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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/24496-8.txt b/24496-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..03fc669 --- /dev/null +++ b/24496-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1232 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making A Rock Garden + +Author: Henry Sherman Adams + +Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + + + + +Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + + + + THE + HOUSE & GARDEN + MAKING + BOOKS + + +It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which _Making a Rock Garden_ is one, a complete library of +authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities +of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams +will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the +possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more +important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the +titles already issued or planned for early publication are the +following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis +Court_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a +Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making +Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Garden to Bloom This +Year_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making +the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb +Garden_; with others to be announced later. + + +[Illustration: A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a +beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant +there and around the edges of the boulder _Phlox subulata_, sedum, +arabis, etc.] + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + By H. S. ADAMS + + [Decoration] + + NEW YORK + McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY + 1912 + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + MCBRIDE, NAST & CO. + + Published May, 1912 + + + + +CONTENTS + + PAGE + + THE ROCK GARDEN 1 + + THE CHOICE OF A SITE 6 + + THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION 13 + + PLANTING THE GARDEN 24 + + PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN 32 + + THE WALL GARDEN 45 + + WATER AND BOG GARDENS 50 + + + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + + AN OUTCROPPING BOULDER CONVERTED _Frontispiece_ + INTO A ROCK GARDEN + FACING + PAGE + + A FLIGHT OF STEPS THROUGH ROCK WORK 8 + + AN EXAMPLE OF GOOD ROCK GARDENING 16 + + A SMALL BIT OF ROCK WORK WHERE TWO PATHS DIVERGE 26 + + FOAM FLOWER AND ONE OF THE SMALLER FERNS 34 + + THE ROCK GARDEN BUILT ALONG A MAIN CURVING PATH 42 + + A WALL GARDEN PLANTED IN COLONIES 46 + + A FOUNTAIN IN A WALL GARDEN 50 + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + + + +Making a Rock Garden + +THE ROCK GARDEN + + +In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established +institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject +alone form a considerable bibliography. + +On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood +that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home +grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on +large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done +on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by +taking advantage of natural opportunities. But for the most part +America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called +"rockery." + +Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a +rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted +in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of +stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones +filled in with soil. + +A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as +appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or +many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but +always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock +garden's one and only creed is nature. + +Rock gardens are of so many legitimate--in other words, natural--types, +that there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that +commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the +ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The +natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the +timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles +to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the +very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are +now and then incorporated in, them--here a pool, there a brook. The bog, +too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps +only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up +massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature +makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's +Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the +unnumbered examples of this. + +Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock +garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever +been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that +nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and +the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations. + +The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of +picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a +place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that, +if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as +in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may +be made a pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally--and +here is one of the most important things to be learned about the rock +garden--it is the veritable key to the garden situation; there are small +places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it is possible. + + + + +THE CHOICE OF A SITE + + +The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad +truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of +time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your +eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as +if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to +belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in +enjoying the rock gardens of other people. + +As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something +savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture. +Exceptions are when the house is on a rocky site that makes such +planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one +side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in +the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is +better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard +as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a +planting of shrubbery. + +Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn +unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from +the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may +be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a +lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either +is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either side of steps +leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be +considered. + +Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to +the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden +near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the +greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to +dislocate the stones. + +Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is +only a step from one little world into another that is altogether +different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or +through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The +more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden +not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well that all of +it should be comprehended in a single view--no matter whether the area +be large or small. + +[Illustration: Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a +rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as +well as those of the side walls] + +What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing +American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house +the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a +fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a +meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the +driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but +actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In +this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though +bounded on the north--it runs east and west--by the formal garden and on +the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of +these, nor from the house. It is conveniently near all three, yet +distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on +the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the +formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the +bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive +collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden +and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does +not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a +little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call +it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock +garden form; so are hill and crest. + +Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up +from various parts of the place or brought in from the outside. But +many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often +more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now +and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if +all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the +choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be. +Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site +settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it. + +A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be +converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little +judicious planting and the transformation is complete. + +A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible, +without injury to the main scheme, the garden should be brought to the +water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable; +which can be determined when the site is picked out. + + + + +THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION + + +Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter +of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be +planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of +the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to +the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the +circumstances. + +Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All +the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you, +since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of +course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most, +nature--more particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere +there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the +Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock +gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively +few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the +disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of +height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the +planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock +garden scheme. + +Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on +cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the +labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if +possible, an equally good exit--the one invisible from the other. Then +outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation +allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more +pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate +nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to +epitomize it. + +Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand, +perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not +fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman +who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you +want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not +desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size, +is not great. + +Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of +natural stone may be made use of to the best advantage. Artificial +stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are +good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify, +and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A +good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart. +Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is +well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some +rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not +disturbed by the moving. + +[Illustration: Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species +has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular +crevices] + +Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily +obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small +ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as +stonecrops in earth--which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is +always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar. + +If the site is level, the next step is to change all that--first on +paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the +configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the +upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep +enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk. + +Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the +soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they +are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of +the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be +placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size. +It is not essential that the lowest rocks should be slightly buried in +the ground, but that course is preferable. + +When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more +rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not +close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming +it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not +a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and +when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed +down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock. + +This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge +slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope, +though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain +plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds +as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely +arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of +vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure +of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks +used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care +must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches +should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny +rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but +its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in +the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep +penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the +roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden +hollow. + +[Illustration: Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it, +even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small +stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so +that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B] + +At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two +or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is +likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be +avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The +roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous, +though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock +work to the solid filling of earth. The run should slope downward +slightly. + +Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid +on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be +employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called +"pockets." + +These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock +garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief +means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects. +They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and +distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones +when the planting is done if a further separation of species is +desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will +be no standing water. + +[Illustration: Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing +shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C); +bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three +inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried] + +The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be +plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of +summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain +naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of +eight inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones. + +The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in +size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but +it must be old. + + + + +PLANTING THE GARDEN + + +There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the +crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is +to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly +settled. + +The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one. +There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the +work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact +that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in +crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part +way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on +top, and the plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless +it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside +the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill +up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants +of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears +necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher +crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand. + +As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought +out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural +plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the +more difficult rock plants--the alpines, some of the ferns, and those +plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary +garden moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most +desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or +"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those +when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections +of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers, +each corresponding to a species. + +[Illustration: Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock +work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of +straight lines] + +The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not +necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two +seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little +importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a +few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green +the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature +will show you. Plants clustered here and single there is a good +planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge +into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no +stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are +obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example, +calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in +a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one +hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference +to fifty or more kinds. + +Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some +quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere +tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some +have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one +plant of _Saponaria ocymoides_ will spread out over four square feet of +soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to +conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be +used. The same is true of the white rock cress (_Arabis albida_). So, +too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops +would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds +of house leek would be called for. + +Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group, +at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed +behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the +entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants +make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds. +Spreading and trailing plants should be placed a foot or more above the +path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the +path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the +base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate +spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not +tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in +both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space--even +between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and +not as much of an undertaking as it may seem. + +Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after +moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it +is astonishing how adaptive many of them are. + +Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of +eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize +what a mistake you have made. + +Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the +beginning--of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will +always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will +be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less +rearrangement. + +And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be +done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the +loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use +a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth +of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary +garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots +near the top of the soil leaves the plants in no condition to stand the +full force of the summer sun. + +Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp +lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the +fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant +will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch +out for weak spots after very heavy rains. + + + + +PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN + + +So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice +is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden, +advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very +fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand; +a little intelligent thought helps a lot. + +To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies +to the picking out of the rocks--use the material which is close at +hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines +of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always +an endless amount of beautiful and suitable plant life to be had +without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your +immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your +grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for +the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers +not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the +gardens--the hardy gardens--of others, where you can at once choose from +the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too +much care for your use. + +So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned, +their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time, +who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious, +cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most realize, +and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the +bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an +individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden. +Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too +familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly, +can you say in your heart that they are? + +For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (_Polemonium reptans_) +must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection +of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why +should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place +in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for +it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas, +gentians from the Swiss Alps, and _Dryas Drummondi_ from the Canadian +Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of +some of the common things near-by--even the "pale primrose" and the +cowslip. + +[Illustration: Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden. +The foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_) at the top, and one of the +smaller ferns at the bottom] + +From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most +beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering +plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It +goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's +in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be. + +Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new +beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine +(_Chelidonium majus_), strawberry (_Fragaria Virginica_), cranesbill +(_Geranium maculatum_), toadflax (_Linaria vulgaris_), orange hawkweed +(_Hieracium auranticum_), herb Robert (_Geranium Robertianum_), +coltsfoot (_Tussilago Farfara_), Solomon's seal (_Polygonatum +biflorum_), foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_), bloodroot (_Sanguinaria +Canadensis_), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and +random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine, +and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not +allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are +many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are +allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded +altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden +a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out +altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain +plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not +care to see remain forever and a day. + +Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing, +the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but +in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of +individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject +the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (_Linaria alpina_), +just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be +placed on perennials--the plants that, barring accidents, last +indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not +use the bizarre--Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris. +Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double +daffodil looks horribly out of place, while the double white rock cress +(_Arabis albida_) will pass. + +The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the +wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East. +Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly +suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the +best of these for carpets of bloom are _Phlox subulata_, _Phlox +am[oe]na_, _Aubrietia deltoidea_, maiden pink (_Dianthus deltoides_), +blue bugle (_Ajuga Genevensis_), white bugle (_Ajuga reptans_), woolly +chickweed (_Cerastium tomentosum_), creeping thyme (_Thymus serpyllum_), +dwarf speedwell (_Veronica repens_), _Saponaria ocymoides_, alpine mint +(_Calamintha alpina_), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum). +All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other plants that form a +carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include +white rock cress (_Arabis albida_), the permissible double buttercup +(_Ranunculus acris fl. pl._), the also permissible double German +catchfly (_Lychnis viscaria_), another double flower, "fair maids of +France" (_Ranunculus aconitifolius_), Carpathian bellflower (_Campanula +Carpatica_), grass pink (_Dianthus plumarius_), _Iris pumila_, crested +iris (_Iris cristata_), Christmas rose (_Helleborus niger_), _Phlox +divaricata_, _Phlox ovata_, _Phlox repens_, foam flower (_Tiarella +cordifolia_), _Veronica incana_, _Alyssum saxatile_, _Saxifraga +cordifolia_, and various avens (geum). + +Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close--as +it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (_Primula +vulgaris_), cowslip (_P. veris_), oxlip (_P. elatior_), bird's eye (_P. +farinosa_), yellow auricula (_P. auricula_), _P. denticulata_, and _P. +Cortusoides_. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for +the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when +they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types +may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the +species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe +and the little lady tulip (_Tulipa Clusiana_). Crocuses are also best in +type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest +daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but +better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser +clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other +valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, _Scilla Sibirica_, glory-of-the-snow +(_Chionodoxa Luciliæ_), guinea-hen flower (_Fritillaria Meleagris_), +grape hyacinth (_Muscari botryoides_), _Triteleia uniflora_, _Allium +Moly_, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (_Scilla nutans_ and +_campanulata_). + +Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single +specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (_Aconitum autumnale_), +_Yucca filamentosa_, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either +herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the +yellow flag (_Iris pseudacorus_), single columbines, _Anemone Japonica_, +_Hemerocallis flava_, _Sedum spectabile_, _Dielytra spectabile_, +_Dielytra formosa_, Jacob's ladder (_Polemonium Richardsonii_), +fraxinella, _Anthemis tinctoria_, single _Campanula persicifolia_, +_Campanula rapunculoides_, _Campanula glomerata_, globe flower +(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is +proven hardy), and musk mallow (_Malva moschata_). + +Of the lilies, _Lilium Philadelphicum_, _L. elegans_, _L. speciosum_, +and _L. longiflorum_ are all desirable, and they thrive in partial +shade, though in Japan _L. elegans_ will be found standing out from the +rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather +than being placed in it, _L. Canadense_, _L. tigrinum_, and _L. +superbum_ are recommended. + +[Illustration: A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is +desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas] + +The pick of the low shrubs are the charming _Daphne cneorum_, which +flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and +_Azalea am[oe]na_. The latter, however, should be so placed that its +trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and +mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well, and with one trailing +juniper (_Juniperus procumbens_) will provide a great deal of the +refreshing winter green. + +Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them. +Good ones are _R. setigera_, _R. rubiginosa_, _R. Wichuraiana_, all +rampant, and the low _R. blanda_. The roses would better be at or near +the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble +over small plants. + +The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their +soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the +ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are +considered, but none is apt to perish with average care. + +Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time, +money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them take kindly to being +transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the +edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely +beautiful _Gentiana acaulis_ thrives in American rock gardens. But, on +the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the +summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at +the cost of a great amount of professional care. + + + + +THE WALL GARDEN + + +A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden +is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need +not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a +curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it +can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the +gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum. + +The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough +stones--that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it +tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be +tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be +accomplished with small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot +retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the +roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be +made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of +stones and filling in solidly with soil. + +[Illustration: Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing +the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1--_Arabis albida_; +2--_Alyssum saxatile_; 3--House leek (sempervivum); 4--_Viola tricolor_; +5--_Armeria maritima_] + +[Illustration: A wall garden planted in colonies--the better way. If not +too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base] + +Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly +perpendicular, it is better that each layer should recede a bit. +Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so +that the top will be level, or approximately so. + +[Illustration: Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing +crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks] + +In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the +work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press +carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be +mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice +make a pill of the mixture. + +[Illustration: Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil +filling and here and there one on top of it] + +The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not +great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the +house leeks, _Arabis albida_, red valerian (_Centranthus ruber_), +aubrietia, _Alyssum saxatile_, snapdragon, wallflower (_Cheiranthus +Cheiri_), Kenilworth ivy, _Viola tricolor_, _Dianthus plumarius_, and +_Dianthus deltoides_ are all very serviceable. Behind the wall, at the +top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants +can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a +sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall +or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder, +can be created with the perennial pea (_Lathyrus latifolius_). + +If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil +if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless; +here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small +stone should be removed. + +A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily +constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility +where the other is not. + + + + +WATER AND BOG GARDENS + + +Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or +both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They +solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water +lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly +contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may +often be introduced at little expense. + +[Illustration: A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque +break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously] + +In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is +necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by +building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little +below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones +on that. A cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by +imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets. + +[Illustration: To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a +shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water +line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder] + +Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere +notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some +goldfish. They like mosquito larvæ. + +Water lilies and sagittaria--one plant will do if the pool is small--in +the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow +flag, globe flower, and _Lythrum roseum_ are good selections. +Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the +perennial kind (_Myosotis palustris semperflorens_). + +The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden +adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and +moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants +flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf +mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel, +must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement +or puddled clay. + + * * * * * + +[Transcriber's Note: Two oe ligatures in the original book have been +rendered as [oe]. A spelling error in the original has also been +corrected: "Polemonicum" to "Polemonium" (Page 41: "... Jacob's ladder +(_Polemonium Richardsonii_) ...") Italics are rendered as _underscores_.] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + +***** This file should be named 24496-8.txt or 24496-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/4/9/24496/ + +Produced by S. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/24496-8.zip b/24496-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9647678 --- /dev/null +++ b/24496-8.zip diff --git a/24496-h.zip b/24496-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9edaf52 --- /dev/null +++ b/24496-h.zip diff --git a/24496-h/24496-h.htm b/24496-h/24496-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e574985 --- /dev/null +++ b/24496-h/24496-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,1425 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Making a Rock Garden, by H. S. Adams + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-family: sans-serif; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: #585858; + background-color: #ffffff; + } /* page numbers */ + + .tr {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; + text-align: center; border: dashed 1px; + margin: 1em 5% 1em 5%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 80%;} + /* transcriber's note */ + ins.correction {text-decoration:none; /* replace default underline.. */ + border-bottom: thin dotted gray; } /* ..with delicate gray line */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .centerleft {margin-left: 40%; font-size: 180%; } /* for title page */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .toc { list-style-type: none; margin-left: 14%; width: 50%; } /* toc or loi */ + .toc a { border-bottom: 1px dashed; text-decoration: none; color: #336666; } /* dotted links */ + .tocnum { position: absolute; top: auto; right: 25%;} /* right aligned toc page nums */ + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making A Rock Garden + +Author: Henry Sherman Adams + +Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + + + + +Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<h1> + MAKING A<br /> +ROCK GARDEN +</h1> + +<hr style="width: 25%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +<br /><i>THE<br /> +HOUSE & GARDEN<br /> +<span class="u">MAKING</span><br /> +BOOKS</i><br /> +</div> + +<p>It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which <i>Making a Rock Garden</i> is one, a complete library of +authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities +of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams +will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the +possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more +important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the +titles already issued or planned for early publication are the +following: <i>Making a Rose Garden</i>; <i>Making a Lawn</i>; <i>Making a Tennis +Court</i>; <i>Making a Fireplace</i>; <i>Making Paths and Driveways</i>; <i>Making a +Poultry House</i>; <i>Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe</i>; <i>Making +Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats</i>; <i>Making a Garden to Bloom This +Year</i>; <i>Making a Water Garden</i>; <i>Making a Garden of Perennials</i>; <i>Making +the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery</i>; <i>Making a Naturalized Bulb +Garden</i>; with others to be announced later.<br /><br /></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"> +<img src="images/photo_1.jpg" width="700" height="427" alt="A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a +beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant +there and around the edges of the boulder Phlox subulata, sedum, + arabis, etc." title="An Outcropping Boulder Converted into a Rock Garden" /></a> +<span class="caption">A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a +beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant +there and around the edges of the boulder <i>Phlox subulata</i>, sedum, + arabis, etc.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="centerleft">MAKING A<br /> +ROCK GARDEN</p> + +<p class="center"><i>By</i> H. S. ADAMS</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 125px;"> +<img src="images/deco1.png" width="125" height="112" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center"><small>NEW YORK</small><br /> +McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY<br /> +1912</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap"><small>Copyright, 1912, by<br /> +McBRIDE, NAST & CO.</small></span></p> + +<p class="center">Published May, 1912 +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h3> + +<p class="tocnum"><small>PAGE</small></p> + +<ul class="toc"> +<li><br /><br /></li> +<li><a href="#Page_1"><span class="smcap">The Rock Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">1</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_6"><span class="smcap">The Choice of a Site</span> <span class="tocnum">6</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_13"><span class="smcap">The Work of Construction</span> <span class="tocnum">13</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_24"><span class="smcap">Planting the Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">24</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_32"><span class="smcap">Plants for a Rock Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">32</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_45"><span class="smcap">The Wall Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">45</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#Page_50"><span class="smcap">Water and Bog Gardens</span> <span class="tocnum">50</span></a></li> +</ul> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>THE ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + + +<div class="tocnum"><small>FACING</small></div> +<div class="tocnum"><br /><small>PAGE</small></div> + +<ul class="toc"> +<li><br /><br /></li> +<li><a href="#frontispiece"><span class="smcap">An Outcropping Boulder Converted into a Rock Garden</span> <span class="tocnum"><i>Frontispiece</i></span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg8_photo"><span class="smcap">A Flight of Steps Through Rock Work</span> <span class="tocnum">8</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg16_photo"><span class="smcap">An Example of Good Rock Gardening</span> <span class="tocnum">16</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg26_photo"><span class="smcap">A Small Bit of Rock Work Where Two Paths Diverge</span> <span class="tocnum">26</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg34_photo"><span class="smcap">Foam Flower and One of the Smaller Ferns</span> <span class="tocnum">34</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg42_photo"><span class="smcap">The Rock Garden Built Along a Main Curving Path</span> <span class="tocnum">42</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg46_photo"><span class="smcap">A Wall Garden Planted in Colonies</span> <span class="tocnum">46</span></a></li> + +<li><a href="#pg50_photo"><span class="smcap">A Fountain in a Wall Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">50</span></a></li> +</ul> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3>Making a Rock Garden</h3> + +<p><!-- Page 1 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="THE_ROCK_GARDEN" id="THE_ROCK_GARDEN"></a>THE ROCK GARDEN</h2> + +<p>In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established +institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject +alone form a considerable bibliography.</p> + +<p>On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood +that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home +grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on +large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done +on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by +taking advantage of natural opportunities. But<!-- Page 2 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> for the most part +America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called +"rockery."</p> + +<p>Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a +rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted +in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of +stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones +filled in with soil.</p> + +<p>A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as +appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or +many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but +always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock +garden's one and only creed is nature.</p> + +<p>Rock gardens are of so many legitimate—in other words, natural—types, +that<!-- Page 3 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that +commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the +ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The +natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the +timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles +to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the +very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are +now and then incorporated in, them—here a pool, there a brook. The bog, +too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps +only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up +massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature +makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's<!-- Page 4 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> +Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the +unnumbered examples of this.</p> + +<p>Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock +garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever +been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that +nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and +the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations.</p> + +<p>The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of +picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a +place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that, +if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as +in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may +be made a<!-- Page 5 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally—and +here is one of the most important things to be learned +about the rock garden—it is the veritable key to the garden situation; +there are small places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it +is possible.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 6 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="THE_CHOICE_OF_A_SITE" id="THE_CHOICE_OF_A_SITE"></a>THE CHOICE OF A SITE</h2> + +<p>The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad +truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of +time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your +eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as +if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to +belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in +enjoying the rock gardens of other people.</p> + +<p>As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something +savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture. +Exceptions are when the<!-- Page 7 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> house is on a rocky site that makes such +planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one +side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in +the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is +better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard +as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a +planting of shrubbery.</p> + +<p>Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn +unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from +the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may +be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a +lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either +is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either<!-- Page 8 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> side of steps +leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be +considered.</p> + +<p>Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to +the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden +near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the +greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to +dislocate the stones.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;"> +<a name="pg8_photo" id="pg8_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_2.jpg" width="440" height="700" alt="Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a +rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as +well as those of the side walls" title="A Flight of Steps Through Rock Work" /></a> +<span class="caption">Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a +rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as +well as those of the side walls</span> +</div> + +<p>Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is +only a step from one little world into another that is altogether +different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or +through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The +more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden +not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well<!-- Page 9 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> that all of +it should be comprehended in a single view—no matter whether the area +be large or small.</p> + +<p>What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing +American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house +the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a +fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a +meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the +driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but +actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In +this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though +bounded on the north—it runs east and west—by the formal garden and on +the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of +these, nor from the house. It<!-- Page 10 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> is conveniently near all three, yet +distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on +the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the +formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the +bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive +collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden +and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does +not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a +little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call +it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock +garden form; so are hill and crest.</p> + +<p>Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up +from various parts of the place or brought in<!-- Page 11 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> from the outside. But +many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often +more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now +and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if +all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the +choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be. +Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site +settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it.</p> + +<p>A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be +converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little +judicious planting and the transformation is complete.</p> + +<p>A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible, +without injury to the main scheme, the garden<!-- Page 12 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> should be brought to the +water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable; +which can be determined when the site is picked out.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 13 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="THE_WORK_OF_CONSTRUCTION" id="THE_WORK_OF_CONSTRUCTION"></a>THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION</h2> + +<p>Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter +of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be +planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of +the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to +the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the +circumstances.</p> + +<p>Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All +the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you, +since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of +course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most, +nature—more<!-- Page 14 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere +there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the +Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock +gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively +few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the +disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of +height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the +planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock +garden scheme.</p> + +<p>Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on +cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the +labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if +possible, an equally good exit—the one invisible from the other.<!-- Page 15 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> Then +outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation +allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more +pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate +nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to +epitomize it.</p> + +<p>Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand, +perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not +fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman +who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you +want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not +desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size, +is not great.</p> + +<p>Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of +natural stone may be made use of to the best<!-- Page 16 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> advantage. Artificial +stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are +good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify, +and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A +good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart. +Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is +well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some +rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not +disturbed by the moving.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<a name="pg16_photo" id="pg16_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_3.jpg" width="700" height="460" alt="Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species +has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular +crevices" title="An Example of Good Rock Gardening" /></a> +<span class="caption">Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species +has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular +crevices</span> +</div> + +<p>Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily +obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small +ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as +stonecrops in earth—which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is<!-- Page 17 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar.</p> + +<p>If the site is level, the next step is to change all that—first on +paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the +configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the +upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep +enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk.</p> + +<p>Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the +soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they +are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of +the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be +placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size. +It is not essential that the lowest rocks should<!-- Page 18 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> be slightly buried in +the ground, but that course is preferable.</p> + +<p>When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more +rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not +close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming +it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not +a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and +when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed +down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock.</p> + +<p>This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge +slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope, +though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain +plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds<!-- Page 19 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely +arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of +vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure +of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks +used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care +must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches +should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny +rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but +its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in +the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep +penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the +roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden +hollow.<!-- Page 20 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/diag1.png" width="400" height="186" alt="Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it, +even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small + stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so +that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it, +even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small + stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so +that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B</span> +</div> + +<p>At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two +or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is +likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be +avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The +roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous, +though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock +work to the solid filling<!-- Page 21 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> of earth. The run should slope downward +slightly.</p> + +<p>Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid +on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be +employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called +"pockets."</p> + +<p>These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock +garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief +means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects. +They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and +distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones +when the planting is done if a further separation of species is +desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will +be no standing water.<!-- Page 22 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/diag2.png" width="600" height="367" alt="Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing + shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C); + bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three +inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing + shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C); + bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three +inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried</span> +</div> + +<p>The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be +plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of +summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain +naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of +eight<!-- Page 23 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones.</p> + +<p>The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in +size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but +it must be old.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 24 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="PLANTING_THE_GARDEN" id="PLANTING_THE_GARDEN"></a>PLANTING THE GARDEN</h2> + +<p>There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the +crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is +to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly +settled.</p> + +<p>The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one. +There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the +work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact +that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in +crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part +way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on +top, and the<!-- Page 25 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless +it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside +the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill +up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants +of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears +necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher +crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand.</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought +out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural +plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the +more difficult rock plants—the alpines, some of the ferns, and those +plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary +garden<!-- Page 26 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most +desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or +"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those +when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections +of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers, +each corresponding to a species.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<a name="pg26_photo" id="pg26_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_4.jpg" width="700" height="391" alt="Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock +work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of + straight lines" title="A Small Bit of Rock Work Where Two Paths Diverge" /></a> +<span class="caption">Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock +work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of + straight lines</span> +</div> + +<p>The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not +necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two +seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little +importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a +few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green +the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature +will show you. Plants clustered here and<!-- Page 27 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> single there is a good +planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge +into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no +stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are +obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example, +calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in +a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one +hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference +to fifty or more kinds.</p> + +<p>Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some +quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere +tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some +have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one<!-- Page 28 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +plant of <i>Saponaria ocymoides</i> will spread out over four square feet of +soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to +conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be +used. The same is true of the white rock cress (<i>Arabis albida</i>). So, +too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops +would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds +of house leek would be called for.</p> + +<p>Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group, +at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed +behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the +entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants +make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds. +Spreading and trailing plants should be<!-- Page 29 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> placed a foot or more above the +path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the +path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the +base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate +spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not +tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in +both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space—even +between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and +not as much of an undertaking as it may seem.</p> + +<p>Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after +moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it +is astonishing how adaptive many of them are.</p> + +<p>Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of<!-- Page 30 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize +what a mistake you have made.</p> + +<p>Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the +beginning—of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will +always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will +be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less +rearrangement.</p> + +<p>And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be +done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the +loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use +a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth +of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary +garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots +near the top of the soil<!-- Page 31 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> leaves the plants in no condition to stand the +full force of the summer sun.</p> + +<p>Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp +lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the +fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant +will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch +out for weak spots after very heavy rains.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 32 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="PLANTS_FOR_A_ROCK_GARDEN" id="PLANTS_FOR_A_ROCK_GARDEN"></a>PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN</h2> + +<p>So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice +is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden, +advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very +fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand; +a little intelligent thought helps a lot.</p> + +<p>To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies +to the picking out of the rocks—use the material which is close at +hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines +of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always +an endless amount of beautiful and suita<!-- Page 33 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>ble plant life to be had +without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your +immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your +grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for +the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers +not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the +gardens—the hardy gardens—of others, where you can at once choose from +the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too +much care for your use.</p> + +<p>So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned, +their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time, +who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious, +cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most<!-- Page 34 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> realize, +and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the +bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an +individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden. +Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too +familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly, +can you say in your heart that they are?</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> +<a name="pg34_photo" id="pg34_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_5.jpg" width="480" height="800" alt="Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden. +The foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia) at the top, and one of the +smaller ferns at the bottom" title="Foam Flower and One of the Smaller Ferns" /></a> +<span class="caption">Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden. +The foam flower (<i>Tiarella cordifolia</i>) at the top, and one of the +smaller ferns at the bottom</span> +</div> + +<p>For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (<i>Polemonium reptans</i>) +must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection +of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why +should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place +in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for +it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas, +gen<!-- Page 35 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>tians from the Swiss Alps, and <i>Dryas Drummondi</i> from the Canadian +Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of +some of the common things near-by—even the "pale primrose" and the +cowslip.</p> + +<p>From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most +beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering +plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It +goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's +in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be.</p> + +<p>Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new +beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine +(<i>Chelidonium majus</i>), strawberry (<i>Fragaria Virginica</i>), cranesbill +(<i>Geranium maculatum</i>), toadflax (<i>Linaria</i><!-- Page 36 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> <i>vulgaris</i>), orange hawkweed +(<i>Hieracium auranticum</i>), herb Robert (<i>Geranium Robertianum</i>), +coltsfoot (<i>Tussilago Farfara</i>), Solomon's seal (<i>Polygonatum +biflorum</i>), foam flower (<i>Tiarella cordifolia</i>), bloodroot (<i>Sanguinaria +Canadensis</i>), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and +random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine, +and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not +allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are +many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are +allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded +altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden +a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out +altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain<!-- Page 37 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not +care to see remain forever and a day.</p> + +<p>Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing, +the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but +in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of +individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject +the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (<i>Linaria alpina</i>), +just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be +placed on perennials—the plants that, barring accidents, last +indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not +use the bizarre—Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris. +Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double +daffodil looks horribly out of<!-- Page 38 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> place, while the double white rock cress +(<i>Arabis albida</i>) will pass.</p> + +<p>The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the +wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East. +Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly +suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the +best of these for carpets of bloom are <i>Phlox subulata</i>, <i>Phlox +amœna</i>, <i>Aubrietia deltoidea</i>, maiden pink (<i>Dianthus deltoides</i>), +blue bugle (<i>Ajuga Genevensis</i>), white bugle (<i>Ajuga reptans</i>), woolly +chickweed (<i>Cerastium tomentosum</i>), creeping thyme (<i>Thymus serpyllum</i>), +dwarf speedwell (<i>Veronica repens</i>), <i>Saponaria ocymoides</i>, alpine mint +(<i>Calamintha alpina</i>), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum). +All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other<!-- Page 39 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> plants that form a +carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include +white rock cress (<i>Arabis albida</i>), the permissible double buttercup +(<i>Ranunculus acris fl. pl.</i>), the also permissible double German +catchfly (<i>Lychnis viscaria</i>), another double flower, "fair maids of +France" (<i>Ranunculus aconitifolius</i>), Carpathian bellflower (<i>Campanula +Carpatica</i>), grass pink (<i>Dianthus plumarius</i>), <i>Iris pumila</i>, crested +iris (<i>Iris cristata</i>), Christmas rose (<i>Helleborus niger</i>), <i>Phlox +divaricata</i>, <i>Phlox ovata</i>, <i>Phlox repens</i>, foam flower (<i>Tiarella +cordifolia</i>), <i>Veronica incana</i>, <i>Alyssum saxatile</i>, <i>Saxifraga +cordifolia</i>, and various avens (geum).</p> + +<p>Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close—as +it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (<i>Primula +vulgaris</i>), cowslip<!-- Page 40 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> (<i>P. veris</i>), oxlip (<i>P. elatior</i>), bird's eye (<i>P. +farinosa</i>), yellow auricula (<i>P. auricula</i>), <i>P. denticulata</i>, and <i>P. +Cortusoides</i>. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for +the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when +they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types +may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the +species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe +and the little lady tulip (<i>Tulipa Clusiana</i>). Crocuses are also best in +type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest +daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but +better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser +clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other +valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, <i>Scilla</i><!-- Page 41 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> <i>Sibirica</i>, glory-of-the-snow +(<i>Chionodoxa Luciliæ</i>), guinea-hen flower (<i>Fritillaria Meleagris</i>), +grape hyacinth (<i>Muscari botryoides</i>), <i>Triteleia uniflora</i>, <i>Allium +Moly</i>, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (<i>Scilla nutans</i> and +<i>campanulata</i>).</p> + +<p>Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single +specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (<i>Aconitum autumnale</i>), +<i>Yucca filamentosa</i>, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either +herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the +yellow flag (<i>Iris pseudacorus</i>), single columbines, <i>Anemone Japonica</i>, +<i>Hemerocallis flava</i>, <i>Sedum spectabile</i>, <i>Dielytra spectabile</i>, +<i>Dielytra formosa</i>, Jacob's ladder (<i><ins class="correction" title="Note: original reads 'Polemonicum'">Polemonium</ins> Richardsonii</i>), +fraxinella, <i>Anthemis tinctoria</i>, single <i>Campanula persicifolia</i>, +<i>Campanula rapunculoides</i>, <i>Campanula glomerata</i>, globe flower<!-- Page 42 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is +proven hardy), and musk mallow (<i>Malva moschata</i>).</p> + +<p>Of the lilies, <i>Lilium Philadelphicum</i>, <i>L. elegans</i>, <i>L. speciosum</i>, +and <i>L. longiflorum</i> are all desirable, and they thrive in partial +shade, though in Japan <i>L. elegans</i> will be found standing out from the +rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather +than being placed in it, <i>L. Canadense</i>, <i>L. tigrinum</i>, and <i>L. +superbum</i> are recommended.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<a name="pg42_photo" id="pg42_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_6.jpg" width="700" height="389" alt="A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is +desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas" title="The Rock Garden Built Along a Main Curving Path" /></a> +<span class="caption">A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is +desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas</span> +</div> + +<p>The pick of the low shrubs are the charming <i>Daphne cneorum</i>, which +flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and +<i>Azalea amœna</i>. The latter, however, should be so placed that its +trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and +mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well,<!-- Page 43 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> and with one trailing +juniper (<i>Juniperus procumbens</i>) will provide a great deal of the +refreshing winter green.</p> + +<p>Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them. +Good ones are <i>R. setigera</i>, <i>R. rubiginosa</i>, <i>R. Wichuraiana</i>, all +rampant, and the low <i>R. blanda</i>. The roses would better be at or near +the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble +over small plants.</p> + +<p>The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their +soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the +ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are +considered, but none is apt to perish with average care.</p> + +<p>Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time, +money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them<!-- Page 44 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> take kindly to being +transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the +edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely +beautiful <i>Gentiana acaulis</i> thrives in American rock gardens. But, on +the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the +summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at +the cost of a great amount of professional care.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 45 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="THE_WALL_GARDEN" id="THE_WALL_GARDEN"></a>THE WALL GARDEN</h2> + +<p>A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden +is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need +not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a +curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it +can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the +gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum.</p> + +<p>The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough +stones—that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it +tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be +tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be +accomplished with<!-- Page 46 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot +retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the +roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be +made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of +stones and filling in solidly with soil.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/diag3.png" width="400" height="294" alt="Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing +the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1—Arabis albida; +2—Alyssum saxatile; 3—House leek (sempervivum); 4—Viola tricolor; +5—Armeria maritima" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing +the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1—<i>Arabis albida</i>; +2—<i>Alyssum saxatile</i>; 3—House leek (sempervivum); 4—<i>Viola tricolor</i>; +5—<i>Armeria maritima</i></span> +<br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<a name="pg46_photo" id="pg46_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_7.jpg" width="700" height="462" alt="A wall garden planted in colonies—the better way. If not +too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base" title="A Wall Garden Planted in Colonies" /></a> +<span class="caption">A wall garden planted in colonies—the better way. If not +too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base</span> +</div> + +<p>Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly +perpendicular, it is<!-- Page 47 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> better that each layer should recede a bit. +Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so +that the top will be level, or approximately so.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/diag4.png" width="400" height="398" alt="Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing + crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing + crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks</span> +</div> + +<p>In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the +work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press +carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be +mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice +make a pill of the mixture.<!-- Page 48 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> +<img src="images/diag5.png" width="382" height="400" alt="Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil +filling and here and there one on top of it" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil +filling and here and there one on top of it</span> +</div> + +<p>The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not +great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the +house leeks, <i>Arabis albida</i>, red valerian (<i>Centranthus ruber</i>), +aubrietia, <i>Alyssum saxatile</i>, snapdragon, wallflower (<i>Cheiranthus +Cheiri</i>), Kenilworth ivy, <i>Viola tricolor</i>, <i>Dianthus plumarius</i>, and +<i>Dianthus deltoides</i> are all very ser<!-- Page 49 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>viceable. Behind the wall, at the +top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants +can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a +sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall +or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder, +can be created with the perennial pea (<i>Lathyrus latifolius</i>).</p> + +<p>If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil +if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless; +here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small +stone should be removed.</p> + +<p>A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily +constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility +where the other is not.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><!-- Page 50 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="WATER_AND_BOG_GARDENS" id="WATER_AND_BOG_GARDENS"></a>WATER AND BOG GARDENS</h2> + +<p>Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or +both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They +solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water +lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly +contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may +often be introduced at little expense.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;"> +<a name="pg50_photo" id="pg50_photo"> +<img src="images/photo_8.jpg" width="432" height="700" alt="A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque +break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously" title="A Fountain in a Wall Garden" /></a> +<span class="caption">A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque +break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously</span> +</div> + +<p>In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is +necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by +building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little +below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones +on that. A<!-- Page 51 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by +imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/diag6.png" width="400" height="176" alt="To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a +shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water +line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder" title="" /> +<span class="caption">To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a +shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water +line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder</span> +</div> + +<p>Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere +notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some +goldfish. They like mosquito larvæ.</p> + +<p>Water lilies and sagittaria—one plant will do if the pool is small—in +the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow +flag, globe flower, and <i>Lythrum roseum</i> are good selections.<!-- Page 52 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the +perennial kind (<i>Myosotis palustris semperflorens</i>).</p> + +<p>The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden +adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and +moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants +flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf +mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel, +must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement +or puddled clay.</p> + +<hr style="width: 25%;" /> + +<div class="tr">Transcriber's Note:<br /> A spelling error has been corrected: "<i>Polemonicum</i>" +to "<i>Polemonium</i>" (<a href="#Page_41">Page 41</a>)<br /></div> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + +***** This file should be named 24496-h.htm or 24496-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/4/9/24496/ + +Produced by S. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making A Rock Garden + +Author: Henry Sherman Adams + +Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + + + + +Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + + + + THE + HOUSE & GARDEN + MAKING + BOOKS + + +It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which _Making a Rock Garden_ is one, a complete library of +authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities +of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams +will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the +possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more +important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the +titles already issued or planned for early publication are the +following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis +Court_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a +Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making +Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Garden to Bloom This +Year_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making +the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb +Garden_; with others to be announced later. + + +[Illustration: A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a +beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant +there and around the edges of the boulder _Phlox subulata_, sedum, +arabis, etc.] + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + By H. S. ADAMS + + [Decoration] + + NEW YORK + McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY + 1912 + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + MCBRIDE, NAST & CO. + + Published May, 1912 + + + + +CONTENTS + + PAGE + + THE ROCK GARDEN 1 + + THE CHOICE OF A SITE 6 + + THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION 13 + + PLANTING THE GARDEN 24 + + PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN 32 + + THE WALL GARDEN 45 + + WATER AND BOG GARDENS 50 + + + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + + AN OUTCROPPING BOULDER CONVERTED _Frontispiece_ + INTO A ROCK GARDEN + FACING + PAGE + + A FLIGHT OF STEPS THROUGH ROCK WORK 8 + + AN EXAMPLE OF GOOD ROCK GARDENING 16 + + A SMALL BIT OF ROCK WORK WHERE TWO PATHS DIVERGE 26 + + FOAM FLOWER AND ONE OF THE SMALLER FERNS 34 + + THE ROCK GARDEN BUILT ALONG A MAIN CURVING PATH 42 + + A WALL GARDEN PLANTED IN COLONIES 46 + + A FOUNTAIN IN A WALL GARDEN 50 + + + + + MAKING A + ROCK GARDEN + + + + +Making a Rock Garden + +THE ROCK GARDEN + + +In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established +institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject +alone form a considerable bibliography. + +On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood +that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home +grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on +large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done +on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by +taking advantage of natural opportunities. But for the most part +America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called +"rockery." + +Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a +rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted +in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of +stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones +filled in with soil. + +A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as +appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or +many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but +always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock +garden's one and only creed is nature. + +Rock gardens are of so many legitimate--in other words, natural--types, +that there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that +commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the +ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The +natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the +timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles +to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the +very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are +now and then incorporated in, them--here a pool, there a brook. The bog, +too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps +only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up +massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature +makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's +Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the +unnumbered examples of this. + +Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock +garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever +been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that +nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and +the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations. + +The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of +picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a +place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that, +if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as +in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may +be made a pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally--and +here is one of the most important things to be learned about the rock +garden--it is the veritable key to the garden situation; there are small +places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it is possible. + + + + +THE CHOICE OF A SITE + + +The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad +truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of +time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your +eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as +if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to +belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in +enjoying the rock gardens of other people. + +As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something +savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture. +Exceptions are when the house is on a rocky site that makes such +planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one +side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in +the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is +better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard +as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a +planting of shrubbery. + +Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn +unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from +the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may +be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a +lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either +is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either side of steps +leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be +considered. + +Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to +the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden +near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the +greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to +dislocate the stones. + +Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is +only a step from one little world into another that is altogether +different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or +through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The +more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden +not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well that all of +it should be comprehended in a single view--no matter whether the area +be large or small. + +[Illustration: Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a +rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as +well as those of the side walls] + +What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing +American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house +the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a +fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a +meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the +driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but +actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In +this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though +bounded on the north--it runs east and west--by the formal garden and on +the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of +these, nor from the house. It is conveniently near all three, yet +distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on +the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the +formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the +bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive +collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden +and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does +not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a +little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call +it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock +garden form; so are hill and crest. + +Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up +from various parts of the place or brought in from the outside. But +many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often +more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now +and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if +all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the +choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be. +Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site +settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it. + +A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be +converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little +judicious planting and the transformation is complete. + +A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible, +without injury to the main scheme, the garden should be brought to the +water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable; +which can be determined when the site is picked out. + + + + +THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION + + +Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter +of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be +planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of +the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to +the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the +circumstances. + +Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All +the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you, +since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of +course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most, +nature--more particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere +there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the +Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock +gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively +few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the +disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of +height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the +planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock +garden scheme. + +Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on +cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the +labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if +possible, an equally good exit--the one invisible from the other. Then +outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation +allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more +pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate +nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to +epitomize it. + +Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand, +perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not +fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman +who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you +want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not +desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size, +is not great. + +Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of +natural stone may be made use of to the best advantage. Artificial +stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are +good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify, +and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A +good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart. +Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is +well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some +rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not +disturbed by the moving. + +[Illustration: Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species +has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular +crevices] + +Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily +obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small +ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as +stonecrops in earth--which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is +always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar. + +If the site is level, the next step is to change all that--first on +paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the +configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the +upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep +enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk. + +Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the +soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they +are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of +the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be +placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size. +It is not essential that the lowest rocks should be slightly buried in +the ground, but that course is preferable. + +When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more +rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not +close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming +it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not +a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and +when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed +down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock. + +This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge +slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope, +though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain +plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds +as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely +arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of +vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure +of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks +used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care +must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches +should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny +rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but +its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in +the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep +penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the +roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden +hollow. + +[Illustration: Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it, +even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small +stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so +that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B] + +At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two +or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is +likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be +avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The +roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous, +though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock +work to the solid filling of earth. The run should slope downward +slightly. + +Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid +on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be +employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called +"pockets." + +These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock +garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief +means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects. +They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and +distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones +when the planting is done if a further separation of species is +desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will +be no standing water. + +[Illustration: Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing +shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C); +bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three +inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried] + +The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be +plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of +summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain +naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of +eight inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones. + +The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in +size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but +it must be old. + + + + +PLANTING THE GARDEN + + +There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the +crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is +to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly +settled. + +The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one. +There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the +work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact +that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in +crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part +way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on +top, and the plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless +it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside +the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill +up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants +of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears +necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher +crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand. + +As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought +out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural +plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the +more difficult rock plants--the alpines, some of the ferns, and those +plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary +garden moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most +desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or +"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those +when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections +of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers, +each corresponding to a species. + +[Illustration: Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock +work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of +straight lines] + +The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not +necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two +seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little +importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a +few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green +the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature +will show you. Plants clustered here and single there is a good +planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge +into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no +stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are +obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example, +calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in +a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one +hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference +to fifty or more kinds. + +Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some +quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere +tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some +have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one +plant of _Saponaria ocymoides_ will spread out over four square feet of +soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to +conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be +used. The same is true of the white rock cress (_Arabis albida_). So, +too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops +would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds +of house leek would be called for. + +Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group, +at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed +behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the +entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants +make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds. +Spreading and trailing plants should be placed a foot or more above the +path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the +path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the +base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate +spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not +tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in +both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space--even +between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and +not as much of an undertaking as it may seem. + +Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after +moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it +is astonishing how adaptive many of them are. + +Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of +eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize +what a mistake you have made. + +Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the +beginning--of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will +always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will +be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less +rearrangement. + +And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be +done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the +loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use +a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth +of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary +garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots +near the top of the soil leaves the plants in no condition to stand the +full force of the summer sun. + +Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp +lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the +fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant +will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch +out for weak spots after very heavy rains. + + + + +PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN + + +So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice +is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden, +advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very +fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand; +a little intelligent thought helps a lot. + +To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies +to the picking out of the rocks--use the material which is close at +hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines +of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always +an endless amount of beautiful and suitable plant life to be had +without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your +immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your +grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for +the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers +not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the +gardens--the hardy gardens--of others, where you can at once choose from +the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too +much care for your use. + +So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned, +their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time, +who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious, +cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most realize, +and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the +bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an +individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden. +Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too +familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly, +can you say in your heart that they are? + +For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (_Polemonium reptans_) +must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection +of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why +should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place +in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for +it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas, +gentians from the Swiss Alps, and _Dryas Drummondi_ from the Canadian +Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of +some of the common things near-by--even the "pale primrose" and the +cowslip. + +[Illustration: Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden. +The foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_) at the top, and one of the +smaller ferns at the bottom] + +From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most +beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering +plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It +goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's +in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be. + +Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new +beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine +(_Chelidonium majus_), strawberry (_Fragaria Virginica_), cranesbill +(_Geranium maculatum_), toadflax (_Linaria vulgaris_), orange hawkweed +(_Hieracium auranticum_), herb Robert (_Geranium Robertianum_), +coltsfoot (_Tussilago Farfara_), Solomon's seal (_Polygonatum +biflorum_), foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_), bloodroot (_Sanguinaria +Canadensis_), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and +random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine, +and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not +allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are +many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are +allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded +altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden +a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out +altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain +plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not +care to see remain forever and a day. + +Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing, +the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but +in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of +individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject +the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (_Linaria alpina_), +just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be +placed on perennials--the plants that, barring accidents, last +indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not +use the bizarre--Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris. +Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double +daffodil looks horribly out of place, while the double white rock cress +(_Arabis albida_) will pass. + +The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the +wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East. +Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly +suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the +best of these for carpets of bloom are _Phlox subulata_, _Phlox +am[oe]na_, _Aubrietia deltoidea_, maiden pink (_Dianthus deltoides_), +blue bugle (_Ajuga Genevensis_), white bugle (_Ajuga reptans_), woolly +chickweed (_Cerastium tomentosum_), creeping thyme (_Thymus serpyllum_), +dwarf speedwell (_Veronica repens_), _Saponaria ocymoides_, alpine mint +(_Calamintha alpina_), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum). +All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other plants that form a +carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include +white rock cress (_Arabis albida_), the permissible double buttercup +(_Ranunculus acris fl. pl._), the also permissible double German +catchfly (_Lychnis viscaria_), another double flower, "fair maids of +France" (_Ranunculus aconitifolius_), Carpathian bellflower (_Campanula +Carpatica_), grass pink (_Dianthus plumarius_), _Iris pumila_, crested +iris (_Iris cristata_), Christmas rose (_Helleborus niger_), _Phlox +divaricata_, _Phlox ovata_, _Phlox repens_, foam flower (_Tiarella +cordifolia_), _Veronica incana_, _Alyssum saxatile_, _Saxifraga +cordifolia_, and various avens (geum). + +Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close--as +it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (_Primula +vulgaris_), cowslip (_P. veris_), oxlip (_P. elatior_), bird's eye (_P. +farinosa_), yellow auricula (_P. auricula_), _P. denticulata_, and _P. +Cortusoides_. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for +the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when +they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types +may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the +species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe +and the little lady tulip (_Tulipa Clusiana_). Crocuses are also best in +type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest +daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but +better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser +clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other +valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, _Scilla Sibirica_, glory-of-the-snow +(_Chionodoxa Luciliae_), guinea-hen flower (_Fritillaria Meleagris_), +grape hyacinth (_Muscari botryoides_), _Triteleia uniflora_, _Allium +Moly_, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (_Scilla nutans_ and +_campanulata_). + +Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single +specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (_Aconitum autumnale_), +_Yucca filamentosa_, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either +herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the +yellow flag (_Iris pseudacorus_), single columbines, _Anemone Japonica_, +_Hemerocallis flava_, _Sedum spectabile_, _Dielytra spectabile_, +_Dielytra formosa_, Jacob's ladder (_Polemonium Richardsonii_), +fraxinella, _Anthemis tinctoria_, single _Campanula persicifolia_, +_Campanula rapunculoides_, _Campanula glomerata_, globe flower +(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is +proven hardy), and musk mallow (_Malva moschata_). + +Of the lilies, _Lilium Philadelphicum_, _L. elegans_, _L. speciosum_, +and _L. longiflorum_ are all desirable, and they thrive in partial +shade, though in Japan _L. elegans_ will be found standing out from the +rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather +than being placed in it, _L. Canadense_, _L. tigrinum_, and _L. +superbum_ are recommended. + +[Illustration: A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is +desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas] + +The pick of the low shrubs are the charming _Daphne cneorum_, which +flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and +_Azalea am[oe]na_. The latter, however, should be so placed that its +trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and +mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well, and with one trailing +juniper (_Juniperus procumbens_) will provide a great deal of the +refreshing winter green. + +Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them. +Good ones are _R. setigera_, _R. rubiginosa_, _R. Wichuraiana_, all +rampant, and the low _R. blanda_. The roses would better be at or near +the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble +over small plants. + +The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their +soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the +ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are +considered, but none is apt to perish with average care. + +Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time, +money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them take kindly to being +transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the +edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely +beautiful _Gentiana acaulis_ thrives in American rock gardens. But, on +the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the +summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at +the cost of a great amount of professional care. + + + + +THE WALL GARDEN + + +A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden +is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need +not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a +curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it +can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the +gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum. + +The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough +stones--that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it +tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be +tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be +accomplished with small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot +retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the +roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be +made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of +stones and filling in solidly with soil. + +[Illustration: Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing +the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1--_Arabis albida_; +2--_Alyssum saxatile_; 3--House leek (sempervivum); 4--_Viola tricolor_; +5--_Armeria maritima_] + +[Illustration: A wall garden planted in colonies--the better way. If not +too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base] + +Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly +perpendicular, it is better that each layer should recede a bit. +Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so +that the top will be level, or approximately so. + +[Illustration: Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing +crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks] + +In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the +work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press +carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be +mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice +make a pill of the mixture. + +[Illustration: Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil +filling and here and there one on top of it] + +The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not +great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the +house leeks, _Arabis albida_, red valerian (_Centranthus ruber_), +aubrietia, _Alyssum saxatile_, snapdragon, wallflower (_Cheiranthus +Cheiri_), Kenilworth ivy, _Viola tricolor_, _Dianthus plumarius_, and +_Dianthus deltoides_ are all very serviceable. Behind the wall, at the +top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants +can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a +sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall +or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder, +can be created with the perennial pea (_Lathyrus latifolius_). + +If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil +if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless; +here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small +stone should be removed. + +A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily +constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility +where the other is not. + + + + +WATER AND BOG GARDENS + + +Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or +both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They +solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water +lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly +contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may +often be introduced at little expense. + +[Illustration: A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque +break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously] + +In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is +necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by +building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little +below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones +on that. A cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by +imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets. + +[Illustration: To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a +shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water +line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder] + +Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere +notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some +goldfish. They like mosquito larvae. + +Water lilies and sagittaria--one plant will do if the pool is small--in +the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow +flag, globe flower, and _Lythrum roseum_ are good selections. +Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the +perennial kind (_Myosotis palustris semperflorens_). + +The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden +adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and +moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants +flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf +mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel, +must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement +or puddled clay. + + * * * * * + +[Transcriber's Note: Two oe ligatures in the original book have been +rendered as [oe]. A spelling error in the original has also been +corrected: "Polemonicum" to "Polemonium" (Page 41: "... Jacob's ladder +(_Polemonium Richardsonii_) ...") Italics are rendered as _underscores_.] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN *** + +***** This file should be named 24496.txt or 24496.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/4/9/24496/ + +Produced by S. 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