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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/24626-8.txt b/24626-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7599295 --- /dev/null +++ b/24626-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4479 @@ +Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Journey to America in 1834 + +Author: Robert Heywood + +Release Date: February 15, 2008 [EBook #24626] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + + + + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 + + + + + A JOURNEY TO + AMERICA IN 1834 + + + BY + + ROBERT HEYWOOD + OF THE PIKE, BOLTON + + [Device] + + + PRIVATELY PRINTED + 1919 + + + + + One hundred copies printed for + the Editor by J. B. Peace, M.A. + at the University Press + Cambridge. October, 1919. + + + + +ROUTE + +(_The numbers indicate pages in the Journal_) + + + Bolton (1). + + Liverpool _to_ New York, _by packet "Britannia." May 1-June 8_ (1-23). + + New York (23-26). + + New York, _by steamer and stage via Princeton and Trenton to_ + Philadelphia (26-30). + + Philadelphia, _by stage via Frankford and Schuylkill and steamer to_ + Baltimore (30-34). + + Baltimore _to_ Washington (34-36). + + Washington, _by stage via Alexandria and Mount Vernon back to_ + Washington (36-37) + + Washington, _by R. Potomac to Fredericksburg, then stage via Orange + Court, Charlottesville, Brookville, over Blue Ridge Mountains to_ + Staunton. _Jenning's Gap, Charrodale, Warm Springs, Hot Springs, + Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Kamley, Deak, Hawk's Nest, R. Kanawha, + Charleston to_ Guyandotte, _thence by steamer down R. Ohio to_ + Maysville (38-44). + + Maysville, _via Hillsburgh, Paris to_ Lexington (44-45). + + Lexington, _by stage via Frankford to_ Louisville (45-47). + + Louisville, _by steamer up R. Ohio to_ Cincinnati (47-48). + + Cincinnati, _by stage via Reading, Lebanon, Wainville and Springfield + to_ Columbus (48-49). + + Columbus, _by stage via Zanesville, Cambridge to_ Wheeling (49-50). + + Wheeling, _by steamer up R. Ohio to Steubenville, thence by stage via + Paris and Florence to_ Pittsburg (51-52). + + Pittsburg, _by stage via Butler, Meadville and Waterford to_ Erie + (52-53). + + Erie, _by steamer on lake, via Portland, Dunkirk and Silver Creek to_ + Buffalo (53-54). + + Buffalo _to_ Falls of Niagara (54-56). + + Niagara, _by steamer on lake via York, Toronto, Port Hope, Cobourg, + Kingston, Brockville, and Prescot to_ Montreal (56-59). + + Montreal, _by steamer on R. St. Lawrence via Cornwall, and Three Rivers + to_ Quebec (60). + + At Quebec, _Beauport Lake and Montmorency Falls, and back to_ Montreal + (60-62). + + Montreal, _by steamer via La Prairie, St. John's, Plattsburg (on Lake + Champlain) to_ Ticonderoga (62-64). + + Ticonderoga, _via Lake St. George to_ Caldwell (64). + + Caldwell, _by stage via Glen Falls, Saratoga, Ballston and Schenectady + to_ Albany (64-66). + + Albany, _by stage via Stockbridge, Seddon, Beckett, Springfield and + Worcester to_ Boston (66-68). + + Boston, _via Cambridge to Lowell and back to_ Boston (69-70). + + Boston, _by stage via Nahant, Pawtucket and Providence to_ Newport + (70-75). + + Newport, _by steamer to_ New York (75-76). + + New York, _by stage to Rockaway and Jamaica and back to_ New York + (76-78). + + New York, _by stage via Catskill Mountains, Cairo, Hobart, Morrisville, + Bloomville to_ Delhi, _Green, Bainbridge to_ Binghampton, + _Montrose, Pike, Orrell, Towanda, Berwick, Sugar Mountain, + Cherrytown, Columbus, Northumberland, Pottsville, Tuscarora, + Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk, Lehigh Gap, Easton to_ Philadelphia (78-92). + + Philadelphia, _by steamer to Trenton, thence to Laurenceville and_ New + York (92-94). + + New York, _by steamer up R. Hudson via West Point on right bank, by + Poughkeepsie on left bank and back to_ New York (95-99). + + Sailed from New York _to_ Liverpool _in packet "Hibernia," Sept. 16_ + (99). + + Reached Liverpool, _October 9_ (109) _and_ Bolton (110). + + + + +NOTES + +BY ROBERT HEYWOOD + + +The _Britannia_, 125 feet long. Number of persons on board: 27 engaged +on the vessel, including the Captain, two mates, two cooks, two stewards +and a carpenter, with nine passengers, making, with 152 steerage +passengers, a total of 188. + + The Captain, Wm. Sketchley, an experienced seaman having crossed + the Atlantic 132 times--very attentive to the wants of the + steerage. + +List of passengers: + + Mr. Bassnett from Preston, has been a good deal in Canada, also in + the West Indies and Holy Land. + + Mr. Hamilton, a clergyman of the Irish Epis., decrepit easy + Christian. + + Mr. Grindrod, a Methodist preacher going to Kingston as a president + from England, possessing more activity and apparent piety. + + Captain Kenney, an officer on half-pay, had seen a good deal of high + life. + + Mr. Cayley, a good-looking but rather coxcomical young man, he and + his parents had resided at St. Petersburg. + + Mr. Webster, a native of the West Indies and had resided there + several years, his father more than 30 years, now resided at + Cheltenham. + + Mr. Seaton, an American, had crossed the Atlantic several times and + also been in the West Indies. + + Mr. Jackson, of Barnsley, rather deaf, but seemed to have more money + than wit; he and his two brothers carry on an extensive + manufactory of linen and woollen business. + + * * * * * + +The _Hibernia_, 108 feet long. + + The Captain, James L. Wilson, of New York, a jolly sort of fellow + with more navigation than religion. + +List of passengers: + + Mr. Street, formerly of Boston, now New York, dealer in dry goods, + chiefly Manchester where he had resided three years; a pleasant + sensible man, rather touchy. + + Mr. Williams, of New York, a rattling talking fellow, not much + excepting having got some dollars, now setting off to make a tour + through Europe for the benefit of his health; talks of soon + learning French and singing; another John Jones. + + Mr. D. Holzknecht, of Trieste, a good-natured sort of person; his + father bound for his return to Italy. + + Mr. Frankland, of Liverpool, a lively intelligent Quaker; been two + or three times to Italy, partly pleasure and partly business; left + in November and had been to New Orleans and Quebec. + + Mr. Hopkins, of Hartford, Mass., a Professor going to London to + purchase philosophical instruments, and purposed attending + lectures in Paris, but not knowing French I recommended him to + Edinburgh which he seemed to approve. + + + + +DIARY OF A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 + + +THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834. + +Left home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three friends, Mr. Baker, +Mr. John Dean, and Cousin Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince's +Dock[1]; found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thence +we proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the kindest +attention. Received several letters of introduction and valuable +information; recommended me to take dollars; sent a clerk with me to the +money exchangers and also lent me £150. Just then I saw James Turner +pass by; he got me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove down +with 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in my +portmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river and 1/4 before 6 +were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. The steamer left us at +half-past nine P.M. near the floating lights. Charged £18. 18. 0.; went +to tea 1/4 past 8, found nine passengers. Had a good deal of +conversation with one of them, an American, who seemed to be acquainted +with all the packets. Said he supposed the _Britannia_ cost 40,000 +dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another passenger had been +in Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of America; thought I +should have ample time in two months to see the most interesting parts +of America, including Canada. Recommended a covering during the night to +guard against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept in drawers +and stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there being rather scanty +narrow bed clothes. The sea placid so as to allow getting comfortably to +bed. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 2ND. + +Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of cocks, etc. Our live stock +very considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, +ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6-1/2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of +fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papers +had been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steerage +passengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish +people not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below. + +Began reading "A Tour through Canada." Found one of the passengers going +out to assist at a Methodistic Conference in Canada. This forenoon the +Captain told the helmsman to go north about. The wind became favourable. +We left the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or rather +the Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much relish for dinner. +Munched one of mother's cakes and took tea which I liked very much. Had +a pleasant chat in the evening; was informed about the watches which are +reckoned from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, making +what is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to rest about +half past ten. Soon after being in my berth found considerable heaves 6 +or 8 times, then still whilst I counted 20 or 25, then again heaving as +before. This is occasioned by what are called the Swells. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 3RD. + +Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found ourselves within 3 +miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre on our right. Heard the +Captain speak to a vessel going to Liverpool telling them to report us +all well. Breakfasted very well but soon returned upon deck as we +expected soon to lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten which +threw the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of Ireland +till past five when the land and we parted for some weeks. About this +time I became qualmish and went to the stern to see if I could hasten +the catastrophe by putting down my fingers; this did not avail, +therefore I descended to open my store of camomile and black currants; +no sooner was this accomplished than I became sick three or four times. +I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept 3 or 4 hours. The +ship rolled very much and the water I heard splashing by; it seemed +sometimes as if actually going over. Two interesting circumstances +occurred last night. I dreamed that my father was actually alive and in +his better way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel--how +he had come there we did not know. What must be the situation of the +poor steerage passengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set of +children? A very happy circumstance for us rather than the proprietors +is that we have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth to +himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warm +weather. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 4TH. + +Passed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, but found +myself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did not attempt to rise +till twelve, and then unable to shave. Sat sometimes in the sunshine and +sometimes in the small house, unable to walk and fearful of descending. +Took only a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended about +7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when I vomited, then drank +a cup of tea. Last night I dreamed that I actually saw my dear father +alive and cheerful. Several birds resembling sparrows flew about the +ship and seemed as if they had made an error in their reckoning as they +must be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but deeply +sympathise with the steerage passengers so crowded, whilst with every +attention I cannot but think my own situation miserable. + + +MONDAY, MAY 5TH. + +A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt sickly. Managed +to shave without a glass. Sickly all day and unable to take exercise. +Sat in the upper house with a quantity of flannel around my feet; urged +by the Captain to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my great +surprise found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sick +several times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, took two +of the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them warm. Sipped of the +currant tea and felt very comfortable. + +Morning dawn, crowing of cocks, 7-1/2 bell rung round the cabin. 8 +breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. 12 lunch; shins of +beef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, fowls, beef, mutton, pies, +puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, French plums. 7 tea. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 6TH. + +Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without glass, walked on deck, got +breakfast in the upper house with my two clerical friends. Talked about +the miseries of Ireland which they both ascribed to the bad effects of +popery, which Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in any +other part of the world; one great proof was that the evils were worse +in Munster. When I mentioned France, they said infidelity prevailed +there, which I admitted to be the case in the large cities. Dined above +with the two ecclesiastics. A good deal of rain with little wind. Then +blew fair but very cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one of +the pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; commenced +with Watson's "Life[2]," belonging to Mr. Grindrod. Many gulls flying +behind the vessel; a ship in sight northwards. A poor hen escaped from +the pen and remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get her +she flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her throat +cut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long way. Hope to have +got over my sickness. This evening we all appeared below at tea, being +the first time since Saturday morning, the sickness continuing from +Saturday evening to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seaton +play chess. No great skill displayed. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH. + +Passed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. Well enough to +shave by means of a glass. Made an error in reckoning the watch bells. +On deck at half-past six. Found we had not progressed much, the wind +unfavourable. No tides here, but assisted by the current make about two +knots per hour. About ten an improved N.E. wind which continued most of +the day. Cough nearly gone, sickness also, breakfasted pretty well and +dined heartily. I and my two clerical friends ordered two bottles of +champagne. About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up soon +after five, proved the _A----_ from Havannah bound to St. Petersburgh +and had been out 42 days; asked us whence we came and whither bound, +also the longitude. Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage. +The first really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to be +recovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could not be prevailed +on to leave their hammocks; could not speak a word of English. Found the +steerage passengers very respectable poor people from Lancashire, +Lincolnshire, Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, some +with a pretty good property which they found regularly diminishing. A +theological debate with Mr. Hamilton. Read part of Lander's[3] "Travels +in Africa." + + +THURSDAY, MAY 8TH. + +Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without difficulty, but I +forgot to rinse out my mouth with water according to my invariable +practise. Very cold with stiff breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. At +dinner a warm discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended that +agitation could only prevail where there was distress. See the state of +America; what could D. O'Connell do there? About 5 we had what is called +a squall of wind. I went on deck and found the vessel on one side, and +scudding steadily through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying the +ship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51°, that I remained a good deal +below, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's[4] "Tour in Canada." The +_Britannia_ 125 feet long. + +Wines, etc., on board furnished by the steward at the following prices: + + Madeira wine per bottle $1.50 + Sherry " " 1.50 + Port " " 1.25 + Claret per bottle 1.25 + Champagne per bottle 2 + Hock or Moselle per bottle 1.50 + Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky } per bottle 1 + Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial } + Porter per bottle 0.37-1/2 + Cider " .25 + Soda Water " .12-1/4 + Saratoga " .25 + + +FRIDAY, MAY 9TH. + +Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested well the +first two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards a good deal of +rolling and pitching of the vessel. The conversation this morning at +breakfast chiefly on the expense of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stout +box coat charged ten guineas which was pronounced very cheap, though I +cannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for £6. 6. 0. Mr. S. +said that 400 dollars was not unusually paid in America. The wind still +from the north and therefore favourable, but still very cold. After +dinner played three games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all. +Learned from one of the seamen that the _Britannia_ is about seven years +old, and is expected to continue as a packet about two years longer. +Squally again towards night with a good deal of heaving. Tried fishing +but not successful. After reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I went +to rest soon after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have a +small hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went into +ribbands. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 10TH. + +Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled tremendously +and between one and two I heard a considerable bump, the vessel lurched +and we shipped a heavy sea, that is the water flowed over us. I +continued in a state of great suspense hearing all sorts of things +tumbling about and my looking glass dashed on to me in my berth; put my +knees against one side and my back to the other to prevent being tumbled +out. For the first time began to regret coming. Often near asleep and +then the vessel so much on one side I could not help fearing it going +over. Not being able to sleep I got up before seven A.M. Found the sea +very greatly agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by the +foam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in pursuit of +anything we might throw away. The ocean has the appearance of hills and +vales and the heaving on one side I found was occasioned by going up the +sides of the hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After reading +Watson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one P.M. Then went on +deck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and that wrong, rain, and rather +sickly. An elderly sailor at the helm said we had a strong gale in the +night; but at this time of year it was not much minded and told me it +was quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteen +dismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the deck. Saw a ship +yesterday. The gale again increased towards evening and I feared a poor +night. A very good pancake half way across the Atlantic. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 11TH. + +Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the assurance of the +impossibility of the ship being blown on one side. Remained awake +several hours and afterwards found it assist to lie on one's back when +the ship is rolling. Whilst on deck the sea suddenly broke over the +side. I escaped by means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson got +a complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a religious +service which was assented to, and our clerical friends promised to +conduct it. At eleven we had the Church of England Service read by Mr. +Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod acting as clerk and also closing the service by +an appropriate prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and praying +for a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the vessel, also +the Captain and family. It was intended to have a sermon preached to the +whole crew in the afternoon, but the weather proved too cold. The +Captain said we had made three degrees of latitude since noon the day +before; would not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day or +two we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship or porpoises to be +seen of all day. + + +MONDAY, MAY 12TH. + +Passed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, but were glad +to find this not the case, the breeze had continued moderately through +the night. Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steerage +passengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises +swimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with +Captain Kenney about the English nobility, etc., and also with Captain +Sketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chiefly +between Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool on +account of Mrs. S. who could not bear the extremes of the American +climate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their +family already gone to America. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 13TH. + +Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times; +and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow +hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes +one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling +foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights[5], those at the stern, were +made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The +Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year; +talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain +Kenney now appeared on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce were +suddenly swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. Cayley. +Towards evening the sky became darker and the storm likely to increase +during the night; this we found the case and about ten we rolled +tremendously; we all seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a few +conundrums, etc. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH. + +Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more sail was hoisted +that steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably till half past seven. +Nobody but I and Mr. Grindrod seemed to have been inconvenienced. A +delightful change, the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sun +shining. A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers about +1-1/2 inch thick and 10 in. diameter, counting thus, and the trenchers +could be slided within the lines;--claret--2 bottles of champagne being +the wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went to lie down, +having had so little sleep. Whilst down a ship passed to the west of us. +Played two games at Chess with the Captain who beat me though I had +quite the game and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, if +successful I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed. +Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to be seen. + + +-+-+-+ + |1|8|6| + +-+-+-+ + |5|3|7| + +-+-+-+ + |9|4|2| + +-+-+-+ + + +THURSDAY, MAY 15TH. + +Had a pleasant night, found little wind and that not favourable; in fact +they tell me we are not nearing N.Y. Finished Watson's "Memoirs" 667 +octavo pages; a good reply to those who have attempted a defence of +slavery from O. and N. Testament. Spent the day very delightfully, being +so warm that we preferred the shade. The wind but light and not fair. +Tried fishing but not successful. + +An old seaman who has been with the _Britannia_ over three years says he +never knew a passage from England to America made in less than 30 days. + +Played another game at chess with Mr. Seaton, had the worst of it, but +called away to dinner. Another play was putting the feet in a swing rope +and trying how far they could go, being then chalked on the deck. + +After tea went on deck, a beautiful starlight night, a good deal of +singing. Jackson had ascended the rigging, was followed by one of the +seamen who tied his legs. The usual penalty followed--a bottle of rum; +he gave them two and the evening passed merrily. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 16TH. + +Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind and that +adverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. Played another game +with Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, still unsuccessful. Had a slight +headache, the atmosphere feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey's +chickens or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed us +some distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown to it by the +Captain. + +The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made to America. At +dinner a warm discussion on the Duke of Newcastle doing "what he liked +with his own"; also the advantage of colonies, also the large military +and naval expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera Cruz +to Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since we sailed. This +evening played another game with the Captain and lost. Went on deck and +heard two songs. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 17TH. + +Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from Liverpool and could +not get back in time for sailing; also that I had had three suits of +clothes sent in. Was sorry to learn that the wind had died away and that +we had only made about 1-1/2 knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a great +distance; about two they came within a mile of us; others were also +observed. Went down and wrote a few lines; the vessel did not come near +enough for us to speak to them. Another ship passed in the afternoon but +more distant. At dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sell +for more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes indeed. In the +evening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said he himself had two horses +which he drove eleven miles an hour for four successive hours; also +spoke of the great mercantile house of Parish & Co., Hamburgh and New +York. One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are 102 in +the fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 18TH. + +Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out my better +clothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. Found the wind had +continued moderately favourable. A long discussion at breakfast +respecting smoking. Mr. Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars for +thirty days together, and did not consider it hurtful when taken +properly into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly as +generally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed us this morning. +At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious service and seats were +brought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read the Church of England service, and +Mr. Grindrod preached a good practical sermon. In the evening the +Captain proposed to have an evening service, which was readily acceded +to by Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. read the evening service and Mr. G. preached +the sermon. In the morning service the prayer for the royal family had +given offence to some of the crew, and therefore on the recommendation +of the Captain, the prayer was altered into all chief magistrates and +governors. + + +MONDAY, MAY 19TH. + +Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear father, who is +now still more in my remembrance, and I have frequently to check the +expectation of seeing him on my return. A truly delightful morning with +an improved breeze. Passed what is called a black fish[6]. Played a game +with Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and favourable breeze +continued. Immediately after dinner I observed a current of yellow water +about the breadth of the ship's length, and about 1/2 or 3/4 mile on +each side, and after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who was +just then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along with +others and he expressed very great surprise, almost seemed desirous to +turn the vessel about to look more closely. He had never seen the like +before, and should have been alarmed had he seen it at the head; could +only explain it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud had +melted in that neighbourhood[7]. Had fiddle and dancing particularly +well done by the steward, cook, and some of the sailors. Played another +game at chess with Mr. B. and beat him. Although we have had a good fair +breeze all day we have not seen a single ship. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 20TH. + +Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy +shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at +a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued +unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. +Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten +and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was +quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured +water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn +of a whale. + +Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed off the table and +broken; also a tumbler and champagne glass. One gull seen yesterday and +two stormy petrels follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us, +partly occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had some +affecting conversation with Mr. G. respecting my late dear father. A +fine evening, the wind changed and almost became a calm. The ship +gradually turned round to get on another tack. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST. + +Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. A good deal of +conversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America it +seems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels +in Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze +refreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. +Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones to +sixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; he +also surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. The +wind continued favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. and +lost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have great +difficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting my late dear +father on my return. + + +THURSDAY, MAY 22ND. + +Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found the wind +slight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, all the sails +squared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. The wind about one, +changed more south. A long sit and chat upon the helm house with Mr. +Grindrod. A very good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not a +vessel all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance. +Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation of meeting +again my dear father. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 23RD. + +Got up before six having not been able to sleep since 2 o'clock, such +noises, pitching and rockings as surely never were heard before. Found +the sea greatly agitated and much foam. I asked one of the seamen if he +did not call this a stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. The +Captain admitted that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all day +and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, +and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we +found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish +to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of +the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits +depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster +complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain +Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. In the morning +the Captain persuaded me to go to rest again and I lay down after +dinner. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 24TH. + +I passed a much better night and got up at half past six; was gratified +to learn from the Mate who is not usually encouraging, that we had been +making way in the night; pointed out a vessel passing us on the east. +The Captain is making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62 +voyages; been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, very +cold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. A day of +business amongst the steerage passengers exchanging provisions. Much +warmer on deck after dinner. Had some conversation in French with one of +the sailors who is a Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatly +pleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of the ship. +Find the seamen are only engaged at New York to Liverpool and back, +their wages paid during that time; this is the same even with the cook. +The Captain every Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all the +cabin passengers. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 25TH. + +Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden squall arose +that tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. On going upon deck the sea +was much agitated, it rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend. +These sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf Stream; +but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not come on earlier; it +continued to blow hard all day. Seated at the stern watching the petrels +and feeding them with bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning and +another in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit out +and enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in the cabin and a +prayer made by Mr. Grindrod. + + +MONDAY, MAY 26TH. + +Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began to roll +about. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which was the cause of the +motion, which continued all forenoon. + +Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to Syria; and also at +looking at some amusing caricatures of Cruickshank's. The wind fair but +very little of it, yesterday a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact we +have only had once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A great +many gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, and few petrels. +Had we gone over the banks we might have had some diversion in fishing, +but the Captain was afraid of encountering the ice. + +In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but generally very +foggy weather and changeable, either calms or storms. This has been a +very unpleasant day, a calm with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, or +even Mother Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal of +champagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 27TH. + +Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship rolled and +pitched more than I expected. When I went upon deck I was agreeably +surprised; a very good wind from the north bearing us on very well. + +The scene diversified by a grampus[8] 8 to 10 feet long, and a flying +fish which is rather larger than a swallow. About ten spoke to a vessel +from Jamaica to London. Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour, +Syria, Egypt, etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dear +father's departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to some +serious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At dinner Mr. Jackson +enquired what was the matter, upon which Mr. G. very kindly explained +the cause. Commenced reading B. H.'s[9] Notes on Chili, Peru, etc., he +is a very pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out about +this time. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH. + +Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may lead to a +change of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continued +heavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased, +but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossing +the Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland but +the Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if there was anything +done by the Almighty which he could wish altered it would be the Gulf +Stream; there is not only a current against us, but great uncertainty as +to calms and storms. Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with us +to-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the passengers trying +to put their legs over an American flour cask, and so raise themselves +over it upon their feet. Went upon deck and was much pleased with the +appearance of the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; the +sides of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the ocean +was covered apparently by fire occasioned by the breakers. Passed the +day without seeing either sail or fish. + + +THURSDAY, MAY 29TH. + +Passed another comfortable night, found we had been getting on pretty +well; nearly out of the Stream with the intention of shooting across the +first fair wind. + +The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged nine months. A +stone with two lumps of iron are tied up to sink the child. At six the +bell tolled, the little thing was placed upon a door and when the +Minister, Mr. H. came to that part of committing the body to the deep it +was slid off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten by +fish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon deck, her name +Johnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; the husband I believe in +America. + +Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29th +May, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadiness +but this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday's +debauch. Mr. Seaton says bastardy is not so common in America but +always charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he +never walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system, +either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 30TH. + +Passed another good night though dreaming more of home and the +warehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind and that it had been the +same during the night; continued so all day but the rolling of the ship +on going to breakfast made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; in +fact we pitched and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part of +the day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should consider it +the most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, no fish or anything to +divert the tedium. + +This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. Frequent jelly-like +substances floating on the ocean of various colours formed like a +cockscomb commonly called Portuguese men-of-war. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 31ST. + +Another good night, found the wind favourable but not much of this most +of the night. A warm political discussion; I stated that America and not +Dan O'Connell was the great political agitator. Speaking of the immense +salaries paid in England I said the Government was more in fault in +granting them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain Kenney +said he should like to subscribe to send the radicals out of the +country. I thought it would be better to employ the subscriptions in +getting all the democrats away. A dense mist continued on the surface of +the ocean till eleven, when it suddenly disappeared. A ship discovered +by Mr. Grindrod. + +I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment of my dear +father. Finished the second volume of Hall's "Journal of a Voyage to +Chili, etc." Learned from Captain Kenney that the journey from London to +Moscow by Hamburgh, Lübeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a week for +about £34; that there is no difficulty with regard to passports, but +that you must advertise every district visited in the "St. Petersburgh +Gazette," and that you are leaving there in three weeks; you can then +stop that time but no longer in one place. At dinner we had some +interesting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting future +punishment and the different degrees; the latter I was glad to find was +the creed of Mr. G. between whom and Mr. B. the conversation was carried +on. On going on deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did not +approve of such discussions. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST. + +Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length crossed the Gulf +Stream; sensibly colder. The wind had not been favourable since last +night. A very considerable mist occasioned by the warm water in the +Stream coming in contact with the cold atmosphere--very cold. + +The morning service according to the Church of England read by Mr. H. +but not so many present on account of the cold--again in the evening +with a sermon from Mr. G. from John, 14th chap., 15th verse, "If ye love +me keep my commandments." Captain K. said he did not consider himself a +gambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or £400 a night; once at Paris he +lost a good deal. Since then he had made it a rule not to give checks, +but merely stake what he had with him; when he lost the large sums they +were out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not do for +sea, port for instance; had several bottles changed because not so +clear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold and a contrary wind; all +the crew seemed to be getting out of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he cost +his father £3000 for the 2-3/4 years he was learning the spinning +business; he admitted he had been very gay. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 2ND. + +A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention of going again to +America. Delighted to find the weather milder and the wind favourable; +it continued thus all day; rain came on about three; after dinner there +was thick mist which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours with +the helmsman and others. + +Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and Harrison. Mentioned +Coates with whom they did as much as 10,000 pieces annually. Commenced +reading "The Refugee in America," a work by Mrs. Trollope[10]. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD. + +Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared we might run +foul of some vessel, and after four we had a good deal of rolling. On +getting up I was greatly disappointed to find the wind had been west all +night, and also very cold indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw the +spouting of a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. Several +other fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged in cod fishing off +the banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are now within soundings. + +Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The wind continued hard +and cold; by "hard" is meant that no change can be expected till it dies +naturally away. Another child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and I +engaged in reading together "The Refugee." No fish to be seen. The day +has been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable for the poor +children afflicted with measles. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH. + +Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little progress, the wind +still unfavourable. Another child dead of the measles. To reconcile the +mother to interment in the deep, a coffin was ordered. About one both +children were placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwark +had been taken away. Mr. G. officiated in consequence of Mr. H.'s +indisposition, and on committing them to the deep the coffin did not +sink. A great many passengers ran immediately to the stern whence it was +observed for more than ten minutes, one passenger protesting that he +still saw it, after others had declared that it had sunk; so that what +was intended as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body had sunk +instantly. + +Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being so much warmer +we were all in better spirits. A most glorious sunset this evening. The +cook considered to be very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening with +some of the sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drink +than usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH. + +Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind had continued +favourable all night. + +After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 letters, many of +them double, treble, etc., besides some hundreds of parcels, with a +great many newspapers most of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i.e. half +past eleven, a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail was +immediately taken in--rain and much colder, also much rocking of the +ship; we have to be thankful that it has happened now, rather than in +the night and especially when nearer land. Immediately after dinner one +of the most terrible rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses were +broken this day than on any former one. About two we had quite a thunder +storm with very heavy rain. After dinner we went to the stern and had +the most terrible heave, and such a sea as we had never beheld before +and all this at the end of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms, +tried to fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful. +Yesterday a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went down about +four but the sea continued rolling; in fact it must have blown harder +from some other part to have raised the sea so much. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH. + +Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the ship rolling so +much. Most truly delighted to find that we had had favourable wind since +eleven, and now with this wind from N.E. which is likely to be more +permanent we may fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there came +on a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it became +necessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger sea broke over than +any I had yet seen. About two it lessened and the sail was again +increased. After dinner, about five, the delightful word "Land" was +announced which made us all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deck +and was just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a most +agreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke over the ship +than I had seen before, and now at six we are sailing in smooth water. + +After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings became +saddened by the recollection of never again beholding my dear father, +and these no doubt will be my sensations when I get back to my native +land. Another most glorious sunset, a cloud covering the upper part of +the low coast of Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made it +have the appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautiful +clouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH. + +A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to help us on. At +noon another child died and was interred. Very hot. The Jersey coast +seen this morning. Mr. Seaton, a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/- +worth this voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward--also wine bill 10 +dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides 16 lost at +cards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of the coast. Long Island a +very low sandy shore. Unfavourable breeze till after dinner when all at +once it changed. A beautiful sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, and +one from Ireland filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five men +from a revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an account +of the cases of merchandise and passengers; he appeared a pleasant +sharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamen +sounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came +on board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been +towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, and +brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem the +tide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head and +snuffing the land breeze. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH. + +A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half past +six. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 miles +off the quarantine--got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the _Royal +William_, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe. + +Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we have to anchor to +stem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about two, became delirious. Saw a +steam boat I proposed joining at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed to +think it could not be done without offending the Captain. I ventured to +mention it to him, mentioning Mr. B.'s illness. He said he could have no +objection and would join us. The flag was hoisted, but either he was +previously engaged or refused to assist us. Got into the boat hanging on +the side of our ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us. +As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many porpoises. Got on shore +at Staten Island at seven o'clock; stept across the _Hercules_, an +immense steamer; the land quite strange to my feet, the air quite +fragrant and the grass delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom. +Took tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also turnips, +radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out and saw many fire-flies +and heard all sorts of noises from grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to the +hospital for a doctor to attend Mr. B. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 9TH. + +Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant morning. +Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, had slept only two hours, +but thought this caused by a powerful medicine. On walking or still more +on standing still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship. + +Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built with shingles. + +Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the hospital +washhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large dragon-flies. 95 degrees in +the shade. A couple of oxen drawing a cart. Paid 12-1/2 cents for +washing the clothes, 17 articles. For one day's entertainment at the +Nautilus Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, also a +plate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat worked ahead, +instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple 37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents. +Called upon Francis Hall on account of Mr. Grindrod. + +At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, whether one +attends the meals or not. Set off to call upon Thomas Dean; found him +ill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. just going into the straw. Complained +of business being very bad and likely to be so for the next two months. +Rent of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by taking the +wrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring I was 2-1/2 miles from the +Hotel. On getting in, found the table set out, partook of a little ham, +and went to bed, pretty well tired. T. D. cautioned me against over +exertion. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH. + +Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning of the night. I +also awoke, found myself very warm and feared I had done too much. +However soon fell asleep. Rose soon after six--another brilliant +morning. + +Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. At half past +seven a gong sounded, the same repeated at eight, the latter being the +signal for breakfast. A long table with bread, all sorts of fish, meat, +cakes, strawberries, attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T. +Dean and he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also in +exchanging my dollars which are at par or 4_s._ 6_d._ making 2-3/4 in my +favour. Went to the auction and am told that the greatest part of +British goods are disposed of in this way; when once advertised they +must be sold as people will not lose their time in inspection; all +depends on the scarcity with regard to pieces, therefore requires great +care in watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-water +made palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters in my +portmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of both sexes. All sorts +of meat cooked in all ways; the peas sweetened as in Italy. Dessert +chiefly oranges and strawberries. + +Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall. +Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like +those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge +also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are +sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of +the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning +with some thunder. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH. + +Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to +the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of wood +put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just +in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a +most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large +cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built a +house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and +occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child +being dead. + +Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called +upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to +their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called +upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return. +Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him; +mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful +oranges at 1/2_d._, also a pine for 10_d._ Then called at the American +Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. +Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and +down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold +very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to +put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the +bag. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH. + +Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of +Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton +150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen +who take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon +stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted +away till frost comes. + +Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from +Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick +of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but +for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been +frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was +forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I +engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17 +years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved +to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite +astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. +greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going +to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, +and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike +gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. +Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an +acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and +bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder +by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The +estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by +mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five +horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to +find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to +the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising +at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, +butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, +etc. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH. + +Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set +out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit +them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the +steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on +the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and +view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters. +Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. +After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long +way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who +waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. +not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee +that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with gilt +pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable; +the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table +set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all +in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal +of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had +only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little +tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am +advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead +of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the +flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the +night. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH. + +Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down +street before breakfast. + +The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon +Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me +through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, +also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, +where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and +then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die +and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process +of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of +revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value +exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that +planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down. +Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own +water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, +found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others. +We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both. +Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went +into a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town, +but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome +edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky. + +Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much +coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat +without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that +the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as +light. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH. + +Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best +bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving +away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to +keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two +Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of +steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a +column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr. +Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing +chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. +to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an +interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a +pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where +an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden +bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting +discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening +service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?" + + +MONDAY, JUNE 16TH. + +Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to +see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at +the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time +found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did +not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, +some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on +their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very +savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it. + +Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to +Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my +uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, +but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the +locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to +present to C. D. and Mr. B. + +Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. +Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a +store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to +make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at +his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago +having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling +it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first +sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or +two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied +me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle +having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done +it. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH. + +Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than +five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office +and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh +1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works +immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. +That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., +that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 +months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a +public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown +corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, +was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past +four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather +depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of +my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his +passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his +memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty +dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an +hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him +and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two +women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the +pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in +less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, +attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a +numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH. + +About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of +lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, +and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some +time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a +perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with +redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it +was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the +worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who +did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over +to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. +Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out +together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson +and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne +with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three +daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where +vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, +such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence +we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; +all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for +one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the +Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the +Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent +the evening at Mr. Hulme's. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH. + +Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he +fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school +companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned +by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at +nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone +from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were +removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired +about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with +mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. +Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed +the college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the city +entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two +trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a +biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on +account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very +clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection +of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished +people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, +invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. +Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards +high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. +Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH. + +Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon +after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore. +Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with +Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a +very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible +to stand upon deck. + +After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with +me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a +very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by a +zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who +wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column +of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the +Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. +From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. +Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to +Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned +writing home from Washington and Boston. + +Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and +singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after +ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this +country, being so useful in driving away the flies. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST. + +Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated +and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a +square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours +No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel +more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a +species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, +muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious +working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering +over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two +o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a +very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the +evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an +extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a +little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven +years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on +to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old +country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or +Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. +Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling +very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND. + +Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said +had been very vivid. + +Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a +beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon +Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful +place something like the _nisi prius_ Court at Lancaster. Each member +has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps +enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery +behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies. + +Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no +particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to +gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which +continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set +off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C.[12] nothing minding, and in +fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to +get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the +storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing +the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate +that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made +pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the +galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 23RD. + +Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a +pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away +the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common +to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if +made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning +St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race +of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York, +to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room with +others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and +papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and +on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little +conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which +had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we +left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house +or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six +times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown +into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not +easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked +through the Dome containing several pictures, the _Declaration of +Independence_, _Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis_, and _Washington +giving up his Commission_. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to +Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had +made terrible ravages last year at Lexington. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH. + +Got up 1/4 before 5. Left Washington at 1/4 before 6. Arrived at +Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across +the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very +well received by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams +of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille +presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then +visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like +an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some +cake and wine. + +Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very +few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to +dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. +Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as +several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against +the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting +debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also +remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon. + +R. C. is considered very fond of show--prefers very tight boots, yet has +four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and +gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who +will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4 +dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing +home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping[14] +getting £5000 and not spending £500. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH. + +Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a +letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited +the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to +Pishey Thompson[15] who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me +to tea and to bring F. T. + +Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of +Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing +conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room +containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also +several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and +Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still +more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, +with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by +the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were left +open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I +consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will +soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we +expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had +only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited +both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and +well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old +Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. +Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the +Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's +where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I +think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH. + +Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution +necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the +second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 +cents. + +Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general +practice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than one +yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles +opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of +grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by +the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst +at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to +Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two +intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco +and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on +the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The +trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads +paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut +Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, +and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great +uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only +two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses +kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc. + +Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three; +objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, +found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are +slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to +remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them +together; the worst are generally disposed of first. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH. + +Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road +worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of +ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at +Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge +as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or +two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed +boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a +black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther +on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees +rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering +the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville +at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling +especially when jolting. + +Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner +with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great +quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit. + +Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the +driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite +wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are +built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or +dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay +or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH. + +Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only +two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed +about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured +man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly +American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through +a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and +left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4 +past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this +town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the +spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part +of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to +resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite +astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on +venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a +German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three +others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us. + +I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to +enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a +terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared +up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to +the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we +should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at +seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though +only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though +not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH. + +Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The +bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four +but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt +was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept +down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the +degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly +covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these +mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from +Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the +water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an +elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a +family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two +daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in +London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted +reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to +Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The +hill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is the +back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and +westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been +so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees +that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have +been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A +double-bedded room. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 30TH. + +Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. +There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of +the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was +returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. +Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak. + +The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a +curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, +1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear +20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, +those below looking mere shrubs. + +As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, +therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside +the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, got +supper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three. +Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of +the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The +names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had +the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather +mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 1ST. + +Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two +little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; +these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A +beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains +of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on +good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another +young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven +last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is +pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on +both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the +surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would +continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain. + +Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with +passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got +outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted +on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a +pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On +descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on +the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded +the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at +Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered +the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the +lightning and the shaking of the vessel. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND. + +Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be +adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. +Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into +the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of +hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including +breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy +singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and +liberty." + +Arrived at Maysville at half past one. + +Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and +ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly +flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some +cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday +a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. +Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most +delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last +winter but one, 63 feet. + +Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high +and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often +passing up and down this noble river. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 3RD. + +Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till +eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put +down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder +which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, +three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. +It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and +breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses +revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or +ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and +worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came +to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon +juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had +nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and +Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable +regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. +McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten +o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds +in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good +deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The +land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 4TH. + +Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; +rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that +the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He +offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums +announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in +an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks +was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of +his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington +and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a +brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married +and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. +Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement +and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the +latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised +Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; +several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to +enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty. + +Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, +but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A +gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana +cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any +children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, +turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks' +brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or +three hours till the stage left at 12. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 5TH. + +Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took +special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. +The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. +Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more +drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor +and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone +macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg +climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable +breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On +coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge; +changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot +between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt +less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for +some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two +miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn +nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. +Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with +spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again +when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 6TH. + +Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast +with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, +for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected +immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a +very large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, and +boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New +Orleans in five days, 1500 miles. + +Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual +discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes +known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, +the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor +blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, +they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and +children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant +chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles +through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man +had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered +to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from +the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever +heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, +head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous +language would be designated only a good moral sermon. + +Saw Mr. Hulme this evening. + + +MONDAY, JULY 7TH. + +Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not +much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in +the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home. + +Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented +me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on +the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him +to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn +out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and +raisins. Dined about half past one. + +A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly +worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too +speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six +took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my +coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the +chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the +_Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, +beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers +with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with +much thunder. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 8TH. + +Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small +of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given +me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, +dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into +the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_, +another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when +she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. +The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was +enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M. + +1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, +8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid +6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten +miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent +bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a +better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk +for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that +is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by +running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage +to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like +mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost +everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH. + +Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such +roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through +pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small +farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and +muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a +national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have +been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, +so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a +flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of +granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to +be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was +informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the +night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get +out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some +time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got +in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing +or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 10TH. + +Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two +passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville +half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and +poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as +paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag +chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A +large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found +the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some +coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally +the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled +with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too +late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati +at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours +we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others +in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the +road, especially being confined a day or two in some little +uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and +should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we +have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, +covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the +country on both sides of the Ohio. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 11TH. + +Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in +consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a +windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the +position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no +boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little +earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by +disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and +actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without +finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North +American Magazine"; felt in better spirits. + +Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild +beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by +seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had +worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts +his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the +animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary +(only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past +seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky +remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from +conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have +been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had +often seen. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 12TH. + +Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach +quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country +is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the +remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home +by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers +lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter +a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on +his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson +(?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them +make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the +aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post +Office, but again disappointed. + +Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is +one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the +Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley +surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our +English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear +half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed +by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this +by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any +horses' tails docked. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 13TH. + +Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the +first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of +a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; +hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several +large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and +excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in +America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, +a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a +Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so +clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 +dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the +Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile +rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained +with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it +is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath +evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very +splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. +Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 +cents. + + +MONDAY, JULY 14TH. + +Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the +passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel +uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by +being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the +same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep. + +Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I +parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old +intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done +very well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic +afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but +luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm +and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a +glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage +filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked +with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at +half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went +upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a +boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a +trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; +without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be +hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing +intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might +improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but +were objected to as unconstitutional. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 15TH. + +Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than +pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old +Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one +we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon +discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the +steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 +A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be +late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one +of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most +delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on +the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by +Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before +dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the +ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2 +for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which +a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture +was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and +recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M. +a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; +an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a +change in the English Ministry. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH. + +Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time +for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the +boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory +nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his +lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; +found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived +at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; +engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten +nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the +Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense +sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; +returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between +the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous +Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was +blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the +air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the +tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as +well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground +and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 17TH. + +Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid +the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A +favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water +in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my +baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who +came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and +set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the +hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it +proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After +changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the +Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on +trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and +descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed +under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is +narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one +place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must +say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a +tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much +is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit +might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of +the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the +Falls alone by moonlight. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 18TH. + +Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still +more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole +Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the +water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too +dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in +gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at +eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a +bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. +Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, +found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to +Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of +our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East +Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian +and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past +nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops +closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully +occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, +supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's +monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars +for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the +_Great Britain_ to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the +cabin spacious and neat. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 19TH. + +Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on +tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper +containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a +conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent +gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour +in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few +dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to +make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He +thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; +they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel +independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the +control of the parents unless wealthy. + +Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; +got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake +Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher +complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water +considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young +men that are purposing going to Quebec. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 20TH. + +During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got +up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little +qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, +the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on +shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy +instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; +then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. +Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and +the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in +our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, +etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes to +this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old +England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old +Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy +and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty +little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after +nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; +still I shall go on, hoping for the best. + + +MONDAY, JULY 21ST. + +Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English +for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and +two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning +nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. +Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and +island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most +delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one +side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they +are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20] +1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in +the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different +to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at +St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of +them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into +the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water +towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old +female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little +one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic +chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. +Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more +Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my +visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have +been spent delightfully. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 22ND. + +Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear +father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the +mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good +deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so +pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some +ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the +Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side +and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked +to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found +nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just +before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not +going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the +agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, +but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more +passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda +sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to +be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen +all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; +fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD. + +Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage +office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. +Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder! +Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the +wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, +London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 +degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In +addition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_ +so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been +unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the +news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen +at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this +house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these +circumstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a noble +vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, +a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; +she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the +young man. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 24TH. + +Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes +not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; +Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, +also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red +currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different +kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, +will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at +4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with +neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric +collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; +the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before +8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour +so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried +to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, +but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. +The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found +his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's +shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who +had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. +William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case +during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the +cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles +off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital +and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 25TH. + +Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A +thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away +the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a +calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. +Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space +on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his +grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas +engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three +miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. +His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave +the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his +connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most +villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would +fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to +Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and +were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and +there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 +dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at +the Cathedral. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 26TH. + +Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at +six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all +my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; +a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed +with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a +strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked +with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave +stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a +magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous +staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed +over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, +but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed +in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found +two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for +going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at +seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the +latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he +was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 27TH. + +Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and +danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first +time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on +the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as +security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at +half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the +Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of +us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for +two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to +find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to +meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was +getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; +got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of +agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were +all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the +four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. +Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with +four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not +waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved +very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did +not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two +dollars. Arrived after twelve. + + +MONDAY, JULY 28TH. + +Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, +perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very +nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick +cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and +spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores +low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 +dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. +The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the +spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. +The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all +sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked +a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of +port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the +waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without +once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer +came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they +contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with +distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an +avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the +water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to +attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after +luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in +the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let +down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely +stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer +made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: +afterwards had a comfortable bedroom. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 29TH. + +A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, +breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at +Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of +Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two +saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked +with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side +two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and +also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about +two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines +are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; +several islands. + +Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars +he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he +then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about +beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also +whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and +breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH. + +Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, +a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a +place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on +the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a +little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the +river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very +delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement +being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel +to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150 +to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen +had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and +gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the +"American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a +gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball +at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one +another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 31ST. + +Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors +leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. +Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a +gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the +place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the +carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to +have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage +over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same +on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and +engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut +through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an +interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the +river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. +unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving +mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a +grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the +Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a +magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane +manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST. + +Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down +the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by +another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with +the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of +a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed +rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had +left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his +regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a +good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into +slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at +once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and +tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2 +cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep +land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous +and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better +fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at +Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in +the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. +Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. +Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND. + +Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed +manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past +one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly +painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly +with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty +miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence +there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove +and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with +the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became +cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles +when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and +one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, +not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at +Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk +and bread. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD. + +Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for +Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, +during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His +colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss +of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's +Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; +but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after +kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the +elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. +At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I +went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased +by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 +v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to +the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very +nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, +good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; +well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to +hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH. + +Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and +returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. +Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, +chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the +Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver +and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over +Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is +superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the +commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The +monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another +side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to +the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way +back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon +Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a +magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to +be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden +bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a +fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take +tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to +Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. +Livingstone. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH. + +Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage +would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting +passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour +in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot +day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a +sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at +Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet +manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced +to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way +connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving +rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same +way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the +Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling +over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied +into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So +extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two +o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all +turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for +breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4 +hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, +the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of +different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not +arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. +Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most +disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this +morning from James Dean. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH. + +Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found +it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was +out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough +to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well +stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British +Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry +dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they +were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, +also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the +prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, +brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; +and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious +lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at +3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a +sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing +between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to +sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off +and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine +(Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a +Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this +interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and +quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. +On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was +disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. +Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the +city. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH. + +Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea +cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted +the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went +within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the +land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small +factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in +Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to +Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after +dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in +town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I +should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst +not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on +immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my +feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the +sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of +milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian +discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a +pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest +day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys +bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found +a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of +milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH. + +Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, +whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building +for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for +William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if +I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious +fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined +with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and +walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by +the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took +some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about +100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully +warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, +eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and +drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was +sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired +after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and +just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave +without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with +me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the +Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very +well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH. + +Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit +Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 +miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to +G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much +of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not +know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear +is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is +George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there +is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet +Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to +interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been +comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a +cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's +eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort +of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well +furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be +later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still +living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann +the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased +to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, +thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very +good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some +time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife +not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not +doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH. + +Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at +Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the +steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up +and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five +miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New +York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff +fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with +five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with +three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take +this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one +was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A +stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of +worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was +Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and +heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved +Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room +with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. +I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and +found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends +for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I +had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to +hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation +numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large +proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay +where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding +the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant +bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with +10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have +been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH. + +Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the +three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon +four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping +ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post +Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" × 24". Set off to visit Dr. +Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the +house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the +same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and +shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into +the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing +and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a +stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and +was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with +his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, +and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in +better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at +Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen +noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his +studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. +Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so +that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took +coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on +deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman +told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took +possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large +waves. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH. + +Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes +quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and +gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and +put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles +from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and +put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very +narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A +fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf +about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to +the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and +got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking +thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; +he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, +afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of +standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two +peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had +purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered +it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black +waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out +in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another +part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. +Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. +Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did +not see the infant. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH. + +Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly +infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large +swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. +Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and +read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to +bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in +consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but +amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes +and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and +prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced +dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places +at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of +fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head +of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After +dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters +at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from +English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past +nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, +overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and +died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. +155. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH. + +Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I +expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings +coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with +these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a +little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York +a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked +into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of +psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in +Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. +through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles +(to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the +usual charge 6_d._ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half +price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great +inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito +bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; +found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls +narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River +to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by +means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The +tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found +Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and +talking all the time. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH. + +Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a +good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played +some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the +island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. +Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, +so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others +gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other +side towards Harlem a fine spacious road. + +Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance +of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm +tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. +Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there +was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still +itching and swelled from the mosquitoes. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH. + +Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not +coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed +on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, +found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just +what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, +the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than +usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is +lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul +in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the +end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and +the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish +(sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water. + +A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three; +got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain +1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 +miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8; +having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another +piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; +very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH. + +Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of +the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the +top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst +of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with +fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake +glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side +mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a +delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to +the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to +project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is +hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of +the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most +magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful +prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time +and friends I could pass a week very well. + +I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going +and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our +English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as +soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the +stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed. +Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant +chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been +several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; +heavy rain. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH. + +Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage; +by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at +Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; +fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the +table part of the mountain. + +Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A +delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying +the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four +miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 +miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, +a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. +Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of +the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. +At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been +widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid +2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a +very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of +bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the +top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but +I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but +it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the +Americans that I made no distinction. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH. + +Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait +nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage +was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents +for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the +driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst +themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the +Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set +off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me +not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost +at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a +clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control +over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the +steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of +some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling +considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles +off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well +have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something +interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing +me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of +getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. +Put away the wool from my sore. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH. + +Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to +Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going +13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found +him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals +improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than +the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the +country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it +should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been +called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits +without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the +Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting +account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling +to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 +miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on +with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out +to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives +here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and +older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her +mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on +entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried +out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty +of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A +sheep was killed. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST. + +Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry +and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old +features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An +American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like +crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a +very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of +hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to +make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the +slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side +of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two +horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists +of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes +resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same +at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the +maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the +sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning +of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over +by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a +supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter +from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably +settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND. + +John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl +employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most +cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a +carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for +her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah +rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha +the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person +and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old +friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating +him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of +visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal +called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good +food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came +about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they +eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; +both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently +catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the +best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD. + +The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be +burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for +fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable +and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like +stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was +first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but +was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be +insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced +spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the +heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a +good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often +running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The +battlements of bridges generally coped with wood. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH. + +Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to +the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other +horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we +should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in +winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister +Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very +orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the +mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, +chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's +Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to +make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed +to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with +the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into +disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no +service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, +cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through +the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th +of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we +chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH. + +After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the +waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with +a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal +about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, +but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be +possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most +satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see +them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that +there were very few round about but what were more or less in their +debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of +Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann +the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good +tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but +cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but +he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH. + +In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow +at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; +opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the +stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, +particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see +each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God +bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the +way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded +in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very +disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an +English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to +his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey +a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid +fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad +to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along +the locusts had been destroyed. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH. + +Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut +and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if +no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. +Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one +part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and +all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, +without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a +draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a +wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for +25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the +horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on +account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was +the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only +one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the +mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a +shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived +soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been +expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go +over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got +coffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH. + +A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got +to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal. +Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and +been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat +with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one +about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very +pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave +me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to +ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the +second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have +been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH. + +Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, +good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with +Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he +died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. +Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A +most delightful morning. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH. + +Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic +priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a +pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at +Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately +been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path +covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal +is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to +Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and +cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a +connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty +waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically +situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left +my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting +drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys +like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and +river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of +Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven. +Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to +Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. +Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST. + +Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood +suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little +drizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the +drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the +woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had +coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared +and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who +burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling +shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said +these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most +beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 +or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is +generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the +White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a +good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and +changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the +evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 +and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well +but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most +influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two +natures. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST. + +Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely +fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not +having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed +an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to +N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with +Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found +him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not +seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read +the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. +Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he +lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and +carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man +greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well +acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the +Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. +Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking +trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. +Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but +cheerful. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND. + +Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. +Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw +a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without +much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. +Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. +Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into +Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a +younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor +on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger +brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. +Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the +streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear +remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten +thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD. + +Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then +called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning +gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston +advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has +now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his +mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a +companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to +say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected +some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and +his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. +Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private +museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works +on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection +of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding +on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. +Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's +but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard +some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An +attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, +but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. +Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH. + +Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of +everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars; +vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons +six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss +Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther +Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank +Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in +England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a +mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with +sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and +he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon +the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. +Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and +also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether +tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called +again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very +much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's +foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in +Canada; and had children. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH. + +Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy +writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his +old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed +to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find +out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair +I scrambled up the wall and read as follows: + + Benjamin and } + Deborah } Franklin. + +Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten +dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He +and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. +Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to +tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more +difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, +rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a +dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way +that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young +Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn +farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the +afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine. +Slept with young Rollanson. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH. + +Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to +market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some +conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little +gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, +part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious +melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers' +monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible +pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat +under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then +walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears +12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins +and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B. +plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The +quantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a +reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two +feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at +length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a +spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested +and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and +daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a +Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. +gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book." + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH. + +Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian +arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out +together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, +Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of +the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to +Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience +rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by +one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined +in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the +sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, +Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse +than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday +when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having +been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 +years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are +made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve +it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose +daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected +person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a +humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the +pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a +large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH. + +Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing +letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist +his brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; +having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised +to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some +peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. +Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following +morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from +C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by +the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the +D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her +little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH. + +This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to +Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, +and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading +the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. +Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville +another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon +Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, +woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by +the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth +in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so +experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted +turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for +9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; +took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for +two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor +where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. +formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to +William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for +Unitarianism. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH. + +Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the +steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful +morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and +one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very +perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but +unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons +leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the +neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to +Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in +a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the +last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden +about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the +Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. +very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking +better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old +country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all +American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of +the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the +carriage three dollars. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH. + +Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied +the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to +the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery +particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 +observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first +but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5 +minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and +dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; +one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. +Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on +the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky +and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the +attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two +of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; +a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with +females. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH. + +James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who +wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in +drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the +fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means +of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart +suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the +front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the +market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. +Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has +been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he +considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each +side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the +Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the +circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by +means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by +the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful +shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful +white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful +road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most +charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at +either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, +and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met +Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton +was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at +Toronto. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH. + +Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron +Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather +smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of +Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and +agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. +Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a +Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no +guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a +mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately +owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the +Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through +the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. +Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once +between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat +till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. +D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH. + +Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at +all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of +enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. +B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went +to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina +not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all +extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed +by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and +uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with +young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, +also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J. +D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent +preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of +females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham +Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. +desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the +country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. +Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than +two or three. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH. + +Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. +Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a +difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera." +Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not +find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who +gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited +the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good +collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of +different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte +maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me +to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of +going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the +house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and +doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be +mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and +borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of +England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight +carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. +made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy +affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like +them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH. + +Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at +breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss +is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another +copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s +warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, +and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. +Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; +only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; +a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two +dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the +passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. +Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or +2-1/2_d._ each. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH. + +Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up +felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with +it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. +Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did +not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I +would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The +Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. +Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, +who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time +girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she +could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at +Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away +from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be +considered stout. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH. + +Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for +breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning +warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, +and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able +to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three +slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well +upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices +of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to +Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours +and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of +twenty shillings. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH. + +Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant +dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little +way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very +quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had +been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is +managed much silenter than with the _Britannia_; a calm all day, the +evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading +Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some +conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards +insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best +by a good time piece. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH. + +Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach +was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him +without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, +going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of +Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many +petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X +upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. +Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening +about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a +good lunch. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST. + +Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had been +making about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read before +breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two +sermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of the +steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly, +but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. +Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about the +talents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. +Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had +mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament +was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was +published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of +printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it +and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a +library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated +of this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's +"Sermons," one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even of +our best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. About +ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze which +we enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering the +equinox. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND. + +Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. not a +very minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the sea +till last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day the +same gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but +admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written home +the most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80 +degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal +of Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather sickly, +such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD. + +Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the wind +having been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Advice +to Young Men." A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day; +air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling +languid. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH. + +Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well all +night; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourable +from 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American +Constitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the +two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a young +gentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters. +Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing." + + The shortest passage to Liverpool + 15 days 16 hours. + The shortest passage to New York + 17 days. + James L. Wilson, + _Hibernia._ + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH. + +Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and the +last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less. +About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished. +In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America," +and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. calling +Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a military +character, violating every treaty, the English always right; when told +of B. attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might and +probably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if +such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying out +Church and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or three +errors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such a +defender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial character +of the French. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH. + +Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven +8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64 +degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom +extends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened +and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At three +passed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small bird +resembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast. +The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about +refusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained +during the evening. + +Difference of time two hours from New York. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH. + +Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sister +Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast we +passed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached to +a sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines. +All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, +passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, +supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; very +cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH. + +Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffe +and John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had been +going all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65 +degrees. + +After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots; +the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularly +between 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the state +room; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On +getting money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read three +of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of the Poor" and "Unjust +Judges," also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara." + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH. + +Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of my +dear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and then +coming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south and +consequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last +night. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continued +between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield." + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH. + +Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficulty +in shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, and +about eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea which +sprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield." +One of the sails tore down. At one P.M. observed a brig going westerly; +the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only a +part of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke most +beautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos." + + +WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST. + +Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, excepting +dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourable +but more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. +Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be +very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced +towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off. + + +THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND. + +Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my +father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one +of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till +about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly +a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind +with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2 +o'clock. A few porpoises. + + +FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD. + +Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleven +o'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read a +little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." A fair wind all day, going eleven +knots; cold though the wind is south-west. + + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH. + +The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night about +ten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line of +packets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have ten +or twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth +share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about pay +with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 years +old; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French lady +at Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children. +A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usual +exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. At +dinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good deal +of factories," declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland +also acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to +numbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it might +be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson's +Dic.") + + +SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH. + +Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made no +way. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially as +we approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a +brig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older +attended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons." +A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by the +Yankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday +at 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done by +Captain Wilson. + + +MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH. + +Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence of +the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or six +knots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4 +knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing +the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through the +water and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vessel +sometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such force +that I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at +Shuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares +with figures making 15 each way. + + +TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH. + +Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected, +that we had had only light winds and made little progress through the +night. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of +"Land," we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on +the horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and also +Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's "Orations." Soon after +seeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think I +should see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has +been favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About half +past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale. + + +WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH. + +Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passing +some high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, the +other outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar +lighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. +Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail +all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, the +clouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six a +lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a +light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In +1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat +alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He +brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was +hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably +increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no +doubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which +is the number of the _Hibernia_. + + +THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH. + +Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reported +the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on the +favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I was +unconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. Passing +Great Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the _Archer_ that +I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came up +with four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve and +therefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith +says, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; the +boat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft. +Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a little +before two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long in +hauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, too +late to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on +shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden. +Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into the +Liverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's +letter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr. +Crook's. + + +FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH. + +Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet, +3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paid +for box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage +from packet, they wanted much more, 6_d._ for calling a car, the carman +asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enter +the yard therefore paid another 6_d._ to the porter, leaving me only 2/6 +and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I +spoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but he +did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay at +Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed as +if I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman who +was quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to +strangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed the +money and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have asked +him to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name and +asked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton. + + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH. + +I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They had +just dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat little +dinner. + + + + +LETTERS + + +-1- + + Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. + + From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON. + +My Dear Sir, + +Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, the +bearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native town +of Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respected +friend Dr. Taylor. + +Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing a +portion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but great +men to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when the +moral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail," one of the most +happy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days in +Washington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in your +store, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness by +showing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him +any sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige +your + + Sincere friend, + THOS. HULME. + +N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor. + + +-2- + + From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD, + Senate Chamber. + + Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. + +My Dear Sir, + +Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. Robert +Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton, +who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and who +intends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be +still living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted +with Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please +introduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish +him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you may +render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend + + THOS. HULME. + + +-3- + + Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834. + + To Mr. JOHN HULME. + +Dear John, + +The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in our +native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good +country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give him +some idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it, +compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee can +make him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville not +forgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my +best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the best +offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be well +treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him to +avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness as +possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy truly +affectionate father + + THOS. HULME. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Liverpool. + +[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister. + +[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton the +African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these. + +[4] Adam Fergusson. + +[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to +prevent the water entering in a storm. + +[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga +Americana). + +[7] See a description of this phenomena in the _Nautical Mag._ Oct. +1832. + +[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous. + +[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels. + +[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, +writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30. + +[11] Founded in 1831 by Étienne Girard, a native of France, for the +education of orphans. + +[12] Richard Crook, a friend. + +[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837. + +[14] William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England. + +[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston. + +[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825. + +[17] Since removed as unsafe. + +[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and Lake +Ontario. + +[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High +Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British +North America." + +[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States. + +[21] Built in 1823-32. + +[22] Built by the French in 1755. + +[23] All three had recently been rebuilt. + +[24] Died at Boston 1832. + +[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775. + +[26] _Constitution_, American ship in war of 1813. + +[27] William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at +Boston from 1803 until his death. + +[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were +removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885. + +[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feet +high. + +[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804. + +[31] Botan. Conocarpus. + +[32] A light four-wheeled carriage. + +[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842. + +[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford. + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing + in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular + punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + +***** This file should be named 24626-8.txt or 24626-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/2/24626/ + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Journey to America in 1834 + +Author: Robert Heywood + +Release Date: February 15, 2008 [EBook #24626] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + + + + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<h1><small>A JOURNEY TO<br />AMERICA IN 1834</small></h1> + +<hr /> + +<h1>A JOURNEY TO<br /> +AMERICA IN 1834</h1> + +<p class="hd1">BY</p> +<h2 class="hd3">ROBERT HEYWOOD</h2> +<p class="hd2"><small>OF THE PIKE, BOLTON</small></p> + +<div class="figc1"> +<img src="images/001.png" width="17" height="41" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">PRIVATELY PRINTED</p> +<p class="center">1919</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center">One hundred copies printed for<br /> +the Editor by J. B. Peace, M.A.<br /> +at the University Press<br /> +Cambridge. October, 1919.</p> + +<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> +<h2>ROUTE</h2> + +<p class="hd4"><small>(<i>The numbers indicate pages in the Journal</i>)</small></p> + +<div class="bk1"><p>Bolton (<a href="#Page_1">1</a>).</p> + +<p>Liverpool <i>to</i> New York, <i>by packet "Britannia." May 1-June 8</i> +(<a href="#Page_1">1-23</a>).</p> + +<p>New York (<a href="#Page_23">23-26</a>).</p> + +<p>New York, <i>by steamer and stage via Princeton and Trenton to</i> +Philadelphia (<a href="#Page_26">26-30</a>).</p> + +<p>Philadelphia, <i>by stage via Frankford and Schuylkill and steamer to</i> +Baltimore (<a href="#Page_30">30-34</a>).</p> + +<p>Baltimore <i>to</i> Washington (<a href="#Page_34">34-36</a>).</p> + +<p>Washington, <i>by stage via Alexandria and Mount Vernon back to</i> +Washington (<a href="#Page_36">36-37</a>)</p> + +<p>Washington, <i>by R. Potomac to Fredericksburg, then stage via +Orange Court, Charlottesville, Brookville, over Blue Ridge +Mountains to</i> Staunton. <i>Jenning's Gap, Charrodale, Warm +Springs, Hot Springs, Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Kamley, +Deak, Hawk's Nest, R. Kanawha, Charleston to</i> Guyandotte, +<i>thence by steamer down R. Ohio to</i> Maysville (<a href="#Page_38">38-44</a>).</p> + +<p>Maysville, <i>via Hillsburgh, Paris to</i> Lexington (<a href="#Page_44">44-45</a>).</p> + +<p>Lexington, <i>by stage via Frankford to</i> Louisville (<a href="#Page_45">45-47</a>).</p> + +<p>Louisville, <i>by steamer up R. Ohio to</i> Cincinnati (<a href="#Page_47">47-48</a>).</p> + +<p>Cincinnati, <i>by stage via Reading, Lebanon, Wainville and Springfield +to</i> Columbus (<a href="#Page_48">48-49</a>).</p> + +<p>Columbus, <i>by stage via Zanesville, Cambridge to</i> Wheeling (<a href="#Page_49">49-50</a>).</p> + +<p>Wheeling, <i>by steamer up R. Ohio to Steubenville, thence by stage +via Paris and Florence to</i> Pittsburg (<a href="#Page_51">51-52</a>).</p> + +<p>Pittsburg, <i>by stage via Butler, Meadville and Waterford to</i> Erie +(<a href="#Page_52">52-53</a>).</p> + +<p>Erie, <i>by steamer on lake, via Portland, Dunkirk and Silver Creek to</i> +Buffalo (<a href="#Page_53">53-54</a>).</p> + +<p>Buffalo <i>to</i> Falls of Niagara (<a href="#Page_54">54-56</a>).</p> + +<p>Niagara, <i>by steamer on lake via York, Toronto, Port Hope, Cobourg, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>Kingston, Brockville, and Prescot to</i> Montreal (<a href="#Page_56">56-59</a>).</p> + +<p>Montreal, <i>by steamer on R. St. Lawrence via Cornwall, and Three +Rivers to</i> Quebec (<a href="#Page_60">60</a>).</p> + +<p>At Quebec, <i>Beauport Lake and Montmorency Falls, and back to</i> +Montreal (<a href="#Page_60">60-62</a>).</p> + +<p>Montreal, <i>by steamer via La Prairie, St. John's, Plattsburg (on +Lake Champlain) to</i> Ticonderoga (<a href="#Page_62">62-64</a>).</p> + +<p>Ticonderoga, <i>via Lake St. George to</i> Caldwell (<a href="#Page_64">64</a>).</p> + +<p>Caldwell, <i>by stage via Glen Falls, Saratoga, Ballston and Schenectady +to</i> Albany (<a href="#Page_64">64-66</a>).</p> + +<p>Albany, <i>by stage via Stockbridge, Seddon, Beckett, Springfield and +Worcester to</i> Boston (<a href="#Page_66">66-68</a>).</p> + +<p>Boston, <i>via Cambridge to Lowell and back to</i> Boston (<a href="#Page_69">69-70</a>).</p> + +<p>Boston, <i>by stage via Nahant, Pawtucket and Providence to</i> Newport +(<a href="#Page_70">70-75</a>).</p> + +<p>Newport, <i>by steamer to</i> New York (<a href="#Page_75">75-76</a>).</p> + +<p>New York, <i>by stage to Rockaway and Jamaica and back to</i> New +York (<a href="#Page_76">76-78</a>).</p> + +<p>New York, <i>by stage via Catskill Mountains, Cairo, Hobart, +Morrisville, Bloomville to</i> Delhi, <i>Green, Bainbridge to</i> Binghampton, +<i>Montrose, Pike, Orrell, Towanda, Berwick, Sugar +Mountain, Cherrytown, Columbus, Northumberland, Pottsville, +Tuscarora, Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk, Lehigh Gap, Easton to</i> +Philadelphia (<a href="#Page_78">78-92</a>).</p> + +<p>Philadelphia, <i>by steamer to Trenton, thence to Laurenceville and</i> +New York (<a href="#Page_92">92-94</a>).</p> + +<p>New York, <i>by steamer up R. Hudson via West Point on right bank, +by Poughkeepsie on left bank and back to</i> New York (<a href="#Page_95">95-99</a>).</p> + +<p>Sailed from New York <i>to</i> Liverpool <i>in packet "Hibernia," Sept. 16</i> +(<a href="#Page_99">99</a>).</p> + +<p>Reached Liverpool, <i>October 9</i> (<a href="#Page_109">109</a>) <i>and</i> Bolton (<a href="#Page_110">110</a>).</p></div> + +<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> +<h2>NOTES</h2> + +<p class="hd4"><span class="smcap">By Robert Heywood</span></p> + +<div class="bk1"><p>The <i>Britannia</i>, 125 feet long. Number of persons on board: +27 engaged on the vessel, including the Captain, two mates, +two cooks, two stewards and a carpenter, with nine passengers, +making, with 152 steerage passengers, a total of 188.</p></div> + +<div class="bk2"><p>The Captain, Wm. Sketchley, an experienced seaman having +crossed the Atlantic 132 times—very attentive to the wants +of the steerage.</p></div> + +<p>List of passengers:</p> + +<div class="bk2"><p>Mr. Bassnett from Preston, has been a good deal in Canada, +also in the West Indies and Holy Land.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hamilton, a clergyman of the Irish Epis., decrepit easy +Christian.</p> + +<p>Mr. Grindrod, a Methodist preacher going to Kingston as +a president from England, possessing more activity and +apparent piety.</p> + +<p>Captain Kenney, an officer on half-pay, had seen a good +deal of high life.</p> + +<p>Mr. Cayley, a good-looking but rather coxcomical young +man, he and his parents had resided at St. Petersburg.</p> + +<p>Mr. Webster, a native of the West Indies and had resided +there several years, his father more than 30 years, now +resided at Cheltenham.</p> + +<p>Mr. Seaton, an American, had crossed the Atlantic several +times and also been in the West Indies.</p> + +<p>Mr. Jackson, of Barnsley, rather deaf, but seemed to have +more money than wit; he and his two brothers carry on +an extensive manufactory of linen and woollen business.</p></div> + +<hr class="min" /> + +<p>The <i>Hibernia</i>, 108 feet long.</p> + +<div class="bk2"><p>The Captain, James L. Wilson, of New York, a jolly sort +of fellow with more navigation than religion.</p></div> + +<p>List of passengers:</p> + +<div class="bk2"><p>Mr. Street, formerly of Boston, now New York, dealer in +dry goods, chiefly Manchester where he had resided three +years; a pleasant sensible man, rather touchy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. Williams, of New York, a rattling talking fellow, not +much excepting having got some dollars, now setting off +to make a tour through Europe for the benefit of his +health; talks of soon learning French and singing; another +John Jones.</p> + +<p>Mr. D. Holzknecht, of Trieste, a good-natured sort of +person; his father bound for his return to Italy.</p> + +<p>Mr. Frankland, of Liverpool, a lively intelligent Quaker; +been two or three times to Italy, partly pleasure and +partly business; left in November and had been to New +Orleans and Quebec.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hopkins, of Hartford, Mass., a Professor going to +London to purchase philosophical instruments, and purposed +attending lectures in Paris, but not knowing French +I recommended him to Edinburgh which he seemed to +approve.</p></div> + +<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figc2"> +<img src="images/002.png" width="600" height="56" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2 class="hd5">DIARY OF A JOURNEY<br /> +TO AMERICA<br /> +IN 1834</h2> + +<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834.</h3> + +<p class="cap"><span class="dcap">Left</span> home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three +friends, Mr. Baker, Mr. John Dean, and Cousin +Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince's Dock<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>; +found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thence +we proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the +kindest attention. Received several letters of introduction +and valuable information; recommended me to take dollars; +sent a clerk with me to the money exchangers and also lent +me £150. Just then I saw James Turner pass by; he got +me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove down +with 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in +my portmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river +and ¼ before 6 were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. +The steamer left us at half-past nine <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> near the floating +lights. Charged £18. 18. 0.; went to tea ¼ past 8, found +nine passengers. Had a good deal of conversation with one +of them, an American, who seemed to be acquainted with +all the packets. Said he supposed the <i>Britannia</i> cost 40,000 +dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another passenger +had been in Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of +America; thought I should have ample time in two months +to see the most interesting parts of America, including +Canada. Recommended a covering during the night to guard +against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept +in drawers and stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> +being rather scanty narrow bed clothes. The sea placid so +as to allow getting comfortably to bed.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 2ND.</h3> + +<p>Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of cocks, etc. +Our live stock very considerable, consisting of a cow for +milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6½, +a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, +tea and coffee. A file of New York papers had been left in the +night by an American packet. Found the steerage passengers +had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish people +not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below.</p> + +<p>Began reading "A Tour through Canada." Found one of +the passengers going out to assist at a Methodistic Conference +in Canada. This forenoon the Captain told the helmsman +to go north about. The wind became favourable. We left +the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or +rather the Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much +relish for dinner. Munched one of mother's cakes and took +tea which I liked very much. Had a pleasant chat in the +evening; was informed about the watches which are reckoned +from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, making +what is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to +rest about half past ten. Soon after being in my berth found +considerable heaves 6 or 8 times, then still whilst I counted +20 or 25, then again heaving as before. This is occasioned +by what are called the Swells.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found +ourselves within 3 miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre +on our right. Heard the Captain speak to a vessel going to +Liverpool telling them to report us all well. Breakfasted very +well but soon returned upon deck as we expected soon to +lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten which threw +the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> +Ireland till past five when the land and we parted for some +weeks. About this time I became qualmish and went to the +stern to see if I could hasten the catastrophe by putting +down my fingers; this did not avail, therefore I descended +to open my store of camomile and black currants; no sooner +was this accomplished than I became sick three or four +times. I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept +3 or 4 hours. The ship rolled very much and the water I +heard splashing by; it seemed sometimes as if actually going +over. Two interesting circumstances occurred last night. +I dreamed that my father was actually alive and in his better +way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel—how +he had come there we did not know. What must be +the situation of the poor steerage passengers, about 100 +adults and a numerous set of children? A very happy +circumstance for us rather than the proprietors is that we +have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth +to himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it +becomes warm weather.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 4TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, +but found myself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did +not attempt to rise till twelve, and then unable to shave. +Sat sometimes in the sunshine and sometimes in the small +house, unable to walk and fearful of descending. Took only +a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended +about 7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when +I vomited, then drank a cup of tea. Last night I dreamed +that I actually saw my dear father alive and cheerful. Several +birds resembling sparrows flew about the ship and seemed +as if they had made an error in their reckoning as they +must be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but +deeply sympathise with the steerage passengers so crowded, +whilst with every attention I cannot but think my own +situation miserable.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONDAY, MAY 5TH.</h3> + +<p>A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt +sickly. Managed to shave without a glass. Sickly all day +and unable to take exercise. Sat in the upper house with a +quantity of flannel around my feet; urged by the Captain +to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my great surprise +found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sick +several times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, +took two of the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them +warm. Sipped of the currant tea and felt very comfortable.</p> + +<p>Morning dawn, crowing of cocks, 7½ bell rung round the +cabin. 8 breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. +12 lunch; shins of beef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, +fowls, beef, mutton, pies, puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, +French plums. 7 tea.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without glass, walked +on deck, got breakfast in the upper house with my two +clerical friends. Talked about the miseries of Ireland which +they both ascribed to the bad effects of popery, which +Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in any +other part of the world; one great proof was that the evils +were worse in Munster. When I mentioned France, they +said infidelity prevailed there, which I admitted to be the +case in the large cities. Dined above with the two ecclesiastics. +A good deal of rain with little wind. Then blew fair but very +cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one of the +pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; +commenced with Watson's "Life<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>," belonging to Mr. +Grindrod. Many gulls flying behind the vessel; a ship in +sight northwards. A poor hen escaped from the pen and +remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get her she +flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her +throat cut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +way. Hope to have got over my sickness. This evening we +all appeared below at tea, being the first time since Saturday +morning, the sickness continuing from Saturday evening +to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seaton +play chess. No great skill displayed.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. +Well enough to shave by means of a glass. Made an error +in reckoning the watch bells. On deck at half-past six. +Found we had not progressed much, the wind unfavourable. +No tides here, but assisted by the current make about two +knots per hour. About ten an improved <span class="smcapl">N.E.</span> wind which +continued most of the day. Cough nearly gone, sickness +also, breakfasted pretty well and dined heartily. I and my +two clerical friends ordered two bottles of champagne. +About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up +soon after five, proved the <i>A——</i> from Havannah bound +to St. Petersburgh and had been out 42 days; asked us +whence we came and whither bound, also the longitude. +Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage. The first +really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to be +recovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could +not be prevailed on to leave their hammocks; could not +speak a word of English. Found the steerage passengers +very respectable poor people from Lancashire, Lincolnshire, +Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, some +with a pretty good property which they found regularly +diminishing. A theological debate with Mr. Hamilton. +Read part of Lander's<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> "Travels in Africa."</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 8TH.</h3> + +<p>Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without +difficulty, but I forgot to rinse out my mouth with water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +according to my invariable practise. Very cold with stiff +breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. At dinner a warm +discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended that +agitation could only prevail where there was distress. See +the state of America; what could D. O'Connell do there? +About 5 we had what is called a squall of wind. I went on +deck and found the vessel on one side, and scudding steadily +through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying the +ship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51°, that I remained +a good deal below, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> +"Tour in Canada." The <i>Britannia</i> 125 feet long.</p> + +<p>Wines, etc., on board furnished by the steward at the +following prices:</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td class="td1">Madeira wine per bottle</td><td class="td1" rowspan="6"> </td><td class="td2">$1</td><td class="td1">.50</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Sherry</td><td class="td2">1</td><td class="td1">.50</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Port</td><td class="td2">1</td><td class="td1">.25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Claret per bottle</td><td class="td2">1</td><td class="td1">.25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Champagne per bottle</td><td class="td2">2</td><td class="td1"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Hock or Moselle per bottle</td><td class="td2">1</td><td class="td1">.50</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky</td><td class="td3" rowspan="2"><span class="curly">}</span>per bottle</td><td class="td2">1</td><td class="td1"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial </td><td class="td2" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Porter per bottle</td><td class="td1" rowspan="4"> </td><td class="td2">0</td><td class="td1">.37½</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Cider</td><td class="td2" rowspan="3"> </td><td class="td1">.25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Soda Water</td><td class="td1">.12¼</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Saratoga</td><td class="td1">.25</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 9TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested +well the first two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards +a good deal of rolling and pitching of the vessel. The +conversation this morning at breakfast chiefly on the expense +of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stout box coat charged +ten guineas which was pronounced very cheap, though I +cannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for +£6. 6. 0. Mr. S. said that 400 dollars was not unusually +paid in America. The wind still from the north and therefore +favourable, but still very cold. After dinner played three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all. Learned +from one of the seamen that the <i>Britannia</i> is about seven +years old, and is expected to continue as a packet about +two years longer. Squally again towards night with a good +deal of heaving. Tried fishing but not successful. After +reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I went to rest soon +after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have a small +hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went +into ribbands.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled +tremendously and between one and two I heard a considerable +bump, the vessel lurched and we shipped a heavy sea, that +is the water flowed over us. I continued in a state of great +suspense hearing all sorts of things tumbling about and my +looking glass dashed on to me in my berth; put my knees +against one side and my back to the other to prevent being +tumbled out. For the first time began to regret coming. +Often near asleep and then the vessel so much on one side +I could not help fearing it going over. Not being able to +sleep I got up before seven <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span> Found the sea very greatly +agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by the +foam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in +pursuit of anything we might throw away. The ocean has +the appearance of hills and vales and the heaving on one +side I found was occasioned by going up the sides of the +hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After reading +Watson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> +Then went on deck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and +that wrong, rain, and rather sickly. An elderly sailor at the +helm said we had a strong gale in the night; but at this +time of year it was not much minded and told me it was +quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteen +dismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the +deck. Saw a ship yesterday. The gale again increased<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +towards evening and I feared a poor night. A very good +pancake half way across the Atlantic.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 11TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the assurance +of the impossibility of the ship being blown on one side. +Remained awake several hours and afterwards found it +assist to lie on one's back when the ship is rolling. Whilst +on deck the sea suddenly broke over the side. I escaped by +means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson got a +complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a +religious service which was assented to, and our clerical +friends promised to conduct it. At eleven we had the Church +of England Service read by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod +acting as clerk and also closing the service by an appropriate +prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and praying for +a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the +vessel, also the Captain and family. It was intended to have +a sermon preached to the whole crew in the afternoon, but +the weather proved too cold. The Captain said we had made +three degrees of latitude since noon the day before; would +not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day +or two we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship +or porpoises to be seen of all day.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, MAY 12TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, +but were glad to find this not the case, the breeze had +continued moderately through the night. Sensibly warmer +and consequently most of the steerage passengers appeared +on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises swimming +alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with +Captain Kenney about the English nobility, etc., and also +with Captain Sketchley, who said he had been more than +40 years at sea, chiefly between Liverpool and New York. +His family resides in Liverpool on account of Mrs. S. who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +could not bear the extremes of the American climate. Find +fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their family +already gone to America.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 13TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good +deal at times; and I found the sea a good deal agitated. +The wind continued to blow hard all day, the vessel rising +and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes one side nearly +down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling foam. +Early in the evening the dead-lights<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>, those at the stern, +were made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with +the skylights. The Captain said the gale was very unusual +at this season of the year; talked of the vessel being more +uneasy than she used to be. Captain Kenney now appeared +on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce were suddenly +swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. +Cayley. Towards evening the sky became darker and the +storm likely to increase during the night; this we found +the case and about ten we rolled tremendously; we all +seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a few +conundrums, etc.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH.</h3> + +<table class="figl1" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td class="center">1</td><td class="center">8</td><td class="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">5</td><td class="center">3</td><td class="center">7</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">9</td><td class="center">4</td><td class="center">2</td></tr> +</table> +<p>Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more +sail was hoisted that steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably +till half past seven. Nobody but I and Mr. Grindrod +seemed to have been inconvenienced. A delightful change, +the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sun shining. +A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers +about 1½ inch thick and 10 in. diameter, counting +thus, and the trenchers could be slided within the +lines;—claret—2 bottles of champagne being the +wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +to lie down, having had so little sleep. Whilst down +a ship passed to the west of us. Played two games at Chess +with the Captain who beat me though I had quite the game +and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, if successful +I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed. +Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to +be seen.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 15TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a pleasant night, found little wind and that not +favourable; in fact they tell me we are not nearing N.Y. +Finished Watson's "Memoirs" 667 octavo pages; a good +reply to those who have attempted a defence of slavery +from O. and N. Testament. Spent the day very delightfully, +being so warm that we preferred the shade. The wind but +light and not fair. Tried fishing but not successful.</p> + +<p>An old seaman who has been with the <i>Britannia</i> over +three years says he never knew a passage from England to +America made in less than 30 days.</p> + +<p>Played another game at chess with Mr. Seaton, had the +worst of it, but called away to dinner. Another play was +putting the feet in a swing rope and trying how far they +could go, being then chalked on the deck.</p> + +<p>After tea went on deck, a beautiful starlight night, a good +deal of singing. Jackson had ascended the rigging, was +followed by one of the seamen who tied his legs. The usual +penalty followed—a bottle of rum; he gave them two and +the evening passed merrily.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 16TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind +and that adverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. +Played another game with Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, +still unsuccessful. Had a slight headache, the atmosphere +feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey's chickens +or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +us some distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown +to it by the Captain.</p> + +<p>The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made +to America. At dinner a warm discussion on the Duke of +Newcastle doing "what he liked with his own"; also the +advantage of colonies, also the large military and naval +expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera +Cruz to Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since +we sailed. This evening played another game with the +Captain and lost. Went on deck and heard two songs.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 17TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from +Liverpool and could not get back in time for sailing; also +that I had had three suits of clothes sent in. Was sorry +to learn that the wind had died away and that we had only +made about 1½ knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a great +distance; about two they came within a mile of us; others +were also observed. Went down and wrote a few lines; the +vessel did not come near enough for us to speak to them. +Another ship passed in the afternoon but more distant. At +dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sell +for more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes +indeed. In the evening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said +he himself had two horses which he drove eleven miles an +hour for four successive hours; also spoke of the great +mercantile house of Parish & Co., Hamburgh and New York. +One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are +102 in the fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 18TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out +my better clothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. +Found the wind had continued moderately favourable. +A long discussion at breakfast respecting smoking. Mr. +Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars for thirty days<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +together, and did not consider it hurtful when taken properly +into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly as +generally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed +us this morning. At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious +service and seats were brought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read +the Church of England service, and Mr. Grindrod preached +a good practical sermon. In the evening the Captain proposed +to have an evening service, which was readily acceded to by +Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. read the evening service and Mr. G. +preached the sermon. In the morning service the prayer +for the royal family had given offence to some of the crew, +and therefore on the recommendation of the Captain, the +prayer was altered into all chief magistrates and governors.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, MAY 19TH.</h3> + +<p>Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear +father, who is now still more in my remembrance, and I +have frequently to check the expectation of seeing him on +my return. A truly delightful morning with an improved +breeze. Passed what is called a black fish<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>. Played a game +with Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and +favourable breeze continued. Immediately after dinner I +observed a current of yellow water about the breadth of +the ship's length, and about ½ or ¾ mile on each side, and +after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who was just +then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along +with others and he expressed very great surprise, almost +seemed desirous to turn the vessel about to look more +closely. He had never seen the like before, and should have +been alarmed had he seen it at the head; could only explain +it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud +had melted in that neighbourhood<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>. Had fiddle and dancing +particularly well done by the steward, cook, and some of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +the sailors. Played another game at chess with Mr. B. and +beat him. Although we have had a good fair breeze all day +we have not seen a single ship.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 20TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, +when a heavy shower of rain came on and the wind became +unfavourable. A ship seen at a distance; passed two others +early this morning. The wind continued unfavourable all +day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. Played +two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck +about ten and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The +Captain said he was quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon +yesterday of the coloured water, is explained by some of the +seamen supposing it to be the spawn of a whale.</p> + +<p>Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed +off the table and broken; also a tumbler and champagne +glass. One gull seen yesterday and two stormy petrels +follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us, partly +occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had +some affecting conversation with Mr. G. respecting my +late dear father. A fine evening, the wind changed and almost +became a calm. The ship gradually turned round to get +on another tack.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST.</h3> + +<p>Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. +A good deal of conversation at breakfast respecting various +kinds of fruit. America it seems is well supplied with tropical +fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels in Africa"; also read +before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze refreshing +though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. +Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw +doublets ones to sixes in succession in ten minutes, which +he accomplished in seven; he also surprised us by taking +up the dice by means only of the boxes. The wind continued<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. and +lost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have +great difficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting +my late dear father on my return.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 22ND.</h3> + +<p>Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found +the wind slight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, +all the sails squared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. +The wind about one, changed more south. A long sit and +chat upon the helm house with Mr. Grindrod. A very +good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not a vessel +all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance. +Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation +of meeting again my dear father.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 23RD.</h3> + +<p>Got up before six having not been able to sleep since +2 o'clock, such noises, pitching and rockings as surely never +were heard before. Found the sea greatly agitated and much +foam. I asked one of the seamen if he did not call this a +stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. The Captain admitted +that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all day and the +wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, +and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a +brig which we found was sailing before us; she had little +sail, and appeared to wish to speak to us, but did not come +sufficiently near. It has been one of the disagreeable days, +very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits depressed; +several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster +complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; +Captain Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad +digestion. In the morning the Captain persuaded me to go +to rest again and I lay down after dinner.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 24TH.</h3> + +<p>I passed a much better night and got up at half past six;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +was gratified to learn from the Mate who is not usually +encouraging, that we had been making way in the night; +pointed out a vessel passing us on the east. The Captain is +making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62 voyages; +been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, +very cold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. +A day of business amongst the steerage passengers exchanging +provisions. Much warmer on deck after dinner. Had some +conversation in French with one of the sailors who is a +Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatly +pleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of +the ship. Find the seamen are only engaged at New York +to Liverpool and back, their wages paid during that time; +this is the same even with the cook. The Captain every +Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all the cabin +passengers.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, MAY 25TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden +squall arose that tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. +On going upon deck the sea was much agitated, it +rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend. These +sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf +Stream; but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not +come on earlier; it continued to blow hard all day. Seated +at the stern watching the petrels and feeding them with +bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning and another +in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit +out and enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in +the cabin and a prayer made by Mr. Grindrod.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, MAY 26TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began +to roll about. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which +was the cause of the motion, which continued all forenoon.</p> + +<p>Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +Syria; and also at looking at some amusing caricatures of +Cruickshank's. The wind fair but very little of it, yesterday +a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact we have only had +once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A great +many gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, +and few petrels. Had we gone over the banks we might have +had some diversion in fishing, but the Captain was afraid +of encountering the ice.</p> + +<p>In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but +generally very foggy weather and changeable, either calms +or storms. This has been a very unpleasant day, a calm +with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, or even Mother +Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal of +champagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, MAY 27TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship +rolled and pitched more than I expected. When I went +upon deck I was agreeably surprised; a very good wind +from the north bearing us on very well.</p> + +<p>The scene diversified by a grampus<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> 8 to 10 feet long, +and a flying fish which is rather larger than a swallow. +About ten spoke to a vessel from Jamaica to London. +Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour, Syria, Egypt, +etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dear father's +departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to some +serious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At +dinner Mr. Jackson enquired what was the matter, upon +which Mr. G. very kindly explained the cause. Commenced +reading B. H.'s<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> Notes on Chili, Peru, etc., he is a very +pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out about +this time.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +lead to a change of the wind which still continues rather +favourable. Continued heavy rain till nearly eleven then +cleared up and the wind increased, but not favourable +taking us too much to the south instead of crossing the Gulf +Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland +but the Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if +there was anything done by the Almighty which he could +wish altered it would be the Gulf Stream; there is not only +a current against us, but great uncertainty as to calms and +storms. Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with +us to-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the +passengers trying to put their legs over an American flour +cask, and so raise themselves over it upon their feet. Went +upon deck and was much pleased with the appearance of +the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; the sides +of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the +ocean was covered apparently by fire occasioned by the +breakers. Passed the day without seeing either sail or fish.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, MAY 29TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed another comfortable night, found we had been +getting on pretty well; nearly out of the Stream with the +intention of shooting across the first fair wind.</p> + +<p>The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged +nine months. A stone with two lumps of iron are tied up +to sink the child. At six the bell tolled, the little thing was +placed upon a door and when the Minister, Mr. H. came +to that part of committing the body to the deep it was slid +off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten +by fish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon +deck, her name Johnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; +the husband I believe in America.</p> + +<p>Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father +last 29th May, surely this circumstance will help him to a +little more steadiness but this was hardly the case, excepting +as occasioned by yesterday's debauch. Mr. Seaton says<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +bastardy is not so common in America but always charged +to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he never +walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad +system, either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, MAY 30TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed another good night though dreaming more of +home and the warehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind +and that it had been the same during the night; continued +so all day but the rolling of the ship on going to breakfast +made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; in fact we pitched +and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part of +the day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should +consider it the most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, +no fish or anything to divert the tedium.</p> + +<p>This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. +Frequent jelly-like substances floating on the ocean of various +colours formed like a cockscomb commonly called Portuguese +men-of-war.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, MAY 31ST.</h3> + +<p>Another good night, found the wind favourable but not +much of this most of the night. A warm political discussion; +I stated that America and not Dan O'Connell was the great +political agitator. Speaking of the immense salaries paid in +England I said the Government was more in fault in granting +them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain +Kenney said he should like to subscribe to send the radicals +out of the country. I thought it would be better to employ +the subscriptions in getting all the democrats away. A dense +mist continued on the surface of the ocean till eleven, when +it suddenly disappeared. A ship discovered by Mr. Grindrod.</p> + +<p>I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment +of my dear father. Finished the second volume of +Hall's "Journal of a Voyage to Chili, etc." Learned from +Captain Kenney that the journey from London to Moscow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +by Hamburgh, Lübeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a +week for about £34; that there is no difficulty with regard +to passports, but that you must advertise every district +visited in the "St. Petersburgh Gazette," and that you are +leaving there in three weeks; you can then stop that time +but no longer in one place. At dinner we had some +interesting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting +future punishment and the different degrees; the latter I +was glad to find was the creed of Mr. G. between whom +and Mr. B. the conversation was carried on. On going on +deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did not approve +of such discussions.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST.</h3> + +<p>Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length +crossed the Gulf Stream; sensibly colder. The wind had +not been favourable since last night. A very considerable +mist occasioned by the warm water in the Stream coming +in contact with the cold atmosphere—very cold.</p> + +<p>The morning service according to the Church of England +read by Mr. H. but not so many present on account of the +cold—again in the evening with a sermon from Mr. G. from +John, 14th chap., 15th verse, "If ye love me keep my +commandments." Captain K. said he did not consider +himself a gambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or £400 a +night; once at Paris he lost a good deal. Since then he had +made it a rule not to give checks, but merely stake what +he had with him; when he lost the large sums they were +out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not +do for sea, port for instance; had several bottles changed +because not so clear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold +and a contrary wind; all the crew seemed to be getting out +of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he cost his father £3000 for +the 2¾ years he was learning the spinning business; he +admitted he had been very gay.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 2ND.</h3> + +<p>A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention +of going again to America. Delighted to find the weather +milder and the wind favourable; it continued thus all day; +rain came on about three; after dinner there was thick mist +which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours with the +helmsman and others.</p> + +<p>Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and +Harrison. Mentioned Coates with whom they did as much +as 10,000 pieces annually. Commenced reading "The +Refugee in America," a work by Mrs. Trollope<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared +we might run foul of some vessel, and after four we had a +good deal of rolling. On getting up I was greatly disappointed +to find the wind had been west all night, and also very cold +indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw the spouting of +a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. +Several other fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged +in cod fishing off the banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are +now within soundings.</p> + +<p>Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The +wind continued hard and cold; by "hard" is meant that +no change can be expected till it dies naturally away. Another +child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and I engaged +in reading together "The Refugee." No fish to be seen. +The day has been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable +for the poor children afflicted with measles.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH.</h3> + +<p>Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little +progress, the wind still unfavourable. Another child dead +of the measles. To reconcile the mother to interment in the +deep, a coffin was ordered. About one both children were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwark had +been taken away. Mr. G. officiated in consequence of Mr. +H.'s indisposition, and on committing them to the deep the +coffin did not sink. A great many passengers ran immediately +to the stern whence it was observed for more than ten +minutes, one passenger protesting that he still saw it, after +others had declared that it had sunk; so that what was intended +as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body +had sunk instantly.</p> + +<p>Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being +so much warmer we were all in better spirits. A most +glorious sunset this evening. The cook considered to be +very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening with some of the +sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drink +than usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind +had continued favourable all night.</p> + +<p>After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 +letters, many of them double, treble, etc., besides some +hundreds of parcels, with a great many newspapers most +of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i.e. half past eleven, +a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail was immediately +taken in—rain and much colder, also much rocking +of the ship; we have to be thankful that it has happened +now, rather than in the night and especially when nearer +land. Immediately after dinner one of the most terrible +rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses were broken +this day than on any former one. About two we had quite +a thunder storm with very heavy rain. After dinner we +went to the stern and had the most terrible heave, and such +a sea as we had never beheld before and all this at the end +of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms, tried to +fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful. Yesterday +a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +down about four but the sea continued rolling; in fact it +must have blown harder from some other part to have raised +the sea so much.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the +ship rolling so much. Most truly delighted to find that we +had had favourable wind since eleven, and now with this +wind from <span class="smcapl">N.E.</span> which is likely to be more permanent we may +fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there came on +a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it +became necessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger +sea broke over than any I had yet seen. About two it lessened +and the sail was again increased. After dinner, about five, +the delightful word "Land" was announced which made us +all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deck and was +just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a most +agreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke +over the ship than I had seen before, and now at six we are +sailing in smooth water.</p> + +<p>After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings +became saddened by the recollection of never again beholding +my dear father, and these no doubt will be my sensations +when I get back to my native land. Another most glorious +sunset, a cloud covering the upper part of the low coast of +Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made it have the +appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautiful +clouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH.</h3> + +<p>A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to +help us on. At noon another child died and was interred. +Very hot. The Jersey coast seen this morning. Mr. Seaton, +a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/- worth this +voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward—also wine bill 10 +dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +16 lost at cards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of +the coast. Long Island a very low sandy shore. Unfavourable +breeze till after dinner when all at once it changed. A beautiful +sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, and one from Ireland +filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five men from a +revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an +account of the cases of merchandise and passengers; he +appeared a pleasant sharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said +a lieutenant. One of the seamen sounded ringing the number +of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came on board, said +they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been +towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in +one boat, and brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor +soon after ten to stem the tide. The cow seemed to recognize +the land, poking out her head and snuffing the land breeze.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH.</h3> + +<p>A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let +down about half past six. A fine view of Staten Island. +The pilot says we are about 14 miles off the quarantine—got +Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the <i>Royal +William</i>, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had +arrived safe.</p> + +<p>Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we +have to anchor to stem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about +two, became delirious. Saw a steam boat I proposed joining +at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed to think it could not +be done without offending the Captain. I ventured to +mention it to him, mentioning Mr. B.'s illness. He said +he could have no objection and would join us. The flag +was hoisted, but either he was previously engaged or refused +to assist us. Got into the boat hanging on the side of our +ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us. +As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many +porpoises. Got on shore at Staten Island at seven o'clock; +stept across the <i>Hercules</i>, an immense steamer; the land<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +quite strange to my feet, the air quite fragrant and the grass +delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom. Took +tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also +turnips, radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out +and saw many fire-flies and heard all sorts of noises from +grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to the hospital for a doctor +to attend Mr. B.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 9TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant +morning. Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, +had slept only two hours, but thought this caused by a +powerful medicine. On walking or still more on standing +still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship.</p> + +<p>Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built +with shingles.</p> + +<p>Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the +hospital washhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large +dragon-flies. 95 degrees in the shade. A couple of oxen +drawing a cart. Paid 12½ cents for washing the clothes, +17 articles. For one day's entertainment at the Nautilus +Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, +also a plate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat +worked ahead, instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple +37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents. Called upon Francis Hall on +account of Mr. Grindrod.</p> + +<p>At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, +whether one attends the meals or not. Set off to call upon +Thomas Dean; found him ill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. +just going into the straw. Complained of business being +very bad and likely to be so for the next two months. Rent +of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by +taking the wrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring +I was 2½ miles from the Hotel. On getting in, found the +table set out, partook of a little ham, and went to bed, +pretty well tired. T. D. cautioned me against over exertion.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning +of the night. I also awoke, found myself very warm and +feared I had done too much. However soon fell asleep. +Rose soon after six—another brilliant morning.</p> + +<p>Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. +At half past seven a gong sounded, the same repeated at +eight, the latter being the signal for breakfast. A long table +with bread, all sorts of fish, meat, cakes, strawberries, +attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T. Dean and +he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also +in exchanging my dollars which are at par or 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> making +2¾ in my favour. Went to the auction and am told that +the greatest part of British goods are disposed of in this +way; when once advertised they must be sold as people will +not lose their time in inspection; all depends on the scarcity +with regard to pieces, therefore requires great care in +watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-water +made palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters +in my portmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of +both sexes. All sorts of meat cooked in all ways; the peas +sweetened as in Italy. Dessert chiefly oranges and strawberries.</p> + +<p>Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also +the City Hall. Attended one of the courts trying a ship +insurance case; conducted like those in England excepting +that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge also in plain +clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are +sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. +Coming out of the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards +a good deal of lightning with some thunder.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. +Walked down to the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +Immense quantity of wood put under the boiler. Bathed +in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just in time for a most +sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a most +delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very +large cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, +a shoemaker; built a house costing 650 dollars, let the upper +part for 100 dollars and occupied the base himself with a +second wife, his former wife and child being dead.</p> + +<p>Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again +in Buffalo. Called upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in +5's, 10's with particulars as to their legal tender, etc., by +Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called upon Robert +Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my +return. Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. +but did not find him; mentioned that I purposed calling +upon my return. Bought beautiful oranges at ½<i>d.</i>, also a pine +for 10<i>d.</i> Then called at the American Hotel, found Jackson +who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. Mr. +Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, +walked up and down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops +where some books were sold very low. Paid my bill and +got everything nicely packed up, managed to put all into my +portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the bag.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the +People's line of Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket +50 cents, also to Princeton 150 cents. Most of the houses +on Staten Island are built by fishermen who take large +quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon +stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it +cannot be carted away till frost comes.</p> + +<p>Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer +returning from Charleston who showed me great attention, +also presented me with a stick of orange wood. On leaving +the steamer the road was so steep that but for an elderly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +lady who seemed so composed I should have been frightened. +On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was forest, +till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here +I engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned +by locusts, 17 years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful +white cottage which proved to be the residence of our +friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite astonished to +see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. +greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. +On going to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down +the bag and portmanteau, and set off without asking for +anything for himself or the turnpike gate. Walked about +in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. Walked +round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about +7 guineas an acre. The soil good and well cultivated with +rye, oats, maize, and bounded on one side by a good road +leading to Trenton, and the remainder by a beautiful +stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The +estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never +troubled by mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been +destroyed. They have five horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 +poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to find the B.'s so +comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to the +improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, +rising at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's +work, butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking +over old matters, etc.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH.</h3> + +<p>Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and +breakfast set out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away +till I promised to visit them again on my return to N.Y. +Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the steamer down +the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on +the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. +A pleasant sail and view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +to one of the Rail line porters. Found Head's Hotel, +Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. After +dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a +long way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an +entire stranger, who waited until my return and then +accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. not in, and agreed +to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee that +refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, +with gilt pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The +performers tolerable; the pit seats rise very much. Though +twelve o'clock I found the table set out at the hotel, got a +little ham and went to bed. The streets all in right lines, +but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal +of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At +dinner had only some boiled mutton and peas which I +found very good, also a little tart and some strawberries. +I think of declining to take wine and I am advised to try +cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead +of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in +driving away the flies that are getting numerous. A mocking +bird that sings most of the night.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. +Had a walk down street before breakfast.</p> + +<p>The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. +Called upon Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious +reception. After showing me through the lower part of the +house and the curious filtering machine, also the mode of +getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, +where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then +punched and then put into a machine to letter the edge, +then placed under the die and then very quickly ejected in +a complete coin. Also a curious process of extracting gold +from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of revolving +vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with +machines that planed and grooved the boards leaving them +quite ready for laying down. Thence to the water works +where the river Schuylkill forces up its own water (rather +reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, found +five large water wheels at work and preparations for two +others. We came back in a stage coach and were charged +only 25 cents for both. Went to enquire about the Frankford +stage which leaves at nine. Went into a large Quakers' +meeting house—both Pilling and John Wood in town, but +could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a +handsome edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in +the sky.</p> + +<p>Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used +though there is much coal of a kind very black and shining +like pitch, and giving out heat without blaze. The evening +was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that the stars seemed +nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as light.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; +the best bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. +Two blacks driving away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the +verandahs or shutters closed to keep out the heat. Called +upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two Miss Hulmes. +A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of steps +and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, +a column on each side and an inscription over "This is life +eternal." Mr. Furness preached an excellent sermon +"Examine Thyself." The singing chiefly by the choir with +a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. to a neat +though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an +interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. +We spent a pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see +the inclined plane where an accident had recently happened;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +walked over a very large wooden bridge covered over and +supported upon stone pillars. An interesting discussion +respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening +service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should +serve Him?"</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 16TH.</h3> + +<p>Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. +Went to see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at +half past eight at the Exchange. Looked over some English +papers. After waiting some time found the Frankford stage +left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did not go till +ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, +some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles +some laid on their back to keep them from running away; +the snapping turtle very savage, if once it lays hold, nothing +but the knife can part it.</p> + +<p>Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past +eleven. Went to Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. +or learn anything about my uncle. Went to other works +and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not +find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the locusts +that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two +to present to C. D. and Mr. B.</p> + +<p>Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear +nothing of him. Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way +found his brother who keeps a store. On asking him he +seemed to hesitate and went into the house to make further +enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working +at his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about +three weeks ago having scalded his leg, almost insensible +towards the last. This Pilling it appears married a daughter +of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first sight. They immediately +set the table out and urged me to stop a day or +two with them. On my declining he put on another coat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +and accompanied me on the way, when he disclosed to me +the melancholy news of his uncle having cut his throat, +then denying it and saying somebody else had done it.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH.</h3> + +<p>Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; +in less than five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked +up to the stage office and set off at eight; found it carrying +the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh ¼ before ten, paid only +25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works immediately, +found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. +That uncle had come from New England booking at a +Croft, 18th Decr., that since he had worked very regularly +not missing a day in 6 or 12 months, spent his money in +drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a public house; much +respected and particularly so by P., had grown corpulent, +scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days +since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars +per week, half past four to half past six being a quarter of +a day over. Had appeared rather depressed of late and +wished to go home, still more so when he heard of my +father's death. A subscription was begun among his men +to pay his passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to +overcome him as his memory had been failing at times. On +the 14th May he eat a hearty dinner, smoked his pipe, went +upstairs as if to lie down for half an hour. Came out and +entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him and +immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it +by two women who happened to be going by. He denied +it and walked towards the pump, a doctor was sent for but +no help could be afforded and he died in less than an hour; +he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended +by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown +by a numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen—had a +good coffin.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH.</h3> + +<p>About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately +a flash of lightning; this increased so much that though the +shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a +blaze of light which continued some time, then louder +thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a perspiration, +after some time it abated a little, then returned with redoubled +fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly +an hour; it was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that +I had seen nearly the worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. +and also the driver of the stage who did not think he had +seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over to +Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my +letter to Mr. Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to +Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out together at half past three. +On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson and also Captain +Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne with +my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him +and three daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove +to the Penitentiary where vicious youths are endeavoured +to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, +cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence we visited +the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; +all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to +walk in for one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the +whole. Then we went to the Alms or Workhouse which is +on a magnificent scale; thence to the Hospital, passed over +two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent the +evening at Mr. Hulme's.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH.</h3> + +<p>Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from +Sicily. Whilst he fetched me the card, I took the opportunity +of desiring the old school companion to urge upon his friend +more temperance. The streets cleaned by a spray current +from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found +him gone from home to a farm about three miles further +to which they were removing in a day or two; only saw +his son about 16 years old; enquired about his sister who +was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with mills +worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years +ago. Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. +On my way observed the college<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> building by Girard's +money and on getting into the city entered two of the +splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two +trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a +biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended +to mercy on account of ill-treatment by his mother. The +Judge, Mr. Keen, very clever. Thence to the Museum to +look at the Mammoth, a good collection of animals, birds, +etc., also some good portraits of distinguished people, +amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James +Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended +being with Dr. Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great +ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards high. Called again upon +Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. Taylor's and +finished at the Hulmes's—12 o'clock.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH.</h3> + +<p>Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer +sailed soon after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. +and others to Baltimore. Took breakfast soon after seven, +the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with Richard Crook. +A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a +very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was +hardly possible to stand upon deck.</p> + +<p>After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who +kindly walked with me through the city. Greatly disappointed +with the Cathedral, only a very plain edifice with two good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +pictures; charged ¼ dollar, by a zealous old Catholic who +seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who wished +to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine +column of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of +Washington. Came to the Court House, better than that +at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. From the column +we had a very delightful view of the country all round. +Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be +forwarded to Washington and again to Quebeck after +two or three weeks; mentioned writing home from Washington +and Boston.</p> + +<p>Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, +also had music and singing and a good imitation of singing +birds. Went to bed soon after ten; the bread at Baltimore +very good. The horses' tails not cut in this country, being +so useful in driving away the flies.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST.</h3> + +<p>Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and +then heated and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel +six storeys high, a square of nine windows besides outbuildings, +above 170 bedrooms, ours No. 76. Called with +Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel more +extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. +Buzzards, a species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some +disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. +The soldiers and officers in curious working dress, the land +generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering over +some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington +at two o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid +building. After dinner a very heavy close shower of rain +with thunder; cleared up soon and the evening proved +delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an +extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He +seems a little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has +been nearly seven years from home. Speaking of this country<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +he said how a man may get on to a certainty if he exerts +himself, more a matter of chance in the old country. Gadsby's +Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or Head's, +particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. +Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being +102. Not feeling very well, partly occasioned by too much +exertion in Philadelphia.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND.</h3> + +<p>Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which +R. Crook said had been very vivid.</p> + +<p>Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the +Capitol, a beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by +painting. Heard a sermon Matthew vi and verse 2, in the +House of Representatives, a beautiful place something like +the <i>nisi prius</i> Court at Lancaster. Each member has his +own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps +enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; +a large gallery behind open to the public, that on the other +side for ladies.</p> + +<p>Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and +there being no particular object. In the course of the afternoon +the clouds began to gather, soon after six there were +flashes of lightning, which continually increased with +thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set off alone to +the Unitarian Church, R. C.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> nothing minding, and in fact +the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just +able to get along between every flash, found no service in +consequence of the storm; managed to get safe back, and +afterwards engaged in witnessing the sublime spectacle +which continued till after nine; very fortunate that it came +on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made +pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases +to the galleries of Congress and many places covered with +tobacco spitting.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 23RD.</h3> + +<p>Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast +and had a pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two +or three boys driving away the flies by means of large ostrich +feathers. Find that it is not common to sell slaves by public +auction. F. T. said it was believed that if made free next +winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning +St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a +different race of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by +Mr. White, M.P. for New York, to see the President<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>; +waited a short time in an ante-room with others, then were +ushered into a large room furnished with books and papers. +A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, +and on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook +hands. After a little conversation about losing his teeth by +attempting artificial ones, which had dragged the remainder +out until only his wise teeth remained, we left him, bowing +and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house or +palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five +or six times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; +and were shown into the Hall of Representatives; a great +many members present but not easily heard in consequence +of the muttering in the House. Thence walked through the +Dome containing several pictures, the <i>Declaration of Independence</i>, +<i>Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis</i>, and +<i>Washington giving up his Commission</i>. Thence went to the +Senate; was introduced to Mr. Clay who could not tell +me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had made terrible +ravages last year at Lexington.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up ¼ before 5. Left Washington at ¼ before 6. +Arrived at Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. +The bridge across the Potomack more than a mile +long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very well received<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams +of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of +the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the +Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain +brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked +through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake +and wine.</p> + +<p>Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for +some time; very few people, only now and then a negro +to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain +and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that +something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as +several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate +closed against the public. The Representatives' Hall very +full and some interesting debates, particularly the notice +respecting Lafayette's death, and also remuneration to the +families of the French sufferers at Toulon.</p> + +<p>R. C. is considered very fond of show—prefers very tight +boots, yet has four or five corns on each foot. Thinks +we could not do without wigs and gowns in our English +Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who will +put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount +Vernon, 4 dollars, though the usual charge for a day is +only 3. Mentioned writing home to Mr. B. from Boston. +R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> getting £5000 and not +spending £500.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast +enquired for a letter at the bar, then at the post office but +was disappointed. Visited the Patent Office, endless variety +of models of all kinds. Then to Pishey Thompson<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> who +kindly offered to go with me and also invited me to tea +and to bring F. T.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> +<p>Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many +likenesses of Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw +the bags containing conquered flags, and also models of +ships. Thence we visited the room containing the original +Declaration of American Independence; also several treaties +containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and +Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what +was still more extraordinary, a drawer containing many +gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff +box studded with diamonds presented by the Emperor +Alexander<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>, valued at £1000; all these things were left open +entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this +I consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I +predict they will soon have some plunderer, either Yankee +or foreigner; on going away we expressed our surprise at +the want of discretion; they said they had only missed one +small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited both +Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and well-furnished. +I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met +my old Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming +out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some +animated debates concerning the Indian States. Spent the +last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's where I had +the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey +I think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH.</h3> + +<p>Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little +more precaution necessary. Rose half past four, a very +pleasant morning. Tasted the second piece of pineapple +last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 cents.</p> + +<p>Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a +pretty general practice. Sailed ¼ past seven, observed some +boats not more than one yard across and about 5 yds. long +like small canoes. Saw two turtles opposite to Washington<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of grass on the +Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by +the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but +the last whilst at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; +paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to Charlottesville, the road so +far splendid, through woody country. Two intelligent +persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco +and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake +lying dead on the road side, about one yard long. The +worm fence generally used. The trees generally ringed, an +easy way of clearing the wood. The roads paved in some +places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut +Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, +honey, and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of +they said great uncertainty as to number; had to provide +for 10 or 12 and sometimes only two or three came. The +driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses kindly, +as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.</p> + +<p>Got to Orange Court ¼ past one, told we should be called +at three; objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards +shown another to myself, found the charge only 25 cents. +The greater part of the negroes are slaves; one 40 years of +age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to remain here +when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them +together; the worst are generally disposed of first.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.</h3> + +<p>Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at +four; the road worse than any existing coal pit road I ever +saw in England, full of ruts with stony rocks and stumps of +wood projecting. Arrival at Gordonville to breakfast at six; +paid 50 cents which I could not grudge as the coffee was +very good. The road generally better, but in one or two +places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and +long-nosed boars with bristles like porcupines, active in +discovering snakes; a black snake 2 feet long killed by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +coachman's whip; a little farther on a large lizard; a young +hare and two partridges; beautiful trees rising very high +on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering the +bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville +at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there +is danger of falling especially when jolting.</p> + +<p>Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good +plain dinner with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the +mountain, saw great quantities of whinberries; a delightful +stream of water near the summit.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; +sometimes the driver and I asleep at the same time, and the +road very hilly, quite wonderful that I should have arrived +safe. Many of the houses here are built as in Switzerland; +trees are just squared and notched, or dove-tailed at the ends; +sometimes the interstices are filled with clay or mortar. The +wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence +of only two hours the night before and riding +outside all day. Disappointed about getting a seat with the +driver, which was occupied by a coloured man whom they +would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly +American, asking many questions and lauding the country. +Passed through a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut +brushed across the coach and left a perfume behind. Paid +for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived ¼ past seven <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span> +Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this town +because not much frequented except at certain seasons to +the spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before +ascending a steep part of the mountain I got out to walk +but it began to rain and I had to resume my seat. The +streams of mud through which we dashed were quite +astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at +Charrodale on venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +One of our travellers, a German who plays on the guitar and +the pianoforte, along with three others; he sang the "Swiss +Boy" to us.</p> + +<p>I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were +not permitted to enter it; before we got to the foot of the +mountain there came on a terrible storm of thunder and +lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared up and we had +a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to the +warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had +snapt we should have been thrown down the precipice. +Got to Warm Springs at seven; took coffee. Then took the +bath which seemed very hot, though only called the Warm +Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though not +disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH.</h3> + +<p>Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the +thunder. The bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet +with; got up at half past four but not able to shave; obliged +to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt was made wet by +crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept down +to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn +the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over +mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief +danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the +drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; +a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water +a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting +of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker +of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore; a gentleman about +sixty with his wife and two daughters, one not more than +seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in London. We +had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted +reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off +to Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving +place. The hill before descending to the White Sulphur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +Spring I find is the back-bone, as the streams flow each way; +eastward into the Atlantic, and westward into the Mississippi. +For some time past the negroes have been so numerous +that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees +that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others +have been fired by lightning and others split by the same +means. A double-bedded room.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JUNE 30TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a +member of Congress. There were two others in the stage, +also a pleasing lady, wife to one of the members, also a +young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was returning +from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. +Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak.</p> + +<p>The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., +also a curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's +Nest a jutting rock, 1100 feet high and a magnificent view +of the river which does not appear 20 yards wide and is +more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, those +below looking mere shrubs.</p> + +<p>As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had +been washed down, therefore we were ferried over; the road +for some time carried alongside the rocks overhanging the +river. Arrived ¼ before ten at Kanawha, got supper and to +bed at ¼ past ten, to be called up at half past three. Eight +beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected +one of the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers +under my pillow. The names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. +Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had the first introduction +to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather mercifully, +or perhaps my blood was not to their taste.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JULY 1ST.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the +road observed two little bears chained; they are fed one or +two years and then eaten; these were about two months<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A beautiful drive along +the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains of fine +timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, +on good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in +the yard. Another young bear chained in a yard to be +fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven last year through one +turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up +and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains +on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out +of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The +negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless +put out by rain.</p> + +<p>Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the +coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and +disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to +have more than one with him. I insisted on the seat, at +length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a +pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest +trees. On descending the hills one of the horses ran the +coach wheel a little on the bank, so as nearly to throw it +down the precipice. Again we forded the river in consequence +of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at Guyandotte +on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered +the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding +the lightning and the shaking of the vessel.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds +could be adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed +my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; +saw a basket of offal beef thrown into the river; a warm +morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of hot +meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville +including breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased +with the cabin boy singing about "Father fighting for him +and liberty," "Tennessee and liberty."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<p>Arrived at Maysville at half past one.</p> + +<p>Took a julep consisting of 1½ glass of wine with plenty +of sugar and ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled +together, making a richly flavoured beverage. Took some +dinner but found nothing good but some cucumber and +onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday +a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At +sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and +bathed in the Ohio, most delightfully warm and the +current very strong. The river rose last winter but one, +63 feet.</p> + +<p>Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The +beach is high and consequently has a fine view of the steam +boats, which are often passing up and down this noble +river.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not +come in till eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when +a negro came to put down the window as he said a storm +was coming; presently I heard thunder which became +louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, +three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive +away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid +for dinner, supper, bed and breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat +moved across by means of six horses revolving round. +No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or ale, +the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the +best and worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and +macadam and limestone. Came to the blue or sulphur +springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon juice in +the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having +had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I +parted with Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the +young midshipman, with considerable regret. Mr. M. had +to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatcher<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten +o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found +three beds in the room, only one occupied. On the way +yesterday we found a good deal of hemp grown, and much +of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The land rolling or +undulated is generally well cultivated.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JULY 4TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old +friend R. M.; rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper +who is an Irishman, that the Monks were dispersed, only +one remaining in the neighbourhood. He offered to walk +with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums +announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be +celebrated in an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother +of Richard Monks was sent for by the innkeeper; +by him I learned the melancholy news of his brother's +death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington +and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the +half of a brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; +there his daughter married and settled at ——. Another son +at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. +Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement +and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even +Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized +Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against +Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were +peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter +or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.</p> + +<p>Paid 5½ dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a +quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have +left the room. A gentleman I met here said the labour +of the negroes in Louisiana cultivating sugar was excessive, +so that the women have hardly any children. A factory +5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned +by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. +Slept two or three hours till the stage left at 12.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JULY 5TH.</h3> + +<p>Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers +but these took special care of themselves, lying along the +seat sleeping all the way. The road exceedingly rough, so +as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. Arrived at Frankford +at six <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span>, a very crowded inn. Never saw more drinking +going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor +and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, +limestone macadamised. A good many beech trees with +some vines as thick as my leg climbing to the top. Only +two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable breeze, +so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. +On coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old +crazy bridge; changeable weather, thunder and rain and +still very oppressively hot between the gleams. Arrived at +Louisville ¼ past five <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> and felt less tired considering that +I had not been in any bed but moving on for some days. +Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office +two miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, +but could learn nothing till I called at the Post Office where +I got the information. Took coffee, then called upon him. +Found him very busy supplying with spirits, and gave him +Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again when he +was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JULY 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a +good breakfast with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to +Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, for which I paid 25 cents. +Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected immediately +as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a +very large steamer, the <i>Mediterranean</i>, 600 tons capable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +of 800, and boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, +sometimes goes to New Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.</p> + +<p>Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent +and very unusual discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse +by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes known to me. On coming +away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man +with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the +poor blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing +several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 +or 10 godly women and children enrolled themselves. Called +upon young Monks, had a pleasant chat and afterwards a +walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles through +rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a +young man had been murdered, two out of four persons +were found guilty and ordered to be executed in a month. +Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from the text +"Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I +ever heard—religion a science of duties, as we stand related +to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if +changed into synonymous language would be designated +only a good moral sermon.</p> + +<p>Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JULY 7TH.</h3> + +<p>Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself +with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and +regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now +at the most distant point from home.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the +steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called +upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then +left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to +write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The +table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting +of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. Dined about half +past one.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + +<p>A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came +off sadly worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, +but evidently too speculative a spirit, and consequently +credit much thought of. At six took some coffee +of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my +coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant—sparks +from the chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the +case with the <i>Mediterranean</i> the large steamer I saw yesterday. +A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of +sparks from the boilers with flashes of lightning, afterwards +almost one continued blaze with much thunder.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JULY 8TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness +in the small of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, +excepting a little given me by one of the passengers. Paid +for passage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and +breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into the +deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to +the <i>Erin</i>, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but +found it uncertain when she was going, therefore ordered +the baggage to the hotel on the brow. The man wanted +more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was +enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span></p> + +<p>1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with +lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one +the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid 6 dollars to +Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for +ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got +some most excellent bread, butter and milk for which I +paid 12½ cents. This seems a better conveyance than the +old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk for which +they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, +that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset +into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon +¼ before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drove<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +most furiously and the horses went like mad. Why should +tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost +everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with +bricks.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH.</h3> + +<p>Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling +night; such roads and such furious driving as enough to +break arms and legs, through pits of water after the logs +failed. Pretty good land divided into small farms, woods +rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and muddy, +still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called +a national road. Well there were no other passengers or we +should have been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the +last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most +of the way. Coming into Columbus such a flood that fields +of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of granite +washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we +had to be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6½ dollars. At the next +stage I was informed my name was not entered as having +paid my fare. During the night the coach stopt and I and +the other passengers were desired to get out, the horses +were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some time +they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud +and got in; very surprising that the roads are not better +protected by railing or walls, not even over the mountains +or ridges.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JULY 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. +Only two passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. +Arrived at Zanesville half past six, the last stage beautifully +macadamised. Sour bread and poor coffee. Got them to +allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as paid for. +Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the +drag chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +very hilly. A large waggon drawn by horses with sets of +bells. After walking I found the coach nearly filled so that +I got on with the driver. Observed some coal breaking out +on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally the +case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not +troubled with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio ¼ past +nine <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span>, too late to be ferried across, so that after taking +the mail at Cincinnati at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling +in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours we are obliged to stop +in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others in the same +room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the +road, especially being confined a day or two in some little +uninteresting spot—so far, however, I have been pretty +fortunate, and should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable +mortals, the more we have, the more we wish +to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual +with forest. This I believe is the character of the country +on both sides of the Ohio.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two +places in consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across +by means of a windlass letting down frame work into the +water, and altering the position of the boat. When arrived +at Wheeling hotel could hear of no boat till evening. Went +again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little earache and not +much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by disappointment +at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and +actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers +without finding much from England; then read some +good letters in the "North American Magazine"; felt in +better spirits.</p> + +<p>Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection +of wild beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, +but most gratified by seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each +four years old; the former had worn his teeth very much;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts his head twice +a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the +animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel +or dromedary (only one hump) also four years old. Sailed +from Wheeling ¼ past seven; the evening most delightful, +the air warm and fragrant, the sky remarkably clear; the +stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from conversation +with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday +have been considered very warm, also more thunder and +lightning than they had often seen.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JULY 12TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three +the coach quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through +Paris; the country is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped +at Florence to breakfast, the remainder of the way hilly. +On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home by the coal +and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty +steamers lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the +Alleghany, the latter a much clearer river. In the stage +met with an intelligent young man on his way to Erie, so +concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson (?) +half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and +saw them make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. +Walked across the aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 +dollars. Called at the Post Office, but again disappointed.</p> + +<p>Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to +sleep; this is one of the depressing periods. After coffee I +took a walk to the Catholic Church situated on an eminence. +Pittsburgh is in a valley surrounded on all sides by verdant +hills, and smoky as one of our English towns. This evening +is so serene that the moon does not appear half its usual +distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed +by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is +here, and this by way of protecting the road, also the first +time I had seen any horses' tails docked.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JULY 13TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed +almost the first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed +the Alleghany by means of a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast +25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; hilly most of the way; +a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several large ant +hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and excellent +coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in +America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday +is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; +said they had in their town a Mr. Channing, an Unitarian +and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so clever. The +coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 dollars; +this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the Alleghany +River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile +rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver +remained with it, and both escaped; had all the other +passengers remained in, it is supposed the accident would +not have happened. More like a Sabbath evening, the people +seated at their log houses reading. The moon very splendid +and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. +Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also +for tea 25 cents.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JULY 14TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One +of the passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. +This made me feel uncomfortable and I wished to sit with +the driver, but was deterred by being told of Kennedy's +brother, who had the year before fallen from the same +stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been +asleep.</p> + +<p>Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended +vale. Here I parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion +who is a paper maker. An old intelligent Irishman who +had come out thirty years ago, and had done very well,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic afflictions +and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but +luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has +been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not +appear much distressed; got a glass of buttermilk. Dined +at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had +got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with +dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to +Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo +till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean +shirt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get +ready in time; though perhaps it was only a trick of the +innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; +without now and then a check I should in uninteresting +places be hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell +in with a pleasing intelligent young man; now that they were +out of debt I said they might improve the public roads—he +said grants were occasionally made, but were objected +to as unconstitutional.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it +better than pushing on in the steamboat last night. The +young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the +student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen +would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon +discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied +on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the +wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span> not a nice boat +and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we +get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of +the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. +A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to +yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. +Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out +at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the +ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two +dollars and ½ for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance +Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted +to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not +fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and +recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at +Buffalo at 8 <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting +my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who +did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the +English Ministry.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I +suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; +taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. +Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful +breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady +and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven <span class="smcapl">A.M.</span>; +found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. +Arrived at Niagara soon after four <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> Immediately set +off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking +of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. +Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat +Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet +of water though only a small part compared with the Horse +Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down +Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to +the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece +of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown +away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into +the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. +Ascended the tower<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>, whence there is a more extensive +view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight +view of this most wonderful spectacle.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after +eight; paid the porter 12½ cents, but he wanted more for +cleaning my shoes. A favourable passage across as the wind +blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; +the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; +nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man +who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this +I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it +more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man +came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than +I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After changing +my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the +Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed +and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair +of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were +two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. +The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather +slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place +we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. +I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; +it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with +the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely +think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered +much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the +rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. +Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the +Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is +most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising +a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled away<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to +behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle +drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left +at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river +going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving +a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2½ dollars for book and map. +The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring +had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. +Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found +one of our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a +good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; +also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. +Sailed ¼ before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went +on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the +shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double +and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt +tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the +staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got +a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars +for passage including board. More satisfaction here than +waiting for the <i>Great Britain</i> to-morrow; our passengers +only about 8 or 10 and the cabin spacious and neat.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JULY 19TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast +at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read +a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than +the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. +A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New +York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this +country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting +a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and +again he was able to make more of these savings by further +investments or speculations. He thought there was much +less learning among the young men in America; they became +impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +and able to get on, and consequently little under the control +of the parents unless wealthy.</p> + +<p>Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope +half past four; got to Cobourg half past six, went on +shore and bathed again in the Lake Ontario, found the water +cooler. A group of young women with fresher complexions +than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the +water considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after +nine with two young men that are purposing going to +Quebec.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JULY 20TH.</h3> + +<p>During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than +I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty +in shaving and a little qualmish. Passed two islands covered +with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned +sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on shore +at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some +noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but +service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some +drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a +new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the +paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off +the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered +here in barracks, forts, etc.; two ships rotting upon the +stocks. The Rideau Canal<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> comes to this place, only good +as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old England? +Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An +old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with +beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At +seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on +rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera +reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still +I shall go on, hoping for the best.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JULY 21ST.</h3> + +<p>Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; +paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat +with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached +to each, a 1½ yd. long and ⅓ deep turning nearly upon the +centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left +at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank +and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. +The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became +suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling +up. The Durham boats<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>, as they are called, are drawn up +the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> ¼ past 11. One +of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in +the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees +different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid +Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young +Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny +thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; +sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water +towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very +brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe +with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the +females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian +language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another +delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more +Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen +since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. +The two last days have been spent delightfully.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.</h3> + +<p>Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about +my late dear father. Read some newspapers; then joined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +Mr. Bradner in a gig up the mountain (Mount Royal); went +the wrong way, so that we missed a good deal of the view +of the city and river but ascended again; not so pleasant on +account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some +ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked +into the Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two +galleries on each side and the seats below raised up from +the altar. Got back and then walked to the Exchange News +Room, read a good many English newspapers but found +nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. +Just before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the +steamer was not going to Quebec; could not believe till +I went down; they told me the agents had sent orders not +to go in consequence of so few passengers, but that they +certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more +passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and +Ready from Bermuda sauntered about till dusk. This is +one of the miseries of travelling, to be delayed in some +little uninteresting place, or after you have seen all that is +worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; +fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably +clean.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD.</h3> + +<p>Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called +at the stage office to enquire about the Post Office and if they +knew any Mr. Webster; was told he had left last night, tired +of the place, no wonder! Employed all day reading the +newspapers; an Indian came down by the wharf in a canoe +to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; +Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 +o'clock 96 degrees, but have passed the day very quietly +in a shaded news-room. In addition to the <i>St. George</i> +there is the Canadian steamer the <i>Eagle</i> so that I shall +surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been +unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +Whilst in the news-room the chief conversation was the +cholera; one of the gentlemen at table said the fear of it +had driven away 30 or 40 people from this house; surprised +to find myself so comfortable under all these circumstances. +Went on board the <i>St. George</i> steamer at eight, a noble +vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was +taken on shore, a young man looked very dismal, and said +she was taken with the cholera; she proved to have got into +a wrong boat which I took care to inform the young man.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected +the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on shore at Three +Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; +a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of +sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, +notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different +kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time +for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning +almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. +The shores on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good +coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of +one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours +late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may +not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, +and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get +in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post +Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but +was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. +The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden +at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion +Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; +William and young wife with her mother, who had come +from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. +William looking better but very thin, which they said had +been the case during the last three weeks in consequence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +of so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. +Thomas lives about 1½ miles off. Dined at the Hotel +(Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to +his sister's; the little girl sang for us.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly +upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, +in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I +cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young +Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went +over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an +open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. +Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but +was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small +room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. +He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I +expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which +caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come +to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours +gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she +left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to +pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport +Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, +and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of +raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income +at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had +received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.</h3> + +<p>Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency +Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first +disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set +off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several +pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; +the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with +T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's +grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> whence +I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended +by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined +plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four +horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not +find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was +rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little +after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got +2/- allowed. Paid 1¼ dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain +as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way +home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the +latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; +found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, +woollens and cottons.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.</h3> + +<p>Very noisy people during the night, apparently great +confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose ¼ past +six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a +Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the <i>Canada</i>, +12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. +A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal +at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie +though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings +till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to +La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a +written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the +lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off +to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. +Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell +me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; +a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the +Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> +pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to +find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen +had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes +were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had +been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they +expected a signal from the <i>Canada</i>. The Captain behaved +very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us +it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to +St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, JULY 28TH.</h3> + +<p>Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. +Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the +<i>Franklin</i>, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful +morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, +and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake +Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, +covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga +4½ dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with +turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, +walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether +the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted +with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, +with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a +dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took +a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow +with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass +and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg +on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and +allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained +only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with +distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; +an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a +delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy +slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second +course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed +in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and +the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be +landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the +greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded +rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had +a comfortable bedroom.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.</h3> + +<p>A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1¼ dollar for +lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the +ruined fort<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. +Tech—arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked +towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at +work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river +choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending +on the other side two Indian boys were fishing. The +mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. +We were told the highest mountain took fire about two +years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the +dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake +more interesting; several islands.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain +1½ dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of +a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious +about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea +with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. +At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast +at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, +found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. +The road very sandy; passed a place where the stage had +been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on the Hudson a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a little +Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, +the river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. +The ride very delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, +according to written agreement being 4½ hours, though +only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel to see as +much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; +150 to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some +of the gentlemen had their wine cooling in ice-water; some +very pretty ladies, and gentlemen rather better looking than +ordinary. Purchased a copy of the "American Traveller" +for 1½ dollars. Some good singing by a gentleman, also some +ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball at the +United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling +one another round very fast. At a loss to find my room +No. 156.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, JULY 31ST.</h3> + +<p>Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of +visitors leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water +and bought a ring. Left by the railway half past nine; the +seat I had was taken by a gentleman who moved, but was +revenged by getting a lady to take the place, so I mounted +aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the carriage +ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like +to have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a +disagreeable passage over and under the bridges at +Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same on landing; +an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and +engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some +deep ridges cut through and rather filled up. Arrived at +Albany at one. Met with an interesting young Englishman. +Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the river and bought a +sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. unable to +get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving +mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +then a grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all +of wood; then the Capitol or State House, and the City Hall<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>, +whence I had a magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. +After tea visited a plane manufactory. Many birds, yellow +like the canary. Went to bed at 8½.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST.</h3> + +<p>Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged +up and down the streets collecting passengers at different +inns. Forced to go by another route than had been intended. +The stage quite full and two with the driver; one next me +pushed me and said he did it more on account of a lady +near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast +passed rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the +passengers had left, I said I hoped he found room without +pushing; and told him in his regard for the lady, he had +not forgotten himself. After this we had a good deal of +pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut +into slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; +seven saws going at once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid +37½ cents for some poor coffee and tough chicken. Dined +at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37½ cents. One +sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep +land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths +mountainous and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great +neatness and still better fencing. Passed a long bridge over +the river Connecticut, and arrived at Springfield at half +past seven <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span>; though only stopping till three in the +morning I was shown into the best room I have been in +in America. Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. +Went to bed at eight. Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very +good and spacious room.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND.</h3> + +<p>Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +Passed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at +Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever +seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and +with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with +uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last +twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from +Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many +places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller +ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with +the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it +became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till +the last four miles when it became much colder and was +nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were +twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not +meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. +Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at +this great house—took milk and bread.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then +set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at +Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only +preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague +Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. +Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear +Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of +prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a +poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; +after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then +distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very +earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see +black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear +a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased +by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" +from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much +pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholars<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice +buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double +pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined +in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any +poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor +who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the +State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain +and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a +very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an +hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the +Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It +came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way +through the city. Passed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, +walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in +locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding +view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. +The monuments have usually the family name and the +Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly +melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of +Spurzheim<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a>. I allowed the horse to have his own way back +and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called +upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and +stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance +for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by +horses. Passed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; +from the Monument<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>, partly built, we had a fine view of +the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to +take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of +writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. +Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> +<h3>TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the +Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it +goes up and down collecting passengers; this enabled me to +see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of +it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day +found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, +partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop +plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return +at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found +strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the +manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was +in no way connected with such business he took me through +the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing +machine, also the winding effected the same way, the +carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the +Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread +and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by +locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp +or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that +I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. +Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery +all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, +then ½ hour for breakfast, ¾ of an hour for dinner, stopping +at seven, making 12¾ hours each day, and Saturdays the +same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women +in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different +tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did +not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at +half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2½ dollars. This +has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I +have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James +Dean.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +bath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a +yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found +his son from England who was kind enough to walk with +me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is +well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented +by the British Government; then into the News Room at +the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome +dock; then to the machine shop where they were making +blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the <i>Columbus</i> on the stocks, +also the <i>Constitution</i><a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> with Jackson's head cut off; then to +the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, +tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are +not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. +Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined +within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful +sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. +Arrived at 4½, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing +between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours +turned about to sternward to get a landing by running +between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. +Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only +six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a +Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took +leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, +76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham +and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont +House I asked for a glass of milk, but was disappointed, it +having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. +Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing +all over the city.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I +took black tea cooled down, and diluted by iced water. +Another fine morning; mounted the roof of the coach, nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +half way, but it was so warm that I went within. The road +very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the land +poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; +several small factories on the way. Pawtucket an active +pleasant town. Arrived in Providence at twelve. Went in +the coach to the steamboat, returned to Franklin Hotel; set +off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after dinner; +learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in +town; could not meet with him. William lives about five +miles off, and I should have gone to see him but it was so +excessively hot that I durst not venture. Bought a pair of +cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on immediately; +had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my +feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay +comfortably on the sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups +of tea and two glasses of milk with a quantity of huckleberries. +Some interesting Jacksonian discussion introduced +by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a pleasant +walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest +day they have had; walked along the river, a great number +of boys bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered +with shingles. Found a steamboat leaves every morning +for Newport, swallowed another glass of milk and went to +bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up +to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked +into a new chapel building for the Academy. Breakfast at +half past seven: on further enquiry for William Cunliffe, +a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if +I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw +a curious fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, +the inside lined with treacle then suddenly pressed together. +Got out of the wagon and walked about a mile, found +William and his son George; I was known by the latter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> +but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took +some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery +good, about 100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and +bathed, most delightfully warm; then dined on salt beef; +took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and +blackberries. Got into William's chariot and drove to his +daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but +was sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter +very kindly enquired after my mother; they pressed me to +stop for tea, but we drove on and just got into Providence +before dark. Could not feel easy to leave without seeing +Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with me. +Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at +7 on the Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and +much lustier; seems very well off and happy with his family. +Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig +(to go to visit Joseph); set off ¼ before seven, arrived soon +after 10, above 18 miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking +mill. I was quite unknown to G.'s wife and sister, but they +were very glad to see me; and spoke much of my father. +Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not +know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the +mill which I fear is not doing much good; it is leased, +and ⅔rds of the machinery is George's; it is not filled with +looms and is short of water; also there is the expense of a +manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet +Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his +money out to interest and with two houses at Providence +he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. +Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles +off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, +married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of +girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +well furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this +caused us to be later than we intended. Was glad to learn +that his mother was still living though she had lately had +another stroke. Told that John and Ann the two oldest +had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased +to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven +in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, +but the horse was a very good one and arrived safe. Found +George's father had been waiting some time, paid 3½ dollars. +Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife not well, and +out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not doing +well. Saw a snake crossing the road.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time +in dressing at Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. +Taken in a coach to the steamboat. Charged 25 cents for +about 100 yards. The weather cleared up and I had a +pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five +miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the +Boston and New York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, +did not like the old gruff fellow at the hotel, he could not +let me have a room but only a bed with five others in the +room; this I refused, and was told of another with three +beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to +take this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. +At length one was pointed out, on coming out I enquired +the name of the preacher. A stranger from North Carolina; +asked if any other Unitarian place of worship; he said this +was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was Unitarian +preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and +heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This +proved Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown +into a very small room with five beds. This I refused and +was then shown the other with three. I asked if there was +any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and found<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> +it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make +amends for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met +with a gentleman I had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk +with him. After dinner we went to hear a Presbyterian +who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation +numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual +there was a large proportion of females. Then walked about +a mile to a nice little bay where some boys were bathing; +I also could not resist, notwithstanding the sharks; the waves +were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant bathe. +After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, +but with 10 women to one man; should have expected +their sweethearts would have been numerous. A young +man preached, but not with much ability.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; +all the three beds were occupied, and mine was not only +small, but resting upon four sticks, and was so built that +my head could touch the sloping ceiling from one part. +A delightful morning; no letter at the Post Office. Three +spitting boxes in the bar 16″ × 24″. Set off to visit Dr. +Channing<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to +drive up to the house and greatly disappointed to find the +Doctor leaving home by the same stage. I had only just +time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and shake hands +with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into +the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to +be Mrs. Channing and sat some time. Then took a walk +into the adjoining wood; met with a stout good-looking +youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and was +told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had +gone with his father; expected them to stay a fortnight.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; +learned that the Dr. was generally in better health, that he +had purposed preaching every other Sunday at Portsmouth, +but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen +noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six +hours daily at his studies and often a good deal tired. Paid +to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. Left Newport at half past two, +fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so that they had to keep +sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took coffee +and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some +time on deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to +bed. A gentleman told me of a decent berth at the extreme +stern and I soon took possession. In some parts the sea was +smooth, then boiling, also large waves.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.</h3> + +<p>Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found +all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I +had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt +to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other +things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles +from New York; after some time I went down and found +my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were +passing Hell Gate<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>, a very narrow and rocky passage. Some +good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the +city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf +about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; +in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, +I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. +Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We +walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; +he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an +auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the +Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was +charged 3<i>d.</i> T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had +purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as +he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found +a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the basement +storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called +for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of +the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. +Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder +and some rain. Mrs. D. much as when in England, their +little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The +horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many +places. Passed a large swamp, and here first met with that +troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very +large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with +much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off +to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large +in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could +hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the +breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain +in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented +me from going on my journey. At half past two music +announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the +gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room +being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of +wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, +and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After +dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking +over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded +by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see +them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on +the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone +with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +and died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. +Our room No. 155.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still +more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly +vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several +farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible +insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a +little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived +at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did +not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 +for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 +dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; +about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with +J. D. through the register office where an account is kept +of all the titles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner +in one of the stages, the usual charge 6<i>d.</i> but a quantity +of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of +the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience +from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito +bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's +horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a +cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked +across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the +ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an +endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. +The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; +on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they +stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, +though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. +After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set +off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant drive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +and beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather +muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so +on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and +others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then +drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.</p> + +<p>Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very +fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for +the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle +to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly +to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, +there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; +still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose ¼ before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; +the wagon not coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; +the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just +in time. Got on board the <i>North America</i>, found many +hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents +just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; +an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; +a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting +out and taking in passengers: the boat is lowered, they take +a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in +towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is +attached to the end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide +and gives great power, and the helm is always placed in the +fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish (sturgeons) jump +a yard out of the water.</p> + +<p>A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> half +past three; got some excellent cider and bread and butter. +Set off to the mountain ¼ past 4; a chaise near being upset. +Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 miles; then a turnpike gate, and +arrived at the summit at ¼ past 8; having been in four hours<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +in one part alternately hot and in another piercingly cold. +A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; very +cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In +the middle of the night in consequence of the earache and +not sleeping, went to the top of the house, and had a sublime +view; we appeared to be in the midst of pine trees; the +road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with fields +and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake +glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the +other side mountains with pines covered to the summit. +During the day I had a delightful walk with a very intelligent +Frenchman from Washington, to the falls, which are +stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to project +more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum +is hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to +the upper part of the mountain above the hotel, and then +had decidedly the most magnificent view I ever saw in my +life; besides these wonderful prospects there is a constant +delightful breeze, so that if I had time and friends I could +pass a week very well.</p> + +<p>I consented to defer going till four, as only another person +was going and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and +felt cold like our English summers, and it was very well +we got the views this morning, as soon after twelve the rain +came on, which determined me to take the stage. Paid +3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, ½ a dollar for tea and bed. +Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had +some pleasant chat with the people, more particularly an +Englishman who had been several years in France. Met +again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; heavy rain.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH.</h3> + +<p>Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> +in the stage; by slipping across got a good place; left at half +past two. At five at Cairo, next stage. Ascending the +mountain I got up with the driver; fair, and a very extensive +view up the valley; several houses on the table part of the +mountain.</p> + +<p>Got to Wareham ¼ before 9. Washed and shaved by +borrowed tackle. A delightful drive down the mountain; +many turns in the road diversifying the view; many pines +dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four miles rough +road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 +miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the +turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly +sufficiently to leave head room. Not much regularity in +conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of the roads. +Further delay caused by not always dining at the same +place. At Bloomville at ¼ past 4; the last seven miles the +valley has been widening. Arrived at Delhi ¼ before 6. +Took my place on to Green; paid 2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately +passed over a considerable mountain; a very rough +road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of +bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took +my seat on the top, but was told by the driver that he had +another going with him, but I did not yield, and he put a +negro to drive both me and the horses, but it did not do. +I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the Americans +that I made no distinction.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge +made to wait nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two +men, so that the stage was considered quite full. After +breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents for Binghampton on +my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the driver. +Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions +amongst themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and +immoral, especially the Irish; arrived at half past eleven.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +Paid a dollar to Montrose and set off at once; the morning +and scenery delightful, and the company made me not think +of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping +almost at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle +from Binghampton a clumsy concern, but as there was only +a boy besides myself I had control over it, as if it were my +own though carrying the mail. I walked up the steepest +parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook +of some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair +travelling considering the mountainous paths we had come +over. Find Pike 20 miles off and no stage till the day after +to-morrow, so that I might as well have remained at Binghampton +another day, but unless there be something +interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the +wing bringing me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half +past eight, in hopes of getting up the rest I had lost the two +and may be the three last nights. Put away the wool from +my sore.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for +getting me on to Pike; resolved to go immediately in some +way. Informed of a person going 13 miles on the road. +At ten he came and a very sensible man I found him; said +the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals improperly, +and therefore the charter had been refused; this +more than the removal of the deposits had injured the +credit and business of the country; admitted that there was +too much paper money but thought it should have been +lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been called to +account. The President had no right to renew the deposits +without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; +the Representatives support him on account of popularity. +A most interesting account of his father who had lived 50 +years in one house and unwilling to sleep from home. Had +15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 miles Hitchcock's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on with +me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I +stepped out to enquire at a house on the road side for +Noah Makinson. "He lives here," I was told. Immediately +Noah appeared looking much thinner and older; did not +know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her mother; +in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; +on entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know +me, and then cried out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; +she suffered from a difficulty of breathing but soon was +better, and we chatted away the evening. A sheep was killed.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST.</h3> + +<p>Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering +the hurry and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and +weak she has much of her old features, not so deaf as I +expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An American +breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like +crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large +but comfortable; a very large new barn with shippen, stable +and granary and a good stock of hay. Had agreed for the +same with a neighbour on the following terms, to make +the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated +on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres +30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water +near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and +poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, +bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat +cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; +nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. +Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into +the trees; a chip placed below to guide the sap into a tub; +this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning +of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are +hung over by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is +boiled down into sugar, a supply for the year. They make<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +their own candles and soap, the latter from the wood ashes. +Went to see many people who appear very comfortably +settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go +with us.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND.</h3> + +<p>John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a +nice spirited girl employed in tailoring and has seen a good +deal of society. Mary a most cheerful and pleasing young +woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a carpenter +and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good +for her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's +business; Hannah rather lusty, does a good deal in the house +and also assists Ann; Martha the youngest, her spine +injured in her youth, a very sly little person and says very +droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old +friends in England; related some grievances of the family +not treating him with respect, particularly his two sons. +The daughters too fond of visiting and dressing. This +evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal called a woodchuck +somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good +food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her +husband came about eight and returned about half past +ten. Besides woodchucks they eat the black and grey +squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; both are +killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently +catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the +family, the best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They +have two waggons.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD.</h3> + +<p>The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being +sawn to be burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other +sorts brought home for fires; went out to gather blackberries; +all the neighbours very sociable and kind, particularly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like stealing is +known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice +was first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of +breathing, but was better; at the end of April had a sort of +fit that caused her to be insensible for some time; in June +after severe coughing she commenced spitting blood that +continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the heart, +greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a +good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is +often running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. +The battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH.</h3> + +<p>Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old +folks set off to the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, +found a great many other horses and waggons, also one or +two better looking carriages or as we should say phaetons; +there is no shed as in some places so that in winter or wet +weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister +Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the +sermon; very orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists +as relying upon the mercy of God and forgetting His justice. +The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. +After service notice was given of the Lord's Supper, and +those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to make +room for the communicants; after the bread was broken +it was handed to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer +was delivered, the same with the wine. An urgent request +that they would not bring the service into disgrace by any +immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no +service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had +tea, pies, cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards +and a walk through the orchard; not much fruit in +consequence of snow and ice on the 15th of May. On getting +back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we chatted +till near ten. Alice retired earlier.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH.</h3> + +<p>After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode +on the back of the waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one +of the stores filled as usual with a great quantity of articles. +Walked back with Ann who said a good deal about her +father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, +but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, +as it might be possible that a time would come when such +conduct would prove the most satisfactory. Ann said her +mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see them get on +and wished them to have a little company; was told that +there were very few round about but what were more or less +in their debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who +has had 300 dollars of Mary's, and now had 50 belonging +to Ann for which they got interest; Ann the prettiest, Mary +pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good tempered, +Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed +but cannot get on with his father; this the case with one +brother John but he has left home. Being the last night +we had a family chat.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH.</h3> + +<p>In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family +seemed in sorrow at the thought of my going; continually +finding something to send; opened my portmanteau two or +three times. Half past eleven brought the stage and I was +forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly +Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see +each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to +them "God bless you" and then hurried out of the house. +Mary came on part of the way. Got to Orrell ¼ past 1 to +await the mail from Oswego; proceeded in 20 minutes; +arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very +disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87½ cents. Met with +Mr. Overton an English gentleman who said he would call +upon me. He did so, took me to his house, gave me wine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey a hearer +of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. +Paid fare to Berwick 3½ dollars, and 31 cents for tea and +bed. Very glad to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay +and his family. All along the locusts had been destroyed.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH.</h3> + +<p>Left Towanda ¼ before six, a misty morning; the road +lined with walnut and oak trees and the wild vine; only +myself in the stage. Enquired if no mistakes in the charge +for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. Crossed over +the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; +one part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and +over old trees and all this before breakfast. Arrived at +Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man +or beast since setting out, luckily I got a draught of milk; +the passengers three young people who had been at a wedding. +Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all +for 25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, +one of the horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect +from the summit on account of the trees. A Northumbrian +living at the top said America was the place for a poor +man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had +failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the +mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor +horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the +end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being +much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus +our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very +dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at ½ past 12, got +coffee 25 cents; passage 1¾ dollars.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH.</h3> + +<p>A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, +free from dust. Got to Northumberland before 10. Large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +frogs at one part in the canal. Called on Mr. Kay, he had +had an illness which prostrated him much and been unable +to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat +with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are +smart girls, one about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. +Dined with them in a very pleasant family way, roasted +mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave me a note to +Dr. Priestley's<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> grandson at the Bank, and desired me to +ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice +people, the second daughter very pleasing and difficult to +leave, perhaps would have been impossible in a short time. +Mr. Priestley joined us.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH.</h3> + +<p>Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for +bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37½ cents, and 2½ dollars +to Pottsville. Walked with Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's +grave and also to the house where he died; a beautiful +willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. +Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13½ +miles. A most delightful morning.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH.</h3> + +<p>Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be +an English Catholic priest, very intelligent and pleasant. +Soon got on the railway, a pleasant ride through the forest, +got a glass of milk; breakfasted at Tuscarora, 25 cents. +Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately been +erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a +narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit +where an immense mass of coal is worked like an open +stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk +and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon +and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag +upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mules<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +also ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended +in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically +situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging +the town. Left my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh +Gap ¼ past 2, an interesting drive, changing sides with +the canal and river. One of the old greys like that yesterday, +made a few false steps. We now left the canal and river; +a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal +of Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton +¼ past seven. Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton +and that the fare to Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have +agreed to go to Philadelphia. Paid for supper and bed 50 +cents. Got to bed at 8.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST.</h3> + +<p>Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a +bridge of wood suspended by iron chains, took a seat with +the driver; a little drizzling rain; the button trees<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> again; +apples more plentiful; the drive beautiful along the river +(Delaware), high hills on each side; the woods a little tinted; +some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had coffee +and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better +cleared and the houses more substantially built. Passed a +funeral of a woman who burned herself to death yesterday +by smoking. A long range of stabling shut up, and the hotel +changed into a private house. The driver said these canals +and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most +beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches +hanging down 5 or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather +trotting course; this is generally run by drawing a light +high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the White Swan Hotel, +Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a good +inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing +and changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know +about worship in the evening; went and heard a most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 and 2 verse, +"Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do +well but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ +the most influential; mentioned the perplexity attending +the belief in His two natures.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST.</h3> + +<p>Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy +rain; how extremely fortunate that I have completed my +tour in such brilliant weather, not having had occasion for +an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed an old +ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. +gone to N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. +Kindly invited to stop with Mr. H. during my stay at +Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found him in a +large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not +seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange +and read the English papers, after dinner went and sat +three hours with Mr. Scholfield; found him less altered than +most of my old acquaintances, he lives with his daughter +who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and carries +on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man +greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; +well acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. +Had tea with the Masons, and had a good deal of talk +about old matters in England. Servetus, a very respectable +young man carrying on an extensive blacking trade; the +sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. +Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking +old but cheerful.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND.</h3> + +<p>Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to +send to N. M. Then called again upon Ridings; after +dinner walked to the wharf and saw a steamer going to N.Y. +Observed a good many persons fishing without much success;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. +Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's +marriage, and Mr. Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then +strolled past the Mansion House into Walnut Street and +Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a younger +son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis +Taylor on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. +Rollanson; the younger brother gone to Louisville. Had +some nice peaches and melon at supper. Invited to dinner +to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the +streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps +appear remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a +person who has ten thousand peach trees in one orchard, +and 4 such orchards.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of +J. Haslam's. Then called upon the father who is become +very gray; the son also is turning gray; he was settled many +years at a college at Charleston advantageously, but was +obliged to give up on account of health; he has now a small +school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his +mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his +father a companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield +called this morning to say that he expected Mr. John Wood +at his house to meet me. Selected some more books for +N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and his +daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another +son of Dr. Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner +walked to a private museum; a good collection of birds, +shells, etc., also some fine works on natural history with +beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection of specimens +of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding +on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling +a bridle. Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took +tea at Mr. Scholfield's but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +off to an election meeting and heard some good speaking; +a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An attempt +to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, +but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, +Mason, J. Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH.</h3> + +<p>Walked through the market though not market day, a +large supply of everything, the butchers in clean shirts and +some with smart collars; vegetables of every form and colour, +at least ten cart loads of melons six to twenty four inches +long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss Robson, talked +about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther +Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told +young Frank Taylor he would soon make his fortune +and then come and spend it in England. On mentioning my +ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a mysterious +business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with +sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. +over and he would show him 10,000 different insects every +year. Called again upon the Haslams and found myself +invited to spend the evening at Mr. Vaughan's. Walked +through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and also +that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked +whether tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with +the Haslams. Called again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had +not returned from N.Y. Urged very much to write on my +arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's foundry, that +her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in +Canada; and had children.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH.</h3> + +<p>Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; +found Mr. V. busy writing, spent upwards of an hour +most delightfully with Mr. V. and his old acquaintance +Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed +to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +trying to find out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's +grave; by means of a chair I scrambled up the wall and +read as follows:</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td class="td1">Benjamin and</td><td class="td4" rowspan="2"><span class="curly">}</span></td><td class="td4" rowspan="2">Franklin.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="td1">Deborah</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., +presented ten dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel +with several pamphlets. He and his son-in-law Patten, and +young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. Old Mr. V. +met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary +to tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed +the more difficulty in getting away. Left at 10½, got to Trenton +about two, rained most of the way. Finding no stage to +Laurenceville engaged a dearborn<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> or covered gig for another +¼ dollar. Learned on my way that John was gone from home. +Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young Rollanson +nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn +farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons +most of the afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat +and to bed at half past nine. Slept with young Rollanson.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton +to market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had +some conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then +purchased a little gingerbread and two pair neck laces ¾ +dollars. Drove back another way, part of the road through +the forest. Ate some more most delicious melons, set off to +Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers' monthly +publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible +pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After +dinner sat under the shade of the trees near the house chatting +about home, then walked into the cornfields. Some +corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears 12 to 16 inches, then +through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. +Mr. B. plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing +it to the ground. The quantity, size, and quality truly +surprising; more like a dream than a reality. Then went +to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two feet +long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick +and at length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled +itself up for a spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found +in its belly undigested and yet it was in pursuit of another. +Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and daughter came to spend the +evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a Puritan, said +a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. +gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's +own Book."</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with +tips of Indian arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast +Mr. B. and I walked out together, visited the family +graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, +about 50 years of age, and younger branches of the family. +Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to +Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable +audience rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing +chiefly managed by one person in the Walmsley tone; as +in all other places not much joined in by the congregation; +the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the sermon +very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six +verses, Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, +and worse than English Calvinism, Redemption +by Christ deferred till next Sunday when the Sacrament +will be delivered; notice of two new members having been +examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a +man about 30 years old, gives notice of a giving day when +all kinds of presents are made. Tea, etc., prepared by the +young folks, and the young ladies serve it out; only one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose daughter +is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected +person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great +wish to see a humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often +about some flowers near the pump; just coming to the +house I observed one not much larger than a large bee, +going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged +in writing letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a +great desire to assist his brother, said £100 for two or three +years would enable him to do so; having such favourable +accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised to +send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, +ate some peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but +he thankfully declined. Agreed to meet the younger T. at +the steamboat at six the following morning. Walked to +F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from C. D. +All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return +by the <i>Hibernia</i> on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly +with the D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged +to stop suckling her little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for +100 dollars upon all property.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.</h3> + +<p>This morning rose soon after five with the intention of +going to Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to +get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. +Engaged all forenoon in reading the "Bolton Chronicle," +July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. Walked into +the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville +another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1½ dollars. +Called upon Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, +a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and +stockings. Found R. Crook going by the <i>Hibernia</i>; walked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth in the +<i>Hibernia</i> for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not +so experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin +House, roasted turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple +pie and a glass of water for 9<i>d.</i>; then called upon a Mr. +Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; took two glassfuls of +Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for two dollars; +then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor +where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant +man, also Mrs. T. formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to +Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to William R. Crook, like +J. D., converted by his wife; so much for Unitarianism.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he +drove me to the steamer <i>Erie</i>, just in time, as usual both +boats full; a delightful morning, met several steamboats one +towing two boats on each side and one behind. The rocks +on the west side very steep and the strata very perpendicular. +Paid for passage and breakfast 87½ cents, but unfortunately +no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons +leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the +finest in the neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant +and quite cool enough. Got to Poughkeepsie at half-past +eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in a pleasant +house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera +the last two years. After dinner drove through the town +to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and +the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep +at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind +and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking +better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached +to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. +J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. +A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage +three dollars.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery +and copied the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; +after another chat went to the steamer with Hudson; we +were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery particularly the +ingenious management of a sloop. At ¼ before 12 observed +the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in +first but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the <i>Champlain</i>, +sailed 5 minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. +Paid for passage and dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic +part of the Hudson near West Point; one fellow devoured +almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. Whitehead's +family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats +on the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the +opposite is too rocky and precipitous. Observed a funeral +supposed to be a negro, as all the attendants excepting the +driver of the hearse were people of colour; two of the first +appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; +a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled +mostly with females.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.</h3> + +<p>James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with +Thomas who wished me to speak to his brother lest he should +indulge too freely in drink. Walked through the fruit +market, found it well supplied, then the fish, found many +all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means of a +double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. +The cart suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside +the wheel, and the front of the cart and the other wound +up by a capstan. The grapes in the market of a poor sort: +no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. Called +at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> +who has been worse since he left: thought he had liver +complaint and he considered his lungs to be affected. +Curious screw docks, eight on each side raise the frame on +which the ship is floated. After dinner at the Franklin +House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the +circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls +returned by means of an inclined wooden conductor into +which the balls are put by the person who sets up the pins. +Afterwards walked along a beautiful shady road with +occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful +white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; +along a beautiful road and through the grounds and garden +of Mr. King, where we had a most charming view of New +York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at either +hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, +and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very +full; met Webster, he had seen all our passengers but +Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton was about returning by +Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at Toronto.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.</h3> + +<p>Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children +living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected +by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a +kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" +the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed +to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from +Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his +wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along +the shore. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more +than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a +mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called +at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the +fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. +Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence +of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +through Broadway; near running over several persons; once +between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. +A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with +the children during Mrs. D.'s absence, but was gone home +before we returned.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.</h3> + +<p>Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice +devoting ourselves at all times to God. A very respectable +looking man but short of enunciation. In going met Mr. +Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. B.'s illness; at +noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went to +the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from +Carolina not very interesting, heard the Communion Service +by Mr. W. all extempore; he breaks the bread which is +partly cut, and then distributed by two gentlemen. Both +churches are handsome and as usual very neat and uniform; +good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea +with young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of +grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; +the child about the same age as J. D.'s; a good many callers; +went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent preacher; +the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of +females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon +Abraham Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got +home about eleven. Mr. T. desired me to tell Major Watkins +that if politics drive him out of the country, he would receive +him and make him as comfortable as possible. Scarcely +one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more +than two or three.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.</h3> + +<p>Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 +hours. Curious that I should have been saying a day or +two before, "What a difference if any of us had lost a friend +or relation by the cholera." Called upon Dr. Griscome<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +and found him an amusing gentleman; could not find +Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor +Bradnor who gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade +near the Castle garden; visited the Museum; a large living +serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good collection of stuffed +birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of different cities, +etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte maker +and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black +lent me to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much +like the thought of going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who +cannot be persuaded to leave the house; about a dozen +attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and doctor, silk +gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be +mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin +uncovered and borne to the grave without much order. The +service as the Church of England, excepting omitting the +chapter from Corinthians. Eight carriages besides the +hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. made an +effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy +affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but +did not like them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy +packing up.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; +Mrs. D. at breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with +them now that Mrs. Bliss is gone. Called upon Bradnor, +had great difficulty in buying another copy of "Boy's Letter +Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s warehouse +and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. +Wood, and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with +us in the steamer. Lunched, left us at one. Left New York +at 11. The day truly delightful; only 7 passengers, dined +at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; a shoal of +porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants +two dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> +crew, and also the passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and +the pilot at half past ten. Paid for washing 17 pieces including +two night caps, 85 cents or 2½<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. +On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was +soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy +rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became +sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. +Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would +have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The +Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale +faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming +robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities +of vinegar; at the same time girding herself very tight, +so that she was now so reduced that she could not suppose +that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at Poughkeepsie +confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away +from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest +they should be considered stout.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH.</h3> + +<p>Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so +long for breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed +much; the morning warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little +tea and dry toast with an egg, and found it more disposed +to remain with me. Went on deck and was able to read a +few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches +and three slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. +Dined pretty well upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, +two peaches and three slices of melon. Read some more +B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." +Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours +and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our +sovereign of twenty shillings.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span></p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably +with pleasant dreams, is this occasioned by an empty +stomach? Found we had made little way during the night; +said to the second mate that we had got on very quickly, +but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had +been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything +is managed much silenter than with the <i>Britannia</i>; a calm +all day, the evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. +Finished reading Bryant's "Poems," some very +good and highly descriptive. Had some conversation with +several Irish women about returning home, afterwards +insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is +discovered best by a good time piece.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH.</h3> + +<p>Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when +the stomach was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, +most of them against him without knowing much about +him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, going 6 to +8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of +Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. +A good many petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared +out of the mist with a X upon it. Supposed to be either a +French packet, or one to Philadelphia. Another vessel was +seen this morning, another sail seen this evening about 5½. +Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a +good lunch.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST.</h3> + +<p>Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. +Found we had been making about 5 knots an hour; three +ships in sight; read before breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons +"On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two sermons from +Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of +the steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +sensibly, but he was laughed at by some graceless +Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. Hopkins proposed to address +the passengers. After reading about the talents he proceeded +to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. Paine, he +said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors +had mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord +Clarendon: the Old Testament was much older and was so +called at the time the New Testament was published; the +difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of printing, if +the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it and +understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared +with a library even extending across the Atlantic, because +the one only treated of this world, the other of that to come. +Read three more of Channing's "Sermons," one fully +proving self interest to be the foundation even of our best +actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. +About ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; +a nice breeze which we enjoyed much, after the calm day; +more surprising considering the equinox.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND.</h3> + +<p>Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. +R. C. not a very minute observer. He had never seen +the phosphorus light in the sea till last night, though more +than fifty days in going out. To-day the same gentleman +said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but +admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland +had written home the most glowing account of the scenery. +The thermometer to-day 80 degrees; nearly a dead calm +all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal of Cobbett's +"Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather +sickly, such as I experienced now and then during some +parts of the hot weather.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD.</h3> + +<p>Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +hour, the wind having been favourable since eleven. Finished +reading Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." A turtle +observed; a fair wind and delightful all day; air and water +76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling languid.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed another comfortable night; found we had been +getting on well all night; the air and water this morning 74 +degrees; the wind favourable from 10 o'clock last night; +read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American Constitution"; +also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the +two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions +a young gentleman from Boston about to marry one of +Mr. Woolley's daughters. Finished the evening by looking +at the "Treatise on Singing."</p> + +<div class="bk3"><p class="center">The shortest passage to Liverpool<br /> +15 days 16 hours.<br /> +The shortest passage to New York<br /> +17 days.</p> +<p class="td2"><span style="margin-right: 2.5em;">James L. Wilson,</span><br /> +<i>Hibernia.</i></p></div> + +<h3>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage +and the last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the +wind rather less. About noon a sprinkling of rain which +increased and the wind diminished. In the evening fair +and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America," and +still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. +calling Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit +hardly as a military character, violating every treaty, the +English always right; when told of B. attending his soldiers +ill of the plague, said others might and probably would +have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if +such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by +crying out Church and King, when told that W. Scott only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +pointed out two or three errors he said he was not a proper +Tory; may Toryism ever have such a defender! In the +morning he had been decrying the commercial character +of the French.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH.</h3> + +<p>Found the wind improved, more particularly since five +o'clock. At seven 8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to +the west. Water 71 and air 64 degrees; still in part of the +Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom extends so +far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened +and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the +wind. At three passed another ship and brig nearly together; +after dinner a small bird resembling our sparrow though +rather larger and with speckled breast. The nearest point +of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about refusing any +food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained +during the evening.</p> + +<p>Difference of time two hours from New York.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH.</h3> + +<p>Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father +and sister Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become +grey. After breakfast we passed through an immense flock of +gulls, also a little flag attached to a sort of basket, used by the +French fishermen to fasten their lines. All night going about +8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, passed +four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, supposed +to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; +very cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45.</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH.</h3> + +<p>Dreamed a good deal about my father and William +Rothwell, G. Cunliffe and John Bolling, so did not rise till +half past 7. Found we had been going all night about 8 +knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65 degrees.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<p>After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only +about 4 knots; the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the +afternoon; particularly between 6 and 10, making it very +noisy and disagreeable in the state room; had agreed for +Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On getting +money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. +Read three of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of +the Poor" and "Unjust Judges," also the remainder of +Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara."</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also +dreamed of my dear father being considered dead and +going to be buried, and then coming to life again. Found +the wind changed to the south and consequently much +warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last night. +Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and +continued between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading +"The Vicar of Wakefield."</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I +had difficulty in shaving. Found that we had been going +about ten knots since five, and about eight during the night. +After breakfast, we shipped a sea which sprinkled one +whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield." +One of the sails tore down. At one <span class="smcapl">P.M.</span> observed a brig +going westerly; the wind heavy and the canvas gradually +taken in, till we had only a part of two sails of 1st and 2nd +mast; fine waves that broke most beautifully curiously +coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos."</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST.</h3> + +<p>Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, +excepting dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found +the wind still favourable but more north; going about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. Commenced +reading Hamilton's<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> "Men and Manners in America"; +would be very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all +day; sail reduced towards evening in expectation of a gale, +but it went off.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.</h3> + +<p>Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; +dreaming that my father was at Bury attending one of our +religious meetings, wearing one of my ruffled shirts. I found +we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till about five, since +only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly a +week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little +more wind with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another +brig in sight at 2 o'clock. A few porpoises.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD.</h3> + +<p>Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; +this since eleven o'clock. Finished the first volume of the +"Kentuckians" and read a little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." +A fair wind all day, going eleven knots; cold +though the wind is south-west.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH.</h3> + +<p>The wind still favourable and from the south, making us +all night about ten knots. The Captain complains of the +alterations made in this line of packets, since one of the old +captains took a share. The seamen have ten or twelve +dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth +share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven +about pay with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's +97th crossing; only 36 years old; went to sea at fourteen; +married about four years ago a French lady at Bordeaux, +the father American, with the mother French; two children. +A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the +usual exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +of pastime. At dinner one or two Yankees found great fault +with my saying "A good deal of factories," declaring it to +be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland also acquiesced, +thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to numbers; +a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it +might be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. +(See "Johnson's Dic.")</p> + +<h3>SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH.</h3> + +<p>Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that +we have made no way. After all it is best to have the calm +at night, more especially as we approach the coast where +we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a brig going to +the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older attended +by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's +"Sermons." A good deal of conversation about the New +York Banks, assisted by the Yankees who would be ready +to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday at 2 had +made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done +by Captain Wilson.</p> + +<h3>MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence +of the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have +only been going five or six knots during the night. All +forenoon the wind light, not more than 4 knots per hour. +Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing +the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing +through the water and soon pass the ship; others would +come close to the vessel sometimes two abreast, then would +separate and one come with such force that I thought I +could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at Shuffleboard +which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares +with figures making 15 each way.</p> + +<h3>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH.</h3> + +<p>Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +expected, that we had had only light winds and made little +progress through the night. A most delightful day, sunshine +with fair wind. At five, a cry of "Land," we instantly went +on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on the horizon. +Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and +also Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's +"Orations." Soon after seeing the land I began to think of +my late father and wept to think I should see him no more +to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has been +favourable all day and improved still more since noon. +About half past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to +be at Kinsale.</p> + +<h3>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH.</h3> + +<p>Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were +then passing some high land called Saltees<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>. Two vessels +astern, one inward, the other outward bound. Heard the +Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar lighthouse at +eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. Passed +Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail +all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy +aspect, the clouds dark and flying in different directions. +At half past six a lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. +In about fifteen minutes a light was observed which the +Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In ¼ of an hour after +the boat came up and sent off a small boat alongside, when +a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He +brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately +the sail was hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though +the gale had considerably increased; though a clumsy sort +of fellow we all felt easier and no doubt shall sleep better. +On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which is the +number of the <i>Hibernia</i>.</p> + +<h3>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH.</h3> + +<p>Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +and reported the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately +to sleep on the favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale +again increased but I was unconscious. Rose before seven; +found the wind still favourable. Passing Great Orme's +Head; two or three vessels about us, one the <i>Archer</i> that +I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a +boat came up with four men to assist us in landing. They +left Liverpool at twelve and therefore exposed to the gale +and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith says, "One half +the world does not know how the other half lives"; the boat +6½ yards long and only about one foot above the water +abaft. Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to +Prince's Dock a little before two; was nearly an hour in +raising it, and then so long in hauling it into dock that I +did not get ashore till half past three, too late to pass the +Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on +shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook +and Mary Ann Marsden. Went to the Crooked Billet and +engaged a bed; put the letter into the Liverpool Post Office +from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's letter, but +found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at +Mr. Crook's.</p> + +<h3>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH.</h3> + +<p>Changed a 2¾ dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the +Crooked Billet, 3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and +servants; went to Custom House; paid for box of insects +1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage from +packet, they wanted much more, 6<i>d.</i> for calling a car, the +carman asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take +2/6; not allowed to enter the yard therefore paid another +6<i>d.</i> to the porter, leaving me only 2/6 and the fare to +Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I spoke +to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, +but he did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that +I might pay at Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +shyed off, and it seemed as if I must stay till the afternoon's +train. Luckily another gentleman who was quite a stranger, +said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to strangers. The +attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed +the money and paid my friend indeed, and should have +been glad to have asked him to dinner, but he was somewhat +intoxicated. He wrote his name and asked me to call upon +him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton.</p> + +<h3>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH.</h3> + +<p>I found my sister, her husband and little one with my +mother. They had just dined; my father's absence overpowered +me and I could eat little dinner.</p> + +<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> +<h2>LETTERS</h2> + +<h3 class="center">-1-</h3> + +<p class="td2">Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.</p> + +<div class="bk2"><p>From <span class="smcap">Thos. Hulme</span> to <span class="smcap">Pishey Thompson</span>.</p></div> + +<p>My Dear Sir,</p> + +<p>Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. +Robert Heywood, the bearer of this, who is a very respectable +gentleman from our native town of Bolton and who was well +acquainted with our old and much respected friend Dr. Taylor.</p> + +<p>Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of +seeing a portion of this great and good country; which needs +nothing but great men to render it one of the greatest and most +wealthy, "and when the moral, in place of the criminal passions +shall prevail," one of the most happy nations in the world. As our +friend may stop a few days in Washington, I thought he might +spend a few hours pleasantly in your store, and if you can add +anything to his pleasure and happiness by showing him anything +worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him any sort of +useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige your</p> + +<p class="signing">Sincere friend,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Thos. Hulme.</span></p> + +<p>N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor.</p> + +<h3 class="center">-2-</h3> + +<div class="bk2"><p>From Mr. <span class="smcap">Hulme</span> to Mr. <span class="smcap">John Shackford</span>,<br /> +Senate Chamber.</p></div> + +<p class="td2">Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.</p> + +<p>My Dear Sir,</p> + +<p>Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, +Mr. Robert Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our +native town of Bolton, who is on a tour of pleasure to see this +great and good country, and who intends to visit an old countryman +in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be still living there. Have the +goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted with Mr. Clay who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please introduce +him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish +him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses +you may render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere +friend</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Thos. Hulme.</span></p> + +<h3 class="center">-3-</h3> + +<p class="td2">Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834.</p> + +<div class="bk2"><p>To Mr. <span class="smcap">John Hulme</span>.</p></div> + +<p>Dear John,</p> + +<p>The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of +Bolton, in our native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see +this great and good country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. +Canal and thee will give him some idea of the quantity of merchandise +which now passes through it, compared with the merchandise +on the river ten years since. Thee can make him acquainted +with some of the good men in Louisville not forgetting +our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my +best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the +best offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be +well treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable +him to avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and +happiness as possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much +thy truly affectionate father</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Thos. Hulme.</span></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="center">FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Liverpool.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton +the African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Adam Fergusson.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to +prevent the water entering in a storm.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga +Americana).</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> See a description of this phenomena in the <i>Nautical Mag.</i> Oct. 1832.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, +writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Founded in 1831 by Étienne Girard, a native of France, for the +education of orphans.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Richard Crook, a friend.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Since removed as unsafe.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and +Lake Ontario.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High +Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British +North America."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> The boundary between Canada and the United States.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Built in 1823-32.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Built by the French in 1755.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> All three had recently been rebuilt.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Died at Boston 1832.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> <i>Constitution</i>, American ship in war of 1813.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at +Boston from 1803 until his death.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were +removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 +feet high.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Botan. Conocarpus.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> A light four-wheeled carriage.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Two small islands south-west of Wexford.</p></div> +</div> + +<div class="trans1"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b><br /> +Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing +in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular +punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed.</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + +***** This file should be named 24626-h.htm or 24626-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/2/24626/ + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Journey to America in 1834 + +Author: Robert Heywood + +Release Date: February 15, 2008 [EBook #24626] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + + + + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 + + + + + A JOURNEY TO + AMERICA IN 1834 + + + BY + + ROBERT HEYWOOD + OF THE PIKE, BOLTON + + [Device] + + + PRIVATELY PRINTED + 1919 + + + + + One hundred copies printed for + the Editor by J. B. Peace, M.A. + at the University Press + Cambridge. October, 1919. + + + + +ROUTE + +(_The numbers indicate pages in the Journal_) + + + Bolton (1). + + Liverpool _to_ New York, _by packet "Britannia." May 1-June 8_ (1-23). + + New York (23-26). + + New York, _by steamer and stage via Princeton and Trenton to_ + Philadelphia (26-30). + + Philadelphia, _by stage via Frankford and Schuylkill and steamer to_ + Baltimore (30-34). + + Baltimore _to_ Washington (34-36). + + Washington, _by stage via Alexandria and Mount Vernon back to_ + Washington (36-37) + + Washington, _by R. Potomac to Fredericksburg, then stage via Orange + Court, Charlottesville, Brookville, over Blue Ridge Mountains to_ + Staunton. _Jenning's Gap, Charrodale, Warm Springs, Hot Springs, + Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Kamley, Deak, Hawk's Nest, R. Kanawha, + Charleston to_ Guyandotte, _thence by steamer down R. Ohio to_ + Maysville (38-44). + + Maysville, _via Hillsburgh, Paris to_ Lexington (44-45). + + Lexington, _by stage via Frankford to_ Louisville (45-47). + + Louisville, _by steamer up R. Ohio to_ Cincinnati (47-48). + + Cincinnati, _by stage via Reading, Lebanon, Wainville and Springfield + to_ Columbus (48-49). + + Columbus, _by stage via Zanesville, Cambridge to_ Wheeling (49-50). + + Wheeling, _by steamer up R. Ohio to Steubenville, thence by stage via + Paris and Florence to_ Pittsburg (51-52). + + Pittsburg, _by stage via Butler, Meadville and Waterford to_ Erie + (52-53). + + Erie, _by steamer on lake, via Portland, Dunkirk and Silver Creek to_ + Buffalo (53-54). + + Buffalo _to_ Falls of Niagara (54-56). + + Niagara, _by steamer on lake via York, Toronto, Port Hope, Cobourg, + Kingston, Brockville, and Prescot to_ Montreal (56-59). + + Montreal, _by steamer on R. St. Lawrence via Cornwall, and Three Rivers + to_ Quebec (60). + + At Quebec, _Beauport Lake and Montmorency Falls, and back to_ Montreal + (60-62). + + Montreal, _by steamer via La Prairie, St. John's, Plattsburg (on Lake + Champlain) to_ Ticonderoga (62-64). + + Ticonderoga, _via Lake St. George to_ Caldwell (64). + + Caldwell, _by stage via Glen Falls, Saratoga, Ballston and Schenectady + to_ Albany (64-66). + + Albany, _by stage via Stockbridge, Seddon, Beckett, Springfield and + Worcester to_ Boston (66-68). + + Boston, _via Cambridge to Lowell and back to_ Boston (69-70). + + Boston, _by stage via Nahant, Pawtucket and Providence to_ Newport + (70-75). + + Newport, _by steamer to_ New York (75-76). + + New York, _by stage to Rockaway and Jamaica and back to_ New York + (76-78). + + New York, _by stage via Catskill Mountains, Cairo, Hobart, Morrisville, + Bloomville to_ Delhi, _Green, Bainbridge to_ Binghampton, + _Montrose, Pike, Orrell, Towanda, Berwick, Sugar Mountain, + Cherrytown, Columbus, Northumberland, Pottsville, Tuscarora, + Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk, Lehigh Gap, Easton to_ Philadelphia (78-92). + + Philadelphia, _by steamer to Trenton, thence to Laurenceville and_ New + York (92-94). + + New York, _by steamer up R. Hudson via West Point on right bank, by + Poughkeepsie on left bank and back to_ New York (95-99). + + Sailed from New York _to_ Liverpool _in packet "Hibernia," Sept. 16_ + (99). + + Reached Liverpool, _October 9_ (109) _and_ Bolton (110). + + + + +NOTES + +BY ROBERT HEYWOOD + + +The _Britannia_, 125 feet long. Number of persons on board: 27 engaged +on the vessel, including the Captain, two mates, two cooks, two stewards +and a carpenter, with nine passengers, making, with 152 steerage +passengers, a total of 188. + + The Captain, Wm. Sketchley, an experienced seaman having crossed + the Atlantic 132 times--very attentive to the wants of the + steerage. + +List of passengers: + + Mr. Bassnett from Preston, has been a good deal in Canada, also in + the West Indies and Holy Land. + + Mr. Hamilton, a clergyman of the Irish Epis., decrepit easy + Christian. + + Mr. Grindrod, a Methodist preacher going to Kingston as a president + from England, possessing more activity and apparent piety. + + Captain Kenney, an officer on half-pay, had seen a good deal of high + life. + + Mr. Cayley, a good-looking but rather coxcomical young man, he and + his parents had resided at St. Petersburg. + + Mr. Webster, a native of the West Indies and had resided there + several years, his father more than 30 years, now resided at + Cheltenham. + + Mr. Seaton, an American, had crossed the Atlantic several times and + also been in the West Indies. + + Mr. Jackson, of Barnsley, rather deaf, but seemed to have more money + than wit; he and his two brothers carry on an extensive + manufactory of linen and woollen business. + + * * * * * + +The _Hibernia_, 108 feet long. + + The Captain, James L. Wilson, of New York, a jolly sort of fellow + with more navigation than religion. + +List of passengers: + + Mr. Street, formerly of Boston, now New York, dealer in dry goods, + chiefly Manchester where he had resided three years; a pleasant + sensible man, rather touchy. + + Mr. Williams, of New York, a rattling talking fellow, not much + excepting having got some dollars, now setting off to make a tour + through Europe for the benefit of his health; talks of soon + learning French and singing; another John Jones. + + Mr. D. Holzknecht, of Trieste, a good-natured sort of person; his + father bound for his return to Italy. + + Mr. Frankland, of Liverpool, a lively intelligent Quaker; been two + or three times to Italy, partly pleasure and partly business; left + in November and had been to New Orleans and Quebec. + + Mr. Hopkins, of Hartford, Mass., a Professor going to London to + purchase philosophical instruments, and purposed attending + lectures in Paris, but not knowing French I recommended him to + Edinburgh which he seemed to approve. + + + + +DIARY OF A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 + + +THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834. + +Left home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three friends, Mr. Baker, +Mr. John Dean, and Cousin Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince's +Dock[1]; found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thence +we proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the kindest +attention. Received several letters of introduction and valuable +information; recommended me to take dollars; sent a clerk with me to the +money exchangers and also lent me L150. Just then I saw James Turner +pass by; he got me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove down +with 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in my +portmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river and 1/4 before 6 +were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. The steamer left us at +half-past nine P.M. near the floating lights. Charged L18. 18. 0.; went +to tea 1/4 past 8, found nine passengers. Had a good deal of +conversation with one of them, an American, who seemed to be acquainted +with all the packets. Said he supposed the _Britannia_ cost 40,000 +dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another passenger had been +in Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of America; thought I +should have ample time in two months to see the most interesting parts +of America, including Canada. Recommended a covering during the night to +guard against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept in drawers +and stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there being rather scanty +narrow bed clothes. The sea placid so as to allow getting comfortably to +bed. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 2ND. + +Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of cocks, etc. Our live stock +very considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, +ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6-1/2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of +fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papers +had been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steerage +passengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish +people not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below. + +Began reading "A Tour through Canada." Found one of the passengers going +out to assist at a Methodistic Conference in Canada. This forenoon the +Captain told the helmsman to go north about. The wind became favourable. +We left the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or rather +the Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much relish for dinner. +Munched one of mother's cakes and took tea which I liked very much. Had +a pleasant chat in the evening; was informed about the watches which are +reckoned from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, making +what is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to rest about +half past ten. Soon after being in my berth found considerable heaves 6 +or 8 times, then still whilst I counted 20 or 25, then again heaving as +before. This is occasioned by what are called the Swells. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 3RD. + +Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found ourselves within 3 +miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre on our right. Heard the +Captain speak to a vessel going to Liverpool telling them to report us +all well. Breakfasted very well but soon returned upon deck as we +expected soon to lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten which +threw the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of Ireland +till past five when the land and we parted for some weeks. About this +time I became qualmish and went to the stern to see if I could hasten +the catastrophe by putting down my fingers; this did not avail, +therefore I descended to open my store of camomile and black currants; +no sooner was this accomplished than I became sick three or four times. +I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept 3 or 4 hours. The +ship rolled very much and the water I heard splashing by; it seemed +sometimes as if actually going over. Two interesting circumstances +occurred last night. I dreamed that my father was actually alive and in +his better way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel--how +he had come there we did not know. What must be the situation of the +poor steerage passengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set of +children? A very happy circumstance for us rather than the proprietors +is that we have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth to +himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warm +weather. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 4TH. + +Passed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, but found +myself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did not attempt to rise +till twelve, and then unable to shave. Sat sometimes in the sunshine and +sometimes in the small house, unable to walk and fearful of descending. +Took only a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended about +7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when I vomited, then drank +a cup of tea. Last night I dreamed that I actually saw my dear father +alive and cheerful. Several birds resembling sparrows flew about the +ship and seemed as if they had made an error in their reckoning as they +must be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but deeply +sympathise with the steerage passengers so crowded, whilst with every +attention I cannot but think my own situation miserable. + + +MONDAY, MAY 5TH. + +A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt sickly. Managed +to shave without a glass. Sickly all day and unable to take exercise. +Sat in the upper house with a quantity of flannel around my feet; urged +by the Captain to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my great +surprise found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sick +several times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, took two +of the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them warm. Sipped of the +currant tea and felt very comfortable. + +Morning dawn, crowing of cocks, 7-1/2 bell rung round the cabin. 8 +breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. 12 lunch; shins of +beef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, fowls, beef, mutton, pies, +puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, French plums. 7 tea. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 6TH. + +Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without glass, walked on deck, got +breakfast in the upper house with my two clerical friends. Talked about +the miseries of Ireland which they both ascribed to the bad effects of +popery, which Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in any +other part of the world; one great proof was that the evils were worse +in Munster. When I mentioned France, they said infidelity prevailed +there, which I admitted to be the case in the large cities. Dined above +with the two ecclesiastics. A good deal of rain with little wind. Then +blew fair but very cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one of +the pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; commenced +with Watson's "Life[2]," belonging to Mr. Grindrod. Many gulls flying +behind the vessel; a ship in sight northwards. A poor hen escaped from +the pen and remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get her +she flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her throat +cut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long way. Hope to have +got over my sickness. This evening we all appeared below at tea, being +the first time since Saturday morning, the sickness continuing from +Saturday evening to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seaton +play chess. No great skill displayed. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH. + +Passed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. Well enough to +shave by means of a glass. Made an error in reckoning the watch bells. +On deck at half-past six. Found we had not progressed much, the wind +unfavourable. No tides here, but assisted by the current make about two +knots per hour. About ten an improved N.E. wind which continued most of +the day. Cough nearly gone, sickness also, breakfasted pretty well and +dined heartily. I and my two clerical friends ordered two bottles of +champagne. About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up soon +after five, proved the _A----_ from Havannah bound to St. Petersburgh +and had been out 42 days; asked us whence we came and whither bound, +also the longitude. Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage. +The first really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to be +recovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could not be prevailed +on to leave their hammocks; could not speak a word of English. Found the +steerage passengers very respectable poor people from Lancashire, +Lincolnshire, Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, some +with a pretty good property which they found regularly diminishing. A +theological debate with Mr. Hamilton. Read part of Lander's[3] "Travels +in Africa." + + +THURSDAY, MAY 8TH. + +Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without difficulty, but I +forgot to rinse out my mouth with water according to my invariable +practise. Very cold with stiff breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. At +dinner a warm discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended that +agitation could only prevail where there was distress. See the state of +America; what could D. O'Connell do there? About 5 we had what is called +a squall of wind. I went on deck and found the vessel on one side, and +scudding steadily through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying the +ship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51 deg., that I remained a good deal +below, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's[4] "Tour in Canada." The +_Britannia_ 125 feet long. + +Wines, etc., on board furnished by the steward at the following prices: + + Madeira wine per bottle $1.50 + Sherry " " 1.50 + Port " " 1.25 + Claret per bottle 1.25 + Champagne per bottle 2 + Hock or Moselle per bottle 1.50 + Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky } per bottle 1 + Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial } + Porter per bottle 0.37-1/2 + Cider " .25 + Soda Water " .12-1/4 + Saratoga " .25 + + +FRIDAY, MAY 9TH. + +Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested well the +first two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards a good deal of +rolling and pitching of the vessel. The conversation this morning at +breakfast chiefly on the expense of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stout +box coat charged ten guineas which was pronounced very cheap, though I +cannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for L6. 6. 0. Mr. S. +said that 400 dollars was not unusually paid in America. The wind still +from the north and therefore favourable, but still very cold. After +dinner played three games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all. +Learned from one of the seamen that the _Britannia_ is about seven years +old, and is expected to continue as a packet about two years longer. +Squally again towards night with a good deal of heaving. Tried fishing +but not successful. After reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I went +to rest soon after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have a +small hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went into +ribbands. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 10TH. + +Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled tremendously +and between one and two I heard a considerable bump, the vessel lurched +and we shipped a heavy sea, that is the water flowed over us. I +continued in a state of great suspense hearing all sorts of things +tumbling about and my looking glass dashed on to me in my berth; put my +knees against one side and my back to the other to prevent being tumbled +out. For the first time began to regret coming. Often near asleep and +then the vessel so much on one side I could not help fearing it going +over. Not being able to sleep I got up before seven A.M. Found the sea +very greatly agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by the +foam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in pursuit of +anything we might throw away. The ocean has the appearance of hills and +vales and the heaving on one side I found was occasioned by going up the +sides of the hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After reading +Watson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one P.M. Then went on +deck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and that wrong, rain, and rather +sickly. An elderly sailor at the helm said we had a strong gale in the +night; but at this time of year it was not much minded and told me it +was quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteen +dismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the deck. Saw a ship +yesterday. The gale again increased towards evening and I feared a poor +night. A very good pancake half way across the Atlantic. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 11TH. + +Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the assurance of the +impossibility of the ship being blown on one side. Remained awake +several hours and afterwards found it assist to lie on one's back when +the ship is rolling. Whilst on deck the sea suddenly broke over the +side. I escaped by means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson got +a complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a religious +service which was assented to, and our clerical friends promised to +conduct it. At eleven we had the Church of England Service read by Mr. +Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod acting as clerk and also closing the service by +an appropriate prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and praying +for a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the vessel, also +the Captain and family. It was intended to have a sermon preached to the +whole crew in the afternoon, but the weather proved too cold. The +Captain said we had made three degrees of latitude since noon the day +before; would not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day or +two we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship or porpoises to be +seen of all day. + + +MONDAY, MAY 12TH. + +Passed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, but were glad +to find this not the case, the breeze had continued moderately through +the night. Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steerage +passengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises +swimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with +Captain Kenney about the English nobility, etc., and also with Captain +Sketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chiefly +between Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool on +account of Mrs. S. who could not bear the extremes of the American +climate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their +family already gone to America. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 13TH. + +Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times; +and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow +hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes +one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling +foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights[5], those at the stern, were +made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The +Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year; +talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain +Kenney now appeared on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce were +suddenly swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. Cayley. +Towards evening the sky became darker and the storm likely to increase +during the night; this we found the case and about ten we rolled +tremendously; we all seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a few +conundrums, etc. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH. + +Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more sail was hoisted +that steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably till half past seven. +Nobody but I and Mr. Grindrod seemed to have been inconvenienced. A +delightful change, the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sun +shining. A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers about +1-1/2 inch thick and 10 in. diameter, counting thus, and the trenchers +could be slided within the lines;--claret--2 bottles of champagne being +the wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went to lie down, +having had so little sleep. Whilst down a ship passed to the west of us. +Played two games at Chess with the Captain who beat me though I had +quite the game and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, if +successful I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed. +Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to be seen. + + +-+-+-+ + |1|8|6| + +-+-+-+ + |5|3|7| + +-+-+-+ + |9|4|2| + +-+-+-+ + + +THURSDAY, MAY 15TH. + +Had a pleasant night, found little wind and that not favourable; in fact +they tell me we are not nearing N.Y. Finished Watson's "Memoirs" 667 +octavo pages; a good reply to those who have attempted a defence of +slavery from O. and N. Testament. Spent the day very delightfully, being +so warm that we preferred the shade. The wind but light and not fair. +Tried fishing but not successful. + +An old seaman who has been with the _Britannia_ over three years says he +never knew a passage from England to America made in less than 30 days. + +Played another game at chess with Mr. Seaton, had the worst of it, but +called away to dinner. Another play was putting the feet in a swing rope +and trying how far they could go, being then chalked on the deck. + +After tea went on deck, a beautiful starlight night, a good deal of +singing. Jackson had ascended the rigging, was followed by one of the +seamen who tied his legs. The usual penalty followed--a bottle of rum; +he gave them two and the evening passed merrily. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 16TH. + +Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind and that +adverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. Played another game +with Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, still unsuccessful. Had a slight +headache, the atmosphere feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey's +chickens or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed us +some distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown to it by the +Captain. + +The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made to America. At +dinner a warm discussion on the Duke of Newcastle doing "what he liked +with his own"; also the advantage of colonies, also the large military +and naval expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera Cruz +to Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since we sailed. This +evening played another game with the Captain and lost. Went on deck and +heard two songs. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 17TH. + +Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from Liverpool and could +not get back in time for sailing; also that I had had three suits of +clothes sent in. Was sorry to learn that the wind had died away and that +we had only made about 1-1/2 knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a great +distance; about two they came within a mile of us; others were also +observed. Went down and wrote a few lines; the vessel did not come near +enough for us to speak to them. Another ship passed in the afternoon but +more distant. At dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sell +for more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes indeed. In the +evening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said he himself had two horses +which he drove eleven miles an hour for four successive hours; also +spoke of the great mercantile house of Parish & Co., Hamburgh and New +York. One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are 102 in +the fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 18TH. + +Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out my better +clothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. Found the wind had +continued moderately favourable. A long discussion at breakfast +respecting smoking. Mr. Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars for +thirty days together, and did not consider it hurtful when taken +properly into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly as +generally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed us this morning. +At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious service and seats were +brought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read the Church of England service, and +Mr. Grindrod preached a good practical sermon. In the evening the +Captain proposed to have an evening service, which was readily acceded +to by Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. read the evening service and Mr. G. preached +the sermon. In the morning service the prayer for the royal family had +given offence to some of the crew, and therefore on the recommendation +of the Captain, the prayer was altered into all chief magistrates and +governors. + + +MONDAY, MAY 19TH. + +Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear father, who is +now still more in my remembrance, and I have frequently to check the +expectation of seeing him on my return. A truly delightful morning with +an improved breeze. Passed what is called a black fish[6]. Played a game +with Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and favourable breeze +continued. Immediately after dinner I observed a current of yellow water +about the breadth of the ship's length, and about 1/2 or 3/4 mile on +each side, and after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who was +just then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along with +others and he expressed very great surprise, almost seemed desirous to +turn the vessel about to look more closely. He had never seen the like +before, and should have been alarmed had he seen it at the head; could +only explain it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud had +melted in that neighbourhood[7]. Had fiddle and dancing particularly +well done by the steward, cook, and some of the sailors. Played another +game at chess with Mr. B. and beat him. Although we have had a good fair +breeze all day we have not seen a single ship. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 20TH. + +Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy +shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at +a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued +unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. +Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten +and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was +quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured +water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn +of a whale. + +Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed off the table and +broken; also a tumbler and champagne glass. One gull seen yesterday and +two stormy petrels follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us, +partly occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had some +affecting conversation with Mr. G. respecting my late dear father. A +fine evening, the wind changed and almost became a calm. The ship +gradually turned round to get on another tack. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST. + +Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. A good deal of +conversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America it +seems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels +in Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze +refreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. +Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones to +sixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; he +also surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. The +wind continued favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. and +lost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have great +difficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting my late dear +father on my return. + + +THURSDAY, MAY 22ND. + +Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found the wind +slight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, all the sails +squared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. The wind about one, +changed more south. A long sit and chat upon the helm house with Mr. +Grindrod. A very good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not a +vessel all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance. +Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation of meeting +again my dear father. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 23RD. + +Got up before six having not been able to sleep since 2 o'clock, such +noises, pitching and rockings as surely never were heard before. Found +the sea greatly agitated and much foam. I asked one of the seamen if he +did not call this a stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. The +Captain admitted that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all day +and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, +and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we +found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish +to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of +the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits +depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster +complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain +Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. In the morning +the Captain persuaded me to go to rest again and I lay down after +dinner. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 24TH. + +I passed a much better night and got up at half past six; was gratified +to learn from the Mate who is not usually encouraging, that we had been +making way in the night; pointed out a vessel passing us on the east. +The Captain is making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62 +voyages; been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, very +cold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. A day of +business amongst the steerage passengers exchanging provisions. Much +warmer on deck after dinner. Had some conversation in French with one of +the sailors who is a Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatly +pleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of the ship. +Find the seamen are only engaged at New York to Liverpool and back, +their wages paid during that time; this is the same even with the cook. +The Captain every Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all the +cabin passengers. + + +SUNDAY, MAY 25TH. + +Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden squall arose +that tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. On going upon deck the sea +was much agitated, it rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend. +These sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf Stream; +but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not come on earlier; it +continued to blow hard all day. Seated at the stern watching the petrels +and feeding them with bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning and +another in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit out +and enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in the cabin and a +prayer made by Mr. Grindrod. + + +MONDAY, MAY 26TH. + +Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began to roll +about. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which was the cause of the +motion, which continued all forenoon. + +Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to Syria; and also at +looking at some amusing caricatures of Cruickshank's. The wind fair but +very little of it, yesterday a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact we +have only had once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A great +many gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, and few petrels. +Had we gone over the banks we might have had some diversion in fishing, +but the Captain was afraid of encountering the ice. + +In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but generally very +foggy weather and changeable, either calms or storms. This has been a +very unpleasant day, a calm with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, or +even Mother Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal of +champagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish. + + +TUESDAY, MAY 27TH. + +Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship rolled and +pitched more than I expected. When I went upon deck I was agreeably +surprised; a very good wind from the north bearing us on very well. + +The scene diversified by a grampus[8] 8 to 10 feet long, and a flying +fish which is rather larger than a swallow. About ten spoke to a vessel +from Jamaica to London. Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour, +Syria, Egypt, etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dear +father's departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to some +serious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At dinner Mr. Jackson +enquired what was the matter, upon which Mr. G. very kindly explained +the cause. Commenced reading B. H.'s[9] Notes on Chili, Peru, etc., he +is a very pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out about +this time. + + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH. + +Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may lead to a +change of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continued +heavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased, +but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossing +the Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland but +the Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if there was anything +done by the Almighty which he could wish altered it would be the Gulf +Stream; there is not only a current against us, but great uncertainty as +to calms and storms. Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with us +to-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the passengers trying +to put their legs over an American flour cask, and so raise themselves +over it upon their feet. Went upon deck and was much pleased with the +appearance of the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; the +sides of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the ocean +was covered apparently by fire occasioned by the breakers. Passed the +day without seeing either sail or fish. + + +THURSDAY, MAY 29TH. + +Passed another comfortable night, found we had been getting on pretty +well; nearly out of the Stream with the intention of shooting across the +first fair wind. + +The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged nine months. A +stone with two lumps of iron are tied up to sink the child. At six the +bell tolled, the little thing was placed upon a door and when the +Minister, Mr. H. came to that part of committing the body to the deep it +was slid off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten by +fish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon deck, her name +Johnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; the husband I believe in +America. + +Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29th +May, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadiness +but this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday's +debauch. Mr. Seaton says bastardy is not so common in America but +always charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he +never walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system, +either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary. + + +FRIDAY, MAY 30TH. + +Passed another good night though dreaming more of home and the +warehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind and that it had been the +same during the night; continued so all day but the rolling of the ship +on going to breakfast made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; in +fact we pitched and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part of +the day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should consider it +the most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, no fish or anything to +divert the tedium. + +This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. Frequent jelly-like +substances floating on the ocean of various colours formed like a +cockscomb commonly called Portuguese men-of-war. + + +SATURDAY, MAY 31ST. + +Another good night, found the wind favourable but not much of this most +of the night. A warm political discussion; I stated that America and not +Dan O'Connell was the great political agitator. Speaking of the immense +salaries paid in England I said the Government was more in fault in +granting them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain Kenney +said he should like to subscribe to send the radicals out of the +country. I thought it would be better to employ the subscriptions in +getting all the democrats away. A dense mist continued on the surface of +the ocean till eleven, when it suddenly disappeared. A ship discovered +by Mr. Grindrod. + +I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment of my dear +father. Finished the second volume of Hall's "Journal of a Voyage to +Chili, etc." Learned from Captain Kenney that the journey from London to +Moscow by Hamburgh, Luebeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a week for +about L34; that there is no difficulty with regard to passports, but +that you must advertise every district visited in the "St. Petersburgh +Gazette," and that you are leaving there in three weeks; you can then +stop that time but no longer in one place. At dinner we had some +interesting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting future +punishment and the different degrees; the latter I was glad to find was +the creed of Mr. G. between whom and Mr. B. the conversation was carried +on. On going on deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did not +approve of such discussions. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST. + +Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length crossed the Gulf +Stream; sensibly colder. The wind had not been favourable since last +night. A very considerable mist occasioned by the warm water in the +Stream coming in contact with the cold atmosphere--very cold. + +The morning service according to the Church of England read by Mr. H. +but not so many present on account of the cold--again in the evening +with a sermon from Mr. G. from John, 14th chap., 15th verse, "If ye love +me keep my commandments." Captain K. said he did not consider himself a +gambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or L400 a night; once at Paris he +lost a good deal. Since then he had made it a rule not to give checks, +but merely stake what he had with him; when he lost the large sums they +were out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not do for +sea, port for instance; had several bottles changed because not so +clear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold and a contrary wind; all +the crew seemed to be getting out of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he cost +his father L3000 for the 2-3/4 years he was learning the spinning +business; he admitted he had been very gay. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 2ND. + +A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention of going again to +America. Delighted to find the weather milder and the wind favourable; +it continued thus all day; rain came on about three; after dinner there +was thick mist which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours with +the helmsman and others. + +Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and Harrison. Mentioned +Coates with whom they did as much as 10,000 pieces annually. Commenced +reading "The Refugee in America," a work by Mrs. Trollope[10]. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD. + +Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared we might run +foul of some vessel, and after four we had a good deal of rolling. On +getting up I was greatly disappointed to find the wind had been west all +night, and also very cold indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw the +spouting of a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. Several +other fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged in cod fishing off +the banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are now within soundings. + +Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The wind continued hard +and cold; by "hard" is meant that no change can be expected till it dies +naturally away. Another child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and I +engaged in reading together "The Refugee." No fish to be seen. The day +has been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable for the poor +children afflicted with measles. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH. + +Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little progress, the wind +still unfavourable. Another child dead of the measles. To reconcile the +mother to interment in the deep, a coffin was ordered. About one both +children were placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwark +had been taken away. Mr. G. officiated in consequence of Mr. H.'s +indisposition, and on committing them to the deep the coffin did not +sink. A great many passengers ran immediately to the stern whence it was +observed for more than ten minutes, one passenger protesting that he +still saw it, after others had declared that it had sunk; so that what +was intended as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body had sunk +instantly. + +Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being so much warmer +we were all in better spirits. A most glorious sunset this evening. The +cook considered to be very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening with +some of the sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drink +than usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH. + +Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind had continued +favourable all night. + +After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 letters, many of +them double, treble, etc., besides some hundreds of parcels, with a +great many newspapers most of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i.e. half +past eleven, a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail was +immediately taken in--rain and much colder, also much rocking of the +ship; we have to be thankful that it has happened now, rather than in +the night and especially when nearer land. Immediately after dinner one +of the most terrible rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses were +broken this day than on any former one. About two we had quite a thunder +storm with very heavy rain. After dinner we went to the stern and had +the most terrible heave, and such a sea as we had never beheld before +and all this at the end of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms, +tried to fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful. +Yesterday a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went down about +four but the sea continued rolling; in fact it must have blown harder +from some other part to have raised the sea so much. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH. + +Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the ship rolling so +much. Most truly delighted to find that we had had favourable wind since +eleven, and now with this wind from N.E. which is likely to be more +permanent we may fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there came +on a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it became +necessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger sea broke over than +any I had yet seen. About two it lessened and the sail was again +increased. After dinner, about five, the delightful word "Land" was +announced which made us all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deck +and was just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a most +agreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke over the ship +than I had seen before, and now at six we are sailing in smooth water. + +After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings became +saddened by the recollection of never again beholding my dear father, +and these no doubt will be my sensations when I get back to my native +land. Another most glorious sunset, a cloud covering the upper part of +the low coast of Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made it +have the appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautiful +clouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH. + +A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to help us on. At +noon another child died and was interred. Very hot. The Jersey coast +seen this morning. Mr. Seaton, a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/- +worth this voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward--also wine bill 10 +dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides 16 lost at +cards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of the coast. Long Island a +very low sandy shore. Unfavourable breeze till after dinner when all at +once it changed. A beautiful sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, and +one from Ireland filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five men +from a revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an account +of the cases of merchandise and passengers; he appeared a pleasant +sharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamen +sounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came +on board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been +towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, and +brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem the +tide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head and +snuffing the land breeze. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH. + +A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half past +six. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 miles +off the quarantine--got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the _Royal +William_, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe. + +Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we have to anchor to +stem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about two, became delirious. Saw a +steam boat I proposed joining at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed to +think it could not be done without offending the Captain. I ventured to +mention it to him, mentioning Mr. B.'s illness. He said he could have no +objection and would join us. The flag was hoisted, but either he was +previously engaged or refused to assist us. Got into the boat hanging on +the side of our ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us. +As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many porpoises. Got on shore +at Staten Island at seven o'clock; stept across the _Hercules_, an +immense steamer; the land quite strange to my feet, the air quite +fragrant and the grass delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom. +Took tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also turnips, +radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out and saw many fire-flies +and heard all sorts of noises from grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to the +hospital for a doctor to attend Mr. B. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 9TH. + +Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant morning. +Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, had slept only two hours, +but thought this caused by a powerful medicine. On walking or still more +on standing still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship. + +Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built with shingles. + +Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the hospital +washhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large dragon-flies. 95 degrees in +the shade. A couple of oxen drawing a cart. Paid 12-1/2 cents for +washing the clothes, 17 articles. For one day's entertainment at the +Nautilus Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, also a +plate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat worked ahead, +instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple 37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents. +Called upon Francis Hall on account of Mr. Grindrod. + +At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, whether one +attends the meals or not. Set off to call upon Thomas Dean; found him +ill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. just going into the straw. Complained +of business being very bad and likely to be so for the next two months. +Rent of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by taking the +wrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring I was 2-1/2 miles from the +Hotel. On getting in, found the table set out, partook of a little ham, +and went to bed, pretty well tired. T. D. cautioned me against over +exertion. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH. + +Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning of the night. I +also awoke, found myself very warm and feared I had done too much. +However soon fell asleep. Rose soon after six--another brilliant +morning. + +Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. At half past +seven a gong sounded, the same repeated at eight, the latter being the +signal for breakfast. A long table with bread, all sorts of fish, meat, +cakes, strawberries, attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T. +Dean and he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also in +exchanging my dollars which are at par or 4_s._ 6_d._ making 2-3/4 in my +favour. Went to the auction and am told that the greatest part of +British goods are disposed of in this way; when once advertised they +must be sold as people will not lose their time in inspection; all +depends on the scarcity with regard to pieces, therefore requires great +care in watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-water +made palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters in my +portmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of both sexes. All sorts +of meat cooked in all ways; the peas sweetened as in Italy. Dessert +chiefly oranges and strawberries. + +Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall. +Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like +those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge +also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are +sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of +the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning +with some thunder. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH. + +Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to +the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of wood +put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just +in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a +most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large +cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built a +house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and +occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child +being dead. + +Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called +upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to +their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called +upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return. +Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him; +mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful +oranges at 1/2_d._, also a pine for 10_d._ Then called at the American +Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. +Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and +down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold +very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to +put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the +bag. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH. + +Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of +Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton +150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen +who take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon +stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted +away till frost comes. + +Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from +Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick +of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but +for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been +frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was +forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I +engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17 +years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved +to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite +astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. +greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going +to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, +and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike +gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. +Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an +acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and +bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder +by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The +estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by +mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five +horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to +find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to +the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising +at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, +butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, +etc. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH. + +Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set +out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit +them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the +steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on +the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and +view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters. +Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. +After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long +way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who +waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. +not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee +that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with gilt +pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable; +the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table +set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all +in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal +of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had +only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little +tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am +advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead +of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the +flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the +night. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH. + +Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down +street before breakfast. + +The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon +Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me +through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, +also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, +where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and +then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die +and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process +of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of +revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value +exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that +planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down. +Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own +water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, +found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others. +We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both. +Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went +into a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town, +but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome +edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky. + +Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much +coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat +without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that +the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as +light. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH. + +Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best +bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving +away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to +keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two +Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of +steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a +column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr. +Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing +chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. +to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an +interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a +pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where +an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden +bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting +discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening +service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?" + + +MONDAY, JUNE 16TH. + +Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to +see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at +the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time +found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did +not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, +some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on +their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very +savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it. + +Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to +Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my +uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, +but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the +locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to +present to C. D. and Mr. B. + +Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. +Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a +store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to +make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at +his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago +having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling +it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first +sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or +two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied +me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle +having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done +it. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH. + +Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than +five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office +and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh +1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works +immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. +That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., +that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 +months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a +public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown +corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, +was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past +four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather +depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of +my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his +passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his +memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty +dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an +hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him +and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two +women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the +pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in +less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, +attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a +numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH. + +About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of +lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, +and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some +time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a +perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with +redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it +was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the +worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who +did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over +to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. +Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out +together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson +and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne +with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three +daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where +vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, +such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence +we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; +all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for +one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the +Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the +Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent +the evening at Mr. Hulme's. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH. + +Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he +fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school +companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned +by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at +nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone +from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were +removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired +about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with +mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. +Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed +the college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the city +entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two +trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a +biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on +account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very +clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection +of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished +people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, +invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. +Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards +high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. +Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH. + +Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon +after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore. +Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with +Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a +very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible +to stand upon deck. + +After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with +me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a +very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by a +zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who +wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column +of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the +Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. +From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. +Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to +Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned +writing home from Washington and Boston. + +Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and +singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after +ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this +country, being so useful in driving away the flies. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST. + +Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated +and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a +square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours +No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel +more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a +species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, +muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious +working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering +over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two +o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a +very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the +evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an +extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a +little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven +years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on +to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old +country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or +Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. +Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling +very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND. + +Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said +had been very vivid. + +Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a +beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon +Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful +place something like the _nisi prius_ Court at Lancaster. Each member +has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps +enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery +behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies. + +Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no +particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to +gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which +continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set +off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C.[12] nothing minding, and in +fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to +get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the +storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing +the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate +that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made +pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the +galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 23RD. + +Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a +pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away +the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common +to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if +made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning +St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race +of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York, +to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room with +others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and +papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and +on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little +conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which +had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we +left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house +or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six +times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown +into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not +easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked +through the Dome containing several pictures, the _Declaration of +Independence_, _Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis_, and _Washington +giving up his Commission_. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to +Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had +made terrible ravages last year at Lexington. + + +TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH. + +Got up 1/4 before 5. Left Washington at 1/4 before 6. Arrived at +Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across +the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very +well received by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams +of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille +presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then +visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like +an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some +cake and wine. + +Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very +few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to +dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. +Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as +several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against +the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting +debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also +remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon. + +R. C. is considered very fond of show--prefers very tight boots, yet has +four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and +gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who +will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4 +dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing +home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping[14] +getting L5000 and not spending L500. + + +WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH. + +Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a +letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited +the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to +Pishey Thompson[15] who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me +to tea and to bring F. T. + +Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of +Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing +conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room +containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also +several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and +Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still +more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, +with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by +the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at L1000; all these things were left +open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I +consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will +soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we +expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had +only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited +both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and +well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old +Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. +Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the +Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's +where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I +think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend. + + +THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH. + +Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution +necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the +second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 +cents. + +Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general +practice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than one +yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles +opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of +grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by +the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst +at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to +Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two +intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco +and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on +the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The +trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads +paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut +Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, +and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great +uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only +two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses +kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc. + +Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three; +objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, +found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are +slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to +remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them +together; the worst are generally disposed of first. + + +FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH. + +Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road +worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of +ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at +Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge +as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or +two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed +boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a +black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther +on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees +rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering +the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville +at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling +especially when jolting. + +Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner +with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great +quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit. + +Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the +driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite +wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are +built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or +dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay +or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees. + + +SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH. + +Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only +two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed +about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured +man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly +American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through +a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and +left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4 +past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this +town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the +spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part +of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to +resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite +astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on +venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a +German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three +others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us. + +I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to +enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a +terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared +up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to +the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we +should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at +seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though +only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though +not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine. + + +SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH. + +Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The +bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four +but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt +was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept +down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the +degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly +covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these +mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from +Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the +water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an +elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a +family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two +daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in +London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted +reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to +Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The +hill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is the +back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and +westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been +so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees +that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have +been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A +double-bedded room. + + +MONDAY, JUNE 30TH. + +Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. +There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of +the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was +returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. +Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak. + +The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a +curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, +1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear +20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, +those below looking mere shrubs. + +As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, +therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside +the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, got +supper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three. +Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of +the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The +names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had +the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather +mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 1ST. + +Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two +little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; +these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A +beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains +of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on +good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another +young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven +last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is +pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on +both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the +surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would +continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain. + +Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with +passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got +outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted +on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a +pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On +descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on +the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded +the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at +Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered +the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the +lightning and the shaking of the vessel. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND. + +Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be +adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. +Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into +the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of +hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including +breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy +singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and +liberty." + +Arrived at Maysville at half past one. + +Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and +ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly +flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some +cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday +a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. +Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most +delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last +winter but one, 63 feet. + +Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high +and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often +passing up and down this noble river. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 3RD. + +Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till +eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put +down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder +which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, +three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. +It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and +breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses +revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or +ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and +worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came +to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon +juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had +nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and +Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable +regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. +McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten +o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds +in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good +deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The +land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 4TH. + +Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; +rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that +the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He +offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums +announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in +an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks +was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of +his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington +and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a +brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married +and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. +Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement +and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the +latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised +Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; +several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to +enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty. + +Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, +but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A +gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana +cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any +children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, +turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks' +brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or +three hours till the stage left at 12. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 5TH. + +Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took +special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. +The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. +Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more +drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor +and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone +macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg +climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable +breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On +coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge; +changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot +between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt +less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for +some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two +miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn +nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. +Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with +spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again +when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 6TH. + +Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast +with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, +for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected +immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a +very large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, and +boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New +Orleans in five days, 1500 miles. + +Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual +discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes +known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, +the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor +blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, +they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and +children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant +chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles +through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man +had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered +to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from +the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever +heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, +head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous +language would be designated only a good moral sermon. + +Saw Mr. Hulme this evening. + + +MONDAY, JULY 7TH. + +Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not +much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in +the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home. + +Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented +me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on +the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him +to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn +out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and +raisins. Dined about half past one. + +A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly +worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too +speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six +took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my +coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the +chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the +_Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, +beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers +with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with +much thunder. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 8TH. + +Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small +of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given +me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, +dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into +the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_, +another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when +she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. +The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was +enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M. + +1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, +8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid +6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten +miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent +bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a +better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk +for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that +is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by +running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage +to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like +mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost +everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH. + +Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such +roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through +pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small +farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and +muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a +national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have +been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, +so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a +flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of +granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to +be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was +informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the +night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get +out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some +time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got +in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing +or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 10TH. + +Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two +passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville +half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and +poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as +paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag +chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A +large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found +the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some +coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally +the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled +with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too +late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati +at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours +we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others +in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the +road, especially being confined a day or two in some little +uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and +should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we +have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, +covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the +country on both sides of the Ohio. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 11TH. + +Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in +consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a +windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the +position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no +boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little +earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by +disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and +actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without +finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North +American Magazine"; felt in better spirits. + +Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild +beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by +seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had +worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts +his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the +animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary +(only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past +seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky +remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from +conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have +been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had +often seen. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 12TH. + +Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach +quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country +is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the +remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home +by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers +lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter +a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on +his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson +(?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them +make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the +aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post +Office, but again disappointed. + +Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is +one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the +Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley +surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our +English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear +half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed +by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this +by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any +horses' tails docked. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 13TH. + +Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the +first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of +a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; +hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several +large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and +excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in +America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, +a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a +Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so +clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 +dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the +Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile +rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained +with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it +is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath +evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very +splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. +Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 +cents. + + +MONDAY, JULY 14TH. + +Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the +passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel +uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by +being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the +same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep. + +Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I +parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old +intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done +very well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic +afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but +luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm +and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a +glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage +filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked +with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at +half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went +upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a +boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a +trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; +without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be +hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing +intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might +improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but +were objected to as unconstitutional. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 15TH. + +Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than +pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old +Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one +we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon +discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the +steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 +A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be +late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one +of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most +delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on +the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by +Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before +dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the +ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2 +for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which +a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture +was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and +recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M. +a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; +an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a +change in the English Ministry. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH. + +Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time +for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the +boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory +nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his +lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; +found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived +at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; +engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten +nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the +Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense +sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; +returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between +the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous +Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was +blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the +air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the +tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as +well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground +and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 17TH. + +Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid +the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A +favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water +in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my +baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who +came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and +set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the +hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it +proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After +changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the +Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on +trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and +descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed +under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is +narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one +place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must +say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a +tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much +is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit +might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of +the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the +Falls alone by moonlight. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 18TH. + +Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still +more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole +Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the +water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too +dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in +gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at +eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a +bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. +Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, +found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to +Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of +our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East +Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian +and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past +nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops +closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully +occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, +supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's +monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars +for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the +_Great Britain_ to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the +cabin spacious and neat. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 19TH. + +Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on +tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper +containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a +conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent +gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour +in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few +dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to +make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He +thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; +they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel +independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the +control of the parents unless wealthy. + +Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; +got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake +Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher +complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water +considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young +men that are purposing going to Quebec. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 20TH. + +During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got +up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little +qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, +the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on +shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy +instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; +then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. +Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and +the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in +our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, +etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes to +this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old +England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old +Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy +and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty +little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after +nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; +still I shall go on, hoping for the best. + + +MONDAY, JULY 21ST. + +Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English +for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and +two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning +nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. +Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and +island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most +delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one +side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they +are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20] +1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in +the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different +to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at +St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of +them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into +the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water +towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old +female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little +one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic +chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. +Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more +Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my +visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have +been spent delightfully. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 22ND. + +Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear +father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the +mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good +deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so +pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some +ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the +Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side +and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked +to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found +nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just +before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not +going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the +agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, +but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more +passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda +sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to +be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen +all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; +fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD. + +Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage +office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. +Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder! +Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the +wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, +London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 +degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In +addition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_ +so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been +unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the +news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen +at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this +house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these +circumstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a noble +vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, +a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; +she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the +young man. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 24TH. + +Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes +not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; +Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, +also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red +currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different +kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, +will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at +4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with +neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric +collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; +the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before +8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour +so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried +to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, +but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. +The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found +his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's +shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who +had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. +William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case +during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the +cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles +off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital +and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us. + + +FRIDAY, JULY 25TH. + +Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A +thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away +the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a +calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. +Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space +on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his +grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas +engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three +miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. +His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave +the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his +connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most +villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would +fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to +Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and +were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and +there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 +dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at +the Cathedral. + + +SATURDAY, JULY 26TH. + +Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at +six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all +my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; +a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed +with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a +strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked +with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave +stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a +magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous +staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed +over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, +but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed +in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found +two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for +going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at +seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the +latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he +was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons. + + +SUNDAY, JULY 27TH. + +Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and +danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first +time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on +the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as +security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at +half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the +Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of +us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for +two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to +find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to +meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was +getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; +got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of +agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were +all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the +four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. +Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with +four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not +waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved +very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did +not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two +dollars. Arrived after twelve. + + +MONDAY, JULY 28TH. + +Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, +perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very +nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick +cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and +spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores +low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 +dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. +The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the +spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. +The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all +sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked +a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of +port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the +waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without +once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer +came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they +contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with +distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an +avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the +water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to +attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after +luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in +the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let +down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely +stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer +made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: +afterwards had a comfortable bedroom. + + +TUESDAY, JULY 29TH. + +A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, +breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at +Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of +Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two +saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked +with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side +two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and +also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about +two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines +are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; +several islands. + +Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars +he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he +then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about +beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also +whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and +breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine. + + +WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH. + +Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, +a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a +place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on +the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a +little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the +river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very +delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement +being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel +to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150 +to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen +had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and +gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the +"American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a +gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball +at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one +another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156. + + +THURSDAY, JULY 31ST. + +Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors +leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. +Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a +gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the +place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the +carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to +have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage +over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same +on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and +engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut +through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an +interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the +river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. +unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving +mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a +grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the +Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a +magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane +manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST. + +Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down +the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by +another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with +the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of +a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed +rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had +left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his +regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a +good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into +slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at +once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and +tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2 +cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep +land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous +and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better +fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at +Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in +the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. +Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. +Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND. + +Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed +manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past +one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly +painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly +with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty +miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence +there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove +and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with +the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became +cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles +when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and +one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, +not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at +Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk +and bread. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD. + +Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for +Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, +during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His +colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss +of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's +Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; +but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after +kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the +elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. +At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I +went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased +by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 +v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to +the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very +nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, +good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; +well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to +hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH. + +Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and +returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. +Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, +chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the +Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver +and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over +Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is +superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the +commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The +monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another +side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to +the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way +back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon +Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a +magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to +be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden +bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a +fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take +tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to +Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. +Livingstone. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH. + +Rose before six, got cafe au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage +would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting +passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour +in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot +day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a +sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at +Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet +manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced +to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way +connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving +rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same +way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the +Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling +over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied +into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So +extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two +o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all +turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for +breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4 +hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, +the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of +different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not +arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. +Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most +disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this +morning from James Dean. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH. + +Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found +it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was +out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough +to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well +stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British +Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry +dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they +were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, +also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the +prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, +brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; +and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious +lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at +3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a +sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing +between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to +sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off +and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine +(Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a +Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this +interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and +quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. +On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was +disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. +Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the +city. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH. + +Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea +cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted +the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went +within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the +land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small +factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in +Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to +Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after +dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in +town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I +should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst +not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on +immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my +feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the +sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of +milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian +discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a +pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest +day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys +bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found +a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of +milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH. + +Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, +whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building +for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for +William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if +I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious +fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined +with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and +walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by +the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took +some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about +100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully +warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, +eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and +drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was +sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired +after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and +just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave +without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with +me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the +Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very +well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH. + +Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit +Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 +miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to +G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much +of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not +know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear +is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is +George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there +is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet +Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to +interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been +comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a +cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's +eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort +of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well +furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be +later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still +living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann +the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased +to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, +thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very +good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some +time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife +not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not +doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH. + +Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at +Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the +steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up +and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five +miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New +York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff +fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with +five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with +three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take +this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one +was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A +stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of +worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was +Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and +heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved +Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room +with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. +I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and +found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends +for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I +had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to +hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation +numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large +proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay +where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding +the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant +bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with +10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have +been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH. + +Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the +three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon +four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping +ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post +Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" x 24". Set off to visit Dr. +Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the +house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the +same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and +shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into +the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing +and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a +stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and +was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with +his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, +and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in +better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at +Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen +noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his +studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. +Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so +that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took +coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on +deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman +told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took +possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large +waves. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH. + +Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes +quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and +gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and +put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles +from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and +put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very +narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A +fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf +about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to +the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and +got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking +thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; +he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, +afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of +standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two +peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had +purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered +it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black +waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out +in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another +part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. +Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. +Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did +not see the infant. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH. + +Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly +infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large +swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. +Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and +read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to +bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in +consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but +amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes +and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and +prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced +dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places +at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of +fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head +of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After +dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters +at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from +English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past +nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, +overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and +died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. +155. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH. + +Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I +expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings +coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with +these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a +little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York +a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked +into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of +psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in +Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. +through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles +(to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the +usual charge 6_d._ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half +price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great +inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito +bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; +found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls +narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River +to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by +means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The +tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found +Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and +talking all the time. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH. + +Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a +good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played +some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the +island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. +Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, +so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others +gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other +side towards Harlem a fine spacious road. + +Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance +of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm +tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. +Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there +was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still +itching and swelled from the mosquitoes. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH. + +Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not +coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed +on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, +found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just +what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, +the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than +usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is +lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul +in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the +end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and +the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish +(sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water. + +A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three; +got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain +1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 +miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8; +having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another +piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; +very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH. + +Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of +the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the +top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst +of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with +fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake +glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side +mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a +delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to +the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to +project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is +hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of +the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most +magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful +prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time +and friends I could pass a week very well. + +I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going +and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our +English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as +soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the +stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed. +Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant +chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been +several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; +heavy rain. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH. + +Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage; +by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at +Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; +fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the +table part of the mountain. + +Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A +delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying +the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four +miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 +miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, +a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. +Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of +the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. +At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been +widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid +2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a +very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of +bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the +top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but +I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but +it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the +Americans that I made no distinction. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH. + +Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait +nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage +was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents +for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the +driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst +themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the +Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set +off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me +not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost +at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a +clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control +over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the +steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of +some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling +considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles +off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well +have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something +interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing +me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of +getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. +Put away the wool from my sore. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH. + +Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to +Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going +13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found +him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals +improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than +the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the +country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it +should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been +called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits +without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the +Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting +account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling +to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 +miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on +with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out +to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives +here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and +older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her +mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on +entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried +out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty +of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A +sheep was killed. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST. + +Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry +and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old +features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An +American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like +crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a +very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of +hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to +make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the +slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side +of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two +horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists +of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes +resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same +at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the +maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the +sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning +of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over +by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a +supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter +from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably +settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND. + +John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl +employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most +cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a +carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for +her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah +rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha +the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person +and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old +friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating +him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of +visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal +called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good +food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came +about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they +eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; +both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently +catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the +best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD. + +The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be +burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for +fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable +and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like +stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was +first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but +was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be +insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced +spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the +heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a +good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often +running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The +battlements of bridges generally coped with wood. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH. + +Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to +the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other +horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we +should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in +winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister +Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very +orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the +mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, +chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's +Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to +make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed +to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with +the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into +disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no +service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, +cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through +the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th +of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we +chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier. + + +MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH. + +After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the +waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with +a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal +about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, +but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be +possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most +satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see +them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that +there were very few round about but what were more or less in their +debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of +Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann +the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good +tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but +cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but +he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat. + + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH. + +In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow +at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; +opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the +stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, +particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see +each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God +bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the +way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded +in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very +disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an +English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to +his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey +a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid +fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad +to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along +the locusts had been destroyed. + + +WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH. + +Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut +and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if +no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. +Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one +part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and +all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, +without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a +draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a +wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for +25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the +horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on +account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was +the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only +one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the +mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a +shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived +soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been +expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go +over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got +coffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars. + + +THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH. + +A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got +to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal. +Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and +been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat +with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one +about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very +pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave +me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to +ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the +second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have +been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us. + + +FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH. + +Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, +good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with +Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he +died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. +Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A +most delightful morning. + + +SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH. + +Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic +priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a +pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at +Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately +been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path +covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal +is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to +Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and +cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a +connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty +waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically +situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left +my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting +drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys +like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and +river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of +Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven. +Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to +Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. +Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8. + + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST. + +Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood +suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little +drizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the +drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the +woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had +coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared +and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who +burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling +shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said +these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most +beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 +or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is +generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the +White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a +good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and +changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the +evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 +and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well +but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most +influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two +natures. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST. + +Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely +fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not +having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed +an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to +N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with +Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found +him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not +seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read +the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. +Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he +lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and +carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man +greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well +acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the +Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. +Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking +trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. +Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but +cheerful. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND. + +Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. +Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw +a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without +much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. +Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. +Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into +Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a +younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor +on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger +brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. +Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the +streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear +remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten +thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD. + +Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then +called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning +gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston +advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has +now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his +mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a +companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to +say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected +some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and +his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. +Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private +museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works +on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection +of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding +on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. +Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's +but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard +some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An +attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, +but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. +Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH. + +Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of +everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars; +vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons +six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss +Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther +Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank +Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in +England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a +mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with +sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and +he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon +the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. +Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and +also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether +tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called +again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very +much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's +foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in +Canada; and had children. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH. + +Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy +writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his +old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed +to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find +out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair +I scrambled up the wall and read as follows: + + Benjamin and } + Deborah } Franklin. + +Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten +dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He +and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. +Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to +tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more +difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, +rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a +dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way +that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young +Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn +farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the +afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine. +Slept with young Rollanson. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH. + +Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to +market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some +conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little +gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, +part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious +melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers' +monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible +pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat +under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then +walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears +12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins +and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B. +plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The +quantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a +reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two +feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at +length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a +spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested +and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and +daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a +Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. +gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book." + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH. + +Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian +arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out +together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, +Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of +the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to +Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience +rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by +one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined +in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the +sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, +Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse +than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday +when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having +been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 +years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are +made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve +it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose +daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected +person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a +humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the +pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a +large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH. + +Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing +letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist +his brother, said L100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; +having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised +to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some +peaches; offered a loan of L100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. +Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following +morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from +C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by +the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the +D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her +little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH. + +This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to +Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, +and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading +the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. +Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville +another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon +Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, +woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by +the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth +in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so +experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted +turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for +9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; +took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for +two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor +where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. +formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to +William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for +Unitarianism. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH. + +Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the +steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful +morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and +one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very +perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but +unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons +leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the +neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to +Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in +a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the +last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden +about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the +Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. +very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking +better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old +country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all +American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of +the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the +carriage three dollars. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH. + +Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied +the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to +the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery +particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 +observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first +but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5 +minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and +dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; +one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. +Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on +the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky +and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the +attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two +of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; +a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with +females. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH. + +James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who +wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in +drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the +fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means +of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart +suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the +front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the +market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. +Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has +been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he +considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each +side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the +Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the +circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by +means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by +the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful +shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful +white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful +road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most +charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at +either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, +and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met +Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton +was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at +Toronto. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH. + +Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron +Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather +smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of +Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and +agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. +Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a +Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no +guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a +mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately +owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the +Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through +the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. +Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once +between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat +till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. +D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH. + +Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at +all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of +enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. +B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went +to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina +not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all +extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed +by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and +uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with +young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, +also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J. +D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent +preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of +females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham +Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. +desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the +country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. +Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than +two or three. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH. + +Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. +Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a +difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera." +Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not +find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who +gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited +the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good +collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of +different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte +maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me +to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of +going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the +house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and +doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be +mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and +borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of +England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight +carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. +made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy +affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like +them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH. + +Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at +breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss +is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another +copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s +warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, +and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. +Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; +only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; +a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two +dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the +passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. +Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or +2-1/2_d._ each. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH. + +Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up +felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with +it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. +Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did +not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I +would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The +Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. +Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, +who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time +girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she +could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at +Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away +from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be +considered stout. + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH. + +Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for +breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning +warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, +and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able +to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three +slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well +upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices +of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to +Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours +and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of +twenty shillings. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH. + +Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant +dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little +way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very +quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had +been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is +managed much silenter than with the _Britannia_; a calm all day, the +evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading +Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some +conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards +insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best +by a good time piece. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH. + +Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach +was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him +without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, +going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of +Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many +petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X +upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. +Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening +about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a +good lunch. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST. + +Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had been +making about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read before +breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two +sermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of the +steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly, +but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. +Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about the +talents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. +Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had +mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament +was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was +published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of +printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it +and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a +library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated +of this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's +"Sermons," one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even of +our best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. About +ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze which +we enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering the +equinox. + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND. + +Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. not a +very minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the sea +till last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day the +same gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but +admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written home +the most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80 +degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal +of Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather sickly, +such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather. + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD. + +Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the wind +having been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Advice +to Young Men." A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day; +air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling +languid. + + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH. + +Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well all +night; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourable +from 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American +Constitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the +two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a young +gentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters. +Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing." + + The shortest passage to Liverpool + 15 days 16 hours. + The shortest passage to New York + 17 days. + James L. Wilson, + _Hibernia._ + + +THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH. + +Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and the +last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less. +About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished. +In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America," +and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. calling +Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a military +character, violating every treaty, the English always right; when told +of B. attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might and +probably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if +such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying out +Church and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or three +errors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such a +defender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial character +of the French. + + +FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH. + +Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven +8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64 +degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom +extends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened +and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At three +passed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small bird +resembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast. +The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about +refusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained +during the evening. + +Difference of time two hours from New York. + + +SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH. + +Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sister +Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast we +passed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached to +a sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines. +All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, +passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, +supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; very +cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45. + + +SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH. + +Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffe +and John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had been +going all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65 +degrees. + +After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots; +the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularly +between 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the state +room; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On +getting money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read three +of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of the Poor" and "Unjust +Judges," also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara." + + +MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH. + +Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of my +dear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and then +coming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south and +consequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last +night. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continued +between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield." + + +TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH. + +Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficulty +in shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, and +about eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea which +sprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield." +One of the sails tore down. At one P.M. observed a brig going westerly; +the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only a +part of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke most +beautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos." + + +WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST. + +Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, excepting +dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourable +but more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. +Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be +very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced +towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off. + + +THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND. + +Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my +father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one +of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till +about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly +a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind +with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2 +o'clock. A few porpoises. + + +FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD. + +Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleven +o'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read a +little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." A fair wind all day, going eleven +knots; cold though the wind is south-west. + + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH. + +The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night about +ten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line of +packets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have ten +or twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth +share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about pay +with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 years +old; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French lady +at Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children. +A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usual +exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. At +dinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good deal +of factories," declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland +also acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to +numbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it might +be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson's +Dic.") + + +SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH. + +Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made no +way. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially as +we approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a +brig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older +attended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons." +A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by the +Yankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday +at 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done by +Captain Wilson. + + +MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH. + +Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence of +the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or six +knots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4 +knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing +the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through the +water and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vessel +sometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such force +that I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at +Shuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares +with figures making 15 each way. + + +TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH. + +Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected, +that we had had only light winds and made little progress through the +night. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of +"Land," we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on +the horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and also +Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's "Orations." Soon after +seeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think I +should see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has +been favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About half +past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale. + + +WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH. + +Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passing +some high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, the +other outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar +lighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. +Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail +all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, the +clouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six a +lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a +light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In +1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat +alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He +brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was +hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably +increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no +doubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which +is the number of the _Hibernia_. + + +THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH. + +Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reported +the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on the +favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I was +unconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. Passing +Great Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the _Archer_ that +I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came up +with four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve and +therefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith +says, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; the +boat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft. +Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a little +before two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long in +hauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, too +late to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on +shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden. +Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into the +Liverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's +letter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr. +Crook's. + + +FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH. + +Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet, +3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paid +for box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage +from packet, they wanted much more, 6_d._ for calling a car, the carman +asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enter +the yard therefore paid another 6_d._ to the porter, leaving me only 2/6 +and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I +spoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but he +did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay at +Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed as +if I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman who +was quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to +strangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed the +money and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have asked +him to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name and +asked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton. + + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH. + +I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They had +just dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat little +dinner. + + + + +LETTERS + + +-1- + + Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. + + From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON. + +My Dear Sir, + +Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, the +bearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native town +of Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respected +friend Dr. Taylor. + +Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing a +portion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but great +men to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when the +moral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail," one of the most +happy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days in +Washington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in your +store, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness by +showing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him +any sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige +your + + Sincere friend, + THOS. HULME. + +N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor. + + +-2- + + From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD, + Senate Chamber. + + Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. + +My Dear Sir, + +Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. Robert +Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton, +who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and who +intends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be +still living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted +with Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please +introduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish +him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you may +render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend + + THOS. HULME. + + +-3- + + Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834. + + To Mr. JOHN HULME. + +Dear John, + +The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in our +native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good +country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give him +some idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it, +compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee can +make him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville not +forgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my +best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the best +offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be well +treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him to +avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness as +possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy truly +affectionate father + + THOS. HULME. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Liverpool. + +[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister. + +[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton the +African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these. + +[4] Adam Fergusson. + +[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to +prevent the water entering in a storm. + +[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga +Americana). + +[7] See a description of this phenomena in the _Nautical Mag._ Oct. +1832. + +[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous. + +[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels. + +[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, +writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30. + +[11] Founded in 1831 by Etienne Girard, a native of France, for the +education of orphans. + +[12] Richard Crook, a friend. + +[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837. + +[14] William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England. + +[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston. + +[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825. + +[17] Since removed as unsafe. + +[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and Lake +Ontario. + +[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High +Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British +North America." + +[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States. + +[21] Built in 1823-32. + +[22] Built by the French in 1755. + +[23] All three had recently been rebuilt. + +[24] Died at Boston 1832. + +[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775. + +[26] _Constitution_, American ship in war of 1813. + +[27] William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at +Boston from 1803 until his death. + +[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were +removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885. + +[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feet +high. + +[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804. + +[31] Botan. Conocarpus. + +[32] A light four-wheeled carriage. + +[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842. + +[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford. + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing + in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular + punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834 *** + +***** This file should be named 24626.txt or 24626.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/2/24626/ + +Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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