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diff --git a/28108-h/28108-h.htm b/28108-h/28108-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6297269 --- /dev/null +++ b/28108-h/28108-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2878 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=us-ascii" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE, OR +The Money-lesse perambulation, of John Taylor, Alias the Kings +Majesties Water-Poet.</title> + +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .bantq {font-family: "Old English Text MT;"} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .footnotes {background-color: #FFFE8D; border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 70%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .tr {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-top: 5%; margin-bottom: 5%; + padding: 1em; background-color: #C0FFFF; color: black; border: dotted black 1px;} /* transcriber's notes */ + + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Pennyles Pilgrimage + Or The Money-lesse Perambulation of John Taylor + +Author: John Taylor + +Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28108] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE *** + + + + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="tr"> +<h3>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h3> +<p>1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes +missing or missplaced in the original. +These have been made consistent with modern convention.</p> +<p>2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been +added.</p> +<p>3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end +of the book.</p> +<p>4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at +the end of the book.</p></div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg +i]</a></span></p> +<h3 style="height: 0pt;">THE</h3> +<h1 style="height: 14pt;">PENNYLES</h1> +<h2 style="height: 12pt;">PILGRIMAGE,</h2> +<h3 style="height: 4pt;">OR</h3> +<h3 style="height: 4pt;">The Money-lesse perambulation,</h3> +<h4>of <span class="smcap">John Taylor</span>, <i>Alias</i><br /> +the Kings Majesties<br /> +<i>Water-Poet</i>.</h4> +<h3 style="height: 4pt; letter-spacing: 0.3em">HOW HE TRAVAILED +ON FOOT</h3> +<h4>from <i>London</i> to <i>Edenborough</i> in <i>Scotland</i>, +not carrying<br /> +any Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing,<br /> +or Asking Meate, drinke or<br /> +Lodging.</h4> +<h3 style="height: 4pt; word-spacing: 0.4em"><i>With his +Description of his Entertainment</i></h3> +<h4>in all places of his Journey, and a true Report<br /> +of the unmatchable Hunting in the <i>Brea</i><br /> +of <i>Marre</i> and <i>Badenoch</i> in<br /> +<i>Scotland</i>.</h4> +<h4>With other Observations, some serious and<br /> +worthy of Memory, and some merry<br /> +and not hurtfull to be Remembred.</h4> +<h4><i>Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)<br /> +all is true.</i></h4> +<h3 style="height: 2pt; letter-spacing: 0.3em">LONDON</h3> +<h4>Printed by <i>Edw: Allde</i>, at the charges of the<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg +ii]</a></span>Author. 1618</h4> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4><span class="smcap">To the Truly<br /> +Noble and Right<br /> +Honorable Lord</span> GEORGE MARQUIS<br /> +of Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron of<br /> +Whaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty's<br /> +Forests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Master<br /> +of the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemen<br /> +of his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knight<br /> +of the most Noble Order of the Garter, and<br /> +one of his Majesty's most Honorable<br /> +Privy Council of both the<br /> +Kingdoms of England<br /> +and Scotland.<br /></h4> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="R" src= +"images/tay_page_02.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>ight Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I +was entertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, +Worshipful Knights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in +England and Scotland. So now your Lordship's inclination hath +incited, or invited my poor muse to shelter herself under the +shadow of your honorable patronage, not that there is any worth +at all in my sterile invention, but in all humility I acknowledge +that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, that is able to make +this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever.</p> +<p style="height: 8pt; margin-left: 11.5em;">Your Honors,</p> +<p style="height: 8pt; margin-left: 13.5em;">In all +observance,</p> +<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;">JOHN TAYLOR. <span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg +iii]</a></span></p> +<table summary="deco" align="center" style= +"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src= +"images/tay_page_03a.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2>TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS,<br /> +BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER,<br /> +MY GENERAL SALUTATION.</h2> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="R" src= +"images/tay_page_02.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><i>eader, these Travels of mine into</i> Scotland, <i>were not +undertaken, neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but +only devised by myself, on purpose to make trial of my friends +both in this Kingdom of</i> England, <i>and that of</i> Scotland, +<i>and because I would be an eye-witness of divers things which I +had heard of that Country; and whereas many shallow-brained +Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on by others, +or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockage +of Master</i> Benjamin Jonson, <i>I vow by the faith of a +Christian, that their imaginations are all wide, for he is a +gentleman, to whom I am so much obliged for many undeserved +courtesies that I have received from him, and from others by his +favour, that I durst never to be so impudent or ungrateful, as +either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine own instigation, +to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span> much +goodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if +you expect</i></p> +<p style="margin-left: 6.5em;">That I should write of cities' +situations,<br /> +Or that of countries I should make relations:<br /> +Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills,<br /> +Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills,<br /> +Of shires, and piers, and memorable things,<br /> +Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings,<br /> +I touch not those, they not belong to me;<br /> +But if such things as these you long to see,<br /> +Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to read<br /> +The learned <i>Camden</i>, or laborious <i>Speed</i>.</p> +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em; height: 8pt;"><i>And so God speed +you and me, whilst I rest</i></p> +<p style="margin-left: 12.5em; height: 8pt;"><i>Yours in all +thankfulness:</i></p> +<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;"><span class="smcap">John +Taylor.</span></p> +<table summary="deco" align="center" style= +"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src= +"images/tay_page_04.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg +1]</a></span> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<table summary="deco" align="center" style= +"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src= +"images/tay_page_05a.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="TAYLORS" id="TAYLORS"></a>TAYLOR'S<br /> +PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE.</h2> +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;"> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="L" src= +"images/tay_page_05b.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +ist Lordlings, list (if you have +lust to list)<br /> +I write not here a tale of had I wist:<br /> +But you shall hear of travels, and relations,<br /> +Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions.<br /> +And he that not believes what here is writ,<br /> +Let him (as I have done) make proof of it.<br /> +The year of grace, accounted (as I ween)<br /> +One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen,<br /> +And to relate all things in order duly,<br /> +'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July,<br /> +Saint <i>Revels</i> day, the almanack will tell ye<br /> +The sign in <i>Virgo</i> was, or near the belly:<br /> +The moon full three days old, the wind full south;<br /> +At these times I began this trick of youth.<br /> +I speak not of the tide, for understand,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg +2]</a></span>My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land,<br /> +Though in the morning I began to go<br /> +Good fellows trooping, flocked me so,<br /> +That make what haste I could, the sun was set,<br /> +E're from the gates of <i>London</i> I could get.<br /> +At last I took my latest leave thus late,<br /> +At the Bell Inn, that's <i>extra Aldersgate</i>.<br /> +There stood a horse that my provant<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id= +"FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class= +"fnanchor">[1]</a> should carry,<br /> +From that place to the end of my fegary,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" +id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class= +"fnanchor">[2]</a><br /> +My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag,<br /> +That with good understanding bore my bag:<br /> +And of good carriage he himself did show,<br /> +These things are excellent in a beast you know.<br /> +There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees)<br /> +I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese<br /> +With roses, barberries, of each conserves,<br /> +And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves:<br /> +And I entreat you take these words for no-lies,<br /> +I had good <i>Aqua vitæ, Rosa</i> so-lies:<br /> +With sweet <i>Ambrosia</i>, (the gods' own drink)<br /> +Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think,<br /> +Besides, I had both vinegar and oil,<br /> +That could a daring saucy stomach foil.<br /> +This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine,<br /> +Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine,<br /> +I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun,<br /> +And went that night as far as <i>Islington</i>.<br /> +There did I find (I dare affirm it bold)<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg +3]</a></span>A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old,<br /> +But surely it was painted, like a whore,<br /> +And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door,<br /> +Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long,<br /> +May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong.<br /> +There did my loving friendly host begin<br /> +To entertain me freely to his inn:<br /> +And there my friends, and good associates,<br /> +Each one to mirth himself accommodates.<br /> +<i>At Well-head</i> both for welcome, and for cheer,<br /> +Having a good <i>New ton</i>, of good stale beer:<br /> +There did we <i>Trundle</i>[3] down health, after health,<br /> +(Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth.)<br /> +Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk,<br /> +And only <i>No-body</i><a name="FNanchor_3_3" id= +"FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class= +"fnanchor">[3]</a> was three parts drunk.<br /> +The morrow next, Wednesday Saint <i>Swithin's</i> day,<br /> +From ancient <i>Islington</i> I took my way.<br /> +At <i>Holywell</i> I was enforced carouse,<br /> +Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House.<br /> +But there's a help to make amends for all,<br /> +That though the ale be great, the pots be small.<br /> +At <i>Highgate</i> Hill to a strange house I went,<br /> +And saw the people were to eating bent,<br /> +In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought,<br /> +But most laborious with my teeth I wrought.<br /> +I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant,<br /> +But I did practise thus before my want;<br /> +Like to a Tilter that would win the prize,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg +4]</a></span>Before the day he'll often exercise.<br /> +So I began to put in use, at first<br /> +These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst.<br /> +Close to the Gate,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id= +"FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class= +"fnanchor">[4]</a> there dwelt a worthy man,<br /> +That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can,<br /> +Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil,<br /> +Do call him <i>Robin Pluto</i>, or the devil.<br /> +But finding him a devil, freely hearted,<br /> +With friendly farewells I took leave and parted,<br /> +And as alongst I did my journey take,<br /> +I drank at <i>Broom's well</i>, for pure fashion's sake,<br /> +Two miles I travelled then without a bait,<br /> +The Saracen's Head at <i>Whetstone</i> entering straight,<br /> +I found an host, that might lead an host of men,<br /> +Exceeding fat, yet named <i>Lean</i>, and <i>Fen</i>.<a name= +"FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" +class="fnanchor">[5]</a><br /> +And though we make small reckoning of him here,<br /> +He's known to be a very great man there.<br /> +There I took leave of all my company,<br /> +Bade all farewell, yet spake to <i>No-body</i>.<br /> +Good reader think not strange, what I compile,<br /> +For <i>No-body</i> was with me all this while.<br /> +And <i>No-body</i> did drink, and, wink, and scink,<br /> +And on occasion freely spent his chink.<br /> +If anyone desire to know the man,<br /> +Walk, stumble, <i>Trundle</i>, but in <i>Barbican</i>.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg +5]</a></span>There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd,<br /> +And in that street kind <i>No-body</i><a name="FNanchor_6_6" id= +"FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class= +"fnanchor">[6]</a> is hanged.<br /> +But leaving him unto his matchless fame,<br /> +I to St. <i>Albans</i> in the evening came,<br /> +Where Master <i>Taylor</i>, at the Saracen's Head,<br /> +Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg +6]</a></span>The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all,<br /> +Saved me a labour, that I need not call,<br /> +The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round,<br /> +And in a word great kindness there I found,<br /> +For which both to my cousin, and his men,<br /> +I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen.<br /> +Till Thursday morning there I made my stay,<br /> +And then I went plain <i>Dunstable</i> highway.<br /> +My very heart with drought methought did shrink,<br /> +I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink.<br /> +Which made me call to mind, that instant time,<br /> +That drunkenness was a most sinful crime.<br /> +When <i>Puddle-hill</i> I footed down, and past<br /> +A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last.<br /> +There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread,<br /> +We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed.<br /> +And whilst two hours we there did take our ease,<br /> +My nag made shift to mump green pulse<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id= +"FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class= +"fnanchor">[7]</a> and peas.<br /> +Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply,<br /> +And drank the water of a brook hard by.<br /> +Away toward <i>Hockley</i> in the Hole, we make,<br /> +When straight a horseman did me overtake,<br /> +Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin,<br /> +I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin,<br /> +I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink,<br /> +And willingly I wished it drowned in drink.<br /> +Away rode he, but like an honest man,<br /> +I found at <i>Hockley</i> standing at the Swan,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg +7]</a></span>A formal tapster, with a jug and glass,<br /> +Who did arrest me: I most willing was<br /> +To try the action, and straight put in bail,<br /> +My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale,<br /> +To quit this kindness, I most willing am,<br /> +The man that paid for all, his name is <i>Dam</i>,<br /> +At the Green Dragon, against <i>Grays-Inn</i> gate,<br /> +He lives in good repute, and honest state.<br /> +I forward went in this my roving race,<br /> +To <i>Stony Stratford</i> I toward night did pace,<br /> +My mind was fixed through the town to pass,<br /> +To find some lodging in the hay or grass,<br /> +But at the <i>Queen's Arms</i>, from the window there,<br /> +A comfortable voice I chanced to hear,<br /> +Call <i>Taylor, Taylor</i>, and be hanged come hither,<br /> +I looked for small entreaty and went thither,<br /> +There were some friends, which I was glad to see,<br /> +Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me.<br /> +On Friday morn, as I would take my way,<br /> +My friendly host entreated me to stay,<br /> +Because it rained, he told me I should have<br /> +Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave.<br /> +I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor,<br /> +But if I live, I will requite him better.<br /> +(From <i>Stony Stratford</i>) the way hard with stones,<br /> +Did founder me, and vex me to the bones.<br /> +In blustering weather, both for wind and rain,<br /> +Through <i>Towcester</i> I trotted with much pain,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg +8]</a></span>Two miles from thence, we sat us down and +dined,<br /> +Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind.<br /> +We having fed, away incontinent,<br /> +With weary pace toward <i>Daventry</i> we went.<br /> +Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there,<br /> +And told me he would leave a jug of beer,<br /> +At <i>Daventry</i> at the Horse-shoe for my use.<br /> +I thought it no good manners to refuse,<br /> +But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift,<br /> +Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift,<br /> +Came limping after to that stony town,<br /> +Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down.<br /> +There had my friend performed the words he said,<br /> +And at the door a jug of liquor staid,<br /> +The folks were all informed, before I came,<br /> +How, and wherefore my journey I did frame,<br /> +Which caused mine hostess from her door come out,<br /> +(Having a great wart rampant on her snout.)<br /> +The tapsters, hostlers, one another call,<br /> +The chamberlains with admiration all,<br /> +Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful,<br /> +As if some monster sent from the <i>Mogul</i>,<br /> +Some elephant from <i>Africa</i>, I had been,<br /> +Or some strange beast from the <i>Amazonian</i> Queen.<br /> +As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg +9]</a></span>Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl,<br /> +So did these brainless asses, all amazed,<br /> +With admirable <i>Nonsense</i> talked and gazed,<br /> +They knew my state (although not told by me)<br /> +That I could scarcely go, they all could see,<br /> +They drank of my beer, that to me was given,<br /> +But gave me not a drop to make all even,<br /> +And that which in my mind was most amiss,<br /> +My hostess she stood by and saw all this,<br /> +Had she but said, come near the house my friend,<br /> +For this day here shall be your journey's end.<br /> +Then had she done the thing which [she] did not,<br /> +And I in kinder words had paid the shot.<br /> +I do entreat my friends, (as I have some)<br /> +If they to <i>Daventry</i> do chance to come,<br /> +That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance,<br /> +Or accident into that house they glance,<br /> +Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit,<br /> +My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" +id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class= +"fnanchor">[8]</a><br /> +Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will,<br /> +You for your money shall be welcome still.<br /> +From thence that night, although my bones were sore,<br /> +I made a shift to hobble seven miles more:<br /> +The way to <i>Dunchurch</i>, foul with dirt and mire,<br /> +Able, I think, both man and horse to tire.<br /> +On <i>Dunsmoor</i> Heath, a hedge doth there enclose<br /> +Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg +10]</a></span>Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly +learn,<br /> +With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern,<br /> +Of which we made a field-bed in the field,<br /> +Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield.<br /> +There with my mother earth, I thought it fit<br /> +To lodge, and yet no incest did commit:<br /> +My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs,<br /> +And being weary, I went up no stairs:<br /> +The sky my canopy, bright <i>Phœbe</i> shined<br /> +Sweet bawling <i>Zephyrus</i> breathed gentle wind,<br /> +In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night,<br /> +Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light;<br /> +There barricadoed with a bank lay we<br /> +Below the lofty branches of a tree,<br /> +There my bed-fellows and companions were,<br /> +My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer:<br /> +But yet for all this most confused rout,<br /> +We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out.<br /> +Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster,<br /> +Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster;<br /> +And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked,)<br /> +Allowed us a large covering and a blanket;<br /> +<i>Auroras</i> face 'gan light our lodging dark,<br /> +We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark,<br /> +Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg +11]</a></span>I travelled to the city <i>Coventry</i>.<br /> +There Master Doctor <i>Holland</i><a name="FNanchor_9_9" id= +"FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class= +"fnanchor">[9]</a> caused me stay<br /> +The day of <i>Saturn</i> and the Sabbath day.<br /> +Most friendly welcome, he me did afford,<br /> +I was so entertained at bed and board,<br /> +Which as I dare not brag how much it was,<br /> +I dare not be ingrate and let it pass,<br /> +But with thanks many I remember it,<br /> +(Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ,<br /> +He used me like his son, more than a friend,<br /> +And he on Monday his commends did send<br /> +To <i>Newhall</i>, where a gentleman did dwell,<br /> +Who by his name is hight <i>Sacheverell</i>.<br /> +The Tuesday <i>July's</i> one and twentieth day,<br /> +I to the city <i>Lichfield</i> took my way,<br /> +At <i>Sutton Coldfield</i> with some friends I met,<br /> +And much ado I had from thence to get,<br /> +There I was almost put unto my trumps,<br /> +My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps;<br /> +But noble <i>Vulcan</i>, a mad smuggy smith,<br /> +All reparations me did furnish with.<br /> +The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod,<br /> +And he referred the payment unto God.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg +12]</a></span>I found a friend, when I to <i>Lichfield</i> +came,<br /> +A joiner, and <i>John Piddock</i> is his name.<br /> +He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt,<br /> +And he did furnish me with good provant:<br /> +He offered me some money, I refused it,<br /> +And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it,<br /> +That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass,<br /> +Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass,<br /> +With here and there a pelting scattered village,<br /> +Which yielded me no charity, or pillage:<br /> +For all the day, nor yet the night that followed.<br /> +One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed.<br /> +At night I came to a stony town called <i>Stone</i>.<br /> +Where I knew none, nor was I known of none:<br /> +I therefore through the streets held on my pace,<br /> +Some two miles farther to some resting place:<br /> +At last I spied a meadow newly mowed,<br /> +The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed:<br /> +We made a breach, and entered horse and man,<br /> +There our pavilion, we to pitch began,<br /> +Which we erected with green broom and hay,<br /> +To expel the cold, and keep the rain away;<br /> +The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower,<br /> +And presently there fell a mighty shower,<br /> +Which without intermission down did pour,<br /> +From ten a night, until the morning's four.<br /> +We all that time close in our couch did lie,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg +13]</a></span>Which being well compacted kept us dry.<br /> +The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep,<br /> +And so a temperate diet we did keep.<br /> +The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs,<br /> +We being as ready as we had been dogs:<br /> +We need not stand upon long ready making,<br /> +But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking:<br /> +And for I found my host and hostess kind,<br /> +I like a true man left my sheets behind.<br /> +That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed,<br /> +Unto a town that is <i>Newcastle</i> named.<br /> +(Not that <i>Newcastle</i> standing upon <i>Tyne</i>)<br /> +But this town situation doth confine<br /> +Near <i>Cheshire</i>, in the famous county <i>Stafford</i>,<br /> +And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But now my versing muse craves +some repose,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And whilst she sleeps I'll spout +a little prose.</span><br /></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In this town of <i>Newcastle</i>, +I overtook an hostler, and I asked him what the next town was +called, that was in my way toward <i>Lancaster</i>, he holding +the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute, +piped me this answer, and said, <i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>; I asked +him again what he said <i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>: I demanded the +third time, and the third time he answered me as he did before, +<i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>. I began to grow choleric, and asked him +why he could not talk, or tell me my way as well there as on the +hill; at last I was resolved, that the next town was four miles +off me, and that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id= +"Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> name of it was, +<i>Talk-on-the-Hill</i>: I had not travelled above two miles +farther: but my last night's supper (which was as much as +nothing) my mind being informed of it by my stomach. I made a +virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun: I have +fared better at three Suns many times before now, in +<i>Aldersgate Street</i>, <i>Cripplegate</i>, and new <i>Fish +Street</i>; but here is the odds, at those Suns they will come +upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cutting as a tailor's bill +of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook falls not half so +heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the law in +their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of +debt, and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence +there is no appeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the +material Sunshine, we eat a substantial dinner, and like +miserable guests we did budget up the reversions.</p> +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;">And now with sleep my muse hath +eased her brain<br /> +I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again.<br /> +That which we could not have, we freely spared,<br /> +And wanting drink, most soberly we fared.<br /> +We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way)<br /> +And kindly every step entreats me stay,<br /> +The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip,<br /> +One foot went forward, the other back would slip,<br /> +This weary day, when I had almost past,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg +15]</a></span>I came unto Sir <i>Urian Leigh's</i> at last,<br /> +At <i>Adlington</i>, near <i>Macclesfield</i> he doth +dwell,<br /> +Beloved, respected, and reputed well.<br /> +Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed,<br /> +From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next,<br /> +At his own table I did daily eat,<br /> +Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat,<br /> +He would have given me gold or silver either,<br /> +But I, with many thanks, received neither,<br /> +And thus much without flattery I dare swear,<br /> +He is a knight beloved far and near,<br /> +First he's beloved of his God above,<br /> +(Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love)<br /> +Next with a wife and children he is blest,<br /> +Each having God's fear planted in their breast.<br /> +With fair demaines, revenue of good lands,<br /> +He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands,<br /> +And as he's happy in these outward things,<br /> +So from his inward mind continual springs<br /> +Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety,<br /> +Good hospitable works of charity,<br /> +Just in his actions, constant in his word,<br /> +And one that won his honour with the sword,<br /> +He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight,<br /> +But he knows when, and how to speak or fight,<br /> +I cannot flatter him, say what I can,<br /> +He's every way a complete gentleman.<br /> +I write not this, for what he did to me,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg +16]</a></span>But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and +see,<br /> +Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame<br /> +But to make others imitate the same,<br /> +For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow,<br /> +I would his worthy worth more amply show,<br /> +But I already fear have been too bold,<br /> +And crave his pardon, me excused to hold.<br /> +Thanks to his sons and servants every one,<br /> +Both males and females all, excepting none.<br /> +To bear a letter he did me require,<br /> +Near <i>Manchester</i>, unto a good Esquire:<br /> +His kinsman <i>Edmund Prestwitch</i>, he ordained,<br /> +That I was at <i>Manchester</i> entertained<br /> +Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass,<br /> +For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass;<br /> +This gentleman not only gave harbour,<br /> +But in the morning sent me to his barber,<br /> +Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse,<br /> +Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse.<br /> +But in conclusion, when his work was ended,<br /> +His glass informed, my face was much amended.<br /> +And for the kindness he to me did show,<br /> +God grant his customers beards faster grow,<br /> +That though the time of year be dear or cheap,<br /> +From fruitful faces he may mow and reap.<br /> +Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg +17]</a></span>He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did +fail,<br /> +Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt,<br /> +Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt:<br /> +Can these kind things be in oblivion hid?<br /> +No, Master <i>Prestwitch</i>, this and much more did,<br /> +His friendship did command and freely gave<br /> +All before writ, and more than I durst crave.<br /> +But leaving him a little, I must tell,<br /> +How men of <i>Manchester</i> did use me well,<br /> +Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack,<br /> +Roast, boiled, baked, too—too—much, white, claret, +sack,<br /> +Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot,<br /> +Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot,<br /> +That what they could do, all they thought too little,<br /> +Striving in love the traveller to whittle.<br /> +We went into the house of one <i>John Pinners</i>,<br /> +(A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners)<br /> +And there eight several sorts of ale we had,<br /> +All able to make one stark drunk or mad.<br /> +But I with courage bravely flinched not,<br /> +And gave the town leave to discharge the shot.<br /> +We had at one time set upon the table,<br /> +Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no Æsop-fable:<br /> +Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt,<br /> +And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt,<br /> +With ale of rosemary, and betony,<br /> +And two ales more, or else I needs must lie.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg +18]</a></span>But to conclude this drinking aley-tale,<br /> +We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale.<br /> +Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost,<br /> +Did strive whose love should be expressed most,<br /> +And farther to declare their boundless loves,<br /> +They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves,<br /> +In deed, and very deed, their loves were such,<br /> +That in their praise I cannot write too much;<br /> +They merit more than I have here compiled,<br /> +I lodged at the Eagle and the Child,<br /> +Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman)<br /> +Did entertain me with respect, not common.<br /> +She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed,<br /> +And on my way she caused me be refreshed,<br /> +She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon,<br /> +Which by me much refused, at last was taken,<br /> +In troth she proved a mother unto me,<br /> +For which, I evermore will thankful be.<br /> +But when to mind these kindnesses I call,<br /> +Kind Master <i>Prestwitch</i> author is of all,<br /> +And yet Sir <i>Urian Leigh's</i> good commendation,<br /> +Was the main ground of this my recreation.<br /> +From both of them, there what I had, I had,<br /> +Or else my entertainment had been bad.<br /> +O all you worthy men of <i>Manchester</i>,<br /> +(True bred bloods of the County <i>Lancaster</i>)<br /> +When I forget what you to me have done,<br /> +Then let me headlong to confusion run.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg +19]</a></span>To noble Master <i>Prestwitch</i> I must give<br /> +Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live,<br /> +His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score,<br /> +He far surpassed all that went before,<br /> +A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty,<br /> +To bring me quite through <i>Lancaster's</i> large county,<br /> +Which I well know is fifty miles at large,<br /> +And he defrayed all the cost and charge.<br /> +This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure,<br /> +That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure.<br /> +So Mistress <i>Saracoal</i>, hostess kind,<br /> +And <i>Manchester</i> with thanks I left behind.<br /> +The Wednesday being <i>July's</i> twenty nine,<br /> +My journey I to <i>Preston</i> did confine,<br /> +All the day long it rained but one shower,<br /> +Which from the morning to the evening did pour,<br /> +And I, before to <i>Preston</i> I could get,<br /> +Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat,<br /> +But there I was supplied with fire and food,<br /> +And anything I wanted sweet and good.<br /> +There, at the Hind, kind Master <i>Hind</i> mine host,<br /> +Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast,<br /> +There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay,<br /> +And hardly got from thence on Saturday.<br /> +Unto my lodging often did repair,<br /> +Kind Master <i>Thomas Banister</i>, the Mayor,<br /> +Who is of worship, and of good respect,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg +20]</a></span>And in his charge discreet and circumspect.<br /> +For I protest to God I never saw,<br /> +A town more wisely governed by the law.<br /> +They told me when my Sovereign there was last,<br /> +That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste.<br /> +It grieved them all, but when at last they found,<br /> +His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned.<br /> +He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds,<br /> +He did accept their kind intents, for deeds:<br /> +One man there was, that with his zeal too hot,<br /> +And furious haste, himself much overshot.<br /> +But what man is so foolish, that desires<br /> +To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars?<br /> +Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here,<br /> +Because I saw how much they grieved were;<br /> +That any way, the least part of offence,<br /> +Should make them seem offensive to their Prince.<br /> +Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in <i>Preston</i>,<br /> +And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on,<br /> +Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent,<br /> +And on my way two miles, with me he went,<br /> +There (by good chance) I did more friendship get,<br /> +The under Sheriff of <i>Lancashire</i> we met,<br /> +A gentleman that loved, and knew me well,<br /> +And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell.<br /> +There, as if I had been a noted thief,<br /> +The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff.<br /> +The Sheriff's authority did much prevail,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg +21]</a></span>He sent me unto one that kept the jail.<br /> +Thus I perambuling, poor <i>John Taylor</i>,<br /> +Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor.<br /> +The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer,<br /> +Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear,<br /> +For the under-Sheriff kind Master <i>Covill</i> named,<br /> +(A man for house-keeping renowed and famed)<br /> +Did cause the town of <i>Lancashire</i> afford<br /> +Me welcome, as if I had been a lord.<br /> +And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty,<br /> +His mate can scarce be found in all that county.<br /> +The extremes of miser, or of prodigal,<br /> +He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal,<br /> +His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed,<br /> +That <i>Argus</i> eyes could see no odds betwixt,<br /> +And sure the difference, (if there difference be)<br /> +Is who shall do most good, or he, or she.<br /> +Poor folks report, that for relieving them,<br /> +He and his wife, are each of them a gem;<br /> +At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid,<br /> +And what was to be paid, I know he paid:<br /> +If nothing of their kindness I had wrote,<br /> +Ungrateful me the world might justly note:<br /> +Had I declared all I did hear, and see,<br /> +For a great flatterer then I deemed should be,<br /> +Him and his wife, and modest daughter <i>Bess</i>,<br /> +With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless.<br /> +Two days a man of his, at his command,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg +22]</a></span>Did guide me to the midst of +<i>Westmoreland</i>,<br /> +And my conductor with a liberal fist,<br /> +To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed.<br /> +The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame)<br /> +We in the dark, to a town called <i>Sedbergh</i> came,<br /> +There Master <i>Borrowed</i>, my kind honest host,<br /> +Upon me did bestowed unasked cost.<br /> +The next day I held on my journey still,<br /> +Six miles unto a place called <i>Carling</i> hill,<br /> +Where Master <i>Edmund Branthwaite</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10" +id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class= +"fnanchor">[10]</a> doth reside,<br /> +Who made me welcome, with my man and guide.<br /> +Our entertainment, and our fare were such,<br /> +It might have satisfied our betters much;<br /> +Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought,<br /> +And five miles on my way himself me brought,<br /> +At <i>Orton</i> he, I, and my man did dine,<br /> +With Master <i>Corney</i> a good true Divine,<br /> +And surely Master <i>Branthwaite</i>'s well beloved,<br /> +His firm integrity is much approved:<br /> +His good effects, do make him still affected<br /> +Of God and good men, (with regard) respected.<br /> +He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg +23]</a></span>Who lodged, and boarded me at <i>Penrith</i> +town,<br /> +And such good cheer, and bedding there I had,<br /> +That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad;<br /> +There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake)<br /> +With me a journey would to <i>Carlisle</i> make:<br /> +But from that city, about two miles wide,<br /> +Good Sir <i>John Dalston</i> lodged me and my guide.<br /> +Of all the gentlemen in <i>England's</i> bounds<br /> +His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds,<br /> +And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud,<br /> +He's free from being covetous, or proud;<br /> +His son, Sir <i>George</i>, most affable, and kind,<br /> +His father's image, both in form and mind,<br /> +On Saturday to <i>Carlisle</i> both did ride,<br /> +Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide,<br /> +Where of good entertainment I found store,<br /> +From one that was the mayor the year before,<br /> +His name is Master <i>Adam Robinson</i>,<br /> +I the last English friendship with him won.<br /> +He (<i>gratis</i>) found a guide to bring me through,<br /> +<span class="sidenote"><i>My thanks to Sir John and Sir Geo. +Dalston, with Sir Henry Curwin.</i></span> +From <i>Carlisle</i> to the city +<i>Edinburgh</i>:<br /> +This was a help, that was a help alone,<br /> +Of all my helps inferior unto none.<br /> +Eight miles from <i>Carlisle</i> runs a little river,<br /> +Which <i>England's</i> bounds, from <i>Scotland's</i> grounds +doth sever.<br /> +Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get<br /> +<span class="sidenote"><i>Over Esk I waded.</i></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>On foot, I went, yet +scarce my shoes did wet.<br /> +I being come to this long-looked-for land,<br /> +Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned;<br /> +And I saw nothing that could change my will,<br /> +But that I thought myself in <i>England</i> still.<br /> +The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed,<br /> +There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt;<br /> +There I saw sky above, and earth below,<br /> +And as in <i>England</i>, there the sun did show;<br /> +The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale,<br /> +<span class="sidenote"><i>The afore-named knights had given money +to my guide, of which he left some part at every +ale-house.</i></span> +And many a cottage yielded good +Scottish ale;<br /> +This county (<i>Avondale</i>) in former times,<br /> +Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes:<br /> +For <i>Cumberland</i> and it, both kingdoms borders,<br /> +Were ever ordered, by their own disorders,<br /> +Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving,<br /> +Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving;<br /> +And many times he that had wealth to-night,<br /> +Was by the morrow morning beggared quite:<br /> +Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted,<br /> +That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted,<br /> +Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled,<br /> +The churches with the lowly ground were levelled;<br /> +All memorable monuments defaced,<br /> +All places of defence o'erthrown and razed.<br /> +That whoso then did in the borders dwell,<br /> +Lived little happier than those in hell.<br /> +But since the all-disposing God of heaven,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg +25]</a></span>Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given,<br /> +Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered,<br /> +Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured,<br /> +That now each subject may securely sleep,<br /> +His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep,<br /> +For now those crowns are both in one combined,<br /> +Those former borders, that each one confine,<br /> +Appears to me (as I do understand)<br /> +To be almost the centre of the land,<br /> +This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle,<br /> +To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle.<br /> +Long may the instrumental cause survive.<br /> +From him and his, succession still derive<br /> +True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne,<br /> +That these two kingdoms ever may be one;<br /> +This county of all <i>Scotland</i> is most poor,<br /> +By reason of the outrages before,<br /> +Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow,<br /> +And as good grass as ever man did mow:<br /> +And as that day I twenty miles did pass,<br /> +I saw eleven hundred neat at grass,<br /> +By which may be conjectured at the least,<br /> +That there was sustenance for man and beast.<br /> +And in the kingdom I have truly scanned,<br /> +There's many worser parts, are better manned,<br /> +For in the time that thieving was in ure,<br /> +The gentles fled to places more secure.<br /> +And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg +26]</a></span>Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn +again.<br /> +The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty,<br /> +Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty,<br /> +Twixt it and England, little odds I see,<br /> +They eat, and live, and strong and able be,<br /> +So much in verse, and now I'll change my style,<br /> +And seriously I'll write in prose awhile.<br /></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">To the purpose then: my first +night's lodging in <i>Scotland</i> was at a place called +<i>Moffat</i>, which they say, is thirty miles from +<i>Carlisle</i>, but I suppose them to be longer than forty of +such miles as are betwixt <i>London</i> and Saint <i>Albans</i>, +(but indeed the Scots do allow almost as large measure of their +miles, as they do of their drink, for an English gallon either of +ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile (now and +then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) but +howsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest +that ever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found +good ordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was +sweet and good, and might have served a far better man than +myself, although myself have had many times better: but this is +to be noted, that though it rained not all the day, yet it was my +fortune to be well wet twice, for I waded over a great river +called <i>Esk</i> in the morning, somewhat more than four miles +distance from <i>Carlisle</i> in <i>England</i>, and at night +within two miles of my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id= +"Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> lodging, I was fain to wade over the +river of <i>Annan</i> in <i>Scotland</i>, from which river the +county of <i>Annandale</i>, hath its name. And whilst I waded on +foot, my man was mounted on horseback, like the <i>George</i> +without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and left +<i>Moffat</i> behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one +miles to a sorry village called <i>Blythe</i>, but I was blithe +myself to come to any place of harbour or succour, for since I +was born, I never was so weary, or so near being dead with +extreme travel: I was foundered and refoundered of all four, and +for my better comfort, I came so late, that I must lodge without +doors all night, or else in a poor house where the good wife lay +in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servant maid +being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificially +adorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I +must either take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we +got eggs and ale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, +my man lying on the floor by me, where in the night there were +pigeons did very bountifully mute in his face: the day being no +sooner come, and having but fifteen miles to <i>Edinburgh</i>, +mounted upon my ten toes, and began first to hobble, and after to +amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace by degrees; all the way +passing through a fertile country for corn and cattle: and about +two of the clock in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" +id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> afternoon that Wednesday, being +the thirteenth of August, and the day of <i>Clare</i> the Virgin +(the sign being in <i>Virgo</i>) the moon four days old, the wind +at west, I came to take rest, at the wished, long expected, +ancient famous city of <i>Edinburgh</i>, which I entered like +Pierce Penniless,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id= +"FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class= +"fnanchor">[11]</a> altogether moneyless, but I thank God, not +friendless; for being there, for the time of my stay, I might +borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if I could get, beg if I +had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventure the price of a +hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and to suffer him +and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead of litter, +till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, that +would desperately disburse.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Walking thus down the street, (my +body being tired with travel, and my mind attired with moody, +muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplation did devotely pray, +that I might meet one or other to prey upon, being willing to +take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing, and +circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw his +picture, but all my acquaintance was <i>Non est inventus</i>, +(pardon me, reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by +<i>Priscian's Pericranium</i>, an oath which I have ignorantly +broken many times.) <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id= +"Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>At last I resolved, that the next +gentleman that I meet withal, should be acquaintance whether he +would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upon a gentleman-like +object, I looked on him, as if I would survey something through +him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at my +gazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the +way and made toward me, and then I made down the street from him, +leaving to encounter with any man, who came after me leading my +horse, whom he thus accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder +gentleman, (meaning me) know me, that he looks so wistly on me? +Truly sir, said my man, I think not, but my master is a stranger +come from <i>London</i>, and would gladly meet some acquaintance +to direct him where he may have lodging and horse-meat. Presently +the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition) overtook me with +unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to a lodging, and +caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst we +discoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to +him, as made him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master +<i>John Maxwell</i>) which money I am sure was the first that I +handled after I came from out the walls of <i>London</i>: but +having rested two hours and refreshed myself, the gentleman and I +walked to see the City and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" +id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> the Castle, which as my poor +unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The Castle on a lofty rock is so +strongly grounded, bounded, and founded, that by force of man it +can never be confounded; the foundation and walls are +unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarks invincible, +no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable. In a +word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in <i>Germany</i>, +the <i>Netherlands</i>, <i>Spain</i> and <i>England</i>, but they +must all give place to this unconquered Castle, both for strength +and situation.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Amongst the many memorable things +which I was shewed there, I noted especially a great piece of +ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, but it will serve to +defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire against any that +should assail or assault the Castle; it lies now +dismounted.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id= +"FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class= +"fnanchor">[12]</a> And it is so great within, that it was told +me that a child was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept +into it, lying on my back, and I am sure there was room enough +and spare for a greater than myself.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving the Castle, as it is +both defensive against my opposition, and magnific for lodging +and receite,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id= +"FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class= +"fnanchor">[13]</a> I descended lower to the City, wherein I +observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever <span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>mine +eyes beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that +length, (which is half an English mile from the Castle to a fair +port which they call the <i>Nether-Bow</i>) and from that port, +the street which they call the <i>Kenny-gate</i> is one quarter +of a mile more, down to the King's Palace, called +<i>Holy-rood-House</i>, the buildings on each side of the way +being all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, +and many bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein +are gentlemen's houses, much fairer than the buildings in the +High Street, for in the High Street the merchants and tradesmen +do dwell, but the gentlemen's mansions and goodliest houses are +obscurely founded in the aforesaid lanes: the walls are eight or +ten foot thick, exceeding strong, not built for a day, a week, or +a month, or a year; but from antiquity to posterity, for many +ages; there I found entertainment beyond my expectation or merit, +and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such variety, that +I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety. The +worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people there +such misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any +man had asked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could +not have made him a sober answer.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I was at his Majesty's Palace, a +stately and princely seat, wherein I saw a sumptuous chapel, most +richly adorned with all appurtenances belong<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>ing to +so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the inner court I saw +the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over a door +aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which +was written this inscription in Latin,</p> +<h4><i>Nobis hæc invicta miserunt, 106 proavi.</i></h4> +<p>I enquired what the English of it was? it was told me as +followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded.</p> +<h4><i>106, forefathers have left this to us +unconquered.</i></h4> +<p>This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms +or none in the world can truly write the like, that +notwithstanding so many inroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, +civil wars, and foreign hostilities, bloody battles, and mighty +foughten fields, that maugre the strength and policy of enemies, +that royal crown and sceptre hath from one hundred and seven +descents, kept still unconquered, and by the power of the King of +Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is now left +peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, the +God of peace defend and govern.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">But once more, a word or two of +<i>Edinburgh</i>, although I have scarcely given it that due +which belongs unto it, for their lofty and stately buildings, and +for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuades me that +they in former ages that first founded that city did not so well +in that they built it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id= +"Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> in so discommodious a place; for the +sea, and all navigable rivers being the chief means for the +enriching of towns and cities, by the reason of traffic with +foreign nations, with exportation, transportation, and receite of +variety of merchandizing; so this city had it been built but one +mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but it had long before +this been comparable to many a one of our greatest towns and +cities in <i>Europe</i>, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, +state, and riches. It is said, that King <i>James</i> the fifth +(of famous memory) did graciously offer to purchase for them, and +to bestow upon them freely, certain low and pleasant grounds a +mile from them on the seashore, with these conditions, that they +should pull down their city, and build it in that more commodious +place, but the citizens refused it; and so now it is like (for +me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such another proffer of +removal will not be presented to them, till two days after the +fair.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Now have with you for +<i>Leith</i>, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well +entertained by Master <i>Barnard Lindsay</i>, one of the grooms +of his Majesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, +because I brought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they +would not pass for current there) he therefore did replenish the +vaustity<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> of my empty +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg +34]</a></span>purse, and discharged a piece at me with two +bullets of gold, each being in value worth eleven shillings white +money; and I was creditably informed, that within the compass of +one year, there was shipped away from that only port of +<i>Leith</i>, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats, and barley +into <i>Spain</i>, <i>France</i>, and other foreign parts, and +every bole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that +from <i>Leith</i> only hath been transported three hundred and +twenty thousand bushels of corn; besides some hath been shipped +away from Saint <i>Andrews</i>, from <i>Dundee</i>, +<i>Aberdeen</i>, <i>Dysart</i>, <i>Kirkaldy</i>, <i>Kinghorn</i>, +<i>Burntisland</i>, <i>Dunbar</i>, and other portable towns, +which makes me to wonder that a kingdom so populous as it is, +should nevertheless sell so much bread-corn beyond the seas, and +yet to have more than sufficient for themselves.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So I having viewed the haven and +town of <i>Leith</i>, took a passage boat to see the new wondrous +Well,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> to which many a one +that is not well, comes far and near in hope to be made well: +indeed I did hear that it had done much good, and that it hath a +rare operation to expel or kill divers maladies; as to provoke +appetite, to help much for the avoiding of the gravel in the +bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, with many other +virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God, having +no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg +35]</a></span> need of it, did make no great inquisition what it +had done, but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to +be more pleasant than any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet +as clear as crystal, and I did observe that though a man did +drink a quart, a pottle, or as much as his belly could contain, +yet it never offended or lay heavy upon the stomach, no more than +if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I went two miles from it to a town +called <i>Burntisland</i>, where I found many of my especial good +friends, as Master <i>Robert Hay</i>, one of the Grooms of his +Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master <i>David Drummond</i>, one of his +Gentlemens-Pensioners, Master <i>James Acmootye</i>, one of the +Grooms of the Privy Chamber, Captain <i>Murray</i>, Sir <i>Henry +Witherington</i> Knight, Captain <i>Tyrie</i>, and divers others: +and there Master <i>Hay</i>, Master <i>Drummond</i>, and the good +old Captain <i>Murray</i> did very bountifully furnish me with +gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with those aforesaid +gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strange +accident, which I think worth the relating.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I know not upon what occasion they +began to talk of being at sea in former times, and I (amongst the +rest) said, I was at the taking of <i>Cadiz</i>; whereto an +English gentleman replied, that he was the next good voyage after +at the Islands: I answered him<span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> that I was there also. +He demanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the +Queens: why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same +ship, and my name is <i>Witherington</i>.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Sir, said I, I do remember the +name well, but by reason that it is near two and twenty years +since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge of you. Well +said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some +remarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told +him two or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, +said I, I will tell you another which (perhaps) you have not +forgotten; as our ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at +anchor at the Isle of <i>Flores</i> (one of the Isles of the +<i>Azores</i>) there were some fourteen men and boys of our ship, +that for novelty would go ashore, and see what fruit the island +did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; so being +landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones, +heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, +muskmellions, and potatoes; in +the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the sea was so +extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land to +fetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the +rocks; this continued five days, so that we were almost famished +for want of food: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the +providence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id= +"Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> of God I happened into a cave or +poor habitation, where I found fifteen loaves of bread, each of +the quantity of a penny loaf in <i>England</i>, I having a +valiant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty +hours breeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: +and as I was about to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did +put twelve of them into my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went +mumbling out of the cave, leaning my back against a tree, when +upon the sudden a gentleman came to me, and said, "Friend, what +are you eating?" "Bread," (quoth I,) "For God's sake," said he, +"give me some." With that, I put my hand into my breech, (being +my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he received with +many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he +would.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">I had no sooner told this tale, +but Sir <i>Henry Witherington</i> did acknowledge himself to be +the man that I had given the loaf unto two and twenty years +before, where I found the proverb true, that men have more +privilege than mountains in meeting.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In what great measure he did +requite so small a courtesy, I will relate in this following +discourse in my return through <i>Northumberland</i>: so leaving +my man at the town of <i>Burntisland</i>, I told him, I would but +go to <i>Stirling</i>, and see the Castle there, and withal to +see my honourable friends the Earl of<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +<i>Mar</i>, and Sir <i>William Murray</i> Knight, Lord of +<i>Abercairney</i>, and that I would return within two days at +the most: but it fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and +thirty days before I could get back again out of these noble +men's company. The whole progress of my travel with them, and the +cause of my stay I cannot with gratefulness omit; and thus it +was.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">A worthy gentleman named Master +<i>John Fenton</i>, did bring me on my way six miles to +<i>Dunfermline</i>, where I was well entertained, and lodged at +Master <i>John Gibb</i> his house, one of the Grooms of his +Majesty's Bed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King +hath: withal, I was well entertained there by Master +<i>Crighton</i> at his own house, who went with me, and shewed me +the Queens Palace; (a delicate and Princely Mansion) withal I saw +the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey, with fair +gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all which +with fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, +were annexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, +which though it be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in +former times been much larger. But I taking my leave of +<i>Dunfermline</i>, would needs go and see the truly noble Knight +Sir <i>George Bruce</i>, at a town called the <i>Culross</i>: +there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare, and +after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg +39]</a></span> all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to +see his most admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could +work wonders) is a wonder; for myself neither in any travels that +I have been in, nor any history that I have read, or any +discourse that I have heard, did never see, read, or hear of any +work of man that might parallel or be equivalent with this +unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all I can say of it, +cannot describe it according to the worthiness of his vigilant +industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainer of +it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and so +accomplished a profit to the commonwealth shall be raked and +smothered in the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at +the description of it, although I amongst writers, am like he +that worse may hold the candle.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The mine hath two ways into it, +the one by sea and the other by land; but a man may go into it by +land, and return the same way if he please, and so he may enter +into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it: but I for +variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may +object, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being +into the sea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the +mine? To which objection thus I answer, that at low water mark, +the sea being ebbed away, and a great part of the sand bare; upon +this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg +40]</a></span></p> +same sand (being mixed with rocks and crags) did the master of +this great work build a round circular frame of stone, very +thick, strong, and joined together with glutinous or bituminous +matter, so high withal that the sea at the highest flood, or the +greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neither dissolve the +stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflow the +height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he did +set workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments +fit for such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into +and through a rock. At last they found that which they expected, +which was sea coal, they following the vein of the mine, did dig +forward still: so that in the space of eight and twenty, or nine +and twenty years, they have digged more +than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are at work +below, an hundred of the greatest ships in <i>Britain</i> man +sail over their heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut +like an arch or a vault, all that great length, with many nooks +and bye-ways: and it is so made, that a man may walk upright in +the most places, both in and out. Many poor people are there set +on work, which otherwise through the want of employment would +perish. But when I had seen the mine, and was come forth of it +again; after my thanks given to Sir <i>George Bruce</i>, I told +him, that if the plotters of the +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg +41]</a></span></p> +Powder Treason in England had seen this mine, that they (perhaps) +would have attempted to have left the Parliament House, and have +undermined the Thames, and so to have blown up the barges and +wherries, wherein the King, and all the estates of our kingdom +were. Moreover, I said, that I couldafford to turn tapster at +<i>London</i>, so that I had but<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">one quarter of a mile of his mine +to make me</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 6.5em;">a cellar, to keep beer and +bottled ale</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 8.5em;">in. But leaving these jests +in</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 9.5em;">prose, I will relate a +few</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 11.5em;">verses that I +made</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 12.5em;">merrily of this</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15em;">mine.</span><br /> +<br /> + +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;"> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="I" src= +"images/tay_page_45.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +that have wasted, months, weeks, +days, and hours<br /> +In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers,<br /> +Without all measure, measuring many paces,<br /> +And with my pen describing many places,<br /> +With few additions of mine own devising,<br /> +(Because I have a smack of <i>Coryatizing</i><a name= +"FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>)<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg +42]</a></span>Our <i>Mandeville</i>, <i>Primaleon</i>, <i>Don +Quixote</i>,<br /> +Great <i>Amadis</i>, or <i>Huon</i>, travelled not<br /> +As I have done, or been where I have been,<br /> +Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen;<br /> +Nor Britain's <i>Odcombe</i> (<i>Zany</i> brave +<i>Ulysses</i>)<br /> +In all his ambling, saw the like as this is.<br /> +I was in (would I could describe it well)<br /> +A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell,<br /> +And as by water I was wafted in,<br /> +I thought that I in <i>Charon's</i> boat had been,<br /> +But being at the entrance landed thus,<br /> +Three men there (instead of <i>Cerberus</i>)<br /> +Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light<br /> +To guide us in that vault of endless night,<br /> +There young and old with glim'ring candles burning<br /> +Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning,<br /> +Some in a hole with baskets and with bags,<br /> +Resembling furies, or infernal hags:<br /> +There one like <i>Tantalus</i> feeding, and there one,<br /> +Like <i>Sisyphus</i> he rolls the restless stone.<br /> +Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit,<br /> +Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet<a name= +"FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg +43]</a></span>For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell,<br /> +There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell;<br /> +And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory,<br /> +Than <i>Rome</i> doth by fantastic Purgatory.<br /> +A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep,<br /> +In deepness far more deep, than <i>Neptunes</i> deep,<br /> +Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high)<br /> +Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky:<br /> +That had I died in that <i>Cimmerian</i><a name="FNanchor_18_18" +id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class= +"fnanchor">[18]</a> room,<br /> +Four elements had covered o'er my tomb:<br /> +Thus farther than the bottom did I go,<br /> +(And many Englishmen have not done so;)<br /> +Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales,<br /> +And regiments of fish with fins and scales,<br /> +'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide,<br /> +And where great ships may at an anchor ride:<br /> +Thus in by sea, and out by land I past,<br /> +And took my leave of good Sir <i>George</i> at last.<br /></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The sea at certain places doth +leak, or soak into the mine, which by the industry of Sir +<i>George Bruce</i>, is all conveyed to one well near the land; +where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horses +and a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with +thirty-six buckets fastened <span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>to the chain, of the +which eighteen go down still to be filled, and eighteen ascend up +to be emptied, which do empty themselves (without any man's +labour) into a trough that conveys the water into the sea again; +by which means he saves his mine, which otherwise would be +destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make every week ninety or +a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of +<i>Scotland</i>, some he sends into <i>England</i>, and very much +into <i>Germany</i>: all which shows the painful industry with +God's blessings to such worthy endeavours: I must with many +thanks remember his courtesy to me, and lastly how he sent his +man to guide me ten miles on the way to <i>Stirling</i>, where by +the way I saw the outside of a fair and stately house called +<i>Allaway</i>, belonging to the Earl of <i>Mar</i> which by +reason that his honour was not there, I past by and went to +<i>Stirling</i>, where I was entertained and lodged at one Master +John <i>Archibalds</i>, where all my want was that I wanted room +to contain half the good cheer that I might have had there! he +had me into the castle, which in few words I do compare to +<i>Windsor</i> for situation, much more than <i>Windsor</i> in +strength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that +his Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath +neither in <i>England</i> or <i>Scotland</i>, except Westminster +Hall which is now no dwelling hall<span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> for a prince, being +long since metamorphosed into a house for the law and the +profits.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">This goodly hall was built by King +<i>James</i> the fourth, that married King <i>Henry</i> the +Eight's sister, and after was slain at <i>Flodden field</i>; but +it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, +for length, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle +is built upon a rock very lofty, and much beyond <i>Edinburgh</i> +Castle in state and magnificence, and not much inferior to it in +strength, the rooms of it are lofty, with carved works on the +ceilings, the doors of each room being so high, that a man may +ride upright on horseback into any chamber or lodging. There is +also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables, and all other +necessary offices, all very stately and befitting the majesty of +a king.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Stirling</i> I rode to +Saint <i>Johnstone</i>,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id= +"FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class= +"fnanchor">[19]</a> a fine town it is, but it is much decayed, by +reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly coming to lodge there. +There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of the house his +name being <i>Patrick Pitcairne</i>, where my entertainment was +with good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. +Mine host told me that the Earl of <i>Mar</i>, and Sir <i>William +Murray</i> of <i>Abercairney</i> were gone to the great hunting +to the <i>Brae</i> of <i>Mar</i><a name="FNanchor_20_20" id= +"FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class= +"fnanchor">[20]</a>; but if<span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> I made haste I might +perhaps find them at a town called <i>Brekin</i>, or +<i>Brechin</i>, two and thirty miles from Saint <i>Johnstone</i> +whereupon I took a guide to <i>Brechin</i> the next day, but +before I came, my lord was gone from thence four days.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Then I took another guide, which +brought me such strange ways over mountains and rocks, that I +think my horse never went the like; and I am sure I never saw any +ways that might fellow them I did go through a country called +<i>Glen Esk</i>, where passing by the side of a hill, so steep as +the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a +yard broad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look +down into the bottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he +had fallen without recovery a good mile +downright; but I thank God, at night I came to a lodging in the +Laird of <i>Edzell's</i> land, where I lay at an Irish house, the +folks not being able to speak scarce any English, but I supped +and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I was enforced to +rise, I was so stung with Irish mosquitoes, a creature that hath +six legs, and lives like a monster altogether upon man's flesh, +they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and this house +was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in +<i>England</i>, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to +me the <i>A.</i> and the <i>Z.</i> the prologue and the epilogue, +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg +47]</a></span> first and the last that I had in all my travels +from <i>Edinburgh</i>; and had not this Highland Irish house +helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all +<i>Scotland</i> had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse +upon me: but with a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, +and was never more troubled with them.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The next day I travelled over an +exceeding high mountain, called mount <i>Skene</i>, where I found +the valley very warm before I went up it; but when I came to the +top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head with cold, like +Virginal's jacks;<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id= +"FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class= +"fnanchor">[21]</a> and withal, a most familiar mist embraced me +round, that I could not see thrice my length any way: withal, it +yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all my +clothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, +in wetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six +miles, the way so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and +long heath, that a dog with three legs will out-run a horse with +four; for do what we could, we were four hours before we could +pass it.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus with extreme travel, +ascending and descending, mounting and alighting, I came at night +to the place where I would be, in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>, which +is a large county, all composed of such mountains, that Shooter's +Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate <span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>Hill, Hampstead Hill, +Birdlip Hill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in +comparison, or like a liver, or a gizard +under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude of their tops, +or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount <i>Ben +Aven</i>, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a +night-cap: (for you must understand, that the oldest man alive +never saw but the snow was on the top of divers of those hills, +both in summer, as well as in winter.) There did I find the truly +Noble and Right Honourable Lords <i>John Erskine</i> Earl of Mar, +<i>James Stuart</i> Earl of Murray, <i>George Gordon</i> Earl of +Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, <i>James +Erskine</i> Earl of Buchan, and <i>John</i> Lord <i>Erskine</i>, +son and heir to the Earl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my +much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir +<i>William Murray</i> Knight, of <i>Abercairney</i>, and hundred +of others Knights, Esquires, and their followers; all and every +man in general in one habit, as if <i>Lycurgus</i> had been +there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, which is +the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many +of the nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do +come into these Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform +themselves to the habit of the Highland men, who for the most +part speak nothing but Irish;<span class='pagenum'><a name= +"Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> and in former time were +those people which were called the <i>Red-shanks</i>.<a name= +"FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Their habit is shoes +with but one sole apiece; stockings (which they call short hose) +made of a warm stuff of divers colours, which they call tartan: +as for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers never wore +any, but a jerkin of the same stuff that their hose is of, their +garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw, with a plaid +about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, of +much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps +on their heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their +neck; and thus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows +and forked arrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, +dirks, and Lochaber axes. With these arms I found many of them +armed for the hunting. As for their attire, any man of what +degree soever that comes amongst them, must not disdain to wear +it; for if they do, then they will disdain to hunt, or willingly, +to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind unto them, and be in +their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, and the sport +will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg +50]</a></span>many noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to +proceed to the hunting.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">My good Lord of <i>Mar</i> having +put me into that shape,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id= +"FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class= +"fnanchor">[23]</a> I rode with him from his house, where I saw +the ruins of an old castle, called the castle of +<i>Kindroghit</i> [Castletown]. It was built by King <i>Malcolm +Canmore</i> (for a hunting house) who reigned in <i>Scotland</i> +when <i>Edward</i> the Confessor, <i>Harold</i>, and Norman +<i>William</i> reigned in <i>England</i>: I speak of it, because +it was the last house that I saw in those parts; for I was the +space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corn +field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses, +wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I +should never have seen a house again.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id= +"FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class= +"fnanchor">[24]</a></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus the first day we travelled +eight miles, where there small cottages built on purpose to lodge +in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my good Lord +<i>Erskine</i>, he commanded that I should always be lodged in +his lodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many +kettles and pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, +with great variety of cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and +stewed beef, mutton, goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, +hens, capons, chickens, partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, +capercailzies, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id= +"Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>termagants [ptarmigans]; good ale, +sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante) with most potent +<i>Aquavitæ</i>.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">All these, and more than these we +had continually, in superfluous abundance, caught by Falconers, +Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by my Lord's tenants and purveyors +to victual our camp, which consisted of fourteen or fifteen +hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting is this: five +or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they do +disperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles +compass, they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, +three, or four hundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the +Nobleman shall appoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and +gentlemen of their companies, do ride or go to the said places, +sometimes wading up to their middles through bournes and rivers: +and then: they being come to the place, do lie down on the +ground, till those foresaid scouts which are called the Tinchel, +do bring down the deer: but as the proverb says of a bad cook, so +these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; for besides their +bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hear now and +then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldom +discharge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours or +thereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round +about us, (their heads making a show like<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> a +wood) which being followed close by the Tinchel, are chased down +into the valley where we lay; then all the valley on each side +being waylaid with a hundred couple of strong Irish greyhounds, +they are let loose as the occasion serves upon the herd of deer, +so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, in the space +of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after are +disposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty +miles, and more than enough left for us to make merry withal at +our rendezvous. I liked the sport so well, that I made these two +sonnets following.</p> + +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;"> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="W" src= +"images/tay_page_56.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> + +hy should I waste invention to +indite,<br /> +<i>Ovidian</i> fictions, or Olympian games?<br /> +My misty Muse enlightened with more light,<br /> +To a more noble pitch her aim she frames.<br /> +I must relate to my great Master <span class= +"smcap">James</span>,<br /> +The Caledonian annual peaceful war;<br /> +How noble minds do eternize their fames,<br /> +By martial meeting in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>:<br /> +How thousand gallant spirits came near and far,<br /> +With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns,<br /> +That all the troop to men of judgment, are<br /> +The God of Wars great never conquered sons,<br /> +The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts,<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg +53]</a></span>And last the victor on the vanquished feasts.</p> +<br /> + +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;"> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="I" src= +"images/tay_page_45.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +f sport like this can on the +mountains be,<br /> +Where <i>Phœbus</i> flames can never melt the snow;<br /> +Then let who list delight in vales below,<br /> +Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me:<br /> +What braver object can man's eyesight see,<br /> +Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights,<br /> +As if they were prepared for sundry fights,<br /> +Yet all in sweet society agree?<br /> +Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs,<br /> +'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills,<br /> +Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs,<br /> +Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills.<br /> +Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat,<br /> +The Highland games and minds, are high and great.<br /></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Being come to our lodgings, there +was such baking, boiling, roasting, and stewing, as if Cook +Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devil in his feathers: +and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as an indifferent +May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of <i>Mar</i> will give +any man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that +are as good as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they +were in any place near the Thames, or<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> any +other portable river) the best earldom in England or Scotland +either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growing there, as +would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world) +for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, +barks, and water-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world +these forty years.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">This sounds like a lie to an +unbeliever; but I and many thousands do know that I speak within +the compass of truth: for indeed (the more is the pity) they do +grow so far from any passage of water, and withal in such rocky +mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to be passable, +either with boat, horse, or cart.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus having spent certain days in +hunting in the Brae of <i>Mar</i>, we went to the next county +called <i>Badenoch</i>, belonging to the Earl of <i>Enzie</i>, +where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; +after four or five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for +that year; and took our journey toward a strong house of the +Earl's, called <i>Ruthven</i> in <i>Badenoch</i>, where my Lord +of <i>Enzie</i> and his noble Countess (being daughter to the +Earl of <i>Argyle</i>) did give us most noble welcome three +days.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence we went to a place +called <i>Balloch Castle</i>,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id= +"FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class= +"fnanchor">[25]</a> a fair and stately house, a worthy gentleman +being the owner of it, called the Laird of <i>Grant</i>; +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg +55]</a></span>his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descended +being sister to the right Honourable Earl of <i>Athol</i>, and to +Sir <i>Patrick Murray</i> Knight; she being both inwardly and +outwardly plentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: +so that our cheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less +than they could afford us. There stayed there four days, four +Earls, one Lord, divers Knights and Gentlemen, and their +servants, footmen and horses; and every meal four long tables +furnished with all varieties: our first and second course being +three score dishes at one board; and after that always a banquet: +and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to +<i>Edinburgh</i> I think I had there drunk my last.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The fifth day with much ado we +gate from thence to <i>Tarnaway</i>, a goodly house of the Earl +of <i>Murrays</i>,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id= +"FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class= +"fnanchor">[26]</a> where that Right Honourable Lord and his Lady +did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in all +variety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed +the County of <i>Murray</i> is the most pleasantest and plentiful +country in all <i>Scotland</i>; being plain land, that a coach +may be driven more than four and thirty miles one way in it, +alongst by the sea-coast.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence I went to <i>Elgin</i> +in <i>Murray</i>,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id= +"FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class= +"fnanchor">[27]</a> an ancient City, where there stood a fair and +beautiful church with three steeples, the walls of it and the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg +56]</a></span>steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, +and many marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy +personages all broken and defaced: this was done in the time when +ruin bare rule, and Knox knocked down churches.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Elgin</i> we went to the +Bishop of <i>Murray</i> his house which is called <i>Spiny</i>, +or <i>Spinay</i>: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name +of <i>Douglas</i>, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted +the honour of himself and his guests.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From thence we departed to the +Lord Marquess of <i>Huntlys</i> to a sumptuous house of his, +named the <i>Bog of Geethe</i>, where our entertainment was like +himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two days +stay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the +Lords to depart towards <i>Edinburgh</i>: the Noble Marquess, the +Earl of <i>Mar</i>, <i>Murray</i>, <i>Enzie</i>, <i>Buchan</i>, +and the Lord <i>Erskine</i>; all these, I thank them, gave me +gold to defray my charges in my journey.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So after five and thirty days +hunting and travel I returning, past by another stately mansion +of the Lord Marquesses, called <i>Stroboggy</i>, and so over +<i>Carny</i> mount to <i>Brechin</i>, where a wench that was born +deaf and dumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) +and she opening the bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had +I been a <i>Sardanapalus</i>, or a <i>Heliogabulus</i>, I think +that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg +57]</a></span> either the great travel over the mountains had +tamed me; or if not, her beauty could never have moved me. The +best parts of her were, that her breath was as sweet as +sugar-candian,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id= +"FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class= +"fnanchor">[28]</a> being very well shouldered beneath the waste; +and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changed +her maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. But +howsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of +my sleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no +sooner knew who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out +of my chamber; and for want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my +door with a great chair.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Thus having escaped one of the +seven deadly sins as at <i>Brechin</i>, I departed from thence to +a town called <i>Forfor</i>; and from thence to <i>Dundee</i>, +and so to <i>Kinghorn</i>, <i>Burntisland</i>, and so to +<i>Edinburgh</i>, where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of +falls and bruises, which I received in my travel in the Highland +mountainous hunting. Great welcome I had showed me all my stay at +<i>Edinburgh</i>, by many worthy gentlemen, namely, old Master +<i>George Todrigg</i>, Master <i>Henry Livingston</i>, Master +<i>James Henderson</i>, Master <i>John Maxwell</i>, and a number +of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as may +be imagined.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg +58]</a></span></p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Now the day before I came from +<i>Edinburgh</i>, I went to <i>Leith</i>, where I found my long +approved and assured good friend Master <i>Benjamin Jonson</i>, +at one Master <i>John Stuarts</i> house; I thank him for his +great kindness towards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave +me a piece of gold of two and twenty shillings<a name= +"FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> to drink his health +in <i>England</i>. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id= +"Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>And withal, willed me to remember his +kind commendations to all his friends: So with a friendly +farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to see him in a +worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen that know +his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much +respective love he is worthily entertained.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Leith</i> I returned +to <i>Edinburgh</i>, and within the port or gate, called the +<i>Nether-Bow</i>, I discharged my pockets of all the money I +had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my +first coming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came +moneyless out of it again; having in company to convey me out, +certain gentlemen, amongst the which Master <i>James +Acherson</i>, Laird of <i>Gasford</i>, a gentleman that brought +me to his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id= +"Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>house, where with great entertainment +he and his good wife did welcome me.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">On the morrow he sent one of his +men to bring me to a place called <i>Adam</i>, to Master <i>John +Acmootye</i> his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty's +Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master +<i>Alexander</i>, and Master <i>James Acmootye</i>, I found both +cheer and welcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any +former place.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Amongst our viands that we had +there, I must not forget the Sole and Goose (<i>sic</i>), a most +delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance in a little rock +called the <i>Bass</i>, which stands two miles into the sea. It +is very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat +oysters, standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, +unsanctified without grace; and after it is eaten, it must be +well liquored with two or three good rouses<a name= +"FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> of sherry or canary +sack. The Lord or owner of the <i>Bass</i> doth profit at the +least two hundred pound yearly by those geese; the <i>Bass</i> +itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of a mile +in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but one +small entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in +it; and on the top of it a well of pure fresh water.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Adam</i>, Master +<i>John</i> and Master <i>James Acmootye</i> went to the town of +<i>Dunbar</i> with me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" +id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>where ten Scottish pints of wine +were consumed, and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at +Master <i>James Baylies</i> house I took leave, and Master +<i>James Acmootye</i> coming for <i>England</i>, said, that if I +would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt +that place and <i>London</i>. Now I having no money nor means for +travel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last +my want persuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's +undeserved courtesy. So that night he brought me to a place +called <i>Cockburnspath</i>, where we lodged at an inn, the like +of which I dare say, is not in any of his Majesty's Dominions. +And for to show my thankfulness to Master <i>William Arnot</i> +and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain their bountiful +entertainment of guests, which is this:</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty +men and horses come to lodge at their house, the men shall have +flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with all variety of good cheer, +good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shall want neither hay +or provender: and at the morning at their departure the reckoning +is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, his chief +delight being only to give strangers entertainment <i>gratis</i>: +and I am sure, that in <i>Scotland</i> beyond <i>Edinburgh</i>, I +have been at houses like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" +id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> castles for building; the master +of the house his beaver being his blue bonnet, one that will wear +no other shirts, but of the flax that grows on his own ground, +and of his wife's, daughters', or servants' spinning; that hath +his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of his own sheep's +backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer, +draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turn +bankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintains +thirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day +relieving three or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides +all this, can give noble entertainment for four or five days +together to five or six earls and lords, besides knights, +gentlemen and their followers, if they be three or four hundred +men, and horse of them, where they shall not only feed but feast, +and not feast but banquet, this is a man that desires to know +nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whose greatest +cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, and +hospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless +fashions, he never tries his strength to bear four or five +hundred acres on his back at once, his legs are always at +liberty, not being fettered with golden garters, and manacled +with artificial roses, whose weight (sometime) is the last +reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of these<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +worthy housekeepers there are in <i>Scotland</i>, amongst some of +them I was entertained; from whence I did truly gather these +aforesaid observations.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Cockburnspath</i>, +we rode to <i>Berwick</i>, where the worthy old Soldier and +ancient Knight, Sir <i>William Bowyer</i>, made me welcome, but +contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master <i>James +Acmootye</i> paid all charges: but at <i>Berwick</i> there was a +grievous chance happened, which I think not fit the relation to +be omitted.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">In the river of <i>Tweed</i>, +which runs by <i>Berwick</i>, are taken by fishermen that dwell +there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that many households +and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but (how +long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boy +whatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long +amongst them, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas +last, on a Sunday, the salmons played in such great abundance in +the river, that some of the fishermen (contrary to God's law and +their own order) took boats and nets and fished, and caught near +three hundred salmons; but from that time until Michaelmas day +that I was there, which was nine weeks, and heard the report of +it, and saw the poor people's miserable lamentations, they had +not seen one salmon in the river; and some of them were in +despair that they should never see any more there; affirming +it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg +64]</a></span> to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation +of the Sabbath.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The thirtieth of September we rode +from <i>Berwick</i> to <i>Belford</i> from <i>Belford</i> to +<i>Alnwick</i>, the next day from <i>Alnwick</i> to +<i>Newcastle</i>, where I found the noble Knight, Sir <i>Henry +Witherington</i>; who, because I would have no gold nor silver, +gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loaf of bread that I had +given him two and twenty years before, at the Island of +<i>Flores</i>, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at +<i>Newcastle</i> a great many of my worthy friends, which were +all coming for <i>London</i>, namely, Master <i>Robert Hay</i>, +and Master <i>David Drummond</i>, where I was welcomed at Master +<i>Nicholas Tempests</i> house. From <i>Newcastle</i> I rode with +those gentlemen to <i>Durham</i>, to <i>Darlington</i>, to +<i>Northallerton</i>, and to <i>Topcliffe</i> in +<i>Yorkshire</i>, where I took my leave of them, and would needs +try my pennyless fortunes by myself, and see the city of +<i>York</i>, where I was lodged at my right worshipful good +friend, Master Doctor <i>Hudson</i> one of his Majesty's +chaplains, who went with me, and shewed me the goodly Minster +Church there, and the most admirable, rare-wrought, +unfellowed<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id= +"FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class= +"fnanchor">[31]</a> chapter house.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>York</i> I rode to +<i>Doncaster</i>, where my horses were well fed at the Bear, but +myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir <i>Robert +Anstruther</i> at his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id= +"Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir +<i>Robert Swifts</i> house, he being then High Sheriff of +<i>Yorkshire</i>, where with their good Ladies, and the right +Honourable the Lord <i>Sanquhar</i>, I was stayed two nights and +one day, Sir <i>Robert Anstruther</i> (I thank him) not only +paying for my two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a +letter to <i>Newark</i> upon <i>Trent</i>, twenty eight miles in +my way, where Master <i>George Atkinson</i> mine host made me as +welcome, as if I had been a French Lord, and what was to be paid, +as I called for nothing, I paid as much; and left the reckoning +with many thanks to Sir <i>Robert Anstruther</i>.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">So leaving <i>Newark</i>, with +another gentleman that overtook me, we came at night to +<i>Stamford</i>, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead) +where I delivered a letter from the Lord <i>Sanquhar</i>; which +caused Master <i>Bates</i> and his wife, being the master and +mistress of the house, to make me and the gentleman that was with +me great cheer for nothing.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">From <i>Stamford</i> the next day +we rode to <i>Huntington</i>, where we lodged at the Postmaster's +house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is <i>Riggs</i>. He was +informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennyless +progress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with +us, and very bountifully called for three quarts of wine and +sugar, and four jugs of beer. He did drink and<span class= +'pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> begin +healths like a horse-leech and swallowed down his cups without +feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, or nine pound of sponge in +his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drank post, striving and +calling by all means to make the reckoning great, or to make us +men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired like a +jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the +terrible shot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn +for his superfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">But leaving him, I left +<i>Huntington</i>, and rode on the Sunday to <i>Puckeridge</i>, +where Master <i>Holland</i> at the Falcon, (mine old +acquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, +my man, and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid +him with, not a penny of money.</p> +<p style="text-indent: 1.5em;">The next day I came to +<i>London</i>, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, I went to a +house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to +<i>Islington</i>, to the sign of the Maidenhead,<a name= +"FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> staying till +Wednesday, that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, +but that Wednesday was my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" +id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>first coming; where with all love +I was entertained with much good cheer: and after supper we had a +play of the Life and Death of <i>Guy of Warwick</i>,<a name= +"FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> played by the Right +Honourable the Earl of <i>Derby</i> his men. And so on the +Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, I came home to +my house in <i>London</i>.</p> +<table summary="deco" align="center" style= +"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src= +"images/tay_page_71a.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3>THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS<br /> +AND OTHERS.</h3> +<p style="margin-left: 8.5em;"> +<table summary="deco" align="left" style= +"margin-top: 0em; margin-right: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="T" src= +"images/tay_page_71b.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +hus did I neither spend, or beg, +or ask,<br /> +By any course, direct or indirectly:<br /> +But in each tittle I performed my task,<br /> +According to my bill most circumspectly.<br /> +I vow to God, I have done <span class="smcap">Scotland</span> +wrong,<br /> +(And (justly) against me it may bring an action)<br /> +I have not given it that right which doth belong,<br /> +For which I am half guilty of detraction:<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg +68]</a></span>Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw,<br /> +Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter,<br /> +And so my name I should in question draw,<br /> +Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter:<br /> +Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen,<br /> +That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap,<br /> +In such abundant food for beasts and men;<br /> +That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap.<br /> +Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe;<br /> +And what I do believe, I know is true:<br /> +And what is true unto your hands I give,<br /> +That what I give, may be believed of you.<br /> +But as for him that says I lie or dote,<br /> +I do return, and turn the lie in's throat.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thus gentlemen, amongst you take +my ware,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">You share my thanks, and I your +moneys share.</span><br /></p> +<p style="margin-left: 12.5em; height: 4pt;"><i>Yours in all +observance and gratefulness,</i></p> +<p style="margin-left: 16.5em;height: 4pt;">ever to be +commanded,</p> +<br /> +<p style="margin-left: 20.5em;"><span class="smcap">John +Taylor</span>.<br /></p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>FINIS.</h4> +<table summary="deco" align="center" style= +"margin-top: 6em; margin-bottom: 6em;"> +<tr> +<td nowrap="nowrap" align="left"><img alt="decoration" src= +"images/tay_page_72.png" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<div class="footnotes"> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Provant.</span>—Provender; provision.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Fegary.</span>—A vagary.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Trundle.</span>—<i>i.e.</i>, John Trundle of the +sign of <i>No-body</i> (see note page 6).</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> It is +reasonable to conjecture that at this date the custom of +"Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue—or, +<i>No-body</i> would have taken the oath.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Named Lean and Fen.</span>—Some jest is intended +here on the Host's name.—Qy., Leanfen, or, the anagram of +<span class="smcap">A. Fennel</span>.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">No-Body</span> was the singular sign of John Trundle, a +ballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who +seems to have accompanied our author as far as <i>Whetstone</i> +on his "Penniless Pilgrimage"—and, certainly up to this +point a very "wet" one!] In one of Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is +introduced, "attyred in a payre of Breeches, which were made to +come up to his neck, with his armes out at his pockets and cap +drowning his face." This comedy was "printed for John Trundle and +are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne of No-Body." +A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection at Britwell +House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body," is accompanied by a +woodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a +torn money-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken +pots, pans, bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. +Above him is a scroll in black-letter:—</p> +<p>"<span class="bantq" style= +"font-size: 14pt;">Nobody.is.my.Name.that.Beyreth.Every.Bodyes.Blame</span>."</p> +<p>The ballad commences as follows:—</p> +<p><br /> +"Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe,<br /> +So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">But nowe, beholde, here I +am,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Whom all the worlde doeth +diffame;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Long have they also scorned +me,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">And locked my mouthe for speking +free.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">As many a Godly man they have so +served</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Which unto them God's truth hath +shewed;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Of such they have burned and +hanged some.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">That unto their ydolatrye wold +not come:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The Ladye Truthe they have locked +in cage,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Saying of her Nobodye had +knowledge.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">For as much nowe as they name +Nobodye</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">I thinke verilye they speke of +me:</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Whereffore to answere I nowe +beginne—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">The locke of my mouthe is opened +with ginne,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Wrought by no man, but by God's +grace,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Unto whom be prayse in every +place," &c.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 8em;">Larwood and Hotten's <i>History +of Signboards</i>.</span><br /></p></div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Pulse.</span>—All sorts of leguminous seeds.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> See Dedication +to <i>The Scourge of Baseness</i>.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <span class= +"smcap">Master Doctor Holland.</span>—The once well-known +Philemon Holland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age," +published translations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History," +1601; Camden's "Britannica," &c. He is said to have used in +translation more paper and fewer pens than any other writer +before or since, and who "would not let Suetonius be +Tranquillus." Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Edmund Branthwaite.</span>—Robert +Branthwaite, William Branthwaite <i>Cant.</i>, and "Thy assured +friend" R. B., have each written Commendatory Verses to +<span class="smcap">all the Works of John Taylor</span>. London +1630. And Southey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets," +has the following:—"One might have hoped in these parts for +a happy meeting between John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal +memory; indeed it is likely that the Water-Poet and the +Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, and that the latter may have +introduced him to his connections hereabout, Branthwaite being +the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brother having married +a daughter of this Sir John Dalston."</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Pierce Penniless</span>, by Thomas Nash. +London, 1592.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> This +"ordnance of iron" still exists there, and is historically known +as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg."</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Receite.</span>—A receptacle.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Vaustity.</span>—Emptiness.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> <i>See</i> +Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb. 1618.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Coryatizing.</span>—Thomas Coryate, an +English traveller, who called himself the "Odcombian +leg-stretcher." He was the son of the rector of Odcombe, and in +1611 published an account of his travels on the Continent with +the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastily gobled up in +five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia, commonly +called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some +parts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in the +hungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now +dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling members of this +Kingdome, &c. London, printed by W. S., Anno Domini 1611." +Taylor had an especial grudge against Coryat, for having had +influence enough to procure his "Laugh and be Fat"—directed +against the traveller—to be burned; and that he never +failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge," may be seen in the many +pieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities," +even after his death.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Tophet.</span>—The Hebrew name for +<i>Hell</i>.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Cimmerian.</span>—Pertaining to the +Cimmerii, or their country; extremely and perpetually dark. The +Cimmerii were an ancient people of the land now called the +Crimea, and their country being subject to heavy fogs, was fabled +to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancient poets +also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near +Lake Avernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to +visit.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Perth.</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Braemar.</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Virginal Jack.</span>—A keyed +instrument resembling a spinet.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Red-shanks.</span>—A contemptuous +appellation for Scottish Highland clansmen and native Irish, with +reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and "As lively as a +<i>Red-Shank</i>" is still a proverbial saying:—"And we +came into Ireland, where they would have landed in the north +parts. But I would not, because there the inhabitants were all +<i>Red-shanks</i>."—<i>Sir Walter Raleigh's</i> Speech on +the Scaffold.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Put me into that Shape.</span>—That is, +invested him in Highland attire.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> "Probably +the district around the skirts of Ben +Muicdui."—<i>Chambers'</i> Domestic Annals of Scotland.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Balloch Castle.</span>—Now called +Castle-Grant.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Moray.</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Morayland.</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Sugar-Candian.</span>—<i>i.e.</i>, +Sugar-candy.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">A Piece of Gold of Two-and-Twenty +Shillings.</span>—"This was a considerable present; but +Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to his acquaintance. All +his pleasures were social; and while health and fortune smiled +upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talents to +those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor's +concluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to +Drummond is considered:—but there is one <i>evil that +walks</i>, which keener eyes than John's have often failed to +discover.—I have only to add, in justice to this honest man +(Taylor) that his gratitude outlived the subject of it. He paid +the tribute of a verse to his benefactor's memory:—the +verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing better to +give."—Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's +Ben Jonson's Works, p. xli.</p> +<p>"In the +summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous Ben +Jonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives +for a journey then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be +curiosity regarding a country from which he knew that his family +was derived, his grandfather having been one of the Johnsons of +Annandale. He had many friends too, particularly among the +connections of the Lennox family, whom he might be glad to see at +their own houses. Among those with whom he had amicable +intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in the prime of +life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion of +Hawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is +probable that Drummond and Jonson had met before in London, and +indulged together in the "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar +scenes. Indeed, there is a prevalent belief in Scotland that it +was mainly to see Drummond at Hawthornden that Jonson came so far +from home, and certain it is, from Drummond's report of his +'<i>Conversations</i>,' that he designed 'to write a Fisher or +Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play—and make the stage of it on the +Lomond Lake—he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot +Pilgrimage to Scotland,' which, with a feeling very natural in +one who found so much to admire where so little had been known, +he spoke of entitling '<span class="smcap">A Discovery</span>.' +Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which he called +Edinburgh—</p> + +<p><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">'The Heart of Scotland, +Britain's other eye,'</span><br /></p> +<p>has not +been preserved to us. We can readily see that the work +contemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson's +letters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be +regretted that we have not the Scotland of that day delineated by +so vigorous a pen as that of the author of +<i>Sejanual</i>"—<i>Chambers'</i> Domestic +Annals of Scotland, vol. 1.</p> +<p>Whether +Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, and +prevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would +now be difficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks +in his Dedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c.," he had +been accused by the critics that he "<i>did undergo this project, +either in malice, or mockage of Master Benjamin Jonson</i>." It +is quite certain that Taylor lost no time in getting his +"Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of the author" immediately +on his return to London on the fifteenth of October 1618.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Rouse.</span>—A full glass, a +bumper.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Unfellowed.</span>—<i>i.e.</i>, not +matched.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">To Islington to the Sign of the +Maindenhead.</span>—This then roadside Public-house, we are +informed from recent enquiries, was situate at the corner of +Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King's Cross, from a +statue of George IV.—a most execrable performance taken +down 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named +the Victoria, while Maiden Lane—an ancient way leading from +Battle Bridge to Highgate Hill—is known now as York +Road.</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name= +"Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href= +"#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> +<span class="smcap">Guy of Warwick.</span>—There are +several versions and editions of this work. In the book of the +Stationers' Company, John Trundle—he at the sign of +<span class="smcap">No-Body</span>—on the 15th of January, +1619, entered "a play, called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of +Warwick, written by John Day and Thomas Dekker." See Baker's +Biog. Dram., page 274, vol. 2.—"Well, if he read this with +patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for Master Trundle +yonder, the rest of my mortality."—<i>Ben Jonson's</i> +Every Man in his Humour, act i. sc. 2.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="tr"> +<h4>Corrections Made by Transcriber</h4> +<ul class="noindent"> +<li>Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his."</li> +<li>Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten."</li> +<li>Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes."</li> +<li>Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be."</li> +<li>Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pennyles Pilgrimage, by John Taylor + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE *** + +***** This file should be named 28108-h.htm or 28108-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/8/1/0/28108/ + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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