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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making A Rock Garden
+
+Author: Henry Sherman Adams
+
+Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+
+
+  THE
+  HOUSE & GARDEN
+  MAKING
+  BOOKS
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Rock Garden_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis
+Court_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a
+Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Garden to Bloom This
+Year_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making
+the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb
+Garden_; with others to be announced later.
+
+
+[Illustration: A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a
+beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant
+there and around the edges of the boulder _Phlox subulata_, sedum,
+arabis, etc.]
+
+
+
+
+  MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+  By H. S. ADAMS
+
+  [Decoration]
+
+  NEW YORK
+  McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+  1912
+
+  COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
+  MCBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+  Published May, 1912
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+  THE ROCK GARDEN                                      1
+
+  THE CHOICE OF A SITE                                 6
+
+  THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION                            13
+
+  PLANTING THE GARDEN                                 24
+
+  PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN                            32
+
+  THE WALL GARDEN                                     45
+
+  WATER AND BOG GARDENS                               50
+
+
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  AN OUTCROPPING BOULDER CONVERTED         _Frontispiece_
+    INTO A ROCK GARDEN
+                                                  FACING
+                                                    PAGE
+
+  A FLIGHT OF STEPS THROUGH ROCK WORK                  8
+
+  AN EXAMPLE OF GOOD ROCK GARDENING                   16
+
+  A SMALL BIT OF ROCK WORK WHERE TWO PATHS DIVERGE    26
+
+  FOAM FLOWER AND ONE OF THE SMALLER FERNS            34
+
+  THE ROCK GARDEN BUILT ALONG A MAIN CURVING PATH     42
+
+  A WALL GARDEN PLANTED IN COLONIES                   46
+
+  A FOUNTAIN IN A WALL GARDEN                         50
+
+
+
+
+     MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+
+
+Making a Rock Garden
+
+THE ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established
+institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject
+alone form a considerable bibliography.
+
+On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood
+that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home
+grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on
+large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done
+on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by
+taking advantage of natural opportunities. But for the most part
+America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called
+"rockery."
+
+Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a
+rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted
+in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of
+stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones
+filled in with soil.
+
+A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as
+appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or
+many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but
+always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock
+garden's one and only creed is nature.
+
+Rock gardens are of so many legitimate--in other words, natural--types,
+that there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that
+commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the
+ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The
+natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the
+timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles
+to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the
+very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are
+now and then incorporated in, them--here a pool, there a brook. The bog,
+too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps
+only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up
+massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature
+makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's
+Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the
+unnumbered examples of this.
+
+Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock
+garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever
+been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that
+nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and
+the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations.
+
+The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of
+picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a
+place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that,
+if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as
+in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may
+be made a pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally--and
+here is one of the most important things to be learned about the rock
+garden--it is the veritable key to the garden situation; there are small
+places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it is possible.
+
+
+
+
+THE CHOICE OF A SITE
+
+
+The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad
+truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of
+time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your
+eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as
+if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to
+belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in
+enjoying the rock gardens of other people.
+
+As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something
+savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture.
+Exceptions are when the house is on a rocky site that makes such
+planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one
+side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in
+the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is
+better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard
+as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a
+planting of shrubbery.
+
+Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn
+unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from
+the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may
+be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a
+lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either
+is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either side of steps
+leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be
+considered.
+
+Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to
+the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden
+near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the
+greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to
+dislocate the stones.
+
+Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is
+only a step from one little world into another that is altogether
+different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or
+through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The
+more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden
+not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well that all of
+it should be comprehended in a single view--no matter whether the area
+be large or small.
+
+[Illustration: Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a
+rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as
+well as those of the side walls]
+
+What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing
+American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house
+the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a
+fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a
+meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the
+driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but
+actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In
+this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though
+bounded on the north--it runs east and west--by the formal garden and on
+the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of
+these, nor from the house. It is conveniently near all three, yet
+distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on
+the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the
+formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the
+bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive
+collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden
+and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does
+not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a
+little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call
+it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock
+garden form; so are hill and crest.
+
+Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up
+from various parts of the place or brought in from the outside. But
+many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often
+more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now
+and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if
+all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the
+choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be.
+Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site
+settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it.
+
+A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be
+converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little
+judicious planting and the transformation is complete.
+
+A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible,
+without injury to the main scheme, the garden should be brought to the
+water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable;
+which can be determined when the site is picked out.
+
+
+
+
+THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION
+
+
+Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter
+of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be
+planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of
+the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to
+the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the
+circumstances.
+
+Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All
+the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you,
+since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of
+course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most,
+nature--more particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere
+there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the
+Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock
+gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively
+few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the
+disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of
+height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the
+planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock
+garden scheme.
+
+Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on
+cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the
+labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if
+possible, an equally good exit--the one invisible from the other. Then
+outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation
+allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more
+pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate
+nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to
+epitomize it.
+
+Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand,
+perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not
+fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman
+who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you
+want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not
+desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size,
+is not great.
+
+Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of
+natural stone may be made use of to the best advantage. Artificial
+stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are
+good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify,
+and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A
+good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart.
+Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is
+well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some
+rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not
+disturbed by the moving.
+
+[Illustration: Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species
+has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular
+crevices]
+
+Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily
+obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small
+ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as
+stonecrops in earth--which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is
+always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar.
+
+If the site is level, the next step is to change all that--first on
+paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the
+configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the
+upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep
+enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk.
+
+Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the
+soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they
+are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of
+the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be
+placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size.
+It is not essential that the lowest rocks should be slightly buried in
+the ground, but that course is preferable.
+
+When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more
+rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not
+close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming
+it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not
+a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and
+when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed
+down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock.
+
+This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge
+slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope,
+though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain
+plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds
+as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely
+arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of
+vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure
+of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks
+used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care
+must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches
+should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny
+rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but
+its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in
+the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep
+penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the
+roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden
+hollow.
+
+[Illustration: Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it,
+even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small
+stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so
+that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B]
+
+At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two
+or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is
+likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be
+avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The
+roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous,
+though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock
+work to the solid filling of earth. The run should slope downward
+slightly.
+
+Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid
+on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be
+employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called
+"pockets."
+
+These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock
+garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief
+means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects.
+They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and
+distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones
+when the planting is done if a further separation of species is
+desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will
+be no standing water.
+
+[Illustration: Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing
+shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C);
+bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three
+inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried]
+
+The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be
+plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of
+summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain
+naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of
+eight inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones.
+
+The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in
+size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but
+it must be old.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTING THE GARDEN
+
+
+There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the
+crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is
+to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly
+settled.
+
+The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one.
+There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the
+work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact
+that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in
+crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part
+way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on
+top, and the plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless
+it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside
+the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill
+up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants
+of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears
+necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher
+crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand.
+
+As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought
+out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural
+plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the
+more difficult rock plants--the alpines, some of the ferns, and those
+plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary
+garden moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most
+desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or
+"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those
+when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections
+of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers,
+each corresponding to a species.
+
+[Illustration: Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock
+work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of
+straight lines]
+
+The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not
+necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two
+seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little
+importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a
+few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green
+the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature
+will show you. Plants clustered here and single there is a good
+planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge
+into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no
+stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are
+obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example,
+calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in
+a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one
+hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference
+to fifty or more kinds.
+
+Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some
+quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere
+tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some
+have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one
+plant of _Saponaria ocymoides_ will spread out over four square feet of
+soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to
+conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be
+used. The same is true of the white rock cress (_Arabis albida_). So,
+too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops
+would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds
+of house leek would be called for.
+
+Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group,
+at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed
+behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the
+entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants
+make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds.
+Spreading and trailing plants should be placed a foot or more above the
+path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the
+path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the
+base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate
+spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not
+tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in
+both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space--even
+between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and
+not as much of an undertaking as it may seem.
+
+Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after
+moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it
+is astonishing how adaptive many of them are.
+
+Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of
+eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize
+what a mistake you have made.
+
+Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the
+beginning--of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will
+always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will
+be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less
+rearrangement.
+
+And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be
+done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the
+loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use
+a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth
+of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary
+garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots
+near the top of the soil leaves the plants in no condition to stand the
+full force of the summer sun.
+
+Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp
+lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the
+fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant
+will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch
+out for weak spots after very heavy rains.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice
+is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden,
+advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very
+fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand;
+a little intelligent thought helps a lot.
+
+To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies
+to the picking out of the rocks--use the material which is close at
+hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines
+of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always
+an endless amount of beautiful and suitable plant life to be had
+without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your
+immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your
+grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for
+the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers
+not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the
+gardens--the hardy gardens--of others, where you can at once choose from
+the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too
+much care for your use.
+
+So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned,
+their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time,
+who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious,
+cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most realize,
+and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the
+bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an
+individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden.
+Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too
+familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly,
+can you say in your heart that they are?
+
+For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (_Polemonium reptans_)
+must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection
+of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why
+should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place
+in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for
+it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas,
+gentians from the Swiss Alps, and _Dryas Drummondi_ from the Canadian
+Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of
+some of the common things near-by--even the "pale primrose" and the
+cowslip.
+
+[Illustration: Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden.
+The foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_) at the top, and one of the
+smaller ferns at the bottom]
+
+From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most
+beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering
+plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It
+goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's
+in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be.
+
+Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new
+beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine
+(_Chelidonium majus_), strawberry (_Fragaria Virginica_), cranesbill
+(_Geranium maculatum_), toadflax (_Linaria vulgaris_), orange hawkweed
+(_Hieracium auranticum_), herb Robert (_Geranium Robertianum_),
+coltsfoot (_Tussilago Farfara_), Solomon's seal (_Polygonatum
+biflorum_), foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_), bloodroot (_Sanguinaria
+Canadensis_), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and
+random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine,
+and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not
+allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are
+many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are
+allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded
+altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden
+a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out
+altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain
+plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not
+care to see remain forever and a day.
+
+Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing,
+the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but
+in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of
+individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject
+the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (_Linaria alpina_),
+just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be
+placed on perennials--the plants that, barring accidents, last
+indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not
+use the bizarre--Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris.
+Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double
+daffodil looks horribly out of place, while the double white rock cress
+(_Arabis albida_) will pass.
+
+The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the
+wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East.
+Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly
+suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the
+best of these for carpets of bloom are _Phlox subulata_, _Phlox
+am[oe]na_, _Aubrietia deltoidea_, maiden pink (_Dianthus deltoides_),
+blue bugle (_Ajuga Genevensis_), white bugle (_Ajuga reptans_), woolly
+chickweed (_Cerastium tomentosum_), creeping thyme (_Thymus serpyllum_),
+dwarf speedwell (_Veronica repens_), _Saponaria ocymoides_, alpine mint
+(_Calamintha alpina_), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum).
+All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other plants that form a
+carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include
+white rock cress (_Arabis albida_), the permissible double buttercup
+(_Ranunculus acris fl. pl._), the also permissible double German
+catchfly (_Lychnis viscaria_), another double flower, "fair maids of
+France" (_Ranunculus aconitifolius_), Carpathian bellflower (_Campanula
+Carpatica_), grass pink (_Dianthus plumarius_), _Iris pumila_, crested
+iris (_Iris cristata_), Christmas rose (_Helleborus niger_), _Phlox
+divaricata_, _Phlox ovata_, _Phlox repens_, foam flower (_Tiarella
+cordifolia_), _Veronica incana_, _Alyssum saxatile_, _Saxifraga
+cordifolia_, and various avens (geum).
+
+Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close--as
+it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (_Primula
+vulgaris_), cowslip (_P. veris_), oxlip (_P. elatior_), bird's eye (_P.
+farinosa_), yellow auricula (_P. auricula_), _P. denticulata_, and _P.
+Cortusoides_. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for
+the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when
+they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types
+may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the
+species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe
+and the little lady tulip (_Tulipa Clusiana_). Crocuses are also best in
+type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest
+daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but
+better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser
+clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other
+valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, _Scilla Sibirica_, glory-of-the-snow
+(_Chionodoxa Luciliæ_), guinea-hen flower (_Fritillaria Meleagris_),
+grape hyacinth (_Muscari botryoides_), _Triteleia uniflora_, _Allium
+Moly_, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (_Scilla nutans_ and
+_campanulata_).
+
+Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single
+specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (_Aconitum autumnale_),
+_Yucca filamentosa_, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either
+herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the
+yellow flag (_Iris pseudacorus_), single columbines, _Anemone Japonica_,
+_Hemerocallis flava_, _Sedum spectabile_, _Dielytra spectabile_,
+_Dielytra formosa_, Jacob's ladder (_Polemonium Richardsonii_),
+fraxinella, _Anthemis tinctoria_, single _Campanula persicifolia_,
+_Campanula rapunculoides_, _Campanula glomerata_, globe flower
+(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is
+proven hardy), and musk mallow (_Malva moschata_).
+
+Of the lilies, _Lilium Philadelphicum_, _L. elegans_, _L. speciosum_,
+and _L. longiflorum_ are all desirable, and they thrive in partial
+shade, though in Japan _L. elegans_ will be found standing out from the
+rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather
+than being placed in it, _L. Canadense_, _L. tigrinum_, and _L.
+superbum_ are recommended.
+
+[Illustration: A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is
+desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas]
+
+The pick of the low shrubs are the charming _Daphne cneorum_, which
+flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and
+_Azalea am[oe]na_. The latter, however, should be so placed that its
+trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and
+mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well, and with one trailing
+juniper (_Juniperus procumbens_) will provide a great deal of the
+refreshing winter green.
+
+Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them.
+Good ones are _R. setigera_, _R. rubiginosa_, _R. Wichuraiana_, all
+rampant, and the low _R. blanda_. The roses would better be at or near
+the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble
+over small plants.
+
+The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their
+soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the
+ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are
+considered, but none is apt to perish with average care.
+
+Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time,
+money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them take kindly to being
+transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the
+edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely
+beautiful _Gentiana acaulis_ thrives in American rock gardens. But, on
+the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the
+summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at
+the cost of a great amount of professional care.
+
+
+
+
+THE WALL GARDEN
+
+
+A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden
+is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need
+not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a
+curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it
+can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the
+gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum.
+
+The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough
+stones--that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it
+tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be
+tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be
+accomplished with small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot
+retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the
+roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be
+made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of
+stones and filling in solidly with soil.
+
+[Illustration: Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing
+the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1--_Arabis albida_;
+2--_Alyssum saxatile_; 3--House leek (sempervivum); 4--_Viola tricolor_;
+5--_Armeria maritima_]
+
+[Illustration: A wall garden planted in colonies--the better way. If not
+too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base]
+
+Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly
+perpendicular, it is better that each layer should recede a bit.
+Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so
+that the top will be level, or approximately so.
+
+[Illustration: Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing
+crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks]
+
+In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the
+work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press
+carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be
+mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice
+make a pill of the mixture.
+
+[Illustration: Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil
+filling and here and there one on top of it]
+
+The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not
+great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the
+house leeks, _Arabis albida_, red valerian (_Centranthus ruber_),
+aubrietia, _Alyssum saxatile_, snapdragon, wallflower (_Cheiranthus
+Cheiri_), Kenilworth ivy, _Viola tricolor_, _Dianthus plumarius_, and
+_Dianthus deltoides_ are all very serviceable. Behind the wall, at the
+top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants
+can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a
+sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall
+or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder,
+can be created with the perennial pea (_Lathyrus latifolius_).
+
+If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil
+if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless;
+here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small
+stone should be removed.
+
+A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily
+constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility
+where the other is not.
+
+
+
+
+WATER AND BOG GARDENS
+
+
+Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or
+both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They
+solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water
+lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly
+contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may
+often be introduced at little expense.
+
+[Illustration: A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque
+break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously]
+
+In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is
+necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by
+building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little
+below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones
+on that. A cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by
+imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets.
+
+[Illustration: To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a
+shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water
+line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder]
+
+Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere
+notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some
+goldfish. They like mosquito larvæ.
+
+Water lilies and sagittaria--one plant will do if the pool is small--in
+the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow
+flag, globe flower, and _Lythrum roseum_ are good selections.
+Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the
+perennial kind (_Myosotis palustris semperflorens_).
+
+The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden
+adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and
+moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants
+flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf
+mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel,
+must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement
+or puddled clay.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Two oe ligatures in the original book have been
+rendered as [oe]. A spelling error in the original has also been
+corrected: "Polemonicum" to "Polemonium" (Page 41: "... Jacob's ladder
+(_Polemonium Richardsonii_) ...") Italics are rendered as _underscores_.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Making a Rock Garden, by H. S. Adams
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making A Rock Garden
+
+Author: Henry Sherman Adams
+
+Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
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+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;MAKING A<br />
+ROCK GARDEN
+</h1>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<div class="center">
+<br /><i>THE<br />
+HOUSE &amp; GARDEN<br />
+<span class="u">MAKING</span><br />
+BOOKS</i><br />
+</div>
+
+<p>It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which <i>Making a Rock Garden</i> is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: <i>Making a Rose Garden</i>; <i>Making a Lawn</i>; <i>Making a Tennis
+Court</i>; <i>Making a Fireplace</i>; <i>Making Paths and Driveways</i>; <i>Making a
+Poultry House</i>; <i>Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe</i>; <i>Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats</i>; <i>Making a Garden to Bloom This
+Year</i>; <i>Making a Water Garden</i>; <i>Making a Garden of Perennials</i>; <i>Making
+the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery</i>; <i>Making a Naturalized Bulb
+Garden</i>; with others to be announced later.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece">
+<img src="images/photo_1.jpg" width="700" height="427" alt="A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a
+beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant
+there and around the edges of the boulder Phlox subulata, sedum,
+ arabis, etc." title="An Outcropping Boulder Converted into a Rock Garden" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a
+beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant
+there and around the edges of the boulder <i>Phlox subulata</i>, sedum,
+ arabis, etc.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="centerleft">MAKING A<br />
+ROCK GARDEN</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>By</i> H. S. ADAMS</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 125px;">
+<img src="images/deco1.png" width="125" height="112" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><small>NEW YORK</small><br />
+McBRIDE, NAST &amp; COMPANY<br />
+1912</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap"><small>Copyright, 1912, by<br />
+McBRIDE, NAST &amp; CO.</small></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">Published May, 1912
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<p class="tocnum"><small>PAGE</small></p>
+
+<ul class="toc">
+<li><br /><br /></li>
+<li><a href="#Page_1"><span class="smcap">The Rock Garden</span>                    <span class="tocnum">1</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_6"><span class="smcap">The Choice of a Site</span>               <span class="tocnum">6</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_13"><span class="smcap">The Work of Construction</span>          <span class="tocnum">13</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_24"><span class="smcap">Planting the Garden</span>               <span class="tocnum">24</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_32"><span class="smcap">Plants for a Rock Garden</span>          <span class="tocnum">32</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_45"><span class="smcap">The Wall Garden</span>                   <span class="tocnum">45</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#Page_50"><span class="smcap">Water and Bog Gardens</span>             <span class="tocnum">50</span></a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>THE ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+
+
+<div class="tocnum"><small>FACING</small></div>
+<div class="tocnum"><br /><small>PAGE</small></div>
+
+<ul class="toc">
+<li><br /><br /></li>
+<li><a href="#frontispiece"><span class="smcap">An Outcropping Boulder Converted into a Rock Garden</span> <span class="tocnum"><i>Frontispiece</i></span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg8_photo"><span class="smcap">A Flight of Steps Through Rock Work</span> <span class="tocnum">8</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg16_photo"><span class="smcap">An Example of Good Rock Gardening</span> <span class="tocnum">16</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg26_photo"><span class="smcap">A Small Bit of Rock Work Where Two Paths Diverge</span> <span class="tocnum">26</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg34_photo"><span class="smcap">Foam Flower and One of the Smaller Ferns</span> <span class="tocnum">34</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg42_photo"><span class="smcap">The Rock Garden Built Along a Main Curving Path</span> <span class="tocnum">42</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg46_photo"><span class="smcap">A Wall Garden Planted in Colonies</span> <span class="tocnum">46</span></a></li>
+
+<li><a href="#pg50_photo"><span class="smcap">A Fountain in a Wall Garden</span> <span class="tocnum">50</span></a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>Making a Rock Garden</h3>
+
+<p><!-- Page 1 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_ROCK_GARDEN" id="THE_ROCK_GARDEN"></a>THE ROCK GARDEN</h2>
+
+<p>In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established
+institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject
+alone form a considerable bibliography.</p>
+
+<p>On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood
+that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home
+grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on
+large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done
+on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by
+taking advantage of natural opportunities. But<!-- Page 2 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> for the most part
+America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called
+"rockery."</p>
+
+<p>Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a
+rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted
+in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of
+stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones
+filled in with soil.</p>
+
+<p>A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as
+appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or
+many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but
+always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock
+garden's one and only creed is nature.</p>
+
+<p>Rock gardens are of so many legitimate&mdash;in other words, natural&mdash;types,
+that<!-- Page 3 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that
+commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the
+ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The
+natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the
+timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles
+to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the
+very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are
+now and then incorporated in, them&mdash;here a pool, there a brook. The bog,
+too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps
+only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up
+massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature
+makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's<!-- Page 4 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the
+unnumbered examples of this.</p>
+
+<p>Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock
+garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever
+been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that
+nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and
+the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations.</p>
+
+<p>The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of
+picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a
+place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that,
+if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as
+in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may
+be made a<!-- Page 5 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally&mdash;and
+here is one of the most important things to be learned
+about the rock garden&mdash;it is the veritable key to the garden situation;
+there are small places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it
+is possible.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 6 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_CHOICE_OF_A_SITE" id="THE_CHOICE_OF_A_SITE"></a>THE CHOICE OF A SITE</h2>
+
+<p>The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad
+truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of
+time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your
+eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as
+if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to
+belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in
+enjoying the rock gardens of other people.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something
+savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture.
+Exceptions are when the<!-- Page 7 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> house is on a rocky site that makes such
+planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one
+side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in
+the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is
+better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard
+as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a
+planting of shrubbery.</p>
+
+<p>Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn
+unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from
+the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may
+be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a
+lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either
+is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either<!-- Page 8 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> side of steps
+leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be
+considered.</p>
+
+<p>Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to
+the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden
+near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the
+greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to
+dislocate the stones.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;">
+<a name="pg8_photo" id="pg8_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_2.jpg" width="440" height="700" alt="Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a
+rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as
+well as those of the side walls" title="A Flight of Steps Through Rock Work" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a
+rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as
+well as those of the side walls</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is
+only a step from one little world into another that is altogether
+different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or
+through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The
+more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden
+not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well<!-- Page 9 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> that all of
+it should be comprehended in a single view&mdash;no matter whether the area
+be large or small.</p>
+
+<p>What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing
+American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house
+the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a
+fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a
+meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the
+driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but
+actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In
+this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though
+bounded on the north&mdash;it runs east and west&mdash;by the formal garden and on
+the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of
+these, nor from the house. It<!-- Page 10 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> is conveniently near all three, yet
+distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on
+the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the
+formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the
+bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive
+collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden
+and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does
+not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a
+little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call
+it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock
+garden form; so are hill and crest.</p>
+
+<p>Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up
+from various parts of the place or brought in<!-- Page 11 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> from the outside. But
+many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often
+more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now
+and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if
+all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the
+choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be.
+Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site
+settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it.</p>
+
+<p>A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be
+converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little
+judicious planting and the transformation is complete.</p>
+
+<p>A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible,
+without injury to the main scheme, the garden<!-- Page 12 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> should be brought to the
+water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable;
+which can be determined when the site is picked out.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 13 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_WORK_OF_CONSTRUCTION" id="THE_WORK_OF_CONSTRUCTION"></a>THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION</h2>
+
+<p>Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter
+of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be
+planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of
+the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to
+the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the
+circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All
+the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you,
+since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of
+course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most,
+nature&mdash;more<!-- Page 14 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere
+there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the
+Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock
+gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively
+few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the
+disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of
+height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the
+planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock
+garden scheme.</p>
+
+<p>Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on
+cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the
+labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if
+possible, an equally good exit&mdash;the one invisible from the other.<!-- Page 15 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> Then
+outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation
+allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more
+pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate
+nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to
+epitomize it.</p>
+
+<p>Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand,
+perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not
+fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman
+who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you
+want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not
+desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size,
+is not great.</p>
+
+<p>Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of
+natural stone may be made use of to the best<!-- Page 16 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> advantage. Artificial
+stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are
+good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify,
+and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A
+good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart.
+Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is
+well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some
+rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not
+disturbed by the moving.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<a name="pg16_photo" id="pg16_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_3.jpg" width="700" height="460" alt="Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species
+has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular
+crevices" title="An Example of Good Rock Gardening" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species
+has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular
+crevices</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily
+obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small
+ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as
+stonecrops in earth&mdash;which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is<!-- Page 17 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar.</p>
+
+<p>If the site is level, the next step is to change all that&mdash;first on
+paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the
+configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the
+upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep
+enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk.</p>
+
+<p>Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the
+soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they
+are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of
+the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be
+placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size.
+It is not essential that the lowest rocks should<!-- Page 18 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> be slightly buried in
+the ground, but that course is preferable.</p>
+
+<p>When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more
+rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not
+close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming
+it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not
+a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and
+when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed
+down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock.</p>
+
+<p>This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge
+slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope,
+though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain
+plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds<!-- Page 19 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely
+arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of
+vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure
+of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks
+used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care
+must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches
+should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny
+rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but
+its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in
+the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep
+penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the
+roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden
+hollow.<!-- Page 20 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/diag1.png" width="400" height="186" alt="Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it,
+even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small
+ stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so
+that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it,
+even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small
+ stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so
+that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two
+or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is
+likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be
+avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The
+roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous,
+though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock
+work to the solid filling<!-- Page 21 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> of earth. The run should slope downward
+slightly.</p>
+
+<p>Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid
+on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be
+employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called
+"pockets."</p>
+
+<p>These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock
+garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief
+means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects.
+They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and
+distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones
+when the planting is done if a further separation of species is
+desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will
+be no standing water.<!-- Page 22 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/diag2.png" width="600" height="367" alt="Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing
+ shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C);
+ bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three
+inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing
+ shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C);
+ bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three
+inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be
+plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of
+summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain
+naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of
+eight<!-- Page 23 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones.</p>
+
+<p>The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in
+size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but
+it must be old.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 24 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="PLANTING_THE_GARDEN" id="PLANTING_THE_GARDEN"></a>PLANTING THE GARDEN</h2>
+
+<p>There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the
+crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is
+to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly
+settled.</p>
+
+<p>The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one.
+There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the
+work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact
+that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in
+crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part
+way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on
+top, and the<!-- Page 25 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless
+it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside
+the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill
+up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants
+of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears
+necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher
+crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand.</p>
+
+<p>As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought
+out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural
+plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the
+more difficult rock plants&mdash;the alpines, some of the ferns, and those
+plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary
+garden<!-- Page 26 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most
+desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or
+"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those
+when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections
+of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers,
+each corresponding to a species.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<a name="pg26_photo" id="pg26_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_4.jpg" width="700" height="391" alt="Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock
+work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of
+ straight lines" title="A Small Bit of Rock Work Where Two Paths Diverge" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock
+work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of
+ straight lines</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not
+necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two
+seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little
+importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a
+few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green
+the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature
+will show you. Plants clustered here and<!-- Page 27 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> single there is a good
+planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge
+into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no
+stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are
+obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example,
+calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in
+a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one
+hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference
+to fifty or more kinds.</p>
+
+<p>Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some
+quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere
+tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some
+have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one<!-- Page 28 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+plant of <i>Saponaria ocymoides</i> will spread out over four square feet of
+soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to
+conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be
+used. The same is true of the white rock cress (<i>Arabis albida</i>). So,
+too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops
+would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds
+of house leek would be called for.</p>
+
+<p>Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group,
+at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed
+behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the
+entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants
+make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds.
+Spreading and trailing plants should be<!-- Page 29 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> placed a foot or more above the
+path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the
+path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the
+base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate
+spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not
+tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in
+both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space&mdash;even
+between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and
+not as much of an undertaking as it may seem.</p>
+
+<p>Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after
+moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it
+is astonishing how adaptive many of them are.</p>
+
+<p>Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of<!-- Page 30 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize
+what a mistake you have made.</p>
+
+<p>Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the
+beginning&mdash;of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will
+always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will
+be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less
+rearrangement.</p>
+
+<p>And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be
+done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the
+loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use
+a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth
+of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary
+garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots
+near the top of the soil<!-- Page 31 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> leaves the plants in no condition to stand the
+full force of the summer sun.</p>
+
+<p>Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp
+lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the
+fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant
+will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch
+out for weak spots after very heavy rains.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 32 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="PLANTS_FOR_A_ROCK_GARDEN" id="PLANTS_FOR_A_ROCK_GARDEN"></a>PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN</h2>
+
+<p>So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice
+is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden,
+advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very
+fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand;
+a little intelligent thought helps a lot.</p>
+
+<p>To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies
+to the picking out of the rocks&mdash;use the material which is close at
+hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines
+of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always
+an endless amount of beautiful and suita<!-- Page 33 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>ble plant life to be had
+without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your
+immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your
+grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for
+the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers
+not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the
+gardens&mdash;the hardy gardens&mdash;of others, where you can at once choose from
+the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too
+much care for your use.</p>
+
+<p>So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned,
+their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time,
+who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious,
+cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most<!-- Page 34 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> realize,
+and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the
+bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an
+individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden.
+Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too
+familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly,
+can you say in your heart that they are?</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;">
+<a name="pg34_photo" id="pg34_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_5.jpg" width="480" height="800" alt="Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden.
+The foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia) at the top, and one of the
+smaller ferns at the bottom" title="Foam Flower and One of the Smaller Ferns" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden.
+The foam flower (<i>Tiarella cordifolia</i>) at the top, and one of the
+smaller ferns at the bottom</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (<i>Polemonium reptans</i>)
+must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection
+of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why
+should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place
+in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for
+it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas,
+gen<!-- Page 35 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>tians from the Swiss Alps, and <i>Dryas Drummondi</i> from the Canadian
+Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of
+some of the common things near-by&mdash;even the "pale primrose" and the
+cowslip.</p>
+
+<p>From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most
+beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering
+plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It
+goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's
+in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be.</p>
+
+<p>Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new
+beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine
+(<i>Chelidonium majus</i>), strawberry (<i>Fragaria Virginica</i>), cranesbill
+(<i>Geranium maculatum</i>), toadflax (<i>Linaria</i><!-- Page 36 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> <i>vulgaris</i>), orange hawkweed
+(<i>Hieracium auranticum</i>), herb Robert (<i>Geranium Robertianum</i>),
+coltsfoot (<i>Tussilago Farfara</i>), Solomon's seal (<i>Polygonatum
+biflorum</i>), foam flower (<i>Tiarella cordifolia</i>), bloodroot (<i>Sanguinaria
+Canadensis</i>), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and
+random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine,
+and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not
+allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are
+many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are
+allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded
+altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden
+a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out
+altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain<!-- Page 37 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not
+care to see remain forever and a day.</p>
+
+<p>Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing,
+the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but
+in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of
+individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject
+the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (<i>Linaria alpina</i>),
+just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be
+placed on perennials&mdash;the plants that, barring accidents, last
+indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not
+use the bizarre&mdash;Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris.
+Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double
+daffodil looks horribly out of<!-- Page 38 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> place, while the double white rock cress
+(<i>Arabis albida</i>) will pass.</p>
+
+<p>The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the
+wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East.
+Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly
+suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the
+best of these for carpets of bloom are <i>Phlox subulata</i>, <i>Phlox
+am&#339;na</i>, <i>Aubrietia deltoidea</i>, maiden pink (<i>Dianthus deltoides</i>),
+blue bugle (<i>Ajuga Genevensis</i>), white bugle (<i>Ajuga reptans</i>), woolly
+chickweed (<i>Cerastium tomentosum</i>), creeping thyme (<i>Thymus serpyllum</i>),
+dwarf speedwell (<i>Veronica repens</i>), <i>Saponaria ocymoides</i>, alpine mint
+(<i>Calamintha alpina</i>), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum).
+All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other<!-- Page 39 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> plants that form a
+carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include
+white rock cress (<i>Arabis albida</i>), the permissible double buttercup
+(<i>Ranunculus acris fl. pl.</i>), the also permissible double German
+catchfly (<i>Lychnis viscaria</i>), another double flower, "fair maids of
+France" (<i>Ranunculus aconitifolius</i>), Carpathian bellflower (<i>Campanula
+Carpatica</i>), grass pink (<i>Dianthus plumarius</i>), <i>Iris pumila</i>, crested
+iris (<i>Iris cristata</i>), Christmas rose (<i>Helleborus niger</i>), <i>Phlox
+divaricata</i>, <i>Phlox ovata</i>, <i>Phlox repens</i>, foam flower (<i>Tiarella
+cordifolia</i>), <i>Veronica incana</i>, <i>Alyssum saxatile</i>, <i>Saxifraga
+cordifolia</i>, and various avens (geum).</p>
+
+<p>Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close&mdash;as
+it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (<i>Primula
+vulgaris</i>), cowslip<!-- Page 40 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> (<i>P. veris</i>), oxlip (<i>P. elatior</i>), bird's eye (<i>P.
+farinosa</i>), yellow auricula (<i>P. auricula</i>), <i>P. denticulata</i>, and <i>P.
+Cortusoides</i>. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for
+the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when
+they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types
+may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the
+species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe
+and the little lady tulip (<i>Tulipa Clusiana</i>). Crocuses are also best in
+type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest
+daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but
+better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser
+clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other
+valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, <i>Scilla</i><!-- Page 41 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> <i>Sibirica</i>, glory-of-the-snow
+(<i>Chionodoxa Lucili&aelig;</i>), guinea-hen flower (<i>Fritillaria Meleagris</i>),
+grape hyacinth (<i>Muscari botryoides</i>), <i>Triteleia uniflora</i>, <i>Allium
+Moly</i>, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (<i>Scilla nutans</i> and
+<i>campanulata</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single
+specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (<i>Aconitum autumnale</i>),
+<i>Yucca filamentosa</i>, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either
+herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the
+yellow flag (<i>Iris pseudacorus</i>), single columbines, <i>Anemone Japonica</i>,
+<i>Hemerocallis flava</i>, <i>Sedum spectabile</i>, <i>Dielytra spectabile</i>,
+<i>Dielytra formosa</i>, Jacob's ladder (<i><ins class="correction" title="Note: original reads 'Polemonicum'">Polemonium</ins> Richardsonii</i>),
+fraxinella, <i>Anthemis tinctoria</i>, single <i>Campanula persicifolia</i>,
+<i>Campanula rapunculoides</i>, <i>Campanula glomerata</i>, globe flower<!-- Page 42 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is
+proven hardy), and musk mallow (<i>Malva moschata</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Of the lilies, <i>Lilium Philadelphicum</i>, <i>L. elegans</i>, <i>L. speciosum</i>,
+and <i>L. longiflorum</i> are all desirable, and they thrive in partial
+shade, though in Japan <i>L. elegans</i> will be found standing out from the
+rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather
+than being placed in it, <i>L. Canadense</i>, <i>L. tigrinum</i>, and <i>L.
+superbum</i> are recommended.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<a name="pg42_photo" id="pg42_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_6.jpg" width="700" height="389" alt="A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is
+desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas" title="The Rock Garden Built Along a Main Curving Path" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is
+desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The pick of the low shrubs are the charming <i>Daphne cneorum</i>, which
+flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and
+<i>Azalea am&#339;na</i>. The latter, however, should be so placed that its
+trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and
+mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well,<!-- Page 43 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> and with one trailing
+juniper (<i>Juniperus procumbens</i>) will provide a great deal of the
+refreshing winter green.</p>
+
+<p>Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them.
+Good ones are <i>R. setigera</i>, <i>R. rubiginosa</i>, <i>R. Wichuraiana</i>, all
+rampant, and the low <i>R. blanda</i>. The roses would better be at or near
+the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble
+over small plants.</p>
+
+<p>The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their
+soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the
+ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are
+considered, but none is apt to perish with average care.</p>
+
+<p>Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time,
+money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them<!-- Page 44 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> take kindly to being
+transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the
+edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely
+beautiful <i>Gentiana acaulis</i> thrives in American rock gardens. But, on
+the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the
+summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at
+the cost of a great amount of professional care.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 45 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_WALL_GARDEN" id="THE_WALL_GARDEN"></a>THE WALL GARDEN</h2>
+
+<p>A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden
+is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need
+not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a
+curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it
+can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the
+gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum.</p>
+
+<p>The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough
+stones&mdash;that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it
+tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be
+tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be
+accomplished with<!-- Page 46 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot
+retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the
+roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be
+made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of
+stones and filling in solidly with soil.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/diag3.png" width="400" height="294" alt="Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing
+the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1&mdash;Arabis albida;
+2&mdash;Alyssum saxatile; 3&mdash;House leek (sempervivum); 4&mdash;Viola tricolor;
+5&mdash;Armeria maritima" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing
+the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1&mdash;<i>Arabis albida</i>;
+2&mdash;<i>Alyssum saxatile</i>; 3&mdash;House leek (sempervivum); 4&mdash;<i>Viola tricolor</i>;
+5&mdash;<i>Armeria maritima</i></span>
+<br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<a name="pg46_photo" id="pg46_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_7.jpg" width="700" height="462" alt="A wall garden planted in colonies&mdash;the better way. If not
+too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base" title="A Wall Garden Planted in Colonies" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A wall garden planted in colonies&mdash;the better way. If not
+too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly
+perpendicular, it is<!-- Page 47 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> better that each layer should recede a bit.
+Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so
+that the top will be level, or approximately so.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/diag4.png" width="400" height="398" alt="Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing
+ crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing
+ crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the
+work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press
+carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be
+mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice
+make a pill of the mixture.<!-- Page 48 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;">
+<img src="images/diag5.png" width="382" height="400" alt="Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil
+filling and here and there one on top of it" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil
+filling and here and there one on top of it</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not
+great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the
+house leeks, <i>Arabis albida</i>, red valerian (<i>Centranthus ruber</i>),
+aubrietia, <i>Alyssum saxatile</i>, snapdragon, wallflower (<i>Cheiranthus
+Cheiri</i>), Kenilworth ivy, <i>Viola tricolor</i>, <i>Dianthus plumarius</i>, and
+<i>Dianthus deltoides</i> are all very ser<!-- Page 49 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>viceable. Behind the wall, at the
+top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants
+can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a
+sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall
+or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder,
+can be created with the perennial pea (<i>Lathyrus latifolius</i>).</p>
+
+<p>If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil
+if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless;
+here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small
+stone should be removed.</p>
+
+<p>A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily
+constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility
+where the other is not.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><!-- Page 50 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="WATER_AND_BOG_GARDENS" id="WATER_AND_BOG_GARDENS"></a>WATER AND BOG GARDENS</h2>
+
+<p>Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or
+both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They
+solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water
+lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly
+contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may
+often be introduced at little expense.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;">
+<a name="pg50_photo" id="pg50_photo">
+<img src="images/photo_8.jpg" width="432" height="700" alt="A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque
+break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously" title="A Fountain in a Wall Garden" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque
+break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is
+necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by
+building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little
+below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones
+on that. A<!-- Page 51 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by
+imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/diag6.png" width="400" height="176" alt="To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a
+shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water
+line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder" title="" />
+<span class="caption">To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a
+shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water
+line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere
+notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some
+goldfish. They like mosquito larv&aelig;.</p>
+
+<p>Water lilies and sagittaria&mdash;one plant will do if the pool is small&mdash;in
+the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow
+flag, globe flower, and <i>Lythrum roseum</i> are good selections.<!-- Page 52 --><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the
+perennial kind (<i>Myosotis palustris semperflorens</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden
+adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and
+moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants
+flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf
+mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel,
+must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement
+or puddled clay.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<div class="tr">Transcriber's Note:<br /> A spelling error has been corrected: "<i>Polemonicum</i>"
+to "<i>Polemonium</i>" (<a href="#Page_41">Page 41</a>)<br /></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
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+</body>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making A Rock Garden
+
+Author: Henry Sherman Adams
+
+Release Date: February 2, 2008 [EBook #24496]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROCK GARDEN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by S. Drawehn and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+
+
+  THE
+  HOUSE & GARDEN
+  MAKING
+  BOOKS
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Rock Garden_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis
+Court_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a
+Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Garden to Bloom This
+Year_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making
+the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb
+Garden_; with others to be announced later.
+
+
+[Illustration: A nearly buried boulder is easily converted into a
+beautiful little rock garden. Fill in depressions with soil and plant
+there and around the edges of the boulder _Phlox subulata_, sedum,
+arabis, etc.]
+
+
+
+
+  MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+  By H. S. ADAMS
+
+  [Decoration]
+
+  NEW YORK
+  McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+  1912
+
+  COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
+  MCBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+  Published May, 1912
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+  THE ROCK GARDEN                                      1
+
+  THE CHOICE OF A SITE                                 6
+
+  THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION                            13
+
+  PLANTING THE GARDEN                                 24
+
+  PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN                            32
+
+  THE WALL GARDEN                                     45
+
+  WATER AND BOG GARDENS                               50
+
+
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  AN OUTCROPPING BOULDER CONVERTED         _Frontispiece_
+    INTO A ROCK GARDEN
+                                                  FACING
+                                                    PAGE
+
+  A FLIGHT OF STEPS THROUGH ROCK WORK                  8
+
+  AN EXAMPLE OF GOOD ROCK GARDENING                   16
+
+  A SMALL BIT OF ROCK WORK WHERE TWO PATHS DIVERGE    26
+
+  FOAM FLOWER AND ONE OF THE SMALLER FERNS            34
+
+  THE ROCK GARDEN BUILT ALONG A MAIN CURVING PATH     42
+
+  A WALL GARDEN PLANTED IN COLONIES                   46
+
+  A FOUNTAIN IN A WALL GARDEN                         50
+
+
+
+
+     MAKING A
+  ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+
+
+Making a Rock Garden
+
+THE ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+In Europe, particularly in England, the rock garden is an established
+institution with a distinct following. The English works on the subject
+alone form a considerable bibliography.
+
+On this side of the Atlantic, the rock garden is so little understood
+that it is an almost unconsidered factor in the beautifying of the home
+grounds. There are a few notable rock gardens in this country, all on
+large estates, and in more instances some excellent work has been done
+on a smaller and less complicated scale either by actual creation or by
+taking advantage of natural opportunities. But for the most part
+America has confined its rock garden vision principally to the so-called
+"rockery."
+
+Now a rockery, with all the good intentions lying behind it, is not a
+rock garden. It is no more a rock garden than a line of cedars planted
+in an exact circle would be a wood. A rockery is generally a lot of
+stones stuck in a pile of soil or, worse yet, a circular array of stones
+filled in with soil.
+
+A rock garden, above all else, is not artificial; at least, so far as
+appearance goes. It is a garden with rocks. The rocks may be few or
+many, they may have been disposed by nature or the hand of man; but
+always the effect is naturalistic, if not actually natural. The rock
+garden's one and only creed is nature.
+
+Rock gardens are of so many legitimate--in other words, natural--types,
+that there is not the slightest excuse for a rockery. Even that
+commonest of excuses, finding a use for stray stones, falls to the
+ground. Any close observer of nature is familiar with these types. The
+natural rock gardens range from the patches of alpine plants above the
+timber line in high mountains down the lower slopes and through defiles
+to fields on or near sea level. Not infrequently they come down to the
+very sea, while sweet waters commonly define and, what is better, are
+now and then incorporated in, them--here a pool, there a brook. The bog,
+too, the heath and the desert, they take unto themselves, though perhaps
+only the nearer edge. And does man, by ponderous effort, raise up
+massive masonry in orderly fashion; one day disorder comes and nature
+makes things look natural by another kind of rock garden. Rome's
+Coliseum and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle are only two of the
+unnumbered examples of this.
+
+Here, in a nutshell, are not only the natural variations of the rock
+garden, but the inspiration. No rock garden worthy of the name has ever
+been created by man that did not depend upon a study of those that
+nature has given the world in prodigal abundance. There were the why and
+the how of it all, and man simply saw and made use of his observations.
+
+The advantages of a rock garden are, primarily, an element of
+picturesqueness that nothing else can provide, and the possession of a
+place in which can be grown some of the loveliest flowers on earth that,
+if they flourish at all, will never do as well in the ordinary garden as
+in conditions more or less approximating their natural habitat. Also it may
+be made a pleasance of extraordinary attractiveness. Occasionally--and
+here is one of the most important things to be learned about the rock
+garden--it is the veritable key to the garden situation; there are small
+places where no other kind is worth while, if indeed it is possible.
+
+
+
+
+THE CHOICE OF A SITE
+
+
+The best site for a rock garden is where it ought to be. That is a sad
+truth, for it eliminates some homes from the game; but useless waste of
+time will be saved if this is recognized at the outset. First cast your
+eye about and see if you have a spot where a rock garden would look as
+if it belonged there; that is the supreme test. If one does not seem to
+belong there, give up the idea philosophically and take it out in
+enjoying the rock gardens of other people.
+
+As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something
+savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture.
+Exceptions are when the house is on a rocky site that makes such
+planting desirable, if not imperative, and a slope from the rear or one
+side of a house that seems decided enough to permit of a sharp break in
+the general landscape treatment. Save in these circumstances, it is
+better that it should not be in sight of the house. This is not so hard
+as it sounds; even on a small place, the spot is easily concealed by a
+planting of shrubbery.
+
+Nor should the rock garden, any more than the rockery, be in the lawn
+unless it is depressed and therefore out of sight, or mainly so, from
+the level. The depression may be a natural or an artificial one, it may
+be a brook with high banks or it may be a sunken pathway. The edge of a
+lawn is better, a corner of it is better yet, and preferable to either
+is a bank sloping down from it. The bank on either side of steps
+leading from one lawn level to another is also a possibility to be
+considered.
+
+Trees need not be altogether avoided; sometimes they are essential to
+the pictorial effect. It is not well, however, to place a rock garden
+near very large trees. The drip is bad, especially for alpines, and the
+greedy roots not only rob the plants of nourishment but are very apt to
+dislocate the stones.
+
+Somewhere just outside the real garden is the best place; then it is
+only a step from one little world into another that is altogether
+different. If the rock garden leads to a bit of wood, either directly or
+through a wild garden, there will be all the more to rejoice over. The
+more irregularity the site has, or suggests, the better; a rock garden
+not only should have no straight lines, but it is not well that all of
+it should be comprehended in a single view--no matter whether the area
+be large or small.
+
+[Illustration: Wherever possible make the entrance to the rock garden a
+rough flight of steps. Excavate if necessary. Plant the step crevices as
+well as those of the side walls]
+
+What constitutes a good site is well illustrated by one of the existing
+American rock gardens. The place is large, and in the rear of the house
+the grounds are level for a considerable distance and then drop with a
+fairly steep bank to a driveway, below which another terrace leads to a
+meadow. Instead of being continuous, however, the bank above the
+driveway is broken by a little glen, seemingly leading nowhere, but
+actually an entrance to both the rear lawn and the formal garden. In
+this glen is the rock garden, or rather the main part of it. Though
+bounded on the north--it runs east and west--by the formal garden and on
+the south by the lawn, the rock garden can be seen from neither of
+these, nor from the house. It is conveniently near all three, yet
+distinctly apart from all. A thin planting of evergreens screens it on
+the south and east sides, and there is a low hedge between it and the
+formal garden. The rock garden overflows the glen and runs along the
+bank on either side, the shady section being devoted to an extensive
+collection of hardy ferns. Across the driveway there is more rock garden
+and then a short stretch of dry wall garden. Such a site as this does
+not have to be found all made. Given any grounds with a bank, and a
+little imagination, and a glen is a mere matter of shoveling soil. Call
+it a gorge, if you prefer. Either, in miniature, is a favored rock
+garden form; so are hill and crest.
+
+Thus far the assumption has been that the rocks have to be gathered up
+from various parts of the place or brought in from the outside. But
+many grounds, especially those of country places, have the rocks; often
+more than are wanted. Although sometimes this is the best of luck, now
+and then the trouble of blasting and rearranging is about as great as if
+all the stone had to be found. It does, nevertheless, make easier the
+choice of a site; where rocks are naturally, there they ought to be.
+Occasionally the rocks are so disposed that there is no choice; the site
+settles itself and it is up to you to make the most of it.
+
+A single boulder, a few scattered rocks, or a rocky bank can be
+converted into a simple rock garden without moving a stone. A little
+judicious planting and the transformation is complete.
+
+A rock garden with water is a rock garden glorified. Wherever possible,
+without injury to the main scheme, the garden should be brought to the
+water. Failing that, bring the water to it, if this is practicable;
+which can be determined when the site is picked out.
+
+
+
+
+THE WORK OF CONSTRUCTION
+
+
+Spring is the best time to make a rock garden. When the important matter
+of the proper site has been put in the past, a definite scheme must be
+planned. Upon the definiteness of this scheme, much of the success of
+the rock garden will depend. Here desire will have to be subservient to
+the situation. It is not so much what you want as what is best in the
+circumstances.
+
+Do not attempt slavishly to copy the rock garden of some one else. All
+the money in the world would not create an exact duplicate for you,
+since nature has made no two rocks precisely alike. Study them, of
+course; get all the ideas you can. But study first, and most,
+nature--more particularly its ways in your own neighborhood. Anywhere
+there is abundant opportunity. Take a leaf or two from the book of the
+Japanese gardeners. They are past-masters of the art of making rock
+gardens, with a bit of water thrown in. They make use of comparatively
+few blossoming plants, but their example is invaluable in the
+disposition of rocks with simple effectiveness, in the simulation of
+height and distance, in the proper employment of turf, and in the
+planting of such small trees and shrubs as are suitable for a rock
+garden scheme.
+
+Measure carefully the space at command, and then lay out the plan on
+cross-ruled paper. Call each of the little squares a square foot and the
+labor will be made easy. Next, figure out a good entrance, and, if
+possible, an equally good exit--the one invisible from the other. Then
+outline the main path, which should be as devious as the situation
+allows, and, if byways cannot be added, provide for bays, or more
+pronounced recesses. Remember that you are not merely to simulate
+nature; you are, by a process of compressing much in little, to
+epitomize it.
+
+Then comes the selection of the rocks. Usually the rock close at hand,
+perhaps on the very grounds, will answer every purpose. If you are not
+fortunate enough to own any, very likely there is more than one townsman
+who will be glad to give you all the boulders and smaller rocks that you
+want, if you will only remove them from spots where they are not
+desired. The cost of removal, even in the case of boulders of fair size,
+is not great.
+
+Barring quartz rock, which does not look well, almost any kind of
+natural stone may be made use of to the best advantage. Artificial
+stone should be shunned like the plague. Limestone and sandstone are
+good materials; granite is better. Granite, however, does not stratify,
+and if stratified effects are desired, another stone must be selected. A
+good plan is to use more than one kind, but to keep them properly apart.
+Weather-beaten granite is excellent material, and, in general, it is
+well to have the rock look anything but newly quarried. Pick out some
+rocks with a growth of lichen on them, and be sure that this is not
+disturbed by the moving.
+
+[Illustration: Good rock garden planting. Each of the principal species
+has a soil pocket to itself. Note the effective background and irregular
+crevices]
+
+Boulders may run up to several tons in weight. Where none is readily
+obtainable, one can be simulated by ingeniously combining a few small
+ones and concealing the joints by the planting of such things as
+stonecrops in earth--which, save in rare cases of sheer necessity, is
+always used in the construction of a rock garden in place of mortar.
+
+If the site is level, the next step is to change all that--first on
+paper. Unless the lay of the land is all right at the outset, the
+configuration of the rock garden must not depend wholly upon the
+upbuilding; there must be some excavations, but no depressions deep
+enough to catch and hold water just where you will want to walk.
+
+Aside from the path levels, building begins with the rocks, not with the
+soil. This is a highly important point. Place the boulders first; they
+are the big effects. Aside from that, the heaviest work will be out of
+the way. Then start in with the outlining base rocks. These should be
+placed with the largest surface to the ground and should vary in size.
+It is not essential that the lowest rocks should be slightly buried in
+the ground, but that course is preferable.
+
+When the paths and outer margins have been thus defined, scatter more
+rocks over the intervening surface, placing them fairly thick but not
+close together. Next, fill in with soil, packing it firmly and ramming
+it hard into every crevice. If it fits in with the day's work, it is not
+a bad plan to water the rock work well in order to pack the soil, and
+when resuming the labor on the morrow, to add more soil, well pressed
+down, before proceeding with the second layer of rock.
+
+This second layer should have the rocks placed with the front edge
+slightly back from that of the lower row in order to form a slope,
+though an occasional overhang may be fashioned if required for a certain
+plant known to abhor a drip from above. The construction then proceeds
+as before, until the desired height is reached. The height is entirely
+arbitrary, but some points should be at least as high as the line of
+vision, as one of the great advantages of a rock garden is the pleasure
+of enjoying some of the typical rock plants without stooping. The rocks
+used as fillers should overlap here and there to give strength, but care
+must be taken to contrive plenty of long soil runs. Eighteen inches
+should be the very least. A plant like the alpine androsace is a tiny
+rosette, seemingly requiring no more than an inch or two of soil, but
+its roots are likely to be found following an earth-filled crevice in
+the rocks to the depth of a yard or so. It is because of this deep
+penetration of roots that the soil should be packed so very firm; the
+roots must be in no danger of loose soil or of striking a hidden
+hollow.
+
+[Illustration: Where a rock would bear too heavily on the one below it,
+even with soil between, the pressure may be relieved by the use of small
+stones. The soil run need not be straight, but it must be continuous, so
+that the roots of the plant may find their way from A through to B]
+
+At no point between two stones should the layer of soil be less than two
+or three inches thick after being packed hard. If an upper stone is
+likely to bear down too heavily and crush the plant roots, this may be
+avoided by placing small stones here and there in the layer of soil. The
+roots will work between these stones, but there must be a continuous,
+though not necessarily straight, soil run from the front of the rock
+work to the solid filling of earth. The run should slope downward
+slightly.
+
+Rocks calculated to simulate a natural stratification ought to be laid
+on an incline for proper drainage. Such pieces of rock may also be
+employed sparsely in wedging, and in the making of the so-called
+"pockets."
+
+These pockets are of prime importance in the construction of a rock
+garden. They hold the only considerable spaces of soil and are the chief
+means of colonizing plants, thus providing for pronounced color effects.
+They should break the slopes and be irregular in size, shape, and
+distribution. The large ones may be easily subdivided by small stones
+when the planting is done if a further separation of species is
+desirable. The soil must slope a little from the top, so that there will
+be no standing water.
+
+[Illustration: Cross-section of rock garden construction, showing
+shallow (A) and deep (B) soil pockets; tilting and wedging of rocks (C);
+bridging (D), and perpendicular crevice soil run (E). Two to three
+inches of soil between all joints. The lowest rocks are partly buried]
+
+The drainage of a rock garden is of vital importance. There must be
+plenty of moisture stowed away behind the rocks against the heat of
+summer, but all excess must be carried away. The garden should drain
+naturally, as the hills do. If any doubt exists, make a drainage bed of
+eight inches of clinkers before starting to lay the stones.
+
+The soil should be a good loam with a little peat, and stones varying in
+size from a mustard seed to an almond. A little manure may be used, but
+it must be old.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTING THE GARDEN
+
+
+There are two ways of planting a rock garden. One is to do all the
+crevice planting along with the building, and the other, of course, is
+to defer everything until the rocks are in place and the soil thoroughly
+settled.
+
+The former plan is a singularly appealing, as well as practical, one.
+There is something fascinating in finishing completely a part of the
+work as one goes along. The practical advantage lies chiefly in the fact
+that by this method good-sized plants may be firmly established in
+crevices at the very outset. The soil in that case should be put part
+way in the crevice and packed down. Then some loose soil sprinkled on
+top, and the plant, with the earth well shaken from the roots, unless
+it has a tap root, laid down horizontally with the crown just outside
+the edge of the soil. Next spread the roots to follow the soil run; fill
+up the crevice with more soil, packed well, and follow with more plants
+of the same kind. Use small stones to wedge plants where it appears
+necessary. Plants that hang down should be placed in the higher
+crevices; this must be all thought out beforehand.
+
+As a matter of fact, the planting plan cannot be too thoroughly thought
+out in advance. At point after point it dovetails with the structural
+plan, which must accord with the requirements of what may be called the
+more difficult rock plants--the alpines, some of the ferns, and those
+plants that fit in well with rock work but demand more than the ordinary
+garden moisture. The best way is to decide what plants are most
+desirable in the circumstances, omitting, as a rule, the difficult or
+"finicky" ones; there will be plenty of time to experiment with those
+when you have more experience. Make a face plan of the several sections
+of the rock work and mark on it where the plants are to go. Use numbers,
+each corresponding to a species.
+
+[Illustration: Where only a small effect is desired, a tongue of rock
+work like this is an easy solution of the problem. Note the avoidance of
+straight lines]
+
+The general idea is that all the soil shall be concealed, not
+necessarily at the moment of planting, but at the end of one or two
+seasons' growth. Unless you are a collector, variety is of little
+importance. The main thing is that there shall be beauty as a whole, a
+few marked seasonal effects of color with massed bloom and some green
+the year round; the garden must never be bare at any time, as nature
+will show you. Plants clustered here and single there is a good
+planting rule. Colonies, always of marked irregularity, ought to merge
+into one another, but they should not so overrun the rock work that no
+stones are in sight. Not infrequently some of the best effects are
+obtained where more rock than flowers is seen. A boulder, for example,
+calls for the contrast of plants, perhaps only a few low-growing ones in
+a natural pocket, rather than a semi-eclipse. As a rule, plant one
+hundred of half a dozen or so suitable, and easy, species in preference
+to fifty or more kinds.
+
+Study at the same time the form of the plants that are to be used; some
+quickly resolve themselves into a carpet, some never get beyond mere
+tufts, some always grow straight up, some prefer to hang down, and some
+have foliage that is evergreen or nearly so. To be more specific, one
+plant of _Saponaria ocymoides_ will spread out over four square feet of
+soil, and thus fill completely a moderate-sized pocket, whereas to
+conceal the same amount of ground three dozen auriculas might have to be
+used. The same is true of the white rock cress (_Arabis albida_). So,
+too, with a crevice. A single plant of one of the trailing stonecrops
+would fill it, perhaps, when a number of rosettes of the smaller kinds
+of house leek would be called for.
+
+Tall plants, like the foxglove, may sometimes be used, in a small group,
+at the end of a bay on the level of the path; but they are best placed
+behind the rock work, as a background, or as dominating features of the
+entrance or exit of the garden. At the entrance or exit such bold plants
+make a good bridge between the rock garden and the outer grounds.
+Spreading and trailing plants should be placed a foot or more above the
+path level and most plants with tufts or rosettes of foliage. If the
+path is broad enough some of the wide-spreading plants may go at the
+base of the rocks, but the rule there is to use those of moderate
+spread, with a few tufted plants and some that grow upright, but are not
+tall, to lend variety. When the path is of flat stones, irregular in
+both size and placing, this growth should fill all the soil space--even
+between the stones. Such a path will be found more than worth while, and
+not as much of an undertaking as it may seem.
+
+Obvious considerations are that plants with a decided hankering after
+moisture or shade should be favored in the matter of location, though it
+is astonishing how adaptive many of them are.
+
+Do not plant the weak next to the strong. Unless you are a gardener of
+eternal vigilance, the weak will have the worst of it before you realize
+what a mistake you have made.
+
+Finally, do not forget that planting is not the end; it is only the
+beginning--of planting. So long as the rock garden exists there will
+always be planting. Normal mortality will necessitate some, there will
+be thinning out, and time will suggest additions and more or less
+rearrangement.
+
+And with the planting goes on the continual care, much of which can be
+done in the course of the daily walk in the garden, and therefore the
+loss of time will not be felt. Water in case of a real drought, but use
+a sprinkler, and do not stop until the ground has been soaked to a depth
+of a few inches. Mere surface watering is bad enough in the ordinary
+garden; in a rock garden it is a fatal error, as the growth of roots
+near the top of the soil leaves the plants in no condition to stand the
+full force of the summer sun.
+
+Go over the garden thoroughly once a year and all the time keep a sharp
+lookout for weeds. If the soil is heavy, top-dress with grit in the
+fall. Grit is good for rock plants. Stone chips placed around a plant
+will prevent too much dampness lodging about the collar in winter. Watch
+out for weak spots after very heavy rains.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTS FOR A ROCK GARDEN
+
+
+So many plants are suitable for a rock garden that the range of choice
+is bewildering. In this, as in the laying out of the garden,
+advisability takes precedence over pure personal desire, though, very
+fortunately, it is often not difficult to make the two go hand in hand;
+a little intelligent thought helps a lot.
+
+To the beginner, no better advice can be given than that which applies
+to the picking out of the rocks--use the material which is close at
+hand. This is not, by any means, a mere suggestion to follow the lines
+of least resistance. It is far more. In the first place, there is always
+an endless amount of beautiful and suitable plant life to be had
+without going far afield. Then again, natural harmonious effects in your
+immediate neighborhood are pretty sure to be appropriate to your
+grounds. Finally, you can see for yourself how things grow, and as for
+the hardiness of plants, you have it already tested for you. This refers
+not alone to the natural conditions; there is a second wide field in the
+gardens--the hardy gardens--of others, where you can at once choose from
+the many and learn whether certain plants are too tender or require too
+much care for your use.
+
+So far as plants native to the immediate neighborhood are concerned,
+their value to the rock garden of the average person with limited time,
+who is not obsessed with the idea of growing the rare and curious,
+cannot be overestimated. And they are so many; more than most realize,
+and often of an individual beauty not always appreciated in the
+bewildering profusion of the wild but plainly apparent when an
+individual, or a little group, is open to close study in a rock garden.
+Do not make the rather common mistake of thinking that they are too
+familiar to be interesting; they are never likely to be. And, honestly,
+can you say in your heart that they are?
+
+For a Connecticut rock garden the Greek valerian (_Polemonium reptans_)
+must be purchased, unless a neighbor can spare some from his collection
+of old-fashioned flowers; there it belongs in that category. But why
+should you of Minnesota or Missouri deny so beautiful a flower a place
+in your rock garden, simply because you have only to go to the woods for
+it? The English enthusiast brings home primroses from the Himalayas,
+gentians from the Swiss Alps, and _Dryas Drummondi_ from the Canadian
+Rockies for his rock garden, but he does not fail to take advantage of
+some of the common things near-by--even the "pale primrose" and the
+cowslip.
+
+[Illustration: Native plants are excellent material for the rock garden.
+The foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_) at the top, and one of the
+smaller ferns at the bottom]
+
+From ferns alone, or from only plants of shrubby growth, a most
+beautiful native rock garden may be made. And adding small flowering
+plants, or excluding all else, there are limitless opportunities. It
+goes without saying that A's rock garden in Maine will not be like B's
+in Louisiana; but there is no law compelling it to be.
+
+Among the common wild flowers of the East that take on unexpected new
+beauty when transferred to the rock garden are the celandine
+(_Chelidonium majus_), strawberry (_Fragaria Virginica_), cranesbill
+(_Geranium maculatum_), toadflax (_Linaria vulgaris_), orange hawkweed
+(_Hieracium auranticum_), herb Robert (_Geranium Robertianum_),
+coltsfoot (_Tussilago Farfara_), Solomon's seal (_Polygonatum
+biflorum_), foam flower (_Tiarella cordifolia_), bloodroot (_Sanguinaria
+Canadensis_), and some of the violets. These are but a few names, and
+random ones at that. Some of them, the coltsfoot, cranesbill, celandine,
+and toadflax, spread too rapidly, but by careful watching and not
+allowing the seed to ripen, they may be kept within bounds. There are
+many such plants that will take all the room in sight if they are
+allowed to, and they must be watched closely, or else discarded
+altogether. Some of them answer a good purpose by giving the rock garden
+a quick start, after which they may easily be reduced or thrown out
+altogether. There need be no compunction about discarding. Certain
+plants, like certain friends, you enjoy having for a visit, but do not
+care to see remain forever and a day.
+
+Annuals as a class are not desirable for the rock garden; for one thing,
+the care of renewal is too great. Biennials are almost as much care, but
+in each case there will always be exceptions that are a matter of
+individual preference. Few, for example, would have the heart to reject
+the dainty little purple toadflax of Switzerland (_Linaria alpina_),
+just because it is a biennial. The main dependence, however, must be
+placed on perennials--the plants that, barring accidents, last
+indefinitely. These should be mostly species; if horticultural, do not
+use the bizarre--Darwin tulips, for example, or the Madame Chereau iris.
+Nor, with rare exceptions, should double flowers be used. A double
+daffodil looks horribly out of place, while the double white rock cress
+(_Arabis albida_) will pass.
+
+The easy rock garden plants, where the material is not taken from the
+wild, are to be found in most of the large hardy gardens of the East.
+Some of them are natives of Europe or Asia, and more than is commonly
+suspected are at home in other parts of the United States. Among the
+best of these for carpets of bloom are _Phlox subulata_, _Phlox
+am[oe]na_, _Aubrietia deltoidea_, maiden pink (_Dianthus deltoides_),
+blue bugle (_Ajuga Genevensis_), white bugle (_Ajuga reptans_), woolly
+chickweed (_Cerastium tomentosum_), creeping thyme (_Thymus serpyllum_),
+dwarf speedwell (_Veronica repens_), _Saponaria ocymoides_, alpine mint
+(_Calamintha alpina_), and pink, white, and yellow stonecrops (sedum).
+All of them fairly hug the ground. There are other plants that form a
+carpet of foliage, but the flower stalks rise higher. These include
+white rock cress (_Arabis albida_), the permissible double buttercup
+(_Ranunculus acris fl. pl._), the also permissible double German
+catchfly (_Lychnis viscaria_), another double flower, "fair maids of
+France" (_Ranunculus aconitifolius_), Carpathian bellflower (_Campanula
+Carpatica_), grass pink (_Dianthus plumarius_), _Iris pumila_, crested
+iris (_Iris cristata_), Christmas rose (_Helleborus niger_), _Phlox
+divaricata_, _Phlox ovata_, _Phlox repens_, foam flower (_Tiarella
+cordifolia_), _Veronica incana_, _Alyssum saxatile_, _Saxifraga
+cordifolia_, and various avens (geum).
+
+Several of the primulas give a like effect if the planting is close--as
+it should be in a pocket. The best are the English primrose (_Primula
+vulgaris_), cowslip (_P. veris_), oxlip (_P. elatior_), bird's eye (_P.
+farinosa_), yellow auricula (_P. auricula_), _P. denticulata_, and _P.
+Cortusoides_. Similarly, spring bulbs may be employed; plant them, for
+the most part, under a ground cover so that the soil will not show when
+they die down. Of the tulips, single ones of the early and cottage types
+may be used, if in a solid color, but most to be preferred are the
+species, such as the sweet yellow (Florentine) tulip of Southern Europe
+and the little lady tulip (_Tulipa Clusiana_). Crocuses are also best in
+type forms, and the small, single, yellow trumpet kinds are the finest
+daffodil material. Single white or blue hyacinths may be used, but
+better than the stiff spikes of bloom of new bulbs will be the looser
+clusters of bulbs that have begun to "run out" in the border. Other
+valuable bulbs are the snowdrop, _Scilla Sibirica_, glory-of-the-snow
+(_Chionodoxa Luciliae_), guinea-hen flower (_Fritillaria Meleagris_),
+grape hyacinth (_Muscari botryoides_), _Triteleia uniflora_, _Allium
+Moly_, and the wood and Spanish hyacinths (_Scilla nutans_ and
+_campanulata_).
+
+Taller plants that may be worked in, oftentimes best with only a single
+specimen or small clump, are autumn aconite (_Aconitum autumnale_),
+_Yucca filamentosa_, leopard's bane (doronicum), single peonies (either
+herbaceous or tree), German, Japanese, and Siberian iris, as well as the
+yellow flag (_Iris pseudacorus_), single columbines, _Anemone Japonica_,
+_Hemerocallis flava_, _Sedum spectabile_, _Dielytra spectabile_,
+_Dielytra formosa_, Jacob's ladder (_Polemonium Richardsonii_),
+fraxinella, _Anthemis tinctoria_, single _Campanula persicifolia_,
+_Campanula rapunculoides_, _Campanula glomerata_, globe flower
+(trollius), snapdragon (antirrhinum), platycodon, lavender (where it is
+proven hardy), and musk mallow (_Malva moschata_).
+
+Of the lilies, _Lilium Philadelphicum_, _L. elegans_, _L. speciosum_,
+and _L. longiflorum_ are all desirable, and they thrive in partial
+shade, though in Japan _L. elegans_ will be found standing out from the
+rocks in full sunshine. For peering over into the rock garden, rather
+than being placed in it, _L. Canadense_, _L. tigrinum_, and _L.
+superbum_ are recommended.
+
+[Illustration: A rock garden merging into woodland. A curved path is
+desirable, as it affords a greater number of vistas]
+
+The pick of the low shrubs are the charming _Daphne cneorum_, which
+flourishes better for being lifted above the ordinary garden level, and
+_Azalea am[oe]na_. The latter, however, should be so placed that its
+trying solferino does not make a bad color clash. Rhododendrons and
+mountain laurel fringe a rock garden well, and with one trailing
+juniper (_Juniperus procumbens_) will provide a great deal of the
+refreshing winter green.
+
+Single roses, the species, fit in well where there is room for them.
+Good ones are _R. setigera_, _R. rubiginosa_, _R. Wichuraiana_, all
+rampant, and the low _R. blanda_. The roses would better be at or near
+the entrance or exit, or far enough above the rock work not to ramble
+over small plants.
+
+The plants in this list cover all seasons and vary somewhat in their
+soil and moisture requirements. But the variation is nothing beyond the
+ordinary garden knowledge. Most will do better if their preferences are
+considered, but none is apt to perish with average care.
+
+Alpines, as a class, would better be left to the amateur with the time,
+money, and disposition to specialize. Most of them take kindly to being
+transferred from a mile or more up in the air to sea level; the
+edelweiss, for one, grows here readily from seed, and the exquisitely
+beautiful _Gentiana acaulis_ thrives in American rock gardens. But, on
+the whole, alpines do not do as well here as in England, where the
+summer climate is not so hard on them. When they flourish here, it is at
+the cost of a great amount of professional care.
+
+
+
+
+THE WALL GARDEN
+
+
+A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden
+is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need
+not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a
+curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it
+can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the
+gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum.
+
+The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough
+stones--that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it
+tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be
+tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be
+accomplished with small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot
+retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the
+roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be
+made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of
+stones and filling in solidly with soil.
+
+[Illustration: Planting plan of dry wall, the dark portions representing
+the chief earth-filled crevices. The plants are: 1--_Arabis albida_;
+2--_Alyssum saxatile_; 3--House leek (sempervivum); 4--_Viola tricolor_;
+5--_Armeria maritima_]
+
+[Illustration: A wall garden planted in colonies--the better way. If not
+too vigorous of growth, vines may be planted as shown here at the base]
+
+Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly
+perpendicular, it is better that each layer should recede a bit.
+Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so
+that the top will be level, or approximately so.
+
+[Illustration: Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing
+crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks]
+
+In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the
+work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press
+carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be
+mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice
+make a pill of the mixture.
+
+[Illustration: Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil
+filling and here and there one on top of it]
+
+The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not
+great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the
+house leeks, _Arabis albida_, red valerian (_Centranthus ruber_),
+aubrietia, _Alyssum saxatile_, snapdragon, wallflower (_Cheiranthus
+Cheiri_), Kenilworth ivy, _Viola tricolor_, _Dianthus plumarius_, and
+_Dianthus deltoides_ are all very serviceable. Behind the wall, at the
+top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants
+can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a
+sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall
+or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder,
+can be created with the perennial pea (_Lathyrus latifolius_).
+
+If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil
+if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless;
+here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small
+stone should be removed.
+
+A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily
+constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility
+where the other is not.
+
+
+
+
+WATER AND BOG GARDENS
+
+
+Neither the water nor the bog garden is dependent on rocks. Either or
+both, however, may just as well be an adjunct of the rock garden. They
+solve the wet spot problem admirably, permit the culture of native water
+lilies, orchids, and numerous other beautiful plants, and certainly
+contribute their share of picturesqueness. If water is lacking, it may
+often be introduced at little expense.
+
+[Illustration: A little grotto with trickling water makes a picturesque
+break in a wall garden. If shady, plant ferns generously]
+
+In most cases it will be found that some cement construction is
+necessary, but not a bit of it should show. This is easily managed by
+building a cement shoulder on the sides of the pool or stream a little
+below what will be the level of the water, and then setting rough stones
+on that. A cement bottom for shallow water may be disguised by
+imbedding pebbles and small stones in the cement before it sets.
+
+[Illustration: To conceal the cemented bank of a pool or stream, make a
+shoulder eight inches or so wide and about six inches below the water
+line. Then place small rocks on the shoulder]
+
+Dispose the rocks very irregularly, but they may be so few as to be mere
+notes. Avoid stagnant water, and if mosquitoes are feared introduce some
+goldfish. They like mosquito larvae.
+
+Water lilies and sagittaria--one plant will do if the pool is small--in
+the water and near it, but not in standing water, Japanese iris, yellow
+flag, globe flower, and _Lythrum roseum_ are good selections.
+Forget-me-not is one of the finest plants for the banks. Use the
+perennial kind (_Myosotis palustris semperflorens_).
+
+The bog garden simply reproduces bog conditions. As a rock garden
+adjunct it may be a small spot with the perpetually moist and
+moss-covered soil in which the native cypripediums and pitcher plants
+flourish. Eighteen or twenty inches of suitable soil, a mixture of leaf
+mold, peat, and loam, in which has been stirred some sand and gravel,
+must be provided. If an artificial bog, the bottom may be made of cement
+or puddled clay.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Two oe ligatures in the original book have been
+rendered as [oe]. A spelling error in the original has also been
+corrected: "Polemonicum" to "Polemonium" (Page 41: "... Jacob's ladder
+(_Polemonium Richardsonii_) ...") Italics are rendered as _underscores_.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Making A Rock Garden, by Henry Sherman Adams
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