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diff --git a/27066.txt b/27066.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1eae59f --- /dev/null +++ b/27066.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1285 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making a Lawn + +Author: Luke Joseph Doogue + +Release Date: October 27, 2008 [EBook #27066] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A LAWN *** + + + + +Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +MAKING A LAWN + + + + +_THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS_ + + +It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which _Making a Lawn_ is one, a complete library of +authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities +of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams +will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the +possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more +important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the +titles already issued or planned for early publication are the +following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Tennis Court_; _Making a +Garden Bloom This Year_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Roads and Paths_; +_Making a Poultry House_; _Making a Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making +Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Rock Garden_; _Making +a Water Garden_; _Making a Perennial Border_; _Making a Shrubbery +Group_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with others to be announced +later. + + + + +[Illustration: Lawn is probably the most important element in the +setting for most country houses, yet all too frequently it is expected +to make and take care of itself] + + + + +MAKING +A . LAWN . + +_By_ LUKE J. DOOGUE + +SUPERINTENDENT OF BOSTON PUBLIC GROUNDS DEPARTMENT + +[Decoration] + +NEW YORK +McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY +1912 + + + + +Copyright, 1912, by +McBRIDE, NAST & CO. + + +Published March, 1912 + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + The Small Lawn, Old and New 1 + + The Treatment of Large Areas 8 + + Grass Seed 13 + + Sowing the Seed 24 + + Sodding 28 + + Good Loam and Fertilizers 31 + + Lawn-mower, Roller, and Hose 37 + + Weeds and Other Pests 46 + + + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + + + The Lawn is an Important Element + in the Setting for a Country Place + + _Frontispiece_ + + FACING + PAGE + + A Path of Stepping-stones To Save + Labor in Mowing 4 + + A Successful Covering of a Steeply + Sloping Bank 14 + + Golf Course and Putting-green 20 + + The Result of a Cheap, Ready-made + Mixture of Grass Seed 28 + + One of the Most Difficult Places + To Make a Lawn--Under Large + Shade Trees 34 + + The Necessity for an Occasional + Cleaning of the Lawn-mower 40 + + The Only Sure Way To Eradicate + Weeds 48 + + + + +MAKING A LAWN + + + + +Making a Lawn + +THE SMALL LAWN, OLD AND NEW + + +To the thousands of anxious inquirers, seeking solution of lawn +difficulties, it would be more than delightful to say that a fine lawn +could be had by very hard wishing, but honesty compels one to change the +words "hard wishing" to "hard work," in order to keep strictly within +the truth. A well-made lawn is a testimonial to a hustler, whether the +area is small or large. + +The majority of inquiries about lawn needs come from people having small +places, from a few hundred to a few thousand feet, and the symptoms +described can be divided into two classes: one where they want to make +grass grow where it has never grown before, and the other where the call +is for information to assist in restoring old lawns that have petered +out. Let us take up the last condition first. + +Where grass has grown for some years it is conclusive evidence that +there must be soil beneath, which, perhaps because of neglect, has +ceased to supply the nourishment necessary to maintain the vigor of the +sod growing upon it. As a consequence, weeds gradually creep in and +finally crowd out every blade of grass. + +A condition like this is easily remedied and an improvement brought +about in short order and at very small expense. + +In the first place make a general clearing up of the weeds and do it as +thoroughly as possible. Take them out with a strong knife, cutting deep +into the ground. An asparagus knife is the best for this purpose. + +If the place under treatment were to be spaded up, this weed-cleaning +with the knife would not be necessary, but the object in this instance +is to disturb the soil as little as possible. + +With the weeds out of the way, go over the whole place with a sharp rake +and scratch the earth to the depth of half an inch. In doing this +remember to be not too severe on spots where there is any grass growing, +applying the rake lightly here. After the raking, sow grass seed thickly +and evenly, raking it in, and finish by watering and rolling. Be sure to +roll heavily, water regularly, and good results will surely come. + +This, in brief, is the most practical way to treat the conditions +described. + +If, however, you should find that the ground shows patches of moss and +sorrel, the treatment just suggested will not apply. The land is +probably sour, and should be plowed up, limed, and allowed to lay rough +all winter. Use about a bushel and a half of air-slaked lime to every +thousand square feet. + +When the object is to make a lawn where there never has been one, the +plow or the spade is the most effective weapon. + +It must be kept in mind that grass on a lawn is a great feeder, and no +soil can be made too rich to supply its food requirements. A lawn is a +permanent planting, not something that is to last merely for a season. + +[Illustration: Here is an interesting and ingenious scheme of getting a +path over the lawn without increasing the labor of cutting. The +stepping-stones are set flush with the ground] + +Start this work of preparation for a new lawn in the fall. Spade the +land to the depth of two feet, or, better still, run a plow through it, +if the size of the place warrants. Work in plenty of well-rotted +manure, and during the winter the frost and snow will greatly improve +conditions, killing the weeds, and mellowing the soil as nothing else +can. + +In the spring, harrow and cross-harrow the plot, smooth out the surface, +rake fine, and sow your seed. If, however, the soil is gravelly, there +is no use trying to doctor it up with the expectation of getting good +results. + +As has been said, you need a good loam in which to grow grass, so that +if it is not good you must dig out what is there to the depth of two +feet and replace it with suitable soil. + +There is no short-cut for reaching results with the aid of fertilizers, +for all the chemicals in the land will amount to but little if the soil +conditions are not proper to receive them. + +It is simply a question of supplying the material to get results. + + +A NEW WAY TO RENOVATE A SMALL LAWN + +On a small place where the necessity for radical treatment is apparent, +yet where it is not advisable to upset the premises at that particular +time, results can be reached in a way that will be effectual. + +Take a round stick about an inch in diameter and three feet long, and +sharpen one end of it. At frequent intervals about the grounds drive the +stick to the depth of about two feet. Make many such holes, and into +these ram a mixture of finely powdered manure, hardwood ashes, and bone +meal. Cover the holes with loam, and on the top of each put a piece of +sod and beat it down with the back of a spade. + +In a short time the good effects of this treatment will manifest +themselves, and during the subsequent season the treatment can be +extended to the parts not touched before. It practically means that the +land will be as thoroughly renovated as if it had been plowed and +harrowed. This is no fanciful idea, for the operation justifies results +whenever tried. It is advisable to water liberally and regularly for +some time. + +Of course this applies particularly to very small places, and nothing +will be gained by treating large areas this way. + +Shrubs and trees are greatly benefited by this method of administering +nourishment, and where old plants have grown for a long time and are +seemingly stunted, this feeding will stimulate them to immediate +growth. + + + + +THE TREATMENT OF LARGE AREAS + + +While it is a very simple matter to shape up a small grass plot, +renovating it as to soil and all that is necessary to lay the foundation +of a successful lawn, it becomes another matter when large areas are in +question. Here it requires taste, experience, and familiarity with +prevailing conditions to enable one successfully to get out of the +problem all that there is in it. If we have not had the necessary +experience, it would not be safe to venture upon doing the work without +expert advice. + +Developing a large area means the making of a picture that, year in and +year out, is to be before our eyes, and unless there is a most +harmonious relation of all accessories--trees, contours, vistas, roads, +and so on--there is sure to come a time of wearying monotony, caused by +a realization of the fact that we had not been quite equal, through our +lack of experience, to develop the place as it might have been +developed. + +A piece of ground in the rough must first be shaped up by draining, +removing trees or stones, planning roads and such things, before the +smoothing process can be attempted, and it is in this roughing-out +process where the future landscape picture is either made or destroyed. + +Here is where the professional landscape man can save you many dollars +and much disappointment. I have seen so many sad results in cases of +land development where too much confidence has been the stumbling-block +on the road to success, that I feel justified in harping on the +necessity of asking advice from those who are competent to give it. + + +SAVING TREES + +Great consideration should be given to the matter of saving trees, +whether these are large or small. Small trees can be handled like so +much merchandise, and successfully moved from place to place. It is +preferable to move these in winter. Dig about them so that there will be +a ball of earth large enough to keep intact; then it is necessary merely +to allow this ball to freeze up hard before tilting it onto a stone +drag, shifting it and its fellows to positions that will most benefit +the landscape. + +Large trees can be moved, but at considerable expense, and such work +should be left to the professionals. They have the facilities and from +experience the knowledge and knack of it, and this means much for +success. Some companies will even give a bond to guarantee their work. + +Trees about which the grade is to be raised should be protected, so that +the soil will not come within some distance of the trunk. A rough piling +of stones about the tree, or a circle of drain pipe about it will give +the needed protection. Trees play such a vital part in the adornment of +a piece of land, whether large or small, that none that is needed should +be sacrificed until every effort to save it has failed. + + +DRAINING LAND + +Where the soil is soggy and retains too much moisture, this condition +must be remedied before attempting to make it into a lawn. The remedy +is found by draining, and this is done by digging ditches or laying +tiles under ground at varying distances apart, all tending towards the +lowest part of the land, to which the water must be induced to flow. The +number of drains is to be determined by existing conditions. + +Land that could not be used before will, after a system of drainage has +been installed, be so benefited that most anything can be grown upon it. +Lawns made on such land are always luxuriant and resist the effect of +drought even of long duration, drawing upon the supply of water that +extends deep down below the surface. + + + + +GRASS SEED + + +So much has been written on the subject of lawn-making that about every +one interested in this work is fully competent, theoretically at least, +to carry through the process of land renovation and preparation, whether +it be for a small lawn or an area consisting of acres. The subject along +these lines has been exhaustively treated, but, strange to say, the +equally important subject of grass seed has been rather neglected. While +many amateurs can talk freely on the preparation of the land, they are +not so confident when treating of grass seed. It seems strange that this +is the case when so much depends on the suitability of the grass seed to +the land for the making of a successful lawn. The only reason, as far +as I can see, why people are not versed in this matter is that they have +been frightened by the botanical names of grasses, which seem wholly +unsuitable and too difficult of pronunciation for such commonplace +things. There is, however, just as much individuality in a plant +produced from a grass seed as in the choicest plant in a greenhouse. One +kind of grass seed will produce a low-growing plant while another grows +high; one wants a moist situation, another a dry one; some will +germinate in the shade, others will not, and so on through the list. If +a person knows each kind and its possibilities and requirements, he will +be able to choose the grass best suited for his wants, and by careful +trials arrange the mixtures with better success than the man in the +wholesale house who is obliged to guess at what is best for his +wants. Start out, then, in the primer class and tabulate some of the +best grasses used for lawns, and tag them with both their names, the +botanical and the common ones. + +[Illustration: For sloping banks and terracing, a mixture of Kentucky +Blue, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent, Sheep Fescue and White Clover, +in the proportions given, will probably answer] + +Kentucky Blue Grass--_Poa pratensis_. Fine for lawns; grows slowly but +vigorously almost everywhere but on an acid soil. + +Red Top--_Agrostis vulgaris_. Shows results more quickly than Blue +Grass; will thrive on a sandy soil; fine in combination with Blue Grass. + +English Rye Grass--_Lolium perenne_. Grows quickly and shows almost +immediate results; good to combine with the slow-growing Blue Grass. + +Various-leaved Fescue--_Festuca heterophylla_. Good for shady and moist +places. + +Rhode Island Bent--_Agrostis canina_. Has a creeping habit; good for +putting-greens, sandy soils. + +Creeping Bent--_Agrostis stolonifera_. Creeping habit; good for sandy +places and to bind banks or sloping places. Combined with Rhode Island +Bent for putting-greens. + +Crested Dog's-tail--_Cynosurus cristatus_. Forms a low and compact +sward; good for slopes and shady places. + +Wood Meadow Grass--_Poa nemoralis_. Good for shady places; is very +hardy. + +Red Fescue--_Festuca rubra_. Thrives on poor soils and gravelly banks. + +White Clover--_Trifolium repens_. Good for slopes; not to be recommended +for a lawn. + +Sheep Fescue--_Festuca ovina_. Good for light, dry soils. + +Now, with so much as a reference library, you will have sufficient +knowledge of the kinds of seeds to draw from to make combinations that +will fit any situation. I would further suggest that you go to a +wholesale house and get a sample of each of these seeds and examine +them. Get just a little of each in an envelope. Make a comparative +examination of the seeds, holding a little in the palm of the hand. As +you look at each seed repeat its name a few times and recall its +characteristics, and you will be surprised to find that on the second or +third trial every name will suggest itself the moment your eyes rest on +the seed. With a knowledge of the seeds you can then go to your dealer +and tell him what you want--not necessarily what he thinks you want. You +are then a better judge than he is. + +It is worth while following the subject farther, for the results will +more than repay the trouble. Test the seeds. Make shallow boxes and +fill them with loam, and sow each kind of seed just as you would on a +lawn. Put a label at the head of the box and on it the time of sowing +the seed. Do this with as many as you can. Then watch and make notes of +the time it takes for germination. Note also the character of the +blades. Having finished this you will have a very liberal education in +the subject of grass. + +Should you not care to do as suggested above, you will be dependent on +others to get what you most need. If you should go to a dozen people and +ask them to suggest a combination of seeds, they would all give them +readily to you, but no two proportions would be alike. If you should ask +for a single grass, the majority would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass. For +a single grass there is nothing better suited for all conditions. There +is this objection to it, however: it is not a nervous man's grass. You +cannot plant it to-day and have a lawn next month. If you can afford to +wait, sow Kentucky Blue and your patience will be well rewarded. It +makes a permanent lawn. + +To introduce the ready-made lawn, use a combination of Kentucky Blue, +Red Top, and English Rye. The Blue Grass is slow, but the Rye and Red +Top produce speedier results. The first month will see the newly seeded +space a carpet of green. In time the Rye passes, the Red Top continues +to cover, while the Blue Grass grows sturdier each day until it crowds +everything out by virtue of its own strength. Use 12 lbs. of Kentucky +Blue Grass, 5 lbs. of Red Top and 3 lbs. of English Rye Grass to the +bushel, and sow 3-1/2 to 4 bushels to the acre. This makes a reliable +combination. It is common to hear people asking for grass that will grow +in shady places, but it is always difficult to determine the degree of +shade. A place may be shaded and yet suitable for growing grass, or it +may be so shaded that no grass known could be made to germinate there. +In places where there is no heavy dripping and where the ground is not +absolutely dark, use the following: + +Kentucky Blue Grass, Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue, and +Crested Dog's-tail. Use 35 per cent. of the first two and 15 per cent. +of the last two. + +For conditions that require a quick-growing grass, and something that +will bind and make a holding upon slopes under difficult conditions, the +following is recommended: Kentucky Blue Grass, 30 per cent.; R. I. Bent, +30 per cent.; Creeping Bent, 25 per cent.; Sheep Fescue, 10 per +cent., and White Clover, 5 per cent. This is one of the places where +White Clover is an essential. Under these conditions it fulfils its +mission perfectly. While all the named kinds may not flourish, there +will be enough to make the work successful. + +[Illustration: The turf on a putting-green or tennis court must be dense +and low, as well as tough. Rhode Island Bent and Creeping Bent in +combination are frequently used on a sandy soil to stunt the growth] + +The turf on a putting-green must be dense and low, and tough enough to +stand a lot of rough usage. A combination of Rhode Island Bent and +Creeping Bent is about the best thing for this purpose. To check up, +just refer back to your schedule and see what it says regarding the +qualities of these grasses. + +The soil on a putting-green should be of a sandy nature. This keeps the +grass stunted through lack of much food, and consequently better fits it +for its purpose. + +Never buy grass seed by the bushel. Buy it by weight, or stipulate that +there shall be so many pounds to the bushel. It will cost you a high +price, but it will be far cheaper in the end than to buy something +inexpensive that has more than a third of sweepings and useless bulk. +You certainly lose nothing by buying the very best seed that your dealer +can offer you. + +Do not be ashamed to ask for samples before buying, and also get samples +from a number of places and compare the different seeds. Spread them out +in your hand and see if they are clean and without chaff. A seed with a +large proportion of dust and chaff is not worth buying. It should be +your consideration to see whether you are getting what you pay for. If +you show evidences of knowing the proper seeds you will receive a most +respectful hearing from the tradesman. Do not balk at the price of +re-cleaned seed. It means that you are going to get something for your +money. It is worth much more than the seed sold in bulk that is not +re-cleaned. + + + + +SOWING THE SEED + + +The nearest thing, by way of comparison, to a lawn is a bed of plants +that you set out in your garden every spring. When you think it is +planting time you go to this bed with spade or fork and turn the earth +up from the deep bottom, putting in plenty of well-rotted manure, thus +ministering to the soil according to its needs. Then you set out the +plants, and if weeds grow up you dig them out, after which you water the +spot intelligently. For this labor your reward comes to you in the shape +of an abundance of bloom and foliage. + +Just as truly is a lawn a bed of plants needing an equal amount of +treatment. Grass is nothing but a collection of thousands of little +plants crowded together, which must have nourishment, and from which the +weeds must be taken. Likewise the soil must be given water as it is +needed and the earth must be made mellow for the roots, to a good depth. +It makes no difference how much you pay for your grass seed, how good or +bad it is, or what kind of fertilizers you use, if the bed is not +properly prepared in the first place. Without this fundamental +preparation, grass plants will not grow, or if they do, will not thrive. + +It is quite a trick to sow grass seed evenly so that it will germinate +without giving the plot a spotty effect. It should be spread at the rate +of about three bushels to the acre, and this sowing can be successfully +done only on a quiet day. Even a very light wind is liable to pile up +your seed on your neighbor's lot or on your own in places not wanted. +Keep the seed in a pail while sowing, and, after taking a handful, bend +close to the soil and let the seed feed through the fingers as the arm +swings back and forth in a semicircle. This is very much easier to say +than to do, but a little experience will make one quite proficient. To +help still more, sow the seed two ways, one at right angles to the +other. After sowing, rake lightly and then finish the work by putting a +heavy roller over it. + +While thick sowing has the advantage of discouraging a growth of weeds, +there is a limit that cannot be safely passed. Seed too thickly sown +will mat and damp out, leaving great patches on the lawn. Do not exceed +the quantity suggested above. + +Spring sowing should be done just as soon as the frost is out of the +ground. This early sowing gives the young grass a chance to establish +itself before the severe summer heat comes on. Careful watering is +necessary, with a fine spray, and if regularly done will induce rapid +germination. In watering do not wash out the seed by too heavy a +stream. + + + + +SODDING + + +Like seeding, sodding should be done in the early spring or fall to get +the best results. Oftentimes it is necessary to do the work in midsummer +and this, while not advisable, can be successfully accomplished if the +sods are laid soon after they are cut and then copiously watered every +day until all danger of drying out has passed. + +In butting the sods together, use a wooden mallet, and pound the sod +into close contact with the loam beneath, flattening all joints so that +the growth will be uniform. + +[Illustration: The inevitable result of sowing a cheap, ready-made +mixture of grass seed. It is worth while studying the qualities of the +various elements and making your own mixture] + +On large seeded areas outline these with a border of sods, which gives a +well-defined edge and trim appearance to the work. If you should know +of a place where there is a particularly fine growth of grass, it would +be a paying proposition to buy sufficient sods from it to answer your +needs. Sods, cut and delivered, will cost about eight cents per square +foot. This price may be shaded somewhat if the sods are bought in bulk +and the cutting and carting is done by yourself. Under any circumstances +the work will be expensive. + +On banks and terraces it is preferable to use sods rather than seeding. +The sods can be held in place with wooden pegs driven through them seven +or eight inches into the bank. Over this work scatter some seed and give +a light dressing of loam; then pound the whole to an even surface. + +When the bank is too steep to hold the sods pegged in this way, they +should be piled upon each other horizontally, so that the ends will +form the surface of the bank. This effects the double purpose of +creating a permanent sward and also a depth of ten inches of loam upon +which it can feed. + + + + +GOOD LOAM AND FERTILIZERS + + +Loam is scarce; that is, _good_ loam is scarce. To help make up the +deficiency, every one should form a compost heap, and into it pile +leaves, lawn rakings, pieces of sod, and all such matter, all of which +will be reduced in time by decomposition to the much-desired humus. A +small quantity of this humus, mixed with fairly good loam, will make +good loam of it all, and suitable for sustaining plant life. + +In the fall, when the leaves are falling from the trees, it is a good +idea to gather up from the gutters the accumulated leaves and put them +in the compost heap. There may be a little expense and trouble to it, +but there is no question as to the fact that you will be fully repaid +when you find the necessity for some real loam. + +Near cities loam of very inferior quality will cost at least $2 per +cubic yard, and if one has a quantity of leaf-mould, made as suggested, +and will mix it with this loam, a very desirable quality can be +produced. The leaf-mould is the life of the soil and absolutely +essential to satisfactory results. + + +SPRING TOP-DRESSING + +A lawn that has been properly made will not suffer if it is not given a +yearly dressing, for it will have sufficient food supply in the ground +to keep it going for years. + +Strange as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being given +a heavy application of manure year after year. When a top-dressing is +necessary on soil that is good, Canada hardwood ashes and bone meal will +supply all the nourishment that is necessary. Spread the ashes thickly +on the lawn until they show white on the grass, and do the work +preferably before a rain, so that the nourishment may be washed into the +soil. + +The Canada hardwood ashes, as usually found in the market, contain from +one to five per cent. of potash, but to get the results you are looking +for, the ashes should contain from seven to nine per cent. of potash. In +purchasing this fertilizer in large quantities demand a guaranteed +analysis, otherwise you are liable to get something little better than +what you take out of your stove, and wholly useless for lawn purposes. +There are good ashes on the market and they can be had if one goes after +them vigorously enough and gives some indication of a knowledge of what +good ashes are. + +When it is not possible to get what you are looking for, I would +recommend mixing muriate of potash with finely sifted loam, and +spreading it broadcast over the grass. This treatment is always +efficacious, as you are absolutely sure of getting what is necessary for +the land. + + +MANURE TOP-DRESSING + +Many prefer to use a top-dressing of manure, regardless of conditions. +It is sure to bring more or less weeds. If you decide to use it, +however, get the thoroughly decomposed kind, as this means a minimum of +weeds. I do not want to create the impression that I am trying to +belittle the fertilizing value of manure. I believe in having a liberal +quantity of it incorporated with the soil when the lawn is made, and +I also believe that on such a soil Canada ashes and bone meal are very +much more suitable to keep it up to pitch than is a top-dressing of +manure. + +[Illustration: One of the most difficult places in which to make a lawn +is under large shade trees. A combination of Kentucky Blue, Wood Meadow, +Various-leaved Fescue and Crested Dog's-tail is usually successful] + +When manure is used for a top-dressing, do not get it on too thick, and +do not leave it too long on the grass in the spring. Nothing is to be +gained by either of these mistakes and much killing out is apt to +result. + +There was a time, some years ago, when it was possible to buy sheep +manure that was worth something, but at the present time it is sold in +powder form, and invites a strong suspicion of adulteration and of +containing very much more than what is being paid for. If it is possible +for you to get good sheep manure, use that by all means. It is +efficient, cleanly, and produces very few weeds. It is best used at the +rate of about a ton to the acre. + +Nitrate of soda is a very vigorous stimulant and produces quick results. +It is economical, requiring but small quantities to cover large areas. +Spread broadcast, about 175 lbs. to the acre; or, dissolved, 3 lbs. to +every 100 gals. of water. The dry application should be made always +before a rainstorm, otherwise much burning is apt to result to the +grass. For an occasional application it is all right to use this, but +for year-in-and-year-out fertilizer, it should be alternated with other +things. + + + + +LAWN-MOWER, ROLLER, AND HOSE + + +After you have your ground made, your seed sown and germinated, your +trouble is not all over, for it is a critical period through which to +carry the tender grass to a hardy condition. + +Young grass should not be cut before it is three inches high, and this +means that a scythe should be used in preference to a lawn-mower, as it +is difficult to get the blades high enough to allow this length. In +cutting for the first time, try to do it on a cloudy day, as this will +prevent any possibility of scorching or burning. After a few weeks the +grass will have so toughened that it will be benefited by frequent +cuttings--even twice a week. + +The roller should be used after every cutting, and although it may +seemingly be working injury by crushing down the tender grass, it is in +reality making sure a solid and compact sod. In the middle of the summer +when the weather is very hot, be careful not to crop too close, as the +roots are liable to be killed out by the sun. + +When cutting your grass you will find it a great saving to have some +sort of a grass-catcher on your lawn-mower. One can be made easily, but +very handy ones are sold at a small price. They prevent the wear and +tear to a lawn that results from the hard raking necessary when not +used. + +There is a good grass-catcher that fits into the back of all machines; +it is very effective and costs about fifty cents. It so effectively +catches all the grass that comes from the machine that little raking is +afterwards necessary. If you prefer the rake it is best to use a wooden +one, as iron teeth do great damage to a heavy sod. + +Where the grass is cut frequently the clippings may safely be left on +the ground, but heavy grass should be always gathered up. + + +THE LAWN-MOWER + +There are hundreds of makes of lawn-mowers on the market, but of these +very few will stand the test of a season's hard usage. These few will be +found to be the standard makes of good design, and costing a seemingly +high price. When you can get a lawn-mower with a pound of tea you may be +sure that it is time to be suspicious, regardless of the pretty paint +and ornamentation that makes it a symphony of colors. A good mower +means that your lawn will look well after being cut with it, and it also +means that the first seemingly high cost will be all that you will be +called upon to expend in years to come. Such a mower is practically +indestructible. + +Once or twice during the season, give it an overhauling. Grass and grit +will creep in, and unless it is removed the efficiency of the machine +will be greatly reduced. + +It sounds like automobile parlance to say "Use good oil," but this +really applies equally as strongly to a lawn-mower. Cheap oil is +expensive in the long run, as it thickens up and clogs the bearings, and +makes it impossible for the mower to do its best work. + +[Illustration: It is surprising what a lot of grass and dirt finds its +way into the lawn-mower. Take it apart once a season to clean and oil] + +This may seem like straining a point to get down to such trivial +details, but it is just these little things that go to make up the +getting and keeping of a lawn. + + +THE ROLLER + +Next to having good seed to sow, on properly prepared ground, the great +essential in lawn-making is a proper kind of roller to use as occasion +requires. Few people realize just how important a part a roller plays in +the upkeep of any grass area, but it is no exaggeration to say that +without one, successful results will be difficult if not impossible of +achievement. Use a roller--a heavy roller--on your lawn early in the +spring to repair the damage that the freezing and thawing has caused in +the winter. + +The early rolling levels the surface, packs the earth about the grass +roots and makes it possible for them to draw the moisture from deep down +in the ground. A roller is to be used often, not once each season. Its +consistent use means that you will have fewer weeds, thicker and better +colored grass; the disfiguring moles will find the ground too difficult +to burrow through, moisture will be retained longer, and a noticeably +better condition will be noted throughout the whole lawn. + +The old-time stone roller was an instrument of torture, and almost +wholly unsuited for lawn work as suggested. There are now on the market +dozens of ball-bearing rollers that are very easily handled. The +adjustable kind, in which there are compartments to hold either sand or +water to vary the weight, is the kind that should be purchased. With it +you have a roller light enough to use for seeding, or heavy enough for +road work, and the prices are not prohibitive. + + +THE HOSE + +The hose is a subject to which very little attention is given. +Paradoxical as it may seem, all rubber hose is not rubber hose, and +because of this many lawns suffer from want of water, because the +supposedly rubber hose has proved, when most needed, to be a combination +of paper and scrap. A first-quality hose will cost from twenty to thirty +cents a foot--a frightful price when comparison is made to the bargain +price of four cents a foot. The expensive kind will last for years, and +even after it begins to show signs of wear it can be used many years +longer by proper repairing. The cheap hose bursts once, and its +usefulness is at an end, as the first burst is only a preliminary of +total dissolution. + +When a good hose bursts it is best repaired by cutting entirely through +it and removing the damaged part, and then joining the ends with a +little brass sleeve that is easily inserted into each of the severed +ends and which has reversed prongs to prevent its slipping out. This is +one of the best ready-made menders on the market, and it prolongs the +life of a hose for years. + +Keep your hose on a reel. Empty it of water before winding up, and never +allow it to lie baking in the sun. This latter is a very common fault +and is the cause of much good hose being spoiled. + +Another seemingly trivial yet important thing is to caution against so +fastening the hose to the tap that it pulls away from it at +right-angles. + +For ordinary purposes the half-inch size of hose is the best. It costs +less in the first place, is more easily handled, and the wear and tear +is much less than on the larger sizes. + +You never see a gardener using any spraying contrivance on the end of a +hose. In his thumb and forefinger, which he skillfully moves over the +flowing stream, he has a combination of sprayers that can produce the +heaviest stream or the finest mist at will. This is to be recommended, +but few will care to follow the course of training necessary to acquire +the efficiency of the gardener. + + + + +WEEDS AND OTHER PESTS + + +Even if you paid a thousand dollars a bushel for your grass seed, and +then spent as much more on the preparation of your land, you could not, +I am sorry to say, escape having weeds. + +The thing to do when you have them is to get rid of them, and this is +accomplished only by getting right after them with a persistence +proportionate to the abundance of the weeds. The knife is the only real +weapon for this. After digging out your weeds, sow in grass seed with +the idea of making the grass grow so thick that there will be no place +for the weeds to creep in. Dandelions and plantains are simple matters +that can be handled easily, but where Crab Grass shows up, there is +certainly work ahead to get the best of it. It is a destroyer of the +first rank, a veritable pest. It is an annual that seeds itself each +year and kills out under the first frost, leaving great bald spaces in +the lawn to show where it has been. Even after it has been killed by the +frost its baneful influence is not ended, for it has spread broadcast +its seeds for the next year's crop. + +When you find it, dig it out. It means work and lots of it, but it is +the only way to conquer it. Set the blades of the mower low, and after +dragging the grass up with a rake, run the machine over it; and this +should be done early in the year, before July. There is no weed to equal +this as a nuisance. + +On newly-made lawns the weeds are easily removed, and they should be +carefully watched so as not to allow them to get too far ahead. +Chickweed is almost as bad as Crab Grass, and when you find the +combination, Crab Grass and Chickweed, the simplest solution is to spade +or plow the place up in the fall and leave it exposed for the winter. + +For the broad-leaved varieties of weeds there is a preparation of what +is called sand on the market that I have tried with very good success. I +sprinkle it on the weeds and within an hour afterwards they have +shriveled and turned black. + +While it doubtless is very efficient in destroying the top growth, I am +unable to say that it is at all injurious to the roots, and may, +perhaps, even stimulate them to renewed growth the following season. +However, my experience with it was a happy one, for just as soon as the +weeds died down I sowed in grass seed, which quickly germinated. + +[Illustration: There is only one sure way of eradicating weeds, and that +is by cutting them out with a knife as soon as they appear. Delay in the +attack will give them time to bring up heavy reinforcements] + + +WORMS, ANTS, AND MOLES + +Very often earthworms become very disfiguring on a grass plot. Where +there are many present it is an indication that the earth is in poor +condition, compacted, and needing humus. An application of strong +lime-water will drive many to the surface, where they can be swept up; +or a heavy rolling with a 1,500-lb. roller will do much to discourage +them. + +It is surprising how much damage a colony of ants can do on a lawn. They +should be looked after the first time they are noticed, for they work +rapidly, and the longer neglected the more difficult it is to +eradicate them. + +There are many remedies recommended, but the best one lies in the use of +bisulphide of carbon. This is very effective, but it has come into such +common use that a word of caution should be given as to its handling. +It is very volatile and, when near flame, powerfully explosive, and +should be handled with great care. Pour it into the runways of the ants, +and then throw over these a mat. The fumes will speedily kill all the +ants. A better way, however, is to drive a stick into the ground in +several places where the colony is located, and in these holes pour the +carbon, afterwards plugging the holes up tightly. + +Moles are frequently found on lawns, but they are not serious because +they can be easily controlled by heavily rolling or by traps made to +catch them. Where there is a suspicion of the presence of moles, no time +should be lost in getting after them. They sometimes work for a long +time before their destructive borings are evident, and then it will take +much labor to get ahead of them. Keep the heavy roller going as an +excellent preventive. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A LAWN *** + +***** This file should be named 27066.txt or 27066.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/7/0/6/27066/ + +Produced by S. 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