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diff --git a/26113.txt~ b/26113.txt~ new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5ebf2d --- /dev/null +++ b/26113.txt~ @@ -0,0 +1,3268 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + + + + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + +Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet + + +[Illustration] + + Published by +Needlecraft Publishing Company + Augusta, Maine + 1918 + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet] + +_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_ + +Handbook of Crochet + +By Emma Chalmers Monroe + +This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most +valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or +wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful +selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every +successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect +results are a certainty. + +It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use +of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, +Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc. + +The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7x10 inches) and 44 illustrations. +It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors. + +Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent +you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be +obtained only from us. + +Needlecraft +Augusta--Maine + + + + +Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet + + + + +A Lesson in Knitting + + +[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles] + +The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is +sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are +several methods for this, the following being that preferred and +generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient +for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, +the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the +right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the +left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around +the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the +forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second +finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand, +and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you +a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this +loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or +ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain +knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw +up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it +off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole +operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because +explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through +carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on." + +Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect, +except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the +thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb +and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the +thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter +and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or +lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then +knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this +method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be +doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article +where much wear comes. + +Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method +when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the +left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front, +crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred, +simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the +right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around +point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right +needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that +of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or +loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in +front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving +the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped +off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the +needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly +and evenly. + +[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain] + +The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the +requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front +of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the +left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down +between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and +through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting +the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to +facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off +and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in +knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the +first stitch of each row. + +Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of +value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger +of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the +forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger +which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch. +By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under +second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for +crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in +usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this +back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle +is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much +more rapidly done. + +[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling] + +The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain +knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the +wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the +back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two +needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch +on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought +in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle +from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point +and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in +plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left. +Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to +its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again. + +[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch] + +Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and +forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled. +This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If +one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st +row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of +the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side +purled. + +[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib] + +The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib, +* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2; +repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib +may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in +rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled +on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large +variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling, +such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check." + +There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the +common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from +the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of +the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass +it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch, +allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the +two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in +plain knitting. + +[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"] + +"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in +fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread +before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as +usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to +be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the +row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must +narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a +larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in +the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled. + +To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as +for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over +the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through +two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an +abbreviation frequently used for this. + +[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off] + +To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle, +without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right +needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip, +narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the +slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st +stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the +previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain +of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just +as elastic as the remainder of the work. + + + + +A Sleeveless Sweater + + +[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater] + +A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six +skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss +was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted. + +Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows: + +1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5. + +2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5. + +Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the +check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change +the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five +checks deep, or 30 rows. + +Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side +every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on +your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and +purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for +convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the +remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give +the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting +across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to +make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole, +and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further +toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85 +rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond +with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond. + +Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6 +rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front, +to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to +correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on +other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the +underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly. + +For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the +border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42 +checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with +doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt +is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect. + + + + +Costume for the Winter-Girl + + +[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl] + +Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the +model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray +Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a +steel crochet-hook, No. 6. + +For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches +(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will +give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each +end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 +stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline); +knit on these stitches for 9 1/2 inches from the waistline, then +decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or +until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back +measures 15 1/2 inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a +spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25 +stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to +correspond. + +Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front +every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more +toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, +increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches +have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60 +stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for +9 1/2 inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm- +or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the +back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to +correspond and sew up side-seams. + +With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven +number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the +stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front, +having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch +on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the +corner stitch. + +1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over, +narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner +stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch, +repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch. + +2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of +narrowed one. + +3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next +corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of +row. + +Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the +beginning. + +In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck, +bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and +repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4 +stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for +4 more ridges, and bind off. + +Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7 1/2 inches); knit in ridges, +casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there +are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease +1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56 +stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 +inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13 +ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges, +bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs. + +Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater +(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle +pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora +and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until +there are 7 ridges, and bind off. + +Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to +Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th +ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place +on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in. + +Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4 1/2 inches), knit in +ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off +and sew in place with two buttons at each side. + +Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in +next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in +next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold, +work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1 +double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If +preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater +and used to cover mold. + +The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the +dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No. +8. + +Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2 +needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl +1) in rounds for 1 1/2 inches, change to the rose floss and knit in +single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for +1 1/2 inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top +measures 14 1/2 inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving +sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in. + +Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie +in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at +top of cap. + +Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss, +two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone +knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60 +stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and +knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7 +ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches, +or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of +Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off. + +Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss, +and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at +once. + +Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl +1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16 +rounds plain. + +61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1. + +62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain. + +Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until +you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on +the needles. + +To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4 +stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3 +needles. + +Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round +plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool +through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side. + +Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on +the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24 +stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d +cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for +palm of hand on another needle. + +First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18 +stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another +safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6 +from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds, +and finish off as directed for the thumb. + +Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches, +knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at +base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round +plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches +picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining +knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb. + +Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3 +stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of +second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed +for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow +off as thumb. + +Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches +from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d +needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb. + +These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same +way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that +the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand +side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit +7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove. + + + + +Children's Knitted Sets + + +Set No. 1 + +[Illustration: Set No. 1] + +Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35 +ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up +the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border +back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 +ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and +the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over, +narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the +cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off. + +The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of +stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs. + +Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14 +ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit +34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at +first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each +end. + +Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for +two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and +forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work +the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches +for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit +30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle, +bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12 +rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit +28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the +remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front +to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front +is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches; +bind off evenly. + +Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back +and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams +and turn back the cuffs. + +For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of +gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off. + +Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double +crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished +with balls or tassels. + + +Set No. 2 + +[Illustration: Set No. 2] + +Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26 +stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other +sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for +the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the +front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a +stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will +give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26 +stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back. + +Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams, +work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and +around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, +miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 +chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st +and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves +in the same way, and run in cord and balls. + +For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color +and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish +around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using +color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells +of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of +yarn. + +The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as +preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's +delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely +it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as +the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the +other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn +together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say +the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same +hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the +yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the +left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch +up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you +would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the +two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the +loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of +the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as +formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand +through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it +through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot +and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has +learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags, +lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord. + + + + +A Serviceable Sweater + + +[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater] + +Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one +pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and +also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block +before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and +purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There +should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an +inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6. + +It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you +will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the +ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch +over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All +rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge. +When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are +keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms +a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout. + +Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows +plain for the band at lower edge. + +13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), * +purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch. + +14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10. +Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all. + +111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern. + +112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these. + +113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern. + +114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches. + +115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern. + +116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end. + +117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern. + +118. Like 114th, knitting last 6. + +119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern. + +120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit +these. + +121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern. + +122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end. + +123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern. + +124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end. + +125, 127, 129. Like 123d row. + +126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit +these. + +130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these. + +Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd +rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23 +stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed +the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by +knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should +then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and +bind off. + +Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows. + +13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last +stitch. + +14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10. +Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all. + +28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit +3, bind off 3, knit 4. + +29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the +buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin +the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front. + +Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the +pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the +armhole. + +121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to +keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken +8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63 +stitches. + +177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn, +leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting. + +179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including +the 7 stitches previously left), turn. + +181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn. + +183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of +needle. + +184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off. + +Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches. + +1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn. + +2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1, +turn. + +3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit +1, turn. + +4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1, +turn. + +5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3, +turn. + +6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1, +turn. + +7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2, +knit 1, turn. + +8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1, +turn. + +9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3, +turn. + +10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1, +turn. + +11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2, +knit 1, turn. + +12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches +remain, turn. + +13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end. + +14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last +stitch. + +15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last +stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of +every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing +until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row. + +Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as +follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times, +narrow, knit 2, to end of row. + +Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off. + +Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches. + +1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2. + +2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1. + +3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2. + +Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10 +rows plain for top of pocket and bind off. + +To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into +shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a +fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from +drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a +blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and +shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges +perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as +to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the +sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness +there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back +before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the +collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on +five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, +to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the +back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both +together. + +This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily +be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for +ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly +knitted. + +As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any +stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat +cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it +on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. +Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks +and knit to measure, without stretching your work. + + + + +Ladies' Sweater + + +[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater] + +This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of +Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were +combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The +work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With +the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the +back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or +96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. +12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the +belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch +at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or +without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare +needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, +knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, +increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 +ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed +for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having +completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; * +knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off +on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting +buttonholes if these are used. + +For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on +each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then +decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times. +Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the +larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 +ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off. + +Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65 +stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 +stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on +right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 +rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping +the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to +correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may +be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs. + +Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or +crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to +fasten the belt. + +For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a +chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in +next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there +will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. +Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will +cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons +used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then * +miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If +preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and +use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening +underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a +double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button. + + + + +Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs + + +[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs] + +Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on +57 stitches. + +1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, +knit 6; repeat twice. + +2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. + +3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. + +4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. + +5. Same as 4th row. + +6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, +take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of +work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat. + +Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row, +until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up +back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across +palm. + +Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care +must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the +same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the +stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with +widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen; +continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches. +Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit +once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, +arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow +at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles +and bind off. + +Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of +thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on +2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the +little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and +cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 +stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end +of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind +off. + +First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to +the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6 +stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds +narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish +off as before. + +Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit +them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these +on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit +until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 +of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, +and finish off as directed. + +Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain, +proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches +plain and finish off. + + + + +Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming + + +[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming] + +Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two +colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little +black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated. + +Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles. +Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join +the color. The square is for the toe of slipper. + +Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long +enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on +other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe. + +Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring +the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss +three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat, +having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is +joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole, +using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be +stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling +well to the foot. + +For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and +forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with +the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three, +alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on +the bows. + +These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made +to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional +number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip +proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make +the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less +stitches, following the same general directions. + + + + +Babies' Long Bootees + + +[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees] + +Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel +knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees. + +With color, cast on 57 stitches. + +1. Knit plain. + +2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3, +over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row. + +3. Purl. + +Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white +repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and +2 rows plain with white. + +With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1). + +With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib; +repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color. + +With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives +the appearance of plain knitting on the right side. + +Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3 +times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping +2 of the "overs." + +Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single +rib, completing the leg. + +For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the +color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and +purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times, +which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in +color; again knit forward and back with color. + +For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand +needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21 +across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left +needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the +foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces. + +These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty. +The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to +slip down and off the little feet. + + + + +Child's Knitted Mittens + + +[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens] + +Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or +loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three +needles. + +Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two +inches. + +For the pattern, knit as follows: + +1. Purl. + +2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1. + +These 4 rows are repeated throughout. + +Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen +pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and +continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3, +widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches +between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible +to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around +twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread. + +Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7 +stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue +knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence +narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the +hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and +knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times +around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and +knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, +narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and +securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the +wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear +longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a +child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is +long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings +for the thumb. + +Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up +and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting +around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches. + +Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you +reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3 +stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down. + + + + +Knee-Cap + + +[Illustration: Knee-Cap] + +Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges, +appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable +gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn +were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as +desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn. + +Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in +single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to +begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in +basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model. + +Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a +stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left +on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time +until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches +on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three +needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each +of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and +finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught +down in every other stitch. + +To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows, +then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches +exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This +change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect, +and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters. + + + + +Wristers or Pulse-Warmers + + +[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers] + +Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those +described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely +exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or +quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a +man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and +knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length +required. Bind off loosely. + +With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting +a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles; +after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the +next. + +Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in +next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are +filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color, +making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be +prettily used for this finish. + +A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a +pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over +and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open +with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and +forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up. + + + + +Motor-Scarf + + +[Illustration: Motor-Scarf] + +This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of +Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink. + +1, 3. Purl. + +2. Knit plain. + +4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3. + +5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops. + +6. Knit plain. + +7, 9. With white, purl. + +8, 10. Knit plain. + +Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished +with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center +of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1 +double. + +Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of +10 threads each of pink and white. + + + + +Sport Scarf + + +[Illustration: Sport Scarf] + +A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep +cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes. +Using No. 3 1/2 or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back +and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit +(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of +brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of +green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 +times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 +of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making +the other end of scarf as directed for first half. + +For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand +in each stitch. + +For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50 +stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much +more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead +of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will +find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a +pleasing study. + +Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the +Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen. + + + + +Scarf in Lattice-Stitch + + +[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch] + +Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as +required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over. + +Knit back and forth 6 times. + +7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch. + +8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs," +and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to +left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit +the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long +stitches are not twisted. + +9. 10, 11. Knit plain. + +Repeat from 7th row. + +Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a +bow of ribbon, as preferred. + + + + +Knitting for the Red Cross + +(Official Red Cross Photographs) + + +Sleeveless Sweater + +[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater] + +Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (3/4 pound), fivefold, and a +pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed; +11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl +2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. +Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28 +stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit +plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides, +leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 +row single crochet around armholes. + +[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together] + + +Washcloth + +[Illustration: Washcloth] + +White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1. + +Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10 +inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner. + + +Service Sock + +[Illustration: Service Sock] + +A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs, +with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and +20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3 1/2 inches. + +Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and +purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit +plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam +stitch for four inches. + +Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the +seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and +knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th +round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch. + +For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, +and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25 +rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st +stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 +together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, +purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1, +turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, +narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; +slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, +purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, +purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; +slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow. +Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just +finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the +needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then +knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel. + +Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle +knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on +side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit +to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 +stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front +needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep. + +Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the +following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, +knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within +3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and +bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 +rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three +times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches +on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and +darning in with a worsted-needle. + + +One-Piece Helmet + +[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet] + +One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); Red Cross needles No. 2. + +Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, +and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back. +These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both +pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to +be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added +(making 40 on 1st needle). + +Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36. + +Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st +needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face +opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for +further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 +stitches for 1 1/2 inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 +stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2 1/2 +inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st +needle, making 42 on 1st needle). + +Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches +together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2 +stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of +round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth +round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as +7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2 +needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other. + +Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and +proceed to weave the front and back together as follows: + +* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if +knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if +purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle +as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back +needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the +stitches are off the needle. + + +Muffler + +[Illustration: Muffler] + +Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No. +5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches, +measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is +sixty-eight inches in length. + + +Hot-Water-Bottle Cover + +[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover] + +White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1. + +Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 +inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9 1/2 inches more, or +until entire work measures 13 1/2 inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at +beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen +stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew +together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing +to tie around neck of bottle. + + +Helmet Made in Two Parts + +[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts] + +One hank of yarn (1/4 pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2. + +The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together. + +FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25 +ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the +opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, +knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit +2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a +spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2, +purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that +point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face +opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At +the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle, +when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2 +for 24 rows. + +TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14, +narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d +row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th +row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow, +knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain +knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are +left. + +BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face +opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch. +Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open. + + +Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet + +[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet] + +The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn, +gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles. +Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, +for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two +inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or +pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8 1/2 inches long, and sewed +up with no thumb-opening. + +Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone +needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 +needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for +thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back +to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue +knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at +first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole +thumb-opening. + + +Bed-Sock + +[Illustration: Bed-sock] + +One hank of yarn (1/4 pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2 +or steel needles No. 11 or 12. + +Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely +for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches +together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each +other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for +finishing one-piece helmet. + + + + +Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted + + +[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted] + +Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone +needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15. + +Cast on 68 stitches. + +1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib. + +17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn. + +18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches. + +Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row +and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle. +Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side +of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches. + +Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting +the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end +of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you +have 50 stitches remaining on the needle. + +Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of +ankle, thus: + +1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit +the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit +10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches +from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn. + +2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit +2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn. + +3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit +7. + +Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as +directed in 1st row, every 6th row. + +For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on +these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8 +ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and +forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off. + +Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by +the middle seam. + +Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings, +thus: + +1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat +around, and join to 3d of 5 chain. + +2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next; +repeat. + +Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels. + + + + +A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly + + +[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly] + +Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit +plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6, +knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is +for the front or turnover of the hood. + +Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which +to run ribbon. + +Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches +distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a +trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib; +repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to +give a good selvage. + +Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done +on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as +the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the +ribs the same. + +Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described. +Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number +of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near +extreme end of crown. + +Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts, +about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the +crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front; +knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at +lower edge of front. + +Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and +tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon. + +By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown +proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve +admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted. + + + + +A Lesson in Crochet + + +The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use, +and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself +a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real +slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double +is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is +called treble, and so on. + +There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the +thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is +usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The +following instructions were given by the English teacher in question, +and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very +much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between +the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold +nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of +that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and +second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger, +slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the +third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially +good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and +fluffy as possible. + +[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch] + +THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up +the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the +thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the +thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new +stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so +continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop +as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness. +After a little practise one does this without thought. When +abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch. + +THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on +the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to +join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close +fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain +portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is +more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st. + +[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet] + +SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes +mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in +work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on +the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c. + +[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet] + +DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in +work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the +needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The +abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet +stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the +back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite +different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops. + +[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet] + +TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the +thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and +draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up +thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The +abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single +crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which +these stitches take their names. + +[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet] + +HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up +thread and draw through all three stitches at once. + +[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet] + +DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take +up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in +work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked +off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation +of double-treble crochet is d t c. + +[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet] + +TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert +hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on +needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The +abbreviation is t t c. + +One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as +quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work), +quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two +at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one +chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or +short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to +a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw." + +PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the +necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like +directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is +equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 +treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss +3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice. + +The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be +well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without +catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work +is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more +easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in +the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no +two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule +given is the best that can be. + + + + +Crocheted Jacket + + +[Illustration: Crochet Jacket] + +One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is +extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings +sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold +Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body +and two of white for the border, if made in two colors. + +Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn. + +1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat +from * across, making 26 doubles; turn. + +2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1 +chain; repeat across, turn. + +Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the +back, bringing the work to the shoulder. + +Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row +until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have +made 4 rows. + +In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of +row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until +you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the +front is of the same length as the back. + +Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the +other front to correspond. + +For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used) +at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st +treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all +around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at +corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar. + +Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did +the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, +widening the same stitches at corners each time. + +Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together. +Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the +usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm +around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long +as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before +and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket. + +For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot; +repeat. + +The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch +may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch, +made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn. + +1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn. + +2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop +through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a +loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, * +chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or +joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with +last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch, +over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next +stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *; +turn. + +3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and +cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last +row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern. + +The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired +length, turn. + +1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn. + +2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double +in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row. + +Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as +follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn. + +1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn. + +2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn. + +3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in +3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through +2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat +from * to end of row, turn. + +4. Same as 2d row. + +5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a +treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1, +a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th +and 5th rows. + +And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn. + +1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch, +repeat to end of row, turn. + +2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row; +repeat. Repeat 2d row. + + + + +Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet + + +[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet] + +For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and +a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn +easily. + +Make a chain of 3 stitches, join. + +1. Seven doubles in ring. + +2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch. + +3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat. + +4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat. + +5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat. + +Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until +you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a +larger crown is desired. + +33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat. + +34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat. + +35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat. + +36 to 45. A double in each stitch. + +46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten +off the last row neatly. + +Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3 +stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles +in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1 +double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and +around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which +will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without +widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until +the cover is closed. + +For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the +double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet, +or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's +delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a +length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be; +indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may +"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one +end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, +then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and +forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls +through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed +held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left +hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right +forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling +or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in +crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and +forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up +the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now +the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in +the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger +of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the +non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right +forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull +up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of +double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as +may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags, +lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord. + +Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is +completed. + + + + +Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight + + +[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight] + +Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large +enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140 +stitches, turn. + +1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3 +trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of +back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn. + +2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3 +trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2 +chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in +back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect. + +3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining. + +Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold +over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two +sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This +will leave about 65 stitches for armscye. + +For the border: + +1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2; +repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to +that. + +2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous +row, and treble in treble; repeat. + +3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2 +trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single +treble; repeat. + +Work around the armscye in same way. + + + + +Child's Coat Sweater + + +[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater] + +Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook +size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is +crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back. + +Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn. + +1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn. + +2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a +rib. + +3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through +2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each +of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, +chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made +(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular +loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the +star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row, +turn. + +Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of +star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs; +on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3 +rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten +the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all +worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not +unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at +other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row. + +Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches +(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as +directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving +1 star less at the top or neck-end each time. + +Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with +single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully +done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving +the opening for armholes. + +For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch, +around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of +the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work +around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work +around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is +neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss +5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. +In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain. + +For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles +on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of +star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are +worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side +with single crochet, as you did the back. + +For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch +and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of +a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the +buttonholes. + +This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting +with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep +the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one. + + + + +Child's Jacket + + +[Illustration: Child's Jacket] + +Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein +of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn +smoothly. + +Make a chain of 78 stitches. + +1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen) +twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in +again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right +side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st +row. + +2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every +other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front, +thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore +between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings. + +9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back, +continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across +front again. + +10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm. + +11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only +in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body +of the jacket. + +21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front +corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2 +stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue +all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the +back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first. + +22. Stars all around, of color. + +23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2 +trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of +star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly. + +24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2 +trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners. + +25. Same as 24th row, with white wool. + +26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in +which to run cord or ribbon. + +27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space. + +28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row. + +29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar. + +30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space +between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten +off neatly. + +For the sleeve: + +1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required +number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain +under the arm. + +2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star +of previous row, and joining underneath the arm. + +12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the +stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through +each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making +only 12 stars in the round. + +13. With the color, make star in star. + +14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star. + +15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border. + +This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch +may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after +making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and +make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy +effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding +stitch. + +Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both +white and color, in the spaces around the neck. + + + + +Girl's Jacket + + +[Illustration: Girl's jacket] + +Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of +blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches. + +1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next; +repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn. + +2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop; +repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn. + +3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next; +repeat to end of row. + +Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all, +alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4 +blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until +you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back +same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen, +make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a +double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue +across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of +5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other +front in exactly the same way. + +For the border: + +1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in +blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at +each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on +around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks. + +2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described, +fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles. + +Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always +the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d +and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue. + +For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of +jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder, +in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row +of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles +under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join, +and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model +has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops. + +For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the +3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop +from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of +blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; +make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to +match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue +chain-loops. + +For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in +border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side +of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting +chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 +blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, +widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2 +consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to +upper edge of jacket-border. + +Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks, +(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue +yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops +as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff, +lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is +used to draw in the neck. + +Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily +made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white +Saxony for a baby. + + + + +Babies' Jacket + + +[Illustration: Babies' Jacket] + +Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool +silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards +of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily. + +Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn. + +1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing +up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the +work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the +effect is not so good). + +2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d +treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross; +repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the +end where you began. + +3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles +over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you +to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 +on each cross and 1 between. + +4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses. + +5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4 +crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21 +plain. + +6. Forty-eight crosses. + +7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24 +plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain. + +8. Fifty-eight crosses. + +9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain, +miss 12 crosses, 24 plain. + +10. Thirty-six crosses. + +11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6 +crosses at center of back. + +12. Forty crosses. + +13. Plain, with 6 extra in back. + +14. Forty-two crosses. + +15. Like 13th row. + +16. Forty-four crosses. + +17. Like 13th row. + +18. Forty-six crosses. + +19. Plain, without widening in the back. + +Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of +foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2, +1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the +jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow +this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners +to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a +stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk, +making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double +between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain +2, and repeat. + +For the sleeves: + +1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses. + +2. Fourteen crosses. + +3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all. + +4. Fifteen crosses. + +5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles. + +6. Sixteen crosses. + +7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles. + +8. Seventeen crosses. + +9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles. + +Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket. +Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the +remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow +on top. + + + + +Baby's Shoes in Crochet + + +[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet] + +These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or +delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to +the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or +coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same +directions. + +Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches. + +1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1 +in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join. + +2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to +within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle +stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d +stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join. + +3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down +the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle +stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch +from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join. + +4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings. + +5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles +with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles, +with 1 chain between, at back of heel. + +6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the +widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel. + +7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each +side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join. + +8. Same as 7th row. + +9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to +3d of 4 chain. + +10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches +from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by +missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join. + +11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as +directed. + +13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp, +then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn. + +14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the +middle and at end. + +15, 17. Like 13th row. + +16, 18. Like 14th row. + +19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on +the sides. + +20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch. + +21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d +row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in +1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe, +turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles +in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side, +a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at +end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a +double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single +in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, +turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of +side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other +row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and +double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with +double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5, +miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back +with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around +to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, +double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in +double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6 +rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish +with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more +buttonholes added. + +For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each +double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in +a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to +the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes. + + + + +Ribbed House-Slippers + + +[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper] + +Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist. +Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn. + +1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles +in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain, +in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn. + +2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the +rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, +chain 1, turn. + +3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each +row. + +6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn. + +7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch. + +Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep +as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2 +doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles. + +For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a +double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or +the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join +neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp. + +Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus: +Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble +(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2, +chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, +join to 5th of 10 chain. + +For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times, +pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about +three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch; +make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be +entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between +the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same +shade as the yarn. + + + + +Baby's Bootees + + +[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees] + +A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated +scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in +pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and +white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's +belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed +in the above paragraph.] + +Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn. + +NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn. + +2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of +stitch to form a rib, turn. + +Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain +11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10 +doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then, +working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the +back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch. + +For the upper part of leg: + +1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3 +chain. + +2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d +stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3 +loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a +loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as +before and repeat around. + +3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before +pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as +before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work +off, and repeat. + +4. Like 3d row, with blue. + +5, 6. Like 3d row, with white. + +7. With blue, a double in each stitch. + +8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join. + +9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same +stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly. + +For the foot: + +1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and +instep. + +2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a +rib. + +3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white. + +5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue. + +7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with +single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with +ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg. + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees] + +NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join. + +1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join. + +2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and +3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white. + +13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in +next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat +around, join. + +14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off +securely. + +For the foot: + +1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a +loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and +draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all +are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by +working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again +the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of +afghan-stitch. + +Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each +stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in +each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then +5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed. +Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles +around top of bootee. + + + + +A Sweater and Cap for Dolly + + +[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly] + +One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use +a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater +with a chain of 60 stitches. + +1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn. + +2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st +treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn. + +3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row; +repeat. + +4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double). + +5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder. + +On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row +which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of +length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the +sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center +of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired +size. + +For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th +row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st; +also crochet sleeve in the armscye. + +Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue +yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3 +stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left +front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3; +then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain. + +Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row +to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the +buttonholes. + +Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring. + +1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw +through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle, +chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join +to top of 1st. + +2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each +2; join. + +3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d +or 4th by making a bean in top of bean. + +4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order +to keep the shape. + +Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap. + +For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn, +working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on +the right side. + +1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also +through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw +through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a +loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through +back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 +stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of +star-stitch. Fasten off neatly. + +Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a +crocheted cord. + +This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold +Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself +to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and +working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may +also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of +bean-stitches in each row. + + + + +Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch + + +[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch] + +Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a +little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, +join. + +1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop +through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up +a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through +all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain +between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch. + +2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same +stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st +stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, +bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join. + +3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch, +with 1 chain between, join. + +4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch. + +5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between +widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with +bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row. + +11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space. + +14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each +stitch. + +15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of +stitch; narrow twice in each row. + +20, 21. Double in each double. + +22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between. + +23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn. + +28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from +hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through +all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat. +This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap. + +For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of +chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2 +doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat +until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two +more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the +button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you +have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with +needle and sew to center of crown. + +This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and +may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for +extra warmth. + + + + +Child's Crocheted Hood + + +[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood] + +Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough +to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join. + +1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2 +through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to +close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just +made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off +as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join. + +2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same +stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so +that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row. + +3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times. + +4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3 +rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the +stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and +3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual. + +Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars +entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each +corner of front to prevent drawing. + +For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring, +chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon +in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of +ribbon. + +This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any +stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it. + + + + +Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch + + +[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch] + +Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool, +white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. +While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged +to fit any head. + +Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join. + +1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join. + +2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a +loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over, +draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, +and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round. + +3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert +hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the +needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over, +insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all +stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches +in every 3d of previous round. + +4. Widen in every 5th stitch. + +5. Plain, that is, without widening. + +6. Widen every 3d stitch. + +7, 8, 9. Plain. + +10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at +other end again. + +11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of +neck. + +16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very +pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the +border. + +17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood. + +19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in +both veins of stitch. + +Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on +top, and ribbon ties. + +To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown +until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer +and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, +following the general directions given. + + + + +Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch + + +[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch] + +This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is +easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of +eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap +and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and +Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of +suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without +catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join. + +1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over, +insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all +the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11 +wedge-stitches in the ring; join. + +2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over, +hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on +needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook +in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, +chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every +other stitch of last round. + +3. Widen in every 3d stitch. + +4. Widen in every 6th stitch. + +Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is +used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so +that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around +five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length +you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five +inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the +head of tassel, and cut open the other end. + + * * * * * + +NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of +needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card +designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate +directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the +articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the +stitch to use and shows how to make it. + +NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns, +perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery +shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs. + +NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will +furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From +these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look +like the pictures. + +NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells +you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive +cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine +that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical +home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published. + +NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses +the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish +in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and +fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of +exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a +new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers +are different and practical. + +A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name +and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail; +or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues. +You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been +looking for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT after +reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your +subscription and return your money. + +Needlecraft +Augusta--Maine + + + + +How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost + +The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no +gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the +business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to +the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from +the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all +women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one +vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there. + +There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that +every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting +of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, +and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all +squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money +than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent +and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use +without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential +to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their +all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have +wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that +drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided + +~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and +Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to +Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~ + +Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular +subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber +this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one +one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We +reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins +if necessary.) + + NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a + lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the + same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide + Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396), + and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No. + 6397). + + +Needlecraft +Augusta--Maine + +[Illustration] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + +***** This file should be named 26113.txt or 26113.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/1/1/26113/ + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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