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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Letters to his wife Mary Borrow, by George
+Borrow, Edited by Thomas J. Wise
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Letters to his wife Mary Borrow
+
+
+Author: George Borrow
+
+Editor: Thomas J. Wise
+
+Release Date: May 14, 2009  [eBook #28814]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org.  Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library,
+UK, for kindly supplying the images from which this transcription was
+made.
+
+
+
+
+
+                                 LETTERS
+                               TO HIS WIFE
+                               MARY BORROW
+
+
+                                    BY
+                              GEORGE BORROW
+
+                                 LONDON:
+                     PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION
+                                   1913
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS TO HIS WIFE
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+                                                                   VENICE,
+                                                   _October_ 22_nd_, 1844.
+
+MY DEAREST CARRETA,
+
+I arrived this day at Venice, and though I am exceedingly tired I hasten
+to write a line to inform you of my well-being.  I am now making for home
+as fast as possible, and I have now nothing to detain me.
+
+Since I wrote to you last I have been again in quarantine for two days
+and a half at Trieste, but I am glad to say that I shall no longer be
+detained on that account.  I was obliged to go to Trieste, though it was
+much out of my way, otherwise I must have remained I know not how long in
+Corfu, waiting for a direct conveyance.  After my liberation I only
+stopped a day at Corfu in order that I might lose no more time, though I
+really wished to tarry there a little longer, the people were so kind.
+On the day of my liberation I had four invitations to dinner from the
+officers.  I, however, made the most of my time, and escorted by one,
+Captain Northcott, of the Rifles, went over the fortifications, which are
+most magnificent.  I saw everything that I well could, and shall never
+forget the kindness with which I was treated.  The next day I went for
+Trieste in a steamer, down the whole length of the Adriatic.  I was
+horribly unwell, for the Adriatic is a bad sea, and very dangerous; the
+weather was also very rough.  After stopping at Trieste a day, besides
+the quarantine, I left for Venice, and here I am, and hope to be on my
+route again the day after to-morrow.  I shall now hurry through Italy by
+way of Ancona, Rome, and Civita Vecchia to Marseilles in France, and from
+Marseilles to London, in not more than six days' journey.  Oh, I shall be
+so glad to get back to you and my mother (I hope she is alive and well)
+and Hen. {7}
+
+I am glad to hear that we are not to have a war with those silly people,
+the French.  The idea made me very uneasy, for I thought how near Oulton
+lay to the coast.
+
+You cannot imagine what a magnificent old town Venice is--it is clearly
+the finest in Italy, although in decay; it stands upon islands in the
+sea, and in many places is intersected with canals.  The Grand Canal is
+four miles long, lined with palaces on either side.  I, however, shall be
+glad to leave it, for there is no place to me like Oulton, where live two
+of my dear ones.  I have told you that I am very tired, so that I cannot
+write much more, and I am presently going to bed, but I am sure that you
+will be glad to hear from me however little I may write.
+
+I think I told you in my last letter that I had been to the top of Mount
+Olympus, in Thessaly.  Tell Hen that I saw a whole herd of wild deer
+bounding down the cliffs, the noise they made was like thunder.  I also
+saw an enormous eagle--one of Jupiter's birds, his real eagles, for
+according to the Grecian mythology Olympus was his favourite haunt.  I
+don't know what it was then, but at present it is the most wild, savage
+place I ever saw; an immense way up I came to a forest of pines; half of
+them were broken by thunder-bolts, snapped in the middle, and the ruins
+lying around in the most hideous confusion; some had been blasted from
+top to bottom and stood naked, black, and charred, in indescribable
+horridness.  Jupiter was the god of thunder, and he still seems to haunt
+Olympus.  The worst is there is little water, so that a person might
+almost perish there of thirst: the snow-water, however, when it runs into
+the hollows is the most delicious beverage ever tasted--the snow,
+however, is very high up.  My next letter I hope will be from Marseilles,
+and I hope to be there in a very few days.
+
+Now, God bless you, my dearest.  Write to my mother, and kiss Hen, and
+remember me kindly to Lucy and the Atkinses.
+
+                                                              G. B[ORROW].
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+
+                                                            53A PALL MALL,
+                                                        _Saturday_ [1854].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I am thinking of coming to you on Thursday.  I do not know that I can do
+anything more here, and the dulness of the weather, and the mists, are
+making me ill.
+
+Please to send another five pound note by Tuesday morning.  I have spent
+scarcely anything of that which you sent, except what I owe to Mrs. W.,
+but I wish to have money in my pocket, and Murray and Cooke are going to
+dine with me on Tuesday.
+
+I shall be glad to be with you again, for I am very much in want of your
+society.  I miss very much my walks at Llangollen by the quiet canal; but
+what's to be done?
+
+Everything seems nearly at a standstill in London on account of this
+wretched war, at which it appears to me the English are getting the
+worst, notwithstanding their boasting.  They thought to settle it in an
+autumn's day; they little knew the Russians, and they did not reflect
+that just after autumn comes winter, which has ever been the Russian's
+friend.
+
+Have you heard anything about the rent of the cottage?  I should have
+been glad to hear from you this morning.
+
+Give my love to Hen, and may God bless you, dear.
+
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+Keep this.
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+
+                                                                     TENBY
+                                           _Tuesday_, 25 [_August_, 1857].
+
+MY DEAR CARRETA,
+
+Since writing to you I have been rather unwell, and was obliged to remain
+two days at Sandypool.  The weather has been terribly hot, and affected
+my head, and likewise my sight slightly.  Moreover, one of the shoes hurt
+my foot.  I came to this place to-day, and shall presently leave it for
+Pembroke on my way back.  I shall write to you from there.  I shall
+return by Cardigan.
+
+What I want you to do is to write to me directed to the post office,
+Cardigan (in Cardiganshire), and either inclose a post office order for
+five pounds, or an order from Lloyd and Co. on the Banker of that place
+for the same sum.  But at any rate write, or I shall not know what to do.
+I would return by railroad, but in that event I must go to London, for
+there are no railroads from here to Shrewsbury.  I want, moreover, to see
+a little more.
+
+Just speak to the Banker, and don't lose any time.  Send letter, and
+either order in it, or say that I can get it at the Banker's.
+
+I hope all is well.  God bless you and Hen.
+
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+
+                                                                  LAMPETER
+                                                _September_ 3_rd_, [1857].
+
+MY DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I am making the best of my way to Shrewsbury (my face is turned towards
+Mama).  I write this from Lampeter, where there is a college for
+educating clergymen intended for Wales, which I am going to see.  I shall
+then start for Radnor by Tregavon, and hope soon to be in England.
+
+I have seen an enormous deal since I have been away, and have walked
+several hundred miles.  Amongst other places I have seen St. David's, a
+wonderful half-ruinous Cathedral at the western end of Pembrokeshire; but
+I shall be glad to get back.
+
+                                                    God bless you and Hen,
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+Henrietta!  Do you know who is handsome?
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+                                                                EDINBURGH,
+                                      _Sunday_ [_September_ 19_th_, 1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here yesterday quite
+safe.
+
+We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o'clock on Thursday
+morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on Friday.  As I was walking in
+the street at Newcastle a sailor-like man came running up to me, and
+begged that I would let him speak to me.  He appeared almost wild with
+joy.  I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a Yarmouth north
+beach man, and that he knew me very well.  Before I could answer, another
+sailor-like, short, thick fellow came running up, who also seemed wild
+with joy; he was a comrade of the other.  I never saw two people so out
+of themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in
+fact, they were two of my old friends.  I asked them how they came down
+there, and they told me that they had been down fishing.  They begged a
+thousand pardons for speaking to me, but told me they could not help it.
+
+I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all night, and
+saw the castle next morning.  It is a fine old place, but at present is
+undergoing repairs--a Scottish king was killed before its walls in the
+old time.  At about twelve I started for Edinburgh.  The place is
+wonderfully altered since I was here, and I don't think for the better.
+There is a Runic stone on the castle brae which I am going to copy.  It
+was not there in my time.
+
+If you write direct to me at the Post Office, Inverness.  I am thinking
+of going to Glasgow to-morrow, from which place I shall start for
+Inverness by one of the packets which go thither by the North-West and
+the Caledonian Canal.  I hope that you and Hen are well and comfortable.
+Pray eat plenty of grapes and partridges.  We had upon the whole a
+pleasant passage from Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not
+at all ill--the captain seemed a kind, honest creature.
+
+Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God bless you and
+Hen.
+
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+                                                                INVERNESS,
+                                      _Sunday_ [_September_ 26_th_, 1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+This is the third letter which I have written to you.  Whether you have
+received the other two, or will receive this, I am doubtful.  I have been
+several times to the post office, but we found no letter from you, though
+I expected to find one awaiting me when I arrived.  I wrote last on
+Friday.  I merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I
+shall move onward.  It is of not much use staying here.
+
+After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry over the
+Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort or Castle Downie.
+At Beauly I saw the gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the
+people whom he owed money to--it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at
+Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born.  Lord Lovat lives
+in the house close by.  There is now a claimant to the title, a
+descendant of old Fraser's elder brother who committed a murder in the
+year 1690, and on that account fled to South Wales.  The present family
+are rather uneasy, and so are their friends, of whom they have a great
+number, for though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their
+money.  I have told several of their cousins that the claimant has not a
+chance as the present family have been so long in possession.  They
+almost blessed me for saying so.  There, however, can be very little
+doubt that the title and estate, more than a million acres, belong to the
+claimant by strict law.  Old Fraser's brother was called Black John of
+the Tasser.  The man whom he killed was a piper who sang an insulting
+song to him at a wedding.  I have heard the words and have translated
+them; he was dressed very finely, and the piper sang:
+
+    _You're dressed in Highland robes_, _O John_,
+       _But ropes of straw would become ye better_;
+    _You've silver buckles your shoes upon_
+       _But leather thongs for them were fitter_.
+
+Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the piper's belly; the
+descendants of the piper are still living at Beauly.  I walked that day
+thirty-four miles between noon and ten o'clock at night.  My letter of
+credit is here.  This is a dear place, but not so bad as Edinburgh.  _If
+you have written_, don't write any more till you hear from me again.
+
+                                                    God bless you and Hen.
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+
+                                                                INVERNESS,
+                                               _September_ 30_th_, [1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I write another line to tell you that I have got your second letter--it
+came just in time, as I leave to-morrow.  In your next, address to George
+Borrow, Post Office, Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland.  You had,
+however, better write without delay, as I don't know how long I may be
+there; and be sure only to write once.  I am glad we have got such a
+desirable tenant for our Maltings, and should be happy to hear that the
+cottage was also let so well.  However, let us be grateful for what has
+been accomplished.
+
+I hope you wrote to Cooke as I desired you, and likewise said something
+about how I had waited for Murray.  Between ourselves that account of
+theirs was a shameful one, whatever they may say.
+
+I met to-day a very fat gentleman from Caithness, at the very north of
+Scotland; he said he was descended from the Norse.  I talked to him about
+them, and he was so pleased with my conversation that he gave me his
+card, and begged that I would visit him if I went there.  As I could do
+no less, I showed him my card--I had but one--and he no sooner saw the
+name than he was in a rapture.
+
+I am rather glad that you have got the next door, as the locality is
+highly respectable.  Tell Hen that I copied the Runic stone on the Castle
+Hill, Edinburgh.  It was brought from Denmark in the old time.  The
+inscription is imperfect, but I can read enough of it to see that it was
+erected by a man to his father and mother.  I again write the direction
+for your next: _George Borrow_, _Esq._, _Post Office_, _Tobermory_, _Isle
+of Mull_, _Scotland_.
+
+God bless you and Hen.
+
+                                                               Ever yours,
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+
+                                                            FORT AUGUSTUS,
+                                        _Sunday_, _October_ 7_th_, [1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I write a line lest you should be uneasy.  Before leaving the Highlands I
+thought I would see a little more about me.  So last week I set on a four
+days' task, a walk of a hundred miles.  I returned here late last
+Thursday night.  I walked that day forty-five miles; during the first
+twenty the rain poured in torrents, and the wind blew in my face.  The
+last seventeen miles were in the dark.  To-morrow I proceed towards Mull.
+
+I hope that you got my letters, and that I shall find something from you
+awaiting me at the post office.  The first day I passed over Corryarrick,
+a mountain 3000 feet high.  I was nearly up to my middle in snow.  As
+soon as I had passed it I was on Badenoch.  The road on the farther side
+was horrible, and I was obliged to wade several rivulets, one of which
+was very boisterous and nearly threw me down.  I wandered through a
+wonderful country, and picked up a great many strange legends from the
+people I met, but they were very few, the country being almost a desert,
+chiefly inhabited by deer.  When amidst the lower mountains I frequently
+heard them blaring in the woods above me.  The people at the inn here are
+by far the nicest I have met; they are kind and honourable to a degree.
+
+                                                    God bless you and Hen.
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+Don't write again if you have written.
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+
+                                                                INVERNESS,
+                                                 _November_ 7_th_, [1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+After I wrote to you I walked round Mull and through it, over Benmore.  I
+likewise went to Icolmkill, and passed twenty-four hours there.  I saw
+the wonderful ruin and crossed the island.  I suffered a great deal from
+hunger, but what I saw amply repaid me; on my return to Tobermory I was
+rather unwell, but got better.  I was disappointed in a passage to Thurso
+by sea, so I was obliged to return to this place by train.  On Tuesday,
+D.V., I shall set out on foot, and hope to find your letter awaiting me
+at the post office at Thurso.
+
+On coming hither by train I nearly lost my things.  I was told at Huntly
+that the train stopped ten minutes, and meanwhile the train drove off
+_purposely_.  I telegraphed to Keith in order that my things might be
+secured, describing where they were, under the seat.  The reply was that
+there was nothing of the kind there.  I instantly said that I would bring
+an action against the company, and walked off to the town, where I stated
+the facts to a magistrate, and gave him my name and address.  He advised
+me to bring my action.  I went back and found the people frightened.
+They telegraphed again--and the reply was that the things were safe.
+There is nothing like setting oneself up sometimes.  I was terribly
+afraid I should never again find my books and things.  I, however, got
+them, and my old umbrella, too.  I was sent on by the mail train, but
+lost four hours, besides undergoing a great deal of misery and
+excitement.
+
+When I have been to Thurso and Kirkwall I shall return as quick as
+possible, and shall be glad to get out of the country.  As I am here,
+however, I wish to see all I can, for I never wish to return.  Whilst in
+Mull I lived very cheaply--it is not costing me more than seven shillings
+a day.  The generality of the inns, however, in the lowlands are
+incredibly dear--half-a-crown for breakfast, consisting of a little tea,
+a couple of small eggs, and bread and butter--_two_ shillings for
+attendance.  Tell Hen that I have some moss for her from Benmore--also
+some seaweed from the farther shore of Icolmrill.  God bless you,
+
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+
+                                                                   THURSO,
+                                                _November_ 21_st_, [1858].
+
+MY DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I reached this place on Friday night, and was glad enough to get your
+kind letter.  I shall be so glad to get home to you.
+
+Since my last letter to you I have walked nearly 160 miles.  I was
+terribly taken in with respect to distances--however, I managed to make
+my way.  I have been to Johnny Groat's House, which is about twenty-two
+miles from this place.  I had tolerably fine weather all the way, but
+within two or three miles of that place a terrible storm arose; the next
+day the country was covered with ice and snow.  There is at present here
+a kind of Greenland winter, colder almost than I ever knew the winter in
+Russia.  The streets are so covered with ice that it is dangerous to step
+out.  To-morrow D. and I pass over into Orkney, and we shall take the first
+steamer to Aberdeen and Inverness, from whence I shall make the best of
+my way to England.  It is well that I have no farther to walk, for
+walking now is almost impossible--the last twenty miles were terrible,
+and the weather is worse than it was then.  I was terribly deceived with
+respect to steamboats.  I was told that one passed over to Orkney every
+day, and I have now been waiting two days, and there is not yet one.  I
+have had quite enough of Scotland.  When I was at Johnny Groat's I got a
+shell for dear Hen, which I hope I shall be able to bring or send to her.
+
+I am glad to hear that you have got out the money on mortgage so
+satisfactorily.  One of the greatest blessings in this world is to be
+independent.  My spirits of late have been rather bad, owing principally
+to my dear mother's death.  I always knew that we should miss her.  I
+dreamt about her at Fort Augustus.  Though I have walked so much I have
+suffered very little from fatigue, and have got over the ground with
+surprising facility, but I have not enjoyed the country so much as Wales.
+
+I wish that you would order a hat for me against I come home; the one I
+am wearing is very shabby, having been so frequently drenched with rain
+and storm-beaten.  I cannot say the exact day that I shall be home, but
+you may be expecting me.  The worst is that there is no depending on the
+steamers, for there is scarcely any traffic in Scotland in winter.  My
+appetite of late has been very poorly, chiefly, I believe, owing to
+badness of food and want of regular meals.  Glad enough, I repeat, shall
+I be to get home to you and Hen.
+
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+                                                         KIRKWALL, ORKNEY,
+                                     _November_ 27_th_, _Saturday_ [1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I am, as you see, in Orkney, and I expect every minute the steamer which
+will take me to Shetland and Aberdeen, from which last place I go by
+train to Inverness, where my things are, and thence home.
+
+I had a stormy passage to Stromness, from whence I took a boat to the
+Isle of Hoy, where I saw the wonderful Dwarf's House hollowed out of the
+stone.  From Stromness I walked here.  I have seen the old Norwegian
+Cathedral; it is of red sandstone, and looks as if cut out of rock.  It
+is different from almost everything of the kind I ever saw.  It is stern
+and grand to a degree.  I have also seen the ruins of the old Norwegian
+Bishop's palace in which King Hacon died; also the ruins of the palace of
+Patrick, Earl of Orkney.  I have been treated here with every kindness
+and civility.  As soon as the people knew who I was they could scarcely
+make enough of me.  The Sheriff, Mr. Robertson, a great Gaelic scholar,
+said he was proud to see me in his house; and a young gentleman of the
+name of Petrie, Clerk of Supply, has done nothing but go about with me to
+show me the wonders of the place.  Mr. Robertson wished to give me
+letters to some gentleman at Edinburgh.  I, however, begged leave to be
+excused, saying that I wished to get home, as, indeed, I do, for my mind
+is wearied by seeing so many strange places.  On my way to Kirkwall I saw
+the stones of Stennis--immense blocks of stone standing up like those of
+Salisbury Plain.  All the country is full of Druidical and Pictish
+remains.  It is, however, very barren, and scarcely a tree is to be seen,
+only a few dwarf ones.  Orkney consists of a multitude of small islands,
+the principal of which is Pomona, in which Kirkwall is.  The currents
+between them are terrible.
+
+I hope to be home a few days after you receive these lines, either by
+rail or steamer.  This is a fine day, but there has been dreadful weather
+here.  I hope we shall have a prosperous passage.  I have purchased a
+little Kirkwall newspaper, which I send you with this letter.  I shall
+perhaps post both at Lerwick or Aberdeen.  I sent you a Johnny Groat's
+newspaper, which I hope you got.  Don't tear either up, for they are
+curious.
+
+                                                    God bless you and Hen.
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+                                                                 STIRLING,
+                                                _December_ 14_th_, [1858].
+
+DEAR CARRETA,
+
+I write a line to tell you that I am well, and that I am on my way to
+England, but I am stopped here for a day, for there is no conveyance.
+Wherever I can walk I get on very well--but if you depend on coaches or
+any means of conveyance in this country you are sure to be disappointed.
+This place is but thirty-five miles from Edinburgh, yet I am detained for
+a day--there is no train.  The waste of that day will prevent me getting
+to Yarmouth from Hull by the steamer.  Were it not for my baggage I would
+walk to Edinburgh.  I got to Aberdeen, where I posted a letter for you.
+I was then obliged to return to Inverness for my luggage--125 miles.
+Rather than return again to Aberdeen, I sent on my things to Dunkeld, and
+walked the 102 miles through the Highlands.  When I got here I walked to
+Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, thirty-eight miles over horrible roads.  I
+then got back here.  I have now seen the whole of Scotland that is worth
+seeing, and have walked 600 miles.  I shall be glad to be out of the
+country; a person here must depend entirely upon himself and his own
+legs.  I have not spent much money--my expenses during my wanderings
+averaged a shilling a day.
+
+As I was walking through Strathspey, singularly enough I met two or three
+of the Phillips.  I did not know them, but a child came running after me
+to ask me my name.  It was Miss P. and two of the children.  I hope to
+get to you in two or three days after you get this.
+
+                                               God bless you and dear Hen.
+                                                            GEORGE BORROW.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 LONDON:
+               Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W.
+                   _Edition limited to Thirty Copies_.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes:
+
+
+{7}  Borrow's stepdaughter, Henrietta Mary Clarke, afterwards Mrs.
+MacOubry.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 28814.txt or 28814.zip *******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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