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diff --git a/26707.txt b/26707.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6215e54 --- /dev/null +++ b/26707.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2111 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Wanderings in the Orient + +Author: Albert M. Reese + +Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26707] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT *** + + + + + + + + + + + + + + WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT + + + BY + + ALBERT M. REESE + + + WITH SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS + + + CHICAGO LONDON + THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1919 + + + + + COPYRIGHT BY + THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1919 + + + PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +Foreword 5 + + I. Life in a Philippine Village 7 + + II. A Visit to Tay Tay 18 + + III. The Leper Colony of Culion 24 + + IV. From Zamboanga to Singapore 29 + + V. Singapore, the Melting Pot of the East 42 + + VI. How Rubber Is Made 53 + + VII. Two Chinese Cities 58 + +VIII. Meanderings in Modern Manila 69 + + IX. A Pacific Paradise, Honolulu 77 + + + + +FOREWORD. + + +To most Americans, "going abroad" means visiting Europe. Since European +travel will doubtless be unsatisfactory for some years to come, the +globetrotter may well turn his attention to the Far East which, while +not so accessible, is after all easily reached if the cost be not +prohibitive; and the ubiquitous Cook is nearly always on hand to help +the traveler out of difficulties. + +The trip across the Pacific is of course a long one, but the journey is +interrupted, before the end of the first week, by a stop at that +tropical paradise, the Hawaiian Islands. + +If one should need a complete rest, this seven thousand mile voyage is +just the thing. If he desire he may read or study to good advantage. If +inclined to sea-sickness there is plenty of time to recover and still +enjoy the greater part of the journey. While the distances between +stopping places are often great one feels that he can "do" a place in +much less time than it would take in Europe, where objects of historic +and other interest are so crowded together. If interested in the work of +foreign missions abundant opportunity offers for their study at first +hand. + +It was chiefly during these journeys between stopping places that the +following sketches were written, as a sort of diary or log, illustrated +by photographs taken by the writer. + +On a beautiful morning in May the U. S. Army Transport "Sherman," after +a voyage of twenty-eight days from San Francisco, tied up at the dock in +Manila. The regular lines make the trip in much less time than the +leisurely transports, but the writer, as a representative of the +Smithsonian Institution, was furnished passage on the government vessel. +With Manila as headquarters, collecting trips were made to various +regions roundabout. Some of these places are described in the following +chapters. + +Finally, upon one of the inter-island transports, a trip to the +southernmost islands of the Philippine group was made, ending at +Zamboanga, where the North German Lloyd steamer was taken for Singapore, +via Borneo. From Singapore a four days' trip, without stop, brought us +to Hongkong; whence, after seeing that place and the nearby city of +Canton, a two days' trip brought us again to Manila. It is the various +places visited in this more or less out-of-the-way circuit that are +described in the remaining chapters. + + A. M. R. + + MORGANTOWN, W. VA. + + + + +I. LIFE IN A PHILIPPINE VILLAGE. + + +The little village or _barrio_ of Mariveles is situated just inside the +narrow cape that forms the northern border of the entrance to Manila +Bay. The city of Manila lies out of sight, thirty miles to the +southeast, but the island of Corregidor lies only seven miles to the +south, and the great searchlights at night are quite dazzling when +turned directly upon the village. A large amount of money has recently +been spent in fortifying Corregidor until it is now considered +practically impregnable. + +The village extends for about half a mile close along the beach and is +flanked, on the west, by the buildings of a United States quarantine +station. + +Arriving by a very dilapidated launch from Manila I waited at the +government dock while the native boy I had brought with me went to the +village to find, if possible, a vacant house. He soon returned, with +another boy to help carry our baggage, (there was not a cart or wagon of +any sort in the place) and with the information that he had engaged a +house for our use. A whole house for two people sounded rather +formidable but as this house contained only two rooms its rental was not +as extravagant as might have been imagined. It was located on the main +thoroughfare which had the very American name of Washington Street. Like +the typical native house, our Washington Street mansion was built +chiefly of bamboo and _nipa_ palm, with a few heavier timbers in the +framework. Upon the main timbers of the frame was built a sort of +lattice of split bamboo, upon which in turn was sewed, shinglewise, +close layers of nipa palm that are quite impervious to rain, are fairly +durable, and are very inflammable. The _people's_ floor was elevated +four or five feet above the ground, thereby securing not only air and +dryness for the people above, but also providing a very convenient +chicken-coop and pig-pen beneath. The floor was made of split bamboo +which made sweeping easy--merely a matter of pushing the dirt +through the cracks between the strips of bamboo. + +[Illustration: MARIVELES VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN, FROM MANILA BAY.] + +Although the smell of even a _clean_ pig under the dining-room table is +rather objectionable at first, as is the crowing of two or three +roosters early in the morning, it is surprising how soon one becomes +accustomed to these little annoyances, and it simplifies domestic +science considerably to be able to throw, from one's seat at table, +banana skins and other scraps through a convenient hole in the floor and +have them immediately disposed of by the pig and chickens beneath. + +[Illustration: OUR RESIDENCE ON "WASHINGTON STREET."] + +The dining room, as in many American houses, also served as a kitchen. +The stove was a large box, elevated two or three feet from the floor, +lined with baked clay upon which the fire is made. Large iron spikes, +arranged in groups of three, may be imbedded in the clay to hold one or +more pots of different sizes. There was no chimney, but a convenient +window carried out the smoke quite effectively. The fire-wood was stored +under the house in the pig-pen and consisted chiefly of short sticks of +such diameter as could be easily cut with the large knife or bolo that +the natives wear suspended from a belt at the waist. The sticks, when +the cooking is done, are simply withdrawn from beneath the pot and lie +ready to be pushed in again when the fire is lit for the next meal. A +very few sticks will thus serve for cooking a large number of the simple +native meals. Opening from the kitchen was the front door, leading to +the ground by a flight of stairs or a ladder. Thanks to the United +States Mariveles is supplied with abundant water, piped from some miles +up in the mountains, and some of the better houses of the barrio have a +private faucet on the back porch, which is luxury indeed. The main room +of the house was used as a living room and bedroom. In such houses there +are usually large windows, without sash of course, which are shaded by +day and closed by night and in severe storms by a hinged awning of nipa, +seen in the photographs. In spite of the warmth nearly all natives close +the window shades tight when they sleep, so that, in spite of the +numerous cracks, the ventilation must be very bad; this may partly +account for the prevalence of tuberculosis on the islands. + +[Illustration: NATIVE GIRL CARRYING BASKET OF CLOTHES.] + +Around the better houses in such a barrio is usually seen a high fence +generally made of closely set vertical saplings, driven into the ground +and bound together with rattan at the top; this fence serves to keep +the chickens in, and, at night, to keep prowling animals out. + +Many of the houses have a tiny store at the ground level in which a +small stock of canned goods, native fruits, dried fish, native shoes +etc. may be seen. One of the main department stores of Mariveles is +shown in the accompanying photograph, with the very American sign at the +side of the entrance. + +[Illustration: THE CHIEF STORE OF MARIVELES.] + +Like many native villages Mariveles has a large stone church, with red +tile roof, bell tower, etc.; it is now in such bad repair as to be +unsafe, so that a crude shed with thatched sides and corrugated iron +roof has been built to take its place. No priest now lives in this +barrio and the shed-like church did not have the appearance of being +much used. + +The village school, on the other hand, gave every indication of +activity. Although not housed in a very handsome building, a glance +through the windows and door showed many students of various ages all +apparently busy and orderly under the supervision of several neat and +bright looking native women. + +On the same street with the school a link with the outside world was +seen in the sign "Telegraph and Post Office." This office was in charge +of a native who, unlike most of the residents of the barrio, spoke +English. In these villages it is usually easy to find natives who speak +Spanish, but it is frequently difficult to find one who understands +English. + +[Illustration: THE OLD CHURCH.] + +The men of the village were mostly engaged, though not very strenuously, +in the rice paddies or in fishing. The women looked after the +housekeeping, washing, tending the stores, etc., and their position of +respect and authority in the homes and in society was in marked contrast +to that of other oriental and even of some European women. + +[Illustration: THE MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL.] + +A tiny store across the street from where we lived was tended during +most of the day and in the evenings by an attractive young native woman +who seemed to be quite a belle. Every evening, at about dark, a dapper +young native, in an American suit of white, always appeared and seated +himself upon the bench in front of the store, where he could see and +talk to his brunette lady love without interfering with her commercial +duties, which were not heavy. Often several other suitors appeared and, +while it was not possible to understand what was said, since +the conversation was all in Tagalog, from the frequent laughter it was +evident that the girl was as able to entertain several admirers at once +as are some of her blond sisters across the sea. Her voice was softer +and her laugh more attractive than that of many an American belle of +high social standing. In fact the women of this island village were, as +a class, of remarkable dignity and modesty, so that there was probably +less to shock one's modesty here than at many a fashionable American +watering place. Of course ignorance of their language made it impossible +to understand all that was going on, but to judge by their actions and +the tones of their voices it would seem that their family life is as +peaceful and happy as that of the average American family. It is truly +the "simple life" that they lead, and to us it seems a very narrow one; +yet it has its advantages over the "strenuous life" that most of us are +compelled to live. There was little or no drunkenness or quarreling +among the men, whose chief vice seemed to be gambling. + +[Illustration: THE TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE.] + +This gambling instinct is gratified mainly by means of the cockpit. One +of the most familiar sights of the islands is the native man with a +game cock or just a plain rooster under his arm. They pet and fondle +these birds as we do cats or lap-dogs, and on Sundays (alas!) they +gather at the cockpits to match their favorites against each other. Many +barrios have large covered pits seating hundreds of people. The pit of +Mariveles, which happened to be in the yard next to ours, was simply a +square of about twenty feet enclosed by a low bamboo fence, in the shade +of a huge acacia tree. Around this square were gathered about one +hundred men (probably all of the men of the barrio) and two or three +women, and we shall hope that the few women who were there to witness so +unpleasant a spectacle were looking after their husbands to see that +they did not bet too heavily. + +[Illustration: NATIVE "BANCA" NEAR MARIVELES.] + +Inside the square were two or three officials, and two men holding the +two contesting birds. A man at a table outside held the stakes and +presumably kept track of the bettors, odds, etc. Instead of the weapons +provided by nature each bird had securely fastened to his left leg, +in place of the spur that had been cut off, a villainously sharp +steel spur, slightly curved and about three inches long. A well +directed thrust from this steel weapon may kill the victim almost +instantly, and one victim was already hanging head-down to a near-by +tree when I entered. + +[Illustration: A SCHOOLHOUSE IN ILOILO.] + +While the bets were being arranged each bird was held, in turn, to let +the other peck him ferociously, probably with the idea of making them +mad enough to fight. When the bets were all arranged the birds were +placed on the ground facing each other, and with lowered heads and neck +feathers erected they dashed together like tigers, jumping high over +each other and endeavoring to stab one another with their artificial +weapons. In the one fight witnessed (and one was enough to learn the +ways of the cockpit) both birds were soon bleeding profusely and had +lost their desire to fight, so that the crowd called out some word and +the cocks were picked up and "sicked" on each other again; this was +repeated until one bird had enough and retreated ignominiously to the +farthest corner of the pit, amid the shouts of the men who had bet on +the other cock. In many cases, it is said, the vanquished bird is killed +outright before he has time to retreat. + +The sport, while rather exciting, is certainly demoralizing, especially +with the betting that always accompanies it. + +Such is the life of these simple people. Of course among the less +civilized and the savage tribes conditions are very different, and a +white man would not dare enter so intimately into the life of a barrio; +in fact in some regions it is very unsafe to go outside of the army +posts without a proper guard. + +As to the character of the civilized Filipinos opinion seems to differ +among the Americans of the Islands. That they are not yet capable of +self-government seems to be almost universally believed by Americans who +have lived among them; and that they are not energetic as a class is +only what might be expected in such a climate. Some Americans have a +rather high opinion of the moral character and general trustworthiness +of the average native; others do not hold such a high opinion of him and +consider him the inferior of the American negro, mentally, morally and +physically. As students in the University of the Philippines it is said +they compare favorably with students in American universities. + +Doubtless there is as much variation, mental and moral, among the +natives of the Philippine Islands as among the inhabitants of an +Anglo-Saxon country, so that one's opinions are apt to be influenced +by the class of natives with which he chiefly comes in contact. + + + + +II. A VISIT TO TAY TAY. + + +The cutter _Busuanga_ of the Philippine Bureau of Navigation had been +chartered to go to Tay Tay on the Island of Palawan, to bring back to +Manila the party of naturalists of the Bureau of Science who had been +studying the little-known fauna and flora of that far-away island, the +most westerly of the Philippine group. + +[Illustration: VILLAGE OF TAY TAY FROM THE HARBOR.] + +After leaving the dock at Manila at sundown we steamed out of the bay, +past the searchlights of Corregidor and the other forts which were +sweeping entirely across the entrance to the bay in a way that would +immediately expose any enemy that might attempt to slip by in the dark, +and by nine o'clock we were headed in a south-westerly direction across +the China Sea. + +The next day we passed through winding passages along the Calamaines +group where every hour brought to view new islands of the greatest +beauty and of every size and shape. Upon one of these islands is a leper +colony which we visited and found most interesting. + +[Illustration: TWO PROMINENT HOUSES IN TAY TAY.] + +Early on the second morning we entered the harbor of the small but +ancient village of Tay Tay (pronounced "tie tie" and spelled in various +ways) on the eastern shore of Palawan. Not a white man lives in this +inaccessible hamlet and it is seldom that one visits it, as there is no +regular communication of any sort with the outside world. + +The village consists of a dozen or two native huts along the beach in a +very pretty grove of coconut trees. Back of the village is a range of +low mountains covered with tropical jungle. The main point of interest +is a well constructed fort of stone, built on a small promontory that +projects out into the bay. The walls of the fort are very massive and +are surmounted at each of the four corners by a round watch tower. On +its land side the fort is entered through a narrow gate that leads by a +stone stairway to the top of the promontory. On various parts of the +walls are carvings and inscriptions showing that the different bastions +were built at different times. + +[Illustration: THE SPANISH FORT AT TAY TAY.] + +Within the fort and overlooking the walls is an old stone church whose +roof has long since fallen in. Within the fort is also a large +cement-lined, stone cistern to hold water in case of siege. The Spanish +inscriptions on the walls show that the fort was begun about 1720, +though the mission there was established about 1620. Lying about within +the fort are a few large iron cannon that were doubtless used by the +Spaniards in repulsing the attacks of the Moro pirates. It was for a +refuge from these pirates that this old fort was built nearly two +hundred years ago in this tiny, reef-protected harbor, on an island that +even now is unknown to a large majority of American people although it +is a part of our territory. + +On the shore, just back of the fort, is another stone church whose roof +has also fallen in; and back of this church is a small thatched bell +tower with two very good bells of harmonious tones hanging in it. How +long these bells have been silent it is difficult to say, but no priest +now remains to carry on the work begun nearly three hundred years ago by +the brave padres from Spain, and not a Spaniard now lives in that almost +forgotten village. But for the moss-covered and still massive gray walls +of the fort and the crumbling ruins of the two churches one would never +imagine that this tiny village of brown men had ever been inhabited by +subjects of the kingdom of Spain. + +[Illustration: CHURCH WITHIN THE FORT.] + +In passing out of the harbor of Tay Tay we visited a small volcanic +island of curiously weathered and water-worn limestone. Except for a +narrow beach the sides of this island are almost perpendicular, and the +cliffs are honeycombed with dozens of water-worn caves. Many of these +caves are of great beauty, resembling the interiors of stone churches; +some extend far back into the dark interior of the island, others are +lighted by openings at the top. Many of them are beautifully colored, +and in an accessible region would doubtless be frequently visited by +tourists, while in their isolated location it is possible that they had +never before been visited by white men, unless in the old Spanish days. +It is in these and in similar caves of this region that the natives +obtain the edible birds' nests so highly prized by some, especially the +Chinese. The natives are said to have claims on certain caves, and any +one found stealing nests from another man's cave is supposedly dealt +with as a thief. + +[Illustration: BELL-TOWER OF THE CHURCH OUTSIDE OF THE FORT.] + +These curious nests are built by swifts (swallows) against the walls of +the dark caves much in the some way as is done by our common chimney +swifts, except that instead of cementing a number of small twigs +together by a kind of sticky secretion or saliva, the entire nest is +made of the sticky substance which dries into a sort of gummy mass. This +substance has but little taste, and why the wealthy Chinese should be +willing to pay such enormous prices ($12 to $15 per pound) for it is +hard to understand. + +It is said that the first nest the bird makes in the season brings the +highest price because it is of pure material; this nest having been +taken the bird builds another, but, having a diminished supply of the +secretion, it introduces some foreign matter to help out, and this +foreign matter, of course, makes the nest less valuable as food. A third +nest may succeed the second, but it has still more foreign matter to +still further diminish its value. That the collection of the nests is +attended with considerable danger is evident from the vertical, jagged +walls of rock that must be scaled, either from below or above, to obtain +them. + +[Illustration: ISLAND NEAR TAY TAY WHERE EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS ARE FOUND.] + +To those of us who lead busy lives in the centers of what we call +twentieth-century civilization, life in a place so isolated from the +rest of the world as Tay Tay seems impossible. Yet the inhabitants of +this barrio are quite contented and fairly comfortable. They live "the +simple life" indeed. While their resources are exceedingly limited their +needs and desires are correspondingly few. They never suffer from cold +and probably not often from heat or hunger: and they are not cursed with +the ambitions that make so many of us dissatisfied with our lives. + + + + +III. THE LEPER COLONY OF CULION. + + +It was early Sunday morning when the "Busuanga" dropped anchor in the +harbor of Culion Island, one of the Calamaines group of the Philippines, +and two or three of us were fortunate enough to be invited to land, for +an hour or so, to visit the leper colony that is said to be the largest +in the world. + +We were met at the tiny dock by the physician-in-charge, Dr. Clements, +and by him escorted about the colony. This physician, who has spent long +years in these eastern lands, gives the immediate impression of a man of +quiet force, and the work he is doing in this seldom-visited island is +as fine a piece of missionary work, though carried on by the government, +as can probably be found anywhere. + +Including the dock a few acres of the island are fenced off, and into +this enclosure the lepers are forbidden to enter; otherwise they have +the run of the island, but are not allowed boats for fear they would be +used as a means of escape. + +Within the non-leprous enclosure are located the residences for the +doctors and other officials; the living quarters, kitchens etc. (all of +concrete) for the non-leprous laborers; and various shops and other such +buildings. + +At the "dead line" fence between this and the leprous part of the island +a Chinaman has a small store where the lepers can buy various articles +such as may be seen in a small country store. The articles are in plain +sight, but the leper is not allowed to touch anything until he has +decided to take it; he then drops his money into a sterilizing solution +and gets his purchase. A more modern store is being arranged by the +government that will soon displace the _Chino_. + +Passing this minute store we entered the gate of the "forbidden city," +and, though there is no danger from merely breathing the same air with +lepers, it gave us a rather strange sensation to be surrounded by +thirty-four hundred poor wretches who in Biblical times would have been +compelled to cry "Unclean! unclean!" We, of course, did not touch +anything within the colony, though the doctors do not hesitate to touch +even the lepers themselves. + +The colony proper is located on a small promontory looking eastward to +the harbor and the Sulu Sea. At the end of this promontory is an old +Spanish fort of stone with its enclosed church. Most of the Christian +lepers are Roman Catholics, though there is a small Protestant church in +the colony, in charge of a leprous native minister. + +[Illustration: DOCTORS' RESIDENCES AND OTHER BUILDINGS OUTSIDE OF THE +COLONY FENCE.] + +The lepers are brought from the various islands of the Philippines to +this colony so fast that it is with great difficulty that they can be +accommodated; but all are made comfortable, in fact much more +comfortable, in most cases, than they would ever have been at home. +Except for homesickness, which cannot, of course, be avoided, they are +quite happy, or as happy as any hopelessly sick people can be away from +home and friends. + +Fine concrete dormitories are supplied, but many prefer to build their +own native houses of nipa palm and bamboo. A certain amount of help is +given the lepers in building these houses on condition that they first +obtain a permit and build in the proper place in relation to the streets +that have been laid out. + +Besides the dormitories there are several concrete kitchen buildings +where the lepers can prepare their food in comfort. + +A plentiful supply of pure water is distributed by pipes to various +convenient parts of the colony, and several concrete bath and wash +houses are conveniently located. A concrete sewage system leads all +sewage to the sea. + +[Illustration: CONCRETE DORMITORY AND NATIVE SHACKS.] + +In this tropical climate it is, of course, unnecessary to provide any +means of heating the buildings. At the time of our visit a large +amusement pavilion was nearly completed where moving pictures and other +forms of entertainment will help pass the time for these poor wretches +who have nothing to look forward to but a lingering death from a +loathsome disease. + +A large number of the patients who are in the incipient stages showed, +to the ordinary observer, no effects of the disease. There were others +who at first glance seemed perfectly normal, but on closer scrutiny +revealed the absence of one or more toes or fingers. Others had horribly +swollen ears: some had no nose left and were distressing objects; but +it was not until we visited the various wards of the hospital that we +saw leprosy in all of its horror. Here were dozens of cases so far +advanced that they were no longer able to walk; they were lying on their +cots waiting for death to come to their release. Some were so emaciated +as to look almost like animated skeletons. Others, except for and +sometimes in spite of their bandages, looked like horrid, partially +decomposed cadavers. It was a sight to make one shudder and devoutly +hope that a cure for this awful disease may soon be discovered. These +extreme cases are cared for carefully and their last hours are made as +comfortable as possible. + +[Illustration: CONCRETE KITCHEN AND LAVATORY BUILDINGS AND NATIVE +RESIDENCES.] + +As we came, out three Catholic sisters entered the women's ward to do +what they could for the patients there. + +Shortly before leaving the colony we were led to a small concrete +structure (near the furnace where all combustible waste is burned), and +as the door was opened we saw before us on a concrete slab four bodies +so wasted and shrivelled that they seemed scarcely human. These were +those who had at last been cured in the only way that this dread +disease admits of cure. About forty per month are released by death, and +those we saw were the last crop of the here _merciful_ not "dread +reaper." + +At the back of the colony we met four lepers of incipient stages +carrying a long box on their shoulders. Just as they came abreast of us +they set it down, to rest themselves, and we saw that in the box was +another "cured" leper. He was being carried to the cemetery not only +"unhonored and unsung" but also "unwept": not a single friend nor +relative followed his wasted body to its final resting place. After this +pitiful spectacle, added to the horrors of the hospital wards, we were +not sorry to turn our steps back toward the boat. As we passed through +the fence at the "dead line," going away from the colony, we were +compelled to wade through a shallow box of water containing a small +percentage of carbolic acid which disinfected the soles of our shoes, +the only things about us that had come in actual contact with the leper +colony. In this way all visitors when they leave the colony are +compelled, not to "shake its dust from their feet" but to wash its germs +from their soles. + +As an antidote for dissatisfaction with one's lot in life, or as an +object lesson for the pessimists who claim there is no unselfishness in +the world, or as an illustration of the value of the medical missionary, +this little island, lying "somewhere east of Suez" between the Sulu and +the China Seas, is not easily surpassed. + + + + +IV. FROM ZAMBOANGA TO SINGAPORE. + + +When the North German Lloyd steamer "Sandakan" left the dock at +Zamboanga she had in the first cabin only three passengers, a Russian of +uncertain occupation, a young lieutenant of the Philippine constabulary, +and myself. We had, therefore, the pick of the deck staterooms, which is +worth while when traveling within ten degrees of the equator in +mid-summer. + +Zamboanga is the chief city of the island of Mindanao and is the capital +of the turbulent Moro province, which includes the well-known island of +Sulu with its once-famous sultan. + +After a night's run we tied up at the dock of Jolo, the chief town of +the island of Sulu. Here my two companions left the ship, so that until +we reached the next port, Sandakan, I was the only cabin passenger, and +when the ship's officers were prevented by their duties from appearing +at the table I had the undivided attention of the chief steward, two +cooks, and three waiters. This line of vessels being primarily for +freight the "Sandakan" has accommodations for less than twenty +first-cabin passengers, and it probably seldom has anything like a full +list on this out-of-the-way run from "Zambo" to Singapore. So far as its +accommodations go, however, they are excellent, and a pleasanter trip of +a week or ten days would be hard to find, in spite of the tropical heat. + +While the first cabin list was so small, the third class accommodations +seemed taxed to their utmost, and the conglomeration of orientals was an +unending source of amusement. They slept all over their deck and +appeared happy and comfortable in spite of the fact that they seemed +never to remove their clothes nor to bathe; it is probable that to most +of them ten days without such luxuries was not a noticeable deprivation. + +Leaving Jolo, a picturesque walled city with a reputation for dangerous +Moros (one is not supposed to go outside the walls without an armed +guard, and many men carry a "45" at their hip at all times), we sailed +southwest through the countless islands of the Sulu Archipelago, and +after a run of about twenty hours passed the high red cliff at the +entrance to the harbor of Sandakan, the capital of British North Borneo, +and were soon alongside the dock. + +Sandakan is a rather pretty little town of two or three thousand +inhabitants, including about fifty white people. It extends along the +shore for about a mile and in the center has the athletic or recreation +field, that is found in all these little towns, as well as the post +office and other government buildings. In this central part of the town +are also the Chinese stores, usually dirty, ill-smelling and +unattractive; but there are no others. In all this region the Chinese +seem to have a complete monopoly of the commercial business. + +[Illustration: THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN.] + +A hundred yards or more from the shore the hills rise steeply from +sea-level to a few hundred feet, and over these hills are scattered the +attractive bungalows of the white residents. There is also here a +handsome stone church, overlooking the bay, with a school for native +boys in connection with it. The hills farther from the town are heavily +wooded, and the timber is being sawed at mills along the shore road. On +the streets are seen men of several nationalities, Chinese, Malays, +Moros, East Indians, and occasionally a Caucasian in his customary white +suit and pith helmet; but of all these the most dignified and stately is +the Indian policeman. He is tall and slender, with frequently a fine +black beard; his head is covered with the usual white turban, set off +with a touch of red. His gray spiral puttees generally do not quite +reach the bottom of his khaki trousers, thus leaving his knees bare. +Hanging from his belt is his club, similar to those carried by American +policemen, and jangling in one hand is usually a pair of steel +handcuffs. In passing white men he often raises his hand in a formal +military salute that would be worthy of a major general. Altogether he +is a most impressive personage and, with such examples constantly before +them, it would seem incredible that the citizens should ever cause +a-disturbance. An interesting contrast was seen in a group of men, +sitting idly in the shade and watching eight little Chinese women +stagger by with a huge tree trunk that would seem too heavy for an equal +number of strong men to carry: but this is "East of Suez, where the best +is like the worst," whatever Kipling meant by that. + +[Illustration: SANDAKAN FROM THE HILL. + +The "Sandakan" at the Dock.] + +At Sandakan the first cabin passenger list was increased 100 per cent by +the advent of a young Danish rubber man--not a man made of young +Danish rubber, but a young Dane from Singapore who had been inspecting +rubber plantations, of which there are many on Borneo. + +[Illustration: BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN.] + +Leaving the capital city at sunset we arrived at Kudat, our next +stopping place, early the next morning. With a very similar location +this is a much smaller town than the preceding, consisting of four or +five hundred people including half a dozen Caucasians. In spite of its +small size it has a small garrison of native soldiers and the inevitable +recreation ground. Besides this there is here a race track at which a +meet was about to be held. Attracted probably by the races was the +ubiquitous moving picture show, set up in a tent near the race track. It +is impossible to escape the "movies." I attended a moving picture +exhibition given in the cockpit of a small Philippine village about +fifty miles out from Manila, and here was another in a still smaller +village on the Island of Borneo, hundreds of miles from _anywhere_. In +the same way it is impossible to escape the voice of the phonograph. On +several occasions I have heard them in tiny nipa shacks in small +Philippine villages, and in a Moro shack in Kudat, built on poles above +the water, I heard the sound of what seemed a very good phonograph of +some sort. + +[Illustration: CHINESE WOMEN CARRYING LOG, SANDAKAN.] + +In the northeast corner of Borneo is its highest mountain, Kini or Kina +Balu, the Chinese Widow, supposedly so named because of the fancied +resemblance of its jagged top to the upturned face of a woman. It is +really a very impressive peak and, being seen from the sea, it looks its +full height of nearly fourteen thousand feet; being exactly under the +sixth parallel it is, of course, too close to the equator to be +snow-capped. Its position near the coast enabled us to enjoy it as we +approached the island from the northeast and as we passed around and +down the west coast, so that it was visible for nearly three days. Other +mountain peaks of five or six thousand feet are visible along the west +coast but they appear insignificant in comparison with old Kini Balu. + +[Illustration: CHINO CARRIER, SANDAKAN.] + +[Illustration: RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT. + +Movie tent in the left background.] + +Leaving Kudat in the evening we arrived at Jesselton the following +morning. This is a town of about the same size and character of location +as Kudat, but as the northern terminus of the only railroad on the +island it seems much more of a metropolis. It has a clock-tower, too, +the pride of every Jesseltonian heart, located in plain view of +the railroad station so that there is no excuse for the trains leaving +Jesselton more than two or three hours late. There is here again the +recreation field and market house, and, of course, the usual Chinese +stores and Indian policemen; besides this it is the home town of the +Governor (an Englishman, of course) of British North Borneo. But the +railroad is the chief feature of Jesselton. To be sure it is only a +narrow gauge, but it carries people, if they are not in too big a hurry, +and freight. The engines are of English type but the cars +are--original, surely. There are first and third class passenger +coaches, no second class, to say nothing of a baggage "van." The third +class cars have simply a rough wooden bench along each side and seat +about twenty people. The first class cars are of two types: the first is +like the third class with the addition of cushions to the seats and +curtains to the windows; the second kind is a sort of Pullman car; it is +of the same size, but instead of the benches it has about half a dozen +wicker chairs that may be moved about at will. + +[Illustration: MORO SHACKS AT KUDAT. + +In one of these a phonograph was heard.] + +Having a few hours to spare I decided to take a ride into the country. I +had already climbed one of the hills where I could get a view inland to +Kini Balu, over miles of jungle where no white man has ever been. But I +wanted to see a little of this country, from the car-window at least. So +I entered the station and interviewed the station master, a portly +official of great dignity. He told me, in fair English, that the train +on the "main line" had left for that day but that I could take a "local" +out into the country for about three miles. This was better than +nothing, so I climbed (and climb is the proper word) aboard the first +class car of the local that was soon to start. I was the only +first-class passenger and I felt like a railroad president in his +private car. Soon after starting the conductor entered. He was a tall +and, of course, dignified East Indian in turban and khaki uniform. He +had the punch without which no conductor would be complete, and, +suspended from a strap over his shoulder, was a huge canvas bag, like a +mail bag, the purpose of which puzzled me. The fare, he told me, was +fifteen cents to the end of the line; on giving him a twenty-cent piece +I found the purpose of the canvas bag; it was his money bag, and he +carefully fished from its depths my five cents change. The Borneo +pennies are about as big as cart wheels so this bag was not so out of +proportion as it might seem. In exchange for my fare he gave me a ticket +marked "fifteen cents," which he gravely punched. I did not know what +the ticket was for as I thought there would hardly be a change of +conductors in a run of three miles, but I kept it and in about five +minutes the dignified conductor returned and gravely took up the ticket +again; this impressive performance was repeated on the return trip. + +[Illustration: HOSPITAL ON THE HILL, KUDAT.] + +After leaving the crowded(?) streets of the city our speed rapidly +increased until we were traveling at a rate of not less than ten miles +an hour, which was fast enough considering there were no airbrakes on +the train of three cars, and we had to be ready to stop at any moment +when somebody might want to get on or off. Doubtless the "flyers" on the +main line of the British North Borneo State Railroad run at even greater +speeds than this. The dignity of the officials of this miniature +railroad was most interesting, and was almost equal to that of a negro +porter on the Empire State Express. + +[Illustration: CLUB HOUSE AT JESSELTON.] + +Leaving this railroad center early the next morning we arrived, before +dark, at our last stop in Borneo, Labuan. We had added 50 per cent to +our cabin passenger list at Jesselton by taking aboard a young English +engineer from South Africa. + +[Illustration: PASSENGER TRAIN ON THE B. N. B. S. R. R. AT JESSELTON.] + +The Island of Labuan upon which the town of the same name is situated +lies just off the northwest coast of Borneo. It came under the +protectorate of Great Britain in 1846 and, though small, has a more +up-to-date appearance than any of the other towns visited. The stores +are mainly of concrete with red tile or red-painted corrugated iron +roofs, which, among the tall coconut palms, are very attractive in +appearance. There is one main street, parallel to the beach line, that +is extended as a modern, oiled road for some miles into the country. +Along this road are the very attractive official buildings, each with +its sign in front; also the recreation field and the residences of the +few white inhabitants. All of the streets are clean and have deep cement +gutters on the sides that lead to the sea or to the various lagoons that +extend through the town. Water pipes also extend along the streets with +openings at convenient intervals. Extensive coal mines are located near +the town, but for some reason they were not profitable and the cars and +docks for handling coal are now nearly all idle. On one of the lagoons +is a rather artistic Chinese temple of concrete, well built and in good +repair. + +On the main street is a school, and, seeing a crowd of natives at the +door, I joined the throng to see what was going on inside. It proved to +be the singing hour, and about fifty little Chinese boys, from six to +ten years of age, all in neat khaki uniforms, were singing at the tops +of their voices, led by a very active Chinese man. The little fellows +seemed to enjoy the singing thoroughly, and, after hearing several +songs, all in Chinese, of course, to strange and unusual tunes, I was +surprised to recognize one of the tunes--it was "John Brown's body +lies amoulding in the grave" though what the words were I was unable to +tell since, like the other songs, they were in Chinese. + +[Illustration: BORNEAN BOAT AT JESSELTON.] + +At Labuan the last of our cabin passengers came aboard, two Englishmen, +one a mining engineer, the other a government man. Since no more stops +were to be made in Borneo, the Sandakan headed in a southwest direction +straight for Singapore, and in exactly three days we entered that busy +harbor and dropped anchor among the more than two dozen other ocean +liners from all parts of the world. + +[Illustration: MAIN STREET AT LABUAN.] + +[Illustration: POST OFFICE AND RECREATION GROUND AT LABUAN.] + +Singapore is one of the busiest seaports in the world and the hundreds +of vessels of all sizes and types against the background of handsome +white and cream-colored buildings make a very interesting and impressive +sight. + +[Illustration: CHINESE TEMPLE AT LABUAN.] + +Thus ended a most interesting voyage of nine days, through a region +seldom visited by any but a few Englishmen who are interested in some +way in the development of that, as yet, little developed part of the +world. Although it is a trip that is easily arranged by visitors to the +Philippines it is one that is seldom taken by the tourist. + + + + +V. SINGAPORE, THE MELTING POT OF THE EAST. + + +In Singapore, it is said, can be seen more races of men than at any +other one spot in the world, so that it has been well named "The Melting +Pot of the East." It is also sometimes spoken of as "The Gateway of the +East," since all vessels bound for ports in the Far East call there. + +[Illustration: HONGKONG BANK AND PUBLIC SQUARE.] + +It is said, perhaps without sufficient historical evidence, that the +town was first settled by Malays in 1360 A. D.; but as a port of any +importance its history begins in 1819 when it was ceded by Jahore to +Great Britain through the instrumentality of Sir Stamford Raffles, whose +name is perpetuated in connection with many of the local institutions. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE RESIDENCE STREET.] + +[Illustration: A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE.] + +In the early days, in fact until the introduction of steamships, there +was much annoyance and danger from pirates at sea and robbers on land, +but that of course is now long past and one is as safe here as in any +other part of the world. + +The present-day Singapore is a thriving town of more than 250,000 +inhabitants, and is one of the busiest harbors in the world; more than +three dozen sea-going steamships may sometimes be seen in the harbor at +the same time, and the number of rowboats and other small craft is +legion. + +[Illustration: VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL AND SINGAPORE CRICKET CLUB.] + +On landing one is fairly overwhelmed by the _rickisha_ men, for the +_jinrikisha_, the two-wheeled Japanese cart, is _the_ method of travel +in Singapore, though one may hire a pony wagon (_ghari_), or even an +automobile at very reasonable rates. As to the electric cars, or +"trams," the less said the better; they would disgrace a city of +one-tenth the size of Singapore. + +The streets are excellent and are nearly all level, so that the +rickishas, usually pulled by Chinese, make good time. Many residents own +their own rickisha and hire the man by the month; more well-to-do +people, and there are many wealthy people both native and foreign in +Singapore, have their own teams and automobiles. + +[Illustration: THE SCOTCH KIRK.] + +While there are regular rickisha stands in different parts of town, +especially near the hotels and other public places, there are few +streets so unfrequented that one cannot "pick up" a rickisha at a +moment's notice. Umbrellas are scarcely needed, for in case of a shower +one may call a rickisha to the curb and be whisked to his destination +dryshod. In fact there is very little walking done in Singapore, +especially by Europeans; it is so easy to get into the ever-present and +alluring rickisha. Moreover, it is very hot in the sun, for Singapore is +only a little more than one degree from the equator. There is a regular +scale of prices for public vehicles, but the newcomer is always +"spotted" and is charged double or treble the regular fare until he +learns better than to heed the pathetic or indignant protests of the +rickisha men. + +[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. BUILDING. Methodist Church in left +background.] + +[Illustration: ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE.] + +Like other cities in the East Singapore is a mixture of beauty and +squalor. In the region of the banks, steamship offices, and wholesale +houses there are many handsome buildings: but in the Chinese districts +that make up the greater part of the business section, for the Chinese +merchants far outnumber all others, there are narrow crowded streets, +small houses, and large and variagated smells. There is also a +notorious and wide-open red-light district that is a disgrace to a +modern and supposedly civilized town. + +While the saloon is not particularly in evidence the indulgence in +_stengahs_ (Malay for _half_), or whiskey and sodas, is well-nigh +universal among the European population, not always excluding the women +and clergy. Since alcohol is said to be particularly dangerous in the +tropics it would be interesting to know the total effect of this general +indulgence. It is generally conceded that after a few years of tropical +life Europeans must go home to recuperate; it would be interesting to +know if the use of strong alcoholics bears any relation to the frequency +of these necessary trips to temperate regions. + +[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.] + +Certainly life seems easy and pleasant in Singapore, especially among +government officials. About eight or nine o'clock in the morning a +stream of rickishas, carriages and automobiles carries the men down town +from their pleasant and often very handsome homes uptown or in the +suburbs. Many of the finest of these homes are owned by wealthy Chinese +merchants. About five in the afternoon the stream sets in the other +direction, carrying those whose day's work is over back to their cool +villas or to some recreation ground where tennis, cricket, golf, or +football may be enjoyed for an hour or two before dark. Dinner is +usually between seven and eight and is over in time for evening +entertainments which begin late. Although too far from the beaten tracks +frequently to enjoy first-class dramatic talent, there are the +ubiquitous "movies," and for the transient visitor the Malay and Chinese +theaters are of great interest. + +[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.] + +An excellent race course provides entertainment of that sort at frequent +intervals. For the more serious-minded the extensive Raffles Museum and +Library is centrally and beautifully located. + +The beautiful Anglican Cathedral is the largest church in the city, and +many other denominations possess smaller but attractive churches. + +The central building of all is the beautiful Victoria Memorial Hall with +its tall clock tower and chimes. In front of this white building is the +black statue of an elephant, presented to the city by the king of Siam +to commemorate the first visit ever paid to a foreign city by a Siamese +monarch. In the neighborhood of the Cathedral and Memorial Hall are the +hotels, which are good in most respects but whose charges to transient +guests are usually exorbitant: here is also the main recreation field +where cricket, tennis and football are played every afternoon by both +natives and Europeans. + +[Illustration: A HINDU TEMPLE. + +Rickishas passing.] + +While these churches, residences and parks (including the well-known +botanical gardens) are interesting, it is the oriental element that has +the greatest charm for those from other lands. A rickisha ride through +the teeming streets of the Chinese or Malay quarters, especially at +night, is most interesting. If taken during the day a Chinese funeral +procession with its banners, bands and tom-toms may be met; in fact the +death-rate among the squalid Chinese residents is so high that funerals +are of very frequent occurrence. + +[Illustration: THE MOSQUE AT JAHORE.] + +At the docks and other gathering places one is fascinated by the +constantly shifting sea of strange faces and costumes; sometimes the +lack of costume is more noticeable than the costume, as among the +coolies or laborers from India or Arabia. Chinese, Japanese, various +races of Malays and East Indians, jostle elbows with Englishmen, +Americans and every other race under the sun except perhaps, the +American Indian. It is surely a motley throng and the tower of Babel +was nowhere compared to this conglomeration of tongues. + +The oriental is a rather mild individual as a rule and wrangling and +fighting is probably less common than among occidental communities. + +Several interesting temples are to be seen in Singapore; their quaint +architecture is always interesting to the occidental tourist, and the +hideous images to be seen within will repay the trouble of removing +one's shoes, which must be done before admittance is granted. + +[Illustration: CANAL AND MARKET PLACE AT JAHORE.] + +When the sights of the city have been exhausted a visit to Jahore on the +mainland (Singapore is on a small island) of the Malay Peninsula will be +interesting. Here is the summer palace of H. H. the Sultan of Jahore; +also a large and handsome mosque. Here is also a wide-open gambling +establishment where hundreds of Chinese may be seen playing "fantan." + +On the return from Jahore, if interested in such things, a visit to a +rubber estate may be made, and the whole process in the manufacture of +rubber may be seen in a few hours; it is a strange and fascinating +process and is, perhaps, the most important industry of the Federated +Malay States. + +It is interesting to compare Singapore which has been a British colony +for nearly a century with Manila, a city of about the same size, that +has been under American rule for less than two decades. The results that +have been accomplished in the latter place along the lines of +sanitation, education, and other civilizing influences should make an +American proud of his native land. + + + + +VI. HOW RUBBER IS MADE. + + +One of the principal products of the Malay Peninsula is rubber. Like +most people who have never happened to investigate the matter my ideas +as to the way in which an automobile tire is extracted from a tree were +very hazy; so, with another American, who had charge of a mission +school in Singapore, I boarded the Jahore express on the F. M. S. R. R. +(F. M. S. meaning Federated Malay States) and after a run of half an +hour arrived at the Bukit Timar rubber estate some ten miles northwest +of Singapore. + +The Bukit Timar is an up-to-date plantation of more than one hundred +thousand trees, and here we saw the whole process, from tree to sheet +rubber, as shipped to all parts of the world and sold by the pound. +Rubber trees grow to a considerable size, but this being a young +plantation most of the trees were not over six or eight inches in +diameter. In the middle of the estate was a very attractive bungalow +where lived the manager and his wife, a young English couple, and the +former very courteously showed us about his place and explained the +different processes. + +"Tapping" begins at daybreak, and all the juice or _latex_ is collected +before noon. Dozens of native and Chinese men and boys are employed in +this process, some of the latter being so small that they can scarcely +carry the two buckets of latex on the bamboo stick over the shoulder. + +In tapping, a very thin and narrow piece of bark is gouged off, just +deep enough to make the tree bleed, but not deep enough to kill it; so +that by the time the bark on one side of the tree has been cut away that +on the opposite side has had time to regenerate. The process is thus a +perpetual one and the tree lasts indefinitely. + +The exact method of tapping varies, but usually it is begun as two +slanting grooves that converge to form a V. The latex oozes from the +freshly cut bark, runs down the converging grooves to their point of +union, and is caught in a small glass cup or other vessel suspended +under a tiny spout at the apex of the V. The method of tapping shown in +the photograph is different from this somewhat, though the principle is +the same. The latex that oozes from the grooves is a pure white, sticky +fluid resembling milk; about a tablespoonful is obtained each day from +each tree. + +By the time each man has tapped or gouged all of the trees assigned to +him (perhaps two or three hundred) the first-tapped trees have bled all +they will for that day, so that collecting is begun at once. In each cup +is a little water to prevent the latex from coagulating and sticking to +the bottom. + +[Illustration: HOME OF THE MANAGER OF THE BUKIT TIMAR RUBBER ESTATE +NEAR SINGAPORE.] + +The first V is cut several feet from the ground, and the amount that is +gouged from each side of the V each day is so very thin that it will be +months before the apex of the V reaches the ground, by which time the +regeneration of the first cuts will be well under way. + +After the flow of latex has ceased for the day a narrow strip hardens +along each groove, like gum on a cherry tree. These little strips of +rubber, with bits of adherent bark, as well as any drops that may have +fallen to the ground, are collected in bags and carried to the factory +to be made into sheets of cheap grades of commercial rubber. + +[Illustration: A YOUNG RUBBER TREE SHOWING ONE METHOD OF TAPPING. + + The white lines are the latex running down the grooves into the + glass cup at the bottom. Above the two slanting lines is seen + the scarred tissue where the bark has been gouged away. When the + lower end of the lower line reaches the ground the tree will be + tapped on the opposite side. The amount of latex in the cup + seems greater than it really is because of the water upon which + it floats. The size of the tree may be judged from the kodak + case at its foot.] + +After the trees have been tapped the latex is collected in carefully +cleaned tin buckets, brought to the factory and strained into huge +earthenware tubs. It is then put into enamelware pans about twelve by +thirty-six inches in size and three inches deep, and a very weak acid +(usually acetic) is stirred into it. In about half an hour the acid +coagulates the latex (like rennet in making junket from milk) into a +soft, pure white mass, about two inches thick and of the area of the +pan. This soft mass of rubber is carefully floated out of the pan onto a +table, where it is rolled on both sides for a few minutes with a wooden +rolling-pin to squeeze out the excess of water and acid. It is then +carefully lifted into a large vessel of pure water to harden until the +next day. + +[Illustration: THREE LATEX GATHERERS. + + The boy in the middle of the group has the canvass bag over his + shoulder in which he carries the scraps of dried rubber from the + grooves on the trees.] + +The next day it is run several times through smooth steel rollers under +dropping water, where it is flattened out into sheets of about an inch +or less in thickness and of a proportionately greater area. It is next +passed through roughened steel rollers that mark it off into ridges and +depressions like a waffle. + +These sheets, now tough and elastic, are hung in a closed chamber and +smoked until they reach a proper shade of brown, when they are ready for +shipment. The smoking process, which is to preserve the rubber, often +takes many days, though at the time of our visit the manager of the +Bukit Timar estate was experimenting with a method that would complete +the smoking in a few hours. + +The production of rubber in the Malay Peninsula is of rather recent date +and it has increased by leaps and bounds. In the various "booms" that +have taken place many fortunes have been made--as witnessed by the +palatial residences about Singapore--but many have also been lost, +though the witnesses to these are not so evident. + +[Illustration: THE TRAVELER PALM, AN UNUSUAL TYPE OFTEN SEEN IN THE FAR +EAST SINGAPORE AND ELSEWHERE.] + +Whether the increased demands for rubber will justify the thousands of +young trees that are still being planted, not only on the Malay +Peninsula but on Borneo and other islands of the Far East, remains to be +seen; but, judging from the opinions of several rubber experts of +Singapore, this is quite doubtful. + + + + +VII. TWO CHINESE CITIES. + + +After a voyage (unusually calm for the China Sea) of four days from +Singapore, the S. S. "Buelow" slowly steamed among the islands at +the entrance and came to anchor just after sunset in the beautiful +harbor of Hongkong. There is really no _city_ of Hongkong, though +letters so directed will reach their destination, and even the residents +of the city in whose harbor we were anchored would have spoken of living +in Hongkong. The name "Hongkong" belongs to the small island, ten miles +long by three wide, that lies about a mile from the mainland of China. +Along the north or land side of this island lies the city of Victoria, +with a population of 350,000, commonly known by the name of the entire +island, Hongkong. + +Practically the whole island is occupied by mountains of a maximum +height of about 1800 feet, so that the town has only a narrow strip of +level ground along the beach and extends in scattered fashion to the +very top of the ridge. + +As we came to anchor the twinkling lights of the streets and houses were +just beginning to appear, and in a little while, when the short tropical +twilight had changed to darkness, the shore line was a mass of lights +which gradually became more scattered toward the hill-tops, where often +a single light marked the location of some isolated residence. Across +the harbor another smaller group of lights showed the position of +Kowloon, a small seaport on the mainland and the southern terminus of +the Kowloon and Canton Railroad. On the water between the two towns, +really one great harbor, were thousands of lights, indicating the +position of invisible steamships, junks, tugs, launches and sampans. +Most of these lights were stationary, showing that the vessels to which +they belonged were at anchor, but some of them were in motion, and +hardly had we come slowly to a standstill and dropped anchor before we +were besieged by a swarm of launches and sampans all clamoring for +passengers to take ashore. + +As is customary in the East, steamers usually anchor in the harbor at +Hongkong at some distance from shore, so that the larger hotels, as well +as Cook's Agency, have private launches to take passengers ashore. Since +it was rather late to see anything of the town most of the cabin +passengers preferred to remain on board for the night, and the view of +the lights of the harbor and town as seen from the ship was well worth +enjoying for one evening. + +[Illustration: VIEW ON "THE PEAK"; GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE IN THE LEFT +BACKGROUND.] + +The next morning we were able to see the meaning of the lights of the +night before. The business part of the town, with its crowded Chinese +sections and its fine municipal and office buildings, lies as a narrow +strip along the shore, while struggling up the mountain side are the +residences, churches, schools, etc. of the English and wealthy Chinese +residents. On this mountain side is also a most beautiful and +interesting botanical garden. On the highest point of "The Peak," as the +main peak of the range is called, is a weather observatory and signal +station, and from this point one of the most beautiful views in the +world may be obtained; to the south, the open China Sea, with numberless +green islands extending almost to the horizon; to the north, the +mainland of China, fringed with low mountains; between the mainland and +the island the long, narrow strait forming the harbors of Victoria and +Kowloon; at the foot of the mountain the densely crowded business +streets; and extending up the almost precipitous northern slopes of the +mountain the beautiful, often palatial homes of the wealthy residents. +Winding along the mountain sides a number of fine roads and paths give +access to these homes, but to reach the higher levels, especially, there +may be seen the cable tramway, going so straight up the side of the +mountain that it is almost alarming to look forward or back from the +open cars. The homes nearer the foot of the mountain are usually reached +by means of sedan chairs carried by two, three or even four coolies, +while in the level business section the usual means of travel are the +electric cars and the ever-ready rickishas. Horses are practically +unknown except for racing purposes; carts are pulled by Chinese coolies +instead of by horses, and merchandise is carried by coolies in baskets +or bales on the shoulders. It is an interesting though unpleasant sight +to see strings of Chinese men and women toiling up the steep sides of +the mountain, carrying stones, cement, window frames, timbers, and all +other material used in building the palaces in which the wealthy people +live. For a day of this back-breaking labor they are paid about what one +of their rich employers would give for one of his best cigars. Every +stick, stone and nail in all of these houses has been carried up all +these hundreds of feet on the backs of men and women, chiefly the +latter. + +[Illustration: CHINESE JUNKS IN THE HARBOR OF CANTON.] + +In a beautiful little level valley between the bases of two of the +mountains is the play ground of Hongkong, known as "Happy Valley"; here +are tennis courts, a golf course, etc. overlooked on either side, rather +incongruously, by a Chinese and a Christian burial ground. + +Having visited the various points of interest about Hongkong, which is +really a part of the British Empire (ceded by the Chinese in 1841) +though a vast majority of its residents are Chinese, I decided to have a +look at a real Chinese city, Canton, located about ninety miles up the +Canton River. As Canton happened to be in the throes of a revolution at +that time, people were flocking by the thousands from there to Hongkong. +Cook's Agency was warning people to keep away, and Hongkong papers had +as headlines "Serious Outlook in Canton"; but I did not expect ever to +have another chance to visit this typical Chinese city, so I boarded one +of the boats of the French line that left Hongkong late in the evening +for the run up the river. I learned later that one of these boats had +been "shot up" a few days before by the revolutionists, and that a +number of the passengers had been killed. However we were not molested, +and reached Canton about eight the next morning. + +After daylight we were able to get an idea of the country on either bank +of the muddy river; it was low and marshy, every acre being planted in +rice. Occasionally, on a slight elevation, would be seen a pagoda-shaped +temple, standing lonely among the rice fields, where doubtless it had +stood for many centuries. + +At frequent intervals we passed small native boats, some of them with +sails and loaded with goods, most of them rowed by one or more oars. It +was to be noticed that when there was only one oar it was being worked +vigorously by a woman, while a man sat comfortably in the stern and +steered. These people were evidently going from the crowded villages in +which they lived to work in the rice fields. + +At Canton the river, which is there only a few hundred yards wide, was +jammed with craft of all kinds, including one or two small war vessels +and hundreds, probably thousands, of _sampans_. The latter carry +passengers and small quantities of freight; they are roofed over more or +less completely and serve as the homes of the owners' families, all the +members of which take a hand in the rowing. + +[Illustration: SAMPANS IN THE HARBOUR OF CANTON.] + +The foreign (mostly English and French) quarter of Canton is known as +"the Shameen" (meaning sand-bank), a small island in the river +connected with the city proper by a couple of bridges. It has +beautifully shaded streets and fine houses, and is utterly different +from the Chinese Canton. At the Shameen's one hotel, which charges the +modest rate of from four to eight dollars per day for very ordinary +service, I was told that conditions were "very uncertain" and that +nobody was allowed to enter the walled city after 9 P. M. without a +pass. + +[Illustration: A WIDE STREET IN CANTON.] + +A guide having thrust his services upon me before I could get off the +boat, we left the Shameen, crossed one of the bridges and plunged into +the network of streets where, without a guide, a stranger would be lost +in a few minutes. + +In a few of the streets outside of the walled city rickishas are the +usual means of travel, but inside the walls most of the streets are too +narrow for rickishas to pass one another, and paving of large flagstones +is too rough for wheels, so that the sedan chair is the only means of +locomotion except one's own legs. My self-appointed guide said he would +get chairs for seven dollars per day ($3.00 in American money) but I +told him I expected to walk and that if he wanted to go with me he would +have to do likewise; he immediately professed to think that walking was +the only way to go, so we agreed to see the town afoot. After we had +walked pretty briskly for three or four hours he inquired meekly, "Can +you walk this way all day?" People in the tropics are not usually fond +of walking, but Ping Nam was "game" and made no further remarks about my +method of locomotion. Some of the less frequented streets where there +were no sun-screens overhead were very hot, but in the busy streets the +sun was almost excluded by bamboo screens and by the walls of the houses +on each side, so that the heat was not nearly so oppressive as might be +expected in so terribly congested a city. Many of these streets were so +narrow that a tall man could touch the houses on each side with +outstretched hands. + +On each side were stores of all sorts with open fronts with gay signs +and with gayly colored goods on display, making a picture of wonderful +fascination and everchanging interest. + +Although we wandered for hour after hour through a perfect wilderness of +such streets we saw not a single white person; it seemed as though I +were the only Caucasian among the more than a million Asiatics, though +this, of course, was not actually the case. + +In the busier streets the crowds filled the space from wall to wall, so +that when a string of coolies came along, bearing burdens in the usual +manner from a stick over the shoulder and humming the cheerful though +monotonous "get-out-of-the-way" tune, we had to step aside, close +against or into some store to let them pass; and when an occasional +chair came along it swept the entire traffic aside as a taxi might in a +crowded alley of an American city. + +In spite of the density of the population the people all seemed happy +and contented; even the little children with faces covered with sores, +as was often the case, appeared cheerful, and ran and played like other +children. + +In the stores the people could be watched at work of all kinds, from +blacksmithy to finest filigree silver work inlaid with the tiny colored +feathers of the brightly colored kingfisher; and from rough carpenter +work to the finest ivory carving for which the Chinese are famous. Of +course the amount they pay for some of this work of extreme skill is +ridiculously small, yet their living expenses are so small that they +are doubtless in better circumstances than many of the workers in our +larger cities. + +The silk-weavers, working at their primitive looms in crowded rooms, +excite one's sympathy more than most of the other workers, though they +too seemed to be quite cheerful over their monotonous tasks. + +[Illustration: COURT OF AN ANCESTRAL TEMPLE IN CANTON.] + +Through these crowded streets we wandered, the sight of a white man and +a camera exciting some interest, though not a great deal. Canton is said +to have been the scene of more outrages of one sort or another than any +other city in the world, but in spite of the fact that a revolution was +supposed to be in progress we saw no signs of disorder. There were +soldiers and armed policemen everywhere, and groups of people were +frequently seen reading with interest proclamations posted at various +places; what the nature of the proclamations was I was, of course, not +able of myself to learn, and Ping Nam did not seem to care to enlighten +me, possibly thinking he might scare me out of town and thus lose his +job. + +Occasionally stopping to watch some skilful artisan at work or to make +some small purchase, we went from place to place visiting temples and +other objects of especial interest. Some of these temples are centuries +old, others are comparatively new. Some are comparatively plain, others +like the modern Chun-ka-chi ancestral temple, which is said to have cost +$750,000 "gold," are wonderfully ornate, with highly colored carvings +and cement mouldings. Others are of interest chiefly because of the +hideous images they contain; one of these has hundreds of these idols +and is hence known as the "Temple of the Five Hundred Genii." + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE "TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII," +CANTON.] + +After visiting several of these temples and the picturesque flowery +pagoda we set out for the famous water clock that is said to have been +built more than thirteen hundred years ago. It is now located in a dark +little room in the top of an old house and is reached by a winding +flight of outside stone stairs. It consists of four large jars of water, +one above the other, so that the water may run slowly, at a definite +rate, from the upper to the lower jars, and gradually raise, in the +lowest jar, a float with an attached vertical scale that tells the time. +In the window visible from the street below signs are placed at +intervals that tell the time indicated by the clock. + +From the water clock we visited the ancient "City of the Dead," a small +cemetery just outside one of the old city gates. These gates, some of +which are large and imposing, pierce the dilapidated wall at intervals. +The wall, about six miles in circumference, is surrounded by the remains +of a moat, now chiefly useful as an addition to the picturesque +landscape and as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The top of a city +gate, reached by a winding stone stairway from within, is a convenient +place from which to view the densely crowded roofs of the adjacent part +of the city. + +[Illustration: THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON.] + +From the "City of the Dead" we made for the fairly wide street along the +river front; here we took rickishas, much to the relief of my tired +guide, to say nothing of my tired self, and were soon at the Canton +terminus of the K. & C. R. R. The station was thronged with people +waiting for the Kowloon express. + +The road-bed of the K. & C. R. R. is excellent, and the cars and +engine, all of English make, made a very respectable appearance. + +For nearly half of the distance to Kowloon I had my section of the one +first-class car to myself, as I was the only Caucasian on the train: +then an English civil engineer and his family came aboard and shared my +compartment for the rest of the way. The second-and third-class cars, +of which there were half a dozen or more, were crowded with natives, +with boxes and bundles of all sorts and sizes. + +[Illustration: A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN FROM +THE "CITY OF THE DEAD," CANTON.] + +After making the run of about ninety miles in something less than three +hours we reached the ferry at Kowloon, and in a quarter of an hour more +we were again in Hongkong, as different from Canton as though it were on +the other side of the world instead of being only three hours away. + + + + +VIII. MEANDERINGS IN MODERN MANILA. + + +Manila, after twenty years of American control, is a fascinating mixture +of past and present; of romance and commercialism; of oriental ease and +occidental hustle. + +Enter through one of the beautiful old city gates, say the Santa Lucia, +which bears the date 1781, and one finds himself in the old or walled +city, Intramuros, still very Spanish in its appearance, though the +government offices and other public buildings are here located. The +massive gray stone wall, started in the early part of the seventeenth +century, was originally surrounded by a moat, with drawbridges. It is +said that a very efficient American official once suggested the +desirability of having the wall whitewashed; fortunately his idea was +not carried out. + +In contrast to the comparative quiet of the narrow streets of the +Intramuros the docks along the Pasig River, that flows through the heart +of the town, present a scene of bustle and confusion worthy of a city of +its size, some 300,000 inhabitants. Here may be seen vessels of all +sorts, from all parts of the world: steamships, junks, tugs, rowboats, +and _cascos_, the last being the name given the native barge for +carrying freight. The casco is covered by a roof of matting, made in +sliding sections, with a cabin in the stern where the family of the +owner lives. + +While there is an excellent electric street railway system and plenty of +automobiles to be had, the common method of getting about is to 'phone +for, or to hail, a passing one-horse vehicle, of which there are three +distinct types charging different fares for the same service; the more +expensive vehicles are, however, more comfortable and have better +horses. Like the taxi-driver of New York or the rickisha-man of +Singapore the driver of the _caratella_ or _caramata_ will charge all +the traffic will bear, and it is well for the newcomer to inquire of an +old resident what the proper fare for a given distance is before +starting. + +[Illustration: SANTA LUCIA GATE. + +One of the entrances to the Walled City. Erected 1781.] + +The typical vehicle for hauling freight is the low, two-wheeled cart, +drawn by the slow-moving, long-horned _carabao_ or water buffalo, one of +the most characteristic animals of the islands. This beast is +well-named, since it delights to lie buried in a muddy pool of water, +with just its head above the surface. It may be seen in the larger +lakes, swimming or wading in the deeper waters at a distance from the +shore. In the cities it is a quiet, peaceful brute that one brushes +against without a thought, but in the country, where is browses in the +open fields, it behooves the white man to be very circumspect as he +passes in its neighborhood, for it seems to have an aversion to the +Caucasian race and will frequently charge in a very unpleasant, not to +say dangerous, way. It is said that the carabao never shows this +hostility toward the natives. A peculiarity of the law is such that +should a man shoot a dangerous carabao to protect his own life he would +have to pay for the animal he killed. + +[Illustration: PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY. + +Seen from the outside.] + +Of course for small amounts of freight, in Manila as in all places in +the Orient, the ubiquitous Chinese coolie is the usual means of +transportation, and with a huge load at each end of a bamboo pole across +his shoulder he shambles along with a curious gait, between a walk and a +run, that he seems capable of sustaining for an almost indefinite time. + +[Illustration: PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA. + +Casco in right foreground, with matting roof.] + +The "Chino" of course is the merchant of Manila as of all the cities of +this part of the world. The main shopping street, the Escolta, is fairly +lined with Chinese stores of all sorts, some of them quite extensive; +and some of the narrower side streets, in the same neighborhood, have +practically no other stores than those kept by the Chinese. It is +wonderfully interesting to wander about these narrow, winding streets, +and into the dark, sometimes ill-smelling stores, but one should early +learn the gentle art of "jewing down" the prices that are first asked +for goods that are offered for sale. The Oriental always asks much more +than he is willing or even eager to accept. You ask the price of a +garment, say, and are told "Two pesos": you shake your head and say "Too +much": "Peso and half" will then be tried: you again say "Too much" and +perhaps turn as though to leave the shop; "How much you give?" says the +crafty merchant; "One peso," perhaps you suggest; "Take it," says the +eager merchant as he hands you an article that should probably sell for +half the amount paid. You leave the store feeling good over having +gotten ahead of the crafty Oriental, and he probably chuckles to himself +over having cheated the rich American. + +[Illustration: A CARAMATA. + +The taxi of the lower classes in Manila.] + +[Illustration: A CARABAO AND CART.] + +Most of the shopping is done in the morning or late in the afternoon. +For several hours, during the heat of the day, many of the stores are +closed while the proprietors enjoy a midday lunch and siesta. + +[Illustration: PLAZA DE SANTO TOMAS.] + +When tired of shopping or sight-seeing one may wander into a nearby +church or rest in some public park or square, such as the Plaza de Santo +Tomas. Many of these old squares are exceedingly picturesque and +attractive. + +The different sections of the city are given distinct names, as though +they were separate towns, but they are separated by imaginary lines +only. In one of the more residential of these sections is the great +Manila General Hospital, an up-to-date, modern plant; nearby is the main +part of the University of the Philippines, whose students, it is said, +compare quite favorably with the average college students of America. In +this same neighborhood is also the main part of the Philippine Bureau of +Science, where trained chemists, geologists, botanists, zoologists, +bacteriologists, engineers, and other scientific experts are engaged in +numerous lines of investigation of importance to the welfare of the +islands. Most of these experts have, in the past, been drawn from the +United States, as have the professors in the University. Just what will +be the condition of affairs in these high-grade institutions when the +islands are entirely under native control is somewhat problematic. + +[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES.] + +While the hotels are not numerous in Manila one may secure the best of +modern service by going to the Manila Hotel, down on the water-front, +just off the great promenade and playground known as the Lunetta, where +everybody goes at night to see everybody else and to listen to the band. +Or one may see more of the native, especially the Spanish, life of the +town by stopping at the Hotel de Spain, in the heart of the town, just +off the Escolta. Here one may be quite, if not luxuriously, comfortable +at a much more reasonable rate, and may enjoy watching the Spanish and +other foreign guests of the hotel instead of the usual crowd of military +and other well-dressed Americans that frequent the Manila Hotel. + +[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE PHILIPPINE BUREAU OF SCIENCE.] + +Although the population of Manila largely adheres to the Roman Catholic +Church, many of the Protestant denominations have churches of their own, +and a flourishing Y. M. C. A., with a fine, modern building, is +available for the men of the city. + +Life in such a town is certainly very attractive, and there is a charm +about the place that makes one wish to return; but it is a long, long +way from home and from many of the things that may be had only in the +greater countries of Europe and America. + + + + +IX. A PACIFIC PARADISE, HONOLULU. + + +The long voyage to or from the Orient is delightfully interrupted by the +stop at Honolulu, capital of the Hawaiian Islands, about 2,100 miles +southwest of San "Francisco. This interesting group of volcanic islands +named in 1778 by their discoverer, Jas. Cook, the Sandwich Islands after +the Earl of Sandwich, then Lord of the British Admiralty, is said to be +the most isolated group of inhabited islands in the world. It is +possible that the real discoverer of the islands was not Jas. Cook, but +a Spanish seaman named Juan Gaetano, who sighted them in 1555. Cook and +his men were treated as supernatural beings and worshiped by the +superstitious natives as gods, until the death of one of the sailors +showed that they were mere mortals; and in 1779, by their overbearing +conduct, the Englishmen came into conflict with the irate natives and +Jas. Cook was killed. "His body was taken to a _heiau_ or temple; the +flesh was removed from the bones and burned, and the bones were tied up +with red feathers and deified. Parts of the body were recovered, +however, and committed to the deep with military honors, and a part of +the bones were kept in the temple of Lono and worshiped until 1819, when +they were concealed in some secret place. A monument erected by his +fellow countrymen now marks the place where he fell on the shores of +Kealakekua." + +In 1893 the queen was deposed and a provisional government was +established, to be succeeded, in 1894, by the Republic of Hawaii. In +1900, by an act of Congress, the Hawaiian Islands became a territory of +the United States. Of the one hundred and ninety and odd thousands of +inhabitants of the islands, in 1910, nearly eighty thousand were +Japanese. The native Hawaiians come next in point of numbers and are the +most interesting people to the average tourist. Though dark-skinned, +they are quite different in appearance from the negro, and many of the +young men and women are decidedly good-looking. + +As the vessel enters the beautiful harbor, with the city of Honolulu +spread out along the shore and the mountains rising abruptly in the +immediate background, the well-formed young men and boys are seen +alongside in the water or in native boats, ready to dive for the coins +that the passengers seem always ready to throw to them. These amphibious +people, like most of those in the tropics, are perfectly at home in the +water and seem never to tire, no matter how far they may go to meet the +incoming vessels, as they slowly wind their way through the tortuous +channels among the treacherous coral reefs. + +[Illustration: DIAMOND HEAD, A FORTIFIED EXTINCT VOLCANO. + +At the entrance to the harbor of Honolulu.] + +To the south of the entrance to the harbor, which it guards with +batteries of concealed cannon and mortars, is the extinct volcanic +mountain known as Diamond Head, shown from the land side in the picture. +A grass-covered, bowl-shaped crater of perhaps half a mile diameter may +be entered through a tunnel on the land side, where Fort Ruger is +situated. The rim of the crater, which is only a few hundred feet high, +may be easily scaled and in most places affords easy walking and a fine +view of the harbor. In the higher portion of the rim, seen in the right +of the photograph, is a heavy battery of big guns, concealed in +passages in the solid rock, that could probably protect the entrance of +the harbor below from any ordinary fleet. Visitors are not allowed to +see these rock-hidden batteries, whose existence would never be +suspected from the smooth, apparently unbroken surface of the rock as +seen from the harbor. + +Like many other beautiful places, Hawaii is said to have the "most +perfect climate in the world." Add to this wonderful climate and +beautiful scenery, of sea and mountains combined, the fact that there is +supposed to be not a snake nor a poisonous plant nor an insect worse +than bees in all the islands, it would seem that this is truly a +paradise, without even the serpent to cause trouble. + +For the tourist there are excellent hotels and all the conveniences of a +continental city, and amusements of sufficient variety to suit the most +blase. For those who are merely stopping off for a day on the way to or +from more distant ports it is hard to decide which of the many +interesting places to visit. If it be his first visit, the mere city +streets with the royal palms and other magnificent trees, the stores, +the cosmopolitan crowds and other strange sights and sounds will be +fascinating. A drive to the Punchbowl, the Poli, or more distant points, +may be taken in a few hours, while if interested in natural history the +gorgeous fishes and other marine forms to be seen at the Aquarium will +be a revelation to one accustomed only to the life of the temperate +zone. + +At the Bishop Museum the natural history, ethnology, etc., of the +islands may be studied in a synoptic form. It is here that the famous +war-cloak of Kamehameha I is on exhibition. It is a truly wonderful +garment, four feet long, with a spread of ten feet or more at the +bottom. It is made of the yellow feathers of the mama bird, and when it +is realized that each bird furnishes but two small tufts of feathers, +one under each wing, it will be imagined how many thousands of these +small birds were sacrificed to make this one robe. It is valued at +$150,000. It is carefully protected from dust and light but is exhibited +to visitors to the museum. + +In the cool of the evening, when tired from a day of sight-seeing, the +traveler may listen to the Honolulu Band, on some public square. It is +composed of native musicians, but the instruments are those of the +ordinary American brass band, and but for the cosmopolitan character of +the audience one might imagine himself in a city of southern California +or some other subtropical part of the United States. + +Besides having the most equable climate in the world Honolulu claims the +most perfect bathing-resort on earth, Waikiki Beach. The water is +certainly all that could be desired, but the not infrequent sharp masses +of coral that project up through the white sand of the otherwise perfect +beach are decidedly objectionable, and the writer cut a gash in his +foot, by stepping on one of these pieces of coral, that was many days in +healing. + +[Illustration: ROYAL PALMS, HONOLULU.] + +Another of the points of interest in the city is the Royal Mausoleum, +where are the bodies of many of the royalty of the Hawaiian dynasties. +The Hawaiian alphabet consists of but twelve letters, and the +preponderance of vowels in many words seems remarkable to an +English-speaking person. For example one of the bodies in the Royal +Mausoleum is that of "Kaiminaauao, sister of Queen Kalakaua"; it will be +noticed that eight of the eleven letters in this name are vowels. In +this Mausoleum doubtless now rest the remains of Liliuokalani, the last +queen of Hawaii, who was deposed in 1893 for attempting to force a less +liberal constitution upon the people. She married an American and twice +visited the United States, after his death. + +If time permit, and the pocketbook too, most interesting side trips to +the other islands of the group may be made, especially to the active +volcano, Mauna Loa, 13,760 feet high, with Kilauea on its eastern slope, +situated on the Island of Hawaii. + +While the Hawaiian Islands may not be as perfect as they are advertised, +they nevertheless give a very fair imitation of Paradise, and a better +place in which to rest and enjoy nature in her kindest moods would be +hard to find. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + + +Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (nearby, near-by) + +Pg. 45, unusual spelling of word "variagated" retained. (and large and +variagated smells) + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT *** + +***** This file should be named 26707.txt or 26707.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/7/0/26707/ + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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