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diff --git a/28814.txt b/28814.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df6d2d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/28814.txt @@ -0,0 +1,954 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Letters to his wife Mary Borrow, by George +Borrow, Edited by Thomas J. Wise + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Letters to his wife Mary Borrow + + +Author: George Borrow + +Editor: Thomas J. Wise + +Release Date: May 14, 2009 [eBook #28814] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, +UK, for kindly supplying the images from which this transcription was +made. + + + + + + LETTERS + TO HIS WIFE + MARY BORROW + + + BY + GEORGE BORROW + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION + 1913 + + + + +LETTERS TO HIS WIFE + + +LETTER I. + + + VENICE, + _October_ 22_nd_, 1844. + +MY DEAREST CARRETA, + +I arrived this day at Venice, and though I am exceedingly tired I hasten +to write a line to inform you of my well-being. I am now making for home +as fast as possible, and I have now nothing to detain me. + +Since I wrote to you last I have been again in quarantine for two days +and a half at Trieste, but I am glad to say that I shall no longer be +detained on that account. I was obliged to go to Trieste, though it was +much out of my way, otherwise I must have remained I know not how long in +Corfu, waiting for a direct conveyance. After my liberation I only +stopped a day at Corfu in order that I might lose no more time, though I +really wished to tarry there a little longer, the people were so kind. +On the day of my liberation I had four invitations to dinner from the +officers. I, however, made the most of my time, and escorted by one, +Captain Northcott, of the Rifles, went over the fortifications, which are +most magnificent. I saw everything that I well could, and shall never +forget the kindness with which I was treated. The next day I went for +Trieste in a steamer, down the whole length of the Adriatic. I was +horribly unwell, for the Adriatic is a bad sea, and very dangerous; the +weather was also very rough. After stopping at Trieste a day, besides +the quarantine, I left for Venice, and here I am, and hope to be on my +route again the day after to-morrow. I shall now hurry through Italy by +way of Ancona, Rome, and Civita Vecchia to Marseilles in France, and from +Marseilles to London, in not more than six days' journey. Oh, I shall be +so glad to get back to you and my mother (I hope she is alive and well) +and Hen. {7} + +I am glad to hear that we are not to have a war with those silly people, +the French. The idea made me very uneasy, for I thought how near Oulton +lay to the coast. + +You cannot imagine what a magnificent old town Venice is--it is clearly +the finest in Italy, although in decay; it stands upon islands in the +sea, and in many places is intersected with canals. The Grand Canal is +four miles long, lined with palaces on either side. I, however, shall be +glad to leave it, for there is no place to me like Oulton, where live two +of my dear ones. I have told you that I am very tired, so that I cannot +write much more, and I am presently going to bed, but I am sure that you +will be glad to hear from me however little I may write. + +I think I told you in my last letter that I had been to the top of Mount +Olympus, in Thessaly. Tell Hen that I saw a whole herd of wild deer +bounding down the cliffs, the noise they made was like thunder. I also +saw an enormous eagle--one of Jupiter's birds, his real eagles, for +according to the Grecian mythology Olympus was his favourite haunt. I +don't know what it was then, but at present it is the most wild, savage +place I ever saw; an immense way up I came to a forest of pines; half of +them were broken by thunder-bolts, snapped in the middle, and the ruins +lying around in the most hideous confusion; some had been blasted from +top to bottom and stood naked, black, and charred, in indescribable +horridness. Jupiter was the god of thunder, and he still seems to haunt +Olympus. The worst is there is little water, so that a person might +almost perish there of thirst: the snow-water, however, when it runs into +the hollows is the most delicious beverage ever tasted--the snow, +however, is very high up. My next letter I hope will be from Marseilles, +and I hope to be there in a very few days. + +Now, God bless you, my dearest. Write to my mother, and kiss Hen, and +remember me kindly to Lucy and the Atkinses. + + G. B[ORROW]. + + + +LETTER II. + + + 53A PALL MALL, + _Saturday_ [1854]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am thinking of coming to you on Thursday. I do not know that I can do +anything more here, and the dulness of the weather, and the mists, are +making me ill. + +Please to send another five pound note by Tuesday morning. I have spent +scarcely anything of that which you sent, except what I owe to Mrs. W., +but I wish to have money in my pocket, and Murray and Cooke are going to +dine with me on Tuesday. + +I shall be glad to be with you again, for I am very much in want of your +society. I miss very much my walks at Llangollen by the quiet canal; but +what's to be done? + +Everything seems nearly at a standstill in London on account of this +wretched war, at which it appears to me the English are getting the +worst, notwithstanding their boasting. They thought to settle it in an +autumn's day; they little knew the Russians, and they did not reflect +that just after autumn comes winter, which has ever been the Russian's +friend. + +Have you heard anything about the rent of the cottage? I should have +been glad to hear from you this morning. + +Give my love to Hen, and may God bless you, dear. + + GEORGE BORROW. + +Keep this. + + + +LETTER III. + + + TENBY + _Tuesday_, 25 [_August_, 1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +Since writing to you I have been rather unwell, and was obliged to remain +two days at Sandypool. The weather has been terribly hot, and affected +my head, and likewise my sight slightly. Moreover, one of the shoes hurt +my foot. I came to this place to-day, and shall presently leave it for +Pembroke on my way back. I shall write to you from there. I shall +return by Cardigan. + +What I want you to do is to write to me directed to the post office, +Cardigan (in Cardiganshire), and either inclose a post office order for +five pounds, or an order from Lloyd and Co. on the Banker of that place +for the same sum. But at any rate write, or I shall not know what to do. +I would return by railroad, but in that event I must go to London, for +there are no railroads from here to Shrewsbury. I want, moreover, to see +a little more. + +Just speak to the Banker, and don't lose any time. Send letter, and +either order in it, or say that I can get it at the Banker's. + +I hope all is well. God bless you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER IV. + + + LAMPETER + _September_ 3_rd_, [1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I am making the best of my way to Shrewsbury (my face is turned towards +Mama). I write this from Lampeter, where there is a college for +educating clergymen intended for Wales, which I am going to see. I shall +then start for Radnor by Tregavon, and hope soon to be in England. + +I have seen an enormous deal since I have been away, and have walked +several hundred miles. Amongst other places I have seen St. David's, a +wonderful half-ruinous Cathedral at the western end of Pembrokeshire; but +I shall be glad to get back. + + God bless you and Hen, + GEORGE BORROW. + +Henrietta! Do you know who is handsome? + + + +LETTER V. + + + EDINBURGH, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 19_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here yesterday quite +safe. + +We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o'clock on Thursday +morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on Friday. As I was walking in +the street at Newcastle a sailor-like man came running up to me, and +begged that I would let him speak to me. He appeared almost wild with +joy. I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a Yarmouth north +beach man, and that he knew me very well. Before I could answer, another +sailor-like, short, thick fellow came running up, who also seemed wild +with joy; he was a comrade of the other. I never saw two people so out +of themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in +fact, they were two of my old friends. I asked them how they came down +there, and they told me that they had been down fishing. They begged a +thousand pardons for speaking to me, but told me they could not help it. + +I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all night, and +saw the castle next morning. It is a fine old place, but at present is +undergoing repairs--a Scottish king was killed before its walls in the +old time. At about twelve I started for Edinburgh. The place is +wonderfully altered since I was here, and I don't think for the better. +There is a Runic stone on the castle brae which I am going to copy. It +was not there in my time. + +If you write direct to me at the Post Office, Inverness. I am thinking +of going to Glasgow to-morrow, from which place I shall start for +Inverness by one of the packets which go thither by the North-West and +the Caledonian Canal. I hope that you and Hen are well and comfortable. +Pray eat plenty of grapes and partridges. We had upon the whole a +pleasant passage from Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not +at all ill--the captain seemed a kind, honest creature. + +Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God bless you and +Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VI. + + + INVERNESS, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 26_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +This is the third letter which I have written to you. Whether you have +received the other two, or will receive this, I am doubtful. I have been +several times to the post office, but we found no letter from you, though +I expected to find one awaiting me when I arrived. I wrote last on +Friday. I merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I +shall move onward. It is of not much use staying here. + +After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry over the +Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort or Castle Downie. +At Beauly I saw the gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the +people whom he owed money to--it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at +Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born. Lord Lovat lives +in the house close by. There is now a claimant to the title, a +descendant of old Fraser's elder brother who committed a murder in the +year 1690, and on that account fled to South Wales. The present family +are rather uneasy, and so are their friends, of whom they have a great +number, for though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their +money. I have told several of their cousins that the claimant has not a +chance as the present family have been so long in possession. They +almost blessed me for saying so. There, however, can be very little +doubt that the title and estate, more than a million acres, belong to the +claimant by strict law. Old Fraser's brother was called Black John of +the Tasser. The man whom he killed was a piper who sang an insulting +song to him at a wedding. I have heard the words and have translated +them; he was dressed very finely, and the piper sang: + + _You're dressed in Highland robes_, _O John_, + _But ropes of straw would become ye better_; + _You've silver buckles your shoes upon_ + _But leather thongs for them were fitter_. + +Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the piper's belly; the +descendants of the piper are still living at Beauly. I walked that day +thirty-four miles between noon and ten o'clock at night. My letter of +credit is here. This is a dear place, but not so bad as Edinburgh. _If +you have written_, don't write any more till you hear from me again. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VII. + + + INVERNESS, + _September_ 30_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write another line to tell you that I have got your second letter--it +came just in time, as I leave to-morrow. In your next, address to George +Borrow, Post Office, Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland. You had, +however, better write without delay, as I don't know how long I may be +there; and be sure only to write once. I am glad we have got such a +desirable tenant for our Maltings, and should be happy to hear that the +cottage was also let so well. However, let us be grateful for what has +been accomplished. + +I hope you wrote to Cooke as I desired you, and likewise said something +about how I had waited for Murray. Between ourselves that account of +theirs was a shameful one, whatever they may say. + +I met to-day a very fat gentleman from Caithness, at the very north of +Scotland; he said he was descended from the Norse. I talked to him about +them, and he was so pleased with my conversation that he gave me his +card, and begged that I would visit him if I went there. As I could do +no less, I showed him my card--I had but one--and he no sooner saw the +name than he was in a rapture. + +I am rather glad that you have got the next door, as the locality is +highly respectable. Tell Hen that I copied the Runic stone on the Castle +Hill, Edinburgh. It was brought from Denmark in the old time. The +inscription is imperfect, but I can read enough of it to see that it was +erected by a man to his father and mother. I again write the direction +for your next: _George Borrow_, _Esq._, _Post Office_, _Tobermory_, _Isle +of Mull_, _Scotland_. + +God bless you and Hen. + + Ever yours, + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VIII. + + + FORT AUGUSTUS, + _Sunday_, _October_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line lest you should be uneasy. Before leaving the Highlands I +thought I would see a little more about me. So last week I set on a four +days' task, a walk of a hundred miles. I returned here late last +Thursday night. I walked that day forty-five miles; during the first +twenty the rain poured in torrents, and the wind blew in my face. The +last seventeen miles were in the dark. To-morrow I proceed towards Mull. + +I hope that you got my letters, and that I shall find something from you +awaiting me at the post office. The first day I passed over Corryarrick, +a mountain 3000 feet high. I was nearly up to my middle in snow. As +soon as I had passed it I was on Badenoch. The road on the farther side +was horrible, and I was obliged to wade several rivulets, one of which +was very boisterous and nearly threw me down. I wandered through a +wonderful country, and picked up a great many strange legends from the +people I met, but they were very few, the country being almost a desert, +chiefly inhabited by deer. When amidst the lower mountains I frequently +heard them blaring in the woods above me. The people at the inn here are +by far the nicest I have met; they are kind and honourable to a degree. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + +Don't write again if you have written. + + + +LETTER IX. + + + INVERNESS, + _November_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +After I wrote to you I walked round Mull and through it, over Benmore. I +likewise went to Icolmkill, and passed twenty-four hours there. I saw +the wonderful ruin and crossed the island. I suffered a great deal from +hunger, but what I saw amply repaid me; on my return to Tobermory I was +rather unwell, but got better. I was disappointed in a passage to Thurso +by sea, so I was obliged to return to this place by train. On Tuesday, +D.V., I shall set out on foot, and hope to find your letter awaiting me +at the post office at Thurso. + +On coming hither by train I nearly lost my things. I was told at Huntly +that the train stopped ten minutes, and meanwhile the train drove off +_purposely_. I telegraphed to Keith in order that my things might be +secured, describing where they were, under the seat. The reply was that +there was nothing of the kind there. I instantly said that I would bring +an action against the company, and walked off to the town, where I stated +the facts to a magistrate, and gave him my name and address. He advised +me to bring my action. I went back and found the people frightened. +They telegraphed again--and the reply was that the things were safe. +There is nothing like setting oneself up sometimes. I was terribly +afraid I should never again find my books and things. I, however, got +them, and my old umbrella, too. I was sent on by the mail train, but +lost four hours, besides undergoing a great deal of misery and +excitement. + +When I have been to Thurso and Kirkwall I shall return as quick as +possible, and shall be glad to get out of the country. As I am here, +however, I wish to see all I can, for I never wish to return. Whilst in +Mull I lived very cheaply--it is not costing me more than seven shillings +a day. The generality of the inns, however, in the lowlands are +incredibly dear--half-a-crown for breakfast, consisting of a little tea, +a couple of small eggs, and bread and butter--_two_ shillings for +attendance. Tell Hen that I have some moss for her from Benmore--also +some seaweed from the farther shore of Icolmrill. God bless you, + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER X. + + + THURSO, + _November_ 21_st_, [1858]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I reached this place on Friday night, and was glad enough to get your +kind letter. I shall be so glad to get home to you. + +Since my last letter to you I have walked nearly 160 miles. I was +terribly taken in with respect to distances--however, I managed to make +my way. I have been to Johnny Groat's House, which is about twenty-two +miles from this place. I had tolerably fine weather all the way, but +within two or three miles of that place a terrible storm arose; the next +day the country was covered with ice and snow. There is at present here +a kind of Greenland winter, colder almost than I ever knew the winter in +Russia. The streets are so covered with ice that it is dangerous to step +out. To-morrow D. and I pass over into Orkney, and we shall take the first +steamer to Aberdeen and Inverness, from whence I shall make the best of +my way to England. It is well that I have no farther to walk, for +walking now is almost impossible--the last twenty miles were terrible, +and the weather is worse than it was then. I was terribly deceived with +respect to steamboats. I was told that one passed over to Orkney every +day, and I have now been waiting two days, and there is not yet one. I +have had quite enough of Scotland. When I was at Johnny Groat's I got a +shell for dear Hen, which I hope I shall be able to bring or send to her. + +I am glad to hear that you have got out the money on mortgage so +satisfactorily. One of the greatest blessings in this world is to be +independent. My spirits of late have been rather bad, owing principally +to my dear mother's death. I always knew that we should miss her. I +dreamt about her at Fort Augustus. Though I have walked so much I have +suffered very little from fatigue, and have got over the ground with +surprising facility, but I have not enjoyed the country so much as Wales. + +I wish that you would order a hat for me against I come home; the one I +am wearing is very shabby, having been so frequently drenched with rain +and storm-beaten. I cannot say the exact day that I shall be home, but +you may be expecting me. The worst is that there is no depending on the +steamers, for there is scarcely any traffic in Scotland in winter. My +appetite of late has been very poorly, chiefly, I believe, owing to +badness of food and want of regular meals. Glad enough, I repeat, shall +I be to get home to you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XI. + + + KIRKWALL, ORKNEY, + _November_ 27_th_, _Saturday_ [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am, as you see, in Orkney, and I expect every minute the steamer which +will take me to Shetland and Aberdeen, from which last place I go by +train to Inverness, where my things are, and thence home. + +I had a stormy passage to Stromness, from whence I took a boat to the +Isle of Hoy, where I saw the wonderful Dwarf's House hollowed out of the +stone. From Stromness I walked here. I have seen the old Norwegian +Cathedral; it is of red sandstone, and looks as if cut out of rock. It +is different from almost everything of the kind I ever saw. It is stern +and grand to a degree. I have also seen the ruins of the old Norwegian +Bishop's palace in which King Hacon died; also the ruins of the palace of +Patrick, Earl of Orkney. I have been treated here with every kindness +and civility. As soon as the people knew who I was they could scarcely +make enough of me. The Sheriff, Mr. Robertson, a great Gaelic scholar, +said he was proud to see me in his house; and a young gentleman of the +name of Petrie, Clerk of Supply, has done nothing but go about with me to +show me the wonders of the place. Mr. Robertson wished to give me +letters to some gentleman at Edinburgh. I, however, begged leave to be +excused, saying that I wished to get home, as, indeed, I do, for my mind +is wearied by seeing so many strange places. On my way to Kirkwall I saw +the stones of Stennis--immense blocks of stone standing up like those of +Salisbury Plain. All the country is full of Druidical and Pictish +remains. It is, however, very barren, and scarcely a tree is to be seen, +only a few dwarf ones. Orkney consists of a multitude of small islands, +the principal of which is Pomona, in which Kirkwall is. The currents +between them are terrible. + +I hope to be home a few days after you receive these lines, either by +rail or steamer. This is a fine day, but there has been dreadful weather +here. I hope we shall have a prosperous passage. I have purchased a +little Kirkwall newspaper, which I send you with this letter. I shall +perhaps post both at Lerwick or Aberdeen. I sent you a Johnny Groat's +newspaper, which I hope you got. Don't tear either up, for they are +curious. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XII. + + + STIRLING, + _December_ 14_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line to tell you that I am well, and that I am on my way to +England, but I am stopped here for a day, for there is no conveyance. +Wherever I can walk I get on very well--but if you depend on coaches or +any means of conveyance in this country you are sure to be disappointed. +This place is but thirty-five miles from Edinburgh, yet I am detained for +a day--there is no train. The waste of that day will prevent me getting +to Yarmouth from Hull by the steamer. Were it not for my baggage I would +walk to Edinburgh. I got to Aberdeen, where I posted a letter for you. +I was then obliged to return to Inverness for my luggage--125 miles. +Rather than return again to Aberdeen, I sent on my things to Dunkeld, and +walked the 102 miles through the Highlands. When I got here I walked to +Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, thirty-eight miles over horrible roads. I +then got back here. I have now seen the whole of Scotland that is worth +seeing, and have walked 600 miles. I shall be glad to be out of the +country; a person here must depend entirely upon himself and his own +legs. I have not spent much money--my expenses during my wanderings +averaged a shilling a day. + +As I was walking through Strathspey, singularly enough I met two or three +of the Phillips. I did not know them, but a child came running after me +to ask me my name. It was Miss P. and two of the children. I hope to +get to you in two or three days after you get this. + + God bless you and dear Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W. + _Edition limited to Thirty Copies_. + + + + +Footnotes: + + +{7} Borrow's stepdaughter, Henrietta Mary Clarke, afterwards Mrs. +MacOubry. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +******* This file should be named 28814.txt or 28814.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/8/8/1/28814 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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