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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wanderings in the Orient
+
+Author: Albert M. Reese
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26707]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+  BY
+
+  ALBERT M. REESE
+
+
+  WITH SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+
+  CHICAGO LONDON
+  THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  1919
+
+
+
+
+  COPYRIGHT BY
+  THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  1919
+
+
+  PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+Foreword                                           5
+
+   I. Life in a Philippine Village                 7
+
+  II. A Visit to Tay Tay                          18
+
+ III. The Leper Colony of Culion                  24
+
+  IV. From Zamboanga to Singapore                 29
+
+   V. Singapore, the Melting Pot of the East      42
+
+  VI. How Rubber Is Made                          53
+
+ VII. Two Chinese Cities                          58
+
+VIII. Meanderings in Modern Manila                69
+
+  IX. A Pacific Paradise, Honolulu                77
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD.
+
+
+To most Americans, "going abroad" means visiting Europe. Since European
+travel will doubtless be unsatisfactory for some years to come, the
+globetrotter may well turn his attention to the Far East which, while
+not so accessible, is after all easily reached if the cost be not
+prohibitive; and the ubiquitous Cook is nearly always on hand to help
+the traveler out of difficulties.
+
+The trip across the Pacific is of course a long one, but the journey is
+interrupted, before the end of the first week, by a stop at that
+tropical paradise, the Hawaiian Islands.
+
+If one should need a complete rest, this seven thousand mile voyage is
+just the thing. If he desire he may read or study to good advantage. If
+inclined to sea-sickness there is plenty of time to recover and still
+enjoy the greater part of the journey. While the distances between
+stopping places are often great one feels that he can "do" a place in
+much less time than it would take in Europe, where objects of historic
+and other interest are so crowded together. If interested in the work of
+foreign missions abundant opportunity offers for their study at first
+hand.
+
+It was chiefly during these journeys between stopping places that the
+following sketches were written, as a sort of diary or log, illustrated
+by photographs taken by the writer.
+
+On a beautiful morning in May the U. S. Army Transport "Sherman," after
+a voyage of twenty-eight days from San Francisco, tied up at the dock in
+Manila. The regular lines make the trip in much less time than the
+leisurely transports, but the writer, as a representative of the
+Smithsonian Institution, was furnished passage on the government vessel.
+With Manila as headquarters, collecting trips were made to various
+regions roundabout. Some of these places are described in the following
+chapters.
+
+Finally, upon one of the inter-island transports, a trip to the
+southernmost islands of the Philippine group was made, ending at
+Zamboanga, where the North German Lloyd steamer was taken for Singapore,
+via Borneo. From Singapore a four days' trip, without stop, brought us
+to Hongkong; whence, after seeing that place and the nearby city of
+Canton, a two days' trip brought us again to Manila. It is the various
+places visited in this more or less out-of-the-way circuit that are
+described in the remaining chapters.
+
+  A. M. R.
+
+  MORGANTOWN, W. VA.
+
+
+
+
+I. LIFE IN A PHILIPPINE VILLAGE.
+
+
+The little village or _barrio_ of Mariveles is situated just inside the
+narrow cape that forms the northern border of the entrance to Manila
+Bay. The city of Manila lies out of sight, thirty miles to the
+southeast, but the island of Corregidor lies only seven miles to the
+south, and the great searchlights at night are quite dazzling when
+turned directly upon the village. A large amount of money has recently
+been spent in fortifying Corregidor until it is now considered
+practically impregnable.
+
+The village extends for about half a mile close along the beach and is
+flanked, on the west, by the buildings of a United States quarantine
+station.
+
+Arriving by a very dilapidated launch from Manila I waited at the
+government dock while the native boy I had brought with me went to the
+village to find, if possible, a vacant house. He soon returned, with
+another boy to help carry our baggage, (there was not a cart or wagon of
+any sort in the place) and with the information that he had engaged a
+house for our use. A whole house for two people sounded rather
+formidable but as this house contained only two rooms its rental was not
+as extravagant as might have been imagined. It was located on the main
+thoroughfare which had the very American name of Washington Street. Like
+the typical native house, our Washington Street mansion was built
+chiefly of bamboo and _nipa_ palm, with a few heavier timbers in the
+framework. Upon the main timbers of the frame was built a sort of
+lattice of split bamboo, upon which in turn was sewed, shinglewise,
+close layers of nipa palm that are quite impervious to rain, are fairly
+durable, and are very inflammable. The _people's_ floor was elevated
+four or five feet above the ground, thereby securing not only air and
+dryness for the people above, but also providing a very convenient
+chicken-coop and pig-pen beneath. The floor was made of split bamboo
+which made sweeping easy--merely a matter of pushing the dirt
+through the cracks between the strips of bamboo.
+
+[Illustration: MARIVELES VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN, FROM MANILA BAY.]
+
+Although the smell of even a _clean_ pig under the dining-room table is
+rather objectionable at first, as is the crowing of two or three
+roosters early in the morning, it is surprising how soon one becomes
+accustomed to these little annoyances, and it simplifies domestic
+science considerably to be able to throw, from one's seat at table,
+banana skins and other scraps through a convenient hole in the floor and
+have them immediately disposed of by the pig and chickens beneath.
+
+[Illustration: OUR RESIDENCE ON "WASHINGTON STREET."]
+
+The dining room, as in many American houses, also served as a kitchen.
+The stove was a large box, elevated two or three feet from the floor,
+lined with baked clay upon which the fire is made. Large iron spikes,
+arranged in groups of three, may be imbedded in the clay to hold one or
+more pots of different sizes. There was no chimney, but a convenient
+window carried out the smoke quite effectively. The fire-wood was stored
+under the house in the pig-pen and consisted chiefly of short sticks of
+such diameter as could be easily cut with the large knife or bolo that
+the natives wear suspended from a belt at the waist. The sticks, when
+the cooking is done, are simply withdrawn from beneath the pot and lie
+ready to be pushed in again when the fire is lit for the next meal. A
+very few sticks will thus serve for cooking a large number of the simple
+native meals. Opening from the kitchen was the front door, leading to
+the ground by a flight of stairs or a ladder. Thanks to the United
+States Mariveles is supplied with abundant water, piped from some miles
+up in the mountains, and some of the better houses of the barrio have a
+private faucet on the back porch, which is luxury indeed. The main room
+of the house was used as a living room and bedroom. In such houses there
+are usually large windows, without sash of course, which are shaded by
+day and closed by night and in severe storms by a hinged awning of nipa,
+seen in the photographs. In spite of the warmth nearly all natives close
+the window shades tight when they sleep, so that, in spite of the
+numerous cracks, the ventilation must be very bad; this may partly
+account for the prevalence of tuberculosis on the islands.
+
+[Illustration: NATIVE GIRL CARRYING BASKET OF CLOTHES.]
+
+Around the better houses in such a barrio is usually seen a high fence
+generally made of closely set vertical saplings, driven into the ground
+and bound together with rattan at the top; this fence serves to keep
+the chickens in, and, at night, to keep prowling animals out.
+
+Many of the houses have a tiny store at the ground level in which a
+small stock of canned goods, native fruits, dried fish, native shoes
+etc. may be seen. One of the main department stores of Mariveles is
+shown in the accompanying photograph, with the very American sign at the
+side of the entrance.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHIEF STORE OF MARIVELES.]
+
+Like many native villages Mariveles has a large stone church, with red
+tile roof, bell tower, etc.; it is now in such bad repair as to be
+unsafe, so that a crude shed with thatched sides and corrugated iron
+roof has been built to take its place. No priest now lives in this
+barrio and the shed-like church did not have the appearance of being
+much used.
+
+The village school, on the other hand, gave every indication of
+activity. Although not housed in a very handsome building, a glance
+through the windows and door showed many students of various ages all
+apparently busy and orderly under the supervision of several neat and
+bright looking native women.
+
+On the same street with the school a link with the outside world was
+seen in the sign "Telegraph and Post Office." This office was in charge
+of a native who, unlike most of the residents of the barrio, spoke
+English. In these villages it is usually easy to find natives who speak
+Spanish, but it is frequently difficult to find one who understands
+English.
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD CHURCH.]
+
+The men of the village were mostly engaged, though not very strenuously,
+in the rice paddies or in fishing. The women looked after the
+housekeeping, washing, tending the stores, etc., and their position of
+respect and authority in the homes and in society was in marked contrast
+to that of other oriental and even of some European women.
+
+[Illustration: THE MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL.]
+
+A tiny store across the street from where we lived was tended during
+most of the day and in the evenings by an attractive young native woman
+who seemed to be quite a belle. Every evening, at about dark, a dapper
+young native, in an American suit of white, always appeared and seated
+himself upon the bench in front of the store, where he could see and
+talk to his brunette lady love without interfering with her commercial
+duties, which were not heavy. Often several other suitors appeared and,
+while it was not possible to understand what was said, since
+the conversation was all in Tagalog, from the frequent laughter it was
+evident that the girl was as able to entertain several admirers at once
+as are some of her blond sisters across the sea. Her voice was softer
+and her laugh more attractive than that of many an American belle of
+high social standing. In fact the women of this island village were, as
+a class, of remarkable dignity and modesty, so that there was probably
+less to shock one's modesty here than at many a fashionable American
+watering place. Of course ignorance of their language made it impossible
+to understand all that was going on, but to judge by their actions and
+the tones of their voices it would seem that their family life is as
+peaceful and happy as that of the average American family. It is truly
+the "simple life" that they lead, and to us it seems a very narrow one;
+yet it has its advantages over the "strenuous life" that most of us are
+compelled to live. There was little or no drunkenness or quarreling
+among the men, whose chief vice seemed to be gambling.
+
+[Illustration: THE TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE.]
+
+This gambling instinct is gratified mainly by means of the cockpit. One
+of the most familiar sights of the islands is the native man with a
+game cock or just a plain rooster under his arm. They pet and fondle
+these birds as we do cats or lap-dogs, and on Sundays (alas!) they
+gather at the cockpits to match their favorites against each other. Many
+barrios have large covered pits seating hundreds of people. The pit of
+Mariveles, which happened to be in the yard next to ours, was simply a
+square of about twenty feet enclosed by a low bamboo fence, in the shade
+of a huge acacia tree. Around this square were gathered about one
+hundred men (probably all of the men of the barrio) and two or three
+women, and we shall hope that the few women who were there to witness so
+unpleasant a spectacle were looking after their husbands to see that
+they did not bet too heavily.
+
+[Illustration: NATIVE "BANCA" NEAR MARIVELES.]
+
+Inside the square were two or three officials, and two men holding the
+two contesting birds. A man at a table outside held the stakes and
+presumably kept track of the bettors, odds, etc. Instead of the weapons
+provided by nature each bird had securely fastened to his left leg,
+in place of the spur that had been cut off, a villainously sharp
+steel spur, slightly curved and about three inches long. A well
+directed thrust from this steel weapon may kill the victim almost
+instantly, and one victim was already hanging head-down to a near-by
+tree when I entered.
+
+[Illustration: A SCHOOLHOUSE IN ILOILO.]
+
+While the bets were being arranged each bird was held, in turn, to let
+the other peck him ferociously, probably with the idea of making them
+mad enough to fight. When the bets were all arranged the birds were
+placed on the ground facing each other, and with lowered heads and neck
+feathers erected they dashed together like tigers, jumping high over
+each other and endeavoring to stab one another with their artificial
+weapons. In the one fight witnessed (and one was enough to learn the
+ways of the cockpit) both birds were soon bleeding profusely and had
+lost their desire to fight, so that the crowd called out some word and
+the cocks were picked up and "sicked" on each other again; this was
+repeated until one bird had enough and retreated ignominiously to the
+farthest corner of the pit, amid the shouts of the men who had bet on
+the other cock. In many cases, it is said, the vanquished bird is killed
+outright before he has time to retreat.
+
+The sport, while rather exciting, is certainly demoralizing, especially
+with the betting that always accompanies it.
+
+Such is the life of these simple people. Of course among the less
+civilized and the savage tribes conditions are very different, and a
+white man would not dare enter so intimately into the life of a barrio;
+in fact in some regions it is very unsafe to go outside of the army
+posts without a proper guard.
+
+As to the character of the civilized Filipinos opinion seems to differ
+among the Americans of the Islands. That they are not yet capable of
+self-government seems to be almost universally believed by Americans who
+have lived among them; and that they are not energetic as a class is
+only what might be expected in such a climate. Some Americans have a
+rather high opinion of the moral character and general trustworthiness
+of the average native; others do not hold such a high opinion of him and
+consider him the inferior of the American negro, mentally, morally and
+physically. As students in the University of the Philippines it is said
+they compare favorably with students in American universities.
+
+Doubtless there is as much variation, mental and moral, among the
+natives of the Philippine Islands as among the inhabitants of an
+Anglo-Saxon country, so that one's opinions are apt to be influenced
+by the class of natives with which he chiefly comes in contact.
+
+
+
+
+II. A VISIT TO TAY TAY.
+
+
+The cutter _Busuanga_ of the Philippine Bureau of Navigation had been
+chartered to go to Tay Tay on the Island of Palawan, to bring back to
+Manila the party of naturalists of the Bureau of Science who had been
+studying the little-known fauna and flora of that far-away island, the
+most westerly of the Philippine group.
+
+[Illustration: VILLAGE OF TAY TAY FROM THE HARBOR.]
+
+After leaving the dock at Manila at sundown we steamed out of the bay,
+past the searchlights of Corregidor and the other forts which were
+sweeping entirely across the entrance to the bay in a way that would
+immediately expose any enemy that might attempt to slip by in the dark,
+and by nine o'clock we were headed in a south-westerly direction across
+the China Sea.
+
+The next day we passed through winding passages along the Calamaines
+group where every hour brought to view new islands of the greatest
+beauty and of every size and shape. Upon one of these islands is a leper
+colony which we visited and found most interesting.
+
+[Illustration: TWO PROMINENT HOUSES IN TAY TAY.]
+
+Early on the second morning we entered the harbor of the small but
+ancient village of Tay Tay (pronounced "tie tie" and spelled in various
+ways) on the eastern shore of Palawan. Not a white man lives in this
+inaccessible hamlet and it is seldom that one visits it, as there is no
+regular communication of any sort with the outside world.
+
+The village consists of a dozen or two native huts along the beach in a
+very pretty grove of coconut trees. Back of the village is a range of
+low mountains covered with tropical jungle. The main point of interest
+is a well constructed fort of stone, built on a small promontory that
+projects out into the bay. The walls of the fort are very massive and
+are surmounted at each of the four corners by a round watch tower. On
+its land side the fort is entered through a narrow gate that leads by a
+stone stairway to the top of the promontory. On various parts of the
+walls are carvings and inscriptions showing that the different bastions
+were built at different times.
+
+[Illustration: THE SPANISH FORT AT TAY TAY.]
+
+Within the fort and overlooking the walls is an old stone church whose
+roof has long since fallen in. Within the fort is also a large
+cement-lined, stone cistern to hold water in case of siege. The Spanish
+inscriptions on the walls show that the fort was begun about 1720,
+though the mission there was established about 1620. Lying about within
+the fort are a few large iron cannon that were doubtless used by the
+Spaniards in repulsing the attacks of the Moro pirates. It was for a
+refuge from these pirates that this old fort was built nearly two
+hundred years ago in this tiny, reef-protected harbor, on an island that
+even now is unknown to a large majority of American people although it
+is a part of our territory.
+
+On the shore, just back of the fort, is another stone church whose roof
+has also fallen in; and back of this church is a small thatched bell
+tower with two very good bells of harmonious tones hanging in it. How
+long these bells have been silent it is difficult to say, but no priest
+now remains to carry on the work begun nearly three hundred years ago by
+the brave padres from Spain, and not a Spaniard now lives in that almost
+forgotten village. But for the moss-covered and still massive gray walls
+of the fort and the crumbling ruins of the two churches one would never
+imagine that this tiny village of brown men had ever been inhabited by
+subjects of the kingdom of Spain.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH WITHIN THE FORT.]
+
+In passing out of the harbor of Tay Tay we visited a small volcanic
+island of curiously weathered and water-worn limestone. Except for a
+narrow beach the sides of this island are almost perpendicular, and the
+cliffs are honeycombed with dozens of water-worn caves. Many of these
+caves are of great beauty, resembling the interiors of stone churches;
+some extend far back into the dark interior of the island, others are
+lighted by openings at the top. Many of them are beautifully colored,
+and in an accessible region would doubtless be frequently visited by
+tourists, while in their isolated location it is possible that they had
+never before been visited by white men, unless in the old Spanish days.
+It is in these and in similar caves of this region that the natives
+obtain the edible birds' nests so highly prized by some, especially the
+Chinese. The natives are said to have claims on certain caves, and any
+one found stealing nests from another man's cave is supposedly dealt
+with as a thief.
+
+[Illustration: BELL-TOWER OF THE CHURCH OUTSIDE OF THE FORT.]
+
+These curious nests are built by swifts (swallows) against the walls of
+the dark caves much in the some way as is done by our common chimney
+swifts, except that instead of cementing a number of small twigs
+together by a kind of sticky secretion or saliva, the entire nest is
+made of the sticky substance which dries into a sort of gummy mass. This
+substance has but little taste, and why the wealthy Chinese should be
+willing to pay such enormous prices ($12 to $15 per pound) for it is
+hard to understand.
+
+It is said that the first nest the bird makes in the season brings the
+highest price because it is of pure material; this nest having been
+taken the bird builds another, but, having a diminished supply of the
+secretion, it introduces some foreign matter to help out, and this
+foreign matter, of course, makes the nest less valuable as food. A third
+nest may succeed the second, but it has still more foreign matter to
+still further diminish its value. That the collection of the nests is
+attended with considerable danger is evident from the vertical, jagged
+walls of rock that must be scaled, either from below or above, to obtain
+them.
+
+[Illustration: ISLAND NEAR TAY TAY WHERE EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS ARE FOUND.]
+
+To those of us who lead busy lives in the centers of what we call
+twentieth-century civilization, life in a place so isolated from the
+rest of the world as Tay Tay seems impossible. Yet the inhabitants of
+this barrio are quite contented and fairly comfortable. They live "the
+simple life" indeed. While their resources are exceedingly limited their
+needs and desires are correspondingly few. They never suffer from cold
+and probably not often from heat or hunger: and they are not cursed with
+the ambitions that make so many of us dissatisfied with our lives.
+
+
+
+
+III. THE LEPER COLONY OF CULION.
+
+
+It was early Sunday morning when the "Busuanga" dropped anchor in the
+harbor of Culion Island, one of the Calamaines group of the Philippines,
+and two or three of us were fortunate enough to be invited to land, for
+an hour or so, to visit the leper colony that is said to be the largest
+in the world.
+
+We were met at the tiny dock by the physician-in-charge, Dr. Clements,
+and by him escorted about the colony. This physician, who has spent long
+years in these eastern lands, gives the immediate impression of a man of
+quiet force, and the work he is doing in this seldom-visited island is
+as fine a piece of missionary work, though carried on by the government,
+as can probably be found anywhere.
+
+Including the dock a few acres of the island are fenced off, and into
+this enclosure the lepers are forbidden to enter; otherwise they have
+the run of the island, but are not allowed boats for fear they would be
+used as a means of escape.
+
+Within the non-leprous enclosure are located the residences for the
+doctors and other officials; the living quarters, kitchens etc. (all of
+concrete) for the non-leprous laborers; and various shops and other such
+buildings.
+
+At the "dead line" fence between this and the leprous part of the island
+a Chinaman has a small store where the lepers can buy various articles
+such as may be seen in a small country store. The articles are in plain
+sight, but the leper is not allowed to touch anything until he has
+decided to take it; he then drops his money into a sterilizing solution
+and gets his purchase. A more modern store is being arranged by the
+government that will soon displace the _Chino_.
+
+Passing this minute store we entered the gate of the "forbidden city,"
+and, though there is no danger from merely breathing the same air with
+lepers, it gave us a rather strange sensation to be surrounded by
+thirty-four hundred poor wretches who in Biblical times would have been
+compelled to cry "Unclean! unclean!" We, of course, did not touch
+anything within the colony, though the doctors do not hesitate to touch
+even the lepers themselves.
+
+The colony proper is located on a small promontory looking eastward to
+the harbor and the Sulu Sea. At the end of this promontory is an old
+Spanish fort of stone with its enclosed church. Most of the Christian
+lepers are Roman Catholics, though there is a small Protestant church in
+the colony, in charge of a leprous native minister.
+
+[Illustration: DOCTORS' RESIDENCES AND OTHER BUILDINGS OUTSIDE OF THE
+COLONY FENCE.]
+
+The lepers are brought from the various islands of the Philippines to
+this colony so fast that it is with great difficulty that they can be
+accommodated; but all are made comfortable, in fact much more
+comfortable, in most cases, than they would ever have been at home.
+Except for homesickness, which cannot, of course, be avoided, they are
+quite happy, or as happy as any hopelessly sick people can be away from
+home and friends.
+
+Fine concrete dormitories are supplied, but many prefer to build their
+own native houses of nipa palm and bamboo. A certain amount of help is
+given the lepers in building these houses on condition that they first
+obtain a permit and build in the proper place in relation to the streets
+that have been laid out.
+
+Besides the dormitories there are several concrete kitchen buildings
+where the lepers can prepare their food in comfort.
+
+A plentiful supply of pure water is distributed by pipes to various
+convenient parts of the colony, and several concrete bath and wash
+houses are conveniently located. A concrete sewage system leads all
+sewage to the sea.
+
+[Illustration: CONCRETE DORMITORY AND NATIVE SHACKS.]
+
+In this tropical climate it is, of course, unnecessary to provide any
+means of heating the buildings. At the time of our visit a large
+amusement pavilion was nearly completed where moving pictures and other
+forms of entertainment will help pass the time for these poor wretches
+who have nothing to look forward to but a lingering death from a
+loathsome disease.
+
+A large number of the patients who are in the incipient stages showed,
+to the ordinary observer, no effects of the disease. There were others
+who at first glance seemed perfectly normal, but on closer scrutiny
+revealed the absence of one or more toes or fingers. Others had horribly
+swollen ears: some had no nose left and were distressing objects; but
+it was not until we visited the various wards of the hospital that we
+saw leprosy in all of its horror. Here were dozens of cases so far
+advanced that they were no longer able to walk; they were lying on their
+cots waiting for death to come to their release. Some were so emaciated
+as to look almost like animated skeletons. Others, except for and
+sometimes in spite of their bandages, looked like horrid, partially
+decomposed cadavers. It was a sight to make one shudder and devoutly
+hope that a cure for this awful disease may soon be discovered. These
+extreme cases are cared for carefully and their last hours are made as
+comfortable as possible.
+
+[Illustration: CONCRETE KITCHEN AND LAVATORY BUILDINGS AND NATIVE
+RESIDENCES.]
+
+As we came, out three Catholic sisters entered the women's ward to do
+what they could for the patients there.
+
+Shortly before leaving the colony we were led to a small concrete
+structure (near the furnace where all combustible waste is burned), and
+as the door was opened we saw before us on a concrete slab four bodies
+so wasted and shrivelled that they seemed scarcely human. These were
+those who had at last been cured in the only way that this dread
+disease admits of cure. About forty per month are released by death, and
+those we saw were the last crop of the here _merciful_ not "dread
+reaper."
+
+At the back of the colony we met four lepers of incipient stages
+carrying a long box on their shoulders. Just as they came abreast of us
+they set it down, to rest themselves, and we saw that in the box was
+another "cured" leper. He was being carried to the cemetery not only
+"unhonored and unsung" but also "unwept": not a single friend nor
+relative followed his wasted body to its final resting place. After this
+pitiful spectacle, added to the horrors of the hospital wards, we were
+not sorry to turn our steps back toward the boat. As we passed through
+the fence at the "dead line," going away from the colony, we were
+compelled to wade through a shallow box of water containing a small
+percentage of carbolic acid which disinfected the soles of our shoes,
+the only things about us that had come in actual contact with the leper
+colony. In this way all visitors when they leave the colony are
+compelled, not to "shake its dust from their feet" but to wash its germs
+from their soles.
+
+As an antidote for dissatisfaction with one's lot in life, or as an
+object lesson for the pessimists who claim there is no unselfishness in
+the world, or as an illustration of the value of the medical missionary,
+this little island, lying "somewhere east of Suez" between the Sulu and
+the China Seas, is not easily surpassed.
+
+
+
+
+IV. FROM ZAMBOANGA TO SINGAPORE.
+
+
+When the North German Lloyd steamer "Sandakan" left the dock at
+Zamboanga she had in the first cabin only three passengers, a Russian of
+uncertain occupation, a young lieutenant of the Philippine constabulary,
+and myself. We had, therefore, the pick of the deck staterooms, which is
+worth while when traveling within ten degrees of the equator in
+mid-summer.
+
+Zamboanga is the chief city of the island of Mindanao and is the capital
+of the turbulent Moro province, which includes the well-known island of
+Sulu with its once-famous sultan.
+
+After a night's run we tied up at the dock of Jolo, the chief town of
+the island of Sulu. Here my two companions left the ship, so that until
+we reached the next port, Sandakan, I was the only cabin passenger, and
+when the ship's officers were prevented by their duties from appearing
+at the table I had the undivided attention of the chief steward, two
+cooks, and three waiters. This line of vessels being primarily for
+freight the "Sandakan" has accommodations for less than twenty
+first-cabin passengers, and it probably seldom has anything like a full
+list on this out-of-the-way run from "Zambo" to Singapore. So far as its
+accommodations go, however, they are excellent, and a pleasanter trip of
+a week or ten days would be hard to find, in spite of the tropical heat.
+
+While the first cabin list was so small, the third class accommodations
+seemed taxed to their utmost, and the conglomeration of orientals was an
+unending source of amusement. They slept all over their deck and
+appeared happy and comfortable in spite of the fact that they seemed
+never to remove their clothes nor to bathe; it is probable that to most
+of them ten days without such luxuries was not a noticeable deprivation.
+
+Leaving Jolo, a picturesque walled city with a reputation for dangerous
+Moros (one is not supposed to go outside the walls without an armed
+guard, and many men carry a "45" at their hip at all times), we sailed
+southwest through the countless islands of the Sulu Archipelago, and
+after a run of about twenty hours passed the high red cliff at the
+entrance to the harbor of Sandakan, the capital of British North Borneo,
+and were soon alongside the dock.
+
+Sandakan is a rather pretty little town of two or three thousand
+inhabitants, including about fifty white people. It extends along the
+shore for about a mile and in the center has the athletic or recreation
+field, that is found in all these little towns, as well as the post
+office and other government buildings. In this central part of the town
+are also the Chinese stores, usually dirty, ill-smelling and
+unattractive; but there are no others. In all this region the Chinese
+seem to have a complete monopoly of the commercial business.
+
+[Illustration: THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN.]
+
+A hundred yards or more from the shore the hills rise steeply from
+sea-level to a few hundred feet, and over these hills are scattered the
+attractive bungalows of the white residents. There is also here a
+handsome stone church, overlooking the bay, with a school for native
+boys in connection with it. The hills farther from the town are heavily
+wooded, and the timber is being sawed at mills along the shore road. On
+the streets are seen men of several nationalities, Chinese, Malays,
+Moros, East Indians, and occasionally a Caucasian in his customary white
+suit and pith helmet; but of all these the most dignified and stately is
+the Indian policeman. He is tall and slender, with frequently a fine
+black beard; his head is covered with the usual white turban, set off
+with a touch of red. His gray spiral puttees generally do not quite
+reach the bottom of his khaki trousers, thus leaving his knees bare.
+Hanging from his belt is his club, similar to those carried by American
+policemen, and jangling in one hand is usually a pair of steel
+handcuffs. In passing white men he often raises his hand in a formal
+military salute that would be worthy of a major general. Altogether he
+is a most impressive personage and, with such examples constantly before
+them, it would seem incredible that the citizens should ever cause
+a-disturbance. An interesting contrast was seen in a group of men,
+sitting idly in the shade and watching eight little Chinese women
+stagger by with a huge tree trunk that would seem too heavy for an equal
+number of strong men to carry: but this is "East of Suez, where the best
+is like the worst," whatever Kipling meant by that.
+
+[Illustration: SANDAKAN FROM THE HILL.
+
+The "Sandakan" at the Dock.]
+
+At Sandakan the first cabin passenger list was increased 100 per cent by
+the advent of a young Danish rubber man--not a man made of young
+Danish rubber, but a young Dane from Singapore who had been inspecting
+rubber plantations, of which there are many on Borneo.
+
+[Illustration: BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN.]
+
+Leaving the capital city at sunset we arrived at Kudat, our next
+stopping place, early the next morning. With a very similar location
+this is a much smaller town than the preceding, consisting of four or
+five hundred people including half a dozen Caucasians. In spite of its
+small size it has a small garrison of native soldiers and the inevitable
+recreation ground. Besides this there is here a race track at which a
+meet was about to be held. Attracted probably by the races was the
+ubiquitous moving picture show, set up in a tent near the race track. It
+is impossible to escape the "movies." I attended a moving picture
+exhibition given in the cockpit of a small Philippine village about
+fifty miles out from Manila, and here was another in a still smaller
+village on the Island of Borneo, hundreds of miles from _anywhere_. In
+the same way it is impossible to escape the voice of the phonograph. On
+several occasions I have heard them in tiny nipa shacks in small
+Philippine villages, and in a Moro shack in Kudat, built on poles above
+the water, I heard the sound of what seemed a very good phonograph of
+some sort.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE WOMEN CARRYING LOG, SANDAKAN.]
+
+In the northeast corner of Borneo is its highest mountain, Kini or Kina
+Balu, the Chinese Widow, supposedly so named because of the fancied
+resemblance of its jagged top to the upturned face of a woman. It is
+really a very impressive peak and, being seen from the sea, it looks its
+full height of nearly fourteen thousand feet; being exactly under the
+sixth parallel it is, of course, too close to the equator to be
+snow-capped. Its position near the coast enabled us to enjoy it as we
+approached the island from the northeast and as we passed around and
+down the west coast, so that it was visible for nearly three days. Other
+mountain peaks of five or six thousand feet are visible along the west
+coast but they appear insignificant in comparison with old Kini Balu.
+
+[Illustration: CHINO CARRIER, SANDAKAN.]
+
+[Illustration: RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT.
+
+Movie tent in the left background.]
+
+Leaving Kudat in the evening we arrived at Jesselton the following
+morning. This is a town of about the same size and character of location
+as Kudat, but as the northern terminus of the only railroad on the
+island it seems much more of a metropolis. It has a clock-tower, too,
+the pride of every Jesseltonian heart, located in plain view of
+the railroad station so that there is no excuse for the trains leaving
+Jesselton more than two or three hours late. There is here again the
+recreation field and market house, and, of course, the usual Chinese
+stores and Indian policemen; besides this it is the home town of the
+Governor (an Englishman, of course) of British North Borneo. But the
+railroad is the chief feature of Jesselton. To be sure it is only a
+narrow gauge, but it carries people, if they are not in too big a hurry,
+and freight. The engines are of English type but the cars
+are--original, surely. There are first and third class passenger
+coaches, no second class, to say nothing of a baggage "van." The third
+class cars have simply a rough wooden bench along each side and seat
+about twenty people. The first class cars are of two types: the first is
+like the third class with the addition of cushions to the seats and
+curtains to the windows; the second kind is a sort of Pullman car; it is
+of the same size, but instead of the benches it has about half a dozen
+wicker chairs that may be moved about at will.
+
+[Illustration: MORO SHACKS AT KUDAT.
+
+In one of these a phonograph was heard.]
+
+Having a few hours to spare I decided to take a ride into the country. I
+had already climbed one of the hills where I could get a view inland to
+Kini Balu, over miles of jungle where no white man has ever been. But I
+wanted to see a little of this country, from the car-window at least. So
+I entered the station and interviewed the station master, a portly
+official of great dignity. He told me, in fair English, that the train
+on the "main line" had left for that day but that I could take a "local"
+out into the country for about three miles. This was better than
+nothing, so I climbed (and climb is the proper word) aboard the first
+class car of the local that was soon to start. I was the only
+first-class passenger and I felt like a railroad president in his
+private car. Soon after starting the conductor entered. He was a tall
+and, of course, dignified East Indian in turban and khaki uniform. He
+had the punch without which no conductor would be complete, and,
+suspended from a strap over his shoulder, was a huge canvas bag, like a
+mail bag, the purpose of which puzzled me. The fare, he told me, was
+fifteen cents to the end of the line; on giving him a twenty-cent piece
+I found the purpose of the canvas bag; it was his money bag, and he
+carefully fished from its depths my five cents change. The Borneo
+pennies are about as big as cart wheels so this bag was not so out of
+proportion as it might seem. In exchange for my fare he gave me a ticket
+marked "fifteen cents," which he gravely punched. I did not know what
+the ticket was for as I thought there would hardly be a change of
+conductors in a run of three miles, but I kept it and in about five
+minutes the dignified conductor returned and gravely took up the ticket
+again; this impressive performance was repeated on the return trip.
+
+[Illustration: HOSPITAL ON THE HILL, KUDAT.]
+
+After leaving the crowded(?) streets of the city our speed rapidly
+increased until we were traveling at a rate of not less than ten miles
+an hour, which was fast enough considering there were no airbrakes on
+the train of three cars, and we had to be ready to stop at any moment
+when somebody might want to get on or off. Doubtless the "flyers" on the
+main line of the British North Borneo State Railroad run at even greater
+speeds than this. The dignity of the officials of this miniature
+railroad was most interesting, and was almost equal to that of a negro
+porter on the Empire State Express.
+
+[Illustration: CLUB HOUSE AT JESSELTON.]
+
+Leaving this railroad center early the next morning we arrived, before
+dark, at our last stop in Borneo, Labuan. We had added 50 per cent to
+our cabin passenger list at Jesselton by taking aboard a young English
+engineer from South Africa.
+
+[Illustration: PASSENGER TRAIN ON THE B. N. B. S. R. R. AT JESSELTON.]
+
+The Island of Labuan upon which the town of the same name is situated
+lies just off the northwest coast of Borneo. It came under the
+protectorate of Great Britain in 1846 and, though small, has a more
+up-to-date appearance than any of the other towns visited. The stores
+are mainly of concrete with red tile or red-painted corrugated iron
+roofs, which, among the tall coconut palms, are very attractive in
+appearance. There is one main street, parallel to the beach line, that
+is extended as a modern, oiled road for some miles into the country.
+Along this road are the very attractive official buildings, each with
+its sign in front; also the recreation field and the residences of the
+few white inhabitants. All of the streets are clean and have deep cement
+gutters on the sides that lead to the sea or to the various lagoons that
+extend through the town. Water pipes also extend along the streets with
+openings at convenient intervals. Extensive coal mines are located near
+the town, but for some reason they were not profitable and the cars and
+docks for handling coal are now nearly all idle. On one of the lagoons
+is a rather artistic Chinese temple of concrete, well built and in good
+repair.
+
+On the main street is a school, and, seeing a crowd of natives at the
+door, I joined the throng to see what was going on inside. It proved to
+be the singing hour, and about fifty little Chinese boys, from six to
+ten years of age, all in neat khaki uniforms, were singing at the tops
+of their voices, led by a very active Chinese man. The little fellows
+seemed to enjoy the singing thoroughly, and, after hearing several
+songs, all in Chinese, of course, to strange and unusual tunes, I was
+surprised to recognize one of the tunes--it was "John Brown's body
+lies amoulding in the grave" though what the words were I was unable to
+tell since, like the other songs, they were in Chinese.
+
+[Illustration: BORNEAN BOAT AT JESSELTON.]
+
+At Labuan the last of our cabin passengers came aboard, two Englishmen,
+one a mining engineer, the other a government man. Since no more stops
+were to be made in Borneo, the Sandakan headed in a southwest direction
+straight for Singapore, and in exactly three days we entered that busy
+harbor and dropped anchor among the more than two dozen other ocean
+liners from all parts of the world.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN STREET AT LABUAN.]
+
+[Illustration: POST OFFICE AND RECREATION GROUND AT LABUAN.]
+
+Singapore is one of the busiest seaports in the world and the hundreds
+of vessels of all sizes and types against the background of handsome
+white and cream-colored buildings make a very interesting and impressive
+sight.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE TEMPLE AT LABUAN.]
+
+Thus ended a most interesting voyage of nine days, through a region
+seldom visited by any but a few Englishmen who are interested in some
+way in the development of that, as yet, little developed part of the
+world. Although it is a trip that is easily arranged by visitors to the
+Philippines it is one that is seldom taken by the tourist.
+
+
+
+
+V. SINGAPORE, THE MELTING POT OF THE EAST.
+
+
+In Singapore, it is said, can be seen more races of men than at any
+other one spot in the world, so that it has been well named "The Melting
+Pot of the East." It is also sometimes spoken of as "The Gateway of the
+East," since all vessels bound for ports in the Far East call there.
+
+[Illustration: HONGKONG BANK AND PUBLIC SQUARE.]
+
+It is said, perhaps without sufficient historical evidence, that the
+town was first settled by Malays in 1360 A. D.; but as a port of any
+importance its history begins in 1819 when it was ceded by Jahore to
+Great Britain through the instrumentality of Sir Stamford Raffles, whose
+name is perpetuated in connection with many of the local institutions.
+
+[Illustration: A CHINESE RESIDENCE STREET.]
+
+[Illustration: A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE.]
+
+In the early days, in fact until the introduction of steamships, there
+was much annoyance and danger from pirates at sea and robbers on land,
+but that of course is now long past and one is as safe here as in any
+other part of the world.
+
+The present-day Singapore is a thriving town of more than 250,000
+inhabitants, and is one of the busiest harbors in the world; more than
+three dozen sea-going steamships may sometimes be seen in the harbor at
+the same time, and the number of rowboats and other small craft is
+legion.
+
+[Illustration: VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL AND SINGAPORE CRICKET CLUB.]
+
+On landing one is fairly overwhelmed by the _rickisha_ men, for the
+_jinrikisha_, the two-wheeled Japanese cart, is _the_ method of travel
+in Singapore, though one may hire a pony wagon (_ghari_), or even an
+automobile at very reasonable rates. As to the electric cars, or
+"trams," the less said the better; they would disgrace a city of
+one-tenth the size of Singapore.
+
+The streets are excellent and are nearly all level, so that the
+rickishas, usually pulled by Chinese, make good time. Many residents own
+their own rickisha and hire the man by the month; more well-to-do
+people, and there are many wealthy people both native and foreign in
+Singapore, have their own teams and automobiles.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCOTCH KIRK.]
+
+While there are regular rickisha stands in different parts of town,
+especially near the hotels and other public places, there are few
+streets so unfrequented that one cannot "pick up" a rickisha at a
+moment's notice. Umbrellas are scarcely needed, for in case of a shower
+one may call a rickisha to the curb and be whisked to his destination
+dryshod. In fact there is very little walking done in Singapore,
+especially by Europeans; it is so easy to get into the ever-present and
+alluring rickisha. Moreover, it is very hot in the sun, for Singapore is
+only a little more than one degree from the equator. There is a regular
+scale of prices for public vehicles, but the newcomer is always
+"spotted" and is charged double or treble the regular fare until he
+learns better than to heed the pathetic or indignant protests of the
+rickisha men.
+
+[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. BUILDING. Methodist Church in left
+background.]
+
+[Illustration: ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE.]
+
+Like other cities in the East Singapore is a mixture of beauty and
+squalor. In the region of the banks, steamship offices, and wholesale
+houses there are many handsome buildings: but in the Chinese districts
+that make up the greater part of the business section, for the Chinese
+merchants far outnumber all others, there are narrow crowded streets,
+small houses, and large and variagated smells. There is also a
+notorious and wide-open red-light district that is a disgrace to a
+modern and supposedly civilized town.
+
+While the saloon is not particularly in evidence the indulgence in
+_stengahs_ (Malay for _half_), or whiskey and sodas, is well-nigh
+universal among the European population, not always excluding the women
+and clergy. Since alcohol is said to be particularly dangerous in the
+tropics it would be interesting to know the total effect of this general
+indulgence. It is generally conceded that after a few years of tropical
+life Europeans must go home to recuperate; it would be interesting to
+know if the use of strong alcoholics bears any relation to the frequency
+of these necessary trips to temperate regions.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+Certainly life seems easy and pleasant in Singapore, especially among
+government officials. About eight or nine o'clock in the morning a
+stream of rickishas, carriages and automobiles carries the men down town
+from their pleasant and often very handsome homes uptown or in the
+suburbs. Many of the finest of these homes are owned by wealthy Chinese
+merchants. About five in the afternoon the stream sets in the other
+direction, carrying those whose day's work is over back to their cool
+villas or to some recreation ground where tennis, cricket, golf, or
+football may be enjoyed for an hour or two before dark. Dinner is
+usually between seven and eight and is over in time for evening
+entertainments which begin late. Although too far from the beaten tracks
+frequently to enjoy first-class dramatic talent, there are the
+ubiquitous "movies," and for the transient visitor the Malay and Chinese
+theaters are of great interest.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+An excellent race course provides entertainment of that sort at frequent
+intervals. For the more serious-minded the extensive Raffles Museum and
+Library is centrally and beautifully located.
+
+The beautiful Anglican Cathedral is the largest church in the city, and
+many other denominations possess smaller but attractive churches.
+
+The central building of all is the beautiful Victoria Memorial Hall with
+its tall clock tower and chimes. In front of this white building is the
+black statue of an elephant, presented to the city by the king of Siam
+to commemorate the first visit ever paid to a foreign city by a Siamese
+monarch. In the neighborhood of the Cathedral and Memorial Hall are the
+hotels, which are good in most respects but whose charges to transient
+guests are usually exorbitant: here is also the main recreation field
+where cricket, tennis and football are played every afternoon by both
+natives and Europeans.
+
+[Illustration: A HINDU TEMPLE.
+
+Rickishas passing.]
+
+While these churches, residences and parks (including the well-known
+botanical gardens) are interesting, it is the oriental element that has
+the greatest charm for those from other lands. A rickisha ride through
+the teeming streets of the Chinese or Malay quarters, especially at
+night, is most interesting. If taken during the day a Chinese funeral
+procession with its banners, bands and tom-toms may be met; in fact the
+death-rate among the squalid Chinese residents is so high that funerals
+are of very frequent occurrence.
+
+[Illustration: THE MOSQUE AT JAHORE.]
+
+At the docks and other gathering places one is fascinated by the
+constantly shifting sea of strange faces and costumes; sometimes the
+lack of costume is more noticeable than the costume, as among the
+coolies or laborers from India or Arabia. Chinese, Japanese, various
+races of Malays and East Indians, jostle elbows with Englishmen,
+Americans and every other race under the sun except perhaps, the
+American Indian. It is surely a motley throng and the tower of Babel
+was nowhere compared to this conglomeration of tongues.
+
+The oriental is a rather mild individual as a rule and wrangling and
+fighting is probably less common than among occidental communities.
+
+Several interesting temples are to be seen in Singapore; their quaint
+architecture is always interesting to the occidental tourist, and the
+hideous images to be seen within will repay the trouble of removing
+one's shoes, which must be done before admittance is granted.
+
+[Illustration: CANAL AND MARKET PLACE AT JAHORE.]
+
+When the sights of the city have been exhausted a visit to Jahore on the
+mainland (Singapore is on a small island) of the Malay Peninsula will be
+interesting. Here is the summer palace of H. H. the Sultan of Jahore;
+also a large and handsome mosque. Here is also a wide-open gambling
+establishment where hundreds of Chinese may be seen playing "fantan."
+
+On the return from Jahore, if interested in such things, a visit to a
+rubber estate may be made, and the whole process in the manufacture of
+rubber may be seen in a few hours; it is a strange and fascinating
+process and is, perhaps, the most important industry of the Federated
+Malay States.
+
+It is interesting to compare Singapore which has been a British colony
+for nearly a century with Manila, a city of about the same size, that
+has been under American rule for less than two decades. The results that
+have been accomplished in the latter place along the lines of
+sanitation, education, and other civilizing influences should make an
+American proud of his native land.
+
+
+
+
+VI. HOW RUBBER IS MADE.
+
+
+One of the principal products of the Malay Peninsula is rubber. Like
+most people who have never happened to investigate the matter my ideas
+as to the way in which an automobile tire is extracted from a tree were
+very hazy; so, with another American, who had charge of a mission
+school in Singapore, I boarded the Jahore express on the F. M. S. R. R.
+(F. M. S. meaning Federated Malay States) and after a run of half an
+hour arrived at the Bukit Timar rubber estate some ten miles northwest
+of Singapore.
+
+The Bukit Timar is an up-to-date plantation of more than one hundred
+thousand trees, and here we saw the whole process, from tree to sheet
+rubber, as shipped to all parts of the world and sold by the pound.
+Rubber trees grow to a considerable size, but this being a young
+plantation most of the trees were not over six or eight inches in
+diameter. In the middle of the estate was a very attractive bungalow
+where lived the manager and his wife, a young English couple, and the
+former very courteously showed us about his place and explained the
+different processes.
+
+"Tapping" begins at daybreak, and all the juice or _latex_ is collected
+before noon. Dozens of native and Chinese men and boys are employed in
+this process, some of the latter being so small that they can scarcely
+carry the two buckets of latex on the bamboo stick over the shoulder.
+
+In tapping, a very thin and narrow piece of bark is gouged off, just
+deep enough to make the tree bleed, but not deep enough to kill it; so
+that by the time the bark on one side of the tree has been cut away that
+on the opposite side has had time to regenerate. The process is thus a
+perpetual one and the tree lasts indefinitely.
+
+The exact method of tapping varies, but usually it is begun as two
+slanting grooves that converge to form a V. The latex oozes from the
+freshly cut bark, runs down the converging grooves to their point of
+union, and is caught in a small glass cup or other vessel suspended
+under a tiny spout at the apex of the V. The method of tapping shown in
+the photograph is different from this somewhat, though the principle is
+the same. The latex that oozes from the grooves is a pure white, sticky
+fluid resembling milk; about a tablespoonful is obtained each day from
+each tree.
+
+By the time each man has tapped or gouged all of the trees assigned to
+him (perhaps two or three hundred) the first-tapped trees have bled all
+they will for that day, so that collecting is begun at once. In each cup
+is a little water to prevent the latex from coagulating and sticking to
+the bottom.
+
+[Illustration: HOME OF THE MANAGER OF THE BUKIT TIMAR RUBBER ESTATE
+NEAR SINGAPORE.]
+
+The first V is cut several feet from the ground, and the amount that is
+gouged from each side of the V each day is so very thin that it will be
+months before the apex of the V reaches the ground, by which time the
+regeneration of the first cuts will be well under way.
+
+After the flow of latex has ceased for the day a narrow strip hardens
+along each groove, like gum on a cherry tree. These little strips of
+rubber, with bits of adherent bark, as well as any drops that may have
+fallen to the ground, are collected in bags and carried to the factory
+to be made into sheets of cheap grades of commercial rubber.
+
+[Illustration: A YOUNG RUBBER TREE SHOWING ONE METHOD OF TAPPING.
+
+    The white lines are the latex running down the grooves into the
+    glass cup at the bottom. Above the two slanting lines is seen
+    the scarred tissue where the bark has been gouged away. When the
+    lower end of the lower line reaches the ground the tree will be
+    tapped on the opposite side. The amount of latex in the cup
+    seems greater than it really is because of the water upon which
+    it floats. The size of the tree may be judged from the kodak
+    case at its foot.]
+
+After the trees have been tapped the latex is collected in carefully
+cleaned tin buckets, brought to the factory and strained into huge
+earthenware tubs. It is then put into enamelware pans about twelve by
+thirty-six inches in size and three inches deep, and a very weak acid
+(usually acetic) is stirred into it. In about half an hour the acid
+coagulates the latex (like rennet in making junket from milk) into a
+soft, pure white mass, about two inches thick and of the area of the
+pan. This soft mass of rubber is carefully floated out of the pan onto a
+table, where it is rolled on both sides for a few minutes with a wooden
+rolling-pin to squeeze out the excess of water and acid. It is then
+carefully lifted into a large vessel of pure water to harden until the
+next day.
+
+[Illustration: THREE LATEX GATHERERS.
+
+    The boy in the middle of the group has the canvass bag over his
+    shoulder in which he carries the scraps of dried rubber from the
+    grooves on the trees.]
+
+The next day it is run several times through smooth steel rollers under
+dropping water, where it is flattened out into sheets of about an inch
+or less in thickness and of a proportionately greater area. It is next
+passed through roughened steel rollers that mark it off into ridges and
+depressions like a waffle.
+
+These sheets, now tough and elastic, are hung in a closed chamber and
+smoked until they reach a proper shade of brown, when they are ready for
+shipment. The smoking process, which is to preserve the rubber, often
+takes many days, though at the time of our visit the manager of the
+Bukit Timar estate was experimenting with a method that would complete
+the smoking in a few hours.
+
+The production of rubber in the Malay Peninsula is of rather recent date
+and it has increased by leaps and bounds. In the various "booms" that
+have taken place many fortunes have been made--as witnessed by the
+palatial residences about Singapore--but many have also been lost,
+though the witnesses to these are not so evident.
+
+[Illustration: THE TRAVELER PALM, AN UNUSUAL TYPE OFTEN SEEN IN THE FAR
+EAST SINGAPORE AND ELSEWHERE.]
+
+Whether the increased demands for rubber will justify the thousands of
+young trees that are still being planted, not only on the Malay
+Peninsula but on Borneo and other islands of the Far East, remains to be
+seen; but, judging from the opinions of several rubber experts of
+Singapore, this is quite doubtful.
+
+
+
+
+VII. TWO CHINESE CITIES.
+
+
+After a voyage (unusually calm for the China Sea) of four days from
+Singapore, the S. S. "Bülow" slowly steamed among the islands at
+the entrance and came to anchor just after sunset in the beautiful
+harbor of Hongkong. There is really no _city_ of Hongkong, though
+letters so directed will reach their destination, and even the residents
+of the city in whose harbor we were anchored would have spoken of living
+in Hongkong. The name "Hongkong" belongs to the small island, ten miles
+long by three wide, that lies about a mile from the mainland of China.
+Along the north or land side of this island lies the city of Victoria,
+with a population of 350,000, commonly known by the name of the entire
+island, Hongkong.
+
+Practically the whole island is occupied by mountains of a maximum
+height of about 1800 feet, so that the town has only a narrow strip of
+level ground along the beach and extends in scattered fashion to the
+very top of the ridge.
+
+As we came to anchor the twinkling lights of the streets and houses were
+just beginning to appear, and in a little while, when the short tropical
+twilight had changed to darkness, the shore line was a mass of lights
+which gradually became more scattered toward the hill-tops, where often
+a single light marked the location of some isolated residence. Across
+the harbor another smaller group of lights showed the position of
+Kowloon, a small seaport on the mainland and the southern terminus of
+the Kowloon and Canton Railroad. On the water between the two towns,
+really one great harbor, were thousands of lights, indicating the
+position of invisible steamships, junks, tugs, launches and sampans.
+Most of these lights were stationary, showing that the vessels to which
+they belonged were at anchor, but some of them were in motion, and
+hardly had we come slowly to a standstill and dropped anchor before we
+were besieged by a swarm of launches and sampans all clamoring for
+passengers to take ashore.
+
+As is customary in the East, steamers usually anchor in the harbor at
+Hongkong at some distance from shore, so that the larger hotels, as well
+as Cook's Agency, have private launches to take passengers ashore. Since
+it was rather late to see anything of the town most of the cabin
+passengers preferred to remain on board for the night, and the view of
+the lights of the harbor and town as seen from the ship was well worth
+enjoying for one evening.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW ON "THE PEAK"; GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE IN THE LEFT
+BACKGROUND.]
+
+The next morning we were able to see the meaning of the lights of the
+night before. The business part of the town, with its crowded Chinese
+sections and its fine municipal and office buildings, lies as a narrow
+strip along the shore, while struggling up the mountain side are the
+residences, churches, schools, etc. of the English and wealthy Chinese
+residents. On this mountain side is also a most beautiful and
+interesting botanical garden. On the highest point of "The Peak," as the
+main peak of the range is called, is a weather observatory and signal
+station, and from this point one of the most beautiful views in the
+world may be obtained; to the south, the open China Sea, with numberless
+green islands extending almost to the horizon; to the north, the
+mainland of China, fringed with low mountains; between the mainland and
+the island the long, narrow strait forming the harbors of Victoria and
+Kowloon; at the foot of the mountain the densely crowded business
+streets; and extending up the almost precipitous northern slopes of the
+mountain the beautiful, often palatial homes of the wealthy residents.
+Winding along the mountain sides a number of fine roads and paths give
+access to these homes, but to reach the higher levels, especially, there
+may be seen the cable tramway, going so straight up the side of the
+mountain that it is almost alarming to look forward or back from the
+open cars. The homes nearer the foot of the mountain are usually reached
+by means of sedan chairs carried by two, three or even four coolies,
+while in the level business section the usual means of travel are the
+electric cars and the ever-ready rickishas. Horses are practically
+unknown except for racing purposes; carts are pulled by Chinese coolies
+instead of by horses, and merchandise is carried by coolies in baskets
+or bales on the shoulders. It is an interesting though unpleasant sight
+to see strings of Chinese men and women toiling up the steep sides of
+the mountain, carrying stones, cement, window frames, timbers, and all
+other material used in building the palaces in which the wealthy people
+live. For a day of this back-breaking labor they are paid about what one
+of their rich employers would give for one of his best cigars. Every
+stick, stone and nail in all of these houses has been carried up all
+these hundreds of feet on the backs of men and women, chiefly the
+latter.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE JUNKS IN THE HARBOR OF CANTON.]
+
+In a beautiful little level valley between the bases of two of the
+mountains is the play ground of Hongkong, known as "Happy Valley"; here
+are tennis courts, a golf course, etc. overlooked on either side, rather
+incongruously, by a Chinese and a Christian burial ground.
+
+Having visited the various points of interest about Hongkong, which is
+really a part of the British Empire (ceded by the Chinese in 1841)
+though a vast majority of its residents are Chinese, I decided to have a
+look at a real Chinese city, Canton, located about ninety miles up the
+Canton River. As Canton happened to be in the throes of a revolution at
+that time, people were flocking by the thousands from there to Hongkong.
+Cook's Agency was warning people to keep away, and Hongkong papers had
+as headlines "Serious Outlook in Canton"; but I did not expect ever to
+have another chance to visit this typical Chinese city, so I boarded one
+of the boats of the French line that left Hongkong late in the evening
+for the run up the river. I learned later that one of these boats had
+been "shot up" a few days before by the revolutionists, and that a
+number of the passengers had been killed. However we were not molested,
+and reached Canton about eight the next morning.
+
+After daylight we were able to get an idea of the country on either bank
+of the muddy river; it was low and marshy, every acre being planted in
+rice. Occasionally, on a slight elevation, would be seen a pagoda-shaped
+temple, standing lonely among the rice fields, where doubtless it had
+stood for many centuries.
+
+At frequent intervals we passed small native boats, some of them with
+sails and loaded with goods, most of them rowed by one or more oars. It
+was to be noticed that when there was only one oar it was being worked
+vigorously by a woman, while a man sat comfortably in the stern and
+steered. These people were evidently going from the crowded villages in
+which they lived to work in the rice fields.
+
+At Canton the river, which is there only a few hundred yards wide, was
+jammed with craft of all kinds, including one or two small war vessels
+and hundreds, probably thousands, of _sampans_. The latter carry
+passengers and small quantities of freight; they are roofed over more or
+less completely and serve as the homes of the owners' families, all the
+members of which take a hand in the rowing.
+
+[Illustration: SAMPANS IN THE HARBOUR OF CANTON.]
+
+The foreign (mostly English and French) quarter of Canton is known as
+"the Shameen" (meaning sand-bank), a small island in the river
+connected with the city proper by a couple of bridges. It has
+beautifully shaded streets and fine houses, and is utterly different
+from the Chinese Canton. At the Shameen's one hotel, which charges the
+modest rate of from four to eight dollars per day for very ordinary
+service, I was told that conditions were "very uncertain" and that
+nobody was allowed to enter the walled city after 9 P. M. without a
+pass.
+
+[Illustration: A WIDE STREET IN CANTON.]
+
+A guide having thrust his services upon me before I could get off the
+boat, we left the Shameen, crossed one of the bridges and plunged into
+the network of streets where, without a guide, a stranger would be lost
+in a few minutes.
+
+In a few of the streets outside of the walled city rickishas are the
+usual means of travel, but inside the walls most of the streets are too
+narrow for rickishas to pass one another, and paving of large flagstones
+is too rough for wheels, so that the sedan chair is the only means of
+locomotion except one's own legs. My self-appointed guide said he would
+get chairs for seven dollars per day ($3.00 in American money) but I
+told him I expected to walk and that if he wanted to go with me he would
+have to do likewise; he immediately professed to think that walking was
+the only way to go, so we agreed to see the town afoot. After we had
+walked pretty briskly for three or four hours he inquired meekly, "Can
+you walk this way all day?" People in the tropics are not usually fond
+of walking, but Ping Nam was "game" and made no further remarks about my
+method of locomotion. Some of the less frequented streets where there
+were no sun-screens overhead were very hot, but in the busy streets the
+sun was almost excluded by bamboo screens and by the walls of the houses
+on each side, so that the heat was not nearly so oppressive as might be
+expected in so terribly congested a city. Many of these streets were so
+narrow that a tall man could touch the houses on each side with
+outstretched hands.
+
+On each side were stores of all sorts with open fronts with gay signs
+and with gayly colored goods on display, making a picture of wonderful
+fascination and everchanging interest.
+
+Although we wandered for hour after hour through a perfect wilderness of
+such streets we saw not a single white person; it seemed as though I
+were the only Caucasian among the more than a million Asiatics, though
+this, of course, was not actually the case.
+
+In the busier streets the crowds filled the space from wall to wall, so
+that when a string of coolies came along, bearing burdens in the usual
+manner from a stick over the shoulder and humming the cheerful though
+monotonous "get-out-of-the-way" tune, we had to step aside, close
+against or into some store to let them pass; and when an occasional
+chair came along it swept the entire traffic aside as a taxi might in a
+crowded alley of an American city.
+
+In spite of the density of the population the people all seemed happy
+and contented; even the little children with faces covered with sores,
+as was often the case, appeared cheerful, and ran and played like other
+children.
+
+In the stores the people could be watched at work of all kinds, from
+blacksmithy to finest filigree silver work inlaid with the tiny colored
+feathers of the brightly colored kingfisher; and from rough carpenter
+work to the finest ivory carving for which the Chinese are famous. Of
+course the amount they pay for some of this work of extreme skill is
+ridiculously small, yet their living expenses are so small that they
+are doubtless in better circumstances than many of the workers in our
+larger cities.
+
+The silk-weavers, working at their primitive looms in crowded rooms,
+excite one's sympathy more than most of the other workers, though they
+too seemed to be quite cheerful over their monotonous tasks.
+
+[Illustration: COURT OF AN ANCESTRAL TEMPLE IN CANTON.]
+
+Through these crowded streets we wandered, the sight of a white man and
+a camera exciting some interest, though not a great deal. Canton is said
+to have been the scene of more outrages of one sort or another than any
+other city in the world, but in spite of the fact that a revolution was
+supposed to be in progress we saw no signs of disorder. There were
+soldiers and armed policemen everywhere, and groups of people were
+frequently seen reading with interest proclamations posted at various
+places; what the nature of the proclamations was I was, of course, not
+able of myself to learn, and Ping Nam did not seem to care to enlighten
+me, possibly thinking he might scare me out of town and thus lose his
+job.
+
+Occasionally stopping to watch some skilful artisan at work or to make
+some small purchase, we went from place to place visiting temples and
+other objects of especial interest. Some of these temples are centuries
+old, others are comparatively new. Some are comparatively plain, others
+like the modern Chun-ka-chi ancestral temple, which is said to have cost
+$750,000 "gold," are wonderfully ornate, with highly colored carvings
+and cement mouldings. Others are of interest chiefly because of the
+hideous images they contain; one of these has hundreds of these idols
+and is hence known as the "Temple of the Five Hundred Genii."
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE "TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII,"
+CANTON.]
+
+After visiting several of these temples and the picturesque flowery
+pagoda we set out for the famous water clock that is said to have been
+built more than thirteen hundred years ago. It is now located in a dark
+little room in the top of an old house and is reached by a winding
+flight of outside stone stairs. It consists of four large jars of water,
+one above the other, so that the water may run slowly, at a definite
+rate, from the upper to the lower jars, and gradually raise, in the
+lowest jar, a float with an attached vertical scale that tells the time.
+In the window visible from the street below signs are placed at
+intervals that tell the time indicated by the clock.
+
+From the water clock we visited the ancient "City of the Dead," a small
+cemetery just outside one of the old city gates. These gates, some of
+which are large and imposing, pierce the dilapidated wall at intervals.
+The wall, about six miles in circumference, is surrounded by the remains
+of a moat, now chiefly useful as an addition to the picturesque
+landscape and as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The top of a city
+gate, reached by a winding stone stairway from within, is a convenient
+place from which to view the densely crowded roofs of the adjacent part
+of the city.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON.]
+
+From the "City of the Dead" we made for the fairly wide street along the
+river front; here we took rickishas, much to the relief of my tired
+guide, to say nothing of my tired self, and were soon at the Canton
+terminus of the K. & C. R. R. The station was thronged with people
+waiting for the Kowloon express.
+
+The road-bed of the K. & C. R. R. is excellent, and the cars and
+engine, all of English make, made a very respectable appearance.
+
+For nearly half of the distance to Kowloon I had my section of the one
+first-class car to myself, as I was the only Caucasian on the train:
+then an English civil engineer and his family came aboard and shared my
+compartment for the rest of the way. The second-and third-class cars,
+of which there were half a dozen or more, were crowded with natives,
+with boxes and bundles of all sorts and sizes.
+
+[Illustration: A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN FROM
+THE "CITY OF THE DEAD," CANTON.]
+
+After making the run of about ninety miles in something less than three
+hours we reached the ferry at Kowloon, and in a quarter of an hour more
+we were again in Hongkong, as different from Canton as though it were on
+the other side of the world instead of being only three hours away.
+
+
+
+
+VIII. MEANDERINGS IN MODERN MANILA.
+
+
+Manila, after twenty years of American control, is a fascinating mixture
+of past and present; of romance and commercialism; of oriental ease and
+occidental hustle.
+
+Enter through one of the beautiful old city gates, say the Santa Lucia,
+which bears the date 1781, and one finds himself in the old or walled
+city, Intramuros, still very Spanish in its appearance, though the
+government offices and other public buildings are here located. The
+massive gray stone wall, started in the early part of the seventeenth
+century, was originally surrounded by a moat, with drawbridges. It is
+said that a very efficient American official once suggested the
+desirability of having the wall whitewashed; fortunately his idea was
+not carried out.
+
+In contrast to the comparative quiet of the narrow streets of the
+Intramuros the docks along the Pasig River, that flows through the heart
+of the town, present a scene of bustle and confusion worthy of a city of
+its size, some 300,000 inhabitants. Here may be seen vessels of all
+sorts, from all parts of the world: steamships, junks, tugs, rowboats,
+and _cascos_, the last being the name given the native barge for
+carrying freight. The casco is covered by a roof of matting, made in
+sliding sections, with a cabin in the stern where the family of the
+owner lives.
+
+While there is an excellent electric street railway system and plenty of
+automobiles to be had, the common method of getting about is to 'phone
+for, or to hail, a passing one-horse vehicle, of which there are three
+distinct types charging different fares for the same service; the more
+expensive vehicles are, however, more comfortable and have better
+horses. Like the taxi-driver of New York or the rickisha-man of
+Singapore the driver of the _caratella_ or _caramata_ will charge all
+the traffic will bear, and it is well for the newcomer to inquire of an
+old resident what the proper fare for a given distance is before
+starting.
+
+[Illustration: SANTA LUCIA GATE.
+
+One of the entrances to the Walled City. Erected 1781.]
+
+The typical vehicle for hauling freight is the low, two-wheeled cart,
+drawn by the slow-moving, long-horned _carabao_ or water buffalo, one of
+the most characteristic animals of the islands. This beast is
+well-named, since it delights to lie buried in a muddy pool of water,
+with just its head above the surface. It may be seen in the larger
+lakes, swimming or wading in the deeper waters at a distance from the
+shore. In the cities it is a quiet, peaceful brute that one brushes
+against without a thought, but in the country, where is browses in the
+open fields, it behooves the white man to be very circumspect as he
+passes in its neighborhood, for it seems to have an aversion to the
+Caucasian race and will frequently charge in a very unpleasant, not to
+say dangerous, way. It is said that the carabao never shows this
+hostility toward the natives. A peculiarity of the law is such that
+should a man shoot a dangerous carabao to protect his own life he would
+have to pay for the animal he killed.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY.
+
+Seen from the outside.]
+
+Of course for small amounts of freight, in Manila as in all places in
+the Orient, the ubiquitous Chinese coolie is the usual means of
+transportation, and with a huge load at each end of a bamboo pole across
+his shoulder he shambles along with a curious gait, between a walk and a
+run, that he seems capable of sustaining for an almost indefinite time.
+
+[Illustration: PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA.
+
+Casco in right foreground, with matting roof.]
+
+The "Chino" of course is the merchant of Manila as of all the cities of
+this part of the world. The main shopping street, the Escolta, is fairly
+lined with Chinese stores of all sorts, some of them quite extensive;
+and some of the narrower side streets, in the same neighborhood, have
+practically no other stores than those kept by the Chinese. It is
+wonderfully interesting to wander about these narrow, winding streets,
+and into the dark, sometimes ill-smelling stores, but one should early
+learn the gentle art of "jewing down" the prices that are first asked
+for goods that are offered for sale. The Oriental always asks much more
+than he is willing or even eager to accept. You ask the price of a
+garment, say, and are told "Two pesos": you shake your head and say "Too
+much": "Peso and half" will then be tried: you again say "Too much" and
+perhaps turn as though to leave the shop; "How much you give?" says the
+crafty merchant; "One peso," perhaps you suggest; "Take it," says the
+eager merchant as he hands you an article that should probably sell for
+half the amount paid. You leave the store feeling good over having
+gotten ahead of the crafty Oriental, and he probably chuckles to himself
+over having cheated the rich American.
+
+[Illustration: A CARAMATA.
+
+The taxi of the lower classes in Manila.]
+
+[Illustration: A CARABAO AND CART.]
+
+Most of the shopping is done in the morning or late in the afternoon.
+For several hours, during the heat of the day, many of the stores are
+closed while the proprietors enjoy a midday lunch and siesta.
+
+[Illustration: PLAZA DE SANTO TOMAS.]
+
+When tired of shopping or sight-seeing one may wander into a nearby
+church or rest in some public park or square, such as the Plaza de Santo
+Tomas. Many of these old squares are exceedingly picturesque and
+attractive.
+
+The different sections of the city are given distinct names, as though
+they were separate towns, but they are separated by imaginary lines
+only. In one of the more residential of these sections is the great
+Manila General Hospital, an up-to-date, modern plant; nearby is the main
+part of the University of the Philippines, whose students, it is said,
+compare quite favorably with the average college students of America. In
+this same neighborhood is also the main part of the Philippine Bureau of
+Science, where trained chemists, geologists, botanists, zoologists,
+bacteriologists, engineers, and other scientific experts are engaged in
+numerous lines of investigation of importance to the welfare of the
+islands. Most of these experts have, in the past, been drawn from the
+United States, as have the professors in the University. Just what will
+be the condition of affairs in these high-grade institutions when the
+islands are entirely under native control is somewhat problematic.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES.]
+
+While the hotels are not numerous in Manila one may secure the best of
+modern service by going to the Manila Hotel, down on the water-front,
+just off the great promenade and playground known as the Lunetta, where
+everybody goes at night to see everybody else and to listen to the band.
+Or one may see more of the native, especially the Spanish, life of the
+town by stopping at the Hotel de Spain, in the heart of the town, just
+off the Escolta. Here one may be quite, if not luxuriously, comfortable
+at a much more reasonable rate, and may enjoy watching the Spanish and
+other foreign guests of the hotel instead of the usual crowd of military
+and other well-dressed Americans that frequent the Manila Hotel.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE PHILIPPINE BUREAU OF SCIENCE.]
+
+Although the population of Manila largely adheres to the Roman Catholic
+Church, many of the Protestant denominations have churches of their own,
+and a flourishing Y. M. C. A., with a fine, modern building, is
+available for the men of the city.
+
+Life in such a town is certainly very attractive, and there is a charm
+about the place that makes one wish to return; but it is a long, long
+way from home and from many of the things that may be had only in the
+greater countries of Europe and America.
+
+
+
+
+IX. A PACIFIC PARADISE, HONOLULU.
+
+
+The long voyage to or from the Orient is delightfully interrupted by the
+stop at Honolulu, capital of the Hawaiian Islands, about 2,100 miles
+southwest of San "Francisco. This interesting group of volcanic islands
+named in 1778 by their discoverer, Jas. Cook, the Sandwich Islands after
+the Earl of Sandwich, then Lord of the British Admiralty, is said to be
+the most isolated group of inhabited islands in the world. It is
+possible that the real discoverer of the islands was not Jas. Cook, but
+a Spanish seaman named Juan Gaetano, who sighted them in 1555. Cook and
+his men were treated as supernatural beings and worshiped by the
+superstitious natives as gods, until the death of one of the sailors
+showed that they were mere mortals; and in 1779, by their overbearing
+conduct, the Englishmen came into conflict with the irate natives and
+Jas. Cook was killed. "His body was taken to a _heiau_ or temple; the
+flesh was removed from the bones and burned, and the bones were tied up
+with red feathers and deified. Parts of the body were recovered,
+however, and committed to the deep with military honors, and a part of
+the bones were kept in the temple of Lono and worshiped until 1819, when
+they were concealed in some secret place. A monument erected by his
+fellow countrymen now marks the place where he fell on the shores of
+Kealakekua."
+
+In 1893 the queen was deposed and a provisional government was
+established, to be succeeded, in 1894, by the Republic of Hawaii. In
+1900, by an act of Congress, the Hawaiian Islands became a territory of
+the United States. Of the one hundred and ninety and odd thousands of
+inhabitants of the islands, in 1910, nearly eighty thousand were
+Japanese. The native Hawaiians come next in point of numbers and are the
+most interesting people to the average tourist. Though dark-skinned,
+they are quite different in appearance from the negro, and many of the
+young men and women are decidedly good-looking.
+
+As the vessel enters the beautiful harbor, with the city of Honolulu
+spread out along the shore and the mountains rising abruptly in the
+immediate background, the well-formed young men and boys are seen
+alongside in the water or in native boats, ready to dive for the coins
+that the passengers seem always ready to throw to them. These amphibious
+people, like most of those in the tropics, are perfectly at home in the
+water and seem never to tire, no matter how far they may go to meet the
+incoming vessels, as they slowly wind their way through the tortuous
+channels among the treacherous coral reefs.
+
+[Illustration: DIAMOND HEAD, A FORTIFIED EXTINCT VOLCANO.
+
+At the entrance to the harbor of Honolulu.]
+
+To the south of the entrance to the harbor, which it guards with
+batteries of concealed cannon and mortars, is the extinct volcanic
+mountain known as Diamond Head, shown from the land side in the picture.
+A grass-covered, bowl-shaped crater of perhaps half a mile diameter may
+be entered through a tunnel on the land side, where Fort Ruger is
+situated. The rim of the crater, which is only a few hundred feet high,
+may be easily scaled and in most places affords easy walking and a fine
+view of the harbor. In the higher portion of the rim, seen in the right
+of the photograph, is a heavy battery of big guns, concealed in
+passages in the solid rock, that could probably protect the entrance of
+the harbor below from any ordinary fleet. Visitors are not allowed to
+see these rock-hidden batteries, whose existence would never be
+suspected from the smooth, apparently unbroken surface of the rock as
+seen from the harbor.
+
+Like many other beautiful places, Hawaii is said to have the "most
+perfect climate in the world." Add to this wonderful climate and
+beautiful scenery, of sea and mountains combined, the fact that there is
+supposed to be not a snake nor a poisonous plant nor an insect worse
+than bees in all the islands, it would seem that this is truly a
+paradise, without even the serpent to cause trouble.
+
+For the tourist there are excellent hotels and all the conveniences of a
+continental city, and amusements of sufficient variety to suit the most
+blase. For those who are merely stopping off for a day on the way to or
+from more distant ports it is hard to decide which of the many
+interesting places to visit. If it be his first visit, the mere city
+streets with the royal palms and other magnificent trees, the stores,
+the cosmopolitan crowds and other strange sights and sounds will be
+fascinating. A drive to the Punchbowl, the Poli, or more distant points,
+may be taken in a few hours, while if interested in natural history the
+gorgeous fishes and other marine forms to be seen at the Aquarium will
+be a revelation to one accustomed only to the life of the temperate
+zone.
+
+At the Bishop Museum the natural history, ethnology, etc., of the
+islands may be studied in a synoptic form. It is here that the famous
+war-cloak of Kamehameha I is on exhibition. It is a truly wonderful
+garment, four feet long, with a spread of ten feet or more at the
+bottom. It is made of the yellow feathers of the mama bird, and when it
+is realized that each bird furnishes but two small tufts of feathers,
+one under each wing, it will be imagined how many thousands of these
+small birds were sacrificed to make this one robe. It is valued at
+$150,000. It is carefully protected from dust and light but is exhibited
+to visitors to the museum.
+
+In the cool of the evening, when tired from a day of sight-seeing, the
+traveler may listen to the Honolulu Band, on some public square. It is
+composed of native musicians, but the instruments are those of the
+ordinary American brass band, and but for the cosmopolitan character of
+the audience one might imagine himself in a city of southern California
+or some other subtropical part of the United States.
+
+Besides having the most equable climate in the world Honolulu claims the
+most perfect bathing-resort on earth, Waikiki Beach. The water is
+certainly all that could be desired, but the not infrequent sharp masses
+of coral that project up through the white sand of the otherwise perfect
+beach are decidedly objectionable, and the writer cut a gash in his
+foot, by stepping on one of these pieces of coral, that was many days in
+healing.
+
+[Illustration: ROYAL PALMS, HONOLULU.]
+
+Another of the points of interest in the city is the Royal Mausoleum,
+where are the bodies of many of the royalty of the Hawaiian dynasties.
+The Hawaiian alphabet consists of but twelve letters, and the
+preponderance of vowels in many words seems remarkable to an
+English-speaking person. For example one of the bodies in the Royal
+Mausoleum is that of "Kaiminaauao, sister of Queen Kalakaua"; it will be
+noticed that eight of the eleven letters in this name are vowels. In
+this Mausoleum doubtless now rest the remains of Liliuokalani, the last
+queen of Hawaii, who was deposed in 1893 for attempting to force a less
+liberal constitution upon the people. She married an American and twice
+visited the United States, after his death.
+
+If time permit, and the pocketbook too, most interesting side trips to
+the other islands of the group may be made, especially to the active
+volcano, Mauna Loa, 13,760 feet high, with Kilauea on its eastern slope,
+situated on the Island of Hawaii.
+
+While the Hawaiian Islands may not be as perfect as they are advertised,
+they nevertheless give a very fair imitation of Paradise, and a better
+place in which to rest and enjoy nature in her kindest moods would be
+hard to find.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (nearby, near-by)
+
+Pg. 45, unusual spelling of word "variagated" retained. (and large and
+variagated smells)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wanderings in the Orient
+
+Author: Albert M. Reese
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26707]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<h1>WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT</h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>BY</small></p>
+
+<p class="center">ALBERT M. REESE</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>WITH SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>CHICAGO&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;LONDON</small><br />
+THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY<br />
+<small>1919</small></p>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>COPYRIGHT BY</small><br />
+THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY<br />
+<small>1919</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="50%" summary="Table of contents">
+
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="tocpg"><span class="tiny">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdl">Foreword</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">I.</td><td class="toc">Life in a Philippine Village</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">II.</td><td class="toc">A Visit to Tay Tay</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">III.</td><td class="toc">The Leper Colony of Culion</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">IV.</td><td class="toc">From Zamboanga to Singapore</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">V.</td><td class="toc">Singapore, the Melting Pot of the East</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">VI.</td><td class="toc">How Rubber Is Made</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">VII.</td><td class="toc">Two Chinese Cities</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">VIII.</td><td class="toc">Meanderings in Modern Manila</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdrt">IX.</td><td class="toc">A Pacific Paradise, Honolulu</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr>
+
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+<h2>FOREWORD.</h2>
+
+
+<p>To most Americans, "going abroad" means visiting Europe. Since European
+travel will doubtless be unsatisfactory for some years to come, the
+globetrotter may well turn his attention to the Far East which, while
+not so accessible, is after all easily reached if the cost be not
+prohibitive; and the ubiquitous Cook is nearly always on hand to help
+the traveler out of difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>The trip across the Pacific is of course a long one, but the journey is
+interrupted, before the end of the first week, by a stop at that
+tropical paradise, the Hawaiian Islands.</p>
+
+<p>If one should need a complete rest, this seven thousand mile voyage is
+just the thing. If he desire he may read or study to good advantage. If
+inclined to sea-sickness there is plenty of time to recover and still
+enjoy the greater part of the journey. While the distances between
+stopping places are often great one feels that he can "do" a place in
+much less time than it would take in Europe, where objects of historic
+and other interest are so crowded together. If interested in the work of
+foreign missions abundant opportunity offers for their study at first
+hand.</p>
+
+<p>It was chiefly during these journeys between stopping places that the
+following sketches were written, as a sort of diary or log, illustrated
+by photographs taken by the writer.</p>
+
+<p>On a beautiful morning in May the U. S. Army Transport "Sherman," after
+a voyage of twenty-eight days from San Francisco, tied up at the dock in
+Manila. The regular lines make the trip in much less time than the
+leisurely transports, but the writer, as a representative of the
+Smithsonian Institution, was furnished passage on the government vessel.
+With Manila as headquarters, collecting trips were made to various
+regions roundabout. Some of these places are described in the following
+chapters.</p>
+
+<p>Finally, upon one of the inter-island transports, a trip to the
+southernmost islands of the Philippine group was made, ending at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+Zamboanga, where the North German Lloyd steamer was taken for Singapore,
+via Borneo. From Singapore a four days' trip, without stop, brought us
+to Hongkong; whence, after seeing that place and the nearby city of
+Canton, a two days' trip brought us again to Manila. It is the various
+places visited in this more or less out-of-the-way circuit that are
+described in the remaining chapters.</p>
+
+<p class="sigblock">A. M. R.</p>
+
+<p class="left10">MORGANTOWN, W. VA.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+<h2>I. LIFE IN A PHILIPPINE VILLAGE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The little village or <i>barrio</i> of Mariveles is situated just inside the
+narrow cape that forms the northern border of the entrance to Manila
+Bay. The city of Manila lies out of sight, thirty miles to the
+southeast, but the island of Corregidor lies only seven miles to the
+south, and the great searchlights at night are quite dazzling when
+turned directly upon the village. A large amount of money has recently
+been spent in fortifying Corregidor until it is now considered
+practically impregnable.</p>
+
+<p>The village extends for about half a mile close along the beach and is
+flanked, on the west, by the buildings of a United States quarantine
+station.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving by a very dilapidated launch from Manila I waited at the
+government dock while the native boy I had brought with me went to the
+village to find, if possible, a vacant house. He soon returned, with
+another boy to help carry our baggage, (there was not a cart or wagon of
+any sort in the place) and with the information that he had engaged a
+house for our use. A whole house for two people sounded rather
+formidable but as this house contained only two rooms its rental was not
+as extravagant as might have been imagined. It was located on the main
+thoroughfare which had the very American name of Washington Street. Like
+the typical native house, our Washington Street mansion was built
+chiefly of bamboo and <i>nipa</i> palm, with a few heavier timbers in the
+framework. Upon the main timbers of the frame was built a sort of
+lattice of split bamboo, upon which in turn was sewed, shinglewise,
+close layers of nipa palm that are quite impervious to rain, are fairly
+durable, and are very inflammable. The <i>people's</i> floor was elevated
+four or five feet above the ground, thereby securing not only air and
+dryness for the people above, but also providing a very convenient
+chicken-coop and pig-pen beneath. The floor was made of split bamboo
+which made sweeping easy&mdash;merely a matter of pushing the dirt through
+the cracks between the strips of bamboo.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i01.jpg" width="600" height="469" alt="MARIVELES VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN, FROM MANILA BAY." />
+<p class="caption">MARIVELES VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN, FROM MANILA BAY.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the smell of even a <i>clean</i> pig under the dining-room table is
+rather objectionable at first, as is the crowing of two or three
+roosters early in the morning, it is surprising how soon one becomes
+accustomed to these little annoyances, and it simplifies domestic
+science considerably to be able to throw, from one's seat at table,
+banana skins and other scraps through a convenient hole in the floor and
+have them immediately disposed of by the pig and chickens beneath.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i02.jpg" width="415" height="600" alt="OUR RESIDENCE ON &quot;WASHINGTON STREET.&quot;" />
+<p class="caption">OUR RESIDENCE ON "WASHINGTON STREET."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The dining room, as in many American houses, also served as a kitchen.
+The stove was a large box, elevated two or three feet from the floor,
+lined with baked clay upon which the fire is made. Large iron spikes,
+arranged in groups of three, may be imbedded in the clay to hold one or
+more pots of different sizes. There was no chimney, but a convenient
+window carried out the smoke quite effectively. The fire-wood was stored
+under the house in the pig-pen and consisted chiefly of short sticks of
+such diameter as could be easily cut with the large knife or bolo that
+the natives wear suspended from a belt at the waist. The sticks, when
+the cooking is done, are simply withdrawn from beneath the pot and lie
+ready <!-- text to here was originally part of page 8. Page 9 was a full page image "OUR RESIDENCE--><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>to be pushed in again when the fire is lit for the next meal. A
+very few sticks will thus serve for cooking a large number of the simple
+native meals. Opening from the kitchen was the front door, leading to
+the ground by a flight of stairs or a ladder. Thanks to the United
+States Mariveles is supplied with abundant water, piped from some miles
+up in the mountains, and some of the better houses of the barrio have a
+private faucet on the back porch, which is luxury indeed. The main room
+of the house was used as a living room and bedroom. In such houses there
+are usually large windows, without sash of course, which are shaded by
+day and closed by night and in severe storms by a hinged awning of nipa,
+seen in the photographs. In spite of the warmth nearly all natives close
+the window shades tight when they sleep, so that, in spite of the
+numerous cracks, the ventilation must be very bad; this may partly
+account for the prevalence of tuberculosis on the islands.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i03.jpg" width="600" height="467" alt="NATIVE GIRL CARRYING BASKET OF CLOTHES." />
+<p class="caption">NATIVE GIRL CARRYING BASKET OF CLOTHES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Around the better houses in such a barrio is usually seen a high fence
+generally made of closely set vertical saplings, driven into the ground
+and bound together with rattan at the top; this fence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> serves to keep
+the chickens in, and, at night, to keep prowling animals out.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the houses have a tiny store at the ground level in which a
+small stock of canned goods, native fruits, dried fish, native shoes
+etc. may be seen. One of the main department stores of Mariveles is
+shown in the accompanying photograph, with the very American sign at the
+side of the entrance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i04.jpg" width="600" height="468" alt="THE CHIEF STORE OF MARIVELES." />
+<p class="caption">THE CHIEF STORE OF MARIVELES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Like many native villages Mariveles has a large stone church, with red
+tile roof, bell tower, etc.; it is now in such bad repair as to be
+unsafe, so that a crude shed with thatched sides and corrugated iron
+roof has been built to take its place. No priest now lives in this
+barrio and the shed-like church did not have the appearance of being
+much used.</p>
+
+<p>The village school, on the other hand, gave every indication of
+activity. Although not housed in a very handsome building, a glance
+through the windows and door showed many students of various ages all
+apparently busy and orderly under the supervision of several neat and
+bright looking native women.</p>
+
+<p>On the same street with the school a link with the outside world<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> was
+seen in the sign "Telegraph and Post Office." This office was in charge
+of a native who, unlike most of the residents of the barrio, spoke
+English. In these villages it is usually easy to find natives who speak
+Spanish, but it is frequently difficult to find one who understands
+English.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i05.jpg" width="600" height="465" alt="THE OLD CHURCH." />
+<p class="caption">THE OLD CHURCH.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The men of the village were mostly engaged, though not very strenuously,
+in the rice paddies or in fishing. The women looked after the
+housekeeping, washing, tending the stores, etc., and their position of
+respect and authority in the homes and in society was in marked contrast
+to that of other oriental and even of some European women.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i06.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="THE MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL." />
+<p class="caption">THE MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A tiny store across the street from where we lived was tended during
+most of the day and in the evenings by an attractive young native woman
+who seemed to be quite a belle. Every evening, at about dark, a dapper
+young native, in an American suit of white, always appeared and seated
+himself upon the bench in front of the store, where he could see and
+talk to his brunette lady love without interfering with her commercial
+duties, which were not heavy. Often several other suitors appeared and,
+while it was not possible to <!--text to here originally part of page 12. Page 13 was full page illustration of "MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL" --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>understand what was said, since the
+conversation was all in Tagalog, from the frequent laughter it was
+evident that the girl was as able to entertain several admirers at once
+as are some of her blond sisters across the sea. Her voice was softer
+and her laugh more attractive than that of many an American belle of
+high social standing. In fact the women of this island village were, as
+a class, of remarkable dignity and modesty, so that there was probably
+less to shock one's modesty here than at many a fashionable American
+watering place. Of course ignorance of their language made it impossible
+to understand all that was going on, but to judge by their actions and
+the tones of their voices it would seem that their family life is as
+peaceful and happy as that of the average American family. It is truly
+the "simple life" that they lead, and to us it seems a very narrow one;
+yet it has its advantages over the "strenuous life" that most of us are
+compelled to live. There was little or no drunkenness or quarreling
+among the men, whose chief vice seemed to be gambling.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i07.jpg" width="600" height="469" alt="THE TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE." />
+<p class="caption">THE TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This gambling instinct is gratified mainly by means of the cockpit. One
+of the most familiar sights of the islands is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> native man with a
+game cock or just a plain rooster under his arm. They pet and fondle
+these birds as we do cats or lap-dogs, and on Sundays (alas!) they
+gather at the cockpits to match their favorites against each other. Many
+barrios have large covered pits seating hundreds of people. The pit of
+Mariveles, which happened to be in the yard next to ours, was simply a
+square of about twenty feet enclosed by a low bamboo fence, in the shade
+of a huge acacia tree. Around this square were gathered about one
+hundred men (probably all of the men of the barrio) and two or three
+women, and we shall hope that the few women who were there to witness so
+unpleasant a spectacle were looking after their husbands to see that
+they did not bet too heavily.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i08.jpg" width="600" height="460" alt="NATIVE &quot;BANCA&quot; NEAR MARIVELES." />
+<p class="caption">NATIVE "BANCA" NEAR MARIVELES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Inside the square were two or three officials, and two men holding the
+two contesting birds. A man at a table outside held the stakes and
+presumably kept track of the bettors, odds, etc. Instead of the weapons
+provided by nature each bird had securely fastened to his left leg, in
+place of the spur that had been cut off, a villainously sharp steel
+spur, slightly curved and about three inches long. A well directed
+thrust from this steel weapon may kill the victim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> almost instantly, and
+one victim was already hanging head-down to a near-by tree when I
+entered.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i09.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="A SCHOOLHOUSE IN ILOILO." />
+<p class="caption">A SCHOOLHOUSE IN ILOILO.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>While the bets were being arranged each bird was held, in turn, to let
+the other peck him ferociously, probably with the idea of making them
+mad enough to fight. When the bets were all arranged the birds were
+placed on the ground facing each other, and with lowered heads and neck
+feathers erected they dashed together like tigers, jumping high over
+each other and endeavoring to stab one another with their artificial
+weapons. In the one fight witnessed (and one was enough to learn the
+ways of the cockpit) both birds were soon bleeding profusely and had
+lost their desire to fight, so that the crowd called out some word and
+the cocks were picked up and "sicked" on each other again; this was
+repeated until one bird had enough and retreated ignominiously to the
+farthest corner of the pit, amid the shouts of the men who had bet on
+the other cock. In many cases, it is said, the vanquished bird is killed
+outright before he has time to retreat.</p>
+
+<p>The sport, while rather exciting, is certainly demoralizing, especially
+with the betting that always accompanies it.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the life of these simple people. Of course among the less
+civilized and the savage tribes conditions are very different,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> and a
+white man would not dare enter so intimately into the life of a barrio;
+in fact in some regions it is very unsafe to go outside of the army
+posts without a proper guard.</p>
+
+<p>As to the character of the civilized Filipinos opinion seems to differ
+among the Americans of the Islands. That they are not yet capable of
+self-government seems to be almost universally believed by Americans who
+have lived among them; and that they are not energetic as a class is
+only what might be expected in such a climate. Some Americans have a
+rather high opinion of the moral character and general trustworthiness
+of the average native; others do not hold such a high opinion of him and
+consider him the inferior of the American negro, mentally, morally and
+physically. As students in the University of the Philippines it is said
+they compare favorably with students in American universities.</p>
+
+<p>Doubtless there is as much variation, mental and moral, among the
+natives of the Philippine Islands as among the inhabitants of an
+Anglo-Saxon country, so that one's opinions are apt to be influenced by
+the class of natives with which he chiefly comes in contact.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+<h2>II. A VISIT TO TAY TAY.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The cutter <i>Busuanga</i> of the Philippine Bureau of Navigation had been
+chartered to go to Tay Tay on the Island of Palawan, to bring back to
+Manila the party of naturalists of the Bureau of Science who had been
+studying the little-known fauna and flora of that far-away island, the
+most westerly of the Philippine group.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i10.jpg" width="600" height="467" alt="VILLAGE OF TAY TAY FROM THE HARBOR." />
+<p class="caption">VILLAGE OF TAY TAY FROM THE HARBOR.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After leaving the dock at Manila at sundown we steamed out of the bay,
+past the searchlights of Corregidor and the other forts which were
+sweeping entirely across the entrance to the bay in a way that would
+immediately expose any enemy that might attempt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> to slip by in the dark,
+and by nine o'clock we were headed in a south-westerly direction across
+the China Sea.</p>
+
+<p>The next day we passed through winding passages along the Calamaines
+group where every hour brought to view new islands of the greatest
+beauty and of every size and shape. Upon one of these islands is a leper
+colony which we visited and found most interesting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i11.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="TWO PROMINENT HOUSES IN TAY TAY." />
+<p class="caption">TWO PROMINENT HOUSES IN TAY TAY.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Early on the second morning we entered the harbor of the small but
+ancient village of Tay Tay (pronounced "tie tie" and spelled in various
+ways) on the eastern shore of Palawan. Not a white man lives in this
+inaccessible hamlet and it is seldom that one visits it, as there is no
+regular communication of any sort with the outside world.</p>
+
+<p>The village consists of a dozen or two native huts along the beach in a
+very pretty grove of coconut trees. Back of the village is a range of
+low mountains covered with tropical jungle. The main point of interest
+is a well constructed fort of stone, built on a small promontory that
+projects out into the bay. The walls of the fort are very massive and
+are surmounted at each of the four corners by a round watch tower. On
+its land side the fort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> is entered through a narrow gate that leads by a
+stone stairway to the top of the promontory. On various parts of the
+walls are carvings and inscriptions showing that the different bastions
+were built at different times.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i12.jpg" width="600" height="463" alt="THE SPANISH FORT AT TAY TAY." />
+<p class="caption">THE SPANISH FORT AT TAY TAY.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Within the fort and overlooking the walls is an old stone church whose
+roof has long since fallen in. Within the fort is also a large
+cement-lined, stone cistern to hold water in case of siege. The Spanish
+inscriptions on the walls show that the fort was begun about 1720,
+though the mission there was established about 1620. Lying about within
+the fort are a few large iron cannon that were doubtless used by the
+Spaniards in repulsing the attacks of the Moro pirates. It was for a
+refuge from these pirates that this old fort was built nearly two
+hundred years ago in this tiny, reef-protected harbor, on an island that
+even now is unknown to a large majority of American people although it
+is a part of our territory.</p>
+
+<p>On the shore, just back of the fort, is another stone church whose roof
+has also fallen in; and back of this church is a small thatched bell
+tower with two very good bells of harmonious tones hanging in it. How
+long these bells have been silent it is difficult<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> to say, but no priest
+now remains to carry on the work begun nearly three hundred years ago by
+the brave padres from Spain, and not a Spaniard now lives in that almost
+forgotten village. But for the moss-covered and still massive gray walls
+of the fort and the crumbling ruins of the two churches one would never
+imagine that this tiny village of brown men had ever been inhabited by
+subjects of the kingdom of Spain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i13.jpg" width="453" height="600" alt="CHURCH WITHIN THE FORT." />
+<p class="caption">CHURCH WITHIN THE FORT.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In passing out of the harbor of Tay Tay we visited a small volcanic
+island of curiously weathered and water-worn limestone. Except for a
+narrow beach the sides of this island are almost perpendicular, and the
+cliffs are honeycombed with dozens of water-worn caves. Many of these
+caves are of great beauty, resembling the interiors of stone churches;
+some extend far back into the dark interior of the island, others are
+lighted by openings at the top. Many of them are beautifully colored,
+and in an accessible region<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> would doubtless be frequently visited by
+tourists, while in their isolated location it is possible that they had
+never before been visited by white men, unless in the old Spanish days.
+It is in these and in similar caves of this region that the natives
+obtain the edible birds' nests so highly prized by some, especially the
+Chinese. The natives are said to have claims on certain caves, and any
+one found stealing nests from another man's cave is supposedly dealt
+with as a thief.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i14.jpg" width="452" height="600" alt="BELL-TOWER OF THE CHURCH OUTSIDE OF THE FORT." />
+<p class="caption">BELL-TOWER OF THE CHURCH OUTSIDE OF THE FORT.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>These curious nests are built by swifts (swallows) against the walls of
+the dark caves much in the some way as is done by our common chimney
+swifts, except that instead of cementing a number of small twigs
+together by a kind of sticky secretion or saliva, the entire nest is
+made of the sticky substance which dries into a sort of gummy mass. This
+substance has but little taste, and why the wealthy Chinese should be
+willing to pay such enormous prices ($12 to $15 per pound) for it is
+hard to understand.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>It is said that the first nest the bird makes in the season brings the
+highest price because it is of pure material; this nest having been
+taken the bird builds another, but, having a diminished supply of the
+secretion, it introduces some foreign matter to help out, and this
+foreign matter, of course, makes the nest less valuable as food. A third
+nest may succeed the second, but it has still more foreign matter to
+still further diminish its value. That the collection of the nests is
+attended with considerable danger is evident from the vertical, jagged
+walls of rock that must be scaled, either from below or above, to obtain
+them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i15.jpg" width="600" height="466" alt="ISLAND NEAR TAY TAY WHERE EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS ARE
+FOUND." />
+<p class="caption">ISLAND NEAR TAY TAY WHERE EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS ARE
+FOUND.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To those of us who lead busy lives in the centers of what we call
+twentieth-century civilization, life in a place so isolated from the
+rest of the world as Tay Tay seems impossible. Yet the inhabitants of
+this barrio are quite contented and fairly comfortable. They live "the
+simple life" indeed. While their resources are exceedingly limited their
+needs and desires are correspondingly few. They never suffer from cold
+and probably not often from heat or hunger: and they are not cursed with
+the ambitions that make so many of us dissatisfied with our lives.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+<h2>III. THE LEPER COLONY OF CULION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>It was early Sunday morning when the "Busuanga" dropped anchor in the
+harbor of Culion Island, one of the Calamaines group of the Philippines,
+and two or three of us were fortunate enough to be invited to land, for
+an hour or so, to visit the leper colony that is said to be the largest
+in the world.</p>
+
+<p>We were met at the tiny dock by the physician-in-charge, Dr. Clements,
+and by him escorted about the colony. This physician, who has spent long
+years in these eastern lands, gives the immediate impression of a man of
+quiet force, and the work he is doing in this seldom-visited island is
+as fine a piece of missionary work, though carried on by the government,
+as can probably be found anywhere.</p>
+
+<p>Including the dock a few acres of the island are fenced off, and into
+this enclosure the lepers are forbidden to enter; otherwise they have
+the run of the island, but are not allowed boats for fear they would be
+used as a means of escape.</p>
+
+<p>Within the non-leprous enclosure are located the residences for the
+doctors and other officials; the living quarters, kitchens etc. (all of
+concrete) for the non-leprous laborers; and various shops and other such
+buildings.</p>
+
+<p>At the "dead line" fence between this and the leprous part of the island
+a Chinaman has a small store where the lepers can buy various articles
+such as may be seen in a small country store. The articles are in plain
+sight, but the leper is not allowed to touch anything until he has
+decided to take it; he then drops his money into a sterilizing solution
+and gets his purchase. A more modern store is being arranged by the
+government that will soon displace the <i>Chino</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Passing this minute store we entered the gate of the "forbidden city,"
+and, though there is no danger from merely breathing the same air with
+lepers, it gave us a rather strange sensation to be surrounded by
+thirty-four hundred poor wretches who in Biblical times would have been
+compelled to cry "Unclean! unclean!" We,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> of course, did not touch
+anything within the colony, though the doctors do not hesitate to touch
+even the lepers themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The colony proper is located on a small promontory looking eastward to
+the harbor and the Sulu Sea. At the end of this promontory is an old
+Spanish fort of stone with its enclosed church. Most of the Christian
+lepers are Roman Catholics, though there is a small Protestant church in
+the colony, in charge of a leprous native minister.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i16.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="DOCTORS' RESIDENCES AND OTHER BUILDINGS OUTSIDE OF THE
+COLONY FENCE." />
+<p class="caption">DOCTORS' RESIDENCES AND OTHER BUILDINGS OUTSIDE OF THE
+COLONY FENCE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The lepers are brought from the various islands of the Philippines to
+this colony so fast that it is with great difficulty that they can be
+accommodated; but all are made comfortable, in fact much more
+comfortable, in most cases, than they would ever have been at home.
+Except for homesickness, which cannot, of course, be avoided, they are
+quite happy, or as happy as any hopelessly sick people can be away from
+home and friends.</p>
+
+<p>Fine concrete dormitories are supplied, but many prefer to build their
+own native houses of nipa palm and bamboo. A certain amount of help is
+given the lepers in building these houses on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>condition that they first
+obtain a permit and build in the proper place in relation to the streets
+that have been laid out.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the dormitories there are several concrete kitchen buildings
+where the lepers can prepare their food in comfort.</p>
+
+<p>A plentiful supply of pure water is distributed by pipes to various
+convenient parts of the colony, and several concrete bath and wash
+houses are conveniently located. A concrete sewage system leads all
+sewage to the sea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i17.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="CONCRETE DORMITORY AND NATIVE SHACKS." />
+<p class="caption">CONCRETE DORMITORY AND NATIVE SHACKS.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In this tropical climate it is, of course, unnecessary to provide any
+means of heating the buildings. At the time of our visit a large
+amusement pavilion was nearly completed where moving pictures and other
+forms of entertainment will help pass the time for these poor wretches
+who have nothing to look forward to but a lingering death from a
+loathsome disease.</p>
+
+<p>A large number of the patients who are in the incipient stages showed,
+to the ordinary observer, no effects of the disease. There were others
+who at first glance seemed perfectly normal, but on closer scrutiny
+revealed the absence of one or more toes or fingers. Others had horribly
+swollen ears: some had no nose left and were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> distressing objects; but
+it was not until we visited the various wards of the hospital that we
+saw leprosy in all of its horror. Here were dozens of cases so far
+advanced that they were no longer able to walk; they were lying on their
+cots waiting for death to come to their release. Some were so emaciated
+as to look almost like animated skeletons. Others, except for and
+sometimes in spite of their bandages, looked like horrid, partially
+decomposed cadavers. It was a sight to make one shudder and devoutly
+hope that a cure for this awful disease may soon be discovered. These
+extreme cases are cared for carefully and their last hours are made as
+comfortable as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i18.jpg" width="600" height="465" alt="CONCRETE KITCHEN AND LAVATORY BUILDINGS AND NATIVE
+RESIDENCES." />
+<p class="caption">CONCRETE KITCHEN AND LAVATORY BUILDINGS AND NATIVE
+RESIDENCES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we came, out three Catholic sisters entered the women's ward to do
+what they could for the patients there.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly before leaving the colony we were led to a small concrete
+structure (near the furnace where all combustible waste is burned), and
+as the door was opened we saw before us on a concrete slab four bodies
+so wasted and shrivelled that they seemed scarcely human. These were
+those who had at last been cured in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> the only way that this dread
+disease admits of cure. About forty per month are released by death, and
+those we saw were the last crop of the here <i>merciful</i> not "dread
+reaper."</p>
+
+<p>At the back of the colony we met four lepers of incipient stages
+carrying a long box on their shoulders. Just as they came abreast of us
+they set it down, to rest themselves, and we saw that in the box was
+another "cured" leper. He was being carried to the cemetery not only
+"unhonored and unsung" but also "unwept": not a single friend nor
+relative followed his wasted body to its final resting place. After this
+pitiful spectacle, added to the horrors of the hospital wards, we were
+not sorry to turn our steps back toward the boat. As we passed through
+the fence at the "dead line," going away from the colony, we were
+compelled to wade through a shallow box of water containing a small
+percentage of carbolic acid which disinfected the soles of our shoes,
+the only things about us that had come in actual contact with the leper
+colony. In this way all visitors when they leave the colony are
+compelled, not to "shake its dust from their feet" but to wash its germs
+from their soles.</p>
+
+<p>As an antidote for dissatisfaction with one's lot in life, or as an
+object lesson for the pessimists who claim there is no unselfishness in
+the world, or as an illustration of the value of the medical missionary,
+this little island, lying "somewhere east of Suez" between the Sulu and
+the China Seas, is not easily surpassed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+<h2>IV. FROM ZAMBOANGA TO SINGAPORE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>When the North German Lloyd steamer "Sandakan" left the dock at
+Zamboanga she had in the first cabin only three passengers, a Russian of
+uncertain occupation, a young lieutenant of the Philippine constabulary,
+and myself. We had, therefore, the pick of the deck staterooms, which is
+worth while when traveling within ten degrees of the equator in
+mid-summer.</p>
+
+<p>Zamboanga is the chief city of the island of Mindanao and is the capital
+of the turbulent Moro province, which includes the well-known island of
+Sulu with its once-famous sultan.</p>
+
+<p>After a night's run we tied up at the dock of Jolo, the chief town of
+the island of Sulu. Here my two companions left the ship, so that until
+we reached the next port, Sandakan, I was the only cabin passenger, and
+when the ship's officers were prevented by their duties from appearing
+at the table I had the undivided attention of the chief steward, two
+cooks, and three waiters. This line of vessels being primarily for
+freight the "Sandakan" has accommodations for less than twenty
+first-cabin passengers, and it probably seldom has anything like a full
+list on this out-of-the-way run from "Zambo" to Singapore. So far as its
+accommodations go, however, they are excellent, and a pleasanter trip of
+a week or ten days would be hard to find, in spite of the tropical heat.</p>
+
+<p>While the first cabin list was so small, the third class accommodations
+seemed taxed to their utmost, and the conglomeration of orientals was an
+unending source of amusement. They slept all over their deck and
+appeared happy and comfortable in spite of the fact that they seemed
+never to remove their clothes nor to bathe; it is probable that to most
+of them ten days without such luxuries was not a noticeable deprivation.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Jolo, a picturesque walled city with a reputation for dangerous
+Moros (one is not supposed to go outside the walls without an armed
+guard, and many men carry a "45" at their hip at all times), we sailed
+southwest through the countless islands of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> Sulu Archipelago, and
+after a run of about twenty hours passed the high red cliff at the
+entrance to the harbor of Sandakan, the capital of British North Borneo,
+and were soon alongside the dock.</p>
+
+<p>Sandakan is a rather pretty little town of two or three thousand
+inhabitants, including about fifty white people. It extends along the
+shore for about a mile and in the center has the athletic or recreation
+field, that is found in all these little towns, as well as the post
+office and other government buildings. In this central part of the town
+are also the Chinese stores, usually dirty, ill-smelling and
+unattractive; but there are no others. In all this region the Chinese
+seem to have a complete monopoly of the commercial business.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i19.jpg" width="600" height="469" alt="THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN." />
+<p class="caption">THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A hundred yards or more from the shore the hills rise steeply from
+sea-level to a few hundred feet, and over these hills are scattered the
+attractive bungalows of the white residents. There is also here a
+handsome stone church, overlooking the bay, with a school for native
+boys in connection with it. The hills farther from the town are heavily
+wooded, and the timber is being sawed at mills along the shore road. On
+the streets are seen men of several<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> nationalities, Chinese, Malays,
+Moros, East Indians, and occasionally a Caucasian in his customary white
+suit and pith helmet; but of all these the most dignified and stately is
+the Indian policeman. He is tall and slender, with frequently a fine
+black beard; his head is covered with the usual white turban, set off
+with a touch of red. His gray spiral puttees generally do not quite
+reach the bottom of his khaki trousers, thus leaving his knees bare.
+Hanging from his belt is his club, similar to those carried by American
+policemen, and jangling in one hand is usually a pair of steel
+handcuffs. In passing white men he often raises his hand in a formal
+military salute that would be worthy of a major general. Altogether he
+is a most impressive personage and, with such examples constantly before
+them, it would seem incredible that the citizens should ever cause
+a-disturbance. An interesting contrast was seen in a group of men,
+sitting idly in the shade and watching eight little Chinese women
+stagger by with a huge tree trunk that would seem too heavy for an equal
+number of strong men to carry: but this is "East of Suez, where the best
+is like the worst," whatever Kipling meant by that.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i20.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN." />
+<p class="caption">SANDAKAN FROM THE HILL.<br />
+<span style="font-weight: normal">The "Sandakan" at the Dock.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Sandakan the first cabin passenger list was increased 100 per cent by
+the advent of a young Danish rubber man&mdash;not a man<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> made of young Danish
+rubber, but a young Dane from Singapore who had been inspecting rubber
+plantations, of which there are many on Borneo.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i21.jpg" width="600" height="453" alt="BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN." />
+<p class="caption">BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving the capital city at sunset we arrived at Kudat, our next
+stopping place, early the next morning. With a very similar location
+this is a much smaller town than the preceding, consisting of four or
+five hundred people including half a dozen Caucasians. In spite of its
+small size it has a small garrison of native soldiers and the inevitable
+recreation ground. Besides this there is here a race track at which a
+meet was about to be held. Attracted probably by the races was the
+ubiquitous moving picture show, set up in a tent near the race track. It
+is impossible to escape the "movies." I attended a moving picture
+exhibition given in the cockpit of a small Philippine village about
+fifty miles out from Manila, and here was another in a still smaller
+village on the Island of Borneo, hundreds of miles from <i>anywhere</i>. In
+the same way it is impossible to escape the voice of the phonograph. On
+several occasions I have heard them in tiny nipa shacks in small
+Philippine villages, and in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> a Moro shack in Kudat, built on poles above
+the water, I heard the sound of what seemed a very good phonograph of
+some sort.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i22.jpg" width="600" height="453" alt="CHINESE WOMEN CARRYING LOG, SANDAKAN." />
+<p class="caption">CHINESE WOMEN CARRYING LOG, SANDAKAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the northeast corner of Borneo is its highest mountain, Kini or Kina
+Balu, the Chinese Widow, supposedly so named because of the fancied
+resemblance of its jagged top to the upturned face of a woman. It is
+really a very impressive peak and, being seen from the sea, it looks its
+full height of nearly fourteen thousand feet; being exactly under the
+sixth parallel it is, of course, too close to the equator to be
+snow-capped. Its position near the coast enabled us to enjoy it as we
+approached the island from the northeast and as we passed around and
+down the west coast, so that it was visible for nearly three days. Other
+mountain peaks of five or six thousand feet are visible along the west
+coast but they appear insignificant in comparison with old Kini Balu.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i23.jpg" width="600" height="452" alt="CHINO CARRIER, SANDAKAN." />
+<p class="caption">CHINO CARRIER, SANDAKAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i24.jpg" width="600" height="348" alt="RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT." />
+<p class="caption">RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT.<br />
+<span style="font-weight: normal">Movie tent in the left background.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving Kudat in the evening we arrived at Jesselton the following
+morning. This is a town of about the same size and character of location
+as Kudat, but as the northern terminus of the only railroad on the
+island it seems much more of a metropolis. It has a clock-tower, too,
+the pride of every Jesseltonian heart, located<!--text to here was originally part of page 33. Pge 34 was full page illustrations of "CHINO CARRIER" and "RACE COURSE" above --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> in plain view of the
+railroad station so that there is no excuse for the trains leaving
+Jesselton more than two or three hours late. There is here again the
+recreation field and market house, and, of course, the usual Chinese
+stores and Indian policemen; besides this it is the home town of the
+Governor (an Englishman, of course) of British North Borneo. But the
+railroad is the chief feature of Jesselton. To be sure it is only a
+narrow gauge, but it carries people, if they are not in too big a hurry,
+and freight. The engines are of English type but the cars are&mdash;original,
+surely. There are first and third class passenger coaches, no second
+class, to say nothing of a baggage "van." The third class cars have
+simply a rough wooden bench along each side and seat about twenty
+people. The first class cars are of two types: the first is like the
+third class with the addition of cushions to the seats and curtains to
+the windows; the second kind is a sort of Pullman car; it is of the same
+size, but instead of the benches it has about half a dozen wicker chairs
+that may be moved about at will.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i25.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT." />
+<p class="caption">MORO SHACKS AT KUDAT.<br />
+<span style="font-weight: normal">In one of these a phonograph was heard.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Having a few hours to spare I decided to take a ride into the country. I
+had already climbed one of the hills where I could get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> a view inland to
+Kini Balu, over miles of jungle where no white man has ever been. But I
+wanted to see a little of this country, from the car-window at least. So
+I entered the station and interviewed the station master, a portly
+official of great dignity. He told me, in fair English, that the train
+on the "main line" had left for that day but that I could take a "local"
+out into the country for about three miles. This was better than
+nothing, so I climbed (and climb is the proper word) aboard the first
+class car of the local that was soon to start. I was the only
+first-class passenger and I felt like a railroad president in his
+private car. Soon after starting the conductor entered. He was a tall
+and, of course, dignified East Indian in turban and khaki uniform. He
+had the punch without which no conductor would be complete, and,
+suspended from a strap over his shoulder, was a huge canvas bag, like a
+mail bag, the purpose of which puzzled me. The fare, he told me, was
+fifteen cents to the end of the line; on giving him a twenty-cent piece
+I found the purpose of the canvas bag; it was his money bag, and he
+carefully fished from its depths my five cents change. The Borneo
+pennies are about as big as cart wheels so this bag was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> so out of
+proportion as it might seem. In exchange for my fare he gave me a ticket
+marked "fifteen cents," which he gravely punched. I did not know what
+the ticket was for as I thought there would hardly be a change of
+conductors in a run of three miles, but I kept it and in about five
+minutes the dignified conductor returned and gravely took up the ticket
+again; this impressive performance was repeated on the return trip.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i26.jpg" width="600" height="454" alt="HOSPITAL ON THE HILL, KUDAT." />
+<p class="caption">HOSPITAL ON THE HILL, KUDAT.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After leaving the crowded(?) streets of the city our speed rapidly
+increased until we were traveling at a rate of not less than ten miles
+an hour, which was fast enough considering there were no airbrakes on
+the train of three cars, and we had to be ready to stop at any moment
+when somebody might want to get on or off. Doubtless the "flyers" on the
+main line of the British North Borneo State Railroad run at even greater
+speeds than this. The dignity of the officials of this miniature
+railroad was most interesting, and was almost equal to that of a negro
+porter on the Empire State Express.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i27.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="CLUB HOUSE AT JESSELTON." />
+<p class="caption">CLUB HOUSE AT JESSELTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving this railroad center early the next morning we arrived, before
+dark, at our last stop in Borneo, Labuan. We had added<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> 50 per cent to
+our cabin passenger list at Jesselton by taking aboard a young English
+engineer from South Africa.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i28.jpg" width="600" height="454" alt="PASSENGER TRAIN ON THE B. N. B. S. R. R. AT JESSELTON." />
+<p class="caption">PASSENGER TRAIN ON THE B. N. B. S. R. R. AT JESSELTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Island of Labuan upon which the town of the same name is situated
+lies just off the northwest coast of Borneo. It came under the
+protectorate of Great Britain in 1846 and, though small, has a more
+up-to-date appearance than any of the other towns visited. The stores
+are mainly of concrete with red tile or red-painted corrugated iron
+roofs, which, among the tall coconut palms, are very attractive in
+appearance. There is one main street, parallel to the beach line, that
+is extended as a modern, oiled road for some miles into the country.
+Along this road are the very attractive official buildings, each with
+its sign in front; also the recreation field and the residences of the
+few white inhabitants. All of the streets are clean and have deep cement
+gutters on the sides that lead to the sea or to the various lagoons that
+extend through the town. Water pipes also extend along the streets with
+openings at convenient intervals. Extensive coal mines are located near
+the town, but for some reason they were not profitable and the cars and
+docks for handling coal are now nearly all idle. On one of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> lagoons
+is a rather artistic Chinese temple of concrete, well built and in good
+repair.</p>
+
+<p>On the main street is a school, and, seeing a crowd of natives at the
+door, I joined the throng to see what was going on inside. It proved to
+be the singing hour, and about fifty little Chinese boys, from six to
+ten years of age, all in neat khaki uniforms, were singing at the tops
+of their voices, led by a very active Chinese man. The little fellows
+seemed to enjoy the singing thoroughly, and, after hearing several
+songs, all in Chinese, of course, to strange and unusual tunes, I was
+surprised to recognize one of the tunes&mdash;it was "John Brown's body lies
+amoulding in the grave" though what the words were I was unable to tell
+since, like the other songs, they were in Chinese.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i29.jpg" width="600" height="425" alt="BORNEAN BOAT AT JESSELTON." />
+<p class="caption">BORNEAN BOAT AT JESSELTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Labuan the last of our cabin passengers came aboard, two Englishmen,
+one a mining engineer, the other a government man. Since no more stops
+were to be made in Borneo, the Sandakan headed in a southwest direction
+straight for Singapore, and in exactly three days we entered that busy
+harbor and dropped anchor among the more than two dozen other ocean
+liners from all parts of the world.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i30.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="MAIN STREET AT LABUAN." />
+<p class="caption">MAIN STREET AT LABUAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i31.jpg" width="600" height="390" alt="POST OFFICE AND RECREATION GROUND AT LABUAN." />
+<p class="caption">POST OFFICE AND RECREATION GROUND AT LABUAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>Singapore is one of the busiest seaports in the world and the hundreds
+of vessels of all sizes and types against the background of handsome
+white and cream-colored buildings make a very interesting and impressive
+sight.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i32.jpg" width="600" height="452" alt="CHINESE TEMPLE AT LABUAN." />
+<p class="caption">CHINESE TEMPLE AT LABUAN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus ended a most interesting voyage of nine days, through a region
+seldom visited by any but a few Englishmen who are interested in some
+way in the development of that, as yet, little developed part of the
+world. Although it is a trip that is easily arranged by visitors to the
+Philippines it is one that is seldom taken by the tourist.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+<h2>V. SINGAPORE, THE MELTING POT OF THE EAST.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In Singapore, it is said, can be seen more races of men than at any
+other one spot in the world, so that it has been well named "The Melting
+Pot of the East." It is also sometimes spoken of as "The Gateway of the
+East," since all vessels bound for ports in the Far East call there.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i33.jpg" width="600" height="455" alt="HONGKONG BANK AND PUBLIC SQUARE." />
+<p class="caption">HONGKONG BANK AND PUBLIC SQUARE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is said, perhaps without sufficient historical evidence, that the
+town was first settled by Malays in 1360 A. D.; but as a port of any
+importance its history begins in 1819 when it was ceded by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+<!--In the original text, the words from here onwards are part of Pg.
+44. They have been displaced as the illustrations (which originally
+occupied Pg. 43 entirely) had to be moved to a paragraph break on page
+44.-->Jahore to Great Britain through the instrumentality of Sir
+Stamford Raffles, whose name is perpetuated in connection with many of
+the local institutions.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i34.jpg" width="600" height="461" alt="A CHINESE RESIDENCE STREET." />
+<p class="caption">A CHINESE RESIDENCE STREET.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i33.jpg" width="600" height="463"
+alt="A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE." />
+<p class="caption">A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>In the early days, in fact until the introduction of steamships, there
+was much annoyance and danger from pirates at sea and robbers on land,
+but that of course is now long past and one is as safe here as in any
+other part of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The present-day Singapore is a thriving town of more than 250,000
+inhabitants, and is one of the busiest harbors in the world; more than
+three dozen sea-going steamships may sometimes be seen in the harbor at
+the same time, and the number of rowboats and other small craft is
+legion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i36.jpg" width="600" height="331"
+alt="VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL AND SINGAPORE CRICKET CLUB." />
+<p class="caption">VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL AND SINGAPORE CRICKET CLUB.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On landing one is fairly overwhelmed by the <i>rickisha</i> men, for the
+<i>jinrikisha</i>, the two-wheeled Japanese cart, is <i>the</i> method of travel in
+Singapore, though one may hire a pony wagon (<i>ghari</i>), or even an
+automobile at very reasonable rates. As to the electric cars, or
+"trams," the less said the better; they would disgrace a city of
+one-tenth the size of Singapore.</p>
+
+<p>The streets are excellent and are nearly all level, so that the
+rickishas, usually pulled by Chinese, make good time. Many residents
+own their own rickisha and hire the man by the month; more well-to-do
+people, and there are many wealthy people both native and foreign in
+Singapore, have their own teams and automobiles.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i37.jpg" width="600" height="462"
+alt="THE SCOTCH KIRK." />
+<p class="caption">THE SCOTCH KIRK.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>While there are regular rickisha stands in different parts of town,
+especially near the hotels and other public places, there are few
+streets so unfrequented that one cannot "pick up" a rickisha at a
+moment's notice. Umbrellas are scarcely needed, for in case of a shower
+one may call a rickisha to the curb and be whisked to his destination
+dryshod. In fact there is very little walking done in Singapore,
+especially by Europeans; it is so easy to get into the ever-present and
+alluring rickisha. Moreover, it is very hot in the sun, for Singapore is
+only a little more than one degree from the equator. There is a regular
+scale of prices for public vehicles, but the newcomer is always
+"spotted" and is charged double or treble the regular fare until he
+learns better than to heed the pathetic or indignant protests of the
+rickisha men.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i38.jpg" width="600" height="461"
+alt="Y. M. C. A. BUILDING. Methodist Church in left
+background." />
+<p class="caption">Y. M. C. A. BUILDING. Methodist Church in left
+background.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i39.jpg" width="600" height="447"
+alt="ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE." />
+<p class="caption">ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Like other cities in the East Singapore is a mixture of beauty and
+squalor. In the region of the banks, steamship offices, and wholesale
+houses there are many handsome buildings: but in the Chinese districts
+that make up the greater part of the business section, for the Chinese
+merchants far outnumber all others, there are narrow crowded streets,
+small houses, and large and variagated<!--text to here was originally part of Page 45. Page 46 was fullpage illustration of "YMCA and St. Joseph's" above.--><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> smells. There is also a
+notorious and wide-open red-light district that is a disgrace to a
+modern and supposedly civilized town.</p>
+
+<p>While the saloon is not particularly in evidence the indulgence in
+<i>stengahs</i> (Malay for <i>half</i>), or whiskey and sodas, is well-nigh
+universal among the European population, not always excluding the women
+and clergy. Since alcohol is said to be particularly dangerous in the
+tropics it would be interesting to know the total effect of this general
+indulgence. It is generally conceded that after a few years of tropical
+life Europeans must go home to recuperate; it would be interesting to
+know if the use of strong alcoholics bears any relation to the frequency
+of these necessary trips to temperate regions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i40.jpg" width="600" height="450"
+alt="PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION." />
+<p class="caption">PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Certainly life seems easy and pleasant in Singapore, especially among
+government officials. About eight or nine o'clock in the morning a
+stream of rickishas, carriages and automobiles carries the men down town
+from their pleasant and often very handsome homes uptown or in the
+suburbs. Many of the finest of these homes are owned by wealthy Chinese
+merchants. About five in the afternoon the stream sets in the other
+direction, carrying those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> whose day's work is over back to their cool
+villas or to some recreation ground where tennis, cricket, golf, or
+football may be enjoyed for an hour or two before dark. Dinner is
+usually between seven and eight and is over in time for evening
+entertainments which begin late. Although too far from the beaten tracks
+frequently to enjoy first-class dramatic talent, there are the
+ubiquitous "movies," and for the transient visitor the Malay and Chinese
+theaters are of great interest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i41.jpg" width="600" height="456"
+alt="PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION." />
+<p class="caption">PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>An excellent race course provides entertainment of that sort at frequent
+intervals. For the more serious-minded the extensive Raffles Museum and
+Library is centrally and beautifully located.</p>
+
+<p>The beautiful Anglican Cathedral is the largest church in the city, and
+many other denominations possess smaller but attractive churches.</p>
+
+<p>The central building of all is the beautiful Victoria Memorial Hall with
+its tall clock tower and chimes. In front of this white building is the
+black statue of an elephant, presented to the city by the king of Siam
+to commemorate the first visit ever paid to a foreign city by a Siamese
+monarch. In the neighborhood of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> Cathedral and Memorial Hall are the
+hotels, which are good in most respects but whose charges to transient
+guests are usually exorbitant: here is also the main recreation field
+where cricket, tennis and football are played every afternoon by both
+natives and Europeans.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i42.jpg" width="441" height="600"
+alt="PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION." />
+<p class="caption">PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.<br />
+<span style="font-weight: normal;">Rickishas passing.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>While these churches, residences and parks (including the well-known
+botanical gardens) are interesting, it is the oriental element that has
+the greatest charm for those from other lands. A rickisha ride through
+the teeming streets of the Chinese or Malay quarters, especially at
+night, is most interesting. If taken during the day a Chinese funeral
+procession with its banners, bands and tom-toms may be met; in fact the
+death-rate among the squalid Chinese residents is so high that funerals
+are of very frequent occurrence.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i43.jpg" width="600" height="458"
+alt="THE MOSQUE AT JAHORE." />
+<p class="caption">THE MOSQUE AT JAHORE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the docks and other gathering places one is fascinated by the
+constantly shifting sea of strange faces and costumes; sometimes the
+lack of costume is more noticeable than the costume, as among the
+coolies or laborers from India or Arabia. Chinese, Japanese, various
+races of Malays and East Indians, jostle elbows with Englishmen,
+Americans and every other race under the sun except perhaps, the
+American Indian. It is surely a motley throng and the tower of Babel
+was nowhere compared to this conglomeration of tongues.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>The oriental is a rather mild individual as a rule and wrangling and
+fighting is probably less common than among occidental communities.</p>
+
+<p>Several interesting temples are to be seen in Singapore; their quaint
+architecture is always interesting to the occidental tourist, and the
+hideous images to be seen within will repay the trouble of removing
+one's shoes, which must be done before admittance is granted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i44.jpg" width="600" height="460"
+alt="CANAL AND MARKET PLACE AT JAHORE." />
+<p class="caption">CANAL AND MARKET PLACE AT JAHORE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>When the sights of the city have been exhausted a visit to Jahore on the
+mainland (Singapore is on a small island) of the Malay Peninsula will be
+interesting. Here is the summer palace of H. H. the Sultan of Jahore;
+also a large and handsome mosque. Here is also a wide-open gambling
+establishment where hundreds of Chinese may be seen playing "fantan."</p>
+
+<p>On the return from Jahore, if interested in such things, a visit to a
+rubber estate may be made, and the whole process in the manufacture of
+rubber may be seen in a few hours; it is a strange and fascinating
+process and is, perhaps, the most important industry of the Federated
+Malay States.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>It is interesting to compare Singapore which has been a British colony
+for nearly a century with Manila, a city of about the same size, that
+has been under American rule for less than two decades. The results that
+have been accomplished in the latter place along the lines of
+sanitation, education, and other civilizing influences should make an
+American proud of his native land.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="VI_HOW_RUBBER_IS_MADE" id="VI_HOW_RUBBER_IS_MADE"></a>VI. HOW RUBBER IS MADE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>One of the principal products of the Malay Peninsula is rubber. Like
+most people who have never happened to investigate the matter my ideas
+as to the way in which an automobile tire is extracted from a tree were
+very hazy; so, with another American, who had charge of a mission school
+in Singapore, I boarded the Jahore express on the F. M. S. R. R. (F. M.
+S. meaning Federated Malay States) and after a run of half an hour
+arrived at the Bukit Timar rubber estate some ten miles northwest of
+Singapore.</p>
+
+<p>The Bukit Timar is an up-to-date plantation of more than one hundred
+thousand trees, and here we saw the whole process, from tree to sheet
+rubber, as shipped to all parts of the world and sold by the pound.
+Rubber trees grow to a considerable size, but this being a young
+plantation most of the trees were not over six or eight inches in
+diameter. In the middle of the estate was a very attractive bungalow
+where lived the manager and his wife, a young English couple, and the
+former very courteously showed us about his place and explained the
+different processes.</p>
+
+<p>"Tapping" begins at daybreak, and all the juice or <i>latex</i> is collected
+before noon. Dozens of native and Chinese men and boys are employed in
+this process, some of the latter being so small that they can scarcely
+carry the two buckets of latex on the bamboo stick over the shoulder.</p>
+
+<p>In tapping, a very thin and narrow piece of bark is gouged off, just
+deep enough to make the tree bleed, but not deep enough to kill it; so
+that by the time the bark on one side of the tree has been cut away that
+on the opposite side has had time to regenerate. The process is thus a
+perpetual one and the tree lasts indefinitely.</p>
+
+<p>The exact method of tapping varies, but usually it is begun as two
+slanting grooves that converge to form a V. The latex oozes from the
+freshly cut bark, runs down the converging grooves to their point of
+union, and is caught in a small glass cup or other vessel suspended
+under a tiny spout at the apex of the V. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> method of tapping shown in
+the photograph is different from this somewhat, though the principle is
+the same. The latex that oozes from the grooves is a pure white, sticky
+fluid resembling milk; about a tablespoonful is obtained each day from
+each tree.</p>
+
+<p>By the time each man has tapped or gouged all of the trees assigned to
+him (perhaps two or three hundred) the first-tapped trees have bled all
+they will for that day, so that collecting is begun at once. In each cup
+is a little water to prevent the latex from coagulating and sticking to
+the bottom.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i45.jpg" width="600" height="455"
+alt="HOME OF THE MANAGER OF THE BUKIT TIMAR RUBBER ESTATE NEAR
+SINGAPORE." />
+<p class="caption">HOME OF THE MANAGER OF THE BUKIT TIMAR RUBBER<br />
+ESTATE NEAR SINGAPORE.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The first V is cut several feet from the ground, and the amount that is
+gouged from each side of the V each day is so very thin that it will be
+months before the apex of the V reaches the ground, by which time the
+regeneration of the first cuts will be well under way.</p>
+
+<p>After the flow of latex has ceased for the day a narrow strip hardens
+along each groove, like gum on a cherry tree. These little strips of
+rubber, with bits of adherent bark, as well as any drops that may have
+fallen to the ground, are collected in bags and carried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> to the factory
+to be made into sheets of cheap grades of commercial rubber.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i46.jpg" width="429" height="600"
+alt="A YOUNG RUBBER TREE SHOWING ONE METHOD OF TAPPING." />
+<p class="caption">A YOUNG RUBBER TREE SHOWING ONE METHOD OF TAPPING.</p>
+<p class="captionblockquot">The white lines are the latex running down the grooves into the
+glass cup at the bottom. Above the two slanting lines is seen
+the scarred tissue where the bark has been gouged away. When
+the lower end of the lower line reaches the ground the tree will
+be tapped on the opposite side. The amount of latex in the cup
+seems greater than it really is because of the water upon which
+it floats. The size of the tree may be judged from the kodak
+case at its foot.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the trees have been tapped the latex is collected in carefully
+cleaned tin buckets, brought to the factory and strained into huge
+earthenware tubs. It is then put into enamelware pans about twelve by
+thirty-six inches in size and three inches deep, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> very weak acid
+(usually acetic) is stirred into it. In about half an hour the acid
+coagulates the latex (like rennet in making junket from milk) into a
+soft, pure white mass, about two inches thick and of the area of the
+pan. This soft mass of rubber is carefully floated out of the pan onto a
+table, where it is rolled on both sides for a few minutes with a wooden
+rolling-pin to squeeze out the excess of water and acid. It is then
+carefully lifted into a large vessel of pure water to harden until the
+next day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i47.jpg" width="600" height="463"
+alt="THREE LATEX GATHERERS." />
+<p class="caption">THREE LATEX GATHERERS.</p>
+<p class="captionblockquot">
+The boy in the middle of the group has the canvass bag over his
+shoulder in which he carries the scraps of dried rubber from the
+grooves on the trees.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The next day it is run several times through smooth steel rollers under
+dropping water, where it is flattened out into sheets of about an inch
+or less in thickness and of a proportionately greater area. It is next
+passed through roughened steel rollers that mark it off into ridges and
+depressions like a waffle.</p>
+
+<p>These sheets, now tough and elastic, are hung in a closed chamber and
+smoked until they reach a proper shade of brown, when they are ready for
+shipment. The smoking process, which is to preserve the rubber, often
+takes many days, though at the time of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>our visit the manager of the
+Bukit Timar estate was experimenting with a method that would complete
+the smoking in a few hours.</p>
+
+<p>The production of rubber in the Malay Peninsula is of rather recent date
+and it has increased by leaps and bounds. In the various "booms" that
+have taken place many fortunes have been made&mdash;as witnessed by the
+palatial residences about Singapore&mdash;but many have also been lost, though
+the witnesses to these are not so evident.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i48.jpg" width="600" height="463"
+alt="THE TRAVELER PALM, AN UNUSUAL TYPE OFTEN SEEN IN THE FAR
+EAST SINGAPORE AND ELSEWHERE." />
+<p class="caption">THE TRAVELER PALM, AN UNUSUAL TYPE OFTEN SEEN IN<br />
+THE FAR EAST SINGAPORE AND ELSEWHERE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whether the increased demands for rubber will justify the thousands of
+young trees that are still being planted, not only on the Malay
+Peninsula but on Borneo and other islands of the Far East, remains to be
+seen; but, judging from the opinions of several rubber experts of
+Singapore, this is quite doubtful.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p>
+<h2>VII. TWO CHINESE CITIES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>After a voyage (unusually calm for the China Sea) of four days from
+Singapore, the S. S. "B&uuml;low" slowly steamed among the islands at the
+entrance and came to anchor just after sunset in the beautiful harbor of
+Hongkong. There is really no <i>city</i> of Hongkong, though letters so
+directed will reach their destination, and even the residents of the
+city in whose harbor we were anchored would have spoken of living in
+Hongkong. The name "Hongkong" belongs to the small island, ten miles
+long by three wide, that lies about a mile from the mainland of China.
+Along the north or land side of this island lies the city of Victoria,
+with a population of 350,000, commonly known by the name of the entire
+island, Hongkong.</p>
+
+<p>Practically the whole island is occupied by mountains of a maximum
+height of about 1800 feet, so that the town has only a narrow strip of
+level ground along the beach and extends in scattered fashion to the
+very top of the ridge.</p>
+
+<p>As we came to anchor the twinkling lights of the streets and houses were
+just beginning to appear, and in a little while, when the short tropical
+twilight had changed to darkness, the shore line was a mass of lights
+which gradually became more scattered toward the hill-tops, where often
+a single light marked the location of some isolated residence. Across
+the harbor another smaller group of lights showed the position of
+Kowloon, a small seaport on the mainland and the southern terminus of
+the Kowloon and Canton Railroad. On the water between the two towns,
+really one great harbor, were thousands of lights, indicating the
+position of invisible steamships, junks, tugs, launches and sampans.
+Most of these lights were stationary, showing that the vessels to which
+they belonged were at anchor, but some of them were in motion, and
+hardly had we come slowly to a standstill and dropped anchor before we
+were besieged by a swarm of launches and sampans all clamoring for
+passengers to take ashore.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>As is customary in the East, steamers usually anchor in the harbor at
+Hongkong at some distance from shore, so that the larger hotels, as well
+as Cook's Agency, have private launches to take passengers ashore. Since
+it was rather late to see anything of the town most of the cabin
+passengers preferred to remain on board for the night, and the view of
+the lights of the harbor and town as seen from the ship was well worth
+enjoying for one evening.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i49.jpg" width="600" height="363"
+alt="VIEW ON &quot;THE PEAK&quot;; GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE IN THE LEFT
+BACKGROUND." />
+<p class="caption">VIEW ON "THE PEAK"; GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE IN THE LEFT
+BACKGROUND.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The next morning we were able to see the meaning of the lights of the
+night before. The business part of the town, with its crowded Chinese
+sections and its fine municipal and office buildings, lies as a narrow
+strip along the shore, while struggling up the mountain side are the
+residences, churches, schools, etc. of the English and wealthy Chinese
+residents. On this mountain side is also a most beautiful and
+interesting botanical garden. On the highest point of "The Peak," as the
+main peak of the range is called, is a weather observatory and signal
+station, and from this point one of the most beautiful views in the
+world may be obtained; to the south, the open China Sea, with numberless
+green islands extending almost to the horizon; to the north, the
+mainland of China, fringed with low mountains; between the mainland and
+the island the long, narrow strait forming the harbors of Victoria and
+Kowloon; at the foot of the mountain the densely crowded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> business
+streets; and extending up the almost precipitous northern slopes of the
+mountain the beautiful, often palatial homes of the wealthy residents.
+Winding along the mountain sides a number of fine roads and paths give
+access to these homes, but to reach the higher levels, especially, there
+may be seen the cable tramway, going so straight up the side of the
+mountain that it is almost alarming to look forward or back from the
+open cars. The homes nearer the foot of the mountain are usually reached
+by means of sedan chairs carried by two, three or even four coolies,
+while in the level business section the usual means of travel are the
+electric cars and the ever-ready rickishas. Horses are practically
+unknown except for racing purposes; carts are pulled by Chinese coolies
+instead of by horses, and merchandise is carried by coolies in baskets
+or bales on the shoulders. It is an interesting though unpleasant sight
+to see strings of Chinese men and women toiling up the steep sides of
+the mountain, carrying stones, cement, window frames, timbers, and all
+other material used in building the palaces in which the wealthy people
+live. For a day of this back-breaking labor they are paid about what one
+of their rich employers would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> give for one of his best cigars. Every
+stick, stone and nail in all of these houses has been carried up all
+these hundreds of feet on the backs of men and women, chiefly the
+latter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i50.jpg" width="600" height="466"
+alt="CHINESE JUNKS IN THE HARBOR OF CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">CHINESE JUNKS IN THE HARBOR OF CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In a beautiful little level valley between the bases of two of the
+mountains is the play ground of Hongkong, known as "Happy Valley"; here
+are tennis courts, a golf course, etc. overlooked on either side, rather
+incongruously, by a Chinese and a Christian burial ground.</p>
+
+<p>Having visited the various points of interest about Hongkong, which is
+really a part of the British Empire (ceded by the Chinese in 1841)
+though a vast majority of its residents are Chinese, I decided to have a
+look at a real Chinese city, Canton, located about ninety miles up the
+Canton River. As Canton happened to be in the throes of a revolution at
+that time, people were flocking by the thousands from there to Hongkong.
+Cook's Agency was warning people to keep away, and Hongkong papers had
+as headlines "Serious Outlook in Canton"; but I did not expect ever to
+have another chance to visit this typical Chinese city, so I boarded one
+of the boats of the French line that left Hongkong late in the evening
+for the run up the river. I learned later that one of these boats had
+been "shot up" a few days before by the revolutionists, and that a
+number of the passengers had been killed. However we were not molested,
+and reached Canton about eight the next morning.</p>
+
+<p>After daylight we were able to get an idea of the country on either bank
+of the muddy river; it was low and marshy, every acre being planted in
+rice. Occasionally, on a slight elevation, would be seen a pagoda-shaped
+temple, standing lonely among the rice fields, where doubtless it had
+stood for many centuries.</p>
+
+<p>At frequent intervals we passed small native boats, some of them with
+sails and loaded with goods, most of them rowed by one or more oars. It
+was to be noticed that when there was only one oar it was being worked
+vigorously by a woman, while a man sat comfortably in the stern and
+steered. These people were evidently going from the crowded villages in
+which they lived to work in the rice fields.</p>
+
+<p>At Canton the river, which is there only a few hundred yards wide, was
+jammed with craft of all kinds, including one or two small war vessels
+and hundreds, probably thousands, of <i>sampans</i>. The latter carry
+passengers and small quantities of freight; they are roofed over more or
+less completely and serve as the homes of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> the owners' families, all the
+members of which take a hand in the rowing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i51.jpg" width="600" height="384"
+alt="SAMPANS IN THE HARBOUR OF CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">SAMPANS IN THE HARBOUR OF CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The foreign (mostly English and French) quarter of Canton is known as
+"the Shameen" (meaning sand-bank), a small island<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> in the river
+connected with the city proper by a couple of bridges. It has
+beautifully shaded streets and fine houses, and is utterly different
+from the Chinese Canton. At the Shameen's one hotel, which charges the
+modest rate of from four to eight dollars per day for very ordinary
+service, I was told that conditions were "very uncertain" and that
+nobody was allowed to enter the walled city after 9 P. M. without a
+pass.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i52.jpg" width="452" height="600"
+alt="A WIDE STREET IN CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">A WIDE STREET IN CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A guide having thrust his services upon me before I could get off the
+boat, we left the Shameen, crossed one of the bridges and plunged into
+the network of streets where, without a guide, a stranger would be lost
+in a few minutes.</p>
+
+<p>In a few of the streets outside of the walled city rickishas are the
+usual means of travel, but inside the walls most of the streets are too
+narrow for rickishas to pass one another, and paving of large flagstones
+is too rough for wheels, so that the sedan chair<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> is the only means of
+locomotion except one's own legs. My self-appointed guide said he would
+get chairs for seven dollars per day ($3.00 in American money) but I
+told him I expected to walk and that if he wanted to go with me he would
+have to do likewise; he immediately professed to think that walking was
+the only way to go, so we agreed to see the town afoot. After we had
+walked pretty briskly for three or four hours he inquired meekly, "Can
+you walk this way all day?" People in the tropics are not usually fond
+of walking, but Ping Nam was "game" and made no further remarks about my
+method of locomotion. Some of the less frequented streets where there
+were no sun-screens overhead were very hot, but in the busy streets the
+sun was almost excluded by bamboo screens and by the walls of the houses
+on each side, so that the heat was not nearly so oppressive as might be
+expected in so terribly congested a city. Many of these streets were so
+narrow that a tall man could touch the houses on each side with
+outstretched hands.</p>
+
+<p>On each side were stores of all sorts with open fronts with gay signs
+and with gayly colored goods on display, making a picture of wonderful
+fascination and everchanging interest.</p>
+
+<p>Although we wandered for hour after hour through a perfect wilderness of
+such streets we saw not a single white person; it seemed as though I
+were the only Caucasian among the more than a million Asiatics, though
+this, of course, was not actually the case.</p>
+
+<p>In the busier streets the crowds filled the space from wall to wall, so
+that when a string of coolies came along, bearing burdens in the usual
+manner from a stick over the shoulder and humming the cheerful though
+monotonous "get-out-of-the-way" tune, we had to step aside, close
+against or into some store to let them pass; and when an occasional
+chair came along it swept the entire traffic aside as a taxi might in a
+crowded alley of an American city.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the density of the population the people all seemed happy
+and contented; even the little children with faces covered with sores,
+as was often the case, appeared cheerful, and ran and played like other
+children.</p>
+
+<p>In the stores the people could be watched at work of all kinds, from
+blacksmithy to finest filigree silver work inlaid with the tiny colored
+feathers of the brightly colored kingfisher; and from rough carpenter
+work to the finest ivory carving for which the Chinese are famous. Of
+course the amount they pay for some of this work of extreme skill is
+ridiculously small, yet their living expenses are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> so small that they
+are doubtless in better circumstances than many of the workers in our
+larger cities.</p>
+
+<p>The silk-weavers, working at their primitive looms in crowded rooms,
+excite one's sympathy more than most of the other workers, though they
+too seemed to be quite cheerful over their monotonous tasks.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i53.jpg" width="600" height="451"
+alt="COURT OF AN ANCESTRAL TEMPLE IN CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">COURT OF AN ANCESTRAL TEMPLE IN CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Through these crowded streets we wandered, the sight of a white man and
+a camera exciting some interest, though not a great deal. Canton is said
+to have been the scene of more outrages of one sort or another than any
+other city in the world, but in spite of the fact that a revolution was
+supposed to be in progress we saw no signs of disorder. There were
+soldiers and armed policemen everywhere, and groups of people were
+frequently seen reading with interest proclamations posted at various
+places; what the nature of the proclamations was I was, of course, not
+able of myself to learn, and Ping Nam did not seem to care to enlighten
+me, possibly thinking he might scare me out of town and thus lose his
+job.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally stopping to watch some skilful artisan at work or to make
+some small purchase, we went from place to place visiting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> temples and
+other objects of especial interest. Some of these temples are centuries
+old, others are comparatively new. Some are comparatively plain, others
+like the modern Chun-ka-chi ancestral temple, which is said to have cost
+$750,000 "gold," are wonderfully ornate, with highly colored carvings
+and cement mouldings. Others are of interest chiefly because of the
+hideous images they contain; one of these has hundreds of these idols
+and is hence known as the "Temple of the Five Hundred Genii."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i54.jpg" width="600" height="452"
+alt="ENTRANCE OF THE &quot;TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII,&quot;
+CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">ENTRANCE OF THE "TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII,"
+CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After visiting several of these temples and the picturesque flowery
+pagoda we set out for the famous water clock that is said to have been
+built more than thirteen hundred years ago. It is now located in a dark
+little room in the top of an old house and is reached by a winding
+flight of outside stone stairs. It consists of four large jars of water,
+one above the other, so that the water may run slowly, at a definite
+rate, from the upper to the lower jars, and gradually raise, in the
+lowest jar, a float with an attached vertical scale that tells the time.
+In the window visible from the street below signs are placed at
+intervals that tell the time indicated by the clock.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>From the water clock we visited the ancient "City of the Dead," a small
+cemetery just outside one of the old city gates. These gates, some of
+which are large and imposing, pierce the dilapidated wall at intervals.
+The wall, about six miles in circumference, is surrounded by the remains
+of a moat, now chiefly useful as an addition to the picturesque
+landscape and as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The top of a city
+gate, reached by a winding stone stairway from within, is a convenient
+place from which to view the densely crowded roofs of the adjacent part
+of the city.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i55.jpg" width="444" height="600"
+alt="THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the "City of the Dead" we made for the fairly wide street along the
+river front; here we took rickishas, much to the relief of my tired
+guide, to say nothing of my tired self, and were soon at the Canton
+terminus of the K. &amp; C. R. R. The station was thronged with people
+waiting for the Kowloon express.</p>
+
+<p>The road-bed of the K. &amp; C. R. R. is excellent, and the cars and engine,
+all of English make, made a very respectable appearance.</p>
+
+<p>For nearly half of the distance to Kowloon I had my section of the one
+first-class car to myself, as I was the only Caucasian on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>the train:
+then an English civil engineer and his family came aboard and shared my
+compartment for the rest of the way. The second- and third-class cars, of
+which there were half a dozen or more, were crowded with natives, with
+boxes and bundles of all sorts and sizes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i56.jpg" width="600" height="456"
+alt="A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN FROM
+THE &quot;CITY OF THE DEAD,&quot; CANTON." />
+<p class="caption">A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN<br />
+FROM THE "CITY OF THE DEAD," CANTON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After making the run of about ninety miles in something less than three
+hours we reached the ferry at Kowloon, and in a quarter of an hour more
+we were again in Hongkong, as different from Canton as though it were on
+the other side of the world instead of being only three hours away.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+<h2>VIII. MEANDERINGS IN MODERN MANILA.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Manila, after twenty years of American control, is a fascinating mixture
+of past and present; of romance and commercialism; of oriental ease and
+occidental hustle.</p>
+
+<p>Enter through one of the beautiful old city gates, say the Santa Lucia,
+which bears the date 1781, and one finds himself in the old or walled
+city, Intramuros, still very Spanish in its appearance, though the
+government offices and other public buildings are here located. The
+massive gray stone wall, started in the early part of the seventeenth
+century, was originally surrounded by a moat, with drawbridges. It is
+said that a very efficient American official once suggested the
+desirability of having the wall whitewashed; fortunately his idea was
+not carried out.</p>
+
+<p>In contrast to the comparative quiet of the narrow streets of the
+Intramuros the docks along the Pasig River, that flows through the heart
+of the town, present a scene of bustle and confusion worthy of a city of
+its size, some 300,000 inhabitants. Here may be seen vessels of all
+sorts, from all parts of the world: steamships, junks, tugs, rowboats,
+and <i>cascos</i>, the last being the name given the native barge for carrying
+freight. The casco is covered by a roof of matting, made in sliding
+sections, with a cabin in the stern where the family of the owner lives.</p>
+
+<p>While there is an excellent electric street railway system and plenty of
+automobiles to be had, the common method of getting about is to 'phone
+for, or to hail, a passing one-horse vehicle, of which there are three
+distinct types charging different fares for the same service; the more
+expensive vehicles are, however, more comfortable and have better
+horses. Like the taxi-driver of New York or the rickisha-man of
+Singapore the driver of the <i>caratella</i> or <i>caramata</i> will charge all the
+traffic will bear, and it is well for the newcomer to inquire of an old
+resident what the proper fare for a given distance is before starting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i57.jpg" width="447" height="600"
+alt="SANTA LUCIA GATE." />
+<p class="caption">SANTA LUCIA GATE.<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">One of the entrances to the Walled City. Erected 1781.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>The typical vehicle for hauling freight is the low, two-wheeled cart,
+drawn by the slow-moving, long-horned <i>carabao</i> or water buffalo, one of
+the most characteristic animals of the islands. This beast is
+well-named, since it delights to lie buried in a muddy pool of water,
+with just its head above the surface. It may be seen in the larger
+lakes, swimming or wading in the deeper waters at a distance from the
+shore. In the cities it is a quiet, peaceful brute that one brushes
+against without a thought, but in the country, where is browses in the
+open fields, it behooves the white man to be very circumspect as he
+passes in its neighborhood, for it seems to have an aversion to the
+Caucasian race and will frequently charge in a very unpleasant, not to
+say dangerous, way. It is said that the carabao never shows this
+hostility toward the natives. A peculiarity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> of the law is such that
+should a man shoot a dangerous carabao to protect his own life he would
+have to pay for the animal he killed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i58.jpg" width="600" height="436"
+alt="PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY." />
+<p class="caption">PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY.<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">Seen from the outside.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of course for small amounts of freight, in Manila as in all places in
+the Orient, the ubiquitous Chinese coolie is the usual means of
+transportation, and with a huge load at each end of a bamboo pole across
+his shoulder he shambles along with a curious gait, between a walk and a
+run, that he seems capable of sustaining for an almost indefinite time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i59.jpg" width="600" height="431"
+alt="PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA." />
+<p class="caption">PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA.<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">Casco in right foreground, with matting roof.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The "Chino" of course is the merchant of Manila as of all the cities of
+this part of the world. The main shopping street, the Escolta, is fairly
+lined with Chinese stores of all sorts, some of them quite extensive;
+and some of the narrower side streets, in the same neighborhood, have
+practically no other stores than those kept by the Chinese. It is
+wonderfully interesting to wander about these narrow, winding streets,
+and into the dark, sometimes ill-smelling stores, but one should early
+learn the gentle art of "jewing down" the prices that are first asked
+for goods that are offered for sale. The Oriental always asks much more
+than he is willing or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> even eager to accept. You ask the price of a
+garment, say, and are told "Two pesos": you shake your head and say "Too
+much": "Peso and half" will then be tried: you again say "Too much" and
+perhaps turn as though to leave the shop; "How much you give?" says the
+crafty merchant; "One peso," perhaps you suggest; "Take it," says the
+eager merchant as he hands you an article that should probably sell for
+half the amount paid. You leave the store feeling good over having
+gotten ahead of the crafty Oriental, and he probably chuckles to himself
+over having cheated the rich American.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i60.jpg" width="600" height="429"
+alt="A CARAMATA." />
+<p class="caption">A CARAMATA.<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">The taxi of the lower classes in Manila.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i61.jpg" width="600" height="444"
+alt="A CARABAO AND CART." />
+<p class="caption">A CARABAO AND CART.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>Most of the shopping is done in the morning or late in the afternoon.
+For several hours, during the heat of the day, many of the stores are
+closed while the proprietors enjoy a midday lunch and siesta.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i62.jpg" width="600" height="432"
+alt="PLAZA DE SANTO TOMAS." />
+<p class="caption">PLAZA DE SANTO TOMAS.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>When tired of shopping or sight-seeing one may wander into a nearby
+church or rest in some public park or square, such as the Plaza de Santo
+Tomas. Many of these old squares are exceedingly picturesque and
+attractive.</p>
+
+<p>The different sections of the city are given distinct names, as though
+they were separate towns, but they are separated by imaginary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> lines
+only. In one of the more residential of these sections is the great
+Manila General Hospital, an up-to-date, modern plant; nearby is the main
+part of the University of the Philippines, whose students, it is said,
+compare quite favorably with the average college students of America. In
+this same neighborhood is also the main part of the Philippine Bureau of
+Science, where trained chemists, geologists, botanists, zoologists,
+bacteriologists, engineers, and other scientific experts are engaged in
+numerous lines of investigation of importance to the welfare of the
+islands. Most of these experts have, in the past, been drawn from the
+United States, as have the professors in the University. Just what will
+be the condition of affairs in these high-grade institutions when the
+islands are entirely under native control is somewhat problematic.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i63.jpg" width="600" height="422"
+alt="MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES." />
+<p class="caption">MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>While the hotels are not numerous in Manila one may secure the best of
+modern service by going to the Manila Hotel, down on the water-front,
+just off the great promenade and playground known as the Lunetta, where
+everybody goes at night to see everybody else and to listen to the band.
+Or one may see more of the native, especially the Spanish, life of the
+town by stopping at the Hotel de Spain, in the heart of the town, just
+off the Escolta. Here one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>may be quite, if not luxuriously, comfortable
+at a much more reasonable rate, and may enjoy watching the Spanish and
+other foreign guests of the hotel instead of the usual crowd of military
+and other well-dressed Americans that frequent the Manila Hotel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i64.jpg" width="600" height="436"
+alt="MAIN BUILDING OF THE PHILIPPINE BUREAU OF SCIENCE." />
+<p class="caption">MAIN BUILDING OF THE PHILIPPINE BUREAU OF SCIENCE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the population of Manila largely adheres to the Roman Catholic
+Church, many of the Protestant denominations have churches of their own,
+and a flourishing Y. M. C. A., with a fine, modern building, is
+available for the men of the city.</p>
+
+<p>Life in such a town is certainly very attractive, and there is a charm
+about the place that makes one wish to return; but it is a long, long
+way from home and from many of the things that may be had only in the
+greater countries of Europe and America.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+<h2>IX. A PACIFIC PARADISE, HONOLULU.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The long voyage to or from the Orient is delightfully interrupted by the
+stop at Honolulu, capital of the Hawaiian Islands, about 2,100 miles
+southwest of San "Francisco. This interesting group of volcanic islands
+named in 1778 by their discoverer, Jas. Cook, the Sandwich Islands after
+the Earl of Sandwich, then Lord of the British Admiralty, is said to be
+the most isolated group of inhabited islands in the world. It is
+possible that the real discoverer of the islands was not Jas. Cook, but
+a Spanish seaman named Juan Gaetano, who sighted them in 1555. Cook and
+his men were treated as supernatural beings and worshiped by the
+superstitious natives as gods, until the death of one of the sailors
+showed that they were mere mortals; and in 1779, by their overbearing
+conduct, the Englishmen came into conflict with the irate natives and
+Jas. Cook was killed. "His body was taken to a <i>heiau</i> or temple; the
+flesh was removed from the bones and burned, and the bones were tied up
+with red feathers and deified. Parts of the body were recovered,
+however, and committed to the deep with military honors, and a part of
+the bones were kept in the temple of Lono and worshiped until 1819, when
+they were concealed in some secret place. A monument erected by his
+fellow countrymen now marks the place where he fell on the shores of
+Kealakekua."</p>
+
+<p>In 1893 the queen was deposed and a provisional government was
+established, to be succeeded, in 1894, by the Republic of Hawaii. In
+1900, by an act of Congress, the Hawaiian Islands became a territory of
+the United States. Of the one hundred and ninety and odd thousands of
+inhabitants of the islands, in 1910, nearly eighty thousand were
+Japanese. The native Hawaiians come next in point of numbers and are the
+most interesting people to the average tourist. Though dark-skinned,
+they are quite different in appearance from the negro, and many of the
+young men and women are decidedly good-looking.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>As the vessel enters the beautiful harbor, with the city of Honolulu
+spread out along the shore and the mountains rising abruptly in the
+immediate background, the well-formed young men and boys are seen
+alongside in the water or in native boats, ready to dive for the coins
+that the passengers seem always ready to throw to them. These amphibious
+people, like most of those in the tropics, are perfectly at home in the
+water and seem never to tire, no matter how far they may go to meet the
+incoming vessels, as they slowly wind their way through the tortuous
+channels among the treacherous coral reefs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i65.jpg" width="600" height="435"
+alt="DIAMOND HEAD, A FORTIFIED EXTINCT VOLCANO." />
+<p class="caption">DIAMOND HEAD, A FORTIFIED EXTINCT VOLCANO.<br />
+<span style="font-weight: normal;">At the entrance to the harbor of Honolulu.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the south of the entrance to the harbor, which it guards with
+batteries of concealed cannon and mortars, is the extinct volcanic
+mountain known as Diamond Head, shown from the land side in the picture.
+A grass-covered, bowl-shaped crater of perhaps half a mile diameter may
+be entered through a tunnel on the land side, where Fort Ruger is
+situated. The rim of the crater, which is only a few hundred feet high,
+may be easily scaled and in most places affords easy walking and a fine
+view of the harbor. In the higher portion of the rim, seen in the right
+of the photograph, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> a heavy battery of big guns, concealed in
+passages in the solid rock, that could probably protect the entrance of
+the harbor below from any ordinary fleet. Visitors are not allowed to
+see these rock-hidden batteries, whose existence would never be
+suspected from the smooth, apparently unbroken surface of the rock as
+seen from the harbor.</p>
+
+<p>Like many other beautiful places, Hawaii is said to have the "most
+perfect climate in the world." Add to this wonderful climate and
+beautiful scenery, of sea and mountains combined, the fact that there is
+supposed to be not a snake nor a poisonous plant nor an insect worse
+than bees in all the islands, it would seem that this is truly a
+paradise, without even the serpent to cause trouble.</p>
+
+<p>For the tourist there are excellent hotels and all the conveniences of a
+continental city, and amusements of sufficient variety to suit the most
+blase. For those who are merely stopping off for a day on the way to or
+from more distant ports it is hard to decide which of the many
+interesting places to visit. If it be his first visit, the mere city
+streets with the royal palms and other magnificent trees, the stores,
+the cosmopolitan crowds and other strange sights and sounds will be
+fascinating. A drive to the Punchbowl, the Poli, or more distant points,
+may be taken in a few hours, while if interested in natural history the
+gorgeous fishes and other marine forms to be seen at the Aquarium will
+be a revelation to one accustomed only to the life of the temperate
+zone.</p>
+
+<p>At the Bishop Museum the natural history, ethnology, etc., of the
+islands may be studied in a synoptic form. It is here that the famous
+war-cloak of Kamehameha I is on exhibition. It is a truly wonderful
+garment, four feet long, with a spread of ten feet or more at the
+bottom. It is made of the yellow feathers of the mama bird, and when it
+is realized that each bird furnishes but two small tufts of feathers,
+one under each wing, it will be imagined how many thousands of these
+small birds were sacrificed to make this one robe. It is valued at
+$150,000. It is carefully protected from dust and light but is exhibited
+to visitors to the museum.</p>
+
+<p>In the cool of the evening, when tired from a day of sight-seeing, the
+traveler may listen to the Honolulu Band, on some public square. It is
+composed of native musicians, but the instruments are those of the
+ordinary American brass band, and but for the cosmopolitan character of
+the audience one might imagine himself in a city of southern California
+or some other subtropical part of the United States.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>Besides having the most equable climate in the world Honolulu claims the
+most perfect bathing-resort on earth, Waikiki Beach. The water is
+certainly all that could be desired, but the not infrequent sharp masses
+of coral that project up through the white sand of the otherwise perfect
+beach are decidedly objectionable, and the writer cut a gash in his
+foot, by stepping on one of these pieces of coral, that was many days in
+healing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="imgborder" src="images/i66.jpg" width="447" height="600"
+alt="ROYAL PALMS, HONOLULU." />
+<p class="caption">ROYAL PALMS, HONOLULU.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Another of the points of interest in the city is the Royal Mausoleum,
+where are the bodies of many of the royalty of the Hawaiian dynasties.
+The Hawaiian alphabet consists of but twelve letters, and the
+preponderance of vowels in many words seems remarkable to an
+English-speaking person. For example one of the bodies in the Royal
+Mausoleum is that of "Kaiminaauao, sister of Queen Kalakaua"; it will be
+noticed that eight of the eleven letters in this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> name are vowels. In
+this Mausoleum doubtless now rest the remains of Liliuokalani, the last
+queen of Hawaii, who was deposed in 1893 for attempting to force a less
+liberal constitution upon the people. She married an American and twice
+visited the United States, after his death.</p>
+
+<p>If time permit, and the pocketbook too, most interesting side trips to
+the other islands of the group may be made, especially to the active
+volcano, Mauna Loa, 13,760 feet high, with Kilauea on its eastern slope,
+situated on the Island of Hawaii.</p>
+
+<p>While the Hawaiian Islands may not be as perfect as they are advertised,
+they nevertheless give a very fair imitation of Paradise, and a better
+place in which to rest and enjoy nature in her kindest moods would be
+hard to find.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="tnote">
+
+<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Notes:</b></p>
+
+<p>Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (nearby, near-by)</p>
+
+<p>Pg. 45, unusual spelling of word "variagated" retained. (and large and variagated smells)</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
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+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wanderings in the Orient
+
+Author: Albert M. Reese
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26707]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  WANDERINGS IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+  BY
+
+  ALBERT M. REESE
+
+
+  WITH SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+
+  CHICAGO LONDON
+  THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  1919
+
+
+
+
+  COPYRIGHT BY
+  THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  1919
+
+
+  PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+Foreword                                           5
+
+   I. Life in a Philippine Village                 7
+
+  II. A Visit to Tay Tay                          18
+
+ III. The Leper Colony of Culion                  24
+
+  IV. From Zamboanga to Singapore                 29
+
+   V. Singapore, the Melting Pot of the East      42
+
+  VI. How Rubber Is Made                          53
+
+ VII. Two Chinese Cities                          58
+
+VIII. Meanderings in Modern Manila                69
+
+  IX. A Pacific Paradise, Honolulu                77
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD.
+
+
+To most Americans, "going abroad" means visiting Europe. Since European
+travel will doubtless be unsatisfactory for some years to come, the
+globetrotter may well turn his attention to the Far East which, while
+not so accessible, is after all easily reached if the cost be not
+prohibitive; and the ubiquitous Cook is nearly always on hand to help
+the traveler out of difficulties.
+
+The trip across the Pacific is of course a long one, but the journey is
+interrupted, before the end of the first week, by a stop at that
+tropical paradise, the Hawaiian Islands.
+
+If one should need a complete rest, this seven thousand mile voyage is
+just the thing. If he desire he may read or study to good advantage. If
+inclined to sea-sickness there is plenty of time to recover and still
+enjoy the greater part of the journey. While the distances between
+stopping places are often great one feels that he can "do" a place in
+much less time than it would take in Europe, where objects of historic
+and other interest are so crowded together. If interested in the work of
+foreign missions abundant opportunity offers for their study at first
+hand.
+
+It was chiefly during these journeys between stopping places that the
+following sketches were written, as a sort of diary or log, illustrated
+by photographs taken by the writer.
+
+On a beautiful morning in May the U. S. Army Transport "Sherman," after
+a voyage of twenty-eight days from San Francisco, tied up at the dock in
+Manila. The regular lines make the trip in much less time than the
+leisurely transports, but the writer, as a representative of the
+Smithsonian Institution, was furnished passage on the government vessel.
+With Manila as headquarters, collecting trips were made to various
+regions roundabout. Some of these places are described in the following
+chapters.
+
+Finally, upon one of the inter-island transports, a trip to the
+southernmost islands of the Philippine group was made, ending at
+Zamboanga, where the North German Lloyd steamer was taken for Singapore,
+via Borneo. From Singapore a four days' trip, without stop, brought us
+to Hongkong; whence, after seeing that place and the nearby city of
+Canton, a two days' trip brought us again to Manila. It is the various
+places visited in this more or less out-of-the-way circuit that are
+described in the remaining chapters.
+
+  A. M. R.
+
+  MORGANTOWN, W. VA.
+
+
+
+
+I. LIFE IN A PHILIPPINE VILLAGE.
+
+
+The little village or _barrio_ of Mariveles is situated just inside the
+narrow cape that forms the northern border of the entrance to Manila
+Bay. The city of Manila lies out of sight, thirty miles to the
+southeast, but the island of Corregidor lies only seven miles to the
+south, and the great searchlights at night are quite dazzling when
+turned directly upon the village. A large amount of money has recently
+been spent in fortifying Corregidor until it is now considered
+practically impregnable.
+
+The village extends for about half a mile close along the beach and is
+flanked, on the west, by the buildings of a United States quarantine
+station.
+
+Arriving by a very dilapidated launch from Manila I waited at the
+government dock while the native boy I had brought with me went to the
+village to find, if possible, a vacant house. He soon returned, with
+another boy to help carry our baggage, (there was not a cart or wagon of
+any sort in the place) and with the information that he had engaged a
+house for our use. A whole house for two people sounded rather
+formidable but as this house contained only two rooms its rental was not
+as extravagant as might have been imagined. It was located on the main
+thoroughfare which had the very American name of Washington Street. Like
+the typical native house, our Washington Street mansion was built
+chiefly of bamboo and _nipa_ palm, with a few heavier timbers in the
+framework. Upon the main timbers of the frame was built a sort of
+lattice of split bamboo, upon which in turn was sewed, shinglewise,
+close layers of nipa palm that are quite impervious to rain, are fairly
+durable, and are very inflammable. The _people's_ floor was elevated
+four or five feet above the ground, thereby securing not only air and
+dryness for the people above, but also providing a very convenient
+chicken-coop and pig-pen beneath. The floor was made of split bamboo
+which made sweeping easy--merely a matter of pushing the dirt
+through the cracks between the strips of bamboo.
+
+[Illustration: MARIVELES VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN, FROM MANILA BAY.]
+
+Although the smell of even a _clean_ pig under the dining-room table is
+rather objectionable at first, as is the crowing of two or three
+roosters early in the morning, it is surprising how soon one becomes
+accustomed to these little annoyances, and it simplifies domestic
+science considerably to be able to throw, from one's seat at table,
+banana skins and other scraps through a convenient hole in the floor and
+have them immediately disposed of by the pig and chickens beneath.
+
+[Illustration: OUR RESIDENCE ON "WASHINGTON STREET."]
+
+The dining room, as in many American houses, also served as a kitchen.
+The stove was a large box, elevated two or three feet from the floor,
+lined with baked clay upon which the fire is made. Large iron spikes,
+arranged in groups of three, may be imbedded in the clay to hold one or
+more pots of different sizes. There was no chimney, but a convenient
+window carried out the smoke quite effectively. The fire-wood was stored
+under the house in the pig-pen and consisted chiefly of short sticks of
+such diameter as could be easily cut with the large knife or bolo that
+the natives wear suspended from a belt at the waist. The sticks, when
+the cooking is done, are simply withdrawn from beneath the pot and lie
+ready to be pushed in again when the fire is lit for the next meal. A
+very few sticks will thus serve for cooking a large number of the simple
+native meals. Opening from the kitchen was the front door, leading to
+the ground by a flight of stairs or a ladder. Thanks to the United
+States Mariveles is supplied with abundant water, piped from some miles
+up in the mountains, and some of the better houses of the barrio have a
+private faucet on the back porch, which is luxury indeed. The main room
+of the house was used as a living room and bedroom. In such houses there
+are usually large windows, without sash of course, which are shaded by
+day and closed by night and in severe storms by a hinged awning of nipa,
+seen in the photographs. In spite of the warmth nearly all natives close
+the window shades tight when they sleep, so that, in spite of the
+numerous cracks, the ventilation must be very bad; this may partly
+account for the prevalence of tuberculosis on the islands.
+
+[Illustration: NATIVE GIRL CARRYING BASKET OF CLOTHES.]
+
+Around the better houses in such a barrio is usually seen a high fence
+generally made of closely set vertical saplings, driven into the ground
+and bound together with rattan at the top; this fence serves to keep
+the chickens in, and, at night, to keep prowling animals out.
+
+Many of the houses have a tiny store at the ground level in which a
+small stock of canned goods, native fruits, dried fish, native shoes
+etc. may be seen. One of the main department stores of Mariveles is
+shown in the accompanying photograph, with the very American sign at the
+side of the entrance.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHIEF STORE OF MARIVELES.]
+
+Like many native villages Mariveles has a large stone church, with red
+tile roof, bell tower, etc.; it is now in such bad repair as to be
+unsafe, so that a crude shed with thatched sides and corrugated iron
+roof has been built to take its place. No priest now lives in this
+barrio and the shed-like church did not have the appearance of being
+much used.
+
+The village school, on the other hand, gave every indication of
+activity. Although not housed in a very handsome building, a glance
+through the windows and door showed many students of various ages all
+apparently busy and orderly under the supervision of several neat and
+bright looking native women.
+
+On the same street with the school a link with the outside world was
+seen in the sign "Telegraph and Post Office." This office was in charge
+of a native who, unlike most of the residents of the barrio, spoke
+English. In these villages it is usually easy to find natives who speak
+Spanish, but it is frequently difficult to find one who understands
+English.
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD CHURCH.]
+
+The men of the village were mostly engaged, though not very strenuously,
+in the rice paddies or in fishing. The women looked after the
+housekeeping, washing, tending the stores, etc., and their position of
+respect and authority in the homes and in society was in marked contrast
+to that of other oriental and even of some European women.
+
+[Illustration: THE MARIVELES PUBLIC SCHOOL.]
+
+A tiny store across the street from where we lived was tended during
+most of the day and in the evenings by an attractive young native woman
+who seemed to be quite a belle. Every evening, at about dark, a dapper
+young native, in an American suit of white, always appeared and seated
+himself upon the bench in front of the store, where he could see and
+talk to his brunette lady love without interfering with her commercial
+duties, which were not heavy. Often several other suitors appeared and,
+while it was not possible to understand what was said, since
+the conversation was all in Tagalog, from the frequent laughter it was
+evident that the girl was as able to entertain several admirers at once
+as are some of her blond sisters across the sea. Her voice was softer
+and her laugh more attractive than that of many an American belle of
+high social standing. In fact the women of this island village were, as
+a class, of remarkable dignity and modesty, so that there was probably
+less to shock one's modesty here than at many a fashionable American
+watering place. Of course ignorance of their language made it impossible
+to understand all that was going on, but to judge by their actions and
+the tones of their voices it would seem that their family life is as
+peaceful and happy as that of the average American family. It is truly
+the "simple life" that they lead, and to us it seems a very narrow one;
+yet it has its advantages over the "strenuous life" that most of us are
+compelled to live. There was little or no drunkenness or quarreling
+among the men, whose chief vice seemed to be gambling.
+
+[Illustration: THE TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE.]
+
+This gambling instinct is gratified mainly by means of the cockpit. One
+of the most familiar sights of the islands is the native man with a
+game cock or just a plain rooster under his arm. They pet and fondle
+these birds as we do cats or lap-dogs, and on Sundays (alas!) they
+gather at the cockpits to match their favorites against each other. Many
+barrios have large covered pits seating hundreds of people. The pit of
+Mariveles, which happened to be in the yard next to ours, was simply a
+square of about twenty feet enclosed by a low bamboo fence, in the shade
+of a huge acacia tree. Around this square were gathered about one
+hundred men (probably all of the men of the barrio) and two or three
+women, and we shall hope that the few women who were there to witness so
+unpleasant a spectacle were looking after their husbands to see that
+they did not bet too heavily.
+
+[Illustration: NATIVE "BANCA" NEAR MARIVELES.]
+
+Inside the square were two or three officials, and two men holding the
+two contesting birds. A man at a table outside held the stakes and
+presumably kept track of the bettors, odds, etc. Instead of the weapons
+provided by nature each bird had securely fastened to his left leg,
+in place of the spur that had been cut off, a villainously sharp
+steel spur, slightly curved and about three inches long. A well
+directed thrust from this steel weapon may kill the victim almost
+instantly, and one victim was already hanging head-down to a near-by
+tree when I entered.
+
+[Illustration: A SCHOOLHOUSE IN ILOILO.]
+
+While the bets were being arranged each bird was held, in turn, to let
+the other peck him ferociously, probably with the idea of making them
+mad enough to fight. When the bets were all arranged the birds were
+placed on the ground facing each other, and with lowered heads and neck
+feathers erected they dashed together like tigers, jumping high over
+each other and endeavoring to stab one another with their artificial
+weapons. In the one fight witnessed (and one was enough to learn the
+ways of the cockpit) both birds were soon bleeding profusely and had
+lost their desire to fight, so that the crowd called out some word and
+the cocks were picked up and "sicked" on each other again; this was
+repeated until one bird had enough and retreated ignominiously to the
+farthest corner of the pit, amid the shouts of the men who had bet on
+the other cock. In many cases, it is said, the vanquished bird is killed
+outright before he has time to retreat.
+
+The sport, while rather exciting, is certainly demoralizing, especially
+with the betting that always accompanies it.
+
+Such is the life of these simple people. Of course among the less
+civilized and the savage tribes conditions are very different, and a
+white man would not dare enter so intimately into the life of a barrio;
+in fact in some regions it is very unsafe to go outside of the army
+posts without a proper guard.
+
+As to the character of the civilized Filipinos opinion seems to differ
+among the Americans of the Islands. That they are not yet capable of
+self-government seems to be almost universally believed by Americans who
+have lived among them; and that they are not energetic as a class is
+only what might be expected in such a climate. Some Americans have a
+rather high opinion of the moral character and general trustworthiness
+of the average native; others do not hold such a high opinion of him and
+consider him the inferior of the American negro, mentally, morally and
+physically. As students in the University of the Philippines it is said
+they compare favorably with students in American universities.
+
+Doubtless there is as much variation, mental and moral, among the
+natives of the Philippine Islands as among the inhabitants of an
+Anglo-Saxon country, so that one's opinions are apt to be influenced
+by the class of natives with which he chiefly comes in contact.
+
+
+
+
+II. A VISIT TO TAY TAY.
+
+
+The cutter _Busuanga_ of the Philippine Bureau of Navigation had been
+chartered to go to Tay Tay on the Island of Palawan, to bring back to
+Manila the party of naturalists of the Bureau of Science who had been
+studying the little-known fauna and flora of that far-away island, the
+most westerly of the Philippine group.
+
+[Illustration: VILLAGE OF TAY TAY FROM THE HARBOR.]
+
+After leaving the dock at Manila at sundown we steamed out of the bay,
+past the searchlights of Corregidor and the other forts which were
+sweeping entirely across the entrance to the bay in a way that would
+immediately expose any enemy that might attempt to slip by in the dark,
+and by nine o'clock we were headed in a south-westerly direction across
+the China Sea.
+
+The next day we passed through winding passages along the Calamaines
+group where every hour brought to view new islands of the greatest
+beauty and of every size and shape. Upon one of these islands is a leper
+colony which we visited and found most interesting.
+
+[Illustration: TWO PROMINENT HOUSES IN TAY TAY.]
+
+Early on the second morning we entered the harbor of the small but
+ancient village of Tay Tay (pronounced "tie tie" and spelled in various
+ways) on the eastern shore of Palawan. Not a white man lives in this
+inaccessible hamlet and it is seldom that one visits it, as there is no
+regular communication of any sort with the outside world.
+
+The village consists of a dozen or two native huts along the beach in a
+very pretty grove of coconut trees. Back of the village is a range of
+low mountains covered with tropical jungle. The main point of interest
+is a well constructed fort of stone, built on a small promontory that
+projects out into the bay. The walls of the fort are very massive and
+are surmounted at each of the four corners by a round watch tower. On
+its land side the fort is entered through a narrow gate that leads by a
+stone stairway to the top of the promontory. On various parts of the
+walls are carvings and inscriptions showing that the different bastions
+were built at different times.
+
+[Illustration: THE SPANISH FORT AT TAY TAY.]
+
+Within the fort and overlooking the walls is an old stone church whose
+roof has long since fallen in. Within the fort is also a large
+cement-lined, stone cistern to hold water in case of siege. The Spanish
+inscriptions on the walls show that the fort was begun about 1720,
+though the mission there was established about 1620. Lying about within
+the fort are a few large iron cannon that were doubtless used by the
+Spaniards in repulsing the attacks of the Moro pirates. It was for a
+refuge from these pirates that this old fort was built nearly two
+hundred years ago in this tiny, reef-protected harbor, on an island that
+even now is unknown to a large majority of American people although it
+is a part of our territory.
+
+On the shore, just back of the fort, is another stone church whose roof
+has also fallen in; and back of this church is a small thatched bell
+tower with two very good bells of harmonious tones hanging in it. How
+long these bells have been silent it is difficult to say, but no priest
+now remains to carry on the work begun nearly three hundred years ago by
+the brave padres from Spain, and not a Spaniard now lives in that almost
+forgotten village. But for the moss-covered and still massive gray walls
+of the fort and the crumbling ruins of the two churches one would never
+imagine that this tiny village of brown men had ever been inhabited by
+subjects of the kingdom of Spain.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH WITHIN THE FORT.]
+
+In passing out of the harbor of Tay Tay we visited a small volcanic
+island of curiously weathered and water-worn limestone. Except for a
+narrow beach the sides of this island are almost perpendicular, and the
+cliffs are honeycombed with dozens of water-worn caves. Many of these
+caves are of great beauty, resembling the interiors of stone churches;
+some extend far back into the dark interior of the island, others are
+lighted by openings at the top. Many of them are beautifully colored,
+and in an accessible region would doubtless be frequently visited by
+tourists, while in their isolated location it is possible that they had
+never before been visited by white men, unless in the old Spanish days.
+It is in these and in similar caves of this region that the natives
+obtain the edible birds' nests so highly prized by some, especially the
+Chinese. The natives are said to have claims on certain caves, and any
+one found stealing nests from another man's cave is supposedly dealt
+with as a thief.
+
+[Illustration: BELL-TOWER OF THE CHURCH OUTSIDE OF THE FORT.]
+
+These curious nests are built by swifts (swallows) against the walls of
+the dark caves much in the some way as is done by our common chimney
+swifts, except that instead of cementing a number of small twigs
+together by a kind of sticky secretion or saliva, the entire nest is
+made of the sticky substance which dries into a sort of gummy mass. This
+substance has but little taste, and why the wealthy Chinese should be
+willing to pay such enormous prices ($12 to $15 per pound) for it is
+hard to understand.
+
+It is said that the first nest the bird makes in the season brings the
+highest price because it is of pure material; this nest having been
+taken the bird builds another, but, having a diminished supply of the
+secretion, it introduces some foreign matter to help out, and this
+foreign matter, of course, makes the nest less valuable as food. A third
+nest may succeed the second, but it has still more foreign matter to
+still further diminish its value. That the collection of the nests is
+attended with considerable danger is evident from the vertical, jagged
+walls of rock that must be scaled, either from below or above, to obtain
+them.
+
+[Illustration: ISLAND NEAR TAY TAY WHERE EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS ARE FOUND.]
+
+To those of us who lead busy lives in the centers of what we call
+twentieth-century civilization, life in a place so isolated from the
+rest of the world as Tay Tay seems impossible. Yet the inhabitants of
+this barrio are quite contented and fairly comfortable. They live "the
+simple life" indeed. While their resources are exceedingly limited their
+needs and desires are correspondingly few. They never suffer from cold
+and probably not often from heat or hunger: and they are not cursed with
+the ambitions that make so many of us dissatisfied with our lives.
+
+
+
+
+III. THE LEPER COLONY OF CULION.
+
+
+It was early Sunday morning when the "Busuanga" dropped anchor in the
+harbor of Culion Island, one of the Calamaines group of the Philippines,
+and two or three of us were fortunate enough to be invited to land, for
+an hour or so, to visit the leper colony that is said to be the largest
+in the world.
+
+We were met at the tiny dock by the physician-in-charge, Dr. Clements,
+and by him escorted about the colony. This physician, who has spent long
+years in these eastern lands, gives the immediate impression of a man of
+quiet force, and the work he is doing in this seldom-visited island is
+as fine a piece of missionary work, though carried on by the government,
+as can probably be found anywhere.
+
+Including the dock a few acres of the island are fenced off, and into
+this enclosure the lepers are forbidden to enter; otherwise they have
+the run of the island, but are not allowed boats for fear they would be
+used as a means of escape.
+
+Within the non-leprous enclosure are located the residences for the
+doctors and other officials; the living quarters, kitchens etc. (all of
+concrete) for the non-leprous laborers; and various shops and other such
+buildings.
+
+At the "dead line" fence between this and the leprous part of the island
+a Chinaman has a small store where the lepers can buy various articles
+such as may be seen in a small country store. The articles are in plain
+sight, but the leper is not allowed to touch anything until he has
+decided to take it; he then drops his money into a sterilizing solution
+and gets his purchase. A more modern store is being arranged by the
+government that will soon displace the _Chino_.
+
+Passing this minute store we entered the gate of the "forbidden city,"
+and, though there is no danger from merely breathing the same air with
+lepers, it gave us a rather strange sensation to be surrounded by
+thirty-four hundred poor wretches who in Biblical times would have been
+compelled to cry "Unclean! unclean!" We, of course, did not touch
+anything within the colony, though the doctors do not hesitate to touch
+even the lepers themselves.
+
+The colony proper is located on a small promontory looking eastward to
+the harbor and the Sulu Sea. At the end of this promontory is an old
+Spanish fort of stone with its enclosed church. Most of the Christian
+lepers are Roman Catholics, though there is a small Protestant church in
+the colony, in charge of a leprous native minister.
+
+[Illustration: DOCTORS' RESIDENCES AND OTHER BUILDINGS OUTSIDE OF THE
+COLONY FENCE.]
+
+The lepers are brought from the various islands of the Philippines to
+this colony so fast that it is with great difficulty that they can be
+accommodated; but all are made comfortable, in fact much more
+comfortable, in most cases, than they would ever have been at home.
+Except for homesickness, which cannot, of course, be avoided, they are
+quite happy, or as happy as any hopelessly sick people can be away from
+home and friends.
+
+Fine concrete dormitories are supplied, but many prefer to build their
+own native houses of nipa palm and bamboo. A certain amount of help is
+given the lepers in building these houses on condition that they first
+obtain a permit and build in the proper place in relation to the streets
+that have been laid out.
+
+Besides the dormitories there are several concrete kitchen buildings
+where the lepers can prepare their food in comfort.
+
+A plentiful supply of pure water is distributed by pipes to various
+convenient parts of the colony, and several concrete bath and wash
+houses are conveniently located. A concrete sewage system leads all
+sewage to the sea.
+
+[Illustration: CONCRETE DORMITORY AND NATIVE SHACKS.]
+
+In this tropical climate it is, of course, unnecessary to provide any
+means of heating the buildings. At the time of our visit a large
+amusement pavilion was nearly completed where moving pictures and other
+forms of entertainment will help pass the time for these poor wretches
+who have nothing to look forward to but a lingering death from a
+loathsome disease.
+
+A large number of the patients who are in the incipient stages showed,
+to the ordinary observer, no effects of the disease. There were others
+who at first glance seemed perfectly normal, but on closer scrutiny
+revealed the absence of one or more toes or fingers. Others had horribly
+swollen ears: some had no nose left and were distressing objects; but
+it was not until we visited the various wards of the hospital that we
+saw leprosy in all of its horror. Here were dozens of cases so far
+advanced that they were no longer able to walk; they were lying on their
+cots waiting for death to come to their release. Some were so emaciated
+as to look almost like animated skeletons. Others, except for and
+sometimes in spite of their bandages, looked like horrid, partially
+decomposed cadavers. It was a sight to make one shudder and devoutly
+hope that a cure for this awful disease may soon be discovered. These
+extreme cases are cared for carefully and their last hours are made as
+comfortable as possible.
+
+[Illustration: CONCRETE KITCHEN AND LAVATORY BUILDINGS AND NATIVE
+RESIDENCES.]
+
+As we came, out three Catholic sisters entered the women's ward to do
+what they could for the patients there.
+
+Shortly before leaving the colony we were led to a small concrete
+structure (near the furnace where all combustible waste is burned), and
+as the door was opened we saw before us on a concrete slab four bodies
+so wasted and shrivelled that they seemed scarcely human. These were
+those who had at last been cured in the only way that this dread
+disease admits of cure. About forty per month are released by death, and
+those we saw were the last crop of the here _merciful_ not "dread
+reaper."
+
+At the back of the colony we met four lepers of incipient stages
+carrying a long box on their shoulders. Just as they came abreast of us
+they set it down, to rest themselves, and we saw that in the box was
+another "cured" leper. He was being carried to the cemetery not only
+"unhonored and unsung" but also "unwept": not a single friend nor
+relative followed his wasted body to its final resting place. After this
+pitiful spectacle, added to the horrors of the hospital wards, we were
+not sorry to turn our steps back toward the boat. As we passed through
+the fence at the "dead line," going away from the colony, we were
+compelled to wade through a shallow box of water containing a small
+percentage of carbolic acid which disinfected the soles of our shoes,
+the only things about us that had come in actual contact with the leper
+colony. In this way all visitors when they leave the colony are
+compelled, not to "shake its dust from their feet" but to wash its germs
+from their soles.
+
+As an antidote for dissatisfaction with one's lot in life, or as an
+object lesson for the pessimists who claim there is no unselfishness in
+the world, or as an illustration of the value of the medical missionary,
+this little island, lying "somewhere east of Suez" between the Sulu and
+the China Seas, is not easily surpassed.
+
+
+
+
+IV. FROM ZAMBOANGA TO SINGAPORE.
+
+
+When the North German Lloyd steamer "Sandakan" left the dock at
+Zamboanga she had in the first cabin only three passengers, a Russian of
+uncertain occupation, a young lieutenant of the Philippine constabulary,
+and myself. We had, therefore, the pick of the deck staterooms, which is
+worth while when traveling within ten degrees of the equator in
+mid-summer.
+
+Zamboanga is the chief city of the island of Mindanao and is the capital
+of the turbulent Moro province, which includes the well-known island of
+Sulu with its once-famous sultan.
+
+After a night's run we tied up at the dock of Jolo, the chief town of
+the island of Sulu. Here my two companions left the ship, so that until
+we reached the next port, Sandakan, I was the only cabin passenger, and
+when the ship's officers were prevented by their duties from appearing
+at the table I had the undivided attention of the chief steward, two
+cooks, and three waiters. This line of vessels being primarily for
+freight the "Sandakan" has accommodations for less than twenty
+first-cabin passengers, and it probably seldom has anything like a full
+list on this out-of-the-way run from "Zambo" to Singapore. So far as its
+accommodations go, however, they are excellent, and a pleasanter trip of
+a week or ten days would be hard to find, in spite of the tropical heat.
+
+While the first cabin list was so small, the third class accommodations
+seemed taxed to their utmost, and the conglomeration of orientals was an
+unending source of amusement. They slept all over their deck and
+appeared happy and comfortable in spite of the fact that they seemed
+never to remove their clothes nor to bathe; it is probable that to most
+of them ten days without such luxuries was not a noticeable deprivation.
+
+Leaving Jolo, a picturesque walled city with a reputation for dangerous
+Moros (one is not supposed to go outside the walls without an armed
+guard, and many men carry a "45" at their hip at all times), we sailed
+southwest through the countless islands of the Sulu Archipelago, and
+after a run of about twenty hours passed the high red cliff at the
+entrance to the harbor of Sandakan, the capital of British North Borneo,
+and were soon alongside the dock.
+
+Sandakan is a rather pretty little town of two or three thousand
+inhabitants, including about fifty white people. It extends along the
+shore for about a mile and in the center has the athletic or recreation
+field, that is found in all these little towns, as well as the post
+office and other government buildings. In this central part of the town
+are also the Chinese stores, usually dirty, ill-smelling and
+unattractive; but there are no others. In all this region the Chinese
+seem to have a complete monopoly of the commercial business.
+
+[Illustration: THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN.]
+
+A hundred yards or more from the shore the hills rise steeply from
+sea-level to a few hundred feet, and over these hills are scattered the
+attractive bungalows of the white residents. There is also here a
+handsome stone church, overlooking the bay, with a school for native
+boys in connection with it. The hills farther from the town are heavily
+wooded, and the timber is being sawed at mills along the shore road. On
+the streets are seen men of several nationalities, Chinese, Malays,
+Moros, East Indians, and occasionally a Caucasian in his customary white
+suit and pith helmet; but of all these the most dignified and stately is
+the Indian policeman. He is tall and slender, with frequently a fine
+black beard; his head is covered with the usual white turban, set off
+with a touch of red. His gray spiral puttees generally do not quite
+reach the bottom of his khaki trousers, thus leaving his knees bare.
+Hanging from his belt is his club, similar to those carried by American
+policemen, and jangling in one hand is usually a pair of steel
+handcuffs. In passing white men he often raises his hand in a formal
+military salute that would be worthy of a major general. Altogether he
+is a most impressive personage and, with such examples constantly before
+them, it would seem incredible that the citizens should ever cause
+a-disturbance. An interesting contrast was seen in a group of men,
+sitting idly in the shade and watching eight little Chinese women
+stagger by with a huge tree trunk that would seem too heavy for an equal
+number of strong men to carry: but this is "East of Suez, where the best
+is like the worst," whatever Kipling meant by that.
+
+[Illustration: SANDAKAN FROM THE HILL.
+
+The "Sandakan" at the Dock.]
+
+At Sandakan the first cabin passenger list was increased 100 per cent by
+the advent of a young Danish rubber man--not a man made of young
+Danish rubber, but a young Dane from Singapore who had been inspecting
+rubber plantations, of which there are many on Borneo.
+
+[Illustration: BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN.]
+
+Leaving the capital city at sunset we arrived at Kudat, our next
+stopping place, early the next morning. With a very similar location
+this is a much smaller town than the preceding, consisting of four or
+five hundred people including half a dozen Caucasians. In spite of its
+small size it has a small garrison of native soldiers and the inevitable
+recreation ground. Besides this there is here a race track at which a
+meet was about to be held. Attracted probably by the races was the
+ubiquitous moving picture show, set up in a tent near the race track. It
+is impossible to escape the "movies." I attended a moving picture
+exhibition given in the cockpit of a small Philippine village about
+fifty miles out from Manila, and here was another in a still smaller
+village on the Island of Borneo, hundreds of miles from _anywhere_. In
+the same way it is impossible to escape the voice of the phonograph. On
+several occasions I have heard them in tiny nipa shacks in small
+Philippine villages, and in a Moro shack in Kudat, built on poles above
+the water, I heard the sound of what seemed a very good phonograph of
+some sort.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE WOMEN CARRYING LOG, SANDAKAN.]
+
+In the northeast corner of Borneo is its highest mountain, Kini or Kina
+Balu, the Chinese Widow, supposedly so named because of the fancied
+resemblance of its jagged top to the upturned face of a woman. It is
+really a very impressive peak and, being seen from the sea, it looks its
+full height of nearly fourteen thousand feet; being exactly under the
+sixth parallel it is, of course, too close to the equator to be
+snow-capped. Its position near the coast enabled us to enjoy it as we
+approached the island from the northeast and as we passed around and
+down the west coast, so that it was visible for nearly three days. Other
+mountain peaks of five or six thousand feet are visible along the west
+coast but they appear insignificant in comparison with old Kini Balu.
+
+[Illustration: CHINO CARRIER, SANDAKAN.]
+
+[Illustration: RACE-COURSE AT KUDAT.
+
+Movie tent in the left background.]
+
+Leaving Kudat in the evening we arrived at Jesselton the following
+morning. This is a town of about the same size and character of location
+as Kudat, but as the northern terminus of the only railroad on the
+island it seems much more of a metropolis. It has a clock-tower, too,
+the pride of every Jesseltonian heart, located in plain view of
+the railroad station so that there is no excuse for the trains leaving
+Jesselton more than two or three hours late. There is here again the
+recreation field and market house, and, of course, the usual Chinese
+stores and Indian policemen; besides this it is the home town of the
+Governor (an Englishman, of course) of British North Borneo. But the
+railroad is the chief feature of Jesselton. To be sure it is only a
+narrow gauge, but it carries people, if they are not in too big a hurry,
+and freight. The engines are of English type but the cars
+are--original, surely. There are first and third class passenger
+coaches, no second class, to say nothing of a baggage "van." The third
+class cars have simply a rough wooden bench along each side and seat
+about twenty people. The first class cars are of two types: the first is
+like the third class with the addition of cushions to the seats and
+curtains to the windows; the second kind is a sort of Pullman car; it is
+of the same size, but instead of the benches it has about half a dozen
+wicker chairs that may be moved about at will.
+
+[Illustration: MORO SHACKS AT KUDAT.
+
+In one of these a phonograph was heard.]
+
+Having a few hours to spare I decided to take a ride into the country. I
+had already climbed one of the hills where I could get a view inland to
+Kini Balu, over miles of jungle where no white man has ever been. But I
+wanted to see a little of this country, from the car-window at least. So
+I entered the station and interviewed the station master, a portly
+official of great dignity. He told me, in fair English, that the train
+on the "main line" had left for that day but that I could take a "local"
+out into the country for about three miles. This was better than
+nothing, so I climbed (and climb is the proper word) aboard the first
+class car of the local that was soon to start. I was the only
+first-class passenger and I felt like a railroad president in his
+private car. Soon after starting the conductor entered. He was a tall
+and, of course, dignified East Indian in turban and khaki uniform. He
+had the punch without which no conductor would be complete, and,
+suspended from a strap over his shoulder, was a huge canvas bag, like a
+mail bag, the purpose of which puzzled me. The fare, he told me, was
+fifteen cents to the end of the line; on giving him a twenty-cent piece
+I found the purpose of the canvas bag; it was his money bag, and he
+carefully fished from its depths my five cents change. The Borneo
+pennies are about as big as cart wheels so this bag was not so out of
+proportion as it might seem. In exchange for my fare he gave me a ticket
+marked "fifteen cents," which he gravely punched. I did not know what
+the ticket was for as I thought there would hardly be a change of
+conductors in a run of three miles, but I kept it and in about five
+minutes the dignified conductor returned and gravely took up the ticket
+again; this impressive performance was repeated on the return trip.
+
+[Illustration: HOSPITAL ON THE HILL, KUDAT.]
+
+After leaving the crowded(?) streets of the city our speed rapidly
+increased until we were traveling at a rate of not less than ten miles
+an hour, which was fast enough considering there were no airbrakes on
+the train of three cars, and we had to be ready to stop at any moment
+when somebody might want to get on or off. Doubtless the "flyers" on the
+main line of the British North Borneo State Railroad run at even greater
+speeds than this. The dignity of the officials of this miniature
+railroad was most interesting, and was almost equal to that of a negro
+porter on the Empire State Express.
+
+[Illustration: CLUB HOUSE AT JESSELTON.]
+
+Leaving this railroad center early the next morning we arrived, before
+dark, at our last stop in Borneo, Labuan. We had added 50 per cent to
+our cabin passenger list at Jesselton by taking aboard a young English
+engineer from South Africa.
+
+[Illustration: PASSENGER TRAIN ON THE B. N. B. S. R. R. AT JESSELTON.]
+
+The Island of Labuan upon which the town of the same name is situated
+lies just off the northwest coast of Borneo. It came under the
+protectorate of Great Britain in 1846 and, though small, has a more
+up-to-date appearance than any of the other towns visited. The stores
+are mainly of concrete with red tile or red-painted corrugated iron
+roofs, which, among the tall coconut palms, are very attractive in
+appearance. There is one main street, parallel to the beach line, that
+is extended as a modern, oiled road for some miles into the country.
+Along this road are the very attractive official buildings, each with
+its sign in front; also the recreation field and the residences of the
+few white inhabitants. All of the streets are clean and have deep cement
+gutters on the sides that lead to the sea or to the various lagoons that
+extend through the town. Water pipes also extend along the streets with
+openings at convenient intervals. Extensive coal mines are located near
+the town, but for some reason they were not profitable and the cars and
+docks for handling coal are now nearly all idle. On one of the lagoons
+is a rather artistic Chinese temple of concrete, well built and in good
+repair.
+
+On the main street is a school, and, seeing a crowd of natives at the
+door, I joined the throng to see what was going on inside. It proved to
+be the singing hour, and about fifty little Chinese boys, from six to
+ten years of age, all in neat khaki uniforms, were singing at the tops
+of their voices, led by a very active Chinese man. The little fellows
+seemed to enjoy the singing thoroughly, and, after hearing several
+songs, all in Chinese, of course, to strange and unusual tunes, I was
+surprised to recognize one of the tunes--it was "John Brown's body
+lies amoulding in the grave" though what the words were I was unable to
+tell since, like the other songs, they were in Chinese.
+
+[Illustration: BORNEAN BOAT AT JESSELTON.]
+
+At Labuan the last of our cabin passengers came aboard, two Englishmen,
+one a mining engineer, the other a government man. Since no more stops
+were to be made in Borneo, the Sandakan headed in a southwest direction
+straight for Singapore, and in exactly three days we entered that busy
+harbor and dropped anchor among the more than two dozen other ocean
+liners from all parts of the world.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN STREET AT LABUAN.]
+
+[Illustration: POST OFFICE AND RECREATION GROUND AT LABUAN.]
+
+Singapore is one of the busiest seaports in the world and the hundreds
+of vessels of all sizes and types against the background of handsome
+white and cream-colored buildings make a very interesting and impressive
+sight.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE TEMPLE AT LABUAN.]
+
+Thus ended a most interesting voyage of nine days, through a region
+seldom visited by any but a few Englishmen who are interested in some
+way in the development of that, as yet, little developed part of the
+world. Although it is a trip that is easily arranged by visitors to the
+Philippines it is one that is seldom taken by the tourist.
+
+
+
+
+V. SINGAPORE, THE MELTING POT OF THE EAST.
+
+
+In Singapore, it is said, can be seen more races of men than at any
+other one spot in the world, so that it has been well named "The Melting
+Pot of the East." It is also sometimes spoken of as "The Gateway of the
+East," since all vessels bound for ports in the Far East call there.
+
+[Illustration: HONGKONG BANK AND PUBLIC SQUARE.]
+
+It is said, perhaps without sufficient historical evidence, that the
+town was first settled by Malays in 1360 A. D.; but as a port of any
+importance its history begins in 1819 when it was ceded by Jahore to
+Great Britain through the instrumentality of Sir Stamford Raffles, whose
+name is perpetuated in connection with many of the local institutions.
+
+[Illustration: A CHINESE RESIDENCE STREET.]
+
+[Illustration: A SUBURBAN RESIDENCE.]
+
+In the early days, in fact until the introduction of steamships, there
+was much annoyance and danger from pirates at sea and robbers on land,
+but that of course is now long past and one is as safe here as in any
+other part of the world.
+
+The present-day Singapore is a thriving town of more than 250,000
+inhabitants, and is one of the busiest harbors in the world; more than
+three dozen sea-going steamships may sometimes be seen in the harbor at
+the same time, and the number of rowboats and other small craft is
+legion.
+
+[Illustration: VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL AND SINGAPORE CRICKET CLUB.]
+
+On landing one is fairly overwhelmed by the _rickisha_ men, for the
+_jinrikisha_, the two-wheeled Japanese cart, is _the_ method of travel
+in Singapore, though one may hire a pony wagon (_ghari_), or even an
+automobile at very reasonable rates. As to the electric cars, or
+"trams," the less said the better; they would disgrace a city of
+one-tenth the size of Singapore.
+
+The streets are excellent and are nearly all level, so that the
+rickishas, usually pulled by Chinese, make good time. Many residents own
+their own rickisha and hire the man by the month; more well-to-do
+people, and there are many wealthy people both native and foreign in
+Singapore, have their own teams and automobiles.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCOTCH KIRK.]
+
+While there are regular rickisha stands in different parts of town,
+especially near the hotels and other public places, there are few
+streets so unfrequented that one cannot "pick up" a rickisha at a
+moment's notice. Umbrellas are scarcely needed, for in case of a shower
+one may call a rickisha to the curb and be whisked to his destination
+dryshod. In fact there is very little walking done in Singapore,
+especially by Europeans; it is so easy to get into the ever-present and
+alluring rickisha. Moreover, it is very hot in the sun, for Singapore is
+only a little more than one degree from the equator. There is a regular
+scale of prices for public vehicles, but the newcomer is always
+"spotted" and is charged double or treble the regular fare until he
+learns better than to heed the pathetic or indignant protests of the
+rickisha men.
+
+[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. BUILDING. Methodist Church in left
+background.]
+
+[Illustration: ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE.]
+
+Like other cities in the East Singapore is a mixture of beauty and
+squalor. In the region of the banks, steamship offices, and wholesale
+houses there are many handsome buildings: but in the Chinese districts
+that make up the greater part of the business section, for the Chinese
+merchants far outnumber all others, there are narrow crowded streets,
+small houses, and large and variagated smells. There is also a
+notorious and wide-open red-light district that is a disgrace to a
+modern and supposedly civilized town.
+
+While the saloon is not particularly in evidence the indulgence in
+_stengahs_ (Malay for _half_), or whiskey and sodas, is well-nigh
+universal among the European population, not always excluding the women
+and clergy. Since alcohol is said to be particularly dangerous in the
+tropics it would be interesting to know the total effect of this general
+indulgence. It is generally conceded that after a few years of tropical
+life Europeans must go home to recuperate; it would be interesting to
+know if the use of strong alcoholics bears any relation to the frequency
+of these necessary trips to temperate regions.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+Certainly life seems easy and pleasant in Singapore, especially among
+government officials. About eight or nine o'clock in the morning a
+stream of rickishas, carriages and automobiles carries the men down town
+from their pleasant and often very handsome homes uptown or in the
+suburbs. Many of the finest of these homes are owned by wealthy Chinese
+merchants. About five in the afternoon the stream sets in the other
+direction, carrying those whose day's work is over back to their cool
+villas or to some recreation ground where tennis, cricket, golf, or
+football may be enjoyed for an hour or two before dark. Dinner is
+usually between seven and eight and is over in time for evening
+entertainments which begin late. Although too far from the beaten tracks
+frequently to enjoy first-class dramatic talent, there are the
+ubiquitous "movies," and for the transient visitor the Malay and Chinese
+theaters are of great interest.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF A CHINESE FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+An excellent race course provides entertainment of that sort at frequent
+intervals. For the more serious-minded the extensive Raffles Museum and
+Library is centrally and beautifully located.
+
+The beautiful Anglican Cathedral is the largest church in the city, and
+many other denominations possess smaller but attractive churches.
+
+The central building of all is the beautiful Victoria Memorial Hall with
+its tall clock tower and chimes. In front of this white building is the
+black statue of an elephant, presented to the city by the king of Siam
+to commemorate the first visit ever paid to a foreign city by a Siamese
+monarch. In the neighborhood of the Cathedral and Memorial Hall are the
+hotels, which are good in most respects but whose charges to transient
+guests are usually exorbitant: here is also the main recreation field
+where cricket, tennis and football are played every afternoon by both
+natives and Europeans.
+
+[Illustration: A HINDU TEMPLE.
+
+Rickishas passing.]
+
+While these churches, residences and parks (including the well-known
+botanical gardens) are interesting, it is the oriental element that has
+the greatest charm for those from other lands. A rickisha ride through
+the teeming streets of the Chinese or Malay quarters, especially at
+night, is most interesting. If taken during the day a Chinese funeral
+procession with its banners, bands and tom-toms may be met; in fact the
+death-rate among the squalid Chinese residents is so high that funerals
+are of very frequent occurrence.
+
+[Illustration: THE MOSQUE AT JAHORE.]
+
+At the docks and other gathering places one is fascinated by the
+constantly shifting sea of strange faces and costumes; sometimes the
+lack of costume is more noticeable than the costume, as among the
+coolies or laborers from India or Arabia. Chinese, Japanese, various
+races of Malays and East Indians, jostle elbows with Englishmen,
+Americans and every other race under the sun except perhaps, the
+American Indian. It is surely a motley throng and the tower of Babel
+was nowhere compared to this conglomeration of tongues.
+
+The oriental is a rather mild individual as a rule and wrangling and
+fighting is probably less common than among occidental communities.
+
+Several interesting temples are to be seen in Singapore; their quaint
+architecture is always interesting to the occidental tourist, and the
+hideous images to be seen within will repay the trouble of removing
+one's shoes, which must be done before admittance is granted.
+
+[Illustration: CANAL AND MARKET PLACE AT JAHORE.]
+
+When the sights of the city have been exhausted a visit to Jahore on the
+mainland (Singapore is on a small island) of the Malay Peninsula will be
+interesting. Here is the summer palace of H. H. the Sultan of Jahore;
+also a large and handsome mosque. Here is also a wide-open gambling
+establishment where hundreds of Chinese may be seen playing "fantan."
+
+On the return from Jahore, if interested in such things, a visit to a
+rubber estate may be made, and the whole process in the manufacture of
+rubber may be seen in a few hours; it is a strange and fascinating
+process and is, perhaps, the most important industry of the Federated
+Malay States.
+
+It is interesting to compare Singapore which has been a British colony
+for nearly a century with Manila, a city of about the same size, that
+has been under American rule for less than two decades. The results that
+have been accomplished in the latter place along the lines of
+sanitation, education, and other civilizing influences should make an
+American proud of his native land.
+
+
+
+
+VI. HOW RUBBER IS MADE.
+
+
+One of the principal products of the Malay Peninsula is rubber. Like
+most people who have never happened to investigate the matter my ideas
+as to the way in which an automobile tire is extracted from a tree were
+very hazy; so, with another American, who had charge of a mission
+school in Singapore, I boarded the Jahore express on the F. M. S. R. R.
+(F. M. S. meaning Federated Malay States) and after a run of half an
+hour arrived at the Bukit Timar rubber estate some ten miles northwest
+of Singapore.
+
+The Bukit Timar is an up-to-date plantation of more than one hundred
+thousand trees, and here we saw the whole process, from tree to sheet
+rubber, as shipped to all parts of the world and sold by the pound.
+Rubber trees grow to a considerable size, but this being a young
+plantation most of the trees were not over six or eight inches in
+diameter. In the middle of the estate was a very attractive bungalow
+where lived the manager and his wife, a young English couple, and the
+former very courteously showed us about his place and explained the
+different processes.
+
+"Tapping" begins at daybreak, and all the juice or _latex_ is collected
+before noon. Dozens of native and Chinese men and boys are employed in
+this process, some of the latter being so small that they can scarcely
+carry the two buckets of latex on the bamboo stick over the shoulder.
+
+In tapping, a very thin and narrow piece of bark is gouged off, just
+deep enough to make the tree bleed, but not deep enough to kill it; so
+that by the time the bark on one side of the tree has been cut away that
+on the opposite side has had time to regenerate. The process is thus a
+perpetual one and the tree lasts indefinitely.
+
+The exact method of tapping varies, but usually it is begun as two
+slanting grooves that converge to form a V. The latex oozes from the
+freshly cut bark, runs down the converging grooves to their point of
+union, and is caught in a small glass cup or other vessel suspended
+under a tiny spout at the apex of the V. The method of tapping shown in
+the photograph is different from this somewhat, though the principle is
+the same. The latex that oozes from the grooves is a pure white, sticky
+fluid resembling milk; about a tablespoonful is obtained each day from
+each tree.
+
+By the time each man has tapped or gouged all of the trees assigned to
+him (perhaps two or three hundred) the first-tapped trees have bled all
+they will for that day, so that collecting is begun at once. In each cup
+is a little water to prevent the latex from coagulating and sticking to
+the bottom.
+
+[Illustration: HOME OF THE MANAGER OF THE BUKIT TIMAR RUBBER ESTATE
+NEAR SINGAPORE.]
+
+The first V is cut several feet from the ground, and the amount that is
+gouged from each side of the V each day is so very thin that it will be
+months before the apex of the V reaches the ground, by which time the
+regeneration of the first cuts will be well under way.
+
+After the flow of latex has ceased for the day a narrow strip hardens
+along each groove, like gum on a cherry tree. These little strips of
+rubber, with bits of adherent bark, as well as any drops that may have
+fallen to the ground, are collected in bags and carried to the factory
+to be made into sheets of cheap grades of commercial rubber.
+
+[Illustration: A YOUNG RUBBER TREE SHOWING ONE METHOD OF TAPPING.
+
+    The white lines are the latex running down the grooves into the
+    glass cup at the bottom. Above the two slanting lines is seen
+    the scarred tissue where the bark has been gouged away. When the
+    lower end of the lower line reaches the ground the tree will be
+    tapped on the opposite side. The amount of latex in the cup
+    seems greater than it really is because of the water upon which
+    it floats. The size of the tree may be judged from the kodak
+    case at its foot.]
+
+After the trees have been tapped the latex is collected in carefully
+cleaned tin buckets, brought to the factory and strained into huge
+earthenware tubs. It is then put into enamelware pans about twelve by
+thirty-six inches in size and three inches deep, and a very weak acid
+(usually acetic) is stirred into it. In about half an hour the acid
+coagulates the latex (like rennet in making junket from milk) into a
+soft, pure white mass, about two inches thick and of the area of the
+pan. This soft mass of rubber is carefully floated out of the pan onto a
+table, where it is rolled on both sides for a few minutes with a wooden
+rolling-pin to squeeze out the excess of water and acid. It is then
+carefully lifted into a large vessel of pure water to harden until the
+next day.
+
+[Illustration: THREE LATEX GATHERERS.
+
+    The boy in the middle of the group has the canvass bag over his
+    shoulder in which he carries the scraps of dried rubber from the
+    grooves on the trees.]
+
+The next day it is run several times through smooth steel rollers under
+dropping water, where it is flattened out into sheets of about an inch
+or less in thickness and of a proportionately greater area. It is next
+passed through roughened steel rollers that mark it off into ridges and
+depressions like a waffle.
+
+These sheets, now tough and elastic, are hung in a closed chamber and
+smoked until they reach a proper shade of brown, when they are ready for
+shipment. The smoking process, which is to preserve the rubber, often
+takes many days, though at the time of our visit the manager of the
+Bukit Timar estate was experimenting with a method that would complete
+the smoking in a few hours.
+
+The production of rubber in the Malay Peninsula is of rather recent date
+and it has increased by leaps and bounds. In the various "booms" that
+have taken place many fortunes have been made--as witnessed by the
+palatial residences about Singapore--but many have also been lost,
+though the witnesses to these are not so evident.
+
+[Illustration: THE TRAVELER PALM, AN UNUSUAL TYPE OFTEN SEEN IN THE FAR
+EAST SINGAPORE AND ELSEWHERE.]
+
+Whether the increased demands for rubber will justify the thousands of
+young trees that are still being planted, not only on the Malay
+Peninsula but on Borneo and other islands of the Far East, remains to be
+seen; but, judging from the opinions of several rubber experts of
+Singapore, this is quite doubtful.
+
+
+
+
+VII. TWO CHINESE CITIES.
+
+
+After a voyage (unusually calm for the China Sea) of four days from
+Singapore, the S. S. "Buelow" slowly steamed among the islands at
+the entrance and came to anchor just after sunset in the beautiful
+harbor of Hongkong. There is really no _city_ of Hongkong, though
+letters so directed will reach their destination, and even the residents
+of the city in whose harbor we were anchored would have spoken of living
+in Hongkong. The name "Hongkong" belongs to the small island, ten miles
+long by three wide, that lies about a mile from the mainland of China.
+Along the north or land side of this island lies the city of Victoria,
+with a population of 350,000, commonly known by the name of the entire
+island, Hongkong.
+
+Practically the whole island is occupied by mountains of a maximum
+height of about 1800 feet, so that the town has only a narrow strip of
+level ground along the beach and extends in scattered fashion to the
+very top of the ridge.
+
+As we came to anchor the twinkling lights of the streets and houses were
+just beginning to appear, and in a little while, when the short tropical
+twilight had changed to darkness, the shore line was a mass of lights
+which gradually became more scattered toward the hill-tops, where often
+a single light marked the location of some isolated residence. Across
+the harbor another smaller group of lights showed the position of
+Kowloon, a small seaport on the mainland and the southern terminus of
+the Kowloon and Canton Railroad. On the water between the two towns,
+really one great harbor, were thousands of lights, indicating the
+position of invisible steamships, junks, tugs, launches and sampans.
+Most of these lights were stationary, showing that the vessels to which
+they belonged were at anchor, but some of them were in motion, and
+hardly had we come slowly to a standstill and dropped anchor before we
+were besieged by a swarm of launches and sampans all clamoring for
+passengers to take ashore.
+
+As is customary in the East, steamers usually anchor in the harbor at
+Hongkong at some distance from shore, so that the larger hotels, as well
+as Cook's Agency, have private launches to take passengers ashore. Since
+it was rather late to see anything of the town most of the cabin
+passengers preferred to remain on board for the night, and the view of
+the lights of the harbor and town as seen from the ship was well worth
+enjoying for one evening.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW ON "THE PEAK"; GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE IN THE LEFT
+BACKGROUND.]
+
+The next morning we were able to see the meaning of the lights of the
+night before. The business part of the town, with its crowded Chinese
+sections and its fine municipal and office buildings, lies as a narrow
+strip along the shore, while struggling up the mountain side are the
+residences, churches, schools, etc. of the English and wealthy Chinese
+residents. On this mountain side is also a most beautiful and
+interesting botanical garden. On the highest point of "The Peak," as the
+main peak of the range is called, is a weather observatory and signal
+station, and from this point one of the most beautiful views in the
+world may be obtained; to the south, the open China Sea, with numberless
+green islands extending almost to the horizon; to the north, the
+mainland of China, fringed with low mountains; between the mainland and
+the island the long, narrow strait forming the harbors of Victoria and
+Kowloon; at the foot of the mountain the densely crowded business
+streets; and extending up the almost precipitous northern slopes of the
+mountain the beautiful, often palatial homes of the wealthy residents.
+Winding along the mountain sides a number of fine roads and paths give
+access to these homes, but to reach the higher levels, especially, there
+may be seen the cable tramway, going so straight up the side of the
+mountain that it is almost alarming to look forward or back from the
+open cars. The homes nearer the foot of the mountain are usually reached
+by means of sedan chairs carried by two, three or even four coolies,
+while in the level business section the usual means of travel are the
+electric cars and the ever-ready rickishas. Horses are practically
+unknown except for racing purposes; carts are pulled by Chinese coolies
+instead of by horses, and merchandise is carried by coolies in baskets
+or bales on the shoulders. It is an interesting though unpleasant sight
+to see strings of Chinese men and women toiling up the steep sides of
+the mountain, carrying stones, cement, window frames, timbers, and all
+other material used in building the palaces in which the wealthy people
+live. For a day of this back-breaking labor they are paid about what one
+of their rich employers would give for one of his best cigars. Every
+stick, stone and nail in all of these houses has been carried up all
+these hundreds of feet on the backs of men and women, chiefly the
+latter.
+
+[Illustration: CHINESE JUNKS IN THE HARBOR OF CANTON.]
+
+In a beautiful little level valley between the bases of two of the
+mountains is the play ground of Hongkong, known as "Happy Valley"; here
+are tennis courts, a golf course, etc. overlooked on either side, rather
+incongruously, by a Chinese and a Christian burial ground.
+
+Having visited the various points of interest about Hongkong, which is
+really a part of the British Empire (ceded by the Chinese in 1841)
+though a vast majority of its residents are Chinese, I decided to have a
+look at a real Chinese city, Canton, located about ninety miles up the
+Canton River. As Canton happened to be in the throes of a revolution at
+that time, people were flocking by the thousands from there to Hongkong.
+Cook's Agency was warning people to keep away, and Hongkong papers had
+as headlines "Serious Outlook in Canton"; but I did not expect ever to
+have another chance to visit this typical Chinese city, so I boarded one
+of the boats of the French line that left Hongkong late in the evening
+for the run up the river. I learned later that one of these boats had
+been "shot up" a few days before by the revolutionists, and that a
+number of the passengers had been killed. However we were not molested,
+and reached Canton about eight the next morning.
+
+After daylight we were able to get an idea of the country on either bank
+of the muddy river; it was low and marshy, every acre being planted in
+rice. Occasionally, on a slight elevation, would be seen a pagoda-shaped
+temple, standing lonely among the rice fields, where doubtless it had
+stood for many centuries.
+
+At frequent intervals we passed small native boats, some of them with
+sails and loaded with goods, most of them rowed by one or more oars. It
+was to be noticed that when there was only one oar it was being worked
+vigorously by a woman, while a man sat comfortably in the stern and
+steered. These people were evidently going from the crowded villages in
+which they lived to work in the rice fields.
+
+At Canton the river, which is there only a few hundred yards wide, was
+jammed with craft of all kinds, including one or two small war vessels
+and hundreds, probably thousands, of _sampans_. The latter carry
+passengers and small quantities of freight; they are roofed over more or
+less completely and serve as the homes of the owners' families, all the
+members of which take a hand in the rowing.
+
+[Illustration: SAMPANS IN THE HARBOUR OF CANTON.]
+
+The foreign (mostly English and French) quarter of Canton is known as
+"the Shameen" (meaning sand-bank), a small island in the river
+connected with the city proper by a couple of bridges. It has
+beautifully shaded streets and fine houses, and is utterly different
+from the Chinese Canton. At the Shameen's one hotel, which charges the
+modest rate of from four to eight dollars per day for very ordinary
+service, I was told that conditions were "very uncertain" and that
+nobody was allowed to enter the walled city after 9 P. M. without a
+pass.
+
+[Illustration: A WIDE STREET IN CANTON.]
+
+A guide having thrust his services upon me before I could get off the
+boat, we left the Shameen, crossed one of the bridges and plunged into
+the network of streets where, without a guide, a stranger would be lost
+in a few minutes.
+
+In a few of the streets outside of the walled city rickishas are the
+usual means of travel, but inside the walls most of the streets are too
+narrow for rickishas to pass one another, and paving of large flagstones
+is too rough for wheels, so that the sedan chair is the only means of
+locomotion except one's own legs. My self-appointed guide said he would
+get chairs for seven dollars per day ($3.00 in American money) but I
+told him I expected to walk and that if he wanted to go with me he would
+have to do likewise; he immediately professed to think that walking was
+the only way to go, so we agreed to see the town afoot. After we had
+walked pretty briskly for three or four hours he inquired meekly, "Can
+you walk this way all day?" People in the tropics are not usually fond
+of walking, but Ping Nam was "game" and made no further remarks about my
+method of locomotion. Some of the less frequented streets where there
+were no sun-screens overhead were very hot, but in the busy streets the
+sun was almost excluded by bamboo screens and by the walls of the houses
+on each side, so that the heat was not nearly so oppressive as might be
+expected in so terribly congested a city. Many of these streets were so
+narrow that a tall man could touch the houses on each side with
+outstretched hands.
+
+On each side were stores of all sorts with open fronts with gay signs
+and with gayly colored goods on display, making a picture of wonderful
+fascination and everchanging interest.
+
+Although we wandered for hour after hour through a perfect wilderness of
+such streets we saw not a single white person; it seemed as though I
+were the only Caucasian among the more than a million Asiatics, though
+this, of course, was not actually the case.
+
+In the busier streets the crowds filled the space from wall to wall, so
+that when a string of coolies came along, bearing burdens in the usual
+manner from a stick over the shoulder and humming the cheerful though
+monotonous "get-out-of-the-way" tune, we had to step aside, close
+against or into some store to let them pass; and when an occasional
+chair came along it swept the entire traffic aside as a taxi might in a
+crowded alley of an American city.
+
+In spite of the density of the population the people all seemed happy
+and contented; even the little children with faces covered with sores,
+as was often the case, appeared cheerful, and ran and played like other
+children.
+
+In the stores the people could be watched at work of all kinds, from
+blacksmithy to finest filigree silver work inlaid with the tiny colored
+feathers of the brightly colored kingfisher; and from rough carpenter
+work to the finest ivory carving for which the Chinese are famous. Of
+course the amount they pay for some of this work of extreme skill is
+ridiculously small, yet their living expenses are so small that they
+are doubtless in better circumstances than many of the workers in our
+larger cities.
+
+The silk-weavers, working at their primitive looms in crowded rooms,
+excite one's sympathy more than most of the other workers, though they
+too seemed to be quite cheerful over their monotonous tasks.
+
+[Illustration: COURT OF AN ANCESTRAL TEMPLE IN CANTON.]
+
+Through these crowded streets we wandered, the sight of a white man and
+a camera exciting some interest, though not a great deal. Canton is said
+to have been the scene of more outrages of one sort or another than any
+other city in the world, but in spite of the fact that a revolution was
+supposed to be in progress we saw no signs of disorder. There were
+soldiers and armed policemen everywhere, and groups of people were
+frequently seen reading with interest proclamations posted at various
+places; what the nature of the proclamations was I was, of course, not
+able of myself to learn, and Ping Nam did not seem to care to enlighten
+me, possibly thinking he might scare me out of town and thus lose his
+job.
+
+Occasionally stopping to watch some skilful artisan at work or to make
+some small purchase, we went from place to place visiting temples and
+other objects of especial interest. Some of these temples are centuries
+old, others are comparatively new. Some are comparatively plain, others
+like the modern Chun-ka-chi ancestral temple, which is said to have cost
+$750,000 "gold," are wonderfully ornate, with highly colored carvings
+and cement mouldings. Others are of interest chiefly because of the
+hideous images they contain; one of these has hundreds of these idols
+and is hence known as the "Temple of the Five Hundred Genii."
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE "TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII,"
+CANTON.]
+
+After visiting several of these temples and the picturesque flowery
+pagoda we set out for the famous water clock that is said to have been
+built more than thirteen hundred years ago. It is now located in a dark
+little room in the top of an old house and is reached by a winding
+flight of outside stone stairs. It consists of four large jars of water,
+one above the other, so that the water may run slowly, at a definite
+rate, from the upper to the lower jars, and gradually raise, in the
+lowest jar, a float with an attached vertical scale that tells the time.
+In the window visible from the street below signs are placed at
+intervals that tell the time indicated by the clock.
+
+From the water clock we visited the ancient "City of the Dead," a small
+cemetery just outside one of the old city gates. These gates, some of
+which are large and imposing, pierce the dilapidated wall at intervals.
+The wall, about six miles in circumference, is surrounded by the remains
+of a moat, now chiefly useful as an addition to the picturesque
+landscape and as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The top of a city
+gate, reached by a winding stone stairway from within, is a convenient
+place from which to view the densely crowded roofs of the adjacent part
+of the city.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON.]
+
+From the "City of the Dead" we made for the fairly wide street along the
+river front; here we took rickishas, much to the relief of my tired
+guide, to say nothing of my tired self, and were soon at the Canton
+terminus of the K. & C. R. R. The station was thronged with people
+waiting for the Kowloon express.
+
+The road-bed of the K. & C. R. R. is excellent, and the cars and
+engine, all of English make, made a very respectable appearance.
+
+For nearly half of the distance to Kowloon I had my section of the one
+first-class car to myself, as I was the only Caucasian on the train:
+then an English civil engineer and his family came aboard and shared my
+compartment for the rest of the way. The second-and third-class cars,
+of which there were half a dozen or more, were crowded with natives,
+with boxes and bundles of all sorts and sizes.
+
+[Illustration: A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN FROM
+THE "CITY OF THE DEAD," CANTON.]
+
+After making the run of about ninety miles in something less than three
+hours we reached the ferry at Kowloon, and in a quarter of an hour more
+we were again in Hongkong, as different from Canton as though it were on
+the other side of the world instead of being only three hours away.
+
+
+
+
+VIII. MEANDERINGS IN MODERN MANILA.
+
+
+Manila, after twenty years of American control, is a fascinating mixture
+of past and present; of romance and commercialism; of oriental ease and
+occidental hustle.
+
+Enter through one of the beautiful old city gates, say the Santa Lucia,
+which bears the date 1781, and one finds himself in the old or walled
+city, Intramuros, still very Spanish in its appearance, though the
+government offices and other public buildings are here located. The
+massive gray stone wall, started in the early part of the seventeenth
+century, was originally surrounded by a moat, with drawbridges. It is
+said that a very efficient American official once suggested the
+desirability of having the wall whitewashed; fortunately his idea was
+not carried out.
+
+In contrast to the comparative quiet of the narrow streets of the
+Intramuros the docks along the Pasig River, that flows through the heart
+of the town, present a scene of bustle and confusion worthy of a city of
+its size, some 300,000 inhabitants. Here may be seen vessels of all
+sorts, from all parts of the world: steamships, junks, tugs, rowboats,
+and _cascos_, the last being the name given the native barge for
+carrying freight. The casco is covered by a roof of matting, made in
+sliding sections, with a cabin in the stern where the family of the
+owner lives.
+
+While there is an excellent electric street railway system and plenty of
+automobiles to be had, the common method of getting about is to 'phone
+for, or to hail, a passing one-horse vehicle, of which there are three
+distinct types charging different fares for the same service; the more
+expensive vehicles are, however, more comfortable and have better
+horses. Like the taxi-driver of New York or the rickisha-man of
+Singapore the driver of the _caratella_ or _caramata_ will charge all
+the traffic will bear, and it is well for the newcomer to inquire of an
+old resident what the proper fare for a given distance is before
+starting.
+
+[Illustration: SANTA LUCIA GATE.
+
+One of the entrances to the Walled City. Erected 1781.]
+
+The typical vehicle for hauling freight is the low, two-wheeled cart,
+drawn by the slow-moving, long-horned _carabao_ or water buffalo, one of
+the most characteristic animals of the islands. This beast is
+well-named, since it delights to lie buried in a muddy pool of water,
+with just its head above the surface. It may be seen in the larger
+lakes, swimming or wading in the deeper waters at a distance from the
+shore. In the cities it is a quiet, peaceful brute that one brushes
+against without a thought, but in the country, where is browses in the
+open fields, it behooves the white man to be very circumspect as he
+passes in its neighborhood, for it seems to have an aversion to the
+Caucasian race and will frequently charge in a very unpleasant, not to
+say dangerous, way. It is said that the carabao never shows this
+hostility toward the natives. A peculiarity of the law is such that
+should a man shoot a dangerous carabao to protect his own life he would
+have to pay for the animal he killed.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY.
+
+Seen from the outside.]
+
+Of course for small amounts of freight, in Manila as in all places in
+the Orient, the ubiquitous Chinese coolie is the usual means of
+transportation, and with a huge load at each end of a bamboo pole across
+his shoulder he shambles along with a curious gait, between a walk and a
+run, that he seems capable of sustaining for an almost indefinite time.
+
+[Illustration: PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA.
+
+Casco in right foreground, with matting roof.]
+
+The "Chino" of course is the merchant of Manila as of all the cities of
+this part of the world. The main shopping street, the Escolta, is fairly
+lined with Chinese stores of all sorts, some of them quite extensive;
+and some of the narrower side streets, in the same neighborhood, have
+practically no other stores than those kept by the Chinese. It is
+wonderfully interesting to wander about these narrow, winding streets,
+and into the dark, sometimes ill-smelling stores, but one should early
+learn the gentle art of "jewing down" the prices that are first asked
+for goods that are offered for sale. The Oriental always asks much more
+than he is willing or even eager to accept. You ask the price of a
+garment, say, and are told "Two pesos": you shake your head and say "Too
+much": "Peso and half" will then be tried: you again say "Too much" and
+perhaps turn as though to leave the shop; "How much you give?" says the
+crafty merchant; "One peso," perhaps you suggest; "Take it," says the
+eager merchant as he hands you an article that should probably sell for
+half the amount paid. You leave the store feeling good over having
+gotten ahead of the crafty Oriental, and he probably chuckles to himself
+over having cheated the rich American.
+
+[Illustration: A CARAMATA.
+
+The taxi of the lower classes in Manila.]
+
+[Illustration: A CARABAO AND CART.]
+
+Most of the shopping is done in the morning or late in the afternoon.
+For several hours, during the heat of the day, many of the stores are
+closed while the proprietors enjoy a midday lunch and siesta.
+
+[Illustration: PLAZA DE SANTO TOMAS.]
+
+When tired of shopping or sight-seeing one may wander into a nearby
+church or rest in some public park or square, such as the Plaza de Santo
+Tomas. Many of these old squares are exceedingly picturesque and
+attractive.
+
+The different sections of the city are given distinct names, as though
+they were separate towns, but they are separated by imaginary lines
+only. In one of the more residential of these sections is the great
+Manila General Hospital, an up-to-date, modern plant; nearby is the main
+part of the University of the Philippines, whose students, it is said,
+compare quite favorably with the average college students of America. In
+this same neighborhood is also the main part of the Philippine Bureau of
+Science, where trained chemists, geologists, botanists, zoologists,
+bacteriologists, engineers, and other scientific experts are engaged in
+numerous lines of investigation of importance to the welfare of the
+islands. Most of these experts have, in the past, been drawn from the
+United States, as have the professors in the University. Just what will
+be the condition of affairs in these high-grade institutions when the
+islands are entirely under native control is somewhat problematic.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF THE PHILIPPINES.]
+
+While the hotels are not numerous in Manila one may secure the best of
+modern service by going to the Manila Hotel, down on the water-front,
+just off the great promenade and playground known as the Lunetta, where
+everybody goes at night to see everybody else and to listen to the band.
+Or one may see more of the native, especially the Spanish, life of the
+town by stopping at the Hotel de Spain, in the heart of the town, just
+off the Escolta. Here one may be quite, if not luxuriously, comfortable
+at a much more reasonable rate, and may enjoy watching the Spanish and
+other foreign guests of the hotel instead of the usual crowd of military
+and other well-dressed Americans that frequent the Manila Hotel.
+
+[Illustration: MAIN BUILDING OF THE PHILIPPINE BUREAU OF SCIENCE.]
+
+Although the population of Manila largely adheres to the Roman Catholic
+Church, many of the Protestant denominations have churches of their own,
+and a flourishing Y. M. C. A., with a fine, modern building, is
+available for the men of the city.
+
+Life in such a town is certainly very attractive, and there is a charm
+about the place that makes one wish to return; but it is a long, long
+way from home and from many of the things that may be had only in the
+greater countries of Europe and America.
+
+
+
+
+IX. A PACIFIC PARADISE, HONOLULU.
+
+
+The long voyage to or from the Orient is delightfully interrupted by the
+stop at Honolulu, capital of the Hawaiian Islands, about 2,100 miles
+southwest of San "Francisco. This interesting group of volcanic islands
+named in 1778 by their discoverer, Jas. Cook, the Sandwich Islands after
+the Earl of Sandwich, then Lord of the British Admiralty, is said to be
+the most isolated group of inhabited islands in the world. It is
+possible that the real discoverer of the islands was not Jas. Cook, but
+a Spanish seaman named Juan Gaetano, who sighted them in 1555. Cook and
+his men were treated as supernatural beings and worshiped by the
+superstitious natives as gods, until the death of one of the sailors
+showed that they were mere mortals; and in 1779, by their overbearing
+conduct, the Englishmen came into conflict with the irate natives and
+Jas. Cook was killed. "His body was taken to a _heiau_ or temple; the
+flesh was removed from the bones and burned, and the bones were tied up
+with red feathers and deified. Parts of the body were recovered,
+however, and committed to the deep with military honors, and a part of
+the bones were kept in the temple of Lono and worshiped until 1819, when
+they were concealed in some secret place. A monument erected by his
+fellow countrymen now marks the place where he fell on the shores of
+Kealakekua."
+
+In 1893 the queen was deposed and a provisional government was
+established, to be succeeded, in 1894, by the Republic of Hawaii. In
+1900, by an act of Congress, the Hawaiian Islands became a territory of
+the United States. Of the one hundred and ninety and odd thousands of
+inhabitants of the islands, in 1910, nearly eighty thousand were
+Japanese. The native Hawaiians come next in point of numbers and are the
+most interesting people to the average tourist. Though dark-skinned,
+they are quite different in appearance from the negro, and many of the
+young men and women are decidedly good-looking.
+
+As the vessel enters the beautiful harbor, with the city of Honolulu
+spread out along the shore and the mountains rising abruptly in the
+immediate background, the well-formed young men and boys are seen
+alongside in the water or in native boats, ready to dive for the coins
+that the passengers seem always ready to throw to them. These amphibious
+people, like most of those in the tropics, are perfectly at home in the
+water and seem never to tire, no matter how far they may go to meet the
+incoming vessels, as they slowly wind their way through the tortuous
+channels among the treacherous coral reefs.
+
+[Illustration: DIAMOND HEAD, A FORTIFIED EXTINCT VOLCANO.
+
+At the entrance to the harbor of Honolulu.]
+
+To the south of the entrance to the harbor, which it guards with
+batteries of concealed cannon and mortars, is the extinct volcanic
+mountain known as Diamond Head, shown from the land side in the picture.
+A grass-covered, bowl-shaped crater of perhaps half a mile diameter may
+be entered through a tunnel on the land side, where Fort Ruger is
+situated. The rim of the crater, which is only a few hundred feet high,
+may be easily scaled and in most places affords easy walking and a fine
+view of the harbor. In the higher portion of the rim, seen in the right
+of the photograph, is a heavy battery of big guns, concealed in
+passages in the solid rock, that could probably protect the entrance of
+the harbor below from any ordinary fleet. Visitors are not allowed to
+see these rock-hidden batteries, whose existence would never be
+suspected from the smooth, apparently unbroken surface of the rock as
+seen from the harbor.
+
+Like many other beautiful places, Hawaii is said to have the "most
+perfect climate in the world." Add to this wonderful climate and
+beautiful scenery, of sea and mountains combined, the fact that there is
+supposed to be not a snake nor a poisonous plant nor an insect worse
+than bees in all the islands, it would seem that this is truly a
+paradise, without even the serpent to cause trouble.
+
+For the tourist there are excellent hotels and all the conveniences of a
+continental city, and amusements of sufficient variety to suit the most
+blase. For those who are merely stopping off for a day on the way to or
+from more distant ports it is hard to decide which of the many
+interesting places to visit. If it be his first visit, the mere city
+streets with the royal palms and other magnificent trees, the stores,
+the cosmopolitan crowds and other strange sights and sounds will be
+fascinating. A drive to the Punchbowl, the Poli, or more distant points,
+may be taken in a few hours, while if interested in natural history the
+gorgeous fishes and other marine forms to be seen at the Aquarium will
+be a revelation to one accustomed only to the life of the temperate
+zone.
+
+At the Bishop Museum the natural history, ethnology, etc., of the
+islands may be studied in a synoptic form. It is here that the famous
+war-cloak of Kamehameha I is on exhibition. It is a truly wonderful
+garment, four feet long, with a spread of ten feet or more at the
+bottom. It is made of the yellow feathers of the mama bird, and when it
+is realized that each bird furnishes but two small tufts of feathers,
+one under each wing, it will be imagined how many thousands of these
+small birds were sacrificed to make this one robe. It is valued at
+$150,000. It is carefully protected from dust and light but is exhibited
+to visitors to the museum.
+
+In the cool of the evening, when tired from a day of sight-seeing, the
+traveler may listen to the Honolulu Band, on some public square. It is
+composed of native musicians, but the instruments are those of the
+ordinary American brass band, and but for the cosmopolitan character of
+the audience one might imagine himself in a city of southern California
+or some other subtropical part of the United States.
+
+Besides having the most equable climate in the world Honolulu claims the
+most perfect bathing-resort on earth, Waikiki Beach. The water is
+certainly all that could be desired, but the not infrequent sharp masses
+of coral that project up through the white sand of the otherwise perfect
+beach are decidedly objectionable, and the writer cut a gash in his
+foot, by stepping on one of these pieces of coral, that was many days in
+healing.
+
+[Illustration: ROYAL PALMS, HONOLULU.]
+
+Another of the points of interest in the city is the Royal Mausoleum,
+where are the bodies of many of the royalty of the Hawaiian dynasties.
+The Hawaiian alphabet consists of but twelve letters, and the
+preponderance of vowels in many words seems remarkable to an
+English-speaking person. For example one of the bodies in the Royal
+Mausoleum is that of "Kaiminaauao, sister of Queen Kalakaua"; it will be
+noticed that eight of the eleven letters in this name are vowels. In
+this Mausoleum doubtless now rest the remains of Liliuokalani, the last
+queen of Hawaii, who was deposed in 1893 for attempting to force a less
+liberal constitution upon the people. She married an American and twice
+visited the United States, after his death.
+
+If time permit, and the pocketbook too, most interesting side trips to
+the other islands of the group may be made, especially to the active
+volcano, Mauna Loa, 13,760 feet high, with Kilauea on its eastern slope,
+situated on the Island of Hawaii.
+
+While the Hawaiian Islands may not be as perfect as they are advertised,
+they nevertheless give a very fair imitation of Paradise, and a better
+place in which to rest and enjoy nature in her kindest moods would be
+hard to find.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (nearby, near-by)
+
+Pg. 45, unusual spelling of word "variagated" retained. (and large and
+variagated smells)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Wanderings in the Orient, by Albert M. Reese
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