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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Lawn
+
+Author: Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+Release Date: October 27, 2008 [EBook #27066]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A LAWN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A LAWN
+
+
+
+
+_THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS_
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Lawn_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Tennis Court_; _Making a
+Garden Bloom This Year_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Roads and Paths_;
+_Making a Poultry House_; _Making a Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Rock Garden_; _Making
+a Water Garden_; _Making a Perennial Border_; _Making a Shrubbery
+Group_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with others to be announced
+later.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Lawn is probably the most important element in the
+setting for most country houses, yet all too frequently it is expected
+to make and take care of itself]
+
+
+
+
+MAKING
+A · LAWN ·
+
+_By_ LUKE J. DOOGUE
+
+SUPERINTENDENT OF BOSTON PUBLIC GROUNDS DEPARTMENT
+
+[Decoration]
+
+NEW YORK
+McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+1912
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1912, by
+McBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+
+Published March, 1912
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                          PAGE
+
+  The Small Lawn, Old and New                1
+
+  The Treatment of Large Areas               8
+
+  Grass Seed                                13
+
+  Sowing the Seed                           24
+
+  Sodding                                   28
+
+  Good Loam and Fertilizers                 31
+
+  Lawn-mower, Roller, and Hose              37
+
+  Weeds and Other Pests                     46
+
+
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  The Lawn is an Important Element
+    in the Setting for a Country Place
+
+                                 _Frontispiece_
+
+                                        FACING
+                                          PAGE
+
+  A Path of Stepping-stones To Save
+    Labor in Mowing                          4
+
+  A Successful Covering of a Steeply
+    Sloping Bank                            14
+
+  Golf Course and Putting-green             20
+
+  The Result of a Cheap, Ready-made
+    Mixture of Grass Seed                   28
+
+  One of the Most Difficult Places
+    To Make a Lawn--Under Large
+    Shade Trees                             34
+
+  The Necessity for an Occasional
+    Cleaning of the Lawn-mower              40
+
+  The Only Sure Way To Eradicate
+    Weeds                                   48
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A LAWN
+
+
+
+
+Making a Lawn
+
+THE SMALL LAWN, OLD AND NEW
+
+
+To the thousands of anxious inquirers, seeking solution of lawn
+difficulties, it would be more than delightful to say that a fine lawn
+could be had by very hard wishing, but honesty compels one to change the
+words "hard wishing" to "hard work," in order to keep strictly within
+the truth. A well-made lawn is a testimonial to a hustler, whether the
+area is small or large.
+
+The majority of inquiries about lawn needs come from people having small
+places, from a few hundred to a few thousand feet, and the symptoms
+described can be divided into two classes: one where they want to make
+grass grow where it has never grown before, and the other where the call
+is for information to assist in restoring old lawns that have petered
+out. Let us take up the last condition first.
+
+Where grass has grown for some years it is conclusive evidence that
+there must be soil beneath, which, perhaps because of neglect, has
+ceased to supply the nourishment necessary to maintain the vigor of the
+sod growing upon it. As a consequence, weeds gradually creep in and
+finally crowd out every blade of grass.
+
+A condition like this is easily remedied and an improvement brought
+about in short order and at very small expense.
+
+In the first place make a general clearing up of the weeds and do it as
+thoroughly as possible. Take them out with a strong knife, cutting deep
+into the ground. An asparagus knife is the best for this purpose.
+
+If the place under treatment were to be spaded up, this weed-cleaning
+with the knife would not be necessary, but the object in this instance
+is to disturb the soil as little as possible.
+
+With the weeds out of the way, go over the whole place with a sharp rake
+and scratch the earth to the depth of half an inch. In doing this
+remember to be not too severe on spots where there is any grass growing,
+applying the rake lightly here. After the raking, sow grass seed thickly
+and evenly, raking it in, and finish by watering and rolling. Be sure to
+roll heavily, water regularly, and good results will surely come.
+
+This, in brief, is the most practical way to treat the conditions
+described.
+
+If, however, you should find that the ground shows patches of moss and
+sorrel, the treatment just suggested will not apply. The land is
+probably sour, and should be plowed up, limed, and allowed to lay rough
+all winter. Use about a bushel and a half of air-slaked lime to every
+thousand square feet.
+
+When the object is to make a lawn where there never has been one, the
+plow or the spade is the most effective weapon.
+
+It must be kept in mind that grass on a lawn is a great feeder, and no
+soil can be made too rich to supply its food requirements. A lawn is a
+permanent planting, not something that is to last merely for a season.
+
+[Illustration: Here is an interesting and ingenious scheme of getting a
+path over the lawn without increasing the labor of cutting. The
+stepping-stones are set flush with the ground]
+
+Start this work of preparation for a new lawn in the fall. Spade the
+land to the depth of two feet, or, better still, run a plow through it,
+if the size of the place warrants. Work in plenty of well-rotted
+manure, and during the winter the frost and snow will greatly improve
+conditions, killing the weeds, and mellowing the soil as nothing else
+can.
+
+In the spring, harrow and cross-harrow the plot, smooth out the surface,
+rake fine, and sow your seed. If, however, the soil is gravelly, there
+is no use trying to doctor it up with the expectation of getting good
+results.
+
+As has been said, you need a good loam in which to grow grass, so that
+if it is not good you must dig out what is there to the depth of two
+feet and replace it with suitable soil.
+
+There is no short-cut for reaching results with the aid of fertilizers,
+for all the chemicals in the land will amount to but little if the soil
+conditions are not proper to receive them.
+
+It is simply a question of supplying the material to get results.
+
+
+A NEW WAY TO RENOVATE A SMALL LAWN
+
+On a small place where the necessity for radical treatment is apparent,
+yet where it is not advisable to upset the premises at that particular
+time, results can be reached in a way that will be effectual.
+
+Take a round stick about an inch in diameter and three feet long, and
+sharpen one end of it. At frequent intervals about the grounds drive the
+stick to the depth of about two feet. Make many such holes, and into
+these ram a mixture of finely powdered manure, hardwood ashes, and bone
+meal. Cover the holes with loam, and on the top of each put a piece of
+sod and beat it down with the back of a spade.
+
+In a short time the good effects of this treatment will manifest
+themselves, and during the subsequent season the treatment can be
+extended to the parts not touched before. It practically means that the
+land will be as thoroughly renovated as if it had been plowed and
+harrowed. This is no fanciful idea, for the operation justifies results
+whenever tried. It is advisable to water liberally and regularly for
+some time.
+
+Of course this applies particularly to very small places, and nothing
+will be gained by treating large areas this way.
+
+Shrubs and trees are greatly benefited by this method of administering
+nourishment, and where old plants have grown for a long time and are
+seemingly stunted, this feeding will stimulate them to immediate
+growth.
+
+
+
+
+THE TREATMENT OF LARGE AREAS
+
+
+While it is a very simple matter to shape up a small grass plot,
+renovating it as to soil and all that is necessary to lay the foundation
+of a successful lawn, it becomes another matter when large areas are in
+question. Here it requires taste, experience, and familiarity with
+prevailing conditions to enable one successfully to get out of the
+problem all that there is in it. If we have not had the necessary
+experience, it would not be safe to venture upon doing the work without
+expert advice.
+
+Developing a large area means the making of a picture that, year in and
+year out, is to be before our eyes, and unless there is a most
+harmonious relation of all accessories--trees, contours, vistas, roads,
+and so on--there is sure to come a time of wearying monotony, caused by
+a realization of the fact that we had not been quite equal, through our
+lack of experience, to develop the place as it might have been
+developed.
+
+A piece of ground in the rough must first be shaped up by draining,
+removing trees or stones, planning roads and such things, before the
+smoothing process can be attempted, and it is in this roughing-out
+process where the future landscape picture is either made or destroyed.
+
+Here is where the professional landscape man can save you many dollars
+and much disappointment. I have seen so many sad results in cases of
+land development where too much confidence has been the stumbling-block
+on the road to success, that I feel justified in harping on the
+necessity of asking advice from those who are competent to give it.
+
+
+SAVING TREES
+
+Great consideration should be given to the matter of saving trees,
+whether these are large or small. Small trees can be handled like so
+much merchandise, and successfully moved from place to place. It is
+preferable to move these in winter. Dig about them so that there will be
+a ball of earth large enough to keep intact; then it is necessary merely
+to allow this ball to freeze up hard before tilting it onto a stone
+drag, shifting it and its fellows to positions that will most benefit
+the landscape.
+
+Large trees can be moved, but at considerable expense, and such work
+should be left to the professionals. They have the facilities and from
+experience the knowledge and knack of it, and this means much for
+success. Some companies will even give a bond to guarantee their work.
+
+Trees about which the grade is to be raised should be protected, so that
+the soil will not come within some distance of the trunk. A rough piling
+of stones about the tree, or a circle of drain pipe about it will give
+the needed protection. Trees play such a vital part in the adornment of
+a piece of land, whether large or small, that none that is needed should
+be sacrificed until every effort to save it has failed.
+
+
+DRAINING LAND
+
+Where the soil is soggy and retains too much moisture, this condition
+must be remedied before attempting to make it into a lawn. The remedy
+is found by draining, and this is done by digging ditches or laying
+tiles under ground at varying distances apart, all tending towards the
+lowest part of the land, to which the water must be induced to flow. The
+number of drains is to be determined by existing conditions.
+
+Land that could not be used before will, after a system of drainage has
+been installed, be so benefited that most anything can be grown upon it.
+Lawns made on such land are always luxuriant and resist the effect of
+drought even of long duration, drawing upon the supply of water that
+extends deep down below the surface.
+
+
+
+
+GRASS SEED
+
+
+So much has been written on the subject of lawn-making that about every
+one interested in this work is fully competent, theoretically at least,
+to carry through the process of land renovation and preparation, whether
+it be for a small lawn or an area consisting of acres. The subject along
+these lines has been exhaustively treated, but, strange to say, the
+equally important subject of grass seed has been rather neglected. While
+many amateurs can talk freely on the preparation of the land, they are
+not so confident when treating of grass seed. It seems strange that this
+is the case when so much depends on the suitability of the grass seed to
+the land for the making of a successful lawn. The only reason, as far
+as I can see, why people are not versed in this matter is that they have
+been frightened by the botanical names of grasses, which seem wholly
+unsuitable and too difficult of pronunciation for such commonplace
+things. There is, however, just as much individuality in a plant
+produced from a grass seed as in the choicest plant in a greenhouse. One
+kind of grass seed will produce a low-growing plant while another grows
+high; one wants a moist situation, another a dry one; some will
+germinate in the shade, others will not, and so on through the list. If
+a person knows each kind and its possibilities and requirements, he will
+be able to choose the grass best suited for his wants, and by careful
+trials arrange the mixtures with better success than the man in the
+wholesale house who is obliged to guess at what is best for his
+wants. Start out, then, in the primer class and tabulate some of the
+best grasses used for lawns, and tag them with both their names, the
+botanical and the common ones.
+
+[Illustration: For sloping banks and terracing, a mixture of Kentucky
+Blue, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent, Sheep Fescue and White Clover,
+in the proportions given, will probably answer]
+
+Kentucky Blue Grass--_Poa pratensis_. Fine for lawns; grows slowly but
+vigorously almost everywhere but on an acid soil.
+
+Red Top--_Agrostis vulgaris_. Shows results more quickly than Blue
+Grass; will thrive on a sandy soil; fine in combination with Blue Grass.
+
+English Rye Grass--_Lolium perenne_. Grows quickly and shows almost
+immediate results; good to combine with the slow-growing Blue Grass.
+
+Various-leaved Fescue--_Festuca heterophylla_. Good for shady and moist
+places.
+
+Rhode Island Bent--_Agrostis canina_. Has a creeping habit; good for
+putting-greens, sandy soils.
+
+Creeping Bent--_Agrostis stolonifera_. Creeping habit; good for sandy
+places and to bind banks or sloping places. Combined with Rhode Island
+Bent for putting-greens.
+
+Crested Dog's-tail--_Cynosurus cristatus_. Forms a low and compact
+sward; good for slopes and shady places.
+
+Wood Meadow Grass--_Poa nemoralis_. Good for shady places; is very
+hardy.
+
+Red Fescue--_Festuca rubra_. Thrives on poor soils and gravelly banks.
+
+White Clover--_Trifolium repens_. Good for slopes; not to be recommended
+for a lawn.
+
+Sheep Fescue--_Festuca ovina_. Good for light, dry soils.
+
+Now, with so much as a reference library, you will have sufficient
+knowledge of the kinds of seeds to draw from to make combinations that
+will fit any situation. I would further suggest that you go to a
+wholesale house and get a sample of each of these seeds and examine
+them. Get just a little of each in an envelope. Make a comparative
+examination of the seeds, holding a little in the palm of the hand. As
+you look at each seed repeat its name a few times and recall its
+characteristics, and you will be surprised to find that on the second or
+third trial every name will suggest itself the moment your eyes rest on
+the seed. With a knowledge of the seeds you can then go to your dealer
+and tell him what you want--not necessarily what he thinks you want. You
+are then a better judge than he is.
+
+It is worth while following the subject farther, for the results will
+more than repay the trouble. Test the seeds. Make shallow boxes and
+fill them with loam, and sow each kind of seed just as you would on a
+lawn. Put a label at the head of the box and on it the time of sowing
+the seed. Do this with as many as you can. Then watch and make notes of
+the time it takes for germination. Note also the character of the
+blades. Having finished this you will have a very liberal education in
+the subject of grass.
+
+Should you not care to do as suggested above, you will be dependent on
+others to get what you most need. If you should go to a dozen people and
+ask them to suggest a combination of seeds, they would all give them
+readily to you, but no two proportions would be alike. If you should ask
+for a single grass, the majority would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass. For
+a single grass there is nothing better suited for all conditions. There
+is this objection to it, however: it is not a nervous man's grass. You
+cannot plant it to-day and have a lawn next month. If you can afford to
+wait, sow Kentucky Blue and your patience will be well rewarded. It
+makes a permanent lawn.
+
+To introduce the ready-made lawn, use a combination of Kentucky Blue,
+Red Top, and English Rye. The Blue Grass is slow, but the Rye and Red
+Top produce speedier results. The first month will see the newly seeded
+space a carpet of green. In time the Rye passes, the Red Top continues
+to cover, while the Blue Grass grows sturdier each day until it crowds
+everything out by virtue of its own strength. Use 12 lbs. of Kentucky
+Blue Grass, 5 lbs. of Red Top and 3 lbs. of English Rye Grass to the
+bushel, and sow 3½ to 4 bushels to the acre. This makes a reliable
+combination. It is common to hear people asking for grass that will grow
+in shady places, but it is always difficult to determine the degree of
+shade. A place may be shaded and yet suitable for growing grass, or it
+may be so shaded that no grass known could be made to germinate there.
+In places where there is no heavy dripping and where the ground is not
+absolutely dark, use the following:
+
+Kentucky Blue Grass, Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue, and
+Crested Dog's-tail. Use 35 per cent. of the first two and 15 per cent.
+of the last two.
+
+For conditions that require a quick-growing grass, and something that
+will bind and make a holding upon slopes under difficult conditions, the
+following is recommended: Kentucky Blue Grass, 30 per cent.; R. I. Bent,
+30 per cent.; Creeping Bent, 25 per cent.; Sheep Fescue, 10 per
+cent., and White Clover, 5 per cent. This is one of the places where
+White Clover is an essential. Under these conditions it fulfils its
+mission perfectly. While all the named kinds may not flourish, there
+will be enough to make the work successful.
+
+[Illustration: The turf on a putting-green or tennis court must be dense
+and low, as well as tough. Rhode Island Bent and Creeping Bent in
+combination are frequently used on a sandy soil to stunt the growth]
+
+The turf on a putting-green must be dense and low, and tough enough to
+stand a lot of rough usage. A combination of Rhode Island Bent and
+Creeping Bent is about the best thing for this purpose. To check up,
+just refer back to your schedule and see what it says regarding the
+qualities of these grasses.
+
+The soil on a putting-green should be of a sandy nature. This keeps the
+grass stunted through lack of much food, and consequently better fits it
+for its purpose.
+
+Never buy grass seed by the bushel. Buy it by weight, or stipulate that
+there shall be so many pounds to the bushel. It will cost you a high
+price, but it will be far cheaper in the end than to buy something
+inexpensive that has more than a third of sweepings and useless bulk.
+You certainly lose nothing by buying the very best seed that your dealer
+can offer you.
+
+Do not be ashamed to ask for samples before buying, and also get samples
+from a number of places and compare the different seeds. Spread them out
+in your hand and see if they are clean and without chaff. A seed with a
+large proportion of dust and chaff is not worth buying. It should be
+your consideration to see whether you are getting what you pay for. If
+you show evidences of knowing the proper seeds you will receive a most
+respectful hearing from the tradesman. Do not balk at the price of
+re-cleaned seed. It means that you are going to get something for your
+money. It is worth much more than the seed sold in bulk that is not
+re-cleaned.
+
+
+
+
+SOWING THE SEED
+
+
+The nearest thing, by way of comparison, to a lawn is a bed of plants
+that you set out in your garden every spring. When you think it is
+planting time you go to this bed with spade or fork and turn the earth
+up from the deep bottom, putting in plenty of well-rotted manure, thus
+ministering to the soil according to its needs. Then you set out the
+plants, and if weeds grow up you dig them out, after which you water the
+spot intelligently. For this labor your reward comes to you in the shape
+of an abundance of bloom and foliage.
+
+Just as truly is a lawn a bed of plants needing an equal amount of
+treatment. Grass is nothing but a collection of thousands of little
+plants crowded together, which must have nourishment, and from which the
+weeds must be taken. Likewise the soil must be given water as it is
+needed and the earth must be made mellow for the roots, to a good depth.
+It makes no difference how much you pay for your grass seed, how good or
+bad it is, or what kind of fertilizers you use, if the bed is not
+properly prepared in the first place. Without this fundamental
+preparation, grass plants will not grow, or if they do, will not thrive.
+
+It is quite a trick to sow grass seed evenly so that it will germinate
+without giving the plot a spotty effect. It should be spread at the rate
+of about three bushels to the acre, and this sowing can be successfully
+done only on a quiet day. Even a very light wind is liable to pile up
+your seed on your neighbor's lot or on your own in places not wanted.
+Keep the seed in a pail while sowing, and, after taking a handful, bend
+close to the soil and let the seed feed through the fingers as the arm
+swings back and forth in a semicircle. This is very much easier to say
+than to do, but a little experience will make one quite proficient. To
+help still more, sow the seed two ways, one at right angles to the
+other. After sowing, rake lightly and then finish the work by putting a
+heavy roller over it.
+
+While thick sowing has the advantage of discouraging a growth of weeds,
+there is a limit that cannot be safely passed. Seed too thickly sown
+will mat and damp out, leaving great patches on the lawn. Do not exceed
+the quantity suggested above.
+
+Spring sowing should be done just as soon as the frost is out of the
+ground. This early sowing gives the young grass a chance to establish
+itself before the severe summer heat comes on. Careful watering is
+necessary, with a fine spray, and if regularly done will induce rapid
+germination. In watering do not wash out the seed by too heavy a
+stream.
+
+
+
+
+SODDING
+
+
+Like seeding, sodding should be done in the early spring or fall to get
+the best results. Oftentimes it is necessary to do the work in midsummer
+and this, while not advisable, can be successfully accomplished if the
+sods are laid soon after they are cut and then copiously watered every
+day until all danger of drying out has passed.
+
+In butting the sods together, use a wooden mallet, and pound the sod
+into close contact with the loam beneath, flattening all joints so that
+the growth will be uniform.
+
+[Illustration: The inevitable result of sowing a cheap, ready-made
+mixture of grass seed. It is worth while studying the qualities of the
+various elements and making your own mixture]
+
+On large seeded areas outline these with a border of sods, which gives a
+well-defined edge and trim appearance to the work. If you should know
+of a place where there is a particularly fine growth of grass, it would
+be a paying proposition to buy sufficient sods from it to answer your
+needs. Sods, cut and delivered, will cost about eight cents per square
+foot. This price may be shaded somewhat if the sods are bought in bulk
+and the cutting and carting is done by yourself. Under any circumstances
+the work will be expensive.
+
+On banks and terraces it is preferable to use sods rather than seeding.
+The sods can be held in place with wooden pegs driven through them seven
+or eight inches into the bank. Over this work scatter some seed and give
+a light dressing of loam; then pound the whole to an even surface.
+
+When the bank is too steep to hold the sods pegged in this way, they
+should be piled upon each other horizontally, so that the ends will
+form the surface of the bank. This effects the double purpose of
+creating a permanent sward and also a depth of ten inches of loam upon
+which it can feed.
+
+
+
+
+GOOD LOAM AND FERTILIZERS
+
+
+Loam is scarce; that is, _good_ loam is scarce. To help make up the
+deficiency, every one should form a compost heap, and into it pile
+leaves, lawn rakings, pieces of sod, and all such matter, all of which
+will be reduced in time by decomposition to the much-desired humus. A
+small quantity of this humus, mixed with fairly good loam, will make
+good loam of it all, and suitable for sustaining plant life.
+
+In the fall, when the leaves are falling from the trees, it is a good
+idea to gather up from the gutters the accumulated leaves and put them
+in the compost heap. There may be a little expense and trouble to it,
+but there is no question as to the fact that you will be fully repaid
+when you find the necessity for some real loam.
+
+Near cities loam of very inferior quality will cost at least $2 per
+cubic yard, and if one has a quantity of leaf-mould, made as suggested,
+and will mix it with this loam, a very desirable quality can be
+produced. The leaf-mould is the life of the soil and absolutely
+essential to satisfactory results.
+
+
+SPRING TOP-DRESSING
+
+A lawn that has been properly made will not suffer if it is not given a
+yearly dressing, for it will have sufficient food supply in the ground
+to keep it going for years.
+
+Strange as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being given
+a heavy application of manure year after year. When a top-dressing is
+necessary on soil that is good, Canada hardwood ashes and bone meal will
+supply all the nourishment that is necessary. Spread the ashes thickly
+on the lawn until they show white on the grass, and do the work
+preferably before a rain, so that the nourishment may be washed into the
+soil.
+
+The Canada hardwood ashes, as usually found in the market, contain from
+one to five per cent. of potash, but to get the results you are looking
+for, the ashes should contain from seven to nine per cent. of potash. In
+purchasing this fertilizer in large quantities demand a guaranteed
+analysis, otherwise you are liable to get something little better than
+what you take out of your stove, and wholly useless for lawn purposes.
+There are good ashes on the market and they can be had if one goes after
+them vigorously enough and gives some indication of a knowledge of what
+good ashes are.
+
+When it is not possible to get what you are looking for, I would
+recommend mixing muriate of potash with finely sifted loam, and
+spreading it broadcast over the grass. This treatment is always
+efficacious, as you are absolutely sure of getting what is necessary for
+the land.
+
+
+MANURE TOP-DRESSING
+
+Many prefer to use a top-dressing of manure, regardless of conditions.
+It is sure to bring more or less weeds. If you decide to use it,
+however, get the thoroughly decomposed kind, as this means a minimum of
+weeds. I do not want to create the impression that I am trying to
+belittle the fertilizing value of manure. I believe in having a liberal
+quantity of it incorporated with the soil when the lawn is made, and
+I also believe that on such a soil Canada ashes and bone meal are very
+much more suitable to keep it up to pitch than is a top-dressing of
+manure.
+
+[Illustration: One of the most difficult places in which to make a lawn
+is under large shade trees. A combination of Kentucky Blue, Wood Meadow,
+Various-leaved Fescue and Crested Dog's-tail is usually successful]
+
+When manure is used for a top-dressing, do not get it on too thick, and
+do not leave it too long on the grass in the spring. Nothing is to be
+gained by either of these mistakes and much killing out is apt to
+result.
+
+There was a time, some years ago, when it was possible to buy sheep
+manure that was worth something, but at the present time it is sold in
+powder form, and invites a strong suspicion of adulteration and of
+containing very much more than what is being paid for. If it is possible
+for you to get good sheep manure, use that by all means. It is
+efficient, cleanly, and produces very few weeds. It is best used at the
+rate of about a ton to the acre.
+
+Nitrate of soda is a very vigorous stimulant and produces quick results.
+It is economical, requiring but small quantities to cover large areas.
+Spread broadcast, about 175 lbs. to the acre; or, dissolved, 3 lbs. to
+every 100 gals. of water. The dry application should be made always
+before a rainstorm, otherwise much burning is apt to result to the
+grass. For an occasional application it is all right to use this, but
+for year-in-and-year-out fertilizer, it should be alternated with other
+things.
+
+
+
+
+LAWN-MOWER, ROLLER, AND HOSE
+
+
+After you have your ground made, your seed sown and germinated, your
+trouble is not all over, for it is a critical period through which to
+carry the tender grass to a hardy condition.
+
+Young grass should not be cut before it is three inches high, and this
+means that a scythe should be used in preference to a lawn-mower, as it
+is difficult to get the blades high enough to allow this length. In
+cutting for the first time, try to do it on a cloudy day, as this will
+prevent any possibility of scorching or burning. After a few weeks the
+grass will have so toughened that it will be benefited by frequent
+cuttings--even twice a week.
+
+The roller should be used after every cutting, and although it may
+seemingly be working injury by crushing down the tender grass, it is in
+reality making sure a solid and compact sod. In the middle of the summer
+when the weather is very hot, be careful not to crop too close, as the
+roots are liable to be killed out by the sun.
+
+When cutting your grass you will find it a great saving to have some
+sort of a grass-catcher on your lawn-mower. One can be made easily, but
+very handy ones are sold at a small price. They prevent the wear and
+tear to a lawn that results from the hard raking necessary when not
+used.
+
+There is a good grass-catcher that fits into the back of all machines;
+it is very effective and costs about fifty cents. It so effectively
+catches all the grass that comes from the machine that little raking is
+afterwards necessary. If you prefer the rake it is best to use a wooden
+one, as iron teeth do great damage to a heavy sod.
+
+Where the grass is cut frequently the clippings may safely be left on
+the ground, but heavy grass should be always gathered up.
+
+
+THE LAWN-MOWER
+
+There are hundreds of makes of lawn-mowers on the market, but of these
+very few will stand the test of a season's hard usage. These few will be
+found to be the standard makes of good design, and costing a seemingly
+high price. When you can get a lawn-mower with a pound of tea you may be
+sure that it is time to be suspicious, regardless of the pretty paint
+and ornamentation that makes it a symphony of colors. A good mower
+means that your lawn will look well after being cut with it, and it also
+means that the first seemingly high cost will be all that you will be
+called upon to expend in years to come. Such a mower is practically
+indestructible.
+
+Once or twice during the season, give it an overhauling. Grass and grit
+will creep in, and unless it is removed the efficiency of the machine
+will be greatly reduced.
+
+It sounds like automobile parlance to say "Use good oil," but this
+really applies equally as strongly to a lawn-mower. Cheap oil is
+expensive in the long run, as it thickens up and clogs the bearings, and
+makes it impossible for the mower to do its best work.
+
+[Illustration: It is surprising what a lot of grass and dirt finds its
+way into the lawn-mower. Take it apart once a season to clean and oil]
+
+This may seem like straining a point to get down to such trivial
+details, but it is just these little things that go to make up the
+getting and keeping of a lawn.
+
+
+THE ROLLER
+
+Next to having good seed to sow, on properly prepared ground, the great
+essential in lawn-making is a proper kind of roller to use as occasion
+requires. Few people realize just how important a part a roller plays in
+the upkeep of any grass area, but it is no exaggeration to say that
+without one, successful results will be difficult if not impossible of
+achievement. Use a roller--a heavy roller--on your lawn early in the
+spring to repair the damage that the freezing and thawing has caused in
+the winter.
+
+The early rolling levels the surface, packs the earth about the grass
+roots and makes it possible for them to draw the moisture from deep down
+in the ground. A roller is to be used often, not once each season. Its
+consistent use means that you will have fewer weeds, thicker and better
+colored grass; the disfiguring moles will find the ground too difficult
+to burrow through, moisture will be retained longer, and a noticeably
+better condition will be noted throughout the whole lawn.
+
+The old-time stone roller was an instrument of torture, and almost
+wholly unsuited for lawn work as suggested. There are now on the market
+dozens of ball-bearing rollers that are very easily handled. The
+adjustable kind, in which there are compartments to hold either sand or
+water to vary the weight, is the kind that should be purchased. With it
+you have a roller light enough to use for seeding, or heavy enough for
+road work, and the prices are not prohibitive.
+
+
+THE HOSE
+
+The hose is a subject to which very little attention is given.
+Paradoxical as it may seem, all rubber hose is not rubber hose, and
+because of this many lawns suffer from want of water, because the
+supposedly rubber hose has proved, when most needed, to be a combination
+of paper and scrap. A first-quality hose will cost from twenty to thirty
+cents a foot--a frightful price when comparison is made to the bargain
+price of four cents a foot. The expensive kind will last for years, and
+even after it begins to show signs of wear it can be used many years
+longer by proper repairing. The cheap hose bursts once, and its
+usefulness is at an end, as the first burst is only a preliminary of
+total dissolution.
+
+When a good hose bursts it is best repaired by cutting entirely through
+it and removing the damaged part, and then joining the ends with a
+little brass sleeve that is easily inserted into each of the severed
+ends and which has reversed prongs to prevent its slipping out. This is
+one of the best ready-made menders on the market, and it prolongs the
+life of a hose for years.
+
+Keep your hose on a reel. Empty it of water before winding up, and never
+allow it to lie baking in the sun. This latter is a very common fault
+and is the cause of much good hose being spoiled.
+
+Another seemingly trivial yet important thing is to caution against so
+fastening the hose to the tap that it pulls away from it at
+right-angles.
+
+For ordinary purposes the half-inch size of hose is the best. It costs
+less in the first place, is more easily handled, and the wear and tear
+is much less than on the larger sizes.
+
+You never see a gardener using any spraying contrivance on the end of a
+hose. In his thumb and forefinger, which he skillfully moves over the
+flowing stream, he has a combination of sprayers that can produce the
+heaviest stream or the finest mist at will. This is to be recommended,
+but few will care to follow the course of training necessary to acquire
+the efficiency of the gardener.
+
+
+
+
+WEEDS AND OTHER PESTS
+
+
+Even if you paid a thousand dollars a bushel for your grass seed, and
+then spent as much more on the preparation of your land, you could not,
+I am sorry to say, escape having weeds.
+
+The thing to do when you have them is to get rid of them, and this is
+accomplished only by getting right after them with a persistence
+proportionate to the abundance of the weeds. The knife is the only real
+weapon for this. After digging out your weeds, sow in grass seed with
+the idea of making the grass grow so thick that there will be no place
+for the weeds to creep in. Dandelions and plantains are simple matters
+that can be handled easily, but where Crab Grass shows up, there is
+certainly work ahead to get the best of it. It is a destroyer of the
+first rank, a veritable pest. It is an annual that seeds itself each
+year and kills out under the first frost, leaving great bald spaces in
+the lawn to show where it has been. Even after it has been killed by the
+frost its baneful influence is not ended, for it has spread broadcast
+its seeds for the next year's crop.
+
+When you find it, dig it out. It means work and lots of it, but it is
+the only way to conquer it. Set the blades of the mower low, and after
+dragging the grass up with a rake, run the machine over it; and this
+should be done early in the year, before July. There is no weed to equal
+this as a nuisance.
+
+On newly-made lawns the weeds are easily removed, and they should be
+carefully watched so as not to allow them to get too far ahead.
+Chickweed is almost as bad as Crab Grass, and when you find the
+combination, Crab Grass and Chickweed, the simplest solution is to spade
+or plow the place up in the fall and leave it exposed for the winter.
+
+For the broad-leaved varieties of weeds there is a preparation of what
+is called sand on the market that I have tried with very good success. I
+sprinkle it on the weeds and within an hour afterwards they have
+shriveled and turned black.
+
+While it doubtless is very efficient in destroying the top growth, I am
+unable to say that it is at all injurious to the roots, and may,
+perhaps, even stimulate them to renewed growth the following season.
+However, my experience with it was a happy one, for just as soon as the
+weeds died down I sowed in grass seed, which quickly germinated.
+
+[Illustration: There is only one sure way of eradicating weeds, and that
+is by cutting them out with a knife as soon as they appear. Delay in the
+attack will give them time to bring up heavy reinforcements]
+
+
+WORMS, ANTS, AND MOLES
+
+Very often earthworms become very disfiguring on a grass plot. Where
+there are many present it is an indication that the earth is in poor
+condition, compacted, and needing humus. An application of strong
+lime-water will drive many to the surface, where they can be swept up;
+or a heavy rolling with a 1,500-lb. roller will do much to discourage
+them.
+
+It is surprising how much damage a colony of ants can do on a lawn. They
+should be looked after the first time they are noticed, for they work
+rapidly, and the longer neglected the more difficult it is to
+eradicate them.
+
+There are many remedies recommended, but the best one lies in the use of
+bisulphide of carbon. This is very effective, but it has come into such
+common use that a word of caution should be given as to its handling.
+It is very volatile and, when near flame, powerfully explosive, and
+should be handled with great care. Pour it into the runways of the ants,
+and then throw over these a mat. The fumes will speedily kill all the
+ants. A better way, however, is to drive a stick into the ground in
+several places where the colony is located, and in these holes pour the
+carbon, afterwards plugging the holes up tightly.
+
+Moles are frequently found on lawns, but they are not serious because
+they can be easily controlled by heavily rolling or by traps made to
+catch them. Where there is a suspicion of the presence of moles, no time
+should be lost in getting after them. They sometimes work for a long
+time before their destructive borings are evident, and then it will take
+much labor to get ahead of them. Keep the heavy roller going as an
+excellent preventive.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Lawn
+
+Author: Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+Release Date: October 27, 2008 [EBook #27066]
+
+Language: English
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+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A LAWN ***
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+
+
+<h1 class="title1">MAKING<br />A LAWN</h1>
+
+<h2><i>THE HOUSE &amp; GARDEN<br />
+<span class="u">MAKING</span><br />
+BOOKS</i></h2>
+
+<p>It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which <i>Making a Lawn</i> is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: <i>Making a Rose Garden</i>; <i>Making a Tennis Court</i>; <i>Making a
+Garden Bloom This Year</i>; <i>Making a Fireplace</i>; <i>Making Roads and Paths</i>;
+<i>Making a Poultry House</i>; <i>Making a Hotbed and Coldframe</i>; <i>Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats</i>; <i>Making a Rock Garden</i>; <i>Making
+a Water Garden</i>; <i>Making a Perennial Border</i>; <i>Making a Shrubbery
+Group</i>; <i>Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden</i>; with others to be announced
+later.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a>
+<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="332" alt="" title="The Lawn is an Important Element in the Setting for a Country Place" />
+<span class="caption">Lawn is probably the most important element in the
+setting for most country houses, yet all too frequently it is expected
+to make and take care of itself</span>
+</div>
+
+<table class="tp" summary="title page">
+<tr><td class="tp1" colspan="3"><h1 class="tp wide">MAKING<br />
+A · LAWN ·</h1></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tp2" colspan="3"><span class="wide2"><i>By</i> LUKE J. DOOGUE</span><br />
+<small>SUPERINTENDENT OF BOSTON PUBLIC GROUNDS DEPARTMENT</small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tp4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="tp3"><div class="figdeco" style="width: 70px;">
+<img src="images/deco1.png" width="70" height="70" alt="" title="" />
+</div></td>
+<td class="tp4">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tp1" colspan="3"><small>NEW YORK</small><br />
+<span class="wide3">McBRIDE, NAST &amp; COMPANY</span><br />
+<small>1912</small></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="copyright">
+<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1912, by</span><br />
+McBRIDE, NAST &amp; CO.</p>
+
+<p class="copyright">Published March, 1912<br />
+</p>
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table summary="contents">
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Small Lawn, Old and New</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Treatment of Large Areas</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Grass Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Sowing the Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Sodding</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Good Loam and Fertilizers</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Lawn-mower, Roller, and Hose</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Weeds and Other Pests</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h2>THE ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table class="loi" summary="contents">
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Lawn is an Important Element
+in the Setting for a Country Place</span></td>
+<td align='right'><a href="#Frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td></td><td align='right'><small>FACING<br />
+PAGE</small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Path of Stepping-stones To Save
+Labor in Mowing</span></td> <td align='right'><a href="#stone-path">4</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Successful Covering of a Steeply
+Sloping Bank</span></td> <td align='right'><a href="#steep-bank">14</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Golf Course and Putting-green</span></td>
+<td align='right'><a href="#golf">20</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Result of a Cheap, Ready-made
+Mixture of Grass Seed</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#cheap-seed">28</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">One of the Most Difficult Places
+To Make a Lawn&mdash;Under Large
+Shade Trees</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#shade-trees">34</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Necessity for an Occasional
+Cleaning of the Lawn-mower</span></td> <td align='right'><a href="#mower">40</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Only Sure Way To Eradicate
+Weeds</span></td> <td align='right'><a href="#weeds">48</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 1 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><big>Making a Lawn</big><br />
+<br />
+THE SMALL LAWN, OLD AND NEW</h2>
+
+<p>TO the thousands of anxious inquirers, seeking solution of lawn
+difficulties, it would be more than delightful to say that a fine lawn
+could be had by very hard wishing, but honesty compels one to change the
+words "hard wishing" to "hard work," in order to keep strictly within
+the truth. A well-made lawn is a testimonial to a hustler, whether the
+area is small or large.</p>
+
+<p>The majority of inquiries about lawn needs come from people having small
+places, from a few hundred to a few thousand feet, and the symptoms
+described<!-- Page 2 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> can be divided into two classes: one where they want to make
+grass grow where it has never grown before, and the other where the call
+is for information to assist in restoring old lawns that have petered
+out. Let us take up the last condition first.</p>
+
+<p>Where grass has grown for some years it is conclusive evidence that
+there must be soil beneath, which, perhaps because of neglect, has
+ceased to supply the nourishment necessary to maintain the vigor of the
+sod growing upon it. As a consequence, weeds gradually creep in and
+finally crowd out every blade of grass.</p>
+
+<p>A condition like this is easily remedied and an improvement brought
+about in short order and at very small expense.</p>
+
+<p>In the first place make a general clearing up of the weeds and do it as
+thoroughly as possible. Take them out with a<!-- Page 3 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> strong knife, cutting deep
+into the ground. An asparagus knife is the best for this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>If the place under treatment were to be spaded up, this weed-cleaning
+with the knife would not be necessary, but the object in this instance
+is to disturb the soil as little as possible.</p>
+
+<p>With the weeds out of the way, go over the whole place with a sharp rake
+and scratch the earth to the depth of half an inch. In doing this
+remember to be not too severe on spots where there is any grass growing,
+applying the rake lightly here. After the raking, sow grass seed thickly
+and evenly, raking it in, and finish by watering and rolling. Be sure to
+roll heavily, water regularly, and good results will surely come.</p>
+
+<p>This, in brief, is the most practical way to treat the conditions
+described.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 4 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+<p>If, however, you should find that the ground shows patches of moss and
+sorrel, the treatment just suggested will not apply. The land is
+probably sour, and should be plowed up, limed, and allowed to lay rough
+all winter. Use about a bushel and a half of air-slaked lime to every
+thousand square feet.</p>
+
+<p>When the object is to make a lawn where there never has been one, the
+plow or the spade is the most effective weapon.</p>
+
+<p>It must be kept in mind that grass on a lawn is a great feeder, and no
+soil can be made too rich to supply its food requirements. A lawn is a
+permanent planting, not something that is to last merely for a season.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;">
+<a name="stone-path" id="stone-path"></a>
+<img src="images/stone-path.jpg" width="390" height="600" alt="" title="A Path of Stepping-stones To Save Labor in Mowing" />
+<span class="caption">Here is an interesting and ingenious scheme of getting a
+path over the lawn without increasing the labor of cutting. The
+stepping-stones are set flush with the ground</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Start this work of preparation for a new lawn in the fall. Spade the
+land to the depth of two feet, or, better still, run a plow through it,
+if the size of<!-- Page 5 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> the place warrants. Work in plenty of well-rotted
+manure, and during the winter the frost and snow will greatly improve
+conditions, killing the weeds, and mellowing the soil as nothing else
+can.</p>
+
+<p>In the spring, harrow and cross-harrow the plot, smooth out the surface,
+rake fine, and sow your seed. If, however, the soil is gravelly, there
+is no use trying to doctor it up with the expectation of getting good
+results.</p>
+
+<p>As has been said, you need a good loam in which to grow grass, so that
+if it is not good you must dig out what is there to the depth of two
+feet and replace it with suitable soil.</p>
+
+<p>There is no short-cut for reaching results with the aid of fertilizers,
+for all the chemicals in the land will amount to but little if the soil
+conditions are not proper to receive them.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 6 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+<p>It is simply a question of supplying the material to get results.</p>
+
+<h3>A New Way to Renovate a Small Lawn</h3>
+
+<p>On a small place where the necessity for radical treatment is apparent,
+yet where it is not advisable to upset the premises at that particular
+time, results can be reached in a way that will be effectual.</p>
+
+<p>Take a round stick about an inch in diameter and three feet long, and
+sharpen one end of it. At frequent intervals about the grounds drive the
+stick to the depth of about two feet. Make many such holes, and into
+these ram a mixture of finely powdered manure, hardwood ashes, and bone
+meal. Cover the holes with loam, and on the top of each put a piece of
+sod and beat it down with the back of a spade.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 7 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p><p>In a short time the good effects of this treatment will manifest
+themselves, and during the subsequent season the treatment can be
+extended to the parts not touched before. It practically means that the
+land will be as thoroughly renovated as if it had been plowed and
+harrowed. This is no fanciful idea, for the operation justifies results
+whenever tried. It is advisable to water liberally and regularly for
+some time.</p>
+
+<p>Of course this applies particularly to very small places, and nothing
+will be gained by treating large areas this way.</p>
+
+<p>Shrubs and trees are greatly benefited by this method of administering
+nourishment, and where old plants have grown for a long time and are
+seemingly stunted, this feeding will stimulate them to immediate growth.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 8 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>THE TREATMENT OF LARGE AREAS</h2>
+
+<p>WHILE it is a very simple matter to shape up a small grass plot,
+renovating it as to soil and all that is necessary to lay the foundation
+of a successful lawn, it becomes another matter when large areas are in
+question. Here it requires taste, experience, and familiarity with
+prevailing conditions to enable one successfully to get out of the
+problem all that there is in it. If we have not had the necessary
+experience, it would not be safe to venture upon doing the work without
+expert advice.</p>
+
+<p>Developing a large area means the making of a picture that, year in and
+year out, is to be before our eyes, and unless<!-- Page 9 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> there is a most
+harmonious relation of all accessories&mdash;trees, contours, vistas, roads,
+and so on&mdash;there is sure to come a time of wearying monotony, caused by
+a realization of the fact that we had not been quite equal, through our
+lack of experience, to develop the place as it might have been
+developed.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of ground in the rough must first be shaped up by draining,
+removing trees or stones, planning roads and such things, before the
+smoothing process can be attempted, and it is in this roughing-out
+process where the future landscape picture is either made or destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>Here is where the professional landscape man can save you many dollars
+and much disappointment. I have seen so many sad results in cases of
+land development where too much confidence has been the stumbling-block
+on the road to<!-- Page 10 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> success, that I feel justified in harping on the
+necessity of asking advice from those who are competent to give it.</p>
+
+<h3>Saving Trees</h3>
+
+<p>Great consideration should be given to the matter of saving trees,
+whether these are large or small. Small trees can be handled like so
+much merchandise, and successfully moved from place to place. It is
+preferable to move these in winter. Dig about them so that there will be
+a ball of earth large enough to keep intact; then it is necessary merely
+to allow this ball to freeze up hard before tilting it onto a stone
+drag, shifting it and its fellows to positions that will most benefit
+the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Large trees can be moved, but at considerable expense, and such work
+should<!-- Page 11 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> be left to the professionals. They have the facilities and from
+experience the knowledge and knack of it, and this means much for
+success. Some companies will even give a bond to guarantee their work.</p>
+
+<p>Trees about which the grade is to be raised should be protected, so that
+the soil will not come within some distance of the trunk. A rough piling
+of stones about the tree, or a circle of drain pipe about it will give
+the needed protection. Trees play such a vital part in the adornment of
+a piece of land, whether large or small, that none that is needed should
+be sacrificed until every effort to save it has failed.</p>
+
+<h3>Draining Land</h3>
+
+<p>Where the soil is soggy and retains too much moisture, this condition
+must be remedied before attempting to make it<!-- Page 12 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> into a lawn. The remedy
+is found by draining, and this is done by digging ditches or laying
+tiles under ground at varying distances apart, all tending towards the
+lowest part of the land, to which the water must be induced to flow. The
+number of drains is to be determined by existing conditions.</p>
+
+<p>Land that could not be used before will, after a system of drainage has
+been installed, be so benefited that most anything can be grown upon it.
+Lawns made on such land are always luxuriant and resist the effect of
+drought even of long duration, drawing upon the supply of water that
+extends deep down below the surface.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 13 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>GRASS SEED</h2>
+
+<p>SO much has been written on the subject of lawn-making that about every
+one interested in this work is fully competent, theoretically at least,
+to carry through the process of land renovation and preparation, whether
+it be for a small lawn or an area consisting of acres. The subject along
+these lines has been exhaustively treated, but, strange to say, the
+equally important subject of grass seed has been rather neglected. While
+many amateurs can talk freely on the preparation of the land, they are
+not so confident when treating of grass seed. It seems strange that this
+is the case when so much depends on the suitability of the grass seed to
+the land for the making<!-- Page 14 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> of a successful lawn. The only reason, as far
+as I can see, why people are not versed in this matter is that they have
+been frightened by the botanical names of grasses, which seem wholly
+unsuitable and too difficult of pronunciation for such commonplace
+things. There is, however, just as much individuality in a plant
+produced from a grass seed as in the choicest plant in a greenhouse. One
+kind of grass seed will produce a low-growing plant while another grows
+high; one wants a moist situation, another a dry one; some will
+germinate in the shade, others will not, and so on through the list. If
+a person knows each kind and its possibilities and requirements, he will
+be able to choose the grass best suited for his wants, and by careful
+trials arrange the mixtures with better success than the man in the
+wholesale house who is obliged to<!-- Page 15 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> guess at what is best for his
+wants. Start out, then, in the primer class and tabulate some of the
+best grasses used for lawns, and tag them with both their names, the
+botanical and the common ones.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;">
+<a name="steep-bank" id="steep-bank"></a>
+<img src="images/steep-bank.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="" title="A Successful Covering of a Steeply Sloping Bank" />
+<span class="caption">For sloping banks and terracing, a mixture of Kentucky
+Blue, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent, Sheep Fescue and White Clover,
+in the proportions given, will probably answer</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Kentucky Blue Grass&mdash;<i>Poa pratensis</i>. Fine for lawns; grows slowly but
+vigorously almost everywhere but on an acid soil.</p>
+
+<p>Red Top&mdash;<i>Agrostis vulgaris</i>. Shows results more quickly than Blue
+Grass; will thrive on a sandy soil; fine in combination with Blue Grass.</p>
+
+<p>English Rye Grass&mdash;<i>Lolium perenne</i>. Grows quickly and shows almost
+immediate results; good to combine with the slow-growing Blue Grass.</p>
+
+<p>Various-leaved Fescue&mdash;<i>Festuca heterophylla</i>. Good for shady and moist
+places.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 16 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+<p>Rhode Island Bent&mdash;<i>Agrostis canina</i>. Has a creeping habit; good for
+putting-greens, sandy soils.</p>
+
+<p>Creeping Bent&mdash;<i>Agrostis stolonifera</i>. Creeping habit; good for sandy
+places and to bind banks or sloping places. Combined with Rhode Island
+Bent for putting-greens.</p>
+
+<p>Crested Dog's-tail&mdash;<i>Cynosurus cristatus</i>. Forms a low and compact
+sward; good for slopes and shady places.</p>
+
+<p>Wood Meadow Grass&mdash;<i>Poa nemoralis</i>. Good for shady places; is very
+hardy.</p>
+
+<p>Red Fescue&mdash;<i>Festuca rubra</i>. Thrives on poor soils and gravelly banks.</p>
+
+<p>White Clover&mdash;<i>Trifolium repens</i>. Good for slopes; not to be recommended
+for a lawn.</p>
+
+<p>Sheep Fescue&mdash;<i>Festuca ovina</i>. Good for light, dry soils.</p>
+
+<p>Now, with so much as a reference li<!-- Page 17 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>brary, you will have sufficient
+knowledge of the kinds of seeds to draw from to make combinations that
+will fit any situation. I would further suggest that you go to a
+wholesale house and get a sample of each of these seeds and examine
+them. Get just a little of each in an envelope. Make a comparative
+examination of the seeds, holding a little in the palm of the hand. As
+you look at each seed repeat its name a few times and recall its
+characteristics, and you will be surprised to find that on the second or
+third trial every name will suggest itself the moment your eyes rest on
+the seed. With a knowledge of the seeds you can then go to your dealer
+and tell him what you want&mdash;not necessarily what he thinks you want. You
+are then a better judge than he is.</p>
+
+<p>It is worth while following the subject farther, for the results will
+more than<!-- Page 18 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> repay the trouble. Test the seeds. Make shallow boxes and
+fill them with loam, and sow each kind of seed just as you would on a
+lawn. Put a label at the head of the box and on it the time of sowing
+the seed. Do this with as many as you can. Then watch and make notes of
+the time it takes for germination. Note also the character of the
+blades. Having finished this you will have a very liberal education in
+the subject of grass.</p>
+
+<p>Should you not care to do as suggested above, you will be dependent on
+others to get what you most need. If you should go to a dozen people and
+ask them to suggest a combination of seeds, they would all give them
+readily to you, but no two proportions would be alike. If you should ask
+for a single grass, the majority would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass. For
+a single grass there is nothing better suited<!-- Page 19 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> for all conditions. There
+is this objection to it, however: it is not a nervous man's grass. You
+cannot plant it to-day and have a lawn next month. If you can afford to
+wait, sow Kentucky Blue and your patience will be well rewarded. It
+makes a permanent lawn.</p>
+
+<p>To introduce the ready-made lawn, use a combination of Kentucky Blue,
+Red Top, and English Rye. The Blue Grass is slow, but the Rye and Red
+Top produce speedier results. The first month will see the newly seeded
+space a carpet of green. In time the Rye passes, the Red Top continues
+to cover, while the Blue Grass grows sturdier each day until it crowds
+everything out by virtue of its own strength. Use 12 lbs. of Kentucky
+Blue Grass, 5 lbs. of Red Top and 3 lbs. of English Rye Grass to the
+bushel, and sow 3&frac12; to 4 bushels to the acre. This<!-- Page 20 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> makes a reliable
+combination. It is common to hear people asking for grass that will grow
+in shady places, but it is always difficult to determine the degree of
+shade. A place may be shaded and yet suitable for growing grass, or it
+may be so shaded that no grass known could be made to germinate there.
+In places where there is no heavy dripping and where the ground is not
+absolutely dark, use the following:</p>
+
+<p>Kentucky Blue Grass, Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue, and
+Crested Dog's-tail. Use 35 per cent. of the first two and 15 per cent.
+of the last two.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="golf" id="golf"></a>
+<img src="images/golf.jpg" width="600" height="340" alt="" title="Golf Course and Putting-green" />
+<span class="caption">The turf on a putting-green or tennis court must be dense
+and low, as well as tough. Rhode Island Bent and Creeping Bent in
+combination are frequently used on a sandy soil to stunt the growth</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For conditions that require a quick-growing grass, and something that
+will bind and make a holding upon slopes under difficult conditions, the
+following is recommended: Kentucky Blue Grass, 30 per cent.; R. I. Bent,
+30 per cent.; Creeping Bent, 25 per cent.; Sheep Fescue,<!-- Page 21 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> 10 per
+cent., and White Clover, 5 per cent. This is one of the places where
+White Clover is an essential. Under these conditions it fulfils its
+mission perfectly. While all the named kinds may not flourish, there
+will be enough to make the work successful.</p>
+
+<p>The turf on a putting-green must be dense and low, and tough enough to
+stand a lot of rough usage. A combination of Rhode Island Bent and
+Creeping Bent is about the best thing for this purpose. To check up,
+just refer back to your schedule and see what it says regarding the
+qualities of these grasses.</p>
+
+<p>The soil on a putting-green should be of a sandy nature. This keeps the
+grass stunted through lack of much food, and consequently better fits it
+for its purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Never buy grass seed by the bushel. Buy it by weight, or stipulate that
+there<!-- Page 22 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> shall be so many pounds to the bushel. It will cost you a high
+price, but it will be far cheaper in the end than to buy something
+inexpensive that has more than a third of sweepings and useless bulk.
+You certainly lose nothing by buying the very best seed that your dealer
+can offer you.</p>
+
+<p>Do not be ashamed to ask for samples before buying, and also get samples
+from a number of places and compare the different seeds. Spread them out
+in your hand and see if they are clean and without chaff. A seed with a
+large proportion of dust and chaff is not worth buying. It should be
+your consideration to see whether you are getting what you pay for. If
+you show evidences of knowing the proper seeds you will receive a most
+respectful hearing from the tradesman. Do not balk at the price of
+re-cleaned seed.<!-- Page 23 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> It means that you are going to get something for your
+money. It is worth much more than the seed sold in bulk that is not
+re-cleaned.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 24 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>SOWING THE SEED</h2>
+
+<p>THE nearest thing, by way of comparison, to a lawn is a bed of plants
+that you set out in your garden every spring. When you think it is
+planting time you go to this bed with spade or fork and turn the earth
+up from the deep bottom, putting in plenty of well-rotted manure, thus
+ministering to the soil according to its needs. Then you set out the
+plants, and if weeds grow up you dig them out, after which you water the
+spot intelligently. For this labor your reward comes to you in the shape
+of an abundance of bloom and foliage.</p>
+
+<p>Just as truly is a lawn a bed of plants needing an equal amount of
+treatment. Grass is nothing but a collection of thou<!-- Page 25 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>sands of little
+plants crowded together, which must have nourishment, and from which the
+weeds must be taken. Likewise the soil must be given water as it is
+needed and the earth must be made mellow for the roots, to a good depth.
+It makes no difference how much you pay for your grass seed, how good or
+bad it is, or what kind of fertilizers you use, if the bed is not
+properly prepared in the first place. Without this fundamental
+preparation, grass plants will not grow, or if they do, will not thrive.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite a trick to sow grass seed evenly so that it will germinate
+without giving the plot a spotty effect. It should be spread at the rate
+of about three bushels to the acre, and this sowing can be successfully
+done only on a quiet day. Even a very light wind is liable to pile up
+your seed on your neighbor's lot or on<!-- Page 26 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> your own in places not wanted.
+Keep the seed in a pail while sowing, and, after taking a handful, bend
+close to the soil and let the seed feed through the fingers as the arm
+swings back and forth in a semicircle. This is very much easier to say
+than to do, but a little experience will make one quite proficient. To
+help still more, sow the seed two ways, one at right angles to the
+other. After sowing, rake lightly and then finish the work by putting a
+heavy roller over it.</p>
+
+<p>While thick sowing has the advantage of discouraging a growth of weeds,
+there is a limit that cannot be safely passed. Seed too thickly sown
+will mat and damp out, leaving great patches on the lawn. Do not exceed
+the quantity suggested above.</p>
+
+<p>Spring sowing should be done just as soon as the frost is out of the
+ground.<!-- Page 27 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> This early sowing gives the young grass a chance to establish
+itself before the severe summer heat comes on. Careful watering is
+necessary, with a fine spray, and if regularly done will induce rapid
+germination. In watering do not wash out the seed by too heavy a stream.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 28 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>SODDING</h2>
+
+<p>LIKE seeding, sodding should be done in the early spring or fall to get
+the best results. Oftentimes it is necessary to do the work in midsummer
+and this, while not advisable, can be successfully accomplished if the
+sods are laid soon after they are cut and then copiously watered every
+day until all danger of drying out has passed.</p>
+
+<p>In butting the sods together, use a wooden mallet, and pound the sod
+into close contact with the loam beneath, flattening all joints so that
+the growth will be uniform.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="cheap-seed" id="cheap-seed"></a>
+<img src="images/cheap-seed.jpg" width="600" height="316" alt="" title="The Result of a Cheap, Ready-made Mixture of Grass Seed" />
+<span class="caption">The inevitable result of sowing a cheap, ready-made
+mixture of grass seed. It is worth while studying the qualities of the
+various elements and making your own mixture</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On large seeded areas outline these with a border of sods, which gives a
+well-defined edge and trim appearance to the<!-- Page 29 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> work. If you should know
+of a place where there is a particularly fine growth of grass, it would
+be a paying proposition to buy sufficient sods from it to answer your
+needs. Sods, cut and delivered, will cost about eight cents per square
+foot. This price may be shaded somewhat if the sods are bought in bulk
+and the cutting and carting is done by yourself. Under any circumstances
+the work will be expensive.</p>
+
+<p>On banks and terraces it is preferable to use sods rather than seeding.
+The sods can be held in place with wooden pegs driven through them seven
+or eight inches into the bank. Over this work scatter some seed and give
+a light dressing of loam; then pound the whole to an even surface.</p>
+
+<p>When the bank is too steep to hold the sods pegged in this way, they
+should be<!-- Page 30 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> piled upon each other horizontally, so that the ends will
+form the surface of the bank. This effects the double purpose of
+creating a permanent sward and also a depth of ten inches of loam upon
+which it can feed.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 31 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>GOOD LOAM AND FERTILIZERS</h2>
+
+<p>LOAM is scarce; that is, <em>good</em> loam is scarce. To help make up the
+deficiency, every one should form a compost heap, and into it pile
+leaves, lawn rakings, pieces of sod, and all such matter, all of which
+will be reduced in time by decomposition to the much-desired humus. A
+small quantity of this humus, mixed with fairly good loam, will make
+good loam of it all, and suitable for sustaining plant life.</p>
+
+<p>In the fall, when the leaves are falling from the trees, it is a good
+idea to gather up from the gutters the accumulated leaves and put them
+in the compost heap. There may be a little expense and trouble<!-- Page 32 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> to it,
+but there is no question as to the fact that you will be fully repaid
+when you find the necessity for some real loam.</p>
+
+<p>Near cities loam of very inferior quality will cost at least $2 per
+cubic yard, and if one has a quantity of leaf-mould, made as suggested,
+and will mix it with this loam, a very desirable quality can be
+produced. The leaf-mould is the life of the soil and absolutely
+essential to satisfactory results.</p>
+
+<h3>Spring Top-dressing</h3>
+
+<p>A lawn that has been properly made will not suffer if it is not given a
+yearly dressing, for it will have sufficient food supply in the ground
+to keep it going for years.</p>
+
+<p>Strange as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being given
+a heavy application of manure year after<!-- Page 33 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> year. When a top-dressing is
+necessary on soil that is good, Canada hardwood ashes and bone meal will
+supply all the nourishment that is necessary. Spread the ashes thickly
+on the lawn until they show white on the grass, and do the work
+preferably before a rain, so that the nourishment may be washed into the
+soil.</p>
+
+<p>The Canada hardwood ashes, as usually found in the market, contain from
+one to five per cent. of potash, but to get the results you are looking
+for, the ashes should contain from seven to nine per cent. of potash. In
+purchasing this fertilizer in large quantities demand a guaranteed
+analysis, otherwise you are liable to get something little better than
+what you take out of your stove, and wholly useless for lawn purposes.
+There are good ashes on the market and they can be had if one goes after
+them vigorously<!-- Page 34 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> enough and gives some indication of a knowledge of what
+good ashes are.</p>
+
+<p>When it is not possible to get what you are looking for, I would
+recommend mixing muriate of potash with finely sifted loam, and
+spreading it broadcast over the grass. This treatment is always
+efficacious, as you are absolutely sure of getting what is necessary for
+the land.</p>
+
+<h3>Manure Top-dressing</h3>
+
+<p>Many prefer to use a top-dressing of manure, regardless of conditions.
+It is sure to bring more or less weeds. If you decide to use it,
+however, get the thoroughly decomposed kind, as this means a minimum of
+weeds. I do not want to create the impression that I am trying to
+belittle the fertilizing value of manure. I believe in having a liberal
+quantity of it incorporated with the soil<!-- Page 35 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> when the lawn is made, and
+I also believe that on such a soil Canada ashes and bone meal are very
+much more suitable to keep it up to pitch than is a top-dressing of
+manure.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="shade-trees" id="shade-trees"></a>
+<img src="images/shade-trees.jpg" width="600" height="313" alt="" title="One of the Most Difficult Places To Make a Lawn&mdash;Under Large Shade Trees" />
+<span class="caption">One of the most difficult places in which to make a lawn
+is under large shade trees. A combination of Kentucky Blue, Wood Meadow,
+Various-leaved Fescue and Crested Dog&#39;s-tail is usually successful</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When manure is used for a top-dressing, do not get it on too thick, and
+do not leave it too long on the grass in the spring. Nothing is to be
+gained by either of these mistakes and much killing out is apt to
+result.</p>
+
+<p>There was a time, some years ago, when it was possible to buy sheep
+manure that was worth something, but at the present time it is sold in
+powder form, and invites a strong suspicion of adulteration and of
+containing very much more than what is being paid for. If it is possible
+for you to get good sheep manure, use that by all means. It is
+efficient, cleanly, and produces very few weeds. It is best<!-- Page 36 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> used at the
+rate of about a ton to the acre.</p>
+
+<p>Nitrate of soda is a very vigorous stimulant and produces quick results.
+It is economical, requiring but small quantities to cover large areas.
+Spread broadcast, about 175 lbs. to the acre; or, dissolved, 3 lbs. to
+every 100 gals. of water. The dry application should be made always
+before a rainstorm, otherwise much burning is apt to result to the
+grass. For an occasional application it is all right to use this, but
+for year-in-and-year-out fertilizer, it should be alternated with other
+things.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 37 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>LAWN-MOWER, ROLLER, AND HOSE</h2>
+
+<p>AFTER you have your ground made, your seed sown and germinated, your
+trouble is not all over, for it is a critical period through which to
+carry the tender grass to a hardy condition.</p>
+
+<p>Young grass should not be cut before it is three inches high, and this
+means that a scythe should be used in preference to a lawn-mower, as it
+is difficult to get the blades high enough to allow this length. In
+cutting for the first time, try to do it on a cloudy day, as this will
+prevent any possibility of scorching or burning. After a few weeks the
+grass will have so toughened that it will be benefited by frequent
+cuttings&mdash;even twice a week.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 38 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p>
+<p>The roller should be used after every cutting, and although it may
+seemingly be working injury by crushing down the tender grass, it is in
+reality making sure a solid and compact sod. In the middle of the summer
+when the weather is very hot, be careful not to crop too close, as the
+roots are liable to be killed out by the sun.</p>
+
+<p>When cutting your grass you will find it a great saving to have some
+sort of a grass-catcher on your lawn-mower. One can be made easily, but
+very handy ones are sold at a small price. They prevent the wear and
+tear to a lawn that results from the hard raking necessary when not
+used.</p>
+
+<p>There is a good grass-catcher that fits into the back of all machines;
+it is very effective and costs about fifty cents. It so effectively
+catches all the grass that<!-- Page 39 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> comes from the machine that little raking is
+afterwards necessary. If you prefer the rake it is best to use a wooden
+one, as iron teeth do great damage to a heavy sod.</p>
+
+<p>Where the grass is cut frequently the clippings may safely be left on
+the ground, but heavy grass should be always gathered up.</p>
+
+<h3>The Lawn-mower</h3>
+
+<p>There are hundreds of makes of lawn-mowers on the market, but of these
+very few will stand the test of a season's hard usage. These few will be
+found to be the standard makes of good design, and costing a seemingly
+high price. When you can get a lawn-mower with a pound of tea you may be
+sure that it is time to be suspicious, regardless of the pretty paint
+and ornamentation that makes it a sym<!-- Page 40 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>phony of colors. A good mower
+means that your lawn will look well after being cut with it, and it also
+means that the first seemingly high cost will be all that you will be
+called upon to expend in years to come. Such a mower is practically
+indestructible.</p>
+
+<p>Once or twice during the season, give it an overhauling. Grass and grit
+will creep in, and unless it is removed the efficiency of the machine
+will be greatly reduced.</p>
+
+<p>It sounds like automobile parlance to say "Use good oil," but this
+really applies equally as strongly to a lawn-mower. Cheap oil is
+expensive in the long run, as it thickens up and clogs the bearings, and
+makes it impossible for the mower to do its best work.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;">
+<a name="mower" id="mower"></a>
+<img src="images/mower.jpg" width="384" height="600" alt="" title="The Necessity for an Occasional Cleaning of the Lawn-mower" />
+<span class="caption">It is surprising what a lot of grass and dirt finds its
+way into the lawn-mower. Take it apart once a season to clean and oil</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This may seem like straining a point to get down to such trivial
+details, but it<!-- Page 41 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> is just these little things that go to make up the
+getting and keeping of a lawn.</p>
+
+<h3>The Roller</h3>
+
+<p>Next to having good seed to sow, on properly prepared ground, the great
+essential in lawn-making is a proper kind of roller to use as occasion
+requires. Few people realize just how important a part a roller plays in
+the upkeep of any grass area, but it is no exaggeration to say that
+without one, successful results will be difficult if not impossible of
+achievement. Use a roller&mdash;a heavy roller&mdash;on your lawn early in the
+spring to repair the damage that the freezing and thawing has caused in
+the winter.</p>
+
+<p>The early rolling levels the surface, packs the earth about the grass
+roots and makes it possible for them to draw the moisture from deep down
+in the<!-- Page 42 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> ground. A roller is to be used often, not once each season. Its
+consistent use means that you will have fewer weeds, thicker and better
+colored grass; the disfiguring moles will find the ground too difficult
+to burrow through, moisture will be retained longer, and a noticeably
+better condition will be noted throughout the whole lawn.</p>
+
+<p>The old-time stone roller was an instrument of torture, and almost
+wholly unsuited for lawn work as suggested. There are now on the market
+dozens of ball-bearing rollers that are very easily handled. The
+adjustable kind, in which there are compartments to hold either sand or
+water to vary the weight, is the kind that should be purchased. With it
+you have a roller light enough to use for seeding, or heavy enough for
+road work, and the prices are not prohibitive.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 43 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>The Hose</h3>
+
+<p>The hose is a subject to which very little attention is given.
+Paradoxical as it may seem, all rubber hose is not rubber hose, and
+because of this many lawns suffer from want of water, because the
+supposedly rubber hose has proved, when most needed, to be a combination
+of paper and scrap. A first-quality hose will cost from twenty to thirty
+cents a foot&mdash;a frightful price when comparison is made to the bargain
+price of four cents a foot. The expensive kind will last for years, and
+even after it begins to show signs of wear it can be used many years
+longer by proper repairing. The cheap hose bursts once, and its
+usefulness is at an end, as the first burst is only a preliminary of
+total dissolution.</p>
+
+<p>When a good hose bursts it is best re<!-- Page 44 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>paired by cutting entirely through
+it and removing the damaged part, and then joining the ends with a
+little brass sleeve that is easily inserted into each of the severed
+ends and which has reversed prongs to prevent its slipping out. This is
+one of the best ready-made menders on the market, and it prolongs the
+life of a hose for years.</p>
+
+<p>Keep your hose on a reel. Empty it of water before winding up, and never
+allow it to lie baking in the sun. This latter is a very common fault
+and is the cause of much good hose being spoiled.</p>
+
+<p>Another seemingly trivial yet important thing is to caution against so
+fastening the hose to the tap that it pulls away from it at
+right-angles.</p>
+
+<p>For ordinary purposes the half-inch size of hose is the best. It costs
+less in the first place, is more easily handled,<!-- Page 45 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> and the wear and tear
+is much less than on the larger sizes.</p>
+
+<p>You never see a gardener using any spraying contrivance on the end of a
+hose. In his thumb and forefinger, which he skillfully moves over the
+flowing stream, he has a combination of sprayers that can produce the
+heaviest stream or the finest mist at will. This is to be recommended,
+but few will care to follow the course of training necessary to acquire
+the efficiency of the gardener.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 46 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>WEEDS AND OTHER PESTS</h2>
+
+<p>EVEN if you paid a thousand dollars a bushel for your grass seed, and
+then spent as much more on the preparation of your land, you could not,
+I am sorry to say, escape having weeds.</p>
+
+<p>The thing to do when you have them is to get rid of them, and this is
+accomplished only by getting right after them with a persistence
+proportionate to the abundance of the weeds. The knife is the only real
+weapon for this. After digging out your weeds, sow in grass seed with
+the idea of making the grass grow so thick that there will be no place
+for the weeds to creep in. Dandelions and plantains are simple matters
+that can be handled easily, but where Crab Grass<!-- Page 47 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> shows up, there is
+certainly work ahead to get the best of it. It is a destroyer of the
+first rank, a veritable pest. It is an annual that seeds itself each
+year and kills out under the first frost, leaving great bald spaces in
+the lawn to show where it has been. Even after it has been killed by the
+frost its baneful influence is not ended, for it has spread broadcast
+its seeds for the next year's crop.</p>
+
+<p>When you find it, dig it out. It means work and lots of it, but it is
+the only way to conquer it. Set the blades of the mower low, and after
+dragging the grass up with a rake, run the machine over it; and this
+should be done early in the year, before July. There is no weed to equal
+this as a nuisance.</p>
+
+<p>On newly-made lawns the weeds are easily removed, and they should be
+carefully watched so as not to allow them to<!-- Page 48 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> get too far ahead.
+Chickweed is almost as bad as Crab Grass, and when you find the
+combination, Crab Grass and Chickweed, the simplest solution is to spade
+or plow the place up in the fall and leave it exposed for the winter.</p>
+
+<p>For the broad-leaved varieties of weeds there is a preparation of what
+is called sand on the market that I have tried with very good success. I
+sprinkle it on the weeds and within an hour afterwards they have
+shriveled and turned black.</p>
+
+<p>While it doubtless is very efficient in destroying the top growth, I am
+unable to say that it is at all injurious to the roots, and may,
+perhaps, even stimulate them to renewed growth the following season.
+However, my experience with it was a happy one, for just as soon as the
+weeds died down I sowed in grass seed, which quickly germinated.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 405px;">
+<a name="weeds" id="weeds"></a>
+<img src="images/weeds.jpg" width="405" height="600" alt="" title="The Only Sure Way To Eradicate Weeds" />
+<span class="caption">There is only one sure way of eradicating weeds, and
+that is by cutting them out with a knife as soon as they appear. Delay
+in the attack will give them time to bring up heavy reinforcements</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 49 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Worms, Ants, and Moles</h3>
+
+<p>Very often earthworms become very disfiguring on a grass plot. Where
+there are many present it is an indication that the earth is in poor
+condition, compacted, and needing humus. An application of strong
+lime-water will drive many to the surface, where they can be swept up;
+or a heavy rolling with a 1,500-lb. roller will do much to discourage
+them.</p>
+
+<p>It is surprising how much damage a colony of ants can do on a lawn. They
+should be looked after the first time they are noticed, for they work
+rapidly, and the longer neglected the more difficult it is to
+eradicate them.</p>
+
+<p>There are many remedies recommended, but the best one lies in the use of
+bisulphide of carbon. This is very effective, but it has come into such
+common use<!-- Page 50 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> that a word of caution should be given as to its handling.
+It is very volatile and, when near flame, powerfully explosive, and
+should be handled with great care. Pour it into the runways of the ants,
+and then throw over these a mat. The fumes will speedily kill all the
+ants. A better way, however, is to drive a stick into the ground in
+several places where the colony is located, and in these holes pour the
+carbon, afterwards plugging the holes up tightly.</p>
+
+<p>Moles are frequently found on lawns, but they are not serious because
+they can be easily controlled by heavily rolling or by traps made to
+catch them. Where there is a suspicion of the presence of moles, no time
+should be lost in getting after them. They sometimes work for a long
+time before their destructive borings are evident, and then it will take
+much<!-- Page 51 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> labor to get ahead of them. Keep the heavy roller going as an
+excellent preventive. </p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
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@@ -0,0 +1,1285 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Lawn
+
+Author: Luke Joseph Doogue
+
+Release Date: October 27, 2008 [EBook #27066]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A LAWN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A LAWN
+
+
+
+
+_THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS_
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Lawn_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Tennis Court_; _Making a
+Garden Bloom This Year_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Roads and Paths_;
+_Making a Poultry House_; _Making a Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Rock Garden_; _Making
+a Water Garden_; _Making a Perennial Border_; _Making a Shrubbery
+Group_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with others to be announced
+later.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Lawn is probably the most important element in the
+setting for most country houses, yet all too frequently it is expected
+to make and take care of itself]
+
+
+
+
+MAKING
+A . LAWN .
+
+_By_ LUKE J. DOOGUE
+
+SUPERINTENDENT OF BOSTON PUBLIC GROUNDS DEPARTMENT
+
+[Decoration]
+
+NEW YORK
+McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+1912
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1912, by
+McBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+
+Published March, 1912
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                          PAGE
+
+  The Small Lawn, Old and New                1
+
+  The Treatment of Large Areas               8
+
+  Grass Seed                                13
+
+  Sowing the Seed                           24
+
+  Sodding                                   28
+
+  Good Loam and Fertilizers                 31
+
+  Lawn-mower, Roller, and Hose              37
+
+  Weeds and Other Pests                     46
+
+
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  The Lawn is an Important Element
+    in the Setting for a Country Place
+
+                                 _Frontispiece_
+
+                                        FACING
+                                          PAGE
+
+  A Path of Stepping-stones To Save
+    Labor in Mowing                          4
+
+  A Successful Covering of a Steeply
+    Sloping Bank                            14
+
+  Golf Course and Putting-green             20
+
+  The Result of a Cheap, Ready-made
+    Mixture of Grass Seed                   28
+
+  One of the Most Difficult Places
+    To Make a Lawn--Under Large
+    Shade Trees                             34
+
+  The Necessity for an Occasional
+    Cleaning of the Lawn-mower              40
+
+  The Only Sure Way To Eradicate
+    Weeds                                   48
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A LAWN
+
+
+
+
+Making a Lawn
+
+THE SMALL LAWN, OLD AND NEW
+
+
+To the thousands of anxious inquirers, seeking solution of lawn
+difficulties, it would be more than delightful to say that a fine lawn
+could be had by very hard wishing, but honesty compels one to change the
+words "hard wishing" to "hard work," in order to keep strictly within
+the truth. A well-made lawn is a testimonial to a hustler, whether the
+area is small or large.
+
+The majority of inquiries about lawn needs come from people having small
+places, from a few hundred to a few thousand feet, and the symptoms
+described can be divided into two classes: one where they want to make
+grass grow where it has never grown before, and the other where the call
+is for information to assist in restoring old lawns that have petered
+out. Let us take up the last condition first.
+
+Where grass has grown for some years it is conclusive evidence that
+there must be soil beneath, which, perhaps because of neglect, has
+ceased to supply the nourishment necessary to maintain the vigor of the
+sod growing upon it. As a consequence, weeds gradually creep in and
+finally crowd out every blade of grass.
+
+A condition like this is easily remedied and an improvement brought
+about in short order and at very small expense.
+
+In the first place make a general clearing up of the weeds and do it as
+thoroughly as possible. Take them out with a strong knife, cutting deep
+into the ground. An asparagus knife is the best for this purpose.
+
+If the place under treatment were to be spaded up, this weed-cleaning
+with the knife would not be necessary, but the object in this instance
+is to disturb the soil as little as possible.
+
+With the weeds out of the way, go over the whole place with a sharp rake
+and scratch the earth to the depth of half an inch. In doing this
+remember to be not too severe on spots where there is any grass growing,
+applying the rake lightly here. After the raking, sow grass seed thickly
+and evenly, raking it in, and finish by watering and rolling. Be sure to
+roll heavily, water regularly, and good results will surely come.
+
+This, in brief, is the most practical way to treat the conditions
+described.
+
+If, however, you should find that the ground shows patches of moss and
+sorrel, the treatment just suggested will not apply. The land is
+probably sour, and should be plowed up, limed, and allowed to lay rough
+all winter. Use about a bushel and a half of air-slaked lime to every
+thousand square feet.
+
+When the object is to make a lawn where there never has been one, the
+plow or the spade is the most effective weapon.
+
+It must be kept in mind that grass on a lawn is a great feeder, and no
+soil can be made too rich to supply its food requirements. A lawn is a
+permanent planting, not something that is to last merely for a season.
+
+[Illustration: Here is an interesting and ingenious scheme of getting a
+path over the lawn without increasing the labor of cutting. The
+stepping-stones are set flush with the ground]
+
+Start this work of preparation for a new lawn in the fall. Spade the
+land to the depth of two feet, or, better still, run a plow through it,
+if the size of the place warrants. Work in plenty of well-rotted
+manure, and during the winter the frost and snow will greatly improve
+conditions, killing the weeds, and mellowing the soil as nothing else
+can.
+
+In the spring, harrow and cross-harrow the plot, smooth out the surface,
+rake fine, and sow your seed. If, however, the soil is gravelly, there
+is no use trying to doctor it up with the expectation of getting good
+results.
+
+As has been said, you need a good loam in which to grow grass, so that
+if it is not good you must dig out what is there to the depth of two
+feet and replace it with suitable soil.
+
+There is no short-cut for reaching results with the aid of fertilizers,
+for all the chemicals in the land will amount to but little if the soil
+conditions are not proper to receive them.
+
+It is simply a question of supplying the material to get results.
+
+
+A NEW WAY TO RENOVATE A SMALL LAWN
+
+On a small place where the necessity for radical treatment is apparent,
+yet where it is not advisable to upset the premises at that particular
+time, results can be reached in a way that will be effectual.
+
+Take a round stick about an inch in diameter and three feet long, and
+sharpen one end of it. At frequent intervals about the grounds drive the
+stick to the depth of about two feet. Make many such holes, and into
+these ram a mixture of finely powdered manure, hardwood ashes, and bone
+meal. Cover the holes with loam, and on the top of each put a piece of
+sod and beat it down with the back of a spade.
+
+In a short time the good effects of this treatment will manifest
+themselves, and during the subsequent season the treatment can be
+extended to the parts not touched before. It practically means that the
+land will be as thoroughly renovated as if it had been plowed and
+harrowed. This is no fanciful idea, for the operation justifies results
+whenever tried. It is advisable to water liberally and regularly for
+some time.
+
+Of course this applies particularly to very small places, and nothing
+will be gained by treating large areas this way.
+
+Shrubs and trees are greatly benefited by this method of administering
+nourishment, and where old plants have grown for a long time and are
+seemingly stunted, this feeding will stimulate them to immediate
+growth.
+
+
+
+
+THE TREATMENT OF LARGE AREAS
+
+
+While it is a very simple matter to shape up a small grass plot,
+renovating it as to soil and all that is necessary to lay the foundation
+of a successful lawn, it becomes another matter when large areas are in
+question. Here it requires taste, experience, and familiarity with
+prevailing conditions to enable one successfully to get out of the
+problem all that there is in it. If we have not had the necessary
+experience, it would not be safe to venture upon doing the work without
+expert advice.
+
+Developing a large area means the making of a picture that, year in and
+year out, is to be before our eyes, and unless there is a most
+harmonious relation of all accessories--trees, contours, vistas, roads,
+and so on--there is sure to come a time of wearying monotony, caused by
+a realization of the fact that we had not been quite equal, through our
+lack of experience, to develop the place as it might have been
+developed.
+
+A piece of ground in the rough must first be shaped up by draining,
+removing trees or stones, planning roads and such things, before the
+smoothing process can be attempted, and it is in this roughing-out
+process where the future landscape picture is either made or destroyed.
+
+Here is where the professional landscape man can save you many dollars
+and much disappointment. I have seen so many sad results in cases of
+land development where too much confidence has been the stumbling-block
+on the road to success, that I feel justified in harping on the
+necessity of asking advice from those who are competent to give it.
+
+
+SAVING TREES
+
+Great consideration should be given to the matter of saving trees,
+whether these are large or small. Small trees can be handled like so
+much merchandise, and successfully moved from place to place. It is
+preferable to move these in winter. Dig about them so that there will be
+a ball of earth large enough to keep intact; then it is necessary merely
+to allow this ball to freeze up hard before tilting it onto a stone
+drag, shifting it and its fellows to positions that will most benefit
+the landscape.
+
+Large trees can be moved, but at considerable expense, and such work
+should be left to the professionals. They have the facilities and from
+experience the knowledge and knack of it, and this means much for
+success. Some companies will even give a bond to guarantee their work.
+
+Trees about which the grade is to be raised should be protected, so that
+the soil will not come within some distance of the trunk. A rough piling
+of stones about the tree, or a circle of drain pipe about it will give
+the needed protection. Trees play such a vital part in the adornment of
+a piece of land, whether large or small, that none that is needed should
+be sacrificed until every effort to save it has failed.
+
+
+DRAINING LAND
+
+Where the soil is soggy and retains too much moisture, this condition
+must be remedied before attempting to make it into a lawn. The remedy
+is found by draining, and this is done by digging ditches or laying
+tiles under ground at varying distances apart, all tending towards the
+lowest part of the land, to which the water must be induced to flow. The
+number of drains is to be determined by existing conditions.
+
+Land that could not be used before will, after a system of drainage has
+been installed, be so benefited that most anything can be grown upon it.
+Lawns made on such land are always luxuriant and resist the effect of
+drought even of long duration, drawing upon the supply of water that
+extends deep down below the surface.
+
+
+
+
+GRASS SEED
+
+
+So much has been written on the subject of lawn-making that about every
+one interested in this work is fully competent, theoretically at least,
+to carry through the process of land renovation and preparation, whether
+it be for a small lawn or an area consisting of acres. The subject along
+these lines has been exhaustively treated, but, strange to say, the
+equally important subject of grass seed has been rather neglected. While
+many amateurs can talk freely on the preparation of the land, they are
+not so confident when treating of grass seed. It seems strange that this
+is the case when so much depends on the suitability of the grass seed to
+the land for the making of a successful lawn. The only reason, as far
+as I can see, why people are not versed in this matter is that they have
+been frightened by the botanical names of grasses, which seem wholly
+unsuitable and too difficult of pronunciation for such commonplace
+things. There is, however, just as much individuality in a plant
+produced from a grass seed as in the choicest plant in a greenhouse. One
+kind of grass seed will produce a low-growing plant while another grows
+high; one wants a moist situation, another a dry one; some will
+germinate in the shade, others will not, and so on through the list. If
+a person knows each kind and its possibilities and requirements, he will
+be able to choose the grass best suited for his wants, and by careful
+trials arrange the mixtures with better success than the man in the
+wholesale house who is obliged to guess at what is best for his
+wants. Start out, then, in the primer class and tabulate some of the
+best grasses used for lawns, and tag them with both their names, the
+botanical and the common ones.
+
+[Illustration: For sloping banks and terracing, a mixture of Kentucky
+Blue, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent, Sheep Fescue and White Clover,
+in the proportions given, will probably answer]
+
+Kentucky Blue Grass--_Poa pratensis_. Fine for lawns; grows slowly but
+vigorously almost everywhere but on an acid soil.
+
+Red Top--_Agrostis vulgaris_. Shows results more quickly than Blue
+Grass; will thrive on a sandy soil; fine in combination with Blue Grass.
+
+English Rye Grass--_Lolium perenne_. Grows quickly and shows almost
+immediate results; good to combine with the slow-growing Blue Grass.
+
+Various-leaved Fescue--_Festuca heterophylla_. Good for shady and moist
+places.
+
+Rhode Island Bent--_Agrostis canina_. Has a creeping habit; good for
+putting-greens, sandy soils.
+
+Creeping Bent--_Agrostis stolonifera_. Creeping habit; good for sandy
+places and to bind banks or sloping places. Combined with Rhode Island
+Bent for putting-greens.
+
+Crested Dog's-tail--_Cynosurus cristatus_. Forms a low and compact
+sward; good for slopes and shady places.
+
+Wood Meadow Grass--_Poa nemoralis_. Good for shady places; is very
+hardy.
+
+Red Fescue--_Festuca rubra_. Thrives on poor soils and gravelly banks.
+
+White Clover--_Trifolium repens_. Good for slopes; not to be recommended
+for a lawn.
+
+Sheep Fescue--_Festuca ovina_. Good for light, dry soils.
+
+Now, with so much as a reference library, you will have sufficient
+knowledge of the kinds of seeds to draw from to make combinations that
+will fit any situation. I would further suggest that you go to a
+wholesale house and get a sample of each of these seeds and examine
+them. Get just a little of each in an envelope. Make a comparative
+examination of the seeds, holding a little in the palm of the hand. As
+you look at each seed repeat its name a few times and recall its
+characteristics, and you will be surprised to find that on the second or
+third trial every name will suggest itself the moment your eyes rest on
+the seed. With a knowledge of the seeds you can then go to your dealer
+and tell him what you want--not necessarily what he thinks you want. You
+are then a better judge than he is.
+
+It is worth while following the subject farther, for the results will
+more than repay the trouble. Test the seeds. Make shallow boxes and
+fill them with loam, and sow each kind of seed just as you would on a
+lawn. Put a label at the head of the box and on it the time of sowing
+the seed. Do this with as many as you can. Then watch and make notes of
+the time it takes for germination. Note also the character of the
+blades. Having finished this you will have a very liberal education in
+the subject of grass.
+
+Should you not care to do as suggested above, you will be dependent on
+others to get what you most need. If you should go to a dozen people and
+ask them to suggest a combination of seeds, they would all give them
+readily to you, but no two proportions would be alike. If you should ask
+for a single grass, the majority would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass. For
+a single grass there is nothing better suited for all conditions. There
+is this objection to it, however: it is not a nervous man's grass. You
+cannot plant it to-day and have a lawn next month. If you can afford to
+wait, sow Kentucky Blue and your patience will be well rewarded. It
+makes a permanent lawn.
+
+To introduce the ready-made lawn, use a combination of Kentucky Blue,
+Red Top, and English Rye. The Blue Grass is slow, but the Rye and Red
+Top produce speedier results. The first month will see the newly seeded
+space a carpet of green. In time the Rye passes, the Red Top continues
+to cover, while the Blue Grass grows sturdier each day until it crowds
+everything out by virtue of its own strength. Use 12 lbs. of Kentucky
+Blue Grass, 5 lbs. of Red Top and 3 lbs. of English Rye Grass to the
+bushel, and sow 3-1/2 to 4 bushels to the acre. This makes a reliable
+combination. It is common to hear people asking for grass that will grow
+in shady places, but it is always difficult to determine the degree of
+shade. A place may be shaded and yet suitable for growing grass, or it
+may be so shaded that no grass known could be made to germinate there.
+In places where there is no heavy dripping and where the ground is not
+absolutely dark, use the following:
+
+Kentucky Blue Grass, Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue, and
+Crested Dog's-tail. Use 35 per cent. of the first two and 15 per cent.
+of the last two.
+
+For conditions that require a quick-growing grass, and something that
+will bind and make a holding upon slopes under difficult conditions, the
+following is recommended: Kentucky Blue Grass, 30 per cent.; R. I. Bent,
+30 per cent.; Creeping Bent, 25 per cent.; Sheep Fescue, 10 per
+cent., and White Clover, 5 per cent. This is one of the places where
+White Clover is an essential. Under these conditions it fulfils its
+mission perfectly. While all the named kinds may not flourish, there
+will be enough to make the work successful.
+
+[Illustration: The turf on a putting-green or tennis court must be dense
+and low, as well as tough. Rhode Island Bent and Creeping Bent in
+combination are frequently used on a sandy soil to stunt the growth]
+
+The turf on a putting-green must be dense and low, and tough enough to
+stand a lot of rough usage. A combination of Rhode Island Bent and
+Creeping Bent is about the best thing for this purpose. To check up,
+just refer back to your schedule and see what it says regarding the
+qualities of these grasses.
+
+The soil on a putting-green should be of a sandy nature. This keeps the
+grass stunted through lack of much food, and consequently better fits it
+for its purpose.
+
+Never buy grass seed by the bushel. Buy it by weight, or stipulate that
+there shall be so many pounds to the bushel. It will cost you a high
+price, but it will be far cheaper in the end than to buy something
+inexpensive that has more than a third of sweepings and useless bulk.
+You certainly lose nothing by buying the very best seed that your dealer
+can offer you.
+
+Do not be ashamed to ask for samples before buying, and also get samples
+from a number of places and compare the different seeds. Spread them out
+in your hand and see if they are clean and without chaff. A seed with a
+large proportion of dust and chaff is not worth buying. It should be
+your consideration to see whether you are getting what you pay for. If
+you show evidences of knowing the proper seeds you will receive a most
+respectful hearing from the tradesman. Do not balk at the price of
+re-cleaned seed. It means that you are going to get something for your
+money. It is worth much more than the seed sold in bulk that is not
+re-cleaned.
+
+
+
+
+SOWING THE SEED
+
+
+The nearest thing, by way of comparison, to a lawn is a bed of plants
+that you set out in your garden every spring. When you think it is
+planting time you go to this bed with spade or fork and turn the earth
+up from the deep bottom, putting in plenty of well-rotted manure, thus
+ministering to the soil according to its needs. Then you set out the
+plants, and if weeds grow up you dig them out, after which you water the
+spot intelligently. For this labor your reward comes to you in the shape
+of an abundance of bloom and foliage.
+
+Just as truly is a lawn a bed of plants needing an equal amount of
+treatment. Grass is nothing but a collection of thousands of little
+plants crowded together, which must have nourishment, and from which the
+weeds must be taken. Likewise the soil must be given water as it is
+needed and the earth must be made mellow for the roots, to a good depth.
+It makes no difference how much you pay for your grass seed, how good or
+bad it is, or what kind of fertilizers you use, if the bed is not
+properly prepared in the first place. Without this fundamental
+preparation, grass plants will not grow, or if they do, will not thrive.
+
+It is quite a trick to sow grass seed evenly so that it will germinate
+without giving the plot a spotty effect. It should be spread at the rate
+of about three bushels to the acre, and this sowing can be successfully
+done only on a quiet day. Even a very light wind is liable to pile up
+your seed on your neighbor's lot or on your own in places not wanted.
+Keep the seed in a pail while sowing, and, after taking a handful, bend
+close to the soil and let the seed feed through the fingers as the arm
+swings back and forth in a semicircle. This is very much easier to say
+than to do, but a little experience will make one quite proficient. To
+help still more, sow the seed two ways, one at right angles to the
+other. After sowing, rake lightly and then finish the work by putting a
+heavy roller over it.
+
+While thick sowing has the advantage of discouraging a growth of weeds,
+there is a limit that cannot be safely passed. Seed too thickly sown
+will mat and damp out, leaving great patches on the lawn. Do not exceed
+the quantity suggested above.
+
+Spring sowing should be done just as soon as the frost is out of the
+ground. This early sowing gives the young grass a chance to establish
+itself before the severe summer heat comes on. Careful watering is
+necessary, with a fine spray, and if regularly done will induce rapid
+germination. In watering do not wash out the seed by too heavy a
+stream.
+
+
+
+
+SODDING
+
+
+Like seeding, sodding should be done in the early spring or fall to get
+the best results. Oftentimes it is necessary to do the work in midsummer
+and this, while not advisable, can be successfully accomplished if the
+sods are laid soon after they are cut and then copiously watered every
+day until all danger of drying out has passed.
+
+In butting the sods together, use a wooden mallet, and pound the sod
+into close contact with the loam beneath, flattening all joints so that
+the growth will be uniform.
+
+[Illustration: The inevitable result of sowing a cheap, ready-made
+mixture of grass seed. It is worth while studying the qualities of the
+various elements and making your own mixture]
+
+On large seeded areas outline these with a border of sods, which gives a
+well-defined edge and trim appearance to the work. If you should know
+of a place where there is a particularly fine growth of grass, it would
+be a paying proposition to buy sufficient sods from it to answer your
+needs. Sods, cut and delivered, will cost about eight cents per square
+foot. This price may be shaded somewhat if the sods are bought in bulk
+and the cutting and carting is done by yourself. Under any circumstances
+the work will be expensive.
+
+On banks and terraces it is preferable to use sods rather than seeding.
+The sods can be held in place with wooden pegs driven through them seven
+or eight inches into the bank. Over this work scatter some seed and give
+a light dressing of loam; then pound the whole to an even surface.
+
+When the bank is too steep to hold the sods pegged in this way, they
+should be piled upon each other horizontally, so that the ends will
+form the surface of the bank. This effects the double purpose of
+creating a permanent sward and also a depth of ten inches of loam upon
+which it can feed.
+
+
+
+
+GOOD LOAM AND FERTILIZERS
+
+
+Loam is scarce; that is, _good_ loam is scarce. To help make up the
+deficiency, every one should form a compost heap, and into it pile
+leaves, lawn rakings, pieces of sod, and all such matter, all of which
+will be reduced in time by decomposition to the much-desired humus. A
+small quantity of this humus, mixed with fairly good loam, will make
+good loam of it all, and suitable for sustaining plant life.
+
+In the fall, when the leaves are falling from the trees, it is a good
+idea to gather up from the gutters the accumulated leaves and put them
+in the compost heap. There may be a little expense and trouble to it,
+but there is no question as to the fact that you will be fully repaid
+when you find the necessity for some real loam.
+
+Near cities loam of very inferior quality will cost at least $2 per
+cubic yard, and if one has a quantity of leaf-mould, made as suggested,
+and will mix it with this loam, a very desirable quality can be
+produced. The leaf-mould is the life of the soil and absolutely
+essential to satisfactory results.
+
+
+SPRING TOP-DRESSING
+
+A lawn that has been properly made will not suffer if it is not given a
+yearly dressing, for it will have sufficient food supply in the ground
+to keep it going for years.
+
+Strange as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being given
+a heavy application of manure year after year. When a top-dressing is
+necessary on soil that is good, Canada hardwood ashes and bone meal will
+supply all the nourishment that is necessary. Spread the ashes thickly
+on the lawn until they show white on the grass, and do the work
+preferably before a rain, so that the nourishment may be washed into the
+soil.
+
+The Canada hardwood ashes, as usually found in the market, contain from
+one to five per cent. of potash, but to get the results you are looking
+for, the ashes should contain from seven to nine per cent. of potash. In
+purchasing this fertilizer in large quantities demand a guaranteed
+analysis, otherwise you are liable to get something little better than
+what you take out of your stove, and wholly useless for lawn purposes.
+There are good ashes on the market and they can be had if one goes after
+them vigorously enough and gives some indication of a knowledge of what
+good ashes are.
+
+When it is not possible to get what you are looking for, I would
+recommend mixing muriate of potash with finely sifted loam, and
+spreading it broadcast over the grass. This treatment is always
+efficacious, as you are absolutely sure of getting what is necessary for
+the land.
+
+
+MANURE TOP-DRESSING
+
+Many prefer to use a top-dressing of manure, regardless of conditions.
+It is sure to bring more or less weeds. If you decide to use it,
+however, get the thoroughly decomposed kind, as this means a minimum of
+weeds. I do not want to create the impression that I am trying to
+belittle the fertilizing value of manure. I believe in having a liberal
+quantity of it incorporated with the soil when the lawn is made, and
+I also believe that on such a soil Canada ashes and bone meal are very
+much more suitable to keep it up to pitch than is a top-dressing of
+manure.
+
+[Illustration: One of the most difficult places in which to make a lawn
+is under large shade trees. A combination of Kentucky Blue, Wood Meadow,
+Various-leaved Fescue and Crested Dog's-tail is usually successful]
+
+When manure is used for a top-dressing, do not get it on too thick, and
+do not leave it too long on the grass in the spring. Nothing is to be
+gained by either of these mistakes and much killing out is apt to
+result.
+
+There was a time, some years ago, when it was possible to buy sheep
+manure that was worth something, but at the present time it is sold in
+powder form, and invites a strong suspicion of adulteration and of
+containing very much more than what is being paid for. If it is possible
+for you to get good sheep manure, use that by all means. It is
+efficient, cleanly, and produces very few weeds. It is best used at the
+rate of about a ton to the acre.
+
+Nitrate of soda is a very vigorous stimulant and produces quick results.
+It is economical, requiring but small quantities to cover large areas.
+Spread broadcast, about 175 lbs. to the acre; or, dissolved, 3 lbs. to
+every 100 gals. of water. The dry application should be made always
+before a rainstorm, otherwise much burning is apt to result to the
+grass. For an occasional application it is all right to use this, but
+for year-in-and-year-out fertilizer, it should be alternated with other
+things.
+
+
+
+
+LAWN-MOWER, ROLLER, AND HOSE
+
+
+After you have your ground made, your seed sown and germinated, your
+trouble is not all over, for it is a critical period through which to
+carry the tender grass to a hardy condition.
+
+Young grass should not be cut before it is three inches high, and this
+means that a scythe should be used in preference to a lawn-mower, as it
+is difficult to get the blades high enough to allow this length. In
+cutting for the first time, try to do it on a cloudy day, as this will
+prevent any possibility of scorching or burning. After a few weeks the
+grass will have so toughened that it will be benefited by frequent
+cuttings--even twice a week.
+
+The roller should be used after every cutting, and although it may
+seemingly be working injury by crushing down the tender grass, it is in
+reality making sure a solid and compact sod. In the middle of the summer
+when the weather is very hot, be careful not to crop too close, as the
+roots are liable to be killed out by the sun.
+
+When cutting your grass you will find it a great saving to have some
+sort of a grass-catcher on your lawn-mower. One can be made easily, but
+very handy ones are sold at a small price. They prevent the wear and
+tear to a lawn that results from the hard raking necessary when not
+used.
+
+There is a good grass-catcher that fits into the back of all machines;
+it is very effective and costs about fifty cents. It so effectively
+catches all the grass that comes from the machine that little raking is
+afterwards necessary. If you prefer the rake it is best to use a wooden
+one, as iron teeth do great damage to a heavy sod.
+
+Where the grass is cut frequently the clippings may safely be left on
+the ground, but heavy grass should be always gathered up.
+
+
+THE LAWN-MOWER
+
+There are hundreds of makes of lawn-mowers on the market, but of these
+very few will stand the test of a season's hard usage. These few will be
+found to be the standard makes of good design, and costing a seemingly
+high price. When you can get a lawn-mower with a pound of tea you may be
+sure that it is time to be suspicious, regardless of the pretty paint
+and ornamentation that makes it a symphony of colors. A good mower
+means that your lawn will look well after being cut with it, and it also
+means that the first seemingly high cost will be all that you will be
+called upon to expend in years to come. Such a mower is practically
+indestructible.
+
+Once or twice during the season, give it an overhauling. Grass and grit
+will creep in, and unless it is removed the efficiency of the machine
+will be greatly reduced.
+
+It sounds like automobile parlance to say "Use good oil," but this
+really applies equally as strongly to a lawn-mower. Cheap oil is
+expensive in the long run, as it thickens up and clogs the bearings, and
+makes it impossible for the mower to do its best work.
+
+[Illustration: It is surprising what a lot of grass and dirt finds its
+way into the lawn-mower. Take it apart once a season to clean and oil]
+
+This may seem like straining a point to get down to such trivial
+details, but it is just these little things that go to make up the
+getting and keeping of a lawn.
+
+
+THE ROLLER
+
+Next to having good seed to sow, on properly prepared ground, the great
+essential in lawn-making is a proper kind of roller to use as occasion
+requires. Few people realize just how important a part a roller plays in
+the upkeep of any grass area, but it is no exaggeration to say that
+without one, successful results will be difficult if not impossible of
+achievement. Use a roller--a heavy roller--on your lawn early in the
+spring to repair the damage that the freezing and thawing has caused in
+the winter.
+
+The early rolling levels the surface, packs the earth about the grass
+roots and makes it possible for them to draw the moisture from deep down
+in the ground. A roller is to be used often, not once each season. Its
+consistent use means that you will have fewer weeds, thicker and better
+colored grass; the disfiguring moles will find the ground too difficult
+to burrow through, moisture will be retained longer, and a noticeably
+better condition will be noted throughout the whole lawn.
+
+The old-time stone roller was an instrument of torture, and almost
+wholly unsuited for lawn work as suggested. There are now on the market
+dozens of ball-bearing rollers that are very easily handled. The
+adjustable kind, in which there are compartments to hold either sand or
+water to vary the weight, is the kind that should be purchased. With it
+you have a roller light enough to use for seeding, or heavy enough for
+road work, and the prices are not prohibitive.
+
+
+THE HOSE
+
+The hose is a subject to which very little attention is given.
+Paradoxical as it may seem, all rubber hose is not rubber hose, and
+because of this many lawns suffer from want of water, because the
+supposedly rubber hose has proved, when most needed, to be a combination
+of paper and scrap. A first-quality hose will cost from twenty to thirty
+cents a foot--a frightful price when comparison is made to the bargain
+price of four cents a foot. The expensive kind will last for years, and
+even after it begins to show signs of wear it can be used many years
+longer by proper repairing. The cheap hose bursts once, and its
+usefulness is at an end, as the first burst is only a preliminary of
+total dissolution.
+
+When a good hose bursts it is best repaired by cutting entirely through
+it and removing the damaged part, and then joining the ends with a
+little brass sleeve that is easily inserted into each of the severed
+ends and which has reversed prongs to prevent its slipping out. This is
+one of the best ready-made menders on the market, and it prolongs the
+life of a hose for years.
+
+Keep your hose on a reel. Empty it of water before winding up, and never
+allow it to lie baking in the sun. This latter is a very common fault
+and is the cause of much good hose being spoiled.
+
+Another seemingly trivial yet important thing is to caution against so
+fastening the hose to the tap that it pulls away from it at
+right-angles.
+
+For ordinary purposes the half-inch size of hose is the best. It costs
+less in the first place, is more easily handled, and the wear and tear
+is much less than on the larger sizes.
+
+You never see a gardener using any spraying contrivance on the end of a
+hose. In his thumb and forefinger, which he skillfully moves over the
+flowing stream, he has a combination of sprayers that can produce the
+heaviest stream or the finest mist at will. This is to be recommended,
+but few will care to follow the course of training necessary to acquire
+the efficiency of the gardener.
+
+
+
+
+WEEDS AND OTHER PESTS
+
+
+Even if you paid a thousand dollars a bushel for your grass seed, and
+then spent as much more on the preparation of your land, you could not,
+I am sorry to say, escape having weeds.
+
+The thing to do when you have them is to get rid of them, and this is
+accomplished only by getting right after them with a persistence
+proportionate to the abundance of the weeds. The knife is the only real
+weapon for this. After digging out your weeds, sow in grass seed with
+the idea of making the grass grow so thick that there will be no place
+for the weeds to creep in. Dandelions and plantains are simple matters
+that can be handled easily, but where Crab Grass shows up, there is
+certainly work ahead to get the best of it. It is a destroyer of the
+first rank, a veritable pest. It is an annual that seeds itself each
+year and kills out under the first frost, leaving great bald spaces in
+the lawn to show where it has been. Even after it has been killed by the
+frost its baneful influence is not ended, for it has spread broadcast
+its seeds for the next year's crop.
+
+When you find it, dig it out. It means work and lots of it, but it is
+the only way to conquer it. Set the blades of the mower low, and after
+dragging the grass up with a rake, run the machine over it; and this
+should be done early in the year, before July. There is no weed to equal
+this as a nuisance.
+
+On newly-made lawns the weeds are easily removed, and they should be
+carefully watched so as not to allow them to get too far ahead.
+Chickweed is almost as bad as Crab Grass, and when you find the
+combination, Crab Grass and Chickweed, the simplest solution is to spade
+or plow the place up in the fall and leave it exposed for the winter.
+
+For the broad-leaved varieties of weeds there is a preparation of what
+is called sand on the market that I have tried with very good success. I
+sprinkle it on the weeds and within an hour afterwards they have
+shriveled and turned black.
+
+While it doubtless is very efficient in destroying the top growth, I am
+unable to say that it is at all injurious to the roots, and may,
+perhaps, even stimulate them to renewed growth the following season.
+However, my experience with it was a happy one, for just as soon as the
+weeds died down I sowed in grass seed, which quickly germinated.
+
+[Illustration: There is only one sure way of eradicating weeds, and that
+is by cutting them out with a knife as soon as they appear. Delay in the
+attack will give them time to bring up heavy reinforcements]
+
+
+WORMS, ANTS, AND MOLES
+
+Very often earthworms become very disfiguring on a grass plot. Where
+there are many present it is an indication that the earth is in poor
+condition, compacted, and needing humus. An application of strong
+lime-water will drive many to the surface, where they can be swept up;
+or a heavy rolling with a 1,500-lb. roller will do much to discourage
+them.
+
+It is surprising how much damage a colony of ants can do on a lawn. They
+should be looked after the first time they are noticed, for they work
+rapidly, and the longer neglected the more difficult it is to
+eradicate them.
+
+There are many remedies recommended, but the best one lies in the use of
+bisulphide of carbon. This is very effective, but it has come into such
+common use that a word of caution should be given as to its handling.
+It is very volatile and, when near flame, powerfully explosive, and
+should be handled with great care. Pour it into the runways of the ants,
+and then throw over these a mat. The fumes will speedily kill all the
+ants. A better way, however, is to drive a stick into the ground in
+several places where the colony is located, and in these holes pour the
+carbon, afterwards plugging the holes up tightly.
+
+Moles are frequently found on lawns, but they are not serious because
+they can be easily controlled by heavily rolling or by traps made to
+catch them. Where there is a suspicion of the presence of moles, no time
+should be lost in getting after them. They sometimes work for a long
+time before their destructive borings are evident, and then it will take
+much labor to get ahead of them. Keep the heavy roller going as an
+excellent preventive.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Lawn, by Luke Joseph Doogue
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