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+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+       Published by
+Needlecraft Publishing Company
+      Augusta, Maine
+           1918
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]
+
+_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_
+
+Handbook of Crochet
+
+By Emma Chalmers Monroe
+
+This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
+valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
+wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
+selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
+successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.
+
+It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
+of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
+Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.
+
+The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.
+
+Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
+you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Knitting
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]
+
+The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
+several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
+generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
+for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
+the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
+left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
+the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
+finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
+and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
+a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
+ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
+knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
+up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
+off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
+operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
+carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."
+
+Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
+except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
+thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
+and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
+thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
+and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
+lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
+knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
+method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
+where much wear comes.
+
+Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
+when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
+left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
+crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
+simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
+point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
+needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
+of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
+loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
+front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
+the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
+off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
+needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
+and evenly.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]
+
+The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
+of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
+left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
+facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
+and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
+knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
+first stitch of each row.
+
+Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
+value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
+which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
+By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
+second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
+crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
+usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
+back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
+is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
+more rapidly done.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]
+
+The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
+knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
+wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
+back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
+needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
+on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
+in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
+from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
+and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
+plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
+Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
+its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]
+
+Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
+This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
+one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
+row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
+purled.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]
+
+The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
+on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
+variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
+such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."
+
+There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
+it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
+allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
+two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
+plain knitting.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]
+
+"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
+usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
+be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
+row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
+narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
+larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
+the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.
+
+To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
+for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
+the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for this.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]
+
+To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
+needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
+narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
+stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
+previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
+of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
+as elastic as the remainder of the work.
+
+
+
+
+A Sleeveless Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
+skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.
+
+Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:
+
+1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.
+
+2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.
+
+Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
+check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
+checks deep, or 30 rows.
+
+Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
+every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
+purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
+convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
+the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
+across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
+and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
+rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.
+
+Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
+rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
+to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
+correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
+other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
+underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.
+
+For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
+border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
+checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
+is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.
+
+
+
+
+Costume for the Winter-Girl
+
+
+[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]
+
+Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
+model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
+Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
+steel crochet-hook, No. 6.
+
+For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
+(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
+give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
+end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
+stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
+until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
+measures 15½ inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
+spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
+stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
+correspond.
+
+Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
+every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
+toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
+increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
+have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
+stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
+9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
+or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
+back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
+correspond and sew up side-seams.
+
+With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
+number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
+stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
+having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
+on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
+corner stitch.
+
+1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
+narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
+stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
+repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.
+
+2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
+narrowed one.
+
+3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
+corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
+row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
+beginning.
+
+In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
+bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
+repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
+stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
+4 more ridges, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges,
+casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
+are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
+1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
+stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
+inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
+bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.
+
+Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
+(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
+pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
+ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
+on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.
+
+Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
+and sew in place with two buttons at each side.
+
+Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
+next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
+work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
+double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
+preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
+and used to cover mold.
+
+The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
+8.
+
+Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
+needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) in rounds for 1½ inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
+1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
+measures 14½ inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
+sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.
+
+Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
+in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
+top of cap.
+
+Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
+two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
+knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
+stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
+knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
+ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
+or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
+Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.
+
+Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
+and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
+once.
+
+Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
+rounds plain.
+
+61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.
+
+62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
+you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
+the needles.
+
+To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
+stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.
+
+Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.
+
+Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
+stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
+cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
+palm of hand on another needle.
+
+First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
+from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
+and finish off as directed for the thumb.
+
+Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
+knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
+base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
+plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
+picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.
+
+Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
+stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
+second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
+for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
+off as thumb.
+
+Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
+from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
+needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.
+
+These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
+way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
+the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
+side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
+7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.
+
+
+
+
+Children's Knitted Sets
+
+
+Set No. 1
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 1]
+
+Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
+ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
+the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
+back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
+ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
+narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
+cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.
+
+The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
+stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.
+
+Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
+ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
+34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
+first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
+end.
+
+Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
+two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
+forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
+for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
+30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
+bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
+rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
+28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
+to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
+is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
+bind off evenly.
+
+Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
+and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
+and turn back the cuffs.
+
+For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
+gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.
+
+Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
+crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
+with balls or tassels.
+
+
+Set No. 2
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 2]
+
+Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
+stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
+sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
+the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
+front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
+stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
+stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.
+
+Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
+work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
+around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
+miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
+and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
+in the same way, and run in cord and balls.
+
+For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
+and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
+around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
+color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
+of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.
+
+The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
+preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
+it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
+the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
+together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
+the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
+hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
+yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
+left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
+up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
+would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
+two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
+loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
+the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
+formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
+through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
+through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
+and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
+learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.
+
+
+
+
+A Serviceable Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]
+
+Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
+pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
+also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
+before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
+should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
+inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.
+
+It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
+will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
+ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
+over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
+rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
+When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
+keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
+a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.
+
+Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
+plain for the band at lower edge.
+
+13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.
+
+14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
+Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.
+
+111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.
+
+112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.
+
+114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.
+
+115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.
+
+116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.
+
+117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.
+
+118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.
+
+119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.
+
+120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
+these.
+
+121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.
+
+122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.
+
+123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.
+
+124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.
+
+125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.
+
+126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
+these.
+
+130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
+rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
+stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
+the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
+knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
+then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
+bind off.
+
+Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.
+
+13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
+Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.
+
+28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
+3, bind off 3, knit 4.
+
+29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
+buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
+the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.
+
+Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
+pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
+armhole.
+
+121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
+keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
+8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
+stitches.
+
+177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
+leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.
+
+179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
+the 7 stitches previously left), turn.
+
+181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.
+
+183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
+needle.
+
+184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.
+
+2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
+1, turn.
+
+4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
+remain, turn.
+
+13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.
+
+14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
+every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
+until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.
+
+Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
+follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
+narrow, knit 2, to end of row.
+
+Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.
+
+2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.
+
+3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.
+
+Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
+rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.
+
+To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
+shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
+fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
+drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
+blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
+shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
+perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
+to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
+sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
+there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
+before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
+five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
+to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
+back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.
+
+This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
+be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
+ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
+knitted.
+
+As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
+stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
+cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
+on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
+Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]
+
+This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
+Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
+combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
+work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
+the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
+back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
+96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
+12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
+belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
+at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
+without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
+needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
+knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
+increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
+for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
+completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
+knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
+on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
+buttonholes if these are used.
+
+For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
+each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
+Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
+larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
+ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.
+
+Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
+stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
+stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
+right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
+rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
+the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
+correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
+be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.
+
+Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
+crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
+fasten the belt.
+
+For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
+chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
+next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
+will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
+cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
+used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
+preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
+underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
+double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]
+
+Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
+57 stitches.
+
+1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+knit 6; repeat twice.
+
+2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+5. Same as 4th row.
+
+6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
+work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.
+
+Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
+until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
+back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
+palm.
+
+Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
+must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
+same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
+stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
+continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
+Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
+once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
+arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.
+
+Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
+thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
+2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
+little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
+cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
+of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
+off.
+
+First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
+the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
+stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
+narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
+off as before.
+
+Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
+them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
+on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
+until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
+of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
+and finish off as directed.
+
+Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
+proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
+plain and finish off.
+
+
+
+
+Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming
+
+
+[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]
+
+Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
+colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
+black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.
+
+Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
+Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
+the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.
+
+Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
+enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
+other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.
+
+Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
+the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
+three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
+having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
+joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
+using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
+stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
+well to the foot.
+
+For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
+forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
+the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
+alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
+the bows.
+
+These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
+to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
+number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
+proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
+the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
+stitches, following the same general directions.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Long Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]
+
+Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
+knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.
+
+With color, cast on 57 stitches.
+
+1. Knit plain.
+
+2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
+over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.
+
+3. Purl.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
+repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
+2 rows plain with white.
+
+With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).
+
+With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
+repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.
+
+With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.
+
+Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
+times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
+2 of the "overs."
+
+Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
+rib, completing the leg.
+
+For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
+color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
+purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
+which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
+color; again knit forward and back with color.
+
+For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
+needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
+across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
+needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
+foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.
+
+These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
+The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
+slip down and off the little feet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Knitted Mittens
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]
+
+Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
+loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
+needles.
+
+Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
+inches.
+
+For the pattern, knit as follows:
+
+1. Purl.
+
+2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.
+
+These 4 rows are repeated throughout.
+
+Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
+pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
+continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
+widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
+between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
+twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.
+
+Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
+stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
+knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
+narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
+hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
+knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
+around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
+knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
+narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
+wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
+longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
+child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
+long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.
+
+Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
+and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
+around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.
+
+Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
+reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
+stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.
+
+
+
+
+Knee-Cap
+
+
+[Illustration: Knee-Cap]
+
+Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
+appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
+gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
+were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
+desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.
+
+Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
+single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
+begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
+basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.
+
+Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
+stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
+on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
+until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
+on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
+needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
+of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
+finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
+down in every other stitch.
+
+To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
+then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
+exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
+change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
+and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.
+
+
+
+
+Wristers or Pulse-Warmers
+
+
+[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]
+
+Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
+described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
+exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
+quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
+man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
+knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
+required. Bind off loosely.
+
+With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
+a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
+after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
+next.
+
+Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in
+next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
+filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
+making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
+prettily used for this finish.
+
+A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
+pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
+and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
+with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
+forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.
+
+
+
+
+Motor-Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]
+
+This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
+Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.
+
+1, 3. Purl.
+
+2. Knit plain.
+
+4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.
+
+5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.
+
+6. Knit plain.
+
+7, 9. With white, purl.
+
+8, 10. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
+with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
+of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
+double.
+
+Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
+10 threads each of pink and white.
+
+
+
+
+Sport Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Sport Scarf]
+
+A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
+cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
+Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
+(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
+brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
+green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
+times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
+of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
+the other end of scarf as directed for first half.
+
+For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
+in each stitch.
+
+For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
+stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
+more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
+of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
+find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.
+
+Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
+Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.
+
+
+
+
+Scarf in Lattice-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]
+
+Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
+required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.
+
+Knit back and forth 6 times.
+
+7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.
+
+8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
+and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
+left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
+the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
+stitches are not twisted.
+
+9. 10, 11. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat from 7th row.
+
+Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
+bow of ribbon, as preferred.
+
+
+
+
+Knitting for the Red Cross
+
+(Official Red Cross Photographs)
+
+
+Sleeveless Sweater
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a
+pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
+11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
+2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
+stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
+plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
+leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
+row single crochet around armholes.
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]
+
+
+Washcloth
+
+[Illustration: Washcloth]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
+inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.
+
+
+Service Sock
+
+[Illustration: Service Sock]
+
+A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
+with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
+20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.
+
+Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
+purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
+plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
+stitch for four inches.
+
+Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
+seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
+knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
+round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.
+
+For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
+rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
+stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
+together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
+slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
+purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
+slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
+Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
+finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
+knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.
+
+Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
+knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
+side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
+to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
+stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
+needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.
+
+Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
+following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
+knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
+3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
+bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
+rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
+times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
+on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
+darning in with a worsted-needle.
+
+
+One-Piece Helmet
+
+[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
+and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
+These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
+pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
+be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).
+
+Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.
+
+Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
+needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
+opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
+further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
+stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
+stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½
+inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).
+
+Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
+stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
+round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
+round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
+7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
+needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.
+
+Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:
+
+* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
+knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
+purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
+as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
+needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
+stitches are off the needle.
+
+
+Muffler
+
+[Illustration: Muffler]
+
+Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
+5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
+measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
+sixty-eight inches in length.
+
+
+Hot-Water-Bottle Cover
+
+[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
+inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or
+until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
+beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
+stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
+together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.
+
+
+Helmet Made in Two Parts
+
+[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.
+
+The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.
+
+FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
+opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
+spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
+point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
+opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
+the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
+when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
+for 24 rows.
+
+TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
+row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
+row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
+knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
+left.
+
+BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
+Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.
+
+
+Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet
+
+[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]
+
+The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
+gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
+Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
+for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
+inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
+pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed
+up with no thumb-opening.
+
+Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
+needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
+needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
+to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
+knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
+first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.
+
+
+Bed-Sock
+
+[Illustration: Bed-sock]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
+or steel needles No. 11 or 12.
+
+Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
+for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
+together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
+other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
+finishing one-piece helmet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]
+
+Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
+needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches.
+
+1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.
+
+17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.
+
+18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.
+
+Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
+and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
+Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
+of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.
+
+Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
+the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
+of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
+have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.
+
+Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
+ankle, thus:
+
+1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
+the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
+10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
+from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.
+
+2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.
+
+3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
+7.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
+directed in 1st row, every 6th row.
+
+For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
+these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
+ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
+forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.
+
+Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
+the middle seam.
+
+Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
+thus:
+
+1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
+around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.
+
+2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
+repeat.
+
+Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.
+
+
+
+
+A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]
+
+Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
+plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
+knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
+for the front or turnover of the hood.
+
+Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
+to run ribbon.
+
+Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
+distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
+trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
+repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
+give a good selvage.
+
+Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
+on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
+the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
+ribs the same.
+
+Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
+Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
+of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
+extreme end of crown.
+
+Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
+about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
+crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
+knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
+lower edge of front.
+
+Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
+tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.
+
+By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
+proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
+admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Crochet
+
+
+The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
+and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
+a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
+slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
+is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.
+
+There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
+thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
+usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
+and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
+much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
+nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
+that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
+second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
+slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
+good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
+fluffy as possible.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]
+
+THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
+the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
+thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
+thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
+continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
+as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without thought. When
+abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.
+
+THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
+the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
+join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
+fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
+more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]
+
+SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
+mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
+the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
+needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
+stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
+back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
+different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]
+
+TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
+thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
+draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
+thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
+abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
+crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
+these stitches take their names.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]
+
+HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
+thread and draw through all three stitches at once.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
+up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
+off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
+of double-treble crochet is d t c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]
+
+TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
+hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
+needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
+abbreviation is t t c.
+
+One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
+quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
+quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
+at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
+chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
+short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."
+
+PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
+necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
+directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
+equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
+treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
+3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.
+
+The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
+well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
+catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
+is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
+the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
+given is the best that can be.
+
+
+
+
+Crocheted Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]
+
+One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
+extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
+sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
+Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
+and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
+
+Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
+from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
+
+2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
+chain; repeat across, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
+back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
+
+Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
+until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
+made 4 rows.
+
+In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
+row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
+you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
+front is of the same length as the back.
+
+Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
+other front to correspond.
+
+For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used)
+at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
+treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
+around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
+
+Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
+the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
+widening the same stitches at corners each time.
+
+Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
+Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
+around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
+as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
+and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
+
+For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
+repeat.
+
+The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
+may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
+made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
+loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
+chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
+last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
+stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
+turn.
+
+3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
+cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
+
+The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
+length, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
+in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
+
+Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
+follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
+3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
+2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
+from * to end of row, turn.
+
+4. Same as 2d row.
+
+5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
+treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
+a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
+and 5th rows.
+
+And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
+repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
+repeat. Repeat 2d row.
+
+
+
+
+Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]
+
+For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
+a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
+easily.
+
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
+
+1. Seven doubles in ring.
+
+2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
+
+3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
+you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
+larger crown is desired.
+
+33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
+
+46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
+off the last row neatly.
+
+Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
+stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
+in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
+double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
+will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
+widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
+the cover is closed.
+
+For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
+double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
+or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
+length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
+indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
+"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
+end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
+forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
+through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
+held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
+forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
+or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
+crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
+forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
+the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
+the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
+the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
+of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
+non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
+forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
+up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
+double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
+may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
+
+Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
+completed.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]
+
+Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
+enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
+stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
+trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
+back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
+trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
+chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
+back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.
+
+3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.
+
+Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
+over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
+sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
+will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
+repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
+that.
+
+2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
+row, and treble in treble; repeat.
+
+3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
+trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
+treble; repeat.
+
+Work around the armscye in same way.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Coat Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]
+
+Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
+size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
+crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.
+
+Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
+rib.
+
+3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
+2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
+of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
+loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
+star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
+turn.
+
+Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
+star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
+on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
+rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
+the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
+unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
+other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.
+
+Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
+(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
+directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
+1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.
+
+Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
+single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
+done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
+the opening for armholes.
+
+For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
+around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
+the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
+around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
+neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
+5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.
+
+For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
+on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
+star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
+worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
+with single crochet, as you did the back.
+
+For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
+and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
+a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
+buttonholes.
+
+This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
+with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
+the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
+of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
+smoothly.
+
+Make a chain of 78 stitches.
+
+1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
+twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
+again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
+side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
+row.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
+other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
+thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
+between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.
+
+9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
+continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
+front again.
+
+10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
+in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
+of the jacket.
+
+21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
+corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
+stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
+all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
+back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.
+
+22. Stars all around, of color.
+
+23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
+trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
+star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.
+
+24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
+trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.
+
+25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.
+
+26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
+which to run cord or ribbon.
+
+27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.
+
+28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.
+
+29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.
+
+30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
+between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
+off neatly.
+
+For the sleeve:
+
+1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
+number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
+under the arm.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
+of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.
+
+12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
+stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
+each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
+only 12 stars in the round.
+
+13. With the color, make star in star.
+
+14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.
+
+15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.
+
+This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
+may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
+making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
+make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
+effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
+stitch.
+
+Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
+white and color, in the spaces around the neck.
+
+
+
+
+Girl's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Girl's jacket]
+
+Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
+blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.
+
+1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
+repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.
+
+2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
+repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.
+
+3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
+alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
+blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
+you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
+make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
+double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
+across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
+5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
+front in exactly the same way.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
+blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
+each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
+around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.
+
+2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
+fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.
+
+Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
+the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
+and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.
+
+For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
+jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
+in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
+of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
+and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
+has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.
+
+For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
+3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
+from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
+blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
+make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
+match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
+chain-loops.
+
+For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
+border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
+of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
+chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
+blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
+consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
+upper edge of jacket-border.
+
+Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
+(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
+yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
+lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
+used to draw in the neck.
+
+Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
+made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
+Saxony for a baby.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
+silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
+of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
+
+Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
+up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
+work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).
+
+2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
+treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
+repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
+end where you began.
+
+3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
+over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
+to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
+on each cross and 1 between.
+
+4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
+
+5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
+crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
+plain.
+
+6. Forty-eight crosses.
+
+7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
+plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
+
+8. Fifty-eight crosses.
+
+9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
+miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
+
+10. Thirty-six crosses.
+
+11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
+crosses at center of back.
+
+12. Forty crosses.
+
+13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
+
+14. Forty-two crosses.
+
+15. Like 13th row.
+
+16. Forty-four crosses.
+
+17. Like 13th row.
+
+18. Forty-six crosses.
+
+19. Plain, without widening in the back.
+
+Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
+foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
+1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
+jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
+this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
+stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
+making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
+between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
+2, and repeat.
+
+For the sleeves:
+
+1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
+
+2. Fourteen crosses.
+
+3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
+
+4. Fifteen crosses.
+
+5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
+
+6. Sixteen crosses.
+
+7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
+
+8. Seventeen crosses.
+
+9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
+
+Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
+Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
+remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
+on top.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Shoes in Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]
+
+These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
+delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
+the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
+coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
+directions.
+
+Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
+in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
+
+2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
+within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
+stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
+the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
+from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
+
+5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
+with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
+with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
+
+6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
+widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
+
+7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
+side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
+
+8. Same as 7th row.
+
+9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
+3d of 4 chain.
+
+10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
+from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
+missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
+
+11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
+directed.
+
+13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
+then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
+
+14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
+middle and at end.
+
+15, 17. Like 13th row.
+
+16, 18. Like 14th row.
+
+19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
+the sides.
+
+20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.
+
+21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d
+row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
+1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
+turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
+a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
+end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
+double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
+turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
+side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
+row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
+double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
+with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
+to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
+double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
+double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
+rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
+with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
+buttonholes added.
+
+For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
+double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
+a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
+the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
+
+
+
+
+Ribbed House-Slippers
+
+
+[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]
+
+Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
+Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
+in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
+in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
+rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
+chain 1, turn.
+
+3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
+row.
+
+6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
+
+7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
+
+Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
+as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
+doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
+
+For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
+double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
+the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
+neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
+
+Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
+Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
+(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
+chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
+join to 5th of 10 chain.
+
+For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
+pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
+three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
+make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
+entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
+shade as the yarn.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]
+
+A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
+scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
+pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
+white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
+belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
+in the above paragraph.]
+
+Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
+stitch to form a rib, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
+11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
+doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
+working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
+back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
+
+For the upper part of leg:
+
+1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
+chain.
+
+2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
+stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
+loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
+loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
+before and repeat around.
+
+3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
+pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
+before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
+off, and repeat.
+
+4. Like 3d row, with blue.
+
+5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
+
+7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
+
+8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
+
+9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
+stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
+instep.
+
+2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
+rib.
+
+3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
+
+5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
+
+7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
+single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
+ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]
+
+NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
+
+2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
+3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
+
+13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
+next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
+around, join.
+
+14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
+securely.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
+loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
+draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
+are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
+the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
+afghan-stitch.
+
+Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
+stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
+each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
+5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
+Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.
+
+
+
+
+A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]
+
+One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
+a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
+with a chain of 60 stitches.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
+treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
+repeat.
+
+4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
+
+5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
+
+On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
+which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
+length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
+sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
+size.
+
+For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
+row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
+also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
+
+Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
+yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
+stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
+front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
+
+Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
+to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
+buttonholes.
+
+Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
+
+1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
+through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
+chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
+to top of 1st.
+
+2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
+2; join.
+
+3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
+or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
+
+4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
+to keep the shape.
+
+Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
+
+For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
+working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
+the right side.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
+through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
+through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
+loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
+back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
+stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
+
+Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
+crocheted cord.
+
+This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
+Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
+to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
+working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
+also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
+bean-stitches in each row.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
+little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
+join.
+
+1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
+through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
+a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
+between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
+
+2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
+stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
+stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
+bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
+
+3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
+with 1 chain between, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
+
+5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
+widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
+bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
+
+11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
+
+14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
+stitch.
+
+15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
+stitch; narrow twice in each row.
+
+20, 21. Double in each double.
+
+22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
+
+23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
+
+28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
+hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
+all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
+This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
+
+For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
+chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
+doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
+until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
+button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
+have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
+needle and sew to center of crown.
+
+This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
+may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
+extra warmth.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]
+
+Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
+to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
+through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
+made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
+as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
+
+2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
+stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
+that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
+
+3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
+
+4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
+rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
+stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
+3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
+
+Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
+entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
+corner of front to prevent drawing.
+
+For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
+chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
+in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
+ribbon.
+
+This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
+stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
+white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
+While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.
+
+Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
+
+1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
+
+2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
+draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
+and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
+
+3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
+needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
+insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
+stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.
+
+4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
+
+5. Plain, that is, without widening.
+
+6. Widen every 3d stitch.
+
+7, 8, 9. Plain.
+
+10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
+other end again.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
+neck.
+
+16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
+pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
+border.
+
+17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
+
+19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
+both veins of stitch.
+
+Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
+top, and ribbon ties.
+
+To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
+until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
+and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
+following the general directions given.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
+easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
+eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
+and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
+Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
+suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
+catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
+
+1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
+insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
+the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
+wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
+
+2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
+needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
+in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
+chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
+other stitch of last round.
+
+3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
+
+4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
+
+Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
+used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
+that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
+five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
+you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
+inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
+head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of
+needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate
+directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the
+articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the
+stitch to use and shows how to make it.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns,
+perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery
+shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will
+furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From
+these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look
+like the pictures.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells
+you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive
+cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical
+home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses
+the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish
+in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and
+fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of
+exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a
+new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers
+are different and practical.
+
+A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name
+and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail;
+or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues.
+You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been
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+reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your
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+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
+
+The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
+business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
+the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
+the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
+women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
+vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.
+
+There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
+every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
+of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
+and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
+squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
+than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
+and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
+without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
+to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
+all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
+wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
+drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
+
+~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
+Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
+Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~
+
+Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
+subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
+this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
+one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
+reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
+if necessary.)
+
+    NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
+    lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
+    same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
+    Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
+    and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
+    6397).
+
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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diff --git a/26113-8.txt~ b/26113-8.txt~
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+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+       Published by
+Needlecraft Publishing Company
+      Augusta, Maine
+           1918
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]
+
+_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_
+
+Handbook of Crochet
+
+By Emma Chalmers Monroe
+
+This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
+valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
+wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
+selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
+successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.
+
+It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
+of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
+Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.
+
+The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.
+
+Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
+you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Knitting
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]
+
+The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
+several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
+generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
+for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
+the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
+left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
+the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
+finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
+and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
+a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
+ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
+knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
+up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
+off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
+operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
+carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."
+
+Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
+except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
+thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
+and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
+thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
+and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
+lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
+knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
+method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
+where much wear comes.
+
+Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
+when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
+left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
+crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
+simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
+point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
+needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
+of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
+loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
+front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
+the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
+off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
+needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
+and evenly.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]
+
+The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
+of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
+left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
+facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
+and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
+knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
+first stitch of each row.
+
+Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
+value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
+which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
+By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
+second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
+crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
+usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
+back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
+is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
+more rapidly done.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]
+
+The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
+knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
+wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
+back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
+needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
+on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
+in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
+from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
+and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
+plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
+Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
+its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]
+
+Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
+This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
+one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
+row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
+purled.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]
+
+The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
+on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
+variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
+such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."
+
+There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
+it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
+allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
+two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
+plain knitting.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]
+
+"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
+usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
+be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
+row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
+narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
+larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
+the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.
+
+To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
+for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
+the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for this.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]
+
+To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
+needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
+narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
+stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
+previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
+of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
+as elastic as the remainder of the work.
+
+
+
+
+A Sleeveless Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
+skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.
+
+Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:
+
+1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.
+
+2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.
+
+Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
+check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
+checks deep, or 30 rows.
+
+Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
+every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
+purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
+convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
+the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
+across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
+and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
+rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.
+
+Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
+rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
+to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
+correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
+other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
+underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.
+
+For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
+border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
+checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
+is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.
+
+
+
+
+Costume for the Winter-Girl
+
+
+[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]
+
+Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
+model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
+Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
+steel crochet-hook, No. 6.
+
+For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
+(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
+give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
+end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
+stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
+until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
+measures 15½ inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
+spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
+stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
+correspond.
+
+Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
+every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
+toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
+increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
+have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
+stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
+9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
+or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
+back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
+correspond and sew up side-seams.
+
+With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
+number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
+stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
+having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
+on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
+corner stitch.
+
+1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
+narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
+stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
+repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.
+
+2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
+narrowed one.
+
+3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
+corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
+row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
+beginning.
+
+In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
+bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
+repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
+stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
+4 more ridges, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges,
+casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
+are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
+1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
+stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
+inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
+bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.
+
+Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
+(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
+pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
+ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
+on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.
+
+Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
+and sew in place with two buttons at each side.
+
+Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
+next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
+work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
+double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
+preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
+and used to cover mold.
+
+The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
+8.
+
+Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
+needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) in rounds for 1½ inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
+1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
+measures 14½ inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
+sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.
+
+Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
+in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
+top of cap.
+
+Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
+two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
+knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
+stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
+knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
+ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
+or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
+Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.
+
+Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
+and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
+once.
+
+Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
+rounds plain.
+
+61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.
+
+62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
+you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
+the needles.
+
+To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
+stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.
+
+Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.
+
+Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
+stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
+cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
+palm of hand on another needle.
+
+First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
+from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
+and finish off as directed for the thumb.
+
+Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
+knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
+base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
+plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
+picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.
+
+Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
+stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
+second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
+for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
+off as thumb.
+
+Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
+from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
+needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.
+
+These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
+way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
+the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
+side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
+7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.
+
+
+
+
+Children's Knitted Sets
+
+
+Set No. 1
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 1]
+
+Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
+ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
+the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
+back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
+ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
+narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
+cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.
+
+The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
+stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.
+
+Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
+ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
+34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
+first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
+end.
+
+Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
+two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
+forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
+for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
+30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
+bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
+rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
+28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
+to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
+is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
+bind off evenly.
+
+Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
+and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
+and turn back the cuffs.
+
+For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
+gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.
+
+Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
+crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
+with balls or tassels.
+
+
+Set No. 2
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 2]
+
+Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
+stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
+sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
+the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
+front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
+stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
+stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.
+
+Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
+work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
+around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
+miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
+and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
+in the same way, and run in cord and balls.
+
+For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
+and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
+around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
+color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
+of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.
+
+The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
+preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
+it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
+the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
+together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
+the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
+hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
+yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
+left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
+up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
+would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
+two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
+loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
+the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
+formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
+through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
+through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
+and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
+learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.
+
+
+
+
+A Serviceable Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]
+
+Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
+pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
+also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
+before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
+should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
+inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.
+
+It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
+will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
+ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
+over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
+rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
+When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
+keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
+a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.
+
+Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
+plain for the band at lower edge.
+
+13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.
+
+14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
+Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.
+
+111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.
+
+112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.
+
+114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.
+
+115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.
+
+116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.
+
+117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.
+
+118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.
+
+119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.
+
+120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
+these.
+
+121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.
+
+122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.
+
+123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.
+
+124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.
+
+125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.
+
+126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
+these.
+
+130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
+rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
+stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
+the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
+knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
+then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
+bind off.
+
+Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.
+
+13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
+Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.
+
+28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
+3, bind off 3, knit 4.
+
+29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
+buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
+the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.
+
+Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
+pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
+armhole.
+
+121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
+keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
+8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
+stitches.
+
+177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
+leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.
+
+179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
+the 7 stitches previously left), turn.
+
+181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.
+
+183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
+needle.
+
+184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.
+
+2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
+1, turn.
+
+4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
+remain, turn.
+
+13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.
+
+14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
+every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
+until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.
+
+Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
+follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
+narrow, knit 2, to end of row.
+
+Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.
+
+2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.
+
+3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.
+
+Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
+rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.
+
+To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
+shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
+fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
+drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
+blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
+shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
+perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
+to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
+sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
+there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
+before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
+five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
+to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
+back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.
+
+This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
+be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
+ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
+knitted.
+
+As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
+stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
+cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
+on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
+Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]
+
+This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
+Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
+combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
+work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
+the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
+back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
+96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
+12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
+belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
+at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
+without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
+needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
+knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
+increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
+for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
+completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
+knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
+on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
+buttonholes if these are used.
+
+For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
+each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
+Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
+larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
+ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.
+
+Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
+stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
+stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
+right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
+rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
+the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
+correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
+be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.
+
+Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
+crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
+fasten the belt.
+
+For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
+chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
+next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
+will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
+cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
+used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
+preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
+underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
+double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]
+
+Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
+57 stitches.
+
+1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+knit 6; repeat twice.
+
+2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+5. Same as 4th row.
+
+6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
+work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.
+
+Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
+until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
+back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
+palm.
+
+Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
+must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
+same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
+stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
+continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
+Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
+once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
+arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.
+
+Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
+thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
+2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
+little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
+cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
+of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
+off.
+
+First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
+the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
+stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
+narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
+off as before.
+
+Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
+them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
+on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
+until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
+of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
+and finish off as directed.
+
+Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
+proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
+plain and finish off.
+
+
+
+
+Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming
+
+
+[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]
+
+Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
+colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
+black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.
+
+Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
+Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
+the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.
+
+Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
+enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
+other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.
+
+Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
+the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
+three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
+having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
+joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
+using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
+stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
+well to the foot.
+
+For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
+forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
+the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
+alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
+the bows.
+
+These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
+to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
+number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
+proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
+the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
+stitches, following the same general directions.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Long Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]
+
+Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
+knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.
+
+With color, cast on 57 stitches.
+
+1. Knit plain.
+
+2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
+over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.
+
+3. Purl.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
+repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
+2 rows plain with white.
+
+With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).
+
+With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
+repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.
+
+With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.
+
+Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
+times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
+2 of the "overs."
+
+Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
+rib, completing the leg.
+
+For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
+color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
+purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
+which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
+color; again knit forward and back with color.
+
+For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
+needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
+across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
+needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
+foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.
+
+These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
+The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
+slip down and off the little feet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Knitted Mittens
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]
+
+Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
+loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
+needles.
+
+Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
+inches.
+
+For the pattern, knit as follows:
+
+1. Purl.
+
+2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.
+
+These 4 rows are repeated throughout.
+
+Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
+pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
+continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
+widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
+between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
+twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.
+
+Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
+stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
+knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
+narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
+hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
+knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
+around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
+knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
+narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
+wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
+longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
+child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
+long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.
+
+Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
+and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
+around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.
+
+Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
+reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
+stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.
+
+
+
+
+Knee-Cap
+
+
+[Illustration: Knee-Cap]
+
+Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
+appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
+gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
+were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
+desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.
+
+Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
+single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
+begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
+basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.
+
+Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
+stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
+on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
+until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
+on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
+needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
+of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
+finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
+down in every other stitch.
+
+To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
+then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
+exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
+change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
+and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.
+
+
+
+
+Wristers or Pulse-Warmers
+
+
+[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]
+
+Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
+described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
+exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
+quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
+man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
+knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
+required. Bind off loosely.
+
+With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
+a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
+after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
+next.
+
+Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in
+next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
+filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
+making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
+prettily used for this finish.
+
+A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
+pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
+and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
+with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
+forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.
+
+
+
+
+Motor-Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]
+
+This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
+Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.
+
+1, 3. Purl.
+
+2. Knit plain.
+
+4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.
+
+5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.
+
+6. Knit plain.
+
+7, 9. With white, purl.
+
+8, 10. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
+with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
+of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
+double.
+
+Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
+10 threads each of pink and white.
+
+
+
+
+Sport Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Sport Scarf]
+
+A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
+cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
+Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
+(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
+brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
+green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
+times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
+of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
+the other end of scarf as directed for first half.
+
+For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
+in each stitch.
+
+For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
+stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
+more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
+of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
+find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.
+
+Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
+Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.
+
+
+
+
+Scarf in Lattice-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]
+
+Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
+required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.
+
+Knit back and forth 6 times.
+
+7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.
+
+8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
+and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
+left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
+the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
+stitches are not twisted.
+
+9. 10, 11. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat from 7th row.
+
+Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
+bow of ribbon, as preferred.
+
+
+
+
+Knitting for the Red Cross
+
+(Official Red Cross Photographs)
+
+
+Sleeveless Sweater
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a
+pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
+11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
+2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
+stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
+plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
+leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
+row single crochet around armholes.
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]
+
+
+Washcloth
+
+[Illustration: Washcloth]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
+inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.
+
+
+Service Sock
+
+[Illustration: Service Sock]
+
+A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
+with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
+20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.
+
+Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
+purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
+plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
+stitch for four inches.
+
+Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
+seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
+knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
+round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.
+
+For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
+rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
+stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
+together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
+slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
+purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
+slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
+Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
+finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
+knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.
+
+Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
+knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
+side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
+to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
+stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
+needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.
+
+Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
+following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
+knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
+3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
+bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
+rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
+times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
+on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
+darning in with a worsted-needle.
+
+
+One-Piece Helmet
+
+[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
+and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
+These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
+pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
+be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).
+
+Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.
+
+Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
+needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
+opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
+further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
+stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
+stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½
+inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).
+
+Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
+stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
+round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
+round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
+7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
+needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.
+
+Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:
+
+* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
+knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
+purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
+as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
+needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
+stitches are off the needle.
+
+
+Muffler
+
+[Illustration: Muffler]
+
+Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
+5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
+measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
+sixty-eight inches in length.
+
+
+Hot-Water-Bottle Cover
+
+[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
+inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or
+until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
+beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
+stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
+together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.
+
+
+Helmet Made in Two Parts
+
+[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.
+
+The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.
+
+FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
+opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
+spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
+point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
+opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
+the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
+when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
+for 24 rows.
+
+TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
+row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
+row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
+knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
+left.
+
+BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
+Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.
+
+
+Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet
+
+[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]
+
+The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
+gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
+Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
+for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
+inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
+pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed
+up with no thumb-opening.
+
+Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
+needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
+needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
+to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
+knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
+first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.
+
+
+Bed-Sock
+
+[Illustration: Bed-sock]
+
+One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
+or steel needles No. 11 or 12.
+
+Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
+for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
+together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
+other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
+finishing one-piece helmet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]
+
+Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
+needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches.
+
+1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.
+
+17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.
+
+18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.
+
+Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
+and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
+Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
+of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.
+
+Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
+the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
+of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
+have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.
+
+Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
+ankle, thus:
+
+1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
+the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
+10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
+from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.
+
+2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.
+
+3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
+7.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
+directed in 1st row, every 6th row.
+
+For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
+these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
+ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
+forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.
+
+Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
+the middle seam.
+
+Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
+thus:
+
+1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
+around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.
+
+2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
+repeat.
+
+Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.
+
+
+
+
+A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]
+
+Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
+plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
+knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
+for the front or turnover of the hood.
+
+Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
+to run ribbon.
+
+Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
+distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
+trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
+repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
+give a good selvage.
+
+Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
+on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
+the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
+ribs the same.
+
+Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
+Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
+of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
+extreme end of crown.
+
+Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
+about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
+crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
+knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
+lower edge of front.
+
+Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
+tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.
+
+By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
+proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
+admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Crochet
+
+
+The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
+and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
+a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
+slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
+is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.
+
+There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
+thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
+usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
+and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
+much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
+nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
+that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
+second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
+slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
+good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
+fluffy as possible.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]
+
+THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
+the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
+thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
+thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
+continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
+as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without thought. When
+abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.
+
+THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
+the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
+join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
+fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
+more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]
+
+SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
+mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
+the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
+needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
+stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
+back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
+different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]
+
+TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
+thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
+draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
+thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
+abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
+crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
+these stitches take their names.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]
+
+HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
+thread and draw through all three stitches at once.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
+up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
+off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
+of double-treble crochet is d t c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]
+
+TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
+hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
+needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
+abbreviation is t t c.
+
+One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
+quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
+quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
+at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
+chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
+short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."
+
+PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
+necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
+directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
+equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
+treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
+3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.
+
+The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
+well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
+catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
+is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
+the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
+given is the best that can be.
+
+
+
+
+Crocheted Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]
+
+One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
+extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
+sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
+Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
+and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
+
+Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
+from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
+
+2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
+chain; repeat across, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
+back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
+
+Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
+until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
+made 4 rows.
+
+In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
+row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
+you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
+front is of the same length as the back.
+
+Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
+other front to correspond.
+
+For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used)
+at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
+treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
+around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
+
+Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
+the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
+widening the same stitches at corners each time.
+
+Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
+Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
+around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
+as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
+and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
+
+For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
+repeat.
+
+The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
+may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
+made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
+loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
+chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
+last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
+stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
+turn.
+
+3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
+cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
+
+The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
+length, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
+in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
+
+Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
+follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
+3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
+2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
+from * to end of row, turn.
+
+4. Same as 2d row.
+
+5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
+treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
+a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
+and 5th rows.
+
+And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
+repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
+repeat. Repeat 2d row.
+
+
+
+
+Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]
+
+For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
+a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
+easily.
+
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
+
+1. Seven doubles in ring.
+
+2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
+
+3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
+you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
+larger crown is desired.
+
+33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
+
+46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
+off the last row neatly.
+
+Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
+stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
+in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
+double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
+will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
+widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
+the cover is closed.
+
+For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
+double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
+or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
+length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
+indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
+"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
+end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
+forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
+through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
+held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
+forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
+or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
+crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
+forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
+the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
+the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
+the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
+of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
+non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
+forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
+up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
+double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
+may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
+
+Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
+completed.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]
+
+Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
+enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
+stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
+trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
+back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
+trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
+chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
+back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.
+
+3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.
+
+Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
+over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
+sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
+will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
+repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
+that.
+
+2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
+row, and treble in treble; repeat.
+
+3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
+trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
+treble; repeat.
+
+Work around the armscye in same way.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Coat Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]
+
+Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
+size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
+crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.
+
+Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
+rib.
+
+3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
+2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
+of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
+loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
+star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
+turn.
+
+Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
+star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
+on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
+rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
+the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
+unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
+other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.
+
+Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
+(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
+directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
+1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.
+
+Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
+single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
+done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
+the opening for armholes.
+
+For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
+around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
+the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
+around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
+neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
+5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.
+
+For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
+on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
+star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
+worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
+with single crochet, as you did the back.
+
+For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
+and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
+a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
+buttonholes.
+
+This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
+with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
+the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
+of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
+smoothly.
+
+Make a chain of 78 stitches.
+
+1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
+twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
+again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
+side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
+row.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
+other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
+thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
+between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.
+
+9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
+continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
+front again.
+
+10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
+in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
+of the jacket.
+
+21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
+corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
+stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
+all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
+back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.
+
+22. Stars all around, of color.
+
+23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
+trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
+star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.
+
+24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
+trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.
+
+25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.
+
+26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
+which to run cord or ribbon.
+
+27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.
+
+28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.
+
+29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.
+
+30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
+between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
+off neatly.
+
+For the sleeve:
+
+1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
+number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
+under the arm.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
+of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.
+
+12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
+stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
+each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
+only 12 stars in the round.
+
+13. With the color, make star in star.
+
+14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.
+
+15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.
+
+This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
+may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
+making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
+make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
+effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
+stitch.
+
+Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
+white and color, in the spaces around the neck.
+
+
+
+
+Girl's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Girl's jacket]
+
+Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
+blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.
+
+1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
+repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.
+
+2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
+repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.
+
+3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
+alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
+blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
+you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
+make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
+double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
+across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
+5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
+front in exactly the same way.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
+blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
+each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
+around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.
+
+2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
+fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.
+
+Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
+the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
+and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.
+
+For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
+jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
+in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
+of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
+and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
+has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.
+
+For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
+3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
+from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
+blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
+make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
+match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
+chain-loops.
+
+For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
+border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
+of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
+chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
+blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
+consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
+upper edge of jacket-border.
+
+Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
+(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
+yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
+lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
+used to draw in the neck.
+
+Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
+made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
+Saxony for a baby.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
+silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
+of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
+
+Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
+up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
+work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).
+
+2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
+treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
+repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
+end where you began.
+
+3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
+over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
+to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
+on each cross and 1 between.
+
+4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
+
+5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
+crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
+plain.
+
+6. Forty-eight crosses.
+
+7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
+plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
+
+8. Fifty-eight crosses.
+
+9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
+miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
+
+10. Thirty-six crosses.
+
+11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
+crosses at center of back.
+
+12. Forty crosses.
+
+13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
+
+14. Forty-two crosses.
+
+15. Like 13th row.
+
+16. Forty-four crosses.
+
+17. Like 13th row.
+
+18. Forty-six crosses.
+
+19. Plain, without widening in the back.
+
+Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
+foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
+1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
+jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
+this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
+stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
+making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
+between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
+2, and repeat.
+
+For the sleeves:
+
+1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
+
+2. Fourteen crosses.
+
+3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
+
+4. Fifteen crosses.
+
+5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
+
+6. Sixteen crosses.
+
+7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
+
+8. Seventeen crosses.
+
+9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
+
+Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
+Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
+remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
+on top.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Shoes in Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]
+
+These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
+delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
+the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
+coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
+directions.
+
+Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
+in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
+
+2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
+within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
+stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
+the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
+from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
+
+5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
+with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
+with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
+
+6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
+widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
+
+7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
+side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
+
+8. Same as 7th row.
+
+9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
+3d of 4 chain.
+
+10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
+from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
+missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
+
+11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
+directed.
+
+13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
+then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
+
+14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
+middle and at end.
+
+15, 17. Like 13th row.
+
+16, 18. Like 14th row.
+
+19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
+the sides.
+
+20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.
+
+21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d
+row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
+1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
+turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
+a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
+end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
+double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
+turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
+side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
+row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
+double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
+with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
+to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
+double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
+double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
+rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
+with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
+buttonholes added.
+
+For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
+double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
+a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
+the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
+
+
+
+
+Ribbed House-Slippers
+
+
+[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]
+
+Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
+Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
+in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
+in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
+rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
+chain 1, turn.
+
+3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
+row.
+
+6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
+
+7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
+
+Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
+as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
+doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
+
+For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
+double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
+the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
+neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
+
+Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
+Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
+(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
+chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
+join to 5th of 10 chain.
+
+For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
+pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
+three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
+make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
+entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
+shade as the yarn.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]
+
+A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
+scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
+pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
+white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
+belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
+in the above paragraph.]
+
+Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
+stitch to form a rib, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
+11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
+doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
+working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
+back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
+
+For the upper part of leg:
+
+1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
+chain.
+
+2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
+stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
+loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
+loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
+before and repeat around.
+
+3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
+pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
+before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
+off, and repeat.
+
+4. Like 3d row, with blue.
+
+5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
+
+7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
+
+8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
+
+9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
+stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
+instep.
+
+2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
+rib.
+
+3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
+
+5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
+
+7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
+single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
+ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]
+
+NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
+
+2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
+3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
+
+13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
+next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
+around, join.
+
+14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
+securely.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
+loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
+draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
+are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
+the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
+afghan-stitch.
+
+Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
+stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
+each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
+5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
+Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.
+
+
+
+
+A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]
+
+One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
+a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
+with a chain of 60 stitches.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
+treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
+repeat.
+
+4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
+
+5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
+
+On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
+which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
+length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
+sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
+size.
+
+For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
+row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
+also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
+
+Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
+yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
+stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
+front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
+
+Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
+to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
+buttonholes.
+
+Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
+
+1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
+through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
+chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
+to top of 1st.
+
+2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
+2; join.
+
+3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
+or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
+
+4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
+to keep the shape.
+
+Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
+
+For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
+working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
+the right side.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
+through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
+through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
+loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
+back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
+stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
+
+Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
+crocheted cord.
+
+This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
+Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
+to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
+working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
+also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
+bean-stitches in each row.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
+little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
+join.
+
+1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
+through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
+a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
+between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
+
+2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
+stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
+stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
+bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
+
+3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
+with 1 chain between, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
+
+5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
+widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
+bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
+
+11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
+
+14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
+stitch.
+
+15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
+stitch; narrow twice in each row.
+
+20, 21. Double in each double.
+
+22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
+
+23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
+
+28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
+hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
+all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
+This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
+
+For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
+chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
+doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
+until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
+button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
+have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
+needle and sew to center of crown.
+
+This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
+may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
+extra warmth.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]
+
+Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
+to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
+through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
+made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
+as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
+
+2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
+stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
+that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
+
+3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
+
+4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
+rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
+stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
+3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
+
+Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
+entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
+corner of front to prevent drawing.
+
+For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
+chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
+in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
+ribbon.
+
+This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
+stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
+white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
+While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.
+
+Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
+
+1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
+
+2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
+draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
+and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
+
+3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
+needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
+insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
+stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.
+
+4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
+
+5. Plain, that is, without widening.
+
+6. Widen every 3d stitch.
+
+7, 8, 9. Plain.
+
+10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
+other end again.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
+neck.
+
+16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
+pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
+border.
+
+17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
+
+19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
+both veins of stitch.
+
+Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
+top, and ribbon ties.
+
+To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
+until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
+and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
+following the general directions given.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
+easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
+eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
+and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
+Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
+suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
+catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
+
+1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
+insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
+the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
+wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
+
+2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
+needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
+in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
+chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
+other stitch of last round.
+
+3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
+
+4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
+
+Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
+used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
+that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
+five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
+you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
+inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
+head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of
+needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate
+directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the
+articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the
+stitch to use and shows how to make it.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns,
+perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery
+shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will
+furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From
+these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look
+like the pictures.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells
+you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive
+cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical
+home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses
+the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish
+in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and
+fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of
+exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a
+new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers
+are different and practical.
+
+A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name
+and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail;
+or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues.
+You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been
+looking for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT after
+reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your
+subscription and return your money.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
+
+The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
+business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
+the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
+the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
+women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
+vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.
+
+There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
+every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
+of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
+and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
+squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
+than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
+and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
+without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
+to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
+all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
+wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
+drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
+
+~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
+Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
+Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~
+
+Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
+subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
+this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
+one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
+reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
+if necessary.)
+
+    NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
+    lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
+    same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
+    Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
+    and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
+    6397).
+
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting
+and Crochet</h1>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr001-1.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class='center'>
+Published by<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft Publishing Company</span><br />
+Augusta, Maine<br />
+1918<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 172px;">
+<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p>
+<img src="images/illus-hr002-1.jpg" width="172" height="250" alt="Handbook of Crochet" title="" />
+<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p class='center'><i>You can crochet the most fascinating
+things imaginable if you have this</i></p>
+
+<h2>Handbook of Crochet</h2>
+
+<p class='center'>By Emma Chalmers Monroe</p>
+
+<p>This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains
+most valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets
+or wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very
+careful selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate,
+every successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.</p>
+
+<p>It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use of
+crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, Scarf-Ends,
+Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7&times;10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.</p>
+
+<p>Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be
+sent you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 95%;" />
+
+<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting
+and Crochet</h1>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Knitting" id="A_Lesson_in_Knitting"></a>A Lesson in Knitting</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_1"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr003-1.jpg" width="350" height="223" alt="Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (<a href="#knit_fig_1">Figure
+1</a>). There are several methods for this, the following being
+that preferred and generally used by the writer: Leave
+a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches
+you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or
+ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the
+third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across
+the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back
+between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and
+the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses
+the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back,
+or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed
+threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread
+(or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right
+to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop,
+slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. Then proceed
+to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same
+way for the next and following stitches. The whole operation
+is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and
+follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master
+the "crossed casting on."</p>
+
+<p>Another method, preferred by many and practically the
+same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is
+as follows: Loop the thread around the left forefinger,
+holding the spare end between thumb and second finger,
+pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread
+around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the
+latter and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle
+under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it,
+bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will
+really get the crossed loop, and many find this method
+easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or
+any article where much wear comes.</p>
+
+<p>Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many
+like this method when there are many stitches. Twist a
+loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end
+of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread
+to hold it in place&mdash;or, if preferred, simply tie
+a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread
+around point of right needle and draw through the loop,
+bringing the right needle again in front of left. Thus far,
+the process is quite like that of plain knitting. Keeping the
+right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the
+stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and
+putting the point through the loop from front to back,
+leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the
+loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred,
+so that all are kept on the needle. A little practise
+will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_2"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-1.jpg" width="350" height="211" alt="Figure 2. Knitting Plain" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 2. Knitting Plain</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The plain knitting (<a href="#knit_fig_2">Figure 2</a>), is
+done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the
+right needle through the front of left
+needle from left to right, the right
+needle passing behind the left;
+carry the thread around point
+of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw
+the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new
+stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing
+down the point of left needle to facilitate
+this process; repeat until all
+the stitches are knitted off and the
+row is complete. Where there are
+edges to be joined, as in knitting back
+and fronts of a sweater, it is a good
+plan to slip the first stitch of each
+row.</p>
+
+<p>Right here a suggestion about the
+method of holding the thread may be
+of value: By the first method the
+thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and
+third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close
+to the work; it is this finger which
+passes the thread over point of right
+needle for the new stitch. By
+another method the thread is carried
+over the left forefinger, under second
+and third and over the little finger,
+exactly as it is held for crocheting:
+insert the right needle through 1st
+stitch on left needle in usual way,
+push it over the thread on left forefinger,
+and draw this back through
+the stitch with the point of right
+needle. Only the needle is held in
+the right hand, and many workers
+claim that the work is much more
+rapidly done.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_3"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-2.jpg" width="350" height="219" alt="Figure 3. Purling" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 3. Purling</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The purl-&nbsp;or seam-stitch (<a href="#knit_fig_3">Figure
+3</a>) is the exact reverse of plain knitting,
+both as to method of work and
+appearance, being in reality the wrong
+side of plain knitting. In the latter
+the thread is kept at the back of
+the work; for purling, bring it to the
+front between the two needles. Put
+the point of right needle through the
+front of 1st stitch on left needle from
+right to left, the right needle being
+thus brought in front of the left; pass
+the thread around the front of right
+needle from right to left and back
+between needles, then push down
+the point and draw the loop backward
+through the stitch, instead of
+forward, as in plain knitting, the
+right needle being thus brought
+behind the left. Slip off the old
+stitch as usual, and take care to
+return the thread to its place at the
+back before beginning to knit plain
+again.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_4"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-3.jpg" width="350" height="199" alt="Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Garter-stitch, so called (<a href="#knit_fig_4">Figure 4</a>)
+is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges,
+one row knit, the next purled. This
+is a stitch much used for sweaters,
+and other knitted garments. If one
+wishes to have the right side appear
+as in plain knitting, the 1st row
+must be knitted plain, the next
+purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain
+knitting, the wrong side purled.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-1.jpg" width="350" height="205" alt="Figure 5. The Double Rib" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 5. The Double Rib</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rib-stitch is alternately plain
+and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double
+rib, (<a href="#knit_fig_5">Figure 5,</a>) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3,
+purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always
+taking care&mdash;unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking&mdash;to
+knit the stitches purled on
+the preceding row, and purl the knitted
+ones. There are a large variety
+of fancy patterns made by combining
+plain knitting and purling, such as
+the basket-stitch and others, of even
+or broken "check."</p>
+
+<p>There are many variations of the
+simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly
+good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from
+right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the
+thread behind the needle, then pass it
+from right to left over the needle and
+draw it through the stitch, allowing
+the latter to slip off as in plain knitting.
+In this stitch the two threads
+of the loop are crossed, instead of
+lying side by side as in plain knitting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-2.jpg" width="350" height="213" alt="Figure 6. Making &quot;Overs&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 6. Making &quot;Overs&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Overs" (<a href="#knit_fig_6">Figure 6</a>) are used in all
+lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To
+make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then
+knit the next stitch plain as usual.
+This brings a loop over the needle,
+which in the next row is to be
+knitted as any stitch, thus increasing
+the number of stitches in the row.
+In case it is not desired to increase
+the stitches, one must narrow, by
+knitting two stitches together, once
+for every "over." If a larger hole is
+wanted, the thread is put twice over
+the needle, and in the following one
+of these loops is knitted, the other
+purled.</p>
+
+<p>To "purl-narrow," or purl two
+together, bring the thread to the front
+as for purling, then to form the
+extra stitch, carry the thread back
+over the needle and to the front again;
+then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit
+them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for
+this.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-3.jpg" width="350" height="220" alt="Figure 7. Binding Off" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 7. Binding Off</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch
+from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next
+stitch, then draw the stitch on
+right needle over the knitted one,
+letting it fall between needles. To
+slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch,
+knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or
+bind off, (<a href="#knit_fig_7">Figure 7,</a>) slip 1st stitch,
+knit next, draw slipped stitch over,
+knit next stitch, draw the previous
+knitted stitch over, and continue,
+taking care that the chain of stitches
+thus cast off be neither too tight nor
+too loose, but just as elastic as the
+remainder of the work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="A_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>A Sleeveless Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr006-1.jpg" width="284" height="450" alt="A Sleeveless Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Sleeveless Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A sleeveless sweater,
+as pretty as it is comfortable,
+requires six skeins of
+Shetland floss and a pair of No.
+5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but
+any preferred color may be
+substituted.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 85 stitches; knit
+in basket-stitch, as follows:</p>
+
+<p>1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat
+across, ending with knit 5.</p>
+
+<p>2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat
+across, ending with purl 5.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat these two rows
+twice, making 6 rows in all;
+then to change the check knit
+7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st,
+repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from
+1st row. Continue until the
+border is five checks deep, or
+30 rows.</p>
+
+<p>Knit across plain and purl
+back for 84 rows; narrow 1
+stitch each side every other
+row, three times, for the armhole,
+leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89
+rows from the border. Knit
+across plain and purl back for
+38 rows; putting these stitches
+on a large safety-pin for convenience,
+knit 31, bind off 17
+stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6
+rows back and forth, or 3 ribs,
+to give the effect of a seam on
+the shoulder. Continue the
+front, knitting across and
+purling back, adding a stitch
+toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for
+38 rows; then add 1 stitch at
+the armhole, and next row
+cast on 8 stitches for underarm.
+Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue
+knitting forward and purling
+back for 85 rows; then
+make the border of 30 rows,
+five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind
+off. Knit the other front to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the stitches around
+armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5,
+purl 5 for 6 rows, making an
+edge of checks; bind off. Pick
+up the stitches on front, to the
+center of back of neck, about
+175 in all, make a row of checks
+to correspond with the arm,
+and bind; work a border in
+the same way on other side of
+front, and sew neatly at back
+of neck, also join the underarm
+seams, taking care to
+match the checks of the
+border perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>For the belt: Cast on 25
+stitches, and proceed as directed
+for the border until you
+have the desired length; the
+belt illustrated is 42 checks
+long. Across one end crochet
+3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other
+end three pearl buttons to
+match. The belt is caught
+along the top in the back, giving
+the short-waisted effect.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>Costume for the Winter-Girl</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr007-1.jpg" width="244" height="450" alt="Costume for the Winter-Girl" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Costume for the Winter-Girl</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark
+rose was used for the model, but any preferred color
+may be substituted), three balls of gray Angora, one pair
+each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a steel
+crochet-hook, No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the
+back 100 stitches (these will measure 20 inches). Knit
+plain, back and forth (which will give you ridges or ribs)
+for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of needle
+every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 stitches
+on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9&frac12; inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3
+times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches
+until the back measures 15&frac12; inches from the waistline.
+Knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches
+for back of neck, and on the other 25 stitches knit one front
+after the following directions, and the other to correspond.</p>
+
+<p>Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch
+toward the front every other row until you have added 6
+stitches; cast on 7 stitches more toward the front, giving 38
+stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch
+toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches have been
+added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making
+60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on
+the 60 stitches for 9&frac12; inches, then increase 1 stitch every
+8th row toward the underarm-&nbsp;or side-seam, until the latter
+is of the same length as that of the back, including the 2
+inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to correspond
+and sew up side-seams.</p>
+
+<p>With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front
+(have an uneven number of stitches on needle), and on another
+spare needle pick up the stitches across the back; on
+another pick up the stitches of front, having the same
+number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch on
+needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which
+will be the corner stitch.</p>
+
+<p>1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front,
+knit 1, * over, narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch,
+over, knit the corner stitch, again repeat from * to next
+corner, over, knit corner stitch, repeat from * until but 1
+stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the
+place of narrowed one.</p>
+
+<p>3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over,
+knit to next corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and
+knit plain to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows
+from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p>In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches
+from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then
+knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13
+stitches apart. In next row cast on 4 stitches over where
+they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for 4 more
+ridges, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Sleeves.&mdash;Cast on 34 stitches (about 7&frac12; inches); knit in
+ridges, casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every
+other row until there are 74 stitches on needle (about 15
+inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of
+needle every 12th row until there are 56 stitches remaining
+on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 inches,
+or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles
+knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.</p>
+
+<p>Collar.&mdash;Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around
+neck of sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not
+bind off. With a spare needle pick up 1 stitch from each
+ridge on each end of
+collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat
+3d and 2d rows alternately
+for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and
+bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Pockets.&mdash;Cast on 28
+stitches; knit in ridges
+for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3
+needles, knit 7 ridges,
+making a buttonhole in
+4th ridge at center of
+pocket, bind off and sew
+the pocket neatly in
+place on the sweater.
+Sew the sleeves in.</p>
+
+<p>Belt.&mdash;With dark rose
+cast on 23 stitches
+(about 4&frac12; inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the
+width of the back at
+waistline, bind off and
+sew in place with two
+buttons at each side.</p>
+
+<p>Buttons.&mdash;With dark
+rose, chain 3, turn; miss
+1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each
+of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in next;
+repeat from * until the
+circle is of a size to cover
+the mold, work 1 row
+without widening, slip
+the mold in, * work
+around with 1 double in
+a stitch, miss 1, repeating
+from last * until
+closed. If preferred, a
+small square may be
+knitted like the body of
+the sweater and used to
+cover mold.</p>
+
+<p>The skating-cap is 23
+inches head-size, and requires
+three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls
+of gray Angora wool and
+4 steel needles No. 8.</p>
+
+<p>Using the Angora wool,
+cast on 136 stitches; knit
+45 on each of 2 needles
+and 46 stitches on the 3d,
+and knit in single rib
+(knit 1, purl 1) in rounds
+for 1&frac12; inches, change to
+the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single
+rib for 1&frac12; inches; change to rose floss and knit in single
+rib until the top measures 14&frac12; inches, then bind off and
+draw together, leaving sufficient opening for the tassel to
+be sewed in.</p>
+
+<p>Tassel.&mdash;Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8
+inches long, tie in the center, fold where tied and tie again
+below. Sew the tassel at top of cap.</p>
+
+<p>Scarf.&mdash;Materials required are four skeins of dark rose
+Shetland floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair
+each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone knitting-needles. With gray
+Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60 stitches, and
+knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit
+7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and
+again knit 7 ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles
+and knit for 50 inches, or length of scarf desired; then, as at
+beginning, knit 7 ridges of Angora, 7 ridges of rose and
+again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Knitted Gloves.&mdash;Materials required are three skeins of
+Shetland floss, and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use
+two threads of the floss at once.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib
+(knit 1, purl 1) for 44
+rounds, or until the wrist
+is as long as desired, then
+knit 16 rounds plain.</p>
+
+<p>61. Knit to within 4
+stitches of end of round,
+widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.</p>
+
+<p>62, 63, 64, 65. Knit
+plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat the last 5
+rounds, increasing 2
+stitches every 5th round
+until you have 10 stitches
+between the two widening
+points, and 58
+stitches on the needles.</p>
+
+<p>To form the thumb,
+knit 7 stitches on each
+of 2 needles and cast on
+4 stitches between the
+widening points, thus
+making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 22 rounds plain.
+* Narrow, knit 1; repeat
+around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *.
+Narrow until the thumb
+is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an
+end to fasten down on
+the wrong side.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the 4 stitches
+cast on at base of thumb,
+making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15
+rounds, then divide the
+stitches as follows: Slip
+24 stitches on one knitting-needle
+for top of
+hand starting from the
+3d cast-on stitch at beginning
+of thumb, and
+the remaining 24 stitches
+for palm of hand on
+another needle.</p>
+
+<p>First Finger: Knit 6
+stitches from top of hand,
+slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin,
+also 18 stitches from
+palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3
+stitches for between
+fingers, knit remaining
+6 from palm of hand,
+making 15 stitches in
+all, on these knit 30
+rounds, and finish off as
+directed for the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast
+on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick
+up 3 stitches cast on at base of first finger, making 19
+stitches on needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to last 2
+stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches picked up,
+narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like
+the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of
+hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick
+up 3 stitches at base of second finger, making 18 stitches in
+all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed for 2d finger, knit 25 more
+rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow off as thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1
+needle, 6 stitches from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches
+at base of 3d finger on 3d needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14
+stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right
+glove in same way to where you divide the stitches for the
+fingers; then remember that the palm of the glove must be
+toward you, the thumb on the right-hand side. So you
+would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit 7
+from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left
+glove.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childrens_Knitted_Sets" id="Childrens_Knitted_Sets"></a>Children's Knitted Sets</h2>
+
+
+<h3>Set No. 1</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr008-1.jpg" width="400" height="333" alt="Set No. 1" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Set No. 1</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Hood.&mdash;Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for
+70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs,
+and bind off evenly. Sew up the edge where you cast on for
+the back of the hood. Fold the border back its width, and
+pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 ribs back of
+it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit
+4, over, narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row
+forms the holes for the cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more
+ribs and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any
+number of stitches, and knitting just half that number of
+ribs.</p>
+
+<p>Scarf.&mdash;Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf);
+knit 14 ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of
+blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue
+with the other end as at first, reversing the order. Knot
+fringe of the two colors in at each end.</p>
+
+<p>Sweater.&mdash;Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or
+double rib) for two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50
+ribs, if you knit back and forth; the model was knitted forward
+and purled back, to give the work the appearance of
+plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches for
+sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other
+sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches
+off on an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on
+the remaining 65 stitches work 12 rows; then cast on 13
+stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows,
+bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the
+other front to correspond, slip all the stitches on one
+needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and
+finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly.</p>
+
+<p>Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve
+and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the
+sleeves and underarm seams and turn back the cuffs.</p>
+
+<p>For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck,
+knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Work around edge of collar and down the front opening
+with double crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with
+cord, ends finished with balls or tassels.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+
+<h3>Set No. 2</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr009-1.jpg" width="331" height="400" alt="Set No. 2" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Set No. 2</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Jacket.&mdash;Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs;
+cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26
+stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43
+stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43
+stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows,
+then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at
+the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then
+bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond
+with the back.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and
+underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet,
+in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the
+jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of
+two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and
+between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket.
+Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and
+balls.</p>
+
+<p>For the Hood.&mdash;Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2
+ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood
+where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet,
+space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around
+front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for
+jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.</p>
+
+<p>The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary
+chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is
+called the "fool's delight" method, although why named
+thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible
+way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is
+wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends
+of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger
+of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls
+through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which
+was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does
+not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand
+through the loop on right forefinger from front to back,
+catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand
+thread&mdash;exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet&mdash;transfer
+the knot (which ties the two ends together)
+to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop
+over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the
+position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the
+same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue
+by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop,
+catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through
+to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the
+knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and
+when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be
+found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles
+requiring a drawstring or cord.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Serviceable_Sweater" id="A_Serviceable_Sweater"></a>A Serviceable Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr010-1.jpg" width="366" height="450" alt="A Serviceable Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Serviceable Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5
+needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes
+or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting,
+it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning
+the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square.
+There should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven
+rows should make an inch in length. If you get less, use
+larger needles, say No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so
+that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or
+widen and still keep the ridge. Cast on any number of
+stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl
+2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All rows are
+the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a
+ridge. When you come to the decreasing later you can tell
+whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching
+the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top
+of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles
+and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge.</p>
+
+<p>13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up
+the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting
+last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110
+rows in all.</p>
+
+<p>111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.</p>
+
+<p>117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.</p>
+
+<p>119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of
+end, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.</p>
+
+<p>123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.</p>
+
+<p>125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.</p>
+
+<p>126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain,
+knit these.</p>
+
+<p>130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>Continue to work until you have completed the 171st
+row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like
+130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle.
+From this point work until you have completed the 183d
+row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows
+by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch.
+You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one
+plain row (the 184th) and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.</p>
+
+<p>13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting
+last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl
+1, knit 10. Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in
+all.</p>
+
+<p>28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches
+remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p>29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual.
+This forms the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at
+equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in
+the 11th row, continuing like left front.</p>
+
+<p>Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then
+work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which
+brings the work to the armhole.</p>
+
+<p>121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual,
+taking care to keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven
+times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side.
+Knit 48 rows in pattern
+on the remaining
+63 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>177, 178. Knit in
+pattern until within 7
+stitches of the end;
+turn, leaving these
+stitches on left-hand
+needle without
+knitting.</p>
+
+<p>179, 180. Knit in
+pattern to within
+13 stitches of the
+end (including the 7
+stitches previously
+left), turn.</p>
+
+<p>181, 182. Knit in
+pattern to within 19
+stitches of end, turn.</p>
+
+<p>183. Knit 4, narrow,
+(knit 5, narrow) twice,
+knit rest plain, to end
+of needle.</p>
+
+<p>184. Knit plain
+entirely across, and
+bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Sleeves. Cast on
+97 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 40, * purl
+2, knit 2, repeat from
+* 3 times, purl 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Slip 1, knit 1, *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat
+from * 4 times, knit
+1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Slip 1, knit 1, *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat
+from * 5 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>4. Slip 1, purl 1, *
+knit 2, purl 2, repeat
+from * 7 times, knit
+1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times,
+knit 3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11
+times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times,
+knit 3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16
+times, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17
+times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until
+but 7 stitches remain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.</p>
+
+<p>14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting
+last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting
+last stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at
+beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain,
+then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows,
+counting from the 15th row.</p>
+
+<p>Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the
+sleeve-stitches as follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times,
+(narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Pockets.&mdash;With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 1, * knit 2,
+purl 2, repeat from *
+across, ending with
+knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>2. Slip 1, * purl 2,
+knit 2, repeat, ending
+with purl 1, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>3. Slip 1, * knit 2,
+purl 2, repeat, ending
+with knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last two
+rows until you have
+32 rows in pattern,
+then knit 10 rows
+plain for top of pocket
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>To make up the
+coat, first press the
+border of fronts;
+stretch into shape,
+pin to an ironing-board,
+cover with a
+damp cloth and press
+with a fairly hot iron
+until the cloth is dry.
+This will prevent the
+coat from drawing up,
+as the ribs are inclined
+to do. For sewing,
+use a blunt-pointed
+needle to
+avoid splitting the
+wool. Sew up the
+side and shoulder-seams,
+taking a stitch
+from each edge and
+keeping the edges perfectly
+even, being careful
+not to draw the
+sewing-yarn so tightly
+as to pucker the seam
+in the least. Sew
+up the sleeves, and
+place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam,
+easing in any fulness there is around the top.
+Place the center of collar at center of back before
+sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the
+ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths
+of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes,
+placing a small pearl button at the back of the
+larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.</p>
+
+<p>This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to
+hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the
+model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very
+"natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.</p>
+
+<p>As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting
+a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to
+fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of
+any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted
+nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. Fasten
+the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Sweater" id="Ladies_Sweater"></a>Ladies' Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr011-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Ladies&#39; Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted,
+and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the body of
+the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model,
+but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is
+done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt.
+With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119
+stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four
+inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow,
+knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. 12 steel needles
+and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt.
+Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1
+stitch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29
+ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34
+stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches
+for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then
+cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1
+stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt
+as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from
+front edge. Having completed the belt&mdash;20 rows of triple
+rib&mdash;change to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch,
+repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong
+side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes
+if these are used.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick
+up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in
+all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle
+every 8th rib, eight times. Change to steel needles and
+knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles,
+* knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join
+the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted,
+cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool,
+knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every
+other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar
+pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing
+1 stitch every other row toward the corner and
+keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other
+side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners.
+The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one
+chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.</p>
+
+<p>Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted&mdash;either
+knitted or crocheted&mdash;and furnished with a loop
+sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.</p>
+
+<p>For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry
+the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch
+of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in
+each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib;
+then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle
+which will cover the button-mold&mdash;5 rounds in all were required
+for top of buttons used on model, work around without
+widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in
+next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred,
+knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and
+fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30
+stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely
+beneath the button.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves" id="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves"></a>Ladies' Knitted Gloves
+with Fancy Backs</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr012-1.jpg" width="268" height="400" alt="Ladies&#39; Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or
+worsted. Cast on 57 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over,
+narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.</p>
+
+<p>2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 4th row.</p>
+
+<p>6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over,
+narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate
+needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then
+knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed
+every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length.
+Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork
+stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.</p>
+
+<p>Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are
+right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so
+that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand
+glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the
+right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit
+3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the
+thumb to 17 stitches. Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle
+cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of
+next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the
+stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these
+on 2 needles and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on
+at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and
+divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take
+them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches
+from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches,
+knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each
+of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of
+each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little
+finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side
+next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit
+once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as
+before.</p>
+
+<p>Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first
+finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little
+finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from
+other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left
+for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time
+around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and
+finish off as directed.</p>
+
+<p>Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit
+around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two
+and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knitted_Slippers_with" id="Knitted_Slippers_with"></a>Knitted Slippers with
+Ermine Trimming</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr012-2.jpg" width="350" height="170" alt="Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown
+yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink
+and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are
+used for the slippers illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size
+steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect
+square of white, then join the color. The square is for the
+toe of slipper.</p>
+
+<p>Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a
+strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and
+join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one
+corner for the toe.</p>
+
+<p>Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand
+corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and
+down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long
+thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other
+row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined
+to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the
+sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The
+strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in
+order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit
+plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go
+around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three
+rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches.
+Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.</p>
+
+<p>These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty
+and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper
+cast on an additional number of stitches for the square,
+which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long
+enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if
+desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following
+the same general directions.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babies_Long_Bootees" id="Babies_Long_Bootees"></a>Babies' Long Bootees</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr013-2.jpg" width="246" height="400" alt="Babies&#39; Long Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Babies&#39; Long Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white,
+and two steel knitting-needles, No. 14, are required
+for these bootees.</p>
+
+<p>With color, cast on 57 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and
+bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end
+of row.</p>
+
+<p>3. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows;
+with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2
+rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white.</p>
+
+<p>With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).</p>
+
+<p>With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows
+in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows
+plain, with color.</p>
+
+<p>With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows;
+this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.</p>
+
+<p>Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit
+2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of
+row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs."</p>
+
+<p>Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit
+15 rows in single rib, completing the leg.</p>
+
+<p>For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join
+in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With
+white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows.
+Repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white
+stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit
+forward and back with color.</p>
+
+<p>For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on
+right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the
+side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other
+side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. Knit back and
+forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and
+back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.</p>
+
+<p>These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as
+well as pretty. The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly,
+so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Knitted_Mittens" id="Childs_Knitted_Mittens"></a>Child's Knitted Mittens</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr013-1.jpg" width="284" height="400" alt="Child&#39;s Knitted Mittens" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Knitted Mittens</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you
+knit tight or loose. No. 17 is a good average size.
+Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired,
+say two inches.</p>
+
+<p>For the pattern, knit as follows:</p>
+
+<p>1. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.</p>
+
+<p>These 4 rows are repeated throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the
+wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it,
+knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in
+pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of
+thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between
+the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the
+thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches
+off on a strong thread.</p>
+
+<p>Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the
+thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened
+for the thumb. Continue knitting the hand to the tip of the
+little finger, then commence narrowing. The manner in
+which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be
+fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch,
+and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and
+knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times
+around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow,
+knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every
+stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten
+on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking,
+since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for
+rough usage. The narrowing of a child's mitten may begin
+with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender,
+an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with
+the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which
+were cast on. When knitting around the first time, narrow
+once each end of the picked-up stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern
+until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off,
+beginning with once in 3 stitches. Draw through the last
+stitches at tip and darn down.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knee-Cap" id="Knee-Cap"></a>Knee-Cap</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-2.jpg" width="275" height="450" alt="Knee-Cap" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Knee-Cap</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic
+twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them
+will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma.
+No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for
+the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired,
+by choosing coarser or finer yarn.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit
+around 30 times in single rib&mdash;that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately.
+You are now ready to begin the gore, which may
+be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or
+other fancy pattern) as in the model.</p>
+
+<p>Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches
+idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but
+42 stitches are left on both idle needles. Narrow at the end
+of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left
+on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches on the selvage at
+each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles,
+and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on
+each of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind
+off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of
+chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch.</p>
+
+<p>To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat
+for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing
+the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled
+stitches of previous rows. This change, made after each
+plain row, gives the woven-&nbsp;or basket-effect, and the pattern
+is a very pretty one for sweaters.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers" id="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers"></a>Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-1.jpg" width="300" height="297" alt="Wristers or Pulse-Warmers" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on
+a cold day, and those described particularly so, as
+they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using
+knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality
+with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for
+a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3
+needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more,
+according to length required. Bind off loosely.</p>
+
+<p>With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top
+to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2
+chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the
+edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.</p>
+
+<p>Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in
+1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth
+until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to
+work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each
+treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used
+for this finish.</p>
+
+<p>A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described
+by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand,
+and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows
+quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair
+of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth,
+until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Motor-Scarf" id="Motor-Scarf"></a>Motor-Scarf</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-3.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="Motor-Scarf" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Motor-Scarf</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred
+colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles
+and cast on 100 stitches with pink.</p>
+
+<p>1, 3. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending
+with knit 3.</p>
+
+<p>5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.</p>
+
+<p>6. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>7, 9. With white, purl.</p>
+
+<p>8, 10. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The
+sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles,
+well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening
+in center of white stripe with 1 double.</p>
+
+<p>Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and
+composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Sport_Scarf" id="Sport_Scarf"></a>Sport Scarf</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr015-1.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="Sport Scarf" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sport Scarf</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a
+body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in
+combination with the brown for stripes. Using No.
+3&frac12; or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color
+and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10
+rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of
+brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times;
+10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of
+brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of
+brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse
+from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for
+first half.</p>
+
+<p>For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and
+knot a strand in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on
+48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting
+will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce
+rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes.
+In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible
+to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.</p>
+
+<p>Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton
+with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be
+chosen.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch" id="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch"></a>Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr015-2.jpg" width="342" height="450" alt="Scarf in Lattice-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as
+many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a
+multiple of 6 with 2 over.</p>
+
+<p>Knit back and forth 6 times.</p>
+
+<p>7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length,
+(drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip
+the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over
+1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting
+1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not
+twisted.</p>
+
+<p>9. 10, 11. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat from 7th row.</p>
+
+<p>Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and
+tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross" id="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross"></a>Knitting for the Red Cross</h2>
+
+<p class='center'>(Official Red Cross Photographs)</p>
+
+<h3>Sleeveless Sweater</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"><a name="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr016-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Sleeveless Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (&frac34; pound),
+fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3
+Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure
+two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches
+for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit
+28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24
+stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches
+for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes.
+Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet
+around armholes.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-3.jpg" width="450" height="134" alt="Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Washcloth</h3>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"><a name="Illustration_Washcloth" id="Illustration_Washcloth"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr016-2.jpg" width="271" height="300" alt="Washcloth" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Washcloth</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red
+Cross needles No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth
+is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape
+to one corner.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Service Sock</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-1.jpg" width="175" height="300" alt="Service Sock" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Service Sock</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn
+for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches
+on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3&frac12;
+inches.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra
+stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at
+back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain
+and purling the seam stitch for four inches.</p>
+
+<p>Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1,
+purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing
+as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing
+for one inch.</p>
+
+<p>For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately,
+for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the
+heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1,
+purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip
+1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit
+9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit
+1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1,
+turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit
+14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down
+side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting
+each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down
+other side of heel; then knit on with these half
+the stitches left at top of heel.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 1 round plain; narrow the
+2d round as follows: On 1st side
+needle knit to within 3 of end,
+narrow, knit 1; knit across front
+needle; on side needle knit 1,
+slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch
+over, and knit to end. Decrease
+in this manner every 2d round
+until there are 15 stitches on each
+side needle, reducing them to correspond
+with the front needle, and
+making 10 narrowings for the
+instep.</p>
+
+<p>Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe
+in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle,
+narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit
+to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1,
+slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat
+last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between
+three times, and after that decrease every row until there
+are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing
+the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>One-Piece Helmet</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-2.jpg" width="257" height="350" alt="One-Piece Helmet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">One-Piece Helmet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn (&frac14; pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for
+front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece
+to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9
+inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles,
+arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning
+of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).</p>
+
+<p>Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36&mdash;36.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches.
+Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22
+stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement
+of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2
+forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1&frac12; inches,
+always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely
+to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2&frac12; inches
+(adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).</p>
+
+<p>Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit
+2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4
+rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows
+plain. Continue in this
+way, narrowing on every
+fifth round and reducing
+number of stitches
+between narrowed stitches
+by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.)
+until you have 28
+stitches left on needles.
+Divide on 2 needles,
+having 14 on 1st needle
+and 14 on the other.</p>
+
+<p>Break off yarn, leaving
+12-inch end. Thread
+into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the
+front and back together
+as follows:</p>
+
+<p>* Pass worsted-needle
+through 1st stitch
+of front knitting-needle
+as if knitting, and slip
+stitch off&mdash;pass through
+2d stitch as if purling&mdash;leave stitch on, pass thread through
+1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass
+thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting,
+leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are
+off the needle.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Muffler</h3>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 255px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr018-1.jpg" width="255" height="400" alt="Muffler" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Muffler</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair
+amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will
+be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and
+knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches
+in length.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr018-2.jpg" width="211" height="350" alt="Hot-Water-Bottle Cover" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red
+Cross needles No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the
+work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for
+9&frac12; inches more, or until entire work measures 13&frac12; inches.
+Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end
+of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind
+off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together.
+Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Helmet Made in Two Parts</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-1.jpg" width="360" height="400" alt="Helmet Made in Two Parts" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Helmet Made in Two Parts</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn (&frac14;
+pound); 1 pair Red
+Cross Needles No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>The helmet is made in
+two parts, which afterward
+are sewed together.</p>
+
+<p><b>Front of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Cast
+on 48 stitches (11
+inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2,
+purl 2 for 35 rows. On the
+next row the opening for
+the face is made as follows:
+Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl
+2, knit 2, knit and bind off
+loosely the next 28 stitches
+and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, purl 2. Run the
+stitches before the opening
+on a spare needle and
+on the stitches at the other
+side of opening knit 2, purl
+2 for 12 rows. The last
+row will end at the opening,
+and at that point cast
+on 28 stitches to offset those
+bound off. Begin at the
+face opening of stitches on
+spare needle and knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. At the
+end of the 12th row continue
+all across to the end
+of other needle, when
+there should be 48 stitches
+on needle as at first.
+Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.</p>
+
+<p><b>Top of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Knit
+2, narrow (knitting 2
+stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow,
+knit 12. Purl the entire
+next row. On the 3d row
+knit 2, narrow, knit 13,
+narrow, knit 13, narrow,
+knit 11. Purl 4th row. On
+the 5th row knit 2, narrow,
+knit 12, narrow, knit 12,
+narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th
+row. Continue to narrow
+in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch
+less between narrowings
+until 9 stitches are left.</p>
+
+<p><b>Back of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Work
+in same manner as for
+front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches
+of upper edges together
+with joining-stitch. Sew
+up the side seams, leaving
+the plain knitting at shoulders
+open.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 168px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-2.jpg" width="168" height="400" alt="Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The thumbless mitt or wristlet
+requires one half hank of
+knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2
+Red Cross needles or No. 11 or
+No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches
+measure one inch. Cast on 48
+stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for
+12 inches; bind off and sew up,
+leaving an opening for the thumb
+two inches in length, three inches
+from one end. The ordinary
+wristlets or pulse-warmers are
+knitted in the same way, 8&frac12;
+inches long, and sewed up with
+no thumb-opening.</p>
+
+<p>Wristlets made in one piece require
+one half hank of yarn,
+and 4 bone needles No. 3, or
+steel needles No. 12. Cast on
+52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20.
+Knit 2, purl 2, for 8
+inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end
+of "Third" needle, turn; knit
+and purl back to end of "First"
+needle, always slipping first
+stitch, turn. Continue knitting
+back and forth for 2 inches.
+From this point continue as
+at first for 4 inches for the hand.
+Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Bed-Sock</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 120px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-3.jpg" width="120" height="400" alt="Bed-sock" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bed-sock</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn
+(&frac14; pound) is
+required, with Red
+Cross needles No.
+2 or steel needles
+No. 11 or 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 48 stitches
+on three needles,
+16 on each. Knit
+plain and loosely
+for 20 inches.
+Decrease every
+other stitch by
+knitting two
+stitches together
+until you have
+12 stitches on
+each of two needles
+opposite each
+other. Break off
+yarn and weave
+stitches together
+as per directions
+for finishing one-piece
+helmet.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Drawers-Leggings" id="Childs_Drawers-Leggings"></a>Child's Drawers-Leggings,
+Knitted</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr020-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Drawers-Leggings, Knitted" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Drawers-Leggings, Knitted</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are six hanks of Germantown
+wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel
+needles, No. 15.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 68 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.</p>
+
+<p>17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches
+forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you
+have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36
+stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work.
+Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34
+ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in
+next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in
+this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50
+stitches remaining on the needle.</p>
+
+<p>Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the
+cable-twist of ankle, thus:</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit
+6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the
+twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle,
+knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8,
+purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9,
+purl 2, knit 7.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the
+twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.</p>
+
+<p>For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back
+8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and
+forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around
+edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire
+row for 4 ridges; bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams
+and join the two by the middle seam.</p>
+
+<p>Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the
+drawstrings, thus:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2;
+repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p>2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten
+in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with
+tassels.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Knitted_Hood_for" id="A_Knitted_Hood_for"></a>A Knitted Hood for
+Miss Dolly</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr020-2.jpg" width="298" height="400" alt="A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74
+stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10
+single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches
+of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover
+of the hood.</p>
+
+<p>Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming
+holes in which to run ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6
+extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in
+order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row
+and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always
+slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good
+selvage.</p>
+
+<p>Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure
+that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting
+the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the
+rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple
+ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle
+during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front,
+narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme
+end of crown.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of
+crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter
+and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue,
+making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs,
+and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of
+front.</p>
+
+<p>Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces
+made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and
+bows of ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the
+crown proportionately larger, these directions will be
+found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a
+hood as wanted.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Crochet" id="A_Lesson_in_Crochet"></a>A Lesson in Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<p>The stitches and terms given herewith are
+such as are in general use, and were
+taught the writer by an English teacher of
+crocheting, herself a professional in the art.
+In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch
+is omitted, and the single is called
+slip-stitch; the double is called single, the
+treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>There are different ways of holding the
+crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and
+many consider one way as good as another
+unless, as is usually the case, one's own
+method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the
+English teacher in question, and are those
+commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the
+right hand very much as you hold a pen when
+writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and
+hold the needle. Hold nothing but the
+latter in the right hand, not allowing the
+fingers of that hand to so much as rest on
+the work. Hold work with thumb and second
+finger of left hand, letting the thread pass
+over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up
+from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These
+instructions are especially good for using
+yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work
+as soft and fluffy as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_1"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-1.jpg" width="400" height="308" alt="Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>The chain.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_1">Figure 1.</a>) Make a loop of
+thread around the needle, take up the
+thread and draw through this loop (that
+is, push the hook under the thread that
+passes over the forefinger, draw it back,
+catching the thread, and pull this through
+the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw
+through this, and so continue until the
+chain is of the length required, tightening
+each loop as drawn through, so that all
+will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without
+thought. When abbreviations are
+used, that for chain is ch.</p>
+
+<p><b>The slip-stitch</b> is properly a close joining
+stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle,
+insert hook through the stitch of work to
+which you wish to join, take up the
+dropped stitch and pull through, thus
+making a close fastening. This stitch is
+sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another
+point, but single crochet is more often employed
+for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_2"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-2.jpg" width="400" height="187" alt="Figure 2. Single Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 2. Single Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Single crochet</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_2">Figure 2</a>, frequently
+called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch)
+is made thus: Having a stitch on
+needle, insert hook in work, take up the
+thread and draw it through the work and
+the stitch on the needle at the same time.
+The abbreviation is s c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_3"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-3.jpg" width="400" height="241" alt="Figure 3. Double Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 3. Double Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Double crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_3">Figure 3</a>). Having
+a stitch on needle, insert hook in work,
+take up thread and draw through, giving you
+two stitches on the needle; take up thread
+and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many
+variations of the double-crochet stitch;
+the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is
+formed by taking up the back horizontal
+loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row.
+A quite different effect is given when the
+hook is inserted under both loops.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_4"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-1.jpg" width="400" height="196" alt="Figure 4. Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 4. Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_4">Figure 4.</a>) Having a
+stitch on the needle, take up the thread as
+if to make a stitch, insert hook in work,
+take up thread and draw through, making
+three stitches or loops on the needle; *
+take up thread and draw through two,
+again and draw through two. The abbreviation
+of treble crochet, is t c. It will be
+noted that the single crochet has one
+"draw," the double two, and the treble three,
+from which these stitches take their names.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-2.jpg" width="400" height="167" alt="Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Half-treble or short-treble crochet.</b>
+Like treble to *; then take up thread and
+draw through all three stitches at once.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-3.jpg" width="400" height="211" alt="Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Double-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_6">Figure 6.</a>)
+Having a stitch on the needle, take up
+the thread twice, or put it twice over
+the needle, insert hook in work, take up
+thread and draw through, making four
+stitches to be worked off; (take up thread
+and draw through two) three times. The
+abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-4.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Triple-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_7">Figure 7.</a>)
+Take up thread three times, insert hook
+in work, take up thread and draw
+through, making five stitches on needle;
+work these off two at a time, as in
+double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.</p>
+
+<p>One sometimes has occasion to use other
+extra-long stitches, such as quadruple
+crochet (over four times before insertion
+of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over
+five times), and so on, which are worked
+off two at a time, exactly as in treble or
+double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch
+corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches
+to a half or short treble, three chain to
+a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain
+for each extra "draw."</p>
+
+<p><b>Parentheses (&nbsp;) and asterisks or stars</b>
+* * are used to prevent the necessity of
+repetition and save space. They indicate
+repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain
+3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times
+is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble
+in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next,
+chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to *
+chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat
+from * twice.</p>
+
+<p>The worker should be careful in the
+selection of a hook. It should be well
+made and smooth, and of a size to
+carry the wool smoothly, without catching
+in and roughening it. If too
+large, on the other hand, the work is
+apt to be sleazy. Needles that have
+been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of
+crochet-needles were numbered in the
+same way the size might be easily
+designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers
+for the same sizes, hence the rule given
+is the best that can be.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Crocheted_Jacket" id="Crocheted_Jacket"></a>Crocheted Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 207px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr023-1.jpg" width="207" height="450" alt="Crochet Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Crochet Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One color or two may be used for making this pretty
+jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable
+for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced
+during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown
+will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for
+the body and two of white for the border, if made in two
+colors.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double
+in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double
+under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches
+long, for the back, bringing the
+work to the shoulder.</p>
+
+<p>Now work back and forth for
+one shoulder and front, repeating
+2d row until you have made 9
+doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat
+until you have made 4 rows.</p>
+
+<p>In the next row widen by making
+2 doubles, 1 chain between,
+in center of row, finishing row as
+usual; widen in the center of
+every 8th row until you have 15
+doubles in the row, then continue
+without widening until the
+front is of the same length as
+the back.</p>
+
+<p>Leave 8 doubles for back of
+neck and on the remaining 9
+doubles work the other front to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Commence
+(with the border-color, if two
+colors are used) at corner of
+left front, make a treble under
+1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble),
+* chain 1, a treble under next 1
+chain; repeat from * all around,
+putting 2 trebles with 1 chain
+between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders
+at the neck to shape the collar.</p>
+
+<p>Make another row in the same
+way, then work in seed-stitch as
+you did the body of the jacket
+(a double under 1 chain, chain
+1) for 8 rows, widening the
+same stitches at corners each
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Fold the garment at the
+shoulders, bringing fronts and
+back together. Commencing
+in 10th chain from bottom of
+front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a
+double under each chain. Work
+from underarm around the
+armscye until the sleeve is 12
+inches in length, or as long as
+desired, then make the 2 rows
+of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7
+rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.</p>
+
+<p>For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3
+for a picot; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other
+fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may
+be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a
+chain of an even number of stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch,
+over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop
+through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a
+double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same
+stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch,
+over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through
+all the loops on needle, and
+repeat from *; turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. A double in 1st space,
+double around the thread between
+4 chain and cluster; repeat,
+ending with a double in
+top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and
+3d rows for the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The bird's-eye-stitch is
+simple and pleasing: Having
+a chain of desired length, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each
+stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in double, taking
+front loop of stitch in last row,
+a double in next double, taking
+back loop; repeat to end, and
+repeat 2d row.</p>
+
+<p>Still another pretty stitch,
+easily adjusted to any garment,
+is as follows: Chain a
+number of stitches divisible by
+3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each
+remaining stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each
+double of last row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 1, a double in
+each of 2 doubles, * wool
+over, insert hook in 3d stitch
+of 1st row, take up wool and
+draw through, (over, draw
+through 2 stitches) twice,
+miss 1, a double in each of
+next 2 doubles; repeat from
+* to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 2d row.</p>
+
+<p>5. Chain 1, a double in
+each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool
+over and make a treble as
+before, inserting the hook
+under the treble of 3d row,
+miss 1, a double in each of 2
+stitches; repeat from * to end,
+turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.</p>
+
+<p>And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in
+next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in
+last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Tam-o-Shanter" id="Tam-o-Shanter"></a>Tam-o'-Shanter
+in Double Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr024-1.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="Tam-o&#39;-Shanter in Double Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Tam-o&#39;-Shanter in Double Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted
+and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a
+hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Seven doubles in ring.</p>
+
+<p>2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings
+each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section&mdash;between
+widenings&mdash;or more, if a larger crown is desired.</p>
+
+<p>33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>36 to 45. A double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each
+stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool:
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain
+make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working
+in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch,
+2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a
+circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then
+work once around without widening, slip in the mold, *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.</p>
+
+<p>For the edge of the button and the cord around top of
+band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary
+chain filled with double crochet, or&mdash;better still&mdash;the cord
+may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight"
+method&mdash;which seems a very sensible method, indeed:
+Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the
+cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with
+a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than
+anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the
+yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between
+thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right),
+with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the
+same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the
+forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on
+right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw
+through the non-pulling or left-hand thread&mdash;exactly as
+you would make a chain-stitch in crochet&mdash;transfer the
+knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger
+of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and
+draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through
+the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn
+and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in
+the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand
+through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling
+thread and drawing it through to form the new
+loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left
+hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning.
+This is really a sort of double chain, and when
+one has learned to make it evenly and well&mdash;as may be
+done with a little practise&mdash;it will be found superior for
+bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring
+or a cord.</p>
+
+<p>Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band,
+and the cap is completed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket" id="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket"></a>Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket
+or Hug-Me-Tight</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr024-2.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="Ladies&#39; Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color,
+with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly.
+Commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell
+of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen
+for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including
+the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a
+shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following
+to the end, turn. Work always in back vein of stitch to
+produce the ribbed or striped effect.</p>
+
+<p>3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for
+joining.</p>
+
+<p>Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26
+stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of
+the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches,
+taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65
+stitches for armscye.</p>
+
+<p>For the border:</p>
+
+<p>1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next,
+miss 2; repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of
+1st shell, and join to that.</p>
+
+<p>2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell
+in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double
+between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell,
+a double in single treble; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Work around the armscye in same way.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Coat_Sweater" id="Childs_Coat_Sweater"></a>Child's Coat Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr025-1.jpg" width="400" height="340" alt="Child&#39;s Coat Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Coat Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired,
+and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to
+carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the
+length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in each double, working in back vein of
+stitch to form a rib.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3,
+draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting
+from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up
+wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last
+perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through
+each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops,
+chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Make another rib of doubles by working across twice,
+then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4
+rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a
+rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches
+each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool
+securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the
+2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib
+and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed
+with the row.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the
+1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in
+star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of
+stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the
+top or neck-end each time.</p>
+
+<p>Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of
+the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop
+of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible.
+Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for
+armholes.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a
+double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts,
+bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in
+each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border;
+then work around the bottom and across the front border.
+The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are
+made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat,
+making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each
+stitch of 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work
+a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat
+until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking
+care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side
+always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single
+crochet, as you did the back.</p>
+
+<p>For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1
+double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into
+the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to
+the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.</p>
+
+<p>This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired
+size by starting with a longer chain and making more
+rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The
+combination of stitches is a most attractive one.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Jacket" id="Childs_Jacket"></a>Child's Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr025-2.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="Child&#39;s Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins of cream-white
+Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone
+hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 78 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9
+stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and
+fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to
+have all stars made on the right side. Or, one can work
+back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you
+widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center.
+Keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing
+the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d
+and 4th and 5th widenings.</p>
+
+<p>9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st
+star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain
+22, and make 8 stars across front again.</p>
+
+<p>10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain
+under each arm.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row,
+widening only in center of back every other row, as at
+first. This completes the body of the jacket.</p>
+
+<p>21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool
+at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the
+front. At the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order
+to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around
+to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of
+border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.</p>
+
+<p>22. Stars all around, of color.</p>
+
+<p>23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain
+3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around,
+with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the
+work lie smoothly.</p>
+
+<p>24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3,
+and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with
+4 at corners.</p>
+
+<p>25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.</p>
+
+<p>26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated
+by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.</p>
+
+<p>28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of
+last row.</p>
+
+<p>29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the
+collar.</p>
+
+<p>30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in
+space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket,
+collar and all; fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain,
+make the required number of stars (not
+widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the
+chain under the arm.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st
+row, making star over star of previous row,
+and joining underneath the arm.</p>
+
+<p>12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch,
+only omit taking the stitch under the back
+loop of star in last row, and take a loop
+through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus
+drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12
+stars in the round.</p>
+
+<p>13. With the color, make star in star.</p>
+
+<p>14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye
+of each star.</p>
+
+<p>15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th
+rows of border.</p>
+
+<p>This makes a dainty, soft little garment.
+If one likes, treble stitch may be alternated
+with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is,
+after making a row of stars, instead of breaking
+the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles
+across, or the trebles may be crossed to give
+a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d
+stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels
+made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Girls_Jacket" id="Girls_Jacket"></a>Girl's Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr026-1.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="Girl&#39;s jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Girl&#39;s jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown
+yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of
+52 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1
+double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops
+in all, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in
+next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4
+trebles, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double
+under next; repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of
+blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the
+width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for
+each front. Work same as 3d row until you have made
+4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in
+next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain
+4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2,
+chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across.
+The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20
+rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of
+back. Make the other front in exactly the same way.</p>
+
+<p>For the border:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5
+blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom,
+putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up
+over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite
+corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.</p>
+
+<p>2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of
+loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of
+3 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of
+jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners
+to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of
+loops in blue.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn
+at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve&mdash;9
+blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten
+to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray),
+making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat
+around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to
+required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending
+with the row of loops.</p>
+
+<p>For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in
+8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work
+around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn,
+make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. Fasten the blue
+yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a
+row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue
+to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks
+and 3 of blue chain-loops.</p>
+
+<p>For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st
+block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same
+place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks,
+along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between,
+2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks.
+Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under
+each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at
+beginning and end of each row to upper edge of
+jacket-border.</p>
+
+<p>Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double
+between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place)
+twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this
+to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter
+chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little
+bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw
+in the neck.</p>
+
+<p>Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The
+jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult,
+and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babies_Jacket" id="Babies_Jacket"></a>Babies' Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr026-2.jpg" width="400" height="291" alt="Babies&#39; Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Babies&#39; Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins of Saxony
+yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or
+crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1
+ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each
+of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an
+inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be
+done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).</p>
+
+<p>2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles
+in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened
+in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all;
+break thread and again join in at the end where you began.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over
+next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again
+21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles
+over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross
+and 1 between.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.</p>
+
+<p>5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross).
+24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24
+over next 4, 21 plain.</p>
+
+<p>6. Forty-eight crosses.</p>
+
+<p>7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain,
+(12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12
+plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.</p>
+
+<p>8. Fifty-eight crosses.</p>
+
+<p>9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over
+next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Thirty-six crosses.</p>
+
+<p>11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6
+extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.</p>
+
+<p>12. Forty crosses.</p>
+
+<p>13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.</p>
+
+<p>14. Forty-two crosses.</p>
+
+<p>15. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>16. Forty-four crosses.</p>
+
+<p>17. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>18. Forty-six crosses.</p>
+
+<p>19. Plain, without widening in the back.</p>
+
+<p>Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening
+in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble
+in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make
+a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra
+crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a
+row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles
+in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with
+the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of
+shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2,
+double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeves:</p>
+
+<p>1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36
+over the 12 crosses.</p>
+
+<p>2. Fourteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.</p>
+
+<p>4. Fifteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>6. Sixteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>8. Seventeen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the
+body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon
+in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th
+row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet" id="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet"></a>Baby's Shoes in Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr027-1.jpg" width="350" height="261" alt="Baby&#39;s Shoes in Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Baby&#39;s Shoes in Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or
+silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very
+firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair
+was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material
+will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.</p>
+
+<p>Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in
+end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in
+last, join.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double
+down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next,
+1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each
+down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1
+in next, and 3 in next, join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in
+each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in
+each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in
+each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3,
+2 in middle stitch of heel, join.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between
+widenings.</p>
+
+<p>5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat,
+making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings
+of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back
+of heel.</p>
+
+<p>6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2
+doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the
+middle of heel.</p>
+
+<p>7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as
+usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle
+of heel; join.</p>
+
+<p>8. Same as 7th row.</p>
+
+<p>9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat
+around, join to 3d of 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow
+11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through
+2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of
+toe, join.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and
+narrowing as directed.</p>
+
+<p>13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing
+on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp,
+narrowing at the end, turn.</p>
+
+<p>14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing
+in the middle and at end.</p>
+
+<p>15, 17. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>16, 18. Like 14th row.</p>
+
+<p>19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle
+of vamp and on the sides.</p>
+
+<p>20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in
+each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side
+of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in
+10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in
+next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9
+doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1
+in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2
+at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next
+double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double,
+with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each
+double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more
+rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then
+chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work
+back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles
+in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in
+next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain
+1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14
+stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double
+in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double
+in double around to the other side. Continue thus until
+you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a
+buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe
+may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes
+added.</p>
+
+<p>For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2
+doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double
+in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of
+requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching
+the position of the buttonholes.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ribbed_House-Slippers" id="Ribbed_House-Slippers"></a>Ribbed House-Slippers</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr028-2.jpg" width="450" height="252" alt="Ribbed House-slipper" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ribbed House-slipper</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate
+twist. Commencing at the toe, make a chain of
+11 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8
+stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9
+stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where
+the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of
+stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10
+doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each
+side of center, each row.</p>
+
+<p>6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the
+vamp is as deep as desired. If preferred, the widening may
+be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the
+other, alternately, of the widening doubles.</p>
+
+<p>For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain
+1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue
+until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to
+extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on
+opposite side of vamp.</p>
+
+<p>Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the
+elastic, thus: Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5
+ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1,
+a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from *
+around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of
+10 chain.</p>
+
+<p>For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in
+work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch,
+pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always
+taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom
+of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely
+covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for
+instep of the same shade as the yarn.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babys_Bootees" id="Babys_Bootees"></a>Baby's Bootees</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr028-1.jpg" width="289" height="350" alt="No. 1. Baby&#39;s Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 1. Baby&#39;s Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby,
+and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma.
+Two very pretty styles are given, one in <span title="Original read 'blue'">pink</span> and white, the
+accepted colors for a girlie, the other in <span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> and white&mdash;<span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span>
+being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.</p>
+
+<p>Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11
+stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p><b>No. 1.</b> 1.&mdash;Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10
+stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up
+the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the
+last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10
+stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue,
+making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the
+10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of
+the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>For the upper part of leg:</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining
+to top of 3 chain.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through
+1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and
+draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to
+close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last
+and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat
+around.</p>
+
+<p>3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the
+space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the
+space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as
+before, another in next space, work off, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. Like 3d row, with blue.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.</p>
+
+<p>7. With blue, a double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each
+double, join.</p>
+
+<p>9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch,
+chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat.
+Fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>For the foot:</p>
+
+<p>1. With blue make a double in each stitch
+all around bottom of leg and instep.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in each double, taking up
+both veins of stitch to avoid a rib.</p>
+
+<p>3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.</p>
+
+<p>7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining
+the last row with single crochet on the
+wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or
+with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on
+upper part of leg.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr029-1.jpg" width="328" height="350" alt="No. 2. Baby&#39;s Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 2. Baby&#39;s Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>No. 2.</b> Using the white yarn make a chain of 37
+stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join.
+Repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4
+ribs each of pink and white.</p>
+
+<p>13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row,
+make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming
+a crossed treble; repeat around, join.</p>
+
+<p>14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat.
+Fasten off securely.</p>
+
+<p>For the foot:</p>
+
+<p>1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of
+leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all
+on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, *
+again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off;
+now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until
+you have again the number of loops on needle; continue
+until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a
+double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4
+more rows of doubles, 1 in  each stitch of preceding row, taking
+up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same
+way, joining the last row as before directed. Finish with
+cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Sweater_and_Cap" id="A_Sweater_and_Cap"></a>A Sweater and Cap
+for Dolly</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 385px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr029-2.jpg" width="385" height="400" alt="Sweater and Cap for Dolly" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sweater and Cap for Dolly</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for
+two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool
+easily. Commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row
+(chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to
+end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. A treble and a double taken between treble and
+double of last row; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1
+for 1st double).</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over
+the shoulder.</p>
+
+<p>On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and
+again the 2d row which completes one front. Work in the
+same way on the other half of length, which brings you to
+the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. Make
+the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the
+armscye of desired size.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat
+from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice,
+and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye.</p>
+
+<p>Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet
+with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to
+avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn
+smoothly. After working 2 rows of left front make the
+buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.</p>
+
+<p>Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d
+stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl
+buttons to match the buttonholes.</p>
+
+<p>Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take
+up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw
+through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean,"
+make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row,
+and between each 2; join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row,
+widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.</p>
+
+<p>4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as
+necessary in order to keep the shape.</p>
+
+<p>Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes
+the body of cap.</p>
+
+<p>For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the
+blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so
+that it will turn up on the right side.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches
+from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, *
+take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star
+last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of
+last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches;
+repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to
+top of cap by a crocheted cord.</p>
+
+<p>This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By
+using fourfold Germantown the sweater will be large
+enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be
+easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in
+the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap
+may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the
+number of bean-stitches in each row.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch" id="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch"></a>Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr030-2.jpg" width="300" height="198" alt="Child&#39;s Cap in Bean-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Cap in Bean-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are one skein of cream-white
+Shetland floss and a little light-blue Saxony yarn,
+with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook
+in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3
+loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring,
+over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all,
+with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook
+through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through
+all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, a
+bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch;
+repeat around, join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d
+bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th
+bean-stitch.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional
+space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in
+every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in
+10th row.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.</p>
+
+<p>14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a
+double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in
+both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row.</p>
+
+<p>20, 21. Double in each double.</p>
+
+<p>22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.</p>
+
+<p>23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off
+white yarn.</p>
+
+<p>28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop
+in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long
+loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next
+space with a single, and repeat. This makes a small,
+pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.</p>
+
+<p>For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles
+in 2d stitch of chain. Continue around and around without
+joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then
+widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as
+large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2,
+slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight
+over the button until you have about half of space covered;
+then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center
+of crown.</p>
+
+<p>This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three
+years, and may be easily enlarged. The border may be
+turned down over the ears for extra warmth.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr030-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with
+a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying.
+Chain 4 stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of
+chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all
+together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye
+of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back
+part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat
+until you have made 6 stars; join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each
+star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th
+in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of
+preceding row.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.</p>
+
+<p>4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back
+and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and
+fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right
+side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of
+chain, then proceed as usual.</p>
+
+<p>Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a
+row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting
+an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.</p>
+
+<p>For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double
+treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to
+4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the
+rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions,
+and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood
+in Wedge-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr031-1.jpg" width="289" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are one and one-half hanks of
+4-fold Germantown wool, white, or any preferred
+color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. While intended
+for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.</p>
+
+<p>Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool
+over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over,
+draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on
+hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from *
+until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.</p>
+
+<p>3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a
+loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over,
+draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook
+in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next
+space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on
+needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.</p>
+
+<p>4. Widen in every 5th stitch.</p>
+
+<p>5. Plain, that is, without widening.</p>
+
+<p>6. Widen every 3d stitch.</p>
+
+<p>7, 8, 9. Plain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and
+fasten in at other end again.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7
+stitches for back of neck.</p>
+
+<p>16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every
+stitch. It is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the
+Germantown when making the border.</p>
+
+<p>17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck
+of hood.</p>
+
+<p>19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front,
+working in both veins of stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at
+back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.</p>
+
+<p>To make the hood larger you have but to continue
+widening the crown until of proper size, which will make
+the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider.
+Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following
+the general directions given.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Toque_in" id="Childs_Toque_in"></a>Child's Toque in
+Wedge-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr031-2.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="Child&#39;s Toque in Wedge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Toque in Wedge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen
+years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires
+five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors
+may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or
+border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and Germantown
+wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone
+hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool
+easily without catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches
+and join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a
+loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop,
+wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1,
+and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring;
+join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool
+over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in
+same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space,
+draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain
+1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch
+in every other stitch of last round.</p>
+
+<p>3. Widen in every 3d stitch.</p>
+
+<p>4. Widen in every 6th stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Work six times around plain, that is, without widening;
+then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work
+once around, turn the work so that the border will be right
+side out when turned up, and work around five times more.
+Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you
+wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card
+five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end
+to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><img src="images/illus-hr032-1.jpg" width="100" height="111" alt="N" title="" />
+EEDLECRAFT pictures each month new
+and beautiful pieces of needlework&mdash;knitting,
+crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such
+complete and accurate directions and descriptions
+are given that any woman can make
+the articles for herself without further instructions.
+It explains the stitch to use and shows how to make it.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost
+with transfer-patterns, perforated patterns, or stamped goods for
+every piece of embroidery shown. Also many working
+charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions
+in fashions and will furnish you with the best perfect-fitting,
+seam-allowing patterns. From these patterns it is easy
+to make garments for yourself that will look like the pictures.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating
+your home and tells you how to do it at the lowest
+cost. An interesting and instructive cooking-article appears
+each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most
+practical home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made
+expressly for it and uses the best of new type for each issue.
+The paper stock has a high finish in order to bring out clearly
+all the details of the fashion and fancy-work illustrations. The
+beautifully colored covers are of exclusive design&mdash;a very artistic
+border with the center panel showing a new piece of
+needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the
+covers are different and practical.</p>
+
+<p>A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just
+write your name and address on a postcard and you will receive
+a copy by return mail; or, better still, send us 35 cents
+and receive the next twelve issues. You are sure to find
+those very patterns and designs that you have been looking
+for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT
+after reading the first number, tell us so and we will
+cancel your subscription and return your money.</p>
+
+<p class='center'>
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine<br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>How To Secure Your Yarn
+Without Cost</h2>
+
+<p>The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must
+needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so
+imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. It almost seems as if the
+women of America&mdash;all women, rich and poor alike&mdash;were devoting their united efforts
+to one vast universal consecration&mdash;the comfort of our boys over there.</p>
+
+<p>There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every
+woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters,
+stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is&mdash;the tremendously
+high price of worsted yarns. We can all squeeze out a little more time but we can
+none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash
+donations are urgent and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you
+will use without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential to
+your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety.
+You who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked
+the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided</p>
+
+<p><b>An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the
+Regulation Blue, Gray and Khaki which you
+can secure without cost by getting subscriptions
+to Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:</b></p>
+
+<p>Send us only <b>10</b> yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of
+<b>35 cents</b> each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid,
+one one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We reserve the right
+to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.)</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>NOTE&mdash;To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a lady's sweater
+or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the same liberal terms; or if you
+prefer finer yarns we will provide Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions
+a skein (Premium No. 6396), and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a
+skein (Premium No. 6397).</p></div>
+
+
+<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr033-1.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting
+and Crochet</h1>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr001-1.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class='center'>
+Published by<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft Publishing Company</span><br />
+Augusta, Maine<br />
+1918<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 172px;">
+<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p>
+<img src="images/illus-hr002-1.jpg" width="172" height="250" alt="Handbook of Crochet" title="" />
+<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p class='center'><i>You can crochet the most fascinating
+things imaginable if you have this</i></p>
+
+<h2>Handbook of Crochet</h2>
+
+<p class='center'>By Emma Chalmers Monroe</p>
+
+<p>This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains
+most valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets
+or wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very
+careful selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate,
+every successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.</p>
+
+<p>It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use of
+crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, Scarf-Ends,
+Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7&times;10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.</p>
+
+<p>Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be
+sent you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 95%;" />
+
+<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting
+and Crochet</h1>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Knitting" id="A_Lesson_in_Knitting"></a>A Lesson in Knitting</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_1"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr003-1.jpg" width="350" height="223" alt="Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (<a href="#knit_fig_1">Figure
+1</a>). There are several methods for this, the following being
+that preferred and generally used by the writer: Leave
+a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches
+you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or
+ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the
+third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across
+the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back
+between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and
+the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses
+the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back,
+or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed
+threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread
+(or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right
+to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop,
+slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. Then proceed
+to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same
+way for the next and following stitches. The whole operation
+is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and
+follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master
+the "crossed casting on."</p>
+
+<p>Another method, preferred by many and practically the
+same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is
+as follows: Loop the thread around the left forefinger,
+holding the spare end between thumb and second finger,
+pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread
+around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the
+latter and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle
+under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it,
+bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will
+really get the crossed loop, and many find this method
+easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or
+any article where much wear comes.</p>
+
+<p>Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many
+like this method when there are many stitches. Twist a
+loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end
+of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread
+to hold it in place&mdash;or, if preferred, simply tie
+a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread
+around point of right needle and draw through the loop,
+bringing the right needle again in front of left. Thus far,
+the process is quite like that of plain knitting. Keeping the
+right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the
+stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and
+putting the point through the loop from front to back,
+leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the
+loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred,
+so that all are kept on the needle. A little practise
+will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_2"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-1.jpg" width="350" height="211" alt="Figure 2. Knitting Plain" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 2. Knitting Plain</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The plain knitting (<a href="#knit_fig_2">Figure 2</a>), is
+done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the
+right needle through the front of left
+needle from left to right, the right
+needle passing behind the left;
+carry the thread around point
+of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw
+the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new
+stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing
+down the point of left needle to facilitate
+this process; repeat until all
+the stitches are knitted off and the
+row is complete. Where there are
+edges to be joined, as in knitting back
+and fronts of a sweater, it is a good
+plan to slip the first stitch of each
+row.</p>
+
+<p>Right here a suggestion about the
+method of holding the thread may be
+of value: By the first method the
+thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and
+third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close
+to the work; it is this finger which
+passes the thread over point of right
+needle for the new stitch. By
+another method the thread is carried
+over the left forefinger, under second
+and third and over the little finger,
+exactly as it is held for crocheting:
+insert the right needle through 1st
+stitch on left needle in usual way,
+push it over the thread on left forefinger,
+and draw this back through
+the stitch with the point of right
+needle. Only the needle is held in
+the right hand, and many workers
+claim that the work is much more
+rapidly done.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_3"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-2.jpg" width="350" height="219" alt="Figure 3. Purling" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 3. Purling</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The purl-&nbsp;or seam-stitch (<a href="#knit_fig_3">Figure
+3</a>) is the exact reverse of plain knitting,
+both as to method of work and
+appearance, being in reality the wrong
+side of plain knitting. In the latter
+the thread is kept at the back of
+the work; for purling, bring it to the
+front between the two needles. Put
+the point of right needle through the
+front of 1st stitch on left needle from
+right to left, the right needle being
+thus brought in front of the left; pass
+the thread around the front of right
+needle from right to left and back
+between needles, then push down
+the point and draw the loop backward
+through the stitch, instead of
+forward, as in plain knitting, the
+right needle being thus brought
+behind the left. Slip off the old
+stitch as usual, and take care to
+return the thread to its place at the
+back before beginning to knit plain
+again.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_4"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr004-3.jpg" width="350" height="199" alt="Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Garter-stitch, so called (<a href="#knit_fig_4">Figure 4</a>)
+is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges,
+one row knit, the next purled. This
+is a stitch much used for sweaters,
+and other knitted garments. If one
+wishes to have the right side appear
+as in plain knitting, the 1st row
+must be knitted plain, the next
+purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain
+knitting, the wrong side purled.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-1.jpg" width="350" height="205" alt="Figure 5. The Double Rib" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 5. The Double Rib</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rib-stitch is alternately plain
+and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double
+rib, (<a href="#knit_fig_5">Figure 5,</a>) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3,
+purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always
+taking care&mdash;unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking&mdash;to
+knit the stitches purled on
+the preceding row, and purl the knitted
+ones. There are a large variety
+of fancy patterns made by combining
+plain knitting and purling, such as
+the basket-stitch and others, of even
+or broken "check."</p>
+
+<p>There are many variations of the
+simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly
+good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from
+right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the
+thread behind the needle, then pass it
+from right to left over the needle and
+draw it through the stitch, allowing
+the latter to slip off as in plain knitting.
+In this stitch the two threads
+of the loop are crossed, instead of
+lying side by side as in plain knitting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-2.jpg" width="350" height="213" alt="Figure 6. Making &quot;Overs&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 6. Making &quot;Overs&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Overs" (<a href="#knit_fig_6">Figure 6</a>) are used in all
+lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To
+make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then
+knit the next stitch plain as usual.
+This brings a loop over the needle,
+which in the next row is to be
+knitted as any stitch, thus increasing
+the number of stitches in the row.
+In case it is not desired to increase
+the stitches, one must narrow, by
+knitting two stitches together, once
+for every "over." If a larger hole is
+wanted, the thread is put twice over
+the needle, and in the following one
+of these loops is knitted, the other
+purled.</p>
+
+<p>To "purl-narrow," or purl two
+together, bring the thread to the front
+as for purling, then to form the
+extra stitch, carry the thread back
+over the needle and to the front again;
+then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit
+them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for
+this.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr005-3.jpg" width="350" height="220" alt="Figure 7. Binding Off" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 7. Binding Off</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch
+from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next
+stitch, then draw the stitch on
+right needle over the knitted one,
+letting it fall between needles. To
+slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch,
+knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or
+bind off, (<a href="#knit_fig_7">Figure 7,</a>) slip 1st stitch,
+knit next, draw slipped stitch over,
+knit next stitch, draw the previous
+knitted stitch over, and continue,
+taking care that the chain of stitches
+thus cast off be neither too tight nor
+too loose, but just as elastic as the
+remainder of the work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="A_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>A Sleeveless Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr006-1.jpg" width="284" height="450" alt="A Sleeveless Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Sleeveless Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A sleeveless sweater,
+as pretty as it is comfortable,
+requires six skeins of
+Shetland floss and a pair of No.
+5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but
+any preferred color may be
+substituted.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 85 stitches; knit
+in basket-stitch, as follows:</p>
+
+<p>1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat
+across, ending with knit 5.</p>
+
+<p>2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat
+across, ending with purl 5.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat these two rows
+twice, making 6 rows in all;
+then to change the check knit
+7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st,
+repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from
+1st row. Continue until the
+border is five checks deep, or
+30 rows.</p>
+
+<p>Knit across plain and purl
+back for 84 rows; narrow 1
+stitch each side every other
+row, three times, for the armhole,
+leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89
+rows from the border. Knit
+across plain and purl back for
+38 rows; putting these stitches
+on a large safety-pin for convenience,
+knit 31, bind off 17
+stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6
+rows back and forth, or 3 ribs,
+to give the effect of a seam on
+the shoulder. Continue the
+front, knitting across and
+purling back, adding a stitch
+toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for
+38 rows; then add 1 stitch at
+the armhole, and next row
+cast on 8 stitches for underarm.
+Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue
+knitting forward and purling
+back for 85 rows; then
+make the border of 30 rows,
+five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind
+off. Knit the other front to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the stitches around
+armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5,
+purl 5 for 6 rows, making an
+edge of checks; bind off. Pick
+up the stitches on front, to the
+center of back of neck, about
+175 in all, make a row of checks
+to correspond with the arm,
+and bind; work a border in
+the same way on other side of
+front, and sew neatly at back
+of neck, also join the underarm
+seams, taking care to
+match the checks of the
+border perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>For the belt: Cast on 25
+stitches, and proceed as directed
+for the border until you
+have the desired length; the
+belt illustrated is 42 checks
+long. Across one end crochet
+3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other
+end three pearl buttons to
+match. The belt is caught
+along the top in the back, giving
+the short-waisted effect.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>Costume for the Winter-Girl</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr007-1.jpg" width="244" height="450" alt="Costume for the Winter-Girl" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Costume for the Winter-Girl</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark
+rose was used for the model, but any preferred color
+may be substituted), three balls of gray Angora, one pair
+each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a steel
+crochet-hook, No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the
+back 100 stitches (these will measure 20 inches). Knit
+plain, back and forth (which will give you ridges or ribs)
+for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of needle
+every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 stitches
+on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9&frac12; inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3
+times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches
+until the back measures 15&frac12; inches from the waistline.
+Knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches
+for back of neck, and on the other 25 stitches knit one front
+after the following directions, and the other to correspond.</p>
+
+<p>Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch
+toward the front every other row until you have added 6
+stitches; cast on 7 stitches more toward the front, giving 38
+stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch
+toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches have been
+added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making
+60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on
+the 60 stitches for 9&frac12; inches, then increase 1 stitch every
+8th row toward the underarm-&nbsp;or side-seam, until the latter
+is of the same length as that of the back, including the 2
+inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to correspond
+and sew up side-seams.</p>
+
+<p>With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front
+(have an uneven number of stitches on needle), and on another
+spare needle pick up the stitches across the back; on
+another pick up the stitches of front, having the same
+number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch on
+needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which
+will be the corner stitch.</p>
+
+<p>1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front,
+knit 1, * over, narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch,
+over, knit the corner stitch, again repeat from * to next
+corner, over, knit corner stitch, repeat from * until but 1
+stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the
+place of narrowed one.</p>
+
+<p>3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over,
+knit to next corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and
+knit plain to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows
+from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p>In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches
+from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then
+knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13
+stitches apart. In next row cast on 4 stitches over where
+they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for 4 more
+ridges, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Sleeves.&mdash;Cast on 34 stitches (about 7&frac12; inches); knit in
+ridges, casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every
+other row until there are 74 stitches on needle (about 15
+inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of
+needle every 12th row until there are 56 stitches remaining
+on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 inches,
+or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles
+knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.</p>
+
+<p>Collar.&mdash;Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around
+neck of sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not
+bind off. With a spare needle pick up 1 stitch from each
+ridge on each end of
+collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat
+3d and 2d rows alternately
+for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and
+bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Pockets.&mdash;Cast on 28
+stitches; knit in ridges
+for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3
+needles, knit 7 ridges,
+making a buttonhole in
+4th ridge at center of
+pocket, bind off and sew
+the pocket neatly in
+place on the sweater.
+Sew the sleeves in.</p>
+
+<p>Belt.&mdash;With dark rose
+cast on 23 stitches
+(about 4&frac12; inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the
+width of the back at
+waistline, bind off and
+sew in place with two
+buttons at each side.</p>
+
+<p>Buttons.&mdash;With dark
+rose, chain 3, turn; miss
+1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each
+of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in next;
+repeat from * until the
+circle is of a size to cover
+the mold, work 1 row
+without widening, slip
+the mold in, * work
+around with 1 double in
+a stitch, miss 1, repeating
+from last * until
+closed. If preferred, a
+small square may be
+knitted like the body of
+the sweater and used to
+cover mold.</p>
+
+<p>The skating-cap is 23
+inches head-size, and requires
+three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls
+of gray Angora wool and
+4 steel needles No. 8.</p>
+
+<p>Using the Angora wool,
+cast on 136 stitches; knit
+45 on each of 2 needles
+and 46 stitches on the 3d,
+and knit in single rib
+(knit 1, purl 1) in rounds
+for 1&frac12; inches, change to
+the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single
+rib for 1&frac12; inches; change to rose floss and knit in single
+rib until the top measures 14&frac12; inches, then bind off and
+draw together, leaving sufficient opening for the tassel to
+be sewed in.</p>
+
+<p>Tassel.&mdash;Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8
+inches long, tie in the center, fold where tied and tie again
+below. Sew the tassel at top of cap.</p>
+
+<p>Scarf.&mdash;Materials required are four skeins of dark rose
+Shetland floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair
+each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone knitting-needles. With gray
+Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60 stitches, and
+knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit
+7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and
+again knit 7 ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles
+and knit for 50 inches, or length of scarf desired; then, as at
+beginning, knit 7 ridges of Angora, 7 ridges of rose and
+again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Knitted Gloves.&mdash;Materials required are three skeins of
+Shetland floss, and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use
+two threads of the floss at once.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib
+(knit 1, purl 1) for 44
+rounds, or until the wrist
+is as long as desired, then
+knit 16 rounds plain.</p>
+
+<p>61. Knit to within 4
+stitches of end of round,
+widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.</p>
+
+<p>62, 63, 64, 65. Knit
+plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat the last 5
+rounds, increasing 2
+stitches every 5th round
+until you have 10 stitches
+between the two widening
+points, and 58
+stitches on the needles.</p>
+
+<p>To form the thumb,
+knit 7 stitches on each
+of 2 needles and cast on
+4 stitches between the
+widening points, thus
+making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 22 rounds plain.
+* Narrow, knit 1; repeat
+around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *.
+Narrow until the thumb
+is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an
+end to fasten down on
+the wrong side.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the 4 stitches
+cast on at base of thumb,
+making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15
+rounds, then divide the
+stitches as follows: Slip
+24 stitches on one knitting-needle
+for top of
+hand starting from the
+3d cast-on stitch at beginning
+of thumb, and
+the remaining 24 stitches
+for palm of hand on
+another needle.</p>
+
+<p>First Finger: Knit 6
+stitches from top of hand,
+slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin,
+also 18 stitches from
+palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3
+stitches for between
+fingers, knit remaining
+6 from palm of hand,
+making 15 stitches in
+all, on these knit 30
+rounds, and finish off as
+directed for the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast
+on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick
+up 3 stitches cast on at base of first finger, making 19
+stitches on needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to last 2
+stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches picked up,
+narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like
+the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of
+hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick
+up 3 stitches at base of second finger, making 18 stitches in
+all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed for 2d finger, knit 25 more
+rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow off as thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1
+needle, 6 stitches from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches
+at base of 3d finger on 3d needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14
+stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right
+glove in same way to where you divide the stitches for the
+fingers; then remember that the palm of the glove must be
+toward you, the thumb on the right-hand side. So you
+would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit 7
+from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left
+glove.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childrens_Knitted_Sets" id="Childrens_Knitted_Sets"></a>Children's Knitted Sets</h2>
+
+
+<h3>Set No. 1</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr008-1.jpg" width="400" height="333" alt="Set No. 1" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Set No. 1</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Hood.&mdash;Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for
+70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs,
+and bind off evenly. Sew up the edge where you cast on for
+the back of the hood. Fold the border back its width, and
+pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 ribs back of
+it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit
+4, over, narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row
+forms the holes for the cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more
+ribs and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any
+number of stitches, and knitting just half that number of
+ribs.</p>
+
+<p>Scarf.&mdash;Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf);
+knit 14 ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of
+blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue
+with the other end as at first, reversing the order. Knot
+fringe of the two colors in at each end.</p>
+
+<p>Sweater.&mdash;Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or
+double rib) for two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50
+ribs, if you knit back and forth; the model was knitted forward
+and purled back, to give the work the appearance of
+plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches for
+sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other
+sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches
+off on an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on
+the remaining 65 stitches work 12 rows; then cast on 13
+stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows,
+bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the
+other front to correspond, slip all the stitches on one
+needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and
+finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly.</p>
+
+<p>Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve
+and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the
+sleeves and underarm seams and turn back the cuffs.</p>
+
+<p>For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck,
+knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Work around edge of collar and down the front opening
+with double crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with
+cord, ends finished with balls or tassels.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+
+<h3>Set No. 2</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr009-1.jpg" width="331" height="400" alt="Set No. 2" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Set No. 2</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Jacket.&mdash;Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs;
+cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26
+stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43
+stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43
+stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows,
+then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at
+the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then
+bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond
+with the back.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and
+underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet,
+in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the
+jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of
+two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and
+between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket.
+Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and
+balls.</p>
+
+<p>For the Hood.&mdash;Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2
+ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood
+where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet,
+space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around
+front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for
+jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.</p>
+
+<p>The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary
+chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is
+called the "fool's delight" method, although why named
+thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible
+way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is
+wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends
+of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger
+of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls
+through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which
+was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does
+not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand
+through the loop on right forefinger from front to back,
+catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand
+thread&mdash;exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet&mdash;transfer
+the knot (which ties the two ends together)
+to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop
+over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the
+position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the
+same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue
+by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop,
+catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through
+to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the
+knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and
+when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be
+found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles
+requiring a drawstring or cord.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Serviceable_Sweater" id="A_Serviceable_Sweater"></a>A Serviceable Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr010-1.jpg" width="366" height="450" alt="A Serviceable Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Serviceable Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5
+needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes
+or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting,
+it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning
+the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square.
+There should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven
+rows should make an inch in length. If you get less, use
+larger needles, say No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so
+that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or
+widen and still keep the ridge. Cast on any number of
+stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl
+2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All rows are
+the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a
+ridge. When you come to the decreasing later you can tell
+whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching
+the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top
+of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles
+and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge.</p>
+
+<p>13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up
+the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting
+last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110
+rows in all.</p>
+
+<p>111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.</p>
+
+<p>117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.</p>
+
+<p>119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of
+end, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.</p>
+
+<p>123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.</p>
+
+<p>124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.</p>
+
+<p>125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.</p>
+
+<p>126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain,
+knit these.</p>
+
+<p>130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.</p>
+
+<p>Continue to work until you have completed the 171st
+row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like
+130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle.
+From this point work until you have completed the 183d
+row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows
+by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch.
+You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one
+plain row (the 184th) and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.</p>
+
+<p>13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting
+last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl
+1, knit 10. Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in
+all.</p>
+
+<p>28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches
+remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p>29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual.
+This forms the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at
+equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in
+the 11th row, continuing like left front.</p>
+
+<p>Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then
+work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which
+brings the work to the armhole.</p>
+
+<p>121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual,
+taking care to keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven
+times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side.
+Knit 48 rows in pattern
+on the remaining
+63 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>177, 178. Knit in
+pattern until within 7
+stitches of the end;
+turn, leaving these
+stitches on left-hand
+needle without
+knitting.</p>
+
+<p>179, 180. Knit in
+pattern to within
+13 stitches of the
+end (including the 7
+stitches previously
+left), turn.</p>
+
+<p>181, 182. Knit in
+pattern to within 19
+stitches of end, turn.</p>
+
+<p>183. Knit 4, narrow,
+(knit 5, narrow) twice,
+knit rest plain, to end
+of needle.</p>
+
+<p>184. Knit plain
+entirely across, and
+bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Sleeves. Cast on
+97 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 40, * purl
+2, knit 2, repeat from
+* 3 times, purl 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Slip 1, knit 1, *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat
+from * 4 times, knit
+1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Slip 1, knit 1, *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat
+from * 5 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>4. Slip 1, purl 1, *
+knit 2, purl 2, repeat
+from * 7 times, knit
+1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times,
+knit 3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11
+times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times,
+knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times,
+knit 3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16
+times, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17
+times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until
+but 7 stitches remain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.</p>
+
+<p>14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting
+last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting
+last stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at
+beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain,
+then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows,
+counting from the 15th row.</p>
+
+<p>Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the
+sleeve-stitches as follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times,
+(narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Pockets.&mdash;With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 1, * knit 2,
+purl 2, repeat from *
+across, ending with
+knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>2. Slip 1, * purl 2,
+knit 2, repeat, ending
+with purl 1, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>3. Slip 1, * knit 2,
+purl 2, repeat, ending
+with knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last two
+rows until you have
+32 rows in pattern,
+then knit 10 rows
+plain for top of pocket
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>To make up the
+coat, first press the
+border of fronts;
+stretch into shape,
+pin to an ironing-board,
+cover with a
+damp cloth and press
+with a fairly hot iron
+until the cloth is dry.
+This will prevent the
+coat from drawing up,
+as the ribs are inclined
+to do. For sewing,
+use a blunt-pointed
+needle to
+avoid splitting the
+wool. Sew up the
+side and shoulder-seams,
+taking a stitch
+from each edge and
+keeping the edges perfectly
+even, being careful
+not to draw the
+sewing-yarn so tightly
+as to pucker the seam
+in the least. Sew
+up the sleeves, and
+place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam,
+easing in any fulness there is around the top.
+Place the center of collar at center of back before
+sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the
+ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths
+of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes,
+placing a small pearl button at the back of the
+larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.</p>
+
+<p>This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to
+hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the
+model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very
+"natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.</p>
+
+<p>As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting
+a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to
+fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of
+any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted
+nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. Fasten
+the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Sweater" id="Ladies_Sweater"></a>Ladies' Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr011-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Ladies&#39; Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted,
+and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the body of
+the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model,
+but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is
+done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt.
+With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119
+stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four
+inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow,
+knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. 12 steel needles
+and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt.
+Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1
+stitch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29
+ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34
+stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches
+for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then
+cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1
+stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt
+as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from
+front edge. Having completed the belt&mdash;20 rows of triple
+rib&mdash;change to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch,
+repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong
+side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes
+if these are used.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick
+up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in
+all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle
+every 8th rib, eight times. Change to steel needles and
+knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles,
+* knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join
+the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted,
+cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool,
+knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every
+other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar
+pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing
+1 stitch every other row toward the corner and
+keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other
+side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners.
+The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one
+chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.</p>
+
+<p>Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted&mdash;either
+knitted or crocheted&mdash;and furnished with a loop
+sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.</p>
+
+<p>For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry
+the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch
+of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in
+each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib;
+then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle
+which will cover the button-mold&mdash;5 rounds in all were required
+for top of buttons used on model, work around without
+widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in
+next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred,
+knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and
+fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30
+stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely
+beneath the button.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves" id="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves"></a>Ladies' Knitted Gloves
+with Fancy Backs</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr012-1.jpg" width="268" height="400" alt="Ladies&#39; Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or
+worsted. Cast on 57 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over,
+narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.</p>
+
+<p>2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 4th row.</p>
+
+<p>6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over,
+narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate
+needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then
+knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed
+every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length.
+Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork
+stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.</p>
+
+<p>Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are
+right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so
+that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand
+glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the
+right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit
+3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the
+thumb to 17 stitches. Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle
+cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of
+next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the
+stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these
+on 2 needles and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on
+at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and
+divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take
+them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches
+from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches,
+knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each
+of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of
+each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p>First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little
+finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side
+next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit
+once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as
+before.</p>
+
+<p>Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first
+finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little
+finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from
+other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left
+for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time
+around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and
+finish off as directed.</p>
+
+<p>Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit
+around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two
+and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knitted_Slippers_with" id="Knitted_Slippers_with"></a>Knitted Slippers with
+Ermine Trimming</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr012-2.jpg" width="350" height="170" alt="Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown
+yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink
+and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are
+used for the slippers illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size
+steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect
+square of white, then join the color. The square is for the
+toe of slipper.</p>
+
+<p>Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a
+strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and
+join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one
+corner for the toe.</p>
+
+<p>Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand
+corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and
+down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long
+thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other
+row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined
+to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the
+sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The
+strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in
+order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit
+plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go
+around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three
+rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches.
+Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.</p>
+
+<p>These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty
+and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper
+cast on an additional number of stitches for the square,
+which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long
+enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if
+desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following
+the same general directions.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babies_Long_Bootees" id="Babies_Long_Bootees"></a>Babies' Long Bootees</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr013-2.jpg" width="246" height="400" alt="Babies&#39; Long Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Babies&#39; Long Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white,
+and two steel knitting-needles, No. 14, are required
+for these bootees.</p>
+
+<p>With color, cast on 57 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and
+bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end
+of row.</p>
+
+<p>3. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows;
+with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2
+rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white.</p>
+
+<p>With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).</p>
+
+<p>With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows
+in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows
+plain, with color.</p>
+
+<p>With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows;
+this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.</p>
+
+<p>Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit
+2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of
+row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs."</p>
+
+<p>Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit
+15 rows in single rib, completing the leg.</p>
+
+<p>For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join
+in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With
+white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows.
+Repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white
+stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit
+forward and back with color.</p>
+
+<p>For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on
+right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the
+side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other
+side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. Knit back and
+forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and
+back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.</p>
+
+<p>These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as
+well as pretty. The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly,
+so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Knitted_Mittens" id="Childs_Knitted_Mittens"></a>Child's Knitted Mittens</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr013-1.jpg" width="284" height="400" alt="Child&#39;s Knitted Mittens" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Knitted Mittens</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you
+knit tight or loose. No. 17 is a good average size.
+Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired,
+say two inches.</p>
+
+<p>For the pattern, knit as follows:</p>
+
+<p>1. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.</p>
+
+<p>These 4 rows are repeated throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the
+wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it,
+knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in
+pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of
+thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between
+the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the
+thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches
+off on a strong thread.</p>
+
+<p>Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the
+thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened
+for the thumb. Continue knitting the hand to the tip of the
+little finger, then commence narrowing. The manner in
+which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be
+fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch,
+and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and
+knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times
+around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow,
+knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every
+stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten
+on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking,
+since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for
+rough usage. The narrowing of a child's mitten may begin
+with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender,
+an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.</p>
+
+<p>Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with
+the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which
+were cast on. When knitting around the first time, narrow
+once each end of the picked-up stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern
+until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off,
+beginning with once in 3 stitches. Draw through the last
+stitches at tip and darn down.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knee-Cap" id="Knee-Cap"></a>Knee-Cap</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-2.jpg" width="275" height="450" alt="Knee-Cap" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Knee-Cap</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic
+twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them
+will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma.
+No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for
+the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired,
+by choosing coarser or finer yarn.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit
+around 30 times in single rib&mdash;that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately.
+You are now ready to begin the gore, which may
+be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or
+other fancy pattern) as in the model.</p>
+
+<p>Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches
+idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but
+42 stitches are left on both idle needles. Narrow at the end
+of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left
+on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches on the selvage at
+each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles,
+and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on
+each of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind
+off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of
+chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch.</p>
+
+<p>To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat
+for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing
+the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled
+stitches of previous rows. This change, made after each
+plain row, gives the woven-&nbsp;or basket-effect, and the pattern
+is a very pretty one for sweaters.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers" id="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers"></a>Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-1.jpg" width="300" height="297" alt="Wristers or Pulse-Warmers" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on
+a cold day, and those described particularly so, as
+they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using
+knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality
+with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for
+a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3
+needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more,
+according to length required. Bind off loosely.</p>
+
+<p>With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top
+to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2
+chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the
+edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.</p>
+
+<p>Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in
+1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth
+until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to
+work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each
+treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used
+for this finish.</p>
+
+<p>A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described
+by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand,
+and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows
+quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair
+of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth,
+until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Motor-Scarf" id="Motor-Scarf"></a>Motor-Scarf</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr014-3.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="Motor-Scarf" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Motor-Scarf</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred
+colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles
+and cast on 100 stitches with pink.</p>
+
+<p>1, 3. Purl.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending
+with knit 3.</p>
+
+<p>5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.</p>
+
+<p>6. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>7, 9. With white, purl.</p>
+
+<p>8, 10. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The
+sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles,
+well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening
+in center of white stripe with 1 double.</p>
+
+<p>Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and
+composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Sport_Scarf" id="Sport_Scarf"></a>Sport Scarf</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr015-1.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="Sport Scarf" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sport Scarf</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a
+body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in
+combination with the brown for stripes. Using No.
+3&frac12; or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color
+and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10
+rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of
+brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times;
+10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of
+brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of
+brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse
+from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for
+first half.</p>
+
+<p>For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and
+knot a strand in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on
+48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting
+will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce
+rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes.
+In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible
+to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.</p>
+
+<p>Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton
+with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be
+chosen.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch" id="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch"></a>Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr015-2.jpg" width="342" height="450" alt="Scarf in Lattice-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as
+many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a
+multiple of 6 with 2 over.</p>
+
+<p>Knit back and forth 6 times.</p>
+
+<p>7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.</p>
+
+<p>8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length,
+(drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip
+the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over
+1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting
+1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not
+twisted.</p>
+
+<p>9. 10, 11. Knit plain.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat from 7th row.</p>
+
+<p>Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and
+tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross" id="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross"></a>Knitting for the Red Cross</h2>
+
+<p class='center'>(Official Red Cross Photographs)</p>
+
+<h3>Sleeveless Sweater</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"><a name="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr016-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Sleeveless Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (&frac34; pound),
+fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3
+Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure
+two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches
+for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit
+28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24
+stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches
+for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes.
+Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet
+around armholes.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-3.jpg" width="450" height="134" alt="Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Washcloth</h3>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"><a name="Illustration_Washcloth" id="Illustration_Washcloth"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr016-2.jpg" width="271" height="300" alt="Washcloth" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Washcloth</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red
+Cross needles No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth
+is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape
+to one corner.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Service Sock</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-1.jpg" width="175" height="300" alt="Service Sock" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Service Sock</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn
+for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches
+on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3&frac12;
+inches.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra
+stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at
+back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain
+and purling the seam stitch for four inches.</p>
+
+<p>Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1,
+purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing
+as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing
+for one inch.</p>
+
+<p>For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately,
+for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the
+heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1,
+purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip
+1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit
+9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit
+1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1,
+turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit
+14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down
+side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting
+each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down
+other side of heel; then knit on with these half
+the stitches left at top of heel.</p>
+
+<p>Knit 1 round plain; narrow the
+2d round as follows: On 1st side
+needle knit to within 3 of end,
+narrow, knit 1; knit across front
+needle; on side needle knit 1,
+slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch
+over, and knit to end. Decrease
+in this manner every 2d round
+until there are 15 stitches on each
+side needle, reducing them to correspond
+with the front needle, and
+making 10 narrowings for the
+instep.</p>
+
+<p>Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe
+in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle,
+narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit
+to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1,
+slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat
+last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between
+three times, and after that decrease every row until there
+are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing
+the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>One-Piece Helmet</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr017-2.jpg" width="257" height="350" alt="One-Piece Helmet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">One-Piece Helmet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn (&frac14; pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for
+front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece
+to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9
+inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles,
+arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning
+of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).</p>
+
+<p>Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36&mdash;36.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches.
+Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22
+stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement
+of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2
+forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1&frac12; inches,
+always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely
+to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2&frac12; inches
+(adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).</p>
+
+<p>Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit
+2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4
+rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows
+plain. Continue in this
+way, narrowing on every
+fifth round and reducing
+number of stitches
+between narrowed stitches
+by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.)
+until you have 28
+stitches left on needles.
+Divide on 2 needles,
+having 14 on 1st needle
+and 14 on the other.</p>
+
+<p>Break off yarn, leaving
+12-inch end. Thread
+into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the
+front and back together
+as follows:</p>
+
+<p>* Pass worsted-needle
+through 1st stitch
+of front knitting-needle
+as if knitting, and slip
+stitch off&mdash;pass through
+2d stitch as if purling&mdash;leave stitch on, pass thread through
+1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass
+thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting,
+leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are
+off the needle.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Muffler</h3>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 255px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr018-1.jpg" width="255" height="400" alt="Muffler" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Muffler</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair
+amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will
+be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and
+knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches
+in length.</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr018-2.jpg" width="211" height="350" alt="Hot-Water-Bottle Cover" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red
+Cross needles No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the
+work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for
+9&frac12; inches more, or until entire work measures 13&frac12; inches.
+Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end
+of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind
+off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together.
+Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h3>Helmet Made in Two Parts</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-1.jpg" width="360" height="400" alt="Helmet Made in Two Parts" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Helmet Made in Two Parts</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn (&frac14;
+pound); 1 pair Red
+Cross Needles No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>The helmet is made in
+two parts, which afterward
+are sewed together.</p>
+
+<p><b>Front of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Cast
+on 48 stitches (11
+inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2,
+purl 2 for 35 rows. On the
+next row the opening for
+the face is made as follows:
+Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl
+2, knit 2, knit and bind off
+loosely the next 28 stitches
+and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, purl 2. Run the
+stitches before the opening
+on a spare needle and
+on the stitches at the other
+side of opening knit 2, purl
+2 for 12 rows. The last
+row will end at the opening,
+and at that point cast
+on 28 stitches to offset those
+bound off. Begin at the
+face opening of stitches on
+spare needle and knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. At the
+end of the 12th row continue
+all across to the end
+of other needle, when
+there should be 48 stitches
+on needle as at first.
+Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.</p>
+
+<p><b>Top of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Knit
+2, narrow (knitting 2
+stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow,
+knit 12. Purl the entire
+next row. On the 3d row
+knit 2, narrow, knit 13,
+narrow, knit 13, narrow,
+knit 11. Purl 4th row. On
+the 5th row knit 2, narrow,
+knit 12, narrow, knit 12,
+narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th
+row. Continue to narrow
+in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch
+less between narrowings
+until 9 stitches are left.</p>
+
+<p><b>Back of Helmet.</b>&mdash;Work
+in same manner as for
+front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches
+of upper edges together
+with joining-stitch. Sew
+up the side seams, leaving
+the plain knitting at shoulders
+open.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 168px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-2.jpg" width="168" height="400" alt="Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The thumbless mitt or wristlet
+requires one half hank of
+knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2
+Red Cross needles or No. 11 or
+No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches
+measure one inch. Cast on 48
+stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for
+12 inches; bind off and sew up,
+leaving an opening for the thumb
+two inches in length, three inches
+from one end. The ordinary
+wristlets or pulse-warmers are
+knitted in the same way, 8&frac12;
+inches long, and sewed up with
+no thumb-opening.</p>
+
+<p>Wristlets made in one piece require
+one half hank of yarn,
+and 4 bone needles No. 3, or
+steel needles No. 12. Cast on
+52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20.
+Knit 2, purl 2, for 8
+inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end
+of "Third" needle, turn; knit
+and purl back to end of "First"
+needle, always slipping first
+stitch, turn. Continue knitting
+back and forth for 2 inches.
+From this point continue as
+at first for 4 inches for the hand.
+Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<h3>Bed-Sock</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 120px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr019-3.jpg" width="120" height="400" alt="Bed-sock" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bed-sock</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One hank of yarn
+(&frac14; pound) is
+required, with Red
+Cross needles No.
+2 or steel needles
+No. 11 or 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 48 stitches
+on three needles,
+16 on each. Knit
+plain and loosely
+for 20 inches.
+Decrease every
+other stitch by
+knitting two
+stitches together
+until you have
+12 stitches on
+each of two needles
+opposite each
+other. Break off
+yarn and weave
+stitches together
+as per directions
+for finishing one-piece
+helmet.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Drawers-Leggings" id="Childs_Drawers-Leggings"></a>Child's Drawers-Leggings,
+Knitted</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr020-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Drawers-Leggings, Knitted" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Drawers-Leggings, Knitted</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are six hanks of Germantown
+wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel
+needles, No. 15.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 68 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.</p>
+
+<p>17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches
+forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you
+have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36
+stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work.
+Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34
+ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in
+next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in
+this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50
+stitches remaining on the needle.</p>
+
+<p>Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the
+cable-twist of ankle, thus:</p>
+
+<p>1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit
+6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the
+twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle,
+knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8,
+purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9,
+purl 2, knit 7.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the
+twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.</p>
+
+<p>For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back
+8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and
+forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around
+edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire
+row for 4 ridges; bind off.</p>
+
+<p>Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams
+and join the two by the middle seam.</p>
+
+<p>Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the
+drawstrings, thus:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2;
+repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p>2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten
+in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with
+tassels.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Knitted_Hood_for" id="A_Knitted_Hood_for"></a>A Knitted Hood for
+Miss Dolly</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr020-2.jpg" width="298" height="400" alt="A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74
+stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10
+single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches
+of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover
+of the hood.</p>
+
+<p>Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming
+holes in which to run ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6
+extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in
+order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row
+and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always
+slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good
+selvage.</p>
+
+<p>Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure
+that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting
+the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the
+rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple
+ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle
+during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front,
+narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme
+end of crown.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of
+crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter
+and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue,
+making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs,
+and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of
+front.</p>
+
+<p>Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces
+made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and
+bows of ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the
+crown proportionately larger, these directions will be
+found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a
+hood as wanted.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Crochet" id="A_Lesson_in_Crochet"></a>A Lesson in Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<p>The stitches and terms given herewith are
+such as are in general use, and were
+taught the writer by an English teacher of
+crocheting, herself a professional in the art.
+In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch
+is omitted, and the single is called
+slip-stitch; the double is called single, the
+treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>There are different ways of holding the
+crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and
+many consider one way as good as another
+unless, as is usually the case, one's own
+method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the
+English teacher in question, and are those
+commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the
+right hand very much as you hold a pen when
+writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and
+hold the needle. Hold nothing but the
+latter in the right hand, not allowing the
+fingers of that hand to so much as rest on
+the work. Hold work with thumb and second
+finger of left hand, letting the thread pass
+over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up
+from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These
+instructions are especially good for using
+yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work
+as soft and fluffy as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_1"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-1.jpg" width="400" height="308" alt="Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>The chain.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_1">Figure 1.</a>) Make a loop of
+thread around the needle, take up the
+thread and draw through this loop (that
+is, push the hook under the thread that
+passes over the forefinger, draw it back,
+catching the thread, and pull this through
+the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw
+through this, and so continue until the
+chain is of the length required, tightening
+each loop as drawn through, so that all
+will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without
+thought. When abbreviations are
+used, that for chain is ch.</p>
+
+<p><b>The slip-stitch</b> is properly a close joining
+stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle,
+insert hook through the stitch of work to
+which you wish to join, take up the
+dropped stitch and pull through, thus
+making a close fastening. This stitch is
+sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another
+point, but single crochet is more often employed
+for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_2"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-2.jpg" width="400" height="187" alt="Figure 2. Single Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 2. Single Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Single crochet</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_2">Figure 2</a>, frequently
+called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch)
+is made thus: Having a stitch on
+needle, insert hook in work, take up the
+thread and draw it through the work and
+the stitch on the needle at the same time.
+The abbreviation is s c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_3"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr021-3.jpg" width="400" height="241" alt="Figure 3. Double Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 3. Double Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Double crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_3">Figure 3</a>). Having
+a stitch on needle, insert hook in work,
+take up thread and draw through, giving you
+two stitches on the needle; take up thread
+and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many
+variations of the double-crochet stitch;
+the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is
+formed by taking up the back horizontal
+loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row.
+A quite different effect is given when the
+hook is inserted under both loops.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_4"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-1.jpg" width="400" height="196" alt="Figure 4. Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 4. Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_4">Figure 4.</a>) Having a
+stitch on the needle, take up the thread as
+if to make a stitch, insert hook in work,
+take up thread and draw through, making
+three stitches or loops on the needle; *
+take up thread and draw through two,
+again and draw through two. The abbreviation
+of treble crochet, is t c. It will be
+noted that the single crochet has one
+"draw," the double two, and the treble three,
+from which these stitches take their names.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-2.jpg" width="400" height="167" alt="Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Half-treble or short-treble crochet.</b>
+Like treble to *; then take up thread and
+draw through all three stitches at once.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-3.jpg" width="400" height="211" alt="Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Double-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_6">Figure 6.</a>)
+Having a stitch on the needle, take up
+the thread twice, or put it twice over
+the needle, insert hook in work, take up
+thread and draw through, making four
+stitches to be worked off; (take up thread
+and draw through two) three times. The
+abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/illus-hr022-4.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Triple-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_7">Figure 7.</a>)
+Take up thread three times, insert hook
+in work, take up thread and draw
+through, making five stitches on needle;
+work these off two at a time, as in
+double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.</p>
+
+<p>One sometimes has occasion to use other
+extra-long stitches, such as quadruple
+crochet (over four times before insertion
+of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over
+five times), and so on, which are worked
+off two at a time, exactly as in treble or
+double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch
+corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches
+to a half or short treble, three chain to
+a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain
+for each extra "draw."</p>
+
+<p><b>Parentheses (&nbsp;) and asterisks or stars</b>
+* * are used to prevent the necessity of
+repetition and save space. They indicate
+repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain
+3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times
+is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble
+in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next,
+chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to *
+chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat
+from * twice.</p>
+
+<p>The worker should be careful in the
+selection of a hook. It should be well
+made and smooth, and of a size to
+carry the wool smoothly, without catching
+in and roughening it. If too
+large, on the other hand, the work is
+apt to be sleazy. Needles that have
+been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of
+crochet-needles were numbered in the
+same way the size might be easily
+designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers
+for the same sizes, hence the rule given
+is the best that can be.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Crocheted_Jacket" id="Crocheted_Jacket"></a>Crocheted Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 207px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr023-1.jpg" width="207" height="450" alt="Crochet Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Crochet Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One color or two may be used for making this pretty
+jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable
+for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced
+during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown
+will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for
+the body and two of white for the border, if made in two
+colors.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double
+in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double
+under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches
+long, for the back, bringing the
+work to the shoulder.</p>
+
+<p>Now work back and forth for
+one shoulder and front, repeating
+2d row until you have made 9
+doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat
+until you have made 4 rows.</p>
+
+<p>In the next row widen by making
+2 doubles, 1 chain between,
+in center of row, finishing row as
+usual; widen in the center of
+every 8th row until you have 15
+doubles in the row, then continue
+without widening until the
+front is of the same length as
+the back.</p>
+
+<p>Leave 8 doubles for back of
+neck and on the remaining 9
+doubles work the other front to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Commence
+(with the border-color, if two
+colors are used) at corner of
+left front, make a treble under
+1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble),
+* chain 1, a treble under next 1
+chain; repeat from * all around,
+putting 2 trebles with 1 chain
+between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders
+at the neck to shape the collar.</p>
+
+<p>Make another row in the same
+way, then work in seed-stitch as
+you did the body of the jacket
+(a double under 1 chain, chain
+1) for 8 rows, widening the
+same stitches at corners each
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Fold the garment at the
+shoulders, bringing fronts and
+back together. Commencing
+in 10th chain from bottom of
+front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a
+double under each chain. Work
+from underarm around the
+armscye until the sleeve is 12
+inches in length, or as long as
+desired, then make the 2 rows
+of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7
+rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.</p>
+
+<p>For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3
+for a picot; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other
+fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may
+be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a
+chain of an even number of stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch,
+over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop
+through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a
+double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same
+stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch,
+over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through
+all the loops on needle, and
+repeat from *; turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. A double in 1st space,
+double around the thread between
+4 chain and cluster; repeat,
+ending with a double in
+top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and
+3d rows for the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The bird's-eye-stitch is
+simple and pleasing: Having
+a chain of desired length, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each
+stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in double, taking
+front loop of stitch in last row,
+a double in next double, taking
+back loop; repeat to end, and
+repeat 2d row.</p>
+
+<p>Still another pretty stitch,
+easily adjusted to any garment,
+is as follows: Chain a
+number of stitches divisible by
+3, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each
+remaining stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each
+double of last row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 1, a double in
+each of 2 doubles, * wool
+over, insert hook in 3d stitch
+of 1st row, take up wool and
+draw through, (over, draw
+through 2 stitches) twice,
+miss 1, a double in each of
+next 2 doubles; repeat from
+* to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 2d row.</p>
+
+<p>5. Chain 1, a double in
+each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool
+over and make a treble as
+before, inserting the hook
+under the treble of 3d row,
+miss 1, a double in each of 2
+stitches; repeat from * to end,
+turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.</p>
+
+<p>And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in
+next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in
+last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Tam-o-Shanter" id="Tam-o-Shanter"></a>Tam-o'-Shanter
+in Double Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr024-1.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="Tam-o&#39;-Shanter in Double Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Tam-o&#39;-Shanter in Double Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted
+and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a
+hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Seven doubles in ring.</p>
+
+<p>2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings
+each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section&mdash;between
+widenings&mdash;or more, if a larger crown is desired.</p>
+
+<p>33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>36 to 45. A double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each
+stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool:
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain
+make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working
+in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch,
+2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a
+circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then
+work once around without widening, slip in the mold, *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.</p>
+
+<p>For the edge of the button and the cord around top of
+band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary
+chain filled with double crochet, or&mdash;better still&mdash;the cord
+may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight"
+method&mdash;which seems a very sensible method, indeed:
+Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the
+cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with
+a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than
+anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the
+yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between
+thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right),
+with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the
+same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the
+forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on
+right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw
+through the non-pulling or left-hand thread&mdash;exactly as
+you would make a chain-stitch in crochet&mdash;transfer the
+knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger
+of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and
+draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through
+the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn
+and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in
+the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand
+through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling
+thread and drawing it through to form the new
+loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left
+hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning.
+This is really a sort of double chain, and when
+one has learned to make it evenly and well&mdash;as may be
+done with a little practise&mdash;it will be found superior for
+bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring
+or a cord.</p>
+
+<p>Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band,
+and the cap is completed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket" id="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket"></a>Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket
+or Hug-Me-Tight</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr024-2.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="Ladies&#39; Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ladies&#39; Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color,
+with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly.
+Commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell
+of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen
+for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including
+the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a
+shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following
+to the end, turn. Work always in back vein of stitch to
+produce the ribbed or striped effect.</p>
+
+<p>3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for
+joining.</p>
+
+<p>Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26
+stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of
+the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches,
+taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65
+stitches for armscye.</p>
+
+<p>For the border:</p>
+
+<p>1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next,
+miss 2; repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of
+1st shell, and join to that.</p>
+
+<p>2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell
+in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double
+between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell,
+a double in single treble; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Work around the armscye in same way.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Coat_Sweater" id="Childs_Coat_Sweater"></a>Child's Coat Sweater</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr025-1.jpg" width="400" height="340" alt="Child&#39;s Coat Sweater" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Coat Sweater</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired,
+and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to
+carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the
+length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in each double, working in back vein of
+stitch to form a rib.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3,
+draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting
+from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up
+wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last
+perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through
+each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops,
+chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Make another rib of doubles by working across twice,
+then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4
+rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a
+rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches
+each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool
+securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the
+2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib
+and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed
+with the row.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the
+1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in
+star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of
+stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the
+top or neck-end each time.</p>
+
+<p>Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of
+the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop
+of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible.
+Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for
+armholes.</p>
+
+<p>For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a
+double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts,
+bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in
+each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border;
+then work around the bottom and across the front border.
+The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are
+made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat,
+making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each
+stitch of 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work
+a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat
+until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking
+care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side
+always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single
+crochet, as you did the back.</p>
+
+<p>For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1
+double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into
+the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to
+the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.</p>
+
+<p>This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired
+size by starting with a longer chain and making more
+rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The
+combination of stitches is a most attractive one.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Jacket" id="Childs_Jacket"></a>Child's Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr025-2.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="Child&#39;s Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins of cream-white
+Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone
+hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 78 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9
+stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and
+fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to
+have all stars made on the right side. Or, one can work
+back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you
+widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center.
+Keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing
+the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d
+and 4th and 5th widenings.</p>
+
+<p>9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st
+star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain
+22, and make 8 stars across front again.</p>
+
+<p>10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain
+under each arm.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row,
+widening only in center of back every other row, as at
+first. This completes the body of the jacket.</p>
+
+<p>21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool
+at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the
+front. At the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order
+to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around
+to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of
+border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.</p>
+
+<p>22. Stars all around, of color.</p>
+
+<p>23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain
+3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around,
+with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the
+work lie smoothly.</p>
+
+<p>24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3,
+and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with
+4 at corners.</p>
+
+<p>25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.</p>
+
+<p>26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated
+by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.</p>
+
+<p>28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of
+last row.</p>
+
+<p>29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the
+collar.</p>
+
+<p>30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in
+space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket,
+collar and all; fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain,
+make the required number of stars (not
+widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the
+chain under the arm.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st
+row, making star over star of previous row,
+and joining underneath the arm.</p>
+
+<p>12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch,
+only omit taking the stitch under the back
+loop of star in last row, and take a loop
+through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus
+drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12
+stars in the round.</p>
+
+<p>13. With the color, make star in star.</p>
+
+<p>14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye
+of each star.</p>
+
+<p>15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th
+rows of border.</p>
+
+<p>This makes a dainty, soft little garment.
+If one likes, treble stitch may be alternated
+with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is,
+after making a row of stars, instead of breaking
+the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles
+across, or the trebles may be crossed to give
+a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d
+stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels
+made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Girls_Jacket" id="Girls_Jacket"></a>Girl's Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr026-1.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="Girl&#39;s jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Girl&#39;s jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown
+yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of
+52 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1
+double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops
+in all, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in
+next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4
+trebles, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double
+under next; repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of
+blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the
+width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for
+each front. Work same as 3d row until you have made
+4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in
+next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain
+4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2,
+chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across.
+The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20
+rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of
+back. Make the other front in exactly the same way.</p>
+
+<p>For the border:</p>
+
+<p>1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5
+blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom,
+putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up
+over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite
+corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.</p>
+
+<p>2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of
+loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of
+3 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of
+jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners
+to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of
+loops in blue.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn
+at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve&mdash;9
+blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten
+to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray),
+making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat
+around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to
+required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending
+with the row of loops.</p>
+
+<p>For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in
+8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work
+around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn,
+make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. Fasten the blue
+yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a
+row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue
+to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks
+and 3 of blue chain-loops.</p>
+
+<p>For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st
+block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same
+place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks,
+along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between,
+2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks.
+Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under
+each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at
+beginning and end of each row to upper edge of
+jacket-border.</p>
+
+<p>Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double
+between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place)
+twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this
+to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter
+chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little
+bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw
+in the neck.</p>
+
+<p>Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The
+jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult,
+and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babies_Jacket" id="Babies_Jacket"></a>Babies' Jacket</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr026-2.jpg" width="400" height="291" alt="Babies&#39; Jacket" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Babies&#39; Jacket</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are three skeins of Saxony
+yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or
+crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1
+ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each
+of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an
+inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be
+done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).</p>
+
+<p>2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles
+in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened
+in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all;
+break thread and again join in at the end where you began.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over
+next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again
+21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles
+over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross
+and 1 between.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.</p>
+
+<p>5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross).
+24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24
+over next 4, 21 plain.</p>
+
+<p>6. Forty-eight crosses.</p>
+
+<p>7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain,
+(12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12
+plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.</p>
+
+<p>8. Fifty-eight crosses.</p>
+
+<p>9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over
+next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Thirty-six crosses.</p>
+
+<p>11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6
+extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.</p>
+
+<p>12. Forty crosses.</p>
+
+<p>13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.</p>
+
+<p>14. Forty-two crosses.</p>
+
+<p>15. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>16. Forty-four crosses.</p>
+
+<p>17. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>18. Forty-six crosses.</p>
+
+<p>19. Plain, without widening in the back.</p>
+
+<p>Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening
+in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble
+in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make
+a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra
+crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a
+row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles
+in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with
+the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of
+shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2,
+double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeves:</p>
+
+<p>1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36
+over the 12 crosses.</p>
+
+<p>2. Fourteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.</p>
+
+<p>4. Fifteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>6. Sixteen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>8. Seventeen crosses.</p>
+
+<p>9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.</p>
+
+<p>Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the
+body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon
+in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th
+row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet" id="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet"></a>Baby's Shoes in Crochet</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr027-1.jpg" width="350" height="261" alt="Baby&#39;s Shoes in Crochet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Baby&#39;s Shoes in Crochet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or
+silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very
+firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair
+was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material
+will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.</p>
+
+<p>Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in
+end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in
+last, join.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double
+down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next,
+1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each
+down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1
+in next, and 3 in next, join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in
+each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in
+each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in
+each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3,
+2 in middle stitch of heel, join.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between
+widenings.</p>
+
+<p>5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat,
+making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings
+of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back
+of heel.</p>
+
+<p>6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2
+doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the
+middle of heel.</p>
+
+<p>7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as
+usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle
+of heel; join.</p>
+
+<p>8. Same as 7th row.</p>
+
+<p>9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat
+around, join to 3d of 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow
+11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through
+2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of
+toe, join.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and
+narrowing as directed.</p>
+
+<p>13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing
+on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp,
+narrowing at the end, turn.</p>
+
+<p>14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing
+in the middle and at end.</p>
+
+<p>15, 17. Like 13th row.</p>
+
+<p>16, 18. Like 14th row.</p>
+
+<p>19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle
+of vamp and on the sides.</p>
+
+<p>20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in
+each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side
+of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in
+10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in
+next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9
+doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1
+in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2
+at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next
+double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double,
+with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each
+double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more
+rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then
+chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work
+back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles
+in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in
+next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain
+1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14
+stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double
+in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double
+in double around to the other side. Continue thus until
+you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a
+buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe
+may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes
+added.</p>
+
+<p>For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2
+doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double
+in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of
+requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching
+the position of the buttonholes.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Ribbed_House-Slippers" id="Ribbed_House-Slippers"></a>Ribbed House-Slippers</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr028-2.jpg" width="450" height="252" alt="Ribbed House-slipper" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ribbed House-slipper</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate
+twist. Commencing at the toe, make a chain of
+11 stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8
+stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9
+stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where
+the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of
+stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10
+doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each
+side of center, each row.</p>
+
+<p>6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p>7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the
+vamp is as deep as desired. If preferred, the widening may
+be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the
+other, alternately, of the widening doubles.</p>
+
+<p>For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain
+1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue
+until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to
+extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on
+opposite side of vamp.</p>
+
+<p>Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the
+elastic, thus: Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5
+ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1,
+a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from *
+around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of
+10 chain.</p>
+
+<p>For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in
+work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch,
+pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always
+taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom
+of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely
+covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for
+instep of the same shade as the yarn.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Babys_Bootees" id="Babys_Bootees"></a>Baby's Bootees</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr028-1.jpg" width="289" height="350" alt="No. 1. Baby&#39;s Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 1. Baby&#39;s Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby,
+and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma.
+Two very pretty styles are given, one in <span title="Original read 'blue'">pink</span> and white, the
+accepted colors for a girlie, the other in <span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> and white&mdash;<span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span>
+being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.</p>
+
+<p>Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11
+stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p><b>No. 1.</b> 1.&mdash;Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10
+stitches, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up
+the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the
+last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10
+stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue,
+making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the
+10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of
+the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>For the upper part of leg:</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining
+to top of 3 chain.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through
+1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and
+draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to
+close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last
+and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat
+around.</p>
+
+<p>3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the
+space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the
+space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as
+before, another in next space, work off, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. Like 3d row, with blue.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.</p>
+
+<p>7. With blue, a double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each
+double, join.</p>
+
+<p>9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch,
+chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat.
+Fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>For the foot:</p>
+
+<p>1. With blue make a double in each stitch
+all around bottom of leg and instep.</p>
+
+<p>2. A double in each double, taking up
+both veins of stitch to avoid a rib.</p>
+
+<p>3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.</p>
+
+<p>7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining
+the last row with single crochet on the
+wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or
+with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on
+upper part of leg.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr029-1.jpg" width="328" height="350" alt="No. 2. Baby&#39;s Bootees" title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 2. Baby&#39;s Bootees</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>No. 2.</b> Using the white yarn make a chain of 37
+stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.</p>
+
+<p>2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join.
+Repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4
+ribs each of pink and white.</p>
+
+<p>13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row,
+make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming
+a crossed treble; repeat around, join.</p>
+
+<p>14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat.
+Fasten off securely.</p>
+
+<p>For the foot:</p>
+
+<p>1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of
+leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all
+on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, *
+again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off;
+now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until
+you have again the number of loops on needle; continue
+until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a
+double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4
+more rows of doubles, 1 in  each stitch of preceding row, taking
+up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same
+way, joining the last row as before directed. Finish with
+cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="A_Sweater_and_Cap" id="A_Sweater_and_Cap"></a>A Sweater and Cap
+for Dolly</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 385px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr029-2.jpg" width="385" height="400" alt="Sweater and Cap for Dolly" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Sweater and Cap for Dolly</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for
+two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool
+easily. Commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.</p>
+
+<p>2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row
+(chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to
+end of row, turn.</p>
+
+<p>3. A treble and a double taken between treble and
+double of last row; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1
+for 1st double).</p>
+
+<p>5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over
+the shoulder.</p>
+
+<p>On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and
+again the 2d row which completes one front. Work in the
+same way on the other half of length, which brings you to
+the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. Make
+the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the
+armscye of desired size.</p>
+
+<p>For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat
+from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice,
+and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye.</p>
+
+<p>Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet
+with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to
+avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn
+smoothly. After working 2 rows of left front make the
+buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.</p>
+
+<p>Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d
+stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl
+buttons to match the buttonholes.</p>
+
+<p>Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take
+up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw
+through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean,"
+make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st.</p>
+
+<p>2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row,
+and between each 2; join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row,
+widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.</p>
+
+<p>4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as
+necessary in order to keep the shape.</p>
+
+<p>Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes
+the body of cap.</p>
+
+<p>For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the
+blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so
+that it will turn up on the right side.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches
+from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, *
+take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star
+last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of
+last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches;
+repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to
+top of cap by a crocheted cord.</p>
+
+<p>This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By
+using fourfold Germantown the sweater will be large
+enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be
+easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in
+the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap
+may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the
+number of bean-stitches in each row.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch" id="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch"></a>Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr030-2.jpg" width="300" height="198" alt="Child&#39;s Cap in Bean-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Cap in Bean-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are one skein of cream-white
+Shetland floss and a little light-blue Saxony yarn,
+with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook
+in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3
+loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring,
+over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all,
+with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook
+through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through
+all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, a
+bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch;
+repeat around, join.</p>
+
+<p>3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d
+bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join.</p>
+
+<p>4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th
+bean-stitch.</p>
+
+<p>5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional
+space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in
+every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in
+10th row.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.</p>
+
+<p>14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a
+double in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in
+both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row.</p>
+
+<p>20, 21. Double in each double.</p>
+
+<p>22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.</p>
+
+<p>23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off
+white yarn.</p>
+
+<p>28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop
+in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long
+loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next
+space with a single, and repeat. This makes a small,
+pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.</p>
+
+<p>For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles
+in 2d stitch of chain. Continue around and around without
+joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then
+widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as
+large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2,
+slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight
+over the button until you have about half of space covered;
+then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center
+of crown.</p>
+
+<p>This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three
+years, and may be easily enlarged. The border may be
+turned down over the ears for extra warmth.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr030-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with
+a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying.
+Chain 4 stitches, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of
+chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all
+together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye
+of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back
+part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat
+until you have made 6 stars; join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each
+star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th
+in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of
+preceding row.</p>
+
+<p>3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.</p>
+
+<p>4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back
+and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and
+fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right
+side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of
+chain, then proceed as usual.</p>
+
+<p>Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a
+row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting
+an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.</p>
+
+<p>For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double
+treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to
+4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the
+rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.</p>
+
+<p>This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions,
+and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood
+in Wedge-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr031-1.jpg" width="289" height="450" alt="Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Materials required are one and one-half hanks of
+4-fold Germantown wool, white, or any preferred
+color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. While intended
+for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.</p>
+
+<p>Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool
+over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over,
+draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on
+hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from *
+until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.</p>
+
+<p>3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a
+loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over,
+draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook
+in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next
+space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on
+needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.</p>
+
+<p>4. Widen in every 5th stitch.</p>
+
+<p>5. Plain, that is, without widening.</p>
+
+<p>6. Widen every 3d stitch.</p>
+
+<p>7, 8, 9. Plain.</p>
+
+<p>10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and
+fasten in at other end again.</p>
+
+<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7
+stitches for back of neck.</p>
+
+<p>16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every
+stitch. It is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the
+Germantown when making the border.</p>
+
+<p>17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck
+of hood.</p>
+
+<p>19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front,
+working in both veins of stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at
+back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.</p>
+
+<p>To make the hood larger you have but to continue
+widening the crown until of proper size, which will make
+the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider.
+Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following
+the general directions given.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Childs_Toque_in" id="Childs_Toque_in"></a>Child's Toque in
+Wedge-Stitch</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr031-2.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="Child&#39;s Toque in Wedge-Stitch" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Child&#39;s Toque in Wedge-Stitch</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen
+years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires
+five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors
+may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or
+border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and Germantown
+wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone
+hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool
+easily without catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches
+and join.</p>
+
+<p>1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a
+loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop,
+wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1,
+and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring;
+join.</p>
+
+<p>2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool
+over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in
+same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space,
+draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain
+1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch
+in every other stitch of last round.</p>
+
+<p>3. Widen in every 3d stitch.</p>
+
+<p>4. Widen in every 6th stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Work six times around plain, that is, without widening;
+then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work
+once around, turn the work so that the border will be right
+side out when turned up, and work around five times more.
+Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you
+wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card
+five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end
+to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><img src="images/illus-hr032-1.jpg" width="100" height="111" alt="N" title="" />
+EEDLECRAFT pictures each month new
+and beautiful pieces of needlework&mdash;knitting,
+crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such
+complete and accurate directions and descriptions
+are given that any woman can make
+the articles for herself without further instructions.
+It explains the stitch to use and shows how to make it.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost
+with transfer-patterns, perforated patterns, or stamped goods for
+every piece of embroidery shown. Also many working
+charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions
+in fashions and will furnish you with the best perfect-fitting,
+seam-allowing patterns. From these patterns it is easy
+to make garments for yourself that will look like the pictures.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating
+your home and tells you how to do it at the lowest
+cost. An interesting and instructive cooking-article appears
+each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most
+practical home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.</p>
+
+<p>NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made
+expressly for it and uses the best of new type for each issue.
+The paper stock has a high finish in order to bring out clearly
+all the details of the fashion and fancy-work illustrations. The
+beautifully colored covers are of exclusive design&mdash;a very artistic
+border with the center panel showing a new piece of
+needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the
+covers are different and practical.</p>
+
+<p>A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just
+write your name and address on a postcard and you will receive
+a copy by return mail; or, better still, send us 35 cents
+and receive the next twelve issues. You are sure to find
+those very patterns and designs that you have been looking
+for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT
+after reading the first number, tell us so and we will
+cancel your subscription and return your money.</p>
+
+<p class='center'>
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine<br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>How To Secure Your Yarn
+Without Cost</h2>
+
+<p>The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must
+needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so
+imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. It almost seems as if the
+women of America&mdash;all women, rich and poor alike&mdash;were devoting their united efforts
+to one vast universal consecration&mdash;the comfort of our boys over there.</p>
+
+<p>There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every
+woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters,
+stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is&mdash;the tremendously
+high price of worsted yarns. We can all squeeze out a little more time but we can
+none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash
+donations are urgent and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you
+will use without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential to
+your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety.
+You who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked
+the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided</p>
+
+<p><b>An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the
+Regulation Blue, Gray and Khaki which you
+can secure without cost by getting subscriptions
+to Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:</b></p>
+
+<p>Send us only <b>10</b> yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of
+<b>35 cents</b> each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid,
+one one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We reserve the right
+to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.)</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>NOTE&mdash;To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a lady's sweater
+or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the same liberal terms; or if you
+prefer finer yarns we will provide Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions
+a skein (Premium No. 6396), and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a
+skein (Premium No. 6397).</p></div>
+
+
+<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br />
+Augusta&mdash;Maine</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<img src="images/illus-hr033-1.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+       Published by
+Needlecraft Publishing Company
+      Augusta, Maine
+           1918
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]
+
+_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_
+
+Handbook of Crochet
+
+By Emma Chalmers Monroe
+
+This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
+valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
+wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
+selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
+successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.
+
+It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
+of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
+Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.
+
+The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7x10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.
+
+Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
+you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Knitting
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]
+
+The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
+several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
+generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
+for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
+the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
+left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
+the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
+finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
+and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
+a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
+ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
+knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
+up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
+off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
+operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
+carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."
+
+Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
+except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
+thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
+and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
+thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
+and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
+lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
+knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
+method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
+where much wear comes.
+
+Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
+when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
+left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
+crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
+simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
+point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
+needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
+of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
+loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
+front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
+the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
+off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
+needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
+and evenly.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]
+
+The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
+of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
+left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
+facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
+and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
+knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
+first stitch of each row.
+
+Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
+value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
+which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
+By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
+second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
+crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
+usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
+back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
+is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
+more rapidly done.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]
+
+The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
+knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
+wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
+back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
+needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
+on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
+in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
+from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
+and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
+plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
+Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
+its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]
+
+Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
+This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
+one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
+row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
+purled.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]
+
+The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
+on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
+variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
+such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."
+
+There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
+it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
+allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
+two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
+plain knitting.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]
+
+"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
+usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
+be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
+row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
+narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
+larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
+the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.
+
+To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
+for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
+the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for this.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]
+
+To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
+needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
+narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
+stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
+previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
+of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
+as elastic as the remainder of the work.
+
+
+
+
+A Sleeveless Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
+skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.
+
+Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:
+
+1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.
+
+2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.
+
+Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
+check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
+checks deep, or 30 rows.
+
+Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
+every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
+purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
+convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
+the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
+across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
+and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
+rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.
+
+Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
+rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
+to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
+correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
+other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
+underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.
+
+For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
+border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
+checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
+is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.
+
+
+
+
+Costume for the Winter-Girl
+
+
+[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]
+
+Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
+model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
+Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
+steel crochet-hook, No. 6.
+
+For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
+(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
+give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
+end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
+stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9 1/2 inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
+until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
+measures 15 1/2 inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
+spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
+stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
+correspond.
+
+Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
+every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
+toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
+increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
+have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
+stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
+9 1/2 inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
+or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
+back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
+correspond and sew up side-seams.
+
+With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
+number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
+stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
+having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
+on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
+corner stitch.
+
+1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
+narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
+stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
+repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.
+
+2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
+narrowed one.
+
+3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
+corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
+row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
+beginning.
+
+In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
+bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
+repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
+stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
+4 more ridges, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7 1/2 inches); knit in ridges,
+casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
+are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
+1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
+stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
+inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
+bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.
+
+Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
+(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
+pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
+ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
+on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.
+
+Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4 1/2 inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
+and sew in place with two buttons at each side.
+
+Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
+next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
+work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
+double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
+preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
+and used to cover mold.
+
+The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
+8.
+
+Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
+needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) in rounds for 1 1/2 inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
+1 1/2 inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
+measures 14 1/2 inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
+sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.
+
+Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
+in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
+top of cap.
+
+Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
+two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
+knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
+stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
+knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
+ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
+or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
+Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.
+
+Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
+and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
+once.
+
+Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
+rounds plain.
+
+61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.
+
+62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
+you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
+the needles.
+
+To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
+stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.
+
+Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.
+
+Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
+stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
+cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
+palm of hand on another needle.
+
+First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
+from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
+and finish off as directed for the thumb.
+
+Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
+knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
+base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
+plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
+picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.
+
+Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
+stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
+second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
+for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
+off as thumb.
+
+Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
+from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
+needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.
+
+These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
+way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
+the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
+side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
+7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.
+
+
+
+
+Children's Knitted Sets
+
+
+Set No. 1
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 1]
+
+Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
+ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
+the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
+back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
+ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
+narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
+cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.
+
+The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
+stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.
+
+Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
+ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
+34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
+first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
+end.
+
+Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
+two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
+forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
+for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
+30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
+bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
+rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
+28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
+to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
+is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
+bind off evenly.
+
+Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
+and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
+and turn back the cuffs.
+
+For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
+gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.
+
+Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
+crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
+with balls or tassels.
+
+
+Set No. 2
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 2]
+
+Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
+stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
+sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
+the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
+front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
+stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
+stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.
+
+Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
+work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
+around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
+miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
+and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
+in the same way, and run in cord and balls.
+
+For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
+and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
+around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
+color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
+of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.
+
+The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
+preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
+it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
+the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
+together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
+the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
+hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
+yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
+left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
+up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
+would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
+two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
+loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
+the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
+formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
+through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
+through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
+and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
+learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.
+
+
+
+
+A Serviceable Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]
+
+Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
+pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
+also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
+before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
+should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
+inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.
+
+It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
+will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
+ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
+over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
+rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
+When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
+keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
+a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.
+
+Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
+plain for the band at lower edge.
+
+13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.
+
+14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
+Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.
+
+111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.
+
+112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.
+
+114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.
+
+115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.
+
+116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.
+
+117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.
+
+118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.
+
+119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.
+
+120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
+these.
+
+121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.
+
+122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.
+
+123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.
+
+124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.
+
+125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.
+
+126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
+these.
+
+130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
+rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
+stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
+the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
+knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
+then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
+bind off.
+
+Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.
+
+13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
+Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.
+
+28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
+3, bind off 3, knit 4.
+
+29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
+buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
+the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.
+
+Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
+pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
+armhole.
+
+121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
+keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
+8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
+stitches.
+
+177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
+leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.
+
+179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
+the 7 stitches previously left), turn.
+
+181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.
+
+183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
+needle.
+
+184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.
+
+2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
+1, turn.
+
+4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
+remain, turn.
+
+13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.
+
+14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
+every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
+until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.
+
+Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
+follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
+narrow, knit 2, to end of row.
+
+Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.
+
+2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.
+
+3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.
+
+Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
+rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.
+
+To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
+shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
+fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
+drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
+blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
+shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
+perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
+to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
+sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
+there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
+before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
+five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
+to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
+back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.
+
+This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
+be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
+ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
+knitted.
+
+As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
+stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
+cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
+on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
+Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]
+
+This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
+Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
+combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
+work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
+the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
+back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
+96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
+12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
+belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
+at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
+without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
+needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
+knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
+increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
+for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
+completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
+knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
+on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
+buttonholes if these are used.
+
+For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
+each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
+Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
+larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
+ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.
+
+Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
+stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
+stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
+right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
+rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
+the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
+correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
+be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.
+
+Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
+crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
+fasten the belt.
+
+For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
+chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
+next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
+will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
+cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
+used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
+preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
+underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
+double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]
+
+Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
+57 stitches.
+
+1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+knit 6; repeat twice.
+
+2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+5. Same as 4th row.
+
+6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
+work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.
+
+Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
+until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
+back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
+palm.
+
+Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
+must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
+same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
+stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
+continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
+Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
+once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
+arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.
+
+Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
+thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
+2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
+little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
+cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
+of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
+off.
+
+First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
+the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
+stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
+narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
+off as before.
+
+Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
+them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
+on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
+until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
+of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
+and finish off as directed.
+
+Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
+proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
+plain and finish off.
+
+
+
+
+Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming
+
+
+[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]
+
+Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
+colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
+black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.
+
+Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
+Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
+the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.
+
+Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
+enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
+other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.
+
+Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
+the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
+three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
+having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
+joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
+using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
+stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
+well to the foot.
+
+For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
+forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
+the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
+alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
+the bows.
+
+These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
+to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
+number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
+proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
+the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
+stitches, following the same general directions.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Long Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]
+
+Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
+knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.
+
+With color, cast on 57 stitches.
+
+1. Knit plain.
+
+2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
+over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.
+
+3. Purl.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
+repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
+2 rows plain with white.
+
+With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).
+
+With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
+repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.
+
+With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.
+
+Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
+times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
+2 of the "overs."
+
+Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
+rib, completing the leg.
+
+For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
+color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
+purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
+which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
+color; again knit forward and back with color.
+
+For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
+needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
+across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
+needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
+foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.
+
+These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
+The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
+slip down and off the little feet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Knitted Mittens
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]
+
+Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
+loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
+needles.
+
+Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
+inches.
+
+For the pattern, knit as follows:
+
+1. Purl.
+
+2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.
+
+These 4 rows are repeated throughout.
+
+Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
+pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
+continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
+widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
+between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
+twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.
+
+Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
+stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
+knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
+narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
+hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
+knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
+around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
+knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
+narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
+wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
+longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
+child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
+long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.
+
+Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
+and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
+around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.
+
+Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
+reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
+stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.
+
+
+
+
+Knee-Cap
+
+
+[Illustration: Knee-Cap]
+
+Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
+appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
+gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
+were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
+desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.
+
+Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
+single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
+begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
+basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.
+
+Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
+stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
+on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
+until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
+on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
+needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
+of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
+finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
+down in every other stitch.
+
+To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
+then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
+exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
+change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
+and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.
+
+
+
+
+Wristers or Pulse-Warmers
+
+
+[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]
+
+Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
+described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
+exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
+quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
+man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
+knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
+required. Bind off loosely.
+
+With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
+a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
+after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
+next.
+
+Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in
+next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
+filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
+making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
+prettily used for this finish.
+
+A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
+pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
+and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
+with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
+forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.
+
+
+
+
+Motor-Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]
+
+This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
+Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.
+
+1, 3. Purl.
+
+2. Knit plain.
+
+4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.
+
+5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.
+
+6. Knit plain.
+
+7, 9. With white, purl.
+
+8, 10. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
+with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
+of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
+double.
+
+Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
+10 threads each of pink and white.
+
+
+
+
+Sport Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Sport Scarf]
+
+A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
+cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
+Using No. 3 1/2 or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
+(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
+brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
+green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
+times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
+of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
+the other end of scarf as directed for first half.
+
+For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
+in each stitch.
+
+For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
+stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
+more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
+of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
+find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.
+
+Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
+Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.
+
+
+
+
+Scarf in Lattice-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]
+
+Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
+required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.
+
+Knit back and forth 6 times.
+
+7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.
+
+8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
+and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
+left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
+the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
+stitches are not twisted.
+
+9. 10, 11. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat from 7th row.
+
+Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
+bow of ribbon, as preferred.
+
+
+
+
+Knitting for the Red Cross
+
+(Official Red Cross Photographs)
+
+
+Sleeveless Sweater
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (3/4 pound), fivefold, and a
+pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
+11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
+2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
+stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
+plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
+leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
+row single crochet around armholes.
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]
+
+
+Washcloth
+
+[Illustration: Washcloth]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
+inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.
+
+
+Service Sock
+
+[Illustration: Service Sock]
+
+A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
+with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
+20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3 1/2 inches.
+
+Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
+purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
+plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
+stitch for four inches.
+
+Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
+seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
+knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
+round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.
+
+For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
+rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
+stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
+together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
+slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
+purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
+slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
+Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
+finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
+knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.
+
+Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
+knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
+side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
+to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
+stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
+needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.
+
+Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
+following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
+knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
+3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
+bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
+rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
+times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
+on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
+darning in with a worsted-needle.
+
+
+One-Piece Helmet
+
+[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
+and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
+These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
+pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
+be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).
+
+Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.
+
+Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
+needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
+opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
+further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
+stitches for 1 1/2 inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
+stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2 1/2
+inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).
+
+Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
+stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
+round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
+round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
+7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
+needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.
+
+Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:
+
+* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
+knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
+purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
+as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
+needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
+stitches are off the needle.
+
+
+Muffler
+
+[Illustration: Muffler]
+
+Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
+5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
+measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
+sixty-eight inches in length.
+
+
+Hot-Water-Bottle Cover
+
+[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
+inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9 1/2 inches more, or
+until entire work measures 13 1/2 inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
+beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
+stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
+together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.
+
+
+Helmet Made in Two Parts
+
+[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.
+
+The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.
+
+FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
+opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
+spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
+point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
+opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
+the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
+when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
+for 24 rows.
+
+TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
+row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
+row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
+knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
+left.
+
+BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
+Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.
+
+
+Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet
+
+[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]
+
+The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
+gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
+Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
+for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
+inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
+pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8 1/2 inches long, and sewed
+up with no thumb-opening.
+
+Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
+needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
+needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
+to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
+knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
+first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.
+
+
+Bed-Sock
+
+[Illustration: Bed-sock]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
+or steel needles No. 11 or 12.
+
+Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
+for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
+together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
+other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
+finishing one-piece helmet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]
+
+Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
+needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches.
+
+1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.
+
+17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.
+
+18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.
+
+Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
+and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
+Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
+of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.
+
+Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
+the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
+of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
+have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.
+
+Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
+ankle, thus:
+
+1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
+the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
+10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
+from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.
+
+2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.
+
+3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
+7.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
+directed in 1st row, every 6th row.
+
+For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
+these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
+ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
+forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.
+
+Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
+the middle seam.
+
+Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
+thus:
+
+1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
+around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.
+
+2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
+repeat.
+
+Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.
+
+
+
+
+A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]
+
+Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
+plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
+knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
+for the front or turnover of the hood.
+
+Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
+to run ribbon.
+
+Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
+distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
+trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
+repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
+give a good selvage.
+
+Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
+on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
+the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
+ribs the same.
+
+Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
+Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
+of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
+extreme end of crown.
+
+Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
+about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
+crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
+knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
+lower edge of front.
+
+Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
+tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.
+
+By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
+proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
+admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Crochet
+
+
+The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
+and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
+a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
+slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
+is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.
+
+There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
+thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
+usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
+and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
+much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
+nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
+that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
+second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
+slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
+good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
+fluffy as possible.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]
+
+THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
+the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
+thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
+thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
+continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
+as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without thought. When
+abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.
+
+THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
+the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
+join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
+fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
+more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]
+
+SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
+mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
+the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
+needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
+stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
+back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
+different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]
+
+TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
+thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
+draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
+thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
+abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
+crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
+these stitches take their names.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]
+
+HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
+thread and draw through all three stitches at once.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
+up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
+off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
+of double-treble crochet is d t c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]
+
+TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
+hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
+needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
+abbreviation is t t c.
+
+One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
+quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
+quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
+at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
+chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
+short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."
+
+PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
+necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
+directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
+equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
+treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
+3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.
+
+The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
+well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
+catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
+is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
+the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
+given is the best that can be.
+
+
+
+
+Crocheted Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]
+
+One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
+extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
+sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
+Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
+and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
+
+Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
+from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
+
+2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
+chain; repeat across, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
+back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
+
+Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
+until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
+made 4 rows.
+
+In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
+row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
+you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
+front is of the same length as the back.
+
+Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
+other front to correspond.
+
+For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used)
+at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
+treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
+around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
+
+Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
+the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
+widening the same stitches at corners each time.
+
+Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
+Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
+around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
+as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
+and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
+
+For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
+repeat.
+
+The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
+may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
+made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
+loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
+chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
+last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
+stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
+turn.
+
+3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
+cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
+
+The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
+length, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
+in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
+
+Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
+follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
+3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
+2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
+from * to end of row, turn.
+
+4. Same as 2d row.
+
+5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
+treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
+a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
+and 5th rows.
+
+And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
+repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
+repeat. Repeat 2d row.
+
+
+
+
+Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]
+
+For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
+a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
+easily.
+
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
+
+1. Seven doubles in ring.
+
+2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
+
+3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
+you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
+larger crown is desired.
+
+33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
+
+46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
+off the last row neatly.
+
+Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
+stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
+in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
+double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
+will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
+widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
+the cover is closed.
+
+For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
+double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
+or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
+length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
+indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
+"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
+end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
+forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
+through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
+held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
+forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
+or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
+crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
+forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
+the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
+the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
+the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
+of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
+non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
+forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
+up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
+double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
+may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
+
+Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
+completed.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]
+
+Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
+enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
+stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
+trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
+back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
+trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
+chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
+back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.
+
+3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.
+
+Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
+over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
+sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
+will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
+repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
+that.
+
+2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
+row, and treble in treble; repeat.
+
+3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
+trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
+treble; repeat.
+
+Work around the armscye in same way.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Coat Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]
+
+Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
+size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
+crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.
+
+Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
+rib.
+
+3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
+2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
+of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
+loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
+star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
+turn.
+
+Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
+star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
+on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
+rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
+the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
+unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
+other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.
+
+Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
+(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
+directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
+1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.
+
+Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
+single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
+done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
+the opening for armholes.
+
+For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
+around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
+the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
+around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
+neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
+5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.
+
+For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
+on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
+star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
+worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
+with single crochet, as you did the back.
+
+For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
+and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
+a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
+buttonholes.
+
+This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
+with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
+the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
+of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
+smoothly.
+
+Make a chain of 78 stitches.
+
+1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
+twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
+again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
+side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
+row.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
+other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
+thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
+between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.
+
+9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
+continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
+front again.
+
+10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
+in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
+of the jacket.
+
+21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
+corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
+stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
+all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
+back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.
+
+22. Stars all around, of color.
+
+23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
+trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
+star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.
+
+24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
+trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.
+
+25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.
+
+26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
+which to run cord or ribbon.
+
+27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.
+
+28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.
+
+29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.
+
+30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
+between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
+off neatly.
+
+For the sleeve:
+
+1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
+number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
+under the arm.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
+of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.
+
+12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
+stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
+each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
+only 12 stars in the round.
+
+13. With the color, make star in star.
+
+14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.
+
+15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.
+
+This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
+may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
+making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
+make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
+effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
+stitch.
+
+Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
+white and color, in the spaces around the neck.
+
+
+
+
+Girl's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Girl's jacket]
+
+Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
+blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.
+
+1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
+repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.
+
+2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
+repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.
+
+3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
+alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
+blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
+you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
+make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
+double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
+across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
+5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
+front in exactly the same way.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
+blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
+each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
+around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.
+
+2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
+fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.
+
+Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
+the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
+and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.
+
+For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
+jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
+in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
+of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
+and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
+has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.
+
+For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
+3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
+from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
+blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
+make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
+match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
+chain-loops.
+
+For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
+border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
+of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
+chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
+blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
+consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
+upper edge of jacket-border.
+
+Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
+(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
+yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
+lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
+used to draw in the neck.
+
+Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
+made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
+Saxony for a baby.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
+silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
+of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
+
+Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
+up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
+work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).
+
+2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
+treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
+repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
+end where you began.
+
+3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
+over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
+to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
+on each cross and 1 between.
+
+4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
+
+5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
+crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
+plain.
+
+6. Forty-eight crosses.
+
+7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
+plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
+
+8. Fifty-eight crosses.
+
+9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
+miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
+
+10. Thirty-six crosses.
+
+11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
+crosses at center of back.
+
+12. Forty crosses.
+
+13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
+
+14. Forty-two crosses.
+
+15. Like 13th row.
+
+16. Forty-four crosses.
+
+17. Like 13th row.
+
+18. Forty-six crosses.
+
+19. Plain, without widening in the back.
+
+Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
+foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
+1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
+jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
+this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
+stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
+making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
+between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
+2, and repeat.
+
+For the sleeves:
+
+1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
+
+2. Fourteen crosses.
+
+3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
+
+4. Fifteen crosses.
+
+5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
+
+6. Sixteen crosses.
+
+7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
+
+8. Seventeen crosses.
+
+9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
+
+Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
+Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
+remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
+on top.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Shoes in Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]
+
+These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
+delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
+the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
+coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
+directions.
+
+Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
+in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
+
+2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
+within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
+stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
+the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
+from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
+
+5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
+with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
+with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
+
+6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
+widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
+
+7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
+side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
+
+8. Same as 7th row.
+
+9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
+3d of 4 chain.
+
+10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
+from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
+missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
+
+11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
+directed.
+
+13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
+then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
+
+14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
+middle and at end.
+
+15, 17. Like 13th row.
+
+16, 18. Like 14th row.
+
+19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
+the sides.
+
+20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.
+
+21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d
+row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
+1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
+turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
+a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
+end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
+double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
+turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
+side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
+row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
+double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
+with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
+to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
+double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
+double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
+rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
+with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
+buttonholes added.
+
+For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
+double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
+a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
+the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
+
+
+
+
+Ribbed House-Slippers
+
+
+[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]
+
+Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
+Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
+in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
+in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
+rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
+chain 1, turn.
+
+3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
+row.
+
+6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
+
+7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
+
+Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
+as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
+doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
+
+For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
+double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
+the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
+neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
+
+Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
+Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
+(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
+chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
+join to 5th of 10 chain.
+
+For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
+pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
+three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
+make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
+entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
+shade as the yarn.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]
+
+A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
+scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
+pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
+white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
+belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
+in the above paragraph.]
+
+Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
+stitch to form a rib, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
+11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
+doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
+working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
+back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
+
+For the upper part of leg:
+
+1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
+chain.
+
+2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
+stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
+loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
+loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
+before and repeat around.
+
+3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
+pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
+before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
+off, and repeat.
+
+4. Like 3d row, with blue.
+
+5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
+
+7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
+
+8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
+
+9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
+stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
+instep.
+
+2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
+rib.
+
+3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
+
+5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
+
+7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
+single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
+ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]
+
+NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
+
+2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
+3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
+
+13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
+next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
+around, join.
+
+14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
+securely.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
+loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
+draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
+are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
+the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
+afghan-stitch.
+
+Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
+stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
+each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
+5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
+Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.
+
+
+
+
+A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]
+
+One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
+a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
+with a chain of 60 stitches.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
+treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
+repeat.
+
+4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
+
+5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
+
+On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
+which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
+length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
+sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
+size.
+
+For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
+row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
+also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
+
+Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
+yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
+stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
+front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
+
+Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
+to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
+buttonholes.
+
+Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
+
+1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
+through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
+chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
+to top of 1st.
+
+2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
+2; join.
+
+3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
+or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
+
+4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
+to keep the shape.
+
+Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
+
+For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
+working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
+the right side.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
+through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
+through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
+loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
+back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
+stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
+
+Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
+crocheted cord.
+
+This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
+Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
+to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
+working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
+also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
+bean-stitches in each row.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
+little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
+join.
+
+1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
+through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
+a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
+between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
+
+2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
+stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
+stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
+bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
+
+3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
+with 1 chain between, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
+
+5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
+widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
+bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
+
+11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
+
+14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
+stitch.
+
+15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
+stitch; narrow twice in each row.
+
+20, 21. Double in each double.
+
+22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
+
+23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
+
+28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
+hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
+all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
+This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
+
+For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
+chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
+doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
+until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
+button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
+have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
+needle and sew to center of crown.
+
+This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
+may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
+extra warmth.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]
+
+Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
+to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
+through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
+made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
+as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
+
+2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
+stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
+that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
+
+3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
+
+4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
+rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
+stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
+3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
+
+Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
+entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
+corner of front to prevent drawing.
+
+For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
+chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
+in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
+ribbon.
+
+This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
+stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
+white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
+While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.
+
+Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
+
+1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
+
+2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
+draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
+and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
+
+3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
+needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
+insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
+stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.
+
+4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
+
+5. Plain, that is, without widening.
+
+6. Widen every 3d stitch.
+
+7, 8, 9. Plain.
+
+10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
+other end again.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
+neck.
+
+16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
+pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
+border.
+
+17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
+
+19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
+both veins of stitch.
+
+Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
+top, and ribbon ties.
+
+To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
+until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
+and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
+following the general directions given.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
+easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
+eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
+and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
+Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
+suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
+catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
+
+1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
+insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
+the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
+wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
+
+2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
+needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
+in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
+chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
+other stitch of last round.
+
+3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
+
+4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
+
+Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
+used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
+that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
+five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
+you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
+inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
+head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of
+needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate
+directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the
+articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the
+stitch to use and shows how to make it.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns,
+perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery
+shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will
+furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From
+these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look
+like the pictures.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells
+you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive
+cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical
+home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses
+the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish
+in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and
+fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of
+exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a
+new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers
+are different and practical.
+
+A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name
+and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail;
+or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues.
+You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been
+looking for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT after
+reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your
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+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
+
+The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
+business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
+the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
+the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
+women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
+vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.
+
+There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
+every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
+of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
+and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
+squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
+than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
+and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
+without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
+to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
+all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
+wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
+drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
+
+~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
+Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
+Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~
+
+Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
+subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
+this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
+one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
+reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
+if necessary.)
+
+    NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
+    lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
+    same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
+    Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
+    and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
+    6397).
+
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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diff --git a/26113.txt~ b/26113.txt~
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b5ebf2d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26113.txt~
@@ -0,0 +1,3268 @@
+Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+       Published by
+Needlecraft Publishing Company
+      Augusta, Maine
+           1918
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]
+
+_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_
+
+Handbook of Crochet
+
+By Emma Chalmers Monroe
+
+This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
+valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
+wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
+selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
+successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
+results are a certainty.
+
+It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
+of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
+Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.
+
+The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7x10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
+It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.
+
+Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
+you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
+obtained only from us.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Knitting
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]
+
+The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
+sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
+several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
+generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
+for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
+the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
+right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
+left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
+the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
+forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
+finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
+and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
+a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
+loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
+ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
+knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
+up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
+off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
+operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
+explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
+carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."
+
+Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
+except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
+thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
+and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
+thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
+and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
+lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
+knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
+method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
+doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
+where much wear comes.
+
+Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
+when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
+left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
+crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
+simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
+right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
+point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
+needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
+of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
+loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
+front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
+the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
+off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
+needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
+and evenly.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]
+
+The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
+requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
+of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
+left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
+between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
+through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
+the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
+facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
+and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
+knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
+first stitch of each row.
+
+Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
+value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
+of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
+forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
+which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
+By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
+second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
+crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
+usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
+back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
+is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
+more rapidly done.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]
+
+The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
+knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
+wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
+back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
+needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
+on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
+in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
+from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
+and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
+plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
+Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
+its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]
+
+Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
+forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
+This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
+one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
+row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
+the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
+purled.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]
+
+The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
+* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
+repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
+may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
+rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
+on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
+variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
+such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."
+
+There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
+common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
+the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
+the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
+it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
+allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
+two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
+plain knitting.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]
+
+"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
+fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
+before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
+usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
+be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
+row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
+narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
+larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
+the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.
+
+To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
+for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
+the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
+two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
+abbreviation frequently used for this.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]
+
+To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
+without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
+needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
+narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
+slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
+stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
+previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
+of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
+as elastic as the remainder of the work.
+
+
+
+
+A Sleeveless Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
+skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
+was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.
+
+Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:
+
+1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.
+
+2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.
+
+Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
+check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
+the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
+checks deep, or 30 rows.
+
+Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
+every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
+your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
+purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
+convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
+remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
+the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
+across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
+make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
+and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
+toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
+rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
+with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.
+
+Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
+rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
+to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
+correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
+other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
+underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.
+
+For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
+border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
+checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
+doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
+is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.
+
+
+
+
+Costume for the Winter-Girl
+
+
+[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]
+
+Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
+model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
+Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
+steel crochet-hook, No. 6.
+
+For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
+(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
+give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
+end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
+stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
+knit on these stitches for 9 1/2 inches from the waistline, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
+until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
+measures 15 1/2 inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
+spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
+stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
+correspond.
+
+Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
+every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
+toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
+increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
+have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
+stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
+9 1/2 inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
+or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
+back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
+correspond and sew up side-seams.
+
+With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
+number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
+stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
+having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
+on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
+corner stitch.
+
+1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
+narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
+stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
+repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.
+
+2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
+narrowed one.
+
+3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
+corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
+row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
+beginning.
+
+In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
+bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
+repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
+stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
+4 more ridges, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7 1/2 inches); knit in ridges,
+casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
+are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
+1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
+stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
+inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
+ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
+bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.
+
+Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
+(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
+pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
+and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
+there are 7 ridges, and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
+Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
+ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
+on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.
+
+Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4 1/2 inches), knit in
+ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
+and sew in place with two buttons at each side.
+
+Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
+next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
+next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
+work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
+double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
+preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
+and used to cover mold.
+
+The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
+dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
+8.
+
+Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
+needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) in rounds for 1 1/2 inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
+single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
+1 1/2 inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
+measures 14 1/2 inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
+sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.
+
+Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
+in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
+top of cap.
+
+Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
+two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
+knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
+stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
+knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
+ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
+or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
+Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.
+
+Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
+and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
+once.
+
+Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
+1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
+rounds plain.
+
+61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.
+
+62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
+you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
+the needles.
+
+To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
+stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
+needles.
+
+Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
+plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
+through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.
+
+Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
+the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
+stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
+cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
+palm of hand on another needle.
+
+First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
+stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
+safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
+from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
+and finish off as directed for the thumb.
+
+Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
+knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
+base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
+plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
+picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
+knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.
+
+Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
+stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
+second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
+for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
+off as thumb.
+
+Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
+from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
+needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.
+
+These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
+way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
+the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
+side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
+7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.
+
+
+
+
+Children's Knitted Sets
+
+
+Set No. 1
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 1]
+
+Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
+ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
+the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
+back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
+ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
+the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
+narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
+cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.
+
+The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
+stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.
+
+Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
+ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
+34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
+first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
+end.
+
+Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
+two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
+forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
+for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
+30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
+bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
+rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
+28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
+remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
+to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
+is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
+bind off evenly.
+
+Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
+and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
+and turn back the cuffs.
+
+For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
+gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.
+
+Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
+crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
+with balls or tassels.
+
+
+Set No. 2
+
+[Illustration: Set No. 2]
+
+Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
+stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
+sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
+the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
+front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
+stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
+give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
+stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.
+
+Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
+work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
+around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
+miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
+chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
+and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
+in the same way, and run in cord and balls.
+
+For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
+and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
+around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
+color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
+of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
+yarn.
+
+The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
+preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
+it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
+the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
+other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
+together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
+the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
+hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
+yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
+left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
+up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
+would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
+two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
+loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
+the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
+formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
+through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
+through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
+and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
+learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.
+
+
+
+
+A Serviceable Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]
+
+Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
+pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
+also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
+before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
+purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
+should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
+inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.
+
+It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
+will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
+ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
+over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
+rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
+When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
+keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
+a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.
+
+Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
+plain for the band at lower edge.
+
+13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
+purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.
+
+14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
+Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.
+
+111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.
+
+112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.
+
+114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.
+
+115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.
+
+116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.
+
+117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.
+
+118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.
+
+119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.
+
+120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
+these.
+
+121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.
+
+122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.
+
+123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.
+
+124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.
+
+125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.
+
+126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
+these.
+
+130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.
+
+Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
+rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
+stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
+the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
+knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
+then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
+bind off.
+
+Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.
+
+13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
+Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.
+
+28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
+3, bind off 3, knit 4.
+
+29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
+buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
+the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.
+
+Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
+pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
+armhole.
+
+121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
+keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
+8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
+stitches.
+
+177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
+leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.
+
+179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
+the 7 stitches previously left), turn.
+
+181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.
+
+183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
+needle.
+
+184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.
+
+Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.
+
+2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
+1, turn.
+
+4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
+turn.
+
+10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
+turn.
+
+11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
+knit 1, turn.
+
+12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
+remain, turn.
+
+13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.
+
+14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch.
+
+15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
+stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
+every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
+until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.
+
+Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
+follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
+narrow, knit 2, to end of row.
+
+Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.
+
+Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.
+
+1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.
+
+2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.
+
+3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.
+
+Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
+rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.
+
+To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
+shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
+fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
+drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
+blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
+shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
+perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
+to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
+sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
+there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
+before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
+collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
+five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
+to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
+back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
+together.
+
+This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
+be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
+ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
+knitted.
+
+As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
+stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
+cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
+on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
+Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
+and knit to measure, without stretching your work.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]
+
+This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
+Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
+combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
+work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
+the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
+back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
+96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
+12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
+belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
+at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
+without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
+needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
+knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
+increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
+ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
+for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
+completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
+knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
+on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
+buttonholes if these are used.
+
+For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
+each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
+decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
+Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
+larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
+ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.
+
+Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
+stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
+stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
+right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
+rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
+the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
+correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
+be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.
+
+Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
+crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
+fasten the belt.
+
+For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
+chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
+next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
+will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
+Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
+cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
+used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
+miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
+preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
+use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
+underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
+double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]
+
+Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
+57 stitches.
+
+1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+knit 6; repeat twice.
+
+2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
+
+5. Same as 4th row.
+
+6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
+take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
+work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.
+
+Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
+until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
+back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
+palm.
+
+Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
+must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
+same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
+stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
+widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
+continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
+Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
+once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
+arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
+at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
+and bind off.
+
+Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
+thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
+2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
+little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
+cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
+stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
+of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
+off.
+
+First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
+the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
+stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
+narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
+off as before.
+
+Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
+them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
+on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
+until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
+of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
+and finish off as directed.
+
+Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
+proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
+plain and finish off.
+
+
+
+
+Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming
+
+
+[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]
+
+Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
+colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
+black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.
+
+Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
+Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
+the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.
+
+Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
+enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
+other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.
+
+Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
+the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
+three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
+having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
+joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
+using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
+stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
+well to the foot.
+
+For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
+forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
+the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
+alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
+the bows.
+
+These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
+to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
+number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
+proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
+the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
+stitches, following the same general directions.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Long Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]
+
+Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
+knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.
+
+With color, cast on 57 stitches.
+
+1. Knit plain.
+
+2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
+over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.
+
+3. Purl.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
+repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
+2 rows plain with white.
+
+With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).
+
+With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
+repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.
+
+With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
+the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.
+
+Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
+times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
+2 of the "overs."
+
+Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
+rib, completing the leg.
+
+For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
+color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
+purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
+which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
+color; again knit forward and back with color.
+
+For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
+needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
+across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
+needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
+foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.
+
+These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
+The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
+slip down and off the little feet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Knitted Mittens
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]
+
+Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
+loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
+needles.
+
+Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
+inches.
+
+For the pattern, knit as follows:
+
+1. Purl.
+
+2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.
+
+These 4 rows are repeated throughout.
+
+Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
+pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
+continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
+widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
+between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
+to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
+twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.
+
+Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
+stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
+knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
+narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
+hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
+knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
+around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
+knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
+narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
+securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
+wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
+longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
+child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
+long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
+for the thumb.
+
+Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
+and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
+around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.
+
+Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
+reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
+stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.
+
+
+
+
+Knee-Cap
+
+
+[Illustration: Knee-Cap]
+
+Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
+appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
+gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
+were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
+desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.
+
+Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
+single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
+begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
+basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.
+
+Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
+stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
+on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
+until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
+on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
+needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
+of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
+finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
+down in every other stitch.
+
+To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
+then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
+exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
+change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
+and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.
+
+
+
+
+Wristers or Pulse-Warmers
+
+
+[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]
+
+Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
+described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
+exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
+quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
+man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
+knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
+required. Bind off loosely.
+
+With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
+a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
+after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
+next.
+
+Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in
+next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
+filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
+making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
+prettily used for this finish.
+
+A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
+pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
+and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
+with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
+forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.
+
+
+
+
+Motor-Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]
+
+This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
+Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.
+
+1, 3. Purl.
+
+2. Knit plain.
+
+4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.
+
+5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.
+
+6. Knit plain.
+
+7, 9. With white, purl.
+
+8, 10. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
+with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
+of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
+double.
+
+Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
+10 threads each of pink and white.
+
+
+
+
+Sport Scarf
+
+
+[Illustration: Sport Scarf]
+
+A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
+cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
+Using No. 3 1/2 or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
+and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
+(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
+brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
+green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
+times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
+of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
+the other end of scarf as directed for first half.
+
+For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
+in each stitch.
+
+For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
+stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
+more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
+of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
+find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
+pleasing study.
+
+Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
+Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.
+
+
+
+
+Scarf in Lattice-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]
+
+Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
+required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.
+
+Knit back and forth 6 times.
+
+7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.
+
+8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
+and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
+left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
+the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
+stitches are not twisted.
+
+9. 10, 11. Knit plain.
+
+Repeat from 7th row.
+
+Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
+bow of ribbon, as preferred.
+
+
+
+
+Knitting for the Red Cross
+
+(Official Red Cross Photographs)
+
+
+Sleeveless Sweater
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]
+
+Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (3/4 pound), fivefold, and a
+pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
+11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
+2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
+Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
+stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
+plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
+leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
+row single crochet around armholes.
+
+[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]
+
+
+Washcloth
+
+[Illustration: Washcloth]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
+inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.
+
+
+Service Sock
+
+[Illustration: Service Sock]
+
+A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
+with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
+20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3 1/2 inches.
+
+Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
+purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
+plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
+stitch for four inches.
+
+Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
+seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
+knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
+round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.
+
+For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
+and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
+rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
+stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
+together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
+purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
+turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
+narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
+slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
+purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
+purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
+slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
+Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
+finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
+needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
+knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.
+
+Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
+knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
+side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
+to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
+stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
+needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.
+
+Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
+following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
+knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
+3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
+bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
+rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
+times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
+on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
+darning in with a worsted-needle.
+
+
+One-Piece Helmet
+
+[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
+and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
+These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
+pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
+be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
+(making 40 on 1st needle).
+
+Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.
+
+Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
+needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
+opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
+further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
+stitches for 1 1/2 inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
+stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2 1/2
+inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
+needle, making 42 on 1st needle).
+
+Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
+together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
+stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
+round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
+round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
+7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
+needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.
+
+Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
+proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:
+
+* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
+knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
+purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
+as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
+needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
+stitches are off the needle.
+
+
+Muffler
+
+[Illustration: Muffler]
+
+Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
+5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
+measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
+sixty-eight inches in length.
+
+
+Hot-Water-Bottle Cover
+
+[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]
+
+White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
+
+Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
+inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9 1/2 inches more, or
+until entire work measures 13 1/2 inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
+beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
+stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
+together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
+to tie around neck of bottle.
+
+
+Helmet Made in Two Parts
+
+[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.
+
+The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.
+
+FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
+ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
+opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
+knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
+spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
+purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
+point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
+opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
+the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
+when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
+for 24 rows.
+
+TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
+narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
+row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
+row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
+knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
+knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
+left.
+
+BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
+opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
+Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.
+
+
+Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet
+
+[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]
+
+The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
+gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
+Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
+for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
+inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
+pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8 1/2 inches long, and sewed
+up with no thumb-opening.
+
+Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
+needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
+needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
+thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
+to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
+knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
+first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
+thumb-opening.
+
+
+Bed-Sock
+
+[Illustration: Bed-sock]
+
+One hank of yarn (1/4 pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
+or steel needles No. 11 or 12.
+
+Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
+for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
+together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
+other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
+finishing one-piece helmet.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]
+
+Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
+needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches.
+
+1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.
+
+17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.
+
+18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.
+
+Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
+and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
+Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
+of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.
+
+Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
+the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
+of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
+have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.
+
+Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
+ankle, thus:
+
+1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
+the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
+10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
+from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.
+
+2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.
+
+3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
+7.
+
+Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
+directed in 1st row, every 6th row.
+
+For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
+these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
+ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
+forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.
+
+Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
+the middle seam.
+
+Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
+thus:
+
+1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
+around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.
+
+2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
+repeat.
+
+Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.
+
+
+
+
+A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]
+
+Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
+plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
+knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
+for the front or turnover of the hood.
+
+Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
+to run ribbon.
+
+Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
+distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
+trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
+repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
+give a good selvage.
+
+Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
+on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
+the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
+ribs the same.
+
+Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
+Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
+of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
+extreme end of crown.
+
+Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
+about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
+crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
+knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
+lower edge of front.
+
+Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
+tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.
+
+By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
+proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
+admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.
+
+
+
+
+A Lesson in Crochet
+
+
+The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
+and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
+a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
+slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
+is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
+called treble, and so on.
+
+There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
+thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
+usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
+following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
+and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
+much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
+the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
+nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
+that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
+second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
+slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
+third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
+good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
+fluffy as possible.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]
+
+THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
+the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
+thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
+thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
+stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
+continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
+as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
+After a little practise one does this without thought. When
+abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.
+
+THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
+the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
+join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
+fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
+portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
+more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]
+
+SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
+mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
+the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
+needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
+abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
+stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
+back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
+different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]
+
+TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
+thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
+draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
+thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
+abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
+crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
+these stitches take their names.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]
+
+HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
+thread and draw through all three stitches at once.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]
+
+DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
+up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
+work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
+off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
+of double-treble crochet is d t c.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]
+
+TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
+hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
+needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
+abbreviation is t t c.
+
+One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
+quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
+quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
+at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
+chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
+short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
+a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."
+
+PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
+necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
+directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
+equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
+treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
+3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.
+
+The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
+well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
+catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
+is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
+easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
+the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
+two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
+given is the best that can be.
+
+
+
+
+Crocheted Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]
+
+One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
+extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
+sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
+Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
+and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
+
+Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
+from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
+
+2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
+chain; repeat across, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
+back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
+
+Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
+until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
+made 4 rows.
+
+In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
+row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
+you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
+front is of the same length as the back.
+
+Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
+other front to correspond.
+
+For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used)
+at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
+treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
+around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
+corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
+
+Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
+the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
+widening the same stitches at corners each time.
+
+Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
+Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
+usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
+around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
+as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
+and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
+
+For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
+repeat.
+
+The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
+may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
+made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
+through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
+loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
+chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
+joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
+last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
+over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
+stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
+turn.
+
+3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
+cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
+row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
+
+The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
+length, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
+in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
+
+Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
+follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
+3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
+2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
+from * to end of row, turn.
+
+4. Same as 2d row.
+
+5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
+treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
+a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
+and 5th rows.
+
+And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
+repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
+repeat. Repeat 2d row.
+
+
+
+
+Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]
+
+For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
+a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
+easily.
+
+Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
+
+1. Seven doubles in ring.
+
+2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
+
+3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
+
+Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
+you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
+larger crown is desired.
+
+33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
+
+36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
+
+46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
+off the last row neatly.
+
+Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
+stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
+in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
+double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
+around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
+will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
+widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
+the cover is closed.
+
+For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
+double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
+or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
+delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
+length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
+indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
+"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
+end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
+then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
+forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
+through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
+held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
+hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
+forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
+or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
+crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
+forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
+the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
+the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
+the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
+of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
+non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
+forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
+up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
+double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
+may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
+lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
+
+Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
+completed.
+
+
+
+
+Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight
+
+
+[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]
+
+Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
+enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
+stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
+trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
+back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.
+
+2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
+trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
+chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
+back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.
+
+3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.
+
+Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
+over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
+sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
+will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
+repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
+that.
+
+2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
+row, and treble in treble; repeat.
+
+3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
+trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
+treble; repeat.
+
+Work around the armscye in same way.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Coat Sweater
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]
+
+Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
+size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
+crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.
+
+Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
+rib.
+
+3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
+2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
+of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
+chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
+(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
+loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
+star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
+turn.
+
+Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
+star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
+on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
+rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
+the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
+worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
+unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
+other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.
+
+Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
+(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
+directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
+1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.
+
+Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
+single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
+done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
+the opening for armholes.
+
+For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
+around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
+the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
+around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
+around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
+neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
+5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
+In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.
+
+For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
+on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
+star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
+worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
+with single crochet, as you did the back.
+
+For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
+and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
+a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
+buttonholes.
+
+This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
+with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
+the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
+of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
+smoothly.
+
+Make a chain of 78 stitches.
+
+1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
+twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
+again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
+side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
+row.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
+other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
+thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
+between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.
+
+9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
+continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
+front again.
+
+10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
+in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
+of the jacket.
+
+21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
+corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
+stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
+all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
+back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.
+
+22. Stars all around, of color.
+
+23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
+trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
+star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.
+
+24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
+trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.
+
+25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.
+
+26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
+which to run cord or ribbon.
+
+27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.
+
+28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.
+
+29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.
+
+30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
+between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
+off neatly.
+
+For the sleeve:
+
+1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
+number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
+under the arm.
+
+2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
+of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.
+
+12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
+stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
+each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
+only 12 stars in the round.
+
+13. With the color, make star in star.
+
+14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.
+
+15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.
+
+This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
+may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
+making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
+make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
+effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
+stitch.
+
+Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
+white and color, in the spaces around the neck.
+
+
+
+
+Girl's Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Girl's jacket]
+
+Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
+blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.
+
+1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
+repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.
+
+2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
+repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.
+
+3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
+alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
+blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
+you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
+same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
+make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
+double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
+across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
+5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
+front in exactly the same way.
+
+For the border:
+
+1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
+blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
+each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
+around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.
+
+2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
+fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.
+
+Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
+the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
+and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.
+
+For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
+jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
+in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
+of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
+under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
+and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
+has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.
+
+For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
+3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
+from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
+blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
+make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
+match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
+chain-loops.
+
+For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
+border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
+of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
+chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
+blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
+widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
+consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
+upper edge of jacket-border.
+
+Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
+(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
+yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
+as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
+lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
+used to draw in the neck.
+
+Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
+made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
+Saxony for a baby.
+
+
+
+
+Babies' Jacket
+
+
+[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]
+
+Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
+silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
+of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
+
+Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
+
+1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
+up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
+work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
+effect is not so good).
+
+2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
+treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
+repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
+end where you began.
+
+3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
+over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
+to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
+on each cross and 1 between.
+
+4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
+
+5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
+crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
+plain.
+
+6. Forty-eight crosses.
+
+7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
+plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
+
+8. Fifty-eight crosses.
+
+9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
+miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
+
+10. Thirty-six crosses.
+
+11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
+crosses at center of back.
+
+12. Forty crosses.
+
+13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
+
+14. Forty-two crosses.
+
+15. Like 13th row.
+
+16. Forty-four crosses.
+
+17. Like 13th row.
+
+18. Forty-six crosses.
+
+19. Plain, without widening in the back.
+
+Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
+foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
+1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
+jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
+this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
+to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
+stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
+making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
+between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
+2, and repeat.
+
+For the sleeves:
+
+1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
+
+2. Fourteen crosses.
+
+3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
+
+4. Fifteen crosses.
+
+5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
+
+6. Sixteen crosses.
+
+7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
+
+8. Seventeen crosses.
+
+9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
+
+Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
+Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
+remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
+on top.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Shoes in Crochet
+
+
+[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]
+
+These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
+delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
+the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
+coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
+directions.
+
+Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
+
+1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
+in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
+
+2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
+within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
+stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
+
+3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
+the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
+stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
+from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
+
+5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
+with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
+with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
+
+6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
+widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
+
+7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
+side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
+
+8. Same as 7th row.
+
+9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
+3d of 4 chain.
+
+10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
+from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
+missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
+
+11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
+directed.
+
+13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
+then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
+
+14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
+middle and at end.
+
+15, 17. Like 13th row.
+
+16, 18. Like 14th row.
+
+19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
+the sides.
+
+20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.
+
+21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d
+row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
+1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
+turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
+in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
+a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
+end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
+double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
+in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
+turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
+side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
+row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
+double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
+double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
+miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
+with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
+to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
+double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
+double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
+rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
+with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
+buttonholes added.
+
+For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
+double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
+a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
+the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
+
+
+
+
+Ribbed House-Slippers
+
+
+[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]
+
+Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
+Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
+in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
+in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
+
+2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
+rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
+chain 1, turn.
+
+3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
+row.
+
+6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
+
+7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
+
+Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
+as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
+doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
+
+For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
+double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
+the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
+neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
+
+Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
+Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
+(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
+chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
+join to 5th of 10 chain.
+
+For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
+pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
+three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
+make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
+entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
+the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
+shade as the yarn.
+
+
+
+
+Baby's Bootees
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]
+
+A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
+scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
+pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
+white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
+belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
+in the above paragraph.]
+
+Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
+
+NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
+
+2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
+stitch to form a rib, turn.
+
+Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
+11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
+doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
+working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
+back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
+
+For the upper part of leg:
+
+1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
+chain.
+
+2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
+stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
+loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
+loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
+before and repeat around.
+
+3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
+pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
+before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
+off, and repeat.
+
+4. Like 3d row, with blue.
+
+5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
+
+7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
+
+8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
+
+9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
+stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
+instep.
+
+2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
+rib.
+
+3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
+
+5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
+
+7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
+single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
+ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]
+
+NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
+
+2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
+3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
+
+13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
+next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
+around, join.
+
+14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
+securely.
+
+For the foot:
+
+1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
+loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
+draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
+are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
+working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
+the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
+afghan-stitch.
+
+Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
+stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
+each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
+5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
+Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
+around top of bootee.
+
+
+
+
+A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
+
+
+[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]
+
+One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
+a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
+with a chain of 60 stitches.
+
+1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
+
+2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
+treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
+
+3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
+repeat.
+
+4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
+
+5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
+
+On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
+which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
+length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
+sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
+of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
+size.
+
+For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
+row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
+also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
+
+Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
+yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
+stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
+front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
+then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
+
+Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
+to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
+buttonholes.
+
+Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
+
+1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
+through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
+chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
+to top of 1st.
+
+2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
+2; join.
+
+3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
+or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
+
+4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
+to keep the shape.
+
+Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
+
+For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
+working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
+the right side.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
+through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
+through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
+loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
+back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
+stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
+star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
+
+Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
+crocheted cord.
+
+This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
+Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
+to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
+working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
+also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
+bean-stitches in each row.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
+little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
+join.
+
+1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
+through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
+a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
+all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
+between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
+
+2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
+stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
+stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
+bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
+
+3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
+with 1 chain between, join.
+
+4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
+
+5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
+widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
+bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
+
+11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
+
+14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
+stitch.
+
+15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
+stitch; narrow twice in each row.
+
+20, 21. Double in each double.
+
+22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
+
+23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
+
+28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
+hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
+all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
+This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
+
+For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
+chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
+doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
+until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
+more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
+button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
+have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
+needle and sew to center of crown.
+
+This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
+may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
+extra warmth.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]
+
+Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
+to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
+
+1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
+through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
+close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
+made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
+as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
+
+2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
+stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
+that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
+
+3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
+
+4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
+rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
+stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
+3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
+
+Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
+entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
+corner of front to prevent drawing.
+
+For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
+chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
+in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
+ribbon.
+
+This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
+stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
+white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
+While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
+to fit any head.
+
+Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
+
+1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
+
+2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
+loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
+draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
+and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
+
+3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
+needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
+insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
+stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
+in every 3d of previous round.
+
+4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
+
+5. Plain, that is, without widening.
+
+6. Widen every 3d stitch.
+
+7, 8, 9. Plain.
+
+10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
+other end again.
+
+11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
+neck.
+
+16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
+pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
+border.
+
+17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
+
+19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
+both veins of stitch.
+
+Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
+top, and ribbon ties.
+
+To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
+until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
+and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
+following the general directions given.
+
+
+
+
+Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
+
+
+[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]
+
+This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
+easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
+eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
+and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
+Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
+suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
+catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
+
+1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
+insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
+the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
+wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
+
+2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
+hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
+needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
+in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
+chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
+other stitch of last round.
+
+3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
+
+4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
+
+Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
+used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
+that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
+five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
+you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
+inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
+head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of
+needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
+designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate
+directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the
+articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the
+stitch to use and shows how to make it.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns,
+perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery
+shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will
+furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From
+these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look
+like the pictures.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells
+you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive
+cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
+that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical
+home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.
+
+NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses
+the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish
+in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and
+fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of
+exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a
+new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers
+are different and practical.
+
+A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name
+and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail;
+or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues.
+You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been
+looking for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT after
+reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your
+subscription and return your money.
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+
+
+
+How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
+
+The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
+gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
+business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
+the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
+the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
+women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
+vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.
+
+There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
+every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
+of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
+and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
+squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
+than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
+and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
+without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
+to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
+all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
+wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
+drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
+
+~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
+Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
+Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~
+
+Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
+subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
+this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
+one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
+reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
+if necessary.)
+
+    NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
+    lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
+    same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
+    Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
+    and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
+    6397).
+
+
+Needlecraft
+Augusta--Maine
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous
+
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