner, and the free end of it is bent and +provided with a nipple, so that the gasolene +vapor will be blown through the center of +the helix of the coil formed by the pipe bent +around the burner. This is quite clearly +shown in the drawing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_128" id="fig_128"></a> +<img src="images/i_170.png" width="550" height="339" alt="Fig. 128" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The cylinder is merely a piece of stovepipe +iron bent to shape and provided with several +air-holes at the burner end. To start the +burner, the vaporizing coils must first be +heated in an auxiliary flame. The flame of +an ordinary blow-torch is suitable for this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +purpose. After the coils have become sufficiently +hot the valve at the top of the gasolene-tank +is opened, and this causes a stream +of gasolene vapor to issue at the nipple. +This produces a hot flame at the center of +the vaporizing coils, and in this way the coils +are kept hot. The purpose of heating these +coils is further to vaporize the gasolene as +it passes through them on the way to the +burner. Once started, the action of the +burner is entirely automatic. The vaporizing +coils are made of Shelby steel tubing +with an internal diameter of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch.</p> + +<p>It will be seen that the flame from the +gasolene-torch is blown through the center +of the boiler coils <i>B</i>. Thus, any water passing +through these boiler coils is instantly +converted into steam. In other words, the +water "flashes" into steam. The heat of the +blow-torch is so great that most of the boiler +coils are maintained at red heat even while +the water is passing through them.</p> + +<p>Notice the water-tank <i>G</i>. A little scoop, +formed by a pipe of small diameter, protrudes +through the bottom of the boat, so +that the forward motion of the boat will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +cause water to rise in the tank <i>G</i>. An overflow +is also provided, so that, should the +water not be sucked out of the tank quickly +enough, it will not flood the boat. The +overflow pipe hangs off the side of the +boat.</p> + +<p>The water pump <i>E</i> sucks water from the +tank, and pumps it through the check-valve +<i>K</i> (this valve permits water to pass in one +direction only) into the boiler coils. The +boiler coils, being red-hot, cause the water +to flash into steam the instant it reaches +them. By the time the steam has reached +the opposite end of the boiler coils, it is no +longer steam, but a hot, dry gas at a terrific +pressure. From the boiler coils the steam +passes into the steam-chest of the engine, +and thence into the cylinder, where it expands, +delivering its energy to the piston.</p> + +<p>It will be seen that the water-pump <i>E</i> is +geared to the engine. Owing to this, it is +necessary to start the water circulating +through the boiler coils by the hand pump +<i>F</i>. This hand pump forces water through +the boiler coils just as the power pump does. +After the hand pump is started the engine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +is turned over a few times until it starts. +The valve <i>H</i> is then closed, which cuts the +starting pump <i>F</i> entirely out of the system, +because when the engine starts it also drives +the water pump <i>E</i>, and therefore the action +becomes entirely automatic.</p> + +<p>The relief-cock <i>L</i> is placed in the system +to be used if the engine stalls. By opening +the relief-cock the pressure in the complete +system is immediately relieved. At all +other times the relief-cock is closed.</p> + +<p>A second pump, <i>I</i>, is also included in the +system. This, like the water-pump, is +geared to the engine and driven by it. It is +the duty of this pump to convey oil from +the lubricating tank <i>M</i> into the steam feed-pipe +just before it enters the steam-chest. +In this way the live superheated steam +carries a certain amount of lubricating oil +with it in the cylinder.</p> + +<p>Owing to the high temperature of the superheated +steam, it is impossible to use brass +cylinders on the steam-engines employed +with flash steam systems. Steel seems to be +the only cheap metal that is capable of withstanding +the attack of flash steam. Brass<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +is out of the question, since its surface will +pit badly after it is in use a short time.</p> + +<p>The boiler of a flash steam plant is +covered with sheet iron so as to prevent +drafts of air from deflecting the flame from +the center of the boiler coils. The cover is +provided with ventilators, so that the burner +will not be smothered. If enough oxygen +does not enter the interior of the boiler coils, +poor combustion will result, and the gasolene +flame will not develop its maximum +heat. Upon referring again to the diagram, +it will be seen that the exhaust steam pipe +from the engine discharges into the stack of +the boiler covering. This discharge greatly +facilitates the circulation of air through the +boiler coils.</p> + +<p>After a flash steam plant has been started +it will work automatically, providing all the +parts are in good running order. Flash +steam plants, however, are difficult to get in +the proper adjustment, and once adjusted +they are easily disturbed by minor causes. +Owing to the fact that every square inch of +surface in the flash coils is heating surface, +the amount of water supplied to the boiler<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +must be exactly what is needed. The heat +must also be regulated so that the temperature +of the steam will just meet the engine's +needs. Many times an increase in heat +causes the steam to reach such a temperature +that it will burn up the lubricating oil before +it reaches the cylinder of the engine. This +is liable to cause trouble, because sticking is +apt to occur.</p> + +<p>Model power boats with speeds as high as +thirty-five miles an hour have been made in +America. Such high-speed boats must be +assembled with infinite care, owing to the +fact that the mechanism they carry is more +or less erratic in its action, and unless it is +well made results cannot be expected.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 271px;"><a name="fig_129" id="fig_129"></a> +<img src="images/i_176.png" width="271" height="275" alt="Fig. 129" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>There are probably few sports more interesting +than that of model power-boat racing. +The Central Park Model Yacht Club +of New York city is one of the most progressive +clubs in America, and its members +not only have a sail-boat division, but they +also have a power-boat division. The members +of the power-boat section have races +regularly once a week, and the most lively +competition is shown. It is indeed amusing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> +to watch these little high-speed boats +dash across the pond, their bows high in the +air and their little engines snorting frantically. +Owing to the difficulty of keeping +these small racing boats in a straight line, +they are tied to a wire or heavy cord and +allowed to race around a pole anchored in +the center of the pond, as illustrated in <a href="#fig_129">Fig. 129</a> +. The top of the pole should be provided +with a ball-bearing arranged so that +the cord to which the boat is fastened will +not wind around the post. In this way the +boats are caused to travel in a circle, and as +the cord to which they are fastened represents +the radius of the circle, the circumference +can readily be found by multiplying the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> +radius by 2, which will give the diameter. +The diameter is then multiplied by 3.1416 +to obtain the circumference. If the boats +were permitted to travel wild they would run +into the bank, a fatal procedure when they +are running at high speed.</p> + +<p>Speed boat hulls are usually of the hydroplane +or sea-sled type. This type of hull is +extremely easy to make. Such a hull is +shown in <a href="#fig_130">Fig. 130</a>. It will be seen that it +has an aluminum bottom. The propeller +and propeller strut will be noticed in this illustration.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_130" id="fig_130"></a><a name="fig_131" id="fig_131"></a><a name="fig_132" id="fig_132"></a> +<img src="images/i_178.png" width="450" height="417" alt="Fig. 130" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The drawing for the particular hull shown +in <a href="#fig_130">Fig. 130</a> is given in <a href="#fig_131">Fig. 131</a>. First the +two side pieces are cut out to the shape +shown. In this particular instance the +over-all length of the sides is 39<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub></span> inches. +This is called a meter boat, and is built with +this length to conform with the English racing +rules. Next a bow piece is cut out, and +this is produced from solid wood. Only +two materials are used in the construction +of this hull, aluminum and mahogany. +Square mahogany strips are cut out and +fastened inside of the side pieces by means<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +of shellac and <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch brass brads. The +bottom of the hull is made of 22-gage sheet +aluminum. This is fastened to the square +mahogany strips, since the sides of the boat +are entirely too thin for this purpose. The +method of fastening the strips of aluminum +will be made evident by referring to <a href="#fig_132">Fig. 132</a> +. The aluminum bottom does not run +completely over the bow piece, but merely +overlaps it sufficiently to be fastened by brass +brads, as illustrated in <a href="#fig_135">Fig. 135</a>. The single<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> +step in the bottom of the boat is fastened by +a mahogany strip, through which the stern-tube +runs and the water-scoop. The back +of the boat is made up of mahogany. A +small aluminum hood is bent to shape, and +this is fastened to the bow of the boat and +prevents the boat from shipping water.</p> + +<p>In building a hull of this nature the mechanic +should exercise care to see that it is +in perfect balance, and that the sides are +finished and varnished as smoothly as possible. +This will cut down both air and water +resistance. The position of the propeller +strut and stern-tube will be seen by referring +to the drawing of the hull in <a href="#fig_131">Fig. 131</a>.</p> + +<p>The propeller of a high-speed boat is of a +high pitch and generally of the two-blade +type. It should be at least 3 inches in diameter +and with a pitch of about 10 inches. +By this it is meant that the propeller theoretically +should advance 10 inches through the +water for one revolution. The rudder is +generally fastened in one position, in case +the boat is not used on a string and pole. +It will be found advisable, however, always +to run the boat in this way, and in such cases<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +the rudder can be entirely dispensed with.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_133" id="fig_133"></a> +<img src="images/i_180.png" width="450" height="137" alt="Fig. 133" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The boiler of a flash steam plant is extremely +simple. Such a boiler is shown in +<a href="#fig_133">Fig. 133</a>. It consists merely of a coil of +copper or Shelby steel tubing with an internal +diameter of <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch. The boiler coils +should be wound around a circular form of +wood about 2<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches in diameter. In the +case of copper it will not be found very +difficult to do this, providing the copper is +heated before being wound on the wooden +form. If the copper is heated it is advisable +to wind the wood with a layer of sheet asbestos +before the copper tube is wound on. +It is almost necessary to do this winding +with a lathe, but if the mechanic does not +have access to such a tool he may have to +find other means of doing it, or possibly he +can take it to a local machine shop and have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +the work done for a few cents. The boiler +coil should be wound about 9 inches long.</p> + +<p>A casing of Russian sheet iron is made +to slip over the boiler, leaving sufficient space +between. Ventilating holes or slots are cut +in the cover to permit of a free circulation +of air. The boiler covering is also provided +with a funnel through which the exhaust +gases from the blow-lamp pass.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_134" id="fig_134"></a><a name="fig_135" id="fig_135"></a> +<img src="images/i_181.png" width="450" height="159" alt="Fig. 134" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The blow-lamp used operates on the same +principle as the ordinary blow-torch. The +details of such a lamp are given in <a href="#fig_134">Fig. 134</a>, +and a finished torch is shown in <a href="#fig_135">Fig. 135</a>. +Instead of making the valves necessary for +the blow-torch, it is advisable to purchase +them, for they are very difficult to make +accurately. The valve at the back of the +torch regulates the gasolene supply that +passes through the nipple. The hole in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> +nipple should be about twenty thousandths +of an inch. Owing to the fact that the +copper coil wound about the burner is short, +the tube can be filled with molten resin before +it is bent. In this way the tube will not +kink or lose its shape while being wound. +After it is wound it is placed in the fire and +the molten resin forced out with a bicycle-pump. +Such a blow-torch produces a tremendous +heat and throws a hot flame far up +into the boiler coils.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>SAILING YACHTS</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>BEFORE attempting to construct model +sailing yachts the young worker should +become thoroughly conversant with the different +types of yachts and their fittings. In +the following pages the author briefly outlines +the general science of yacht-making +and sailing.</div> + +<p>Sailing yachts are made in four principal +types. There is the cutter rig, yawl rig, +sloop rig, and the ketch rig. The cutter rig +is shown in <a href="#fig_136">Fig. 136</a>. It consists of four +sails so arranged that the top-sail may be +either removed altogether or replaced by +sails of smaller area. In all yachts it is +necessary to haul the sails up into position +by ropes known as halyards. The halyards +must be led down to the deck. The model-builder, +however, can dispense with much of +the gear used on larger boats.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> + +<p>A sloop rig is illustrated in <a href="#fig_137">Fig. 137</a>. By +studying the drawing the worker will see +that the sloop rig differs from the cutter rig +only in that she carries a single sail forward +of her mast.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_136" id="fig_136"></a><a name="fig_137" id="fig_137"></a> +<img src="images/i_184.png" width="400" height="340" alt="Fig. 137" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The yawl rig (See <a href="#fig_138">Fig. 138</a>) is similar to +a cutter rig, but has a small sail set up on +another mast abaft the mainsail. The sheet +is led aft to a spar that projects beyond the +counter. The mast upon which the smaller +sail is set is known as the mizzenmast. In +this rig it will be seen that the main boom +must be made considerably shorter than was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> +the case in the cutter rig. This is done so +that it will not follow the mizzenmast when +it swings from one position to another.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 195px;"><a name="fig_138" id="fig_138"></a><a name="fig_139" id="fig_139"></a> +<img src="images/i_185.png" width="195" height="325" alt="Fig. 138" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The ketch rig differs greatly from the +yawl rig. The mizzenmast always occupies +a position forward of the rudder-post. In +the yawl the mizzenmast is always stepped +aft of the rudder-post. This will be seen by +referring to the drawings of the two boats. +The ketch rig is illustrated in <a href="#fig_139">Fig. 139</a>.</p> + +<p>The prettiest rig of all is the schooner; +but, owing to the fact that it is difficult to +get them to go well to windward unless the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> +hull is perfectly rigged, the author has decided +not to deal with this type of boat. +When the reader becomes proficient in building +and sailing the simpler types described +in this book, he may turn his attention to +the construction and sailing of more complicated +types.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><i>Model Yacht Parts</i></div> + +<p>The submerged portion of a yacht is, as +in all other boats, termed the hull. The +backbone of the hull is called the keelson. +Attached to the keelson is a piece of lead, +which is put in place to give the boat stability +and power to resist the heeling movement +created by the wind-pressure upon the +sails. This is known as the keel.</p> + +<p>Yachts always have an opening in the +deck giving access to the interior of the hull. +These openings are known as hatchways. +When sailing in rough weather the hatchway +is closed by a hatch to prevent the yacht +from shipping water.</p> + +<p>The extreme forward end of a yacht hull +is called the stern, while the portions forward<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +and aft of the midships section are +known as the fore and after-body respectively.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/engine.jpg" width="500" height="341" alt="A TWIN CYLINDER STEAM ENGINE FOR MODEL MARINE USE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A TWIN CYLINDER STEAM ENGINE FOR MODEL MARINE USE<br /> +This engine will drive a boat several feet long</span> +</div> + + +<p>In all yachts a portion of the hull extends +out over the water. These portions are +known as overhangs. The overhang aft is +sometimes called the counter-stern. The +sides of the hull that rise above the deck are +called bulwarks, and the part of the bulwarks +that cross the stern is called the taffrail. +The taffrail is always pierced with +holes to allow water to run off the deck +quickly, so that the additional weight will +not in any way affect the course of the boat. +It is understood that yachts raise great quantities +of water upon their decks when traveling +in rough sea.</p> + +<p>The bowsprit is passed through a ring at +the top of the stern, and this ring is termed +the gammon iron. Its end is secured in a +socket or between a pair of uprights called +the bowsprit bits. These are fixed to the +deck. Metal bars are fixed a short distance +above the deck to take rings attached to the +sheets. This is done so that the sails may +swing freely from one side of the boat to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> +other. Metal eyes are screwed into the sides +to take the shrouds, and are called chain-plates. +The eye in the stern is called the +bobstay plate. In the stern-post are two +eyes called gudgeons. The rudder is hooked +to this by means of two hooks called pintles. +The bar or lever that is fixed to the top of +the rudder-post is called a tiller.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> +<img src="images/boat.jpg" width="360" height="500" alt="A CUP-WINNING MODEL SAIL BOAT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CUP-WINNING MODEL SAIL BOAT<br /> +Designed and constructed by the commodore of the +Central Park Model Yacht Club, New York, N. Y.</span> +</div> + + + +<p>The parts and fittings of a mast follow: +the step, the head, the caps, crosstrees, truck, +topmast, boom, and gaff. The part of the +gaff that rests on the mast is called the +throat; the end of the gaff is called the peak. +The jib-boom is a term used only in connection +with model yachts. In larger boats the +jib-boom is an extension of the bowsprit. +The small boom that projects over the stern +of a yawl is called the bumpkin. The spar +is rather a general term applied to practically +all wooden supports of sails. The spar +of a lug-sail is called the yard. It is different +from a boom or gaff, by reason of its lying +against the mast instead of having one +end butting on the mast. Anything belonging +to the mainmast should be distinguished +by the prefix main. Thus, there are the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> +mainsail, the mainboom, main-topsail, etc.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 293px;"><a name="fig_140" id="fig_140"></a> +<img src="images/i_189.png" width="293" height="300" alt="Fig. 140" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A sail for a model cutter-rigged yacht is +shown in <a href="#fig_140">Fig. 140</a>. The bowsprit and masts +are, when necessary, given support by ropes +that are stretched tightly to some point +where they can be conveniently anchored to +the hull. The following are those largely +used on model yachts: topmast stay, bobstay, +topmast shrouds, and forestay.</p> + +<p>The sails are pulled up and fastened by +ropes termed halyards. The halyards are +fastened to the upper portions of the sail, +and they are named according to the sail to +which they are attached. For instance,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +there is the jib halyard and the foresail halyard. +A mainsail carried by a gaff has two +halyards, the throat and peak. The movement +of the sails is controlled by ropes, called +sheets, which take their names from the +sails they control. There is a mainsheet, a +jibsheet, and a foresheet. The reader +should take note of this term and refrain +from confusing it with the sails.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><i>Sailing Model Yachts</i></div> + +<p>The sailing of model yachts is a real art, +and the author warns the reader that he cannot +hope to become a proficient yachtsman +by merely digesting the information given +in this book. His real knowledge must be +earned by experience in handling a model +yacht on the water. However, there are +few sports that will afford more pleasure +than that of sailing model yachts. Being +an outdoor sport it is very healthful.</p> + +<p>In sailing a model yacht the sails are set, +or "trimmed," so that she will continue to +sail along the course previously decided upon +by the yachtsman. She must do this in as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +speedy a manner as possible and with as +little deviation from her original course as +possible. The trim of the sails will depend +upon the wind. If the boat is to sail against +the wind, that is termed "beating to windward"; +with the wind is called "scudding." +With the wind sideways it is called "reaching." +If the boat is sailed with the wind +blowing midway between one of the sides +and the stern in such a way that it sweeps +from one side of the stern across the deck, +this is called "three-quarter sailing" in a +"quartering" wind. A model yacht will +continue for a great distance on a reach or +while scudding; but, on the other hand, it +will not be possible for her to sail directly +against the wind. If a yachtsman is to +make headway against the wind, he must +sail his boat as near dead against the wind +as it will go.</p> + +<p>The cutter type of yacht will move against +a wind that is blowing at a very small angle +on her bowsprit. As soon as she reaches +the limit of her course, the yachtsman turns +her bow at a small angle so as to bring the +wind on the opposite side of the vessel, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> +in this way a second course is started. +These courses are repeated in a zigzag +fashion until the yacht arrives at her destination. +This zigzagging, or "tacking," as +it is called, is illustrated in <a href="#fig_141">Fig. 141</a>. It will +be seen that the yacht starts at <i>B</i>, and makes +3 tacks before she arrives at her destination, +<i>A</i>. Each time she touches the shore she is +"put about" and set upon a new course, or +"tack."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_141" id="fig_141"></a> +<img src="images/i_192.png" width="400" height="138" alt="Fig. 141" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>It will be understood that tacking is slow +work, and a greater distance must be traveled +than would be covered by a power-boat, +which would be able to go in a straight line. +However, with wind-propelled craft this is +the only way in which progress can be made +against the wind. The left-hand side of a +yacht viewed from the stern is called the +port side, while the right-hand side is called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +the starboard side. Thus a yacht sailing +with the wind blowing on her port side is on +the port tack, while if the wind is blowing +on the starboard side she is said to be on the +starboard tack. From this the reader will +see that <a href="#fig_142">Fig. 142</a> shows an impossible case.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 249px;"><a name="fig_142" id="fig_142"></a><a name="fig_143" id="fig_143"></a><a name="fig_144" id="fig_144"></a><a name="fig_145" id="fig_145"></a> +<img src="images/i_193.png" width="249" height="425" alt="Fig. 142" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The sails in front of the mast that are +placed nearest the stern of the yacht act in +such a manner as to turn the bows in the direction +of the arrow, as illustrated in Fig.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> +146, and the sail or sails abaft the mast turn +the boat in the direction of the arrow <i>A</i>. +The boat thus revolves upon the center of +the mast much as a weathercock revolves +upon its pivot. If there is more than one +mast, all the sails carried abaft the mainmast +serve to turn the boat in the direction +<i>A</i>. The work of sailing depends greatly +upon the skill in balancing these two effects +so that the boat will progress in a straight +line. To do this the sails are set in a greater +or less angle in relation to the center line of +the boat. The less the angle that a sail +makes with the center line of the boat, the +greater is its power to determine in which +direction the boat will steer. The more the +yachtsman slackens out his jib and foresail, +or the smaller he makes these sails, the less +their power will be to turn the boat in the +direction <i>B</i>. On the other hand, the larger +they are and the more tightly they are pulled +in, the greater will be their power. When +the mainsail and all of the sails abaft the +mainsail are slackened out and the smaller +they are made, the less their power will be +to swing the boat in the direction <i>A</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> + +<p>The influence of a sail upon the speed of +a boat also increases with the angle that it +makes with the center line of the hull. The +more the yachtsman slackens out his sail, +the more it will help the boat along. The +reader will see that these two conditions interfere +with each other, and therefore the +trimming of the sails becomes a compromise. +It is good for the young yachtsman to remember +to sail his boat with the sails as +slack as possible, as long as she keeps a good +course. He should also remember not to +overload her with sails, since the nearer to +an upright position she maintains the faster +she will go.</p> + +<p>It is not possible to depend entirely upon +the trim of the sails to keep a model in a +given course. This is because the strength +of the wind varies so that the sails are in +balance one moment and out of balance the +next. The sails abaft the mainmast overpower +the sails before it when the wind increases. +The result of this is that the bow +of the boat will be repeatedly turned in the +direction <i>A</i>, <a href="#fig_146">Fig. 146</a>.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 319px;"><a name="fig_146" id="fig_146"></a><a name="fig_147" id="fig_147"></a><a name="fig_148" id="fig_148"></a> +<img src="images/i_196.png" width="319" height="500" alt="Fig. 146" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Some form of automatic rudder is therefore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +generally used to overcome this tendency +of the yacht to "luff" in the wind. <a href="#fig_147">Fig. 147</a> + shows the course of a yacht reaching +from <i>A</i> to <i>B</i>. The dotted lines show the +course she should follow. The full line +shows the effect of puffs of wind, which repeatedly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> +take her out of her course. Many +times she may completely turn around and +make a similar course back to the starting-point, +as in <a href="#fig_148">Fig. 148</a>. There is also the +danger of her being taken back when pointing +directly against the wind—the wind will +force her backward stern first for some distance, +as illustrated in <a href="#fig_149">Fig. 149</a>. She will +do this until she manages to get around on +one tack or the other.</p> + +<p>The dotted line <i>B</i> illustrates the course in +which she would be driven under these conditions. +It is not practical to sail a model +yacht dead before the wind without an automatic +rudder. With the use of an automatic +rudder the erratic movements shown +in <a href="#fig_148">Fig. 148</a> can be entirely overcome. The +action of the rudder is such that every time +the boat leans over to luff up into the wind, +the weight of the rudder causes it to swing +out, and thus prevents her from losing her +course. As a different type of rudder is required, +according to the course in which the +yacht is sailing, the weight should be adjustable +if the same rudder is used.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="fig_149" id="fig_149"></a><a name="fig_150" id="fig_150"></a><a name="fig_152" id="fig_152"></a> +<img src="images/i_198.png" width="500" height="371" alt="Fig. 149" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Let us consider scudding before the wind.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> +For scudding the heaviest rudder should be +used, or the weight on a loaded tiller should +be in its position of maximum power. All +the sails abaft the foremast should be slackened +out as far as they will go, which will +bring the booms almost at right angles with +the center line of the boat. If the craft is +a cutter or yawl with a light weight, the +yachtsman should rig the spinnaker. The +head-sails may be left slack or can be tightened. +<a href="#fig_150">Fig. 150</a> shows the position of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> +booms when scudding with a schooner and +yawl. The yawl is shown scudding goose winged. +The cutter is illustrated with the +spinnaker set. The other craft is a two-mast +lugger with balanced lugs.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"><a name="fig_151" id="fig_151"></a> +<img src="images/i_199.png" width="200" height="166" alt="Fig. 151" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Attention is now directed to "reaching." +For this particular work the yachtsman +should put on a medium rudder. When using +a weighted tiller the weight should be put +in a midway position. The head-sails +should be pulled in fairly tight and the aft-sails +made slack. The yachtsman, however, +should not slacken them as for scudding. +<a href="#fig_151">Fig. 151</a> shows a schooner reaching. The +thick black lines represent the booms of the +sails. If the wind is very light a spinnaker-jib +may be set or a jib-topsail in light or +moderate breezes. In the case of a wind<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> +that comes over the stern quarter, as indicated +by the arrow <i>A</i>, the next heavier +rudder, or its equivalent in weighted tiller, +should be put in operation, and the sails +slackened out a little more than before. +The boat is then said to be free and sailing +on the starboard tack. If the wind is coming +in the direction <i>B</i> the jib and foresail +may require slackening and the aft sails +pulled in more than when sailing with the +wind in the direction <i>C</i>. A still lighter +rudder can be used as the course gets near +to beating windward, and the yacht is said +to be close-hauled on the starboard tack.</p> + +<p>In beating to windward, if a rudder is +used at all, it should be as light as possible, +just heavy enough to keep the boat steady. +However, this is just the condition of sailing +when a boat can dispense with a rudder. It +depends entirely upon the characteristics of +the particular yacht being sailed, and for +this the yachtsman must depend upon his +own experience. The jib-topsail should not +be used in a case like this, and if the wind +is fairly strong a smaller jib should be set +than that used for reaching. It is advisable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> +to slacken the jib and foresail out and pull +the aft-sails in somewhat tightly. <a href="#fig_152">Fig. 152</a> +shows a cutter beating to windward on a +port tack. In this case she will have to pay +out to starboard a bit before her sails fill.</p> + +<p>In sailing the weather must be watched +very closely, and the amount of sail carried +will depend entirely upon the weather conditions. +A yacht should never be overloaded +with sail. If she has more than she +can comfortably carry she will heel over and +drag her sails in the water. Not only this, +but she will also drift to leeward when beating +to windward. When sailing a new boat, +her best trim for various points of sailing +and force of wind must be found by painstaking +experiments. The boat should always +be sailed with her sails as slack as she +will take them and keep in her course. In +this way she will move faster than when the +sails are pulled in close.</p> + +<p>The model yachtsman should always +watch the wind and note whether it shifts +its direction or alters its force. The boat +is trimmed accordingly when the boat is put +about. Easing or tightening the jib or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> +main-sheet slightly will make a very noticeable +difference.</p> + +<p>By taking down the top-sail or setting a +jib-head top-sail in place of a jack yard top-sail, +the yacht will be caused to ride easier +in puffs of wind. In case she does not point +well to windward when beating, the yachtsman +should try a smaller jib, or he can +slacken the foresail-sheet. If she runs off +regularly to leeward on one tack only, while +keeping well to windward on the other, she +has some defect in construction or a bent +keel.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>TWO-FOOT SAILING YACHT</h3> + + +<div class='cap'>THE model yacht described in this Chapter +is the design of Mr. W. J. Daniels, +of England, and was described by him in +"Junior Mechanics." Mr. Daniels is one of +the best known and most successful English +designers of model yachts, and the one here +described can easily be constructed by the +average boy:</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>In order that the reader may realize the obstacles +to be surmounted in designing a model yacht that +will sail in a straight line to windward, irrespective +of the different pressure that the wind may expend +on the sails, it must be pointed out that the boat +is continuously altering the shape of the submerged +part of her hull: therefore, unless the hull is so designed +that harmony is retained at every angle to +which the pressure of wind on the sails may heel it, +the model's path through the water will be, more or +less, an arc of a circle. Whether the boat sails toward +the wind, or, in other words, in a curve the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +center of the circle of which is on the same side of +the boat as the wind, or in a curve the center of the +circle of which is on the opposite or leeward side, +will depend upon the formation of the boat.</p> + +<p>As these notes are intended to first initiate the +reader into the subject of model yacht building and +construction, the design supplied is one in which all +things, as far as shape is concerned, have been considered.</p> + +<p>It is the endeavor of every designer to produce +the most powerful boat possible for a given length—that +is, one that can hold her sail up in resistance +to the wind-pressure best. Of course, the reader +will easily realize that breadth and weight of keel +will be the main features that will enable the model +to achieve this object; but, as these two factors +are those that tend to make a design less slender, if +pushed to extremes, the designer has to compromise +at a point when the excess of beam and buoyancy +are <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'deterimental'">detrimental</ins> to the speed lines of the +hull.</p> + +<p>But the question of design pure and simple is +a complex one, and we do not intend to weary the +reader just now with anything of that kind, so we +will now proceed to build the hull. In order that +we may correctly interpret the shape shown in the +design without being expert woodcarvers, we must +use our ingenuity and by mechanical means achieve +our object, at the same time saving ourselves a +large amount of labor, such as we should have to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +expend if we made this boat from a solid block of +wood.</p> + +<p>Now, as regards understanding the drawings: it +is essential to remember that a line which in one +view is a curve is always a straight line in the +other two views. Those lines which are drawn +parallel to the water-line are known as water-lines, +and it will be seen that the curves shown on the +deck plan represent the actual shapes of the hull +at the corresponding water-lines above, below, and +exactly on the load water-line. In other words, +if after the hull is made it were sunk down to these +various levels, the shapes of the hole made in +the surface of the water would be as shown in the +plan.</p> + +<p>Therefore, instead of making our boat from a +solid block of wood, we will make our block up +from several layers, the thickness of each layer +being equal to the space between the water-lines; +but before gluing these layers together we will cut +them out to the exact shape that the boat will be +at their various positions.</p> + +<p>It will not be necessary to have a separate piece +of wood for each layer, as some layers below the +actual water-line will be cut from the pieces of +wood that have been cut out from the layers above.</p> + +<p>In this case, the boat being 24 inches long, the +top layer will be the same length and breadth as the +boat, and 1 inch in thickness.</p> + +<p>Draw down the center of the board a straight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> +line, and other lines square to it, representing the +position of the cross-sections as shown in the drawing. +You have now to transfer the deck line to this +board, and this is done by marking the breadth at +the various sections and drawing a curve through +the spots, a thin strip of straight-grained wood +being used as a rule, the latter being held down +by such weights as are available. For the purpose +of laying off the water-lines truly, lines spaced at +1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches are shown; the first, it will be noticed, is +half a section or <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch from the stem head.</p> + +<p>The material required will be a board of pine +about 6 feet long, 8 inches wide, and 1 inch finished +thickness.</p> + +<p>Nearly all wood-yards stock first-quality pine, but +it is in planks 3 inches thick. You can no doubt +pick up a short length about 4 feet long.</p> + +<p>If so, take it to a sawmill and have two boards +1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches thick cut and then machine-planed down +to a dead inch. Perhaps you can purchase a board +that is already cut, and is fully 1 inch thick, to allow +for planing.</p> + +<p>Prepare one edge of the board straight with a +plane, seeing that it is square to the surface.</p> + +<p>As a planing-machine always leaves a series of +ridges across the board, varying according to the +quality of the machine, it is necessary before transferring +the lines to the wood to just skim the surface +with a nicely sharpened plane, and set so as to +just skim the wood.</p></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fig_153" id="fig_153"></a> +<img src="images/i_207.png" width="550" height="338" alt="Fig. 153" title="" /> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The lengths required are: <i>A</i>, plank 24 inches +long; <i>B</i>, plank 24 inches; <i>C</i>, plank 18<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches.</p> + +<p>The <i>D</i> plank will be cut from the center of <i>B</i>, +but will have to be shifted two sections forward.</p> + +<p>Having transferred the various shapes from the +drawing on to their respective layers, you saw out +each carefully with a bow or a keyhole-saw, care +being taken not to cut inside the lines. It is better +to cut full, and trim down to the lines with a +chisel or plane. A good deal of trouble can be +saved by the expenditure of a few cents for having +them machine-sawed, in which case ask the +sawyer to use his finest-toothed saw.</p> + +<p>Having cut out layers <i>A</i>, <i>B</i>, <i>C</i>, and <i>D</i>, fresh lines +are marked, as shown by the dotted lines in the +plan. These indicate the shape of the inside of +each layer when the boat is carved out, and save +labor.</p> + +<p>These may as well be sawed out now as carved +out later. It will also facilitate gluing up, as it +will allow the superfluous glue to be squeezed out, +and also decrease the breadth of the joint.</p> + +<p>In order to get these various layers glued together +dead true to their positions as indicated in +the design, you must choose a section about amidships, +say section 11, and with a square draw a line +from that section, which is, of course, still showing +on the surface of the layer, down the edge on +either side, joining up with a line across the opposite +face. Also vertical lines at each end of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +midships line must be drawn on the wood, great care +being taken to get the midships line on the under +face of the layers dead opposite each other.</p></div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 297px;"><a name="fig_154" id="fig_154"></a><a name="fig_155" id="fig_155"></a> +<img src="images/i_209.png" width="297" height="500" alt="Fig. 154" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>If your outfit contains half a dozen carpenter's +hand screws, these can be used; but if not, it will +be necessary to purchase from a hardware store<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> +eight seven-inch bolts and nuts <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in diameter, +with one washer for each, and to make up four +clamps, as shown in <a href="#fig_156">Fig. 156</a>.</p></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_156" id="fig_156"></a> +<img src="images/i_210.png" width="300" height="272" alt="Fig. 156" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>You will start by gluing layer <i>C</i> to layer <i>D</i>, blocks +being placed between the surface of the layers and +the clamps to prevent bruising the wood. These +two are then glued to layer <i>B</i>, and when this is +thoroughly set they are glued to the layer <i>A</i>. The +best glue to use for this job is marine glue, which +does not dry too quickly, and so gives plenty of time +to see that the layers have not shifted. In every +case one clamp should be placed at each extreme end +of the shorter layer, so as to insure the ends making +contact, the other two being placed equidistant.</p> + +<p>While waiting for the glue to set, you can be +preparing the four layers (shown below <i>D</i>) for the +lead keel pattern. The lines must be cut out, in +this case, with a chisel, as it will be noticed that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> +lower faces must be left wide enough to receive the +top face of the layer beneath it.</p> + +<p>It will be noticed that the under face of each of +these layers extends beyond the top face aft, and +allowance must be made for this. On laying off +the lines on the fin layers, do not join up with a +point each end, but leave about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch thickness, +as shown on the drawing.</p> + +<p>These layers must be drilled through to take the +keel-bolts, which are made from two motorcycle +spokes, twelve-gage. These should be cut to a +length of 5<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> or 6 inches. Great care should be +taken to insure that the midship lines are exactly +vertical over each other when these layers are glued +up.</p> + +<p>Before gluing these four layers on to the hull +proper, they should be held in position by means of +the spokes, in which position they can be sawed to +shape for the keel pattern. First, with a small plane +or sharp chisel cut down roughly, then a rasp and +different grades of sandpaper are used, working +across the joints.</p> + +<p>It will be realized that, if the pattern for the +keel were cut off dead on the line indicated on the +design, there would be a loss of wood through the +saw cut. In order to obviate this, another line +<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch below the proper lead line is drawn, and +the saw cut made between these two lines. You +will now plane down each face that is left rough by +the saw, straight and square to each of these lines.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> +On the top face of the pattern for the lead, glue +or tack a piece <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch thick along the face, and +cut down the edges flush.</p> + +<p>You will by this means have made up for the +amount of wood carried away by the saw. You +will no doubt find a difficulty in holding the pieces +of wood for planing in the ordinary way, but it is +simple enough if you set the plane nicely, grip it in +a vise or bench screw upside down, and push the +work over the plane's face, instead of vice versa. +But be careful of your fingers!</p> + +<p>Take the pieces left from the spokes when cutting +down to length, and put these in the holes in +the keel pattern. These are for cores, and if you +take your pattern to a foundry they will cast it for +a small amount, with the holes in it.</p> + +<p>Shoot the top face of the lead in the manner before +described, and fit on. The hull is now ready +for carving out. Screw on your bench two pieces +of wood about 18 inches in length and 4 inches wide, +so that they project over the edge of the bench +about 10 inches. These should be about 15 inches +apart. Place your hull upside down on them, and +fix it by nailing upward into the top layer. After +cutting off the corners of the layers roughly with +a chisel you use a small plane set fairly fine, and +work all over the hull evenly, taking care not to +cut below any of the joints. A small gouge will +be required to clear the wood from the region of +the after fin, a round rasp—sandpaper being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +wrapped around a small stick—being used for +smoothing down afterward.</p> + +<p>Templates of the cross-sections should now be +made from thick white paper. This is done by +pricking through the design to transfer their shape +onto the paper. The cross-sections have on this +account been produced here actual size. If cross-lines +representing the water-lines are drawn, you +will have an excellent guide for fitting, as these +lines will, of course, come opposite each glued joint.</p> + +<p>Try your templates now and again as you work, +and do not try to finish one spot, but keep the +whole at an even stage, and you will see the hull +gradually grow into shape.</p> + +<p>The topsides (which is the name given to that +part of the vessel's hull above the water-line) are +responsible for the boat's appearance when afloat, +and until the top sheer is cut off the boat looks very +disappointing. The cross-lines being still on the +upper layer, draw square lines from them down +the topsides and from the drawing mark the points +through which the sheer-line runs. The thickness +of the deck must be allowed for, and as this will +be just over <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch, the line must be drawn this +much below the finished sheer-line. The arch of +the transom must be marked, and the hull cut down +to the sheer. To avoid the risk of splitting, a number +of fine saw cuts are made down each section line +and two or three at the transom.</p> + +<p>You now proceed to carve out the inside. Pad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> +your bench bearers and rest your hull upon them. +A curved wood gouge with a fairly flat edge is the +best tool. Get it nicely sharpened, and work all +over the inside of hull until it is about <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch thick, +the top edge being left <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch wide.</p> + +<p>Keep holding up to the light until it is showing +a blood-red color, and smooth down the gouge marks +with coarse sandpaper.</p> + +<p>The hole for the stern-tube must now be drilled, +and the tube made and fitted. The hole should be +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in diameter. First drill a smaller hole, and +then with a <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch rat-tail file slowly open it out, +at the same time rubbing a groove down the stern-post. +The stern-tube is made from a piece of light-gage +brass tube, it being cut away with a piercing +saw to leave a strip the length of the stern-post. +Drill three holes in the strip at equal distance and +large enough to take a <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch brass screw, No. 0 +size. Temporarily screw the tube in position, and +from a piece of thin brass make a plate for the inside. +An oval hole will have to be made in the +plate to enable it to seat flat over the tube. Solder +this while in position. Then remove the whole, and +replace, after white-leading where wood touches +brass.</p> + +<p>The deck-beams, three in number and <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch +square in section, must now be fitted. The sheer +edge which we left <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch wide must be recessed +to receive the beams, the recess being made with +a <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span>-inch chisel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span></p> + +<p>Before gluing beams in, three coats of good varnish +must be applied to the inside of shell.</p> + +<p>The deck should now be prepared and fitted. +You will require a piece of pine of ample length +and breadth, <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in thickness, and after planing +finely and sand-papering, pieces of the same stuff +should be glued on the under face to reinforce it +where the bowsprit, keel-plate, hatch rim, and mast +will be fitted. Cut these pieces to shape before +gluing on.</p> + +<p>Before doing the latter, apply a coat of clear +size to the upper face of the deck; this will bring +up the grain, so paper it down when dry. This +process should be repeated three times.</p> + +<p>Three coats of varnish should be given to the +under side of the deck after the pieces have been +glued on, and when dry the deck can be fitted, +<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span>-inch veneer pins being used for fixing on, and care +being taken to get it true to position. A center line +is drawn down the under side of the deck, and +marks made to correspond at the stern and transom +on the shell.</p> + +<p>The planking lines on the deck can be drawn to +suit your fancy, India ink and a draftsman's ruling +pen being used to do it, afterward applying two +coats of carriage varnish.</p> + +<p>To paint the hull, white lead and dryers, in the +proportion of 5 to 1 by weight respectively, should +be dissolved in turpentine, a few drops of linseed +oil being mixed to make it work freely. Have this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> +about the consistency of milk, and, after straining, +give the hull about eight coats, one every twenty-four +hours, rubbing each down when dry with No. +00 sandpaper. Keep the joint representing the load +water-line always in sight by penciling over after +each coat of paint is dry. When a sufficient body +of paint has been applied, the colors can be applied. +Enamel is best for this. Stick strips of gummed +paper around the hull at the water-line, and paint +up to the edge. When the paint is dry the paper +can be soaked off, the paper being again applied, +but reversed for the other color. If you can use a +lining brush the paper is not necessary for the +second color.</p> + +<p>While the painting is going on, spars, sails, and +fittings can be made. As the spars have to be varnished, +it is best to make them first. Pine should +be used, and after cutting strips of suitable length +and diameter, plane them square in section. With +the batten draw on the face the amount of taper +to be given, and plane down to this line, still keeping +the spar square in section. This having been +done, the corners are planed off carefully until the +spar is octagonal in section, when it is easy to make +it perfectly round with sandpaper by rubbing with +the paper rolled around the stick. The diameter of +our mast is <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch parallel until the hoist of the +fore triangle is reached, tapering from there to <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> +inch at the masthead or truck. The boom is <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> +inch at the gooseneck, thickening to <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +the main-sheet is attached, down to <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch at the +outboard end. The jib-boom is slightly less than +<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch parallel.</p> + +<p>All spars should be treated with clear size and +fine sandpaper before varnishing. This will prevent +discoloring by the latter, and will also allow +the India ink markings to be made, which latter +will be a guide for the trimming of the sails.</p> + +<p>In order that any yacht, model or otherwise, may +be able to perform her best, it is essential that she +should have well setting sails. In fact, in a model +a badly setting sail will sometimes even be enough +to prevent her going to windward at all. By well +setting sails we mean sails that are naturally flat and +not made so by straining them out on the spars. +Light material, such as cambric or light union silk, +is best for this purpose, but not a material that has +any dressing in it.</p> + +<p>This particular sail plan is very easy to mark out. +Lay your material out on a table or smooth surface +and pin it down with drawing-pins, sufficiently +stretching it so as to pull out any creases. The +length of the back edge of the mainsail (which is +called the leech) is measured off 1<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inches inside the +edge of the cloth, and a curve struck as illustrated. +The other two sides of the mainsail are then laid +off and pencil lines drawn. You will note that allowance +must be made for hemming the back edge +of the mainsail. If your sewing-machine has a +hemmer, find out how wide a hem it makes (the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +smaller the better), and make allowance accordingly, +twice the width of the hem being necessary. +Much depends upon the tension at which the machine +is set, so be careful that the latter is sufficiently +slack so that it does not draw up the material.</p> + +<p>The jib is marked out in the same manner, and, +as illustrated, the lines representing the positions +of the batten sleeves are drawn. The batten sleeves +are small pockets into which thin pieces of cane +(called battens) are inserted to help the sail to set +nicely. Unless the sail is a good cut to begin with, +however, the insertion of these battens will never +make it right. The sails should now be cut out +with a sharp penknife or scissors, care being taken +not to pull the cloth, and especially not along the +edges that run across the threads. You then hem +the backs and also the foot of the jib. The batten +sleeves (which should be of white satin ribbon about +<span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch in width) should now be sewn on by stitching +down along the extreme edge to the line drawn, +and then down the other edge, the ends being left +open. A strip of narrow tape is sewn across the +foot of the jib-sail to take the strain of the pull, +the part of the jib contained by the curve of the +foot and the tape being known as the bonnet of +the jib.</p> + +<p>To prevent the edges of the sails (other than +those hemmed) being stretched, you bind them with +good tape. The tape is first folded and creased by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> +rubbing over an edge. The end of the tape is then +turned in. Take a corner of the sail and place it +inside the fold of the tape, care being taken to get +the raw edge right up against the crease. The +needle of the machine should then be lowered +through it as near to the edge of the tape as practicable, +taking care that it goes through both edges. +Keeping a slight pull on the binding, arrange the +cloth in it without pulling the edge. Put the foot +of the machine down and sew it, afterward raising +the foot again and proceeding as before right +around the raw edges of the sail, leaving the needle +down each time the foot is raised. Do not sew +where a batten sleeve passes under the binding, as +you will require the former left open to allow the +batten to pass into the fold of the binding. The +rings for putting up the luffs of the jib- and main-sail +are made by winding a piece of thin brass or +German silver wire around a steel rod (the spokes +used in the keel being suitable for the latter) and +sawing down to divide them. A small eyelet should +be put in each corner of the sails, and others spaced +evenly at about 2<span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches apart along the boom +and about 5 inches apart along the mast, for lacing +on. An extra row of stitching may be run +down the outer edge of the binding to smooth it +down.</p> + +<p>The simpler the fittings of a model that is required +for practical sailing, the better. They should +be as light as practical. Aluminum is not advisable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> +for fittings when the boat is to be sailed in salt +water.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_157" id="fig_157"></a> +<img src="images/i_220.png" width="400" height="429" alt="Fig. 157" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The bowsprit fittings, which are known as the +gammon iron and heel plate (<a href="#fig_157">Figs. 157</a>, <a href="#fig_158">158</a>), are +made by soldering pieces of brass tube (cut to suitable +size and shape) onto pieces of triangular sheet +brass, as illustrated. The horses can either be of +wire with the ends turned to suitable shape and +fitted with one screw, or they can have plates for +two screws, in which case the wire is either threaded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> +and screwed into the plate or silver-soldered to it. +Silver-soldering is done with a blow-pipe. The flux +used is borax made into a thin paste with water. +Silver-solder is bought in small sheets, and a few +cents' worth will go a long way if used properly. +Cut small pieces about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inch by <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch, and, after +painting the part to be soldered with your paste +borax with a very small brush, pick up the solder +with the tip of the brush and put it in position. It +will then run around the joint when the metal is +raised to sufficient heat.</p></div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 210px;"><a name="fig_158" id="fig_158"></a> +<img src="images/i_221.png" width="210" height="300" alt="Fig. 158" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The hatch-rim is made by cutting a strip of thin +brass <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in width, the length being the circumference +of the oval. The two ends are brought together +and silver-soldered. Cut out the oval in a +piece of very thin brass and fit in your oval strip +so that the flat is just in the center of it. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> +can then be sweated around with an ordinary +soldering-iron, the flat being trimmed down afterward +with the shears to leave a flange <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch in +width, the latter being drilled to take <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub></span> inch No. 0 +round-head screws.</p></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 280px;"><a name="fig_159" id="fig_159"></a><a name="fig_160" id="fig_160"></a><a name="fig_161" id="fig_161"></a> +<img src="images/i_222.png" width="280" height="234" alt="Fig. 159" title="" /> +</div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The deck fitting for the mast, (Fig. 159) is made +in much the same way, a piece of tube being used +instead of cutting a strip of brass. To receive the +heel of the mast a fitting known as the mast-step +must be made and fitted. This, of course, must be +done before the deck is put on. The step is made +from two pieces of brass, each about <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch in +thickness, 1 inch long and <span class='frac'><sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inch wide. One is +hard-soldered on edge down the center of the +other to form something like a T girder. A slot, +as illustrated, is cut in the upright piece with a +ward file, and holes drilled in the flat for screwing +down on the inside of the boat. A ferrule of +brass tube is fitted to the heel of the mast, a cut of +suitable size being made in it to receive the upright<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> +of the step. A hole should be drilled through the +heel of the mast at right angles to the slot, and a +wire passed through and riveted, the latter being +of suitable thickness to be received by the slot in +the step.</p></div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 220px;"><a name="fig_162" id="fig_162"></a><a name="fig_163" id="fig_163"></a><a name="fig_164" id="fig_164"></a> +<img src="images/i_223.png" width="220" height="300" alt="Fig. 164" title="" /> +</div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The rudder-blade (Fig. 162) is made from a piece +of sheet brass fitted to a tube, the latter being an +easy fit into the stern-tube already fitted. The +blade can be soldered onto the tube. The pintle +on which the rudder fits and swings is a strip of +brass, the width of the after fin, a wire pin being +hard-soldered in to fit up into the rudder.</p> + +<p>The pintle (Fig. 163) should be fitted before +the painting is started.</p> + +<p>In the steering gear, instead of a quadrant, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> +the fitting on the rudder-head of the "Braine" +gear is called, you fit an ordinary tiller (Fig. 164) +by bending a wire to suit your fancy and soldering +it on to a collar made from a piece of tube that +will just sleeve on the outside of the rubber-tube, +which latter is fixed by drilling a hole right through +it and the rudder head, and fitting a tapered pin.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_165" id="fig_165"></a> +<img src="images/i_224a.png" width="300" height="67" alt="Fig. 165" title="" /> +</div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The steering-gear rack (Fig. 165) by which the +amount of helm is adjusted is made from a strip +of brass cut with lugs which are bent up at right +angles as illustrated. This need only be of thin +sheet metal, as the strain is very small.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_166" id="fig_166"></a> +<img src="images/i_224b.png" width="400" height="348" alt="Fig. 166" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>For running before the wind, separate lines are +used, two in number, as illustrated, and the amount +of helm is governed by the distance away from +midships that the lead is moved. For instance, if +the lead is placed amidships, the pull will simply +keep the rudder dead straight, whereas if placed on +the deck edge it will allow the maximum amount +of angle.</p> + +<p>Your bowsers can be made from pieces of toothbrush +handle or from brass or German-silver wire. +Very efficient bowsers can be made from aluminum +tube cut in sections about <span class='frac'><sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch long, with three +holes drilled in each piece around its periphery.</p> + +<p>Plaited bobbin cotton should be used for the +cordage, as it does not curl up when wet.</p> + +<p>If you decide to fit the Braine steering gear, a +spur or bumpkin, as it is termed, must be fitted to +take the rubber centering line.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span></p> +<h2>APPENDIX</h2> + +<h3>BOYS' DICTIONARY OF MARINE TERMS</h3> + + +<div class="hang1"><b>Abaft.</b> Behind; toward the stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Abeam.</b> At right angles to the side and in horizontal +plane.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Aft.</b> Toward the stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>After-body.</b> Between amidships and stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Aloft.</b> Overhead; on the yards or in the upper +rigging.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Amidships.</b> The middle part of a vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Anchor.</b> Instrument for holding vessels at rest +in the water. Made of iron.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Athwart. Athwartships.</b> Across; from side to +side.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Ballast.</b> Material used to load the ship, for stability +or submerging purposes.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Barge.</b> General name for vessels built for towing.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Bark.</b> Three-masted vessel, square-rigged on the +fore- and main-masts, and fore-and-aft rigged +on the mizzen.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Barkentine.</b> Three-masted vessel, square-rigged +on the foremast and fore-and-aft on the main- +and mizzen-masts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Beam.</b> The widest part of a vessel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Bollards.</b> Posts of timber on sides of docks, quays, +etc., over which ropes are thrown for hauling +vessels alongside.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Boom.</b> The lower spar for a fore-and-aft sail.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Bow.</b> Sides of fore part of boat: the right hand +being the starboard bow, and the left hand +the port bow.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Bowsprit.</b> Pole projecting from stem forward, +and taking forestays and bobstays.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Bridge-house.</b> House built near bridge.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Brig.</b> Vessel with two masts, both square-rigged +but having a gaff mainsail.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Buoy.</b> A floating object moored over a certain +spot; generally a warning of danger.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Buoyancy.</b> The capacity for floating which a +boat possesses.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Cabin.</b> Room for use of officers and passengers.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Capstan.</b> Consists of a long drum revolving vertically +and used for pulling in heavy lines. +Sometimes used in connection with windlass +to hoist anchor by hand.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><i>Center of Gravity.</i> Center of weight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Coaming.</b> Raised planking around hatchway of +yacht to prevent water shipped in rough +weather from getting below decks.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Cockpit.</b> Formerly an apartment under lower gun-deck +of warship, used as quarters for junior +officers, and during a battle devoted to the surgeon +and his assistants.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Cockswain.</b> Person who steers a boat.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Compass.</b> Instrument composed of one or more +magnetic needles attached to a circular card +which turns freely on the point of a steel cone +or floats on a liquid. The upper surface of the +card is divided into the 32 points of the compass. +Used to find direction.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Craft.</b> Usually denotes small size vessel, but may +be applied to any kind.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Crane.</b> Machine for hoisting and moving heavy +equipment and material.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Cruiser.</b> Boat intended for extended voyages. +Used in connection with yachts, to distinguish +from racing models.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Davit.</b> Light crane on side of ship for lowering +and lifting boats. Sometimes applied to projecting +beam over which anchor is hoisted.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Displacement.</b> Weight of ship and all on board +when at sea. It is equal to the weight of the +water displaced.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Dock.</b> An excavation of large area for reception +of vessels. Wet-dock for loading and unloading +or dry-dock for building and repairing +vessels.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Dock-yard.</b> A place where ships are built and repaired.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Funnel.</b> Large sheet-iron tube extending from the +uptake high above the deck, through which +smoke and gases pass.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Galley.</b> The kitchen of a vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Gangway.</b> Sides of upper deck from main-mast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> +to mizzen-mast, or from the former to the +break of a poop or raised quarter-deck; also a +passage for entering or leaving vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Gross tonnage.</b> Entire cubical capacity of ship, +including every inclosed space and all room +under deck from stem to stern-post, if closed +in and usable.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Gunwale, gunnel.</b> Upper part of sheer-strake, +where it comes in contact with upper deck +stringer.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Headlights.</b> Lights carried at the masthead.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Head of the bowsprit.</b> The forward end.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Hull.</b> The entire structure of a vessel, exclusive +of equipment.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Inboard.</b> Within the ship.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Inner skin.</b> Planking or plating covering the inside +of frames.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Jack.</b> Name given to various sails, ropes, etc.</div> + + +<div class='hang1'><b>Jib.</b> Triangular sail carried on a stay reaching +from the foremast head or from topmast to the +jib-boom.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Keel.</b> Backbone of a vessel in wooden ships. +Composed of great lengths of timber connected +to each other by scarfs. In steel ships +usually a set of plates from stem to stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Even keel, uneven keel.</b> Designates the manner in +which ship floats. If balanced evenly in a +fore-and-aft direction she is on even keel, if +depressed at head or stern she is on uneven +keel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Keelson angle-bar.</b> Any angle-bar used in the +construction of a keelson.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Lanyards.</b> Short lengths of rope used to tighten +up davit-guys, awnings, etc.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Launching.</b> Sliding a boat into the water from +the building-berth.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Lee side.</b> Opposite to the side on which the wind +blows.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Lighter.</b> Large craft used to bring cargo alongside +or to lighten a grounded vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>List.</b> When one side of a vessel lies deeper in +the water than the other; caused by shifting +cargo, etc.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Log.</b> Apparatus used to determine speed of a vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Main-mast.</b> Principal mast of a ship; the second +mast counting from bow to stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Marine engine.</b> Engine especially designed for +the propulsion of boats.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Mast.</b> A long piece, or system of pieces, of +timber, placed nearly perpendicularly to the +keelson of a vessel to support the spars and +gear by which the sails are set. In modern +practice, steel masts are built by riveting rolled +plates together.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Midships.</b> Middle part of a ship.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Mizzen-mast.</b> Third mast on a vessel with three +or more masts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Mizzen-sails.</b> Sails carried on a mizzen-mast.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Mushroom Ventilator.</b> Short cast-iron tube with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> +movable iron rod passing through the center. +A metal cup is fitted to the top of the rod, which +may be lifted to permit air to enter, or closed +to prevent water from entering. Generally +fitted over cabins.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Navigation Bridge.</b> Bridge used for taking observations +or handling the ship in difficult situations.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Outboard.</b> Outside the hull or beyond the gunwale.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Outlet cock.</b> Any cock used to free a receptacle +of water.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Paddle-wheels.</b> Wheels fitted on each side of a +paddle steamer in connection with the paddle-shaft, +consisting of a cast-iron boss from +which wrought-iron arms radiate, strengthened +by rims and stays, and with a float attached to +each arm.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Pawl.</b> Small catch to prevent moving object from +going beyond certain limit.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Pile.</b> A piece of lumber or iron, together with +others, driven into the bed of a river for the +support of a pier, bridge, etc.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Pilot Bridge.</b> Narrow thwartships platform, extending +from side to side above a steamer's +upper or bridge deck. Serves as a station for +the pilot or officer of the watch.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Port.</b> Opening in ship's side, in bulwark, etc.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Propeller-screw.</b> Propeller in which blades are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> +at an angle to the line of axis, similar to the +threads of a screw.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Quarters.</b> Men's positions when called to their +duties, as during fire or boat drill; also living +accommodations.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Quay.</b> Artificial landing-place.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Raft.</b> A collection of boards fastened together +by ropes or chains, and capable of floating.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Ram.</b> Massive projection under water at the bow +of a warship. The ship is also called a ram.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Rat-line.</b> Three-stranded cord, of which the +ladder-like steps in lower rigging, topmast +rigging, etc., are formed.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Rigging.</b> Entire equipment of a ship's masts, +spars, etc., with their standing and running +ropes.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Rudder.</b> A device for steering vessels. Hinged to +the outside of the hull, usually at the stern.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Sail.</b> A device of canvas and rope fastened to +spars and rigging, and extended to catch the +wind and drive the vessel.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Skiff.</b> Long, lightly built boat sometimes used in +rowing races.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Sloop.</b> Vessel with one mast, having a jib-sail.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Spar.</b> Any shaped piece of timber used as a mast, +bowsprit, yard, etc., or intended for such use.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Stanchion.</b> A stationary upright support.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Superstructure.</b> Any structure above top full +deck.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Tack.</b> To change the direction of sailing due to +wind.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Thwart.</b> Seats are called thwarts when they extend +from side to side of a boat, athwart when +across.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Tonnage.</b> Entire capacity or cubical contents of a +vessel. One ton estimated at 100 cubic English +feet.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Trawler.</b> Fishing-vessel with ground-sweeping +net.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Trim.</b> Term indicating the state of a ship with +regard to ballast; position of a vessel in the +water with respect to horizontal.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Turtle-back.</b> Top of wheel-house, forecastle, etc., +formed like a turtle's back.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Upper Works.</b> Same as freeboard when a vessel +is loaded.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Uptake.</b> Part connecting smokebox to funnel. +Sometimes includes the smokebox.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Ventilator.</b> Usually made of sheet iron in tubular +forms, and arranged to expel foul air and +permit the passage of fresh air to any part of +a ship.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Vessel.</b> Craft requiring a licensed master. +(Boats do not).</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Water ballast.</b> Sea water let into double bottom +or ballast-tank.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Water-Line.</b> (Light) Submerging line of vessel +without cargo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Water-Line.</b> (Load) Submerging line of vessel +with full cargo.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Water-tight Compartment.</b> Compartment with +water-tight bulkhead at each end.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Winch.</b> Machine used for loading or unloading +cargo. Some are hand driven and some electrically +driven.</div> + +<div class='hang1'><b>Windlass.</b> Special form of winch used to hoist +anchor.</div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> +<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p> +<p><span class='smcap'>Fig. 55</span> and <span class='smcap'>Fig. 82</span> have been linked to a larger versions to allow better reading of +the fractions.</p> +<p>The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p></div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Boys' Book of Model Boats, by Raymond Francis Yates + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOYS' BOOK OF MODEL BOATS *** + +***** This file should be named 29064-h.htm or 29064-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/0/6/29064/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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