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+Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Journey to America in 1834
+
+Author: Robert Heywood
+
+Release Date: February 15, 2008 [EBook #24626]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834
+
+
+
+
+     A JOURNEY TO
+   AMERICA IN 1834
+
+
+         BY
+
+   ROBERT HEYWOOD
+ OF THE PIKE, BOLTON
+
+      [Device]
+
+
+  PRIVATELY PRINTED
+        1919
+
+
+
+
+ One hundred copies printed for
+ the Editor by J. B. Peace, M.A.
+ at the University Press
+ Cambridge. October, 1919.
+
+
+
+
+ROUTE
+
+(_The numbers indicate pages in the Journal_)
+
+
+ Bolton (1).
+
+ Liverpool _to_ New York, _by packet "Britannia." May 1-June 8_ (1-23).
+
+ New York (23-26).
+
+ New York, _by steamer and stage via Princeton and Trenton to_
+     Philadelphia (26-30).
+
+ Philadelphia, _by stage via Frankford and Schuylkill and steamer to_
+     Baltimore (30-34).
+
+ Baltimore _to_ Washington (34-36).
+
+ Washington, _by stage via Alexandria and Mount Vernon back to_
+     Washington (36-37)
+
+ Washington, _by R. Potomac to Fredericksburg, then stage via Orange
+     Court, Charlottesville, Brookville, over Blue Ridge Mountains to_
+     Staunton. _Jenning's Gap, Charrodale, Warm Springs, Hot Springs,
+     Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Kamley, Deak, Hawk's Nest, R. Kanawha,
+     Charleston to_ Guyandotte, _thence by steamer down R. Ohio to_
+     Maysville (38-44).
+
+ Maysville, _via Hillsburgh, Paris to_ Lexington (44-45).
+
+ Lexington, _by stage via Frankford to_ Louisville (45-47).
+
+ Louisville, _by steamer up R. Ohio to_ Cincinnati (47-48).
+
+ Cincinnati, _by stage via Reading, Lebanon, Wainville and Springfield
+     to_ Columbus (48-49).
+
+ Columbus, _by stage via Zanesville, Cambridge to_ Wheeling (49-50).
+
+ Wheeling, _by steamer up R. Ohio to Steubenville, thence by stage via
+     Paris and Florence to_ Pittsburg (51-52).
+
+ Pittsburg, _by stage via Butler, Meadville and Waterford to_ Erie
+     (52-53).
+
+ Erie, _by steamer on lake, via Portland, Dunkirk and Silver Creek to_
+     Buffalo (53-54).
+
+ Buffalo _to_ Falls of Niagara (54-56).
+
+ Niagara, _by steamer on lake via York, Toronto, Port Hope, Cobourg,
+     Kingston, Brockville, and Prescot to_ Montreal (56-59).
+
+ Montreal, _by steamer on R. St. Lawrence via Cornwall, and Three Rivers
+     to_ Quebec (60).
+
+ At Quebec, _Beauport Lake and Montmorency Falls, and back to_ Montreal
+     (60-62).
+
+ Montreal, _by steamer via La Prairie, St. John's, Plattsburg (on Lake
+     Champlain) to_ Ticonderoga (62-64).
+
+ Ticonderoga, _via Lake St. George to_ Caldwell (64).
+
+ Caldwell, _by stage via Glen Falls, Saratoga, Ballston and Schenectady
+     to_ Albany (64-66).
+
+ Albany, _by stage via Stockbridge, Seddon, Beckett, Springfield and
+     Worcester to_ Boston (66-68).
+
+ Boston, _via Cambridge to Lowell and back to_ Boston (69-70).
+
+ Boston, _by stage via Nahant, Pawtucket and Providence to_ Newport
+     (70-75).
+
+ Newport, _by steamer to_ New York (75-76).
+
+ New York, _by stage to Rockaway and Jamaica and back to_ New York
+     (76-78).
+
+ New York, _by stage via Catskill Mountains, Cairo, Hobart, Morrisville,
+     Bloomville to_ Delhi, _Green, Bainbridge to_ Binghampton,
+     _Montrose, Pike, Orrell, Towanda, Berwick, Sugar Mountain,
+     Cherrytown, Columbus, Northumberland, Pottsville, Tuscarora,
+     Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk, Lehigh Gap, Easton to_ Philadelphia (78-92).
+
+ Philadelphia, _by steamer to Trenton, thence to Laurenceville and_ New
+     York (92-94).
+
+ New York, _by steamer up R. Hudson via West Point on right bank, by
+     Poughkeepsie on left bank and back to_ New York (95-99).
+
+ Sailed from New York _to_ Liverpool _in packet "Hibernia," Sept. 16_
+     (99).
+
+ Reached Liverpool, _October 9_ (109) _and_ Bolton (110).
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+BY ROBERT HEYWOOD
+
+
+The _Britannia_, 125 feet long. Number of persons on board: 27 engaged
+on the vessel, including the Captain, two mates, two cooks, two stewards
+and a carpenter, with nine passengers, making, with 152 steerage
+passengers, a total of 188.
+
+    The Captain, Wm. Sketchley, an experienced seaman having crossed
+      the Atlantic 132 times--very attentive to the wants of the
+      steerage.
+
+List of passengers:
+
+    Mr. Bassnett from Preston, has been a good deal in Canada, also in
+      the West Indies and Holy Land.
+
+    Mr. Hamilton, a clergyman of the Irish Epis., decrepit easy
+      Christian.
+
+    Mr. Grindrod, a Methodist preacher going to Kingston as a president
+      from England, possessing more activity and apparent piety.
+
+    Captain Kenney, an officer on half-pay, had seen a good deal of high
+      life.
+
+    Mr. Cayley, a good-looking but rather coxcomical young man, he and
+      his parents had resided at St. Petersburg.
+
+    Mr. Webster, a native of the West Indies and had resided there
+      several years, his father more than 30 years, now resided at
+      Cheltenham.
+
+    Mr. Seaton, an American, had crossed the Atlantic several times and
+      also been in the West Indies.
+
+    Mr. Jackson, of Barnsley, rather deaf, but seemed to have more money
+      than wit; he and his two brothers carry on an extensive
+      manufactory of linen and woollen business.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The _Hibernia_, 108 feet long.
+
+    The Captain, James L. Wilson, of New York, a jolly sort of fellow
+      with more navigation than religion.
+
+List of passengers:
+
+    Mr. Street, formerly of Boston, now New York, dealer in dry goods,
+      chiefly Manchester where he had resided three years; a pleasant
+      sensible man, rather touchy.
+
+    Mr. Williams, of New York, a rattling talking fellow, not much
+      excepting having got some dollars, now setting off to make a tour
+      through Europe for the benefit of his health; talks of soon
+      learning French and singing; another John Jones.
+
+    Mr. D. Holzknecht, of Trieste, a good-natured sort of person; his
+      father bound for his return to Italy.
+
+    Mr. Frankland, of Liverpool, a lively intelligent Quaker; been two
+      or three times to Italy, partly pleasure and partly business; left
+      in November and had been to New Orleans and Quebec.
+
+    Mr. Hopkins, of Hartford, Mass., a Professor going to London to
+      purchase philosophical instruments, and purposed attending
+      lectures in Paris, but not knowing French I recommended him to
+      Edinburgh which he seemed to approve.
+
+
+
+
+DIARY OF A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834
+
+
+THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834.
+
+Left home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three friends, Mr. Baker,
+Mr. John Dean, and Cousin Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince's
+Dock[1]; found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thence
+we proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the kindest
+attention. Received several letters of introduction and valuable
+information; recommended me to take dollars; sent a clerk with me to the
+money exchangers and also lent me £150. Just then I saw James Turner
+pass by; he got me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove down
+with 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in my
+portmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river and 1/4 before 6
+were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. The steamer left us at
+half-past nine P.M. near the floating lights. Charged £18. 18. 0.; went
+to tea 1/4 past 8, found nine passengers. Had a good deal of
+conversation with one of them, an American, who seemed to be acquainted
+with all the packets. Said he supposed the _Britannia_ cost 40,000
+dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another passenger had been
+in Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of America; thought I
+should have ample time in two months to see the most interesting parts
+of America, including Canada. Recommended a covering during the night to
+guard against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept in drawers
+and stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there being rather scanty
+narrow bed clothes. The sea placid so as to allow getting comfortably to
+bed.
+
+
+FRIDAY, MAY 2ND.
+
+Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of cocks, etc. Our live stock
+very considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese,
+ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6-1/2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of
+fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papers
+had been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steerage
+passengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish
+people not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below.
+
+Began reading "A Tour through Canada." Found one of the passengers going
+out to assist at a Methodistic Conference in Canada. This forenoon the
+Captain told the helmsman to go north about. The wind became favourable.
+We left the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or rather
+the Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much relish for dinner.
+Munched one of mother's cakes and took tea which I liked very much. Had
+a pleasant chat in the evening; was informed about the watches which are
+reckoned from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, making
+what is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to rest about
+half past ten. Soon after being in my berth found considerable heaves 6
+or 8 times, then still whilst I counted 20 or 25, then again heaving as
+before. This is occasioned by what are called the Swells.
+
+
+SATURDAY, MAY 3RD.
+
+Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found ourselves within 3
+miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre on our right. Heard the
+Captain speak to a vessel going to Liverpool telling them to report us
+all well. Breakfasted very well but soon returned upon deck as we
+expected soon to lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten which
+threw the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of Ireland
+till past five when the land and we parted for some weeks. About this
+time I became qualmish and went to the stern to see if I could hasten
+the catastrophe by putting down my fingers; this did not avail,
+therefore I descended to open my store of camomile and black currants;
+no sooner was this accomplished than I became sick three or four times.
+I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept 3 or 4 hours. The
+ship rolled very much and the water I heard splashing by; it seemed
+sometimes as if actually going over. Two interesting circumstances
+occurred last night. I dreamed that my father was actually alive and in
+his better way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel--how
+he had come there we did not know. What must be the situation of the
+poor steerage passengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set of
+children? A very happy circumstance for us rather than the proprietors
+is that we have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth to
+himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warm
+weather.
+
+
+SUNDAY, MAY 4TH.
+
+Passed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, but found
+myself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did not attempt to rise
+till twelve, and then unable to shave. Sat sometimes in the sunshine and
+sometimes in the small house, unable to walk and fearful of descending.
+Took only a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended about
+7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when I vomited, then drank
+a cup of tea. Last night I dreamed that I actually saw my dear father
+alive and cheerful. Several birds resembling sparrows flew about the
+ship and seemed as if they had made an error in their reckoning as they
+must be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but deeply
+sympathise with the steerage passengers so crowded, whilst with every
+attention I cannot but think my own situation miserable.
+
+
+MONDAY, MAY 5TH.
+
+A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt sickly. Managed
+to shave without a glass. Sickly all day and unable to take exercise.
+Sat in the upper house with a quantity of flannel around my feet; urged
+by the Captain to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my great
+surprise found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sick
+several times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, took two
+of the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them warm. Sipped of the
+currant tea and felt very comfortable.
+
+Morning dawn, crowing of cocks, 7-1/2 bell rung round the cabin. 8
+breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. 12 lunch; shins of
+beef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, fowls, beef, mutton, pies,
+puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, French plums. 7 tea.
+
+
+TUESDAY, MAY 6TH.
+
+Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without glass, walked on deck, got
+breakfast in the upper house with my two clerical friends. Talked about
+the miseries of Ireland which they both ascribed to the bad effects of
+popery, which Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in any
+other part of the world; one great proof was that the evils were worse
+in Munster. When I mentioned France, they said infidelity prevailed
+there, which I admitted to be the case in the large cities. Dined above
+with the two ecclesiastics. A good deal of rain with little wind. Then
+blew fair but very cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one of
+the pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; commenced
+with Watson's "Life[2]," belonging to Mr. Grindrod. Many gulls flying
+behind the vessel; a ship in sight northwards. A poor hen escaped from
+the pen and remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get her
+she flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her throat
+cut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long way. Hope to have
+got over my sickness. This evening we all appeared below at tea, being
+the first time since Saturday morning, the sickness continuing from
+Saturday evening to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seaton
+play chess. No great skill displayed.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH.
+
+Passed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. Well enough to
+shave by means of a glass. Made an error in reckoning the watch bells.
+On deck at half-past six. Found we had not progressed much, the wind
+unfavourable. No tides here, but assisted by the current make about two
+knots per hour. About ten an improved N.E. wind which continued most of
+the day. Cough nearly gone, sickness also, breakfasted pretty well and
+dined heartily. I and my two clerical friends ordered two bottles of
+champagne. About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up soon
+after five, proved the _A----_ from Havannah bound to St. Petersburgh
+and had been out 42 days; asked us whence we came and whither bound,
+also the longitude. Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage.
+The first really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to be
+recovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could not be prevailed
+on to leave their hammocks; could not speak a word of English. Found the
+steerage passengers very respectable poor people from Lancashire,
+Lincolnshire, Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, some
+with a pretty good property which they found regularly diminishing. A
+theological debate with Mr. Hamilton. Read part of Lander's[3] "Travels
+in Africa."
+
+
+THURSDAY, MAY 8TH.
+
+Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without difficulty, but I
+forgot to rinse out my mouth with water according to my invariable
+practise. Very cold with stiff breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. At
+dinner a warm discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended that
+agitation could only prevail where there was distress. See the state of
+America; what could D. O'Connell do there? About 5 we had what is called
+a squall of wind. I went on deck and found the vessel on one side, and
+scudding steadily through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying the
+ship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51°, that I remained a good deal
+below, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's[4] "Tour in Canada." The
+_Britannia_ 125 feet long.
+
+Wines, etc., on board furnished by the steward at the following prices:
+
+ Madeira wine per bottle                              $1.50
+ Sherry    "        "                                  1.50
+ Port      "        "                                  1.25
+ Claret per bottle                                     1.25
+ Champagne per bottle                                  2
+ Hock or Moselle per bottle                            1.50
+ Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky         } per bottle      1
+ Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial }
+ Porter per bottle                                     0.37-1/2
+ Cider        "                                         .25
+ Soda Water   "                                         .12-1/4
+ Saratoga     "                                         .25
+
+
+FRIDAY, MAY 9TH.
+
+Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested well the
+first two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards a good deal of
+rolling and pitching of the vessel. The conversation this morning at
+breakfast chiefly on the expense of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stout
+box coat charged ten guineas which was pronounced very cheap, though I
+cannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for £6. 6. 0. Mr. S.
+said that 400 dollars was not unusually paid in America. The wind still
+from the north and therefore favourable, but still very cold. After
+dinner played three games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all.
+Learned from one of the seamen that the _Britannia_ is about seven years
+old, and is expected to continue as a packet about two years longer.
+Squally again towards night with a good deal of heaving. Tried fishing
+but not successful. After reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I went
+to rest soon after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have a
+small hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went into
+ribbands.
+
+
+SATURDAY, MAY 10TH.
+
+Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled tremendously
+and between one and two I heard a considerable bump, the vessel lurched
+and we shipped a heavy sea, that is the water flowed over us. I
+continued in a state of great suspense hearing all sorts of things
+tumbling about and my looking glass dashed on to me in my berth; put my
+knees against one side and my back to the other to prevent being tumbled
+out. For the first time began to regret coming. Often near asleep and
+then the vessel so much on one side I could not help fearing it going
+over. Not being able to sleep I got up before seven A.M. Found the sea
+very greatly agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by the
+foam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in pursuit of
+anything we might throw away. The ocean has the appearance of hills and
+vales and the heaving on one side I found was occasioned by going up the
+sides of the hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After reading
+Watson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one P.M. Then went on
+deck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and that wrong, rain, and rather
+sickly. An elderly sailor at the helm said we had a strong gale in the
+night; but at this time of year it was not much minded and told me it
+was quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteen
+dismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the deck. Saw a ship
+yesterday. The gale again increased towards evening and I feared a poor
+night. A very good pancake half way across the Atlantic.
+
+
+SUNDAY, MAY 11TH.
+
+Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the assurance of the
+impossibility of the ship being blown on one side. Remained awake
+several hours and afterwards found it assist to lie on one's back when
+the ship is rolling. Whilst on deck the sea suddenly broke over the
+side. I escaped by means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson got
+a complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a religious
+service which was assented to, and our clerical friends promised to
+conduct it. At eleven we had the Church of England Service read by Mr.
+Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod acting as clerk and also closing the service by
+an appropriate prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and praying
+for a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the vessel, also
+the Captain and family. It was intended to have a sermon preached to the
+whole crew in the afternoon, but the weather proved too cold. The
+Captain said we had made three degrees of latitude since noon the day
+before; would not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day or
+two we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship or porpoises to be
+seen of all day.
+
+
+MONDAY, MAY 12TH.
+
+Passed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, but were glad
+to find this not the case, the breeze had continued moderately through
+the night. Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steerage
+passengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises
+swimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with
+Captain Kenney about the English nobility, etc., and also with Captain
+Sketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chiefly
+between Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool on
+account of Mrs. S. who could not bear the extremes of the American
+climate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their
+family already gone to America.
+
+
+TUESDAY, MAY 13TH.
+
+Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times;
+and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow
+hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes
+one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling
+foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights[5], those at the stern, were
+made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The
+Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year;
+talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain
+Kenney now appeared on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce were
+suddenly swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. Cayley.
+Towards evening the sky became darker and the storm likely to increase
+during the night; this we found the case and about ten we rolled
+tremendously; we all seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a few
+conundrums, etc.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH.
+
+Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more sail was hoisted
+that steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably till half past seven.
+Nobody but I and Mr. Grindrod seemed to have been inconvenienced. A
+delightful change, the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sun
+shining. A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers about
+1-1/2 inch thick and 10 in. diameter, counting thus, and the trenchers
+could be slided within the lines;--claret--2 bottles of champagne being
+the wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went to lie down,
+having had so little sleep. Whilst down a ship passed to the west of us.
+Played two games at Chess with the Captain who beat me though I had
+quite the game and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, if
+successful I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed.
+Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to be seen.
+
+ +-+-+-+
+ |1|8|6|
+ +-+-+-+
+ |5|3|7|
+ +-+-+-+
+ |9|4|2|
+ +-+-+-+
+
+
+THURSDAY, MAY 15TH.
+
+Had a pleasant night, found little wind and that not favourable; in fact
+they tell me we are not nearing N.Y. Finished Watson's "Memoirs" 667
+octavo pages; a good reply to those who have attempted a defence of
+slavery from O. and N. Testament. Spent the day very delightfully, being
+so warm that we preferred the shade. The wind but light and not fair.
+Tried fishing but not successful.
+
+An old seaman who has been with the _Britannia_ over three years says he
+never knew a passage from England to America made in less than 30 days.
+
+Played another game at chess with Mr. Seaton, had the worst of it, but
+called away to dinner. Another play was putting the feet in a swing rope
+and trying how far they could go, being then chalked on the deck.
+
+After tea went on deck, a beautiful starlight night, a good deal of
+singing. Jackson had ascended the rigging, was followed by one of the
+seamen who tied his legs. The usual penalty followed--a bottle of rum;
+he gave them two and the evening passed merrily.
+
+
+FRIDAY, MAY 16TH.
+
+Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind and that
+adverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. Played another game
+with Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, still unsuccessful. Had a slight
+headache, the atmosphere feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey's
+chickens or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed us
+some distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown to it by the
+Captain.
+
+The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made to America. At
+dinner a warm discussion on the Duke of Newcastle doing "what he liked
+with his own"; also the advantage of colonies, also the large military
+and naval expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera Cruz
+to Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since we sailed. This
+evening played another game with the Captain and lost. Went on deck and
+heard two songs.
+
+
+SATURDAY, MAY 17TH.
+
+Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from Liverpool and could
+not get back in time for sailing; also that I had had three suits of
+clothes sent in. Was sorry to learn that the wind had died away and that
+we had only made about 1-1/2 knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a great
+distance; about two they came within a mile of us; others were also
+observed. Went down and wrote a few lines; the vessel did not come near
+enough for us to speak to them. Another ship passed in the afternoon but
+more distant. At dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sell
+for more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes indeed. In the
+evening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said he himself had two horses
+which he drove eleven miles an hour for four successive hours; also
+spoke of the great mercantile house of Parish & Co., Hamburgh and New
+York. One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are 102 in
+the fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage.
+
+
+SUNDAY, MAY 18TH.
+
+Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out my better
+clothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. Found the wind had
+continued moderately favourable. A long discussion at breakfast
+respecting smoking. Mr. Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars for
+thirty days together, and did not consider it hurtful when taken
+properly into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly as
+generally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed us this morning.
+At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious service and seats were
+brought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read the Church of England service, and
+Mr. Grindrod preached a good practical sermon. In the evening the
+Captain proposed to have an evening service, which was readily acceded
+to by Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. read the evening service and Mr. G. preached
+the sermon. In the morning service the prayer for the royal family had
+given offence to some of the crew, and therefore on the recommendation
+of the Captain, the prayer was altered into all chief magistrates and
+governors.
+
+
+MONDAY, MAY 19TH.
+
+Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear father, who is
+now still more in my remembrance, and I have frequently to check the
+expectation of seeing him on my return. A truly delightful morning with
+an improved breeze. Passed what is called a black fish[6]. Played a game
+with Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and favourable breeze
+continued. Immediately after dinner I observed a current of yellow water
+about the breadth of the ship's length, and about 1/2 or 3/4 mile on
+each side, and after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who was
+just then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along with
+others and he expressed very great surprise, almost seemed desirous to
+turn the vessel about to look more closely. He had never seen the like
+before, and should have been alarmed had he seen it at the head; could
+only explain it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud had
+melted in that neighbourhood[7]. Had fiddle and dancing particularly
+well done by the steward, cook, and some of the sailors. Played another
+game at chess with Mr. B. and beat him. Although we have had a good fair
+breeze all day we have not seen a single ship.
+
+
+TUESDAY, MAY 20TH.
+
+Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy
+shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at
+a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued
+unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed.
+Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten
+and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was
+quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured
+water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn
+of a whale.
+
+Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed off the table and
+broken; also a tumbler and champagne glass. One gull seen yesterday and
+two stormy petrels follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us,
+partly occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had some
+affecting conversation with Mr. G. respecting my late dear father. A
+fine evening, the wind changed and almost became a calm. The ship
+gradually turned round to get on another tack.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST.
+
+Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. A good deal of
+conversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America it
+seems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels
+in Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze
+refreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm.
+Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones to
+sixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; he
+also surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. The
+wind continued favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. and
+lost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have great
+difficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting my late dear
+father on my return.
+
+
+THURSDAY, MAY 22ND.
+
+Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found the wind
+slight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, all the sails
+squared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. The wind about one,
+changed more south. A long sit and chat upon the helm house with Mr.
+Grindrod. A very good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not a
+vessel all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance.
+Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation of meeting
+again my dear father.
+
+
+FRIDAY, MAY 23RD.
+
+Got up before six having not been able to sleep since 2 o'clock, such
+noises, pitching and rockings as surely never were heard before. Found
+the sea greatly agitated and much foam. I asked one of the seamen if he
+did not call this a stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. The
+Captain admitted that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all day
+and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once,
+and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we
+found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish
+to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of
+the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits
+depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster
+complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain
+Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. In the morning
+the Captain persuaded me to go to rest again and I lay down after
+dinner.
+
+
+SATURDAY, MAY 24TH.
+
+I passed a much better night and got up at half past six; was gratified
+to learn from the Mate who is not usually encouraging, that we had been
+making way in the night; pointed out a vessel passing us on the east.
+The Captain is making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62
+voyages; been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, very
+cold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. A day of
+business amongst the steerage passengers exchanging provisions. Much
+warmer on deck after dinner. Had some conversation in French with one of
+the sailors who is a Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatly
+pleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of the ship.
+Find the seamen are only engaged at New York to Liverpool and back,
+their wages paid during that time; this is the same even with the cook.
+The Captain every Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all the
+cabin passengers.
+
+
+SUNDAY, MAY 25TH.
+
+Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden squall arose
+that tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. On going upon deck the sea
+was much agitated, it rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend.
+These sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf Stream;
+but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not come on earlier; it
+continued to blow hard all day. Seated at the stern watching the petrels
+and feeding them with bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning and
+another in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit out
+and enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in the cabin and a
+prayer made by Mr. Grindrod.
+
+
+MONDAY, MAY 26TH.
+
+Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began to roll
+about. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which was the cause of the
+motion, which continued all forenoon.
+
+Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to Syria; and also at
+looking at some amusing caricatures of Cruickshank's. The wind fair but
+very little of it, yesterday a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact we
+have only had once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A great
+many gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, and few petrels.
+Had we gone over the banks we might have had some diversion in fishing,
+but the Captain was afraid of encountering the ice.
+
+In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but generally very
+foggy weather and changeable, either calms or storms. This has been a
+very unpleasant day, a calm with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, or
+even Mother Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal of
+champagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish.
+
+
+TUESDAY, MAY 27TH.
+
+Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship rolled and
+pitched more than I expected. When I went upon deck I was agreeably
+surprised; a very good wind from the north bearing us on very well.
+
+The scene diversified by a grampus[8] 8 to 10 feet long, and a flying
+fish which is rather larger than a swallow. About ten spoke to a vessel
+from Jamaica to London. Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour,
+Syria, Egypt, etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dear
+father's departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to some
+serious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At dinner Mr. Jackson
+enquired what was the matter, upon which Mr. G. very kindly explained
+the cause. Commenced reading B. H.'s[9] Notes on Chili, Peru, etc., he
+is a very pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out about
+this time.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH.
+
+Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may lead to a
+change of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continued
+heavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased,
+but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossing
+the Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland but
+the Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if there was anything
+done by the Almighty which he could wish altered it would be the Gulf
+Stream; there is not only a current against us, but great uncertainty as
+to calms and storms. Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with us
+to-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the passengers trying
+to put their legs over an American flour cask, and so raise themselves
+over it upon their feet. Went upon deck and was much pleased with the
+appearance of the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; the
+sides of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the ocean
+was covered apparently by fire occasioned by the breakers. Passed the
+day without seeing either sail or fish.
+
+
+THURSDAY, MAY 29TH.
+
+Passed another comfortable night, found we had been getting on pretty
+well; nearly out of the Stream with the intention of shooting across the
+first fair wind.
+
+The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged nine months. A
+stone with two lumps of iron are tied up to sink the child. At six the
+bell tolled, the little thing was placed upon a door and when the
+Minister, Mr. H. came to that part of committing the body to the deep it
+was slid off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten by
+fish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon deck, her name
+Johnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; the husband I believe in
+America.
+
+Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29th
+May, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadiness
+but this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday's
+debauch. Mr. Seaton says bastardy is not so common in America but
+always charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he
+never walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system,
+either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary.
+
+
+FRIDAY, MAY 30TH.
+
+Passed another good night though dreaming more of home and the
+warehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind and that it had been the
+same during the night; continued so all day but the rolling of the ship
+on going to breakfast made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; in
+fact we pitched and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part of
+the day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should consider it
+the most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, no fish or anything to
+divert the tedium.
+
+This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. Frequent jelly-like
+substances floating on the ocean of various colours formed like a
+cockscomb commonly called Portuguese men-of-war.
+
+
+SATURDAY, MAY 31ST.
+
+Another good night, found the wind favourable but not much of this most
+of the night. A warm political discussion; I stated that America and not
+Dan O'Connell was the great political agitator. Speaking of the immense
+salaries paid in England I said the Government was more in fault in
+granting them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain Kenney
+said he should like to subscribe to send the radicals out of the
+country. I thought it would be better to employ the subscriptions in
+getting all the democrats away. A dense mist continued on the surface of
+the ocean till eleven, when it suddenly disappeared. A ship discovered
+by Mr. Grindrod.
+
+I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment of my dear
+father. Finished the second volume of Hall's "Journal of a Voyage to
+Chili, etc." Learned from Captain Kenney that the journey from London to
+Moscow by Hamburgh, Lübeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a week for
+about £34; that there is no difficulty with regard to passports, but
+that you must advertise every district visited in the "St. Petersburgh
+Gazette," and that you are leaving there in three weeks; you can then
+stop that time but no longer in one place. At dinner we had some
+interesting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting future
+punishment and the different degrees; the latter I was glad to find was
+the creed of Mr. G. between whom and Mr. B. the conversation was carried
+on. On going on deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did not
+approve of such discussions.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST.
+
+Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length crossed the Gulf
+Stream; sensibly colder. The wind had not been favourable since last
+night. A very considerable mist occasioned by the warm water in the
+Stream coming in contact with the cold atmosphere--very cold.
+
+The morning service according to the Church of England read by Mr. H.
+but not so many present on account of the cold--again in the evening
+with a sermon from Mr. G. from John, 14th chap., 15th verse, "If ye love
+me keep my commandments." Captain K. said he did not consider himself a
+gambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or £400 a night; once at Paris he
+lost a good deal. Since then he had made it a rule not to give checks,
+but merely stake what he had with him; when he lost the large sums they
+were out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not do for
+sea, port for instance; had several bottles changed because not so
+clear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold and a contrary wind; all
+the crew seemed to be getting out of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he cost
+his father £3000 for the 2-3/4 years he was learning the spinning
+business; he admitted he had been very gay.
+
+
+MONDAY, JUNE 2ND.
+
+A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention of going again to
+America. Delighted to find the weather milder and the wind favourable;
+it continued thus all day; rain came on about three; after dinner there
+was thick mist which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours with
+the helmsman and others.
+
+Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and Harrison. Mentioned
+Coates with whom they did as much as 10,000 pieces annually. Commenced
+reading "The Refugee in America," a work by Mrs. Trollope[10].
+
+
+TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD.
+
+Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared we might run
+foul of some vessel, and after four we had a good deal of rolling. On
+getting up I was greatly disappointed to find the wind had been west all
+night, and also very cold indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw the
+spouting of a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. Several
+other fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged in cod fishing off
+the banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are now within soundings.
+
+Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The wind continued hard
+and cold; by "hard" is meant that no change can be expected till it dies
+naturally away. Another child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and I
+engaged in reading together "The Refugee." No fish to be seen. The day
+has been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable for the poor
+children afflicted with measles.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH.
+
+Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little progress, the wind
+still unfavourable. Another child dead of the measles. To reconcile the
+mother to interment in the deep, a coffin was ordered. About one both
+children were placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwark
+had been taken away. Mr. G. officiated in consequence of Mr. H.'s
+indisposition, and on committing them to the deep the coffin did not
+sink. A great many passengers ran immediately to the stern whence it was
+observed for more than ten minutes, one passenger protesting that he
+still saw it, after others had declared that it had sunk; so that what
+was intended as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body had sunk
+instantly.
+
+Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being so much warmer
+we were all in better spirits. A most glorious sunset this evening. The
+cook considered to be very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening with
+some of the sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drink
+than usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH.
+
+Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind had continued
+favourable all night.
+
+After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 letters, many of
+them double, treble, etc., besides some hundreds of parcels, with a
+great many newspapers most of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i.e. half
+past eleven, a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail was
+immediately taken in--rain and much colder, also much rocking of the
+ship; we have to be thankful that it has happened now, rather than in
+the night and especially when nearer land. Immediately after dinner one
+of the most terrible rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses were
+broken this day than on any former one. About two we had quite a thunder
+storm with very heavy rain. After dinner we went to the stern and had
+the most terrible heave, and such a sea as we had never beheld before
+and all this at the end of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms,
+tried to fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful.
+Yesterday a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went down about
+four but the sea continued rolling; in fact it must have blown harder
+from some other part to have raised the sea so much.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH.
+
+Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the ship rolling so
+much. Most truly delighted to find that we had had favourable wind since
+eleven, and now with this wind from N.E. which is likely to be more
+permanent we may fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there came
+on a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it became
+necessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger sea broke over than
+any I had yet seen. About two it lessened and the sail was again
+increased. After dinner, about five, the delightful word "Land" was
+announced which made us all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deck
+and was just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a most
+agreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke over the ship
+than I had seen before, and now at six we are sailing in smooth water.
+
+After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings became
+saddened by the recollection of never again beholding my dear father,
+and these no doubt will be my sensations when I get back to my native
+land. Another most glorious sunset, a cloud covering the upper part of
+the low coast of Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made it
+have the appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautiful
+clouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH.
+
+A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to help us on. At
+noon another child died and was interred. Very hot. The Jersey coast
+seen this morning. Mr. Seaton, a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/-
+worth this voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward--also wine bill 10
+dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides 16 lost at
+cards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of the coast. Long Island a
+very low sandy shore. Unfavourable breeze till after dinner when all at
+once it changed. A beautiful sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, and
+one from Ireland filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five men
+from a revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an account
+of the cases of merchandise and passengers; he appeared a pleasant
+sharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamen
+sounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came
+on board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been
+towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, and
+brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem the
+tide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head and
+snuffing the land breeze.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH.
+
+A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half past
+six. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 miles
+off the quarantine--got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the _Royal
+William_, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe.
+
+Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we have to anchor to
+stem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about two, became delirious. Saw a
+steam boat I proposed joining at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed to
+think it could not be done without offending the Captain. I ventured to
+mention it to him, mentioning Mr. B.'s illness. He said he could have no
+objection and would join us. The flag was hoisted, but either he was
+previously engaged or refused to assist us. Got into the boat hanging on
+the side of our ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us.
+As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many porpoises. Got on shore
+at Staten Island at seven o'clock; stept across the _Hercules_, an
+immense steamer; the land quite strange to my feet, the air quite
+fragrant and the grass delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom.
+Took tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also turnips,
+radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out and saw many fire-flies
+and heard all sorts of noises from grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to the
+hospital for a doctor to attend Mr. B.
+
+
+MONDAY, JUNE 9TH.
+
+Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant morning.
+Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, had slept only two hours,
+but thought this caused by a powerful medicine. On walking or still more
+on standing still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship.
+
+Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built with shingles.
+
+Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the hospital
+washhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large dragon-flies. 95 degrees in
+the shade. A couple of oxen drawing a cart. Paid 12-1/2 cents for
+washing the clothes, 17 articles. For one day's entertainment at the
+Nautilus Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, also a
+plate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat worked ahead,
+instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple 37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents.
+Called upon Francis Hall on account of Mr. Grindrod.
+
+At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, whether one
+attends the meals or not. Set off to call upon Thomas Dean; found him
+ill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. just going into the straw. Complained
+of business being very bad and likely to be so for the next two months.
+Rent of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by taking the
+wrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring I was 2-1/2 miles from the
+Hotel. On getting in, found the table set out, partook of a little ham,
+and went to bed, pretty well tired. T. D. cautioned me against over
+exertion.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH.
+
+Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning of the night. I
+also awoke, found myself very warm and feared I had done too much.
+However soon fell asleep. Rose soon after six--another brilliant
+morning.
+
+Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. At half past
+seven a gong sounded, the same repeated at eight, the latter being the
+signal for breakfast. A long table with bread, all sorts of fish, meat,
+cakes, strawberries, attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T.
+Dean and he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also in
+exchanging my dollars which are at par or 4_s._ 6_d._ making 2-3/4 in my
+favour. Went to the auction and am told that the greatest part of
+British goods are disposed of in this way; when once advertised they
+must be sold as people will not lose their time in inspection; all
+depends on the scarcity with regard to pieces, therefore requires great
+care in watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-water
+made palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters in my
+portmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of both sexes. All sorts
+of meat cooked in all ways; the peas sweetened as in Italy. Dessert
+chiefly oranges and strawberries.
+
+Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall.
+Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like
+those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge
+also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are
+sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of
+the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning
+with some thunder.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH.
+
+Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to
+the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of wood
+put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just
+in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a
+most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large
+cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built a
+house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and
+occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child
+being dead.
+
+Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called
+upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to
+their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called
+upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return.
+Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him;
+mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful
+oranges at 1/2_d._, also a pine for 10_d._ Then called at the American
+Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him.
+Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and
+down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold
+very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to
+put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the
+bag.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH.
+
+Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of
+Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton
+150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen
+who take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon
+stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted
+away till frost comes.
+
+Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from
+Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick
+of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but
+for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been
+frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was
+forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I
+engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17
+years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved
+to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite
+astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B.
+greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going
+to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau,
+and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike
+gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce.
+Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an
+acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and
+bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder
+by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The
+estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by
+mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five
+horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to
+find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to
+the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising
+at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work,
+butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters,
+etc.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH.
+
+Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set
+out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit
+them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the
+steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on
+the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and
+view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters.
+Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's.
+After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long
+way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who
+waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H.
+not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee
+that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with gilt
+pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable;
+the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table
+set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all
+in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal
+of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had
+only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little
+tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am
+advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead
+of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the
+flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the
+night.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH.
+
+Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down
+street before breakfast.
+
+The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon
+Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me
+through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine,
+also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint,
+where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and
+then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die
+and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process
+of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of
+revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value
+exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that
+planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down.
+Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own
+water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended,
+found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others.
+We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both.
+Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went
+into a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town,
+but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome
+edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky.
+
+Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much
+coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat
+without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that
+the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as
+light.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH.
+
+Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best
+bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving
+away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to
+keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two
+Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of
+steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a
+column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr.
+Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing
+chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H.
+to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an
+interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a
+pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where
+an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden
+bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting
+discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening
+service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"
+
+
+MONDAY, JUNE 16TH.
+
+Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to
+see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at
+the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time
+found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did
+not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen,
+some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on
+their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very
+savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it.
+
+Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to
+Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my
+uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill,
+but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the
+locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to
+present to C. D. and Mr. B.
+
+Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him.
+Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a
+store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to
+make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at
+his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago
+having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling
+it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first
+sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or
+two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied
+me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle
+having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done
+it.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH.
+
+Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than
+five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office
+and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh
+1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works
+immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars.
+That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr.,
+that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12
+months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a
+public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown
+corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since,
+was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past
+four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather
+depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of
+my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his
+passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his
+memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty
+dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an
+hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him
+and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two
+women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the
+pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in
+less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave,
+attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a
+numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH.
+
+About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of
+lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed,
+and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some
+time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a
+perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with
+redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it
+was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the
+worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who
+did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over
+to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr.
+Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out
+together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson
+and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne
+with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three
+daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where
+vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation,
+such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence
+we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form;
+all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for
+one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the
+Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the
+Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent
+the evening at Mr. Hulme's.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH.
+
+Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he
+fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school
+companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned
+by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at
+nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone
+from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were
+removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired
+about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with
+mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago.
+Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed
+the college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the city
+entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two
+trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a
+biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on
+account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very
+clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection
+of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished
+people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor,
+invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr.
+Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards
+high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr.
+Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH.
+
+Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon
+after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore.
+Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with
+Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a
+very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible
+to stand upon deck.
+
+After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with
+me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a
+very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by a
+zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who
+wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column
+of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the
+Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange.
+From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round.
+Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to
+Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned
+writing home from Washington and Boston.
+
+Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and
+singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after
+ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this
+country, being so useful in driving away the flies.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST.
+
+Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated
+and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a
+square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours
+No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel
+more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a
+species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians,
+muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious
+working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering
+over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two
+o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a
+very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the
+evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an
+extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a
+little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven
+years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on
+to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old
+country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or
+Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good.
+Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling
+very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND.
+
+Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said
+had been very vivid.
+
+Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a
+beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon
+Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful
+place something like the _nisi prius_ Court at Lancaster. Each member
+has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps
+enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery
+behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies.
+
+Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no
+particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to
+gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which
+continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set
+off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C.[12] nothing minding, and in
+fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to
+get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the
+storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing
+the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate
+that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made
+pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the
+galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting.
+
+
+MONDAY, JUNE 23RD.
+
+Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a
+pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away
+the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common
+to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if
+made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning
+St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race
+of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York,
+to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room with
+others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and
+papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and
+on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little
+conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which
+had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we
+left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house
+or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six
+times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown
+into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not
+easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked
+through the Dome containing several pictures, the _Declaration of
+Independence_, _Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis_, and _Washington
+giving up his Commission_. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to
+Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had
+made terrible ravages last year at Lexington.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH.
+
+Got up 1/4 before 5. Left Washington at 1/4 before 6. Arrived at
+Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across
+the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very
+well received by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams
+of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille
+presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then
+visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like
+an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some
+cake and wine.
+
+Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very
+few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to
+dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night.
+Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as
+several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against
+the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting
+debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also
+remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon.
+
+R. C. is considered very fond of show--prefers very tight boots, yet has
+four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and
+gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who
+will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4
+dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing
+home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping[14]
+getting £5000 and not spending £500.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH.
+
+Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a
+letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited
+the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to
+Pishey Thompson[15] who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me
+to tea and to bring F. T.
+
+Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of
+Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing
+conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room
+containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also
+several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and
+Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still
+more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals,
+with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by
+the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were left
+open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I
+consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will
+soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we
+expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had
+only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited
+both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and
+well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old
+Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land.
+Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the
+Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's
+where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I
+think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH.
+
+Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution
+necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the
+second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10
+cents.
+
+Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general
+practice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than one
+yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles
+opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of
+grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by
+the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst
+at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to
+Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two
+intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco
+and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on
+the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The
+trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads
+paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut
+Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey,
+and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great
+uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only
+two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses
+kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.
+
+Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three;
+objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself,
+found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are
+slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to
+remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them
+together; the worst are generally disposed of first.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.
+
+Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road
+worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of
+ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at
+Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge
+as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or
+two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed
+boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a
+black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther
+on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees
+rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering
+the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville
+at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling
+especially when jolting.
+
+Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner
+with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great
+quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.
+
+Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the
+driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite
+wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are
+built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or
+dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay
+or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.
+
+Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only
+two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed
+about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured
+man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly
+American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through
+a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and
+left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4
+past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this
+town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the
+spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part
+of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to
+resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite
+astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on
+venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a
+German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three
+others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us.
+
+I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to
+enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a
+terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared
+up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to
+the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we
+should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at
+seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though
+only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though
+not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH.
+
+Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The
+bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four
+but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt
+was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept
+down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the
+degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly
+covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these
+mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from
+Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the
+water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an
+elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a
+family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two
+daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in
+London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted
+reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to
+Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The
+hill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is the
+back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and
+westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been
+so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees
+that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have
+been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A
+double-bedded room.
+
+
+MONDAY, JUNE 30TH.
+
+Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress.
+There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of
+the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was
+returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman.
+Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak.
+
+The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a
+curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock,
+1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear
+20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees,
+those below looking mere shrubs.
+
+As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down,
+therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside
+the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, got
+supper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three.
+Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of
+the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The
+names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had
+the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather
+mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JULY 1ST.
+
+Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two
+little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten;
+these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A
+beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains
+of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on
+good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another
+young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven
+last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is
+pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on
+both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the
+surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would
+continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
+
+Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with
+passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got
+outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted
+on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a
+pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On
+descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on
+the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded
+the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at
+Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered
+the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the
+lightning and the shaking of the vessel.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.
+
+Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be
+adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water.
+Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into
+the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of
+hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including
+breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy
+singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and
+liberty."
+
+Arrived at Maysville at half past one.
+
+Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and
+ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly
+flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some
+cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday
+a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr.
+Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most
+delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last
+winter but one, 63 feet.
+
+Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high
+and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often
+passing up and down this noble river.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.
+
+Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till
+eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put
+down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder
+which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here,
+three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies.
+It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and
+breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses
+revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or
+ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and
+worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came
+to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon
+juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had
+nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and
+Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable
+regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr.
+McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten
+o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds
+in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good
+deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The
+land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JULY 4TH.
+
+Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.;
+rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that
+the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He
+offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums
+announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in
+an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks
+was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of
+his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington
+and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a
+brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married
+and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house.
+Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement
+and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the
+latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised
+Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles;
+several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to
+enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.
+
+Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater,
+but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A
+gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana
+cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any
+children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side,
+turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks'
+brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or
+three hours till the stage left at 12.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JULY 5TH.
+
+Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took
+special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way.
+The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep.
+Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more
+drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor
+and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone
+macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg
+climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable
+breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On
+coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge;
+changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot
+between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt
+less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for
+some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two
+miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn
+nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information.
+Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with
+spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again
+when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JULY 6TH.
+
+Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast
+with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office,
+for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected
+immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a
+very large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, and
+boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New
+Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.
+
+Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual
+discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes
+known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist,
+the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor
+blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times,
+they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and
+children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant
+chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles
+through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man
+had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered
+to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from
+the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever
+heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other,
+head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous
+language would be designated only a good moral sermon.
+
+Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.
+
+
+MONDAY, JULY 7TH.
+
+Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not
+much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in
+the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.
+
+Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented
+me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on
+the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him
+to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn
+out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and
+raisins. Dined about half past one.
+
+A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly
+worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too
+speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six
+took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my
+coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the
+chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the
+_Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky,
+beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers
+with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with
+much thunder.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JULY 8TH.
+
+Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small
+of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given
+me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch,
+dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into
+the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_,
+another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when
+she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow.
+The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was
+enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M.
+
+1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry,
+8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid
+6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten
+miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent
+bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a
+better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk
+for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that
+is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by
+running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage
+to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like
+mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost
+everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH.
+
+Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such
+roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through
+pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small
+farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and
+muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a
+national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have
+been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud,
+so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a
+flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of
+granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to
+be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was
+informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the
+night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get
+out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some
+time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got
+in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing
+or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JULY 10TH.
+
+Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two
+passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville
+half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and
+poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as
+paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag
+chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A
+large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found
+the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some
+coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally
+the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled
+with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too
+late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati
+at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours
+we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others
+in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the
+road, especially being confined a day or two in some little
+uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and
+should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we
+have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly,
+covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the
+country on both sides of the Ohio.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.
+
+Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in
+consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a
+windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the
+position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no
+boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little
+earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by
+disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and
+actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without
+finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North
+American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.
+
+Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild
+beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by
+seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had
+worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts
+his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the
+animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary
+(only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past
+seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky
+remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from
+conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have
+been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had
+often seen.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JULY 12TH.
+
+Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach
+quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country
+is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the
+remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home
+by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers
+lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter
+a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on
+his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson
+(?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them
+make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the
+aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post
+Office, but again disappointed.
+
+Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is
+one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the
+Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley
+surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our
+English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear
+half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed
+by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this
+by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any
+horses' tails docked.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JULY 13TH.
+
+Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the
+first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of
+a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one;
+hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several
+large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and
+excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in
+America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy,
+a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a
+Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so
+clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520
+dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the
+Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile
+rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained
+with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it
+is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath
+evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very
+splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England.
+Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25
+cents.
+
+
+MONDAY, JULY 14TH.
+
+Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the
+passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel
+uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by
+being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the
+same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep.
+
+Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I
+parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old
+intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done
+very well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic
+afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but
+luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm
+and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a
+glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage
+filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked
+with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at
+half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went
+upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a
+boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a
+trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose;
+without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be
+hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing
+intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might
+improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but
+were objected to as unconstitutional.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.
+
+Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than
+pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old
+Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one
+we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon
+discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the
+steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8
+A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be
+late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one
+of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most
+delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on
+the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by
+Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before
+dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the
+ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2
+for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which
+a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture
+was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and
+recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M.
+a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn;
+an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a
+change in the English Ministry.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.
+
+Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time
+for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the
+boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory
+nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his
+lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.;
+found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived
+at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls;
+engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten
+nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the
+Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense
+sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe;
+returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between
+the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous
+Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was
+blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the
+air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the
+tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as
+well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground
+and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.
+
+Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid
+the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A
+favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water
+in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my
+baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who
+came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and
+set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the
+hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it
+proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After
+changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the
+Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on
+trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and
+descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed
+under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is
+narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one
+place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must
+say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a
+tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much
+is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit
+might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of
+the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the
+Falls alone by moonlight.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.
+
+Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still
+more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole
+Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the
+water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too
+dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in
+gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at
+eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a
+bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake.
+Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out,
+found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to
+Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of
+our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East
+Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian
+and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past
+nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops
+closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully
+occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints,
+supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's
+monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars
+for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the
+_Great Britain_ to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the
+cabin spacious and neat.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JULY 19TH.
+
+Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on
+tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper
+containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a
+conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent
+gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour
+in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few
+dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to
+make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He
+thought there was much less learning among the young men in America;
+they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel
+independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the
+control of the parents unless wealthy.
+
+Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four;
+got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake
+Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher
+complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water
+considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young
+men that are purposing going to Quebec.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JULY 20TH.
+
+During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got
+up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little
+qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast,
+the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on
+shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy
+instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced;
+then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest.
+Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and
+the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in
+our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts,
+etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes to
+this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old
+England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old
+Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy
+and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty
+little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after
+nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying;
+still I shall go on, hoping for the best.
+
+
+MONDAY, JULY 21ST.
+
+Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English
+for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and
+two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning
+nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines.
+Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and
+island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most
+delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one
+side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they
+are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20]
+1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in
+the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different
+to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at
+St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of
+them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into
+the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water
+towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old
+female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little
+one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic
+chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood.
+Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more
+Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my
+visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have
+been spent delightfully.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.
+
+Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear
+father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the
+mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good
+deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so
+pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some
+ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the
+Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side
+and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked
+to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found
+nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just
+before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not
+going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the
+agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers,
+but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more
+passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda
+sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to
+be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen
+all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal;
+fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD.
+
+Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage
+office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr.
+Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder!
+Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the
+wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn,
+London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96
+degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In
+addition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_
+so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been
+unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the
+news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen
+at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this
+house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these
+circumstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a noble
+vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore,
+a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera;
+she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the
+young man.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.
+
+Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes
+not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market;
+Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables,
+also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red
+currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different
+kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer,
+will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at
+4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with
+neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric
+collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late;
+the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before
+8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour
+so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried
+to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer,
+but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s.
+The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found
+his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's
+shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who
+had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there.
+William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case
+during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the
+cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles
+off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital
+and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.
+
+
+FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.
+
+Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A
+thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away
+the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a
+calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years.
+Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space
+on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his
+grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas
+engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three
+miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected.
+His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave
+the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his
+connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most
+villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would
+fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to
+Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and
+were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and
+there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25
+dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at
+the Cathedral.
+
+
+SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.
+
+Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at
+six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all
+my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls;
+a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed
+with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a
+strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked
+with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave
+stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a
+magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous
+staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed
+over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there,
+but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed
+in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found
+two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for
+going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at
+seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the
+latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he
+was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.
+
+
+SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.
+
+Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and
+danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first
+time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on
+the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as
+security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at
+half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the
+Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of
+us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for
+two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to
+find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to
+meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was
+getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me;
+got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of
+agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were
+all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the
+four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St.
+Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with
+four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not
+waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved
+very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did
+not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two
+dollars. Arrived after twelve.
+
+
+MONDAY, JULY 28TH.
+
+Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish,
+perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very
+nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick
+cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and
+spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores
+low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2
+dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps.
+The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the
+spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw.
+The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all
+sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked
+a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of
+port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the
+waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without
+once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer
+came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they
+contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with
+distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an
+avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the
+water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to
+attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after
+luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in
+the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let
+down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely
+stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer
+made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs:
+afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.
+
+
+TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.
+
+A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging,
+breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at
+Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of
+Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two
+saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked
+with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side
+two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and
+also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about
+two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines
+are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting;
+several islands.
+
+Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars
+he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he
+then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about
+beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also
+whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and
+breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH.
+
+Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool,
+a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a
+place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on
+the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a
+little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the
+river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very
+delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement
+being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel
+to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150
+to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen
+had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and
+gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the
+"American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a
+gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball
+at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one
+another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156.
+
+
+THURSDAY, JULY 31ST.
+
+Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors
+leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring.
+Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a
+gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the
+place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the
+carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to
+have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage
+over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same
+on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and
+engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut
+through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an
+interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the
+river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs.
+unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving
+mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a
+grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the
+Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a
+magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane
+manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2.
+
+
+FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST.
+
+Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down
+the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by
+another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with
+the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of
+a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed
+rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had
+left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his
+regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a
+good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into
+slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at
+once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and
+tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2
+cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep
+land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous
+and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better
+fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at
+Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in
+the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America.
+Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight.
+Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room.
+
+
+SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND.
+
+Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed
+manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past
+one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly
+painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly
+with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty
+miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence
+there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove
+and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with
+the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became
+cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles
+when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and
+one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable,
+not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at
+Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk
+and bread.
+
+
+SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.
+
+Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for
+Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island,
+during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His
+colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss
+of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's
+Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v;
+but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after
+kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the
+elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar.
+At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I
+went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased
+by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29
+v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to
+the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very
+nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars,
+good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation;
+well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to
+hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.
+
+
+MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.
+
+Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and
+returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman.
+Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old,
+chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the
+Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver
+and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over
+Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is
+superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the
+commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The
+monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another
+side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to
+the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way
+back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon
+Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a
+magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to
+be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden
+bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a
+fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take
+tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to
+Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs.
+Livingstone.
+
+
+TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.
+
+Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage
+would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting
+passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour
+in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot
+day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a
+sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at
+Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet
+manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced
+to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way
+connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving
+rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same
+way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the
+Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling
+over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied
+into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So
+extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two
+o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all
+turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for
+breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4
+hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed,
+the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of
+different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not
+arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven.
+Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most
+disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this
+morning from James Dean.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.
+
+Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found
+it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was
+out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough
+to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well
+stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British
+Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry
+dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they
+were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks,
+also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the
+prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring,
+brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak;
+and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious
+lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at
+3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a
+sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing
+between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to
+sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off
+and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine
+(Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a
+Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this
+interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and
+quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again.
+On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was
+disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr.
+Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the
+city.
+
+
+THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH.
+
+Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea
+cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted
+the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went
+within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the
+land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small
+factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in
+Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to
+Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after
+dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in
+town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I
+should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst
+not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on
+immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my
+feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the
+sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of
+milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian
+discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a
+pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest
+day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys
+bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found
+a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of
+milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.
+
+
+FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH.
+
+Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill,
+whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building
+for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for
+William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if
+I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious
+fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined
+with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and
+walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by
+the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took
+some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about
+100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully
+warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge,
+eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and
+drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was
+sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired
+after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and
+just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave
+without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with
+me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the
+Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very
+well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.
+
+
+SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH.
+
+Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit
+Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18
+miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to
+G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much
+of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not
+know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear
+is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is
+George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there
+is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet
+Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to
+interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been
+comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a
+cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's
+eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort
+of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well
+furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be
+later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still
+living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann
+the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased
+to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark,
+thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very
+good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some
+time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife
+not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not
+doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road.
+
+
+SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH.
+
+Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at
+Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the
+steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up
+and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five
+miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New
+York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff
+fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with
+five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with
+three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take
+this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one
+was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A
+stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of
+worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was
+Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and
+heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved
+Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room
+with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three.
+I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and
+found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends
+for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I
+had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to
+hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation
+numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large
+proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay
+where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding
+the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant
+bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with
+10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have
+been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability.
+
+
+MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH.
+
+Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the
+three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon
+four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping
+ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post
+Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" × 24". Set off to visit Dr.
+Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the
+house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the
+same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and
+shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into
+the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing
+and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a
+stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and
+was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with
+his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive,
+and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in
+better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at
+Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen
+noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his
+studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents.
+Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so
+that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took
+coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on
+deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman
+told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took
+possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large
+waves.
+
+
+TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.
+
+Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes
+quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and
+gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and
+put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles
+from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and
+put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very
+narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A
+fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf
+about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to
+the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and
+got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking
+thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law;
+he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches,
+afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of
+standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two
+peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had
+purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered
+it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black
+waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out
+in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another
+part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens.
+Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain.
+Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did
+not see the infant.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.
+
+Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly
+infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large
+swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito.
+Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and
+read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to
+bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in
+consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but
+amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes
+and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and
+prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced
+dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places
+at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of
+fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head
+of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After
+dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters
+at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from
+English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past
+nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down,
+overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and
+died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No.
+155.
+
+
+THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.
+
+Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I
+expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings
+coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with
+these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a
+little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York
+a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked
+into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of
+psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in
+Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D.
+through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles
+(to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the
+usual charge 6_d._ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half
+price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great
+inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito
+bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse;
+found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls
+narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River
+to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by
+means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The
+tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found
+Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and
+talking all the time.
+
+
+FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.
+
+Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a
+good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played
+some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the
+island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson.
+Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked,
+so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others
+gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other
+side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.
+
+Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance
+of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm
+tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning.
+Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there
+was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still
+itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.
+
+
+SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH.
+
+Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not
+coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed
+on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_,
+found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just
+what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer,
+the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than
+usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is
+lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul
+in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the
+end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and
+the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish
+(sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water.
+
+A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three;
+got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain
+1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13
+miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8;
+having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another
+piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible;
+very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.
+
+
+SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH.
+
+Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of
+the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the
+top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst
+of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with
+fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake
+glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side
+mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a
+delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to
+the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to
+project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is
+hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of
+the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most
+magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful
+prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time
+and friends I could pass a week very well.
+
+I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going
+and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our
+English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as
+soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the
+stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed.
+Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant
+chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been
+several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8;
+heavy rain.
+
+
+MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH.
+
+Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage;
+by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at
+Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver;
+fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the
+table part of the mountain.
+
+Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A
+delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying
+the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four
+miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12
+miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates,
+a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room.
+Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of
+the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place.
+At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been
+widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid
+2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a
+very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of
+bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the
+top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but
+I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but
+it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the
+Americans that I made no distinction.
+
+
+TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH.
+
+Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait
+nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage
+was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents
+for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the
+driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst
+themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the
+Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set
+off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me
+not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost
+at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a
+clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control
+over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the
+steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of
+some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling
+considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles
+off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well
+have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something
+interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing
+me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of
+getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights.
+Put away the wool from my sore.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH.
+
+Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to
+Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going
+13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found
+him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals
+improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than
+the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the
+country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it
+should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been
+called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits
+without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the
+Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting
+account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling
+to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13
+miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on
+with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out
+to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives
+here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and
+older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her
+mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on
+entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried
+out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty
+of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A
+sheep was killed.
+
+
+THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST.
+
+Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry
+and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old
+features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An
+American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like
+crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a
+very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of
+hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to
+make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the
+slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side
+of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two
+horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists
+of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes
+resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same
+at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the
+maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the
+sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning
+of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over
+by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a
+supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter
+from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably
+settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us.
+
+
+FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND.
+
+John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl
+employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most
+cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a
+carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for
+her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah
+rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha
+the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person
+and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old
+friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating
+him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of
+visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal
+called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good
+food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came
+about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they
+eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked;
+both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently
+catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the
+best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons.
+
+
+SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD.
+
+The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be
+burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for
+fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable
+and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like
+stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was
+first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but
+was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be
+insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced
+spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the
+heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a
+good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often
+running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The
+battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.
+
+
+SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH.
+
+Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to
+the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other
+horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we
+should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in
+winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister
+Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very
+orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the
+mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns,
+chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's
+Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to
+make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed
+to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with
+the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into
+disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no
+service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies,
+cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through
+the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th
+of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we
+chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier.
+
+
+MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH.
+
+After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the
+waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with
+a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal
+about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable,
+but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be
+possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most
+satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see
+them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that
+there were very few round about but what were more or less in their
+debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of
+Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann
+the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good
+tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but
+cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but
+he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat.
+
+
+TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH.
+
+In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow
+at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send;
+opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the
+stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected,
+particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see
+each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God
+bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the
+way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded
+in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very
+disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an
+English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to
+his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey
+a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid
+fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad
+to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along
+the locusts had been destroyed.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH.
+
+Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut
+and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if
+no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge.
+Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one
+part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and
+all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one,
+without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a
+draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a
+wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for
+25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the
+horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on
+account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was
+the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only
+one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the
+mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a
+shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived
+soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been
+expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go
+over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got
+coffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars.
+
+
+THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH.
+
+A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got
+to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal.
+Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and
+been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat
+with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one
+about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very
+pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave
+me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to
+ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the
+second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have
+been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us.
+
+
+FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH.
+
+Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast,
+good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with
+Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he
+died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr.
+Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A
+most delightful morning.
+
+
+SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH.
+
+Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic
+priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a
+pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at
+Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately
+been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path
+covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal
+is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to
+Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and
+cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a
+connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty
+waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically
+situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left
+my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting
+drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys
+like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and
+river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of
+Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven.
+Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to
+Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia.
+Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8.
+
+
+SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST.
+
+Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood
+suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little
+drizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the
+drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the
+woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had
+coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared
+and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who
+burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling
+shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said
+these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most
+beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5
+or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is
+generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the
+White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a
+good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and
+changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the
+evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12
+and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well
+but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most
+influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two
+natures.
+
+
+MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST.
+
+Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely
+fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not
+having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed
+an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to
+N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with
+Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found
+him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not
+seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read
+the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr.
+Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he
+lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and
+carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man
+greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well
+acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the
+Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England.
+Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking
+trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr.
+Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but
+cheerful.
+
+
+TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND.
+
+Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M.
+Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw
+a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without
+much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs.
+Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr.
+Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into
+Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a
+younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor
+on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger
+brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper.
+Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the
+streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear
+remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten
+thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD.
+
+Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then
+called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning
+gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston
+advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has
+now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his
+mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a
+companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to
+say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected
+some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and
+his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr.
+Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private
+museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works
+on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection
+of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding
+on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle.
+Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's
+but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard
+some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An
+attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines,
+but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J.
+Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.
+
+
+THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH.
+
+Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of
+everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars;
+vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons
+six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss
+Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther
+Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank
+Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in
+England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a
+mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with
+sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and
+he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon
+the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr.
+Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and
+also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether
+tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called
+again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very
+much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's
+foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in
+Canada; and had children.
+
+
+FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH.
+
+Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy
+writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his
+old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed
+to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find
+out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair
+I scrambled up the wall and read as follows:
+
+ Benjamin and }
+ Deborah      } Franklin.
+
+Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten
+dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He
+and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer.
+Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to
+tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more
+difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two,
+rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a
+dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way
+that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young
+Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn
+farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the
+afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine.
+Slept with young Rollanson.
+
+
+SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH.
+
+Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to
+market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some
+conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little
+gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way,
+part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious
+melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers'
+monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible
+pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat
+under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then
+walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears
+12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins
+and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B.
+plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The
+quantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a
+reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two
+feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at
+length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a
+spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested
+and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and
+daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a
+Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B.
+gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book."
+
+
+SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.
+
+Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian
+arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out
+together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers,
+Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of
+the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to
+Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience
+rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by
+one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined
+in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the
+sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses,
+Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse
+than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday
+when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having
+been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30
+years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are
+made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve
+it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose
+daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected
+person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a
+humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the
+pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a
+large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.
+
+
+MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.
+
+Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing
+letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist
+his brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so;
+having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised
+to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some
+peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined.
+Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following
+morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from
+C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by
+the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the
+D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her
+little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property.
+
+
+TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.
+
+This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to
+Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat,
+and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading
+the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death.
+Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville
+another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon
+Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton,
+woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by
+the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth
+in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so
+experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted
+turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for
+9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's;
+took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for
+two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor
+where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T.
+formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to
+William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for
+Unitarianism.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.
+
+Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the
+steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful
+morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and
+one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very
+perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but
+unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons
+leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the
+neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to
+Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in
+a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the
+last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden
+about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the
+Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr.
+very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking
+better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old
+country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all
+American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of
+the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the
+carriage three dollars.
+
+
+THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.
+
+Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied
+the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to
+the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery
+particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12
+observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first
+but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5
+minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and
+dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point;
+one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr.
+Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on
+the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky
+and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the
+attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two
+of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats;
+a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with
+females.
+
+
+FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.
+
+James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who
+wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in
+drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the
+fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means
+of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart
+suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the
+front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the
+market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred.
+Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has
+been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he
+considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each
+side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the
+Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the
+circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by
+means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by
+the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful
+shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful
+white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful
+road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most
+charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at
+either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre,
+and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met
+Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton
+was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at
+Toronto.
+
+
+SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.
+
+Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron
+Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather
+smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of
+Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and
+agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J.
+Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a
+Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no
+guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a
+mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately
+owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the
+Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through
+the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times.
+Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once
+between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat
+till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs.
+D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.
+
+
+SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.
+
+Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at
+all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of
+enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs.
+B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went
+to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina
+not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all
+extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed
+by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and
+uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with
+young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe,
+also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J.
+D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent
+preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of
+females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham
+Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T.
+desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the
+country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible.
+Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than
+two or three.
+
+
+MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.
+
+Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours.
+Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a
+difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera."
+Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not
+find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who
+gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited
+the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good
+collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of
+different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte
+maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me
+to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of
+going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the
+house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and
+doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be
+mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and
+borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of
+England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight
+carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D.
+made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy
+affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like
+them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up.
+
+
+TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.
+
+Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at
+breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss
+is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another
+copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s
+warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood,
+and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer.
+Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful;
+only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable;
+a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two
+dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the
+passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten.
+Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or
+2-1/2_d._ each.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.
+
+Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up
+felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with
+it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr.
+Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did
+not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I
+would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The
+Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs.
+Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England,
+who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time
+girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she
+could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at
+Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away
+from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be
+considered stout.
+
+
+THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH.
+
+Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for
+breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning
+warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg,
+and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able
+to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three
+slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well
+upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices
+of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to
+Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours
+and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of
+twenty shillings.
+
+
+FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH.
+
+Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant
+dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little
+way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very
+quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had
+been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is
+managed much silenter than with the _Britannia_; a calm all day, the
+evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading
+Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some
+conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards
+insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best
+by a good time piece.
+
+
+SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH.
+
+Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach
+was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him
+without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock,
+going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of
+Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many
+petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X
+upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia.
+Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening
+about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a
+good lunch.
+
+
+SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST.
+
+Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had been
+making about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read before
+breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two
+sermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of the
+steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly,
+but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr.
+Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about the
+talents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book.
+Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had
+mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament
+was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was
+published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of
+printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it
+and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a
+library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated
+of this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's
+"Sermons," one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even of
+our best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. About
+ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze which
+we enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering the
+equinox.
+
+
+MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND.
+
+Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. not a
+very minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the sea
+till last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day the
+same gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but
+admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written home
+the most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80
+degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal
+of Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather sickly,
+such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather.
+
+
+TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD.
+
+Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the wind
+having been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Advice
+to Young Men." A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day;
+air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling
+languid.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH.
+
+Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well all
+night; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourable
+from 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American
+Constitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the
+two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a young
+gentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters.
+Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing."
+
+ The shortest passage to Liverpool
+         15 days 16 hours.
+ The shortest passage to New York
+             17 days.
+                       James L. Wilson,
+                                  _Hibernia._
+
+
+THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH.
+
+Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and the
+last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less.
+About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished.
+In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America,"
+and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. calling
+Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a military
+character, violating every treaty, the English always right; when told
+of B. attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might and
+probably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if
+such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying out
+Church and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or three
+errors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such a
+defender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial character
+of the French.
+
+
+FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH.
+
+Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven
+8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64
+degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom
+extends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened
+and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At three
+passed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small bird
+resembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast.
+The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about
+refusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained
+during the evening.
+
+Difference of time two hours from New York.
+
+
+SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH.
+
+Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sister
+Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast we
+passed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached to
+a sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines.
+All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past,
+passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs,
+supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; very
+cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45.
+
+
+SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH.
+
+Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffe
+and John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had been
+going all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65
+degrees.
+
+After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots;
+the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularly
+between 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the state
+room; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On
+getting money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read three
+of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of the Poor" and "Unjust
+Judges," also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara."
+
+
+MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH.
+
+Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of my
+dear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and then
+coming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south and
+consequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last
+night. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continued
+between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield."
+
+
+TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH.
+
+Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficulty
+in shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, and
+about eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea which
+sprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield."
+One of the sails tore down. At one P.M. observed a brig going westerly;
+the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only a
+part of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke most
+beautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos."
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST.
+
+Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, excepting
+dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourable
+but more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning.
+Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be
+very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced
+towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off.
+
+
+THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.
+
+Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my
+father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one
+of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till
+about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly
+a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind
+with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2
+o'clock. A few porpoises.
+
+
+FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD.
+
+Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleven
+o'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read a
+little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." A fair wind all day, going eleven
+knots; cold though the wind is south-west.
+
+
+SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH.
+
+The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night about
+ten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line of
+packets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have ten
+or twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth
+share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about pay
+with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 years
+old; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French lady
+at Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children.
+A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usual
+exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. At
+dinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good deal
+of factories," declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland
+also acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to
+numbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it might
+be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson's
+Dic.")
+
+
+SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH.
+
+Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made no
+way. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially as
+we approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a
+brig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older
+attended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons."
+A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by the
+Yankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday
+at 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done by
+Captain Wilson.
+
+
+MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH.
+
+Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence of
+the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or six
+knots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4
+knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing
+the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through the
+water and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vessel
+sometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such force
+that I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at
+Shuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares
+with figures making 15 each way.
+
+
+TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH.
+
+Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected,
+that we had had only light winds and made little progress through the
+night. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of
+"Land," we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on
+the horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and also
+Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's "Orations." Soon after
+seeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think I
+should see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has
+been favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About half
+past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale.
+
+
+WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH.
+
+Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passing
+some high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, the
+other outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar
+lighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages.
+Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail
+all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, the
+clouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six a
+lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a
+light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In
+1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat
+alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He
+brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was
+hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably
+increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no
+doubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which
+is the number of the _Hibernia_.
+
+
+THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH.
+
+Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reported
+the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on the
+favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I was
+unconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. Passing
+Great Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the _Archer_ that
+I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came up
+with four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve and
+therefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith
+says, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; the
+boat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft.
+Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a little
+before two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long in
+hauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, too
+late to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on
+shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden.
+Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into the
+Liverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's
+letter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr.
+Crook's.
+
+
+FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH.
+
+Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet,
+3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paid
+for box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage
+from packet, they wanted much more, 6_d._ for calling a car, the carman
+asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enter
+the yard therefore paid another 6_d._ to the porter, leaving me only 2/6
+and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I
+spoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but he
+did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay at
+Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed as
+if I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman who
+was quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to
+strangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed the
+money and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have asked
+him to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name and
+asked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton.
+
+
+SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH.
+
+I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They had
+just dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat little
+dinner.
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS
+
+
+-1-
+
+                                        Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.
+
+    From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON.
+
+My Dear Sir,
+
+Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, the
+bearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native town
+of Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respected
+friend Dr. Taylor.
+
+Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing a
+portion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but great
+men to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when the
+moral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail," one of the most
+happy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days in
+Washington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in your
+store, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness by
+showing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him
+any sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige
+your
+
+                                                  Sincere friend,
+                                                          THOS. HULME.
+
+N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor.
+
+
+-2-
+
+    From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD,
+         Senate Chamber.
+
+                                        Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.
+
+My Dear Sir,
+
+Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. Robert
+Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton,
+who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and who
+intends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be
+still living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted
+with Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please
+introduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish
+him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you may
+render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend
+
+                                                          THOS. HULME.
+
+
+-3-
+
+                                        Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834.
+
+    To Mr. JOHN HULME.
+
+Dear John,
+
+The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in our
+native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good
+country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give him
+some idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it,
+compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee can
+make him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville not
+forgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my
+best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the best
+offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be well
+treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him to
+avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness as
+possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy truly
+affectionate father
+
+                                                          THOS. HULME.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Liverpool.
+
+[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister.
+
+[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton the
+African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these.
+
+[4] Adam Fergusson.
+
+[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to
+prevent the water entering in a storm.
+
+[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga
+Americana).
+
+[7] See a description of this phenomena in the _Nautical Mag._ Oct.
+1832.
+
+[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous.
+
+[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels.
+
+[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope,
+writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30.
+
+[11] Founded in 1831 by Étienne Girard, a native of France, for the
+education of orphans.
+
+[12] Richard Crook, a friend.
+
+[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837.
+
+[14] William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England.
+
+[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston.
+
+[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825.
+
+[17] Since removed as unsafe.
+
+[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and Lake
+Ontario.
+
+[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High
+Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British
+North America."
+
+[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States.
+
+[21] Built in 1823-32.
+
+[22] Built by the French in 1755.
+
+[23] All three had recently been rebuilt.
+
+[24] Died at Boston 1832.
+
+[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775.
+
+[26] _Constitution_, American ship in war of 1813.
+
+[27] William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at
+Boston from 1803 until his death.
+
+[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were
+removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885.
+
+[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feet
+high.
+
+[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804.
+
+[31] Botan. Conocarpus.
+
+[32] A light four-wheeled carriage.
+
+[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842.
+
+[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+    Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing
+    in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular
+    punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood
+
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